The Anne Frank House in Amsterdam attracts visitors from all over the world, and for good reason. A visit to the secret hiding place where Anne Frank and six other people hid for two years form the Nazis is both sobering and inspiring.
With authoritarianism on the rise in too many countries around the world, Anne’s ordeal and tragic end are more relevant than ever.
Before or after your visit to the Anne Frank House, give yourself a sightseeing break by taking a stroll into the Begijnhof (#3 on the map below). In this tranquil courtyard in the middle of bustling Amsterdam, you can “set a spell” and enjoy a calming break. It’s the perfect place to either prepare for your visit to Anne Frank House or to quietly recover.
In this post, I describe my visit to Anne Frank House and share photos of the Begijnhof on a breezy, sunny day in April.
Anne Frank House (#2 on the map above) is located on Prinsengracht Canal at Prinsengracht 263-267 in Amsterdam. For me, it’s about a twenty-minute easy walk from where I’m staying at the Clayton House Hotel American (4) on the Singelgracht.
The entrance to the museum is around the corner, at Westermarkt 20. Tickets cost €16 for adults.
Getting Tickets for Anne Frank House
You can only visit Anne Frank House with a ticket you’ve bought online from the official website. Every Tuesday at 10 am CET all tickets become available for a visit six weeks later.
When I went online to purchase my ticket six weeks before my visit, only a handful of spots were still available. This was likely because I live in the Pacific time zone and many hundreds of people were out of bed earlier than I was and snagged tickets on the day I needed them.
As it turned out, I got the date wrong, but more on that in a sec.
Entering Anne Frank House
At precisely ten minutes before the time I thought I’d booked, I arrive at Anne Frank’s house on Prinsengracht Canal in Amsterdam. I open my phone, check my eticket and discover, to my horror, that the date on the ticket is April 3 not April 8.
How did that happen? I’d marked the date when I could order tickets on my calendar months ago, and then somehow nabbed a 4 pm time slot on the wrong date.
Sigh.
Instead of turning away in defeat, I join the queue of people entering for the 3:45 slot and show my ticket to the attendant. With pleading eyes and my best I’m-a-stupid-tourist, self-deprecating smile, I tell him I got the date wrong.
He squints at my ticket, shakes his head, and then asks me how many people I am. I tell him one. He looks relieved and tells me to wait. He talks into his walkie talkie in rapid Dutch and looks concerned. Just as I am about to lose hope, he tells me to wait a bit longer while he scans in the rest of the people in the group.
After another hurried Dutch convo, he nods and says he’ll let me in. I thank him profusely, then enter the ground floor of the warehouse that houses the annex on the top floor where Anne and six other people lived for two years.
Previous Visit to Anne Frank House
I’ve visited the Anne Frank house only once before—in 1970 when I was fourteen years old and almost the same age as Anne. I remember being profoundly affected by the experience, which was my first contact with the horrors of war.
I’d read The Diary of Anne Frank the year before, and like most young girls at that time, I’d identified with Anne.
Navigating the Displays
The Anne Frank House provides the visitor with a thoughtfully organized experience. After checking my coat, I pick up an audio guide and am instructed to point it at a digital access point in the wall in every room I enter.
Along with about the dozen other visitors allowed in, I go into each room, pause to listen to the commentary and then move on.
With everyone in my group listening to their own audioguides, the visit is eerily quiet. Also, visitors are not allowed to take photos, which contributes to a more relaxed and respectful experience.
As I progress from room to room and floor to floor, the audio tour tells the heartbreaking story of Anne Frank and the other people in hiding including her father, Otto, her mother, and her sister, Margot; the people who helped the seven people survive in their hiding place for two years; and plenty of context about how Germany invaded the Netherlands and mandated the persecution of the Jews.
Learning Anne’s Story
The first thing that hits me as I start listening to Anne Frank’s story is that Anne was only two years younger than my mom. When she went into hiding in 1942, she was 13 years old when my mom, living halfway across the world in a small town in British Columbia, Canada, was 15.
My mother led a long and very productive life, dying at the age of 93 a few years ago, whereas young Anne died in 1944. The stark contrast between Anne’s life and my mom’s really hit home. Anne should have been able to live a long life like my mother had.
Progressing from Room to Room
The rooms are dimly lit and feature displays about life in Amsterdam at the beginning of the war and the ever more onerous constraints put on Jews as the Nazi occupation continued. Quotes from Anne’s writings are used in most of the commentaries.
Several displays chronicle the preparations that Anne’s father, Otto Frank, makes to take his family and the family of one of his employees into hiding.
The feeling as I progress through each room is one of increasing desperation and urgency. If not for Otto’s foresight and the help of people in his company, the Frank family would not have survived as long as it had.
Like so many Amsterdam houses, the building is tall. I climb several flights of steep stairs, pausing at each level to listen to more commentary.
Note that if you have mobility issues or trouble climbing steep stairs in very narrow stairwells, you may need to give Anne Frank House a miss.
Entering the Annex
Finally, I reach the bookcase that for two years hid the secret annex.
The commentary now stops so people can climb the last flight of steep stairs behind the bookcase to the handful of tiny rooms shared by seven people for two years.
The rooms are completely bare now and for a few moments, it’s tempting to think they aren’t that small. Then the photographs on the walls showing them furnished with cots and chairs and a table bring home just how terribly cramped life in these rooms must have been.
During the day, the inhabitants couldn’t talk above a whisper and had to walk very carefully to avoid being heard by people working in the warehouse on the floors below.
It’s sobering, to say the least.
Ending the Tour
After touring the rooms, I descend to view more displays about what happened to Anne and her family after the Gestapo discovered the annex and shipped everyone off to concentration camps.
Anne and her sister and mother died in Bergen-Belsen Concentration camp, with only Otto Frank surviving.
I learn that Anne’s diaries were found by one of the women who had helped them survive while in hiding. One of the displays shows the diary (or a facsimile more likely) with Anne’s handwriting.
In addition to describing the two-year ordeal, Anne wrote short stories and even started writing a novel. She wanted to be a writer and indeed is now celebrated as one of the Netherlands’ most famous authors.
Warning about Fradulent Ticket Providers
Here’s a warning on the Anne Frank House official website about fraudulent ticket providers:
Please note that there are fraudulent websites with URLs similar to the one used by the Anne Frank House. These sites are aimed at credit card fraud or the sale of invalid tickets. Tickets for the Anne Frank House can only be purchased through this website. Commercial parties offering Anne Frank House tours do not provide access to the Anne Frank House.
The best a commercial tour can do is take you around areas of Amsterdam on an Anne Frank walking tour. Here’s one from GetYourGuide. billed as an introspective walking tour through Anne Frank’s life. Explore the Jewish history of Amsterdam and the horrors of German occupation during World War II with a local guide.
Either before or after your visit to Anne Frank House, check out the Begijnhof. It’s located about a ten-minute walk from Anne Frank House and well worth a detour.
The Begijnhof is a tranquil inner courtyard that is surrounded by 164 dwellings dating back to the 14th century and owned by the Beguines, a female Roman Catholic religious order. For centuries and up to the present day, only single women lived and continue to live in the houses bordering the courtyard.
The Beguines were women who dedicated their lives to helping the needy even though they did not belong to a church order. However, they took a vow of chastity and renounced their private lives.
The women who still live in Begijnhof must put up with tourists entering their courtyard to snap pictures. Fortunately, signs caution visitors to stay quiet and respectful and presumably the courtyard is closed to visitors at night.
House number 34 is a wooden house reputed to be the oldest house in Amsterdam, built during the sixteenth century. Informative plaques provide information about the inhabitants of the Begijnhof back in the day, and you can enter the two churches.
The 15th century Engelse Kerk (English Church) was where the Beguines attended mass until the Protestant takeover in the sixteenth century and the church was transformed into the English Reformed Church. You can also enter the Catholic Houten Huys.
The Begijnhof is not what I’d call an attraction in Amsterdam. It’s more of an oasis–a serene respite from the crowded sidewalks and whizzing bikes in Amsterdam’s lively Centrum.
Taking time out of a busy sightseeing day to sit quietly on a bench overlooking the green lawn surrounded by beautifully preserved 17th and 18th century Amsterdam narrow houses is one of the best ways I know to get off the beaten path and just relax.
You can enter the Begijnhof for free between 8 am to 5 pm every day.
Staying in Amsterdam
I recommend the Clayton Hotel Amsterdam American (#4)–a venerable old hotel with a gorgeous art deco restaurant, friendly staff, and comy rooms. The location, about a ten-minute walk from the Rijksmuseum (#1) and overlooking the Singelgracht can’t be beat.
Another great choice is Mokum Suites (#5) on a very picturesque stretch of the Herengracht and close to the lively Rembrandtplein. From your suite, you can watch the canal boats slide past.
Conclusion
Have you visited Anne Frank House and/or Begijnhof? Share your experiences and recommendations in the Comments below. Here are some more posts about Amsterdam–one of my favorite cities in Europe.
You’ve arrived in Amsterdam and started strolling around the Centrum—that enchanting half-circle of canals built four hundred years ago that gives Amsterdam its unique ambiance.
Just about every time you cross a bridge spanning an Amsterdam canal, you’ll likely see a wide-bottomed, glass-topped canal boats bristling with camera-snapping tourists gliding past.
Should you take an hour out of your sightseeing schedule to enjoy an Amsterdam canal cruise?
I’m going to go out on a limb here and say, absolutely!
It’s a super relaxing way to see the canals of Amsterdam from a new perspective, and you’ll learn stuff.
A Bit of Background
Although I’ve visited Amsterdam numerous times since my first visit in 1970, I had not taken a canal trip since 1974. I was a fresh-faced eighteen-year-old on my very first solo trip to Europe—a two-week jaunt from England where I’d moved to go to university.
I had my backpack, my red anorak (très chic—not) and a thin wad of traveler’s checks.
After flying from London Heathrow to Amsterdam, I took the bus into the city (no splashing out on taxis in those austere days), stashed my backpack at a dorm room at the Hans Brinker Hostel (which is still going), and then went in search of a canal tour. As a first-time solo traveler, it seemed like a savvy thing to do.
I couldn’t get lost sitting on a canal boat.
That first canal tour was, frankly, not that memorable. Amsterdam in 1974 was lively, but it was also grubby and kinda seedy. The house façades looked neglected, the harbor still showed the effects of World War II, and the Dutch people appeared a bit on the grim side.
The energetic, multicultural, joyous atmosphere of today’s Amsterdam was nowhere to be found.
Finding a Canal Cruise
Fast forward forty-one years (yikes!) and I’m again on board a canal boat for a 75-minute cruise. I’ve only just arrived in Amsterdam after a nine-hour flight from Vancouver. Taking a relaxing cruise in the late afternoon turns out to be the perfect way to recover.
Book Ahead
If Amsterdam is your first stop on your European vacation, I recommend you book your cruise before you leave home. Choose a time slot that is a few hours after you arrive in Amsterdam so you can get settled and find your way to the dock closest to your hotel.
A canal cruise is a great way to get the lay of the land and see Amsterdam’s city center up close.
I purchased tickets through GetYourGuide before I left home and so I just needed to present the QR code on my phone to the attendant. I chose the Blue Boat company, but there are several more in Amsterdam.
Cruise Company
Your choice of cruise company will likely be dictated by location. I’m staying at the Clayton Hotel Amsterdam American on the Singelgracht. The Blue Boat (and at least two more companies that I could see) have departure docks in this area.
Clayton Hotel on the Singelgracht in Amsterdam near the Blue Boat dock
The Blue Boat is about a five-minute walk along the Singelgracht toward the Rijksmuseum.
Go to the website of any cruise company and check where they have departure point, then choose the one closest to your accommodation. Most canal cruises go from Singelgracht or from the Damrak close to Central Station.
Cruise Types
In addition to the classic canal cruise in a glass-topped boat (the kind I took), you can also discover Amsterdam by canal in plenty of other ways.
Choose from open boat cruises, dinner cruises, pizza cruises, and evening cruises, or for a more intimate experience, book a private boat tour just for yourself and your party that includes food and drinks.
