Stratford-upon-Avon is about a two-hour train journey from London and a perfect first stop after visiting the capital.
Stay at least one night (preferably two) and be sure to get tickets for a performance by the Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC).
On a recent trip, I stayed one night in Stratford-upon-Avon, saw a performance of Richard III (more on this in a minute!) and then the next day took a full-day, small-group tour of the Cotswolds with Go Cotswolds before hopping on the train to Birmingham for two nights. Read about my wonderful day out with Go Cotswolds.
In this post, I share my almost-50-year love affair with Stratford-upon-Avon along with tips about what to see and do based on my recent visit.
Getting to Stratford-upon-Avon
I rose early and took a taxi from Wilde Aparthotels to Marylebone Station. I had to change trains at Solihul, which turned out to be a small station surrounded by countryside. The minute I stepped off the train to wait on the platform for the train to Stratford-upon-Avon, I was subsumed by a massive dose of nostalgia.
The smell and sound of the English countryside took me back to 1974. I was 18 again, inhaling the earthy odors of a deciduous forest as I walked through on the campus of the University of Reading on my way to lectures, hearing the same bird song, excited and a little nervous—a stranger in a new land.
England, pleasant England.
Pleasant English countryside – the River Avon in Stratford-upon-Avon
I felt like all the years in between had disappeared because inside I felt exactly the same now as I was then. All that’d changed was an accumulation of memories and people like my husband who hadn’t existed for me in 1974 and my daughter who hadn’t existed at all.
I decided that my 18-year-old self should feel good about how her life is turning out. Sure, I haven’t won an Oscar for a movie based on one of my novels (a girl can dream!), but I’m totally okay with that. If my 18-year-old self knew what I know now, she would be too.
My First Visit to Stratford-upon-Avon
I boarded the train to Stratford-upon-Avon and more memories flooded in. On each of my last three trips to the UK, I’ve included a night in Stratford-upon-Avon because, well, Shakespeare. Attending a performance at the Royal Shakespeare Company is a must.
I first visited Stratford-upon-Avon in 1970 when I was 14 and traveling with my mom. We went to a performance at the Royal Shakespeare Company theatre. As an English teacher, Mom was determined to expand my horizons, for which I am eternally grateful.
In front of the RSC theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon
We saw Two Gentlemen of Verona which is one of Shakespeare’s least memorable plays. The only thing I remembered all these years later was the small swimming pool set into the stage. I’d never see anything like it! Every so often, an actor would slip into the pool and splash about.
Unfortunately, Mom and I visited Stratford-upon-Avon only a few days after landing in the UK and jet lag prevailed. I remember a lot of head bobbing as I tried to stay awake to see the next time someone got wet.
RSC Performances at Stratford-upon-Avon
Since that first performance, I’ve been to Stratford-on-Avon quite a few times. For three years, from 1974 to 1977, I attended the University of Reading where I studied English Literature. Stratford-on-Avon is about a two-hour drive from Reading, so my friends and I frequently drove up to catch a performance. I remember seeing Henry V, King Lear (fabulous storm scene!), and A Winter’s Tale. I’m sure there were others, but they are lost to memory now.
In 1999, Julia (aged 14 at the time) and I went to see Romeo and Juliet starring David Tennant of Doctor Who fame (among many other memorable roles) as Romeo. We didn’t know who he was at the time, but I do remember the production being wonderful. Listening to actors from the RSC doing Shakespeare is like watching cut glass sparkle in the air. Every word, every gesture, every raised eyebrow is precise and perfect.
Hamlet in 2008
Another memorable visit was in 2008 when Julia and I saw Hamlet starring David Tennant, who was by then famous. Julia even got his autograph following the performance.
And so I returned to Stratford-upon-Avon in 2022, this time to see Richard III. I can’t say it’s my favorite play, being rather too full of dead bodies for my taste. But it was the only play being performed on the only date I could be in Stratford-upon-Avon.
Also, I knew it would be well done.
Touring Stratford-upon-Avon with the Bard
But first, I needed to spend an afternoon with the Bard himself. I signed up for a two-hour tour of Stratford-upon-Avon led by Shakespeare (well, a guy dressed like Shakespeare!). At 2 pm, I joined four other people outside Tudor World on Sheep Street and met our guide. Here’s the link to the tour (highly recommended).
He was crude, lewd, and a lot of fun. He also had a wealth of knowledge about his life back in the day, particularly the portion spent in Stratford-upon-Avon. As the son of a tanner who was also the mayor, young Will received an excellent education. His is not a rags to riches story.
Shakespeare in front of “Dad’s House” – his birthplace in Stratford-upon-Avon
“Dad’s House” and Others in Stratford-upon-Avon
Over the next two hours, Shakespeare took us to various sites around town including “Dad’s house” as he called it (his birthplace) and the houses of his two grown daughters, one of whom married a nice guy and the other who didn’t. We also saw his grammar school and the site of the house he built after retiring to Stratford-upon-Avon an exceedingly rich man.
Shakespeare in front of one of his daughter’s houses in Stratford-upon-Avon
Along the way, Shakespeare kept up a constant commentary full of tidbits of knowledge about Elizabethan life (a smelly time indeed) and about Shakespeare’s life.
Shakespeare’s Final Resting Place
We ended the tour in the churchyard where Shakespeare (minus his head apparently) is buried. The church was closed, but we wandered around the tombstones, several of which are fake. Shakespeare told us that back in the Victorian era, some enterprising busy bodies decided that the churchyard needed more gravestones for the mist to swirl around on spooky winter nights. So they had a bunch made and stuck them in willy nilly (some almost on top of real graves) all over the churchyard. Apparently, they are easy to spot since everyone commemorates either William or Elizabeth. Bit of a giveaway.
Churchyard at the Stratford-upon-Avon church where Shakespeare is buried
At the end of the tour, I chatted with the guide and told him about my third novel, The Muse of Fire. Since it’s about the theater and includes a lot of Shakespeare, I figured he might enjoy it. He promised to download it on his Kindle. I wonder if he did!
Enjoying Stratford-upon-Avon
There’s really not a whole lot to see in Stratford-upon-Avon. You can tour Shakespeare’s birthplace and go to Anne Hathaway’s Cottage, but both feel a tad on the touristy side. I prefer taking the Tudor World tour which yes, is also touristy, but you’ll learn a lot and get a good feel for the town.
I suggest spending time just wandering around the town, which is not large. Stop in at Romeo & Gelato for an ice cream and, if the market is on, browse the stalls to buy knickknacks and gourmet food. I bought a large chocolate cookie that took me two days to eat.
Take a walk alongside the River Avon to enjoy the views. The place really is postcard-perfect.
Yes, it’s a real shop window in Stratford-upon-Avon
Each row boat is named after a different Shakespeare heroine
A good stop for photo ops is the collection of statues near locks in the middle of Stratford-upon-Avon. On an early morning walk, I snapped these photos.
Statue of Shakespeare in Stratford-upon-Avon
Statue of the ill-fated Lady Macbeth in Stratford-upon-Avon
Attending an RSC Performance
At just after 7 pm, I arrived at the RSC theater for the 7:30 performance. The first thing I saw upon entering the narrow lobby was a massive poster of David Tennant decked out as Richard II. I texted a photo to Julia who was just starting her workday back in Vancouver and learned that yes, she’d seen the production streamed.
Poster of David Tennant as Richard II in the lobby at the RSC Theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon
I found my seat, took a picture of the stage, and got to know my neighbor, a lady from Cheltenham who used to be a teacher. After retiring at the age of 50, she lived for 25 years in the Dordogne area of France. As fellow teachers (I trained in England in 1979) and lovers of France, we had lots to talk about.
Richard III
The production of Richard III was predictably amazing. The sumptuous costumes, stark set, skillful blocking and, of course, superb acting all added up to a masterful production.
Of particular note was the actor playing Richard III, surely one of the most difficult roles to make relatable. Arthur Hughes managed it, first by being very funny. It’s hard to completely hate someone who makes us laugh. Hughes found comic moments throughout the play. Even at his most vile (and Richard gets pretty vile), Hughes was utterly compelling. Every time he strode on stage, he commanded attention.
