Beyond Romeo and Juliet: What to See in Verona, Italy

Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Heading to northern Italy? Consider spending time in lovely Verona, which has plenty to see beyond its connection to Romeo and Juliet

The city’s central location makes it an excellent home base for touring the region, and you’ll find lots of opportunities for artsy sightseeing.

Guest poster Zoe Disigny, author of The Art of Traveling Strangers, shares her experience exploring Verona’s many artsy attractions during a week’s stay.

A travel blog graphic featuring two images of Verona: the top image showcases the Basilica of San Zeno with its Romanesque facade and bell tower, while the bottom image depicts a statue in Piazza dei Signori surrounded by colorful historic buildings. The title reads, "Beyond Romeo and Juliet: Spending a Wonderful Week in Verona," with the website name "artsytraveler.com" displayed at the bottom.

Introduction

When most people think of “fair” Verona, they typically think of Shakespeare’s play Romeo and Juliet.

Two households, both alike in dignity
(In fair Verona, where we lay our scene),
From ancient grudge break to new mutiny,
Where civil blood makes civil hands unclean. (Prologue.1–4)

But when I recently stayed in Verona for a week on a house exchange, it wasn’t the romantic story of Romeo and Juliet that I had in mind.

It was the city’s real history. For me, that’s the true romance of Verona.

History of Verona

Thanks to its location along the Adige River in the Veneto region of northern Italy, Verona has been inhabited since prehistoric times. It became a Roman town in the third century B.C. and was one of the most important Italian cities during the Roman era.

Because of its strategic location on the river, it was used as a base for overseeing the northern territories and was at the intersection of many important roads.

Today, everywhere you look, the city teems with Roman art and architecture.

But that’s not all. Medieval Verona is equally represented, with its many artifacts woven seamlessly throughout the city. Add the city’s Renaissance and Baroque masterpieces, and this art-historical wonderland is complete.

No wonder Verona is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Arrival in Verona

My first experience with the city of Verona was at night. We arrived after taking the train directly from Venice, an hour away. We then took an Uber to our house exchange on the left bank of the Adige River.

After settling in, we went in search of a restaurant.

We walked across the Ponte Vittoria (Victory Bridge) and, in five minutes, found ourselves right in the middle of Piazza Brà, otherwise known as tourist central.

The piazza was packed, and the energy electric. We quickly found an outdoor table across from Verona’s famous Roman arena and ordered—what else—pizza!

A bustling row of outdoor restaurants in Piazza Bra in Verona. The restaurants are packed with diners enjoying an evening meal beneath string lights and a covered terrace. — Piazza Brà Restaurants

What to See in Verona

Following is an overview of the places I visited during my week in Verona. While you can see quite a lot of the city in a day, slow down and consider spending a full week, or at least two or three full days. Verona has a lot to offer!

The Verona Arena

The most prominent reminder of Verona’s Roman past is the Arena di Verona. This must-see attraction was built in 30 AD (forty years before the Colosseum in Rome). The ancient Romans staged deadly gladiator and animal fights here—an entertainment staple throughout the Roman world.

The illuminated Roman amphitheater at night, surrounded by visitors, with its arches glowing under warm lights. — Verona Arena, 30 AD

In the following centuries, as was the medieval custom, the arena became a rich source for the construction materials needed to create new buildings in the city.

The structure we see today is the result of this constant scavenging and a devastating twelfth-century earthquake.

The arena has been in continual use over the centuries.

In the Middle Ages, judicial disputes were resolved by hand-to-hand combat here, and until the 18th century, this was the site of jousts and tournaments.

Today, the arena is the setting for Verona’s world-famous opera season.

Piazza Brà

The Piazza Brà is the main square in the center of Verona. (The term bra is derived from the German word breit, which means broad.) It’s one of Italy’s largest piazzas and an ideal spot for people-watching.

The welcoming, open space is paved with pink marble and lined with restaurants, majestic historical buildings, and the picturesque Portoni della Brà (Gates of the Bra).

The piazza Bra in Verona with people strolling under the arches of the historic gate, flanked by colorful buildings and outdoor cafes.

The Portoni della Piazza Brà archways are embedded in Verona’s medieval walls, connecting the city to the suburban countryside at the time.

Verona Tourist Office

The tourist office is located in the Piazza Brà. Here you can buy tickets for the Hop-on-Hop-off bus to explore Verona or book other city tours.

When I was younger, I had nothing but disdain for tourists who chose to explore a city in such a superficial manner.

Now, I’ve realized it’s an excellent way to quickly get the big picture, find your favorite points of interest, and save your feet for the main events—museums, churches, castles, and ruins.

Here are some tours in Verona to consider:

Porta Borsari

Not far from the Piazza Brà stands the impressive Porta Borsari (the Borsari Gate). Built in the first century AD, it was the primary entrance to the city in Roman times.

And it was here that medieval tax collectors charged tariffs on goods entering and exiting the city; hence the gate’s name, which roughly translates to “the money purse gate.”

On the other side of the gate is the Corso Porta Borsari, an ancient Roman street. Now, it’s a charming pedestrian shopping district known for its shoe stores.

An ancient Roman gateway with arched entrances and upper stories featuring windows, situated at the entrance to a busy pedestrian street in Verona. — Porta Borsari, 1st Century AD

Via Mazzini

Another ancient street—Via Mazzini—is slightly beyond the Porta Dei Borsari. The buildings on either side of this marbled walkway house Verona’s most elegant shops.

Although these stores sell the latest fashions, they’re rooted—as is everywhere else in Verona—in the past (literally).

A good example of this is the Benetton store. Its ground floor is covered in glass so you can see the first-century Roman domus (home) excavated beneath it.

Piazza delle Erbe

Both Via Mazzini and Corso Porta Borsari lead to the rectangular Piazza delle Erbe (Plaza of Herbs), originally the site of the Roman Forum.

This bustling square, surrounded by historic buildings, is now home to an open-air market, continuing one of the ancient forum’s traditional functions.

A market stall in Piazza delle Erbe, Verona, displaying an array of Venetian-style carnival masks with intricate designs in gold, red, and black. Below the masks are various trinkets, including keychains, jewelry, and other souvenirs, attracting visitors browsing the vibrant selection. — Outdoor market stall in the Piazza delle Erbe

Three historic relics adorn the middle length of the piazza: the Capitello, Madonna di Verona, and The Winged Lion of St. Mark.

Capitello

The Capitello (Capital) is a thirteenth-century canopied podium used in the Middle Ages to swear in magistrates.

A lively outdoor market in Piazza delle Erbe, Verona, Italy, with white canopy tents filled with clothing, souvenirs, and accessories. People are strolling, browsing stalls, and chatting, while historic buildings with intricate frescoes and warm-toned facades create a picturesque backdrop. The Capitello, a small stone structure, stands in the foreground, adding to the charming and historic ambiance of the square.

Madonna di Verona

The Madonna di Verona (My Lady of Verona) fountain is named for the Roman sculpture it supports. In 1368, the original statue that had inhabited the piazza since the first century was restored, given a crown, and placed atop a fountain.

This was at the peak of Verona’s medieval political power, and the sculpture was intended to personify the great city.

A central fountain in Piazza delle Erbe in Verona, featuring a statue of the Madonna di Verona atop a stone pedestal, surrounded by bustling market stalls and visitors.

Winged Lion of St. Mark

A tall marble column supports the winged lion of St. Mark. The sculpture was erected in 1523 as an emblem of the Venice Republic, which ruled Verona from the fifteenth to the eighteenth centuries.

Casa Mazzanti

Another art historical find in the Piazza delle Erbe is the painted façade of the Case Mazzanti (Mazzanti Houses), originally the residence of the powerful della Scala family, who ruled Verona during its medieval heydays.

In sixteenth and seventeenth century Verona, the palace facades of the city’s most prominent families were often entirely decorated with frescoes, so much so that Verona was nicknamed the painted city.

Many of these paintings did not survive, were plastered over, or were detached from their walls and exhibited in museums.

One of the best-preserved examples, and still in its original location, is Case Mazzanti, painted by Alberto Cavalli, a collaborator of the Mannerist painter Giulio Romano. It’s easy to see the influence of Michelangelo’s muscular style in these monumental frescoes.

A historic building with elaborate Renaissance frescoes on the facade, including mythological and decorative elements, above a balcony with potted plants.

Palazzo Maffei

At the northwest end of the piazza, the Palazzo Maffei (Maffei Palace) provides a grand theatrical finale to the entire space. The original building dates back to the fourteenth century but was completely redesigned into a sumptuous Baroque mansion in the seventeenth century.

Today, the palazzo houses the Casa Museo (House Museum) art collection and a fabulous restaurant—the Ristorante Maffei. The museum was closed when we were there, but we were able to eat a delicious lunch between the grand Baroque columns of its elegant courtyard.

Verona’s Roman Theater and Archaeological Museum

From the Palazzo Maffei, we wandered the narrow streets to the picturesque Ponte Pietra (Stone Bridge)—first built in Roman times but rebuilt often since. Crossing the bridge, we came to Verona’s restored Roman theater, dating to the first century AD and still used today.

A historic Roman stone bridge crossing the Adige River, with flowing water beneath and Verona’s bell towers and colorful buildings in the background.

An impressive archaeological museum nestles in the hillside high above the theater in what used to be a fifteenth-century Jesuit monastery.

It’s a steep climb on uneven steps to get to the museum, but it’s worth it for those who like ancient art and a stunning historic setting.

The restored Roman theater in Verona, featuring a semicircular arrangement of stone seats and a stage with the Adige River and city skyline in the background.

Archaeological Museum

Here are two interesting exhibits in the Archaeological Museum–an ancient Greek rhyton (drinking cup) from the 4th century BC and the torso of a Roman soldier.

A ceramic rhyton in the shape of a bull’s head, adorned with black and orange decorative patterns and motifs.

A marble sculpture of a Roman soldier’s torso, featuring intricate armor details including a lion motif and decorative medallions.

Verona’s Piazza dei Signori

Returning across the Ponte Pietra, we came upon the Piazza dei Signori (Plaza of the Lords) with its statue of Dante in the center.

The sculpture was commissioned in 1863 to honor the six-hundredth anniversary of Dante’s birth. Dante lived in Verona for seven years after his exile from Florence. Verona’s oldest café is also in this piazza. It named itself Caffè Dante after the Dante monument was installed. We didn’t eat at Caffè Dante, but I wish we had!

Shown below is the Piazza dei Signori. The Caffè Dante is to the left; the sculpture of Dante is in the center, and the Loggia del Consiglio is to the right.

The Piazza di Signori in Verona with a statue of Dante at its center, surrounded by historic buildings, outdoor cafes, and visitors enjoying the open space.

Palazzo della Ragione and Loggia del Consiglio

The piazza is surrounded by splendid buildings that began in the Middle Ages. The Palazzo della Ragione (Town Hall) was built by the powerful della Scala family mentioned earlier.

They ruled Verona during the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries—a time of significant economic and cultural achievement for the city. The palace had four towers in medieval times, but only one remains today—the breathtaking 275-foot-high Torre dei Lamberti (Lamberti Tower).

A side view of Palazzo della Ragione, with striped stone walls and a tall clock tower, located in Verona’s historic center.

On the north side of the Piazza dei Signori stands the fifteenth-century Loggia del Consiglio (Loggia of the Council)—a classic example of Early Renaissance design. The figures on top represent famous Verona citizens.

A historic loggia in Piazza dei Signori in Verona featuring arched colonnades and statues along its roofline, with visitors in the foreground.

The two buildings offer a sharp contrast of styles. While the medieval town hall incorporated soaring towers into its overall design to sweep you off your feet, the Renaissance loggia appeals more to the rational mind with its harmonious balance of horizontals and verticals.

The Church and Cemetery of Santa Maria Antica, Verona

Tucked around the corner down a narrow street from the Piazza dei Signori is the little twelfth-century church of Santa Maria Antica, which became the della Scala family church.

The sarcophagus and equestrian statue of Cangrande I adorn the church façade above the door.

Cangrande I was the most significant figure of the della Scala family. He protected Dante while in exile and was acclaimed as a great warrior and powerful autocrat who was Verona’s sole ruler from 1311 until he died in 1329.

Next to the church is the della Scala family cemetery with imposing Gothic tombs that almost overshadow the church itself.

Below is the Tomb of Cansignorio della Scala (who ruled Verona from 1359 to 1375). Like his more famous predecessor, Cangrande I, he’s depicted on horseback in full armor.

This is the most richly decorated tomb in the cemetery with the elaborate cast of characters on its base–warrior saints, Gospel figures, the Virtues, and the Apostles–even more impressive than the statue itself.

An ornate Gothic monument adorned with sculptures and pinnacles, topped with a statue of a knight on horseback.

Dinner and a View

After an exhilarating and exhausting day of sightseeing, a relaxing dinner in a beautiful location is always welcome. With this in mind, we dined one evening at the Re Teodorico Bar and Restaurant near Piazzale Castel San Pietro on San Pietro Hill overlooking the Adige River.

The hill has been inhabited since the beginning of Roman times, and the restaurant has been there for sixty years. The views from this spot are spectacular, and the food outstanding.

An outdoor terrace with shaded tables and chairs surrounded by greenery, offering diners a scenic view of the city at sunset. — Re Teodorico Bar

A panoramic view of Verona at sunset, showcasing the Adige River winding through the city and the dome of San Giorgio in Braida illuminated against the orange sky. — Re Teodorico view

Verona’s Castelvecchio

The della Scala family not only adorned Verona with magnificent tombs but also a magnificent castle.

