17 Must-See Places to Visit in France You Should Know About

As the largest country in western Europe, France has more than its fair share of amazing places to visit.

I’ve been going to France since 1970 when, at the age of 14, I traveled around Europe with my mother on a budget of about $10 a day (you can read about that trip in My Story. This amount covered our hotels, city tours, meals, and probably even our Eurail passes. I don’t remember exactly because I wasn’t paying the bill.

Pin describing the blog post 17 Must-See Places to Visit in France You Should Know About

Since then, I’ve returned to France numerous times—both alone and with Gregg (usually with Gregg). In the past ten years, we’ve visited France together eight times, bringing my lifetime total to 17 visits.

So if you’re wondering why I’m listing 17 places to visit in France, now you know! I want to celebrate my 17 visits to France by listing my 17 quirky, fascinating, amazing favorites. Each holds special memories for me that I want to share with other artsy travelers.

Carol Cram in Normandy countryside
In the Normandy countryside about an hour south of Honfleur, one of my 17 Awesome Places in France

Map of France Showing My 17 Choices

The map below shows my 17 choices in the order in which I mention them, starting with Honfleur (#1) and ending with the Fontainebleau Forest (#17). If you have wheels, you could easily string together an around-France itinerary using these 17 places as stop-over points.

I also include a Google map showing the location of each individual place following its description in the post.

Making the List

You may not have heard of all of theses places to visit in France, but each is worth a visit.

For a place to make my list, it needed to have an artsy component, be beautiful (not hard to do in France), and be off the beaten path. As a result, you won’t find the big name places like Paris, Nice, and Lyon on the list (fabulous though they are).

Ready to check out my 17 favorite places to visit in France? Here they are, starting with Honfleur on the Normandy coast northwest of Paris and going in a more or less counter-clockwise direction to take in Brittany, the Loire Valley, the Dordogne, the south of France, the east of France and ending at the Fontainebleau Forest just south of Paris.

#1: Honfleur, Normandy

A few years ago, Gregg and I were fortunate to be artists-in-residence at a gallery located in the Perche region of central Normandy. For two months when we weren’t painting (Gregg) and writing (me), we explored this beautiful and untrammeled area. Although close to Paris, peaceful rural Normandy feels like another country.

On one trip, we went north to the gorgeous little town of Honfleur on the Normandy coast. To our delight, Honfleur was packed with artsy sites.

What is Special About Honfleur as Place to Visit in France?

Art Galleries in Honfleur

First of all, if you’re looking to purchase art, Honfleur is renowned for its galleries. You can spend many happy hours browsing the offerings in the galleries lining the streets leading to the harbor.

From an architectural perspective, Honfleur has much to offer. The Church of St. Catherine on the town square was built entirely of wood in the late 15th century by shipwrights. Wander through the church to view its many decorative details.

Church of St. Catherine in Honfleur, Normandy. Honfleur is one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France.
Church of St. Catherine in Honfleur, Normandy

The Vieux-Bassin

You’ll eventually end up at the harbor (the vieux-bassin), surely one of the most stunning sights in Normandy. The distinctive high and narrow timber-frame houses are reflected in the still water of the boat-filled harbor.

We spent quite a bit of time walking along the harborfront enjoying the gorgeous views and stopping for a dinner of moules et frites (mussels and fries) along with local wine.

The Vieux-Bassin in Honfleur harbor is lined with wonderful cafés. It's one of my recommended places to visit in France
The Vieux-Bassin in Honfleur harbor is lined with wonderful cafés.

Museums in Honfleur

Two museums in Honfleur are particularly attractive to the Artsy Museum.

First up is the Musée Eugène Boudin, named after the painter Boudin who was born in Honfleur. The museum exhibits an impressive collection of Boudin’s paintings along with works by other artists who have visited or are closely associated with Honfleur, including some big names: Courbet, Dufy, and Monet (you’ve probably heard of him!).

As a side note, Honfleur is not far from Étretat which we also visited. Courbet, Boudin and Monet each painted these cliffs.

Alabaster Coast at Etretat.  Aval cliff. Normandy, France, one of my recommended places to visit in France
Alabaster Coast at Étretat. Aval cliff. Normandy, France.

But our favorite of the two museums we visited in Honfleur is the entrancingly eccentric Maisons Satie. Housed in the birthplace of the composer and darling of the Dadaists, Erik Satie (1866-1925), the museum takes you on an interactive tour of Satie’s music.

Armed with an audio guide, you prowl through dark rooms and activate various musical themes from Satie’s work. It’s a playhouse for music-loving grownups that puts the q in quirky.

If you love Satie’s music (Gymnopedies and Gnossienne are his most famous works), then don’t miss this wacky, wonderful museum.

Getting to Honfleur

Map showing location of Honfleur northwest of Paris
Location of Honfleur northwest of Paris

Honfleur is about a two-hour drive northwest of Paris. The Normandy coast from Honfleur in the northeast to Mont St. Michel in the southwest on the border with Brittany is worth a good long stay.

In addition to Étretat, two other highlights of this fascinating section of coastline are the D-Day beaches and Bayeux. Both places witnessed invasions, a millennium apart.

D-Day Beaches in Normandy Near Honfleur

At the D-Day beaches, I was struck by the spectacular beauty of this stretch of coastline. That it was the scene of so much death and destruction in 1944 is sobering. We visited the marvelous museum and memorial at Juno Beach where the Canadians landed. The Caen Memorial Museum near Caen south of the beaches is also worth a visit.

You can take a guided tour of the area from Paris.

Omaha Beach in Normandy
Omaha Beach
Portion of the Bayeux tapestry showing Edward the Confessor who is looking a trifle bemused
Portion of the Bayeux tapestry showing Edward the Confessor who is looking a trifle bemused

Bayeux Tapestry

A millennium earlier, the French went in the opposite direction to invade England. At Bayeux, you can see the Bayeux tapestry that documents the invasion. The audio guide presentation of the tapestry is excellent–a definite must-see.

For more detailed information about recommended places to see in Normandy, check out Top Normandy Sights for Art & History Lovers.

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Honfleur

Honfleur makes a good home base for a few days while you tour the area. We stayed at the Hôtel L’Ecrin, a lovely old mansion house set in beautiful gardens that included a pool. Free parking was a bonus as was the location of the hotel, an easy stroll to the harbor.

Check the map below for other accommodation options in the area.

Booking.com

For more about traveling around and enjoying Normandy, see my post Top Normandy Sights to Excite Art & History Lovers.


#2: Côte de Granit Rose, Brittany

Gregg and I have visited the spectacular Côte de Granit Rose twice and hope to return. Thanks to its many plages (beaches), the area is a popular destination in the summer for French families. But the area doesn’t feel touristy or crowded.

What is Special About the Côte de Granit Rose as a Place to Visit in France?

The thirty-kilometer stretch of pink granite rocks twisted into fantastic shapes is considered one of the most outstanding coastlines in Europe. The marriage of pink rocks with turquoise ocean has inspired many artists, notably the French surrealist artist Yves Tanguy (1900-1955).

The Côte de Granit Rose in northern Brittany is a delight for the senses.

This area is perfect for walking and hiking. In fact, you can walk the sentier de douaniers, a former coastguard footpath, from Perros-Guirec via Ploumanac’h to Trégastel Plage. You’ll pass rocks that make you think of slabs of pink-tinted fudge huddled around invitingly sandy coves perfect for paddling in.

The last time we were in the area, a violent windstorm reminded us how nature is her own best artist, using wind and water to sculpt the rocks into such fantastic shapes.

Getting to the Côte de Granit Rose

Map showing the 30-kilometer stretch of coastline between Perros-Guirec and Tregastel is known as the Côte de Granit Rose.
The 30-kilometer stretch of coastline between Perros-Guirec and Trégastel is known as the Côte de Granit Rose.

You need a car to tour this area of northern Brittany. Consider allocating a week to enjoy two or three areas in Brittany–perhaps two nights in the Côte de Granit Rose, two nights farther west in Crozon in the Parc Naturel Regional d’Armorique, and then two nights farther south near Carnac.

View of Pointe de Pen-Hir on the Crozon peninsula in Brittany.
For even more amazing coastline, go farther west to the Pointe de Pen-Hir on the Crozon peninsula in Brittany.

But even a week isn’t long enough. You could easily spend two weeks!

In Brittany, driving is slow along small country roads, and Brittany itself is surprisingly large and varied. Take your time to explore both the northern and the western/southern coasts of this spectacular peninsula.

Did you know that in Brittany, people consider themselves Bretons first, French second? You will occasionally see signs written in Breton–a language related to the Celtic languages of the British isles. After all, Brittany is not far from Cornwall in England.

Practical Tips for Your Visit to the Côte de Granit Rose

We always found delightful small hotels in Brittany. Another option is to rent a house for an extended stay. And while you’re in Brittany, make sure you sample plenty of galettes–the Breton crepes.

Towns to stay at in the area include Trégastel, Perros-Guirec, and Saint-Guirec.

Booking.com

#3: Gavrinis, Gulf of Morbihan, Brittany

Known as the island of ancient stones, tiny Gavrinis is located in the Gulf of Morbihan, renowned as one of the largest and most beautiful bodies of water in France.

In an area brimming with ancient burial sites, stone alignments, and other Neolithic sites, the burial chamber at Gavrinis is considered one of the most interesting.

What is Special about Gavrinis as a Place to Visit in France?

The Neolithic structure on the island of Gavrinis consists of a tumulus (earth mound) that covers a cairn (stone mound) that in turn covers a dolmen within which is the stone burial chamber. We were told that at Winter Solstice, the sun shines down the passageway and hits the back wall.

How did Neolithic people figure out how to do that? I haven’t a clue, but I love visiting neolithic sites, like Carnac in Brittany and of course, the big kahuna, Stonehenge in England, to try and find out.

What makes Gavrinis unique are the swirling patterns and symbols cut deep into 23 of the 29 rock slabs that form the 24-meter passageway leading to the burial chamber. The designs were cut into the stone over 5,500 years ago (3,500 BC) by some very artistic and amazing people.

Gavrinis passage, replica.Musée de Bougon

[CC BY-SA 4.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)]–Gavrinis passage. Replica in the “Musée des tumulus de Bougon” (Deux-Sèvres), France.

Who were they and why did they make the carvings? You’ll find out on the 90-minute guided tour (including the boat trip) required to view the burial chamber.

The carved patterns are startling in their modernity—zigzag lines, swirls, lozenges, and circles. Some of the shapes appear to be non-abstract objects, such as axes and horns.

Getting To Gavrinis

Gavrinis is located in the Gulf of Morbihan in the southern area of Brittany in western France – Map data @ 2019 Google

The island is accessible by a guided tour from the small town of Larmor-Baden. The boat trip across the sparkling waters of the Gulf of Morbihan makes the 90-minute tour especially enjoyable.

Boat trip across the Gulf of Morbihan to the island of Gavrinis , one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France.
Boat trip across the Gulf of Morbihan to the island of Gavrinis

Check the Brittany Tourism site for more information about touring Gavrinis.

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Gavrinis

The Gulf of Morbihan area is worth several days of your time so you can explore dozens more Neolithic sites and enjoy the marine scenery.

The island of Gavrinis is uninhabited and the village of Larmor-Baden where you catch the boat to tour Gavrinis doesn’t have much in the way of accommodations. However, you’ll find plenty of small, family-run hotels in the area. Zoom out the map below to find some options.

Booking.com

#4: Chenonceau, Loire Valley

The Loire Valley is famous for its beauty, its wine, and its châteaux. It’s definitely a must-visit place in France! Even if you don’t have a week to explore, consider taking a day trip from Paris to at least see the highlights.

Back in the days before the French Revolution, kings and dukes and marquises and your basic blue-blood types built their summer cottages in the Loire Valley.

Chateau de Chenonceau is a french castle spanning the River Cher near Chenonceaux village, Loire valley in France. It's one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France.
Château de Chenonceau is a French castle spanning the River Cher near Chenonceaux village, Loire valley in France

Okay, cottages is maybe a bit of a misnomer. The number, variety, size, and awesomeness of the châteaux in the Loire is astonishing. You won’t run out of architectural wonders to gawk at, ornamental gardens to wander through, and history to learn.

What is Special about Chenonceau as a Place to Visit in France?

The Château de Chenonceau is my favorite Loire Valley château.

A series of graceful arches supports the château across the river Cher. In World War II, Vichy France was on one side of the river and Free France was on the other. I wonder how many people used the château to escape to freedom.

The first château dated from the 12th and 13th centuries, of which only the dungeon remains: the Tour des Marques. The château in its current form was built between 1513 and 1517.

Women have played an outsized role in the development of Chenonceau. Henry II gave the château to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers, who, shortly after his death, was kicked out by his wife, Queen Catherine d’Medici. Catherine managed the Kingdom of France from her study, the Green Cabinet at Chenonceau.

In the 18th century, Louise Dupin, an exceptional woman who drafted a Code of Women’s Rights, entertained some of the biggest names of the Age of Enlightenment at Chenonceau.

During your visit through the sumptuous rooms, you’ll learn all about these remarkable women and a lot more. Also visit the formal gardens and imagine yourself in Renaissance dress taking your morning constitutional. There is even a maze!

If you had money back in those days, you sure had it made.

Getting to Chenonceau

Chenonceau is located on the Cher river 214 km west of Paris and 34 km east of Tours. If you don’t have time to stay in the Loire Valley, consider taking a tour from Paris. Here are some options.

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Chenonceau

Spend several days in the Loire Valley so you can visit more than one château, but limit yourself to two a day, at most. Château-visiting gets tiring after a while. Less is more.

To minimize driving, spend two or three days around Tours near Chenonceau and then another two or three days closer to Blois. You won’t run out of places to visit.

Another highlight of a visit to the Loire Valley and the area around Chenonceau is the opportunity to sample excellent wine and food. Of course, that’s true pretty much anywhere in France, but the Loire Valley is particularly blessed.

Zoom out the map below to find accommodation options in the Loire Valley.



Booking.com

For more information about visiting Chenonceau, check the website.


#5: Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil, Dordogne, Aquitaine

I chose Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil (Les Eyzies for short) because it’s smack in the middle of some of the Dordogne’s most compelling prehistory attractions.

Houses in the town of Les Eyzies, Dordogne, France under the shadow of overhanging limestone cliffs. It's one of my recommended places to visit in France.
Houses in the town of Les Eyzies, Dordogne, France under the shadow of overhanging limestone cliffs

Gregg and I are suckers for prehistory–cave paintings, dolmens, megalithic monuments, archeological museums, the lot. If it’s really old, we like it. And if you are also that way inclined, head for this area of the Dordogne around Les Eyzies.

What is Special about Les Eyzies as a Place to Visit in France?

It’s small and charming and is the location of the wonderful Musée National de Préhistoire. Start your exploration here to discover the rich paleolithic heritage of the Vézère Valley, also known as the European “Valley of Man.”

