How to Explore Italy’s Campania in 7 Days

The Campania region of southern Italy is packed with swoon-worthy sites. A week in Campania is just about long enough to get a good sense of the area.

And if you have even more time, you won’t run out of things to see!

In this post, I present a suggested itinerary that includes two nights in Naples, three nights in Sorrento on the Amalfi coast, and two nights in off-the-beaten-track Paestum.

If you have more time and you’re driving, you could throw in a night or two in Positano south of Sorrento on the Amalfi coast.

Pinterest graphic with the text Itinerary for a perfect Week in Italy's Campania over a view of Mount Vesuvius across the Bay of Naples from Naples, Italy.

Itinerary at a Glance

  • Day 1 & 2: Stay in Naples at Palazzorefici and explore the National Archaeological Museum and Pompeii (or Herculaneum)
  • Day 3, 4, 5: Stay in Sorrent at the Hotel Eden and explore Capri & and Amalfi Coast
  • Day 6 & 7: Venture south to Paestum and stay at the Hotel Savoy on the coast

Overview

The Campania region of southern Italy is anchored by the sprawling, crazy, fascinating city of Naples. This is where I suggest you start your exploration of the region. Use it as a home base for the first two days, devoting your first day to exploring Naples and then your full day to exploring Pompeii, Herculaneum, and/or Vesuvius.

Then, set off for Sorrento where you’ll home base for three days and take day trips down the Amalfi Coast. Then, scoot back to the highway and tootle south to Paestum.

While the Amalfi coast is extremely tight and can be mobbed. Paestum is relatively peaceful with expansive beaches and the most awesome Greek ruins you’ll find anywhere in the Mediterranean.

First, I provide some tips about getting around the Campania, and then I share my suggestions for what to do and see on each of your seven days in this picturesque and historic region of Italy.

Getting Around Campania

Driving in this area is not for the faint-hearted and not the best idea unless you’re coming from another region of Italy and already have a car.

If you’re flying into Naples, don’t pick up your car until you’re on your way out. Take a taxi to the airport, pick up your rental car, and then head for Sorrento.

If you’d rather not rent a car, modify the itinerary to use a combination of public transit, small group tours, and private transfers.

Another option is to spend the entire week in Sorrento, which is located between Naples and the Amalfi coast, and take day trips from there. You may need to skip Paestum, but you can spend more time on the Amalfi Coast and have a day or two free to just chill or perhaps visit the fabled Isle of Capri.

You’ll spend more time commuting, but you could save money on restaurant meals by renting an apartment for the week.

Plus, there’s something to be said for coming back every evening to the charming ambiance in the historic center of one of southern Italy’s most beguiling towns.

Looking over the Mediterranean from Sorrento
Looking over the Mediterranean from Sorrento

Highlights of your week include visits to Vesuvius and/or Pompeii, the Isle of Capri and the Blue Grotto, the towns of Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi on the stunning Amalfi Coast, and Paestum about two hours farther south on the Mediterranean coast (best with a car).

Day 1: Arrive in Naples

Naples is kind of crazy, which is part of its charm.

Take the train directly from Rome and then take a taxi from the Naples train station to your hotel.

I recommend staying in the Plebiscito area and splurging on a hotel that includes a sweeping view of the Bay of Naples with Vesuvius steaming gently in the distance.

View over the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius.
Stunning view over the Bay of Naples

On your first afternoon, take a taxi to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (the National Archeological Museum) which contains one of the world’s finest collections of Greco-Roman artifacts.

Read my post detailing some of the highlights of this fantastic museum: How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.

A Naples Art Card offers discounted entry into the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and several other major museums in Naples.

Other things to see in Naples include the opulent Palazzo Reale located in the Piazza del Plebiscito and the nearby Castel Nuovo. From the top of the castle ramparts, you’ll enjoy stunning views of Naples and the harbor.

In the evening, stroll through the atmospheric Santa Lucia district–a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets winding from just west of the Piazza del Plebiscito down to the sea. 

Stroll along the waterfront overlooking the Gulf of Naples, then dine at one of the many seafood restaurants on the harbor. Here’s Gregg with Mount Vesuvius in the background.

Safety in Naples

Are you safe in Naples? The city has a reputation for petty crime, but how dangerous is it for the tourist? This article gives you the lowdown, but the short answer is yes, you’re safe in Naples.

I never felt unsafe, although I did occasionally get ripped off by taxi drivers. But by and large, I found the people in Naples friendly and enthusiastic.

Day 2: Mt. Vesuvius and Pompeii

You could probably “do” Vesuvius, Pompeii, and Herculaneum on a day trip from  Naples, but I don’t recommend it. Instead, choose two of the three sites and enjoy them at a relatively leisurely pace.

I suggest Pompeii and Vesuvius or Vesuvius and Herculaneum. If you’d prefer to skip the mountain, then find a small group tour that goes to both Pompeii and Herculaneum for a thoroughly ruinous day.

The key is to save yourself stress by taking guided tours to these incredible sites. It’s possible to see them via public transit, but unless your budget is really tight, I suggest you give your day over to an experienced guide and then sit back and soak up the landscape and the history.

And if the weather is super hot, I seriously suggest you skip Pompeii and instead enjoy the art of Pompeii at the Naples Archeological Museum in air-conditioned comfort. Touring the Pompeii ruins, where there is no shade and a lot of bare stone, can become too much of an ordeal for this artsy traveler!

Vesuvius

I first scaled Vesuvius in a chair lift on a bitterly cold December day. The views were spectacular as was the proximity to the smoking crater.

Nowadays, you’ll have to hike uphill for a steep 30 minutes to reach the summit. From there, circumnavigate the crater’s lip to enjoy jaw-dropping views of Naples, the Mediterranean, and Pompeii.

Mount Vesuvius looming behind the ruins of the Forum in Pompeii
Mount Vesuvius looming behind the ruins of the Forum in Pompeii

The eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD buried the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum in ash and lava. For eighteen hours, the mountain spewed ash, dust and rocks twelve miles into the sky. The poor folks in Pompeii and Herculaneum didn’t have a chance.

Here’s a tour from Naples that includes Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius:

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Pompeii

The most poignant thing about Pompeii’s ancient ruins is their frozen-in-time quality. Volcanic ash has preserved the bodies of people and animals twisted in the final throes of death.

Plaster cast of Pompeii victims
Plaster cast of Pompeii victims

You also get a remarkable look at everyday life. You’ll see electoral propaganda messages painted on walls, elegant villas, modest houses, peasant dwellings, and even squalid brothels.

Walk through narrow lanes to see the remains of workshops complete with furniture, tools, lamps, and foodstuffs. One of my favorite things was seeing the ruts cut into the stone roads by chariot wheels.

Frescoes decorate the walls of Casa della Fontana Piccola in Pompeii.
Amazing frescoes decorate the walls of Casa della Fontana Piccola in Pompeii.

You need to spend at least an afternoon in Pompeii. If you’re a big fan of Roman ruins, choose a day tour that gives you plenty of time to explore the ancient ruins. 

If you have the energy, walk to the Villa of the Mysteries where you’ll find some of the best-preserved frescoes still in situ in Pompeii.

Frescoes from most of the other villas in the city have long since been removed to the Naples Archeological Museum.

Herculaneum

Allow yourself time to visit Herculaneum. Although smaller than Pompeii, Herculaneum is richer, with larger houses, more impressive mosaics, and better-preserved ruins.

More complete houses remain because the ash from Vesuvius destroyed Herculaneum in a different way than it did Pompeii. In Pompeii, falling ash collapsed many of the roofs, whereas the ash fell more slowly over Herculaneum, covering and preserving wood and other organic objects.

Herculaneum is less crowded than Pompeii and much smaller, with better frescoes and mosaics. However, much of the city is yet to be excavated.

Second Evening in Naples – Pizza!

In the evening, find a pizza place and enjoy Naples’s most famous food export. The pizza in Naples really is amazing!

And if you have time, why not combine dinner with a pizza-making cooking class! Here’s an option on GetYourGuide:

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Day 3: Onwards to Sorrento

Take the train from  Naple to the charming town of Sorrento or catch the ferry from Naples. Or, as noted earlier, pick up your rental car from the airport and drive to Sorrento.

On a recent visit to Campania, I parked on the outskirts of Naples rather than risk driving into the city (wise move!). At the end of my Naples stay, I took a taxi to the parking lot and then carried on to Sorrento.

On another trip, I took a taxi to Sorrento from our hotel in Naples and got into trouble when the driver demanded payment upon our arrival at the hotel in Sorrento. I’d already paid the manager of the hotel in Naples for the taxi. Unfortunately, we’d mistakenly taken the wrong taxi at the Naples hotel.

The driver spoke only Italian and was very angry with the stupid tourists who didn’t want to pay twice for the ride. Fortunately, the manager of the hotel in Sorrento called the Naples manager, and, after much yelling and gesticulating, during which time I was sure blows would be traded, everything was sorted out. The taxi driver grudgingly shook our hands and presumably drove back to Naples to get his money.

I haven’t taken the ferry to Sorrento, but it seems like a great option. The ride is scenic and takes only 45 minutes. Purchase tickets here.

Hanging Out in Sorrento

Lemon trees and palm trees, houses clinging to cliffs, stunning views of the coast and the turquoise Mediterranean–this area of southern Italy is postcard-perfect.

And Sorrento makes the perfect home base to explore the area.

Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast, Italy
Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast

The whole point of Sorrento is to slow down and relax. Amble along the small streets and enjoy la dolce vita. If you’re into shopping, Sorrento is the place to buy inlaid wooden boxes. I still have the wooden music box I bought on my first trip to Sorrento in the 1970s.

Sorrento is also a good place to buy cameos. Unfortunately, I lost the pink cameo I bought there. I still miss that cameo.

In the early evening, join the locals for the passeggiata. Families and couples dress up and stroll the shady streets, talking and laughing, gelatos in hand. The bars are full, and everything seems right with the world.

Day 4: Visit Capri

If the weather is fine, book a boat tour to the fabled island of Capri and its Blue Grotto. Yes, Capri can get crowded, but it’s drop-dead gorgeous, with its white limestone cliffs, azure views of the Tyrrhenian Sea, and tumbling gardens.

Catch an early hydrofoil from Sorrento to avoid the cruise-ship crowds that clog the streets by midday.

A visit to Capri’s Blue Grotto is worth the time and effort required to get there, even if you’re only in the grotto soaking up the blue for a few minutes.

The Blue Grotto is a sea cave famous for its luminous blue light and shimmering waters accessible only in a tiny dinghy through a narrow entranceway.

Duck!

A boat you catch on Capri stops at the grotto and waits while you board the dinghy and are rowed into the grotto. If you’re prone to seasickness, pop a Gravol before leaving the dock in Capri.

Blue Grotto, Capri, Italy
Blue Grotto, Capri, Italy

Scrambling into the little dingy from the larger boat can be either entertaining or terrifying, depending on your fitness level and tolerance for danger.

I didn’t ask the guide how many people fall into the water every year. I suspect he wouldn’t have wanted to tell me.

The Blue Grotto is open year round, weather permitting. I visited on a sunny day in late December. Here’s a tour from Sorrento with GetYourGuide:

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Day 5: Explore the Amalfi Coast

Continue home-basing in Sorrento and take a day trip to visit the Amalfi coast, or pull up stakes and make Positano your home for two nights. I suggest the latter to give you a more intimate feel for this charming town that tumbles down the cliff to the Mediterranean. 

Devote an afternoon to visiting the town of Amalfi to view its colorful houses and stroll the beach.

Positano and romance go hand in hand. Did you ever see Only You with Marisa Tomei? The scenes in Positano are some of the movie’s most beautiful. If you have a lot of money, stay at the Sirenuse Hotel where scenes from the movie were shot.

Visit Positano to steep yourself in beauty. Wander the tiny streets, gaze out at the views, snap hundreds of photos, eat great food, and just relax.

If you’re home-basing in Sorrento, consider a boat trip down the Amalfi Coast:

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Day 6: Go to Paestum

If you’re driving, backtrack to Sorrento and get back out to the highway connecting Naples to the south, and head farther south to marvelous Paestum.

You can also keep driving along the coast, but the road is very winding and the trip will take longer.

In Paestum, you’ll find some of the best preserved Greek temples in the world (including in Greece!). I really enjoyed spending a few days in this lovely area of southern Italy.

Greek temple in Paestum in southern Italy

Paestum feels off the beaten track, although in the summer months, the beaches can get crowded, mostly with Europeans on vacation. 

Give yourself plenty of time to explore the three Greek temples at Paestum and the charming archeological museum. The temples are incredibly well-preserved, with columns that must be seen to be appreciated.

Photos can’t capture the sheer enormity of these columns that were built to hold up the temples 2,500 years ago.

Consider a small group guided tour of the temples and the archeological museum. You’ll learn a great deal about this amazing archeological site.

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Day 7: Relax on the Beach

Stay in a hotel near the beach and take a day off from your vacation. Some of the hotels, such as the Hotel Savoy where I stayed for two nights have beach clubs overlooking the sea where you can relax on a sun lounger while sipping a limoncello.

Where to Stay in Campania

Naples

Here are two options, both of which I’ve stayed in and recommend:

The Hotel Paradiso is located on Posillipo Hill, the hotel has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.

The Palazzorefici is a stylish apartment deep in the heart of Naples on a tiny side street. It’s close to a main street where you can easily get taxis to where you want to go in Naples.

Sorrento

The Hotel Eden has a central location in Sorrento, with rooms on the upper floors overlooking the stunning view of the Bay of Naples. Lush gardens and a pool provide a welcome oasis. This is a good choice for Sorrento, although not budget-friendly.

Positano

Prices are high in this holiday mecca, so if Positano is above your price range, consider staying longer in Sorrento and taking a day tour down the Amalfi coast.

In Positano, the über posh Sirenuse Hotel is über expensive, but if you’re budget runs to it – wowee! Scenes from Only You were filmed there.

A more budget-friendly option is the Villa Antonietta that still has sea views but is much more modestly appointed.

Paestum

The Hotel Savoy, steps from the beach near Paestum is an awesome place to stay. It’s super luxurious and yet surprisingly affordable.

Here’s the view of the reflecting pool from our room.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Campania? Add your suggestions in the comments below. For more posts about Italy, check out:

Art Masterpieces in Tuscany You Don’t Want to Miss

Art masterpieces in Tuscany are as thick on the ground as grapes at harvest time.

When you visit Tuscany, you’ll enjoy la dolce vita, for sure, but in between sips of some of the world’s best wine, prepare to have your breath taken away by some of the world’s most cherished art.

Let’s face it, Tuscany is the perfect storm for art lovers with its stunning scenery, amazing food, tons of history, and world-class art.  

Giant stone sculpture of a bearded man surrounded by trees, featured in an artsy traveler blog post titled “Art in Tuscany: Ten Masterpieces You Don’t Want to Miss.”

In this post, I present a selection of the art masterpieces to consider including in your Tuscany travels—whether this is your first trip or your tenth (or somewhere in between).

Top Masterpieces at a Glance

Overview

You’ll recognize some of the art included in this post, but others you may not be familiar with. I include both individual masterworks and art destinations in Tuscany.

A few of my suggested places are a fair way off the beaten path which means they won’t be crowded. 

Organization

I’ve grouped the art by location:

  • Florence
  • Villa Demidoff (Outside Florence)
  • San Gimignano
  • Siena
  • Il Giardino dei Tarocchi near Grosseto

The map of Tuscany below shows the general locations of the pieces covered in this post. See individual places for more detailed maps.

My list is in no way exhaustive. Tuscany is chock-a-block with magnificent art, and to list all of them requires books, not blog posts. This list is a starting point to help you create your own perfect Tuscany itinerary.

Art in Florence

For many travelers to Tuscany, Florence, birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, is their only destination, which is a shame. 

This wonderful city is worth visiting, and you’ll see amazing art galore, but it’s also extremely crowded and lacks the charm of other, smaller Tuscan towns, such as Siena and Lucca.

Florence Cathedral’s iconic dome and bell tower rising above a dense cluster of terracotta rooftops with mountains in the distance.
Duomo in Florence, Italy

That said, if you haven’t been to Florence, then you should include it on your itinerary. Stay at least two nights and preferably three or four.

You won’t run out of important works of art to enjoy.

Map of Florence

Florence is a very walkable and compact city. You can easily stroll between each of the main sites.

Trip map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

The Uffizi Gallery in Florence is masterpiece-central in Tuscany and a must-see. But be warned! You really, really need to make reservations for the Uffizi.

Don’t just show up hoping to walk right in. That is, unless you enjoy standing in long lines that move an inch a minute while all the people with pre-purchased tickets whisk by. It’s disheartening.

Here’s a ticket option for the Uffizi that includes a small group guided tour.

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My Favorite Pieces

Here, I’m including four of my fave masterpieces in the Uffizi. For more details, check out my post: Top Ten Favorites at the Uffizi Gallery in Spectacular Florence

The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333)

That’s a mouthful. I just call it Martini’s Annunciation. The subject of the annunciation—when the angel Gabriel flutters to earth and informs the Virgin Mary that she is to be the mother of Christ—was popular in medieval and Renaissance art.

I love this version by Martini and Memmi because of the expression on Mary’s face. She’s like, what? Seriously?

Gothic triptych altarpiece showing the Annunciation, with an angel and Mary flanked by two saints in a gilded, ornate frame.
The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333) [Public domain]

I’m also taken with the gold background and the flatness of the figures, a characteristic of 14th century art.

You’ll come across Martini’s Annunciation shortly after entering the Uffizi. A lot of people trudge right past it on a beeline for the more famous paintings by Botticelli, da Vinci, et al, but stop in the galleries of 14th-century paintings and spend some time.

You’ll be well rewarded and won’t be jostling for viewing room with thousands of selfie-stick wielders.

Annunciation by da Vinci

In later centuries, Annunciations, such as the famous one by Leonardo da Vinci below, look more realistic, but I like the energy and composition of the Martini one the best.

Since the art in the Uffizi is arranged chronologically, you’ll see da Vinci’s Annunciation after you view the Martini and Memmi version.

Leonardo da Vinci’s “Annunciation” painting, showing the angel Gabriel greeting the Virgin Mary with a serene garden backdrop.
The Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci: Public Domain

Birth of Venus by Botticelli (1485)

You’ve probably seen many reproductions of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. The goddess of beauty and love arrives on the island of Cyprus, born of the sea spray and blown by the winds Zephyr and Aura (seen in the top left corner).

Venus perches on the edge of a giant scallop shell as goddesses are wont to do. She’s just so danged perfect.