The Castelvecchio is a massive fortress built next to the Adige River from 1354 to 1355 during the reign of Cangrande I.

The brick facade of Castelvecchio, featuring crenelated towers and a central arched entrance, with visitors walking around the plaza in front.

The fortified structure even spans the river, providing the castle inhabitants with a protected escape. Today, everyone can “escape” across this carefully reconstructed and gracefully arched Ponte di Castel Vecchio, a pedestrian bridge.

A scenic view of Castelvecchio Bridge and fortress reflecting on the calm waters of the Adige River under a bright blue sky.

Civico Museo d’Arte

The castle interior has been restored and transformed into bright exhibit spaces that include the collections of the Civico Museo d’Arte.

Paintings

The collection features sculptures and decorative arts in addition to paintings by Bellini, Rubens, Montagna, Guardi, Tiepolo, Tintoretto, Pisano, and artists of the fifteenth- and sixteenth-century Veronese school.

The detail below is from a painting called Madonna dell’ombrello (Madonna of the Umbrella), created by Girolamo dai Libri (Girolamo of books). Besides being a painter of large-scale works, he was also a manuscript illuminator, which explains his name and his ability to paint such beautiful, meticulous details.

Close-up of a small white dog standing near a detailed inscription, with a fish and human feet visible in the background.

You can see the complete painting below. Although Girolamo is not known as one of the Renaissance greats, I find this piece captivating.

Renaissance painting of the Madonna and Child under a lush canopy, with angels and saints surrounding them in a vibrant pastoral setting. — Madonna of the Umbrella, 1530,by Girolamo dai Libri, Castelvecchio, Verona. Photo source: Wikimedia Commons

Statues

Outside on the castle grounds stands the original equestrian sculpture of Cangrande I—a Gothic art masterpiece.

Although Cangrande was christened Can Francesco, his nickname—big dog in Italian—probably came from his physical and mental prowess. This nickname also explains the large dog-headed helmet with eagle wings that leans back on his shoulders in the sculpture.

But besides the elaborate helmet, the most striking thing about this artwork is Cangrande’s expression. Instead of looking serious or fierce, he appears to be resting between conflicts with a self-satisfied grin.

History remembers Cangrande as incredibly strong and brave in battle, but he was also known for his friendly and kind disposition. This sculpture, then, celebrates both the great warrior and the affable man.

A stone statue of a knight on horseback, intricately carved, standing outdoors against an ancient stone wall.

In a corner tower of the castle’s raised walkways, you can also see the original equestrian monument of Mastino II. He came into power after Cangrande I died. Like his uncle, he’s shown in full armor. But instead of being relaxed, he’s prepared for a fight, his face hidden behind a helmet in the form of a winged mastiff. As with Cangrande I, the helmet references his name. Mastino means mastiff in Italian.

A medieval-style equestrian sculpture of a knight in armor, displayed against a brick wall with natural light streaming in.

The Basilica of San Zeno, Verona

Leaving the Castelvecchio, we walked west along the Adige River until we came to a large eleventh- twelfth-century basilica dedicated to San Zeno, the fourth-century Veronese Bishop and Patron Saint of Verona.

But let me digress here for a moment. Although I wrote at the beginning of this post that my focus for this trip was not Romeo and Juliet, tradition says this church is where they married. So, as it turns out, we did see one of Romeo and Juliet’s haunts (although not the famous balcony, and quite unintentionally).

The church of San Zeno (pictured in the center below) is flanked by its elegant campanile on the right and the Benedictine abbey on the left with its classic medieval defensive tower. The three make a striking architectural ensemble.

The exterior of the Basilica of San Zeno, featuring a Romanesque design with a rose window, stone facade, and two nearby towers.

We accessed the church through a side entrance. The front portal stays shut to protect the massive interior bronze doors with their marvelously expressive Romanesque reliefs dating from the eleventh to the thirteenth centuries. Here is a detail from the bronze door.

A detailed bronze relief panel depicting a dramatic scene of an exorcism, with a small demon being cast out from a woman by a figure in regal attire, while another figure supports her. The panel is framed by an arched design and shows intricate craftsmanship.

Along with its masterful bronze portals, the church interior includes an exquisite one-of-a-kind, fourteenth-century wooden roof and walls covered with frescoes from the thirteenth to the fifteenth centuries. Some of these frescoes have peeled away over time to reveal the earlier paintings underneath, making marvelously surreal images.

Grand interior view of the Basilica of San Zeno in Verona, showcasing its high vaulted ceiling, striped stone walls, and intricate altar at the far end.

Ancient fresco depicting religious figures, including Jesus, with earthy tones and intricate details.

The pièce de résistance in this church is the elaborate fifteenth-century painting—Madonna with Saints—behind the high altar. Andrea Mantegna—one of the great artists of the Italian Renaissance—created this exquisitely detailed masterwork.

A detailed painting of the Madonna and Child seated under an ornate canopy, flanked by saints, with lush greenery and distant mountains in the background.

Staying in Verona

As I mentioned in the beginning, we did a house exchange in Verona, but our friends (seasoned travelers) recently stayed in Hotel Torcolo, located a few steps from the arena in the heart of the old town. They loved its location, antique charm, and a restaurant (pictured below) with great food and wine.

A cozy Italian restaurant with tables covered in white linens, surrounded by floral decorations and hanging greenery. Warm lighting and wine bottles enhance the romantic ambiance. — Torcolo Restaurant at the Hotel Torcolo

Day Trip to Lake Garda

During a week stay in Verona, consider taking a day trip to beautiful Lake Garda. The train from Verona Porta Nuova train station to Desenanzo del Garda/Sirmione takes just 20 minutes. Check out the Artsy Traveler post on Sirmione.

Here is a day trip with GetYourGuide:

Conclusion

So, there’s my take on Verona in a nutshell. It’s a marvelously rich town on so many levels—the architecture, the art, the history, the landscape, the food, and, well, yes, the Romeo and Juliet lore!

Have you visited Verona? Share your recommendations for other artsy travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts about destinations in northern Italy:

Austria: My Best Tips for an Artsy Trip

Austria, Destinations, Europe Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 30th, 2025 at 04:51 am

So you’ve decided to visit Austria. Great choice! What words does Austria conjure up for you. Waltzing? Mozart? The Sound of Music? Mountains?

If music was one of the things that came to mind, then put Austria–and Vienna in particular–on your must-visit list.

As a life-long devotee of classical music (I’ve played piano since I was five!), I always enjoy visiting both Vienna and Salzburg. I get a thoroughly classical music hit touring the houses of some of my fave composers, enjoying concerts, and checking out the wonderful House of Music in Vienna.

And if you are a museum-goer, you’ll swoon in Vienna, which has some of the largest and most varied museums in Europe. And then there are mountains! Travel west from Vienna to experience mountain vistas in Salzburg and Innsbruck.

Austria Highlights at a Glance

Explore the Tyrol and take a tour to Castle Neuschwanstein just over the border in Germany
See a classical music concert in Vienna
Stay in the Vienna and explore the amazing museums
Visit Salzburg and commune with Mozart and The Sound of Music

Practical Tips for Travel in Austria

In this post, I cover some of the basics of visiting Austria–when to visit, checking events, transportation, accommodations, and food.

But first, a bit of trivia! Did you know that Vienna has been named the most livable city in the world for the past three years in a row (and several more years before that)? The city earned a rating of 98.4 out of a possible 100. Wow!

Another one of my favorite cities in Europe also made the cut– Copenhagen is #2. My home town of Vancouver is #7 which isn’t too shabby!

A Map of Austria

The map below includes the four places mentioned in my posts about Austria: Vienna (#1), Salzburg (#2), Innsbruck (#3), and tiny little Pinswang (#4) where we stayed on a driving trip through Austria on our way to Italy. Click a number to view links to more posts.

Map from Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

Practical Tips for Travel in Austria

Here’s where I cover some of the basics of visiting Austria–when to visit, checking events, transportation, accommodations, and food.

Decide When to Visit

First off, decide when you want to visit. If you are hoping to enjoy cultural delights such as opera, festivals, and music events including performances by the Vienna Boys Choir, then visit between September and May.

I’ve visited Austria in both May and September and the weather was perfect for touring apart from the occasional day of rain.

Check Events and Exhibitions

Before you visit Austria, check online for exhibitions and performances. Also be on the lookout for local festivals.

You’ll definitely want to check what concerts are on while you’re in Vienna. Good websites to check include the Vienna Philharmonic, the Vienna Boys Choir and Concert Vienna.

Choose Your Transportation

Austria is not a large country and it’s easy to travel around. The drive from Vienna to Salzburg takes about three hours, four if you include a few stops.

Trains are also fast and efficient. Consider taking trains between cities (Vienna to Salzburg to Innsbruck) and then either renting a car to tour the countryside or booking a small group guided tour.

A good strategy when visiting Austria is to fly to Vienna, see the city for a few days, and then pick up a car to explore the rest of the country. We did that on one trip and found driving out of Vienna relatively stress-free compared to some other European cities such as Paris and Rome.

Public Transit

As a relatively small country, Austria is easy to explore by train. You can zip from Vienna to Salzburg in about 2 and a half hours. If you don’t want to drive, use the trains to get between the major cities (Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck) and then take day tours.

Small Group Tours

I highly recommend small group tours run by locals as a stress-free way to explore the countryside. If you enjoy driving, then by all means rent a car. But if you’d rather relax and leave the driving to someone else, consider day tours. I’ve sometimes left my car at my hotel and taken a small group tour of a particular region that I’d rather not drive through (e.g., tortuous Alpine roads).

Driving Through Austria

Often, I’ve driven through western Austria when traveling from Germany to Italy, crossing at the Brenner Pass.

On a recent trip, I stopped for the night just across the border in Austria from the town of Fussen, Germany. The town is famous for being close to “Mad Ludwig’s” castle, otherwise known as Neuschwanstein.

I spent the night in the tiny and impossibly charming village of Pinswang nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains. Called the Gutshof zum Schluxen, the 3-star bed-and-breakfast was everything a place in the fabled Austrian Tyrol should be.

The proprietor wore lederhosen, the wine was local, the dinner hearty and very Austrian, and the room with a view over the valley was comfortable and quiet.

If you’re staying in Munich and don’t have a car, see the castles on a guided day trip.

Castle Neuschwanstein in Schwangau Germany; destination not far from Austria — Castle Neuschwanstein in Schwangau Germany just over the border from Austria

Safety in Austria

Austria is a safe country to travel in. I stayed on my own for several days in Vienna. Every evening, I walked around the city and took transit to my apartment and I never felt in danger.

But, as always, be aware of your surroundings and wear your money belt!

Check out my post about traveling solo in Vienna.

Staying in Austria

I found Austria, and Vienna in particular, expensive. Even the 3-star bed-and-breakfast we stayed at in the Tyrol, the Gutshof zum Schluxen mentioned earlier, cost about €140 for one night.

Expect to pay €250-400 or more for a centrally located, good-quality hotel room in Vienna. When you’re looking for accommodation in Vienna, choose places within the old city walls.

You could opt for a budget hotel on the outskirts but I don’t recommend doing so. You’ll waste too much time commuting through dreary suburbs into the wonderful city center. Spend the money and book a good hotel in the old city.

I made the mistake of being budget conscious to a fault on one trip to Vienna when I booked an apartment about a 40-minute tram ride from the city center. Sure, the place was inexpensive, but the hot water ran out on the second day and it was located in a nondescript neighborhood, kilometers from the action.

For a giggle, read about that misadventure in Robbie Bubble, an excerpt from Pastel & Pen: Travels in Europe that I wrote and Gregg illustrated.

Apartments can be a good bet in Vienna, but again, book one in the center of the city. You’ll find excellent ones listed on HomeAway and on Booking.com. Click on the map below to find hotels in Vienna.

Booking.com

Eating in Austria

Two words describe food in Austria–hearty and filling. If you like wiener schnitzel, you’ll have no trouble getting well fed in Austria. Every menu includes it along with other staples such as tafelspitz, which is boiled beef with root vegetables. The broth is flavorful but when I tried it in Vienna, I can’t say I was impressed.

Homemade Breaded Wiener Schnitzel with Potatoes

For dessert, just try to resist Apple Strudel–layers and layers of flaky pastry, tender apples, powdered sugar–yeah, what’s not to like?

In Vienna, set aside an hour or two to drink coffee and eat a slice of sachertorte in one of the iconic coffee houses. Invented by Franz Sacher in 1832 for Prince Metternich in Vienna, a slice of sachertorte will slide down pretty darned smoothly–chocolate sponge cake, apricot, dark chocolate icing.

Sachertorte puts the ‘ee’ in sweet.

Sachertorte in Vienna, Austria — Sachertorte

Apparently, December 5 is National Sachertorte Day in the United States. Who knew?

Conclusion

Have you traveled to Austria? Share your experiences and recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Here are more posts to read next to help you plan your Austria trip:

Portugal: My Best Tips for an Artsy Trip

Destinations, Portugal Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 10th, 2025 at 05:10 pm

Travel to Portugal to experience a European country that has retained much of its Old World charm in an increasingly homogeneous world.

In many parts of Portugal, you’ll still feel as if you’ve stepped back in time.

In this post, I offer my best tips for touring this scenic and friendly country.

Portugal Highlights at a Glance

Consider driving in Portugal–it’s a breeze (except in Lisbon)
Attend a Fado concert and have your heartstrings pulled
Tour the megalithic sites in the Alentejo
Visit the Gulbenkian in Lisbon
Visit Porto, drink port wine, and stay in a place overlooking the river

Portugal vs. Spain

Portugal is not at all like Spain, which the Portuguese appreciate your remembering. Speaking Spanish in Portugal and expecting to be understood will not make you any friends. You’re far better to speak English.

