Get the Best Out of Southwest England on a Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

Consider taking a Rabbie’s small group tour of Southwest England to discover one of England’s most beautiful (and visited) regions.

When I travel on my own, I often take small group tours so I can efficiently explore local sites. Usually, I opt for day tours (see my posts about tours in the Cotswolds and Yorkshire). But on a recent, longer trip to the UK, I chose a four-day, three-night small group tour of Devon and Cornwall with Rabbie’s Tours.

Based in Edinburgh, Scotland, Rabbie’s operates dozens of tours throughout the United Kingdom and Europe. Their reviews are excellent and the prices reasonable. I figured I couldn’t lose—and I was right. In this post, I present a day-by-day account of what I experienced on my four-day, three-night Rabbie’s small group tour, starting in Bristol.

Spoiler Alert: I cheerfully recommend a Rabbie’s small group tour, particularly if your time is limited.

Map of Southwest England: Locations Visited

The map of Southwest England below shows the locations I visited. I stayed in Falmouth (#5) for two nights and Exeter (#23) for one night. Click a number to read more about the location.

Setting Off on a Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England

Bright and early at 8:00 am on September 1, I’m out front of the Doubletree Hilton Hotel in Bristol (#22 on the map), where I meet the first two people I’ll be touring with, a couple from Virginia in the US. They tell me this will be their fourth Rabbie’s small group tour. This bodes well since they have only positive things to say about the tours they’ve taken to Wales and Scotland.

We board and soon stake out our personal space for the next four days. With the entire 16-seat van at our disposal, we each have our own row. It’s delightful to spread out across two seats with another across the aisle rather than having to share the admittedly narrow seats with a stranger for four days.

Matt, a guide with Rabbie’s Tours, in front of his van for the multi-day Southwest England tour
Matt, our guide and driver

Day 1: Somerset to Cornwall on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England

We pull away from the hotel and head out of Bristol. I settle into my seat and listen to Matt when he’s talking and then think when he’s not. Notebook open and pen at the ready, I alternate between jotting down notes about what we’re seeing and planning two new novels.

Matt reviews our itinerary for the day. We’ll travel west from Bristol along the north coast of Somerset, across Exmoor in Devon and then angle southwest to Falmouth on the south coast of Cornwall—our home base for two of the three nights. He uses arrow stickies to show our route on the large map of southern England pinned above the front window.

Map of England showing the Southwest Rabbie’s Tour
Map with stickies showing our route on days 3 and 4 of the Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England

Over the next four days, I’ll enjoy studying the map not only to follow our route but also to remember many of the places I visited when I lived in England back in the 1970s.

First Stop on the Rabbie’s Small Group Tour: Dunster in Somerset

Dunster (#1) is the home of the impressive Dunster Castle that we can only admire from afar. Since on Day 1 we must cover 225 miles, with a long stop at Tintagel, we only have time for a quick stop to wander Dunster’s sweet main street and grab a quick coffee.

Main street in the town of Dunster on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Charming town of Dunster in Somerset

Lined with gift shops and restaurants, the street is as quaint as one would expect a Somerset village street to be. Most stores are closed since it’s still early, which is just as well. I need to carefully monitor my shopping if only because I’m traveling with a small carry-on and don’t have a spare centimeter for extra stuff.

On the Road to Lynmouth on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

After Dunster, we travel on from Somerset into Devon. Along the way, we scale the 25% grade road (that’s really steep) that leads up from Porlock on the coast into Exmoor National Park and down the other side to the seaside town of Lynmouth (#2).

The views at the top are probably magnificent, but we need to take Matt’s word for it. The mist has rolled in, and the view is soft and gray with hints of heather and gorse. It’s still beautiful in an atmospheric kind of way, and we do spot several wild horses.

Misty view of Exmoor on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Misty Exmoor
Wild Horses on Exmoor on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Wild Exmoor horses

Lunch in Lynmouth

We stop for an hour in Lynmouth, which is just long enough for me to walk from the car park to the harbor, get a takeout lunch of fish and chips, do a spot of window shopping, and pop into the Memorial Hall that documents two seminal events in Lynmouth’s history.

I eat my ridiculously large serving of fish and chips on the pier overlooking the placid sea. The weather continues to be gray and dull, but the air is warm, and the streets of Lynmouth are still full of holidaymakers.

Lynmouth Harbour on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Lynmouth Harbour

Flood of 1952

After lunch, I check out the Memorial Hall where I learn about the devastating flood of 1952 when over nine inches of rain fell in a very short time, resulting in a landslide that buried half the town and killed 34 people in the wider area, 28 of them in Lynmouth. The excellent exhibit in the Memorial Hall includes several blown-up photographs that show the devastation, a well put together and sobering memorial.

Flood Damage in Lynmouth Harbour on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Flood damage in Lynmouth

Rescue of the Forrest Hall

Lynmouth is also famous for a daring rescue undertaken in 1899 by local townspeople. When a ship called the Forrest Hall foundered off Porlock Weir—the town we’d just driven through on our way to Lynmouth—the seas were so rough that local fishermen couldn’t even attempt a rescue. Rather than allow the people to perish, the intrepid fisherman of Lynmouth hauled a lifeboat called the Louisa up and over the extremely steep road we’d just traversed. The Memorial Hall includes a display of photographs about the rescue and its re-creation on the 100th anniversary in 1999.

On our way out of town, Matt plays us a song written to commemorate the rescue. The jaunty tune gets stuck in my head for hours.

Visit to Tintagel on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

A lot of driving takes us across Devon and into Cornwall, finally ending at Tintagel (#3), the highlight destination of the day. The main attraction here is Tintagel Castle, a windswept ruin perched atop a craggy island on the rugged Cornish coast. Was it the home of King Arthur? No. But that doesn’t stop the makers of souvenirs from exploiting Arthur at every turn.

Tourist shops line Tintagel’s main street leading to the long walkway to the castle. It’s colorful and tacky and crowded, although Matt tells us it’s quiet compared to what it’s like on Bank Holiday weekends.

Crossing the Bridge to Tintagel Castle

We start the trek down a very steep hill to the entrance to the castle. The word “castle” is used loosely. Folks expecgting to see a castle at Tintagel Castle (#4) will be disappointed. What you will see is an extremely dramatic setting, a very cool bridge linking the mainland to the island, and a smattering of crumbling stone walls—some quite large, most not.

Come prepared to walk and climb. A visit to Tintagel Castle requires a lot of walking, much of it over quite rough ground and up and down steep steps.

Getting to the island is almost as fun as climbing around it. A new bridge spans the gap between the mainland and the island. An open space of about four inches in the middle of the bridge allows for expansion and contraction during the often-ferocious weather that sweeps in from the Atlantic. The bridge to the ruins is sometimes closed and access cut off.

Tintagel Bridge on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Tintagel Bridge

Exploring Tintagel Ruins

As I wander around the ruins, I try to imagine what the castle looked like back in the day. I can’t really picture it, but I do feel a sense of kinship with the early inhabitants. The view of the rugged Cornish coastline stretching to the east and west will not have changed. And if Arthur had hung out here, he’d have looked up at the same massive expanse of sky and felt the same fresh wind.

View from Tintagel Island on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
View from Tintagel Island

The large site swarms with people but doesn’t feel crowded. The castle has been rebuilt several times over the centuries because the walls keep crumbling in the elements.  Hardly surprising. Bonus points for trying to build in such an inhospitable location, but in the end, nature wins.

I take a LOT of pictures.

Back to Tintagel

After exploring the island, I descend an extremely precipitous set of stairs to the bridge. I have a choice. I can either walk back up a very steep hill, which is the way I came, or I can continue down to a road and catch a Land Rover back up to the car park.

The one-way trip costs ₤2.50—a bargain, particularly because all the up-and-down climbing has inflamed my arthritic knee. To be honest, it’s screaming.

Steps down from Tintagel Castle on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Tintagel Steps

Old Post Office in Tintagel

Back in Tintagel, I discover the fabulous old post office—a National Trust property that draws me like a magnet. The ancient building dates from the 14th century. I gleefully explore the rooms, with their massive wooden beams, uneven floors, and white plaster walls. I’m a sucker for old houses, particularly one this old. I know it’s been restored and likely doesn’t look like it did back in the day, but my imagination goes into overdrive, nonetheless.

The thick walls and tiny windows would keep in the heat but at the cost of light. It must have been very gloomy, particularly at night with light provided by only a few guttering candles.

Tintagel Post Office on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Old Post Office in Tintagel

In the beautiful English garden behind the old post office, I chat with one of the National Trust guides about history and my novels. She’s lovely!

The Tintagel Old Post Office is open every day, with visiting hours from 10:30 to 17:30.

Rum in Tintagel

Before boarding the bus, I stop in at a place that sells local gin and rum. The shopkeeper is very accommodating. He describes the impressive range of rum-flavored spirits. I buy a small bottle of cinnamon flavored rum which I take a tipple of later in my room. It’s delicious; I wish I’d bought more!

Rum and gin shop in Tintagel on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
The Rum and Gin Shop in Tintagel

Dinner in Falmouth

The first and second nights of the tour are spent in the Cornish town of Falmouth (#5) on the south coast. I’ve chosen the Lerren Hotel—a large guest house overlooking the sea. My room is spacious and comfortable and the breakfast on both mornings is very tasty. I opt for smoked salmon and scrambled eggs on day 1 and porridge with cream and honey on day 2.

After getting settled, I walk down the hill to the harbor in search of a restaurant. I pass the Maritime Museum (#6)—a modern  building that looks very intriguing and advertises an exhibition about pirates which, alas, I will miss. On both of our nights in Falmouth, we arrive back long after the museum has closed and leave both mornings before it opens.

Maritime Museum in Falmouth on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Maritime Museum in Falmouth
A General Note About Guided Tours

One drawback of a guided tour is that you’re at the mercy of someone else’s schedule. If the itinerary doesn’t include something you want to see, then you’re out of luck. You must decide if the convenience of a tour is worth the lack of flexibility. Because I’m traveling on my own and don’t want to drive, taking a tour makes sense. Hopefully one day I’ll return and do a driving holiday. There is a LOT to see in this part of the world.

Dinner at The Hub in Falmouth is excellent: a dressed crab salad with lovely fresh bread and salad, and a large glass of Pino Grigio. After dinner, I meet up with the American couple who are dining close by and walk back to the hotel. They are staying around the corner, and I’m grateful for the company in the darkness.

A note about accommodation on a Rabbie’s tour. You can choose the level of accommodation you want, and they will book appropriate places, or you can book them yourself. I can recommend both The Lerryn in Falmouth and Leonardo Hotel Exeter, which is a cookie-cutter chain hotel, but very comfortable with excellent food.

Day 2: All Day in Cornwall on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England

The next morning dawns soft and mizzly, with the sky and the sea meeting in a single sheet of gray. But the air is fresh and the seagulls loud, and I’m excited to explore this scenic corner of Cornwall. Matt has promised us a full day of sightseeing with short drives.

Visit to Porthleven on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

Our first stop is the seaside town of Porthleven (#7) which is apparently a mecca for foodies. Matt tells us about a terrible storm many years ago during which the sea surged into the sheltered harbor and swept a police car right off the pier, killing both police officers inside.

I snap a photo of the warning sign that greets us at the start of the pier.

Warning sign on Porthleven pier on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Warning sign on Porthleven Pier

The pier is open and empty in the rain. It’s a spectacular setting even in the gray and the wet.

We stop at a coffee roastery to sample some locally roasted coffee. The roastery is a happening place with lots of employees bustling around the facility visible through large windows in the café area.

Minack Theatre on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

At 11:30, we have a reservation to view Minack Theatre (#8). This place is a revelation. I’d never heard of it and so was delighted to discover a multi-level series of turf-covered benches stretching from the edge of a clif sea up a steep hill.

Minack Theatre is the creation of the indomitable Rowena Cade after she saw an open-air production of A Midsummer Night’s Dream in the 1920s. She offered her cliffside garden for staging performances and almost 100 years later people are still coming to this dramatic setting to enjoy live theater.

View of Minack Theatre on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Minack Theater

I go into the exhibition center to watch a film about the origins of the theatre and am particularly interested in the interviews with various performers about the challenges of performing in a theater open to the elements—wind, rain, cold, sun. Occasionally, the weather is so bad that the theatre has to be closed and the performances cancelled.

One of the highlights of the site is the plethora of exotic succulents in all sorts of twisty shapes. I can’t stop snapping pictures!

If I ever travel again to Cornwall—preferably under my own steam—I’ll definitely book tickets for a performance at Minack Theatre. Talk about an Artsy Traveler experience!

Land’s End

A short drive takes us from Minack Theatre to Land’s End (#9). The last time I visited Land’s End was in 1974 when, at age18, I traveled with two friends all around Britain. Somewhere in a box is a picture of the three of us at the Land’s End signpost.

I remember the place as windswept and pretty much empty apart from maybe an ice cream truck.

View of Land’s End on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Land’s End

That’s all changed now. A theme park franchise has taken over the area and made it horrendously commercial. Fortunately, no amount of tackiness can detract from the stunning view of rocks and ocean that awaits you once you’ve threaded the gauntlet of souvenir stores and fast-food joints along with a bunch of weird, out-of-context attractions.

Now, you’ll pay ₤10.99 to have your picture taken next to a signpost on which an attendant affixes letters designating your home town and its distance from Land’s End.

Needless to say, I decline.

Tin Mines of Botallack

This stretch of Cornish coastline is known as the Tin Coast and was home to numerous tin mines, the vestiges of which are still visible. The Tin Coast has been the site of mining for over 2,000 years, with the industry peaking during the Industrial Revolution when the demand for tin was high.

At Botallack (#10), we stop to view the ruins of several mines and walk out to the cliff. The word bleak comes to mind, perhaps because it’s gray and rainy, but more so because I can’t help thinking how horrific life must have been for the miners.

View of ruined tin mine at Botallack on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Ruins of a tin mine at Botallack

Many of the mines extend hundreds of meters out to sea and hundreds of meters below the seabed. I shudder to think of how claustrophobic the conditions must have been and how many of the workers died.

St. Ives on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

The major destination for Day 2 is the seaside town of St. Ives (#11). One of its many claims to fame is its association with several prominent 20th century artists, including Barbara Hepworth.

Tate St. Ives

Matt drops us right in front of the Tate St. Ives. I hadn’t realized there was a Tate here, so imagine my delight! I make it my first stop. The beautiful building houses ten galleries filled mostly with post-war abstract art along with a special exhibition of the very colorful work of Beatriz Milhazes.

I arrive in Gallery 1 in time to hear a short talk by one of the curators about Robert Lanyon, an artist I had never heard of. Unlike most of the artists who flocked to St. Ives throughout the 20th century, Robert Lanyon was born in St. Ives. He was also a foremost proponent of post-war abstract art. The curator tells us that St. Ives was attractive to artists such as Barbara Hepworth and others because of the beauty of its light and the landscape.

He emphasizes three words: abstraction, light, and landscape.

Commentary on Porthleven by Peter Lanyon

The curator presents a lively commentary of a work called Porthleven by Peter Lanyon. The large, powerful work was Lanyon’s contribution as one of sixty artists chosen to represent Britain at the Festival of Britain in 1951. I’d heard about the Festival at the Museum of English Rural Life a few days earlier. Funny how you can go a lifetime never hearing about something and then suddenly hear about it twice in three days.

The piece is a multi-layered depiction of Porthleven, where we’d visited that morning. The curator’s explanation really brought the painting to life. Apparently, David Bowie was a big collector of Lanyon’s work. He said his work may not be the most beautiful in his collection, but they were the pieces he looked at the most.

Porthleven by Peter Lanyon at the Tate St. Ives on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest
Porthleven by Peter Lanyon

Touring the Tate St. Ives

After the short talk, I tour the various galleries and get pleasantly lost in a reverie of art appreciation. Here are three of my favorite pieces.

Waterfall by Arshile Gorky at the Tate St. Ives
Waterfall by Arshile Gorky

L’Étang de Trivaux by Henri Matisse at the Tate St. Ives
L’Étang de Trivaux by Henri Matisse

Nives II by Victor Vasarely at the Tate St. Ives
Nives II by Victor Vasarely

Commentary on Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon

I finish my swing through the galleries in time to catch a second talk about Peter Lanyon by the same curator. Thankfully, there is seating for this talk. My knee is tender after yesterday’s hike around Tintagel and I sink gratefully onto a bench to listen.

The curator describes a piece called Lost Mine that depicts a tin mining disaster. Since I’d only just visited the remains of the tin mines at Botallack, viewing the painting felt particularly relevant.

The curator describes what I’d suspected when viewing the tin mines—the dreadful conditions the miners endured to extract tin and copper from under the sea. Some of the shafts went 400 meters into the seabed and then a mile out to sea. When there was a flood—an inundation as it was called—there was no way out. Deaths were alarmingly common in an age when safety standards were unknown.

Lanyon’s visual depiction of a mining disaster is visceral and immediate. The curator’s description of the various elements make sense of the painting and reveal Lanyon’s skill.

Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon at the Tate St. Ives

Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon

Exploring St. Ives

After touring the Tate, I mosey into the main center of St. Ives, a pleasing warren of narrow streets and alleys. The main street is lined with shops—gifts and food and art. But unlike some of the places I’ve visited so far in Cornwall, most of the shops feature locally made art and gift items rather than imported tat.

At the end of the street, I discover that St. Ives is a peninsula, with the ocean on one side where the Tate is and a beautiful harbor on the other. Surfers ride the waves on the ocean side, and boats bob serenely on the harbor side.

It really is picture perfect. No wonder the place is mobbed. It would be wonderful to come here off-season—rent a house overlooking the water and write. I wouldn’t be the first author to have done so! As a child, Virginia Woolf lived here in Talland House, which is the title of a novel inspired by Woolf by author Maggie Humm. I interviewed Maggie about Talland House and its connection to St. Ives for The Art In Fiction Podcast.

I see signs to Barbara Hepworth’s studio and garden, but I decide I don’t have time for a visit. At least I have even more incentive to return to St. Ives.

Back to Falmouth

After St. Ives, we head back to Falmouth. It’s been a long day and I’m happy to pick up a takeaway dinner to eat in my room. Before darkness falls, I stroll along the sea front to admire the view and listen to the constant cawing of the seagulls. Falmouth seems like a very pleasant town and I’m sorry there’s not more time to explore it.

Day 3: Cornwall to Devon on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England

The sun decides to come out as we leave Falmouth and the Cornish coast and drive inland across the sunlit patchwork of green that is central Cornwall. Huge clouds fill the big sky, and everyone is in good spirits.

Our small group is easy to deal with, which I’m sure is a relief for Matt, and makes for a tranquil tour for me. Everyone returns to the bus on time, and no one has any complaints.

Jamaica Inn on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

The first stop of the day is the Jamaica Inn (#12), made famous by Daphne du Maurier. When she and a friend were lost in the fog, their horses led them to the inn. As a result, du Maurier wrote her famous novel Jamaica Inn. Several films and a TV series have been filmed here.