I mean, look at that hair!

“Birth of Venus” depicting the goddess Venus emerging from a seashell on the sea, with figures blowing wind and a robed woman awaiting her arrival.
Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli: Public Domain

The room containing several paintings by Botticelli is generally really crowded. If possible, visit the Uffizi early or late in the day so you can swoon in relative solitude.

Other Works by Botticelli

In addition to Birth of Venus, you’ll also see Botticelli’s equally famous Primavera along with several more of his paintings exhibited in four consecutive rooms.

And once you’ve finished looking at the real things, you can buy them on just about every knick-knack known to humanity in the many gift shops lining the streets of the city.

Primavera mouse pad? Sure. Birth of Venus apron? Definitely.

Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi

Hooray for Artemisia Gentileschi, one of the first recognized woman artists of the Baroque period. Several other women artists from the period (and earlier) have gained notice in recent years, but Artemisia is the one most people think of when asked to name a woman artist from back in the day.

She was also the first woman to be admitted to the Academy of Art and Design in Florence, which was no small feat at the time.

Artemisia’s painting of Judith beheading poor old Holofernes (hey, he deserved it) is an amazing work. Look at Judith’s muscles as she holds down Holofernes.

This subject was a favorite of the period, and male artists usually depicted Judith as a bit of an ethereal wimp. Not Artemisia. She doesn’t shy away from showing the sheer brute strength that Judith would need to saw the head off a man.

She and her maid are working hard!

Dramatic Baroque painting by Artemisia Gentileschi, depicting Judith and her servant beheading Holofernes with expressions of intense determination.
Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi: Public Domain

Two Amazing Davids 

That’s Davids plural because in Florence you must see the super-famous David by Michelangelo as well as the not-quite-so-famous-but still-awesome David by Donatello.

Both Davids represent the Renaissance in different ways.

Michelangelo’s David

The most famous statue of David is the one created by Michelangelo and displayed in the Accademia, another place for which you must secure reservations or risk a long line-up.

David stands with magnificent insouciance at the end of a long hallway lined with other works by Michelangelo.

Some of these works are unfinished—human figures emerging half-formed from marble blocks. I like these works almost more than the finished sculptures because they show the process of turning blocks into humans.

Close-up of Michelangelo’s David statue, showing detailed facial features and the muscular hand gripping a stone sling.
Michelangelo’s David in the Accademia Gallery

When you finally work your way up to the front of the line and stand in front of David in all his naked glory, you’ll know what all the fuss is about.

He is magnificent.

Although sculpted from marble, the muscles and sinews appear to pulse with life. Every inch of him is perfection—a testament to the beauty and power of the human form.

I remember wandering around the back of him and staring up at a pair of buttocks that any gym rat would kill for. While thinking unholy thoughts, I was joined by a bevy of nuns. They weren’t speaking English, so I couldn’t understand what they were saying, but they were definitely smiling—and, truth be told, giggling.

Well, no wonder.

Here’s an topin for purchasing your timed-entry ticket to see Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia.

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Donatello’s David

Donatello’s David at the marvelous Bargello Museum (reservations also recommended) might as well be a different species.

Where Michelangelo’s marble-carved David is tall, strong, and, let’s face it, hunky, Donatello’s bronze David is relaxed, laid-back, and kind of pretty.

He wears a hat festooned with flowers and leans on his sword, one hand on his hip. He’s like, come on Goliath, I dare ya to come at me.

Donatello’s David is famous for being the first free-standing bronze sculpture since antiquity.

A bronze statue of David by Donatello, viewed from behind. The sculpture showcases a youthful, lightly dressed figure wearing a hat and boots, with one foot resting on the severed head of Goliath, displayed in a dimly lit interior space.

The Bargello Museum—a former prison—includes many more wonderful artworks to enjoy, including sculptures by Benvenuto Cellini and works by Michelangelo, including his statue of Bacchus.

Fra Angelico at the Museo di San Marco

The Museo di San Marco is a little off the beaten path which means it’s not crowded—a relief in Florence.

The museum is housed in the former Dominican Monastery (called the Convento di San Marco) where Fra’ Angelico lived as a monk from 1436 to 1455 and painted his stunning frescoes.

Wander down the long corridor flanked on either side by the monk’s cells and stop at each cell to view Fra’ Angelico’s frescoes. I love the way he painted angel wings—very art deco-looking and colorful.

A fresco depicting the Annunciation by Fra Angelico. The image shows the Archangel Gabriel, with golden wings and a pink robe, addressing the Virgin Mary, who is seated and holding a book, within an arched architectural setting.
Annunciation by Fra Angelico in Cell 3: Public Domain

The museum contains numerous frescoes by Fra’ Angelico, including the magnificent fresco in the Chapter House and his famous version of the Annunciation located at the top of the stairs leading to the cells. As I mentioned, I’m partial to Annunciations, and Fra’ Angelico’s version is one of the best.

Savonarola: A Burning Tale

You can also peek into the cell once occupied by the infamous Savonarola, who preached vociferously against greed and luxury and denounced clerical corruption, despotic rule, and the exploitation of the poor.

Unfortunately for Savonarola, he went too far with his well-intended but over-the-top spectacles, including his Bonfires of the Vanities, and ended up hanged and burned in 1498.

Oops.

Brancacci Chapel

The attraction at the lovely Brancacci Chapel across the Arno in a quieter and less touristy area of Florence are the gorgeous frescoes by Masaccio and Masolino. The Chapel is located away from the tourist hordes and requires a pleasantly long walk through a Florentine neighborhood in which people actually live.

I stopped for lunch at a café with three tiny tables perched on the edge of the sidewalk and enjoyed being the only tourist in the vicinity.

I was entertained watching a group of well-heeled, impeccably dressed Florentine businessmen lunching nearby. Each man looked like he’d stepped straight out of one of the Renaissance frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel.

Substitute business suits for tights and cloaks and not much has changed.

Fresco of biblical figures gathered in a public square, with medieval architecture in the background. The figures are interacting with a beggar on the left and people seated on the right.
The Healing of Tabitha by Masolino at the Brancacci Chapel: Public Domain

Admission to the Brancacci Chapel is limited so purchase your tickets in advance. Tickets from this site let you skip the line, and provide a video guide.

You’ll be struck by the vivid colors in the Masaccio and Masolino frescoes commissioned in 1424. The Expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise is especially evocative.

Other Suggestions for Florence

Palazzo Davanzati

Tour this medieval palazzo to discover what life was like for wealthy people in the early Renaissance. I had a great visit even though the guided tour was in Italian.

It didn’t matter; I could still get a good idea of how people lived.

A highlight is the painted walls in many of the rooms. When I was writing my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, I often envisioned the layout of the rooms in the Palazzo Davanzati as I wrote.

Here’s an option for a private guided tour of the Palazzo Davanzati, which would be well worth your time if you are interested in how rich people lived seven hundred-odd years ago.

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Boboli Gardens

Treat yourself to a refreshing walk through these beautiful gardens with spectacular views over Florence and the Tuscan countryside.

A path in the Boboli Gardens of Florence, lined with lush green hedges and trees, leading up a hill with statues and classical structures dotting the landscape.
The beautifully green Boboli Gardens

When it’s hot (as it often is in the summer), do yourself a favor and escape the crush of tour groups in the center of the city and take a taxi across the Arno to the Boboli Gardens.

Florence overflows with interesting museums and churches and artwork to keep you busy for days.

And don’t forget shopping! Florence is the place in Tuscany to buy leather goods (although they can be cheaper in Siena but without as much choice).

Tours in Florence

Here are some Get Your Guide tour options in Florence.

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Villa Demidoff – Outside Florence

In the gardens of the Villa Demidoff in Pratolino, about ten kilometers north of Florence in the beautiful Tuscan countryside, you can visit the aptly named Colossus. A seated figure that appears to be half rock, half man broods on an outcropping above a pond.

I adore this statue!

It’s just so darned unexpected. We visited a hot summer’s day and were captivated. The 35-foot tall Colossus is a colossal (ha!) statue created in the late 1500s by the Italian sculptor Giambologna.

The Appennine Colossus, a large stone sculpture of a mythical figure crouching with a flowing beard, surrounded by lush greenery in the gardens of Villa Demidoff in Tuscany.
Colossus at the Villa Demidoff 

Despite his size, Colossus looks quite melancholy, as if he wished he could rise from the rocks keeping him captive and clomp off to a quiet grove where no one would take selfies with him.

Inside Colossus are various chambers.

Other Sites in the Gardens

The gardens are home to several more interesting features, including the hexagonal Chapel of Buontalenti, a fantastic dragon sculpture behind Colossus, the Cupid’s grotto, and the fountain of Jupiter.

The park is open every weekend from April to October, and admission is free. Before you go, check opening times on the park website.

For a good day out, rent a car and drive north to enjoy the park and the surrounding area, then have dinner in Fiesole while watching the sun set over Florence in the valley below.

You can also take a bus to Pratolino: catch the ATAF bus #25A from Piazza San Marco – the “A” is important. SITA also offers service to Pratolino from the main stop in SMN Piazza Stazione and CAP, with stops on Via Nazionale in Florence.

Art Masterpieces in Siena

Hands down, Siena is my favorite city in Tuscany. I never tire of wandering its narrow streets and then emerging, dazzled by the sun, into the Piazza del Campo—or Il Campo.

Called the most beautiful living room in Italy, Il Campo takes my breath away every time.

Campo in Siena at sunset
The breathtaking Campo 

The first time I went to Siena by myself, I was so overcome with emotion by finally making it to the Campo, where several important scenes in my novel The Towers of Tuscany take place, that I dropped to my knees, lay down on my back, and took a selfie.

Carol Cram lying on a patterned brick surface--the Campo in Siena, smiling at the camera, with sunlight casting shadows on the historic herringbone-patterned pavement.
Relaxing on the 14th-century bricks of the Campo in Siena

Fortunately, no one batted an eye. Several people were doing the same, their backs warmed by bricks laid in the 1330s, not long before the Black Death carried away half of the medieval city’s population.

Siena is very compact, which is a good thing because the only way to get around is by walking. Fortunately, you can stroll between the two major sites–the cathedral and the palazzo publicco in just a few minutes. Use the map below to orient yourself.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

Piccolomini Library in the Cathedral 

I single out the Piccolomini Library as one of two must-see masterpieces in Siena, but really, the entire cathedral (also known as the Duomo) is worth a half-day of your touring time.

You can skip the line by buying your tickets ahead. Your ticket is also good for the baptistery, crypt, and the Opera museum—all must-sees.

The exterior of the Siena Cathedral with its Gothic facade, intricate carvings, a large rose window, and the towering striped bell tower under a dramatic sky.
Cathedral Square and Duomo 

Cathedral of Siena

A superb example of the Gothic Roman style in Italy, the Cathedral (the Duomo) is full of treasures. Marvel at the Duomo’s indoor and outdoor alternating stripes in white and greenish-black marble.

Black and white are the symbolic colors of Siena.

Unlike the sparse interiors of some cathedrals in Italy, the interior of the Duomo is fantastically decorated.

Carol Cram standing in front of the Siena Cathedral with its black-and-white striped bell tower, dome, and cityscape of Siena visible in the background.
Overlooking the Duomo 

Look for the statue of St. John the Baptist by Donatello to the right after the Piccolomini Library, the rose window by Duccio di Buoninsegna, and the marble pulpit by Nicola Pisano, along with many gorgeous frescoes.

One of the most beautiful parts of the cathedral is its floor. You can spend hours wandering around the huge mosaics to “read” the stories.

The fifty-six etched and inlaid marble panels were designed between 1369 and 1547 by forty leading artists.

Piccolomini Library

And then there’s the Piccolomini Library itself. This place was a surprise to me. I hadn’t heard of it and so was in for a treat when I entered and had the breath knocked out of me (figuratively speaking).

The elaborately decorated ceiling of the Piccolomini Library in the Siena Cathedral, adorned with vibrant frescoes, geometric patterns, and intricate gold detailing.
Ceiling in the Piccolomini Library 

The library is dedicated to Enea Silvio Piccolomini, an immensely powerful man in the mid 1400s who was elected Pope Pius II in 1458.

The big draw in the library are the frescoes by Pinturicchio.

Each of the ten scenes representing important stages in the life of Pope Pius II is exquisitely painted. The colors, perspective, figures, and backgrounds are incredibly detailed and evocative of their time. I was mesmerized.

Maestà Altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna

While you’re hanging around the Duomo, don’t miss the Opera museum (it’s part of your ticket) so you can admire the Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna that was commissioned by the cathedral in 1311.

I like the altarpiece because it’s gorgeous and because it makes a cameo appearance in my novel, The Towers of Tuscany.

A colorful religious painting depicting the Virgin Mary seated with baby Jesus, surrounded by saints and angels, all framed by intricate golden details and smaller portraits of religious figures.
Central panel of the Maestà, 1308–1311, by Duccio di Buoninsegna. Museo dell’Opera metropolitana del Duomo, Italy

Palazzo Pubblico 

You can’t miss the Palazzo Pubblico in Il Campo. The much-photographed red brick palazzo that looks like a child’s drawing of a castle has become one of the most recognized views in Siena. I’ve taken my share of photos of it and the adjacent Torre Mangia.

The Palazzo Pubblico in Siena, Italy, with its tall Torre del Mangia against a clear blue sky, showcasing medieval architecture with its red brick facade and ornate clock tower.
Palazzo Pubblico 

The Palazzo Pubblico dates from the early 14th century and played an important role in ensuring Siena enjoyed relative peace from the late 13th century to 1355.

While you tour the Museo Civico, read about the “Government of the Nine”, the system of government that consisted of nine representatives of the people elected from the middle class and not from the noble families. This relatively democratic form of government was responsible for commissioning many civic works of art in the first half of the 14th century.

Museo Civico – Torre Mangia

The Museo Civico is located on the first floor of the Palazzo Pubblico, which still functions as Siena’s city hall.

Enter the courtyard called the Cortile del Podestà to access the Museo Civico and, if you’re feeling energetic, climb the 400 steps to the top of the Torre Mangia.

The view is spectacular, but the narrow staircase is claustrophobic and, in the summer, very hot. I’ve climbed the Torre Mangia once and do not feel the need to do so again.

Frescoes in Sala del Mappamondo

There are plenty of interesting things to look at in the Museo Civico, but the big draw are the frescoes by Simone Martini and Ambrogio Lorenzetti.

The two large frescoes by Simone Martini are located in the massive hall called Sala del Mappamondo. You can’t miss it. To your left as you enter the hall is the Maestà by Simone Martini. The gorgeous fresco shows the Madonna seated on a throne with the Child and surrounded by angels and saints. Note all the haloes!

A large fresco painting featuring the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus, seated on a throne and surrounded by saints, angels, and other religious figures in a richly decorated frame.
Maestà by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico: Public Domai

Turn around and at the other end of the hall you’ll see the fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano, a general on his horse with the castles he just conquered in the distance. You’ll see reproductions of this piece in a lot of souvenir shops.

I love how Guidoriccio and his horse are wearing the same ensemble. Very stylish.

 A medieval fresco showing a knight on horseback in elaborate armor, set against a backdrop of rolling hills, castles, and a fortified city.
Fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain

Frescoes in the Sala dei Nove

Now walk into the Sala dei Nove—the Hall of the Nine—to see Siena’s most famous masterpiece: the fresco cycle called Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti.

You’ll get a sore neck looking up at the three wall-size frescoes, famous because they’re interesting to look at and because they depict secular subjects instead of religious ones—a rarity at the time (1340s).

I love the girls dancing in the Good Government fresco (pictured below). Take a seat and enjoy gazing up at the frescoes. Whenever I’ve been to the Sala dei Novel, I’ve been pretty much alone.

Although famous, these frescoes aren’t that famous which means you’re likely able to enjoy them crowd-free.

A medieval fresco by Ambrogio Lorenzetti depicting a bustling city scene with buildings, people, horses, and vibrant daily life.
Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Pubblico: Public Domain

Other Suggestions for Siena

Siena is worth at least two days of your time, although people often squeeze it in as an afternoon trip from Florence. Please don’t do that!

Compared to overcrowded Florence, this wonderful small city is a medieval treat. Make room in your itinerary for a proper visit so you have ample time to get to know this delightful city. You won’t find many big-ticket sites, but that’s not the point of Siena.

Here are some options for touring Siena and other nearby locations:

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And when you’re not enjoying the art, spend time wandering the back streets of Siena.

Enjoy a cappuccino in one of the cafés overlooking the Campo and buy yourself a leather purse or two. They are far more reasonably priced here than in Florence. My collection is growing!

Art Masterpieces in San Gimignano

San Gimignano is overrun with tourists and crammed with tacky tourist shops. And yet I love it!

Every time we visit Tuscany, we stay for a few days in the vicinity of San Gimignano. We usually spend the day either touring around the countryside or staying put in our hotel to write (me) and draw (Gregg).

The skyline of San Gimignano, with multiple medieval stone towers and bell towers rising above the terracotta rooftops, framed by trees and a clear blue sky.
San Gimignano

Then, towards the end of the afternoon when the parking lots surrounding Gimignano start to empty, we venture forth.

By 4 or 5 pm, the tour busses have lumbered off, the merchants are standing outside their shops taking a much-needed break, the hot streets are shaded by the towers, and the whole town seems to exhale with relief.

Stroll virtually deserted side streets in search of art and food (in that order). For a small hill town, San Gimignano punches above its weight in excellent restaurants.

You’ll see a lot of art in San Gimignano, but don’t miss these two sites which fortunately are close to each other:

Palazzo Comunale in the Civic Museum

Located next to the Duomo, the Civic Museum also includes the Torre Grossa—the tallest of San Gimignano’s seventeen towers and the only one you can climb.

I have climbed it, and it’s worth doing, but the real draw are the frescoes in the chamber of the Podestà in the Palazzo Comunale (which also has other good art to enjoy).

A panoramic view of San Gimignano’s historic skyline, with its famous stone towers rising above the red-tiled rooftops, surrounded by green countryside.
View from the top of the Torre Grossa in San Gimignano

Snares of Love

The series of frescoes is called the “snares of love”, painted by Memmo di Filippucio between 1303 to 1310.

Scenes show both profane love and scenes from marriage. I love the secular nature of these frescoes, especially the one where the young married couple share a bathtub.

A medieval fresco depicting two people sitting in a large wooden tub, one with a head covering, set against a background of rich red and gold fabric.
One of the frescoes in the Palazzo Comunale Civic Museum in San Gimignano

Frescoes in the Duomo of San Gimignano

The Duomo also contains an amazing number and variety of frescoes. Every wall on both sides of the nave is filled with frescoes, most dating from the 1300s.