Perhaps the key to differentiating Portugal from its brasher and bigger next-door neighbor is to compare their two signature music styles.

Fado music with its soulful, heartbreaking, yearning harmonies captures the essence of Portugal just as the relentless, in-your-face rhythms of flamenco is Spanish to the core.

Although small compared to Spain, Portugal packs a solid artsy punch. Spend a few weeks in Portugal exploring all it has to offer—and you’ll come away with plenty of reasons to return.

Portugal and the World

As a result of the Age of Discovery, Portugal has had an outsized effect on the planet. Over 260 million people worldwide speak Portuguese.

Find time for a trip to Portugal to experience friendly people and a unique culture, a fascinating history that includes ancient megaliths, Roman ruins, and world explorers, and a stunningly varied landscape.

Because of Portugal’s remoteness from the rest of Europe, fly there directly, then rent a car. We’ve driven to Portugal from France a few times and it’s a long way!

Introducing Portugal

A Bit of History

You may be surprised to learn that Portugal has its share of megaliths similar to those in Carnac in France and in other countries bordering the Atlantic.

And did you know that the Romans conquered Portugal (although it took several decades) and that many of Portugal’s cities and towns trace their roots to Roman founders?

The author leaning against an ancient dolmen at Cromeleque dos Almendres, a megalithic site near Evora in Portugal. — Hanging out at the Cromeleque dos Almendres, an amazing megalithic site near Évora in the Alentejo

During the Age of Exploration spanning the 15th to 17th centuries, Portugal sent scores of ships across the Atlantic to colonize huge swathes of the New World, most notably Brazil.

In modern times, the Carnation Revolution of 1974 led to the peaceful overthrow of fascism. The revolution is commemorated as a national holiday—Dia da Liberdade—on April 25.

Portugal is an extremely popular tourist destination—so much so that you’ll need to plan strategically to avoid crowds, particularly in Lisbon and in the Algarve.

Fortunately, there’s more to Portugal than big cities and sunny beaches. You’ll discover plenty of off-the-beaten-track, artsy sightseeing to keep you busy. Pop into Lisbon by all means, but make time in your itinerary for as much of Portugal as possible.

Planning to Travel in Portugal

Portugal extends from the Atlantic Ocean in the south to the Spanish border in the north and is bordered to the west by the Atlantic and to the east by Spain.

To drive from the Algarve in the south to Porto in the north takes about five hours—a distance of 554 kilometers over excellent and generally empty toll roads.

Choose Your Transportation

Even if you’ve been reluctant to drive in Europe because you’ve heard horror stories about traffic jams and impossibly tiny roads (and those stories are true!), consider driving in Portugal.

The toll freeways are lightly travelled, making getting from point to point exceptionally fast and easy. Even off the freeways, the traffic isn’t bad, with the notable exception of Lisbon.

I don’t recommend driving in Lisbon. Narrow streets, steep hills, lots of annoying tuk tuks, and speedy drivers make Lisbon a nightmare for drivers. Drop your car at the airport and take a taxi or a private transfer into Lisbon.

A line of tuk tuks on a street in Lisbon, Portugal — The recent arrival of scores of tuk tuks darting around the streets of Lisbon is not an improvement.

Public Transit

Getting to Portugal by train is challenging, as we discovered when we tried to get from Seville in Spain to Tavira in the Algarve. We ended up taking a bus across the border, then caught a train from Tavira to Lisbon.

Check the Omio and Trainline websites for rail schedules to see if traveling in Portugal by train makes sense for you.

Renting a Car

I suggest you fly to Lisbon, pick up your rental car at the airport, head out to explore Portugal, and then drop your car off at the airport. Grab a taxi into Lisbon and tour the city for a few days before flying home or to another part of Europe.

On our most recent trip to Europe, we picked up our car in Amsterdam and dropped it off in Lisbon after driving over 6,000 kilometers. Open-jaw car rentals are the best!

TIP: Don’t arrange to pick up your rental car in the center of the Lisbon. Take a taxi to the airport and pick up the car there.

Driving Tips

Driving in Portugal is delightful—beautiful scenery, excellent roads, and as mentioned, very little traffic. There have been times when driving in Portugal that we wondered if the apocalypse had started without our knowing. There were that few cars on the road!

You’ll pay tolls to travel on the highways and these tolls do add up. Always make sure to get a ticket at one of the drive-through booths before you enter a toll freeway. We missed the toll booth on one stretch of our trip and were obliged to pay for the entire length of the freeway rather than just the small portion we traveled on. Ouch!

The distances in Portugal are short compared to Spain. String together several small towns for a day of exploring or pick an area to home-base. The Algarve, the Alentejo, and Porto are all good choices.

TIP: Be careful about driving into the center of a Portuguese town or city. You might find yourself lost in a maze of tiny back streets as we once did in Porto. Find a large, secure parking lot as close to your hotel or apartment as you can comfortably drive on main roads. Then walk to your place or hail a taxi.

Driving into Portugal

You cross the border into Portugal from Spain to the north and Spain to the east.

The drive from Seville to the southwest tip of the Algarve takes just a few hours. Other options are crossing the border about halfway down Portugal’s eastern border via Salamanca or driving south from Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain.

Traveling to Portugal--entering Portugal by way of the Algarve — I snapped this shot as we drove into the Algarve from Spain. Note that sparse traffic!

Check for Events and Exhibitions

Before you travel in Portugal, check online for exhibitions and performances. Also be on the lookout for local festivals.

In 2019, friends I was visiting in the beach town of Figueira da Foz in central Portugal told us about a fantastic exhibition of the work of M.C. Escher in Porto which was next on our itinerary. What luck!

In one of the rooms in the exhibition, you can see the effects of Escher’s trademark optical illusions.

Gregg Simpson in the M. C. Escher exhibition - optical illusion makes him look small — Gregg is small…

Gregg Simpson in the M. C. Escher exhibition - optical illusion makes him look tall — Gregg is tall.

Ask at your hotel about local exhibitions. The same day we saw the Escher exhibition in Porto, we were strolling through central Porto after attending a fado concert when we spied a poster for a Picasso exhibition.

Although past 7 pm, the exhibition was still open so in we went to enjoy a wonderful half hour followed by a glass of port that was included in the ticket price.

Artsy Favorites in Portugal

Fado

Fado’s roots can be traced back to the 1820s, but likely extend far beyond that. It’s a form of song characterized by mournful lyrics and heart-bending harmonies soaked in melancholy.

The Portuguese word saudade captures the meaning of fado—a longing for what’s lost, a resignation to the cruelties of fate. Fado literally means fate.

I once heard fado described as Portuguese hurtin’ music and that pretty much sums it up.

A fado singer in an Alfama restaurant in Lisbon

Fado is performed only by men in Coimbra and by either a male or a female singer in Lisbon and is accompanied by one or two guitarras (10- or 12-string guitars), one or two violas (6-string guitars), and sometimes also a viola baixo (a small 8-string bass viola).

Fado in Lisbon

Gregg and I adore fado and seek it out whenever we travel to Portugal. In Lisbon, you’ll find fado in restaurants in the Alfama and Bairro Alto districts.

You’ll hear the music spilling out as you walk by. Go in, order a meal, and prepare to be blown away.

Our favorite place that we return to on every visit to Lisbon is Restaurante Canto do Camões on Travessa da Espera in the Bairro Alto.

It’s small and intimate with a friendly owner, good food, and wonderful fado. The place doesn’t appear to have a website, but you’ll find reviews on TripAdvisor. On our last visit there, we had a great chat with one of the guitarists who had lived in Toronto, and bought his CD.

Fado and food service alternate. You’re served your food while the performers are resting and then you’re expected to be quiet during the performance.

A table of diners started talking and were promptly shushed by the owner—and rightly so!

guitar used in fado — Guitar in a fado club

To learn more about fado, visit the Fado Museum in the Alfama district of Lisbon.

Here’s an option for a fado performance in Lisbon:

Fado in Coimbra

In Coimbra, fado is sung by men only, often groups of students. The experience is different from Lisbon but just as soulful.

When you’re in Coimbra, go to the Cultural House àCapella – Fado Center for the nightly show that starts at 9:30 pm. The center is housed in a 14^th-century chapel and includes a bar and tapas service.

Fado being sung in Coimbra in Portugal — Fado is sung by men only in Coimbra.

Here’s an option for seeing fado in Coimbra:

Fado in Porto

I also saw a wonderful performance in Porto where fado places are not as prevalent as in Lisbon and Coimbra.

The late afternoon performance at Casa da Guitarra featured a spectacular female singer and included a glass of port. Highly recommended!

Here’s an option to get tickets:

Megalithic Sites

The Alentejo region of Portugal, notably around Évora where I suggest you stay for two nights, is a treasure trove of megalithic sites.

In fact, the area is considered the most important area for megaliths in the Iberian Peninsula.

Most of the megaliths are standing stones that date from the Early Neolithic period (5500-4500 BC). Megaliths abound in fields around Évora: more than 10 megalithic enclosures, 100 isolated menhirs, 800 dolmens and 450 megalithic settlements. Wow!

Standing stones of the Almendres Cromlech near Évora — Almendres Cromlech near Évora

Head west out of Évora to the Almendres Cromlech (Cromeleque dos Almendres), a megalithic complex reputed to be one of the world’s oldest—over 2,000 years older than Stonehenge.

More than 100 standing stones bristle down a hillside. Wander among them at will, take pictures and commune with the ancestral forces. Whenever we’ve visited, the place has been virtually deserted.

Follow the road signs to the site from the small village of Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe.

Not far from the Almendres megaliths is the Almendres Menhir which was erected to mark the sunrise in the summer solstice.

If you don’t have a car and want to see the megaliths, check out this full-day tour from Lisbon:

Roman Sites

The Romans colonized Portugal like they did most of western Europe and left behind a number of impressive ruins.

I visited two of the principal sites—the Roman temple in Évora and the ruins of Conímbriga near Coimbra and the largest of the Roman settlements excavated in Portugal.

Roman Temple in Évora

The evocative remains of the Roman Temple of Évora dominate the main square. Also referred to as the Temple of Diana (Templo de Diana), the temple is believed to have been constructed in the 1st century A.D.

Apparently, there’s scant proof that the temple was erected to honor the goddess of the hunt, and that referring to the temple as the Temple of Diana might be the result of a legend created in the 17th century by a Portuguese priest.

Roman "Temple of Diana" in Evora, Portugal — Portugal, Alentejo, Évora: Temple of Diana

Who knows? You can’t miss the temple when you visit Évora. Hang around until sunset to get some nice shots of the columns against the blue sky of the Alentejo.

Conímbriga

We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Conímbriga, located about 16 kilometers from Coimbra. Check it out on your way into Coimbra coming from the Alentejo. The highlight of the site is the villas paved with amazing floor mosaics, particularly the Casa dos Repuxos (House of Fountains). We were riveted.

The museum features a scale model of the forum showing how it looked back in the day, along with plenty of objects from the site including mosaics, sculptural fragments, coins, jewelry and everyday household items.

The author Carol Cram next to a pillar in the Roman ruins of Coninbriga in Portugal — Behind a pillar at Conímbriga

Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation

Artsy Travelers make a beeline for the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian in Lisbon—Portugal’s answer to the Louvre. What a great place with a marvellously eclectic range of artworks from the private collection of oil magnate Calouste Gulbenkian.

You’ll see treasures from the West and the East including Egyptian relics, Chinese porcelain, Western paintings, and room after room of jewelry, furniture, sculptures, and more. Artists include Rubens, Rembrandt, Turner, and Degas along with stunning works by jewelry designer René Lalique.

In addition to the founder’s collection, the Gulbenkian features what is considered the most complete collection of modern and contemporary Portuguese art.

After touring the museum, chill out for awhile in the beautifully landscaped gardens before catching a bus or the metro back to the center of Lisbon.

Here’s on option for getting tickets to the Gulbenkian that includes the Modern Art Museum:

Practical Tips for Travel in Portugal

Communicating in Portugal

English is widely spoken in Portugal as is French. In Portugal, American and British TV shows are broadcast in English with Portuguese subtitles which may account for why more people in Portugal speak English (or so it seemed to me) than do people in Spain.

In Spain, you’ll be hard-pressed to find any TV channels in English except for some very repetitive news channels. Programs not originally broadcast in Spanish are dubbed in Spanish.

In Portugal, people don’t expect tourists to know Portuguese, but you’ll earn more smiles if you at least make an effort.

And it’s probably not wise to speak Spanish as a substitute for Portuguese. In my experience, people would rather speak English or French than Spanish. Although you’ll hear some similarities to Spanish, Portuguese is its own very distinct language.

Here are a few useful words and phrases.

Sim – Yes
Não – No
Obrigado/Obrigada – Thank you. Men say obrigado. Women say obrigada. You’ll probably be okay sticking with obrigado if you prefer not to be gender specific.
Por favor – Please: the magic word in any language
Olá – Hello. Use this a lot!
Não estou entendendo – I don’t understand.
Você fala inglês? – Do you speak English?
Bom Dia – Good morning.
Como você está? – How are you?
Boa Noite – Good evening.

Eating in Portugal

Fish and pork are two staples in Portugal. The food is generally plain and filling. Accompany it with a few glasses of vinho verde and finish off with a glass (or three) of port wine.

I became quite attached to port on my most recent trip to Portugal when we visited Porto and sampled port across the river in Gaia. Read more in Exploring North and Central Portugal.