I’m looking forward to touring the museum, but, alas, I can’t find it in the warren of rooms all serving food. Basically, Jamaica Inn is a restaurant and gift shop attracting coach tours. I do, however, buy a novel by Daphne du Maurier because I’ve never actually read any of her work.

Traversing Bodmin Moor

In the sunlight, the gorse and heather and cows and towering clouds in a wide sky above Bodmin Moor (#13) captivate my imagination. We’re on our way across the moor to the tiny town of Minions where there is an ancient stone circle. But first, a quick stop to get acquainted with some lovely Cornish hairy cows.

Hairy cow on Bodmin Moor
A hairy cow on Bodmin Moor

Matt skillfully drives us along narrow roads with densely packed hedgerows on either side. He tells us that the foliage masks stone walls just waiting to dent passing cars.

We stop in a sylvan dell to view an ancient bridge, called a carriage bridge, that includes outdents to allow vehicles to pass. Matt leads us in a quick game of Pooh Sticks. Mine emerges from under the bridge in third place.

I love this stop! There are no visitors or ice cream trucks in sight; it’s just the six of us in a forest with the smell of vegetation on the brink of decay—the smell of summer ending.

The Minions

We drive on into Dartmoor en route to the tiny town of Minions (#14). Apparently, the town sign is often pinched thanks to the popularity of the Minions movies. Our destination is the Hurler Stones—an ancient stone circle set atop the windy moor.

I do love a good stone circle and this one is impressive.

Carol at a stone circle on Dartmoor
One of the stones in the Hurlers Stone Circle

The stone circle is named The Hurlers because in olden times, a group of men dared to play hurling on the Sabbath. To punish them, the devil rose from hell and turned them to stone.

The true origins of the stone circles (there are three of them) is not known, but they are definitely very old.

As we walk up to the stones, we need to watch every step to avoid many still-steaming contributions by horses, sheep, and cows.

Lunch Stop in Tavistock on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

We stop for lunch stop in Tavistock (#15), a pleasant little town. I have just enough time to grab a quick lunch—a chicken, bacon, and leek Cornish pasty (excellent) — and check out the indoor market that mostly features antiques.

The American woman on the tour is into antiquing. I run into her outside and tell her she must go in and take a look. With ten minutes to spare before the bus leaves, she manages to make two purchases—an antique lace doll’s dress and an antique doll also dressed in handmade lace. I’m impressed by her power shopping!

Tavistock on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
A street in Tavistock

Cream Tea

On our way to Haytor on Dartmoor—one of the day’s highlights—we stop at a café to enjoy a proper Devon cream tea. Although I’m full from my pasty at lunch, I can’t pass up the opportunity to slather jam and clotted cream on a freshly baked scone!

Devon cream tea on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Cream tea

Visit To Haytor on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

Dartmoor is littered with tors—granite outcroppings that rise above the moor. The most famous, and one of the largest, is Haytor (#16). We are lucky that the weather is glorious for our ascent from the parking lot past grazing wild horses to the base of Haytor.

It is possible to climb to the very top of the grainite tor, but I content myself with enjoying the 360-degree views from the base. It’s pretty dang magnificent.

Here’s a 360-degree video taken from the base of Haytor.

And here are just a few of the many photos I snapped while enjoying Haytor—one of the highlights of the entire Southwest Tour.

Day 4: Devon to Dorset on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England

It’s the final day of our four-day tour of the Southwest. Our mission today is to check out the Dorset coast and then Stonehenge before returning to Bristol.

Lyme Regis on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

Our first stop is Lyme Regis (#17), known as the pearl of Dorset. Matt drops us at the bottom of the steep main street. I have just an hour and must make a choice. Either I go left to explore the museum or right to walk along the shingled beach to the Cobb, made famous in Jane Austen’s Persuasion. Years ago, I visited the Cobb and so I choose left.

Lyme Regis Museum

The Lyme Regis Museum (#18) is packed full of interesting artifacts and fossils, in keeping with Lyme Regis’s reputation as fossil central. Several displays document the life of the indomitable Mary Anning. Born in 1799, Mary became known internationally for her discoveries of Jurassic marine fossil beds at Lyme Regis. Her findings contributed to changes in scientific thinking about prehistoric life and the history of Earth. Go Mary!

She’s been the subject of novels and films, including Remarkable Creatures by author Tracy Chevalier.

Display of fossils in the Lyme Regis Museum
Fossils at the Lyme Regis Museum

Strolling Lyme Regis

After leaving the museum, I stroll a little way along the beach towards the Cobb. Despite the shops and the crowds, the main street leading down to the water still feels ancient. It’s easy to imagine Anne Elliott from Persuasion strolling along the beachfront.

Lyme Regis on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
View of Lyme Regis

Hiking Down to Durdle Door on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

Another hour on the road takes us to Durdle Door (#19) in Dorset. Last night, Matt asked each of us to supply him with the titles of three or four of our favorite songs. During the drive, he plays all our songs. It’s an eclectic mix including some smooth and jazzy Brazilian music, When I’m 64 by The Beatles, a track by Taylor Swift, various country and rock cuts, and my own contributions—Carole King, Simon & Garfunkel, and Rod Stewart.

At Durdle Door, I’m faced with a very steep walk down and back. My poor knee is not happy, but I ignore the pain and set off. Unfortunately, Durdle Door is not visible from the car park so in order to get some photos and enjoy the stunning views, I need to walk.

View near Durdle Door on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
View of the beach at Durdle Door

Durdle Door on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
View of Durdle Door

Carol Cram in front of Durdle Door on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Carol at Durdle Door

Lulworth on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

The little village of Lulworth (#20) is an easy downhill walk from Durdle Door. We drive there, park, and walk down the single street to the cove. There really isn’t a whole lot to do except walk down to the cove, look at the cove, buy lunch, eat it on the beach while looing the cove, walk back from the cove, and then buy a fridge magnet depicting Durdle Door.

Lulworth Cove on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
View of Lulworth Cove

Stonehenge on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

Our final stop of the day—and of the four-day tour—is Stonehenge (#21), where we will be five of the one million visitors who check out this massive stone circle every year. I’ve visited Stonehenge a few times over the years and seen quite the evolution.

Back in the 1970s, I was able to walk right up to the stones, touch them and pose on them. Such free access was curtailed in the 1990s because of damage being caused to the stones. When I visited in 2001, I bought my tickets at a pokey kiosk next to the parking lot, walked a fair distance to the stones, walked around the stones, walked back, and that was about it. I don’t even think there was a gift shop.

Well, welcome to 2024! The visitor experience has been transformed into a slickly managed sequence of carefully orchestrated activities. After getting tickets (Matt takes care of this for us), we are fitted with paper bracelets that include a QR Code. I scan the code and download the audio guide, which provides a worthwhile commentary of the Stonehenge Experience.

Shuttling to Stonehenge

I board a shuttle bus for the five-minute ride to the stone circle and begin the circumnavigation to view it from every angle. Although I’ve seen Stonehenge before, I still find it impressive. Who built it? Why? How?

Carol Cram in front of Stonehenge on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Carol at Stonehenge

I snap plenty of pictures. Even though the site is full of visitors, it doesn’t feel overwhelming, perhaps because the stone circle itself is empty. It’s easy to get atmospheric shots that evoke the ancient past without including other visitors.

View of Stonehenge on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Stonehenge

After getting my Stonehenge fix to last me another decade or two, I take the shuttle bus back to the stylish Visitor Centre. The small exhibition is high-tech and interesting and includes re-creations of the types of houses that the people who built Stonehenge may have lived in.

And finally, I enter the giftshop—the largest I’ve seen on this trip, and that’s saying something! It’s remarkable how many Stonehenge-themed items are on display, from sweatshirts to water bottles to socks and a lot, lot more. I resist buying yet another fridge magnet.

Onwards Back to Bristol

We’re back on the bus for the last time. The trip west to Bristol (#22) takes longer than expected thanks to traffic but I don’t mind. I’m enjoying looking out the window and thinking about the past four days.

For me, the highlights of the tour were the opportunities to walk in the countryside at sites such as Tintagel, Haytor, and Durdle Door, and visits to museums like the Tate St. Ives and the Lyme Regis Museum. I could have skipped Lulworth, Land’s End, and Jamaica Inn in favor of more opportunities to be in the countryside. However, a guided tour must make choices and people do need to be fed and have access to toilets.

Conclusion

Thank you to Rabbie’s Tours for a memorable four days. I recommend the tour for travelers who don’t want to drive and want to pack in as many sites as possible in a short period without sacrificing some memorable experiences. Kudos to our guide, Matt, for his patience and good humor.

Have you taken a Rabbie’s Tour? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

Carol Cram at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England

Make the Roman Baths in Bath a Sightseeing Priority

The Roman Baths in Bath, England, is the city’s foremost must-see attraction. If you only have time to visit one historic site in Bath, make it the Roman Baths. It’s small enough to enjoy in about an hour, includes an excellent audio guide, and is enlivened by numerous projections of Roman-clad people going about their bathing business.

In September 2024, I visited the Roman Baths for a third time and loved it just as much as I had in 2008 and 2018.

Arrival

I arrive outside the Pump Room that houses the Roman Baths to find quite a crowd gathered and signs indicating which time slot is currently being accommodated. Oh dear! I forgot to take my own advice and book in advance! I ask the person marshaling the crowd if I needed to book, and she promptly stands aside and motions for me to walk right in, bypassing the long line. I don’t stop to question my good fortune.

The admission price is a steep £27—and that’s the Seniors’ rate (a whole pound off the Adult rate). But that’s okay. I’m always happy to support museums that really deliver memorable visitor experiences.

Audio Guide

The price includes an audio guide with two tracks. The regular one provides the usual historical context in short and interesting installments. The children’s track includes first-person accounts by the many characters that wander across screens projected throughout the museum. I alternate between the adult and children’s tracks. Both are excellent.

Touring the Baths

The clearly signposted route starts at the walkway surrounding the baths. This structure and the statues of various Roman bigwigs are Victorian additions that were built atop the Roman ruins to house the museum when it opened in the late 19th century.

The walkway is a delightful space surrounded by warm Bath stone and with the façade of Bath Abbey looming in the background. Below are the deep green waters of the main pool. Bath has been a mecca for health-seekers for two millennia.

Overhead view of the main pool at the Roman Baths Museum
View of the main pool from the top walkway
View of Bath Abbey from the top walkway at thhe Roman Baths Museum
View of Bath Abbey from the top walkway

Hot Springs History

I learn that Bath is the only place in the entire country that has hot springs—three of them. No wonder people have been coming here for millennia.

Before the Romans arrived, the local Dobunni tribe considered the site sacred and was where they worshiped the goddess Sulis. In those days, the heated natural spring was a bubbling, steaming pool surrounded by a thick swamp. When the Romans arrived, they incorporated worship of Sulis into their own pantheon and so transformed her into Sulis Minerva. The Romans were generally “equal opportunity” when it came to accommodating other religions, so long as the people practicing them rendered unto Caesar the necessary taxes.

The Roman legionnaires who first conquered the area must have been very happy to have found a place where they could soak their weary bones in warm water in the midst of a Great Britain winter.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, Bath developed into one of the world’s most fashionable watering holes. Everyone who was anyone came here to take the waters. Jane Austen herself bathed here.

Museum Exhibits

The tour leads back indoors and descends through several rooms full of artfully displayed exhibits about the Romans. Enlivening the experience are screens projecting a selection of Roman people who would have frequented the baths back in the day. It’s a clever way to bring history to life and makes me feel like I’m witnessing it firsthand.

I listen to a blacksmith on the audio guide while watching a screen showing him hard at work making armor. 

Projection of a Roman blacksmith at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England
Projection of a Roman blacksmith

The Baths

The exhibits give way to a series of walkways leading across the remains of the various rooms in the Roman Baths. The Romans took their health seriously. There are rooms for getting massaged and plucked (apparently, the Romans weren’t keen on body hair), rooms for bathing in various water temperatures, and even a gymnasium where Romans got good and sweaty in humid air that still smells of sulfur.

Projection of Romans getting prepared to bathe at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England
Projection of Roman woman preparing to bathe

The ruins themselves don’t photograph particularly well. Here’s one room showing the bricks that would have been under the floor to supply the heating. The audio commentary provides details about the impressive heating and cooling mechanisms. The Romans certainly knew how to engineer.

Ruins of the heating system at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England
Ruins of the heating system

Minerva Sulis

One of the most striking artifacts on display is the gilt bronze head of the goddess Sulis Minerva. It’s a rare and beautiful example of ancient craftsmanship. 

Bust of the goddess Minerva-Sulis at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England
Bust of the goddess Sulis Minerva

Outside next to the large pool sits a Roman-clad guide. She acknowledges me with a regal nod when I take her picture. I’m unsure if she’s meant to speak or if her job is to sit by the pool all day and have her picture taken. 

A costumed guide at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England
A Roman watches the crowds go by

Rome Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of city Rome!

Tours and Tickets

Here are some tours and ticket options to consider when touring Bath.

Conclusion

Ruins can be challenging to enjoy because they are, well, ruins. The Roman Baths manages to bring the stony vestiges of a once great Roman hangout to life with its thoughtful use of projections and audio commentary. 

As you exit the museum, you can enjoy a cupful of the medicinal waters to give you energy for more Bath sightseeing.

In 2024, the Roman Baths are open from 9 am to 10 pm from July 20 to August 31, and from 9 am to 6 pm from September 1 to December 31. Buy your tickets online from the museum’s website.

Have you visited the Roman Baths? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in southern England.

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Other Interesting Museums on Artsy Traveler

Enjoying the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England

This must-see museum of thoughtfully curated exhibits showcases the history of rural life in England. Eight galleries and an impressive open storage area present artifacts and commentary related to the traditions and challenges related to food production in the English countryside.

I spent a wonderful afternoon with associate director Isabel Hughes, who graciously answered my many questions about the museum and then took me on a guided tour.

This place is a real Artsy Traveler find! And fair warning: this is a LONG post because there is just so much to write about.

Some Background

A few decades ago, I lived in Reading for three years while attending the University of Reading to earn my BA in English Language and Literature. I hadn’t returned to Reading since I graduated, so on a recent trip to England from my home near Vancouver, BC, I decided to make Reading my first stop after landing at Heathrow.

I wasn’t sure what I planned to do during my one afternoon in Reading, so I googled museums and discovered the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) run by my alma mater, the University of Reading. I had never heard of MERL, although Isabel told me the museum was established in 1951 and did indeed exist when I attended the university in the 1970s. In 2004, the museum moved to its spacious new digs in the former St. Andrew’s Hall, one of the student residences that was around during my time at the university.

Since its expansion, MERL has established itself as one of the United Kingdom’s premier destinations at which to learn about English rural life.

Why I Wanted to Visit the Museum of English Rural Life

I decided to visit MERL for two reasons. First, it’s a niche museum and as such is a perfect candidate for featuring on Artsy Traveler. Although I often write about blockbuster museums such as the Rijksmuseum, National Gallery of London, and the Uffizi, my heart beats particularly fast when I discover an off-the-beaten-track museum that my readers may not know about, and that fits with my interests.

The second reason I wanted to visit MERL is because one of my works in progress (a novel titled Mill Song) is partially set in Devon in the 1880s. Eliza, my main character, must move with her family from a bucolic rural life in Devon to the “dark, satanic mills” of northern England where most of the novel takes place. In the scenes set in Devon, I wanted to sprinkle in a few more details about rural life that I hoped I’d find at MERL.

And I wasn’t disappointed! This museum is a hidden gem—and admission is free!

Arrival at the Museum of English Rural Life

A few hours prior to visiting MERL, I land at Heathrow after a smooth eight-hour flight from Vancouver. Twenty minutes after deplaning, I’m standing, phone in hand, searching for my Uber. Most of that time has been taken up with long, long walks through long, long corridors, many rides up and down long escalators and a two-minute wait to go through the electronic customs kiosk.

Since my flight has arrived an hour early, I take the Uber to my hotel before heading to the museum. I’m staying at the Hotel Malmaison (#1 on the map) in downtown Reading, which I highly recommend. After freshening up, I decide to walk the 22 minutes from the hotel to MERL (#2). Here’s a map of Reading:

Along the way, I expect to take a few jaunts down memory lane, but alas, it isn’t to be. Nothing looks the same as I remember from the 1970s—not even close. The Reading skyline bristles with new buildings designed by architects who likely hadn’t been born when I was studying at the university.

When I lived in Reading, there was hardly anywhere to get coffee, much less enjoy a meal. We existed on copious amounts of strong tea; coffee bars were unheard of. And as for eating out, it just wasn’t done, or at least very rarely. Now, every other establishment in Reading serves food, or so it seems as I stroll through the downtown area.

Along the way, I cross over the Kennett-Avon canal which looks serene and well-groomed in the late August sunshine.

Kennet and Avon Canal in Reading
Kennett-Avon canal in Reading

When I arrive at MERL, associate director Isabel Hughes meets me and, over a very welcome cup of tea, we start our chat.

The Interview

Here’s a summary of my interview with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) at the University of Reading in England.

Carol

What is the purpose of the Museum of English Rural Life?

Isabel

The purpose of the museum is to present exhibits and objects that help visitors understand the human side of English rural life: the production of food, farming practices since the 19th century, and the changing countryside. We like to present the human side of rural life and really celebrate working people since the vast majority of people in the 19th century and into the 20th century either worked on the land or in mills, or were servants.

Farming practices began to change in the late 19th century because of the agricultural depression caused by wheat production in Canada.

Carol

That’s very interesting because in my novel Mill Song, my main character’s family moves from Devon because there is no more farm labor work for the men. I thought it was because of mechanization that jobs became scarce, but there was also an agricultural depression. It’s interesting that Canada was to blame! A lot of people, including many of my ancestors, emigrated from a rural life in the West Country to Canada during the 19th century.

Isabel

MERL was started by the Agriculture Department at the University of Reading in 1951. World War II had ended and there was a push to make agriculture more self-sufficient and productive with the use of insecticides and the development of large farms. But as a result, traditional farming practices were being lost.

The founders of the museum realized this and decided to collect items such as old wagons and hand tools. They went to agricultural shows and talked to farmers, and acquired examples of traditional crafts such as basketry, woodworking, and bodging (making things such as brooms and chairs out of unseasoned green wood).

In 2004, the museum moved to its present location in the former St. Andrew’s Hall of residence, helped in part by funding from Alfred Palmer, a well-known Reading businessperson.

Carol

I well remember taking my exams at Reading University in the Palmer Building! He was quite the benefactor.

What is your number one recommendation for touring the Museum of English Rural Life?

Isabel

We like people to have a wander and see it all. The huge collection of wagons is particularly impressive. We have wagons from almost every county in England.