Statue of an early human outside the Musée National de Prehistoire in Les Eyzies
Musée National de Préhistoire in Les Eyzies

Not far from Les Eyzies is the Grotte de Font-de-Gaume where you can view over 800 engravings and drawings of prehistoric horses, bison, aurochs, lions, reindeer, and more.

The Font-de-Gaume is one of the few extensive prehistoric caves still open to the public. Check online for information and to buy tickets. Admission is limited so make sure you buy your tickets well in advance of your visit.

A virtual tour of the cave is also available.

You’ll find many more prehistoric sites in the area. Stay a few days around Les Eyzies and then drive about thirty minutes north to Montignac to visit Lascaux II. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit there and recommend it to anyone interested in prehistoric cave painting.

Yes, Lascaux II is a replica of 90% of the paintings found in the original cave, but it is still awe-inspiring. You must take the 40-minute guided tour. Check the website for information.

Getting to Les Eyzies

Les Eyzies is a two-hour drive east of Bordeaux in the Aquitaine region of southwest France. Consider staying for several days in the area. In addition to exploring prehistoric sites, châteaux. and super-charming villages, you will find many great restaurants.

We had one of the best meals we’ve enjoyed in France (and that’s saying something) at a restaurant overlooking a sleepy canal not far from Les Eyzies.

Carol Cram enjoying dinner next to a canal in the Dordogne
Dinner next to a canal in the Dordogne
Presentation of L'Escargots at a nice restaurant in France
L’Escargots

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Les Eyzies

You’ll find plenty of charming family-run places in the area. On one trip, we stayed in the tiny village of Thonac about halfway between Motignanc and Les Eyzies. The place was on the Vézère River, which we spent an afternoon canoeing down. Heavenly.

Zoom to see accommodation options in the Dordogne.



Booking.com


#6: Albi, Midi-Pyrénées

Albi in southwest France is a charmingly walkable city with a wonderful red brick cathedral and the world-class Musée Toulouse-Lautrec. If you’re on your way to the Pyrénées, take a day out for Albi.

What is Special about Albi as a Place to Visit in France?

It’s just so darned pretty with its red bricks glowing in the evening light, good restaurants, panoramas over the River Tarn, and laid-back atmosphere.

I also like that it’s steeped in the history of the Cathars–the enlightened sect that practiced a form of proto-Protestantism and refused to recognize the authority of the Catholic church. That didn’t go down too well with the Church (no surprise there) and led to the Cathars being cruelly wiped out in the Albigensian Crusade (1209-1229).

Dominating the ridge above the Tarn River, the cathedral was built a few decades after the conflict and looks more like a fortress than a church. It’s the only large gothic cathedral built out of bricks (pink ones at that) rather than stone.

Here’s a view of the cathedral from our bed-and-breakfast across the river.

Cathedral at Albi seen from across the River Tarn; Albi is one of my recommended places to visit in France
Cathedral in Albi

In addition to the cathedral, the big attraction in Albi is the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec located in the also-pink-bricked medieval Palais de la Berbie next to the cathedral.

I include the museum in my post about Seven Super Single-Artist Museums in Europe.

Getting to Albi

Albi is located 85 km northeast of Toulouse. I recommend staying the night so you can wander around the narrow cobbled streets in the evening and watch the sun as it sets over the cathedral.

Map showing the location of Albi
Map showing the location of Albi in southwest France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Albi

Albi makes a good stop either on your way east from the Dordogne or on your way west toward the Pyrenees and Spain. It’s far enough off the beaten track to retain its provincial feel while still maintaining good tourist services.

Zoom to find accommodation options in Albi.



Booking.com


#7: Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux, Milau, Midi-Pyrénées 

If you like weird rock formations, you must pay a visit to the Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux. Situated in the heart of the Grand Causses Regional Natural Park about 15 km from Milau and south of the Ardeche area of southwest France, the Chaos is far off the beaten path. You’ll need to plan a special trip.

Panorama at the Chaos of Montepllier le Vieux, one of my recommended places to visit in France
Panorama at the Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux
Photo Credit: La Cité de Pierres

What is Special about Chaos of Montpellier- le-Vieux as a Place to Visit in France?

The Chaos is nature’s art gallery–a maze of canyons bristling with tortured limestone formations. You’ll find over 30 natural works of art, the result of centuries of erosion, with fanciful names such as The Great Sphinx, L’Arc de Triomphe, The Crocodile, The Cathedral, and the Chair of the Devil.

The most accessible rock formations are contained within a 120-hectare area called La Cité de Pierres. On the website, you’ll find information and pictures about the geology, the 30 natural works of “roc-Art”, the 12 rock shelters showing evidence of human habitation from the Neolithic period to the Middle Ages, and some beautiful panoramas.

Getting to Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux

It’s pretty remote! We visited while enroute from the city of Montpellier on the Mediterranean northwest toward Albi.

Map showing the location of the Chaos de Montpellier-le-Vieux in southwest France
Map showing the location of the Chaos de Montpellier-le-Vieux in southwest France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux

The area is rugged with some of the most precipitous roads we’ve ever driven in Europe. Leave yourself plenty of time and consider staying the night in Milau.



Booking.com


#8: Camargue, Provence

South of Arles and bordering on the Mediterranean Sea is Europe’s largest river delta–the vast, flat, and wildlife-teeming Camargue. Every time we visit, we declare that we really need to stay longer to explore the lakes and marshlands.

The Parc naturel régional de Camargue protects the area and provides visitors with facilities such as observation towers, information boards, themed trails, and guided tours.

What is Special about the Camargue as a Place to Visit in France?

The wild and flat scenery is beautiful, but for me the big attraction of the Camargue is its wildlife–horses, bulls, and especially flamingos. I don’t know why, but it feels very exotic to come across flocks of flamingos in Europe. Even from the road, you can see them standing serenely in the marshes, looking pink and delightful. If you’re into birds, the Camargue is a must-see with more than 400 species of birds.

Pink flamingos in the Camargue, one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France
Pink flamingos in the Camargue

On one trip to the beach, we were surprised to look across the marsh from where we’d parked the car and see several very large, very horned grazing bulls. We stayed clear! Shortly after seeing the bulls, Gregg dove into a foot of water (he thought it was deeper) and smacked his head on the sea bottom. Fortunately, it was sand, but the bruise persisted for many days!

Black Camarguais bulls in swamp, southern France
Black Camarguais bulls in swamp, southern France

And of course, if you’re lucky, you’ll see the famous Camargue horses galloping freely, white manes flowing. Riding stables are scattered throughout the area if you harbor fantasies of riding a horse along the beach. Here’s a TripAdvisor list of horseback riding tours accessible from Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer.

White Camargue Horses running free
White Camargue horses running free

Getting to the Camargue

The Camargue is located between Montpellier in the west and Marseille in the east. Drive south from Arles and you’re in the Camargue.

Map showing the location of the Parc naturel régional de Camargue
Map showing the location of the Parc naturel régional de Camargue west of Marseille

A good strategy for exploring the area in a few days is to home base in either Arles or Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer. We like both places for different reasons. Arles has the Roman arena and, of course, its association with Vincent van Gogh. With its winding streets, good shopping, and outdoor cafes, it’s a very pleasant town to spend time in.

Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer is, as its name suggests, on the Mediterranean Sea. Bristling with boats, cute shops, and cafes, the town is well worth a visit. When we were last there, it was mid-springtime, and the place was virtually deserted.

Carol Cram on the beach near Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer, one of my recommended places to visit in France,
On the beach near Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer

Practical Tips for Your Visit to the Camargue

Two words: mosquito repellent! We got caught without any while taking a stroll through the Camargue wetlands in mid-summer and oh, dear. It was not pretty. I tried counting how many mosquito bites I got and had to give up.

We discovered a brand of mosquito repellent in France called Le Camargue. That tells you something.

Below are accommodation options in the area.



Booking.com


#9: Carrières de Lumières, Les Baux-de-Provence

This relatively new attraction in a quarry near Les Baux-de-Provence brings you up close and personal with massive projections of artworks, particularly the art of Vincent van Gogh. Managed by CultureSpaces, the exhibition is a “digital immersive experience.”

Van Gogh Experience at Carrières de Lumières
Van Gogh Experience at Carrières de Lumières

We visited in June 2019 and saw two “experiences”: Van Gogh and Japanese Prints. Both ran about 30 minutes and were accompanied by music.

What is Special about Carrières de Lumières as a Place to Visit in France?

Digital immersive experiences are definitely becoming a thing. The CultureSpaces website list three digital art centres in France: The Carrières de Lumières in Les-Baux-de-Provence, the Atelier des Lumières in Paris, and the Bassins de Lumières in Bordeaux.

In the enormous interior space that was once a rock quarry, artworks are projected and duplicated. You are literally walking into the art. The experience is truly remarkable.

Here’s a video I took of the van Gogh performance when the sunflower paintings were being projected. The venue is dark, but you can get some idea of the scale of the projections.

Getting to Carrières de Lumières

The Carrières de Lumières is located 800 m from the Château des Baux-de-Provence, 15 km north-east of Arles and 30 km south of Avignon.

Map showing location of Carrières de Lumières near Les-Baux-de-Provence
Map showing the location of Carrières de Lumières near Les-Baux-de-Provence

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Carrières de Lumières

Purchase your tickets in advance. Admission to the Carrières is strictly
limited so if you don’t have advance tickets, you may be out of luck. Parking
near the venue is also very limited. Check the website for details.

Once you’ve toured the Carrières de Lumières, spend some time exploring
Les Baux-de-Provence, preferably in the late afternoon or early evening when the bus tours have pulled out. From the ramparts at the top of the village, you get a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside.

Each time we’ve stayed near Les Baux-de-Provence, we’ve found wonderful
rural properties with pools. Here’s a video I shot on the grounds of the Domaine du Mas Foucray situated near the small town of Maussane-les-Alpilles and within sight of Les-Baux-de-Provence. Billed as an aparthotel, our one-bedroom suite included a kitchen and sitting area and a private terrace. In early July when we were there, we picked fresh apricots off the trees.

For more options, see the map below.



Booking.com


#10: Roussillon, Luberon, Provence

Roussillon has been a family favorite since we first discovered it 25 years ago. The red and ocher walls of the village houses distinguish it from other villages in the Luberon area.

The village itself is truly lovely in an area full of lovely villages, including Bonnieux, Ménerbes and Gordes. Pick any village in the Luberon and settle in for several days.

Colorful houses in the village of Roussillon. one of my recommended places to visit in France
Colorful houses in the village of Roussillon

What is Special about Roussillon as a Place to Visit in France ?

What really distinguishes Roussillon are the ochre cliffs situated about 200 meters from the entrance to the village. Trails that make up the Le Sentier des Ocres wind through this magical area where the vivid oranges, yellows and reds of the ochre cliffs contrast with the green trees and brilliant blue Provençal sky.

Ochre landscape at Roussillon in Provence, France, one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France
Ochre landscape at Roussillon in Provence, France

When you arrive in Roussillon, leave your car in the main parking area and walk to where Le Sentier des Ocres starts. Visit Roussillon late in the day, say, about an hour before the quarry closes. Then you can enjoy it relatively crowd-free and take spectacular photographs of the ochre cliffs in the afternoon sun. After your stroll through the quarry, wander around the village and have dinner at one of the local restaurants.

Several shops sell locally produced ceramics (I have a piece on my desk as I write) and other Provence-themed products. End the day by dining at one of the many restaurants in the village. Most have terraces and beautiful views.

Carol Cram at the Le Sentier des Ocres near Roussillon
At the Le Sentier des Ocres near Roussillon

Getting to Roussillon

Roussillon is about an hour’s drive east of Avignon. The main villages–Gordes, Ménerbes, and Bonnieux– are close by. You need a car to enjoy the area.

Map showing the location of Roussillon in the Luberon region of Provence
Map showing the location of Roussillon in the Luberon region of Provence

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Roussillon

Here are two highly recommended hotels in the Luberon, one in Roussillon and one in Gordes.

Les Sables d’Ocre – A 15-minute walk from the village of Roussillon, this place sets the bar for what a country-style, family-run, low-key, easy-on-the-budget place should be. Book a room that includes a terrace. You’ll have your own private outdoor space and be steps from the pool.

Domaine de l’Enclos – This place close to Gordes–one of the most beautiful hill towns in the area–is wonderful. We snagged a room with a terrace which Gregg made use of to do some drawing. The views from the garden over the Luberon are spectacular.

For more accommodation options, check the map below.



Booking.com


#11: Château La Coste, Aix-en-Provence

On a beautiful May day in 2018, we drove into the hills behind Aix-en-Provence with no particular destination in mind. The day was gorgeous–fluffy white clouds, not too hot, fresh breeze. Perfection!

We hoped to stumble across a nice side-of-the-road restaurant to enjoy a hearty Provençal lunch, preferably overlooking the landscape that had inspired Cézanne.

Rounding a bend in the twisty secondary road, I saw a sign to Château La Coste. I didn’t know anything about the place, but in the vague hope that it would have a café attached to it, I told Gregg to turn left and follow the signs.

And so we discovered lovely and luscious Château La Coste with its gourmet lunch and, best of all, its several hectares of modern outdoor sculptures.

What is Special about Château La Coste as a Place to Visit in France?

Château La Coste is a vineyard that also features a fabulous art walk populated with modern sculpture. Artists and architects from around the world were invited to visit the domaine and choose a place in the landscape on which to create a sculpture or installation.

The resulting Art Walk is an eclectic array of pieces, many which move with the wind and can be pushed, sat upon, and walked through. The Art Walk is extensive and includes hills, so put on your walking shoes and bring water.

Here’s a selection of pieces we explored.

Gregg walking through a colorful sculpture
Gregg walking through a colorful sculpture
Sculpture by Calder at the entrance to the Chateau la Coste, one of my recommended places to visit in France
Sculpture by Calder at the entrance to the Château La Coste
Sculpture in front of the glorious Provence landscape at Chateau la Coste
Sculpture in front of the glorious Provence landscape at Château La Coste

Getting to Château La Coste

Château La Coste is about 15 km north of Aix-en-Provence along a beautiful winding secondary road with gorgeous views over the countryside. Drop in for lunch (the food was fabulous!), pick up a few bottles of wine, and do the Art Walk. You can easily spend an entire afternoon there.

Map showing the location of Château La Coste north of Aix-en-Provence
Map showing the location of Château La Coste north of Aix-en-Provence

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Château La Coste

You can go all out and spend a night (or three) at the Villa La Coste, billed as a luxury hotel and spa. It’s way out of our price range, but wow – it looks amazing!

Here are other options in the area.



Booking.com


#12: Seillans, Var, Provence

When you drive into Seillans, a hill town in the Var region of Provence, you are greeted by a sign announcing Seillans as among the Plus Beaux Villages de France; that is, one of the most beautiful villages in France.