A glass of port with the town of Porto in the background — Enjoying a glass of port in Gaia overlooking Porto

We enjoyed the best food of our travels in the Alentejo region where gourmet restaurants are sprouting up to showcase the local cuisine.

As in Spain, portions in Portugal can be generous. Be careful not to over-order! These days, Gregg and I often order one dish to share. We always have enough food and the servers don’t mind.

Staying in Portugal

We’ve had good luck with our accommodations in Portugal (three trips, so far). Service is excellent, rooms are spacious and comfortable, and rates are reasonable, although Lisbon is expensive.

On average, we pay €100 a night for a comfortable three-star hotel, and about €150 for a similar hotel in Lisbon.

For more information and recommendations about places to stay in Portugal see Where to Stay in Portugal: My Best Picks.

Conclusion

Have You Been to Portugal? Please share your tips and suggestions for travel in Portugal with other artsy travelers in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts about Portugal:

How to Explore Italy’s Campania in 7 Days

Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:33 pm

The Campania region of southern Italy is packed with swoon-worthy sites. A week in Campania is just about long enough to get a good sense of the area.

And if you have even more time, you won’t run out of things to see!

In this post, I present a suggested itinerary that includes two nights in Naples, three nights in Sorrento on the Amalfi coast, and two nights in off-the-beaten-track Paestum.

If you have more time and you’re driving, you could throw in a night or two in Positano south of Sorrento on the Amalfi coast.

Pinterest graphic with the text Itinerary for a perfect Week in Italy's Campania over a view of Mount Vesuvius across the Bay of Naples from Naples, Italy.

Itinerary at a Glance

Day 1 & 2: Stay in Naples at Palazzorefici and explore the National Archaeological Museum and Pompeii (or Herculaneum)
Day 3, 4, 5: Stay in Sorrent at the Hotel Eden and explore Capri & and Amalfi Coast
Day 6 & 7: Venture south to Paestum and stay at the Hotel Savoy on the coast

Overview

The Campania region of southern Italy is anchored by the sprawling, crazy, fascinating city of Naples. This is where I suggest you start your exploration of the region. Use it as a home base for the first two days, devoting your first day to exploring Naples and then your full day to exploring Pompeii, Herculaneum, and/or Vesuvius.

Then, set off for Sorrento where you’ll home base for three days and take day trips down the Amalfi Coast. Then, scoot back to the highway and tootle south to Paestum.

While the Amalfi coast is extremely tight and can be mobbed. Paestum is relatively peaceful with expansive beaches and the most awesome Greek ruins you’ll find anywhere in the Mediterranean.

First, I provide some tips about getting around the Campania, and then I share my suggestions for what to do and see on each of your seven days in this picturesque and historic region of Italy.

Getting Around Campania

Driving in this area is not for the faint-hearted and not the best idea unless you’re coming from another region of Italy and already have a car.

If you’re flying into Naples, don’t pick up your car until you’re on your way out. Take a taxi to the airport, pick up your rental car, and then head for Sorrento.

If you’d rather not rent a car, modify the itinerary to use a combination of public transit, small group tours, and private transfers.

Another option is to spend the entire week in Sorrento, which is located between Naples and the Amalfi coast, and take day trips from there. You may need to skip Paestum, but you can spend more time on the Amalfi Coast and have a day or two free to just chill or perhaps visit the fabled Isle of Capri.

You’ll spend more time commuting, but you could save money on restaurant meals by renting an apartment for the week.

Plus, there’s something to be said for coming back every evening to the charming ambiance in the historic center of one of southern Italy’s most beguiling towns.

Looking over the Mediterranean from Sorrento

Highlights of your week include visits to Vesuvius and/or Pompeii, the Isle of Capri and the Blue Grotto, the towns of Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi on the stunning Amalfi Coast, and Paestum about two hours farther south on the Mediterranean coast (best with a car).

Day 1: Arrive in Naples

Naples is kind of crazy, which is part of its charm.

Take the train directly from Rome and then take a taxi from the Naples train station to your hotel.

I recommend staying in the Plebiscito area and splurging on a hotel that includes a sweeping view of the Bay of Naples with Vesuvius steaming gently in the distance.

View over the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius. — Stunning view over the Bay of Naples

On your first afternoon, take a taxi to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (the National Archeological Museum) which contains one of the world’s finest collections of Greco-Roman artifacts.

Read my post detailing some of the highlights of this fantastic museum: How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.

A Naples Art Card offers discounted entry into the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and several other major museums in Naples.

Other things to see in Naples include the opulent Palazzo Reale located in the Piazza del Plebiscito and the nearby Castel Nuovo. From the top of the castle ramparts, you’ll enjoy stunning views of Naples and the harbor.

In the evening, stroll through the atmospheric Santa Lucia district–a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets winding from just west of the Piazza del Plebiscito down to the sea.

Stroll along the waterfront overlooking the Gulf of Naples, then dine at one of the many seafood restaurants on the harbor. Here’s Gregg with Mount Vesuvius in the background.

Safety in Naples

Are you safe in Naples? The city has a reputation for petty crime, but how dangerous is it for the tourist? This article gives you the lowdown, but the short answer is yes, you’re safe in Naples.

I never felt unsafe, although I did occasionally get ripped off by taxi drivers. But by and large, I found the people in Naples friendly and enthusiastic.

Day 2: Mt. Vesuvius and Pompeii

You could probably “do” Vesuvius, Pompeii, and Herculaneum on a day trip from Naples, but I don’t recommend it. Instead, choose two of the three sites and enjoy them at a relatively leisurely pace.

I suggest Pompeii and Vesuvius or Vesuvius and Herculaneum. If you’d prefer to skip the mountain, then find a small group tour that goes to both Pompeii and Herculaneum for a thoroughly ruinous day.

The key is to save yourself stress by taking guided tours to these incredible sites. It’s possible to see them via public transit, but unless your budget is really tight, I suggest you give your day over to an experienced guide and then sit back and soak up the landscape and the history.

And if the weather is super hot, I seriously suggest you skip Pompeii and instead enjoy the art of Pompeii at the Naples Archeological Museum in air-conditioned comfort. Touring the Pompeii ruins, where there is no shade and a lot of bare stone, can become too much of an ordeal for this artsy traveler!

Vesuvius

I first scaled Vesuvius in a chair lift on a bitterly cold December day. The views were spectacular as was the proximity to the smoking crater.

Nowadays, you’ll have to hike uphill for a steep 30 minutes to reach the summit. From there, circumnavigate the crater’s lip to enjoy jaw-dropping views of Naples, the Mediterranean, and Pompeii.

Mount Vesuvius looming behind the ruins of the Forum in Pompeii

The eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD buried the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum in ash and lava. For eighteen hours, the mountain spewed ash, dust and rocks twelve miles into the sky. The poor folks in Pompeii and Herculaneum didn’t have a chance.

Here’s a tour from Naples that includes Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius:

Pompeii

The most poignant thing about Pompeii’s ancient ruins is their frozen-in-time quality. Volcanic ash has preserved the bodies of people and animals twisted in the final throes of death.

You also get a remarkable look at everyday life. You’ll see electoral propaganda messages painted on walls, elegant villas, modest houses, peasant dwellings, and even squalid brothels.

Walk through narrow lanes to see the remains of workshops complete with furniture, tools, lamps, and foodstuffs. One of my favorite things was seeing the ruts cut into the stone roads by chariot wheels.

Frescoes decorate the walls of Casa della Fontana Piccola in Pompeii. — Amazing frescoes decorate the walls of Casa della Fontana Piccola in Pompeii.

You need to spend at least an afternoon in Pompeii. If you’re a big fan of Roman ruins, choose a day tour that gives you plenty of time to explore the ancient ruins.

If you have the energy, walk to the Villa of the Mysteries where you’ll find some of the best-preserved frescoes still in situ in Pompeii.

Frescoes from most of the other villas in the city have long since been removed to the Naples Archeological Museum.

Herculaneum

Allow yourself time to visit Herculaneum. Although smaller than Pompeii, Herculaneum is richer, with larger houses, more impressive mosaics, and better-preserved ruins.

More complete houses remain because the ash from Vesuvius destroyed Herculaneum in a different way than it did Pompeii. In Pompeii, falling ash collapsed many of the roofs, whereas the ash fell more slowly over Herculaneum, covering and preserving wood and other organic objects.

Herculaneum is less crowded than Pompeii and much smaller, with better frescoes and mosaics. However, much of the city is yet to be excavated.

Second Evening in Naples – Pizza!

In the evening, find a pizza place and enjoy Naples’s most famous food export. The pizza in Naples really is amazing!

And if you have time, why not combine dinner with a pizza-making cooking class! Here’s an option on GetYourGuide:

Day 3: Onwards to Sorrento

Take the train from Naple to the charming town of Sorrento or catch the ferry from Naples. Or, as noted earlier, pick up your rental car from the airport and drive to Sorrento.

On a recent visit to Campania, I parked on the outskirts of Naples rather than risk driving into the city (wise move!). At the end of my Naples stay, I took a taxi to the parking lot and then carried on to Sorrento.

On another trip, I took a taxi to Sorrento from our hotel in Naples and got into trouble when the driver demanded payment upon our arrival at the hotel in Sorrento. I’d already paid the manager of the hotel in Naples for the taxi. Unfortunately, we’d mistakenly taken the wrong taxi at the Naples hotel.

The driver spoke only Italian and was very angry with the stupid tourists who didn’t want to pay twice for the ride. Fortunately, the manager of the hotel in Sorrento called the Naples manager, and, after much yelling and gesticulating, during which time I was sure blows would be traded, everything was sorted out. The taxi driver grudgingly shook our hands and presumably drove back to Naples to get his money.

I haven’t taken the ferry to Sorrento, but it seems like a great option. The ride is scenic and takes only 45 minutes. Purchase tickets here.

Hanging Out in Sorrento

Lemon trees and palm trees, houses clinging to cliffs, stunning views of the coast and the turquoise Mediterranean–this area of southern Italy is postcard-perfect.

And Sorrento makes the perfect home base to explore the area.

Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast, Italy — Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast

The whole point of Sorrento is to slow down and relax. Amble along the small streets and enjoy la dolce vita. If you’re into shopping, Sorrento is the place to buy inlaid wooden boxes. I still have the wooden music box I bought on my first trip to Sorrento in the 1970s.

Sorrento is also a good place to buy cameos. Unfortunately, I lost the pink cameo I bought there. I still miss that cameo.

In the early evening, join the locals for the passeggiata. Families and couples dress up and stroll the shady streets, talking and laughing, gelatos in hand. The bars are full, and everything seems right with the world.

Day 4: Visit Capri

If the weather is fine, book a boat tour to the fabled island of Capri and its Blue Grotto. Yes, Capri can get crowded, but it’s drop-dead gorgeous, with its white limestone cliffs, azure views of the Tyrrhenian Sea, and tumbling gardens.

Catch an early hydrofoil from Sorrento to avoid the cruise-ship crowds that clog the streets by midday.

A visit to Capri’s Blue Grotto is worth the time and effort required to get there, even if you’re only in the grotto soaking up the blue for a few minutes.

The Blue Grotto is a sea cave famous for its luminous blue light and shimmering waters accessible only in a tiny dinghy through a narrow entranceway.

Duck!

A boat you catch on Capri stops at the grotto and waits while you board the dinghy and are rowed into the grotto. If you’re prone to seasickness, pop a Gravol before leaving the dock in Capri.

Scrambling into the little dingy from the larger boat can be either entertaining or terrifying, depending on your fitness level and tolerance for danger.

I didn’t ask the guide how many people fall into the water every year. I suspect he wouldn’t have wanted to tell me.

The Blue Grotto is open year round, weather permitting. I visited on a sunny day in late December. Here’s a tour from Sorrento with GetYourGuide:

Day 5: Explore the Amalfi Coast

Continue home-basing in Sorrento and take a day trip to visit the Amalfi coast, or pull up stakes and make Positano your home for two nights. I suggest the latter to give you a more intimate feel for this charming town that tumbles down the cliff to the Mediterranean.

Devote an afternoon to visiting the town of Amalfi to view its colorful houses and stroll the beach.

Positano and romance go hand in hand. Did you ever see Only You with Marisa Tomei? The scenes in Positano are some of the movie’s most beautiful. If you have a lot of money, stay at the Sirenuse Hotel where scenes from the movie were shot.

Visit Positano to steep yourself in beauty. Wander the tiny streets, gaze out at the views, snap hundreds of photos, eat great food, and just relax.

If you’re home-basing in Sorrento, consider a boat trip down the Amalfi Coast:

Day 6: Go to Paestum

If you’re driving, backtrack to Sorrento and get back out to the highway connecting Naples to the south, and head farther south to marvelous Paestum.

You can also keep driving along the coast, but the road is very winding and the trip will take longer.

In Paestum, you’ll find some of the best preserved Greek temples in the world (including in Greece!). I really enjoyed spending a few days in this lovely area of southern Italy.

Greek temple in Paestum in southern Italy

Paestum feels off the beaten track, although in the summer months, the beaches can get crowded, mostly with Europeans on vacation.

Give yourself plenty of time to explore the three Greek temples at Paestum and the charming archeological museum. The temples are incredibly well-preserved, with columns that must be seen to be appreciated.

Photos can’t capture the sheer enormity of these columns that were built to hold up the temples 2,500 years ago.

Consider a small group guided tour of the temples and the archeological museum. You’ll learn a great deal about this amazing archeological site.