An old wagon in the Museum of English Rural Life
One of the many wagons at MERL, this one from Dorset

People can explore the eight galleries and then go upstairs to view our open storage of the thousands of items the museum has collected over the years.

Attached to each artifact is a luggage label; these were the original labels affixed when the artifact was acquired by the museum.

A large collection of farm implements in the open storage area of the museum
A large collection of farm implements in the open storage area of the museum

Another thing that we want people to notice is the textile wall hanging created for the Countryside Pavilion at the Festival of Britain in 1951. It was one of several we acquired. The one on display depicts Cheshire and cheese production.

An enormous wall hanging featuring cheshire and cheese production at the Museum of English Rural Life
An enormous wall hanging featuring Cheshire and cheese production

Carol

What is your favorite exhibit and why?

Isabel

I think my favorite is a pitchfork that was grown in a hedgerow. A branch growing off the shrub was nurtured until it was just the right size and shape for a pitchfork.

It’s made by nature but guided by hand.

Isabel’s favorite, a pitchfork grown from a hedgerow

Carol

What are some of the hidden gems that visitors should check out at MERL?

Isabel

The display of friendly society pole heads is intriguing. A friendly society was a cooperative that workers bought into. If they had a rough time, then the cooperative could help to support them. The pole heads were elaborately carved and resembled pub signs. They were carried in processions such as church parades.

A collection of silver pole heads that resemble English pub signs
Some of the silver pole heads in the MERL collection

Carol

Is The Museum of English Rural Life the only rural museum in England?

Isabel

It is one of the earliest museums but not the only one. There is a rural museum network that includes small community museums. Other large museums like MERL are the National Museum of Rural Life in Scotland and the St. Fagan’s National Museum of History in Wales. There is also the Weald and Downland Living Museum near Chichester, which is where Repair Shop is filmed. We like to think of MERL as the national rural museum for England, but it is not, officially.

Carol

Isabel

We’ve had images from the wall hangings turned into merchandise such as mugs, pencil cases, notebooks, tea towels and bags. We also have tea towels depicting engineering drawings of farm machinery, which are very popular with enthusiasts who are interested in recreating rural farm machinery.

Carol

Are any new exhibits planned at the Museum of English Rural Life?

Isabel

We have quite a few artifacts related to the Roma people that are often not labeled as such. These include photographs of people working the land, and a gypsy wagon. We are starting to re-label these artifacts to feature the history of the Roma people in the English countryside.

A gypsy wagon at the Museum of English Rural Life
A gypsy wagon at the Museum of English Rural Life

Carol

Anything else you’d like to share?

Isabel

At MERL, we have an extensive library and archives containing a wealth of stories. Of particular note is our archive of letters that children evacuees during World War II sent to their parents when they were evacuated from the cities to the countryside. Reading was one of the hubs for evacuee children. Some of the letters were positive, depicting the experience as active and fun, while others were from children who were upset and even mistreated.

The labels affixed to the children when they were put on the train to go into the countryside inspired Michael Bond to write the Paddington Bear books in the 1950s.

A group of children being evacuated from the city during World War II
A group of children being evacuated from the city during World War II

Touring the Museum

After our chat, Isabel takes me around the museum. Seeing it after talking with her really brings it to life. Throughout the galleries are interactive activities for children. MERL has an active school program and welcomes over 50,000 visitors a year, likely a good proportion of them families.

I love the sheep clad in an Aran sweater in the first main gallery.

A large stuffed sheep wearing an Aran sweater
A large stuffed sheep wearing an Aran sweater greets visitors to the first large gallery

The size of MERL surprises me. The galleries go on forever, each one more chock-a-block with artifacts than the last. You can spend a lot of time here!

One of the very large galleries at the Museum of English Rural Life
One of the very large galleries at the Museum of English Rural Life

Land Girls

I’m particularly taken by the exhibits related to the Land Girls—young women who worked on the farms during World War II. Here are photographs of several Land Girls and the uniform they wore.

Photograph of five Land Girls, young women who worked the farms during WW II
Land Girls in World War II

Photograph of the uniform worn by Land Girls, young women who worked the farms during WW II
Land Girls uniform in World War II

The Land Girls experience inspired Land Girls, a British TV series available on Netflix.

Traps

A sobering exhibit features various traps—both for animals and people. The two human traps are particularly horrifying. Anyone caught in one would likely die a very slow and painful death. These traps were placed to prevent poaching.

Two traps used prior to 1827 to catch poachers
Human traps, fortunately outlawed in 1827.

We spend almost an hour roaming through the galleries and viewing the open storage collections on the first floor. I’m very impressed with both the size and the quality of the exhibits and am reminded how, in another life, I would have loved to have been a museum curator.

But being a novelist and travel blogger is also good—and MERL ticks the boxes on both fronts. I’m finding plenty of inspiration for the country scenes in Mill Song. The open storage collection of smocks, many beautifully embellished with traditional smocking, reminds me of what some of my characters may have worn. I can also imagine my main character wearing a bonnet, such as the ones displayed, while she helped with the harvest.

Several smocks hanging in open storage at the Museum of Rural Life
These smocks were likely worn for special occasions

A collection of bonnets worn by women on farms in the 19th century
Bonnets in open storage

New Inspiration

To my delight, MERL sparks inspiration for a new novel based around the story of two evacuees in World War II. After my meeting with Isabel, I scribble several pages of notes about possible characters and plots. It looks like I’m going to have to return to MERL to comb through their extensive archive of letters written by evacuees during World War II.

I can only imagine what treasures await.

As the museum gets set to close, Isabel and I pose for a photo, I purchase a notebook that shows a detail from the Cheshire wall hanging, and say my good-byes.

Carol Cram and Isabel Hughes, co-director of the Museum of English Rural Life
Carol Cram with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life

I walk back to my hotel, enjoy an excellent dinner, and then, finally, turn the lights out at 9. My first day in the UK has been a success.

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in southern England. Most depart from London.

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Conclusion

The Museum of English Rural Life is a specialty museum with broad appeal. Touring a museum dedicated to how food was produced back in the day reminds us of our rural roots–and everyone eats food! No matter where you come from, chances are good that at least a few of your ancestors had something to do with agriculture.

The Museum of English Rural Life is open from 10 am to 5 pm daily and entrance is free. It is located at 6 Redlands Road in Reading, Berkshire. The museum’s extensive website showcases its many exhibits.

Have you visited this museum or another like it? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

Other Specialty Museums on Artsy Traveler

Writers Retreat UK in Beal Yorkshire

Attend a Residential Writers’ Retreat and Set Fire to Your Creativity

Have you ever considered going on a writers’ retreat? If you’re a writer—or want to be a writer—the top need on your writer’s wish list is very likely time. Without time, you can’t write. Without time, you can’t improve. When you give yourself the gift of time to think and create, you give yourself the gift of productivity.

In May 2024, I gave myself the gift of time by attending a week-long writers’ retreat in North Yorkshire. Called, fittingly, The Writers’ Retreat, the venue and program is the passion project of writer Jan Birley. Participants gather in a renovated 200-year-old pub in the tiny, picture-perfect Yorkshire village of Beal to write their hearts out in a peaceful and supportive environment.

About The Writers’ Retreat

The Writers’ Retreat runs retreats from one day to six days in duration, along with special events throughout the year. Check out their website.

At The Writers’ Retreat, you are provided with all your meals (even wine with dinner!) and can participate in a series of optional writing workshops and one-to-one mentoring sessions with a writing professional. Jan or her husband Tony even collects you from the local train station and takes you back again at the end of the retreat.

When you’re not eating, sleeping, or being mentored, you are free to write in any number of comfortable locations throughout the building—from the stylishly decorated bedrooms all equipped with writing desks, to tables and squishy sofas scattered throughout several lounges, to an outdoor terrace for days when the sun shines.

Lounge area at The Writers Retreat in Yorkshire for writers to write

I chose the six-day retreat because I knew from experience that five full days of dedicated writing time was optimum for me to make significant progress on my WIP (Work In Progress).

Spoiler Alert: It worked and it was fabulous!

Here’s my account of the six days.

Day 1: Monday Arrival

The start date of my retreat in May 2024 corresponded with the last day of a five-week trip around Europe with my husband, artist Gregg Simpson. The purpose of our trip was to attend several exhibitions of his paintings in Italy and for me to research locations and get inspiration for new novels.

I discovered The Writers’ Retreat after I’d booked my European trip. Surely it was a sign from the universe that I had to attend when I found out that the dates aligned with the conclusion of my trip–and that there was just one spot left. I immediately rejigged my travel arrangements. My husband flew home from Paris while I flew to Manchester, took a train to Selby in North Yorkshire, and was picked up and brought to the retreat in the sweet little village of Beal.

Here’s my bedroom and the view from my writing table that would inspire for me six days.

Bedroom at The Writers Retreat in Yorkshire where I spent most of my time writing
View of houses and treets over a rooftop at The Writers Retreat in Yorkshire where I spent most of my time writing

Meeting My Fellow Writers

After getting settled in my room overlooking a pair of quaint houses with green and pleasant parkland beyond, I meet Jan and the five other writers with whom I’ll be sharing my week. Jan introduces herself and talks about what to expect for the week, and then we all share why we’ve chosen the retreat.

We are an eclectic lot consisting of academics, non-fiction writers, experienced novelists, and short-story writers. Here are brief bios supplied by some of the participants.

Sue

Sue is a Professor from the University of Edinburgh, specialising in developmental psychology.  During the retreat, she worked on wrapping up a series of writing projects including a grant proposal, a couple of journal articles, an editorial and the introduction to a book about neurodiversity for teachers. Neurodiversity is gaining ground as a way to understand important aspects of how pupils learn and generally experience school. But lots of teachers aren’t clear what this model means for them and why it is supposed to be helpful to pupils. The book will have chapters written by a neurodiverse group of academics and educators with the aim of helping teachers embed this new theory into their classroom practice. 

JoJo Stone

JoJo is a passionate new writer based in the picturesque landscapes of the U.K. From a young age, JoJo discovered a deep connection with the writing world and began crafting poetry that resonates with emotions. JoJo has published three novels and at the retreat worked on her fourth novel and some short stories. Check out her great website.

Ann

When Ann retired, she dipped her toe into various writing groups and also attended a short evening course in Creative Writing at her local university, all of which encouraged her to ‘get writing.’ She’s completed a number of short stories, some of which she intends to publish online. At The Writers’ Retreat in Yorkshire, she revved up her writing engines and hopes to publish her first novel in 2025.

Two writers from the United States also joined us to contribute their enthusiasm and good vibes.

First Evening

After introductions (and a nice glass of wine), we enjoy our first dinner together in the large dining room. Over the course of the week, the dining room becomes the hub for conversation, lots of laughter, food, workshop sessions, and a constant supply of coffee, tea, and cold drinks to sustain us when we aren’t being fed.

My Project for the Week

I retire to my room and get busy working on my project for the week—finishing my sixth novel. Called The Merchant of Siena, the novel follows headstrong Bianca as she learns how to survive and thrive in late 14th century Siena–a time fraught with plagues, famines, and vicious attacks by bands of roving mercenaries. Bianca’s journey from idealistic youth to one of the city’s richest merchants is a rags-to- riches story with a twist.

The first three chapters of The Merchant of Siena were recently shortlisted in the Ancient to 16th Century category for the Historical Novel Society’s First Chapters competition. This positive feedback has motivated me to finally finish the novel.

Banner anncouncing The Merchant of Siena as shorlistined for the 2024 First Chapter Competition by the Historical Novel Society

Day 2: Tuesday

Our first full day of writing stretches before me with delicious emptiness full of possibilities. Like everyone, I’m up early and down to the dining room at 8 am for a full English breakfast. I can’t manage the full meal deal and opt for two poached eggs and bacon—my go-to for the rest of the week. Cereals, yogurt, fruit, and juices are also available. But in case you’re interested, here’s a photo of another participant’s full English breakfast! That’s a hearty breakfast for sure!

Full English breakfast served at The Writers Retreat in Yorkshire

After a productive morning, we all gather for lunch and are introduced to Clare Bamber, our mentor/workshop leader for the week. Thanks to Clare, my experience at The Writers’ Retreat is about to go second level. My mentorship sessions with her along with the fun writing workshops she facilitates make my week very special and fulfilling.

Meet Clare Bamber – Mentor Extraordinaire

Clare Bamber is truly a delight. She’s been a tutor and mentor in Creative Writing since 2020 and is passionate about encouraging writers of all levels to explore the craft in a supported, nonjudgmental environment. She states: “Supporting writers at The Writers’ Retreat UK this week has been so much fun. There has been so much diversity in the subject matter, but it’s great to see everyone being supportive of each other in their projects. What a wonderful bunch of people to have spent time with! I crossed the finish line of drafting my own novel whilst on a retreat here, so I understand the value of giving ourselves the space to write.”

Clare Bamber, mentor and workshop leader at The Writers' Retreat in Yorkshire

Where to Find Clare Bamber

You can visit Clare’s website to check out her services for writers or visit her on Facebook.

Workshop: Character Creation

Clare’s first writing workshop is on character creation. The four of us most interested in writing fiction meet with Clare to learn valuable techniques for creating memorable characters. I very much enjoy the exercise that she leads us through. A highlight is listening to what everyone else writes. The level of creativity is astonishing!

Country Walks

After the workshop and on most days during the week, I slip out for a country walk. The village of Beal is situated in the middle of farmland with access to a public footpath bordering the River Aire. I have a grand old time snapping photos of the Constable-like skies, the sheep with their gamboling lambs, and a contingent of curious cows.

Day 3: Wednesday

My writing is starting to click into high gear. I spend my mentorship session with Clare hashing out a plot problem. Together, we come up with some excellent strategies. I’m feeling energized and exhilarated. Writing retreats rock!

I skip the workshop (it was on point of view and I’m sure was wonderful!) only because I’m on a roll and want to get a few more chapters under my belt before dinner.

Carol Cram writing at The Writers Retreat in Beal Yorkshire

At 5, I take off for the only local pub in the village to sip some wine and continue writing before being joined at 6:30 by the rest of the group for a pub dinner. We continue getting to know each other amid much laughter as well as interact with the friendly pub staff.

Some of the Participants Hard at Work

So many work spaces are provided for participants at The Writers’ Retreat. I chose mostly to work in my room because I liked the view. Most of the others spread out among the many areas on the main floor of the converted pub.

Day 4: Thursday

Another mentorship meeting with Clare builds on my progress. She provides excellent and useful feedback about The Merchant of Siena. I’m finally starting to feel like this novel—which I’ve been writing on and off for about five years—is on its way to being completed.

Workshop: Writing Descriptions

In the afternoon, Clare facilitates a workshop on writing good descriptions. Thanks to her advice and prompts, each of us produces and reads two compelling pieces.

Day 5: Friday

Today, I share with Clare the first three chapters of Mill Song, my recently completed fifth novel. As I’ve come to expect from Clare, she provides me with thoughtful and useful feedback. I’m feeling more excited now about getting Mill Song out to the world.

Workshop: Writing Emotion

Our afternoon workshop is on how to effectively write emotion (no easy task). To my delight, I follow Clare’s prompts and end up writing a piece that I’ll be including in The Merchant of Siena. Talk about a win-win!

Day 6: Saturday

After a series of cloudy, wet days, the sun finally emerges on our last full day at The Writers’ Retreat. After five full days of solid writing, I start the final day feeling relaxed and much more confident in my ability to complete and be proud of The Merchant of Siena. I still have a few months worth of work to do before it’s ready to send to an editor, but that’s okay. I’m feeling motivated and confident—and that’s worth a lot!

After lunch, a few of us read a piece of our writing aloud to the group. I share a passage from The Merchant of Siena and am gratified by the positive response. One of our group is leaving, so after the readings, we troop out to the parking lot for a group photo.

Group of participants at the Writers Retreat in Beal, Yorkshire
The writers at The Writers’ Retreat with wonderful staff member Shane

Workshop: Writing Dialogue

Our final workshop with Clare is on how to write good dialogue (another challenging and useful topic). She has a knack for giving us just the right prompts to stimulate the creative juices. I’m amazed at the work each of us produces in a very short time. The creative process really is miraculous.

At the end of the day, we all retire to the pub for a farewell drink and dinner. I go to bed feeling tired but very satisfied with my progress over the week.

Should You Go On A Writers’ Retreat?

In a word, yes. No matter where you are on your writing journey, a writing retreat will help you. Having the time and mental space to do nothing but write and be creative is tremendously therapeutic. No cooking, no cleaning, no kids, no spouses, no day job—just you and your pen or laptop and the infinite possibilities roaming around your head waiting to be led to the light of day.

What could be better than that?

Conclusion

In March 2024, I went on another, very different, writers’ retreat with three other historical novelists. This one was based in sunny and warm Florida and was just as wonderful. Fellow historical novelist and retreatee Mary Tod wrote an interesting blog post about our experience in Florida.

Writers Retreat: Fun, Productive, Informative

Have you ever been on a writers’ retreat? Share your experience in the comments below.

Here are some literary-themed posts on Artsy Traveler:

Exterior of the National Gallery in London

London’s National Gallery: The Best of the Best

I love the National Gallery in London! It’s small enough to enjoy in a few hours without getting exhausted (unlike the Louvre), and yet big enough to include an astonishing collection of masterpieces from the Middle Ages to the Impressionists.

Also, it’s free, which is amazing considering that every other major art museum in Europe charges at least 20 to 30 Euros.

I dropped by the National Gallery fairly late in the day and so only had an hour to spend before it closed. An hour is not enough, but if it’s all you have, you won’t be disappointed.

I wandered in a trance from room to room, eyes tearing up as every turn brought so many favorites before me. An impressive number of biggies are included in the sumptuous rooms.

I hadn’t visited London’s National Gallery for several years, and so was doubly excited to greet so many old friends and to discover several new pieces to admire.

In this post, I showcase some of the highlights.

Note that the images are downloaded from the National Gallery’s website, which allows display of its images for personal use, including blogs. I was glad to discover this because my own photographs are sometimes a bit crooked and ill-lit! Thank you, National Gallery.

Pieces by most of the major painters, including Giotto, Duccio, Lorenzetti, and Lippi, are included in the National Gallery’s medieval collection. One of the reasons why I love medieval Italian painting is because of how the artists depicted buildings. While perspective is generally lacking, the artists of this period captured the essence of medieval towns as a hodgepodge of arches and towers built at varying angles and heights. The arrangements communicate the feeling of a medieval town, rather than just a realistic representation, that still rings true today when you visit places like Siena and San Gimignano in Tuscany.

The Healing of the Man Born Blind by Duccio

I chose this painting because of how Duccio di Buoninsegna depicted the buildings behind the people. I love how the pastel colors of the buildings in the background contrast with the more vibrant robes of the central figures.