Set of Richard III at the RSC theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon
And the second reason why the performance was so memorable was that Arthur Hughes was the first disabled actor the RSC has cast as Richard III. He describes himself as “limb different” as a result of a rare condition known as radial dysplasia. He has no thumb or radius bone in his right arm. Hughes’s lived experience of disability brought an immediacy to his portrayal of Richard that I’d never seen before. He was not pretending like so many actors; he knows. Here’s an interview with Arthur Hughes on the BBC website.
All in all, the production was a tour de force.
And if you are lucky enough to take in an RSC performance, get the ginger ice cream at the interval. It is to die for!
Visiting Stratford-upon-Avon
Stratford-upon-Avon is a tourist town and as such is well-endowed with restaurants and places to stay. If you can, stay the night. Strolling along the canal after an RSC performance that has just blown your mind is a stellar artsy traveler experience!
Eating in Stratford-upon-Avon
Both meals I enjoyed in Stratford-upon-Avon wee first rate! The first was a lunch consisting of two appetizers–a paté and chicken tenders. Both were superb, particularly when accompanied by a lager and eaten in a lovely old pub overlooking the canal.
Duck pate with confit onions
Chili chicken tenders
Stratford-upon-Avon has several pubs and restaurants; you won’t have trouble finding a good meal. I can also recommend the Dirty Duck where many years ago I ate dinner while visiting Stratford-upon-Avon with my brother. Passing it on an early morning walk brought back many memories of our visit and attending a performance of A Winter’s Tale way in 1975.
The Dirty Duck in Stratford-upon-Avon
Welcome to the Dirty Duck
I enjoyed dinner at the Pen & Parchment Inn where I also stayed. The fish and chips (but with salad instead of chips!) were fresh and flavorful. The Inn itself retained just enough of a hint of stale cigarette smoke in the air to remind me of my misspent youth.
Fish and chips in Stratford-upon-Avon
Staying in Stratford-upon-Avon
I stayed at the Pen & Parchment Inn which is also a pub (and where I ate dinner). It’s very conveniently located on the canal and within sight of the Royal Shakespeare Company theatre. You can walk to the theatre in about five minutes. My room was small but comfortable and the people were very helpful. I’d recommend the place for a one-night stop. It’s quite reasonably priced (for Stratford-upon-Avon).
Pen & Parchment Inn in Stratford-upon-Avon
For other accommodation options in Stratford-upon-Avon, click the map below:
A visit to Stratford-upon-Avon, particularly if you can attend a performance at the RSC, is artsy traveling at its finest! You get to enjoy Shakespeare performed by the best of the best and you get to stroll around one of England’s most attractive towns with plenty of excellent places to eat and stay. It’s a win-win!
Have you visited Stratford-upon-Avon? Share your suggestions and experiences in the Comments below.
Although I lived only a few hours from the Cotswolds back in the 1970s, I rarely visited the area and have zero memory of it. I’ve therefore been hankering to tour the Cotswolds for some time now, lured by photos of peaceful villages nestled against chocolate-box perfect country scenes.
A quick Google search in the depths of last winter brought me to the Go Cotswolds website. Their most popular tour is Cotswolds in a Day. At just 50 GBP for a full day, it’s a bargain.
The Go Cotswolds Tour Begins
At precisely 9 am, a sixteen-seater van pulls up in front of the Pen and Parchment Inn in Stratford-upon-Avon where I stayed the night. Out jumps the very friendly and knowledgeable Colin. He’s lived in the Cotswolds for 30 years and obviously loves sharing it with visitors. He stows my luggage in the back (I’m leaving for Birmingham at the end of the tour) and ushers me on to the bus.
Off we go! The Go Cotswolds tour included six stops and many, many miles of scenic driving. Colin keeps up a lively commentary, and at every stop goes out of his way to engage with everyone. He’s one of the best guides I’ve ever experienced.
Map of the Go Cotswolds Tour
Here are the places we visited on the map. It’s amazing how much there was to see in a relatively small geographic area!
Our first stop is Dover Hill (#1 on the map above) overlooking a stunning view of the Cotswolds over the Vale of Evesham. On a clear day, the view includes the towers of Birmingham and the foothills of the Welsh mountains. A bit of mist on the horizon obscures some of the view, but it’s still amazing.
Atop Dover Hill overlooking the Vale of Evesham
Colin tells us that this hill is the site of the annual (apart from the past two years) Robert Dover’s Olimpick Games. And yes, Olimpick is how they spell it!
Guide Colin talks about the Robert Dover’s Olimpick Games on Dover Hill
Events include such quirky activities as shin kicking and cheese rolling. Colin provides lively descriptions and directs us to check out the video proof on YouTube. Here’s a link to one of them.
Colin takes a picture of the tour group on top of Dover Hill before we all pile back into the bus to set off to our next stop.
Go Gotwolds group picture on top of Dover Hill
Chipping Camden
As he skillfully navigates winding country roads, Colin describes how the use of the creamy, butter-colored Cotswolds stone defines the region. In fact, no new buildings may be built out of any other material. The local government carefully controls all development in the area, which has become a very expensive and fashionable area in which to live. We pass many gorgeous homes, some thatched, some with the iconic grey slate roofs. Each is impeccably maintained.
Maintaining Cotswolds Homes
Colin tells us that a friend paid 75,000 GBP to have his home re-thatched (a necessity every few decades). He also explains that a major effort is underway to train a new generation of craftspeople to tend to all the wonderful old homes in the area. Young people are encouraged to enter apprentice programs straight out of school to train for a trade that will pay very well and guarantee a lifetime of work.
As an educator myself, I am heartened to hear about such skills-based programs.
A Walk through Chipping Campden
Chipping Campden (#2) at 10 am is quiet and peaceful. Colin advises us to take a walk to see a selection of thatched-roof cottages. I take his advice and set off. No one else follows so I’m alone for most of the walk.
Thatched-roof cottages in Chipping Campden
Birds chirping, sun gently shining, a rainbow of flowers spilling forth from every garden, quaint cottages—all boxes ticked.
The walk takes me in a broad circle that leads back to the main street of Chipping Campden. I wander happily up and down the street, admiring the quirky little shops, stopping at a cute little tea room (all the tea rooms are cute; I think it’s a bylaw) for a milky coffee, and checking out the market hall.
Built in the 17th century to provide shelter for market traders, the National Trust now owns the hall which still shelters traders. When I’m there, the goods on offer are primarily sheepskins.
Market hall at Chipping Campden
Snowshill
The tiny village Snowshill (#4) is famous for its gorgeous views and as the setting for an iconic scene in the movie Bridget Jones’s Diary. We are lucky to arrive when no other tourists are around. Unchanged for centuries, the village is a delight. The only sounds are the wind rustling through the trees and the plump cooing of wood pigeons.
I take some shots of the famous village street and hike up a hill to look out over a stunning view of the Severn Vale.
Lovely Snowshill in the CotswoldsChurch at Snowshill in the Cotswolds
Nearby is Snowshill Manor, a National Trust property that includes picturesque gardens and an eclectic collection of toys, musical instruments, clocks, bicycles, samurai armour and more. We didn’t visit, but it sounds pretty cool!
Stow-on-the-Wold
More driving along even more achingly adorable country roads brings us to Stow-on-the-Wold (#5), one of the largest towns in the Cotswolds and our lunch stop. The town is thriving as a result of tourism. There’s a surfeit of ancient pubs and more cute tea rooms and plenty of shops, all of which, according to Colin, are independently owned. Franchises such as Starbucks do not exist in Cotswolds villages which makes a nice change.
Lunch at the Oldest Pub in England
I choose to have my lunch at the Porch House, billed as “the oldest pub in England.” I decide to go there after hearing from Colin that it was established in 947. The phone prefix for landlines on Bowen Island where I live is 947. I love the coincidence!
The Waldorf salad I order is very tasty, loaded with a great many satisfying lumps of local blue cheese, crisp green apple slices, candied walnuts and lots of fresh veggies.
