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Should You Make the Climb to the Acropolis of Athens?

October 31, 2024November 21, 2024Destinations, Greece carolcram 12 Comments

Last updated on November 21st, 2024 at 04:32 am

Ah, the Acropolis of Athens! The Acropolis is the pinnacle of Greek culture and a mecca for cultural travel. It’s both a graceful monument to the old gods and a tourist attraction famed for the number of visitors willing to risk heatstroke to see it in all its rubble-strewn glory.

Of all the many ancient ruins scattered across Greece, the most famous by far are the imposing collection of temples perched atop the hill in the middle of Athens.

The hill is called the Acropolis and the big temple in the middle is called the Parthenon, but people often use the two terms interchangeably.

Overview of the Acropolis of Athens

The Acropolis of Athens inspires millions of visitors every year to make the long trek from the ticket office to the temples, puffing up stone steps that go on forever (or at least feel like they do). There is no shade; for several months of the year, the sun can be life threatening; and you make the trek with thousands of fellow visitors.

Unless you’re visiting in the depths of winter, forget romantic thoughts of strolling up the steps in solitary communion with the ancient Greeks.

I’m actually surprised so many people visit the Acropolis of Athens. And yet they do. Thousands upon thousands of them visit every day—young and not so young, fit and definitely not fit, and from all over the world. The Acropolis is the must-see hit of Athens.

You can’t go to Athens and not climb to the Acropolis. Not to do so is probably illegal.

Read on for more about my experience and my recommendations for comfortably visiting the Acropolis of Athens and the must-see Acropolis Museum.

When It’s Too Hot to Visit the Acropolis of Athens

Officials sometimes close the Acropolis on summer afternoons when temperatures soar to the high forties Celsius. I can’t even imagine how hot that must feel. With no shade on the way up, such high temperatures plus bare rocks equal a searing experience.

If you’re visiting on a particularly hot and crowded day in the summer, I recommend just admiring the Acropolis from afar. Why risk heat stroke?

Instead, visit the wonderful (and air conditioned) Acropolis Museum, enjoy a leisurely lunch, do some shopping, and maybe take a peek at some of the lesser-known and much less crowded ruins. You’ll still see the Acropolis from just about anywhere you walk in central Athens. Let that be enough.

Here are some tours from Tiqets.com that don’t include the Acropolis!

Visiting the Acropolis of Athens in the Late Afternoon

When the heat is manageable, consider visiting the Acropolis in the late afternoon. The crowds start to thin out, the temperature starts to cool, and sunset is imminent.

Here’s what I did during a visit with my daughter in mid-September.

Visit to the Acropolis in September

We arrive at the ticket area at 4:30 pm to find that tickets for the 4:45 time slot are sold out, with the next available time slot being 5:45 pm.

If you go in the late afternoon, you may be lucky, like we are, and only wait an hour to get in. If, however, you are visiting at other times of the day or during the summer, buy your tickets online several days before your visit.

To Combo or Not to Combo?

Your big decision when buying your ticket to the Acropolis is whether you should buy a single or a combo ticket. The single ticket costs €20 and the combo ticket costs €30.

The single ticket only gets you into the Acropolis & Slopes within a 30-minute time frame from 15 minutes before to 15 minutes after your selected time slot.

The combo ticket gets you into the Acropolis & Slopes at your appointed time and into the Ancient Agora, Hadrian’s Library, Kerameikos, Aristotle’s School [Lyceum], Olympieion, and the Roman Agora anytime within five days of the ticket date.

With only a day and a half in Athens, we decide to throw caution to the wind and buy the combo tickets. I figure that for the extra €10, we’re bound to visit at least one of the other sites. Most of them cost around €10, so we only have to visit one additional site to get our money’s worth.

We visit the Ancient Agora the day after our visit to the Acropolis, so for us, the combo ticket paid for itself, just. Here’s the fabulous Temple of Hephaestus in the Agora.

I recommend you buy the combo ticket if you think you’ll have time to explore other sites. The Ancient Agora is definitely worth a visit.

Here’s a link to the official ticket site.

Waiting to Enter the Acropolis

After buying combo tickets, we go in search of a café to have a drink while we wait. My daughter, Julia, chooses a donut that look like it will be a tasty, if indulgent, treat. Unfortunately, it’s drier than a vat of pixie dust. We should complain and get our €3.50 back. But I don’t have the heart since the server was so cheery when she seated us. We leave the donut virtually untouched and return to the ticket office.

NOTE: Avoid the string of cafés a few steps from the entrance to the Acropolis. There are many better places to eat in the nearby Plaka district.

Joining the Line to the Acropolis of Athens

We arrive back at the line at 5:30 and join the queue. There are quite a few people, but not so many that we feel overwhelmed. Precisely at 5:45, the turnstiles open and the line moves with surprising briskness.

Soon we’re through and ready to begin the long climb up to one of the world’s most iconic sites.

OMG! I’m at the Acropolis! Socrates walked here. Plato pontificated here. Centuries of worshippers made their way across these very slick stones to climb to the temples and worship the gods.

It’s one of those “pinch me” moments that make travel worthwhile.

Have you been to the Acropolis in Athens?

Oh yes. It was marvelous.

Fortunately, most people move quite slowly, what with stopping every two meters to snap pictures, so the climb feels less strenuous than it would be if the place were empty. Every few steps, we get to pause, admire the view, and catch our breath. I listen to a Rick Steves audio commentary as I climb and learn all sorts of interesting things about what I’m seeing. I recommend Rick’s commentaries—they’re fun, informative, and not boring.

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus

On the way up to the Acropolis, we pass the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. It’s a superb open-air theater with seating for 5,000 spectators that is still used for performances. Built in 161 AD, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus has hosted stars such as Elton John, Pavarotti, Frank Sinatra, and Sting.

**Caption**: Odeon of Herodes Atticus on the Acropolis Slopes

Slowly, slowly we climb up and up until we face the entrance to the Acropolis—enormous pillars soaring into the cloud-studded Athenian sky. I am suitably awed and snap away happily.

Massive columns at the entrance to the Acropolis in Athens — Approaching the entrance to the Acropolis in Athens

What’s Up Top at the Acropolis of Athens?

When, finally, we make it to the top, all of Athens is laid at our feet which is pretty danged spectacular. We’re also standing in the shadow of the mighty Parthenon which, despite the scaffolding and the missing columns, is magnificent. It’s the very definition of iconic.

People are everywhere but it’s not difficult to crop them out of pictures, and everyone is in good spirits. After all, they’re in the midst of crossing a major experience off their bucket lists. Also, the temperature at around 28 C degrees with a nice breeze and the sun fast setting is just about perfect.

Parthenon on the Acropolis in Athens — The front façade of the Acropolis

Warning: No Disrespecting Allowed

Resist the temptation to engage in any shenanigans while touring the Acropolis. Guards patrol the perimeter on the lookout for anyone daring to make light of Greece’s national treasures. They frown on people mugging for the camera with excessively silly poses or acting in any way disrespectfully.

Temple of Erechtheion at the Acropolis of Athens

The beautiful temple of Erechtheion with its columns made from the figures of women is a highlight of the Acropolis. The original statues are in the Acropolis Museum. The statues you’ve climbed up to see are reproductions.

But the temple is still wonderful! Who cares that most of it was rebuilt in modern times?

The Temple of Erechtheion on the Acropolis

The Parthenon

The main activity at the top of the Acropolis is walking around the Parthenon and snapping pictures of it, the other temples and the view of Athens from every angle. You can eavesdrop on tour groups or listen to an audio guide to learn more about the site, or you can just look and enjoy.

The attraction of the place is its hold over our collective imaginations. The Acropolis of Athens symbolizes much of what is good in western culture as defined by the ancient Greeks. Their contributions to medicine, theater, literature, language, architecture, sculpture, and a whole lot of other useful pursuits have lasted millennia. The world owes a lot to the Greeks, and the Acropolis of Athens stands proud witness to that debt.

We circle the Parthenon, admiring its perfect dimensions and lamenting its sorry state of disrepair. Over the millennia, it was bombed by the Venetians, had a mosque built inside of it by the Ottomans, and had bits of it removed by a certain British lord whose name begins with E.

Many Greeks are not happy that their “Elgin” marbles are still in the British Museum. I hope they get them back one day so they can be installed in the gorgeous new Acropolis Museum that we visit next.

Sunset Over Athens

The sun is starting to sink over Athens and the guards start ushering people towards the exit. Although the Acropolis is supposed to stay open until 8 PM, that’s not exactly the case. I suppose they want everyone off before darkness falls which, considering the roughness of some of the steps, is a good idea.

The journey back down the slopes of the Acropolis is much easier than the journey up. Before long, we’re back in front of the Acropolis Museum.

Because it’s a Friday, the museum is open until 10 PM. Visiting it after an early evening climb to the Acropolis makes a perfect ending to an Acropolis outing.

Accessing the Acropolis via Elevator

If you are not able to climb the many, many steps to the Acropolis, you may be able to use the elevator. Thank you to a commenter on this post for reminding me that an elevator is available. Note that access is strictly controlled. You need to prove you are disabled, and should call ahead to check availability. The number is +30 210 3214172 or +30 210 9238470

The ride up takes just 32 seconds!