Here are some boat cruises on GetYourGuide that show you Amsterdam from the water.
The April afternoon is brilliantly sunny (a not usual occurrence in my experience visiting Amsterdam almost annually since 2008).
The boat is only half full, so Gregg and I have a table for six to ourselves. The top of the table is printed with a map of the canals, but it isn’t very useful because it doesn’t include the route.
This is my only complaint. I would have appreciated a visual representation of our route that showed me exactly where the canal tour went. The only other option is to follow the route on Google Maps on my phone.
And speaking of phones, make sure you purchase an eSim card from a company such as Airolo (my first choice) to you can keep on roaming without paying exhorbitant fees.
Tour Commentary
The Blue Boat tour I chose doesn’t include live commentary, probably because it was one of the least expensive options. I’m given a cheap pair of headphones and directed to plug into the wall next to the table and choose my language.
The commentary is informative but not constant. During the course of the 75-minute tour, it comes in and out, and is, to be kind, a bit on the dull side.
However, I do learn that Amsterdam has more canals than Venice and more bridges than Paris. The beautiful canals we see today date from the 17th century when, as a result of severe overcrowding in the old center of Amsterdam, the city fathers decided to build more canals and more warehouses.
The main canals of Herengracht, Keisergracht, and Prinsengracht were completed over the course of 40 years.
During the cruise, you can choose to sit outside at the back of the boat, which is the place to be to take unobstructed pictures of the picturesque canals. The downside is that the canned commentary isn’t available outside.
I spend a bit of time out there, but the wind is chilly and so quickly resume my seat under the glass roof.
Amsterdam from Below
What strikes me first as we get going is that I’m viewing Amsterdam from below looking up. I’m always used to looking down on Amsterdam’s canals from the bridges, not up from the water. The perspective provides a different, more intimate view of this enchanting city.
I love watching the gorgeous facades of the canal houses drift by. Most have been beautifully renovated—a striking contrast to the careworn and grimy scenes I remember from my cruise in 1974. Now, I admire plenty of white plaster leaves and swirls, ornate gables and other rich decorations including statues and columns.
After tootling around several canals in the Centrum, the boat ventures out into the harbor. Quaint gabled narrow houses give way to a plethora of ultra-modern buildings, the vast majority of them built since my 1974 trip.
The commentary informs me that Oosterhoeck Island used to be a wasteland of abandoned buildings until being reclaimed and built on in 2003.
Houseboats
The boat cuts a wide arc across the harbor and then back into the canals on its way to Singelgraacht and “home.” We pass people sit atop their canal boats enjoying wine in the sunshine.
I learn that the houseboats are permanently fixed in place on concrete pads. Unlike in the UK where houseboats are mobile, the Amsterdam ones stay put.
Staying in Amsterdam
Amsterdam has many options–from boutique hotels to grand hotels to apartments to chain hotels. I’ve stayed in all of these types and they all have pros and cons. On my most recent trip to Amsterdam in 2025, I stayed a the Clayton Hotel Amsterdam American which I highly recommend. This venerable old hotel is an Amsterdam icon with a fabulous art deco restaurant.
We were upgraded to a canal view room with a view over the Singelgracht. The location of the Clayton Hotel Amsterdam American. It’s about a ten-minute walk to the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum and right on the edge of the Centrum. The area is lively with plenty of restaurants.
View over the Singelgracht from my room a the Clayton Hotel Amsterdam American
Another good choice that I highly recommend if you’re looking for a slightly more reasonably priced option is the Holiday Inn Express – City Hall, steps from the harbor and within walking distance of old Amsterda. Ask for a canal view room.
View of canals from the window of a room at the Holiday Inn Express – City Hall in Amsterdam
Amsterdam is not a cheap city. Plan on spending at least €300-€400 per night for a decent hotel in a central area of Amsterdam. I recommend you avoid places outside the city center. They may be cheaper, but you’ll spend too much time on trams getting into the interesting parts of the city.
Book a place as close to the Centrum as possible and enjoy many hours of wander alongside the beautiful canals.
Conclusion
The word that comes to mind to describe a canal boat tour in Amsterdam is restful. You have zero to do except sit and watch the world glide past at a comfortable walking pace. Snap endless pictures of elegant narrow houses, listen to the commentary now and again, and just relax.
You’re in Amsterdam!
Have you taken a canal cruise in Amsterdam? Share your experience in the comments below.
Here are some more posts about Amsterdam (one of my favorite European cities):
When Vincent Van Gogh left behind the bustling energy of Paris in search of tranquility, warmth, and brighter landscapes, he found his muse in the charming city of Arles, France.
Arriving in February 1888, he immersed himself in the vibrant surroundings, creating over 300 paintings and drawings—including some of his most famous works: The Night Café, The Yellow Room, Starry Night Over the Rhône, and L’Arlésienne.
Arles was also where Van Gogh invited fellow artist Paul Gauguin to join him, though their collaboration ended in a bitter falling-out. It was in this very city that his struggles with mental illness escalated, leading to the infamous incident where he cut off his ear.
Arles Before Van Gogh
Long before Van Gogh’s time, Arles was already a city of immense cultural and historical significance. Nestled in the wetlands of the Camargue and bordered by two branches of the Rhône River, Arles played a vital role in ancient Rome.
Its prominence soared after it supported Julius Caesar against Pompey, the latter backed by Arles’ rival, Massalia (modern-day Marseille). As Massalia declined, Arles flourished. The Romans constructed a canal linking the city to the Mediterranean in 104 AD, facilitating trade and military expansion. By the 4th century, Arles had become a key military headquarters for Roman campaigns across Europe, boasting a population of up to 100,000.
Through the centuries, Arles saw the rise and fall of various rulers, from the Christian Visigoths who ousted the Romans to the Saracens and Vikings who later raided the city. Eventually, it became part of France, developing into a major center of Catholic influence in what was then part of Provence.
Exploring Arles’s Rich Roman Heritage
A visit to Arles is a journey through time, beginning with its remarkably preserved Roman structures. One of the city’s most impressive landmarks is the Arles Amphitheatre, a grand Roman arena still in use today.
This UNESCO World Heritage site once held 20,000 spectators, cheering on charioteers and gladiators. Remarkably, in the post-Roman era, the town’s population shrank so drastically that people lived inside the arena itself, fortifying it with defensive towers. Today, visitors can witness bullfights, theatrical performances, and concerts within its ancient walls.
Nearby, the Roman Theatre of Arles, built in the 1st century under Emperor Augustus, once seated 8,000 spectators. Though time has eroded parts of its grandeur, remnants of the stage, orchestra, and seating area endure. It was here that the famed Venus of Arles statue was discovered in 1651.
Other Roman relics include the Alyscamps Necropolis, an ancient burial site just beyond the city which also inspired some of Van Gogh’s works, as well as a well-preserved aqueduct, a historic bathhouse, and the 4th-century Roman Obelisk, which still stands at the center of the Place de la République.
The Heart of Old Arles
The Place de la République serves as the historic center of Arles. Here, the Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) showcases exquisite classical architecture, while the Basilica of Saint-Trophime impresses with its intricate Romanesque carvings.
The adjacent cloister adds to the city’s medieval charm, and on special occasions and Sundays, locals in traditional Provençal attire gather at the church for cultural celebrations and weddings in traditional costume.
As you wander the streets of old town Arles, you’ll find vibrant cafés and boutiques housed in 17th and 18th-century buildings. Art lovers can follow in Van Gogh’s footsteps with a walking tour of sites he famously depicted or frequented.
Notable stops include Espace Van Gogh, the 16th-century hospital where he was treated after his self-inflicted injury and where he lived during periods of mania, the site of the Yellow House where he once lived, and the Place du Forum, home to the café featured in his painting Café Terrace at Night.
Just outside the city, visitors can see the Langlois Bridge, the iconic drawbridge over the Bouc Canal that Van Gogh painted multiple times in 1888.
A Timeless Destination
Arles is a place where history, art, and culture converge. Whether you’re exploring its Roman past, following Van Gogh’s artistic journey, or simply enjoying the warmth of its streets and people, the city continues to leave a lasting impression—just as it did on one of history’s greatest painters.
Recommended Reading
For fiction lovers, consider Lust for Life: A Novel of Vincent Van Gogh by Irving Stone,Sunflowers by Sheramy Bundrick, Painting the Wind by Michele Dionetti, Eagle in the Snow: General Maximus and Rome’s Last Stand by Wallace Breem.
For a deeper historical and biographical perspective, explore The Letters of Vincent Van Gogh by Van Gogh: The Complete Paintings by Ingo F. Walther, Vincent and Theo: The Van Gogh Brothers by Deborah Heiligman, The Yellow House: Van Gogh, Gauguin, and Nine Turbulent Weeks in Arles by Martin Gayford, Vincent’s Arles: As It Is and as It Was by Linda Seidel, and The Rock of Arles by Richard Klein—a Roman era look at the city.
Read about Jackie Lapin on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page.
When most people think of “fair” Verona, they typically think of Shakespeare’s play Romeo and Juliet.
Two households, both alike in dignity (In fair Verona, where we lay our scene), From ancient grudge break to new mutiny, Where civil blood makes civil hands unclean. (Prologue.1–4)
But when I recently stayed in Verona for a week on a house exchange, it wasn’t the romantic story of Romeo and Juliet that I had in mind.
It was the city’s real history. For me, that’s the true romance of Verona.
History of Verona
Thanks to its location along the Adige River in the Veneto region of northern Italy, Verona has been inhabited since prehistoric times. It became a Roman town in the third century B.C. and was one of the most important Italian cities during the Roman era.
Because of its strategic location on the river, it was used as a base for overseeing the northern territories and was at the intersection of many important roads.
Today, everywhere you look, the city teems with Roman art and architecture.
But that’s not all. Medieval Verona is equally represented, with its many artifacts woven seamlessly throughout the city. Add the city’s Renaissance and Baroque masterpieces, and this art-historical wonderland is complete.
No wonder Verona is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Arrival in Verona
My first experience with the city of Verona was at night. We arrived after taking the train directly from Venice, an hour away. We then took an Uber to our house exchange on the left bank of the Adige River.
After settling in, we went in search of a restaurant.
We walked across the Ponte Vittoria (Victory Bridge) and, in five minutes, found ourselves right in the middle of Piazza Brà, otherwise known as tourist central.
The piazza was packed, and the energy electric. We quickly found an outdoor table across from Verona’s famous Roman arena and ordered—what else—pizza!
Piazza Brà Restaurants
What to See in Verona
Following is an overview of the places I visited during my week in Verona. While you can see quite a lot of the city in a day, slow down and consider spending a full week, or at least two or three full days. Verona has a lot to offer!
The Verona Arena
The most prominent reminder of Verona’s Roman past is the Arena di Verona. This must-see attraction was built in 30 AD (forty years before the Colosseum in Rome). The ancient Romans staged deadly gladiator and animal fights here—an entertainment staple throughout the Roman world.
Verona Arena, 30 AD
In the following centuries, as was the medieval custom, the arena became a rich source for the construction materials needed to create new buildings in the city.
The structure we see today is the result of this constant scavenging and a devastating twelfth-century earthquake.
The arena has been in continual use over the centuries.
In the Middle Ages, judicial disputes were resolved by hand-to-hand combat here, and until the 18th century, this was the site of jousts and tournaments.
Today, the arena is the setting for Verona’s world-famous opera season.
Piazza Brà
The Piazza Brà is the main square in the center of Verona. (The term bra is derived from the German word breit, which means broad.) It’s one of Italy’s largest piazzas and an ideal spot for people-watching.
The welcoming, open space is paved with pink marble and lined with restaurants, majestic historical buildings, and the picturesque Portoni della Brà (Gates of the Bra).
The Portoni della Piazza Brà archways are embedded in Verona’s medieval walls, connecting the city to the suburban countryside at the time.
Verona Tourist Office
The tourist office is located in the Piazza Brà. Here you can buy tickets for the Hop-on-Hop-off bus to explore Verona or book other city tours.
When I was younger, I had nothing but disdain for tourists who chose to explore a city in such a superficial manner.