I can’t help comparing the food I’m eating in 2022 to what passed for food in the 1970s when lived in England as a student. First off, we never ate in restaurants which was just as well because we had no money and restaurants were very few and far between in those days. And second, the British had a well-deserved reputation for tasteless food.
I remember sharing meals with my flatmates when I was a student at Reading University (1974-77) and everyone oohing and aahing over a “lovely” plate of cauliflower cheese—brown rice cooked until it turned white and lost every iota of texture, cauliflower cooked until it turned grey, and mild white cheddar (no taste whatsoever) melted in great blobs over the whole. Lovely indeed.
St. Edward’s Church in Stow-on-the-Wold
After lunch, I make a quick photo stop at St Edward’s Church to check out a mystical doorway that many say looks like a portal to another realm. J.R.R. Tolkien certainly thought so. Ancient yew trees flank the doorway which allegedly inspired his Doors of Durin in the Lord of the Rings trilogy.
Doorway into St. Edward’s Church in Stow-on-the-Wold that inspired Tolkien
Driving Backcountry Cotswolds
Back on the bus, Colin takes us down even more back country lanes through the Coln Valley on the way to the town of Bilbury which he says will be crowded (he’s right!). But to counteract the crowds to come, he treats us to a long, meandering drive through some of the most idyllic countryside in England. The tiny villages look like they haven’t changed in centuries, which is more or less true. No wonder there’s been an exodus in recent years from the big cities to the countryside with the result that real estate prices in the area are now sky high.
Bilbury
It’s a bank holiday Saturday, and thousands of people have converged upon tiny, sweet little Bilbury (6). Described by William Morris as “the most beautiful village in England,” Bilbury really does put the charm in charming.
Arlington Row in Bilbury
Bilbury’s main claim to scenic fame is the row of cottages known as Arlington Row, reputed to be the most photographed and beautiful cottages in the country. People live in the cottages, which must be a challenge in the summer. Hundreds of visitors file slowly past, each hoping to snap a picture of the row without other visitors in the way.
Arlington Row, a charming group of cottages in Bilbury village in the Cotswolds
It’s an impossible task, although like everyone else, I try.
Arlington Row of cottages in Bilbury
The cottages date from 1380 when they were built as a monastic wool store. In the 17th century, the building was converted into a row of weavers’ cottages. A fifteen-minute stroll takes me from the car park alongside the meandering River Coln to the cottages and then back on a lovely shady path next to a boggy water meadow known as Rack Isle. Back in the car park, several ice cream shops beckon. I treat myself to a salted caramel ice cream cone.
Walking toward Arlington Row in Bilbury
Bourton-on-the-Water
Bilbury is positively empty compared to Bourton-on-the-Water (#7), our next and final stop on the Go Cotswolds tour. It’s yet another gorgeous little village with the added attraction of having a river running through the center of the village. People paddle in the shallow water, stroll across the stone bridges, snap photos, eat ice cream, and generally enjoy a day out in the country.
But is is crowded! Fortunately, Colin offers to take anyone interested on a secret walk that promises to get us well away from the crowds in seconds. About eight of us follow him for what proves to be the highlight of the Go Cotswolds tour (which is saying something).
A Secret Walk in Bourton-on-the-Water
We head down a stone-walled side passage to emerge onto an expansive—and virtually empty—water meadow. Birds chips, the wind whispers, the views are entrancing, the crowds a bad memory. Yep—it’s the full on Cotswolds experience and we have it all to ourselves.
Beautiful home in Bourton-on-the-Water
Colin leads alongside a small stream to the house he promises us we’ll all want to buy. He’s right—it’s an old stone beauty set on a bend in the river and even including a gazebo in its back garden. The next time I have a few million pounds to spare, I know where to spend it.
Crowds at Bourton-on-the-Water in the Cotswolds
End of the Tour
An hour later, Colin drops me at Stratford-upon-Avon (#1) train station for my one-hour journey to Birmingham. My day out in the Cotswolds has been glorious. If you’re short on time and don’t want to drive, consider taking the Cotswolds-in-a-Day tour with Go Cotswolds. It’s a winner.
Here’s a similar tour also conducted by Go Cotswolds:
Have you visited the Cotswolds? Share your experience in the Comments section below.
Doing London in two days (even with a bit added on after landing on the first day) is kind of insane. London has so much to offer that it deserves a full week.
However, on a recent trip to London, I could spare only two days and so I was determined to pack as much artsy sightseeing into my time as possible.
Fortunately, I’ve visited London many times over the years and have seen pretty much all the major sites multiple times. As a result, I decided to visit a few old favorites and explore some new-to-me places.
Even if you’ve never visited London, my two-and-a-bit itinerary will give you a good overview of the highlights.
After getting settled at the Wilde Aparthotel (#1: see my review of this highly-recommended hotel in Covent Garden), I set off for my first artsy stop of my London stay—the elegant Courtauld Gallery at Somerset House.
Map of London Sightseeing
Here are the places I visited in London during my whirlwind two-and-a-bit-days trip in August 2022.
Arrival in London: The Bit of My Two-and-a-Bit Days
Courtauld Gallery
I first visited the Courtauld Gallery (#2) in the 1970s when I came face to face with what would become my favorite Manet painting—A Bar at the Folies-Bergère. I was only 14 years old, and seeing that painting was pretty much responsible for setting me on a course of art loving that continues to this day.
Why Visit the Courtauld
I recommend visiting the Courtauld for two reasons. First, the gallery is small enough to be easily enjoyed in an hour or two without taxing your energy and your legs. And second, it’s bursting at the seams with unbelievably awesome works.
I’ve rarely been to an art museum that includes such a thoughtful and exquisitely curated collection of works, from the middle ages to the Impressionists.
The main draw at the Courtauld Gallery is the beautiful collection of Impressionists that includes all the biggies (Monet, Manet, Renoir, Cezanne, van Gogh, etc.). Several very famous pieces are included, such as Manet’s A Bar at the Folies-Bergère and van Gogh’s Peach Trees in Blossom
A Bar at the Folies-Bergère
A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Edouard Manet
This painting is one of my favorites, and as I write in my full post on the Courtauld Gallery, seeing it in the early 1970s was one of the experiences that set me up as a life-long art lover.
There’s just something about the way in which the central character stares out at us, the audience, that is so compelling. She’s so bored and yet so vulnerable. You can’t help sympathizing with her and imagining what she’s thinking. It’s probably something along the lines of I wish he’d hurry up and give me his order so I can stop pretending to care.
Peach Trees in Blossom by Vincent van Gogh
Peach Trees in Blossom by Vincent van Gogh
My favorite van Gogh paintings are of the landscape around Arles. In fact, the very first van Gogh painting I saw was very similar to this piece in the Courtauld. I was 11 years old, visiting Montreal’s Expo 67 and seeing great art for the first time. The rest, as they say, is history.
Peach Trees in Blossom captures the scene of an open plain outside Arles and was painted in 1889. Vincent wrote to his brother Theo that the blossoms and distant snow-capped mountain reminded him of the cherry trees and Mount Fuji in Japanese prints, of which he was a great collector.
Rest of the Courtauld Gallery Collection
After thoroughly exploring the top floor, I explored the other two floors, both containing many marvelous works. The collection of medieval paintings is one of the best I’ve seen, even in big museums like the Louvre and Vatican.
I ended my joyful visit to the Courtauld with a chat with the friendly attendant in the gift shop. I bought a catalog of the collection and told him how much I loved the Courtauld and how I’d first visited way back in 1970. He was delighted.
Courtauld Gallery Practical Information
The Courtauld Gallery is open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Book your ticket in advance on the website to avoid line-ups and to make sure you get in! Check the website also for special exhibitions. The Munch exhibition I saw was worth the extra price.
First Night Dinner
Dinner was a plate of smoked salmon and fettuccine that was so delicious I wanted to weep all over again. I ate half of it and took the rest back to my room to keep in the fridge until the next day when it tasted just as good.
Scrumptious dinner in London
To bed at 8:30 pm and Day 1 in the UK came to a peaceful close.