This painting is a small panel–one of 54 minutely detailed narrative scenes that was included in Duccio’s Maestà. A massive work, Maestà is considered one of the most ambitious altarpieces ever created. Most of the rest of the altarpiece is on display in the Museo dell’opera del Duomo in Siena. Read about it in my post about top cathedrals in Europe in which I include Siena Cathedral adjacent to the Museo. If you’re in Siena, the Museo dell’opera del Duomo (the museum of the cathedral) is a must-see.

When the Maestà was completed in 1311, it was carried through the streets of Siena. One of the characters in my novel The Towers of Tuscany reminiscences about seeing the procession when she was a young girl.

Duccio The Healing of the Man born Blind 1307/8-11 Egg tempera on wood, 45.1 x 46.7 cm National Gallery in London
Duccio The Healing of the Man born Blind 1307/8-11 Egg tempera on wood, 45.1 x 46.7 cm Bought, 1883 NG1140 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1140

A Group of Four Poor Clares by Ambrogio Lorenzetti

Lorenzetti was active in Siena during the 1300s and likely died of the plague that hit Siena in 1348. I really like his work and so was delighted to discover this piece in the National Gallery. It’s a fragment of a fresco that was discovered under whitewash in 1855. I love the realism of the faces and their pensive expressions.

Ambrogio Lorenzetti A Group of Four Poor Clares possibly about 1336-40 Fresco with areas of secco, 70.4 × 63.4 cm at the National Gallery in London
Ambrogio Lorenzetti A Group of Four Poor Clares possibly about 1336-40 Fresco with areas of secco, 70.4 × 63.4 cm Bought, 1878 NG1147 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1147

Italian Renaissance at the National Gallery

So many masterpieces, so little time! I was rushed by the time I got to the rooms containing some of my favorite artists from the Italian Renaissance, most notably Leonardo da Vinci and Botticelli, so I was unable to linger as long as I would have liked. Still, I managed to soak up the Renaissance vibe.

The Burlington House Cartoon by Leonardo da Vinci

I remember the first time I saw this piece when I was student at Reading University in the 1970s. Reading was only 40 minutes by train from London so I often went up to enjoy the art museums.

The Burlington House Cartoon is a large drawing made in preparation for a painting and is the only surviving large-scale drawing done by da Vinci. I like the contrast of rough and finished in the drawing. Some parts, such as the face of Mary, are beautifully detailed and evocative while others, such as the hand of Saint Anne (Mary’s mother) pointing heavenward, are barely sketched in.

Exhibited in a small, dimly lit room, the piece just glows.

Leonardo da Vinci The Burlington House Cartoon about 1499-1500 Charcoal (and wash?) heightened with white chalk on paper, mounted on canvas, 141.5 x 104.6 cm at the    National Gallery in London
Leonardo da Vinci The Burlington House Cartoon about 1499-1500 Charcoal (and wash?) heightened with white chalk on paper, mounted on canvas, 141.5 x 104.6 cm Purchased with a special grant and contributions from the Art Fund, The Pilgrim Trust, and through a public appeal organised by the Art Fund, 1962 NG6337 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6337

Venus and Mars by Sandro Botticelli

I’ve been a fan of Botticelli’s work since discovering it while taking a first-year History of Art course in 1974. I’d forgotten that Venus and Mars–one of Botticelli’s most famous paintings–is in the National Gallery, and gasped out loud when I entered the roomful of Botticellis. Fortunately, no one noticed.

There’s so much to love about this painting! The look on Venus’s face as she coolly regards the blissed- out Mars is priceless. She’s clearly not all that impressed! And then there are the four mischievious nymphs trying to wake up Mars. One of them is even wearing his helmet.

Sandro Botticelli Venus and Mars about 1485 Tempera and oil on poplar, 69.2 x 173 at the National Gallery in London
Sandro Botticelli Venus and Mars about 1485 Tempera and oil on poplar, 69.2 x 173.4 cm Bought, 1874 NG915 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG915

Flemish Masterpieces at the National Gallery

The National Gallery is particularly well endowed with masterpieces from the northern Renaissance. You’ll find several pieces by Rembrandt, two gems by Vermeer, and a famous van Dyck, among many others.

The Arnolfini Portrait by Jan van Eyck

This is one of the most famous paintings in the National Gallery, and is considered one of the most famous and intriguing paintings in the world. There are so many details to examine, and all have significance. For more information about the painting (which was completed in 1434) and why it’s considered so great, check out this analysis on YouTube.

Jan van Eyck The Arnolfini Portrait 1434 Oil on oak, 82.2 x 60 cm at the National Gallery in London
Jan van Eyck The Arnolfini Portrait 1434 Oil on oak, 82.2 x 60 cm Bought, 1842 NG186 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG186

A Woman Bathing in a Stream by Rembrandt

This is such a tender, beautiful painting by Rembrandt, and a bit of a change from his many portraits and self-portraits. The woman may be Hendrickje Stoffels, who came into Rembrandt’s household to look after his infant son after his first wife, Saskia, died. Hendrickje and Rembrandt became lovers but were unable to marry. There is a universality about the intimate moment caught in the painting that resonates with anyone who has ever taken off their shoes on a hot day to wade in a cool stream.

Rembrandt A Woman bathing in a Stream (Hendrickje Stoffels?) at the National Gallery in London
Rembrandt A Woman bathing in a Stream (Hendrickje Stoffels?) 1654 Oil on oak, 61.8 x 47 cm Holwell Carr Bequest, 1831 NG54 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG54

A Young Woman Seated at a Virginal by Johannes Vermeer

The word exquisite always come to mind when I look at a painting by Vermeer. Detailed and delicate, this painting shows us a moment in time. The young girl is just about to play, but someone or something has distracted her. Whatever it is, she doesn’t look too thrilled.

One of the ways to appreciate just why Vermeer is considered so great is to look at paintings by his contemporaries. Most depict similar subjects, but you can tell right away that there’s something different about the Vermeers. The brushwork is finer, the light more skillfully depicted, the backgrounds more perfectly rendered. Vermeer didn’t paint many pieces during his lifetime, but what he did paint was pretty amazing.

hannes Vermeer A Young Woman seated at a Virginal about 1670-2 Oil on canvas, 51.5 x 45.5 cm at the National Gallery in London
Johannes Vermeer A Young Woman seated at a Virginal about 1670-2 Oil on canvas, 51.5 x 45.5 cm Salting Bequest, 1910 NG2568 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG2568

A Boy and A Girl with a Cat and an Eel by Judith Leyster

I was super excited to come across this painting by Judith Leyster, who has been getting more recognition in recent years. The boy and the girl are definitely up to no good!

Judith Leyster A Boy and a Girl with a Cat and an Eel about 1635 Oil on oak, 59.4 × 48.8 cm at the National Gallery in London
Judith Leyster A Boy and a Girl with a Cat and an Eel about 1635 Oil on oak, 59.4 × 48.8 cm Bequeathed by C.F. Leach, 1943 NG5417 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG5417

The Four Elements: Air, Earth, Fire, Water by Joachim Beuckelaer

I had never seen these paintings before. They are not particularly famous, but they are interesting. I couldn’t stop looking at them.

Each painting depicts food according to its relationship to one of the four elements. In the Air painting, birds are being plucked and sold. Some impressive-looking vegetables are on display in the Earth painting. The Fire painting depicts game being butchered and roasted, and finally many different varieties of fish are ready for market in the Water painting.

The expressions on the faces of the people in the paintings are blank and dour. No one looks like they are enjoying themselves! But the colors and textures of the foods are so incredibly real. They almost look like they are about to spill out of the paintings onto the floor of the gallery.

Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Air 1570 Oil on canvas, 158 × 216 cm  at the National Gallery in London
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Air 1570 Oil on canvas, 158 × 216 cm Bought, 2001 NG6587 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6587
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Earth 1569 Oil on canvas, 158 × 215.4 cm  at the National Gallery in London
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Earth 1569 Oil on canvas, 158 × 215.4 cm Bought, 2001 NG6585 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6585
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Fire 1570 Oil on canvas  at the National Gallery in London
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Fire 1570 Oil on canvas, 158.2 × 215.4 cm Bought, 2001 NG6588 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6588
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Water 1569 Oil on canvas, 158.1 × 214.9 cm  at the National Gallery in London
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Water 1569 Oil on canvas, 158.1 × 214.9 cm Bought, 2001 NG6586 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6586

Baroque Paintings at the National Gallery

Boy Bitten by a Lizard by Caravaggio

In a room full of great paintings, I was instantly drawn to this small painting by Caravaggio of a boy being bitten by a lizard. The expression on his face is so real and so relatable. The painting was completed in Rome in the mid-1590s and was considered innovative for the time. Apparently, it was unusual for a late-16th-century painting to show such a moment of action. Caravaggio, however, wasn’t worried about following artistic conventions. He painted directly on the canvas from live models

 Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio Boy bitten by a Lizard about 1594-5 Oil on canvas, 66 x 49.5 cm at the National Gallery in London
Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio Boy bitten by a Lizard about 1594-5 Oil on canvas, 66 x 49.5 cm Bought with the aid of a contribution from the J. Paul Getty Jr Endowment Fund, 1986 NG6504 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6504

British Painting at the National Gallery

The Fighting Temeraire by William Turner

My father bought a print of this painting when he first visited London in the 1960s. It was probably the first real painting I’d ever seen, and I remember loving to look at it when I was a child. When I saw it again in the National Gallery, I couldn’t help feeling emotional since my father has been gone for several years now and my mother passed quite recently.

Turner’s painting shows the final journey of the Temeraire, a warship that had played a distinguished role in the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, but by 1838 was ready for the scrap heap. It’s a poignant scene in its depiction of the age of sail giving way to the age of steam. Turner, of course, was most famous for his depiction of light, which is on full display in the magnificent sunset depicted in the painting.

The painting is one of Turner’s most famous and duly celebrated, but for me it will always remind me of my childhood home.

Joseph Mallord William Turner The Fighting Temeraire 1839 Oil on canvas, 90.7 x 121.6 cm at the National Gallery in London
Joseph Mallord William Turner The Fighting Temeraire 1839 Oil on canvas, 90.7 x 121.6 cm Turner Bequest, 1856 NG524 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG524

Impressionists and Post-Impressionists at the National Gallery

The rooms displaying paintings by the Impressionists and post-Impressionists are generally mobbed at the National Gallery. So many famous pieces are included! Stand in the middle of one of the rooms and rotate slowly. If you’re a fan of this era and style of art, you’ll likely recognize just about every piece in the room, from the iconic Sunflowers by van Gogh to the massive painting of The Bathers by Seurat and the sublime waterlilies by Monet.

I’d forgotten just how rich the National Gallery’s collection of Impressionists is and spent my first few minutes in the rooms exclaiming (to myself), they have that? and that one? oh, my, and that one too? This is incredible!

I had to sit down a few times just to collect myself. I’ve picked out four of my favorites (but it was a tough choice).

Waterlilies by Monet

This luscious painting dominates one entire wall and is hard to get a full-on look at thanks to the throngs of like-minded visitors standing in front of it. This piece is one that was not included in the collection of large waterlily paintings in Musėe de l’Orangerie in Paris (check out my round-up of Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris for more about the Monets in the Orangerie).

The waterlily paintings in the Orangerie include details of trees and foliage that anchor the viewer and give them a sense of location. But this painting in the National Gallery is completely free-flowing. You have no idea where in the pond you are; you’re immersed in a shimmering world of greens and pinks and purples. No photograph can do it justice; you need to stand in front of the real thing and just drink it in.

Claude Monet Water-Lilies after 1916 Oil on canvas, 200.7 x 426.7 cm at the National Gallery in London
Claude Monet Water-Lilies after 1916 Oil on canvas, 200.7 x 426.7 cm Bought, 1963 NG6343 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6343

Sunflowers by Vincent van Gogh

This cheerful painting of sunflowers exuberantly clumped together in a plain vase signed by “Vincent” is probably the most famous of van Gogh’s works. It appears on a dizzying array of merchandise in the gift shop, from mugs to cards to t-shirts to umbrellas.

Why is this painting so famous? I think because it looks like sunshine on canvas. The varying shades of yellow and gold that van Gogh uses perfectly capture the feeling of a hot day in late summer when some sunflowers are still in bloom, others have just passed their peak and are starting to wilt, and still others have lost their petals completely.

This version of Sunflowers is one of five, the other four being on display in art museums around the world including the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam (always worth a visit!). Apparently, van Gogh made the paintings to decorate his house in Arles in preparation for a visit from fellow artist Paul Gauguin.

Vincent van Gogh Sunflowers 1888 Oil on canvas, 92.1 x 73 cm  at the National gallery in London
Vincent van Gogh Sunflowers 1888 Oil on canvas, 92.1 x 73 cm Bought, Courtauld Fund, 1924 NG3863 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG3863

Bathers at Asnières by Georges Seurat

The painting depicts regular people enjoying a day off at the river, the factories they work in visible in the distance, their focus on the feel of warm grass and cool water. It’s a snapshot in time. Each person is immersed in his own thoughts; each is alone, the exhaustion of a week at work still heavy on their shoulders even on their day off.

This massive painting is famous for its use of pointillism and was Seurat’s first major composition. He painted it at the age of 24 to make his mark at the official Salon in the spring of 1884. Unfortunately, the painting was rejected!

Georges Seurat Bathers at Asnières 1884 Oil on canvas, 201 × 300 cm at the National Gallery in London
Georges Seurat Bathers at Asnières 1884 Oil on canvas, 201 × 300 cm Bought, Courtauld Fund, 1924 NG3908 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG3908

Surprised! by Rousseau

This painting by Rousseau was new to me, and I just loved it! Look at the expression on the tiger’s face! Has he been frightened by the flashes of lightning and the sudden wind blowing the jungle foliage all over the place? Who knows? But it’s such a wonderfully lush moment. Surprised! was the first of about 20 jungle paintings that Rousseau produced. His jungles are entirely imaginary; Rousseau never left France.

He was an amateur artist who faced a fair bit of ridicule from the art establishment, but now Rousseau is considered a pioneer of “naïve art.”

Henri Rousseau Surprised! 1891 Oil on canvas, 129.8 x 161.9 cm at the  National Gallery in London
Henri Rousseau Surprised! 1891 Oil on canvas, 129.8 x 161.9 cm Bought, with the aid of a substantial donation from the Hon. Walter H. Annenberg, 1972 NG6421 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6421

National Gallery Details

The National Gallery is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm and on Fridays until 9 pm. It’s located on Trafalgar Square and entry is free, although donations are welcomed. The nearest Tube stations are Charing Cross and Leicester Square.

Tours of the National Gallery

Every so often, I spring for a guided tour of an art museum and I’m never disappointed. Here are some options for touring the National Gallery.

Conclusion

Have you visited the National Gallery? What are some of your favorites? Share in the Comments below. Want more posts about art museums? Here are some posts about great art museums in Europe that I’ve visited and recommend:

Birmingham city center canals

Birmingham: A Pleasant Surprise for the Artsy Traveler

Back in the day, industrial Birmingham did not have the best of reputations. I lived in England for four years in the 1970s and have been back many times, but never have I put Birmingham on my itinerary. I remember changing trains there in 1979 and walking quickly and a tad nervously between stations.

But over the last few decades, Birmingham has undergone a transformation.

Why I Went to Birmingham

While planning my solo trip to England in 2022, I put Birmingham on my list for one reason only. I wanted to visit a National Trust property called Birmingham Back to Backs. It’s not a grand country house like the vast majority of National Trust properties, but rather a nondescript collection of cramped houses built around a courtyard in the style known as back-to-back.

For over two centuries, millions of Britons (including some of my ancestors) lived and worked in this type of housing. I was writing a novel set in a mill town in Yorkshire in the 1890s and wanted to know how regular people lived. Since the Birmingham Back to Backs property is the only one of its kind left in England, I booked two nights in Birmingham to see it.

But I had zero expectations of what else I’d see and do while in Birmingham.

Birmingham Map

The map below includes all the locations mentioned in this post. I suggest staying in the Gas Street Basin area (see below). You can walk pretty much everywhere from there or grab an Uber.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

Arrival in Birmingham

I arrived at Birmingham New Street Train Station (#5 on the map above) at 7 pm after a wonderful day tootling around the Cotswolds on a Go Cotswolds tour (read my post all about it!) and took a taxi to the AC Marriott hotel located on the edge of the Gas Street Basin (#3 on the map above) in Birmingham’s bustling and refurbished city center.

The AC Marriott is located in Gas Street Basin in the building called The Mailbox

The second largest city in England, Birmingham appears to be booming. After checking in to the hotel, I emerged quayside to the Gas Street Basin to survey a plethora of modern architecture, colorful boats cruising along canals lined with posh restaurants and bustling pubs, and throngs of people out having a good time.

Birmingham apparently has more miles of canals than Venice. Who knew?

The city planners got things right with this area of Birmingham. It’s incredibly people-friendly with its canal-side walkways and aura of peaceful prosperity.

Revitalized Birmingham

A Full Day in Birmingham

While enjoying my first coffee of the day at a coffee shop on the main floor of the hotel, I tried to listen in on the conversation between two men sitting next to me. They were speaking English—I think. The famous Brummie accent really is just about incomprehensible, at least to me.

I needed to listen very, very carefully to hear more than a series of rumbles and mumbles with swallowed consonants and vowels and glottal stops. Clipped words emerged from throats that sounded like they’d been stuffed with cotton. I worried the men were choking, but no, they were just having a regular conversation. I’ve eavesdropped on French conversations and understood more!

So far, I’ve had to ask anyone I’ve interacted with to repeat themselves several times. Even a phrase like Anything else? asked by the coffee person comes out as noise.

And I thought the Scots accent was hard to understand! The Birmingham accent has it beat, hands down.

Birmingham Back to Backs

As mentioned, I decided to spend a full day in Birmingham to tour the Birmingham Back to Backs (#1 on the map above), a National Trust property that promises to let visitors experience 200 years of working people’s lives in the heart of Birmingham.

A hundred years ago, the Midlands and North of England were full of these brick structures built to accommodate the millions of factory workers needed to keep the industrial revolution ticking over.

I purchased my ticket a month prior (pre-booking is essential) and arrived at 10:30 am for the first tour of the day.

Entrance to Birmingham Back-to-Backs National Trust Property
Entrance to Birmingham Back to Backs National Trust Property

For almost two hours, I enjoyed one of the most comprehensive and interesting tours I’ve ever experienced.

The National Trust is known for its stewardship of massive stately homes—domains of the 1%. I’ve visited many of these homes over the years and marveled at the art and architecture.

The Birmingham Back to Backs are at the opposite end of the wealth spectrum. That the National Trust also recognized the need to preserve the type of building in which a great majority of the population lived right up until the early 2000s is to its credit.

What are Back to Backs?

The Back to Backs are houses built, as the name suggests, back-to-back, with half the houses facing the street and the other half facing an inner courtyard. A collection of these houses is known as a court. Some courts included dozens of houses. The National Trust has preserved Court 15, a community of eleven houses thought to have housed over 500 different families over its 200-year lifespan.