Visiting the Acropolis Museum

This museum is an Athens must-see. It’s brand new and gorgeous and is equally awesome whether visited before or after climbing to the Acropolis. And if the weather and crowds prevent you from making the climb, the Acropolis Museum is a fine consolation prize.

Entrance to the Acropolis Museum in Athens

The three floors of the museum are large and airy with beautifully curated displays of artifacts from the Acropolis of Athens. In addition, informative videos, and lots of information in English, bring Greek history to life. Allow at least two hours to tour the museum.

A highlight for me are the original statues from the Temple of Erechtheion. The details in the robes and hair of the women are astonishing.

On the top floor, you can see great views of the Acropolis. Since we are visiting in the evening, the floodlit ruins appear to float in the night sky.

Floodlit view of the Acropolis from the Acropolis Museum

Also on the top floor is the glass-encased “Parthenon Gallery” on which the relief sculptures of the Parthenon frieze are exhibited in continuous sequence around all four sides, mimicking the real Parthenon. While most of the sculptures were long ago plundered by Lord Elgin, enough remain to give an idea of the splendor of the original building.

Portion of the frieze exhibited in the Acropolis Museum in Athens

Plenty of information is provided to help visitors visualize the original friezes as well as understand the significance of the sculpted figures. It’s a pretty cool experience to walk around the four sides of the massive structure on the top floor, occasionally glancing out the window to see the real Parthenon rising into an indigo sky from the moonlit Acropolis.

On the ground floor, wide expanses of glass that you can walk over allow you to view the active archaeological dig below ground.

When to Visit the Acropolis Museum in Athens

I highly recommend visiting the Acropolis Museum in the evening, if possible. We pretty much had the place to ourselves for the entire visit. Earlier in the day, the museum can get very crowded because people often go to the Acropolis first and then visit the museum.

Here are some options for purchasing tickets to the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum.

Where to Stay in Athens

On my recent trip to Athens, I stayed in two places–a holiday apartment for two nights and a hotel for one night. I can highly recommend both places.

Karma Athens: Located on a quiet street just around the corner from the lively Plaka district, Karma Apartments was the perfect place to stay in Athens. Our one-bedroom apartment included a private terrace that featured a peek-a-boo view of the Acropolis. The building contains only holiday lets so it’s more like a hotel, but without a reception. However, there was an attendant there when we arrived early who kindly stored our luggage until the apartment was ready and then carried it up to our apartment on the top floor. The stairs were steep but the climb was worth it.

Hotel Lozenge: This business hotel located in the high-end Kolonaki area of Athens, and within easy walking distance of most of what you’d want to see in Athens, is clean and modern with a friendly staff and an attached bar-restaurant. We stayed one night before flying home the next morning, and it was an excellent end-of-trip choice.

Conclusion

The Acropolis of Athens is a definite must-see if you can avoid risking heatstroke or standing in long lines for hours on end. Go late in the afternoon, if possible, scheduling your visit to the Acropolis Museum for when the museum is open late, and take your time. It’s likely you’ll only make the climb up to the Acropolis once or twice in your life. Make sure the experience is one you look back on with fondness, remembering the thrill of treading in the footsteps of the ancients rather than the tedium of inching painfully across sun-baked stones.

Have you visited the Acropolis in Athens? Share your experience and recommendations in the Comments below.

How To Spend Two Wonderful Days in Charming Nafplion in Greece

October 23, 2024November 21, 2024Destinations, Greece, Other carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on November 21st, 2024 at 04:42 am

I highly recommend including at least two or three nights in Nafplion in your Greek itinerary. It’s a truly delightful place, with narrow streets in the old town, great views of the sea, and relatively few crowds. During a 16-day trip around Greece, I stayed three nights in Nafplion and could easily have stayed longer.

Compared to Santorini, Nafplion feels deserted. One reason is that the large cruise ships don’t come here. As a result, most visitors either pop in for a quick visit on a tour from Athens, or stay a night or two. Many use the town as a home base to explore nearby ancient sites.

In this post, I share my suggestions for spending three nights and two full days in Nafplion with one day devoted to a tour of Mycenae, Corinth, and Epidaurus.

Overview of Nafplion, Greece

Nafplion, also known as Nafplio and Nafplia, was the capital of Greece from 1828 to 1834. Back in the 15^th century, Venice conquered the region and left behind three formidable fortresses—one high atop an imposing cliff that looms over the town, one on a peninsula not visible from the town, and one out in the harbor.

Floodlit at night, the two fortresses visible from the seafront add a romantic touch to this elegant little town.

Arrival in Nafplion

After a three-hour ferry ride from Naxos to Piraeus (check out my post about our three nights on beautiful Naxos), we take a private transfer to Nafplion, a two-hour drive on a mostly empty highway. The driver drops us off in the little square above our place and points down a narrow alleyway.

Your place is down there.

Okay… We trundle down the narrow street to another narrow street flanked with souvenir stores and look around hopefully. Julia spies the name of the apartment high up on a wall: 99 Dream Vacations. Now all we need to do is get in.

Accommodations in Nafplion

I text our host and, to my relief, she rounds the corner into our street minutes later and lets us into a beautiful apartment complete with high wood-beamed ceilings, a comfortable living room and two bedrooms. The kitchen is stocked with provisions for breakfast—tubs of creamy Greek yogurt, along with eggs, fruit, bread, and enough coffee pods to keep me well caffeinated for the entire stay.

I highly recommend 99 Dream Vacations if you’re looking for a centrally located and reasonably priced apartment. Here are photos of the living room and adjacent dining room.

Getting to Know Nafplion

On our first evening in Nafplion, we wander around the cute streets, all brightly lit until late in the evening, and share a very tasty pizza at a café overlooking the Bourtzi fortress in the harbor. As usual, the service is efficient and friendly. During our entire 16-day trip in Greece, we never once experienced poor service.

After dinner, we treat ourselves to an Italian gelato at a gelateria reputed to serve the best gelato in Greece. The server greets us in Italian, and the gelato is indeed excellent. Several hundred years of Venetian occupation have left their mark on Nafplion.

First Full Day in Nafplion

Our first full day in Nafplion is a semi-down day with very little planned beyond taking a cooking class at 5 pm. Nafplion is a charming and walkable town, but it’s fairly low on sights.

I recommend checking out the Archeological Museum and the Venetian Fortress of Palamidi perched high above the town, and then spending the rest of the day relaxing, shopping, eating, and strolling (not necessarily in that order).

Archeological Museum

After breakfast, we head to the Archeological Museum to learn all about the early inhabitants of the area—some dating back 30,000 years. This is a very old part of the world!

The Archeological Museum of Nafplion is well organized and compact and definitely worth a visit if you are interested in ancient history (and hey, you’re in Greece!). The permanent collection includes artifacts dating from the Paleolithic period to Roman times. The most important exhibits are associated with the Mycenaean centers of the region.

All the exhibits include informative English captions. I particularly like the collections of pots, including a well-preserved Octopus pot.

Pots in the Nafplio Archeological Museum

Octopus pot in the Nafplio Archeological Museum

A highlight of the museum is a suit of bronze armor that was found in a chamber tomb dating fthe 15th century BC. Check out the boar tooth helmet. Imagine how many boars gave their lives to make that helmet.

Armor in the Nafplio Archeological Museum

I also snap a picture of three reconstructed theatrical masks. As a former theater major (back in the day, I got my Master’s in theatre from the University of Toronto), I have a soft spot for Greek theater and am looking forward to our visit to the ancient Greek theater at Epidaurus.

Theatrical masks in the Nafplio Archeological Museum

Tourist Train in Nafplion

With the clouds threatening rain, we set off after our visit to the Archeological Museum to find the hop- on-hop-off tour bus that will, according to the guidebook, take us up to the fort. We could climb the 999 steps from the town to the top, but we won’t.

At the bus stop, we discover a little tourist train next to a sign advertising a 20-minute meander around the town. With 30 minutes to spare before the hop-on-hop-off bus arrives, we decide to give the tourist train a whirl.

Feeling like toddlers on a day trip, we clamber into the train which sets off at a painfully sedate pace. My great-grandma could walk faster. The English commentary is not particularly compelling and the only charming streets we putter down are ones we’ve already walked along.

At one point, we squeeze past the café where we had breakfast. We want to sink through the floor as the server catches our eye and kind of smirks as if to say, Really? You fell for the tourist train tour? Don’t you know it sucks?

She is right. For the next twenty minutes, we chug along, often stuck for several minutes in traffic with nothing to see either side but graffiti-scrawled walls and kids playing volleyball at the local high school. The train circles through the modern part of the town which doesn’t have much to recommend it, with some vistas appallingly ugly.

View of graffiti from the train tour in Nafplio — Not all of Nafplion is charming

Finally, excruciatingly, we arrive back at the parking area only to discover that the bus has already left. So much for that plan! But no matter; the skies have been steadily darkening and we feel a few raindrops. Rather than go up to the fort where the main attraction is views of the sea, we decide to head back to our lovely two-bedroom apartment for some R & R.