Now, I’ve realized it’s an excellent way to quickly get the big picture, find your favorite points of interest, and save your feet for the main events—museums, churches, castles, and ruins.
Here are some tours in Verona to consider:
Porta Borsari
Not far from the Piazza Brà stands the impressive Porta Borsari (the Borsari Gate). Built in the first century AD, it was the primary entrance to the city in Roman times.
And it was here that medieval tax collectors charged tariffs on goods entering and exiting the city; hence the gate’s name, which roughly translates to “the money purse gate.”
On the other side of the gate is the Corso Porta Borsari, an ancient Roman street. Now, it’s a charming pedestrian shopping district known for its shoe stores.
Porta Borsari, 1st Century AD
Via Mazzini
Another ancient street—Via Mazzini—is slightly beyond the Porta Dei Borsari. The buildings on either side of this marbled walkway house Verona’s most elegant shops.
Although these stores sell the latest fashions, they’re rooted—as is everywhere else in Verona—in the past (literally).
A good example of this is the Benetton store. Its ground floor is covered in glass so you can see the first-century Roman domus (home) excavated beneath it.
Piazza delle Erbe
Both Via Mazzini and Corso Porta Borsari lead to the rectangular Piazza delle Erbe (Plaza of Herbs), originally the site of the Roman Forum.
This bustling square, surrounded by historic buildings, is now home to an open-air market, continuing one of the ancient forum’s traditional functions.
Outdoor market stall in the Piazza delle Erbe
Three historic relics adorn the middle length of the piazza: the Capitello, Madonna di Verona, and The Winged Lion of St. Mark.
Capitello
The Capitello (Capital) is a thirteenth-century canopied podium used in the Middle Ages to swear in magistrates.
Madonna di Verona
The Madonna di Verona (My Lady of Verona) fountain is named for the Roman sculpture it supports. In 1368, the original statue that had inhabited the piazza since the first century was restored, given a crown, and placed atop a fountain.
This was at the peak of Verona’s medieval political power, and the sculpture was intended to personify the great city.
Winged Lion of St. Mark
A tall marble column supports the winged lion of St. Mark. The sculpture was erected in 1523 as an emblem of the Venice Republic, which ruled Verona from the fifteenth to the eighteenth centuries.
Casa Mazzanti
Another art historical find in the Piazza delle Erbe is the painted façade of the Case Mazzanti (Mazzanti Houses), originally the residence of the powerful della Scala family, who ruled Verona during its medieval heydays.
In sixteenth and seventeenth century Verona, the palace facades of the city’s most prominent families were often entirely decorated with frescoes, so much so that Verona was nicknamed the painted city.
Many of these paintings did not survive, were plastered over, or were detached from their walls and exhibited in museums.
One of the best-preserved examples, and still in its original location, is Case Mazzanti, painted by Alberto Cavalli, a collaborator of the Mannerist painter Giulio Romano. It’s easy to see the influence of Michelangelo’s muscular style in these monumental frescoes.
Palazzo Maffei
At the northwest end of the piazza, the Palazzo Maffei (Maffei Palace) provides a grand theatrical finale to the entire space. The original building dates back to the fourteenth century but was completely redesigned into a sumptuous Baroque mansion in the seventeenth century.
Today, the palazzo houses the Casa Museo (House Museum) art collection and a fabulous restaurant—the Ristorante Maffei. The museum was closed when we were there, but we were able to eat a delicious lunch between the grand Baroque columns of its elegant courtyard.
Verona’s Roman Theater and Archaeological Museum
From the Palazzo Maffei, we wandered the narrow streets to the picturesque Ponte Pietra (Stone Bridge)—first built in Roman times but rebuilt often since. Crossing the bridge, we came to Verona’s restored Roman theater, dating to the first century AD and still used today.
An impressive archaeological museum nestles in the hillside high above the theater in what used to be a fifteenth-century Jesuit monastery.
It’s a steep climb on uneven steps to get to the museum, but it’s worth it for those who like ancient art and a stunning historic setting.
Archaeological Museum
Here are two interesting exhibits in the Archaeological Museum–an ancient Greek rhyton (drinking cup) from the 4th century BC and the torso of a Roman soldier.
Verona’s Piazza dei Signori
Returning across the Ponte Pietra, we came upon the Piazza dei Signori (Plaza of the Lords) with its statue of Dante in the center.
The sculpture was commissioned in 1863 to honor the six-hundredth anniversary of Dante’s birth. Dante lived in Verona for seven years after his exile from Florence. Verona’s oldest café is also in this piazza. It named itself Caffè Dante after the Dante monument was installed. We didn’t eat at Caffè Dante, but I wish we had!
Shown below is the Piazza dei Signori. The Caffè Dante is to the left; the sculpture of Dante is in the center, and the Loggia del Consiglio is to the right.
Palazzo della Ragione and Loggia del Consiglio
The piazza is surrounded by splendid buildings that began in the Middle Ages. The Palazzo della Ragione (Town Hall) was built by the powerful della Scala family mentioned earlier.
They ruled Verona during the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries—a time of significant economic and cultural achievement for the city. The palace had four towers in medieval times, but only one remains today—the breathtaking 275-foot-high Torre dei Lamberti (Lamberti Tower).
On the north side of the Piazza dei Signori stands the fifteenth-century Loggia del Consiglio (Loggia of the Council)—a classic example of Early Renaissance design. The figures on top represent famous Verona citizens.
The two buildings offer a sharp contrast of styles. While the medieval town hall incorporated soaring towers into its overall design to sweep you off your feet, the Renaissance loggia appeals more to the rational mind with its harmonious balance of horizontals and verticals.
The Church and Cemetery of Santa Maria Antica, Verona
Tucked around the corner down a narrow street from the Piazza dei Signori is the little twelfth-century church of Santa Maria Antica, which became the della Scala family church.
The sarcophagus and equestrian statue of Cangrande I adorn the church façade above the door.
Cangrande I was the most significant figure of the della Scala family. He protected Dante while in exile and was acclaimed as a great warrior and powerful autocrat who was Verona’s sole ruler from 1311 until he died in 1329.
Next to the church is the della Scala family cemetery with imposing Gothic tombs that almost overshadow the church itself.
Below is the Tomb of Cansignorio della Scala (who ruled Verona from 1359 to 1375). Like his more famous predecessor, Cangrande I, he’s depicted on horseback in full armor.
This is the most richly decorated tomb in the cemetery with the elaborate cast of characters on its base–warrior saints, Gospel figures, the Virtues, and the Apostles–even more impressive than the statue itself.
Dinner and a View
After an exhilarating and exhausting day of sightseeing, a relaxing dinner in a beautiful location is always welcome. With this in mind, we dined one evening at the Re Teodorico Bar and Restaurant near Piazzale Castel San Pietro on San Pietro Hill overlooking the Adige River.
The hill has been inhabited since the beginning of Roman times, and the restaurant has been there for sixty years. The views from this spot are spectacular, and the food outstanding.
Re Teodorico Bar
Re Teodorico view
Verona’s Castelvecchio
The della Scala family not only adorned Verona with magnificent tombs but also a magnificent castle.
The Castelvecchio is a massive fortress built next to the Adige River from 1354 to 1355 during the reign of Cangrande I.
The fortified structure even spans the river, providing the castle inhabitants with a protected escape. Today, everyone can “escape” across this carefully reconstructed and gracefully arched Ponte di Castel Vecchio, a pedestrian bridge.
Civico Museo d’Arte
The castle interior has been restored and transformed into bright exhibit spaces that include the collections of the Civico Museo d’Arte.
Paintings
The collection features sculptures and decorative arts in addition to paintings by Bellini, Rubens, Montagna, Guardi, Tiepolo, Tintoretto, Pisano, and artists of the fifteenth- and sixteenth-century Veronese school.
The detail below is from a painting called Madonna dell’ombrello (Madonna of the Umbrella), created by Girolamo dai Libri (Girolamo of books). Besides being a painter of large-scale works, he was also a manuscript illuminator, which explains his name and his ability to paint such beautiful, meticulous details.
You can see the complete painting below. Although Girolamo is not known as one of the Renaissance greats, I find this piece captivating.
Madonna of the Umbrella, 1530,by Girolamo dai Libri, Castelvecchio, Verona. Photo source: Wikimedia Commons
Statues
Outside on the castle grounds stands the original equestrian sculpture of Cangrande I—a Gothic art masterpiece.
Although Cangrande was christened Can Francesco, his nickname—big dog in Italian—probably came from his physical and mental prowess. This nickname also explains the large dog-headed helmet with eagle wings that leans back on his shoulders in the sculpture.
But besides the elaborate helmet, the most striking thing about this artwork is Cangrande’s expression. Instead of looking serious or fierce, he appears to be resting between conflicts with a self-satisfied grin.
History remembers Cangrande as incredibly strong and brave in battle, but he was also known for his friendly and kind disposition. This sculpture, then, celebrates both the great warrior and the affable man.
In a corner tower of the castle’s raised walkways, you can also see the original equestrian monument of Mastino II. He came into power after Cangrande I died. Like his uncle, he’s shown in full armor. But instead of being relaxed, he’s prepared for a fight, his face hidden behind a helmet in the form of a winged mastiff. As with Cangrande I, the helmet references his name. Mastino means mastiff in Italian.
The Basilica of San Zeno, Verona
Leaving the Castelvecchio, we walked west along the Adige River until we came to a large eleventh- twelfth-century basilica dedicated to San Zeno, the fourth-century Veronese Bishop and Patron Saint of Verona.
But let me digress here for a moment. Although I wrote at the beginning of this post that my focus for this trip was not Romeo and Juliet, tradition says this church is where they married. So, as it turns out, we did see one of Romeo and Juliet’s haunts (although not the famous balcony, and quite unintentionally).
The church of San Zeno (pictured in the center below) is flanked by its elegant campanile on the right and the Benedictine abbey on the left with its classic medieval defensive tower. The three make a striking architectural ensemble.
We accessed the church through a side entrance. The front portal stays shut to protect the massive interior bronze doors with their marvelously expressive Romanesque reliefs dating from the eleventh to the thirteenth centuries. Here is a detail from the bronze door.
Along with its masterful bronze portals, the church interior includes an exquisite one-of-a-kind, fourteenth-century wooden roof and walls covered with frescoes from the thirteenth to the fifteenth centuries. Some of these frescoes have peeled away over time to reveal the earlier paintings underneath, making marvelously surreal images.
The pièce de résistance in this church is the elaborate fifteenth-century painting—Madonna with Saints—behind the high altar. Andrea Mantegna—one of the great artists of the Italian Renaissance—created this exquisitely detailed masterwork.
Staying in Verona
As I mentioned in the beginning, we did a house exchange in Verona, but our friends (seasoned travelers) recently stayed in Hotel Torcolo, located a few steps from the arena in the heart of the old town. They loved its location, antique charm, and a restaurant (pictured below) with great food and wine.
Torcolo Restaurant at the Hotel Torcolo
Day Trip to Lake Garda
During a week stay in Verona, consider taking a day trip to beautiful Lake Garda. The train from Verona Porta Nuova train station to Desenanzo del Garda/Sirmione takes just 20 minutes. Check out the Artsy Traveler post on Sirmione.
So, there’s my take on Verona in a nutshell. It’s a marvelously rich town on so many levels—the architecture, the art, the history, the landscape, the food, and, well, yes, the Romeo and Juliet lore!
Have you visited Verona? Share your recommendations for other artsy travelers in the Comments below.
Here are some more posts about destinations in northern Italy:
So you’ve decided to visit Austria. Great choice! What words does Austria conjure up for you. Waltzing? Mozart? The Sound of Music? Mountains?
If music was one of the things that came to mind, then put Austria–and Vienna in particular–on your must-visit list.
As a life-long devotee of classical music (I’ve played piano since I was five!), I always enjoy visiting both Vienna and Salzburg. I get a thoroughly classical music hit touring the houses of some of my fave composers, enjoying concerts, and checking out the wonderful House of Music in Vienna.
And if you are a museum-goer, you’ll swoon in Vienna, which has some of the largest and most varied museums in Europe. And then there are mountains! Travel west from Vienna to experience mountain vistas in Salzburg and Innsbruck.