First Full Day in London
I started my day at 7 am with a black coffee at one of the ubiquitous Café Nero’s, this one about ten steps from the front door of the Wilde Aparthotel. To my relief, the coffee was superb. Long gone are the days when the only coffee for sale in the UK was beyond inexecrable. Because I spent my early adult years in England in the 1970s, I didn’t develop a taste for coffee until I was 30. Good strong English tea was my beverage of choice for at least a decade.
After an hour of coffee and writing, I returned to my room in preparation for my first full day in London. Because time was so limited, I made reservations for almost everything I planned to do.
Taking the Uber Boat to the Globe Theatre
First stop was a tour of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre (#3). I walked down to the Thames (about five minutes away) and hopped on the boat that took me downriver to Bankside. The skyline of London was unrecognizable even since my previous trip in 2016. Dozens of new, ultra modern buildings gleamed golden in the early morning sun.
Skyline of London in the early morning viewed from the Thames River
Tour of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre
I was early for my tour—the first of the day at 10 am. I had yet another black coffee and eavesdropped on a conversation between three young women who appeared to be about eighteen. One of them loudly informed the others that none of her many boyfriends had ever gotten over her. Currently, she was in the midst of fending off the advances of a boy who kissed her in fourth form (Grade 9) and was spoiled forever for any other girl. Was she arrogant or just supremely self-confident? I couldn’t decide, but I couldn’t help hoping life would treat her well.
At 10 am, I joined about thirty people for the Globe tour. I last visited the Globe in 2007 on a trip with my mother and before that in 2001 with my daughter Julia to see a performance of The Tempest starring Vanessa Redgrave as Prospero. Although the hard seats (even with a cushion) and lack of back support somewhat detracted from the experience, I’m glad I had it!
Outside the Globe Theatre in London
Meeting Our Tour Guide
Our guide joined us—a man in his fifties named Mick. He declared that he is a genuine Cockney and certainly he sounded the part. He was very energetic and obviously loved what he does. The hour-long tour was informative and fun, and in my opinion, well worth the 17 GDP cost.
Outside the Theatre
The tour started outside the theater with Mick telling us why the theaters were built on the south bank of the Thames and not in the city. Apparently, the killjoys in the city didn’t want raucous entertainments sullying the area, and so entrepreneurs like Richard Burbage built the first theatre very close the site of the current Globe. He also talked about Sam Wanamaker, the American billionaire who made construction of the new Globe his life’s work.
Inside the Globe Theatre
We entered the theatre twice—once on the lower level and a second time on the upper level. While on the lower level, Mick provided us with graphic descriptions of the groundlings in Shakespeare’s time. Over 3000 people crammed into a space that now fits 1800 in these days of fire regulations and basic hygiene.
The pit alone, where the groundlings hung out, once fit 1000 people packed in so closely that people could not raise their arms. They were unbathed, boisterous, and very smelly. It cost a penny to get into the pit so if nature called, a groundling urinated in place rather than leave the theatre and then pay another penny to get back in. Shakespeare called the groundlings the penny stinkers.
Inside the Globe Theatre; the stage is set up for a production of I, Joan
On the upper level, Mick talked about how the gentry came to the play to see and be seen. When the Globe Theater opened in 1977, it hosted two queens. “Elizabeth I” rode into the pit on a horse and bowed to Elizabeth II seated in the royal box.
I thoroughly enjoyed the tour and recommend it as a must-do for the theatre-loving artsy traveler.
Shakespeare’s Globe Practical Information
The Globe Theatre is open for tours at specific times and pre-booking is essential. Check the website for details and to purchase tickets, preferably well in advance. From the link above, you can choose from a variety of tours. I took the Globe Theatre Guided Tour.
Tate Modern
After my Globe visit, I went next door to the Tate Modern (#4) to check out the surrealist exhibition and to take a quick tour through the permanent collection, which I’ve visited before.
My husband, Gregg Simpson is an artist (check out his work here) and one of hist paintings from the early 1970s is included in the exhibition catalog, but alas, not in the exhibition itself. The painting is currently in a museum in Spain and as a result of COVID restrictions, wasn’t sent to London or on to New York, where the exhibition goes next to be shown at the Met.
I have to say that the Surrealism Beyond Borders exhibition was not particularly compelling. The commentary was a bit on the didactic side and the quality uneven. I’m not convinced the exhibition was worth the extra cost for anyone other than a die-hard surrealism fan. I wasn’t even compelled to take pictures!
Tate Modern Permanent Collection
I explored the permanent collection at the Tate and, as I have other times I’ve been here, found it uneven. Some rooms were quick walk-throughs; others were worth lingering in, but none for all that long. There were works by most of the most famous 20th-century artists, including Picasso, Mondrian, Leger, and Matisse, but few really iconic ones.
Here are some of the highlights that attracted me.
Gothic Landscape by Lee Krasner
Lee Krasner was both the partner of Jackson Pollock and an excellent painter in her own right. Works by women are still few and far between in most of the major collections, so I was pleased to see that the Tate included a work by Krasner. Although this piece is an abstract painting, its thick vertical lines are apparently intended to invoke trees with thick knotted roots, hence the title Gothic Landscape.
Sleeping Venus by Paul Delvaux
This very famous surrealist work was painted by Delvaux in Brussels during WWII while the city was being bombed. Delvaux said of the painting that “the psychology of that moment was very exceptional, full of drama and anguish. I wanted to express this anguish in the picture, contrasted with the calm of the Venus.” I’d say he succeeded!
I was done in less than an hour. I still prefer the permanent collection of mid-20th-century masterpieces at the Pompidou in Paris to the collection at the Tate Modern.
But if you’ve never visited, definitely go and have a look. The building–a converted power station–is worth seeing, and the price of admission (free!) is worth the walk. But if you’re not a huge modern art fan, I’d recommend spending your time at the Tate Britain instead, where you’ll find several works by the pre-Raphaelites, among others.
Tower at the Tate Modern soaring into the blue London sky
Tate Modern Practical Information
The Tate Modern is open from 10:00 to 18:00 every day and admission is free, except for special exhibitions. Check the websitefor details.
Lunch and the Museum of the Home
The sun shone brilliantly as I walked across the Thames, pausing to take shots of iconic Saint Paul’s Cathedral and the incredibly modern skyline. London sure has changed since I first visited in 1970!
Saint Paul’s Cathedral viewed from the south bank of the Thames The old and the new in London’s financial district
I stopped at a Wagamama (Asian-inspired chain restaurant) for a quick lunch that turned into a very long lunch because my order was forgotten. When finally I got it, the server had the good grace to not charge me. Needless to say, I won’t be back!
Museum of the Home
I took the bus to the Museum of the Home (#5) in Shoreditch which turned out to be a disappointment probably because I missed most of it by going in what was actually the back door. I saw only a few rooms—from the Victorian era, WW1, the 1930s, the 1950s, and the 1990s. It wasn’t worth the long journey. But whatever. Live and learn.
One of the home interiors at the Museum of the Home in Shoreditch
Traveling by Uber in London
To get back to my hotel, I ordered my first London Uber. Unfortunately, I was in the wrong place so the driver eventually drove past and cancelled on me. Uber sent a new driver who took the time to find me. Omar from Somali turned out to be a big talker—nonstop for the half hour trip. He told me that he’s a traditional Muslim, determined that his four children aged 8 to 16 stay on the straight and narrow. He also told me about his business interests in Somalia, his huge extended family, and the recent death of his father.
Back at the Wilde, I had a wee nap and was recharged! Out again at 4 pm, I walked five minutes to the National Gallery.
National Gallery
I love the National Gallery (#6)! I spent an hour wandering from room to room, eyes tearing up as every turn brought new masterpieces before me. All of the biggies from the Middle Ages to the Impressionists are here. I felt very emotional as I kept coming face to face with so much beloved art while also discovering new pieces to admire.
Interior of the National Gallery in London
Here are some highlights.