I write for a while, nap for a while, and around three o’clock, the skies clear and we venture out again.

Fortress of Palamidi

We have two hours before we need to be at our cooking class, so we catch a taxi up to the fort. The driver says he’ll return for us in one hour and that we can pay him then. I’d read that the taxi ride from the town to the fortress should cost about 10 euros so I figure that I may as well give him my 20 euros for a round trip rather than take my chances that a taxi will be available when we emerge from the fort.

We wave a cheery good-bye to the driver and set off to explore the Venetian fort. There’s not much left of the fort itself, but the views are jaw-droppingly stunning.

We clamber and climb, snapping picture after picture of views that go on forever. It’s a wonderful place to visit—a Nafplion must-see for sure.

After much climbing and snapping and spending a few minutes to enjoy a drink at the tiny concession inside the fort while gazing at the view, we exit the fort precisely one hour after we arrived and find our driver waiting.

After a few wrong turns, he drops us off at Savor Nafplio Cooking School a few minutes before 5 pm. He also charges us 40 euros for a round trip that should have cost 20 euros. But what to do? I hand over the cash and chalk it up to one of the few times we are ripped off in Greece.

The cooking class is a must-do! See my post all about it.

Second Full Day in Nafplion

We’re up early on our second full day in Nafplion to take a small group tour of the major archeological sites in the area: Mycenae, Corinth and Epidaurus. I’ve read about these places for decades and seen pictures, so I’m beyond excited to finally see them in real life, especially the ancient theater of Epidaurus.

A few minutes before 9 am, we walk into the small square near our apartment and meet our driver, George. To our delight, we’re in a small van rather than a bus and traveling with just two other people—a honeymooning couple from New York.

Day Tour to Ancient Sites

George inches the van down a very narrow street lined with stone houses on one side and restaurant tables and chairs on the other. He makes it to the end of the road unscathed and then negotiates several tiny maneuvers to coax the van around a very tight corner hemmed in on two sides by parked cars that he passes with centimeters to spare. It’s an impressive display of driving skill.

I feel we are in good hands.

George sets off towards the ancient city of Mycenae. He is very enthusiastic about the Mycenaeans, a still-mysterious culture that thrived around 3000 to 1700 BC, after the Minoans, but well before the Athenians (500 to 300 BC).

Mycenae

Around 1600 to 1200 BC, the city of Mycenae ruled its mighty empire from atop a hill now littered with evocative ruins and some truly marvelous tombs. Historians don’t know all that much about the Mycenaeans—who they were, where they came from, and what happened to them. We do know that around 1200 BC, the Mycenaeans defeated Troy and became the rulers of the Aegean before mysteriously disappearing from the ancient map.

Tomb of Agamemnon

Our first stop is known colloquially as the Tomb of Agamemnon. It is very likely not Agamemnon’s tomb, but calling it the Tomb of Agamemnon is better than calling it the Tomb of Some Bronze Age Dude We Don’t Know. Its other name is the Treasury of Atreus, which isn’t nearly as romantic nor as descriptive since the site is, definitely, a tomb. Or was.

We are the only people at the site until the honeymooners catch up with us, and I am thoroughly verklempt. Here’s the entrance to what is called a beehive tomb.

Entrance to the Treasury of Atreus in Mycenae

The interior of the tomb is massive, its high stone ceiling a testament to Bronze Age architectural know-how. The walls of horizontal stone blocks rise up and up to a height of more than 13 meters, decreasing in diameter the higher they go until the dome is closed.

I breathe in the smell of ancient stone and let my imagination soar to the height of the tomb. This place is almost 4000 years old. It was already ancient history when Plato walked the earth.

Julia Simpson inside the Treasure of Atreus

Try to arrive as early as possible, preferably just after the site opens to avoid the crowds. I am so grateful I was able to see the tomb on my own rather than with five dozen people all crammed together and simultaneously snapping photos. Talk about an imagination killer.

The honeymooning couple take our picture all alone in front of the tomb. Very soon, taking this same shot with no one else in it would be impossible. In the five minutes it takes for George to drive from this site to the main site of the Mycenae Acropolis, five tour buses have pulled in. The early visitor definitely gets the best shots.

Palace of Mycenae

The sparse ruins of the palace of Mycenae high on a hill overlooking a spectacular view are pretty much all that’s left of a great and powerful empire. But one element is a show-stopper—and that’s the famous Lion’s Gate that dates from around 1300 BC. I remember seeing pictures of it back when I first studied art history. It was touted as an incredible engineering achievement, considering its age. In fact, the relief of the lions is the oldest monumental relief in Europe. The stone lintel upon which the carving of two headless lions sits weighs over 18 tons.

Awestruck, I pass through the gate and then start the climb to the top of the site. Those ancient Mycenaeans must have been in great shape. The climb is steep but worth the effort. At the top, I take this panoramic video that shows the beauty of the surrounding countryside.

I’m captivated by an area of the ruined palace called the Artisan Quarter. This was once an extensive building complex that consisted of two stories (although only the foundations survive). Based on finds such as ivory objects, gold leaf, and remnants of semi-precious stones, archaeologists believe the buildings must have contained artists’ workshops.

Hmm, a novel about a Mycenaean jewelry maker? Maybe he’s kidnapped by the Sea People (Sardinian pirates, some think) who allegedly are responsible for conquering and destroying Mycenae? Maybe he’d taken on board a ship and rowed to Sardinia? Contemplating the glimmerings of a plot keep me entertained when we’re back on the road driving to our next stop.

Artisan quarter at the palace of Mycenae ruins

Archeological Museum

As with every ancient site I visited in Greece, Mycenae includes a small archaeological museum. I am particularly taken by the extensive collection of carved figurines and an intriguing ceramic snake.

Ancient Corinth

Our next step is the ancient city of Corinth. In around 400 BC during Greece’s Golden Age, Corinth was one of the country’s largest and most important cities, with a population of 90,000. And then the Romans swept in during 146 BC, demolished the city as they were often wont to do, and built a new city in its place in 44 BC.

As a result, most of the ruins and the artifacts in the museum are Roman, not Greek. Nevertheless, the site is pretty darned evocative. With the sky studded with interesting clouds, I snap some good photos of the remains of a Doric temple.

Corinth is famous with Christians because of the two letters that Paul wrote in the New Testament. Several tours led by Christian clerics were prowling the site while we were there, some even gathered in circles and singing and/or praying.

The ruins are quite extensive and worth visiting. The museum also merits a look. It contains a courtyard full of Roman statues along with other artifacts, including this well-preserved mosaic.

After wandering around the ruins for a while and visiting the museum, we enjoyed a tasty and reasonably priced lunch at a small nearby piazza ringed with restaurants and souvenir shops.

Corinth Canal

Nowadays, most cruise ships and freighters can’t squeeze through the Corinth Canal, but it’s still a marvel of engineering. From a vantage point on a bridge high above the canal, it’s hard to believe the canal is 24.6 meters wide and 6.4 kilometers long. From the bridge, the canal looks a lot narrower and shorter.

As far back as the 7^th century BC, engineers dreamed of building a canal to connect the Gulf of Corinth in the Ionian Sea with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea. Even Nero had a go. He actually broke the ground with a pickaxe and removed the first basket load of soil in 67 AD. But then he died and the project was abandoned. It wasn’t until 1893 that the canal was finally built.

View from the bridge of the Corinth Canal

The Theater at Epidaurus

For me, the ancient theater at Epidaurus is the highlight of the day. I’ve read about it and seen pictures, but nothing prepared me for its sheer size and grandeur. Regarded as the best-preserved ancient theater in Greece, the theater was constructed in the late 4^th century BC and is still used for performances.

Our guide, George, tells us that he saw a performance of Oedipus Rex in the theater when he was five and cried loudly when Oedipus died, thinking it was all real. He still comes to performances and brings his own children, assuring them it’s all make-believe.

Arrival at the Theater

The pathway from the entrance to the theater ends at the stage with the rows and rows of seats fanning upwards in a half-shell. From the stage, the theater doesn’t look that big and I’m just a tad disappointed.

Carol Cram on the stage at Epidaurus Theater

Climbing up the Theater

But then I start to climb—up, up, up with my heart pumping and my sore knees screaming. I count each step, pausing occasionally to catch my breath and note how much farther I have to go (far!).

Finally, I make it to the top and look down. A wave of vertigo makes me clutch the nearest railing. Yikes, I’m high. The magnificent theater spreads out before me, perfectly engineered and harmoniously constructed. It’s like a poem in stone.

Waaaaay down on the stage, I hear people testing the famous acoustics that allegedly allow all 15,000 spectators to hear a pin drop.

I recommend you make the trek up the stairs to the top of theater if at all possible. You really can’t appreciate the breadth of this marvel until you see the whole theater spread before you with the hills and sky beyond. Here are two views of the theater from the top.

Around the Theater

The theater is situated near the ancient sanctuary of Asklepios, which was a celebrated healing center in ancient times and dedicated to Asklepios, the god of healing. After visiting the theater, we wander through the extensive archaeological site dotted with columns and various and sundry ruins.

It’s an extremely pleasant place in which to imagine ancient people streaming along the walkways to see a performance by that new guy, Euripedes.