The vivid colors are original; the frescoes have never required restoration.

A medieval fresco showing a lavish feast with two crowned figures at a banquet table, surrounded by servants, musicians, and a depiction of a heavenly figure above.
Fresco in the Duomo at San Gimignano by Bartolo di Fredi [CC BY-SA]

Get the audio guide and walk slowly around the frescoes, picking out scene after scene from the Old and New Testaments. Even if you’re not into Bible stories, you can’t help but be entranced by these frescoes. I enjoy studying the clothing and the facial expressions for inspiration.

Pick up a ticket to the Museum of Sacred Art in the Duomo that includes an audio guide from this link.

Other Suggestions for San Gimignano

Climb to the top of the ruined Fortezza (fortress) at the highest point in San Gimignano to enjoy spectacular views over the countryside.

Even when the main street is heaving with sweaty tourists, the Fortezza is usually virtually empty.

San Gimignano 1300

One of my favorite museums in San Gimignano is San Gimignano 1300, located in a side street close to the Piazzale Comunale.

Here you’ll view a scale model of San Gimignano as it appeared in 1300.

A detailed miniature model showcasing the medieval town of San Gimignano, with tall stone towers and terracotta-roofed buildings closely packed together.

You may also be able to pick up a copy of The Towers of Tuscany at San Gimignano 1300. I first visited the exhibit back in 2011 when I was researching my novel, and have returned many times since.

Grosseto – Il Giardino dei Tarocchi

Fancy a break from old style art (much as we love it)? Then get a fabulous modern art fix at The Tarot Garden (Il Giardino dei Tarocchi).

Here is where you’ll see a stunning collection of whimsical sculptures by modern artist Niki Saint Phalle. The sculptures are based on the Tarot cards and are a must-see if you’re looking for something far off the beaten path.

And the sculptures are a nice break from the medieval and Renaissance masterpieces that make up most of the art in Tuscany.

A whimsical sculpture from the Tarot Garden, representing a crescent moon forming a face, balanced atop a red figure resembling a lobster, supported by two animal-like figures on a multicolored base surrounded by greenery.
A vibrant mosaic sculpture of a fantastical figure from the Tarot Garden, featuring colorful, mirror-covered legs, outstretched arms, and a sun-like face, set amidst lush greenery under a bright blue sky.

We spent a full hour wandering around the gardens on a hot afternoon in September. Although I took tons of photographs, they don’t do the sculptures justice. You have to visit the gardens and touch the sculptures, walk inside them, and sit on them to fully appreciate them.

When you go, check the website for the current opening hours. Usually, the gardens are open daily from April 1 to October 15 from 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm. In the winter, the gardens are open only on the first Saturday of the month from 9 am to 1 pm.

Where to Stay in Tuscany

I don’t think I’ve ever stayed in a sub-standard place in Tuscany. You are spoiled for choice! While prices will not be low if you’re looking for comfort and convenience (my two must-haves!), you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous views, friendly proprietors and il dolce vita!

Here are four of my favorite places I’ve stayed around Tuscany:

  • Sant’Antonio Country Resort near Montelpulciano: Fantastic place to kick back and relax. Stay for a week! I write a whole post about my experience staying there.
  • Agriturismo Casanova di Pescille near San Gimignano: You’ll need a car, but this place (and a handful more in the area) is just about perfect.
  • Serristori Palace Residence in Florence: this spacious apartment is right on the river and about a ten minute walk into the center of Florence. Highly recommended.
  • I Merli di Ada in Siena: this place is delightful! It’s very centrally located with lovely hosts and a comfy and spacious room.

Summary

My list of must-see art masterpieces barely scratches the surface of all the wonderful art you can enjoy when you slow down and take time to get to know Tuscany in all its glory.

Plan to spend two weeks enjoying the many beautiful towns and villages: Montalcino, Montepulciano, Lucca, Pisa, Volterra…the list goes on. Take a walking holiday or book into an agritourism property and settle in for a week of great food and long, warm days.

For more information about traveling in Tuscany see Exploring Tuscany, Umbria and La Dolce Vita and Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Ciao!

Visit Rome’s Best Kept Literary Oasis: The Keats-Shelley House

If you’re a fan of English Romantic poets, then you must make a pilgrimage to the Keats-Shelley House in Rome.

This lovely little literary museum is nestled right next to the world famous Spanish Steps in Rome. Thousands of visitors mill around the piazza in front of the steps, climb the steps, and take pictures of the steps.

Yes, the steps really are very attractive–lots of flowers and a striking two-tower church at the top.

Pinterest graphic with the text The Keats-Shelley House. Above the text is a picture of the interior of the museum with old style bookcases. The picture below the text shows busts of the poets Keats and Shelley.

But in the end, the steps are, well, steps. If you go to the Spanish Steps, take a quick pic and then veer right to visit the Keats-Shelley House. You’re in for a first-rate Artsy Traveler experience.

Literary Leanings

If you’ve been reading the Artsy Traveler blog for awhile, you probably know that I write mostly arts-inspired historical novels. My first three novels feature a painter (The Towers of Tuscany), a composer (A Woman of Note), and an actress (The Muse of Fire).

So, as a novelist, I’m a lover of literature, and what could be more literary than two of the greatest Romantic poets?

Also, back in the day when I went to university in England, I took my degree in English Literature. As a result, I studied a lot of poetry, particularly by Shelley.

So to enter rooms where Keats and Shelley hung out, really is a pilgrimage.

A richly stocked library with bookshelves filled with over 8,000 volumes, considered one of the finest Romantic literature collections in the world.

Touring the Keats-Shelley House

The Keats-Shelley House is extremely easy to find thanks to its location next to the Spanish Steps. You’ll also see the banner hanging outside.

The Keats-Shelley House is open from 10 to 1 and 2 to 6, and includes a special rate for seniors.

The ticket person got on my good side by telling us we didn’t qualify for the senior’s rate because it’s only for people over 65. Awww. That was kind of her.

But needless to say, I corrected her and got the reduced rate.

You enter the museum and climb to the first floor where you’ll find the tiny gift shop (more on that later) and the ticket taker.

After paying the entrance fee, turn right to tour a series of beautiful rooms containing a great many treasures and curiosities associated with the lives and works of several of the Romantic poets and their associates.

You’ll see letters written by Keats, Shelley, Bryon, Mary Shelley, Wordsworth, and other luminaries from the time. The evenness of their penmanship puts most modern folks to shame!

Also on display are drawings, snippets of poetry, paintings, and other memorabilia. The explanations are clear and informative.

Why The Poets Loved Italy

Back in the 18th and 19th centuries, with a decade or two off during the beginning of the 19th century for the Napoleonic Wars, Italy was a mecca for poets and writers from northern climes, including the Romantic poets from England, and Goethe from Germany.

These writers loved Italy’s warm weather, easy-going life, and the inspiration to be found in so many centuries of history. What attracted them to Italy back then isn’t so very different from what attracts me to Italy today.

It’s a very special country with so much to offer. No wonder I keep coming back year after year!

Rooms in the Keats-Shelley House

The rooms in the Keats-Shelley House include a library of more than 8,000 volumes. It’s considered one of the finest libraries of Romantic literature in the world.

Thoughtfully presented displays provide you with a lot to read as you prowl around the rooms. You could spend a great deal of time here!

library in Keats shelley house in Rome

The tour through the rooms ends at the tiny bedroom where John Keats died on February 23, 1821 at the age of just 25. It’s astonishing how he was able to compose so much sublime poetry in so few years. The museum includes plenty of information in English and Italian about Keats, his life, his tragic death, and of course his poetry.

Was it a vision, or a waking dream?
Fled is that music:—Do I wake or sleep?

From Ode to a Nightingale

Here is the bed on which Keats died.

A simple bedroom where poet John Keats passed away, showcasing a modest bed and period furnishings.

Byron’s Bicentenary

At first, I was mystified by the several banners related to Byron on display in the main library. After all, it’s the Keats-Shelley House. The very friendly and knowledgeable attendant told us that the House is celebrating the Bicentenary of Byron’s death in 1824.

His poetry is figured prominently on red banners. I haven’t read Byron for many years, so it was a real treat to reacquaint myself with some of his poetry.

banner containing poetry by Byron at the Keats-Shelley House in Rome

We had a great chat with the attendant about the poets, Mary Shelley and her mum Mary Wollstonecraft, and the arts in general.

I mentioned that I’d interviewed Samantha Silva, author of Love and Fury about Mary Wollstonecraft on The Art In Fiction Podcast. Since the attendant was obviously interested in the era, I figured she may want to read the novel (highly recommended, by the way). She was delighted to learn about it and promised to look up the podcast.

I also told her about my novels and gave her one of my bookmarks because, well, marketing.

The Terrace

A highlight of a visit to the Keats-Shelley House is walking out on to the sweet little terrace overlooking the Spanish Steps. Imagine Keats and the gang sitting out there on a warm May afternoon sipping tea and talking poetry!

It’s pretty cool to think that the view Keats saw wasn’t all that dissimilar to the view we see today.

A vibrant view of the Spanish Steps in Rome, adorned with colorful flowers, leading up to the twin towers of Trinità dei Monti Church. Visitors gather around the piazza in front of the steps.

The house included drawings of the Piazza Spagna and the steps in the early 19th century, and indeed, not much has changed if you look above the ground floor shops.

The Gift Shop

After thoroughly enjoying touring the rooms, we exited via the gift shop. I couldn’t resist buying myself a cloth bag with a Grecian Urn on it, homage to Keats’s Ode to a Grecian Urn.

I also studied the collection of fridge magnets. We’ve taken to buying them most places we visit. Back home, our fridge door is getting pretty full up, but there’s always room for one more, or in this case, three.

I couldn’t decide which magnet to buy–Keats, Shelley, or Bryon–and so I bought all three.

Here they are–Keats on the left, Shelley in the middle, and Byron on the right. These guys were all in the twenties and early thirties when they were hanging out together, and all three died young.

They’re a bit like the rock stars of their time–living with unbridled passion and energy that burned out quickly, but wow, what a legacy they each left in their wake!

Keats, Shelley, Byron fridge magnets

Conclusion

Have you visited the Keats-Shelley House in Rome? What did you think Share your impressions in the comments below for other Artsy Travelers.

Artsy Tours in Rome

I couldn’t find any literary-themed tours in Rome on GetYourGuide, so here’s a selection of tours related to music and also a tour of locations mentioned in Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code series.

Note that I include tours listed on the GetYourGuide website because I’ve taken and enjoyed many of their tours.

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Other Literary Leaning Posts on Artsy Traveler

interior of colosseum in Rome

How Not to Tour the Colosseum in Rome

You’ve arrived in Rome! Maybe, you’ve been lucky enough to have your taxi whisk you past the Colosseum on your way to your accommodations.

There it is! It’s huge! OMG!

We’re in the Eternal City!

This is SO cool!

The upper facade of the Colosseum with arches and weathered stone against a bright blue sky. Overlaid text reads, “How Not to Tour the Colosseum in Rome,” with the website "artsytraveler.com" at the bottom.

Yes, the Colosseum in Rome is impressive and iconic. It’s the symbol of Rome and one of the seven wonders of the world. Millions of visitors come from all over the globe to see it. They snap selfies in front of it, gaze out over its ruined amphitheater, and stand in line-ups for hours.

My question is–should you bother? My answer? It depends!

Tours & Accommodations at a Glance

My Rome Colosseum History

Since my first visit to Rome in 1974, I’ve popped into the Colosseum four times. Three of those visits were great.

The most recent one was a nightmare.

The Colosseum itself hasn’t changed much apart from some restoration work over the decades. It’s still a massive ruin that, while impressive, bears little similarity to the magnificent original built over two thousand years ago.

Earthquakes, looting, and the general wear and tear of two millennia, not to mention the shuffling feet of millions and millions of visitors have taken their toll.

What has changed for visitors in recent years is just how incredibly crowded the Colosseum has become. The Colosseum ranks as the number one tourist attraction in Rome. Even St. Peter’s and the Vatican aren’t that crowded (although they are pretty much overrun).

Although I have no way of knowing for sure, I get the feeling during my most recent visit to the Colosseum that many people are ticking it off their must-see list, whether they are enjoying it or not. What a shame! Rome is so much more fabulous than the Colosseum.

The Colosseum is amazing, for sure. But is it worth your time to go inside when you can snap a photo like the one below with zero effort?

Exterior of the Colosseum in Rome showing columns and blue sky.

Should You Visit Rome and Not Go to the Colosseum?

Gasp! Should you do it? If you want to enjoy this marvelous city and you’re visiting between April to October, then I say yes, give the Colosseum a miss. Also forget the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel. You might consider visiting St. Peter’s since in my experience, the line moves fairly briskly and at least you’re outdoors for most of the wait.

But back to the Colosseum. In this post, I’ll describe my latest visit. You can then decide for yourself if it’s worth several hours of your precious sightseeing time. Or, would you be better off skipping the crowds and heading for some of the city’s quieter and infinitely more lovely sights such as the cosy Keats-Shelley House near the Spanish Steps?

Signing Up for a Colosseum Tour: Smart Idea or ?

As a savvy traveler (or at least so I like to think!), I know that the early visitor beats the crowds. The two-hour guided tour of the Colosseum I sign up for starts at 8 am and guarantees first entry into the site.

I imagine wandering through deserted passageways, the morning sun slanting pleasingly across the ancient ruins. The only sounds are the murmurs of the guide, a few tweeting birds, and perhaps the whispers of long-gone gladiators wafting up from the cells beneath the arena.

I mean, who starts sightseeing so early in the morning? For sure, I’ll have the place to myself along with a handful of other intrepid travelers willing to sign up for an early morning tour.

Finding the Tour

Promptly at 7:50 am, I arrive at the meeting point across the street from one of the entrances to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. A small crowd of at least fifty people all proffering cell phones is my clue that I’m in the right place. I wait patiently for the beleaguered guide to check my phone, declare me valid, and press a small white sticker onto my chest. It’s now about 8:10 am, so obviously the tour doesn’t actually start at 8 am.

While waiting, I snap a photo of the Roman Forum across the street. It looks splendid in the early morning sun of one of the first really warm days I’ve experienced in Rome on my current trip in early May.

A daytime view of the Roman Forum, showing historic stone buildings, a bell tower, and a dome against a blue sky. Greenery and trees surround the ancient structures, with traffic lights in the foreground.

Waiting to Enter the Colosseum

Several minutes later, we are ushered across the road to the entrance gate and told that the ticket takers open at 8:30 and that we will be first! (said with enthusiasm, like it is a rare treat and not what we’ve signed up for).

Ticket takers? I’d neglected to read the fine print of the tour. The cost does not include the cost of entry into the archaeological site which includes the Forum and Palatine Hill in addition to the Colosseum.

A word of warning: Check what’s included in your tour and opt for a tour that includes the entry cost so the guide already has your tickets.

Lesson learned, I prepare to wait in line (at least I am close to the front) until the ticket booths open at 8:30–another fifteen minutes. After all, the guide has assured us that we’ll be first into the Colosseum. Isn’t that worth waiting a few extra minutes for?

Remember the tweeting birds, the silence of the ancient stones, the gladiator ghosts reminiscing about gladiator fights, the glorious isolation!

Buying a Ticket to the Colosseum

At precisely 8:40 am, the ticket takers open the two wickets and the first people in line eagerly step forward to buy their tickets. Yahoo! The line will surely go quickly and I’ll be inside the Colosseum communing with history and getting tons of inspiration for my next novel in no time flat.

8:50 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth.

9:00 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth. Oh wait! One of the groups has left and another couple has stepped forward. But at the other booth, the same four people are still talking with the attendant. What can they be talking about? What’s the holdup? Are they sharing recipes? Have they found a long-lost cousin? What gives?

The guide comes by and tells us to have our passports out and ready to show the ticket takers. What? I don’t have my passport with me although fortunately I do have my driver’s license. I ask the guide if that will do. Yes. Phew.

Another five minutes goes by and the first group of four finally leaves the booth. They are looking weary but relieved. I’d love to ask them what went down, but of course I don’t dare risk losing my place in line.

The next group steps forward. I take to counting to gauge how long they stay at the booth. Sixty seconds, another sixty, another sixty…five minutes and they’re done. Another ten minutes goes by during which time a few more groups get to the booth and then several minutes later step away, tickets in hand. Their per wait time is marginally decreasing.

Progress is being made.

My Turn Getting Tickets for the Colosseum

Finally, it’s my turn. I’m about to find out why it takes almost five minutes to process each person in a line that is now stretching back to the road and a considerable way along it. Did all these people book a group tour that required them to buy tickets?

I find out later that yes, they are all group tour people. The “regular” people who just want a ticket to the Colosseum without a tour buy their tickets at another booth. I’ll soon discover that many, many hundreds of them get inside the Colosseum long before we arrive.

So much for us being first!

Anyway, I’m at the booth.

“One for the Colosseum, per favore.”

“One?”

“Si.”

The attendant shakes her head as if to say what kind of a loser visits the Colosseum all by themselves first thing in the morning? I don’t share that my husband has elected to do the smart thing and spend a leisurely morning enjoying cappuccino and a walk about the chic ‘hood we’re staying in up near the Piazza del Popolo.

Instead, I push my driver’s license under the glass barrier and she places it in front of her keyboard. Then, with two stiff fingers, she laboriously starts to type. No wonder this whole process is taking forever! She has to physically enter the ID for every single person in line and she can’t touch type.

Oh dear.

After about two minutes (possibly a record), she hands me back my driver’s license, I pay with my credit card, and then I go stand with my fellow line waiters for the tour to begin.

It’s now 9:30 am.

Starting the Tour of the Colosseum–Almost

Promptly at 9:45 am, only 1 hour and 45 minutes past the tour start time, our guide leads those of us who have Colosseum tickets marked 9:15 am to another loooooong line. This is the line for all the Skip-the-Line group tours. As I said, it’s long.

Security Line at the Colosseum

We wait for another twenty minutes while the guide finally explains why progress that morning has been unusually slow. I’m at least heartened to find out that the current process is not normal. Apparently, there was a security incident (bomb scare?) a few days earlier, and since May 1 (it’s May 3rd), new procedures using a new security firm are being instituted.

Unfortunately, thorough testing is lacking so chaos reigns as the Colosseum ticket takers are obliged to enter everyone’s ID information into the computer and new security personnel are stationed at the entrances to the actual Colosseum to again check IDs and tickets.

Entering the Colosseum

We finally reach the front of the Skip-the-Line group tour line and enter the outer perimeter of the Colosseum.