You see these signs all over France at the entrance to villages. On the official website, 159 villages are currently listed. Follow the link above to view them. The website is in French, but the site includes plenty of pictures and maps.


What is Special about Seillans as a Place to Visit in France?

We don’t love Seillans because it’s beautiful (and it really is). We love it because of its association with Gregg’s favorite surrealist artist—Max Ernst.

From 1964 until his death in 1976, Max Ernst lived in Seillans with his wife, Dorothea Tanning, another noted surrealist artist. View a selection of their lithographs at the Seillans tourist office located in the main square about 100 meters from the parking area.

Large black-and-white photographs of Ernst are posted on the stone wall lining the cobbled street leading down to the square.

Max Ernst and Gregg  just before Gregg hangs an exhibition of his paintings in Seillans
Max Ernst and Gregg, just before Gregg hangs an exhibition of his paintings in Seillans

Just past the square is the exhibition space—the Salle du Couvent (a former convent) in which Gregg has twice exhibited his work, most recently in June, 2019.

We spent two weeks in Seillans. While Gregg chatted with visitors to his exhibition, I wandered around Seillans, snapping pictures and communing with the ghosts of the centuries of humanity who made Seillans home.

Seillans was likely founded around 500 BC by the Saillens, a Celtic-Ligurian tribe. The village grew slowly with one of the oldest surviving structures, the castle from the 11th century, located at the top of the village.

You can only explore Seillans by foot. Drive up the steep road leading from the lower entrance to the village as far as you can go, then leave your car in the large and shady parking lot. From there, walk into the village to explore its quaint and shady streets.

Read more about The Fortified Hilltop Village of Seillans in the Var, Provence.


Getting To Seillans

Seillans is about a 30-minute drive from the A8 motorway that connects the Riviera with Aix-en-Provence, Marseille, and western France. You can choose to exit the motorway at two places. Coming from the west (Aix-en-Provence or Marseille), take Exit 36 and drive north toward Callas. You’ll pass gorgeous wineries sprawling across the rolling countryside.

Vineyards in the Var region of southern France, an area that is one of my fave places to visit in France
Vineyards in the Var region of southern France

Coming from the east (Nice or Cannes), take Exit 39 and drive alongside the stunning Lac de Saint-Cassien that is actually reservoir and accessible at several points for water sports.

Map showing the location of Seillans in the Var region of Provence in southern France about an hour drive from Nice
Map showing the location of Seillans in the Var region of Provence in southern France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Seillans

Seillans is one of several appealing villages in the Var region of Provence. The region is perfect for a one-week stay to fully immerse yourself in the heat and beauty of this relatively under-touristed area. You are only about an hour from the glitz and galleries of the Cote d’Azur; about 40 minutes due south are Sainte-Raphael and Frejus where you can swim in the Mediterranean.

Overlooking the Mediterranean from Cap Esterel about 40 minutes south of Seillans, one of my recommended places to visit in France
Overlooking the Mediterranean from Cap Esterel about 40 minutes south of Seillans

And if you go to Seillans even for a short visit, stay overnight in the area and have dinner at one of Seillans’ wonderful small restaurants. We enjoyed a marvelous meal at Chez Hugo which perches on the edge of Seillans overlooking the bucolic Var countryside.

You’ll find small B&B’s in the area along with several homestay options. We rented a house for two weeks through HomeAway. The house was about a 30-minute walk to the village of Seillans along a lovely country road.

To find other accommodation options in the area, zoom out on the map below.

Booking.com

#13: Vence, Côte d’Azur

Over the years, we’ve stayed in a few towns in the hills above Cannes and Nice in the Côte d’Azur. Our favorite is still Vence. It’s big enough to feel like a real town and old and quaint enough to be enjoyable to stroll around.

Whenever we fantasize about living in the south of France, we inevitably agree that Vence would be the perfect location.

What is Special about Vence as a Place to Visit in France?

The town itself is the attraction. Perched high above the Mediterranean Sea, it feels a world away from the glitz and bustle of cities like Canne and Nice. The pedestrian-only medieval streets are quiet and relatively crowd-free, certainly compared to the towns bordering the sea.

Enjoy lunch or dinner in a café, do some shopping, and take in an art exhibition

A highlight of a trip to Vence is touring the Chapelle du Rosaire de Vence, otherwise known as the Matisse Chapel. The stained glass and murals are spare and modern. Matisse himself considered the chapel his masterpiece.

Getting to Vence

You need a car to really enjoy Vence and the surrounding areas. Drive farther north up the Col de Vence to enjoy stunning views of the countryside and the Mediterranean. Also visit Saint-Paul-de-Vence a few kilometers south. The Fondation Maeght is the big attraction there. Read about it in Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe.

Map showing the location of Vence between Cannes and Nice
Map showing the location of Vence between Cannes and Nice

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Vence

In all the years we’ve been visiting the area, we’ve never not found great, family-run hotels to stay in. Here are some options.



Booking.com


#14: Monte Carlo, Côte d’Azur

The last time we visited Monte Carlo (which I know is technically not in France), we did so by mistake. The house we’d rented way up in the hills above Monaco turned out to not be available when we arrived, and we were obliged to find alternative accommodations.

We rolled down the very steep hills to the Mediterranean and for three nights stayed right on the harbor in Monte Carlo. To Gregg’s delight, our hotel overlooked not only the boats in the harbor but also part of the route of the Monaco Grand Prix. Preparations were underway for the 2018 race while we were there.

Our splurgeworthy 4-star hotel room would shoot from a relatively affordable 200 euros per night to 2000 euros per night on race days!

Harbor at Monte Carlo in Monaco
Harbor at Monte Carlo in Monaco

What is Special about Monte Carlo as a Place to Visit in France?

I never expected to like Monte Carlo so much. I’d visited before but only for a short time–just long enough to see where the casino was but not to go in since we were traveling with Julia.

Monte Carlo and Monaco (they kind of blend together) are compact and easy to walk around. Stay for a few days and just wander the narrow streets and quiet squares. Monaco’s old town up on a bluff overlooking the harbor includes the palace and plenty of charming little streets to get lost in.

Carol Cram overlooking an interior harbor near the old town in Monaco
Overlooking an interior harbor near the old town in Monaco

A highlight for us was the car museum, especially for Gregg who is a racing car enthusiast. While in Monte Carlo, he completed this piece as a homage to the Monaco Grand Prix.

Colorful abstract drawing called Straightaway by Gregg Simpson
Straightaway by Gregg Simpson

Getting to Monte Carlo

The area around Monaco is very, very tight. If you don’t have to drive, take the train from Nice. If you’re driving, get to your hotel, park the car, and then walk. On one of our days in Monte Carlo, we caught the train to Menton to visit friends, a much easier way to travel. The traffic on the Côte d’Azur is pretty much always dreadful.

Map showing the location of Monte Carlo and Monaco
Map showing the location of Monte Carlo and Monaco

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Monte Carlo

We stayed in the fabulous Port Palace Hotel right on the harbor. It was a splurge but worth every penny. The staff were friendly and the room huge, with a view over the boats. Here are other options.



Booking.com


#15: Palais Idéal, Hauterives

In 1879, a postman named Ferdinand Cheval picked up a stone while on his rounds and over the next 33 years built a fantasy structure that can only be described as surreal. In fact, the surrealists led by André Breton consider postman Cheval’s Palais Idéal as the precursor of surrealistic architecture. Breton, along with other artists, including Max Ernst and Léonara Carington, visited and wrote about the Palais Idéal several times.

Palais Ideal Source: Wikipedia
Palais Idéal – Source: Wikipedia

The Palais Idéal is also considered a premier example of Naïve art. Ferdinand Cheval, who had no training in art or architecture, is recognized as a pioneer of Naïve art.

The Palais Idéal may be off the beaten track for many tourists, but it is well known to French people. In fact, the day we visited, I wouldn’t be surprised if we were the only English speakers there. It was mobbed by French families eagerly enjoying the quirky melange of cement and rock.

What is Special about Palais Idéal as a Place to Visit in France?

The Palais Idéal is quite simply remarkable. It looks like a cross between Angkor Wat and a strangely ornate wedding cake. You really have to see it and wander through its passageways to admire the incredible details.

You are awestruck by Cheval’s dedication and imagination. If you’re feeling at all cynical about the power of one person’s commitment to fulfilling a dream, visit the Palais Idéal and have your faith in human ingenuity restored.

Getting to Palais Idéal

The Palais Idéal is located about an hour south of Lyon in the village of Hauterives in the Drôme Department of southeast France. Combine a trip to Palais Idéal with a drive through this beautiful area west of the Alps.

Map showing the location of the Palais Ideal
Map showing the location of the Palais Idéal in the Drôme Department of southeast France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Palais Idéal

Check the Palais Idéal website for detailed information about ticket prices and location.

Here are accommodation options in the area of Hauterives.



Booking.com


#16: Strasbourg

The city of Strasbourg is not really off the beaten track, but I include it because for us it was a surprise. The Petite France area is utterly charming, with its waterside cafés and Alsatian architecture.

As the chief city of Alsace and a major business center, Strasbourg is also the seat of a number of the European Parliament, the Council of Europe, and the European Court of Human Rights. It’s a hopping place.

What is Special about Strasbourg as a Place to Visit in France?

Strasbourg is the center of Alsatian culture–a unique combination of French and German reflecting a 2000-year history during which custody of Strasbourg frequently changed. The city is also drop-dead gorgeous, with its maze of narrow streets and a melange of architectural styles, including the distinctive half-timbered houses, lining the canals in the Petite France area.

Strasbourg la Petite France in Alsace half timbered houses
Half-timbered houses in Strasbourg, la Petite France in Alsace

The center of Strasbourg is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Another great attraction of Strasbourg is, predictably, the food! Alsatian cuisine is a unique and hearty combination of French and German, all accompanied with glasses of wine. Strasbourg is close to the Alsatian Wine Trail known for producing Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, and Riesling wines.

Also don’t miss Strasbourg Cathedral with its ornate Gothic facade framing a delicately stunning rose window.

Strasbourg Cathedral at sunrise, France
Strasbourg Cathedral at sunrise

Getting to Strasbourg

If you’re coming from or going to Germany, stop a day or two in Strasbourg.

Map showing the location of Strasbourg, France
Map showing the location of Strasbourg in Alsace in northeast France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Strasbourg

Strasbourg’s status as the location for the European Parliament means that it’s very well served by transportation, including an international airport and a TGV train that whisks you to Paris in under two hours.

Here are accommodation options.



Booking.com


#17: Fontainebleau Forest

The Forêt de Fontainebleau is an easy day trip from Paris, but do yourself a favor and settle in for at least one or two nights. That way, you’ll have time to explore both the Château of Fontainebleau and the vast forest, once the hunting grounds of the kings of France and the second-largest national forest in France.

View on the palace of Fontainebleau with White Horse court
View of the palace of Fontainebleau with White Horse Court

Kilometers of trails criss-cross the forest, taking you past sunlit glades and strange rock formations, many resembling animals, such as elephants, tortoises, and crocodiles.

What is Special about Fontainebleau Forest as a Place to Visit in France?

The Forêt de Fontainebleau has been a mecca for artists since the 19th century when it was the headquarters for the Barbizon group of painters. Gregg was in good company when he created his own series of paintings inspired by the strangely evocative forest. Here are two of his large canvases completed after our first visit to Fontainebleau.

Large landscape painting called The Clearing by Gregg Simpson
66The Clearing by Gregg Simpson
Large landscape painting called Impressions of the Fontainebleau Forest  by Gregg Simpson
Impressions of the Fontainebleau Forest by Gregg Simpson

In addition to spending time in the forest, you can’t miss the Palace at Fontainebleau. We were fortunate to visit it just after it opened in the morning and so were the first people to walk through its sumptuous rooms.

I enjoyed our visit to the palace much more than Versailles, which is overcrowded and overpriced. I’m not suggesting you give Versailles a miss—it’s definitely worth seeing. However, if you have time for only one day trip from Paris and you want to see a royal palace, consider the much less touristy, more authentic-feeling Palais de Fontainebleau.

Getting to Fontainebleau Forest

The last time we visited Fontainebleau, we took a train from the Gare de Lyon train station in Paris and then picked up our rental car near the train station at our destination. It’s much less stressful to pick up a rental car in a small town like Fontainebleau than in the middle of Paris (I don’t recommend doing that!).

After spending a day tootling around the forest, we headed south to begin our trip around France.

Allow forty minutes to take the train or drive from Paris to Fontainebleau.

Map showing the loation of Fontainebleau south of Paris
Map showing the location of Fontainebleau south of Paris

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Fontainebleau Forest

The charming town of Fontainebleau contains several of the type of small hotels we favor when traveling in France. Check options on the map below.



Booking.com


France Guides

Click the image below to discover lots more things to see and do in wonderful France.

Conclusion

Whew! That’s a lot of France! I hope you’ve discovered some new places to visit and re-acquainted yourself with some old favorites.

One of the many things I love about France is how incredibly diverse it is–from the rugged pink granite cliffs in Brittany to the pastoral, château-studded Loire Valley and south through the history-steeped Dordogne, the wild and wonderful chasms of the Cevennes and Ardeche, the rugged beauty of Provence and then back north alongside the Alps to the Germanic flavor of the Alsace, and finally to get royal in Fontainebleau.

I could easily write a post about another 17 awesome places, but these will do for now!

Have you visited any of the places featured in this post? Let other artsy travelers know about your experiences in the comments below.

Here are some more posts to read next to help you plan and enjoy your time in France:

Seven Super Single-Artist Museums in Europe You Should Visit

One of the great joys of traveling in Europe as an Artsy Traveler is discovering amazing single-artist museums.

By single-artist museum, I mean a museum established to showcase the art of a specific artist, even if the museum also hosts exhibitions by other artists.

Europe is awash with great single-artist museums, many of which I’ve written about in other posts on Artsy Traveler, most notably Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris.

This post recommends lesser known single-artist museums in Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, and Spain. I’ve visited all of them, with the exception of the Sorolla Museum in Madrid. Information about this luscious, single-artist museum comes from guest poster Liz Reding who visited the Sorolla Museum in March of 2020, just days before the pandemic shut down Europe.

Map of Europe Showing Museum Locations

The number assigned to each museum in this post corresponds to the number on the map below. For example #1, the Ernst Fuchs Museum is in Vienna (#1 on the map below).

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

#1 Ernst Fuchs Museum in Vienna, Austria

Start in Austria with one of Europe’s weirdest single-artist museums!

If you’re in the mood for quirky and wonderful, then make your way to the Ernst Fuchs Museum in the Wien Hütteldorf, the 14th district of Vienna. You can drive there from central Vienna in about 25 minutes or hop on a bus.

Ernst Fuchs Museum near Vienna, Austria. Photo from the Ernst Fuchs Museum Website.
Exterior of the stunning Ernst Fuch Museum near Vienna.
Photo Credit: Ernst Fuchs Museum Website

Who is Ernst Fuchs?