Austria Highlights at a Glance
Explore the Tyrol and take a tour to Castle Neuschwanstein just over the border in Germany
Visit Salzburg and commune with Mozart and The Sound of Music
Practical Tips for Travel in Austria
In this post, I cover some of the basics of visiting Austria–when to visit, checking events, transportation, accommodations, and food.
But first, a bit of trivia! Did you know that Vienna has been named themost livable city in the world for the past three years in a row (and several more years before that)? The city earned a rating of 98.4 out of a possible 100. Wow!
Another one of my favorite cities in Europe also made the cut– Copenhagen is #2. My home town of Vancouver is #7 which isn’t too shabby!
A Map of Austria
The map below includes the four places mentioned in my posts about Austria: Vienna (#1), Salzburg (#2), Innsbruck (#3), and tiny little Pinswang (#4) where we stayed on a driving trip through Austria on our way to Italy. Click a number to view links to more posts.
Here’s where I cover some of the basics of visiting Austria–when to visit, checking events, transportation, accommodations, and food.
Decide When to Visit
First off, decide when you want to visit. If you are hoping to enjoy cultural delights such as opera, festivals, and music events including performances by the Vienna Boys Choir, then visit between September and May.
I’ve visited Austria in both May and September and the weather was perfect for touring apart from the occasional day of rain.
Check Events and Exhibitions
Before you visit Austria, check online for exhibitions and performances. Also be on the lookout for local festivals.
Austria is not a large country and it’s easy to travel around. The drive from Vienna to Salzburg takes about three hours, four if you include a few stops.
Trains are also fast and efficient. Consider taking trains between cities (Vienna to Salzburg to Innsbruck) and then either renting a car to tour the countryside or booking a small group guided tour.
A good strategy when visiting Austria is to fly to Vienna, see the city for a few days, and then pick up a car to explore the rest of the country. We did that on one trip and found driving out of Vienna relatively stress-free compared to some other European cities such as Paris and Rome.
Public Transit
As a relatively small country, Austria is easy to explore by train. You can zip from Vienna to Salzburg in about 2 and a half hours. If you don’t want to drive, use the trains to get between the major cities (Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck) and then take day tours.
Small Group Tours
I highly recommend small group tours run by locals as a stress-free way to explore the countryside. If you enjoy driving, then by all means rent a car. But if you’d rather relax and leave the driving to someone else, consider day tours. I’ve sometimes left my car at my hotel and taken a small group tour of a particular region that I’d rather not drive through (e.g., tortuous Alpine roads).
Driving Through Austria
Often, I’ve driven through western Austria when traveling from Germany to Italy, crossing at the Brenner Pass.
On a recent trip, I stopped for the night just across the border in Austria from the town of Fussen, Germany. The town is famous for being close to “Mad Ludwig’s” castle, otherwise known as Neuschwanstein.
I spent the night in the tiny and impossibly charming village of Pinswang nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains. Called the Gutshof zum Schluxen, the 3-star bed-and-breakfast was everything a place in the fabled Austrian Tyrol should be.
The proprietor wore lederhosen, the wine was local, the dinner hearty and very Austrian, and the room with a view over the valley was comfortable and quiet.
If you’re staying in Munich and don’t have a car, see the castles on a guided day trip.
Castle Neuschwanstein in Schwangau Germany just over the border from Austria
Safety in Austria
Austria is a safe country to travel in. I stayed on my own for several days in Vienna. Every evening, I walked around the city and took transit to my apartment and I never felt in danger.
But, as always, be aware of your surroundings and wear your money belt!
I found Austria, and Vienna in particular, expensive. Even the 3-star bed-and-breakfast we stayed at in the Tyrol, the Gutshof zum Schluxen mentioned earlier, cost about €140 for one night.
Expect to pay €250-400 or more for a centrally located, good-quality hotel room in Vienna. When you’re looking for accommodation in Vienna, choose places within the old city walls.
You could opt for a budget hotel on the outskirts but I don’t recommend doing so. You’ll waste too much time commuting through dreary suburbs into the wonderful city center. Spend the money and book a good hotel in the old city.
I made the mistake of being budget conscious to a fault on one trip to Vienna when I booked an apartment about a 40-minute tram ride from the city center. Sure, the place was inexpensive, but the hot water ran out on the second day and it was located in a nondescript neighborhood, kilometers from the action.
Apartments can be a good bet in Vienna, but again, book one in the center of the city. You’ll find excellent ones listed on HomeAway and on Booking.com. Click on the map below to find hotels in Vienna.
Two words describe food in Austria–hearty and filling. If you like wiener schnitzel, you’ll have no trouble getting well fed in Austria. Every menu includes it along with other staples such as tafelspitz, which is boiled beef with root vegetables. The broth is flavorful but when I tried it in Vienna, I can’t say I was impressed.
Homemade Breaded Wiener Schnitzel with Potatoes
For dessert, just try to resist Apple Strudel–layers and layers of flaky pastry, tender apples, powdered sugar–yeah, what’s not to like?
In Vienna, set aside an hour or two to drink coffee and eat a slice of sachertorte in one of the iconic coffee houses. Invented by Franz Sacher in 1832 for Prince Metternich in Vienna, a slice of sachertorte will slide down pretty darned smoothly–chocolate sponge cake, apricot, dark chocolate icing.
Sachertorte puts the ‘ee’ in sweet.
Sachertorte
Apparently, December 5 is National Sachertorte Day in the United States. Who knew?
Conclusion
Have you traveled to Austria? Share your experiences and recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Here are more posts to read next to help you plan your Austria trip:
Visit Porto, drink port wine, and stay in a place overlooking the river
Portugal vs. Spain
Portugal is not at all like Spain, which the Portuguese appreciate your remembering. Speaking Spanish in Portugal and expecting to be understood will not make you any friends. You’re far better to speak English.
Perhaps the key to differentiating Portugal from
its brasher and bigger next-door neighbor is to compare their two signature
music styles.
Fado music with its soulful, heartbreaking,
yearning harmonies captures the essence of Portugal just as the relentless,
in-your-face rhythms of flamenco is Spanish to the core.
Although small compared to Spain, Portugal packs a solid artsy punch. Spend a few weeks in Portugal exploring all it has to offer—and you’ll come away with plenty of reasons to return.
Portugal and the World
As a result of the Age of Discovery, Portugal has had an outsized effect on the planet. Over 260 million people worldwide speak Portuguese.
Find time for a trip to Portugal to experience friendly people and a unique culture, a fascinating history that includes ancient megaliths, Roman ruins, and world explorers, and a stunningly varied landscape.
Because of Portugal’s remoteness from the rest of Europe, fly there directly, then rent a car. We’ve driven to Portugal from France a few times and it’s a long way!
Introducing Portugal
A Bit of History
You may be surprised to learn that Portugal has its share of megaliths similar to those in Carnac in France and in other countries bordering the Atlantic.
And did you know that the Romans conquered Portugal (although it took several decades) and that many of Portugal’s cities and towns trace their roots to Roman founders?
Hanging out at the Cromeleque dos Almendres, an amazing megalithic site near Évora in the Alentejo
During the Age of Exploration spanning the 15th to
17th centuries, Portugal sent scores of ships across the Atlantic to colonize
huge swathes of the New World, most notably Brazil.
In modern times, the Carnation Revolution of 1974
led to the peaceful overthrow of fascism. The revolution is commemorated as a
national holiday—Dia da Liberdade—on April 25.
Portugal is an extremely popular tourist destination—so much so that you’ll need to plan strategically to avoid crowds, particularly in Lisbon and in the Algarve.
Fortunately, there’s more to Portugal than big cities and sunny beaches. You’ll discover plenty of off-the-beaten-track, artsy sightseeing to keep you busy. Pop into Lisbon by all means, but make time in your itinerary for as much of Portugal as possible.
Planning to Travel in Portugal
Portugal extends from the Atlantic Ocean in the south to the Spanish border in the north and is bordered to the west by the Atlantic and to the east by Spain.
To drive from the Algarve in the south to Porto in the north takes about five hours—a distance of 554 kilometers over excellent and generally empty toll roads.
Choose Your Transportation
Even if you’ve been reluctant to drive in Europe because you’ve heard horror stories about traffic jams and impossibly tiny roads (and those stories are true!), consider driving in Portugal.
The toll freeways are lightly travelled, making getting from point to point exceptionally fast and easy. Even off the freeways, the traffic isn’t bad, with the notable exception of Lisbon.
I don’t recommend driving in Lisbon. Narrow streets, steep hills, lots of annoying tuk tuks, and speedy drivers make Lisbon a nightmare for drivers. Drop your car at the airport and take a taxi or a private transfer into Lisbon.
The recent arrival of scores of tuk tuks darting around the streets of Lisbon is not an improvement.
Public Transit
Getting to Portugal by train is challenging, as we discovered when we tried to get from Seville in Spain to Tavira in the Algarve. We ended up taking a bus across the border, then caught a train from Tavira to Lisbon.
Check the Omio and Trainline websites for rail schedules to see if traveling in Portugal by train makes sense for you.
Renting a Car
I suggest you fly to Lisbon, pick up your rental car at the airport, head out to explore Portugal, and then drop your car off at the airport. Grab a taxi into Lisbon and tour the city for a few days before flying home or to another part of Europe.
On our most recent trip to Europe, we picked up
our car in Amsterdam and dropped it off in Lisbon after driving over 6,000
kilometers. Open-jaw car rentals are the best!
TIP: Don’t arrange to pick up your rental car in the center of the Lisbon. Take a taxi to the airport and pick up the car there.
Driving Tips
Driving in Portugal is delightful—beautiful scenery, excellent roads, and as mentioned, very little traffic. There have been times when driving in Portugal that we wondered if the apocalypse had started without our knowing. There were that few cars on the road!
You’ll pay tolls to travel on the highways and these tolls do add up. Always make sure to get a ticket at one of the drive-through booths before you enter a toll freeway. We missed the toll booth on one stretch of our trip and were obliged to pay for the entire length of the freeway rather than just the small portion we traveled on. Ouch!
The distances in Portugal are short compared to Spain. String together several small towns for a day of exploring or pick an area to home-base. The Algarve, the Alentejo, and Porto are all good choices.
TIP: Be careful about driving into the center of a Portuguese town or city. You might find yourself lost in a maze of tiny back streets as we once did in Porto. Find a large, secure parking lot as close to your hotel or apartment as you can comfortably drive on main roads. Then walk to your place or hail a taxi.
Driving into Portugal
You cross the border into Portugal from Spain to
the north and Spain to the east.
The drive from Seville to the southwest tip of the
Algarve takes just a few hours. Other options are crossing the border about
halfway down Portugal’s eastern border via Salamanca or driving south from
Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain.
I snapped this shot as we drove into the Algarve from Spain. Note that sparse traffic!
Check for Events and Exhibitions
Before you travel in Portugal, check online for
exhibitions and performances. Also be on the lookout for local festivals.
In 2019, friends I was visiting in the beach town of Figueira da Foz in central Portugal told us about a fantastic exhibition of the work of M.C. Escher in Porto which was next on our itinerary. What luck!
In one of the rooms in the exhibition, you can see the effects of Escher’s trademark optical illusions.
Gregg is small…
Gregg is tall.
Ask at your hotel about local exhibitions. The same day we saw the Escher exhibition in Porto, we were strolling through central Porto after attending a fado concert when we spied a poster for a Picasso exhibition.
Although past 7 pm, the exhibition was still open so in we went to enjoy a wonderful half hour followed by a glass of port that was included in the ticket price.
Artsy Favorites in Portugal
Fado
Fado’s roots can be traced back to the 1820s, but likely extend far beyond that. It’s a form of song characterized by mournful lyrics and heart-bending harmonies soaked in melancholy.
The Portuguese word saudade captures the meaning of fado—a longing for what’s lost, a resignation to the cruelties of fate. Fado literally means fate.
I once heard fado described as Portuguese hurtin’ music and that pretty much sums it up.