It’s big. Really big—much bigger than it looks from the road with massive columns that soar way up into the blue Roman sky. Inside, the arches are truly impressive. Roman engineering is a marvel.

A long, dimly lit hallway inside the Colosseum, featuring massive stone columns and arches. Tourists walk through the corridor, which captures the grandeur and history of the ancient structure.

The guide starts her spiel while leading us to yet another line. She tells us that construction of the Colosseum began between 70 and 72 CE during the reign of the Emperor Vespasian. Before then, the area had been a lake on the grounds of Nero’s Domus Aurea (golden house).

Nero was not popular, to say the least, and so the decision to replace his private lake with a public amphitheater hosting thousands of locals was a great way to erase him from recent history.

The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with Euros so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.

Not Everyone Loves Rome

The guide takes a break from her history lesson and cheerfully asks two people in the group where they are from. They reply that they are from Austria and that never again will they come to Rome because it is horrible and dirty. I am offended on behalf of both myself and the guide who smiles gamely but I can see is a trifle nonplussed. I mean, rude much? Apparently, the Austrians booked into a hotel that is less than stellar and that has colored their whole opinion of one of my favorite cities in the world.

I want to tell them that the place we’re staying in is absolutely wonderful—clean, spacious and in an excellent location. Here’s the link to our serviced apartment called Viam 6B. It truly is one of the best places we’ve stayed in Rome, ever.

Perhaps the Austrians decided to cheap out. Rome is a fabulous place to visit, but accommodations are not budget friendly. But then you can say that about just about every destination in Europe in recent years. The days of Europe on $5 a day (or even $100 or $200 a day) belong to the middle of the last century.

The guide decides not to ask the rest of the group about their experience. The mood is already a bit iffy considering we’ve all stood in lines for more than two hours for our first-into-the-Colosseum tour and haven’t actually started touring the Colosseum. We are in it, but only just.

The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with coins so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.

Climbing to the Top of the Colosseum

And then, finally, we’re in and the tour officially begins. The guide talks to us for quite a while about the history of the Colosseum and then invites us to trudge up three flights of very steep steps to look out over the arena.

We emerge into a surging Sargasso Sea of visitors all packed cheek by jowl along the railing much like the spectators must have done during the Colosseum’s heyday. Everyone’s snapping selfies (something that wasn’t done during the days of the Roman empire) and I suppose communing with their inner gladiator. 

We walk and walk and walk some more around the perimeter to a slightly less crowded stretch of railing, and get our one minute of time to snap pics of the ancient amphitheater.

A panoramic view of the Colosseum’s interior, showcasing tiered seating, arches, and the underground chambers. Crowds of tourists walk along designated paths inside the historic amphitheater.

Yes, it’s an impressive place for sure. In its day, up to 70,000 screaming Romans watched gladiatorial combat, executions, triumphal celebrations, and other spectacles. Today, approximately 16,000 people visit the Colosseum every single day. So although the place feels very crowded to me, it is positively empty compared to what it would have been back when the arena floor was covered in sand to better absorb the blood.

The guide talks about how wild beasts were starved for days before being let loose to gnaw on convicts, Christian martyrs, and anyone else the Emperor didn’t like. It’s the odd interesting fact such as this that you get from a guided tour.

Is A Guided Tour of the Rome Colosseum Worth the Wait?

So, should you opt for a guided tour of Rome’s most famous monument, check it out on your own, or forget about it and do something that doesn’t involve rubbing shoulders (literally) with thousands of strangers?

You may have guessed my opinion, which is Door #3. The entire tour/ordeal lasted about three hours, with the smallest number of minutes devoted to the tour and the largest to waiting for the tour.

Now, to be fair, the extra security measures ate up a goodly chunk of that three hours. I don’t know if these measures will become the norm going forward, in which case be prepared for waits, or if it’s temporary. You’ll have to check that out before you book.

I don’t blame the tour guide for all the waiting. She was doing her best in difficult circumstances and to her credit remained cheerful and upbeat throughout. I gave her a 5 Euro tip which appeared to surprise her, but hey, I figure she’d earned it.

Most people either didn’t tip or gave her 5 euros for their entire party which I thought was a bit cheap of them. Tips are not required, but I think it’s a good idea to give the guide a little extra considering they probably don’t get paid all that much, and it’s a challenging job at the best of times.

Touring the Colosseum On Your Own

What about the second option—see the Colosseum on your own? I think it may be marginally the better option because you don’t need to arrive at a location two hours ahead of when you get in. Instead, you can go straight to the ticket line and take your chances. The wait could be 10 minutes or two hours.

You could also buy your ticket online. You’ll still need to stand in line-ups, but not for quite so long. It’s difficult to say. We bought our “skip-the-line” tickets to Pompeii online and still had to wait in line about 20 minutes to exchange the online tickets for real tickets.

When To Visit the Colosseum

I think the moral of the story is that whatever way you slice it, sites like the Colosseum are really, really popular. You can try to beat the crowds, but I don’t think in any universe you’ll get around waiting in long lines.

My advice? Either visit the Colosseum during the off-season (November to March) when crowds are thinner, or forget about it and go see some of the city’s other awesome sites.

Tours of the Colosseum

If you do opt for a tour (and I’m just saying, buyer beware), then GetYourGuide has plenty of tours to choose from. I suggest choosing a tour that includes a ticket to the Colosseum and the Forum so you won’t need to line up to buy your ticket separately.

Also, you may be better off booking a tour in the late afternoon or opt for one of the evening tours instead of the morning. I felt like everyone fueled up on their hotel breakfast as early as possible and made a beeline for the Colosseum as their first stop of the day. Possibly later in the day may be less frantic. 

This evening tour may be a good bet:

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Other Sites in Rome

Rome is chock-a-block full of amazing things to see and do. Here are some of my favorite sites in Rome. You’ll note that I don’t include big ticket items like the Vatican Museum, St. Peter’s, the Pantheon, and the Trevi Fountain, all of which are over-run with visitors.

These are just a sampling. There are also a ton of fabulous churches, some with Roman foundations.

My Favorite Activity in Rome

For me, my favorite Rome activity is walking around the various neighborhoods and avoiding the bottleneck areas around the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, St. Peter’s Square, and especially the Trevi Fountain. If you want to experience any of those places crowd-free, either swing by late at night or go for a very early morning stroll.

Here’s a shot taken on our way home after a scrumptious dinner in a restaurant on an atmospheric side street just steps from where we stayed at Viam 6B, which was not far from the Spanish Steps.

A narrow cobblestone street in Rome at night, lined with potted plants and historic buildings with shutters. A woman in a floral dress stands under streetlights, adding to the serene, atmospheric scene.

Accommodation Options in Rome

On my latest trip to Rome, I stayed in two places in Rome because I broke up the 2-week stay with a 5-day trip south to Naples and Paestum (read about my visit to the incomparable Naples Archaeological Museum).

For the first week, I stayed at Sant’Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome, very close to a lot of Roman ruins in addition to the Capitoline Museum and the Piazza Venezia, site of the Victor Emmanuel monument. The apartment was very atmospheric and in an excellent location for exploring ancient Rome.

After touring the Naples area, I returned to Rome and stayed at Viam 6B, located between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Popolo–a very upscale and chi-chi part of Rome with lots of designer stores. I preferred the location of the first place because the area was much less touristy and very medieval-feeling. However, the apartment at Viam 6B, was very modern and comfortable and included a beautiful outdoor terrace. It was also staffed which is nice for getting directions and ordering taxis.

But both places were great and I’d cheerfully stay in either on my next trip to Rome.

More Tour Options for Rome

Touring major sites such as the Colosseum and Vatican in Rome can get tiring. Why not take a break and opt for a more relaxing experience, such as this food tour of the lively Trastevere District (one of my favorite areas of Rome).

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Walking Tours of Rome

If you enjoy walking tours, I can recommend the tours offered by GuruWalks. Here are a few of the tours available in Rome.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Colosseum in Rome recently and not found it crowded? Do you have any tips for how to have an enjoyable visit? Please share in the comments below.

Posts About Rome

Here are some more posts about Rome, one of my very favorite cities in the world. I’ve visited eight times, and I’m not done yet!

How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

Naples-bound? Then put the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli aka the National Archaeological Museum of Naples high on your list of must-sees.

I’ve visited Pompeii twice before my most recent trip in 2024 and both times, I never managed to visit the Naples National Archaeological Museum. I came close when visiting with my family in 1994. We took a taxi from our hotel to the museum on our way to Pompeii only to find it closed.

In those pre-Google days, I’d neglected to read the guide book.

A detailed mosaic depicting various birds, plants, and animals, overlaid with the text, “Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.” The bottom section features the website "artsytraveler.com."

So on my latest trip I was determined to finally see the museum because it houses the vast majority of the art excavated from ancient Pompeii and Herculaneum and is considered one of the best archeological museums in the world.

Museum & Naples at a Glance

  • Take a guided tour of the museum
  • Museum highlights:
    • The sculpture collection, particularly Hercules at Rest
    • Collection of everyday objects is a poignant reminder of the people who lived and died in Pompeii
    • The “Zootopia” mosaic with its bevy of wild animals
    • Portrait of the poet Sappho
  • Great apartment to stay in Naples: Palazzorefici
  • Recommended tour of Naples that includes Pompeii. 

See the National Archaeological Museum of Naples First!

Now that I’ve toured the National Archaeological Museum, I can without hesitation recommend that you go there first and then tour the ruins of Pompeii and/or Herculaneum. Both cities were buried in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 CE, with excavations starting at far back as the 16th century.

As you’ll discover, Pompeii and Herculaneum are pretty much all ruins (quel surprise!) with the vast majority of the frescoes, mosaics, and statues long ago removed to the National Archaeological Museum.

Also, to be honest, wandering around Pompeii in the heat (I visited in late April and it was 30 degrees) with thousands of other visitors is not as comfortable an experience as strolling through room after room in the thoughtfully air conditioned National Archaeological Museum of Naples.

Overview of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

In this post, I’ll share some of my favorite parts of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples (MANN) with the proviso that the museum is chock-a-block with amazing objects from antiquity.

I’ve rarely seen such a beautifully appointed museum where just about every item in it is worth a stop and a good long look.

You can easily visit the National Archaeological Museum in about two to three hours, depending on your energy level. You’ll also find a good cafe so you can take a break for refueling after touring a floor or two.

I did, and it made all the difference to my enjoyment of the museum.

The exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, a grand pink building with arched windows, statues, and palm trees lining the street under a clear blue sky.
Exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples

When I toured MANN in late April, the crowds were light (unlike the next day in Pompeii!) and I waited only a few minutes at the entrance to buy tickets.

In busier times of the year, you may want to skip the ticket line by buying your tickets online from the museum’s website or through resellers such as Get Your Guide. Here’s an option that includes a guided tour:

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Plan of Attack

The museum is organized according to type of art, so you’ll find rooms full of artifacts from Pompeii, including sculptures, mosaics, everyday objects, frescoes, and coins.

I saw most of what was on display in the sculpture, mosaic, everyday objects, and fresco areas. The quality of the work is awe-inspiring.

I suggest starting with the sculptures on the ground floor and then going to the top floor and working your way down. Doing so minimizes stair climbs (there’s an elevator to whisk you to the second floor) and conserves energy.

Sculptures

Start with sculptures because they are the first things you see when you enter the museum.

Wowza! They are stunning. I didn’t expect to see so many really large sculptures that looked like they were chiseled yesterday when in fact they are almost 2000 years old.

Here’s a selection of my favorites.

Hercules at Rest

Even big guys like Hercules can use some time off now and again. This massive sculpture of old Herc shows him leaning on his club. The sculpture is a Roman copy from the end of the 2nd/beginning of the 3rd Century CE of a Greek statue from the second half of the 4th century BCE. The subject of Hercules at rest is a very popular one. It shows him exhausted and pensive after having undertaken yet another labor for his cousin Eurytheus.

While the top half of Hercules sags with fatigue, his legs and feet still look dynamic, as if he was ready to spring into action (yet again) at any moment. The sheer size of the statue took my breath away–and it’s just one of many dozens of sculptures in MANN.

A massive marble statue of Hercules standing, leaning on his club draped with a lion’s skin. The muscular figure is displayed in a grand hall with museum visitors in the background.

Hercules is part of the Farnese Collection, which was one of the first collections of artistic items from Greco-Roman antiquity.

It was started by  Cardinal Alessandro Farnese (he later became Pope Paul III) back in the 16th century when collecting antiquities started being all the rage. Many of the works in MANN are from his collection.

Dog Sculptures

Large sculptures dominate the rooms, but they are by no means the only sculptures worth admiring at MANN. Here are three incredibly charming sculptures of Roman pooches. They look like they could come to life at any minute and run toward you, tails wagging.

A marble sculpture of a dog sitting and scratching itself with its hind leg, carved with detailed musculature and a lifelike posture.
Two marble statues of dogs seated on stone bases, both with their heads tilted upwards, possibly barking or howling. The detailed carvings highlight the dogs’ muscular forms and expressive faces.
A marble statue of a dog lying down on a stone base, its body relaxed and head slightly raised. The sculpture captures the animal’s muscular build and detailed features.

Athena

Athena is the Goddess of Wisdom, along with warfare and handicrafts. The next time you pick up a knitting project, call on Athena for some extra guidance!

This sculpture (bigger than can possibly be portrayed in a photo) really shows off Athena’s robes in all their pleated glory.

A marble statue of the goddess Athena in full armor, holding out a shield-like cloth decorated with a gorgon’s face. The statue stands tall in a museum setting with visitors in the background.

Bust of a Woman

I don’t know who this is but I love her hair! At least I think the bust is of a woman’s head.

She looks a bit careworn, perhaps from having to cope with all those corkscrew locks every day. I also loved the black stone–an interesting break from the predominantly cream-colored marble used to create most of the other sculptures in MANN.

It’s hard to believe this sculpture dates back two millennia. Like most of the sculptures in MANN, the bust is in near perfect shape.

A bronze bust of a woman’s head with intricate spiral-patterned hair. The sculpture rests on a pedestal, showing lifelike facial features and detailed craftsmanship.

Petite Figure

This small statuette of a child is one of several equally adorable pieces. You can understand how the artists descended from the ones who sculpted these pieces came up with cupids!

The pieces look incredibly lifelike.

A marble sculpture of a young boy seated, holding a cornucopia filled with fruits. The sculpture captures intricate details of the boy’s curly hair and gentle expression.

Everyday Objects

For me, a highlight of the MANN collection is the vast array of household and everyday objects that were salvaged from Pompeii during excavations that began in the late 18th century. Many of the objects were remarkably preserved–pots, glassware, small statues of household gods, combs, jewelry, cooking utensils–you name it.

The ancient Roman versions of pretty much everything humans need to cook, clean, and live in houses is on display.

It turns out that Romans aren’t all that different from us when it comes to the stuff they had in their houses. Take away our electronics and indoor plumbing, and we’re left with similar objects to those used by the average Pompeii resident: wine bottles, cooking pots, jewelry, cups, combs, chairs, and the like.

Here are some particularly fine examples of the household objects salvaged from the ruins of both Herculaneum and Pompeii.

Glass Cup

Can you believe this cup is 2000 years old? I was astonished to see it in the display, but yup, according to the description. the object is a “so-called millefiori ribbon small cup” from Pompeii in the 1st century CE.

It looks like something I could buy today in Venice.

A colorful ancient glass cup with vibrant blue, green, and white stripes accented by yellow bands, displayed on a reflective surface with a small numbered label "4" in front.

Terracotta Frog

Is this little guy not the sweetest thing? It’s a statuette of a frog made from lead-glazed terracotta. I’m not sure what he was used for, but he sure caught my eye.

And he was just one of many, many such objects artfully displayed in room after well-lit room at MANN.

A terracotta sculpture of a frog with a wide mouth, seated on a base. The texture and details of the frog’s body are finely crafted.

Deep Wine Cup

Look at the handiwork on this lead-glazed terracotta wine cup! It’s decorated with vegetable motifs and doves. Imagine drinking your wine out of that!

A brown ceramic wine cup with two handles shaped like animal heads. The surface is decorated with floral patterns and intricate detailing.

Cosmetic Jar

Ladies in Pompeii wore cosmetics just like women do today. But with plastic rather lacking, they stored their cosmetics in glass containers such as the one shown below.

Again, it looks brand new! The jar is described as free-blown glass from the 1st century CE.

A cylindrical blue glass container with a fitted lid, labeled with the number "3." The container’s surface has minor scratches and signs of age.

Blue Glass Pitcher

And last but not least, I have to include this perfect example of a free-blown glass pitcher. Look at the color! There were also many, many more examples of pitchers blown in darker tones as well as clear glass.

I still can’t get over how they survived the blast, but I guess the ash buried things so thoroughly that they were preserved during the 1800 odd years they lay undisturbed. Remarkable!

A deep blue ancient glass vase with a curved handle and narrow spout, displayed against a white background. The surface shows subtle signs of wear.

Mosaics

The people of Pompeii and Herculaneum sure liked their mosaics. The floors of many houses, particularly those belonging to rich people (of which there were quite a few in Pompeii), were decorated with mosaics.

The mosaics in MANN give just a taste of just how opulent the homes must have been. The intricacy of the mosaics really is breathtaking.

Zootopia Mosaic

Here is a series of three mosaics, displayed in horizontal format, but shown here in three parts to better check out the imagery. Each of these mosaics includes a bevy of wild animals–from hippos to snakes to ducks to crocodiles. What a tour de force!

An elaborate mosaic showing a hippopotamus with an open mouth, ducks, and a crocodile in a marsh setting. The scene is filled with reeds and blooming flowers.
A detailed mosaic featuring ducks, snakes, and a boar set among water plants and flowers. The snakes are shown coiling and slithering in the water.
A vibrant mosaic depicting ducks swimming in water, surrounded by lotus flowers and plants. The ducks are shown in various poses with intricate feather details.

Dog Mosaic

The Romans definitely liked dogs! Here’s another depiction of a dog–this time in mosaic form. This image is very popular; it’s on various products sold in the gift shop, including bags, fridge magnets, and mouse pads.

I did buy a fridge magnet at the MANN gift shop, but of Sappho (see below) not the dog!

A Roman mosaic featuring a black dog on a leash, shown mid-stride with its mouth open, against a background of small white tiles. The leash is highlighted in red.

Sea Creatures

Can you imagine the imagination that concocted this delectable cornucopia of sea creatures? Wow! I particularly like the giant octopus in the middle. The mosaic also reminds me of the kinds of displays you’d see in 19th century natural history museums.