Ernst Fuchs (1930-2015) was an extraordinarily prolific artist who created works infused with eroticism and myth. In the sixties, Fuchs became a style icon and designed architecture, furniture, tapestries, and jewelry. He was a founder of the Vienna School of Fantastic Realism and was celebrated internationally.

History of the Ernst Fuchs Museum

Fuchs’s work is displayed in the fabulously restored Wagner House, designed and built in 1888 as a summer house by the renowned Jugendstil architect Otto Wagner. The place is, quite simply, spectacular. Inspired by Palladio, Wagner designed the house in the style of a Roman villa.

Back in the day, the design attracted international attention. The press wrote: “A strange allure is evoked by this peculiar villa . . .Completely deviating from the usual appearance of similar buildings, the frontal view of the house that sits on the flank of a hill only shows a large open hall between two side wings.”

Fuchs bought the villa in 1972 when it was derelict and scheduled for demolition. In two years, he restored the house to its original architectural glory and for many years used the house as his private studio. In 1988, the centenary of the building of the original villa, the Ernst Fuchs Museum opened.

Work of Ernst Fuchs

Fuchs’s work combines the fantastic with elements of the visionary and spiritual, all infused with a healthy dollop of sixties psychedelic and a lot of naked bodies.

You’ll find eroticism everywhere. Even if you’re not a big fan of the work, you will appreciate its complexity and awesome technique. You come away with a new appreciation for the heights made possible by the human imagination.

Although I wasn’t hugely taken by the overly florid and fantastical artworks, I loved the unique architecture, whimsical design elements, gorgeous mosaics, and above all, stunning stained-glass windows.

Images of Ernst Fuchs Museum

I highly recommend a visit to this unique museum that also includes beautifully landscaped gardens. Here are photographs of some of the rooms in the Ernst Fuchs Museum. Source: Ernst Fuchs official website.

Adolf Boehm Salon in the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Adolf Boehm Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Grand Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Grand Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Roman Bath at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Roman Bath at the Ernst Fuchs Museum

Explore Ernst Fuchs Museum in 3D

This fantastic website allows you to walk through the museum and use your mouse to zoom in on every painting and design element. It’s one of the best virtual tours I’ve come across.

Visitor Information

The Ernst Fuchs Museum is located at Hüttelbergstraße 26, 1140 Wien and is from from Tuesday through Sunday from 10 am to 4 pm. Tickets cost €11 for adults and €6 for students and seniors or €8 with the Wiencard. For more information, see the Ernst Fuchs Museum website.

#2: Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France

Located in the charming town of Albi in southwest France, the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is a total treat. If you’re in the area, put it on your list and leave yourself lots of time to tour the extensive collections.

Who is Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec?

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) was a leading French artist famous for capturing the personalities of his subjects in loose, free-flowing lines. Born into a wealthy family in Albi, Toulouse-Lautrec’s interest in art flourished following accidents to his legs in his childhood that incapacitated him and resulted in permanent damage.

In the mid-1880s in Paris, Toulouse-Lautrec began his lifelong association with the bohemian life of the cafés, cabarets, entertainers, and artists in Montmartre.

Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec

The Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is housed in the Bishop’s Palace (Palais de la Berbie) next door to Albi Cathedral (also worth a visit). The original palace was built in the 13th-century as a fortress to house the bishops of Albi. The original medieval architecture has been maintained with high, thick walls, and a central courtyard.

Palais de la Berbie in Albi, France (Albi Cathedral to the left)
Palais de la Berbie in Albi, France (Albi Cathedral to the left)

From the Renaissance to the 18th century, the fortress was transformed into a pleasure palace that included sumptuous state rooms and landscaped formal gardens which you can still visit today.

Overlooking the gardens at the Palais de la Berbie that houses the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France
Overlooking the gardens at the Palais de la Berbie that houses the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France

When we visited the museum soon after it opened in the morning, we practically had the place to ourselves.

And it’s huge! Room after room feature the world’s largest public collection of Lautrec’s paintings, lithographs, drawings, and posters. The collection is laid out in chronological order, starting with Toulouse-Lautrec’s early work and leading to the massive posters for which he is most famous.

In addition to exhibiting Toulouse-Lautrec’s work, the museum includes a large collection of art from the early 20th century. You’ll also view a fine collection of art from earlier periods, displayed in the sumptuously restored palace rooms.

A visit to the museum includes access to the palace’s classical gardens and panoramic views over the Tarn River.

View over the Tarne River in Albi, France
View over the Tarn River in Albi, France

Work of Toulouse-Lautrec

I was fascinated with the looseness of Toulouse-Lautrec’s work. He uses freely handled lines and colors to convey the idea of movement and to infuse his subjects with personality. You can imagine meeting the same people on the streets of Paris today.

Here are two of the works you’ll see in the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec. Both pictures are taken from the website of the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec.

Painting called L'anglaise du star au havre" by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
L’anglaise du star au havre” (1899) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Painting called "Femme qui tire son bras" by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Femme qui tire son bras” (1894) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec

You’ll likely recognize several of the posters that were used to advertise the Moulin Rouge and other popular entertainment venues in late-19th-century Paris.

Moulin Rouge: La Goulue (1981) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Moulin Rouge: La Goulue (1981) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Ambassadeurs – Aristide Bruant (1892) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Ambassadeurs – Aristide Bruant (1892) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia

Visitor Information

Tickets for adults cost €10 and €5 for students. The address for the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is Palais de la Berbie, Place Sainte-Cécile. Find the cathedral and you’ll find the adjacent palace. Hours vary depending on the time of year, but for most of the year, the museum is open from 10 am to noon and 2 pm to 6 pm. From June 21 to September 30, the museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm.

Both the cathedral and the palace are built from bricks that glow pink in the setting sun. Here’s a shot of the cathedral from across the river where we stayed in a bed-and-breakfast.

Albi Cathedral in the setting sun
Albi Cathedral in the setting sun

#3: Musée National Fernand Léger in Biot, France

If you’re staying in the Côte d’Azur, put a visit to this museum on your list of must-sees. As the only museum in the world dedicated to the work of Fernand Léger, this purpose-built museum is truly delightful. You’ll see a fabulous collection of Léger’s paintings, sculptures, drawings, ceramics, and tapestries.

Musée National Fernand Léger
Musée National Fernand Léger Photo Credit: Hans G. Oberlack, Creative Commons

Who is Fernand Léger?

Fernand Léger (1881-1955) was a French painter, sculptor, and filmmaker known for his bright and colorful work–a personal form of cubism known as “tubism”. He often depicted industrial subjects and objects of the consumer age–an art ‘first’–and is considered the forerunner of the pop art movement.

Léger was born in Argentan in Normandy. I recently read that his childhood home is being turned into a museum. That will definitely be on our itinerary the next time we travel in northern France. Check out the article.

Photograph of artist Fernand Léger
Source: Wikipedia
Fernand Léger
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Musée National Fernand Léger

In 1955, not long before his death, Léger purchased a villa on the property upon which the museum now stands. Supervised by his widow, construction of the museum began in 1957 with the museum opening to great fanfare in 1960.

The museum exhibits Léger’s work in chronological order, beginning with his realist early work and progressing to his “tubism” period prior to World War I with its emphasis on cylindrical forms and then to his “mechanical period” that was heavily influenced by his war experiences. The collection includes over 450 pieces.

In addition to the collection inside the museum, you’ll want to linger awhile on the grounds to enjoy Léger’s massive sculptures and especially to view the huge murals that cover the outside of the museum.

Sculpture on the grounds of the Musée National Fernand Léger
Source: Abxhay - Creative Commons
Sculpture on the grounds of the Musée National Fernand Léger
Source: Abxhay – Creative Commons

If you’re traveling with children, the Léger Museum is an excellent stop.

We first visited the museum when Julia was nine years old. She loved it! I think her appreciation for modern art stems partially from that visit. Mind you, growing up surrounded by her dad’s work also likely played a role!

Work of Fernand Léger

Léger’s work is bright, bold, and beautiful. It’s impossible, I think, to tour this museum and not enjoy yourself. The more you study his work, the more you appreciate it.

Here are two works by Léger. Regrettably, I did not take pictures when I visited the museum, so these photos are from the WikiArt website.

"Contrast of Forms" by Fernand Léger (1918)
Source: WikiArt
“Contrast of Forms” (1918) by Fernand Léger
Source: WikiArt

"The Man with the Cane" (1920) Source: WikiArt
“The Man with the Cane” (1920) by Fernand Léger
Source: WikiArt

Visitor Information

Visit the museum every day except Tuesdays, December 25, January 1, and May 1. From November to April, the museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm, and May to October from 10 am to 6 pm. Tickets cost €7.50. Admission is free on the first Sunday of the month. The museum is located at Chemin du Val de Pome, very close to Biot, a small village in the hills above the Côte d’Azur. If you’re traveling by car, you will find it easily. While you’re in the area, don’t miss several other wonderful museums showcasing the work of other 20th-century modern artists.

Two other single-artist museums—the Marc Chagall National Museum in Nice and the Musée National Pablo Picasso in Vallauris— are, like the Léger Museum, part of the network of French National museums in the Alpes-Maritimes department dedicated to 20th-century artists.

#4: Fondation Vasarely in Aix-en-Provence, France

On the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence (one of my favorite towns in the south of France), you’ll find the impressive and undervisited Fondation Vasarely. The museum showcases the massive artworks of Victor Vasarely, a Hungarian-French artist (1906-1997) considered the grandfather and leader of the op art movement.

Fernand Léger
Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France

Who is Victor Vasarely?

Victor Vasarely (1906-1997) was a French-Hungarian artist who used colorful geometric shapes to create compelling 3D optical illusions.

After settling in Paris in 1930, Vasarely experimented with Surrealism and Abstract Expressionism in the 1940s, then developed his hallmark checkerboard paintings.

Victor Vasarely
Source: Wikipedia
Victor Vasarely
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Fondation Vasarely

The Fondation Vasarely was opened in 1976 by French president Georges Pompidou.

Each of the seven hexagonal galleries contains six monumental works of art. On our most recent trip there in 2018, some of the artworks were in need of restoration, which is a shame.

Help support the continuation of this stunning museum by paying it a visit when you’re in the area.

Visiting here is like walking through posters from the swinging sixties, which is hardly surprising since the 3D optical illusions that characterize Vasarely’s work have graced the dorm rooms of students for decades.

Work of Victor Vasarely

Here are some of the massive pieces you’ll see at the Fondation Vasarely.

Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - blues and greens
Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - reds and multi-colors
Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - blues and greens

Visitor Information

Located at 1, Avenue Marcel Pagnol on the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence, the distinctive museum is easy to find. Admission is €9 for adults. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm.

#5: Max Ernst Museum near Cologne, Germany

The stylish Max Ernst Museum is located in Brühl, about a twenty-minute drive from Cologne on the way to Bonn. For Gregg, a visit there on a recent trip to the area was akin to a pilgrimage. Gregg has been a fan of surrealist Max Ernst for decades—pretty much since he first became an artist himself.

Gregg Simpson outside the Max Ernst Museum in Brühl near Cologne, Germany
Gregg outside the Max Ernst Museum in Brühl near Cologne, Germany

Who is Max Ernst?

Max Ernst (1891-1976) was born in Germany and became a naturalised American in 1948 and a French citizen in 1958. He was a painter, sculptor, graphic artist, collagist, and poet, a pioneer of the Dada movement, and a member of the surrealist group.

Towards the end of his life, Max Ernst, along with his wife, noted painter Dorothea Tanning, moved to the charming village of Seillans in the Var region of Provence. We spent two weeks in Seillans in July 2019 where Gregg had an exhibition in a space close to where Ernst and Tanning lived.

Max Ernst
Photo: Wikipedia
Max Ernst
Photo: Wikipedia

History of the Max Ernst Museum

The museum features a marvelous collection of Ernst’s work displayed in a thoughtfully renovated space. A modern glass pavilion is integrated into the horseshoe floor plan of the late-classicist Brühler Pavillon, a popular ballroom and social venue that was erected in 1844 and that Max Ernst himself visited in his youth.

Stylishly renovated Max Ernst Museum in Brühl, Germany
Stylishly renovated Max Ernst Museum in Brühl, Germany
Photo: Max Ernst Museum Website

You’ll find an extensive collection of paintings, drawings, frottages, collages, and sculptures spanning over 70 years of Ernst’s influential career, including his time in Brühl and Bonn, his Dadaist activities in the Rhineland, his contributions to the Surrealist movement in France, his exile in the United States during WWII, and finally his return to Europe in 1953.

I especially loved the sculptures on the grounds of the museum.

Work of Max Ernst

Max Ernst was a fabulously prolific artist with work that is detailed and complex and wholly distinctive. Here’s a selection of some of my favorite works by Max Ernst. Pictures are all from the max-ernst.com website.

"Attirement of the Bride" (1940) by Max Ernst
Attirement of the Bride” (1940) by Max Ernst
"Ubu Imperator" (1923) by Max Ernst
Ubu Imperator” (1923) by Max Ernst
"The Triumph of Surrealism" (1973) by Max Ernst
The Triumph of Surrealism” (1973) by Max Ernst

Visitor Information

The museum is located at Comesstraße 42 / Max-Ernst-Allee 1, 50321 Brühl and is open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. At present (May, 2020), admission to the museum is free. For current information, check the museum website.

#6: René Magritte Museum in Brussels, Belgium

The full name of the museum is the René Magritte Museum – Museum of Abstract Art, a double museum dedicated to Surrealism and Abstraction. Now that’s a double bill I can get behind.

On a recent short visit to Brussels, we made a beeline for the Magritte Museum and were not disappointed. As one of the most iconic figures in the surrealist movement, René Magritte deserves his own museum, and this one is first rate.

Who is René Magritte?

René Magritte (1898-1967) was a Belgian artist and probably one of the best-known surrealists after Salvador Dali. Back in the 1970s, I had a poster of his iconic painting of a massive dove called “The Large Family” on the wall of my student dorm–and I was not the only one.

"The Large Family" by Rene Magritte
Photo Credit: www.renemagritte.org
“The Large Family” by Rene Magritte
Photo Credit: www.renemagritte.org

In the 1920s, Magritte moved to Paris from Belgium and became involved with André Breton and the Surrealist group, of which he was a leading member. He exhibited in 1929 with several of the leading surrealists of the time, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Arp, de Chirico, Max Ernst, Joan Miró, Picabia, Picasso, and Yves Tanguy.

In 1930, Magritte returned to Brussels and continued painting there until his death. His imagery has heavily influenced pop, minimalist, and conceptual art.

René Magritte Photo: www.renemagritte.org

René Magritte Photo: www.renemagritte.org

History of the René Magritte Museum

The museum is relatively new, opened in 1999 shortly after Magritte’s one hundredth birthday. It’s built inside a house that Magritte lived in with his wife and includes an adjoining building that was renovated to showcase 250 masterpieces of Belgian abstract art.