The courtyard at the Birmingham Back-to-Backs
The courtyard at the Birmingham Back to Backs

A very knowledgeable guide took our group into four homes and related the stories of the occupants from four time periods between 1840 and 1977. In our group of 9, everyone except me hailed from England.

One of the men, who was about my age, told us that his mum had been born in a Back to Back. I’m pretty sure my grandmother and certainly my great-grandmother would have lived in similar housing up in Yorkshire.

House 1: 1851

Each of the four houses we visit was decorated in the style of a different time period. The first was from 1851 and was occupied by the Levy family, a Jewish family who migrated to Birmingham from London. The house was surprisingly comfortable, even spacious, although certainly not luxurious. Lawrence Levy had been a watchmaker and had his workshop on the top floor.

We climbed up and down tiny twisting stairways numerous times during the tour. Handrails and grips were provided for safety, but the guide informed us that back in the day, none of the staircases would have had handrails. She asked us to imagine how agile a woman would have needed to be to mount the stairs while wearing long skirts and carrying a candle in one hand and probably a baby in the other. Apparently, accidents were common, and no wonder.

Even hanging on with both hands, I could barely make it up some of the almost vertical stairways!

House 2: 1860s

The next house we entered belonged to the Oldfield family who lived in one of the back houses in the 1860s. Eleven people lived in the house at that time—two parents, seven children, and two lodgers all crammed into three floors consisting of one room per floor that also included space for Herbert Oldfield’s workshop. He was a glassworker who made glass eyes for dolls and stuffed toys.

One of the double beds had four pillows—two at each end. Four children would have slept top to tail in the bed, with likely one more in the middle! The guide also showed us a bureau drawer in which the baby would sleep.

A curtain divided the children’s bed from another double bed slept in by two lodgers. A man and a woman (unmarried) shared the bed but apparently not at the same time. One worked the day shift and the other the night shift so they were two ships passing in the night. Their space was bare of everything except a bed and a high shelf on which was stacked a small collection of books. The entire room was maybe 12’ x 12’.

The overcrowding must have been horrendous—and yet very common. My great-grandmother with her twelve brothers and sisters would have lived in a similar place when she was young. She eloped in 1903 and emigrated to Canada in 1911 when my grandmother was five years old. The log cabin she inhabited in British Columbia with her four children and no running water must have seemed like paradise compared to the housing of her youth.

Entrance to the communal wash house at the Birmingham Back-to-Backs
Entrance to the communal wash house at the Birmingham Back to Backs

House 3: 1830s-1935

Three generations of the third family—the Mitchells—lived at Court 15 from the 1830s, when water had to be brought from the well a few blocks away, until 1935 when the houses had basic plumbing and electricity.

The prevailing feeling in the small rooms was how cramped, dark, and uncomfortable they must have been to live in. The upper floors had no heat, and damp was a constant problem.

House 4: 1960s-2002

The final house was lived in by George Saunders who migrated to Birmingham in 1958 from St. Kitts in the Caribbean. By that time, the ground floor of Court 15 had been converted to shops with some people still living in the floors above. George was a tailor and the last person who worked in Court 15 before its closure in 2002.

Special Exhibition at Birmingham Back to Backs

After enjoying the tour (highly recommended), I toured the special exhibitions. The most interesting documented the Child’s Emigration Homes founded by John T. Milldemore in 1873. The Homes sent 5000 orphans and desperately poor children from Birmingham to Ontario, Nova Scotia, and British Columbia in Canada. Between 1922 and 1955, they sent another 259 children to Australia.

While some children thrived in their new homes, others did not and suffered terrible abuse. The pictures and commentary are both heartbreaking and compelling.

Photograph of Mary S., living in poverty in Birmingham in 1896 and allegedly better off in Canada in 1897
George Before and After

Birmingham Back to Backs Practical Information

Operated by the National Trust, the Birmingham Back to Backs are accessible only by a guided tour that you must book in advance. Here’s the link. Tours are offered from 10:00 to 15:00 daily (closed Monday). Admission is free to National Trust members. Non-member prices are £9.50 for adults and £4.75 for children.

The Barber Institute of Fine Arts

After a lunch of leftover chicken wings from my dinner the night before, I set off for the Barber Institute of Fine Arts (#2). I had wanted to visit the Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery (#6) which is said to be world-class and have an excellent collection of paintings by the pre-Raphaelites. However, it was undergoing renovations, with almost all the galleries closed.

Housed in an imposing building on the campus of the University of Birmingham, the Barber Institute of Fine Arts was also reputed to have a fine collection so off I went. I took my first Birmingham Uber with a young man originally from Haiti who was very interested in learning all about Canada. We had a great chat as he drove me through the posh area of Birmingham with large houses and leafy avenues on our way to the university.

The Barber Institute Collection

The collection at the Barber Institute of Fine Arts was small but quite exquisite. I spent a happy hour wandering past works from the 14th to the 19th centuries. Here are a few highlights.

Dürer Special Exhibition

One room was dedicated to a special exhibition of etchings by Albrecht Dürer. I’ve had a soft spot for Dürer even since touring his house in Nuremberg on a trip to Germany in 2015.

Etching of a greyhound by Albrecht Dürer
Etching of a greyhound by Albrecht Dürer

Medieval Art

One of the first rooms included a good collection of medieval art (always my favorite). Here’s a piece by Simone Martini (1284-1344) of Saint John the Evangelist. Painted in Siena in 1320, the piece originally formed the right-hand panel of a triptych. Although there is no signature on the piece to prove it was painted by Martini, the refined use of color, the elegant borders to the drapery, and the decoration in the gilding are characteristic of Martini’s style, which was very innovative for the time.

Flemish Art

I am fascinated by the still life paintings common in Flanders during the 16th and 17th centuries. The Barber had several interesting examples, including the two shown below.

A Still Life with a Nautilus Cup by Jan Davidsz de Heem

I love how the objects have been arranged in this painting to demonstrate how well the artist is able to show the play of light on different materials–shell, pewter, leaves, fruit, etc., using only a few colors. Jan Davidsz de Heem (1606-1683/4) lived in Leiden, Holland.

A Still Life with a Nautilus Cup by Jan Davidsz de Heem
A Still Life with a Nautilus Cup by Jan Davidsz de Heem
Still Life with a Garland of Fruit by Maria Tassaert

A woman artist! You don’t see many of them, although I noticed on my trip in 2022 that changes are afoot. In most galleries, I found a least a few paintings by female old masters as more and more of them are being rediscovered and given their due.

Maria Tassaert (about 1642-1668) lived and worked in Antwerp in Flanders. The painting is a celebration of Nature’s bounty and the artist’s technical skills in depicting a cluster of fruit that includes cherries, white peaches, white and black grapes, nectarines, raspberries, blackberries, and gooseberries in addition to ivy and fruit-tree leaves.

Still Life with a Garland of Fruit by Maria Tassaert - a still life from the 17th century Flanders
Still Life with a Garland of Fruit by Maria Tassaert

Impressionists

The Barber Institute includes a few beautiful paintings from the 19th century, including a very fine Renoir.

A Young Woman Seated by Pierre-Auguste Renoir

This work became know as La Pensée or Thought and was painted around 1876. The soft oranges, reds, greens, and blues are typical of the Impressionist pallette during that period.

Painting called A Young Woman Seated by Pierre-Auguste Renoir
A Young Woman Seated by Pierre-Auguste Renoir

Pre-Raphaelites

The Last of England by Ford Madox Brown

One of the Barber Institutes major works is The Last of England by pre-Raphaelite artist Ford Madox Brown. It’s one of the masterworks of Victorian painting and one of the very few pieces in the collection that I was not allowed to photograph. Thank goodness for Wikipedia Commons (see picture below).

The painting depicts a young family huddled together on an open boat on their way to a ship that will take them from England to a new life in the colonies. The resigned expressions on their faces as they leave behind their home is caught with painstaking detail.

Ford Madox Brown, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Barber Institute of Fine Arts Practical Information

The Barber Institute of Fine Arts is located on the campus of the University of Birmingham and is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 17:00. Admission is free.

Strolling Around the Canals

I took an Uber back to my hotel and went for a stroll along the canals in the area immediately adjacent to Gas Street Basin (#3) where I was staying. Restaurants and upscale pubs line the canals which were teeming with people enjoying the Bank Holiday Sunday.

The prevailing atmosphere was prosperous, cheerful, and incredibly diverse. Everyone seemed to be under forty, many pushing strollers. People from all over the world have made Birmingham their home, which rivals London for the diversity of its population.

Birmingham Canals
Brummies at play in a Birmingham plaza

What Else to See and Do in Birmingham

With only a day to spare, I didn’t have time to enjoy all the delights of Birmingham. Here are some suggestions if you have some extra hours. I particularly recommend the walking tours.

Where to Stay in Birmingham

I recommend staying in the vicinity of the Gas Street Basin, preferably overlooking one of the canals. I stayed in the AC Hotel by Marriott and can recommend it. The room was spacious, the staff friendly and helpful, and the large bar very comfortable. Also, the location overlooking the Gas Street Basin can’t be beat. Right outside your door are plenty of restaurants and cafes.

Here are some other options:



Booking.com

Birmingham Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Birmingham!

Conclusion

Have you visited Birmingham? Any suggestions for what to see and do? Share in the comments below.

Here are more posts about cool places to visit in England;

View of heather and moorland in Yorkshire

Discover Yorkshire: Best Places for the Artsy Traveler

I first visited Yorkshire in 1974 at the age of eighteen during my epic around-England-by-train journey with two friends (read about that trip!).

The wonderful town of York quickly became our favorite because there was so much to see and do, even back in the 1970s. It’s a tourist town with several noteworthy sites including the incomparable York Minster, the York Castle Museum, and the Jorvick Viking Centre.

York also makes an excellent home base from which to explore Yorkshire. As England’s largest county (by far), Yorkshire is otherwise known as God’s Country by the locals. I have a special affinity to Yorkshire. My grandmother was born in Masham in Yorkshire and often talked fondly of her early years there, and I’ve set my fifth novel there.

In this post, I detail what to see in York and describe two full-day, small-group tours I took in 2022. As I’ve mentioned elsewhere on Artsy Traveler, I’m a big fan of small-group day tours. The two I took from York were first-rate.

York

York Minster dominates the walled city of York. A tourist mecca with plenty of shops and services for visitors, it’s also small enough to walk around easily. I recommend staying for at least two nights (and preferably three).

While in York, I visited the Yorkshire Museum, York Minster, the York Castle Museum, and Jorvick Viking Centre. In addition, I took a shamble through the Shambles and enjoyed three excellent meals.

Here are a few other tours in York offered by Get Your Guide, a company I’ve taken tours with and can recommend.

Yorkshire Museum

The Yorkshire Museum is located in the Museum Gardens, which is about a 10-minute walk from the York Railway station next to the river and from the Bootham Gate leading into the ancient center of York where York Minster is located.

The museum itself is small and probably only worth a visit if the special exhibition interests you. When I visited, an informative exhibition about the Ryedale Hoard was featured. The Ryedale Hoard is a collection of bronze Roman objects discovered by detectorists in North Yorkshire in 2020. A small bronze bust of the Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius is the centerpiece of the collection.

The small bronze bust of the Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius, part of the Ryedale Hoard in the Yorkshire Museum
The small bronze bust of the Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius, part of the Ryedale Hoard

The exhibition also includes other Roman objects and interesting descriptions of who might have buried the hoard—A priest? A landowner? A metalworker? And why? That’s the Ryedale Hoard mystery.

As well, the museum features a Jurassic exhibition and plenty of medieval and Roman objects. It’s definitely worth a quick visit if you’re into history, archaeology, and geology (and who isn’t?).

Yorkshire Museum Practical Information

The Yorkshire Museum is open Tuesday – Sunday from 11 am to 5 pm. Admission is £8 online / £8.75 walk-up price for Adults and Seniors; £4 online / £4.40 walk-up price for children ages 5-16; and £7.20 / £7.90 walk-up price for Students/Young People. The website advises booking online prior to visiting the museum.

York Minster

The headliner in York is York Minster, and no wonder! The magnificent cathedral dominates the skyline of York for miles around. I’ve visited York several times, and I still got a thrill every time I turned a corner and saw the Minster’s towers poking the sky between the buildings.

Interior of the magnificent York Minster in Yorkshire
Interior looking toward the altar of York Minster in Yorkshire

You’ll pay an admission fee to enter the Minster, but it’s money well spent. A big reason for the entrance fee is that it apparently costs £22,000 a day to keep the Minster open and operating. If you have time, visit around 5 pm to enjoy Evensong during which the choir sings accompanied by the organ–guaranteed to give you chills!

One of the coolest things about York Minster is how the facade changes with the light. I took a lot of pictures during my three-day stay. Every time I was in the vicinity of York Minster, it looked different! Here are two views.

York Minster facade on a bright sunny day with a blue sky
Bright sunny day
York Minster facade at Sunset
Sunset

For more information about York Minster, check out this post about 18 Incredible York Minster Facts.

York Minster Practical Information

York Minster is open Monday to Saturday from 9:30 am to 4 pm and on Sunday from 12:45 pm to 3:15 pm. Online ticket prices are Adult/Senior – £12.50; Students (not studying in York) – £9.50; Child (16 and under)* – free with a paying adult; York resident/York student – free with proof of address. Check the York Minster website to buy tickets online and also to check times for Evensong.

York Castle Museum

York Castle Museum is one of my favorite all-round cool museums in Britain. You can spend hours here prowling through the many exhibits designed to bring history to life.

I particularly enjoyed the re-creations of rooms from past eras. Here are two of them.

View of a reconstructed 17th century view featured at the York Castle Museum in York, Yorkshire
17th Century
View of a reconstructed Victorian siting room featured at the York Castle Museum in York, Yorkshire
19th Century

Another favorite room features costumes dating from the early 19th century to the present day. I got a kick out of this coat from the early 1970s, which is very similar to one I owned in 1974 when I was a student at Reading University!

1960s style coat on display at the York Castle Museum
Throwback time!

I spent quite a bit of time watching videos that bring to life the differences between work in the “olden” days and now. Two people–one from modern times and one from the early 1900s–spoke about their jobs. A maid in a country house talked with a cashier in a modern supermarket; a bank clerk from 1900 talked with a modern office worker, and so on. I was fascinated and had to watch all of the variations! The nature and quantity of work certainly has changed over the centuries.

One area of the museum is devoted to displaying full-size recreated streets from the early 20th century. Costumed guides happy to share their knowledge staff many of the shops.

View of a late 19th century street, a reconstruction in the York Castle Museum in York
View of a late-19th-century street, a reconstruction in the York Castle Museum in York

York Castle Museum Practical Information

The York Castle Museum is open Monday from 11 am to 5 pm and Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm. Admission is £13 online / £14 walk-up price for Adults and Seniors; £6.50 online / £7 walk-up price for children ages 5-16; and £11.70 / £12.60 walk-up price for Students/Young People. The website advises booking online prior to visiting the museum.

Jorvik Viking Centre

The Jorvik Viking Centre is touted as a major attraction in York and for good reason. It’s kind of cheesy, to be honest, but it’s still worth visiting to get a sense of what life was like back in the 800s when York was a Viking town.

After arriving at the Jorvik Viking Centre, I boarded a slow-moving, Disney-style ride (think It’s a Small World) and was whisked (slowly) away on a journey through a Viking town. Commentary is available in multiple languages. The dioramas and figures are life-like and give a pretty good sense of how the world might have looked back in the day. All that’s missing are the smells!

A viking with his dog
A viking making things out of antlers

I enjoyed the ride and the displays afterwards. Good-humored, costumed guides occasionally give demonstrations of various Viking crafts. A real Viking village was probably not quite so jolly.

Costomed Viking woman with child next to a vegetable stall at the Jorvik Viking Center in York in Yorkshire
Viking mum and child with vegetables

Jorvik Viking Centre Practical Information

The Jorvik Viking Centre is usually open from 10 am to 6 pm. Check the website for varying hours depending on the time of year. The Centre is a very popular tourist destination. Book your visit a few days in advance to select the time you want to visit and also avoid disappointment. Popular time slots sell out quickly. Admission is £13.50 for Adults; £9.50 for children ages 5-16 accompanied by an adult; £11.50 for students with valid student ID, and £11.50 for seniors 60+. Visit the website to book online.

The Shambles

The Shambles is a touristy but still fun street in York. Although only a block long, the street is one of the few remaining in Britain that retains its medieval character. Buildings jut out over the narrow street which is more like an alleyway.

Capitalizing on the Harry Potter franchise, the street contains several “magic” stores. The area is worth a quick walk through, preferably in the evening after the crowds of tourists have somewhat dissipated.

The Shambles street--a narrow medieval street in York
The Shambles in York
Harry Potter-like shop in York
Harry Potter spin-off shop

Tours of York with Tiqets.com

Here are some tours offered through Tiqets.com

Yorkshire Moors Tour

I signed up for a full-day tour of the moors with Grand Yorkshire Tours. Called “Steam Trains, Whitby & the Moors”, the tour promises a full day with no more than seven people in a small minivan. Hotel pickup and steam train tickets are included.

At exactly 9 am, as promised, the driver pulls up in front of Jorvik House Hotel and I jump into the minivan where my six companions are already settled: a couple from Florida, a man from Colorado Springs, another couple from Cheltenham in the UK, and a woman from Tunisia who has lived for many years in the US.

And me, as usual the lone Canadian.

Our driver, Peter, is a Yorkshire native who takes us on a comprehensive tour through several of Yorkshire’s scenic hot spots. Yorkshire is so large that I book another tour for the following day that features the Yorkshire Dales because the itineraries are completely different.

Helmsley

Our first stop is the idyllic little town of Helmsley on the edge of the North York Moors National Park where our driver is from. He advises us to take the iconic shot of the church (see below), which I of course do.

View of bridge and church in Helmsley in Yorkshire
Iconic shot of Helmsley in Yorkshire

With my touristic duty done, I take stock of Helmsley’s many scrummy-looking bakeries and tea shops. I try to resist the siren call of the scones, but in vain. I buy two. One is chock-a-block with candied fruit and the other packed full of cheese.

Both are achingly fresh and fluffy and buttery.

Yorkshire Moors

We drive up into the Yorkshire moors and learn about the history of the area—from Romans to Vikings to the Middle Ages and then the reformation which certainly caused a lot of damage to local monasteries and churches. The views are stunning.

I’m lucky to be visiting at the tail end of heather season. Clumps of vivid purple carpet large swathes of the brown moors. Every so often, a sheep wanders by. As Peter says, we are driving through their home since most sheep live on the moors year round.

The author Carol Cram on the Yorkshire moors
Carol Cram on the Yorkshire Moors

I learn that heather moorland is rare compared to other types of land. One of the world’s largest continuous expanses of upland heather moorland is in the North York Moors.