Back to Nafplion

It’s been a good, long day of sightseeing. Just as we pull away from Epidaurus, the heavens open. George slogs valiantly through a violent rainstorm, but fortunately, before we have time to worry about flooding, the sun bursts out and all is well with the world for the rest of the trip back to Nafplion.

We spend our last evening cruising around the picturesque streets, enjoying yet another tasty Greek meal (they’re all tasty), and picking up a few souvenirs. Here’s the main plaza at night.

Main plaza at Nafplio floodlit in the evening

Tours Around Nafplion

GetYourGuide offers tours of the ancient sites that are easily accessible from Nafplion. Many more tours depart from Athens, but then you’re faced with a much longer drive each way and may not find as many small group tours.

Here are some tours from GetYourGuide

If possible, see the ancient wonders of Mycenae, Corinth and Epidaurus from your home base of Nafplion. You’ll have more time to tour the archaeological sites as well as spend some quality time in Nafplion. Win-win.

Conclusion

Have you visited Nafplion? Share your suggestions for artsy travelers in the Comments below.

Here are links to more posts about Greece:

Explore Greek Cuisine in a Savor Nafplio Cooking Class

October 23, 2024November 21, 2024Activities, Destinations, Greece carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on November 21st, 2024 at 04:12 am

Have your ever wanted to learn the secrets of Greek cooking? If so, then consider adding a cooking class to your Greek travel itinerary.

When you travel in Greece, you’ll find out very quickly that Greek food is drop-dead amazing and consistently tastier than any food I’ve eaten anywhere.

Sure, I’ve had great meals in France, Italy, Spain, and even North America, but Greece wins hands down when it comes to consistency, taste, and freshness.

To learn why Greek food is so great–and more importantly, how to prepare it myself, my daughter Julia and I decide take a cooking class at Savor Nafplio Cooking while staying in lovely little Nafplio.

In the three-hour class, we learn how to prepare Greek dishes and then enjoy a five-course meal complete with wine pairings.

Arrival at Savor Nafplio Cooking Class

We arrive at 5 pm to discover that we are the only two participants. Chef Kostas is a wonderful host and teacher. He keeps us enthralled and engaged throughout the class.

I’ve taken several cooking classes while traveling in Europe, and the class at Savor Nafplio Cooking ranks as one of the best.

Chef Kostas starts the evening by sharing the menu and telling us what to expect. We then dive right into work.

Main Course: Lamb Bogana

The main course of the four-course meal is lamb and potatoes. Since both must cook for at least two hours, we start by preparing the lamb followed by the potatoes. Kostas shows me how to cut slits in the lamb and insert small slivers of garlic, along with sprinklings of salt and pepper. Meanwhile, Julia is put to work making the paste to rub over the lamb.

I also peel potatoes to layer under the lamb. While we work, Kostas provides us with a wealth of useful tips and information about what we are doing—and why.

Appetizer: Beef-Stuffed Zucchini

Once the lamb and potatoes are in the oven, we set to work making the beef-stuffed zucchini. Julia and I learn how to core a zucchini (harder than it looks!), and then we prepare the meat filling. We mix fesh herbs, an egg, plenty of olive oil, and green onions with ground beef and then stuff the mixture into the hollowed-out zucchinis.

Kostas nestles three stuffed zucchinis into a pan half-filled with water. Later, we’ll smother them in a delectable egg and lemon sauce.

Tomato Salad with Cucumber Soup

Kostas teaches us how to prepare cucumbers for pureeing into a refreshing green soup. He uses small cucumbers which he says are less bitter. To ensure the soup is a pleasing color of green, but not too bitter, he instructs me to peel the cucumber in stripes. Cool tip.

Later, he serves the cucumber soup under a mound of cut up Greek salad fixings–tomatoes, onions, olives, capers and some crunchy bread bits all topped with fresh feta cheese. Delicious!

Orange Pie

Traditional Greek orange pie is what I’d call cake—a light, orange-flavored sponge soaked in an orange syrup. Kostas demonstrates how to prepare and measure the many ingredients required for the pie.

One of my jobs is to cut a roll of filo pastry into thin ribbons and then mix them with eggs and fresh orange juice. The filo is a substitute for flour. Its texture will give the pie a lighter texture than it would if made with flour. Interesting idea!

Dining at Savor Nafplio

With all the food prepared, the dining and wine tasting begins. Kostas brings out a small loaf of warm sourdough bread for us to dip in local olive oil flavored with local sea salt. The bread is so good that I eat too much of it and then later have trouble finishing all my dinner.

Kostas pairs five wines with the various courses—from a light white to an after-dinner dessert wine. Kostas explains each wine—its origins in Greece and what to expect while tasting. I thoroughly enjoy tasting the wine and sampling the dinner courses.

Here are pictures of the meal we enjoyed at Savor Nafplio Cooking.

White Wine at Savor Nafplio Cooking Class — One of the five local white wines we sampled

Lamb Bogana at Savor Nafplio Cooking Class — One of the five local white wines we sampled

Booking a Class at Savor Nafplio Cooking

Kostas varies the menu depending on the preferences of the guests. We’d specified no fish or shellfish so they weren’t on the menu. He also looks at what’s fresh in the local market and consults his own mood. The menu we enjoyed may not be the menu a guest would enjoy on another night. I am, however, confident that whatever the menu, the cooking experience will be first-rate.

Carol Cram with Chef Kostas at Savor Nafplio Cooking Class

If you’re visiting Nafplio, I recommend finding three hours in your schedule to take a cooking class and enjoy a meal and wine pairings at Savor Nafplio Cooking. You get excellent value for the money and learn new cooking tips.

Cooking Classes in Greece

Here are some GetYourGuide cooking classes available in Greece:

Conclusion

Have you taken a cooking class while traveling? Share your recommendations in the Comments below. Here are more posts about cooking classes I’ve taken when traveling.

How to Spend Two Laid-Back, Glorious Days on the Greek Island of Naxos

October 3, 2024October 13, 2024Destinations, Europe, Greece carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 13th, 2024 at 04:55 pm

Two days spent on the beautiful Greek island of Naxos will definitely leave you wanting more! I visited Naxos after spending four days on uber-touristy Santorini, and it was a relaxing revelation.

I loved my time in Naxos and could easily see myself spending a week or longer there. Naxos feels like a Greek island where Greek people actually live. Plenty of visitors bask on the beaches and eat in the many harborside restaurants, but the place doesn’t feel inundated. Part of the appeal of Naxos is that cruise ships do not come here. Let’s hope that doesn’t change!

During the evening stroll along the waterfront and through the labyrinthine lanes of the old town (called, fittingly, the labyrinth), visitors mingle with locals, children play in the largely car-free streets, and everyone seems to be in a good mood.

And why not? The air on a September evening is warm but not stifling, the sunset over the Aegean is magnificent, the food well prepared (and cheaper than Santorini), and the general atmosphere easy going.

This post describes my two days on Naxos, including my recommendations for excellent accommodation and food.

Map of Naxos: Locations Visited

The map of Naxos below shows the locations I visited. I stayed with my daughter Julia at Giorgios Beach (#1), a short walk from the main town of Chora (#2) and the ferry dock. Click a number to read more about each location.

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Taking the Ferry from Santorini to Naxos

We bid farewell to Aethrio Sunset Village and take a taxi to the ferry port. Unlike the old port that services the cruise ships, the ferry port is accessible by car and bus down a very steep series of switchbacks.

When our ferry arrives, we join the throngs of suitcase-toting visitors for the mad dash up the gangplank and into the cavernous hold.

Ferry arriving in Santorini — The ferry arrives in Santorini

The loading and unloading of a Greek ferry is the very definition of organized chaos.

The ferry workers blow whistles and gesture for us to form two orderly lines (fat chance). It doesn’t seem possible that all the people waiting with us on the dock will fit on the boat. But within a surprisingly short time, we’re all aboard. Before we’ve even found the place to stash our luggage, the gangplank comes up and the voyage is underway.

It’s a windy day and the ferry is rocking, but we manage to locate the luggage area marked “Naxos” and leave our luggage before mounting the stairs to the passenger lounge.

We used Ferry Hopper to book our two ferry trips in the Greek Islands—Santorini to Naxos and Naxos to Athens. The online ticketing went smoothly, and the app was easy to use. When we boarded the ferry, we showed the tickets on the app to the attendant who scanned them and waved us through.

Traveling from Santorini to Naxos

The voyage from Santorini to Naxos takes about 90 minutes. Julia knocks herself out with a strong Gravol gum and I settle in to write while occasionally glancing out at the white-capped sea.

The ferry docks briefly at the island of Ios and then Naxos is next. As soon as we hear the island announced, we’re out of our seats and down the stairs to the hold. At Ios, I saw how little time is allowed for loading and unloading and I’m terrified of being left behind!

Arrival on Naxos – Kalergis Studios

We are among the first visitors off the ferry, where we find the taxi rank and are soon on our way to Kalergis Studios on Plaka Giorgios.

The small studio contains two beds, a tiny kitchen, a bathroom, and a balcony overlooking the beach. The reasonably-priced place (three nights cost the same as one night in Oia!) is located right on the beach and just a ten-minute stroll to Chora.