The Fighting Temeraire by William Turner
The Fighting Temeraire by William Turner
When I was growing up, my dad had a print of this famous piece by Turner hanging in his study. It was one of the first works of art I ever saw as a child. I think he purchased it in London in the early 1960s. I always loved looking at the sky, and so wasn’t surprised when as an adult I discovered that Turner was famous for his depiction of light.
The Bathers by Georges Seurat
The Bathers by Georges Seurat
I’d forgotten this iconic piece by Seurat was in the National Gallery. It dominates a room full of other Impressionist masterpieces. There’s something so timeless about this piece–people relaxing on a fine summer’s day, each lost in their thoughts. But what is the dog looking at?
The National Gallery includes famous pieces by just about every major European artist, including van Gogh, Monet, Michelangelo, and Vermeer, to name a few. It’s a world-class art museum but not as overwhelming as the Louvre, for example. You can easily see the highlights in about an hour.
National Gallery Practical Information
The National Gallery is open from 10:00 to 18:00 every day and until 21:00 on Friday. Admission is free, except for special exhibitions. Check the website for details.
Dinner and a Show
After enjoying the National Gallery, I lingered awhile to enjoy the view over Trafalgar Square (#7). I was reminded of when I ended up in Trafalgar Square at midnight on New Year’s Eve in 1974 when I was eighteen and attending Reading University.
As the year turned to 1975, my friends and I were engulfed by people yelling and celebrating. A very large man grabbed hold of me and kissed me. Needless to say, we quickly escaped. We ran through deserted streets (the tube had already stopped) only to discover that we’d missed the last train back to Surrey where my friend lived.
We ended up spending a cold few hours huddled on a park bench in Green Park. At about 3 am, a bobby came by and ushered us out so the rest of the night was spent in Victoria Station waiting for the first train. I had severe heartburn after sampling my very first Indian curry earlier in the evening, and thought I was dying!
At Trafalgar Square in London
This is Now
My experience of Trafalgar Square on a lovely sunny day about fifty years later after swooning over the masterpieces in the National Gallery was a big improvement over New Year’s Eve 1974.
After enjoying Trafalgar Square and my memories, I headed for The Restaurant (that’s its name, really!) for dinner prior to seeing My Fair Lady. I walked past the place three times before finally finding it. I was the only customer for the theater menu—a fabulous chicken terrine for the starter and trout for the main course. The food was absolutely superb and reasonably priced. I couldn’t understand why no one was there.
My Fair Lady
My first show in London! I took my seat in the dress circle and felt very glad I opted to buy a premium seat. My view was perfect.
My Fair Lady at The Coliseum in London
The show was fabulous (well, of course!). The actor playing Eliza had an amazing voice. She owned the stage every time she opened her mouth. Another stand-out was the actor playing her father Alfred P. Doolittle. The actor playing Higgins managed to escape the shadow of Rex Harrison and was almost sympathetic (no easy matter!). Another stand-out was the actor playing Freddy. He totally killed On the Street Where You Live.
My Fair Lady stands the test of time.
Second Full Day in London
A peal of thunder in the middle of the night heralded a dreary, rainy morning on my second full day in London. I didn’t mind in the least! Armed with a sturdy umbrella provided by the Wilde Aparthotel (I really like this place), I ventured forth (after my coffee at Café Nero) for my first stop of the day—a tour of Westminster Abbey.
Westminster Abbey
I’ve visited Westminster Abbey (#8) several times over the years, and it never fails to impress. I was practically the first person through the door with my pre-purchased ticket for 10 am entry. For almost all of my visit, I had the abbey virtually to myself.
Westminster Abbey
Westminster Abbey facing the altar
Each guest was provided with an audio guide and headphones. Since my last visit in 2016, the audio guide has improved significantly. It was like a mini SmartPhone with a large screen that showed videos to accompany the audio. I listened to and watched every video!
As always, my favorite part of Westminster Abbey was Poet’s Corner. So many great writers were either buried or commemorated there—Chaucer, Milton, Shakespeare, Jane Austen, Dickens… the list goes on. Few other visitors were around and spent many happy minutes strolling from plaque to plaque, memorial to memorial.
Jane Austen’s memorial in Poet’s Corner in London’s Westminster Abbey
As I wandered around Westminster Abbey, I didn’t, of course, suspect that in just a few more weeks it would take the world stage as the setting for the Queen’s funeral.
Wallace Collection
After touring Westminster Abbey, I checked out the Wallace Collection (#9), which was new to me. Housed in a magnificent mansion, the Wallace collection is billed as “an internationally outstanding collection which contains unsurpassed masterpieces of paintings, sculpture, furniture, arms and armour and porcelain.”
Mansion housing the Wallace Collection in London
Yep, that’s about right. I’d rarely seen so much stuff crowded into so many rooms in my life. Wandering through the many, many rooms was kind of like being obliged to eat too much fudge. It’s tasty, sure, but eating too much just kind of makes you feel like you’d rather have toast.
That said, the Wallace Collection is worth a visit, particularly if you’re interested in armor and porcelain. There are numerous magnificent examples.
A display of armor at the Wallace Collection
For me, the special exhibition was more interesting than the permanent collection. Called Inspiring Walt Disney: The Animation of French Decorative Arts, the exhibition illustrated how films such as Cinderella and Beauty and the Beast were heavily inspired by French decorative arts of the 1800s. An excellent audio guide and several animated displays underscored the artistry that went into creating the two iconic films.
One Evening; Two Musicals
With only two full days in London, I opted to cram in three musicals. Fortunately, one of the musicals (Six) started at 5 pm and ran for just 90 minutes so I had time to fit in Jersey Boys, mostly because the Trafalgar Theater is only a five-minute walk from the Vaudeville Theater on the Strand where Six was playing and second, because I’d never seen it (although I did see the movie).
Six: The Musical
Six tells the story of Henry VIII’s six wives – Catherine of Aragon (divorced), Anne Boleyn (beheaded), Jane Seymour (died), Anne of Cleves (divorced), Katherine Howard (beheaded) and Katharine Parr (survived). The “divorced, beheaded, died, divorced, beheaded, survived” riff ran through this exceedingly energetic and highly recommended production.
Each wife—excuse me, each queen—took a turn singing a song to convince us that her life was the saddest of the six. The songs were funny, heartbreaking, poignant, and extraordinarily creative. Outlandish costumes, wacky dancing, and excellent vocals made for a deliciously entertaining 90 minutes.
The six queens in Six take their bows
I emerged from the theater refreshed and ready for more.
Jersey Boys
A quick walk down the Strand past Charing Cross brought me to the Trafalgar Theater, which is, not surprisingly, within spitting distance of Trafalgar Square. Unlike for both Six and My Fair Lady, the theater was not full, most likely because the musical has been playing for several years.
Whereas most of the audience for Six were young women under 35, most of the audience for Jersey Boys appeared to be over sixty, hardly surprising considering the subject.
My seat was cheek-by-jowl with a large English man—a Cockney from London he informed me. Although friendly and chatty, he had a habit of overflowing into my space. Fortunately, several seats to my immediate left were empty so at the interval, I shifted over. I don’t think he was offended, although we never spoke again after I shifted.
Jersey Boys tells the story of Frankie Valli, the falsetto crooner famous for such hits as Sherry, Can’t Take My Eyes Off of You, Walk Like a Man, Big Girls Don’t Cry, and Rag Doll. It was a walk down memory lane for we over-60s and very enjoyable. The actor who played Frankie Valli was fabulous. How he managed to belt those falsetto songs out night after night amazed me. My vocal cords hurt just listening to him.
After two shows, I was famished (no time for dinner!) and so I stopped by one of the many Italian eateries for a plate of shrimp sauteed with peppers (so good and fresh). It was then home to bed and the end of my London adventure.
Tours & Tickets in London
Here are some more tour options in London with Tiqets.com
Walking Tours
Fancy a walking tour? London has many options for walking tours. I can highly recommend the walks hosted by GuruWalks. Here are some options:
Conclusion
Have you traveled to London? What are your suggestions for artsy travelers? Which art museums are your favorites? Share your suggestions in the Comments section below.