A fado singer in an Alfama restaurant in Lisbon
Fado is performed only by men in Coimbra and by either a male or a female singer in Lisbon and is accompanied by one or two guitarras (10- or 12-string guitars), one or two violas (6-string guitars), and sometimes also a viola baixo (a small 8-string bass viola).
Fado in Lisbon
Gregg and I adore fado and seek it out whenever we travel to Portugal. In Lisbon, you’ll find fado in restaurants in the Alfama and Bairro Alto districts.
You’ll hear the music spilling out as you walk by. Go in, order a meal, and prepare to be blown away.
Our favorite place that we return to on every visit to Lisbon is Restaurante Canto do Camões on Travessa da Espera in the Bairro Alto.
It’s small and intimate with a friendly owner, good food, and wonderful fado. The place doesn’t appear to have a website, but you’ll find reviews on TripAdvisor. On our last visit there, we had a great chat with one of the guitarists who had lived in Toronto, and bought his CD.
Fado and food service alternate. You’re served your food while the performers are resting and then you’re expected to be quiet during the performance.
A table of diners started talking and were promptly shushed by the owner—and rightly so!
Guitar in a fado club
To learn more about fado, visit the Fado Museum in the Alfama district of Lisbon.
Here’s an option for a fado performance in Lisbon:
In Coimbra, fado is sung by men only, often groups of students. The experience is different from Lisbon but just as soulful.
When you’re in Coimbra, go to the Cultural House àCapella – Fado Center for the nightly show that starts at 9:30 pm. The center is housed in a 14th-century chapel and includes a bar and tapas service.
The Alentejo region of Portugal, notably around Évora where I suggest you stay for two nights, is a treasure trove of megalithic sites.
In fact, the area is considered the most important area for megaliths in the Iberian Peninsula.
Most of the megaliths are standing stones that date from the Early Neolithic period (5500-4500 BC). Megaliths abound in fields around Évora: more than 10 megalithic enclosures, 100 isolated menhirs, 800 dolmens and 450 megalithic settlements. Wow!
Almendres Cromlech near Évora
Head west out of Évora to the Almendres Cromlech (Cromeleque dos Almendres), a megalithic complex reputed to be one of the world’s oldest—over 2,000 years older than Stonehenge.
More than 100 standing stones bristle down a hillside. Wander among them at will, take pictures and commune with the ancestral forces. Whenever we’ve visited, the place has been virtually deserted.
Follow the road signs to the site from the small
village of Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe.
Not far from the Almendres megaliths is the Almendres Menhir which was erected to mark the sunrise in the summer solstice.
If you don’t have a car and want to see the megaliths, check out this full-day tour from Lisbon:
The Romans colonized Portugal like they did most of western Europe and left behind a number of impressive ruins.
I visited two of the principal sites—the Roman temple in Évora and the ruins of Conímbriga near Coimbra and the largest of the Roman settlements excavated in Portugal.
Roman Temple in Évora
The evocative remains of the Roman Temple of Évora dominate the main square. Also referred to as the Temple of Diana (Templo de Diana), the temple is believed to have been constructed in the 1st century A.D.
Apparently, there’s scant proof that the temple was erected to honor the goddess of the hunt, and that referring to the temple as the Temple of Diana might be the result of a legend created in the 17th century by a Portuguese priest.
Portugal, Alentejo, Évora: Temple of Diana
Who knows? You can’t miss the temple when you visit Évora. Hang around until sunset to get some nice shots of the columns against the blue sky of the Alentejo.
Conímbriga
We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Conímbriga, located about 16 kilometers from Coimbra. Check it out on your way into Coimbra coming from the Alentejo. The highlight of the site is the villas paved with amazing floor mosaics, particularly the Casa dos Repuxos (House of Fountains). We were riveted.
The museum features a scale model of the forum showing
how it looked back in the day, along with plenty of objects from the site
including mosaics, sculptural fragments, coins, jewelry and everyday household
items.
Behind a pillar at Conímbriga
Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation
Artsy Travelers make a beeline for the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian in Lisbon—Portugal’s answer to the Louvre. What a great place with a marvellously eclectic range of artworks from the private collection of oil magnate Calouste Gulbenkian.
You’ll see treasures from the West and the East including Egyptian relics, Chinese porcelain, Western paintings, and room after room of jewelry, furniture, sculptures, and more. Artists include Rubens, Rembrandt, Turner, and Degas along with stunning works by jewelry designer René Lalique.
In addition to the founder’s collection, the Gulbenkian features what is considered the most complete collection of modern and contemporary Portuguese art.
After touring the museum, chill out for awhile in
the beautifully landscaped gardens before catching a bus or the metro back to
the center of Lisbon.
Here’s on option for getting tickets to the Gulbenkian that includes the Modern Art Museum:
English is widely spoken in Portugal as is French. In Portugal, American and British TV shows are broadcast in English with Portuguese subtitles which may account for why more people in Portugal speak English (or so it seemed to me) than do people in Spain.
In Spain, you’ll be hard-pressed to find any TV channels in English except for some very repetitive news channels. Programs not originally broadcast in Spanish are dubbed in Spanish.
In Portugal, people don’t expect tourists to know Portuguese, but you’ll earn more smiles if you at least make an effort.
And it’s probably not wise to speak Spanish as a substitute for Portuguese. In my experience, people would rather speak English or French than Spanish. Although you’ll hear some similarities to Spanish, Portuguese is its own very distinct language.
Here are a few useful words and phrases.
Sim – Yes
Não – No
Obrigado/Obrigada – Thank you. Men say obrigado. Women say obrigada. You’ll probably be okay sticking with obrigado if you prefer not to be gender specific.
Por favor – Please: the magic word in any language
Olá – Hello. Use this a lot!
Não estou entendendo – I don’t understand.
Você fala inglês? – Do you speak English?
Bom Dia – Good morning.
Como você está? – How are you?
Boa Noite – Good evening.
Eating in Portugal
Fish and pork are two staples in Portugal. The food is generally plain and filling. Accompany it with a few glasses of vinho verde and finish off with a glass (or three) of port wine.
I became quite attached to port on my most recent trip to Portugal when we visited Porto and sampled port across the river in Gaia. Read more in Exploring North and Central Portugal.
Enjoying a glass of port in Gaia overlooking Porto
We enjoyed the best food of our travels in the
Alentejo region where gourmet restaurants are sprouting up to showcase the
local cuisine.
As in Spain, portions in Portugal can be generous.
Be careful not to over-order! These days, Gregg and I often order one dish to
share. We always have enough food and the servers don’t mind.
Staying in Portugal
We’ve had good luck with our accommodations in Portugal (three trips, so far). Service is excellent, rooms are spacious and comfortable, and rates are reasonable, although Lisbon is expensive.
On average, we pay €100 a night for a comfortable three-star hotel, and about €150 for a similar hotel in Lisbon.
The Campania region of southern Italy is packed with swoon-worthy sites. A week in Campania is just about long enough to get a good sense of the area.
And if you have even more time, you won’t run out of things to see!
In this post, I present a suggested itinerary that includes two nights in Naples, three nights in Sorrento on the Amalfi coast, and two nights in off-the-beaten-track Paestum.
If you have more time and you’re driving, you could throw in a night or two in Positano south of Sorrento on the Amalfi coast.
Itinerary at a Glance
Day 1 & 2: Stay in Naples at Palazzorefici and explore the National Archaeological Museum and Pompeii (or Herculaneum)
Day 3, 4, 5: Stay in Sorrent at the Hotel Eden and explore Capri & and Amalfi Coast
Day 6 & 7: Venture south to Paestum and stay at the Hotel Savoy on the coast
Overview
The Campania region of southern Italy is anchored by the sprawling, crazy, fascinating city of Naples. This is where I suggest you start your exploration of the region. Use it as a home base for the first two days, devoting your first day to exploring Naples and then your full day to exploring Pompeii, Herculaneum, and/or Vesuvius.
Then, set off for Sorrento where you’ll home base for three days and take day trips down the Amalfi Coast. Then, scoot back to the highway and tootle south to Paestum.
While the Amalfi coast is extremely tight and can be mobbed. Paestum is relatively peaceful with expansive beaches and the most awesome Greek ruins you’ll find anywhere in the Mediterranean.
First, I provide some tips about getting around the Campania, and then I share my suggestions for what to do and see on each of your seven days in this picturesque and historic region of Italy.
Getting Around Campania
Driving in this area is not for the faint-hearted and not the best idea unless you’re coming from another region of Italy and already have a car.
If you’re flying into Naples, don’t pick up your car until you’re on your way out. Take a taxi to the airport, pick up your rental car, and then head for Sorrento.
If you’d rather not rent a car, modify the itinerary to use a combination of public transit, small group tours, and private transfers.
Another option is to spend the entire week in Sorrento, which is located between Naples and the Amalfi coast, and take day trips from there. You may need to skip Paestum, but you can spend more time on the Amalfi Coast and have a day or two free to just chill or perhaps visit the fabled Isle of Capri.
You’ll spend more time commuting, but you could save money on restaurant meals by renting an apartment for the week.
Plus, there’s something to be said for coming back every evening to the charming ambiance in the historic center of one of southern Italy’s most beguiling towns.
Looking over the Mediterranean from Sorrento
Highlights of your week include visits to Vesuvius and/or Pompeii, the Isle of Capri and the Blue Grotto, the towns of Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi on the stunning Amalfi Coast, and Paestum about two hours farther south on the Mediterranean coast (best with a car).
Day 1: Arrive in Naples
Naples is kind of crazy, which is part of its charm.
Take the train directly from Rome and then take a taxi from the Naples train station to your hotel.
I recommend staying in the Plebiscito area and splurging on a hotel that includes a sweeping view of the Bay of Naples with Vesuvius steaming gently in the distance.
Stunning view over the Bay of Naples
On your first afternoon, take a taxi to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (the National Archeological Museum) which contains one of the world’s finest collections of Greco-Roman artifacts.
A Naples Art Card offers discounted entry into the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and several other major museums in Naples.
Other things to see in Naples include the opulent Palazzo Reale located in the Piazza del Plebiscito and the nearby Castel Nuovo. From the top of the castle ramparts, you’ll enjoy stunning views of Naples and the harbor.
In the evening, stroll through the atmospheric Santa Lucia district–a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets winding from just west of the Piazza del Plebiscito down to the sea.
Stroll along the waterfront overlooking the Gulf of Naples, then dine at one of the many seafood restaurants on the harbor. Here’s Gregg with Mount Vesuvius in the background.
Safety in Naples
Are you safe in Naples? The city has a reputation for petty crime, but how dangerous is it for the tourist? This article gives you the lowdown, but the short answer is yes, you’re safe in Naples.
I never felt unsafe, although I did occasionally get ripped off by taxi drivers. But by and large, I found the people in Naples friendly and enthusiastic.
Day 2: Mt. Vesuvius and Pompeii
You could probably “do” Vesuvius, Pompeii, and Herculaneum on a day trip from Naples, but I don’t recommend it. Instead, choose two of the three sites and enjoy them at a relatively leisurely pace.
I suggest Pompeii and Vesuvius or Vesuvius and Herculaneum. If you’d prefer to skip the mountain, then find a small group tour that goes to both Pompeii and Herculaneum for a thoroughly ruinous day.
The key is to save yourself stress by taking guided tours to these incredible sites. It’s possible to see them via public transit, but unless your budget is really tight, I suggest you give your day over to an experienced guide and then sit back and soak up the landscape and the history.
And if the weather is super hot, I seriously suggest you skip Pompeii and instead enjoy the art of Pompeii at the Naples Archeological Museum in air-conditioned comfort. Touring the Pompeii ruins, where there is no shade and a lot of bare stone, can become too much of an ordeal for this artsy traveler!
Vesuvius
I first scaled Vesuvius in a chair lift on a bitterly cold December day. The views were spectacular as was the proximity to the smoking crater.
Nowadays, you’ll have to hike uphill for a steep 30 minutes to reach the summit. From there, circumnavigate the crater’s lip to enjoy jaw-dropping views of Naples, the Mediterranean, and Pompeii.
Mount Vesuvius looming behind the ruins of the Forum in Pompeii
The eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD buried the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum in ash and lava. For eighteen hours, the mountain spewed ash, dust and rocks twelve miles into the sky. The poor folks in Pompeii and Herculaneum didn’t have a chance.