View from a suite in Kalergis Studios on Naxos — View from our suite in Kalergis Studios

Our first order of business is to enjoy a late lunch at Yannis, the beachside café adjacent to Kalergis Studios that also manages a fleet of sunbeds. The portions are enormous!

Here is the most massive hamburger Julia has ever eaten and my Dakos salad., a delectable combination of super fresh tomatoes, olives, onions, feta cheese and crunchy dried bread. It’s also so large that I enjoy the rest of it for lunch the next day.

Agios Georgios Beach

Although groaningly full after our lunches, we have to jump into the Aegean Sea. Apart from our bobbing swim in the hot springs cove on the boat trip on Santorini, we’ve not yet swum from a proper Greek beach.

Agios Georgios Beach (#1 on the map) is sandy, and the water is just the right temperature to be refreshing. It’s also very shallow, requiring a long wade out before the water’s deep enough to dive into. We bob happily for a while before returning to our room and getting ready to check out the Naxos sunset.

Sunset on Naxos

Sunsets really are a thing in Greece! On Naxos, the most popular place from which to watch the sunset is the Portera (#2). Also known as the Temple of Apollo, the Portera is a huge marble gate and all that remains of the temple of Apollo that was built, but never finished, in 530 BC.

We stroll toward the Portera, but my knee is aching, so I opt to sit on a bench overlooking the boats bobbing in the harbor while Julia runs on ahead to catch the sunset from the Portera. Here are two of her amazing shots.

The Naxos sunset just keeps on giving. Long after the sun sets, the sky continues to change in one of the most dramatic displays I’ve seen in a while.

After finally tearing our eyes from the sky, we settle on dinner at one of the many places lining the harbor. The food is hearty and tasty, and the ambiance can’t be beat.

First Full Day on Naxos

We decide to make one of our two full days on Naxos a beach day—our one beach day of the entire 16-day visit to Greece. After breakfast, we walk only about ten feet from the café below our window to our sun loungers for the day. At a cost of 25 euros, the loungers are a bargain compared to what I’ve paid in France.

And with a breakfast like this to start the day, how could we go wrong?

We seriously do nothing for the entire day. The air is breezy and warm, the sun hot but not unbearable, the view of the sparkling blue Aegean sea restful, and the occasional swim restorative. Before we know it, the sun is starting to set again and it’s time to think about an evening walk and dinner.

Exploring Chora

Thoroughly sun-warmed and relaxed, we follow the sunset back to Chora and stroll up to the top of the town to see the view. The town’s narrow lanes, colorful door frames and prowling cats charm at every turn. We are virtually alone as we wander around, occasionally checking out a souvenir store or snapping a picture of one of the cats.

Cycladic Village Architecture

We learn later when we go to Athens that the tight architecture of the villages in the Cyclades Islands owes a lot to pirates. Over the millennia, pirates (the so-called Sea People) have been a constant thorn in the side of peaceful occupants of islands such as Naxos and Santorini. To protect themselves, people built their villages with houses very close together and clustered around narrow, serpentine lanes that wind around and through the villages with seemingly no logic. If a pirate manages to get to such a village, they can be more easily repelled.

At least that’s what our tour guide in Athens tells us a few days later and who am I to contradict?

The result of all this pirate repelling are villages that to our modern eyes are irresistibly charming and achingly picturesque. Every turn brings into focus another angle for another photo. Cobbled lanes and slippery steps lead up, up, up between houses so close they can be touched with outstretched hands.

Cats in Chora

And everywhere there are cats—lounging across the tops of thick walls, tails swishing lazily in the heat, stalking around corners, skittering across the cobblestones. At one corner in Naxos’s old town of Chora, we count eleven cats in various attitudes of total relaxation.

Cats are a thing in Greece, we are discovering. They are everywhere! Most look sleek and well fed, although I think they are feral. Their presence is a constant source of pleasure for photo-snapping tourists, us included.

Dinner in Chora

After our wandering and picture-snapping, we go in search of a well-reviewed restaurant in the labyrinth.

Google’s restaurant reviews have not failed us yet. With its 4.8 rating, Restaurant Doukato looks like a good bet—and it is. After being seated under a huge tree in an airy courtyard, we order chicken souvlaki for two. While we wait, we watch in awe as the black-clad waiters literally run from table to table.

Julia Simpson at dinner in Naxos — Julia at Restaurant Doukato

I’ve never seen servers work so hard! One young man actually sprints, while holding aloft plates of food. When our souvlaki comes, he plunks it down and rushes off, only to return seconds later to offer to help us de-skewer the chicken.

Chicken souvlaki for two in Naxos — A lot of chicken souvlaki at Restaurant Doukato

The meal is plentiful and tasty. We take home what we can’t eat (portions are HUGE in Greece) and enjoy it for dinner the next night after our tour of Naxos.

Second Full Day on Naxos

Today, we sign up for an all-day tour of the island. Unfortunately, it’s a big bus tour rather than the small group tours we prefer. The plus is that the price is startlingly reasonable—just 30 Euros each for an eight-hour guided tour that takes us all over Naxos.

As two of the last people to be picked up, we settle into our seats in the second to last row and prepare to enjoy ourselves. Unfortunately, my ability to hear the guide’s commentary (and I do love a good commentary) is marred by the incessant chattering of the two women behind me. I don’t want to be that person by asking them to be quiet, but all my attempts at subtle body language cues such as glancing back, cupping my hand around my ear, leaning forward and so on fail to produce the desired quietude. And since they are speaking French, I can’t even eavesdrop.

Other than putting up with their rudeness (and to add insult to injury, they are fellow Canadians!), the tour is an admittedly efficient way to see the highlights of Naxos with minimal effort.

Demeter’s Temple

We leave the town of Chora and head up into the hills. As the largest of the Cyclades Islands, Naxos has an ecosystem very different from desert-like Santorini. Although dry, the landscape is much more verdant with plenty of greenery and high mountains framing views of the ever-blue Aegean. There is a great deal of agriculture here, including olive oil production, which explains the delectable freshness of the food. We’re told that Naxos grows most of the food consumed on the island. It’s no wonder the tomatoes taste like they’ve just been twisted from the vine because they probably have.

Our first stop is the temple of Demeter (#3) which we’re told dates from 530 BC. Over the centuries, the temple suffered attacks and repurposing, including the building of a small Christian basilica in its center. As is the case throughout Greece, the marble and other materials from ancient temples was frequently used to build Christian churches. I learn that the impressive looking ruins were rebuilt in 1977.

Pottery Workshop in Damalas

We stop in the village of Damalas (#4) to watch a pottery demonstration. The potter throws a pot with impressive speed and accuracy. I’ve dabbled in pottery a bit and recognize expertise when I see it. His pot comes out perfectly.

Potter in Naxos — Pottery demonstration in the village of Damalas on Naxos

The small store adjacent to the workshop sells an impressive array of plates, jugs, platters, and figurines. I purchase a bowl and resolve that it will be my one pottery purchase of the trip. I have a soft spot for buying pottery while traveling, but I have only a carry-on this trip and must make hard choices.

Chalki

The tour progresses at a brisk rate with frequent stops, the next being the charming village of Chalki (#5) where we have forty minutes to wander the picturesque alleys and sample olive oil and citron liqueur. I buy a can of olive oil and a small bottle of the liqueur because, well, why not?

The town also contains an ancient Byzantine church called Panagia Drosiani that dates from the 4^th to 6^th centuries AD. We have a quick look inside; the frescoes are impressive.

Apiranthos

The village of Apiranthos (#6) is billed as the most famous village in Naxos because of its marble cobbled streets (slippery when wet), narrow lanes, and panoramic views. It is definitely charming, and we enjoy a stroll around.

A strip of cafés cater to the tour bus people, but we do our best to escape and walk up into the village in the short time allocated.

Apollonas

Between Apiranthos and the seaside village of Apollonas (#7) lies some seriously twisty mountain roads. Our driver takes us around sharp curves and up steep slopes that would be challenging to negotiate in a small car, never mind a bus the size of a whale on wheels.

The views are stunning in this remote area of the island. Our guide tells us about some of the tiny villages we lumber through, how harsh life was historically and how their populations are decreasing.

Finally, we reach the seaside and our final major stop of the day.

It’s almost 3 pm and well past time for lunch. The village of Apollonas clusters alongside a white sand beach. Several inviting cafés await the influx of the tour buses. We find a table right at the edge of the water and order the best lunch of our entire trip.

View of the bay in Apollonas — View from our lunch spot in Apollonas

Tzatziki is one of our favorite Greek dips and we eat it several times, but nothing tops the flavor, texture, and garlic content of the tzatziki at the little café in Apollonas. We devour it along with a massive Greek salad and an order of saganaki (Greek fried cheese).

Kourus Statue – AKA the Colossus of Dionysius

Our last short stop is to admire a prone, large, and unfinished marble statue that is over 10 meters in height, weighs 80 tonnes, and dates to the 8^th century BC. Because the statue wears a long cloak and has long hair and a beard, most researchers think it depicts Dionysius, but some disagree and favor Apollo. I don’t suppose they’ll ever know for sure.