A detailed mosaic depicting various sea creatures, including fish, an octopus, a lobster, and eels, all set against a dark background. The intricate artwork highlights the diversity of marine life.

Frescoes

Paintings galore! You won’t believe how many paintings and frescoes you’ll find at MANN. This is because the Romans lavishly painted the inside walls of their villas and added painted embellishments just about anywhere there was a blank wall.

That so many of these paintings survived the eruption of Vesuvius is truly remarkable.

The Romans were unbelievably good painters. They’d mastered perspective and realism 1500 years before the Renaissance. So many of the paintings in MANN look like they could have been painted in the past few hundred years, particularly the gorgeous still lifes.

Here’s my best picks at MANN.

Isis & Snakes

Snakes are quite a recurring theme in the paintings in MANN. I’m not sure why that is; perhaps sea serpents were bigger and more threatening back in the day.

For whatever reason, you’ll see snakes depicted in mosaics and frescoes, and included as details on pots, urns, and other objects.

This fresco, which had once graced the wall of a villa in Pompeii, shows Isis hauling the boat with the body of Osiris along the Nile accompanied by snakes lurking below the surface. Cheerful.

An ancient fresco showing two busts of figures flanking a scene of a boat on water with a shrine and a bird. Beneath them are two large, coiled snakes and a small temple-like structure.

Still Lifes

I couldn’t believe the quality and quantity of still life paintings at MANN. The realism truly is incredible. I have a soft spot for still lifes (see my post about the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam where some of my fave still lifes are exhibited).

I never knew that the ancient Romans were so adept at creating them.

Here are two still lifes–one of dead birds and mushrooms, and the other of a bunny with onions.

A fresco depicting dead birds hanging on a wooden rod above a collection of mushrooms. The muted colors and detailed rendering capture a sense of realism.
A fresco still life depicting a dead rabbit lying on a wooden surface alongside figs and pomegranates. The painting shows detailed textures of the fur and fruits.

Erotica

Don’t miss the Secret Room if you’re inclined to view the museum’s extensive collection of erotic and sexually-themed objects and paintings salvaged from Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The room was finally re-opened in 2000 with a display that organizes objects according to their, ah, function and material. 

It’s a bit of an eye-opener, but definitely interesting and proving there is nothing new under the sun!

Portraits

MANN includes several portraits of Romans in its collection. One of the most famous is the portrait of the baker Therentius Neo and his wife. Don’t they look contemporary?

Walking along the streets of Naples after visiting MANN brought us face to face with several of their descendants!

A Roman fresco showing a man and a woman, both holding writing instruments and scrolls. The woman wears a red garment and the man a white tunic, symbolizing literacy and social standing.

Here is another very famous portrait, this one of the poet Sappho, or at least that’s how it’s billed. The truth is that we don’t know if the portrait is actually of Sappho. It’s rather a “typological” representation of a young woman holding a stylus and a wax tablet–two things the real poet Sappho would likely have.

Anyway, it’s nice to think the portrait really is of Sappho which is probably why the image is everywhere in the gift shop, including on the fridge magnet I bought.

A fresco depicting a woman, believed to be the poet Sappho, holding a stylus to her lips and a wax tablet in her other hand. She has curly hair and wears gold earrings, set against a cracked circular frame.

Could This be My Next Character?

And finally, I came across this lovely mosaic portrait of a young woman. According to the description, the mosaic dates to the Julian-Claudian era (27 BCE to 68 CE) in Pompeii. She’s likely pretty high born (check out the necklace).

I love how she looks directly out at the viewer. If I do decide to write a novel set in ancient Rome (and I am toying with some ideas), then this mosaic could be the image of my main character!

An ancient mosaic portrait of a young woman with dark hair tied back, wearing pearl earrings and a necklace. Her gaze is serious, and the background is composed of brown mosaic tiles

Tour Options in the Naples Area

Here are some Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com tickets and tours you may wish to consider while in the Naples area. I frequently purchase tours and tickets from Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com and have yet to be disappointed. The tours they include on their website are, in my experience, reasonably priced and interesting.

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Walking Tours of Naples

If you enjoy walking tours, then you can’t go wrong with GuruWalks. Check out their tours in Naples.

Where to Stay in Naples

Here are the two places I’ve stayed in Naples:

The Hotel Paradiso is located on Posillipo Hill and has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.

The Palazzorefici is a stylish apartment deep in the heart of Naples on a tiny side street. It’s close to a main street where you can easily get taxis to where you want to go in Naples.

Conclusion

In this post, I’ve just scratched the surface of the collection at the National Archaeological Museum of Naples. I recommend you make time in your itinerary to visit, preferably as I said earlier, before you visit Pompeii.

In fact, if I had to choose between visiting Pompeii and visiting the museum, I’d choose the museum. Yes, I know that the ruins are way more famous–and they are pretty impressive. However, they truly are mobbed with visitors.

And they are BIG! If you can, visit very early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid the heat. Alternatively, visit at a time of year when temperatures are less ferocious. There is virtually no shade anywhere.

Have you visited the National Archaeological Museum in Naples? What were some of your favorite objects? Share in the comments below.

Here are some most posts about travels in Italy:

Chef Marco stands behind a table filled with fresh ingredients, ready to lead a cooking class in Rome."

Pizza, Gelato, Suppli–Oh My! A Fantastic Cooking Class in Rome

Fancy taking a cooking class while you’re visiting Rome?

I highly recommend the experience. I’m a huge fan of taking cooking classes when I travel around interesting locales that have unique cuisines.

So far, I’ve taken a market class and a French sauces class (sweet and savory) in Paris, a tapas class in Madrid, and a pasta & tiramasu class in Rome.

Pinterest graphic with the text A Fantastic Cooking Class in Rome. Below is a picture of a pizza.

In this post, I share my experience taking a Pizza, Gelato, and Suppli-Making class in Rome.

Choosing a Class in Rome

Most cooking classes available in Rome are variations on the pasta/tiramasu class I took on an earlier trip to Rome. Fortunately, after a bit of searching on GetYourGuide, I discovered a pizza and gelato-making class.

Perfect! I signed up on Tuesday for the class on Friday.

EnjoyCooking.com with Crown Tours

I’d taken the pasta/tiramisu class with InRome Cooking, which I highly recommend. But this time, I decided to go with EnjoyCooking.com for the sake of variety and having a new company to write about on Artsy Traveler.

EnjoyCooking.com partners with Crown Tours to offer cooking classes in a lovely, brick-arched space next door to their tour office and across the street from the Colosseum.

The day before the class, I got a WhatsApp call from the company. The family that had signed up to take the class at the same time as me had canceled, leaving me on my own.

Did I want to postpone the class to the evening slot? I could not because in the evening, we had the opening of my husband Gregg Simpson’s art exhibition at Il Leone Galleria in Rome. I was assured that they were happy to still offer the class at the 10 am time slot even if I was on my own.

Lucky me!

Arrival at EnjoyCooking.com

I arrived on Friday morning and was ushered into the cooking space. There was room for eight people in a class so it was much more intimate than the class I took at InRome Cooking which hosted twelve people.

To my delight, there was one other woman in the class. Over the course of the next three hours, we bonded and had an awesome time.

Chef Marco!

But the biggest surprise was meeting the chef. In walked Marco–the same chef who had taught the pasta/tiramisu class at InRome Cooking.

I couldn’t believe it! I told him I’d taken his class and showed him the blog post. He was so excited!

Carol cram with Chef Marco at enjoycooking.com cooking class in Rome
Back again with Chef Marco, this time at EnjoyCooking.com

So that was a great way to kick off the morning.

Over the next three hours, Chef Marco led my new friend and me in a lively, hands on and informative class. I’m always amazed at how much I learn about cooking technique in these classes.

Gelato Making

We started with gelato. I discovered to my relief that the ice cream maker I’d purchased several years earlier could be dragged out, dusted off, and used to make gelato. Who knew?

We heated several pints of fresh milk in a pot over an electric hot plate. Marco informed us that the milk should be as fresh as possible–so fresh that it would spoil after three days.

Of course, getting milk that fresh is pretty much impossible in North America unless you live on a farm, which I don’t. But the next best thing is high quality organic milk.

We heated the milk and whisked in sugar followed by ten egg yolks and grated lemon zest to make limone gelato. The lemons had come from the Amalfi coast and smelled divine.

After mixing the gelato, we poured it into the commercial gelato maker that would produce perfect gelato within thirty minutes.

What an impressive looking machine!

A pot of fresh milk being heated on an electric hot plate, the first step in preparing limone gelato during a Roman cooking class

Marco informed us that we would also make raspberry sorbetto to go along with the limone gelato. Sorbetto is even faster and easier to make than gelato.

We mixed water with raspberries and once the gelato was made, we poured it into the gelato-maker (after the limone gelato was done, of course).

Here’s a video of the raspberry gelato being extruded from the gelato maker–an exceedingly beautiful and satisfying sight.

Suppli Making

I had never heard of suppli–a Roman street food that is widely available all over the city.

Marco showed us how to take rice cooked in tomatoes and form it around fresh cubes of mozzarella cheese, then bread and deep fry it. The result was a log-shaped rectangle that when still hot and pulled apart stretched the warm mozzarella cheese.

It was yummy but a bit rich for me at only 11 am!

But when in Rome!

Hands shaping rice mixed with tomatoes around fresh mozzarella cubes, crafting traditional Roman suppli in a cooking class.

Pizza Making

The main event of the cooking class was making pizza the proper way–like they make piazza in Napoli where Marco was from.

I learned that the pizza dough should be rested for two hours after mixing and then rested in the refrigerator for up to three days.

That was something new to me. I’d always let my piazza dough rise for about an hour, if that, and then cooked it. Apparently, doing so results in dough that is still fermenting when it enters your tummy. Not good!

Mixing the Pizza Dough

We mixed the dough and kneaded it for about six minutes–a very satisfying process. The dough was light and very elastic.

It was then put away to rest and presumably used for a class the next day. Marco then produced dough that had already been rested and risen for a day, and we proceeded to learn how to shape the dough into a pizza.

Handling the soft, pliant dough was such a pleasure. We didn’t learn how to throw it in the air, but we did learn a few tricks I can apply back home.

Baking the Pizza

Another tip I learned was to slather on the tomato sauce first, bake the pizza for about six minutes in a home oven (much less in a high temperature commercial oven) and then add the toppings and cook for another three to four minutes.

Who knew? I also learned that certain toppings such as prosciutto should not be cooked, but added after the pizza came out of the oven.

For best results, I was told that I should get myself a pizza stone so that’s going on my Christmas list for next year!

Topping the Pizza

After baking the pizza with the sauce, we were offered a wide array of toppings to dress our pizza. My companion chose mozzarella cheese and fresh sausage.

I chose anchovies, mushrooms, olives, and of course mozzarella cheese. Here we are making our pizzas in front of the scrumptious assortment of toppings.

Carol and her new friend stretch  pizza dough, preparing to create a Neapolitan-style pizza under Chef Marco's guidance.

Finishing the Pizzas

The pizzas went back in the oven and voila! Within minutes they were being served to us.

The first bites were wonderful–the crust slightly charred and very puffed up (the sign of a good pizza) and the toppings fresh. I managed to get through three pieces before having to give up.

Marco thoughtfully put the remainder in a pizza box for me to carry home to Gregg.

Finished pizza with anchovies and olives at cooking class in rome

After pizza, we were served the gelato we’d made earlier. OMG!

The limone gelato, in particular, was truly to die for. I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a fresher and more delightful-tasking gelato. It puts the run-of-the-mill gelatos found in gelato stores to shame. As Marco said, it’s all about using the freshest ingredients.

scoops of limone and raspberry gelatos

The class ended with me receiving my certificate and posing for a picture with Marco. I was thoroughly satisfied with my second Rome cooking experience in EnjoyCooking.com and Crown Tours.

A smile was on my face as I threaded my way through the crowds of tourists streaming past the Colosseum and Forum on my way back to our comfy little apartment in the Jewish Ghetto.

Thank you, EnjoyCooking.com and Marco for an excellent experience.

EnjoyCooking.com Class

Here’s a link to the cooking class I took through Crown Tours. As I’ve mentioned often on Artsy Traveler, I’m a very big fan of GetYourGuide.

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More Cooking Classes in Rome with GetYourGuide

Here is a selection of additional cooking classes in Rome run by both Crown Tours and other companies.

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Conclusion

Have you taken a cooking class while traveling? Share your experience in the comments below!

Here are some more posts about cooking classes:

Why Sensational Siena Belongs on Your List of Top Medieval Cities

What is it about Siena that makes an artsy traveler swoon? Mention Siena to anyone who has traveled there and immediately they’ll clasp their hands to their hearts and look heavenward while intoning their undying love for this gem of a medieval city.

Every time I visit Siena (and I’ve been five times), I am inundated with a profound sense of living history. Of course, I could say that about many other places in Europe, but there’s something about Siena that makes it extra special.

Why is Siena so Special?

One reason why Siena is so special is that the modern world intrudes so discreetly that it’s easy to believe, especially at night, that you’ve been transported seven hundred years into the past. The stone and brick walls of ancient buildings soar into the deep blue sky either side of stone-paved streets. Everywhere you look are bricked archways, scarred and ancient wooden doors, iron rings for tethering horses, and shadowed alleyways. Everywhere the ancient past lives and breathes.

Walking Into the Campo

When I walk into the Campo—surely, the most beautiful public space in the world—I feel my throat constrict with emotion. I am in Siena! I am walking where my Sofia (from The Towers of Tuscany) walked, where my Lena grew rich and regretful (The Merchant of Siena – to be published) and where hundreds of years of Sienese people have lived and died, fought, prayed, loved, and hated.

On these bricks in the Campo, laid down even before the Black Death, people in heavy gowns walked and talked. They argued and haggled in business, they gazed at each other with love, they snubbed an enemy and clasped hands with a friend. This space—this Campo—has teemed with life for centuries, its shape and beauty unchanged through wars and famines and plagues and the chain stores of the 21st century.

Views Over the Campo

The view across the Campo to the Torre Mangia and Palazzo Pubblico from the cafés lining the high side of the Campo has not changed appreciably since the buildings were new.

Palazzos and cafes lining the upper end of the campo in Siena

Lorenzetti strode across these bricks on his way to paint the Allegory of Good and Bad Government in the Palazzo Pubblico. From one of the windows in a palazzo above where I sit sipping my Aperol Spritz, my Lena watched her lover Paolo enter the Campo with an army of mercenaries. My Sofia first entered the Campo with Francesco from the street to the left of the Torre Mangia and was instantly captivated.

Campo of Siena View

Siena & Visitors

Siena is still a pulsing living city with more locals than tourists, although there are certainly plenty of tourists. But the crowds are manageable and easy to sidestep. One minute, I’m on a street streaming with people, occasionally standing aside to let a car go past. The next minute, I turn into a small side street and am alone with the ghosts and my imagination.

Quiet side street in Siena

At night, Siena belongs to the locals, particularly young people. The Campo is filled with groups of teens–boys in one tight knot, girls in another. In the side streets, students spill out from the bars, glasses of wine in hand and voices at full volume. In the wee hours, a cadre of loud young men pass under our window, singing with drunken abandon. It’s more endearing than annoying.

Reliving my Novels in Siena

Everywhere I walk in Siena, I think about scenes in the two novels I’ve set there. Is this the street Lena ran down before being captured by mercenaries in The Merchant of Siena? In this piazza, did Sofia in The Towers of Tuscany watch a girl be whipped for dressing like a boy? I’ve spent so many months, years even, seeing these streets in my mind as I write that to walk in them now feels like I’m coming home.

Siena Campo by Moonlight

Arriving in Siena

I booked a room at the I Merli di Ada which is inside the walls of Siena. Usually, we avoid places inside medieval towns because we know from experience that driving through narrow medieval streets mobbed with people is a recipe for disaster. But we wanted to be close to the action in Siena and so decided to take the risk.

The hotel sent instructions about parking. We were to enter Siena from the Porta Romana, drive to a little piazza near the hotel, drop off our luggage, then hand our keys to a valet parking attendant. The cost of valet parking is an exorbitant 30 euros per day, but I don’t care. The benefits of staying within Siena’s walls and having someone else park the car far outweigh the cost.

Driving Into Siena

With trepidation, we follow the GPS directions to drive through the Porta Romana past a phalanx of official-looking people in uniform who don’t stop us. I know we’re being electronically monitored. If we stay too long in Siena, we’ll be subject to a hefty fine. Tourists are allowed a small amount of time to drive to their accommodation and drop off their bags. They then must skedaddle, fast (or in our case, give the keys to a valet who does the skedaddling for us).

The GPS directs us along a street with pedestrians who stand aside to let us pass. Gregg drives very, very slowly. We turn left as directed up a side street and then sharp left again. The hotel’s directions tell us there will be a little piazza to our right where we can stop to unload our luggage. Lo and behold, there it is! We pull in and breathe a sigh of relief. I hop out and walk a few paces down the street to find our hotel.

Entrance to I Merli de Ada Hotel in Siena
Entrance to I Merli de Ada on a side street in Siena

Phew! That was one of the easier entries into a medieval town we’ve experienced. With great gratitude, Gregg hands the keys to the valet who appears moments later to smilingly move our car to God knows where and I don’t care! We’re informed that we’ll see the car again on Sunday. Spoiler alert – we do.

I Merli di Ada

The I Merli di Ada hotel is lovely. The entrance way is brick-arched and reeking with history. The tiny elevator that climbs very slowly from the lobby to the third floor is the only modern intrusion. We put our luggage into the elevator and climb the winding marble staircase. How many feet have climbed here? I don’t know how old the current building is, but I can say with certainty that its foundations are probably medieval, if not older.

Entrance lobby in the I Merli di Ada in Siena
Lobby of the I Merli di Ada in Siena

Our room on the third floor is high-ceilinged, the white-painted beams reminding us of former times. I can’t help wondering how many people have lived and breathed in this space over the centuries. The window looks out over the street and the building opposite—the same red brick as our building with arched windows, most shuttered.

First Walks into Siena

We walk out into Siena with an agenda—find a laundromat, eat a late lunch, buy Gregg some art materials, and, most importantly, drink in our first encounter in six years with my favorite city in Europe.

Thanks to Google, I find a laundromat just down the street, so we head there first. The directions are thoughtfully posted in both Italian and English. Within minutes, we’ve loaded our laundry into one of the machines, inserted eight euros, and pressed the start button. We leave to find lunch.

Lunch in the Campo

Minutes later, we are entering the Campo and my knees go weak. I want to run right out into the middle and twirl. I resist (although later I do a spot of twirling under the cover of darkness–see later in this post). We choose one of the ubertouristy cafés on the edge of the Campo and settle in.