You’ll tour the reconstruction of Magritte’s apartment on the ground floor and then view artworks from a collection that includes over 400 archive documents, photos, and objects, as well as 30 original works. You won’t see some of his most famous works, but you will get a good overview of Magritte’s development.

We loved it!

Work of René Magritte

Magritte’s work is endlessly fascinating–both for its meticulous technique and for its subject matter. Bowler hats, floating rocks, figures that are half animal/half people, and strange juxtapositions of everyday logic. When you tour the museum, you never know what you’re going to see around the next dimly lit corner.

Take your time and enjoy! Here are some of Magritte’s the works from the collection. Photos are all from the Magritte Museum pages on the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium website (Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique)

L'empire des lumières by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
L’empire des lumières by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
Le Domaine d'Arnheim (1962) by  René Magritte - Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
Le Domaine d’Arnheim (1962) by  René Magritte – Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
La magie noire (1945) by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
La magie noire (1945) by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
Golconde (1953) by René Magritte - Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
Golconde (1953) by René Magritte – Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography

Visitor Information

Located at Place Royale, Koningsplein 1 in Brussels, admission to the museum is €10 for adults, €8 for seniors, and €3 for students. Opening hours are Monday to Friday from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm and weekends from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm. Check the website for up-to-date information.

#7: Museo Sorolla in Madrid by Guest Poster Liz Reding

This description of the Sorolla Museum is written by guest poster Liz Reding. She and her husband visited in March, 2020, days before the museum closed in response to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Liz Reding: My husband and I have been admirers of the paintings of Joaquín Sorolla for many years, so on our recent trip to Madrid, a visit to the Museo Sorolla was top of our list.

Who is Joaquín Sorolla?

Born in Valencia, Spain, Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida (1863-1923) received his art education in Madrid, Rome, and Paris and was a contemporary of Picasso, Matisse, John Singer Sargent, and Andreas Zorn. He and his wife, Clotilde, had three children.

He painted portraits, landscapes, and monumental works depicting social and historical themes.

Joaquín Sorolla
Photo: Wikipedia
Joaquín Sorolla
Photo: Wikipedia

History of the Museo Sorolla

The Museo Sorolla is located in the home that Sorolla shared with his family, and is considered one of the best-preserved artist houses in Europe. The collection of more than 1,200 pieces is displayed along with the house’s original furniture and objects.

The house is surrounded by a delightful garden, a real oasis from the rumble of the cars and buses just outside the gate. 

Garden at the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding
Garden at the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding

By urban standards, this museum is relatively small, but packed with dozens of gorgeous paintings, as well as sculptures, sketches, photographs, water colors, and writings.

One noteworthy feature of this museum is that all the works are expertly hung and well lit. Most of the viewing rooms have deep colors that enhance the paintings with light-diffusing devices, such as a window shade or ceiling tapestry. What a pleasure!

Interior of the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding
Interior of the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding

Work of Joaquín Sorolla

Sorolla’s wife and children are featured in a significant number of Sorolla’s paintings, and his love and admiration for them clearly shows. In addition, Sorolla painted many portraits of important people, including U. S. President Taft, and is known for his masterful handling of light, as evidenced by his many beach-scene paintings.

Here are two of Sorolla’s works exhibited at the Museo Sorolla.

Painting by Joaquín Sorolla at the Museo Sorolla, Madrid
Photo credit: Liz Reding
Painting by Joaquín Sorolla at the Museo Sorolla, Madrid
Photo credit: Liz Reding

Visitor Information

Located at Paseo General Martínez Campos, 37, the Museo Sorolla is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9:30 am to 8:00 pm and on Sundays and holidays from 10:00 am to 3:00 pm. Tickets cost €3.

Other Single-Artist Museums in Europe

I wish I could say that I’ve visited all the single-artist museums that I’d like to in Europe, but not yet!

Here are just some of the museums I look forward to visiting in the next few years. If you’ve been to any of them, add a comment to let other Artsy Travelers know what you think!

Fondation Jean Dubuffet

Located in Périgny-sur-Yerres in the department of Val-de-Marne, the Dubuffet Foundation includes paintings and massive outdoor sculptures by Jean Dubuffet. Many years ago, we went there only to find it closed, but we did manage to peek through the fence! It looked amazing!

Zentrum Paul Klee in Bern, Switzerland

I’m a big fan of the work of Paul Klee and have his museum on my list for the next time we drive through Switzerland. Check the website for details.

Franz Marc Museum in Kochel, Germany

A modern extension has extended the exhibition space of this beautifully-situated museum, It overlooks a lake near the little town of Kochel in Bavaria, about an hour west of Munich. Franz Marc’s colorful work makes me smile. Check the website for details.

Conclusion

Have you visited any of the museums listed in this post? If so, let Artsy Traveler readers know what you think.

To keep reading about art in Europe, check out these posts:

Recommended Places to Stay in France That Will Make You Want to Return

You’re in luck when it comes to finding great places to stay in France. In fact, some of our most memorable stays in Europe have been in family-run, country-style hotels in France.

In this post, I provide general tips about accommodations in France and then list hotels I recommend.

Choosing a Room

To Book or Not to Book?

I favor a combination approach to booking hotels in France. Generally, I book most of the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home, and then while traveling, I make adjustments as needed. I like the security of knowing that I have a place to stay, but I also take advantage of cancellation options to ensure I can always change my mind.

To stay flexible, choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book, change, or cancel hotel reservations if your itinerary changes. Most sites offer a no-cancellation option at a lower price.

TIP: Stay flexible when you travel. You never know when you might meet someone who recommends a festival or event or exhibition. More than once, I’ve altered an itinerary to attend a special exhibition or visit a new attraction.

I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel. For example, I will select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from because I know those locations won’t change.

Breakfasts in French Hotels

Breakfasts in France are generally of the continental variety and include croissants (both regular and chocolate-filled), fresh baguettes with wonderful butter and lots of jams and marmalades, and coffee. You may also find fresh fruit, dry cereal, cold meats, and cheeses. In large hotels, cooked options may be available.

In our experience, most breakfasts in small country hotels in France are continental breakfasts that are either included in the room price or are generally not too expensive.

If hotel breakfasts cost too much extra, I buy yogurt and fruit at a local grocery store and then go to a bar or café for my morning café au lait.

In France, I favor hotels on the outskirts of cities or in the countryside if we’re driving. I check the map showing the location of hotels and choose one that is outside town walls but within walking distance of the center of town.

I don’t recommend driving into Paris. We’ve done so several times, and it’s challenging, to say the least!

View of a traffic jam in Paris with the Arc de Triomphe in the center
Traffic in Paris–not for the faint of heart!

Star Rating

I favor three- or four-star properties in France that offer amenities such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, pools, and WIFI.

I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters is too small for two people with luggage. I do my best to book rooms that are at least 20 square meters.

Reviews – Should You Care?

I recommend that you pay attention to reviews. If a property’s aggregate review is under 8.0 out of a possible 10, consider taking a pass. Sometimes, the difference between a property with a 9.6 review and one with an 8.2 review is only a few euros, and yet the quality of the higher-rated property makes the extra money worth spending.

You have to take reviews with a grain of salt, however. Just because a property has a score of 9.8 doesn’t meant it’s five-star luxury. A 9.8 score for a two-star hotel is not the same as a 9.8 for a four-star.

TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in France and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.

For more tips on finding accommodations, read Six Steps to Making Awesome Accommodation Choices in Europe.

Accommodation Options by Region in France

For each destination, I describe properties I’ve stayed in. Click the link to the hotel to make a reservation with booking.com.

Places to Stay in Paris

When you’re in Paris, you won’t want to stay outside the périphérique in what are pretty dull suburban areas. The périphérique is the multi-lane ring road that circles Paris. Mammoth traffic jams are not uncommon on the périphérique –we’ve experienced a few!

To avoid driving into Paris, we’ve occasionally stayed at a hotel near one of the portes on the périphérique. However, I don’t recommend doing so. The surrounding area can be quite dreary, and you’ll need to take a long Metro ride into the center.

If you’re driving, consider organizing your trip so that you either start or end in Paris. That way, you can be car-free in the city and stay at a place in an interesting and central area, such as the Marais or my favorite, Montparnasse, on the Left Bank.

We visit Paris frequently and usually stay either in apartments or hotels on the Left Bank. The Montparnasse area is far enough from the tourist crowds and the throat-tightening prices of Saint Germain but still within walking distance, or a short Metro ride, of the Seine. 

Montparnasse these days isn’t the bohemian, majorly hip place it was between the World Wars when everyone who was anyone—from Hemingway to Picasso to the newly formed surrealist group— hung out there. However, it still has plenty of good restaurants (La Coupole, Le Dôme) with appropriately snooty waiters (I adore watching Parisian waiters work!) and amazing seafood. 

Here are my accommodation picks for Paris, all of which we’ve stayed in.

Hôtel de L’Université on the Left Bank near Saint-Germain-des-Prés is lovely with spacious rooms and an awesome location just blocks from the Seine and the hip part of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. We will definitely stay there again.

Hôtel Le Chaplain in Montparnasse is a reasonably-priced budget option located near the Vavin Metro stop.

Hôtel A La Villa des Artistes is the first hotel we stayed in as a family. Located in Montparnasse on the same street as the Hôtel Le Chaplain and close to the Vavin Metro, the hotel is also a short walk to the Luxembourg Gardens where our daughter spent many happy hours in a smartly designed playground.

Hôtel Le Clos Médicis has a great location about a block from the Luxembourg Gardens near the Boulevard Saint Michel. The rooms are pricey and tiny but very well-appointed and comfortable.

Medici Fountain in the Luxembourg Gardens in Paris
Medici fountain in the Luxembourg Garden near the Hôtel Le Clos Médici

We’ve stayed in a few more hotels that don’t warrant a recommendation. Paris has its share of overpriced and underwhelming places. Take your time finding a place and be aware that you may need to adjust your budget upwards to get a comfortable room in a good location.

As mentioned, we usually stay in apartments. Good options are available on HomeAway and booking.com.

Search for more hotels in Paris.

Places to Stay in Normandy

I recommend basing yourself in Honfleur and from there exploring the World War II beaches at Normandy, the charming town of Bayeux with its historic tapestry, and the soaring cliffs of Étretat.

Honfleur has several good choices, including the Hotel L’Ecrin where we stayed. The hotel includes free parking and is within easy walking distance of the Vieux Bassin.

For information about what to see in Normandy, see Top Normandy Sites for Art & History Lovers.

Places to Stay in Brittany

We love traveling in Brittany! Over the years, we’ve visited a few times and have always found excellent, country-style accommodations.

Here are three hotels that I’m happy to recommend:

Trébeurden and Trégastel on the Côte de Granit Rose

Both Trébeurden and Trégastel are great choices if you want to spend time exploring the gorgeous Côte de granit rose (Pink Granite Coast). Both of these hotels are excellent options:

Trébeurden: Hôtel Le Toeno offers simple and comfortable accommodation with terraces that overlook the ocean.

Trégastel: Le Beauséjour also features sea views in addition to an excellent restaurant. Our room had a very fancy spa bath with more jet settings than I’ve ever seen.

View of the Côte de Granit Rose near  Trégastel in Brittany
View of the Côte de Granit Rose near Trégastel in Brittany

Pont Aven

Spend some time in lovely little Pont Aven where Gauguin was inspired to paint some of his most memorable works.

We stayed at Le Domain de Pont Aven Art Gallery Resort–quite a posh place that was worth the cost. Set in beautiful grounds and within walking distance of Pont Aven, the resort is a good choice for a splurge.

Places to Stay in Provence and the Côte d’Azur

Provence and the stunning Côte d’Azur are, hands down, my favorite areas of France. Well, why not? Provence has it all–fields of lavender and sunflowers under brittle blue skies, swims in the warm Mediterranean, excellent meals enjoyed al fresco, and that special light that has inspired artists for centuries.

Pretty much every time we’ve traveled to Europe in the past several years, we’ve squeezed in at least a few days in the south of France. In 2021, we plan to settle into a place near the Mediterranean for three months.

Here, I’ll describe some of the places we’ve stayed in Provence. Areas include van Gogh country around Les Baux-des-Provence on the western edge of Provence, the charming towns of Roussillon and Gordes in the Luberon area, the relatively undiscovered Var region, and finally, the fabled Côte d’Azur.

Les Baux-des-Provence in Van Gogh Country

By van Gogh country, I mean Arles and the surrounding areas where Vincent van Gogh painted during the few years he lived in the region. Because we always have a car in Provence, we book places in the countryside in this area rather than within the Arles city limits or in difficult-to-navigate Les Baux-des-Provence.

Panorama of Les Baux-de-Provence in southern France
Les Baux-des-Provence is close to both recommended properties

But if you’re not driving, find a hotel in Arles so you can enjoy wandering this delightful city in the warm, Provençal evening.

Here are two places I highly recommend, both in the countryside near Les Baux-des-Provence:

Du Côté Des Olivades is outside the small town of Paradou, but it’s in the vicinity of Les Baux-des-Provence. This place is Provence with a capital P, with plenty of 4-star luxury and a gorgeous country setting. We walked from here to nearby Paradou where we enjoyed one of our favorite meals in Provence (which is saying something!).

On our most recent trip to the area, we stayed in Domaine du Mas Foucray in a rural setting near the small town of Maussane-les-Alpilles and within sight of Les-Baux-de-Provence. Billed as an aparthotel, the one-bedroom suites include a kitchen and sitting area and a private terrace. In early July when we were there, we picked fresh apricots off the trees.

I took this video on the grounds of the property. If you’re looking for a relaxing, Provençal experience without the hefty price tag of some of the properties in the area, then you can’t go wrong with the Domaine du Mas Foucray.

Domaine du Mas Foucray near Les Baux-de-Provence

Luberon Area (Vaucluse)

On one of our first family trips to Europe when our daughter was nine years old, we rented a house for two weeks in the hill town of Saignon, located near Apt in the Vaucluse region of the Luberon.

With lavender season in full swing and beautiful vistas everywhere we looked, not to mention warm summer days and lots to see, we fell in love with the area.

Village of Saignon in Provence with lavender field in the foreground
Saignon in the Luberon in Provence where we stayed for two weeks

Pick one of the gorgeous little towns and settle in for as many days as you can manage. We’ve home-based in Bonnieux, Roussillon, and Gordes. Other good options are Menerbes (where A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle is set), Lacoste, and tiny Saignon with its ruined fortress and sweeping views.

One of our favorite family-run, country-style hotels is Les Sables d’Ocre in Roussillon. The place is also one of the two French properties I include in 10 Family-Run Hotels in Europe I Recommend.

Here are two highly recommended hotels in the Luberon, one in Roussillon and one in Gordes.