Verdict on the Big Bus Tour

Taking the tour did at least allow us to see a lot of Naxos. If it’s your only option, then definitely take a big bus tour rather than miss out on seeing the stunning Naxos countryside. But if possible, opt for a small group tour or a private tour. Yes, you’ll pay more, but you’ll also avoid long waits getting on and off the bus and chatty people who talk over the commentary. You’ll also likely go on smaller roads that the big buses can’t access, and you won’t feel quite so much like a tourist!

Back to Chora

We arrive back in Chora around 5 pm and return to Kalergis Suites for one last swim in the Aegean before the sun sets. For dinner, we eat leftovers from our souvlaki dinner the night before. It tastes even better the second night—and the price can’t be beat!

In the evening, we stroll the fifteen minutes back to Chora, poking through the many souvenir stores and enjoying the relaxed ambience, very different from Santorini.

I will definitely return to Naxos for a longer stay.

Leaving Naxos

Bright and early, we bid farewell to Kalergis Suites and take a taxi back to the port. More or less on time, the ferry churns in. Along with 500 of our new friends, we surge up the gangway and stash our luggage. Before we’re halfway up the stairs to the passenger lounge, the ferry is pulling away from the port and we’re off. We find and settle into two very tight seats with no view and no leg room in tourist class. The voyage takes almost four hours, and Julia decides to check on upgrading to business class.

Off she goes to inquire, returning ten minutes later with upgraded tickets (25 euros each). We mount the interior staircase to business class where we discover that the extra cost is well worth the increased comfort of much wider seats and a view of the passing sea. I’m all for saving money, but more and more, I opt for comfort over budget whenever I can.

With more room, I’m able to work on my computer when I’m not enjoying the view.

Tours on Naxos

Here are some GetYourGuide tours of Naxos.

Conclusion

Our trip to Greece included only two islands—Santorini and Naxos. I wish we’d had time to visit more, but as first-time visitors, we chose the best-for-us Greek island combo. Santorini has the stupendous views, and Naxos has the laid-back atmosphere and rugged interior.

We stayed four nights on Santorini and three nights on Naxos, which worked well. Although I prefer Naxos for its relaxed Greek vibe, I’d still recommend giving Santorini a bit more time because there is a great deal to see. Also, the longer you have to enjoy the views at many different times of day, from sunset to sunrise, the better.

But on my next trip to Greece, I’ll stay a full week on Naxos or another less-visited island and skip Santorini.

Have you visited Naxos? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

Stay in Oia for a Stunning Santorini Experience

September 20, 2024November 18, 2024Destinations, Europe, Greece carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on November 18th, 2024 at 05:03 am

Oia is one of several whitewashed towns that frost the tops of Santorini’s striated brown and ochre cliffs like plaster beads on a string.

Above is a blue sky occasionally studded with drifting clouds. Below is the deep, deep blue sea. Oia is so breathtakingly beautiful that it doesn’t seem real.

Each time I look out at the view over the caldera of Santorini, I repeat the phrase the wine-dark seas of Odysseus that I remember reading many decades ago when I studied Homer. And yes, although the sea is blue, “wine-dark” perfectly describes it. Perhaps because I know the role Greece has played in forming Western civilization or maybe because the Aegean sea really is different, I sense a richness and a depth to the water that is unmatched by any other body of water I’ve seen.

I can easily imagine Greek triremes sailing across this wide caldera, the soldiers’ helmets shining in the strong sunlight, spears at the ready.

People have lived on Santorini forever—or so our guide tells us during our tour of the island on our second day. And indeed, evidence of human habitation goes way, way back—even to the lost city of Atlantis. Was Santorini Atlantis? No one knows! But an attraction—to style it a museum is a stretch—called The Lost Atlantis Experience is built around the notion that Santorini and Atlantis are one and the same. More on the Atlantis myth later!

Overview

In this post, I chronicle the four nights and three full days I spent on Santorini with my daughter, Julia (read more about Julia and her adventures as a crochet artist here). Santorini is the first stop on our 13-day whirlwind trip through Greece that includes a week in the Cyclades (Santorini and Naxos) and 8 days exploring the Greek mainland.

Map of Santorini: Locations Visited

The map of Santorini below shows the locations I visited. I stayed in Oia (#1), which is at the northern tip of Santorini about 40 minutes drive from Fira and from the airport. Click a number to read more about the location.

This map was made with Wanderlog, a travel planner on iOS and Android

Arrival on Santorini

An easy four-hour flight takes us from London Gatwick to Santorini. Our bags are already on the carousel by the time we deplane and go through customs (a very fast process). We emerge into the arrivals hall to find a driver holding up my name. Private transfers don’t come cheap, but I have to say they are well worth the money.

Twenty-five minutes later, our driver pulls up to the outskirts of little Oia, located on the far northern tip of the arc of Santorini Island. The main city, Fira, is in the middle, and at the other end is Akrotiri, site of an ancient Minoan city.

Checking In to the Aethrio Sunset Village

Our hotel is the Aethrio Sunset Village, chosen for its location in the center of the network of tiny, cobbled laneways in the heart of Oia and its relatively reasonable (for Santorini) price. We quickly discovered when looking for accommodations that Santorini is not cheap, at least not if you want to stay in a walkable location.

The Aethrio Sunset Village turns out to be an excellent choice. Our air-conditioned little room includes a small kitchen, a living room and a bedroom, along with a small private courtyard. It’s the perfect refuge after exploring Oia and Santorini in the September heat.

Pool at the Aethrio Sunset Village in Oia

First Exploration of Oia

After getting settled, I go exploring. Julia is not feeling well, so my first stop is the pharmacy. On the way, I pass shop after shop selling a plethora of intriguing looking souvenirs. I mostly resist, in the hope of finding similar offerings when we go to Athens. I’ve read that the same souvenirs are cheaper in the Athens markets than on the expensive islands of Santorini and Mykonos.

Later, I buy a pendant that the shopkeeper assures me is made by a jeweler on the island and is not found in any other shop. So far as I can tell after much perusing of the shops, he’s telling the truth. I never see a similar one, whereas several of the designs are ubiquitous.

Crowds in Oia

Oia can be crowded, especially when a lot of cruise ships are anchored out in the caldera, and it is certainly touristy. Every shop and café caters to visitors; the only locals are those who work in them. In some ways, it feels like Oia Land, a sub-land of Santorini Land, but that’s only on the surface. I’d hate to come to Santorini only for a day because it deserves to be explored beyond Oia and Fira.

View of Oia on the northern tip of Santorini — I’m in Oia!

Our First Dinner in Oia

The hotel makes us a reservation for a sunset table at Kyprida Restaurant so we can watch the sunset in comfort. It’s the perfect choice. We enjoy our first Greek meal—chicken souvlaki for Julia and prawns and salad for me. While we eat, we witness one of the most breathtaking sunsets I’ve ever seen—and I live on an island in a house that faces west!

First Full Day in Oia

On our first full day in Santorini, we decide to lie low. Julia is suffering from jet lag and possibly a cold. At Aethrio Sunset Village, we enjoy our first Greek breakfast of yogurt, honey, and fresh bread (divine). We then spend the morning doing very little. We’ve booked a boat trip for the afternoon but are able to postpone it until Friday.

Relaxing by the Pool in Oia

For most of the day we alternate between hanging by the pool and walking around the tiny streets of Oia, snapping endless pictures and checking out the shops. Yes, it’s touristy, but the views! They really are stunning. Pictures can’t do it justice, although I have probably 100 pictures on my phone to prove that I tried.

There is no vehicular traffic within Oia, making it a very restful place to wander around, particularly when the crowds abate.

Dinner Overlooking the Caldera

In the evening, we dine at Flora Restaurant, which overlooks the caldera.

Julia Simpson at Flora Restaurant in Oia — Julia at Flora Restaurant in Oia

The extremely good-looking Greek waiters are efficient and friendly. Here’s my lamb shank, which the waiter assures me is the best in Oia. I can’t verify that, but it is extremely tasty!

Dinner of Lamb shank at Flora Restaurant in Oia — My dinner at Flora Restaurant in Oia

Over the next few days, we are to discover that the service at the restaurants and cafés of Oia is far superior to what we experience in Fira, the capital of Santorini (AKA Thira) and by far the most crowded place on the island.

NOTE: While visitors refer to the island as Santorini, its real name—and the one locals use—is Thira.

Second Full Day on Santorini

On Day 2, we’ve planned to take a small group tour of the entire island. After lunch at yet another caldera-view restaurant with excellent service and terrific food, we meet our guide outside the Hungry Donkey café on the road that skirts Oia.

Private Tour of Santorini

Our small group tour turns out to be a private tour because another couple canceled. Fine by me! We get a private tour for the price of a small group tour. Our friendly and very knowledgeable guide tells us we can go and do whatever we wish for the next five hours or follow his itinerary or do a combo of the two. We choose the latter and ask him to take us to a winery to sample some Santorini wines and then to the Lost Atlantis Experience and end with a view of the sunset. He can fill in the remaining time with whatever he thinks we’ll enjoy.