Day 7: Relax on the Beach

Stay in a hotel near the beach and take a day off from your vacation. Some of the hotels, such as the Hotel Savoy where I stayed for two nights have beach clubs overlooking the sea where you can relax on a sun lounger while sipping a limoncello.

Where to Stay in Campania

Naples

Here are two options, both of which I’ve stayed in and recommend:

The Hotel Paradiso is located on Posillipo Hill, the hotel has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.

The Palazzorefici is a stylish apartment deep in the heart of Naples on a tiny side street. It’s close to a main street where you can easily get taxis to where you want to go in Naples.

Sorrento

The Hotel Eden has a central location in Sorrento, with rooms on the upper floors overlooking the stunning view of the Bay of Naples. Lush gardens and a pool provide a welcome oasis. This is a good choice for Sorrento, although not budget-friendly.

Positano

Prices are high in this holiday mecca, so if Positano is above your price range, consider staying longer in Sorrento and taking a day tour down the Amalfi coast.

In Positano, the über posh Sirenuse Hotel is über expensive, but if you’re budget runs to it – wowee! Scenes from Only You were filmed there.

A more budget-friendly option is the Villa Antonietta that still has sea views but is much more modestly appointed.

Paestum

The Hotel Savoy, steps from the beach near Paestum is an awesome place to stay. It’s super luxurious and yet surprisingly affordable.

Here’s the view of the reflecting pool from our room.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Campania? Add your suggestions in the comments below. For more posts about Italy, check out:

Art Masterpieces in Tuscany You Don’t Want to Miss

Arts & Culture, Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:33 pm

Art masterpieces in Tuscany are as thick on the ground as grapes at harvest time.

When you visit Tuscany, you’ll enjoy la dolce vita, for sure, but in between sips of some of the world’s best wine, prepare to have your breath taken away by some of the world’s most cherished art.

Let’s face it, Tuscany is the perfect storm for art lovers with its stunning scenery, amazing food, tons of history, and world-class art.

Giant stone sculpture of a bearded man surrounded by trees, featured in an artsy traveler blog post titled “Art in Tuscany: Ten Masterpieces You Don’t Want to Miss.”

In this post, I present a selection of the art masterpieces to consider including in your Tuscany travels—whether this is your first trip or your tenth (or somewhere in between).

Top Masterpieces at a Glance

Paintings by Martini, da Vinci, Botticelli & Artemisia at the Uffizi in Florence
Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia in Florence
Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti at the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena
Snares of Love by Memmo di Fillipucio in the Palazzo Pubblico in San Gimignano
Tarot Garden by Niki Saint Phalle in Grosseto

Overview

You’ll recognize some of the art included in this post, but others you may not be familiar with. I include both individual masterworks and art destinations in Tuscany.

A few of my suggested places are a fair way off the beaten path which means they won’t be crowded.

Organization

I’ve grouped the art by location:

Florence
Villa Demidoff (Outside Florence)
San Gimignano
Siena
Il Giardino dei Tarocchi near Grosseto

The map of Tuscany below shows the general locations of the pieces covered in this post. See individual places for more detailed maps.

Map from Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

My list is in no way exhaustive. Tuscany is chock-a-block with magnificent art, and to list all of them requires books, not blog posts. This list is a starting point to help you create your own perfect Tuscany itinerary.

Art in Florence

For many travelers to Tuscany, Florence, birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, is their only destination, which is a shame.

This wonderful city is worth visiting, and you’ll see amazing art galore, but it’s also extremely crowded and lacks the charm of other, smaller Tuscan towns, such as Siena and Lucca.

Florence Cathedral’s iconic dome and bell tower rising above a dense cluster of terracotta rooftops with mountains in the distance. — Duomo in Florence, Italy

That said, if you haven’t been to Florence, then you should include it on your itinerary. Stay at least two nights and preferably three or four.

You won’t run out of important works of art to enjoy.

Map of Florence

Florence is a very walkable and compact city. You can easily stroll between each of the main sites.

Trip map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

Uffizi Gallery

The Uffizi Gallery in Florence is masterpiece-central in Tuscany and a must-see. But be warned! You really, really need to make reservations for the Uffizi.

Don’t just show up hoping to walk right in. That is, unless you enjoy standing in long lines that move an inch a minute while all the people with pre-purchased tickets whisk by. It’s disheartening.

Here’s a ticket option for the Uffizi that includes a small group guided tour.

My Favorite Pieces

Here, I’m including four of my fave masterpieces in the Uffizi. For more details, check out my post: Top Ten Favorites at the Uffizi Gallery in Spectacular Florence

The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333)

That’s a mouthful. I just call it Martini’s Annunciation. The subject of the annunciation—when the angel Gabriel flutters to earth and informs the Virgin Mary that she is to be the mother of Christ—was popular in medieval and Renaissance art.

I love this version by Martini and Memmi because of the expression on Mary’s face. She’s like, what? Seriously?

Gothic triptych altarpiece showing the Annunciation, with an angel and Mary flanked by two saints in a gilded, ornate frame. — *The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus* by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333) [Public domain]

I’m also taken with the gold background and the flatness of the figures, a characteristic of 14th century art.

You’ll come across Martini’s Annunciation shortly after entering the Uffizi. A lot of people trudge right past it on a beeline for the more famous paintings by Botticelli, da Vinci, et al, but stop in the galleries of 14^th-century paintings and spend some time.

You’ll be well rewarded and won’t be jostling for viewing room with thousands of selfie-stick wielders.

Annunciation by da Vinci

In later centuries, Annunciations, such as the famous one by Leonardo da Vinci below, look more realistic, but I like the energy and composition of the Martini one the best.

Since the art in the Uffizi is arranged chronologically, you’ll see da Vinci’s Annunciation after you view the Martini and Memmi version.

Leonardo da Vinci’s “Annunciation” painting, showing the angel Gabriel greeting the Virgin Mary with a serene garden backdrop. — *The Annunciation* by Leonardo da Vinci: Public Domain

Birth of Venus by Botticelli (1485)

You’ve probably seen many reproductions of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. The goddess of beauty and love arrives on the island of Cyprus, born of the sea spray and blown by the winds Zephyr and Aura (seen in the top left corner).

Venus perches on the edge of a giant scallop shell as goddesses are wont to do. She’s just so danged perfect.

I mean, look at that hair!

“Birth of Venus” depicting the goddess Venus emerging from a seashell on the sea, with figures blowing wind and a robed woman awaiting her arrival. — *Birth of Venus* by Sandro Botticelli: Public Domain

The room containing several paintings by Botticelli is generally really crowded. If possible, visit the Uffizi early or late in the day so you can swoon in relative solitude.

Other Works by Botticelli

In addition to Birth of Venus, you’ll also see Botticelli’s equally famous Primavera along with several more of his paintings exhibited in four consecutive rooms.

And once you’ve finished looking at the real things, you can buy them on just about every knick-knack known to humanity in the many gift shops lining the streets of the city.

Primavera mouse pad? Sure. Birth of Venus apron? Definitely.

Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi

Hooray for Artemisia Gentileschi, one of the first recognized woman artists of the Baroque period. Several other women artists from the period (and earlier) have gained notice in recent years, but Artemisia is the one most people think of when asked to name a woman artist from back in the day.

She was also the first woman to be admitted to the Academy of Art and Design in Florence, which was no small feat at the time.

Artemisia’s painting of Judith beheading poor old Holofernes (hey, he deserved it) is an amazing work. Look at Judith’s muscles as she holds down Holofernes.

This subject was a favorite of the period, and male artists usually depicted Judith as a bit of an ethereal wimp. Not Artemisia. She doesn’t shy away from showing the sheer brute strength that Judith would need to saw the head off a man.

She and her maid are working hard!

Dramatic Baroque painting by Artemisia Gentileschi, depicting Judith and her servant beheading Holofernes with expressions of intense determination. — *Judith Beheading Holofernes* (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi: Public Domain

Two Amazing Davids

That’s Davids plural because in Florence you must see the super-famous David by Michelangelo as well as the not-quite-so-famous-but still-awesome David by Donatello.

Both Davids represent the Renaissance in different ways.

Michelangelo’s David

The most famous statue of David is the one created by Michelangelo and displayed in the Accademia, another place for which you must secure reservations or risk a long line-up.

David stands with magnificent insouciance at the end of a long hallway lined with other works by Michelangelo.

Some of these works are unfinished—human figures emerging half-formed from marble blocks. I like these works almost more than the finished sculptures because they show the process of turning blocks into humans.

Close-up of Michelangelo’s David statue, showing detailed facial features and the muscular hand gripping a stone sling. — Michelangelo’s *David* in the Accademia Gallery

When you finally work your way up to the front of the line and stand in front of David in all his naked glory, you’ll know what all the fuss is about.

He is magnificent.

Although sculpted from marble, the muscles and sinews appear to pulse with life. Every inch of him is perfection—a testament to the beauty and power of the human form.

I remember wandering around the back of him and staring up at a pair of buttocks that any gym rat would kill for. While thinking unholy thoughts, I was joined by a bevy of nuns. They weren’t speaking English, so I couldn’t understand what they were saying, but they were definitely smiling—and, truth be told, giggling.

Well, no wonder.

Here’s an topin for purchasing your timed-entry ticket to see Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia.

Donatello’s David

Donatello’s David at the marvelous Bargello Museum (reservations also recommended) might as well be a different species.

Where Michelangelo’s marble-carved David is tall, strong, and, let’s face it, hunky, Donatello’s bronze David is relaxed, laid-back, and kind of pretty.

He wears a hat festooned with flowers and leans on his sword, one hand on his hip. He’s like, come on Goliath, I dare ya to come at me.

Donatello’s David is famous for being the first free-standing bronze sculpture since antiquity.

A bronze statue of David by Donatello, viewed from behind. The sculpture showcases a youthful, lightly dressed figure wearing a hat and boots, with one foot resting on the severed head of Goliath, displayed in a dimly lit interior space.

The Bargello Museum—a former prison—includes many more wonderful artworks to enjoy, including sculptures by Benvenuto Cellini and works by Michelangelo, including his statue of Bacchus.

Fra Angelico at the Museo di San Marco

The Museo di San Marco is a little off the beaten path which means it’s not crowded—a relief in Florence.

The museum is housed in the former Dominican Monastery (called the Convento di San Marco) where Fra’ Angelico lived as a monk from 1436 to 1455 and painted his stunning frescoes.

Wander down the long corridor flanked on either side by the monk’s cells and stop at each cell to view Fra’ Angelico’s frescoes. I love the way he painted angel wings—very art deco-looking and colorful.

A fresco depicting the Annunciation by Fra Angelico. The image shows the Archangel Gabriel, with golden wings and a pink robe, addressing the Virgin Mary, who is seated and holding a book, within an arched architectural setting. — *Annunciation* by Fra Angelico in Cell 3: Public Domain

The museum contains numerous frescoes by Fra’ Angelico, including the magnificent fresco in the Chapter House and his famous version of the Annunciation located at the top of the stairs leading to the cells. As I mentioned, I’m partial to Annunciations, and Fra’ Angelico’s version is one of the best.

Savonarola: A Burning Tale

You can also peek into the cell once occupied by the infamous Savonarola, who preached vociferously against greed and luxury and denounced clerical corruption, despotic rule, and the exploitation of the poor.

Unfortunately for Savonarola, he went too far with his well-intended but over-the-top spectacles, including his Bonfires of the Vanities, and ended up hanged and burned in 1498.

Oops.

Brancacci Chapel

The attraction at the lovely Brancacci Chapel across the Arno in a quieter and less touristy area of Florence are the gorgeous frescoes by Masaccio and Masolino. The Chapel is located away from the tourist hordes and requires a pleasantly long walk through a Florentine neighborhood in which people actually live.

I stopped for lunch at a café with three tiny tables perched on the edge of the sidewalk and enjoyed being the only tourist in the vicinity.

I was entertained watching a group of well-heeled, impeccably dressed Florentine businessmen lunching nearby. Each man looked like he’d stepped straight out of one of the Renaissance frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel.

Substitute business suits for tights and cloaks and not much has changed.

Fresco of biblical figures gathered in a public square, with medieval architecture in the background. The figures are interacting with a beggar on the left and people seated on the right. — *The Healing of Tabitha* by Masolino at the Brancacci Chapel: Public Domain

Admission to the Brancacci Chapel is limited so purchase your tickets in advance. Tickets from this site let you skip the line, and provide a video guide.

You’ll be struck by the vivid colors in the Masaccio and Masolino frescoes commissioned in 1424. The Expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise is especially evocative.

Other Suggestions for Florence

Palazzo Davanzati

Tour this medieval palazzo to discover what life was like for wealthy people in the early Renaissance. I had a great visit even though the guided tour was in Italian.

It didn’t matter; I could still get a good idea of how people lived.

A highlight is the painted walls in many of the rooms. When I was writing my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, I often envisioned the layout of the rooms in the Palazzo Davanzati as I wrote.

Here’s an option for a private guided tour of the Palazzo Davanzati, which would be well worth your time if you are interested in how rich people lived seven hundred-odd years ago.

Boboli Gardens

Treat yourself to a refreshing walk through these beautiful gardens with spectacular views over Florence and the Tuscan countryside.

When it’s hot (as it often is in the summer), do yourself a favor and escape the crush of tour groups in the center of the city and take a taxi across the Arno to the Boboli Gardens.

Florence overflows with interesting museums and churches and artwork to keep you busy for days.

And don’t forget shopping! Florence is the place in Tuscany to buy leather goods (although they can be cheaper in Siena but without as much choice).

Tours in Florence

Here are some Get Your Guide tour options in Florence.