Here’s a tour from Naples that includes Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius:
The most poignant thing about Pompeii’s ancient ruins is their frozen-in-time quality. Volcanic ash has preserved the bodies of people and animals twisted in the final throes of death.
Plaster cast of Pompeii victims
You also get a remarkable look at everyday life. You’ll see electoral propaganda messages painted on walls, elegant villas, modest houses, peasant dwellings, and even squalid brothels.
Walk through narrow lanes to see the remains of workshops complete with furniture, tools, lamps, and foodstuffs. One of my favorite things was seeing the ruts cut into the stone roads by chariot wheels.
Amazing frescoes decorate the walls of Casa della Fontana Piccola in Pompeii.
You need to spend at least an afternoon in Pompeii. If you’re a big fan of Roman ruins, choose a day tour that gives you plenty of time to explore the ancient ruins.
If you have the energy, walk to the Villa of the Mysteries where you’ll find some of the best-preserved frescoes still in situ in Pompeii.
Frescoes from most of the other villas in the city have long since been removed to the Naples Archeological Museum.
Herculaneum
Allow yourself time to visit Herculaneum. Although smaller than Pompeii, Herculaneum is richer, with larger houses, more impressive mosaics, and better-preserved ruins.
More complete houses remain because the ash from Vesuvius destroyed Herculaneum in a different way than it did Pompeii. In Pompeii, falling ash collapsed many of the roofs, whereas the ash fell more slowly over Herculaneum, covering and preserving wood and other organic objects.
Herculaneum is less crowded than Pompeii and much smaller, with better frescoes and mosaics. However, much of the city is yet to be excavated.
Second Evening in Naples – Pizza!
In the evening, find a pizza place and enjoy Naples’s most famous food export. The pizza in Naples really is amazing!
And if you have time, why not combine dinner with a pizza-making cooking class! Here’s an option on GetYourGuide:
Take the train from Naple to the charming town of Sorrento or catch the ferry from Naples. Or, as noted earlier, pick up your rental car from the airport and drive to Sorrento.
On a recent visit to Campania, I parked on the outskirts of Naples rather than risk driving into the city (wise move!). At the end of my Naples stay, I took a taxi to the parking lot and then carried on to Sorrento.
On another trip, I took a taxi to Sorrento from our hotel in Naples and got into trouble when the driver demanded payment upon our arrival at the hotel in Sorrento. I’d already paid the manager of the hotel in Naples for the taxi. Unfortunately, we’d mistakenly taken the wrong taxi at the Naples hotel.
The driver spoke only Italian and was very angry with the stupid tourists who didn’t want to pay twice for the ride. Fortunately, the manager of the hotel in Sorrento called the Naples manager, and, after much yelling and gesticulating, during which time I was sure blows would be traded, everything was sorted out. The taxi driver grudgingly shook our hands and presumably drove back to Naples to get his money.
I haven’t taken the ferry to Sorrento, but it seems like a great option. The ride is scenic and takes only 45 minutes. Purchase tickets here.
Hanging Out in Sorrento
Lemon trees and palm trees, houses clinging to cliffs, stunning views of the coast and the turquoise Mediterranean–this area of southern Italy is postcard-perfect.
And Sorrento makes the perfect home base to explore the area.
Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast
The whole point of Sorrento is to slow down and relax. Amble along the small streets and enjoy la dolce vita. If you’re into shopping, Sorrento is the place to buy inlaid wooden boxes. I still have the wooden music box I bought on my first trip to Sorrento in the 1970s.
Sorrento is also a good place to buy cameos. Unfortunately, I lost the pink cameo I bought there. I still miss that cameo.
In the early evening, join the locals for the passeggiata. Families and couples dress up and stroll the shady streets, talking and laughing, gelatos in hand. The bars are full, and everything seems right with the world.
Day 4: Visit Capri
If the weather is fine, book a boat tour to the fabled island of Capri and its Blue Grotto. Yes, Capri can get crowded, but it’s drop-dead gorgeous, with its white limestone cliffs, azure views of the Tyrrhenian Sea, and tumbling gardens.
Catch an early hydrofoil from Sorrento to avoid the cruise-ship crowds that clog the streets by midday.
A visit to Capri’s Blue Grotto is worth the time and effort required to get there, even if you’re only in the grotto soaking up the blue for a few minutes.
The Blue Grotto is a sea cave famous for its luminous blue light and shimmering waters accessible only in a tiny dinghy through a narrow entranceway.
Duck!
A boat you catch on Capri stops at the grotto and waits while you board the dinghy and are rowed into the grotto. If you’re prone to seasickness, pop a Gravol before leaving the dock in Capri.
Blue Grotto, Capri, Italy
Scrambling into the little dingy from the larger boat can be either entertaining or terrifying, depending on your fitness level and tolerance for danger.
I didn’t ask the guide how many people fall into the water every year. I suspect he wouldn’t have wanted to tell me.
The Blue Grotto is open year round, weather permitting. I visited on a sunny day in late December. Here’s a tour from Sorrento with GetYourGuide:
Continue home-basing in Sorrento and take a day trip to visit the Amalfi coast, or pull up stakes and make Positano your home for two nights. I suggest the latter to give you a more intimate feel for this charming town that tumbles down the cliff to the Mediterranean.
Devote an afternoon to visiting the town of Amalfi to view its colorful houses and stroll the beach.
Positano and romance go hand in hand. Did you ever see Only You with Marisa Tomei? The scenes in Positano are some of the movie’s most beautiful. If you have a lot of money, stay at the Sirenuse Hotel where scenes from the movie were shot.
Visit Positano to steep yourself in beauty. Wander the tiny streets, gaze out at the views, snap hundreds of photos, eat great food, and just relax.
If you’re home-basing in Sorrento, consider a boat trip down the Amalfi Coast:
If you’re driving, backtrack to Sorrento and get back out to the highway connecting Naples to the south, and head farther south to marvelous Paestum.
You can also keep driving along the coast, but the road is very winding and the trip will take longer.
In Paestum, you’ll find some of the best preserved Greek temples in the world (including in Greece!). I really enjoyed spending a few days in this lovely area of southern Italy.
Paestum feels off the beaten track, although in the summer months, the beaches can get crowded, mostly with Europeans on vacation.
Give yourself plenty of time to explore the three Greek temples at Paestum and the charming archeological museum. The temples are incredibly well-preserved, with columns that must be seen to be appreciated.
Photos can’t capture the sheer enormity of these columns that were built to hold up the temples 2,500 years ago.
Consider a small group guided tour of the temples and the archeological museum. You’ll learn a great deal about this amazing archeological site.
Stay in a hotel near the beach and take a day off from your vacation. Some of the hotels, such as the Hotel Savoy where I stayed for two nights have beach clubs overlooking the sea where you can relax on a sun lounger while sipping a limoncello.
Where to Stay in Campania
Naples
Here are two options, both of which I’ve stayed in and recommend:
The Hotel Paradiso is located on Posillipo Hill, the hotel has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.
The Palazzorefici is a stylish apartment deep in the heart of Naples on a tiny side street. It’s close to a main street where you can easily get taxis to where you want to go in Naples.
Sorrento
The Hotel Eden has a central location in Sorrento, with rooms on the upper floors overlooking the stunning view of the Bay of Naples. Lush gardens and a pool provide a welcome oasis. This is a good choice for Sorrento, although not budget-friendly.
Positano
Prices are high in this holiday mecca, so if Positano is above your price range, consider staying longer in Sorrento and taking a day tour down the Amalfi coast.
In Positano, the über posh Sirenuse Hotel is über expensive, but if you’re budget runs to it – wowee! Scenes from Only You were filmed there.
A more budget-friendly option is the Villa Antonietta that still has sea views but is much more modestly appointed.
Paestum
The Hotel Savoy, steps from the beach near Paestum is an awesome place to stay. It’s super luxurious and yet surprisingly affordable.
Here’s the view of the reflecting pool from our room.
Conclusion
Have you visited the Campania? Add your suggestions in the comments below. For more posts about Italy, check out:
Art masterpieces in Tuscany are as thick on the ground as grapes at harvest time.
When you visit Tuscany, you’ll enjoy la dolce vita, for sure, but in between sips of some of the world’s best wine, prepare to have your breath taken away by some of the world’s most cherished art.
Let’s face it, Tuscany is the perfect storm for art lovers with its stunning scenery, amazing food, tons of history, and world-class art.
In this post, I present a selection of the art masterpieces to consider including in your Tuscany travels—whether this is your first trip or your tenth (or somewhere in between).
Top Masterpieces at a Glance
Paintings by Martini, da Vinci, Botticelli & Artemisia at the Uffizi in Florence
You’ll recognize some of the art included in this post, but others you may not be familiar with. I include both individual masterworks and art destinations in Tuscany.
A few of my suggested places are a fair way off the beaten path which means they won’t be crowded.
Organization
I’ve grouped the art by location:
Florence
Villa Demidoff (Outside Florence)
San Gimignano
Siena
Il Giardino dei Tarocchi near Grosseto
The map of Tuscany below shows the general locations of the pieces covered in this post. See individual places for more detailed maps.
My list is in no way exhaustive. Tuscany is chock-a-block with magnificent art, and to list all of them requires books, not blog posts. This list is a starting point to help you create your own perfect Tuscany itinerary.
Art in Florence
For many travelers to Tuscany, Florence, birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, is their only destination, which is a shame.
This wonderful city is worth visiting, and you’ll see amazing art galore, but it’s also extremely crowded and lacks the charm of other, smaller Tuscan towns, such as Siena and Lucca.
Duomo in Florence, Italy
That said, if you haven’t been to Florence, then you should include it on your itinerary. Stay at least two nights and preferably three or four.
You won’t run out of important works of art to enjoy.
Map of Florence
Florence is a very walkable and compact city. You can easily stroll between each of the main sites.
The Uffizi Gallery in Florence is masterpiece-central in Tuscany and a must-see. But be warned! You really, really need to make reservations for the Uffizi.
Don’t just show up hoping to walk right in. That is, unless you enjoy standing in long lines that move an inch a minute while all the people with pre-purchased tickets whisk by. It’s disheartening.
Here’s a ticket option for the Uffizi that includes a small group guided tour.
The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333)
That’s a mouthful. I just call it Martini’s Annunciation. The subject of the annunciation—when the angel Gabriel flutters to earth and informs the Virgin Mary that she is to be the mother of Christ—was popular in medieval and Renaissance art.
I love this version by Martini and Memmi because of the expression on Mary’s face. She’s like, what? Seriously?
The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333) [Public domain]
I’m also taken with the gold background and the flatness of the figures, a characteristic of 14th century art.
You’ll come across Martini’s Annunciation shortly after entering the Uffizi. A lot of people trudge right past it on a beeline for the more famous paintings by Botticelli, da Vinci, et al, but stop in the galleries of 14th-century paintings and spend some time.
You’ll be well rewarded and won’t be jostling for viewing room with thousands of selfie-stick wielders.
Annunciation by da Vinci
In later centuries, Annunciations, such as the famous one by Leonardo da Vinci below, look more realistic, but I like the energy and composition of the Martini one the best.
Since the art in the Uffizi is arranged chronologically, you’ll see da Vinci’s Annunciation after you view the Martini and Memmi version.
The Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci: Public Domain
Birth of Venus by Botticelli (1485)
You’ve probably seen many reproductions of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. The goddess of beauty and love arrives on the island of Cyprus, born of the sea spray and blown by the winds Zephyr and Aura (seen in the top left corner).
Venus perches on the edge of a giant scallop shell as goddesses are wont to do. She’s just so danged perfect.
I mean, look at that hair!
Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli: Public Domain
The room containing several paintings by Botticelli is generally really crowded. If possible, visit the Uffizi early or late in the day so you can swoon in relative solitude.
Other Works by Botticelli
In addition to Birth of Venus, you’ll also see Botticelli’s equally famous Primavera along with several more of his paintings exhibited in four consecutive rooms.