A man talking about moorland on a hill overlooking a spectacular view of moors in Yorkshire
Peter, the guide on Grand Yorkshire Tours, talk about moorland and heather

I also learn that the moors are actually man-made. The landscape looks so wild that it’s hard to believe it hasn’t always looked that way. But nope. As early as the Iron Age 4,000 years ago, people were wanting to farm crops and pasture animals. 

They cut down the vast forests that had covered the area to make clearings for farms. As the population grew, the forests diminished until by the Middle Ages, most of the woodland had disappeared.

Here’s a video shot atop the Yorkshire moors. Spectacular!

Whitby

The seaside town of Whitby is a revelation. The only thing I know about Whitby is that it’s on the sea. As a result, I’m pleasantly surprised to discover a fabulous abbey perched high on cliffs overlooking the sparkling blue North Sea, a charming old town, the best fish and chips in the UK (their claim and it seems valid), a Captain Cook Museum, and a major connection to Dracula.

The seaside town of Whitby

Goths Rule in Whitby

Wander the streets of Whitby and you’ll eventually come across young women (and sometimes men) dressed head to toe in artfully tattered black clothes and wearing heavy black make-up and an earnest expression. You’ll be right to presume they are visiting Whitby because of the Dracula connection.

Twice I pass a family that makes me smile. Mum and Dad are typical middle-class English folks—the kind of conservatively dressed, comfortable-looking people you see every day. Their daughter, however, wears a long black gown (tattered, of course), carries a black parasol, and is wearing the most outlandish black eye make-up I’ve ever seen. The three of them wander around the Abbey ruins and then later I see them in the town enjoying fish and chips. The daughter’s appearance barely merits the occasional glance from passersby.

Bram Stoker & Whitby

Bram Stoker arrived in Whitby in July of 1890. The windswept headland and spooky abbey ruins combined with the atmospheric old town and North Sea views were ripe for exploiting by an over-active imagination (which Stoker had in spades).

Black and white photograph of Bram Stoker who spent time in Whitby, Yorkshire where he was inspired to write Dracula
Bram Stoker – Wikipedia

He hung around the town for a few weeks presumably enjoying the sea air before fate stepped in. Stoker visited the local library and discovered a book published in 1820 that recorded the experiences of William Wilkinson, a British consul in Bucharest. While traveling in Wallachia and Moldavia (now in Romania), Wilkinson learned about Vlad Tepes, a charming fellow known as Dracula, aka “son of the dragon.” He had a not-so-charming habit of impaling his enemies on wooden stakes.

Anyway, Bram Stoker’s imagination went into overdrive and 130 years later, heavily gothed-up young people take day trips to Whitby to wander the Abbey ruins, presumably with vampiric intentions, and then descend the 199 steps to the old town to enjoy fish and chips followed by teeth-breaking encounters with pieces of Whitby rock (an iconic hard candy with a vivid pink coating).

Whitby Abbey

Peter drops us off at the Abbey and advises us to walk down the 199 steps to the town and meet him two hours later at the train station. The weather obliges with brilliant blue skies against which the Abbey ruins photograph beautifully. I wander around the ruins for a while, dodging the occasional Goth girl, and have a quick look in the museum.

Whitby Abbey in Yorkshire
A stunning location for Whitby Abbey in Yorkshire

I read that on May 26, 2022, which is the 125th anniversary of Bram Stoker’s novel Dracula, 1,369 vampires showed up to celebrate. The event was billed as the largest gathering of people dressed as vampires in the world. Now that’s an event to really get your teeth into.

The first Whitby Abbey was a 7th-century Christian monastery that later became a Benedictine abbey. It was a major center of learning for about 800 years until it was confiscated and then destroyed by Henry VIII during the dissolution of the monasteries (1536-1545). Henry certainly was busy in the area.

Descending 199 Steps to the Old Town of Whitby

I am glad to be descending the steps rather than ascending. Many more people are climbing up and I’m a bit alarmed by the look of some them as, red-faced and panting, they struggle up the stairs.

Every few feet, I pause to snap yet another gorgeous photo until finally I’m walking along the narrow, twisty streets of the old town.

View of a large stone cross and the North Sea beyond from Whitby in Yorkshire
Looking out over a graveyard in Whitby

The Captain Cook Memorial Museum is nearby but, cognizant of the need to have lunch and then be on time for the bus, I reluctantly pass on it. I head across the bridge to the new town and buy a take-away of fish and chips.

Eating in Whitby

I’ve never seen so many fish and chips shops, ice cream parlors, and candy stores in one place in my life. And business is brisk. Although it’s the day after the Monday bank holiday, the streets are packed with holiday makers.

For just £8.50 (including a can of pop), my lunch is an amazing bargain. The piece of haddock is huge and absolutely the best I’ve ever tasted. Crunchy light batter coats a thick piece of meaty white haddock that tastes light and of the sea. Marvelous!

I settle on to a bench alongside the harbor and watch the world go by as I enjoy my fish and chips. Judging from the conversations I overhear, pretty much everyone is local. And almost everyone has a dog—from whippets and dachshunds to spaniels and labs and everything in between.

A medium portion of fish and chips in Whitby
A medium portion of fish and chips in Whitby

Taking the Steam Train

After Whitby, our next stop is tiny Goathland station, made famous in the Harry Potter movies as the location of Hogsmeade station. Part of the tour includes a one-hour ride on the steam train that journeys along the North Yorkshire Moors Railway to the town of Pickering.

Unfortunately, an exceedingly dry summer has resulted in a ban on steam engines. Apparently, they pose a fire hazard. As a result, the carriages are drawn by a common-or-garden diesel engine which is a bit of a disappointment but can’t be helped.

Here is the train pulling into the station–a video that would be a bit more dramatic if the train was the regular steam train, but you get the idea.

Train pulling into Goathland Station in Yorkshire

The journey takes us through dark forests and across wide expanses to purple heather and dry yellow grasses. I marvel at the quantity of wild land in such a crowded country.

Church of St. Peter and St. Paul in Pickering

Our last stop before driving back to York is the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, a typical small parish church with a not-so-typical interior. The original Norman church was built around 1140 and then in 1450 a series of colorful medieval wall murals were painted.

Back in the day, the walls of most churches were filled with colorful paintings depicting Biblical scenes for the vast majority of parishioners who could not read. Come the Reformation and then the Civil War, religious types with different views whitewashed the paintings.

In 1852, the paintings were revealed; however, the vicar at the time apparently did not want the paintings shown, saying that “As a work of art [they are] fairly ridiculous, would excite feelings of curiosity, and distract the congregation.”

I’ll bet he wasn’t a lot of fun at a party.

He ordered the paintings be re-covered with a thick yellow wash that was finally removed in the 1880s and 1890s. The resulting paintings, while extensively damaged, are a fabulous example of how most church interiors originally looked. Unfortunately, only about five churches in the country still have their original murals, with the ones in St. Peter and St. Paul being of particularly fine quality.

A Hidden Gem

For the wandering Artsy Traveler, the paintings are a hidden gem. Peter tells us that almost no one knows about the paintings. One of the many benefits of taking small-group tours is the chance to explore such off-the-beaten-path sites.

Return to York

We drive back to York and I enjoy a first-rate pub meal at The House of the Trembling Madness. I love this place! The upstairs room in the medieval building dates from the 12st century and has all the heavy wooden beams and stuffed critters on the walls to prove it. I order the Yorkshire Platter and am in heaven.

A walls of heads in the House of the Trembling Madness pub in York
A walls of heads in the House of the Trembling Madness pub
Platter of food - ham, cheeses, pickles
An amazing Yorkshire Platter

Yorkshire Dales Tour

I choose a different company for my second tour of Yorkshire—this time of the Yorkshire Dales with Mountain Goat Tours. Like the Go Cotswolds tour, the Mountain Goat tours use 16-seater minibusses which are small enough to navigate the tiny mountain roads we’ll traverse during the course of the day.

16-seater bus owned by Mountain Goat Tours
Mountain Goat Tours 16-seater bus

Matt, our guide and driver, is friendly, knowledgeable, and very enthusiastic about responsible tourism. He tells us that he’s doing his master’s degree in tourism management and has been conducting tours with Mountain Goat for several years. The company provides day tours in scenic areas all over the north including the Lake District, North Wales, and, of course, Yorkshire.

A Short History of Yorkshire

As we head out of York, Matt gives us a short history of the area, explaining how it was first settled by the Romans and then the Anglo Saxons, the Vikings, and the Normans in 1066. He tells us about the Harrying of the North, which I’d never heard of even though I lived in Durham, which is pretty close to York, for a year in the 1970s.

After conquering southern England, William the Conqueror turned his attention to subjugating the North. The people of the North were none too pleased and had the nerve to rebel against William. He retaliated with swift brutality by using scorched earth tactics to destroy the northern shires, particularly in the city of York. Even for the time, William’s viciousness was breathtaking.

Harrying of the North

After the tour, I go online to learn more about the Harrying of the North and read this account by Orderic Vitalis, a contemporary chronicler. In 1069, he wrote:

“Nowhere else had William shown so much cruelty. Shamefully he succumbed to this vice, for he made no effort to restrain his fury and punished the innocent with the guilty. In his anger he commanded that all crops and herds, chattels and food of every kind should be brought together and burned to ashes with consuming fire, so that the whole region north of the Humber might be stripped of all means of sustenance. In consequence so serious a scarcity was felt in England, and so terrible a famine fell upon the humble and defenceless populace, that more than 100,000 Christian folk of both sexes, young and old alike, perished of hunger.”

No wonder that to this day people in the north are often not terribly keen on southerners!

Masham

Our first stop is the town of Masham, a market town where the smell of beer brewing in the local breweries hangs in the air and the attractive town square is lined with stone buildings that look unchanged for a century or two.

Carol Cram in Masham in Yorkshire
Town of Masham
Stone houses in Masham in Yorkshire
Typical housing in Masham

My grandmother was born in Masham in 1906 so visiting it has a special significance. Her family left soon after she was born (they moved a lot) so my grandmother likely never knew much about the place.

I stand in the middle of the market square and try to imagine my great-grandmother holding my grannie in one arm while she held the hand of my great-aunt. The town now is marketed as a good home base for touring the Yorkshire dales, but back in my granny’s time I think it must have been quite bleak.

Jervaulx Abbey

Matt takes us to lovely Jervaulx Abbey, a hauntingly beautiful place privately owned and maintained by the Burdon family. The Abbey, like all the abbeys in the area, was plundered and pillaged during the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the 16th century.

The ruins are charmingly untouched, with wild flowers, shrubs and trees growing freely in a peaceful country setting.

Jervaulx Abbey

Bolton Castle

Another quick stop at Bolton Castle gives me just enough time to make the acquaintance of some wild boars who don’t look very wild. As I approach their enclosure, they barely twitch a whisker. And then I take out a bag of crisps and the sound wakes up several of them. They charge towards the wire fence, ears perked. I have to tell them no. After staring at me hopefully for a few minutes, they amble back to find the patch of dirt they’d vacated and resume their recumbent positions.

Boars at Bolton Castle
Boars at Bolton Castle
View of Bolton Castle in Yorkshire
Bolton Castle

Mary, Queen of Scots was imprisoned in Bolton Castle along with a large entourage of servants (so she couldn’t have been too deprived) between 1568 and 1579. But her life went from bad to worse following her Bolton Castle stint until finally she was beheaded by order of her cousin Elizabeth I in 1587.

Aysgarth Falls

Next stop is a quick one to view Aysgarth Falls on the River Ure. It’s a spectacular triple flight of waterfalls made famous as the place where Kevin Costner as Robin Hood duels with Little John in Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves.

Hawes

We drive up hill and down dale to the village of Hawes in Wensleydale, home of Wensleydale cheese. Matt drops us at the Wensleydale Creamery where I sample several varieties of cheese and purchase a hunk of Wensleydale along with a package of oatcakes. After cheesing out, I walk down to the village and have lunch at a pub.

There’s not a whole lot to see in Hawes, but it is extremely charming, with the added bonus of being the target of the Hawes Yarn Bombers. The fruits of the crochet labors are all over the town and include a large tableau of crocheted characters from Shrek. I text pictures to my daughter Julia who is also a crochet artist.

Yarn bombing in Hawes

Butter Tubs Pass

Matt drives us up very narrow roads to enjoy stunning vistas of the Yorkshire countryside. What a place! We stop briefly at Butter Tubs Pass that crosses high moorland between Wensleydale and Swaledale. The limestone potholes known as the butter tubs are so named because farmers on their way to market would stop on hot days at the top of the climb and lower their tubs of butter into the limestone potholes to keep the butter cool.

Here’s a video taken at the top of the pass showing both the Yorkshire moors and the Yorkshire dales. Pretty darned spectacular!

Leeth

The picture-perfect little town of Leeth is our final stop. Matt advises us to get ice cream made at a local creamery. My cone of honeycomb and ginger ice cream tastes as good as it sounds.

I shoot this video while standing on the village green (and holding my ice cream cone):

Recommended Yorkshire Tours

I wholeheartedly recommend the tours I took with these two companies:

Both companies provided good value for money, excellent guides, scenic drives, and well-planned stops.

Conclusion

My two full days and three nights in York come to a close as I board the train for a quick trip north to Durham where I will spend three nights. Have you visited York and Yorkshire? What suggestions do you have for enjoying this glorious area of England? Please share in the the Comments below.

Here are more posts about traveling in England:

View of the RSC theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon

Discover Beautiful Stratford-upon-Avon: A Must-Visit for the Artsy Traveler

Stratford-upon-Avon is about a two-hour train journey from London and a perfect first stop after visiting the capital.

Stay at least one night (preferably two) and be sure to get tickets for a performance by the Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC).

On a recent trip, I stayed one night in Stratford-upon-Avon, saw a performance of Richard III (more on this in a minute!) and then the next day took a full-day, small-group tour of the Cotswolds with Go Cotswolds before hopping on the train to Birmingham for two nights. Read about my wonderful day out with Go Cotswolds.

In this post, I share my almost-50-year love affair with Stratford-upon-Avon along with tips about what to see and do based on my recent visit.

Getting to Stratford-upon-Avon

I rose early and took a taxi from Wilde Aparthotels to Marylebone Station. I had to change trains at Solihul, which turned out to be a small station surrounded by countryside. The minute I stepped off the train to wait on the platform for the train to Stratford-upon-Avon, I was subsumed by a massive dose of nostalgia.

The smell and sound of the English countryside took me back to 1974. I was 18 again, inhaling the earthy odors of a deciduous forest as I walked through on the campus of the University of Reading on my way to lectures, hearing the same bird song, excited and a little nervous—a stranger in a new land.

England, pleasant England.

View of the river Avon in Stratford-upon-Avon in England
Pleasant English countryside – the River Avon in Stratford-upon-Avon

I felt like all the years in between had disappeared because inside I felt exactly the same now as I was then. All that’d changed was an accumulation of memories and people like my husband who hadn’t existed for me in 1974 and my daughter who hadn’t existed at all.

I decided that my 18-year-old self should feel good about how her life is turning out. Sure, I haven’t won an Oscar for a movie based on one of my novels (a girl can dream!), but I’m totally okay with that. If my 18-year-old self knew what I know now, she would be too.

My First Visit to Stratford-upon-Avon

I boarded the train to Stratford-upon-Avon and more memories flooded in. On each of my last three trips to the UK, I’ve included a night in Stratford-upon-Avon because, well, Shakespeare. Attending a performance at the Royal Shakespeare Company is a must.

I first visited Stratford-upon-Avon in 1970 when I was 14 and traveling with my mom. We went to a performance at the Royal Shakespeare Company theatre. As an English teacher, Mom was determined to expand my horizons, for which I am eternally grateful.

Carol Cram in front of the RSC theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon
In front of the RSC theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon

We saw Two Gentlemen of Verona which is one of Shakespeare’s least memorable plays. The only thing I remembered all these years later was the small swimming pool set into the stage. I’d never see anything like it! Every so often, an actor would slip into the pool and splash about.

Unfortunately, Mom and I visited Stratford-upon-Avon only a few days after landing in the UK and jet lag prevailed. I remember a lot of head bobbing as I tried to stay awake to see the next time someone got wet.

RSC Performances at Stratford-upon-Avon

Since that first performance, I’ve been to Stratford-on-Avon quite a few times. For three years, from 1974 to 1977, I attended the University of Reading where I studied English Literature. Stratford-on-Avon is about a two-hour drive from Reading, so my friends and I frequently drove up to catch a performance. I remember seeing Henry V, King Lear (fabulous storm scene!), and A Winter’s Tale. I’m sure there were others, but they are lost to memory now.

In 1999, Julia (aged 14 at the time) and I went to see Romeo and Juliet starring David Tennant of Doctor Who fame (among many other memorable roles) as Romeo. We didn’t know who he was at the time, but I do remember the production being wonderful. Listening to actors from the RSC doing Shakespeare is like watching cut glass sparkle in the air. Every word, every gesture, every raised eyebrow is precise and perfect.

Hamlet in 2008

Another memorable visit was in 2008 when Julia and I saw Hamlet starring David Tennant, who was by then famous. Julia even got his autograph following the performance.

And so I returned to Stratford-upon-Avon in 2022, this time to see Richard III. I can’t say it’s my favorite play, being rather too full of dead bodies for my taste. But it was the only play being performed on the only date I could be in Stratford-upon-Avon.

Also, I knew it would be well done.

Touring Stratford-upon-Avon with the Bard

But first, I needed to spend an afternoon with the Bard himself. I signed up for a two-hour tour of Stratford-upon-Avon led by Shakespeare (well, a guy dressed like Shakespeare!). At 2 pm, I joined four other people outside Tudor World on Sheep Street and met our guide. Here’s the link to the tour (highly recommended).

He was crude, lewd, and a lot of fun. He also had a wealth of knowledge about his life back in the day, particularly the portion spent in Stratford-upon-Avon. As the son of a tanner who was also the mayor, young Will received an excellent education. His is not a rags to riches story.

Tudor Wolrd Guide dressed as Shakespeare in front of "Dad's House" - his birthplace in Stratford-upon-Avon
Shakespeare in front of “Dad’s House” – his birthplace in Stratford-upon-Avon

“Dad’s House” and Others in Stratford-upon-Avon

Over the next two hours, Shakespeare took us to various sites around town including “Dad’s house” as he called it (his birthplace) and the houses of his two grown daughters, one of whom married a nice guy and the other who didn’t. We also saw his grammar school and the site of the house he built after retiring to Stratford-upon-Avon an exceedingly rich man.

Guide dressed as Shakespeare in front of a Tudor house in Stratford-upon-Avon
Shakespeare in front of one of his daughter’s houses in Stratford-upon-Avon

Along the way, Shakespeare kept up a constant commentary full of tidbits of knowledge about Elizabethan life (a smelly time indeed) and about Shakespeare’s life.