Villa Demidoff – Outside Florence

In the gardens of the Villa Demidoff in Pratolino, about ten kilometers north of Florence in the beautiful Tuscan countryside, you can visit the aptly named Colossus. A seated figure that appears to be half rock, half man broods on an outcropping above a pond.

I adore this statue!

It’s just so darned unexpected. We visited a hot summer’s day and were captivated. The 35-foot tall Colossus is a colossal (ha!) statue created in the late 1500s by the Italian sculptor Giambologna.

The Appennine Colossus, a large stone sculpture of a mythical figure crouching with a flowing beard, surrounded by lush greenery in the gardens of Villa Demidoff in Tuscany. — *Colossus* at the Villa Demidoff

Despite his size, Colossus looks quite melancholy, as if he wished he could rise from the rocks keeping him captive and clomp off to a quiet grove where no one would take selfies with him.

Inside Colossus are various chambers.

Other Sites in the Gardens

The gardens are home to several more interesting features, including the hexagonal Chapel of Buontalenti, a fantastic dragon sculpture behind Colossus, the Cupid’s grotto, and the fountain of Jupiter.

The park is open every weekend from April to October, and admission is free. Before you go, check opening times on the park website.

For a good day out, rent a car and drive north to enjoy the park and the surrounding area, then have dinner in Fiesole while watching the sun set over Florence in the valley below.

You can also take a bus to Pratolino: catch the ATAF bus #25A from Piazza San Marco – the “A” is important. SITA also offers service to Pratolino from the main stop in SMN Piazza Stazione and CAP, with stops on Via Nazionale in Florence.

Art Masterpieces in Siena

Hands down, Siena is my favorite city in Tuscany. I never tire of wandering its narrow streets and then emerging, dazzled by the sun, into the Piazza del Campo—or Il Campo.

Called the most beautiful living room in Italy, Il Campo takes my breath away every time.

Campo in Siena at sunset — The breathtaking Campo

The first time I went to Siena by myself, I was so overcome with emotion by finally making it to the Campo, where several important scenes in my novel The Towers of Tuscany take place, that I dropped to my knees, lay down on my back, and took a selfie.

Carol Cram lying on a patterned brick surface--the Campo in Siena, smiling at the camera, with sunlight casting shadows on the historic herringbone-patterned pavement. — Relaxing on the 14th-century bricks of the Campo in Siena

Fortunately, no one batted an eye. Several people were doing the same, their backs warmed by bricks laid in the 1330s, not long before the Black Death carried away half of the medieval city’s population.

Siena is very compact, which is a good thing because the only way to get around is by walking. Fortunately, you can stroll between the two major sites–the cathedral and the palazzo publicco in just a few minutes. Use the map below to orient yourself.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

Piccolomini Library in the Cathedral

I single out the Piccolomini Library as one of two must-see masterpieces in Siena, but really, the entire cathedral (also known as the Duomo) is worth a half-day of your touring time.

You can skip the line by buying your tickets ahead. Your ticket is also good for the baptistery, crypt, and the Opera museum—all must-sees.

The exterior of the Siena Cathedral with its Gothic facade, intricate carvings, a large rose window, and the towering striped bell tower under a dramatic sky. — Cathedral Square and Duomo

Cathedral of Siena

A superb example of the Gothic Roman style in Italy, the Cathedral (the Duomo) is full of treasures. Marvel at the Duomo’s indoor and outdoor alternating stripes in white and greenish-black marble.

Black and white are the symbolic colors of Siena.

Unlike the sparse interiors of some cathedrals in Italy, the interior of the Duomo is fantastically decorated.

Carol Cram standing in front of the Siena Cathedral with its black-and-white striped bell tower, dome, and cityscape of Siena visible in the background. — Overlooking the Duomo

Look for the statue of St. John the Baptist by Donatello to the right after the Piccolomini Library, the rose window by Duccio di Buoninsegna, and the marble pulpit by Nicola Pisano, along with many gorgeous frescoes.

One of the most beautiful parts of the cathedral is its floor. You can spend hours wandering around the huge mosaics to “read” the stories.

The fifty-six etched and inlaid marble panels were designed between 1369 and 1547 by forty leading artists.

Piccolomini Library

And then there’s the Piccolomini Library itself. This place was a surprise to me. I hadn’t heard of it and so was in for a treat when I entered and had the breath knocked out of me (figuratively speaking).

The library is dedicated to Enea Silvio Piccolomini, an immensely powerful man in the mid 1400s who was elected Pope Pius II in 1458.

The big draw in the library are the frescoes by Pinturicchio.

Each of the ten scenes representing important stages in the life of Pope Pius II is exquisitely painted. The colors, perspective, figures, and backgrounds are incredibly detailed and evocative of their time. I was mesmerized.

Maestà Altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna

While you’re hanging around the Duomo, don’t miss the Opera museum (it’s part of your ticket) so you can admire the Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna that was commissioned by the cathedral in 1311.

I like the altarpiece because it’s gorgeous and because it makes a cameo appearance in my novel, The Towers of Tuscany.

A colorful religious painting depicting the Virgin Mary seated with baby Jesus, surrounded by saints and angels, all framed by intricate golden details and smaller portraits of religious figures. — Central panel of the Maestà, 1308–1311, by Duccio di Buoninsegna. Museo dell’Opera metropolitana del Duomo, Italy

Palazzo Pubblico

You can’t miss the Palazzo Pubblico in Il Campo. The much-photographed red brick palazzo that looks like a child’s drawing of a castle has become one of the most recognized views in Siena. I’ve taken my share of photos of it and the adjacent Torre Mangia.

The Palazzo Pubblico dates from the early 14th century and played an important role in ensuring Siena enjoyed relative peace from the late 13th century to 1355.

While you tour the Museo Civico, read about the “Government of the Nine”, the system of government that consisted of nine representatives of the people elected from the middle class and not from the noble families. This relatively democratic form of government was responsible for commissioning many civic works of art in the first half of the 14th century.

Museo Civico – Torre Mangia

The Museo Civico is located on the first floor of the Palazzo Pubblico, which still functions as Siena’s city hall.

Enter the courtyard called the Cortile del Podestà to access the Museo Civico and, if you’re feeling energetic, climb the 400 steps to the top of the Torre Mangia.

The view is spectacular, but the narrow staircase is claustrophobic and, in the summer, very hot. I’ve climbed the Torre Mangia once and do not feel the need to do so again.

Frescoes in Sala del Mappamondo

There are plenty of interesting things to look at in the Museo Civico, but the big draw are the frescoes by Simone Martini and Ambrogio Lorenzetti.

The two large frescoes by Simone Martini are located in the massive hall called Sala del Mappamondo. You can’t miss it. To your left as you enter the hall is the Maestà by Simone Martini. The gorgeous fresco shows the Madonna seated on a throne with the Child and surrounded by angels and saints. Note all the haloes!

A large fresco painting featuring the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus, seated on a throne and surrounded by saints, angels, and other religious figures in a richly decorated frame. — *Maestà* by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico: Public Domai

Turn around and at the other end of the hall you’ll see the fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano, a general on his horse with the castles he just conquered in the distance. You’ll see reproductions of this piece in a lot of souvenir shops.

I love how Guidoriccio and his horse are wearing the same ensemble. Very stylish.

A medieval fresco showing a knight on horseback in elaborate armor, set against a backdrop of rolling hills, castles, and a fortified city. — Fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain

Frescoes in the Sala dei Nove

Now walk into the Sala dei Nove—the Hall of the Nine—to see Siena’s most famous masterpiece: the fresco cycle called Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti.

You’ll get a sore neck looking up at the three wall-size frescoes, famous because they’re interesting to look at and because they depict secular subjects instead of religious ones—a rarity at the time (1340s).

I love the girls dancing in the Good Government fresco (pictured below). Take a seat and enjoy gazing up at the frescoes. Whenever I’ve been to the Sala dei Novel, I’ve been pretty much alone.

Although famous, these frescoes aren’t that famous which means you’re likely able to enjoy them crowd-free.

A medieval fresco by Ambrogio Lorenzetti depicting a bustling city scene with buildings, people, horses, and vibrant daily life. — *Allegory of Good and Bad Government* by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Pubblico: Public Domain

Other Suggestions for Siena

Siena is worth at least two days of your time, although people often squeeze it in as an afternoon trip from Florence. Please don’t do that!

Compared to overcrowded Florence, this wonderful small city is a medieval treat. Make room in your itinerary for a proper visit so you have ample time to get to know this delightful city. You won’t find many big-ticket sites, but that’s not the point of Siena.

Here are some options for touring Siena and other nearby locations:

And when you’re not enjoying the art, spend time wandering the back streets of Siena.

Enjoy a cappuccino in one of the cafés overlooking the Campo and buy yourself a leather purse or two. They are far more reasonably priced here than in Florence. My collection is growing!

Art Masterpieces in San Gimignano

San Gimignano is overrun with tourists and crammed with tacky tourist shops. And yet I love it!

Every time we visit Tuscany, we stay for a few days in the vicinity of San Gimignano. We usually spend the day either touring around the countryside or staying put in our hotel to write (me) and draw (Gregg).

The skyline of San Gimignano, with multiple medieval stone towers and bell towers rising above the terracotta rooftops, framed by trees and a clear blue sky. — San Gimignano

Then, towards the end of the afternoon when the parking lots surrounding Gimignano start to empty, we venture forth.

By 4 or 5 pm, the tour busses have lumbered off, the merchants are standing outside their shops taking a much-needed break, the hot streets are shaded by the towers, and the whole town seems to exhale with relief.

Stroll virtually deserted side streets in search of art and food (in that order). For a small hill town, San Gimignano punches above its weight in excellent restaurants.

You’ll see a lot of art in San Gimignano, but don’t miss these two sites which fortunately are close to each other:

Palazzo Comunale in the Civic Museum

Located next to the Duomo, the Civic Museum also includes the Torre Grossa—the tallest of San Gimignano’s seventeen towers and the only one you can climb.

I have climbed it, and it’s worth doing, but the real draw are the frescoes in the chamber of the Podestà in the Palazzo Comunale (which also has other good art to enjoy).

A panoramic view of San Gimignano’s historic skyline, with its famous stone towers rising above the red-tiled rooftops, surrounded by green countryside. — View from the top of the Torre Grossa in San Gimignano

Snares of Love

The series of frescoes is called the “snares of love”, painted by Memmo di Filippucio between 1303 to 1310.

Scenes show both profane love and scenes from marriage. I love the secular nature of these frescoes, especially the one where the young married couple share a bathtub.

A medieval fresco depicting two people sitting in a large wooden tub, one with a head covering, set against a background of rich red and gold fabric. — One of the frescoes in the Palazzo Comunale Civic Museum in San Gimignano

Frescoes in the Duomo of San Gimignano

The Duomo also contains an amazing number and variety of frescoes. Every wall on both sides of the nave is filled with frescoes, most dating from the 1300s.

The vivid colors are original; the frescoes have never required restoration.

A medieval fresco showing a lavish feast with two crowned figures at a banquet table, surrounded by servants, musicians, and a depiction of a heavenly figure above. — Fresco in the Duomo at San Gimignano by Bartolo di Fredi [CC BY-SA]

Get the audio guide and walk slowly around the frescoes, picking out scene after scene from the Old and New Testaments. Even if you’re not into Bible stories, you can’t help but be entranced by these frescoes. I enjoy studying the clothing and the facial expressions for inspiration.

Pick up a ticket to the Museum of Sacred Art in the Duomo that includes an audio guide from this link.

Other Suggestions for San Gimignano

Climb to the top of the ruined Fortezza (fortress) at the highest point in San Gimignano to enjoy spectacular views over the countryside.

Even when the main street is heaving with sweaty tourists, the Fortezza is usually virtually empty.

San Gimignano 1300

One of my favorite museums in San Gimignano is San Gimignano 1300, located in a side street close to the Piazzale Comunale.

Here you’ll view a scale model of San Gimignano as it appeared in 1300.

A detailed miniature model showcasing the medieval town of San Gimignano, with tall stone towers and terracotta-roofed buildings closely packed together.

You may also be able to pick up a copy of The Towers of Tuscany at San Gimignano 1300. I first visited the exhibit back in 2011 when I was researching my novel, and have returned many times since.

Grosseto – Il Giardino dei Tarocchi

Fancy a break from old style art (much as we love it)? Then get a fabulous modern art fix at The Tarot Garden (Il Giardino dei Tarocchi).

Here is where you’ll see a stunning collection of whimsical sculptures by modern artist Niki Saint Phalle. The sculptures are based on the Tarot cards and are a must-see if you’re looking for something far off the beaten path.

And the sculptures are a nice break from the medieval and Renaissance masterpieces that make up most of the art in Tuscany.

A whimsical sculpture from the Tarot Garden, representing a crescent moon forming a face, balanced atop a red figure resembling a lobster, supported by two animal-like figures on a multicolored base surrounded by greenery.

A vibrant mosaic sculpture of a fantastical figure from the Tarot Garden, featuring colorful, mirror-covered legs, outstretched arms, and a sun-like face, set amidst lush greenery under a bright blue sky.

We spent a full hour wandering around the gardens on a hot afternoon in September. Although I took tons of photographs, they don’t do the sculptures justice. You have to visit the gardens and touch the sculptures, walk inside them, and sit on them to fully appreciate them.

When you go, check the website for the current opening hours. Usually, the gardens are open daily from April 1 to October 15 from 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm. In the winter, the gardens are open only on the first Saturday of the month from 9 am to 1 pm.