And once you’ve finished looking at the real things, you can buy them on just about every knick-knack known to humanity in the many gift shops lining the streets of the city.
Primavera mouse pad? Sure. Birth of Venus apron? Definitely.
Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi
Hooray for Artemisia Gentileschi, one of the first recognized woman artists of the Baroque period. Several other women artists from the period (and earlier) have gained notice in recent years, but Artemisia is the one most people think of when asked to name a woman artist from back in the day.
She was also the first woman to be admitted to the Academy of Art and Design in Florence, which was no small feat at the time.
Artemisia’s painting of Judith beheading poor old Holofernes (hey, he deserved it) is an amazing work. Look at Judith’s muscles as she holds down Holofernes.
This subject was a favorite of the period, and male artists usually depicted Judith as a bit of an ethereal wimp. Not Artemisia. She doesn’t shy away from showing the sheer brute strength that Judith would need to saw the head off a man.
She and her maid are working hard!
Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi: Public Domain
Two Amazing Davids
That’s Davids plural because in Florence you must see the super-famous David by Michelangelo as well as the not-quite-so-famous-but still-awesome David by Donatello.
Both Davids represent the Renaissance in different ways.
Michelangelo’s David
The most famous statue of David is the one created by Michelangelo and displayed in the Accademia, another place for which you must secure reservations or risk a long line-up.
David stands with magnificent insouciance at the end of a long hallway lined with other works by Michelangelo.
Some of these works are unfinished—human figures emerging half-formed from marble blocks. I like these works almost more than the finished sculptures because they show the process of turning blocks into humans.
Michelangelo’s David in the Accademia Gallery
When you finally work your way up to the front of the line and stand in front of David in all his naked glory, you’ll know what all the fuss is about.
He is magnificent.
Although sculpted from marble, the muscles and sinews appear to pulse with life. Every inch of him is perfection—a testament to the beauty and power of the human form.
I remember wandering around the back of him and staring up at a pair of buttocks that any gym rat would kill for. While thinking unholy thoughts, I was joined by a bevy of nuns. They weren’t speaking English, so I couldn’t understand what they were saying, but they were definitely smiling—and, truth be told, giggling.
Well, no wonder.
Here’s an topin for purchasing your timed-entry ticket to see Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia.
Donatello’s David at the marvelous Bargello Museum (reservations also recommended) might as well be a different species.
Where Michelangelo’s marble-carved David is tall, strong, and, let’s face it, hunky, Donatello’s bronze David is relaxed, laid-back, and kind of pretty.
He wears a hat festooned with flowers and leans on his sword, one hand on his hip. He’s like, come on Goliath, I dare ya to come at me.
Donatello’s David is famous for being the first free-standing bronze sculpture since antiquity.
The Bargello Museum—a former prison—includes many more wonderful artworks to enjoy, including sculptures by Benvenuto Cellini and works by Michelangelo, including his statue of Bacchus.
Fra Angelico at the Museo di San Marco
The Museo di San Marco is a little off the beaten path which means it’s not crowded—a relief in Florence.
The museum is housed in the former Dominican Monastery (called the Convento di San Marco) where Fra’ Angelico lived as a monk from 1436 to 1455 and painted his stunning frescoes.
Wander down the long corridor flanked on either side by the monk’s cells and stop at each cell to view Fra’ Angelico’s frescoes. I love the way he painted angel wings—very art deco-looking and colorful.
Annunciation by Fra Angelico in Cell 3: Public Domain
The museum contains numerous frescoes by Fra’ Angelico, including the magnificent fresco in the Chapter House and his famous version of the Annunciation located at the top of the stairs leading to the cells. As I mentioned, I’m partial to Annunciations, and Fra’ Angelico’s version is one of the best.
Savonarola: A Burning Tale
You can also peek into the cell once occupied by the infamous Savonarola, who preached vociferously against greed and luxury and denounced clerical corruption, despotic rule, and the exploitation of the poor.
Unfortunately for Savonarola, he went too far with his well-intended but over-the-top spectacles, including his Bonfires of the Vanities, and ended up hanged and burned in 1498.
Oops.
Brancacci Chapel
The attraction at the lovely Brancacci Chapel across the Arno in a quieter and less touristy area of Florence are the gorgeous frescoes by Masaccio and Masolino. The Chapel is located away from the tourist hordes and requires a pleasantly long walk through a Florentine neighborhood in which people actually live.
I stopped for lunch at a café with three tiny tables perched on the edge of the sidewalk and enjoyed being the only tourist in the vicinity.
I was entertained watching a group of well-heeled, impeccably dressed Florentine businessmen lunching nearby. Each man looked like he’d stepped straight out of one of the Renaissance frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel.
Substitute business suits for tights and cloaks and not much has changed.
The Healing of Tabitha by Masolino at the Brancacci Chapel: Public Domain
Admission to the Brancacci Chapel is limited so purchase your tickets in advance. Tickets from this site let you skip the line, and provide a video guide.
You’ll be struck by the vivid colors in the Masaccio and Masolino frescoes commissioned in 1424. The Expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise is especially evocative.
Other Suggestions for Florence
Palazzo Davanzati
Tour this medieval palazzo to discover what life was like for wealthy people in the early Renaissance. I had a great visit even though the guided tour was in Italian.
It didn’t matter; I could still get a good idea of how people lived.
A highlight is the painted walls in many of the rooms. When I was writing my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, I often envisioned the layout of the rooms in the Palazzo Davanzati as I wrote.
Here’s an option for a private guided tour of the Palazzo Davanzati, which would be well worth your time if you are interested in how rich people lived seven hundred-odd years ago.
Treat yourself to a refreshing walk through these beautiful gardens with spectacular views over Florence and the Tuscan countryside.
The beautifully green Boboli Gardens
When it’s hot (as it often is in the summer), do yourself a favor and escape the crush of tour groups in the center of the city and take a taxi across the Arno to the Boboli Gardens.
Florence overflows with interesting museums and churches and artwork to keep you busy for days.
And don’t forget shopping! Florence is the place in Tuscany to buy leather goods (although they can be cheaper in Siena but without as much choice).
Tours in Florence
Here are some Get Your Guide tour options in Florence.
In the gardens of the Villa Demidoff in Pratolino, about ten kilometers north of Florence in the beautiful Tuscan countryside, you can visit the aptly named Colossus. A seated figure that appears to be half rock, half man broods on an outcropping above a pond.
I adore this statue!
It’s just so darned unexpected. We visited a hot summer’s day and were captivated. The 35-foot tall Colossus is a colossal (ha!) statue created in the late 1500s by the Italian sculptor Giambologna.
Colossus at the Villa Demidoff
Despite his size, Colossus looks quite melancholy, as if he wished he could rise from the rocks keeping him captive and clomp off to a quiet grove where no one would take selfies with him.
Inside Colossus are various chambers.
Other Sites in the Gardens
The gardens are home to several more interesting features, including the hexagonal Chapel of Buontalenti, a fantastic dragon sculpture behind Colossus, the Cupid’s grotto, and the fountain of Jupiter.
The park is open every weekend from April to October, and admission is free. Before you go, check opening times on the park website.
For a good day out, rent a car and drive north to enjoy the park and the surrounding area, then have dinner in Fiesole while watching the sun set over Florence in the valley below.
You can also take a bus to Pratolino: catch the ATAF bus #25A from Piazza San Marco – the “A” is important. SITA also offers service to Pratolino from the main stop in SMN Piazza Stazione and CAP, with stops on Via Nazionale in Florence.
Art Masterpieces in Siena
Hands down, Siena is my favorite city in Tuscany. I never tire of wandering its narrow streets and then emerging, dazzled by the sun, into the Piazza del Campo—or Il Campo.
Called the most beautiful living room in Italy, Il Campo takes my breath away every time.
The breathtaking Campo
The first time I went to Siena by myself, I was so overcome with emotion by finally making it to the Campo, where several important scenes in my novel The Towers of Tuscany take place, that I dropped to my knees, lay down on my back, and took a selfie.
Relaxing on the 14th-century bricks of the Campo in Siena
Fortunately, no one batted an eye. Several people were doing the same, their backs warmed by bricks laid in the 1330s, not long before the Black Death carried away half of the medieval city’s population.
Siena is very compact, which is a good thing because the only way to get around is by walking. Fortunately, you can stroll between the two major sites–the cathedral and the palazzo publicco in just a few minutes. Use the map below to orient yourself.
I single out the Piccolomini Library as one of two must-see masterpieces in Siena, but really, the entire cathedral (also known as the Duomo) is worth a half-day of your touring time.
You can skip the line by buying your tickets ahead. Your ticket is also good for the baptistery, crypt, and the Opera museum—all must-sees.
Cathedral Square and Duomo
Cathedral of Siena
A superb example of the Gothic Roman style in Italy, the Cathedral (the Duomo) is full of treasures. Marvel at the Duomo’s indoor and outdoor alternating stripes in white and greenish-black marble.
Black and white are the symbolic colors of Siena.
Unlike the sparse interiors of some cathedrals in Italy, the interior of the Duomo is fantastically decorated.
Overlooking the Duomo
Look for the statue of St. John the Baptist by Donatello to the right after the Piccolomini Library, the rose window by Duccio di Buoninsegna, and the marble pulpit by Nicola Pisano, along with many gorgeous frescoes.
One of the most beautiful parts of the cathedral is its floor. You can spend hours wandering around the huge mosaics to “read” the stories.
The fifty-six etched and inlaid marble panels were designed between 1369 and 1547 by forty leading artists.
Piccolomini Library
And then there’s the Piccolomini Library itself. This place was a surprise to me. I hadn’t heard of it and so was in for a treat when I entered and had the breath knocked out of me (figuratively speaking).
Ceiling in the Piccolomini Library
The library is dedicated to Enea Silvio Piccolomini, an immensely powerful man in the mid 1400s who was elected Pope Pius II in 1458.
The big draw in the library are the frescoes by Pinturicchio.
Each of the ten scenes representing important stages in the life of Pope Pius II is exquisitely painted. The colors, perspective, figures, and backgrounds are incredibly detailed and evocative of their time. I was mesmerized.
Maestà Altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna
While you’re hanging around the Duomo, don’t miss the Opera museum (it’s part of your ticket) so you can admire the Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna that was commissioned by the cathedral in 1311.
I like the altarpiece because it’s gorgeous and because it makes a cameo appearance in my novel, The Towers of Tuscany.
Central panel of the Maestà, 1308–1311, by Duccio di Buoninsegna. Museo dell’Opera metropolitana del Duomo, Italy
Palazzo Pubblico
You can’t miss the Palazzo Pubblico in Il Campo. The much-photographed red brick palazzo that looks like a child’s drawing of a castle has become one of the most recognized views in Siena. I’ve taken my share of photos of it and the adjacent Torre Mangia.
Palazzo Pubblico
The Palazzo Pubblico dates from the early 14th century and played an important role in ensuring Siena enjoyed relative peace from the late 13th century to 1355.
While you tour the Museo Civico, read about the “Government of the Nine”, the system of government that consisted of nine representatives of the people elected from the middle class and not from the noble families. This relatively democratic form of government was responsible for commissioning many civic works of art in the first half of the 14th century.
Museo Civico – Torre Mangia
The Museo Civico is located on the first floor of the Palazzo Pubblico, which still functions as Siena’s city hall.
Enter the courtyard called the Cortile del Podestà to access the Museo Civico and, if you’re feeling energetic, climb the 400 steps to the top of the Torre Mangia.
The view is spectacular, but the narrow staircase is claustrophobic and, in the summer, very hot. I’ve climbed the Torre Mangia once and do not feel the need to do so again.
Frescoes in Sala del Mappamondo
There are plenty of interesting things to look at in the Museo Civico, but the big draw are the frescoes by Simone Martini and Ambrogio Lorenzetti.
The two large frescoes by Simone Martini are located in the massive hall called Sala del Mappamondo. You can’t miss it. To your left as you enter the hall is the Maestà by Simone Martini. The gorgeous fresco shows the Madonna seated on a throne with the Child and surrounded by angels and saints. Note all the haloes!