The five-hour tour is a fabulous way to see all of Santorini in comfort.

The Art Winery

First stop is the Art Winery, reputed to be the oldest winery in Santorini. I ask how long wine has been produced on the island. Forever is the answer. Always forever! This is a very old part of the world in terms of documented human habitation!

The winery doubles as an art gallery. Two large exhibition spaces feature work by local and international artists.

View of paintings at the Art Winery on Santorini — One of the art exhibition spaces at the Art Winery on Santorini

After I snap a few pictures of the artwork, we take a short tour of the winery, learn a bit about the production, and finally taste five wines. All of them are excellent. We’re told that outside of Santorini these wines are prohibitively expensive because so few bottles are produced. Even Gordon Ramsay favors wine from the Art Winery.

I buy a bottle that is packaged for safe transport home in my suitcase. It’s a robust white wine that I’m looking forward to enjoying in the depths of winter in the hope of reviving memories of sun-drenched Santorini.

Highest Point on Santorini

After the winery, we’re taken up, up, up to the highest point on Santorini where a small monastery sells olive oil and other delicacies. Julia buys a bottle, and we admire the stunning views. Not for the first time since coming to Santorini, I’m glad that I decided not to rent a car. The road to the summit is a series of very steep switchbacks with sheer drops. With a pro at the wheel, I can relax.

View of Santorini from the highest point

Lost Atlantis Experience on Santorini

Next up is our requested visit to the Lost Atlantis Experience. I’d mistakenly thought this would be a Santorini must-see. I am wrong. It’s kind of an Atlantis theme park complete with interactive exhibits featuring Plato discussing Atlantis and an actual theme-park-style ride.

Touted as a 9D experience (I didn’t count), the experience consists of being strapped into a seat and given 3D glasses. The screen comes to life and for about ten excruciating minutes, we’re taken on a virtual roller coaster ride through an ancient civilization on Santorini, that may or may not have been Atlantis, which was then destroyed when the volcano now at the center of the caldera erupted.

Cue many close-up shots of frightened Atlanteans fleeing for their lives, followed by flowing lava and falling rocks punctuated by literal punches in my back from the seat, lots of shaking and shimmying, occasional bursts of water from the seat rests, and the odd blast of cold air that is actually quite welcome. I don’t taste or smell anything so I’m not sure what is 9D about the experience.

We share our Atlantis experience with a Russian couple who are quite affronted that none of the available languages in the headsets is Russian. Afterwards, we are ushered through various exhibits by the endearingly earnest staff. There are more staff than visitors during our visit. Hopefully, that’s not always the case since I imagine the ride and exhibits cost a fair bit to maintain.

The fourteen-euro-per-person charge is steep for what we get. But we gamely watch as many of the screens as we can before finally being released into the gift shop. I buy an Atlantis mouse pad and Atlantis mug for Gregg who has long been an Atlantis fan. It’s cheesy, but whatever.

I imagine our guide wonders why we want to waste our time and money on the Lost Atlantis Experience, but he is polite enough not to say.

Megalochori

He takes us next to the village of Megalochori, a tranquil Santorini village with only a handful of gift shops and some enticing looking restaurants. It feels like a place inhabited by Santorini locals. Our guide (we never catch his name) takes us into a cave that was inhabited until the 1990s. It’s extremely dank and unpleasant; hard to believe people lived there in modern times. Of course, now you pay very big euros to stay in a cave in Oia, but I think those caves are quite a bit swankier.

The interior of a Santorini cave that was once inhabited — The Santorini cave was inhabited until the 1990s

Black Sand Beach

Our guide drives to the south side of the island and along a beautiful stretch of black sand beach. Black sand beaches are found in only a handful of places in the world—Iceland, New Zealand, Hawaii, and Santorini (and I’ve been to them all!).

Sunset Over Firostefani

Finally, we return to the steep rim of the caldera to wait for the sun to set. Our guide jokes about people flocking to watch something that has happened every day “forever”, but he stands with us, his tanned face a ruddy gold from the sun’s rays. I ask him if he ever gets tired of the view, and he says never—and he was born and bred on Santorini. He tells us that the island didn’t get electricity until 1971, just a few years before he was born.

Here’s a video I shot as the sun sets over another lovely day on Santorini.

The Road Back to Oia

After sunset, our guide drives us back to Oia along a cliff-hugging road with views out to the Aegean on both sides. Magical!

Why Take a Tour of Santorini?

In the over fifty years since the advent of electricity, Santorini has developed into a world-class destination. Our guide tells us that he doesn’t even recognize the island anymore. Although he makes his living taking tourists around the island, he agrees that there are too many visitors and that reducing the number of cruise ships allowed on any one day would be wise.

I’m glad we’ve driven the length and breadth of Santorini and seen places that are relatively tranquil.

During the tour, we discover that the back side of Santorini facing in the opposite direction from the caldera is beautiful in a bleak kind of way but lacks the drama of the caldera-facing views. The vegetation is very sparse, the soil extremely dry, and the architecture not as pristine as that in places such as Oia, which really is postcard perfect.

Here’s a video I shot of the caldera that really shows off the deep blue of the sea.

Final Full Day on Santorini

Our last full day on Santorini is a busy one. Since we’ve postponed the boat trip to today, we must combine it with our planned trip to Akrotiri at the far end of the island. As it turns out, we have plenty of time to do and enjoy both and still squeeze in an excellent lunch at a restaurant overlooking the caldera in super-busy Fira.

Getting to Akrotiri

We intend to take the public bus to Akrotiri—a trip that will require 90 minutes and two buses if we get the connections to sync up. At the bus station in Oia, I spy a taxi and ask him how much to Akrotiri. He tells me 55 euros. Hmm. Seems steep compared to 4 euros each for two bus trips—Oia to Fira and then Fira to Akrotiri. I dither. But the bus doesn’t appear to be coming, and our time is limited.

I shrug and accept the taxi driver’s option, and soon we’re sailing across the island all the way from one end to the other. It’s a good 40-minute drive and worth the extra 43 euros.

The more I travel, the more value I put on my time. If I’m faced with a choice between spending 90 minutes on crowded buses that may or may not depart on time and taking a comfy 40-minute drive in an air-conditioned taxi, I’m more and more inclined to opt for the taxi.

Touring Akrotiri Archeological Site on Santorini

Akrotiri is an impressive archaeological site that, thankfully, is shielded from the glaring Santorini sun by a massive cover. To fully appreciate the site, a guide is needed—something we didn’t have. As we stroll around the walkways, we occasionally cozy up to a guided tour to eavesdrop.

I learn that the site was occupied for many hundreds of years by Minoans who built sturdy three-story houses, had indoor plumbing, and well laid out streets.

View of Akrotiri ruins on Santorini — Akrotiri ruins on Santorini

The large city (only a fraction has been excavated so far) was destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 1700 BCE (as in about 3700 hundred years ago). Akrotiri, while impressive, is not as interesting as other sites I’ve visited, such as Pompeii. To fully appreciate it, we need to visit the archaeological museum in Fira.

Bus to Fira

We leave the site and see a bus marked Fira and so jump on. The two-euro-per-person fare gets us to Fira in plenty of time to visit the archaeological museum and have lunch. I’m relieved that we’ve avoided another expensive taxi ride, much as I enjoyed it.

Thira Archaeological Museum

This little gem of a museum is a must-see for visitors also wishing to visit Akrotiri—or even if not. Of the two, the museum gives a much better idea of the Minoan civilization.

The variety and sophistication of the artifacts, particularly the pottery, is astonishing.

A highlight are the reconstructed frescoes depicting Minoan women, youths, palm trees, and geometric patterns. The techniques used to create the frescoes appear very similar to the techniques used in the Middle Ages.

Minoan frescoes from Akrotiri on Santorini

Checking Out Fira

We have plenty of time to explore Fira before we need to be down in the old harbor to embark on our five-hour boat tour.

Our first impression is that Fira is Oia on steroids and not in a good way. Much like Oia, the narrow, cobbled lanes are packed with souvenir stores and restaurants, but there are many, many more stores and a ton more people. We are visiting on a day when only one large cruise ship is in port. I’d hate to be there when there are five cruise ships as there were on our first day in Santorini when we wisely lay low.

No wonder the people of Santorini are discussing levying a day-use fee to visitors. I doubt even a 20-euro fee would deter visitors, but at least the money would help with Santorini’s infrastructure.

Lunch in Fira

Service is slow and indifferent in Fira but the view over the caldera is stupendous and the food, as always, is excellent. We’ve encountered mediocre food on Santorini. Everything is fresh and tasty, particularly the very juicy red tomatoes.

Descending to the Old Port Below Fira

We make our way to the cable car that will whisk us down to the old port. We ride with two people from Toronto who are returning to their cruise ship. They are surprised that we are not also cruise passengers and impressed we’re traveling around Greece on our own.

Boat Trip Around the Caldera of Santorini

We are early for our tour, but no matter. We wait in the shade for the boat to arrive—an old wooden two-masted boat that allegedly seats 80 people. The guide informs us that there are only 40 people on our tour which fills the boat without overcrowding. We find seats at the bow.