I recently visited the Courtauld Gallery within hours of landing at Heathrow after flying to London from Vancouver. After three years away from Europe, I was itching to see great art, and the Courtauld Gallery turned out to be the perfect place to ease my way back into artsy traveling.
It’s small, it’s centrally located, and its collection is exquisite.
The highlights of the Courtauld Gallery are the truly impressive Impressionist collection and the medieval collection.
What is the Courtauld Gallery?
The Courtauld Gallery is part of the renowned Courtauld Institute of Art. This research-led higher education institution is the University of London’s largest community of art historians, conservators and curators. The gallery recently reopened after being closed for three years. The new and improved version is little short of spectacular.
Impressionist Collection at the Courtauld Gallery
Like the vast majority of visitors, I headed first to the top floor to view the Impressionist collection and the special exhibition of paintings by Edvard Munch (see my review of this exhibition). The room containing the Impressionist collection attracts the most visitors and can get a bit crowded.
I walked into the large room containing a delicious collection of Impressionists and immediately had to sit down to prevent myself from falling down and embarrassing myself. What I really wanted to do is laugh out loud and twirl myself past masterpiece after masterpiece, giddy with the beauty surrounding me.
When, finally, I collected myself, I began pacing slowly and reverently past gorgeous painting after gorgeous painting by all the biggies—Monet, Cézanne, Gauguin, Renoir, and on and on.
Here are just a few of the highlights of the Impressionist collection.
Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan by Paul Cézanne
“Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan” by Paul Cezanne
Cézanne painted many views of the countryside surrounding Jas de Bouffan, a rural estate outside Aix-en-Provence owned by Cézanne’s father. Having visited the area, I can attest that Cézanne captures the shimmering quality of the light and the particularly vivid shades of green unique to Provence. My favorite Cézannes are his paintings of the Provence landscapes and this one is a keeper for sure!
Young Woman Powdering Herself by Georges Seurat
“Young Woman Powdering Herself” by Georges Seurat
I’ve long been a fan of Georges Seurat who created the “pointillist” style of painting. He followed newly formulated optical theories by placing colors from opposite sides of the color wheel–orange and blue; pink and green–next to each other to create contrast. Seurat died at age 31 but he left behind some stunning works, this one being his only major portrait.
Self Portrait with Bandaged Ear by Vincent van Gogh
“Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear” by Vincent van Gogh
I couldn’t believe the Courtauld had this piece! It’s one of my favorite van Goghs. I love how he contrasts the various colors–blue hat, green coat, orange face–and also includes the image of one of the Japanese prints he collected. Van Gogh was heavily influenced by Japanese printmaking. He painted this piece in 1889, a week after leaving hospital following the famous incident when he cut off a portion of his left ear after a heated argument with Paul Gauguin. Even injured, van Gogh was determined to keep painting.
The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin
The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin
And speaking of Gauguin, I was thrilled to see this piece which he painted while he was living in Brittany. Gregg Simpson (husband and painter) is currently working on the Pont Aven Suite, a series inspired by Gauguin’s Brittany paintings, so Gauguin has been a regular topic of a conversation in our house. I love how Gauguin simplifies and flattens forms and colors. This piece has so much movement–the women raking hay above and the man driving the oxen below.
A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Edouard Manet
A Bar at the Folies-Bergères by Edouard Manet
Fabulous as all the pieces in the Impressionist collection are, the best of all is my old friend A Bar at the Folies-Bergères by Manet. What a painting!
The young barmaid (the model’s name was Suzon) looks out at the viewer, her expression both bored and vulnerable at the same time. According to the descriptive text next to the piece, “Manet created a complex and absorbing compostion that is considered one of the iconic paintings of modern life.” That is certainly true!
Suzon is every person in the world working in a dead-end job they hate and yet obliged to pretend they enjoy for the sake of the customers.
Medieval Collection at the Courtauld Gallery
After thoroughly exploring the top floor, I began my descent to the other two floors to explore the rest of the Courtauld Gallery’s collection. I was in for a treat as it turned out.
One of my favorite eras for painting is the middle ages, particularly the first half of the 14th century when artists were not worried about perspective and realism. I love the use of gold, the pastel shades of the egg tempera paint the artists used, and the lego-like way in which they depicted medieval buildings.
Well, the Courtauld delivered! To my delight, it houses a lovely medieval collection that includes such notables as Lorenzetti and Duccio—two hometown boys from Siena, my fave Italian city (and one of the settings for The Towers of Tuscany).
As is often the case in art museums, the medieval rooms were pretty much empty so I drifted from painting to painting and admired to my heart’s content.
A highlight is a series of small panels painted by Fra Angelico (1417-1455) that depicts six female saints. Each face is incredibly expressive and compelling. I wonder who Fra Angelico used as models.
Other Highlights of the Courtauld Gallery Collection
After thoroughly exploring and enjoying the large collection of medieval art, I toured the rest of the collection. There’s a fair number of works from the 16th to the 19th centuries, including works by Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Reynolds, and Rubens.
A big selling point of the Courtauld is its compact size and that each piece in the colleciton is stellar. I don’t think I’ve ever visited an art museum where the quality of all the pieces is so uniformly high.
After my visit, I got chatting with the young man in the gift shop. He enthusiastically agreed that the Courtauld’s collection is first-rate and also kindly listened to me rattle on about how I first visited the Courtauld with my mom back in 1970 (likely a good forty years befor he was born!)
Here are two more of my favorites at the Courtauld Gallery.
“Adam and Eve” by Cranach the Elder
“Landscape with the Flight Into Egypt” by Pieter Bruegel the Elder
Courtauld Gallery Practical Information
The Courtauld Gallery is open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Book your ticket in advance on the website to avoid line-ups and also to make sure you get in! Check the website also for special exhibitions. The Munch exhibition I saw was definitely worth the extra price.
London Tours & Tickets
Here are some options for touring London and buying tickets for interesting museums such as the Design Museum and other attractions.
GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of London!
Conclusion
As my first visit to a world-class art museum in three years, the Courtauld was the perfect choice. It gently eased me back into artsy traveling, doling out artsy hits like small bites of gourmet chocolates—each one more flavorful than the last and yet all equally fabulous.
Have you visited the Courtauld? Which piece was your favorite? Share your experience in the Comments section below.
Here are some more posts about favorite art museums in Europe:
The Wilde Aparthotel at Covent Garden is the perfect place to stay on a short visit to London.
The price is reasonable (under $200 CDN a night when I booked, although this price may vary), the amenities and comforts are first rate, and the location unbelievable.
I’ve stayed in many places in London over the years, highlights being the ParkCity in Kensington and The Cavendish near Green Park, but never have I stayed in a place as fabulously located and appointed as Wilde Aparthotel, particularly if you, like me, are a theater nut.
Location, Location, Location
From the Wilde Aparthotel, you can walk to most West End theaters in under five minutes. Two of them are just across the street on the Strand.
After an evening at the theater, nothing kills the post-applause buzz like a long tube ride. I prefer to waltz no more than a few blocks along brightly lit streets thronged with other theatergoers. I especially appreciate the Wilde Aparthotel’s location when I am visiting London alone. Safety first, and for the solo traveler, the area feels very safe.
Value for Money at the Wilde Aparthotel
The Wilde Aparthotel, which is part of a chain owned by StayCity (their other property is at Paddington), has figured out how to provide visitors with a four-star experience in a five-star location at a price that won’t require them to mortgage their homes back home.
They cut corners on unnecessary stuff and spend money on things that directly contribute to customer comforts.
The two most obvious cuts are the lack of a lobby and breakfast service. A lobby is generally a waste of space and food is certainly not hard to come by in this part of London. Several coffee shops are within a five-minute walk of the hotel.
Arriving at the Wilde Aparthotel
Guests walk into a narrow entranceway and go immediately up the elevator to their rooms. Everything is sleek, modern and kind of quirky, befitting a hotel named after Oscar Wilde.
According to a plaque at the entrance, the hotel was opened by Oscar Wilde’s grandson. How cool is that!
An attendant is on duty each time I enter the hotel, always greeting me warmly and asking me if I need anything. Every staff member I encounter during my stay at the Wilde Aparthotel is friendly and professional. I feel like they really want me to have a good stay.