Shakespeare’s Final Resting Place

We ended the tour in the churchyard where Shakespeare (minus his head apparently) is buried. The church was closed, but we wandered around the tombstones, several of which are fake. Shakespeare told us that back in the Victorian era, some enterprising busy bodies decided that the churchyard needed more gravestones for the mist to swirl around on spooky winter nights. So they had a bunch made and stuck them in willy nilly (some almost on top of real graves) all over the churchyard. Apparently, they are easy to spot since everyone commemorates either William or Elizabeth. Bit of a giveaway.

Churchyard at the Stratford-upon-Avon church where Shakespeare is buried
Churchyard at the Stratford-upon-Avon church where Shakespeare is buried

At the end of the tour, I chatted with the guide and told him about my third novel, The Muse of Fire. Since it’s about the theater and includes a lot of Shakespeare, I figured he might enjoy it. He promised to download it on his Kindle. I wonder if he did!

Enjoying Stratford-upon-Avon

There’s really not a whole lot to see in Stratford-upon-Avon. You can tour Shakespeare’s birthplace and go to Anne Hathaway’s Cottage, but both feel a tad on the touristy side. I prefer taking the Tudor World tour which yes, is also touristy, but you’ll learn a lot and get a good feel for the town.

I suggest spending time just wandering around the town, which is not large. Stop in at Romeo & Gelato for an ice cream and, if the market is on, browse the stalls to buy knickknacks and gourmet food. I bought a large chocolate cookie that took me two days to eat.

Take a walk alongside the River Avon to enjoy the views. The place really is postcard-perfect.

Yes, it’s a real shop window in Stratford-upon-Avon
Row boats on the river Avon in Stratford-upon-Avon
Each row boat is named after a different Shakespeare heroine

A good stop for photo ops is the collection of statues near locks in the middle of Stratford-upon-Avon. On an early morning walk, I snapped these photos.

Statue of Shakespeare in Stratford-upon-Avon
Statue of Shakespeare in Stratford-upon-Avon
Statue of the ill-fated Lady Macbeth in Stratford-upon-Avon
Statue of the ill-fated Lady Macbeth in Stratford-upon-Avon

Attending an RSC Performance

At just after 7 pm, I arrived at the RSC theater for the 7:30 performance. The first thing I saw upon entering the narrow lobby was a massive poster of David Tennant decked out as Richard II. I texted a photo to Julia who was just starting her workday back in Vancouver and learned that yes, she’d seen the production streamed.

Poster of David Tennant as Richard II in the lobby at the RSC Theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon
Poster of David Tennant as Richard II in the lobby at the RSC Theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon

I found my seat, took a picture of the stage, and got to know my neighbor, a lady from Cheltenham who used to be a teacher. After retiring at the age of 50, she lived for 25 years in the Dordogne area of France. As fellow teachers (I trained in England in 1979) and lovers of France, we had lots to talk about.

Richard III

The production of Richard III was predictably amazing. The sumptuous costumes, stark set, skillful blocking and, of course, superb acting all added up to a masterful production.

Of particular note was the actor playing Richard III, surely one of the most difficult roles to make relatable. Arthur Hughes managed it, first by being very funny. It’s hard to completely hate someone who makes us laugh. Hughes found comic moments throughout the play. Even at his most vile (and Richard gets pretty vile), Hughes was utterly compelling. Every time he strode on stage, he commanded attention.

Set of Richard III at the RSC theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon
Set of Richard III at the RSC theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon

And the second reason why the performance was so memorable was that Arthur Hughes was the first disabled actor the RSC has cast as Richard III. He describes himself as “limb different” as a result of a rare condition known as radial dysplasia. He has no thumb or radius bone in his right arm. Hughes’s lived experience of disability brought an immediacy to his portrayal of Richard that I’d never seen before. He was not pretending like so many actors; he knows. Here’s an interview with Arthur Hughes on the BBC website.

All in all, the production was a tour de force.

And if you are lucky enough to take in an RSC performance, get the ginger ice cream at the interval. It is to die for!

Visiting Stratford-upon-Avon

Stratford-upon-Avon is a tourist town and as such is well-endowed with restaurants and places to stay. If you can, stay the night. Strolling along the canal after an RSC performance that has just blown your mind is a stellar artsy traveler experience!

Eating in Stratford-upon-Avon

Both meals I enjoyed in Stratford-upon-Avon wee first rate! The first was a lunch consisting of two appetizers–a paté and chicken tenders. Both were superb, particularly when accompanied by a lager and eaten in a lovely old pub overlooking the canal.

Duck pate with confit onions
Duck pate with confit onions
Chili chicken tenders
Chili chicken tenders

Stratford-upon-Avon has several pubs and restaurants; you won’t have trouble finding a good meal. I can also recommend the Dirty Duck where many years ago I ate dinner while visiting Stratford-upon-Avon with my brother. Passing it on an early morning walk brought back many memories of our visit and attending a performance of A Winter’s Tale way in 1975.

Sign for the Dirty Duck pub in Stratford-upon-Avon
The Dirty Duck in Stratford-upon-Avon
Welcome chalkboard for the Dirty Duck pub in Stratford-upon-Avon
Welcome to the Dirty Duck

I enjoyed dinner at the Pen & Parchment Inn where I also stayed. The fish and chips (but with salad instead of chips!) were fresh and flavorful. The Inn itself retained just enough of a hint of stale cigarette smoke in the air to remind me of my misspent youth.

Fish and chips in Stratford-upon-Avon
Fish and chips in Stratford-upon-Avon

Staying in Stratford-upon-Avon

I stayed at the Pen & Parchment Inn which is also a pub (and where I ate dinner). It’s very conveniently located on the canal and within sight of the Royal Shakespeare Company theatre. You can walk to the theatre in about five minutes. My room was small but comfortable and the people were very helpful. I’d recommend the place for a one-night stop. It’s quite reasonably priced (for Stratford-upon-Avon).

Pen & Parchment Inn in Stratford-upon-Avon
Pen & Parchment Inn in Stratford-upon-Avon

For other accommodation options in Stratford-upon-Avon, click the map below:

Booking.com

Tours in and around Stratford-upon-Avon

Conclusion

A visit to Stratford-upon-Avon, particularly if you can attend a performance at the RSC, is artsy traveling at its finest! You get to enjoy Shakespeare performed by the best of the best and you get to stroll around one of England’s most attractive towns with plenty of excellent places to eat and stay. It’s a win-win!

Have you visited Stratford-upon-Avon? Share your suggestions and experiences in the Comments below.

Here are some other posts about England:

Arlington Row in Bilbury in the Cotswolds

Exploring the Cotswolds with Go Cotswolds Tours

Although I lived only a few hours from the Cotswolds back in the 1970s, I rarely visited the area and have zero memory of it. I’ve therefore been hankering to tour the Cotswolds for some time now, lured by photos of peaceful villages nestled against chocolate-box perfect country scenes.

A quick Google search in the depths of last winter brought me to the Go Cotswolds website. Their most popular tour is Cotswolds in a Day. At just 50 GBP for a full day, it’s a bargain.

The Go Cotswolds Tour Begins

At precisely 9 am, a sixteen-seater van pulls up in front of the Pen and Parchment Inn in Stratford-upon-Avon where I stayed the night. Out jumps the very friendly and knowledgeable Colin. He’s lived in the Cotswolds for 30 years and obviously loves sharing it with visitors. He stows my luggage in the back (I’m leaving for Birmingham at the end of the tour) and ushers me on to the bus.

Off we go! The Go Cotswolds tour included six stops and many, many miles of scenic driving. Colin keeps up a lively commentary, and at every stop goes out of his way to engage with everyone. He’s one of the best guides I’ve ever experienced.

Map of the Go Cotswolds Tour

Here are the places we visited on the map. It’s amazing how much there was to see in a relatively small geographic area!

Trip map created using Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

Dover Hill

Our first stop is Dover Hill (#1 on the map above) overlooking a stunning view of the Cotswolds over the Vale of Evesham. On a clear day, the view includes the towers of Birmingham and the foothills of the Welsh mountains. A bit of mist on the horizon obscures some of the view, but it’s still amazing.

Carol Cram atop Dover Hill overlooking the Vale of Evesham in the Cotswolds in England
Atop Dover Hill overlooking the Vale of Evesham

Colin tells us that this hill is the site of the annual (apart from the past two years) Robert Dover’s Olimpick Games. And yes, Olimpick is how they spell it!

Guide Colin talks about the Olimpick Games on Dover Hill
Guide Colin talks about the Robert Dover’s Olimpick Games on Dover Hill

Events include such quirky activities as shin kicking and cheese rolling. Colin provides lively descriptions and directs us to check out the video proof on YouTube. Here’s a link to one of them.

Colin takes a picture of the tour group on top of Dover Hill before we all pile back into the bus to set off to our next stop.

Go Gotwolds group picture on top of Dover Hill
Go Gotwolds group picture on top of Dover Hill

Chipping Camden

As he skillfully navigates winding country roads, Colin describes how the use of the creamy, butter-colored Cotswolds stone defines the region. In fact, no new buildings may be built out of any other material. The local government carefully controls all development in the area, which has become a very expensive and fashionable area in which to live. We pass many gorgeous homes, some thatched, some with the iconic grey slate roofs. Each is impeccably maintained.

Maintaining Cotswolds Homes

Colin tells us that a friend paid 75,000 GBP to have his home re-thatched (a necessity every few decades). He also explains that a major effort is underway to train a new generation of craftspeople to tend to all the wonderful old homes in the area. Young people are encouraged to enter apprentice programs straight out of school to train for a trade that will pay very well and guarantee a lifetime of work.

As an educator myself, I am heartened to hear about such skills-based programs.

A Walk through Chipping Campden

Chipping Campden (#2) at 10 am is quiet and peaceful. Colin advises us to take a walk to see a selection of thatched-roof cottages. I take his advice and set off. No one else follows so I’m alone for most of the walk.

Thatched roof cottages in Chipping Campden in the Cotswolds
Thatched-roof cottages in Chipping Campden

Birds chirping, sun gently shining, a rainbow of flowers spilling forth from every garden, quaint cottages—all boxes ticked.

The walk takes me in a broad circle that leads back to the main street of Chipping Campden. I wander happily up and down the street, admiring the quirky little shops, stopping at a cute little tea room (all the tea rooms are cute; I think it’s a bylaw) for a milky coffee, and checking out the market hall.

Built in the 17th century to provide shelter for market traders, the National Trust now owns the hall which still shelters traders. When I’m there, the goods on offer are primarily sheepskins.

Market hall at Chipping Campden
Market hall at Chipping Campden

Snowshill

The tiny village Snowshill (#4) is famous for its gorgeous views and as the setting for an iconic scene in the movie Bridget Jones’s Diary. We are lucky to arrive when no other tourists are around. Unchanged for centuries, the village is a delight. The only sounds are the wind rustling through the trees and the plump cooing of wood pigeons.

I take some shots of the famous village street and hike up a hill to look out over a stunning view of the Severn Vale.

View of the tiny village of Snowshill in the Cotswolds
Lovely Snowshill in the Cotswolds
Church at Snowshill in the Cotswolds
Church at Snowshill in the Cotswolds

Nearby is Snowshill Manor, a National Trust property that includes picturesque gardens and an eclectic collection of toys, musical instruments, clocks, bicycles, samurai armour and more. We didn’t visit, but it sounds pretty cool!

Stow-on-the-Wold

More driving along even more achingly adorable country roads brings us to Stow-on-the-Wold (#5), one of the largest towns in the Cotswolds and our lunch stop. The town is thriving as a result of tourism. There’s a surfeit of ancient pubs and more cute tea rooms and plenty of shops, all of which, according to Colin, are independently owned. Franchises such as Starbucks do not exist in Cotswolds villages which makes a nice change.

Lunch at the Oldest Pub in England

I choose to have my lunch at the Porch House, billed as “the oldest pub in England.” I decide to go there after hearing from Colin that it was established in 947. The phone prefix for landlines on Bowen Island where I live is 947. I love the coincidence!

Exterior of Porch House inn - oldest in England
Sign for the Porch House inn - oldest in England

The Waldorf salad I order is very tasty, loaded with a great many satisfying lumps of local blue cheese, crisp green apple slices, candied walnuts and lots of fresh veggies.

I can’t help comparing the food I’m eating in 2022 to what passed for food in the 1970s when lived in England as a student. First off, we never ate in restaurants which was just as well because we had no money and restaurants were very few and far between in those days. And second, the British had a well-deserved reputation for tasteless food.

I remember sharing meals with my flatmates when I was a student at Reading University (1974-77) and everyone oohing and aahing over a “lovely” plate of cauliflower cheese—brown rice cooked until it turned white and lost every iota of texture, cauliflower cooked until it turned grey, and mild white cheddar (no taste whatsoever) melted in great blobs over the whole. Lovely indeed.

St. Edward’s Church in Stow-on-the-Wold

After lunch, I make a quick photo stop at St Edward’s Church to check out a mystical doorway that many say looks like a portal to another realm. J.R.R. Tolkien certainly thought so. Ancient yew trees flank the doorway which allegedly inspired his Doors of Durin in the Lord of the Rings trilogy.

Doorway into St. Edward's Church in Stow-on-the-Wold that inspired Tolkein
Doorway into St. Edward’s Church in Stow-on-the-Wold that inspired Tolkien

Driving Backcountry Cotswolds

Back on the bus, Colin takes us down even more back country lanes through the Coln Valley on the way to the town of Bilbury which he says will be crowded (he’s right!). But to counteract the crowds to come, he treats us to a long, meandering drive through some of the most idyllic countryside in England. The tiny villages look like they haven’t changed in centuries, which is more or less true. No wonder there’s been an exodus in recent years from the big cities to the countryside with the result that real estate prices in the area are now sky high.

Bilbury

It’s a bank holiday Saturday, and thousands of people have converged upon tiny, sweet little Bilbury (6). Described by William Morris as “the most beautiful village in England,” Bilbury really does put the charm in charming.

Arlington Row in Bilbury

Bilbury’s main claim to scenic fame is the row of cottages known as Arlington Row, reputed to be the most photographed and beautiful cottages in the country. People live in the cottages, which must be a challenge in the summer. Hundreds of visitors file slowly past, each hoping to snap a picture of the row without other visitors in the way.

Arlington Row, a charming group of cottages in Bilbury village in the Cotswolds
Arlington Row, a charming group of cottages in Bilbury village in the Cotswolds

It’s an impossible task, although like everyone else, I try.

Arlington Row, a charming group of cottages in Bilbury village in the Cotswolds
Arlington Row of cottages in Bilbury

The cottages date from 1380 when they were built as a monastic wool store. In the 17th century, the building was converted into a row of weavers’ cottages. A fifteen-minute stroll takes me from the car park alongside the meandering River Coln to the cottages and then back on a lovely shady path next to a boggy water meadow known as Rack Isle. Back in the car park, several ice cream shops beckon. I treat myself to a salted caramel ice cream cone.

Vista of stream and Arlington Row cottages in Bilbury in the Cotswolds
Walking toward Arlington Row in Bilbury

Bourton-on-the-Water

Bilbury is positively empty compared to Bourton-on-the-Water (#7), our next and final stop on the Go Cotswolds tour. It’s yet another gorgeous little village with the added attraction of having a river running through the center of the village. People paddle in the shallow water, stroll across the stone bridges, snap photos, eat ice cream, and generally enjoy a day out in the country.

But is is crowded! Fortunately, Colin offers to take anyone interested on a secret walk that promises to get us well away from the crowds in seconds. About eight of us follow him for what proves to be the highlight of the Go Cotswolds tour (which is saying something).

A Secret Walk in Bourton-on-the-Water

We head down a stone-walled side passage to emerge onto an expansive—and virtually empty—water meadow. Birds chips, the wind whispers, the views are entrancing, the crowds a bad memory. Yep—it’s the full on Cotswolds experience and we have it all to ourselves.

Carol Cram in front of a beautiful home in Bourton-on-the-Water in the Cotswolds
Beautiful home in Bourton-on-the-Water

Colin leads alongside a small stream to the house he promises us we’ll all want to buy. He’s right—it’s an old stone beauty set on a bend in the river and even including a gazebo in its back garden. The next time I have a few million pounds to spare, I know where to spend it.

Crowds at Bourton-on-the-Water in the Cotswolds
Crowds at Bourton-on-the-Water in the Cotswolds

End of the Tour

An hour later, Colin drops me at Stratford-upon-Avon (#1) train station for my one-hour journey to Birmingham. My day out in the Cotswolds has been glorious. If you’re short on time and don’t want to drive, consider taking the Cotswolds-in-a-Day tour with Go Cotswolds. It’s a winner.

Here’s a similar tour also conducted by Go Cotswolds:

Have you visited the Cotswolds? Share your experience in the Comments section below.

Here are a few more posts about England:

London skyline including big ben and parliament buildings

Discover the Best of London in Two-and-a-Bit Busy Days

Doing London in two days (even with a bit added on after landing on the first day) is kind of insane. London has so much to offer that it deserves a full week.

However, on a recent trip to London, I could spare only two days and so I was determined to pack as much artsy sightseeing into my time as possible.

Fortunately, I’ve visited London many times over the years and have seen pretty much all the major sites multiple times. As a result, I decided to visit a few old favorites and explore some new-to-me places.

Even if you’ve never visited London, my two-and-a-bit itinerary will give you a good overview of the highlights.

After getting settled at the Wilde Aparthotel (#1: see my review of this highly-recommended hotel in Covent Garden), I set off for my first artsy stop of my London stay—the elegant Courtauld Gallery at Somerset House.

Map of London Sightseeing

Here are the places I visited in London during my whirlwind two-and-a-bit-days trip in August 2022.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Arrival in London: The Bit of My Two-and-a-Bit Days

I first visited the Courtauld Gallery (#2) in the 1970s when I came face to face with what would become my favorite Manet painting—A Bar at the Folies-Bergère. I was only 14 years old, and seeing that painting was pretty much responsible for setting me on a course of art loving that continues to this day.

Why Visit the Courtauld 

I recommend visiting the Courtauld for two reasons. First, the gallery is small enough to be easily enjoyed in an hour or two without taxing your energy and your legs. And second, it’s bursting at the seams with unbelievably awesome works.

I’ve rarely been to an art museum that includes such a thoughtful and exquisitely curated collection of works, from the middle ages to the Impressionists.

In this post, I cover a few highlights. For a more in-depth post about the Courtauld with plenty of examples of works you’ll see there, check out my post Courtauld Gallery in London: A Treasure Trove for the Artsy Traveler.

Highlights of the Courtauld Gallery

The main draw at the Courtauld Gallery is the beautiful collection of Impressionists that includes all the biggies (Monet, Manet, Renoir, Cezanne, van Gogh, etc.). Several very famous pieces are included, such as Manet’s A Bar at the Folies-Bergère and van Gogh’s Peach Trees in Blossom

A Bar at the Folies-Bergère
A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Edouard Manet, one of the most famous paintings at the Courtauld gallery in London
A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Edouard Manet

This painting is one of my favorites, and as I write in my full post on the Courtauld Gallery, seeing it in the early 1970s was one of the experiences that set me up as a life-long art lover.