Maestà by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico: Public Domai
Turn around and at the other end of the hall you’ll see the fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano, a general on his horse with the castles he just conquered in the distance. You’ll see reproductions of this piece in a lot of souvenir shops.
I love how Guidoriccio and his horse are wearing the same ensemble. Very stylish.
Fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain
Frescoes in the Sala dei Nove
Now walk into the Sala dei Nove—the Hall of the Nine—to see Siena’s most famous masterpiece: the fresco cycle called Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti.
You’ll get a sore neck looking up at the three wall-size frescoes, famous because they’re interesting to look at and because they depict secular subjects instead of religious ones—a rarity at the time (1340s).
I love the girls dancing in the Good Government fresco (pictured below). Take a seat and enjoy gazing up at the frescoes. Whenever I’ve been to the Sala dei Novel, I’ve been pretty much alone.
Although famous, these frescoes aren’t that famous which means you’re likely able to enjoy them crowd-free.
Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Pubblico: Public Domain
Other Suggestions for Siena
Siena is worth at least two days of your time, although people often squeeze it in as an afternoon trip from Florence. Please don’t do that!
Compared to overcrowded Florence, this wonderful small city is a medieval treat. Make room in your itinerary for a proper visit so you have ample time to get to know this delightful city. You won’t find many big-ticket sites, but that’s not the point of Siena.
Here are some options for touring Siena and other nearby locations:
And when you’re not enjoying the art, spend time wandering the back streets of Siena.
Enjoy a cappuccino in one of the cafés overlooking the Campo and buy yourself a leather purse or two. They are far more reasonably priced here than in Florence. My collection is growing!
Art Masterpieces in San Gimignano
San Gimignano is overrun with tourists and crammed with tacky tourist shops. And yet I love it!
Every time we visit Tuscany, we stay for a few days in the vicinity of San Gimignano. We usually spend the day either touring around the countryside or staying put in our hotel to write (me) and draw (Gregg).
San Gimignano
Then, towards the end of the afternoon when the parking lots surrounding Gimignano start to empty, we venture forth.
By 4 or 5 pm, the tour busses have lumbered off, the merchants are standing outside their shops taking a much-needed break, the hot streets are shaded by the towers, and the whole town seems to exhale with relief.
Stroll virtually deserted side streets in search of art and food (in that order). For a small hill town, San Gimignano punches above its weight in excellent restaurants.
You’ll see a lot of art in San Gimignano, but don’t miss these two sites which fortunately are close to each other:
Palazzo Comunale in the Civic Museum
Located next to the Duomo, the Civic Museum also includes the Torre Grossa—the tallest of San Gimignano’s seventeen towers and the only one you can climb.
I have climbed it, and it’s worth doing, but the real draw are the frescoes in the chamber of the Podestà in the Palazzo Comunale (which also has other good art to enjoy).
View from the top of the Torre Grossa in San Gimignano
Snares of Love
The series of frescoes is called the “snares of love”, painted by Memmo di Filippucio between 1303 to 1310.
Scenes show both profane love and scenes from marriage. I love the secular nature of these frescoes, especially the one where the young married couple share a bathtub.
One of the frescoes in the Palazzo Comunale Civic Museum in San Gimignano
Frescoes in the Duomo of San Gimignano
The Duomo also contains an amazing number and variety of frescoes. Every wall on both sides of the nave is filled with frescoes, most dating from the 1300s.
The vivid colors are original; the frescoes have never required restoration.
Get the audio guide and walk slowly around the frescoes, picking out scene after scene from the Old and New Testaments. Even if you’re not into Bible stories, you can’t help but be entranced by these frescoes. I enjoy studying the clothing and the facial expressions for inspiration.
Pick up a ticket to the Museum of Sacred Art in the Duomo that includes an audio guide from this link.
Other Suggestions for San Gimignano
Climb to the top of the ruined Fortezza (fortress) at the highest point in San Gimignano to enjoy spectacular views over the countryside.
Even when the main street is heaving with sweaty tourists, the Fortezza is usually virtually empty.
San Gimignano 1300
One of my favorite museums in San Gimignano is San Gimignano 1300, located in a side street close to the Piazzale Comunale.
Here you’ll view a scale model of San Gimignano as it appeared in 1300.
You may also be able to pick up a copy ofThe Towers of Tuscany at San Gimignano 1300. I first visited the exhibit back in 2011 when I was researching my novel, and have returned many times since.
Here is where you’ll see a stunning collection of whimsical sculptures by modern artist Niki Saint Phalle. The sculptures are based on the Tarot cards and are a must-see if you’re looking for something far off the beaten path.
And the sculptures are a nice break from the medieval and Renaissance masterpieces that make up most of the art in Tuscany.
We spent a full hour wandering around the gardens on a hot afternoon in September. Although I took tons of photographs, they don’t do the sculptures justice. You have to visit the gardens and touch the sculptures, walk inside them, and sit on them to fully appreciate them.
When you go, check the website for the current opening hours. Usually, the gardens are open daily from April 1 to October 15 from 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm. In the winter, the gardens are open only on the first Saturday of the month from 9 am to 1 pm.
Where to Stay in Tuscany
I don’t think I’ve ever stayed in a sub-standard place in Tuscany. You are spoiled for choice! While prices will not be low if you’re looking for comfort and convenience (my two must-haves!), you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous views, friendly proprietors and il dolce vita!
Here are four of my favorite places I’ve stayed around Tuscany:
Sant’Antonio Country Resort near Montelpulciano: Fantastic place to kick back and relax. Stay for a week! I write a whole post about my experience staying there.
Agriturismo Casanova di Pescille near San Gimignano: You’ll need a car, but this place (and a handful more in the area) is just about perfect.
Serristori Palace Residence in Florence: this spacious apartment is right on the river and about a ten minute walk into the center of Florence. Highly recommended.
I Merli di Ada in Siena: this place is delightful! It’s very centrally located with lovely hosts and a comfy and spacious room.
Summary
My list of must-see art masterpieces barely scratches the surface of all the wonderful art you can enjoy when you slow down and take time to get to know Tuscany in all its glory.
Plan to spend two weeks enjoying the many beautiful towns and villages: Montalcino, Montepulciano, Lucca, Pisa, Volterra…the list goes on. Take a walking holiday or book into an agritourism property and settle in for a week of great food and long, warm days.
In the heart of Granada, a family witnesses the worst horrors of the Spanish Civil War. Divided by politics and tragedy, everyone must choose a side, fighting a personal battle as Spain tears itself apart. With wonderful scenes featuring flamenco, this novel is a must-read for Spain bound travelers.
Dulcinea is a feminist reimagining of Cervantes’s Dolça, the fictional muse behind Don Quixote. The daughter of a wealthy merchant, young Dolça Llull Prat is besotted with the dashing, bootstrapping Miguel Cervantes from their first meeting. When Miguel renders her as the lowly Dulcinea in his great Quixote, revealing their association, he commits an unforgivable offense, and their decades-long affinity is severed—until he reaches out to her one last time.
Presented as a fictionalized autobiography, The Master of the Prado begins in Madrid in 1990, when Sierra encounters a mysterious stranger named Luis Fovel within the halls of the Prado. Fovel takes him on a whirlwind tour and promises to uncover startling secrets hidden in the museum’s masterpieces—secrets that open up a whole new world to Sierra.
This a dual-time novel about artists and identity. Esther Markstrom and her artist mother have always been proud of their ancestor, painter Francisco Vella. They even run a small museum and gallery dedicated to raising awareness of his scandalously underappreciated work. But when Esther reconnects with her former art history professor, she finds her once-solid family history on shaky ground as questions arise about Vella’s greatest work–a portrait entitled The Lady with the Dark Hair.
When art historian Cate Adamson discovers a hidden painting, possibly a Baroque masterpiece, she risks her career, financial disaster, and further alienation from her family and flees to Spain with the painting to consult art experts.
Following her birth 1500, Renaissance-era artist Mira is raised in a Pyrenees convent believing she is an orphan until she learns the terrible truth about her true origins, and must determine whether she possesses the strength to face those who would wish her harm.
Listed in the Literature category on Art In Fiction, The Lines Between Us is a dual-time book that takes place in Madrid in 1661 and Missouri in 1992. The connection between the two eras leads Rachel in 1992 to try healing the wounds caused by her mother’s lifelong reticence.
The bequest of a cello bow sets Feliu on the path to becoming a musician, an unlikely destiny given his beginnings in a dusty Catalonian village. When he is forced to flee to anarchist Barcelona, his education in music, life, and politics begins.
Barcelona, 1945: A city slowly heals in the aftermath of the Spanish Civil War, and Daniel, an antiquarian book dealer’s son who mourns his mother’s death, finds comfort in a mysterious book entitled The Shadow of the Wind, by one Julián Carax. But when he sets out to find the author’s other works, he makes a shocking discovery: someone has been systematically destroying every copy of every book Carax has written.
Want more novels set in Spain? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.
Guidebooks About Spain
My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on Spain. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.
Tours Around Spain
Visit some of the destinations mentioned in the featured novel. This 5-day tour that starts in Madrid, takes you to Cordoba, Seville, Granada, and Toledo.
Have you read a novel set in Spain, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Check out these posts that provide suggestions for what to read in other European countries:
The Anatomy Lesson takes readers through a single day in Golden Age Amsterdam when the city is preparing for the Winter Festival: executions, followed by a public dissection, and then a feast and torch parade through the city.
History and fiction merge seamlessly in a novel about artistic vision and sensual awakening set in 1664 in Delft. Young Griet goes to work in the household of the great painter Johannes Vermeer and is immortalized in canvas and paint.
This historical biographical novel tells the story of Judith Leyster, a Dutch painter from the 17th century whose work was lost to history until 1893. The novel richly weaves the journey of a woman of ambition set against the backdrop of Rembrandt and an uncompromising religion.
Inspired by real events in the artist’s life, The Rembrandt Secret is an historical thriller that follows a deadly serial killer who is wreaking havoc across London and New York.
Book 4 in Jennifer S. Alderson’s Zelda Richardson Mystery series revolves around the discovery of a missing portrait by Johannes Vermeer that results in a dangerous game of cat-and-mouse with unethical art collectors, unscrupulous dealers, and an all-too-real killer.
Seventeenth-century Amsterdam is a city in the grip of tulip fever. To celebrate growing wealthy from this exotic new flower, a merchant commissions a gifted young artist to paint him with his beautiful bride. But as the portrait grows, so does the passion between his wife and the painter; and ambitions, desires, and dreams breed an intricate deception and a reckless gamble.
When ancient notebooks surface in a Long Island garage, Peter Van Overloop, a Columbia grad student, sets about translating them, and finds himself immersed in the life and times of the Dutch painter Frans Hals. The notebooks appear to be Hal’s diaries, and they paint a gripping portrait of a man living in the age of Rembrandt and Descartes, and bursting with a lust for the world surrounding him.
Textiles historian Jo Baaker returns to the Dutch island where she was born, to investigate the provenance of a valuable 17th-century silk dress retrieved from a sunken shipwreck. Her research leads her to Anna Tesseltje, a poor Amsterdam laundress who served on the fringes of the Dutch court. But how did Anna come to possess such a precious dress?
In 1660, Amsterdam is the trading and map-printing capital of the world. Anneke van Brug is one of the colorists paid to enhance black-and-white maps for a growing number of collectors. But Anneke is not content to simply embellish the work of others; she longs to create maps of her own.
In this 17th-century historical romance, gifted artist Clara Peeters has to make sacrifices and risk everything to pursue her craft. Together with fellow pupil Nico, the two find themselves surrounded by dangerous secrets and powerful enemies. But in the face of so much past pain, can something as fragile as love survive?
Want more novels set in the Netherlands? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.
Guidebooks About the Netherlands
My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on the Netherlands. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.
Tours Around the Netherlands
While reading one of my featured novels, you may want to explore more of the Netherlands on a bus tour. On this tour that starts and ends in Amsterdam, you’ll see traditional 17th-century houses and windmills in the Dutch countryside and visit Zaanse Schans, Volendam, Edam, and Marken.
Have you read a novel set in the Netherlands, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Check out these posts that provide suggestions for what to read in other European countries:
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