Les Sables d’Ocre – A 15-minute walk from the village of Roussillon, this place sets the bar for what a country-style, family-run, low-key, easy-on-the-budget place should be. Book one of the rooms that includes a terrace. You’ll have your own private outdoor space and be steps from the pool.

Domain de l’Enclos – This place close to Gordes–one of the most beautiful hill towns in the area–is wonderful. We snagged a room with a terrace which Gregg made use of to do some drawing. The views from the garden over the Luberon are spectacular.

Gregg Simpson drawing on the terrace of a hotel in Provence, France
Gregg drawing on the terrace at the Domaine de l’Enclos near Gordes, Provence

The Var

If you’re driving from Aix-en-Provence to the Côte d’Azur, you pass through the spectacular–and relatively undiscovered–region of the Var. We’ve stayed in the Var a few times while Gregg had exhibitions at the gorgeous little village of Seillans, a hill town not far from Fayence, one of the principal towns in the area.

Here are two recommended properties in the area around Seillans.

Hôtel Restaurant des Deux Rocs – Situated at the edge of Seillans and including a lovely restaurant with a terrace overlooking the view, this place is a great choice if you want to stay in the village of Seillans.

La Bastide de Negrin – This place is a good example of a typical small bed and breakfast in the area, with comfortable rooms and of course, a pool. Each of the four rooms is named after a different artist: Matisse, Picasso, Renoir, and Cezanne.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence and Vence

This area of the Côte d’Azur is one of our favorites, particularly the town of Vence. You’ll find plenty of gorgeous properties in the area. Here are three that we’ve stayed in.

La Petite Maison: This two-story apartment has a spectacular view over Saint-Paul-de-Vence and the Mediterranean beyond. You are also within easy walking distance of the village.

Village of Saint Paul-de-Vence from the terrace of Le Petite Maison in the south of France
Gregg surveying Saint Paul-de-Vence from the terrace of Le Petite Maison

Hôtel Marc Hély: We enjoyed a room with a view over Saint Paul-de-Vence and a tasty breakfast in the courtyard. This is a great choice in La Colle-sur-Loup, which is about a ten-minute drive from the Fondation Maeght.

View of Saint Paul de Vence and a valley in the south of France
Wine on the balcony at the Hôtel Marc-Hély

Miramar: This hotel is in Vence, which is just up the hill from Saint-Paul-de-Vence and a larger town with more services. FYI, we had the best pizza in an outdoor café in the Old Town of Vence! The Miramar is a reasonably-priced and well-located property that is great for drivers.

Search other hotels in Vence.

Search other hotels in Saint-Paul-de-Vence.

Monte Carlo and the Côte d’Azur

Port Palace Hotel in Monte Carlo – On a recent trip to the Riviera, we arrived at the house we’d rented through HomeAway for three days high above Monte Carlo to find no one there. A quick call to the HomeAway folks confirmed that our reservation had never been confirmed, despite emails to the contrary. What to do? Fortunately, HomeAway responded to our predicament by booking us into the Port Palace right on the harbor in Monte Carlo. The first night was comped, but we loved the place so much that we stayed for another two nights. Although a bit on the pricey side, the massive room and the harbor view along with fabulous breakfasts and really friendly staff made our stay at the Port Palace once of our most memorable in France.

Hôtel de l’Esterel in Agay overlooking the Mediterranean and not far from Saint Raphael is located right smack in the middle of a Pierre-en-Vacances, otherwise known as a holiday village. From our room we overlooked one of the largest hotel pools I’ve ever seen. The holiday village was hopping with French families and included several restaurants, a row of shops, and numerous activities.

Swimming pools at a holiday village in the south of France overlooking the Mediterranean
Massive pools at the Holiday Village where the Hôtel de l’Esterel is located

Places to Stay in Dordogne and Languedoc

Like Provence, both Languedoc and the Dordogne have many gorgeous properties set in idyllic countryside. Here are two in the Dordogne and one in Albi in Languedoc that we’ve stayed in and recommend.

Château le Tour is a fabulous choice in the middle of the countryside east of Bergerac and near the tiny village of Faux. We stayed for several days and enjoyed evening meals served outside to all the guests, swims in the infinity pool, and lots of lounging around the grounds. If you want a country experience in the Dordogne and you’re touring France by car, you can’t go wrong at this place.

Chateau de Tour in the Dordogne region of France
Château de Tour in the Dordogne region of France

The Hôtel Archambeau in the tiny village of Thonac not far from Montignac is another great country-style choice. Take a walk around the village and out into the bucolic countryside.

We recently visited Albi in Languedoc for the first time and were very much taken with it. La Cabane Albigeoise is a self-contained, two-floor minihouse located in a large garden above the river and right across from the iconic Albi Cathedral. Here’s the view from the terrace.

View of Albi Cathedral for La Cabane Albigeoise
View of Albi Cathedral from La Cabane Albigeoise

Conclusion

Do you have recommendations for great places to stay in France? Please share your experience with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments section below.

Once you’ve secured your accommodations, check out what there is to see in the places your visiting. Here are some posts to help you choose:

Discover Lyon–Friendly, Vibrant & Very French

Discover the hidden gems of Lyon, France’s third-largest city and the center of gastronomy in France.

A few years ago, guest poster Liz Reding moved with her husband Michael to France and settled in the charming city of Lyon.

Liz shares tips for exploring and enjoying her adopted city.


By Liz Reding

When you travel, do you enjoy seeing and doing things that are a little off the beaten path? I know I do! Mind you, I think going to a grocery store in a foreign country is fun.  

In this post, I’ll introduce you to my new hometown–the beautiful and vibrant city of Lyon.

Guest Poster Liz Reding

Map of Lyon

The map below shows the location of the sights covered in this post. Because Lyon is relatively small, you can walk everywhere. And when you tire of walking, the public transportation system will get you where you want to go in a flash. It’s cheap, easy to use, clean, modern, and fast!

This map was made with Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android

Lyon Overview

In Lyon, you won’t experience the manic hustle and tourist hordes of larger European cities, such as Paris, Berlin, and London. You will find friendly people, a truly French environment, and a lively cultural scene. 

You’ll also find many opportunities for artsy travel in Lyon–from opera performances and fine arts museums to boulangeries and foodie experiences.

View of the Saone River and city of Lyon at sunrise
Lyon just before sunrise Photo: Liz Reding

With a population of 1.7 million, Lyon is a manageable city about the same size as Copenhagen, Munich, and Vienna. It’s one third the size of Barcelona and one quarter that of Madrid. 

A UNESCO World Heritage City, Lyon has a rich and varied history and cultural heritage. It was the capital of the Gauls in Roman times, an integral part of the 17th-century silk trade, a pivotal center of French Resistance during World War II, and is now a leader in the development and production of pharmaceuticals. 

I’ve divided my guide to discovering Lyon into three sections: Touring Lyon, Visiting Museums and Churches, and Exploring Lyon’s Food Culture.

Touring Lyon

Lyon City Card

Like most European cities, Lyon offers a tourist card that gives you access to most of its museums and all of its transit system. To purchase your Lyon City Card, visit the Lyon Visitor Center at one of its many locations (including Place Bellecour) or purchase it online at Tiqets.com. Durations from one to four days are available.

The Lyon City Card offers free access to the public transportation system and free/discounted admission to 23 museums. You can enter an included attraction once per purchased card. 

When using your Lyon City Card, be mindful of what days you’ll be using it. Many museums are closed on Monday. It would be a shame to lose one whole museum use day if your card includes a Monday.  

For more information and a complete list of attractions, check the Lyon City Card website.

View of the old town of Lyon from the river
View of Lyon from the Saône River

Lyon Sightseeing Cruise

The Lyon Sightseeing Cruise along the the Saône (rhymes with cone) River is a perfect afternoon/evening activity when you’ve walked your feet off and need some rest and relaxation. Enjoy watching the city of Lyon drift by while listening to the interesting narrative provided by the guide. 

Every time I take one of these cruises, I learn something new. If you’re lucky and the weather is fine, you’ll be able to sit on the open top deck and take in some rays along with the sights. 

The river cruise is free with the Lyon City Card or €13 per person without the card.

Lyon Sightseeing River Cruise – included with the Lyon City Card Photo: Tiqets.com

For more information and schedules, check out Sightseeing Cruises with Les Bateaux Lyonnais (#1 on the map above).

City Tram Tour

This motorized tour takes you to the Croix-Rousse area (#2) and shows you many fascinating features of this city-within-a-city in Lyon.

The open-sided tram trundles through the village-like streets of an area that was once the silk workers’ district and is now famous for its boho atmosphere, markets, and wall murals (more on the murals later!).

Unlike the rest of the city, Croix-Rousse is located on top of a hill. You can access Croix-Rousse by foot, Metro, or bus. However, taking the funicular is the most fun. If you haven’t ridden one, you really must!

The tram tour is free with the Lyon City Card or €9 per person without the card. Find out more and book your tour at the Lyon City Tram website.

Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon)

The old town of Lyon (#3) is quaint, charming, and full of mysteries and calories. Vieux Lyon is the one of the most extensive Renaissance neighborhoods in Europe, with three distinct sections: Saint Jean, Saint Paul and Saint Georges.

Stroll along charming, narrow cobblestone streets and through the traboules–covered passageways–that are a fascinating historical feature of this area. Have a look at the Gothic-style Saint Jean Cathedral.

Better yet, take a guided walking tour of Vieux Lyon. This two-hour tour in English includes lively narration about the history and culture of Lyon, the history of silk production, the French Resistance during World War II, and Lyon food culture.

Check the Free Tour Lyon website for tour times and more details. The tour starts at 10 am at Place Saint-Jean and runs on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Book ahead or just show up.

Visiting Churches and Museums

La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière

How can you not be awed by this building and the view of Lyon from the overlook? La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière (#4) is one of Lyon’s principal landmarks, visible from almost everywhere in the city. 

The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière dominates the skyline of Lyon
The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière dominates the skyline of Lyon.

Built between 1872 and 1884 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière is a relatively modern structure. The annual Fête de Lumières (Festival of Lights), held in early December, is Lyon’s way of thanking the Virgin for saving the city from the bubonic plague that swept through Europe in 1643. 

Highlights of your visit to Fourvière include:

  • Discovery Visit: Every day from April to November, take a free, 30-minute guided tour of the Basilica; it’s offered in several languages. Check the website for tour times.
  • Theme Visit: Every Saturday at 2:30 pm, choose one of ten free theme visits to learn about various aspects of the Basilica including its Byzantine and Art Nouveau-inspired mosaics, stained glass, and the altarpieces.
  • Rooftop Visit: Go behind the scenes of the basilica and take a walk on the roof. The guided Rooftop Tour is free with the Lyon City Card or €10 without the card. Pre-booking is recommended. Check the website for dates and times.
  • Garden Walk: The beautifully landscaped Rosary Gardens include 1,400 meters of pathways.
  • View over Lyon: Enjoy the stunning view over Lyon.
Interior of La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière in Lyon showing the frescoed ceiling
Interior of La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière in Lyon

To visit the Basilica, take the Fourvière funicular to Vieux Lyon Saint Jean station. Find information about opening times on the website.

Museum of Confluences 

This giant of a building is worth seeing, even if you don’t go in: it’s that dynamic and eye-catching.

The Musée des Confluences (#5) includes a world-class collection of over two million objects from the fields of paleontology, mineralogy, entomology, ethnology, Egyptology, and technology and is divided into three areas: natural sciences, human sciences, and science and technology. 

 Musée des Confluences in Lyon
Musée des Confluences in Lyon is a must-see. Photo: Liz Reding

The museum is named both for its location at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône Rivers and for its explorations of the confluences between cultures, animals, and technology. 

This monument to modern architecture is a must-see in Lyon. Its detailed and fascinating exhibits are creatively curated. Set aside several hours to explore the many galleries.

Exterior View Photo: Tiqets.com
Gallery of animals Photo: Tiqets.com

The museum is free with the Lyon City Card or €9 per person without the card. Another option is to buy Skip-the-Line tickets in advance.

If you’d prefer to simply enjoy a magnificent view of the rivers and Lyon, you can access the observation deck free of charge.

My husband and I sometimes go into the building just to marvel at the structure. The museum looks completely different depending on your vantage point.

Take Tram T1 to Musée des Confluences. The museum is open Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday from 11 am to 7 pm, Thursday from 11 am to 10 pm, and Saturday, Sunday and public holidays from 10 am to 7 pm. For more information about special exhibitions, visit the museum’s website.

Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation

This sobering, reflective, and reverent collection is one example of how Lyon commemorates its role in the deportation of enemies of the state during World War II. 

The Centre d’histoire de la résistance et de la déportation (#6) is my favorite museum in Lyon. I love its artifacts and how they are presented.

Nearly every time I visit this museum, I encounter a group of students learning about this important time in their city’s history. I’m always struck by the attention they pay and the respect they show while listening to the guide explain the exhibits.

Admission is free with the Lyon City Card or €6 per person without the card.

Display at the Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation Photo: Liz Reding

The Centre is open Wednesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm. Take Tram T2 to Centre Berthelot stop or Metro Line B to Station Jean Macé. Find more information about special exhibitions on the museum’s website.

Musée Gadagne: Lyon History Museum 

Another favorite, the Musée Gadagne (#7) traces the history of the city from the Capital of the Gauls to the present. If you love urban planning and want to learn how Lyon got to where it is today, this museum is for you!  

I was surprised to learn that Lyon had the same mayor (Edouard Herriot) for over 50 years–from 1905 to 1940 and from 1945 to 1957. 

As you leave this exhibit, you’ll see a beautiful re-creation of a residential parlor during World War II and a film on the history of Lyon during the early 1900s. 

Re-creation of a parlor during World War II Photo: Liz Reding

The Lyon History Museum is located at 1 place du petit Collège and is open Wednesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 6:30 pm. Admission is free with the Lyon City Card or €8 per person without the card. For more information about special exhibitions, check the museum’s website.

Lumière Museum

The Institut Lumière (#8) museum celebrates the achievements of the Lumière brothers (Auguste and Louis) and is located in the house in which their family lived. 

Louis Lumière invented the Cinématograph in 1895 as well as various cameras and color and relief photographs. The first film was made in the garden of the house which, at the time, was the largest factory in Europe for the production of photographic plates. 

The Institut Lumière produces the annual Festival Lumière every October. If you’re interested in film, you’ll be dazzled by the silent films in this exhibit. The technology on display has been lovingly preserved.

This Lumière Museum is free with the Lyon City Card or €7 per person without the card.

Sign for the Institut Lumière Photo Credit: Liz Reding

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6:30 pm. For information about location and special exhibitions, check the website.

Tony Garnier Urban Museum 

The Tony Garnier Urban Museum (#9) outdoor museum is in the 8th arrondissement (district) of Lyon known as États-Unis (United States). The buildings within the district were designed by the architect Tony Garnier, who worked with long-time friend and Lyon mayor, Edouard Herriot. 