Where to Stay in Tuscany

I don’t think I’ve ever stayed in a sub-standard place in Tuscany. You are spoiled for choice! While prices will not be low if you’re looking for comfort and convenience (my two must-haves!), you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous views, friendly proprietors and il dolce vita!

Here are four of my favorite places I’ve stayed around Tuscany:

Sant’Antonio Country Resort near Montelpulciano: Fantastic place to kick back and relax. Stay for a week! I write a whole post about my experience staying there.
Agriturismo Casanova di Pescille near San Gimignano: You’ll need a car, but this place (and a handful more in the area) is just about perfect.
Serristori Palace Reside n ce in Florence: this spacious apartment is right on the river and about a ten minute walk into the center of Florence. Highly recommended.
I Merli di Ada in Siena: this place is delightful! It’s very centrally located with lovely hosts and a comfy and spacious room.

Summary

My list of must-see art masterpieces barely scratches the surface of all the wonderful art you can enjoy when you slow down and take time to get to know Tuscany in all its glory.

Plan to spend two weeks enjoying the many beautiful towns and villages: Montalcino, Montepulciano, Lucca, Pisa, Volterra…the list goes on. Take a walking holiday or book into an agritourism property and settle in for a week of great food and long, warm days.

For more information about traveling in Tuscany see Exploring Tuscany, Umbria and La Dolce Vita and Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Ciao!

Novels Set in Spain Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Arts & Culture, Artsy Novels, Destinations, Spain Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 18th, 2025 at 01:08 am

Read novels set in Spain to get you excited about your trip or, even better, to read while you’re there.

Lots of authors have been inspired to set novels in Spain, many of which revolve around art.

Each of the novels listed in this post relates in some way to the arts–from flamenco to Cervantes to Spanish Baroque art and more.

Pinterest graphic with the text compelling novels set in spain perfect for the artsy traveler. Above the text is a picture of the playa major in Madrid and below is a picture of flamenco dangers.

The Return by Victoria Hislop

In the heart of Granada, a family witnesses the worst horrors of the Spanish Civil War. Divided by politics and tragedy, everyone must choose a side, fighting a personal battle as Spain tears itself apart. With wonderful scenes featuring flamenco, this novel is a must-read for Spain bound travelers.

Dulcinea by Ana Veciana-Suarez

Dulcinea is a feminist reimagining of Cervantes’s Dolça, the fictional muse behind Don Quixote. The daughter of a wealthy merchant, young Dolça Llull Prat is besotted with the dashing, bootstrapping Miguel Cervantes from their first meeting. When Miguel renders her as the lowly Dulcinea in his great Quixote, revealing their association, he commits an unforgivable offense, and their decades-long affinity is severed—until he reaches out to her one last time.

The Master of the Prado by Javier Sierra

Presented as a fictionalized autobiography, The Master of the Prado begins in Madrid in 1990, when Sierra encounters a mysterious stranger named Luis Fovel within the halls of the Prado. Fovel takes him on a whirlwind tour and promises to uncover startling secrets hidden in the museum’s masterpieces—secrets that open up a whole new world to Sierra.

The Lady with the Dark Hair by Erin Bartels

This a dual-time novel about artists and identity. Esther Markstrom and her artist mother have always been proud of their ancestor, painter Francisco Vella. They even run a small museum and gallery dedicated to raising awareness of his scandalously underappreciated work. But when Esther reconnects with her former art history professor, she finds her once-solid family history on shaky ground as questions arise about Vella’s greatest work–a portrait entitled The Lady with the Dark Hair.

Attribution by Linda Moore

When art historian Cate Adamson discovers a hidden painting, possibly a Baroque masterpiece, she risks her career, financial disaster, and further alienation from her family and flees to Spain with the painting to consult art experts.

The Girl from Oto by Amy Maroney

Following her birth 1500, Renaissance-era artist Mira is raised in a Pyrenees convent believing she is an orphan until she learns the terrible truth about her true origins, and must determine whether she possesses the strength to face those who would wish her harm.

The Lines Between Us by Rebecca D’Harlingue

Listed in the Literature category on Art In Fiction, The Lines Between Us is a dual-time book that takes place in Madrid in 1661 and Missouri in 1992. The connection between the two eras leads Rachel in 1992 to try healing the wounds caused by her mother’s lifelong reticence.

The Spanish Bow by Andromeda Romano-Lax

The bequest of a cello bow sets Feliu on the path to becoming a musician, an unlikely destiny given his beginnings in a dusty Catalonian village. When he is forced to flee to anarchist Barcelona, his education in music, life, and politics begins.

The Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafón

Barcelona, 1945: A city slowly heals in the aftermath of the Spanish Civil War, and Daniel, an antiquarian book dealer’s son who mourns his mother’s death, finds comfort in a mysterious book entitled The Shadow of the Wind, by one Julián Carax. But when he sets out to find the author’s other works, he makes a shocking discovery: someone has been systematically destroying every copy of every book Carax has written.

Want more novels set in Spain? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.

Guidebooks About Spain

My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on Spain. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.

Tours Around Spain

Visit some of the destinations mentioned in the featured novel. This 5-day tour that starts in Madrid, takes you to Cordoba, Seville, Granada, and Toledo.

Conclusion

Have you read a novel set in Spain, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Check out these posts that provide suggestions for what to read in other European countries:

Novels Set in Netherlands Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Arts & Culture, Artsy Novels, Destinations, Netherlands Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:42 pm

Read novels set in the Netherlands both to help get you in the mood for traveling and to enjoy when you’re there.

Each of the novels listed in this post relates in some way to the arts–from Rembrandt to Vermeer to the depiction of tulips in Golden Age Holland.

Reading any one of these novels will help set the scene for your travels in one of my favorite European countries!

Pinterest graphic with the text compelling novels set in Netherlands perfect for the artsy traveler above a field of colorful tulips

The Anatomy Lesson by Nina Siegal

The Anatomy Lesson takes readers through a single day in Golden Age Amsterdam when the city is preparing for the Winter Festival: executions, followed by a public dissection, and then a feast and torch parade through the city.

Girl with a Pearl Earring by Tracy Chevalier

History and fiction merge seamlessly in a novel about artistic vision and sensual awakening set in 1664 in Delft. Young Griet goes to work in the household of the great painter Johannes Vermeer and is immortalized in canvas and paint.

A Light of Her Own by Carrie Callaghan

This historical biographical novel tells the story of Judith Leyster, a Dutch painter from the 17th century whose work was lost to history until 1893. The novel richly weaves the journey of a woman of ambition set against the backdrop of Rembrandt and an uncompromising religion.

The Rembrandt Secret by Alex Connor

Inspired by real events in the artist’s life, The Rembrandt Secret is an historical thriller that follows a deadly serial killer who is wreaking havoc across London and New York.

The Vermeer Deception by Jennifer S. Alderson

Book 4 in Jennifer S. Alderson’s Zelda Richardson Mystery series revolves around the discovery of a missing portrait by Johannes Vermeer that results in a dangerous game of cat-and-mouse with unethical art collectors, unscrupulous dealers, and an all-too-real killer.

Tulip Fever by Deborah Moggach

Seventeenth-century Amsterdam is a city in the grip of tulip fever. To celebrate growing wealthy from this exotic new flower, a merchant commissions a gifted young artist to paint him with his beautiful bride. But as the portrait grows, so does the passion between his wife and the painter; and ambitions, desires, and dreams breed an intricate deception and a reckless gamble.

The Lost Diaries of Frans Hals by Michael Kernan

When ancient notebooks surface in a Long Island garage, Peter Van Overloop, a Columbia grad student, sets about translating them, and finds himself immersed in the life and times of the Dutch painter Frans Hals. The notebooks appear to be Hal’s diaries, and they paint a gripping portrait of a man living in the age of Rembrandt and Descartes, and bursting with a lust for the world surrounding him.

The Winter Dress by Lauren Chater

Textiles historian Jo Baaker returns to the Dutch island where she was born, to investigate the provenance of a valuable 17th-century silk dress retrieved from a sunken shipwreck. Her research leads her to Anna Tesseltje, a poor Amsterdam laundress who served on the fringes of the Dutch court. But how did Anna come to possess such a precious dress?

The Map Colorist by Rebecca D’Harlingue

In 1660, Amsterdam is the trading and map-printing capital of the world. Anneke van Brug is one of the colorists paid to enhance black-and-white maps for a growing number of collectors. But Anneke is not content to simply embellish the work of others; she longs to create maps of her own.

Still Life by Dodie Bishop

In this 17th-century historical romance, gifted artist Clara Peeters has to make sacrifices and risk everything to pursue her craft. Together with fellow pupil Nico, the two find themselves surrounded by dangerous secrets and powerful enemies. But in the face of so much past pain, can something as fragile as love survive?

Want more novels set in the Netherlands? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.

Guidebooks About the Netherlands

My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on the Netherlands. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.

Tours Around the Netherlands

While reading one of my featured novels, you may want to explore more of the Netherlands on a bus tour. On this tour that starts and ends in Amsterdam, you’ll see traditional 17th-century houses and windmills in the Dutch countryside and visit Zaanse Schans, Volendam, Edam, and Marken.

Conclusion

Have you read a novel set in the Netherlands, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Check out these posts that provide suggestions for what to read in other European countries:

Novels Set in England Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Arts & Culture, Artsy Novels, Destinations, England Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:31 pm

Read novels set in England to get you excited about your trip or, even better, to read while you’re there. Numerous authors have been inspired to set novels in England, particularly novels inspired by England’s rich literary heritage from Shakespeare to Jane Austen to Oscar Wilde to Agatha Christie.

And yes, one of the novels set in England is mine! T he Muse of Fire is my third novel, and it’s set in early 19th Century London and inspired by real events.

Graphic for Pinterest showing the text "Compelling Novels Set in England Perfect for the Artsy Traveler" over a picture of a red double-decker bus crossing a bridge in front of London's Big Ben.

The Wildes by Louis Bayard

Oscar Wilde’s wife and two sons come out from the shadows of history in this emotional journey of a family moving from the Italian countryside to the trenches of WWI as they grapple with their famous father’s legacy.

From the Ground Up by Katherine J. Scott

Listed in the Architecture category on Art In Fiction, From the Ground Up takes place in Elizabethan England and is Katherine J. Scott’s first Robert Smythson Mystery.

A Change of Location by Margaret Porter

In this contemporary romance, Hanna Ballard is a film location manager involved in pre-production for a film set in the Somerset countryside when she becomes involved with the local landowner.

The British Booksellers by Kristy Cambron

From deep in the trenches of the Great War to the storied English countryside and the devastating Coventry Blitz of World War II, The British Booksellers explores the unbreakable bonds that unite us through love, loss, and the enduring solace that can be found between the pages of a book.

The Ghost Theatre by Mat Osman

This wild and hallucinatory reimagining of Elizabethan London is listed in the Theater category on Art In Fiction and is a fever-dream full of prophecy and anarchy, gutter rats and bird gods that takes the reader on a wild ride from the rooftops of Elizabethan London to its dark underbelly.

Bloomsbury Girls by Natalie Jenner

This compelling and heartwarming story is set in post-war London and revolves around three women working at Bloomsbury Books, an old-fashioned new and rare bookstore that has persisted and resisted change for a hundred years. As the women interact with various literary figures of the time–Daphne Du Maurier, Ellen Doubleday, Sonia Blair (widow of George Orwell), Samuel Beckett, Peggy Guggenheim, and others–they plot out a future that is richer and more rewarding than anything society will allow.

The Queens of Crime by Marie Benedict

Set in London in 1930, the five greatest women crime writers have banded together to form a secret society with a single goal: to show they are no longer willing to be treated as second class citizens by their male counterparts in the legendary Detection Club. Led by the formidable Dorothy L. Sayers, the group includes Agatha Christie, Ngaio Marsh, Margery Allingham and Baroness Emma Orczy–the Queens of Crime.

The Last Heir to Blackwood Library by Hester Fox

Set in the 1920s, The Last Heir to Blackwood Library is described as a love letter to books. It’s a compelling rags-to-riches tale laced with betrayal and intrigue with a magnificent library and an enigmatic manuscript at its center.

The Muse of Fire by Carol M. Cram

Set in London in 1808-09, The Muse of Fire takes readers behind the scenes at Covent Garden theater where the intrigue, romance, and betrayal offstage rivals the drama in the plays performed onstage.

Hamnet & Judith by Maggie O’Farrell

This telling of the little-known story behind Shakespeare’s most enigmatic play is a luminous portrait of a marriage and the devastating loss of a beloved child.

Want more novels set in England? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.

Guidebooks About England

My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on England. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.

Tours Around England

I highly recommend a tour around Southwest England to give you a good sense of the beautiful English countryside described in some of my featured novels. This tour from Bristol visits many of the same locations I went to on the 4-day tour I took, including Minack Theatre, Durdle Door, Stonehenge, and St Ives.

Conclusion

Have you read any arts-inspired novels set in England? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Check out these posts containing suggestions for what to read in other European countries:

Novels Set in Germany Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Arts & Culture, Artsy Novels, Destinations, Germany Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:44 pm

Read novels set in Germany to get you excited about your trip or, even better, to read while you’re there. Numerous authors have been inspired to set novels in Germany–and not all of them are World War II novels set in Germany (although some are).

Each of the novels listed in this post relates in some way to the arts–from glassblowing to a lost Bach manuscript to a medieval cathedral, and more.

And if you can’t find what you’re looking for here, go to my sister site Art In Fiction and search for Germany or a related subject, and see what comes up.

A graphic for Pinterest containing the text "Compelling Novels Set in Germany Perfect for the Artsy Traveler" and including two pictures of buildings in Berlin.