Room Features
My room is pretty tiny, but it has everything I can possibly need including a full kitchen, a desk, a fabulous rainforest shower, a large TV and a very comfy bed. Okay, I have to crawl across the bed and navigate around a million pillows to get to the window so I can open and close the curtains, but that’s not much of an inconvenience.
The room would be small for two people, but it is perfect for one.
My very comfortable bed at the Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden
Free Stuff
The fridge is stocked with free glass bottles of water (with more available whenever needed) and snacks. Yes, you read that right–free.
Unlike every other hotel I’ve ever stayed in, the Wilde Aparthotel does not charge for the contents of the minibar. Gone is the feverish scanning of price lists at 3 am, recoiling at the eye-watering prices and then having to make the agonizing choice between eating dinner the next day and slaking your thirst.
Instead, I pluck a cold, recyclable glass bottle of water and happily chug it down, secure in the knowledge that I can have another…and another.
Kitchen area in the room at the Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden
Room Layout
The space is thoughtfully arranged with lots of little touches like fragrant shampoos and lotions in large refillable bottles, a sturdy umbrella which I needed on Day 2, fluffy towels, and good lighting. Really, it can’t be more perfect.
Back in the day, most affordable accommodation in London consisted of dreary bed-and-breakfasts with bathrooms down the hall, thin towels, lumpy beds, and hideous wallpaper reminiscent of Oscar Wilde’s last words on Earth.
Either that wallpaper goes or I do.
And he did.
What’s Close to the Wilde Aparthotel?
The Wilde Aparthotel is located on Adams Street just around the corner from the Strand. It’s no more than a five-minute walk from Trafalgar Square, the Thames, and Covent Garden.
Busses ply the Strand constantly to get to wherever you need to go in minutes. For my entire two-and-a-bit days in London, I never needed to take the Underground.
Numerous coffee shops and restaurants are very close by. On my first night, I enjoy a wonderful plate of fettucine and smoked salmon at Uvilo, an Italian place directly across the Strand from the hotel. The portion is huge so I pack up the leftovers to store in my fridge. The small kitchen is equipped with a microwave and stove so the next day I’m able to heat up the leftovers for lunch. I’ve never had access to kitchen facilities in a London hotel.
I will definitely stay at the Wilde Aparthotel again and can recommend it unreservedly.
An Artsy Traveler is always on the look-out for those magical moments that make traveling so, well, magical.
Guest poster, writer, storyteller, performer (and fellow Bowen Islander!) Tina Overbury shares her experience finding magical moments with trees while participating in a writing program in Dartmoor, England (one of my favorite places!).
Overview
‘Stories don’t enchant, they break spells’ – Dr. Martin Shaw, Director of the West Country School of Myth
I’m fresh back from a week-long summer school program called Tent of the Seven Doors from The West Country School of Myth. Led by storyteller and mythologist Martin Shaw, who is also the founder of the Oral Tradition and Mythic Life courses at Stanford University, the program was located in Dartmoor National Park in the southwest corner of England.
I had just completed a two-week story pilgrimage in Ireland and decided that since I’m so close, I should really hop over to England and tick a story-box I’ve been carrying for a long time.
Who is Dr. Martin Shaw, Director of the West Country School of Myth?
I came across Dr. Martin Shaw’s work seven years ago when my writing partner, Meribeth Deen, sent me an article from Emergence Magazine: Mud and Antler Bone. I swear I listened to that interview fifty times. I used to run to it and then stop it mid-stride, catch my breath and slap my head with: What? What did he say…?
OMGGGGGG – There’s a language for what I see in my head? Other people talk like this?
I didn’t understand then that the way my instrument as an artist works is through ‘thinking’ and ‘hearing’ in mythological terms.
What this looks like for my friends is that I have a rather obnoxious habit (to some) of explaining everything in metaphor. This isn’t because I think I’m all that and a bag of chips, or because I’m trying to hide from being clear about anything. It’s because to me, using symbols and imagery that are thick with textured meaning ARE the closest way I know to speak succinctly.
Communicating Truth
How else can you communicate the complexity of honesty and the truth? Or so says me! And thankfully I discovered this summer during my travels that a gaggle of other story people say so too.
Let me tell you about three magic moments I had with trees in beautiful, mystical Dartmoor.
Magical Moment 1: Finding the Ashes
To provide a context for the magical moments with trees I experienced while walking on the moor, I first need to go back two years to when I wrote a piece called OMYGOD about the women we burned, the babies we buried and the Gods we have worshiped.
As the name sounds, it was a tough piece to write. I didn’t choose to write it, it chose me, and to top it all off, I decided to perform it as a live storytelling piece. However, due to the pandemic, we filmed it instead. All this to say, I had to memorize the damn thing–all 60 pages and 93 minutes of it.
The ‘women we burned’ part – the story that named six Irish women who were burned at the stake for witchcraft – was proving impossible to memorize. I just couldn’t get the words of those women into my body. I tried everything. I walked, I prayed, I asked… I did everything.
The Magical Power of Dreams
Eventually, I engaged in a dreaming session with a healer friend of mine. I saw myself as a birthing aid of sorts. I was in a hut smoothing clay like mud across a dying woman’s chest. She was taking her last breaths post-childbirth and I was placing lavender on her throat. Best as I could make sense, I was helping her transition to the other side. Because of this, the clergy and the officials of the town took me, and I was burned alongside a number of other women for witchcraft.
As dreams can do, I was able to step in and out of places in the story. I didn’t watch myself or the other women burn. Instead, I time jumped to the place where they were all ashes and I was on the outside.
I stood in front of the line of pyres in front of me, and I cried and cried and cried, saying over and over again…
’What happened to the ashes of these women? Who collected their ashes? Who laid them to rest?’
Finding the Story in a Tree
And then I stepped wayyyyyy out and started picking up pieces of wood and laying them in a circle, like a sacred line of acknowledgement of their life, and to mark their death.
Magical Moment 2: Exploring the Landscape of Place
The Tent of the Seven Doors program certainly wasn’t like any other writing class I’d taken. To be fair, it wasn’t a writing class. In fact, I’m not even sure it was a ‘class’, but rather an initiation into the realm of mythical storytelling.
We didn’t learn through cognitive lesson plans with hand-outs or PowerPoints. We didn’t learn through experiences and examples unpacked through journaling or reflections. The truth is, I’m still trying to figure out how we learned, but if I had to guess, I’d have to say that we learned through invitation.
We were invited to step from one world into another.
We were invited through the landscape of place.
We were invited through the imagining that happened with each story.
Each day we would experience a story, and each afternoon or evening we would experience the land.
Connecting with a Lush and Luxuriant Oak
On one such afternoon, I came a gorgeous oak and unlike most of the scarred and barren trees of the moor, she is lush and radiant and there is more limb and branch to her than trunk. She has been reaching toward the sun for a very long time.
I spent some time with her and found myself collecting sticks. I was finishing a story that started with a dream a number of months ago. I acknowledged more women, and I collected more ashes. I placed a circle of sticks around her.
And then that dreamscape story of OMYGOD felt complete. I don’t have much more to say about that other than I knew it was done.
But then…
Magical Moment 3: The Cork Tree Walks with Me
Have you ever seen a cork oak tree? Because I sure hadn’t.
There is a HUGE cork oak by the enormous fire pit at the back of the property where we gathered to close our summer school experience. Seeing that tree made me think that I had just stepped into The Shire from The Lord of the Rings. I had to talk myself out of believing it could walk.
You know when you’re walking down the street and a dog starts to follow you and if you look back he’ll keep following so you have to discipline yourself TO NOT LOOK BACK? Well, that was me.
I mean, how was it going to make it into the house with me? Okay, I know this tree can’t actually walk. But jeeeeeeeeeeez… I swear, this tree was magnificent.
It transported me to a place I have only ever made fun of: the land of affirmation people, the ones who only see the world through the lens of sunshine, rainbows and lollipops.
But there it was.