Garnier was responsible for much of the infrastructure in the City of Lyon. He designed the social housing development in the États-Unis. Somewhat of a rebel, Garnier wanted to explore new ways of thinking about how to solve modern housing problems. 

Huge murals on the ends of housing blocks have turned the area into an open-air art gallery. Many of these paintings incorporate optical illusions that draw you into the action – you can hardly determine what’s real and what’s not. Check in at the museum office to get a map and an audio guide to take with you as you tour the murals.

Here are some of the murals you’ll see in the neighborhood. All photos by Liz Reding.

Mural of a town seen from the air in Lyon
Large mural on the side of a buliding of a jumble of houses in a village in Lyon
Large mural of a buidling with a clock tower on the side of a building in Lyon
Mural showing the interior of a large dairy barn on the side of a building in Lyon

While most of this exhibit is outdoors, a highlight is the excellent indoor re-creation of a model apartment. You’ll find many tributes to Tony Garnier throughout Lyon.

The Tony Garnier Urban Museum is free with the Lyon City Card or €6 per person without the card.

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 2 pm to 6 pm and closes for three weeks in August. Take Tram T4 to Musée Tony Garnier on 4, rue des Serpollières.

Exploring Lyon’s Food Culture

Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse 

Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse (#10) is foodie heaven! And, even better, visiting Les Halle de Lyon is free. 

Fortunately, as we all know, food consumed on vacation doesn’t have any calories!

What kind of food will you find here? Buy bread, cheese, meat, fish, poultry, fresh produce, oils and vinegars, wine, and, of course, chocolates and pastries that will clog your arteries and make you happy.

You’ll also find a dizzying array of restaurants tucked in and around the shops. Exploring this amazing place and sampling what’s being served in the restaurants is part of the fun! 

Les Halle de Lyon – Paul Bocuse is located at 102 Cours Lafayette and open daily from 7 am to 10:30 pm. Access via Tram T1, stop Mairie du 3.

Huge pot of paella at a food stall in Les Halle de Lyon
A stall at Les Halle de Lyon – Paul Bocuse Photo: Liz Reding

Croix-Rousse Marché

Open every day except Monday, the Marché alimentaire de la Croix-Rousse (#11) is like no other. It’s huge and carries regular and bio (organic) produce. 

In addition to the Croix-Rousse Marche, you’ll find a market in every arrondissement in Lyon. Most markets start early in the morning and end around 1 pm.

One of the few markets that opens later in the day is located just above the Metro stop at Place Jean Jaures. This market is smaller than most but offers a wide selection of produce, cheese, and meat and is open Thursdays from 2 pm-7 pm.

What To Eat in Lyon

Hey, you’re in France! Eat lots of bread and pastry … and drink lots of wine! You’ll find boulangeries (bakeries) on nearly every street.

Do I have a favorite boulangerie? Well, some people say that the best boulangerie is the one that’s open and closest to you. I prefer the establishments with signs that say either boulanger or boulangerie, because the products are usually hand-made rather than frozen or pre-made and baked on-site. 

Shelf of fresh baked bread at a boulangerie in Lyon, France
A local boulangerie in Lyon Photo Credit: Liz Reding

You’ll have to do your own research to decide which boulangerie is the best. 

Purchase wine in any grocery store, even on Sundays. You’ll be astounded by the number of wine choices and how much fun they can be to sample! Of course, you can always find pricey wines, but don’t overlook the cheap stuff.

Our price point is €4 to €8 per bottle, and we’re never disappointed. Also, practice makes perfect!

Although full of attractions and interesting things to do, Lyon remains relatively undiscovered by tourists. You won’t find the museums crowded, and you shouldn’t have trouble finding great restaurants in which to enjoy Lyon’s famous cuisine.

Lyon is considered the capital of gastronomy in France.

No wonder my husband and I moved here.


Tours & Tickets in Lyon

Here are some tours and ticket options to consider when visiting Lyon.

Lyon Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Lyon!

Conclusion

Check out Liz Reding’s post about cooking classes in Paris and Lyon. And have you visited Lyon? Share your recommendations in the Comments below.

For more information about France, check out the France page and these posts:

Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris

Choosing the nine best small museums in Paris to feature in a post about my fave art museums is like choosing a favorite child. It’s impossible and shouldn’t be attempted! But I’m going to do it anyway in the hope of introducing you to some museums that you’ve not yet visited.

You’ll notice I’ve left the three biggies off my list: the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay and the Centre Pompidou. All three are über must-sees, and you’ll find information about them in this post that matches Parisian sights with bistro dishes from my novel Love Among the Recipes.

But the operative word in this post is small, some may even say obscure! You will find some fairly well-known museums on my list, but you may also find several that you have not heard of, let alone visited.

I’ve organized the museums by arrondissement, starting with the Orangerie in the 1st arrondissement and ending with the Marmottan Museum in the 16th arrondissement. The map belows shows the location of each museum.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

#1: The Orangerie

The Musée de l’Orangerie is not far from the Louvre and overlooks the Jardin des Tuileries. I always enjoy popping into the Orangerie to revisit one of the most compelling exhibitions in Paris.

Here, in two consecutive oval salons, you’ll view the eight large paintings that make up Les Nymphéas by Monet. Lit by natural light from the ceiling and oriented from west to east, the light follows the course of the sun.

Detail from a painting of waterlilies by Claude Monet

Monet helped to design these rooms in which his paintings are displayed. He wanted visitors to immerse themselves in the paintings and find solace in their beauty following the horrors of World War I. Monet certainly knew what he was about. Walking through the two salons of the Orangerie feels like being submersed in a cool, blue, calm oasis. As you can tell, I love this space!

Take a virtual tour of the Orangerie.

Visiting the Orangerie

Go to the Orangerie as early in the day as possible to avoid the crowds. Contemplating these incredible paintings is best done in quiet and solitude.

In the first salon, the four compositions depict the reflections of the sky and vegetation in the water from morning to evening. The colors vary from yellows and pinks to greens. I find the paintings the first salon both cheerful and soothing.

But my favorite is the second salon, where the dominant blues inspire a mood of intense calm. Relax on one of the benches and let the beauty of the pieces wash over you. You’ll almost feel as if you’re actually in nature, rather than simply looking at depictions of nature.

After viewing the water lily paintings, check out the rest of the Orangerie. The permanent collection includes works by most of the greats, including Renoir, Gauguin, Cézanne, and Sisley.

Special Exhibitions at the Orangerie

We’ve seen some beautifully curated special exhibitions at the Orangerie, most recently an exhibition of Spanish impressionists. Consult the website to see what’s on.

The Orangerie is located at the Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde. The closest Métro is Tuileries. Make sure to buy your ticket in advance so you can skip the line-up. The museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm daily except Tuesdays.

#2: Picasso Museum

Situated in the heart of Le Marais, the Musée National Picasso-Paris is home to over 5,000 works in a comprehensive collection that includes paintings, sculptures, and engravings.

Housed in the historic Hôtel Salé, a private mansion at 5 rue de Thorigny, the building has been described as “the grandest, most extraordinary, if not the most extravagant, of the grand Parisian houses of the 17th century”.

You’ll also see sketches, studies, drafts, notebooks, etchings, photographs, films, illustrated books, and other documents that demonstrate Picasso’s creative process.

If you’re a fan of modern art, and Picasso in particular, this beautiful museum will keep you well entertained and informed.

The Picasso Museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 10.30 am to 6 pm and weekends from 9.30 am to 6 pm. The museum is popular, so buy your ticket in advance.

#3: Cluny Museum

If I had to choose my favorite art museum in Paris, I would have to say the Musée de Cluny – Le monde médiéval, known colloquially as the Cluny. I enjoy it more than the three biggies for several reasons.

First, it’s manageable, unlike its larger cousins. You can tour the Cluny in an afternoon and still have energy to enjoy the lively 5th arrondissement. Spend an afternoon pacing the massive galleries at the Louvre and you’ll need an hour relaxing by a fountain in the Tuileries to recover.

Second, the Cluny features room after room of outlandishly awesome objets d’art from the Middle Ages–the historical period I most prefer.

Third, you’ll see the gorgeous Lady and the Unicorn tapestries woven from silk and wool in Paris around 1500. Admiring these six tapestries is worth the price of admission alone.

What to See at the Cluny

Take a seat in the special circular room that houses the tapestries and enjoy decoding how each of the first five tapestries depicts a different sense: taste, touch, smell, hearing, and sight. And what is the meaning of the sixth tapestry titled À mon seul désir? The jury’s still out, but some say the tapestry represents love.

The Lady and the unicorn Desire

The sixth tapestry: À mon seul désir Photo: Wikipedia

In addition to the tapestries, the Cluny offers amazing displays of wooden statues, stained glass, objects made from ivory, stone sculptures, and numerous household objects, furniture, paintings… the list goes on.

On one visit to the Cluny, I happened upon a concert of medieval choral music in the sculpture courtyard. Hearing that music while surrounded by the objects made during the same period was transporting. I love coming upon unexpected performances when I’m traveling in Europe. Keep your eyes peeled (as my Dad used to say). You’re bound to discover all sorts of opportunities to enjoy performances in some of your favorite museums and galleries.

Row of sculptures in the Cluny Museum in Paris, one of the best small museums in Paris
Sculptures in the marvelous Cluny Museum

Check the website to find out if concerts are scheduled when you’re in Paris. In the meantime, you can explore the collections at the Cluny on the museum’s comprehensive website.

The Cluny is located at 28 Rue du Sommerard. The closest Métros are Cluny-La Sorbonne, Saint-Michel, and Odéon.

#4: Zadkine Museum

The Musée Zadkine has been called a “folly” in the middle of Paris. On rue d’Assas in the 6th arrondissement and close to the Luxembourg Gardens and hip Montparnasse, the Zadkine Museum was once the studio of Ossip Zadkine (1890-1967), a sculptor of Russian origin.

The small exterior door leads you into a calm, green space that feels miles away from the bustle of Paris. You’ll find sculptures in a variety of media, including wood, stone, clay, and even bronze, along with graphic works and illustrations, photographs, tapestries, and archival material.

Musée Zadkine - Jardin

Sculpture by Zadkine at the Zadkine Museum. Photo: Wikipedia

Shortly before he died, Zadkine wrote, “But it is in any case very beautiful to end your life with a chisel and mallet in your hands.”

The Musée Zadkine is located at 100 bis Rue d’Assass and is open from 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday. The closest Métros are Notre-Dame des Champs and Vavin.

#5: Quai Branly Museum

Not far from the Eiffel Tower but still in the 7th arrondissement and close to the river, the spectacular Musée du Quai Branly Jacques Chirac is a must-see. I never tire of visiting this museum because there is such an incredible number of things (370,000 apparently) to ponder and enjoy.

The Quai Branly houses a remarkable collection of art and objects from around the globe organized into four geographical areas—Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas.

I love this museum’s attention to detail. Interactive screens set up in alcoves around the museum provide in-depth information about specific exhibits. You could spend weeks here and only scratch the surface.

Exterior of the Quai Branly Museum in Paris

The range and complexity of the objects displayed is a testament to human creativity through the ages. Set aside half a day to explore this incroyable museum.

Special exhibitions are also featured. On one visit, we saw an exhibition of Picasso’s collection of art from around the world, including Africa.

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 7:00 pm (Thursdays until 10:00 pm).

#6: Rodin Museum

The Musée Rodin in the 7th arrondissement is simply gorgeous. Housed in the magnificent Hôtel Biron and surrounded by three hectares of sculpture-studded gardens, the Musée Rodin celebrates the work of one of France’s premier sculptors.

Check out The Thinker perpetually contemplating life in the garden then go inside and marvel at the statue called The Kiss. Ooh la la! Wander through room after chandeliered room of sculptures—some marble, some plaster, some bronze. The sheer volume and range of work is overwhelming.

Rodin Museum in Paris, one of the best small museums in Paris.
Rodin Museum in Paris

The Musée Rodin is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6:30 pm.

#7: Musée Maillol

In a quiet area of the 7th arrondissement, the Musée Maillol is well known by Parisian art lovers for its special exhibitions but is not as well known by visitors. We’ve seen excellent exhibitions at the Maillol, including an collection of paintings by van Gogh and a spectacular display of paintings by Artemisia Gentileschi.

The exhibitions we’ve seen have featured several walls’ worth of information about the paintings—all in French. If you don’t read French, ask if a handout with an English translation is available.

The Musée Maillol was established by Dina Vierny, an artists’ model who became a famous singer, art dealer, collector, museum director, and Aristide Maillol’s muse for the final ten years of his life. The top floors of the Musée Maillol feature many works by Maillol, including monumental sculptures of female nudes. Maillol’s work is amazing and beautifully displayed. You’ll also find works by several 20th-century artists.

The Musée Maillol is open daily from 10:30 am to 6:30 pm when exhibitions are on (Fridays until 8:30 pm).

#8: Gustave Moreau Museum

The Musée National Gustave Moreau in the 9th arrondissement at the foot of Montmartre is quite the revelation. If you’re familiar with the work of the symbolist painter Moreau, you’ll know that you’re in for a treat. The museum occupies the painter’s family home and includes hundreds of paintings and watercolors showcasing the work of a painter many consider the master of French Symbolism.

Some of the paintings are massive and contain so much intricate detail that your eyes get sore just looking at them!

Gustave Moreau Salomé 1876

Salome by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia

Jupiter and Semele - Gustave Moreau

Jupiter and Semele by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia

The museum is open daily, except Tuesdays, from 10 am to 6 pm.

#9: Marmottan Museum

Located in the stylish 16th arrondissement, the Musée Marmottan Monet is one of the loveliest art museums in Paris. Highlights of the collection are the works by the impressionists Claude Monet and Berthe Morisot. In addition, you’ll see a collection from the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and the Second Empire, along with paintings by other impressionists, such as Caillebotte, Degas, Pissarro, Renoir, Sisley, and Rodin.

Berthe Morisot, who painted The Sisters shown above, is one of the artists frequently exhibited at The Marmottan

The Marmottan is a bit of a trek from the Metro (La Muette or Ranelagh) but worth the effort required to get there. It features a great museum shop (I’m a sucker for a good museum shop).

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (last admission: 5.30 pm), with extended hours to 9 pm on Thursdays (last admission: 8.30 pm).

Conclusion

Have you been to any of these art museums in Paris? Do you have other suggestions for artsy travelers? Share your recommendations in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts about art in Paris:

Top Normandy Sights to Excite Art & History Lovers

Normandy has many wonderful sights to offer the artsy traveler. Here you’ll find charming villages, beaches steeped in history, quirky museums, and a tapestry for the ages.

Spend at least a week in Normandy to explore its long coastline and rolling fields dotted with grey church spires. 

View Post

Map of France: Normandy

The map below shows the locations of the artsy sightseeing favorites mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.