Julia suffers from seasickness, so she is nervous, but for most of the trip she manages, though feeling seriously peaked by the end.

Walk on Nea Kameni

Our first stop is the uninhabited island of Nea Kameni, which is an active volcano. I’ve been told that the walk to the top is a leisurely 20-minute stroll. It is not! I set off with all good intentions but decide to stop about a third of the way up and wait in the shade while Julia goes on ahead.

But then a very nice couple from Lyon in France asks me why I’m not going any farther. I say I’m tired, but they insist I should try.

Doucement! they say. Go slowly. I relent and start off up the next steep slope. At the top, I again try to stop, but they won’t hear of it. Very kindly, they stay with me all the way to the top. I am happy I persevere. The view at the top is spectacular.

Kostas, our guide, describes what we’re seeing and reminds us that the volcano is still very much active. It will erupt (not “may” erupt) in about 80 years, if not sooner. Who knows? The volcano of Santorini has already blown its top a few times, burying civilizations, including, possibly, Atlantis.

Guide describing the volcano of Nea Kameni near Santorini — Costas describes the volcano

The walk back down from the volcano is not as taxing as the walk up, but it’s hot and the path is slippery. The guide exhorts us to look down constantly to avoid nasty accidents, of which he tells us he’s seen a few.

Swimming in the Hot Springs

Back on the boat and feeling proud of myself, I get ready for the next activity—a swim in the ocean. The boat ploughs through choppy seas to the island of Palea Kameni where we anchor. Passengers who want to swim (me included) descend the ladder into the cool sea. The temperature is about 22 degrees, which is just perfect.

The swim from the boat to the hot springs takes about ten minutes and is heavy going because the sea is choppy. Julia opts to use a pool noodle, but I strike out on my own. As I swim, the water gets progressively warmer until it’s about 27 degrees and shallow. I’m able to stand up, which I do, and promptly seriously stub my baby toe. Later, back at the hotel, I discover it is black and bruised. A casualty of traveling.

Stop at Therasia

Next stop after swimming is a quick visit to the island of Therasia where only about 300 people live, their principal occupation being fishing. We dock at the bottom of a steep cliff with stairs leading up to the village at the top. At the port, there are only a handful of small taverns servicing the boat tours. I enjoy a Sprite and watch the cats beg for food.

Feral cats freely roam here as they do in Oia and all of Santorini (and Naxos, as we discover later). They look remarkably healthy and are very friendly, probably because they know they’ll get lots of pats and free food from all the tourists.

Sunset from the Caldera

The finale of the boat trip is a front row seat at sunset. We power over to an area where several other boats are anchored facing the setting sun. We are each given a glass of bubbly wine and settle down to watch the sun sink slowly in the west, the way it has forever.

Kostas brings out his guitar and serenades us as the light turns golden and the cares of the world seem far away.

Sunset and boat in the caldera of Santorini — Sun begins to set in the Caldera

Sunset from the caldera of Santorini — Julia admires the sunset from the boat

The word “magical” is used frequently to describe the Greek island experience, and truly, it is the best word.

Another word is “supernatural”, in all its many senses. I feel the presence of ancient Minoans who sailed these very seas, of Greeks heading for Troy, of pirates and Crusaders and finally tour boats.

These seas have witnessed millennia of human activity.

These seas have been here forever.

Options for Sailing Tours in Santorini

Here are some sailing tours you can purchase through Tiquets.com

My Recommendations for Enjoying Santorini

First off, should you visit Santorini? It’s crowded, touristy, and a bit crass. It’s also amazingly, spectacularly beautiful. So yes, I recommend you visit Santorini at least once.

Stay in Oia Rather than Fira

A friend back in Canada told me we had to change our reservation from Fira to Oia, and we are very glad we took her advice. While Oia requires a bit more effort to reach, it’s well worth it. Oia really is Santorini’s most gorgeous location, which is saying something because just about every location along the edge of the caldera affords magnificent views.

But Oia also has the blue-domed churches clustered in photogenic spots, is a very walkable town, boasts friendlier servers (at least in our experience), and offers a more upscale atmosphere. It’s also very popular with honeymooners. Prepare to see a lot of cuddling couples, some dressed in their wedding gear and getting their picture taken at sunrise and/or sunrise.

Comparing Service in Oia to Fira

We notice a distinct difference in service between the quieter Oia and Fira, which must absorb all the cruise ship passengers every day. In Fira, our food and drinks are pretty much thrown at us and smiles are thin on the ground. On the other hand, the food is excellent.

Although still crowded, Oia is smaller, more intimate, and less frantic than Fira. The goods in the shops are of higher quality with fewer shops devoted exclusively to selling schlock.

Iconic shot of Oia showing the famous 3 blue domes

Sunsets at Oia

Oia is famous for its sunsets, with people coming from all over the island to jockey for position. It’s a bit off-putting to watch people pushing and shoving, cell phones held aloft. The best way to see a sunset is to reserve a table at a restaurant that faces the sunset, as we did on our first night.

If you don’t do that, this is what you may see.

Crowds taking photos of the sunset on Santorini — View of a sunset from behind the crowds

Another Reason to Stay in Oia

On our last full day in Oia, after the boat trip, we catch the bus from Fira to Oia and sit right at the front. The roller coaster ride in the dark with sheer drops to our right as the bus driver skillfully coaxes his massive bus around numerous switchbacks takes a few years off my life.

But when we arrive at Oia, we see a massive lineup of people waiting to catch the bus back to Fira after watching the sunset. There is no way they will all fit on the bus which means many will be waiting an hour for the next bus—and it’s already 10 pm. This bottleneck after sunset is reason enough to make Oia your home base.

Also, staying in Oia means more opportunities to take night shots like this.

Sunrises in Oia

For us, one of the many highlights of staying in Oia is the opportunity to witness the sunrise. On our last morning, we get up at 6:30 and station ourselves at a viewpoint that during the day and especially at sunset is clogged with tourists. We are virtually alone as we wait for the sun to rise over the blue domes.

The air is still and warm and a slight wind ruffles the cascades of bougainvillea and carries the sounds of twittering birds. I look past the jumble of whitewashed buildings and the turquoise rectangles of private pools on private terraces of places that cost a small fortune to stay in, and fix my gaze on a view that has enchanted people for millennia.

Conclusion

Stay at least three nights—preferably four or five— in Oia to fully explore the island, and to experience Oia at all times of the day, from the crazy crowds at sunset to the quiet afternoons to the pearly dawns.

While accommodation bargains can be had by staying on the opposite side of Santorini from the caldera, I wouldn’t bother. Splurge and stay in Oia and then visit another less touristy island for a more Greek experience.

Santorini can be reached by plane or ferry. We arrived by plane and left by ferry to visit the island of Naxos—another highly recommended Greek island.

Here are some GetYourGuide tours of Santorini.

Have you visited Santorini? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

Should You Make the Climb to the Acropolis of Athens?

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When It’s Too Hot to Visit the Acropolis of Athens

Visiting the Acropolis of Athens in the Late Afternoon

Visit to the Acropolis in September

To Combo or Not to Combo?

Waiting to Enter the Acropolis

Joining the Line to the Acropolis of Athens

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus

What’s Up Top at the Acropolis of Athens?

Warning: No Disrespecting Allowed

Temple of Erechtheion at the Acropolis of Athens

The Parthenon

Sunset Over Athens

Accessing the Acropolis via Elevator

Visiting the Acropolis Museum

When to Visit the Acropolis Museum in Athens

Where to Stay in Athens

Conclusion

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Overview of Nafplion, Greece

Arrival in Nafplion

Accommodations in Nafplion

Getting to Know Nafplion

First Full Day in Nafplion

Archeological Museum

Tourist Train in Nafplion

Fortress of Palamidi

Second Full Day in Nafplion

Day Tour to Ancient Sites

Mycenae

Tomb of Agamemnon

Palace of Mycenae

Archeological Museum

Ancient Corinth

Corinth Canal

The Theater at Epidaurus

Arrival at the Theater

Climbing up the Theater

Around the Theater

Back to Nafplion

Tours Around Nafplion

Conclusion

Explore Greek Cuisine in a Savor Nafplio Cooking Class

Arrival at Savor Nafplio Cooking Class

Main Course: Lamb Bogana

Appetizer: Beef-Stuffed Zucchini

Tomato Salad with Cucumber Soup

Orange Pie

Dining at Savor Nafplio

Booking a Class at Savor Nafplio Cooking

Cooking Classes in Greece

Conclusion

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Map of Naxos: Locations Visited

Taking the Ferry from Santorini to Naxos

Traveling from Santorini to Naxos

Arrival on Naxos – Kalergis Studios

Agios Georgios Beach

Sunset on Naxos

First Full Day on Naxos

Exploring Chora

Cycladic Village Architecture

Cats in Chora

Dinner in Chora

Second Full Day on Naxos

Demeter’s Temple

Pottery Workshop in Damalas

Chalki

Apiranthos

Apollonas

Kourus Statue – AKA the Colossus of Dionysius

Verdict on the Big Bus Tour

Back to Chora

Leaving Naxos

Tours on Naxos

Conclusion

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Stay in Oia for a Stunning Santorini Experience

Overview