Carol Cram in the Campo in Siena, Italy

Even Rick Steves, who usually eschews places in ‘high rent’ areas like the Campo, has written in his Siena guidebook that camping at one of the cafés on the Campo is a must-do. Hang the cost.

As it is, the cost is perfectly reasonable, the service efficient and good-humored, and the food really delicious. We split an order of bruschetta along with a large salad replete with anchovies, hard-boiled eggs, very fresh greens, and tomatoes.

Lunch of green salad with achnovies and bruschetta in Siena

The sun beats down pleasantly warm as we gaze out at the Palazzo Pubblico and the Campo. I am truly in heaven.

Errands in Siena

After our late lunch, we hightail it back to the laundromat, put the clothes in the dryer (another five euros), then go in search of art materials. We find them at a little shop on the other side of the Campo. Gregg buys a pad of paper and some paints and looks forward to many happy hours of art creating to come.

We pick up a few groceries so we don’t have to buy the hotel breakfast in the morning, then huff up the three flights of stairs to our room for a bit of quiet time before dinner.

Dinner in Siena

In the evening, we venture out to enjoy an excellent dinner at a well-reviewed osteria not far from the hotel. The service is excellent and the ambiance cozy and warm in a brick-vaulted room that’s probably been in use for centuries.

So far as I can hear, we’re the only English speakers. Most of the other diners are Europeans. We start with fried cheese accompanied by fresh pear sauce recommended by the server and then Gregg has a tasty pasta with bacon and I have thinly sliced Florentine steak. We share a green salad. The food is fresh, simply prepared, and absolutely delicious. With wine, the bill is about 60 euros—perhaps not a bargain, but certainly not over-priced considering the quality of the food, the service, and the ambiance.

Evening Stroll in Siena

After dinner, we stroll to the Campo where I do indeed twirl across the 14th-century pavement and snap endless shots of the floodlit Palazzo Pubblico in front of a deep azure sky. We end the evening with a walk along narrow medieval streets and a final stop at a gelateria for a small cup with two flavors—very dark chocolate with amaretto for me; stracciatella and fragola (strawberry) for Gregg.

Twirling in the Campo of Siena

A Perfect Full Day in Siena

The next day, I’m up early, excited to begin my only full day in Siena. I start with a caffè Americano at a lovely little café just down the street from our hotel. The place is deserted and I spend a productive hour working on The Merchant of Siena. Set in the second half of the 14th century—a time of great strife and hardship for Siena—the novel tells the story of a woman who is determined to control her own destiny in a world where all the odds are stacked against her.

April Weather

The weather has turned cloudy and chilly. By the time I emerge from the café, the rain has started in earnest, and I wish I’d brought some warmer clothes. I mistakenly thought that Italy in April would be warm. It can be, for sure, but it also can be chilly and wet. There’s a reason why the Tuscan countryside is so green.

I return to the hotel and together, Gregg and I set out to tour the Palazzo Pubblico. I’m anxious to see an exhibition of costumes from the Palio, and of course to revisit my favorite Lorenzetti frescoes.

Palazzo Pubblico

The Palazzo Pubblico is most certainly the most photographed building in all of Siena. I’ve taken dozens of photos myself in as many lights as possible—from brilliant sunshine to moonlit evening. The Palazzo Pubblico with its accompanying tower (the Torre Mangia) was built between 1297 and 1310 and is considered the world’s most perfect example of civic Gothic architecture. The Signoria and the Podestà resided in the Palazzo Publicco and still today, the building is a symbol of political power.

Alas, I discover while buying our tickets that the Lorenzetti frescoes are being renovated. Oh well. I’ve seen them a few times already, and there is still plenty to see between the public rooms and the current exhibition of Palio costumes.

Exhibition of Palio Costumes

We first head downstairs for the costume exhibition that features examples of the medieval-inspired costumes worn by participants in the Palio. I’m a sucker for a good costume exhibit and this one certainly doesn’t disappoint. The only thing lacking are women’s costumes since the focus is on how the riders in the Palio dressed and all of them are for men (or at least I presume so).

Black and white palio costume in Siena
Siena palio costume in red
Siena palio custome in the palazzo pubblico in siena

Public Rooms in the Palazzo Pubblico

Upstairs in the main part of the Palazzo Pubblico are the stunning reception rooms. With the room containing the Lorenzetti frescoes of Good and Bad Government off limits, the main highlight is the Sala del Mappamondo (the World Map Room), which was once the headquarters of the Council of the Republic.

Martini Fresco

I stand in the middle of the large room and stare at the Maesta by Simone Martini. In The Towers of Tuscany, Sofia stands exactly where I stand to look at the Maesta. Although obviously restored, the 2024 version probably doesn’t hold a candle to the brilliantly colored original that Sofia would have seen.

Fresco of the Maesta by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena
Fresco of the Maesta by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena

I spin around to see Martini’s other famous masterwork–the fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano. Mounted on his charger, the captain of the Sienese army rides across the territory he has just conquered (Montemassi, in 1328). Recently, art historians have disputed the attribution of this work to Martini, claiming that it was either a slightly later work or even a 16th-century fake. Part of what sparked the debate was the 1980 discovery of a slightly older scarred fresco lower on the wall. This earlier painting depicts two figures standing in front of a wooden-fenced castle. Some claim this is the fresco Martini painted, while those who support the authenticity of the Guidoriccio attribute this older fresco to Duccio, Pietro Lorenzetti, or Memmo di Filippuccio.

Fresco in palazzo pubblico
Fresco attributed to Lorenzetti in Siena’s Palazzo Pubblico

Who knows! It’s awesome whoever painted it.

Siena Cathedral

The sun bursts forth after our visit to the Palazzo Pubblico. Gregg heads back to the hotel and I set off to tour Siena Cathedral and the adjoining museums. Here’s where you’ll find the crowds in Siena! The cathedral is mobbed with tour groups, but it’s definitely worth a look-see.

Siena Cathedral

Don’t miss the very cool 15th century paintings in the Piccolomini library. You have to line up to get in, but entrance is included in your ticket to the cathedral.

Piccolomini library in Siena cathedral - paintings
Interior of the Piccolomini Library in Siena Cathedral

If you visit Siena Cathedral, buy a ticket that includes all of the various components, even if you don’t visit them all. I made the mistake of only buying a ticket for Siena Cathedral and then discovering later that I couldn’t access the Museo Opera where the fabulous Maesta by Duccio is housed (it has a cameo appearance in The Towers of Tuscany). By the time I figured out that I didn’t have the right ticket, I couldn’t summon the energy to trudge all the way back to the side of the cathedral to line up to buy the correct ticket. Fortunately, I’ve seen the Duccio twice before!

I return “home” for an hour’s rest before setting off for the other side of Siena where we find a great place for dinner prior to attending a concert.

Italian Opera in Siena

When we’d arrived at I Merli di Ada, I’d picked up a brochure about opera concerts held three times a week in Siena. The price is reasonable and tickets are available. We decide to check it out. The Italian Opera in Siena concert turns out to be very entertaining. A soprano accompanied by a pianist sings many opera favorites by Puccini, Verdi, and Bizet.

Afterwards, we float out on an operatic high and stroll the thirty minutes back to our hotel through the moonlit streets. Siena at night goes beyond magical to mesmerizing. Most of the time, we are alone, the only sounds our footsteps on the cobblestones and the muted clanking of iron rings in the wind.

Out in the Campo for the last time, I shoot a 360-degree video of one of my favorite places in the world!

Siena will forever hold a special place in my artsy traveler heart!

Where to Stay in Siena

Here are more options in addition to the highly recommended I Merli di Ada:

 

Tour Options In and Around Siena

On one trip to Siena several years ago, I joined a small group tour of wineries in Montalcino and Montepulciano that also included an amazing lunch. If you’re in Siena for a few days and want to spend one of them touring the wine regions, then check out some of the many tours available. You could also choose a cooking class (I always enjoy a good cooking class!), or guided tours of some of Siena’s sites. As I’ve mentioned many times on Artsy Traveler, I’m a huge fan of Get Your Guide tours. Without exception, every tour I’ve taken has been excellent value. Full disclosure – if you click on any of the tours below and purchase a tour (any tour) from Get Your Guide, I receive a small commission. Thank you.

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Conclusion

Have you visited Siena? Share your tips for an awesome experience with other artsy travelers in the comments below. And here are more posts about Italy:

Carol Cram in Sirmione on Lake Garda in northern Italy

Sirmione on Lake Garda: Experience the Magic of Staying Overnight

The tiny resort town of Sirmione on Lake Garda in northern Italy is truly magical. Stay overnight and you’ll have the picturesque, stone-arched streets and cypress-dotted parks to yourself.

I spent 21 hours there and loved every minute of it.

In this post, I share what I did during those 21 hours, including taking a boat trip, visiting a interesting Roman archeological site, and taking peaceful walks around a peninsula that is mobbed during the day but extremely quiet and calm in the evenings and early mornngs.

A blog cover image featuring a sunset over Lake Garda and the Sirmione castle, with the word “Sirmione” in bold text and the website "ARTSYTRAVELER.COM" at the bottom.

Sirmione Highlights at a Glance

Where is Sirmione?

Located at the south end of Lake Garda, cute-as-a-button Sirmione occupies the very tippy tip of a long peninsula jutting into the lake. Lake Garda is new to me, and it certainly lives up to its reputation as one of Italy’s premier lakes. It is also the biggest lake in a country that has a lot of lakes.

Consider a trip to Sirmione if you’re en route to Venice, Verona, Milan, and other towns in northern Italy.

Arriving in Sirmione

Gregg and I drive up the peninsula to reach Sirmione (#1) at the southern end of Lake Garda. We sensibly snag a parking place outside the old town and alongside the lake, which at three o’clock in the afternoon is an unearthly shade of turquoise blue. Even in the tropics, I’ve never seen a color like it. A strong wind is sweeping the lake into a riot of whitecaps that splash sparkling billows of water against the shore.

We walk to the harbor and cross the bridge under the shadow of Scaligero Castle, which is Sirmione’s iconic medieval castle (#2) that guards the entrance to the old town. With its square towers with crenelated tops, the castle resembles exactly the kind of castle a child would draw.

An ancient stone castle in Sirmione, Italy, featuring crenelated towers, arched gates, and a moat with turquoise water, under a partly cloudy sky.
Scaligero Castle guards the entrance to the historic town of Sirmione

Visitors pack the streets. If it’s this crowded in April, I’d hate to see what it looks like in the summer. I have read that summer crowds can make Sirmione almost impossible to visit. Fortunately, while large, the crowds are not ridiculous. We easily navigate our way past souvenir shops and gelato places (note to self – return after dinner) to find the Hotel Flaminia.

Orientation to Sirmione

The map below shows the places mentioned in this post. Click a number for more information.

Hotel Flaminia

The three-storey Hotel Flaminia has old-world elegance and, although gorgeously situated lakeside, is not unreasonably priced at around 200 euros for the night. A highlight is the terrace that juts into the lake. In summer, you could jump right in for a swim. Although the sun is warm in April, no one is swimming so I presume the water is not yet toasty enough.

A woman with sunglasses and a floral dress sitting on a deck chair under a large umbrella, smiling with Lake Garda and lush greenery in the background.
Relaxing with a drink on the terrace at the Hotel Flaminia on the shores of Lake Garda

After checking into the Hotel Flaminia, we returned to our car and moved it to a gated parking lot. From there, we and our luggage rode a golf cart back into the town. Very efficient!

A serene view of Lake Garda with clear turquoise water, reeds in the foreground, and mountains beneath a bright blue sky with scattered
View of Lake Garda from our parking place

Here’s a view of the Hotel Flaminia from Lake Garda that I took the next day while on our Lake Garda boat tour.

A white villa with balconies and terraces, viewed from the water, surrounded by other buildings and outdoor seating with umbrellas.
Hotel Flaminia seen from the boat tour on Lake Garda

Wandering Around Sirmione

After getting settled in our lovely, high-ceilinged room, we eat a sandwich at a cafe with very friendly staff to stave off hunger (having not had much lunch).

Gregg then returns to the room to recover from the six-hour drive from the French Alps and I do my favorite thing when first arriving in a new place—wandering. I set off through the maze of narrow streets to see what is at the end of the peninsula.

My walk takes me past a number of interesting shops. The usual tourist dreck packs a few of them, but several sell really nice-looking items.

I stop to covet a lemon-patterned salad bowl with matching salad tongs. If they can ship it to Canada, I just might buy it. Unfortunately, they inform me sadly that they don’t offer shipping to Canada, so I make do buying a ceramic lemon to put on my desk to remind me of Sirmione.

Maria Callas

The shops soon give way to ever larger villas, including the Termi di Catulla a complext of thermal baths, where I find a plaque honoring Maria Callas, the great opera singer.

I’d recently finished reading Diva by British author Daisy Goodwin about Callas’s life and had interviewed Daisy for The Art In Fiction Podcast a few weeks later, so I knew that Callas had once lived in Sirmione. Inside the hotel is a small display of some of her costumes and jewelry.

A display of an ornate costume worn by Maria Callas, featuring a turquoise gown with intricate embroidery and a yellow cape, encased in glass with a pearl necklace and an open book at the base.
Costume worn by Maria Callas

After admiring the Callas display, I carry on past Maria Callas Park to walk to the Grotto Cattalus. Along the way, I enjoy stunning views of stately cypresses, snow-dusted mountains, and wind-whipped waves. I am smitten.

Dinner in Sirmione

Dinner that evening is a charming and tasty affair. The wind is sending cutlery and napkins on the outdoor tables flying, so we opt to sit inside. Also, the evening air in April is not warm even though daytime temperatures are comfortable.

I order a shrimp tagliatelle that comes with a sauce I’d be happy to marry. Service is efficient and unsmiling. I get the impression that the staff are weary after a long day of serving tourists. Can’t say I blamed them!

I snap this photo of the setting sun as seen from the piazza just outside the restaurant.

A picturesque sunset over Lake Garda, with a sky filled with golden and orange clouds, calm waters reflecting the colors, and silhouetted mountains in the background.
Sunset Over Lake Garda

Evening Walk in Sirmione

After dinner, we scurry back to our hotel to replace my optimistic capris and sandals with long pants, socks, shoes, and a jacket, then venture out for an evening amble and to enjoy the glorious sunset over Lake Garda. Most of the tourists have disappeared, and we have the streets to ourselves.

We walk as far as the Termi di Catullo to admire the Maria Callas plaque, then return to our warm hotel room for the night.

A poster with the text “CALLAS SEMPRE CALLAS” and an image of Maria Callas's face, promoting an exhibition of her costumes and jewelry at Aquaria Hall in Sirmione, Italy.
Maria Callas is one of Sirmione’s most famous former residents

Maria Callas is not the only famous person to maintain a villa in Sirmione. Former residents include writers Ezra Pound, James Joyce, Aldous Huxley, Tennyson and Goethe. Churchill also hung out for a while in Sirmione.

A Morning in Sirmione

The next morning, we decide to enjoy Sirmione right until the noon checkout when the golf cart is scheduled to arrive at the hotel to take us back to our parking place.

The day dawns clear and warm—the complete opposite to the cloudy and chilly weather predicted on my phone.

After breakfast, we saunter out into the still empty streets and stroll all the way up the peninsula en route to visit the Grottoes of Catullus.

Villa of Maria Callus

On our way, we pass the beautiful yellow villa (#3) that Maria Callas lived in with her husband. What a place! Imagine being her neighbor back in the day and hearing her voice soaring out over the pines as she practiced her arias for a performance at La Scala in Milan, a few hours away. Talk about magical!

A yellow multi-story villa with arched windows and a prominent tower, surrounded by greenery and a gated entrance, under a clear blue sky.
Villa in which Maria Callas lived

Grottoes of Catallus

The grottoes turn out to be the remains of  Roman villa built between the end of the 1st century BCE and the beginning of the 1st century CE.

Called grotte di catullo in Italian, the ruins were rediscovered in the 15th century and at first resembled caves, hence the name “grottoes.” Over the centuries, archaeologists slowly unearthed a remarkable complex that must have been a Roman billionaire’s dream palace.

The grottoes were named after the poet Catullus because his poems had just been rediscovered around the time the grottoes/villa was found. In his 31st poem, Catullus described love of his beloved house in Sirmione. He wrote:

Sirmio, jewel of islands, jewel of peninsulas, with what joy, what pleasure I gaze at you.

Despite his raving about the place, there is no evidence linking Catallus to this particular villa, mostly because he died before it was built.

A bronze bust of the Roman poet Gaius Valerius Catullus atop a stone pedestal engraved with his name and dates (87 BC – 54 BC), set against a dramatic sunset by Lake Garda with a tree silhouette and benches in the background.
Statue of the Roman poet Catullus

Anyway, the name stuck, and wow—the site is definitely worth a visit. The villa is situated on a promontory at the very top of the peninsula with stunning views of the lake and mountains.

On a warm and breezy April day with few other tourists around, enjoying the lake views during a leisurely ramble among olive groves atop the ruins are an artsy traveler’s dream come true.

A woman with sunglasses and a gray jacket stands smiling at a viewpoint, leaning on a metal railing. Behind her, Lake Garda stretches out under a clear sky, with Roman ruins visible nearby.
Overlooking the Roman ruins and the view across Lake Garda

Video of the Panorama

Here’s a video that captures the sublime view above the Roman ruins.

We happily snap many photos, and then descend to the museum. Unfortunately, several school groups have just arrived, and despite the many attempts of shushing by the teachers, fill the small space with their chatter.

How wonderful it must be to grow up in a country where school outings take you to a Roman villa! One little girl looks up at us as we pass and cheerfully wishes us buon giorno.

We do a quick walk through the museum. It is small but filled with some good-looking frescoes and various finds from the archaeological dig.

Don’t Miss the Shuttle!

After our visit, we catch the little shuttle that ferries visitors from the site back to the Termi di Catullo for a mere €1.20 each.

A small red and white-striped tourist train with open carriages sits on a road surrounded by olive trees. The driver is visible at the front, and a few people walk nearby under a bright blue sky.
Shuttle gave weary legs a break in Sirmione

Our next stop—a lake cruise!

Cruise on Lake Garda

I’m a big fan of the GetYourGuide website that in my experience always delivers excellent tours. I’ve booked through them several times and have yet to be disappointed. Our 25-minute boat tour around Sirmione is no exception. Check times below and book early.