Artist-In-Residence in Normandy

A few years ago, Gregg and I spent two months at an artist-in-residence place called Les Rouges en Vert in the tiny village of Soligny-la-Trappe in the Perche region of France. When we weren’t painting (Gregg) and writing (me), we spent many hours exploring a region of France that’s both stunningly beautiful and that has played an outsized role in the history of western Europe.

Here are a few shots of our time at Les Rouges en Vert where Gregg had a painting studio and an exhibition and where I worked on my novel, The Towers of Tuscany.

Normandy is home to more than thirty World Heritage Sites, including Honfleur, Mont St. Michel, the cliffs of Étretat, Caen, and Bayeux, all of which are covered in this post.

List of Must-see Sights in Normandy

Must-sees include, from east to west:

  • Stunning chalk cliffs at Étretat
  • Charming Honfleur for the Satie Museum
  • World War II beaches
  • Historic Bayeux for the Bayeux Tapestry
  • Perche Region
  • Mont St. Michel

Cliffs at Étretat

These iconic chalk cliffs captivated Monet, and they’ll likely captivate you. On a clear day, the white cliffs, needles, and arches shimmer in the famous Normandy light. No wonder Monet painted so many views.

Climb to the top of the cliffs from either end of the beautiful sandy beach to enjoy better views than you’ll get from the beach below. The paths and steps are steep with few hand railings. Vertigo sufferers are advised to admire the cliffs from the beach.

Panoramic landscape of the famous cliff of Etretat, Normandy, France
Panoramic landscape of the famous cliffs of Étretat, Normandy, France

The resort town of Étretat (#1), with its half-timbered houses and outdoor cafés, is a wonderful place to enjoy lunch before or after climbing to the top of the cliffs. You’ll find resort-style shops and even a casino on the beach.

Honfleur

Visit Honfleur (#2) to see where many of the impressionist painters were inspired, including Monet, Renoir, Courbet, Pissarro, and native son Eugène Boudin who has a whole museum dedicated to his work.

Honfleur is fabulous! As an artist, Gregg was captivated by the same luminous light that attracted the impressionists. The town’s dedication to the arts continues, with many art galleries lining the streets of the old town.

The other big attraction, since we love music, is the quirky Satie Museum.

Satie Museum

Known as the Maisons Satie (#3), the Erik Satie Museum ranks high on our list of favorite music museums. The museum occupies the entire house in which Satie was born in 1866. Satie was a composer from the early 20th century, a compatriot of Debussy, and active in the Dada movement.

When you enter the museum, you’re given an audio guide that takes you on a sonic and sensory journey unlike any I’ve experienced. Put on the headphones, then walk into any room to trigger a range of music, light, image, and sound effects. The museum even includes a leg-powered merry-go-round to pedal to the accompaniment of Satie’s music.

Gregg rides the music and leg-powered merry-go-round in the Satie Museum
Gregg rides the music- and leg-powered merry-go-round in the Satie Museum

Musée Eugène Boudin

Close to the Satie Museum is the Musée Eugène Boudin (#4). This large museum is worth an hour or two of your time to admire paintings by not only Boudin but also many of his impressionist compatriots, including Claude Monet and Berthe Morisot (one of my favorites).

The museum also exhibits clothes and furniture, photographs from 1880 to 1920, a cool collection of more than 100 tourist posters from 1880 to 1950 advertising the delights of Normandy, and even antique toys.

Staying in Honfleur

Stay two nights so you’ll have lots of time to wander the old town and enjoy the Vieux Bassin (#5), where tall, skinny houses rise above a sea of fishing boats and masts.

Honfleur Harbour, Normandy, France.
Honfleur Harbour – Vieux Bassin in Normandy, France

Pull up a chair at one of the many outdoor cafés lining the Vieux Bassin, order moulesfrites (mussels and fries), and watch the world go by.

Honfleur is a popular tourist spot with several good accommodation options for staying a night or two. We stayed at the very comfortable Hotel L’Ecrin.

Another option is to make Honfleur your home base for a longer stay in the area. The location is convenient for driving to Caen, the D-Day beaches and Bayeux to the west, and the cliffs at Étretat to the east.

World War II Beaches

Today, the windswept Normandy beaches invite long walks on golden sands, face upturned to a blue sky arched over white-capped waves. I hadn’t expected the area to be so beautiful, considering the devastation it witnessed just a handful of decades ago.

Caen Memorial Museum

Make your first stop the Caen Memorial Museum (#6) near Caen to learn about the D-Day invasion from the point of view of both the Allied and the German soldiers.

Reserve a few hours to browse the comprehensive exhibition of artifacts and films. You’ll leave with a deeper understanding of the Battle of Normandy.

Caen Memorial Museum
Caen Memorial Museum in Normandy

Proceed to at least one of the beaches. We chose Juno Beach, where the Canadians landed on June 6, 1944. If you’re from the United States, you’ll want to see Omaha and Utah beaches farther west.

Visiting Juno Beach

At Juno Beach (#7), a thoughtfully curated museum provides a Canadian perspective on the war and on the invasion.

Most poignant was a film showing a continuous stream of names in alphabetical order of the men who landed on Juno. We knew one of the men and waited for his name to come up, but there were so many that we realized we’d have to wait a long time to see his.

It’s sobering to realize that each name belongs to a young man who, even if he’d survived, would be forever plagued by trauma.

The 54-mile stretch of coastline from Utah Beach in the west to Sword Beach in the east is awash in WWII museums, memorials, cemeteries, and battle remains from the largest military operation in history. You could easily spend several days in the area.

Sign pointing to Omaha Beach in Normandy
Direction sign of Omaha Beach in Normandy
Sign pointing to Juno Beach in Normandy
Direction sign of Juno Beach in Normandy

Bayeux

I was thrilled to finally visit the museum housing the famous Bayeux (#8) Tapestry–La Tapisserie de Bayeux (#9). If you’re fascinated by the story of the invasion of England by the Normans in 1066, then you’ll enjoy this fine museum.

The 70-meter-long tapestry is displayed on a special round spool that you walk around to the accompaniment of an excellent audio guide. In the darkened room, only the tapestry is lit. Follow the progress of the invasion—the boats and horses and helmeted men wielding swords.

The story told by the tapestry begins in 1064, when Edward the Confessor, King of England, tells his brother-in-law, Harold Godwinson, to go to Normandy and offer his cousin, William, the succession to the English throne. The story ends with the Anglo-Saxons fleeing at the end of the Battle of Hastings in October 1066, although the last bit of the tapestry is missing.

Description of the Bayeux Tapestry Museum

The tapestry contains 58 scenes, 626 characters, and 202 horses.

What intrigued me about the Bayeux Tapestry was that it was created by women. Some historians maintain that the women embroiderers of Kent did the stitching. How did these women feel about telling the story of their invaders? How did they make the designs?

Some of these questions are answered in the film and museum exhibits you’ll see after viewing the tapestry.

The museum is open daily, 9:00 am to 6:30 pm, from February 1st to December 31st. From May to August, the museum remains open until 7:00 pm.

After touring the museum, wander around Bayeux’s quaint streets and pop into the massive Bayeux Cathedral that dominates the skyline. The Bayeux Tapestry was commissioned by Bishop Odo, half-brother of William the Conqueror, to adorn the cathedral where, for centuries, the tapestry was displayed once each year.

Water mill and Aure River in the old city of Bayeux
Water mill and Aure River in the attractive town of Bayeux

Perche Region

This pleasant area of rolling green hills, thousands of white cows, and grey-steepled churches is not a tourist mecca. It is, however, a popular place for wealthy Parisians to have second homes—and no wonder. The countryside is achingly gorgeous.

Drive around the quiet country roads past lakes and forests and visit some of the charming towns, including Alençon (#10), Argentan (#11), the cathedral at Sées (#12), and L’Aigle (#13). Get out of the car and go walking, make friends with the cows, and visit the Perche Natural Regional Park.

Carol Cram in the Perche countryside in Normandy
Enjoying a walk in the Perche countryside

For Canadians, particularly those of French descent, a visit to the Museum of French Emigration to Canada in Tourouvre is worthwhile. Many of the people who populated Quebec in the 17th century came from the Perche region. The museum tells their story.

Here are pictures of the countryside surrounding the place where Gregg and I did a two-month artist-in-residence stint a few years ago.

Cathedral at Sées
Lots of white cows in Normandy
Enjoying a picnic in the countryside
Golden fields of rapeseed

Mont St. Michel

Floating off the Normandy coast on the border of Brittany, Mont St. Michel will make you smile.

Mont Saint Michel in Normandy, France
Approaching Mont St. Michel in Normandy, France

Is it real? Did people from centuries ago actually brave the tortuous tides to build the massive, stone-walled abbey?

Indeed, they did, and since its founding in 966, Mont St. Michel (#14) has attracted pilgrims and now tourists. Its tiny cobbled streets are clogged with souvenir shops and crowds, but visit anyway. The views of the swirling waters from the ramparts of the abbey are breathtaking.

Park in the new car parks located about 1.5 miles from the island and walk to the Place des Navettes to catch a shuttle bus (passeur) across the causeway to the island.

You can also walk across the causeway to the island. Once there, you’ll climb the steep streets to the abbey. Buy tickets in advance to skip the line.

Inside, you’ll find peaceful cloisters, the soaring Gothic church, and one of the grand chambers, known as The Marvel because it clings spectacularly to the rock.

Traveling To and Around Normandy

Normandy is best explored with a car or on a tour from Paris. A good strategy is to pick up a rental car outside of Paris at Charles de Gaulle Airport and then head west into Normandy for at least a week.

On your way to the locations described in this post, stop off in Rouen to view the magnificent cathedral—one of Monet’s favored subjects.

Tours in Normandy

If you choose not to drive in Normandy, consider taking a tour. Here are options through Tiquets.com:

And here are some options for tours in Normandy with GetYourGuide:

Powered by GetYourGuide

Conclusion

Have you visited Normandy? Do you have artsy and historic sites to recommend? Please share your experiences with other artsy travelers in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts to read next to help you plan and enjoy your time in France:

Take a Cooking Class in Paris

Have you considered taking a cooking class while traveling in France? Paris is the place for cooking classes, but you’ll also find classes in other French cities such as Lyon.

Several years ago, guest poster Liz Reding moved with her husband Michael to France and settled in the charming city of Lyon. Every few months, she and Michael take trips to explore different areas in Europe.

Picture of Liz Reding, the guest poster with a meal in Spain
Guest poster Liz Reding enjoying paella in Spain; Photo credit: Liz Reding

One of the things Liz likes to do when she travels around Europe from her new French home is to take cooking classes. 

Here’s what Liz has to say about taking cooking classes in Paris and Lyon.

Cooking in France by Liz Reding

Is cooking art? If you’ve ever seen a great chef at work or eaten a beautifully plated meal, I think you’ll agree that cooking is an art form.

Maybe you love to cook, maybe you don’t … but you have to eat, right? So, doesn’t it make sense to spend time perfecting your cooking skills?

Some might say, YES… but not while I’m on vacation. I say, YES, especially while I’m on vacation! 

The quality of the local produce, cheese, seafood, and meat in French markets is outstanding. When you take a class taught by a local chef at a cooking school, you learn how to use local ingredients to prepare regional favorites.

Cooking Classes in Paris

Thanks to the ongoing popularity of French cuisine and French cooking, several culinary schools offer short-duration classes designed for travelers.

Paris is the undisputed center for cooking classes in France. Consider spending a morning or an evening taking a class. You’ll meet interesting people and learn new skills and cooking methods.

Eiffel Tower in Paris
Eiffel Tower in Paris

Several kinds of cooking classes are available in Paris. In some classes, you focus on how to make specific dishes, such as macarons or baguettes, while in others, you cook several dishes which you then enjoy along with a glass or two of wine.

The Market Class

My favorite type of cooking class is the Market Class

Choose a market class that starts early in the morning and includes lunch or one that starts later in the afternoon and includes dinner.

You’ll start a market class by meeting up with the chef at a local outdoor market. With the help of the chef, you’ll choose whatever is seasonally available and then return to the kitchen to start cooking. 

Several hours later, you’ll sit down to the wonderful three-course lunch or dinner that you and your classmates prepared. A glass or two of wine is often included, along with wine-tasting tips.

In some market classes, the chef decides ahead of time what you’ll make. You pick up the ingredients and then head to the cooking school to start learning and cooking. No surprises! 

Seafood in a Paris market; photo credit: Liz Reding

Other classes take more of a let’s see what we can find approach. You go to the market with the chef and see what’s fresh.

Will it be crayfish or lamb? New asparagus or an oozing camembert? Fresh tomatoes from Provence or foie gras from the Dordogne?

The chef accompanies you around the stalls and helps you make the selections.

Either type of class is a wonderful experience, but the laissez-faire version is more exciting and a test of the chef’s ability to create a yummy menu on the fly. 

If you have a food allergy or other dietary restrictions, let the chef know. He or she will either tell you how to modify the recipe or will provide an alternative.  

Recommendations in Paris & Lyon

I’ve taken four cooking classes in Paris (a baguette-making class and three market classes) as well as in Lyon, France, where I live. All the classes were conducted in English.

In the French baguette class, I learned an important lesson—read the reviews of the cooking class before you sign up! Two of the three ovens weren’t working which made the experience less enjoyable than it could have been.

Fresh baguettes made in the baguette class; Photo credit: Liz Reding

Nevertheless, I did learn how to make baguettes the old-fashioned way by smacking the dough against a granite surface. In my kitchen at home, I was able to adapt the baguette recipe and make it in my mixer with a dough hook. The results were fabulous!

Some of the cooking techniques I learned in cooking classes were fun but not useful. For example, I learned how to strain potatoes through a screen, but why would I want to? 

No matter what type of class you take or where you take it, you’ll always learn new techniques and new recipes. And at the end of the class, you can relax and enjoy the meal you helped make, often with people from around the world.

Paris Cooking Classes

Here are the three cooking schools I attended in Paris. Typically, a cooking class that includes a meal costs between €150 and €200 per person. Some cooking schools offer group rates. If you’re traveling with a group, you may be able to save money by booking a private class.

Cook’n with Class – Market class

La Cuisine – Baguette class

Le Foodist – Market class

Lyon Cooking Class

Plum Lyon – Market class

I highly recommend adding a cooking class to your itinerary.

If you’re really into cooking classes, consider going on a cooking retreat. Plenty of options are available in places such as Tuscany and Provence.

About Liz Reding

Liz Reding is a retired computer textbook author who lives in Lyon, France. Born in Manhattan and having lived in Boston and New Mexico (Santa Fe and Albuquerque), she and her husband are discovering the joys of traveling and exploring the world. She enjoys learning French, cycling, and cooking nutritious meals. 

Conclusion

Have you taken a cooking class while traveling? You can find them all over the world! I took a cooking class in Rome that I write about in Cooking in Roma with InRome Cooking.

Share your experiences in the comments below.

And here’s some more inspiration for cooking classes in Japan, Morocco, and Madrid.