There’s just something about the way in which the central character stares out at us, the audience, that is so compelling. She’s so bored and yet so vulnerable. You can’t help sympathizing with her and imagining what she’s thinking. It’s probably something along the lines of I wish he’d hurry up and give me his order so I can stop pretending to care.

Peach Trees in Blossom by Vincent van Gogh
Peach Trees in Blossom by Vincent Van Gogh exhibited at the Courthauld Gallery in London
Peach Trees in Blossom by Vincent van Gogh

My favorite van Gogh paintings are of the landscape around Arles. In fact, the very first van Gogh painting I saw was very similar to this piece in the Courtauld. I was 11 years old, visiting Montreal’s Expo 67 and seeing great art for the first time. The rest, as they say, is history.

Peach Trees in Blossom captures the scene of an open plain outside Arles and was painted in 1889. Vincent wrote to his brother Theo that the blossoms and distant snow-capped mountain reminded him of the cherry trees and Mount Fuji in Japanese prints, of which he was a great collector.

After thoroughly exploring the top floor, I explored the other two floors, both containing many marvelous works. The collection of medieval paintings is one of the best I’ve seen, even in big museums like the Louvre and Vatican.

I ended my joyful visit to the Courtauld with a chat with the friendly attendant in the gift shop. I bought a catalog of the collection and told him how much I loved the Courtauld and how I’d first visited way back in 1970. He was delighted.

The Courtauld Gallery is open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Book your ticket in advance on the website to avoid line-ups and to make sure you get in! Check the website also for special exhibitions. The Munch exhibition I saw was worth the extra price.

First Night Dinner

Dinner was a plate of smoked salmon and fettuccine that was so delicious I wanted to weep all over again. I ate half of it and took the rest back to my room to keep in the fridge until the next day when it tasted just as good.

A plate of fettucine with smoked salmon
Scrumptious dinner in London

To bed at 8:30 pm and Day 1 in the UK came to a peaceful close.

First Full Day in London

I started my day at 7 am with a black coffee at one of the ubiquitous Café Nero’s, this one about ten steps from the front door of the Wilde Aparthotel. To my relief, the coffee was superb. Long gone are the days when the only coffee for sale in the UK was beyond inexecrable. Because I spent my early adult years in England in the 1970s, I didn’t develop a taste for coffee until I was 30. Good strong English tea was my beverage of choice for at least a decade.

After an hour of coffee and writing, I returned to my room in preparation for my first full day in London. Because time was so limited, I made reservations for almost everything I planned to do.

Taking the Uber Boat to the Globe Theatre

First stop was a tour of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre (#3). I walked down to the Thames (about five minutes away) and hopped on the boat that took me downriver to Bankside. The skyline of London was unrecognizable even since my previous trip in 2016. Dozens of new, ultra modern buildings gleamed golden in the early morning sun.

Skyline of London in the early morning sun as seen from the Thames River
Skyline of London in the early morning viewed from the Thames River

Tour of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre

I was early for my tour—the first of the day at 10 am. I had yet another black coffee and eavesdropped on a conversation between three young women who appeared to be about eighteen. One of them loudly informed the others that none of her many boyfriends had ever gotten over her. Currently, she was in the midst of fending off the advances of a boy who kissed her in fourth form (Grade 9) and was spoiled forever for any other girl. Was she arrogant or just supremely self-confident? I couldn’t decide, but I couldn’t help hoping life would treat her well.

At 10 am, I joined about thirty people for the Globe tour. I last visited the Globe in 2007 on a trip with my mother and before that in 2001 with my daughter Julia to see a performance of The Tempest starring Vanessa Redgrave as Prospero. Although the hard seats (even with a cushion) and lack of back support somewhat detracted from the experience, I’m glad I had it!

Carol cram in front of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre in London
Outside the Globe Theatre in London

Meeting Our Tour Guide

Our guide joined us—a man in his fifties named Mick. He declared that he is a genuine Cockney and certainly he sounded the part. He was very energetic and obviously loved what he does. The hour-long tour was informative and fun, and in my opinion, well worth the 17 GDP cost.

Outside the Theatre

The tour started outside the theater with Mick telling us why the theaters were built on the south bank of the Thames and not in the city. Apparently, the killjoys in the city didn’t want raucous entertainments sullying the area, and so entrepreneurs like Richard Burbage built the first theatre very close the site of the current Globe. He also talked about Sam Wanamaker, the American billionaire who made construction of the new Globe his life’s work.

Inside the Globe Theatre

We entered the theatre twice—once on the lower level and a second time on the upper level. While on the lower level, Mick provided us with graphic descriptions of the groundlings in Shakespeare’s time. Over 3000 people crammed into a space that now fits 1800 in these days of fire regulations and basic hygiene.

The pit alone, where the groundlings hung out, once fit 1000 people packed in so closely that people could not raise their arms. They were unbathed, boisterous, and very smelly. It cost a penny to get into the pit so if nature called, a groundling urinated in place rather than leave the theatre and then pay another penny to get back in. Shakespeare called the groundlings the penny stinkers.

View of the interior and the stage of the Globe Theatre in London
Inside the Globe Theatre; the stage is set up for a production of I, Joan

On the upper level, Mick talked about how the gentry came to the play to see and be seen. When the Globe Theater opened in 1977, it hosted two queens. “Elizabeth I” rode into the pit on a horse and bowed to Elizabeth II seated in the royal box.

I thoroughly enjoyed the tour and recommend it as a must-do for the theatre-loving artsy traveler.

Shakespeare’s Globe Practical Information

The Globe Theatre is open for tours at specific times and pre-booking is essential. Check the website for details and to purchase tickets, preferably well in advance. From the link above, you can choose from a variety of tours. I took the Globe Theatre Guided Tour.

Tate Modern

After my Globe visit, I went next door to the Tate Modern (#4) to check out the surrealist exhibition and to take a quick tour through the permanent collection, which I’ve visited before.

My husband, Gregg Simpson is an artist (check out his work here) and one of hist paintings from the early 1970s is included in the exhibition catalog, but alas, not in the exhibition itself. The painting is currently in a museum in Spain and as a result of COVID restrictions, wasn’t sent to London or on to New York, where the exhibition goes next to be shown at the Met.

I have to say that the Surrealism Beyond Borders exhibition was not particularly compelling. The commentary was a bit on the didactic side and the quality uneven. I’m not convinced the exhibition was worth the extra cost for anyone other than a die-hard surrealism fan. I wasn’t even compelled to take pictures!

Tate Modern Permanent Collection

I explored the permanent collection at the Tate and, as I have other times I’ve been here, found it uneven. Some rooms were quick walk-throughs; others were worth lingering in, but none for all that long. There were works by most of the most famous 20th-century artists, including Picasso, Mondrian, Leger, and Matisse, but few really iconic ones.

Here are some of the highlights that attracted me.

Gothic Landscape by Lee Krasner, a painting displayed at the Tate Modern in London
Gothic Landscape by Lee Krasner

Lee Krasner was both the partner of Jackson Pollock and an excellent painter in her own right. Works by women are still few and far between in most of the major collections, so I was pleased to see that the Tate included a work by Krasner. Although this piece is an abstract painting, its thick vertical lines are apparently intended to invoke trees with thick knotted roots, hence the title Gothic Landscape.

Sleeping Venue by Paul Delvaux, a painting displayed at the Tate Modern
Sleeping Venus by Paul Delvaux

This very famous surrealist work was painted by Delvaux in Brussels during WWII while the city was being bombed. Delvaux said of the painting that “the psychology of that moment was very exceptional, full of drama and anguish. I wanted to express this anguish in the picture, contrasted with the calm of the Venus.” I’d say he succeeded!

I was done in less than an hour. I still prefer the permanent collection of mid-20th-century masterpieces at the Pompidou in Paris to the collection at the Tate Modern.

But if you’ve never visited, definitely go and have a look. The building–a converted power station–is worth seeing, and the price of admission (free!) is worth the walk. But if you’re not a huge modern art fan, I’d recommend spending your time at the Tate Britain instead, where you’ll find several works by the pre-Raphaelites, among others.

The tower of the Tate Modern soaring into a very blue sky
Tower at the Tate Modern soaring into the blue London sky

Tate Modern Practical Information

The Tate Modern is open from 10:00 to 18:00 every day and admission is free, except for special exhibitions. Check the website for details.

Lunch and the Museum of the Home

The sun shone brilliantly as I walked across the Thames, pausing to take shots of iconic Saint Paul’s Cathedral and the incredibly modern skyline. London sure has changed since I first visited in 1970!

walking across the pedestrian bridge over the Thames in London with Saint Paul's Cathedral in the distance
Saint Paul’s Cathedral viewed from the south bank of the Thames
Old and new buildings in London's financial district
The old and the new in London’s financial district

I stopped at a Wagamama (Asian-inspired chain restaurant) for a quick lunch that turned into a very long lunch because my order was forgotten. When finally I got it, the server had the good grace to not charge me. Needless to say, I won’t be back!

Museum of the Home

I took the bus to the Museum of the Home (#5) in Shoreditch which turned out to be a disappointment probably because I missed most of it by going in what was actually the back door. I saw only a few rooms—from the Victorian era, WW1, the 1930s, the 1950s, and the 1990s. It wasn’t worth the long journey. But whatever. Live and learn.

A room interior in 18th century style at the Museum of the Home in Shoreditch in London
One of the home interiors at the Museum of the Home in Shoreditch

Traveling by Uber in London

To get back to my hotel, I ordered my first London Uber. Unfortunately, I was in the wrong place so the driver eventually drove past and cancelled on me. Uber sent a new driver who took the time to find me. Omar from Somali turned out to be a big talker—nonstop for the half hour trip. He told me that he’s a traditional Muslim, determined that his four children aged 8 to 16 stay on the straight and narrow. He also told me about his business interests in Somalia, his huge extended family, and the recent death of his father.

Back at the Wilde, I had a wee nap and was recharged! Out again at 4 pm, I walked five minutes to the National Gallery.

National Gallery

I love the National Gallery (#6)! I spent an hour wandering from room to room, eyes tearing up as every turn brought new masterpieces before me. All of the biggies from the Middle Ages to the Impressionists are here. I felt very emotional as I kept coming face to face with so much beloved art while also discovering new pieces to admire.

Interior of the National Gallery in London
Interior of the National Gallery in London

Here are some highlights.

The Fighting Temeraire by William Turner

The Fighting Temeraire tugged to her Last Berth to be broken up, 1838, by William Turner at the National Gallery in London
The Fighting Temeraire by William Turner

When I was growing up, my dad had a print of this famous piece by Turner hanging in his study. It was one of the first works of art I ever saw as a child. I think he purchased it in London in the early 1960s. I always loved looking at the sky, and so wasn’t surprised when as an adult I discovered that Turner was famous for his depiction of light.

The Bathers by Georges Seurat

The Bathers by Georges Seurat
The Bathers by Georges Seurat

I’d forgotten this iconic piece by Seurat was in the National Gallery. It dominates a room full of other Impressionist masterpieces. There’s something so timeless about this piece–people relaxing on a fine summer’s day, each lost in their thoughts. But what is the dog looking at?

The National Gallery includes famous pieces by just about every major European artist, including van Gogh, Monet, Michelangelo, and Vermeer, to name a few. It’s a world-class art museum but not as overwhelming as the Louvre, for example. You can easily see the highlights in about an hour.

The National Gallery is open from 10:00 to 18:00 every day and until 21:00 on Friday. Admission is free, except for special exhibitions. Check the website for details.

Dinner and a Show

After enjoying the National Gallery, I lingered awhile to enjoy the view over Trafalgar Square (#7). I was reminded of when I ended up in Trafalgar Square at midnight on New Year’s Eve in 1974 when I was eighteen and attending Reading University.

As the year turned to 1975, my friends and I were engulfed by people yelling and celebrating. A very large man grabbed hold of me and kissed me. Needless to say, we quickly escaped. We ran through deserted streets (the tube had already stopped) only to discover that we’d missed the last train back to Surrey where my friend lived.

We ended up spending a cold few hours huddled on a park bench in Green Park. At about 3 am, a bobby came by and ushered us out so the rest of the night was spent in Victoria Station waiting for the first train. I had severe heartburn after sampling my very first Indian curry earlier in the evening, and thought I was dying!

At Trafalgar Square in London

This is Now

My experience of Trafalgar Square on a lovely sunny day about fifty years later after swooning over the masterpieces in the National Gallery was a big improvement over New Year’s Eve 1974.

After enjoying Trafalgar Square and my memories, I headed for The Restaurant (that’s its name, really!) for dinner prior to seeing My Fair Lady. I walked past the place three times before finally finding it. I was the only customer for the theater menu—a fabulous chicken terrine for the starter and trout for the main course. The food was absolutely superb and reasonably priced. I couldn’t understand why no one was there.

My Fair Lady

My first show in London! I took my seat in the dress circle and felt very glad I opted to buy a premium seat. My view was perfect.

Large poster for My Fair Lady playing at The Coliseum in London
My Fair Lady at The Coliseum in London

The show was fabulous (well, of course!). The actor playing Eliza had an amazing voice. She owned the stage every time she opened her mouth. Another stand-out was the actor playing her father Alfred P. Doolittle. The actor playing Higgins managed to escape the shadow of Rex Harrison and was almost sympathetic (no easy matter!). Another stand-out was the actor playing Freddy. He totally killed On the Street Where You Live.

My Fair Lady stands the test of time.

Second Full Day in London

A peal of thunder in the middle of the night heralded a dreary, rainy morning on my second full day in London. I didn’t mind in the least! Armed with a sturdy umbrella provided by the Wilde Aparthotel (I really like this place), I ventured forth (after my coffee at Café Nero) for my first stop of the day—a tour of Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey

I’ve visited Westminster Abbey (#8) several times over the years, and it never fails to impress. I was practically the first person through the door with my pre-purchased ticket for 10 am entry. For almost all of my visit, I had the abbey virtually to myself.

Interior of Westminster Abbey in London facing the large window at the rear
Westminster Abbey
Interior of Westminster Abbey in London facing the altar
Westminster Abbey facing the altar

Each guest was provided with an audio guide and headphones. Since my last visit in 2016, the audio guide has improved significantly. It was like a mini SmartPhone with a large screen that showed videos to accompany the audio. I listened to and watched every video!

As always, my favorite part of Westminster Abbey was Poet’s Corner. So many great writers were either buried or commemorated there—Chaucer, Milton, Shakespeare, Jane Austen, Dickens… the list goes on. Few other visitors were around and spent many happy minutes strolling from plaque to plaque, memorial to memorial.

Memorial to Jane Austen in Poets Corner at Westminster Abbey in London
Jane Austen’s memorial in Poet’s Corner in London’s Westminster Abbey

As I wandered around Westminster Abbey, I didn’t, of course, suspect that in just a few more weeks it would take the world stage as the setting for the Queen’s funeral.

Wallace Collection

After touring Westminster Abbey, I checked out the Wallace Collection (#9), which was new to me. Housed in a magnificent mansion, the Wallace collection is billed as “an internationally outstanding collection which contains unsurpassed masterpieces of paintings, sculpture, furniture, arms and armour and porcelain.”

Large mansion housing the Wallace collection in London
Mansion housing the Wallace Collection in London

Yep, that’s about right. I’d rarely seen so much stuff crowded into so many rooms in my life. Wandering through the many, many rooms was kind of like being obliged to eat too much fudge. It’s tasty, sure, but eating too much just kind of makes you feel like you’d rather have toast.

That said, the Wallace Collection is worth a visit, particularly if you’re interested in armor and porcelain. There are numerous magnificent examples.

 A statue of a horse with a man in armor as part of the display of armor at the Wallace Collection in London
A display of armor at the Wallace Collection

For me, the special exhibition was more interesting than the permanent collection. Called Inspiring Walt Disney: The Animation of French Decorative Arts, the exhibition illustrated how films such as Cinderella and Beauty and the Beast were heavily inspired by French decorative arts of the 1800s. An excellent audio guide and several animated displays underscored the artistry that went into creating the two iconic films.

One Evening; Two Musicals

With only two full days in London, I opted to cram in three musicals. Fortunately, one of the musicals (Six) started at 5 pm and ran for just 90 minutes so I had time to fit in Jersey Boys, mostly because the Trafalgar Theater is only a five-minute walk from the Vaudeville Theater on the Strand where Six was playing and second, because I’d never seen it (although I did see the movie).

Six: The Musical

Six tells the story of Henry VIII’s six wives – Catherine of Aragon (divorced), Anne Boleyn (beheaded), Jane Seymour (died), Anne of Cleves (divorced), Katherine Howard (beheaded) and Katharine Parr (survived). The “divorced, beheaded, died, divorced, beheaded, survived” riff ran through this exceedingly energetic and highly recommended production.

Each wife—excuse me, each queen—took a turn singing a song to convince us that her life was the saddest of the six. The songs were funny, heartbreaking, poignant, and extraordinarily creative. Outlandish costumes, wacky dancing, and excellent vocals made for a deliciously entertaining 90 minutes.

The six queens in the production of Six take their bows
The six queens in Six take their bows

I emerged from the theater refreshed and ready for more.

Jersey Boys

A quick walk down the Strand past Charing Cross brought me to the Trafalgar Theater, which is, not surprisingly, within spitting distance of Trafalgar Square. Unlike for both Six and My Fair Lady, the theater was not full, most likely because the musical has been playing for several years.

Whereas most of the audience for Six were young women under 35, most of the audience for Jersey Boys appeared to be over sixty, hardly surprising considering the subject.

My seat was cheek-by-jowl with a large English man—a Cockney from London he informed me. Although friendly and chatty, he had a habit of overflowing into my space. Fortunately, several seats to my immediate left were empty so at the interval, I shifted over. I don’t think he was offended, although we never spoke again after I shifted.

Jersey Boys tells the story of Frankie Valli, the falsetto crooner famous for such hits as Sherry, Can’t Take My Eyes Off of You, Walk Like a Man, Big Girls Don’t Cry, and Rag Doll. It was a walk down memory lane for we over-60s and very enjoyable. The actor who played Frankie Valli was fabulous. How he managed to belt those falsetto songs out night after night amazed me. My vocal cords hurt just listening to him.

After two shows, I was famished (no time for dinner!) and so I stopped by one of the many Italian eateries for a plate of shrimp sauteed with peppers (so good and fresh). It was then home to bed and the end of my London adventure.

Tours & Tickets in London

Here are some more tour options in London with Tiqets.com

Walking Tours

Fancy a walking tour? London has many options for walking tours. I can highly recommend the walks hosted by GuruWalks. Here are some options:

Conclusion

Have you traveled to London? What are your suggestions for artsy travelers? Which art museums are your favorites? Share your suggestions in the Comments section below.

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