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We walk out to the tiny harbor at the foot of the castle and easily find the blue umbrella at the Lake Garda Tours kiosk. At the time of our visit, two tours are available—at 11 am and 5 pm. I booked the earlier tour the night before.

We quickly check in and promptly at 11 am, about 15 of us are taken to a spacious open boat with comfortable seating that ensures spectacular views of the lake and Sirmione.

Enjoying the Cruise

The tour around the peninsula really is delightful. We motor up the west side of the peninsula past the Villa Flaminia and many other gorgeous villas. The guide points out Maria Callas’s distinctive yellow villa that we saw earlier that morning.

Here’s a video taken from the boat.

We round the top of the peninsula and enjoy the view of the impressive ruins at the Grottoes of Catallus (#4) that we just toured.

Ruins of an ancient Roman villa, surrounded by lush greenery, rise above Lake Garda. The crumbling stone walls stand tall under a bright blue sky, with clear water in the foreground.
Grottoes of Catallus seen from the Lake Garda boat cruise

On our way down the east side of the peninsula, the skipper stops the boat and points out the bubbles in the water. Apparently, they are the result of hot springs far below, gurgling away at 70 degrees centigrade which is pretty darned hot.

One of the reasons that Sirmione has been so popular over the millennia is the thermal hot springs. Imagine all those retired Roman generals coming here for spa days to soothe their battle-wearied bones.

At the end of the tour, we all bend very low to cruise beneath a small bridge connecting the old town and castle area to the rest of the peninsula. The whole experience is thoroughly enjoyable on a breezy and bright April day.

I highly recommend a boat trip as one of the top things to do in Sirmione!

A medieval castle with stone walls and tall towers sits on the edge of Lake Garda in Sirmione, Italy. The calm blue water reflects the castle, while colorful buildings line the background under a clear sky.
Approaching the castle and the end of the lake cruise

Farewell to Sirmione

After the cruise, we duck around the crowds to return to the Hotel Flaminia where, precisely at noon as booked, the golf cart rounds the corner into the Piazza Flaminia. Moments later, we and our luggage are loaded aboard and off we go to where we parked the car.

Our visit to Sirmione has been short but definitely worthwhile. I’d like to return in the summer to explore Lake Garda and also to swim in the lake, which is allegedly fantastic, although the crowds are even denser. 

However, even in summer, if you stay overnight you’ll likely have the streets to yourself in the evening and early morning, which more than makes up for having to dodge fellow tourists during the busy midday hours.

Staying in Sirmione

Sirmione has plenty of hotels to choose from. You can sleep in the old town like we did (recommended), choose a place along the lake shore that stretches either side of the peninsula, or select one of the many hotels located on the long road that bisects the peninsula to end at the bridge leading to the town.

The Hotel Flaminia where we stayed is elegant, perfectly located, and not too expensive.

Most of hotels in the old town are pretty pricey, with rates at some of the five-star villas stratospheric. Check Trip Advisor and Booking.com for options.

Parking Considerations

If you choose a hotel outside the town walls, you’ll either need to walk a long way or drive to the parking lots on the peninsula that I should imagine in summer fill up very fast. Even in April, we had to park quite a long way from the entrance to the town.

I’m so glad we chose a place in the old town. The Hotel Flaminia offered parking for an extra 16 euros in a lot outside the walls and as mentioned, threw in transport via golf cart from the car park to the hotel.

Before you book, check the parking situation. You definitely don’t want to book a hotel that requires you to drive into the old town. I felt sorry for the people inching their cars through the extremely narrow streets en route to their hotels.

Other Tours Around Sirmione

I’m a big fan of GetYourGuide tours. I’ve consistently found them to be good value for money. Here are links to more Get Your Guide tours from Sirmione:

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You can also purchase tickets and tours through Tiqets.com, another company I use frequently.

Conclusion

Have you visited Sirmione? Where did you stay? What did you do? Share any information that may interest other artsy travelers in the comments below.

Here are some more posts about travels in Italy:

Carol Cram at Pratto del Valle in Prato

A Week in Fascinating Little Padua Reveals Hidden Treasures

Thinking of visiting Padua. Called Padova in Itatlian, this historic city in northern Italy is just a quick train ride from Venice.

With plenty of things to do and see, Padua will keep the Artsy Traveler well entertained for several days.

In this post, I share how I spent my week in Padua that included day trips to Venice and Vicenza.

 A travel graphic featuring the scenic Prato della Valle and the courtyard of Palazzo Bo, highlighting hidden treasures in Padua. Ideal for trip planning inspiration.

Padua Highlights at a Glance

Overview

So why was I in Padua for a week, instead of Venice, its more famous neighbor? First, I’ve visited and stayed in Venice several times and felt it was time to explore more of the Veneto. Second, my husband Gregg Simpson (who is an artist) had an exhibition in Padua.

I’d heard Padua was worth visiting in its own right and so looked forward to exploring this new-to-us town. I visited in November–a chilly time in northern Italy (take a good, warm coat!).

On the upside, late November is also the time of the Chocolate Festival where dozens of booths groaning with all kinds of chocolate confections lined the piazzas in the center of Padua. Needless to say, we sampled our fair share.

A plate of assorted chocolates and truffles, showcasing a delicious treat to enjoy while exploring Padua. Perfect for foodies visiting the city.

Give Padua At Least Two Days

In your travel planning, don’t make Padua and Venice an either/or option. Instead, build time in your itinerary to visit both.

You can easily see Padua’s main attractions and enjoy the laid-back ambiance in a relaxed three-night stay, or keep yourself busy for a week like I did.

If you only have time to make a short stop in the city of Padua, then squeeze in a flying visit to Padua’s main Artsy Traveler highlight–the Giotto frescsoes in the Scrovegni Chapel. Just make sure you’ve booked well in advance of your visit (more on that in a minute).

But a day in Padua is not enough. I suggest you slow down, book a place in Padua’s historic city center, and stay awhile. There are plenty of things to do in Padua, which yields up its treasures with a measured delight.

Map of Padua

The map below includes all of the sites mentioned in this post in addition to the location of the wonderful apartment I rented, about a 15-minute walk from the center of town.

  1. Scrovegni Chapel
  2. Musei Civici Eremitani
  3. Anatomical Theatre of Padua in the Palazzo Po
  4. University of Padua Botanical Garden
  5. Prato dell Valle
  6. Padua Cathedral
  7. Recommended Apartment on the Via dell Palme
  8. Piazza dei Signori
  9. Piazza della Erbe
  10. Palazzo della Ragione

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

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Scrovegni Chapel

I’ll start with the heaviest hitter of them all, sightseeing-wise–the Giotto frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel known in Italian as the Cappella degli Scrovegni. On any Padua itinerary, the Scrovegni Chapel deserves the top spot.

I visited on Day 7 of my stay in Padua, which made for a stunning finale to our week.

When I left the next day to fly home from Milan, visions of Giotto’s exquisitely rendered figures still danced in my head.

Buy Tickets for the Scrovegni Chapel in Advance

As soon as you know the date you plan to be in Padua, buy your tickets for the Scrovegni Chapel, the earlier the better.

Don’t wait until the last minute! The chapel was sold out weeks in advance of my November visit. Same-day tickets are not available.

Here’s the link to purchase tickets from the official site. If tickets are sold out on the official site you may be able to get a ticket by signing up for a tour through GetYourGuide. Here’s an option:

Powered by GetYourGuide

Once you’ve booked your ticket, just show up at your appointed time and prepare to be blown away.

Starting Your Scrovegni Chapel Visit

Your visit starts with a walk through beautifully landscaped gardens from the visitor center to the chapel. Since everyone who visits the chapel must book in advance, you pretty much have the place to yourself apart from the thirty or so people who will be in your viewing group.

 The exterior of the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua, surrounded by lush greenery and clear blue skies. An iconic landmark and a treasure trove of Renaissance art.
Approaching the Scrovengi Chapel

You arrive outside the hermetically sealed doors that separate you from a specially built anteroom adjacent to the chapel.

Make sure you arrive a good ten minutes early. The visits are timed very precisely with no provisions made for latecomers.

At your appointed time–not a second too early or too late–the automatic doors swish open. You glimpse the party who visited the chapel before you leaving from another door as you file into the anteroom and take a seat.

Here you will watch a fascinating video (English subtitles) about Giotto’s world-famous frescoes.

I’m partial to 14th Century Italian art and as such, I’m a bit of a Giotto fan girl. I thoroughly enjoyed the description of the fresco cycle. The work is considered one of Giotto’s greatest masterpieces, and is a wonderful example of the artistic revolution that Giotto brought to Western art. 

Giotto completed the frescoes in just two years, between 1303 and 1305. The frescoes cover the entire interior of the Chapel and narrate the History of Salvation.

Entering the Chapel

After the film, you are invited to stand. Seconds later, another automatic door swishes open and finally, you file into the chapel itself. Gasps of wonder fill the air as each individual quietly takes in the awe-inspiring frescoes.

Guides are prohibited so the only sounds are whispers and the muted blips of cell phones and cameras (no flashes allowed, of course) making futile attempts to capture the majesty of the space.

It’s impossible. Pictures don’t do it justice, but here are a few of mine, to give you an idea of what you’ll see.

Giotto's depiction of the arrest of Christ, featuring dramatic expressions and intricate details in the Scrovegni Chapel. A highlight of Padua's artistic heritage.
This panel shows the first kiss depicted in Western art — Judas kissing Jesus before betraying him
A fresco by Giotto in the Scrovegni Chapel, depicting the lamentation of Christ with vivid expressions and rich colors. A must-see for art lovers in Padua.
Mary at the tomb of Jesus – the expressions on the faces are so human
A detailed fresco by Giotto in Padua, depicting biblical scenes with vivid colors and lifelike expressions. A masterpiece to admire while exploring Padua’s cultural treasures.
This panel shows the Scrovegni Chapel

Why Giotto?

The big deal about Giotto is the naturalism of his figures–a major departure from the stiff, 2D figures common at the time. Giotto’s figures look like real people wearing clothes that drape naturally over real bodies.

You get precisely 15 minutes to enjoy the chapel before the automatic doors again swish open and you file out.

On your way, you see the next group preparing to enter, and envy them their first glimpse of the chapel interior. All you have now are your pictures and your memories.

Musei Civici Eremitani

After visiting the Chapel, you can visit the Musei Civici Eremitani, which contains the Archaeological Museum of Padua and the Museum of Medieval and Modern Art. Both are worth checking out.

Archaeological Museum of Padua

Padua is one of the oldest cities in Italy, which becomes abundantly clear when you visit the Archaeological Museum.

Here, you’ll find a fascinating collection from the pre-Roman era (8th-3rd century BC), decorated vases from the third Atestine period (6th-5th century BC), Paleo-Venetian steles, votive objects, Etruscan, Italic and Paleo-Venetian bronzes, Egyptian art, and an extensive Roman section.

If you like ancient artifacts, this museum is definitely worth a visit.

Museum of Medieval and Modern Art

The museum contains around 3000 paintings from the 14th to the 19th centuries, including works by such luminaries as Giorgione, Tiziano Vecellio, Giotto, Tintoretto, Veronese, Canova, Tiepolo, and Bellini, among many others.

Anatomical Theater in the Palazzo Bo 

My cousin, who is a physician, advised me to visit the anatomical theater at the University of Padua, and I’m very glad I did.

It’s accessible only via an entertaining guided tour given in English by a student. In addition to visiting the famous anatomical theater, you’ll view some of the ornately decorated public rooms in the Palazzo Bo, which is part of one of Europe’s oldest universities.

You’ll also learn that Galileo Galilei was a professor at the University of Padua from 1592 to 1610.

Tour of the Palazzo Po

The grand courtyard of Palazzo Bo in Padua, featuring elegant arches and classical architecture. A significant historical site in the heart of Padua.
Attractive colonnades at the Palazzo Bo

I very much enjoyed the tour of the Palazzo Bo that included these striking murals of some of the university’s most illustrious students over the centuries.

The historic Palazzo Bo in Padua, a hub of academic excellence and home to the University of Padua. A recommended stop for learning about the city’s intellectual heritage.

Anatomical Theater at Padua University

Inaugurated in 1595, the anatomical theater at the University of Padua is the world’s first permanent anatomical theater. According to Fabio Zampieri, an associate professor at the university: “To build a permanent theater for anatomy was in some sense revolutionary because it meant to place anatomy as the foundation of medical studies.”

At the time, the Church wasn’t keen on dissecting bodies, so having a purpose-built anatomical theater was kind of a big deal in the evolution of medical knowledge.

The theater is surprisingly tiny and cramped. Back in the day, up to 250 students and professors crowded into the tiered space to look down at the dissection of a human cadaver far below.

Most of the cadavers had belonged either to executed criminals or deceased hospital patients.

With its six elliptical rings circling skyward, the theater seems to mimic the shape of an eye or telescope. Under the main entrance to the theater, a 16th-century Latin inscription reads, “This is a place where the dead are pleased to help the living.”

Cheerful stuff.

A close-up view of the intricate wooden details of the Anatomical Theater of Padua, a marvel of craftsmanship. A must-visit for history and science enthusiasts.
View from the bottom of the anatomical theater

As part of the tour, I ducked under a low door to enter the bottom of the theater where the cadaver would be laid out for the professor to dissect.

It was exceedingly creepy to stand in the narrow space and look up at the six tiers where the spectators would stand. According to the guide, the railing encircling each tier was just high enough to prevent an observer from toppling forward when they fainted.

Apparently, people frequently fainted in the confined–and likely very pungent–space. I shuddered and was happy to move on to the rest of the tour.

 A detailed model of the historical Anatomical Theater of Padua, showcasing its circular design used for medical studies. A fascinating site for those interested in Padua's academic history.
Scale model of the anatomical theater showing the six tiers around which up to 250 spectators would gather and look down

First Woman to Earn a Degree

A highlight at the end of the tour was the statue of Elena Lucrezia Cornora, the first woman in the world to receive a university degree. The daughter of a wealthy Venetian family, she originally wanted to receive a degree in Theology. The bishop of Padua wouldn’t allow that, but did allow her to get a degree in Philosophy in 1678. Big of him.

Palazzo della Ragione

Built in the 13th century, the Palazzo della Ragione is located in the Piazza delle Erbe and resembles a huge upturned ship. Until the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the Palazzo functioned as the town hall and palace of justice.

On the second floor is the Great Hall, believed to be one of the largest medieval halls still existing. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the walls of the Great Hall are completely frescoed. It’s a pretty impressive place!

Pratto delle Valle

The Pratto delle Valle has to be one of the most beautiful public spaces in Europe. It’s an oval-shaped island encircled by a canal in the center of a grand piazza.

On a brilliantly sunny day in November, it was a delightful place to wander around. Here are two views of the Pratto dell Valle, mercifully uncrowded in mid-morning.

The iconic Prato della Valle in Padua, with its circular canal, white statues, and historic buildings in the background. A central attraction for visitors to Padua.
Pratto delle Valle in Padua
The iconic Prato della Valle in Padua, with its circular canal, white statues, and historic buildings in the background. A central attraction for visitors to Padua.

I visited twice–once when it was empty and the second time when it was packed with one of the largest outdoor markets I’ve seen in Europe.

You could buy just about anything you wanted–from clothing to gloves to food to flowers to Christmas decorations. I picked up gloves to ward off the November chill and I treated myself to yet another new purse.

Italy is such a great place to buy purses!

Botanical Gardens

Created in 1545, the botanical garden (Orto Botanico) in Padua is the world’s first botanical garden and is a surprising highlight, even in November.

The garden still preserves its original layout – a circular central plot, symbolizing the world, surrounded by a ring of water. Most of the plants were dormant, but a few trees were still decked out in their autumnal glory.

Vibrant autumn leaves in Padua, showcasing shades of red and gold against a clear blue sky. A picturesque sight for nature enthusiasts exploring Padua.

I particularly enjoyed the new exhibition center (inaugurated in February 2023) that is part of the gardens. A series of well laid out displays–many of them interactive (English and Italian)–showcase the history of the botanical garden, its plants, and the people who collected them.

The Botanical Museum in Padua, a bright orange building surrounded by lush greenery, perfect for history and plant lovers. A highlight of Padua’s botanical garden experience.
Exhibition space at the Botanical Gardens

Day Trips from Padua

Thanks to an excellent rail system, Padua is a great home base to make day trips throughout the Veneto region. During my week in Padua, I visited Vicenza and Venice.

If you have the time, you could also visit nearby Verona.

Vicenza Day Trip

Many years ago when I was student studying for a Master’s degree in Drama at the University of Toronto, I had a professor who waxed lyrical about the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza.

She described how she arrived at the building housing the 16th-century theater just before closing and was denied entry. Apparently, she burst into tears, so intent was she to see this masterpiece of Palladian and theatrical architecture. Fortunately, the guard took pity on her and let her in.

Ever since then, I’ve longed to visit Vicenza’a Teatro Olimpico. This pretty town is a short train ride from Padua, and so I set off on a blue sky day to check it out.

Visit to the Teatro Olimpico

Located in the Piazza Matteotti, a short taxi ride from the train station, the Teatro Olimpico is the world’s first indoor theater constructed with interiors made of wood, stucco and plaster.

The great architect Andrea Palladio built the theater between 1580 and 1585. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The design of the theater is inspired by ancient Roman theaters and features an elliptical terraced auditorium, framed by a colonnade, and a frieze topped by statues.

The audience seating area at the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza, featuring red-upholstered benches and a painted sky ceiling. A must-see near Padua for theater and architecture enthusiasts.
The elliptical auditorium where I sat facing the stage

The rectangular stage is bound by a massive proscenium with two orders of architecture and consisting of three arcades that are divided by half-columns. As you sit in the steeply tiered auditorium, you peer into the arcades to see shadowy streets curving into darkness.

The grand stage of the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza, showcasing Renaissance-style design and artistic depth. A recommended activity for visitors to Padua interested in architecture and the arts.

Sound and Light Show at the Teatro Olimpico

At regular intervals, visitors to the Teatro Olimpico are treated to a rousing sound and light show where a myriad of colored spotlights plays across the proscenium to the accompaniment of stirring music.

It’s pretty over-the-top and yet a fitting tribute to the breathtaking beauty of Palladio’s structure.

Here are some glimpses through the archways into a masterpiece of perspective.

A dramatic perspective of the stage set at the Teatro Olimpico, with vivid lighting and intricate sculptures. An unforgettable cultural experience near Padua.
A detailed stage set in the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza, featuring classical architectural elements. A must-see attraction near Padua for theater and history fans.

Even if theater history isn’t your thing, a visit to the Teatre Olimpico is a must.