If Snow White was a real person, she would step out of a little apple-red door with the seven dwarfs following behind, singing Heigh Ho, Heigh Ho…
Check this out (you’ll even hear the cows!) :
The Magic of a Cork Tree
And to touch the bark? I mean the cork… I mean the bark. It is light, like the false front of a western town film set, except this isn’t a facade. It’s a whole damn tree and it has to be hundreds of years old.
She was the antithesis and antidote to all the gloom, grief and burning that had been my journey of mythic trees thus far.
I fully expected unicorns and fairies to pour out of its bark like a clown car filled with magic instead of red-shoed men.
Who knew?
Holding the Light and the Dark
As an artist, I’m comfortable in the darker shades of story. I easily walk the bottom of the ocean while holding hands with the harder emotions. I write pieces to look for hope. I write to discover the color that lives in the shadowy blend of things, but this time, I didn’t have to.
This gorgeous cork oak tree did all the heavy lifting for me.
Learning Community
“In troubled times we can create a culture of resistance and delight. The learning community believes that myth has something vital to say about the condition of both our lives and the earth. That certain stories we need right now arrived, perfectly on time, about five thousand years ago. Central to this is the notion that culture and wildness have experienced an artificial separation, and that both initiation and myth can create what Shaw calls a Culture of Wildness.”
Martin also says: ‘When the center is in crisis, it is only from the edge that the genius comes’. I believe him.
So while these days, there IS a lot to be troubled about…for sure, there is also much to be hopeful for.
Please meet this community of Bards, Storytellers, Eco-Romantics, land-as-church visionaries, fire-dwellers, academics, nurturers and fools.
There is a movement afoot.
And it’s coming from multiple directions.
These are mythic times.
Read about Tina Overbury on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page. Here are some other contributions from Tina and other guest posters to help you get the most of your artsy traveling.
Do you enjoy reading novels set in the places you are traveling to? I know I do. I love curling up at the end of a long day of sightseeing and reading a novel that helps me revisit the places I’ve seen.
I’ve chosen my top ten novels based on two criteria. First, the novel needs to evoke a sense of the place in which it was set, and second, it needs to relate in some way to the arts. You’re sure to find some new-to-you reads to take along on your next trip, or even to stay at home with.
England
Entertaining Mr Pepysby Deborah Swift
Entertaining Mr Pepys is the third novel in Deborah Swift’s “Women of Pepys’ Diary” series. All three novels are worth taking along if you are spending time in London and want a fascinating glimpse of what life was like in the 1660s. Famed diarist Samuel Pepys is at the center of this and the first two novels (Pleasing Mr Pepys and A Plague on Mr Pepys), each following a different woman who knew Samuel and was mentioned in his diary. In Entertaining Mr Pepys, the actress Elizabeth (Bird) Carpenter takes center stage as she navigates the world of the theater when women were finally allowed on stage as actresses. If you enjoy impeccably researched historical novels with plenty of intrigue, then the “Women of Pepys’ Diary” series is for you.
The Lost Book of the Grail by Charlie Lovett
While traveling in England, plan on touring some of its awesome cathedrals (don’t miss York Minster, Salisbury Cathedral, and Durham Cathedral to name just three of my faves!) and then settle down with The Lost Book of the Grail. The setting is an ancient cathedral in the fictional town of Barchester. Flashback chapters open with succinct descriptions of cathedral areas such as cloisters, the nave, chapels, and more that I found fascinating. Through a series of clever flashbacks, you navigate the history of the cathedral from its founding by a martyred saint through the Norman invasion, Reformation, Civil War, Victorian era, World War II, and modern times. The plot’s twists and turns provide enough mystery to make the denouement both surprising and satisfying.
France
Drawing Lessons by Patricia Sands
Are you taking a trip to Provence? Then pack or download a copy of Drawing Lessons, a delicious novel set in Arles that follows a woman’s quest to redefine herself after the death of her husband. Patricia Sands evokes the sensuous delights of Provence so beautifully that you’ll feel like you are there. And if, indeed, you are there, you’ll have the sights and smells that surround you confirmed in the story.
The Paris Hours by Alex George
This is the novel to read when you’re spending time in Paris. The Paris Hours tells the stories of four “ordinary” people during one day in Paris in 1927. Along the way, they encounter an extraordinary panoply of luminaries including Hemingway, Proust, Picasso, Gertrude Stein, Ravel, Josephine Baker, and even Sylvia Beach, the proprietor of Paris’s most famous English bookstore, Shakespeare & Company. Alex George brings the ambience, and the people, of Paris to life as he takes readers through streets and parks they can still walk through today. Surprises and twists abound in one of the most cleverly plotted and exquisitely written novels I’ve read in a long while.
Germany
And After the Fireby Lauren Belfer
I am a huge fan of the music of Johann Sebastian Bach (check out my visit to the Bach Museum in Leipzig) and so And After the Fire was the novel for me. It tells the fascinating story of a lost Bach manuscript with a disturbing message. The story spans over two hundred years, from Berlin in the 18th century through the Holocaust to New York in contemporary times. Inspired by historical events, the compelling narrative of this deeply researched and evocative novel resonates with emotion and immediacy.
Chasing the Wind by C. C. Humphreys
Heading for Berlin? Take along Chasing the Wind, a rollicking good adventure that mixes a Bruegel masterpiece, a female aviator, espionage, and the 1936 Berlin Olympics. It’s a page-turner, so make sure you’ve finished your sightseeing for the day before reading it, else you may decide to stay in your hotel room and read rather than go out to sample Berlin’s many museums (check out Booming Berlin: Your Artsy Guide for suggestions about what to do during a three-day visit to Berlin).
Italy
Raphael, Painter in Rome by Stephanie Storey
No trip to Rome is complete without experiencing the art of Raphael, Michelangelo and da Vinci. And the perfect novel to accompany you is Raphael, Painter in Romeby Stephanie Storey, and her other novel Oil and Marble. Both chronicle the lives of three of the most renowned artists in western Europe: Raphael in Raphael, Painter in Rome and Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci in Oil and Marble. Even in the 21st century, there are parts of old Rome in which only a small leap of the imagination is needed to be transported back to the Renaissance when intrigue lurked around every corner and the smell of oil paint was heavy in the air. Raphael. Painter in Rome takes you deep into the heart of a Rome that may be long gone but still lingers in the imagination after dark.
Netherlands
Girl with a Pearl Earring by Tracy Chevalier
One of the things I love about touring the Netherlands is how the light often reminds me of an Old Master painting. One of the most famous is Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring. So, the perfect read for fans of his work is the novel of the same name by Tracy Chevalier. Set in 17th-century Delft, Girl with a Pearl Earring is a richly-imagined portrait of the young woman who inspired the painting. I love how Chevalier seamlessly merges history and fiction in this and many of her other novels set in Europe, including The Lady and the Unicorn (14th-century France), Burning Bright(late 18th-century London), Falling Angels (early 20th-century London), A Single Thread(1930s England), and Remarkable Creatures (early 19th-century England).
Spain
The Return by Victoria Hislop
I picked up a copy of The Returnin a second-hand bookstore while wandering the back streets of Antibes seeking shade at the height of the 2019 heat wave (la canicule, as the French called it). It was the perfect novel to read while traveling west into Spain. It takes place both in the present and during the Spanish Civil War, a time in history about which I knew very little. The story of a flamenco guitar player (a tocadores) and a flamenco dancer (a bailaora) who fall in love in 1930s Granada and are separated during the terrible excesses of the Spanish Civil War will stay with you long after you leave Spain.
The Miramonde Trilogy by Amy Maroney
For a book lover, few things are more enchanting than enjoying a novel and then discovering that it’s the first in a trilogy. I had that experience after reading The Girl from Oto, the first offering in Amy Maroney’s trilogy about a female artist in Renaissance Spain, the other two novels being Mira’s Way and A Place in the World. I read all three not long after I traveled through the Pyrenees where much of the story takes place. Amy Maroney brings the region to life wonderfully—its wildlife and independent mountain people, the sweeping landscapes and harsh weather, and the turbulent history during the time when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella were on the throne.
What’s your favorite artsy novel set in Europe? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