The Glassblower by Petra Durst-Benning

This wonderful novel is the first in Petra Durst-Benning’s Glassblower Trilogy. It tells the story of three sisters in 19th century Germany who must learn the art of glass-blowing that has traditionally been done only by men so they can take care of themselves in a harsh world.

And After the Fire by Lauren Belfer

This dual-time novel spans over two hundred years from Berlin in the 18th century through the Holocaust to New York in contemporary times to tell the story of a lost Bach manuscript with a disturbing message. The novel is inspired by historical events.

The Porcelain Maker by Sarah Freethy

This dual-time debut novel by Sarah Freethy is inspired by an actual porcelain factory in Dachau. In Germany in 1929, two young artists begin a whirlwind romance until Max is arrested and sent to Dachau. Desperate to save her lover, Bettina risks everything to rescue him and escape Germany.

The Novelist from Berlin by V. S. Alexander

The Novelist from Berlin is inspired by the mysterious true story of Irmgard Keun, a novelist who defied all the rules. In 1920s Germany, even a woman as resourceful and intelligent as Niki Rittenhaus needs alliances in order to survive. She publishes her first novel, The Berlin Woman under a pseudonym to great success. But anonymity cannot last and soon she is in great danger.

Cathedral by Ben Hopkins

This immersive read is a remarkable feat of imagination. At the heart of the novel is the Cathedral and the story of its design and construction in the 13th and 14th centuries in the Rhineland town of Hagenburg unites a vast array of memorable characters whose fortunes are intertwined with the shifting political factions and economic interests vying for supremacy.

The Wild Girl by Kate Forsyth

One of six sisters, Dortchen Wild lives in the small German kingdom of Hesse-Cassel in the early 19th century. She finds herself irresistibly attracted to the boy next door, the handsome but very poor fairy tale scholar Wilhelm Grimm. As Dortchen tells Wilhelm some of the most powerful and compelling stories which will one day become his and Jacob’s renowned fairy tale collection, their love grows.

The Magician by Colm Tóibín

In The Magician (2021), Colm Tóibín captures the profound personal conflict of the very public life of German novelist Thomas Mann.
When the Great War breaks out in 1914 Thomas Mann, like so many of his fellow countrymen, is fired up with patriotism. But his flawed vision will form the beginning of a dark and complex relationship with his homeland, and see the start of great conflict within his own brilliant and troubled family.

The Weather in Berlin by Ward Just

This is a novel of Americans abroad. When a renowned Hollywood director travels to post-Wall Germany to spark his genius, he is unexpectedly reunited with an actress who mysteriously disappeared from the set of his movie thirty years earlier. Masterly and atmospheric, The Weather in Berlin explores the subtleties of artistic inspiration, the nature of memory, and the pull of the past.

Marlene by C. W. Gortner

Raised in genteel poverty after the World War I, Maria Magdalena Dietrich dreams of a career on the stage. This historical biographical novels follows the beautiful, desirous Marlene from Germany to America and back to Germany.

Want more novels set in Germany ? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.

Guidebooks About Germany

My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on Austria. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.

Tours Around Germany

While you’re reading a novel set in Germany, why not take a tour! This tour from Munich to the iconic castles of Ludwig II, King of Bavaria includes fairytale Neuschwanstein, intimate Linderhof and scenic Hohenschwangau.

Conclusion

Have you read a novel set in Germany, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Check out these posts that provide suggestions for what to read in other European countries:

Eiffel Tower: Should You Soar to the Summit?

Destinations, Europe, France Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:34 pm

Riding to the summit of the Eiffel Tower—or even to the second level—has long been a Paris must-do. Millions flock to the iconic monument every year to stand in long lines, ride an elevator up one of the sturdy pylons, and then look at the view.

But should you bother? Especially if your time in Paris is limited, should you spend a half day braving the crowds to ride an elevator or two (or even three) to see a view?

Read on for my recommendations about putting the Eiffel Tower on our must-see list while touring Paris.

A poster featuring the Eiffel Tower in daylight with vibrant green gardens and a bold headline asking, "Should You Soar to the Top of the Eiffel Tower in Paris?"

Going Up the Eiffel Tower in Paris, France

Well, it’s the Eiffel Tower and you’ve traveled a long way to see it. And after all, it’s the most famous architectural feature of the Paris skyline. Going up the Eiffel Tower is almost a rite of passage for the first-time visitor to Paris.

But do you really need to go up it?

Frankly, I say forget the elevator ride and just admire the tower from a distance. Take pictures of it from the Trocadero on the opposite side of the Seine, or from the middle of one of the bridges.

A classic view of the Eiffel Tower taken from the Trocadéro gardens, with fountains, greenery, and a bright blue sky with fluffy clouds.

Stay well away from the crowds and enjoy seeing the tower pop up every now and again as you tour Paris. There are so many amazing things to see in this city that spending half a day waiting in line (and you’ll likely wait in line even if you buy tickets in advance or take a tour) seems like such a waste of time.

I know—blasphemy—but really, if you don’t like crowds, can live without an elevator ride, and can find better things to spend the 25+ euros on (like lunch), then I say skip the Eiffel Tower.

What to Know If You Decide to Go Up the Eiffel Tower

That said, I totally get why going up the Eiffel Tower is appealing. Over the years, I’ve gone up the tower at least five times, and each time was more crowded than the time before.

My most recent visit was in spring 2024—and wow! I couldn’t believe the size of the crowds as well as how little there was to do once I reached the second level and circumnavigated the tower to view Paris from all directions.

Go Up the Eiffel Tower in the Evening

Of my five visits, my favorite was the one I took in the evening a few years ago. The crowds were thin and the view over the sparkling lights of Paris magical.

A breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower illuminated against the night sky, with reflections in the nearby Seine River.

If you can manage to find a time when the Eiffel Tower is not crowded then sure, take a ride up to at least the second level.

Purchase Tickets in Advance

Whenever you decide to go, buy your ticket well in advance. You’ll probably still have to queue, but not for as long as you would without a ticket. Also, if you don’t get your ticket in advance, you risk not being able to get in at all if the tower is at capacity.

Here’s the official website for purchasing tickets to the Eiffel Tower.

Riding to the Tippy Top

Don’t be fooled by tours that say they include the summit. They may not, so you really need to double-check. If you have your heart set on going to the summit of the Eiffel Tower, then book your tickets on the official website as far in advance (up to three months) as you can. Spots book up really fast.

At the top, you’ll enjoy the highest view from two floors–one open-air and the other enclosed. You’ll also see a reconstruction of Gustave Eiffel’s office and a tableaux of wax models depicting Gustave Eiffel and his daughter Claire receiving the famous American inventor, Thomas Edison.

Should You Consider a Guided Tour?

On my most recent visit to the Eiffel Tower, I chose a guided tour because I (mistakenly as it turned out) thought it would take me to the very tippy top. It did not.

Basically, a guide takes you to a long line and waits with you while occasionally regaling you with facts and figures about the Eiffel Tower. At the second level, the guide bids you farewell and you’re on your own to enjoy the view.

Here’s a brief summary of my Eiffel Tower tour experience so you can decide for yourself if the 50+ Euro price tag is worth it.

My Tour of the Eiffel Tower

I arrive at the Eiffel Tower with moments to spare before the tour is to begin, only to discover I’m in the wrong place.

HINT: Double-check the meeting place for the tour; it likely is not at the entrance to the Eiffel Tower. In the case of the tour I took, the meeting place was a brisk ten-minute walk away.

A ground-level shot of the Eiffel Tower framed by trees, emphasizing its grandeur and architectural beauty.

I run to where the guide is supposed to be, arriving ten minutes late to find her waiting and not at all worried. After joining her and eight other people, I briskly retrace my steps back to the base of the Eiffel Tower where we wait a good thirty minutes, which is about ninety minutes less than the wait for people without tickets, to ride the elevator to the second stage.

I ask if we’re going to the top.

Non, Madame.

But it says in the tour description that we go to the top…

Non, Madame. Second level only.

Oh.

I resolve to enjoy myself and get my 50 euros worth (pretty much double the cost of a regular ticket). The guide’s commentary is interesting, although I’m the only person who listens to it. The other people on the tour are either not interested or don’t speak English, or both.

Some History of the Eiffel Tower

I’m working on a novel set in the late 1880s during the time when the Eiffel Tower was being constructed. The novel includes a character modeled after the brave souls who, in the frigid winter before the Eiffel Tower opened for the 1889 World Exposition, climbed higher and higher every day to bang rivets into a structure that at the time was a marvel of engineering (and still is). Two men lost their lives building the Eiffel Tower (although not my character).

The guide doesn’t tell me very much that I haven’t already read during my research about Gustave Eiffel and the history of his tower. Construction of the Eiffel Tower began in 1888 and finished in May 1889 just in time for the opening of the 1889 Paris Exposition that celebrated the 100th anniversary of the storming of the Bastille, which marked the beginning of the French Revolution. Over 32 million people attended, which is a lot of people in 1889!

If you’re looking for in-depth information about a site, you’re not likely to find it on a tour designed for the general public. You’d be better off connecting with an expert and arranging a private tour.

Riding Up to the Second Level

It takes about an hour to finally get up to the second level of the Eiffel Tower. The two elevators are crowded and hot, and the ride isn’t all that exciting. I snag a place by the window to snap photos and face away from the germs. If you are at all claustrophobic, you may wish to think twice about cramming yourself into the elevators to the first and then the second levels.

A photo taken from inside the Eiffel Tower's elevator, showing the iron lattice framework and the greenery of the Champ de Mars below.

At the Second Level

Once we arrive at the second level, our guide thanks us and returns to Earth, presumably to herd another group up the elevators.

I stroll around the four sides, snap some photos, and feel a bit deflated. The view from the second stage is fine but not particularly breathtaking, even on a sunny day.

An expansive aerial view of Paris, featuring Les Invalides and the Montparnasse Tower, framed by green parks and historic buildings. — View to the south from the Eiffel Tower

A sweeping view of Paris from above, capturing the Seine River, bridges, and iconic Parisian architecture under a partly cloudy sky. — View to the northeast from the Eiffel Tower

I do, however, enjoy snapping photos of the rest of the Eiffel Tower soaring up to the third level that I didn’t get to visit.

A dramatic upward perspective of the Eiffel Tower from the second level, showcasing its intricate ironwork against a clear blue sky.

After the Tour

After taking as many pictures as I can and circumnavigating the second level at least twice to get my money’s worth, I descend to the bottom and snap lots of photos in the beautiful golden light. The nearby gardens are particularly fetching.

A serene view of a lush garden with a pond surrounded by trees and bushes, under a bright blue sky with scattered clouds.

View from below the Eiffel Tower showcasing its intricate iron latticework structure against a bright blue sky, with sunlight streaming through the open arches.

A Paris Traffic Jam

With the sun starting to set, I go in search of a bus. I can’t find the right stop and finally admit defeat and hail a taxi. The traffic is practically gridlocked. I can probably walk back to where I’m staying near Boulevard Saint Michel faster. The driver entertains me with a lot of voluble French commentary about the shocking state of the circulation in Paris, the bicycles, the other cars, the stupid pedestrians, etc. As the fare creeps up over twenty euros (I have a 20-euro bill clutched in my hand), I reach for my wallet. He gestures for me to put it away.

Non, non, madame. Il est vignt.

He waves away the number on the meter as if to make it disappear. I gather he’s not going to charge me more than the twenty euros that I have ready to pay him because the traffic is so bad. That’s very kind of him!

Where Are the Rude Parisians?

My taxi driver drops me at my destination, cheerfully takes the twenty and wishes me a bonne journée. I’ve yet to meet the fabled rude Parisians who are supposedly abundant in Paris.

In my experience over many, many trips to Paris, the Parisians are almost uniformly helpful, friendly, and good-humored. They also frequently like to make jokes. The night before, the clerk at the supermarket, after being asked the way out, shakes his head and tells us gravely that there is no way out, and that we will be locked in and have to stay the night. He then laughs and leads us to the exit where he merrily scans our items while telling us all about his brother who is moving to Calgary.

Tours of the Eiffel Tower

If you’ve decided to go up the Eiffel Tower, you have two choices. Either purchase a tour to get some commentary along with your elevator ride or go it alone with tickets you’ve purchased in advance. While I can’t say the tour I took was worth the extra euros, it did give me the chance to talk about the Eiffel Tower with the guide and glean a few more useful bits of information for my research.

Here are some ticket and tour options offered by GetYourGuide:

Conclusion

I love the Eiffel Tower! It’s the symbol of Paris, and it’s beautiful and iconic and just so cool. I’m fascinated by how it was built, I love taking pictures of it, and I even include it on the cover of one of my novels (Love Among the Recipes). I’m writing a new novel featuring the Eiffel Tower at the beginning of its life. So yes, I think the Eiffel Tower is awesome!

But I also think that you’d not be missing a whole lot if you decided to skip waiting in long lines (even with a ticket and/or a tour) for what is essentially an elevator ride.

Illustration of the book cover for "Love Among the Recipes" by Carol M. Cram, featuring a basket with bread, cheese, and wine on top of a stack of cookbooks, with a blue background showing Paris landmarks, including the Eiffel Tower.

Spend your time touring some of the world’s best museums, enjoy a café crème at a sidewalk café, take a cruise on the Seine, snap pics of the Eiffel Tower to your heart’s content, and relax in Paris’s lovely parks (the Luxembourg Gardens is my fave).

Here are more posts about being an Artsy Traveler in Paris:

And for my take on touring another of Europe’s iconic sites, check out Should You Make the Climb to the Acropolis of Athens?