After visiting the theater, I spent a few hours wandering around Vicenza, which I found to be a charming northern Italian town that’s worth an afternoon of your time.

Day Trip to Venice

Venice is only about 30 minutes by train from Padua and so it seemed foolish to take a day trip there. As mentioned, I’ve visited Venice several times, but Venice never disappoints.

The minute I stepped off the train and walked to the edge of the Grand Canal, Venice again worked its magic on me.

A serene canal in Venice with gondolas and colorful buildings, showcasing the city's tranquil side. An easy excursion from Padua for a romantic or relaxing outing.
Views such as this of quiet side canals never get old in beautiful Venice

I spent the day–a gloriously sunny one–walking and walking and walking.

I decided not to take a trip on the vaporetto, opting instead to stroll through the Carneggio district to Piazza San Marco, then crossing the Grand Canal on the Accademia Bridge and walking back through the labyrinthine and over peaceful side canals streets to the train station.

Author Carol Cram and artist Gregg Simpson standing in Saint Mark’s Square in Venice, surrounded by iconic Venetian landmarks. A perfect day trip from Padua to experience Venice's charm.
Carol and Gregg in St. Mark’s Square on a sunny day in November

Visit to Saint Mark’s Basilica in Venice

Even in November, Venice was crowded, but a lot less crowded than I’ve seen it at warmer times of the year. For the first time ever, the line-up to get into Saint Mark’s Basilica was short enough to be worth the wait, so finally I got to see inside.

Wow!

The interior of Saint Mark’s Basilica is one giant glitterfest with sparkling golden mosaics covering every available surface. You’ll get a sore neck looking up, but it’s worth it.

I took it all in with awestruck wonder before returning to the Piazzo San Marco to spend an hour or so sitting in the sun and watching the world go by.

The golden interior of Saint Mark’s Basilica in Venice, adorned with ornate mosaics and sculptures. A short trip from Padua, this is an iconic destination for art and history lovers.
Mosaics cover every available surface in Venice’s Saint Mark’s Basilica

An Exhibition, a Cathedral, and a Quiet Canal

During our week in Padua, I also attended the opening of Gregg’s exhibition at the Queen Art Gallery, had a quick look inside the impressive cathedral (the Basilica di Sant’Antonio), and enjoyed many walks alongside peaceful canals slumbering in the autumn sunshine.

While Padua has several worthy tourist sites, it’s not a particularly touristy town. The vast majority of people out on the streets are locals, and many are students from the university which gives the town a youthful, vibrant feel.

It’s an easy town to walk around with plenty to look at along the way.

A lively art opening near Padua, featuring artist Gregg Simpson, guests, and vibrant modern paintings in the background. A cultural highlight for art enthusiasts visiting the area.
Gregg Simpson at the opening of his exhibition in Padua
The Basilica of Saint Anthony in Padua, showcasing its majestic domes and intricate architecture under a clear blue sky. A top attraction for those discovering Padua's rich heritage.
The Cathedral in Padua

Home Away From Home in Padua

Gregg and I stayed in a two-bedroom apartment not far from the train station in Padua. While the neighborhood was, admittedly, a bit nondescript, it included plenty of food shops, fast-food joints, and restaurants, and was within walking distance of the train station and the center of Padua.

Here’s a shot of a typical canal side scene that I passed pass on my way from the apartment into Padua’s historic center.

A peaceful canal in Padua lined with colorful historic buildings and lush greenery, perfect for a scenic walk or boat ride. A must-see spot while exploring Padua.

I chose the apartment for its location near the edge of Padua because we were driving and did not want to try navigating the medieval streets of old Padua. The apartment came with a parking place, which turned out to be accessible via a car elevator.

Here’s a shot of us retrieving our car at the end of our eight-night stay.

A parking area near Padua with travel luggage and a vehicle by a gated space, representing travel readiness. A reminder for those exploring what to see and do around Padua.

I highly recommend this apartment if you’re looking for comfortable accommodations that won’t break your budget.

The map below shows many other options for hotels and apartments in Padua.



Booking.com

Tours and Tickets in Padua

Here are some options for tours and tickets in Padua from Tiqets.com

Conclusion

Have you visited Padua? What sites do you recommend? Let other Artsy Travelers know your thoughts in the comments below.

Top Ten Favorite Masterpieces at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence

The Uffizi Gallery in Florence is an Artsy Traveler must-see, particularly for artsy travelers who love Renaissance art.

On every trip to Florence, I take the time to marvel at the artworks at the Uffizi Gallery.

Few artsy traveler pursuits equal the joy of wandering blissfully through rooms full of many of western Europe’s most iconic masterpieces.

In this post, I highlight ten of my favorite pieces in the Uffizi Gallery.

Pinterest graphic with the text Uffizi Gallery at the top over a picture of the exterior of the Uffizi gallery in Florence, Italy. At the bottom is the text Top Ten Favorites for the Florence-Bound Traveler.

Overview

The Uffizi (which means offices) was built in the mid 16th century by the all-powerful Medici family in order to administer their vast holdings and show off their art collections.

Designed by Giorgio Vasari, the Uffizi was opened to the public as a museum in 1769.

The Uffizi is big and crowded and even, at times, overwhelming. All that amazing art concentrated in one space makes for a heady experience. Take your time and enjoy the ride.

Assume you’ll return!

When to Visit

The very best time to visit the Uffizi Gallery is first thing in the morning, particularly if you are visiting in high season (April to October).

You’ll have the vast complex to yourself, at least for a little while, so you can trip wide-eyed from room to room in peace. You may even snag a place in front of one of the two most famous Botticellis without sharing air with dozens of other people.

If you’re visiting Florence between November and March, you’ll find fewer crowds and a more relaxed pace.

As a result, you’ll likely be comfortable visiting at any time of day. On a recent visit in November, I chose an afternoon time. Although the Uffizi was less crowded than I’ve found it at other times of the year, it was hardly empty.

I still saw a long line-up of people who hadn’t gotten the memo about buying their tickets in advance, and large groups of art lovers jockeying for position in front of the Botticellis.

Getting Tickets

No matter what time of year you visit, purchase your tickets to the Uffizi Gallery in advance. In high season, purchase them at least a week or more before your visit. You’ll get the entry time that suits your schedule and you won’t need to queue up.

We arrived at the Uffizi about 45 minutes before our 13:15 entry time. The weary ticket collector let us in anyway, probably because it was November. The only delay was getting through security. Here’s an option for buying tickets.

https://www.getyourguide.com/florence-l32/florence-uffizi-gallery-skip-the-line-ticket-t638304/?ranking_uuid=f0d9101e-2bb9-453e-bb6c-cdb4745d1bb0

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Location of the Uffizi Gallery

The map below shows the location of the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.

Also shown is the location of the Accademia (#2), the Duomo (aka Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore) at #3, the Bargelo (#4), the Museo di Palazzo Davanzati–an awesome small museum showing what life was like for a wealthy person in medieval Florence (#5), and the gorgeous apartment we stayed in on the banks of the Arno during our three-day stay in Florence in November (#6: see below for more information about the Palazzo Serristori Residence — high recommended).

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

As mentioned above, the Uffizi Gallery is large and brimming with amazing art, particularly Renaissance masterpieces. To avoid burnout, I suggest you focus on enjoying ten to twenty pieces rather than stopping to admire every piece. Doing so will quickly exhaust you.

Crowds of people in a hallway in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
Even in November, visitors throng the long corridors in the Uffizi

The Uffizi’s collection of amazing artwork is spread across two floors, with the most famous pieces by artists such as Botticelli, Michelangelo, Raphael, and Giotto located on the second floor.

I suggest taking the elevator to Level 2 and then starting with the room of medieval art that contains gorgeous works by Giotti, Lorenzetti, and Martini.

Here are my ten favorite pieces in the Uffizi, presented by artist and in the order in which you’ll encounter them.

Giotto

I’ve become a big Giotto fan over the years. Although he died in 1337, Giotto is considered the first artist of the Renaissance because of his use of realism to depict his subjects.

His most famous works are the frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua and in the Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi.

Madonna and Child Enthroned with Angels and Saints shown below is one of Giotto’s most iconic pieces. It’s truly breathtaking, particularly when you realize that Giotto painted it in 1306 at a time when other artists were still depicting everything on one plane.

Check out the Madonna’s knee under the blue drapery of her gown. It’s three-dimensional. This use of perspective set Giotto apart from his contemporaries and heralded the realism that become the hallmark of the Renaissance painters such as Da Vinci and Raphael over 150 years later.

This painting was a source of inspiration for Florentine artists for generations.

Madonna and Child Enthroned with Angels and Saints by Giotto in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
Madonna and Child Enthroned with Angels and Saints, 1306-10, Giotto

Martini

I have a huge soft spot for Simone Martini, who was active in the mid-14th century. I even include a reference to his Maesta fresco in Siena’s Palazzo Pubblico in my novel The Towers of Tuscany.

In The Annunciation with St. Ansansu and St. Maxima, below, I love Martini’s over-the-top use of gold, as well as how he shows the Archangel Gabriel in relationship to Mary.

Martini depicts a fluttering cloak and unfurled wings to suggest that the angel’s appearance is sudden. No wonder Mary looks distressed, turning away and wrapping her cloak around her. The fact that Gabriel is telling her she’s to be the mother of Jesus would have likely added to her confusion and distress.

In her hand, Mary holds a book. Martini is likening her to a wealthy Sienese woman–the only women who would be able to afford a book, much less read it. Memmo Lippi is also given credit for the work.

Annunciation by Martini in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
Annunciation with St. Maxima and St. Ansanus, 1333, Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi

Lorenzetti

Every time I walk into a room of medieval paintings in an art museum, I make a beeline for anything painted by Ambrolgio Lorenzetti. He’s a Siena hometown boy who was a major figure in his day, before succumbing to the plague (so far as we know) in 1348. He painted The Allegory of Good and Bad Government frescoes in Siena’s Palazzo Publicco, one of the palazzo’s many breathtaking highlights.

Lorenzetti painted the four panels from the life of St. Nicholas shown below. I get such a kick out of Lorenzetti’s depictions of people and life in medieval Siena and the architecture–the graceful archways, exterior staircases, and crenelated rooftops.

I’ve spent a lot of time over the years looking at Lorenzetti’s work to help me visualize what Siena looked like in the mid-14th century so that I can accurately write about the period.

St. Nicolas Gives to the Poor

In the top left painting, St. Nicholas is throwing pieces of gold to a poor man to enable him to gather the dowry required to marry off his daughters. The point is that St. Nicholas is carrying out the charitable deed secretly and humbly, without seeking acknowledgment. What a swell guy!

St. Nicholas Gets Ordained

In the bottom left painting, St. Nicholas is being ordained as a bishop of the city of Myra in Asia Minor. The legend is that the prelates who had gathered to elect the new bishop of Myra heard a voice ordering them to choose the first man named Nicholas who entered the church.

And guess who just happened to walk in?

St. Nicholas Raises the Dead

The top right painting depicts a miracle performed by St. Nicholas after his death. He returns to bring a child back to life after the child was killed by the devil disguised as a pilgrim (the figure in black mounting the stairs).

There’s a lot to look at in this panel. I particularly like the way the figures are portrayed in the upper and lower rooms.

St. Nicholas Talks to Sailors

In bottom right panel, Nicholas asks sailors to give some of the grain their ships are carrying to the starving people of Myra. When the sailors comply, the ships are miraculously replenished with grain.

Four paintings of the Life of Saint Nicholas by Lorenzetti in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.

Uccello

This large painting by Paolo Uccello dominated the wall on which it was installed in the Uffizi. Check out all the horses–so much vigor and action.

The painting is called The Battle of San Romano and is part of a cycle of three paintings that celebrated the victory of the Florentine forces over the Sienese troops in 1432.

Poor Siena. It had a tough time after being devastated by plague in 1348 and then suffering numerous mercenary raids, famines, and hostile takeovers culminating in its defeat at the hands of the bellicose Florentines in 1432.

While I’m firmly on the side of Team Siena since I’m currently writing a novel set there, I have to admire how Uccello depicted the battle in his painting.

The batlle of Romano by Uccello in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
The Battle of Romano, 1435-40, Paolo Uccello

Botticelli

No visit to the Uffizi Gallery is complete without doing some serious swooning in front of two of Botticelli’s most famous paintings–Primavera and The Birth of Venus.

They are both huge and both fantastic–that is, if you can get close enough to get a good, long look.

The large room in which the paintings are hung is mobbed with visitors, all brandishing cell phones and elbowing for position to get a good shot. I know. I was one of them.

Standing in quiet contemplation is out of the question. But it’s still worth seeing the paintings in the flesh, so to speak, just to confirm that yes, indeed, they deserve their vaunted place in western art history.

The figures are ethereal and also realistic, the movement joyous, the themes full of promise and celebration. I don’t think it’s possible to look at Botticelli’s masterpieces and not smile.

Primavera

Here’s what you see while approaching Primavera.

Crowds in front of Primavera by Botticelli in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.

And here’s the shot I managed to get when it was my turn to step in front of the painting. It truly is a wonderful work.

Botticelli had chops, all right. Look at how he depicts the gossamer draperies encasing the three dancing muses and the figure to the right. The central figure in the painting is Venus, goddess of love and beauty. She’s a stunner for sure.

Primavera by Botticelli in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
Primavera, 1480, Sandro Botticelli

The Birth of Venus

The Birth of Venus is just as mobbed as Primavera, which comes as no surprise considering versions of this work appears on everything from aprons to mugs to mouse pads in Florence’s gift shops.

There is so much movement; you can practically feel the wind in your hair as you contemplate this painting, which depicts Venus, goddess of love and beauty, surfing to land on a clam shell, gently spritzed with sea spray and blown by the winds Zephyr and Aura.

I wasn’t able to get a decent shot of the painting, so the image below is from the Uffizi’s marvelous website.

The Birth of Venus, 1486, Sandro Botticelli

Michelangelo

Florence’s Number One Son is well represented at the Uffizi Gallery and elsewhere in Florence. Thanks to a long and prolific career, Michelangelo’s work is pretty much synonymous with the Italian Renaissance.

One of the masterpieces at the Uffizi Gallery is the magnificent, circular Doni Tondo, the only finished panel painting done by Michelangelo that has survived the centuries. It glows.

Doni Tondo by Michelangelo in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
Doni Tondo, 1505-1506, Michelangelo

Piero della Francesca

Piero della Francesca’s double portrait of the Grand Duke of Urbino and his wife positively defines aristocratic haughtiness. Imagine the amount of time the duchess must have had to sit still to have that hairdo done. 

I’m hoping it wasn’t a daily thing.

Look at the background–how it continues through from one side to the next. Showing the two figures in profile is a typical device in 15th century portraits that was a throwback to ancient coins. The artist’s attention to detail is a result of his training in both Florentine and Flemish traditions.

The Duke and Duchess of Urbino Frederico da Montefeltro and Battista Sforza, 1473-75, Piero della Francesca

Leonardo da Vinci

Another big draw to the Uffizi Gallery is the presence of a handful of paintings by Leonardo da Vinci.

My favorite is his Annunciation because I love the contrast in styles between da Vinci’s version done in the late 15th century and Martini’s version done in the mid-14th century (see above).

In da Vinci’s Annunication, the figures are rendered extremely realistically and are also quite static. The Virgin is not shrinking away from the Archangel Gabriel, but is confident and receptive. The trees almost look like fantasy trees, and the distant mountains like something out of Lord of the Rings.

The way da Vinci renders the folds of the clothing is remarkable, considering he completed this painting when he was still quite young.

Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
Annunciation, 1472, Leonardo da Vinci

Raphael

I’ve grown to appreciate Raphael’s work over the years. He’s certainly one of the biggies, considered by some to be the greatest painter of them all.

There’s a lot of justification for that view. Unlike Michelangelo and da Vinci, who had other pursuits (science for da Vinci and architecture and sculpture for Michelangelo), Raphael only did painting–and an astonishing amount of it considering he died young, while da Vinci and Michelangelo both lived to ripe old ages.

The work by Raphael I most liked in the Uffizi is Madonna of the Goldfinch. The expression on the face of the Virgin Mary is so youthful and serene. Unlike many Madonnas, she really does look like a young mum.

The trees and landscape in the background are so beautifully rendered. In places they almost look like something Cézanne would have painted 400 years later. And check out the red of the Madonna’s gown–so rich and full and Florentine. It’s a keeper.

Madonna of the Goldfinch by Raphael in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
Mary, Christ and the young John the Baptist, known as “Madonna of the Goldfinch“, 1506, Raffaello Sanzio

More Uffizi

After exploring the long galleries on Level 2 of the Uffizi, descend to Level 1 to take in even more masterpieces of the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries.

Highlights are the Titian’s Venus of Urbino, Caravaggio’s Medusa, and my fave, Judith Beheading Holofernes by Artemisia Gentileschi.

Enjoying Florence

You emerge from the Uffizi into the beautiful piazza della Signoria. Here, you’ll stare up at the Palazzo Vecchio with its iconic tower, check out a statue of Michelangelo’s David (the original is displayed in the Accademia), and marvel at the fountain and statue of Neptune.

Here’s a shot of it in the evening.

Neptune's Fountain in the Piazza della Signoria in Florence
Neptune’s Fountain in the Piazza della Signoria in Florence

Resist the urge to stop and have a coffee at one of the cafes in the piazza, These high-rent places cater to tourists and have sky-high prices.

Walk a few blocks into the maze of streets leading from the piazza toward the river to find slightly less touristy places, although to be honest, Florence is Tourism Central.

And no wonder! It’s crowded, crammed with souvenir shops, and far from undiscovered. But hey, it’s Florence, and there’s no place on Earth quite like it for conjuring the grandeur and pomposity of the Renaissance.

Staying in Florence

On each visit to Florence, I’ve stayed somewhere different–sometimes on the outskirts and sometimes in the middle.

My very favorite place was Serristori Palace Residence. Although a bit on the pricey side, the Serristori Palace Residence is excellent value because of the size of the one-bedroom apartment, with high ceilings, view of the river, and its excellent location.

Here’s a video I shot from the bedroom window early on a breezy November morning.

You will need to walk a good fifteen minutes to reach the center of Florence. But the walk that takes you along the Arno is just spectacular, particularly at sunset. Compared to a typical hotel room in Florence, the Serristori Palace Residence is almost a bargain, at least for Florence.

Here’s me on the walk into Florence on a brilliantly sunny (but not particularly warm) November day.

Carol Cram on a bridge across the Arno with the Palazzo Vecchio and Ponte Vecchio in the background in Florence.

Tickets and Tours in Florence

You can easily spend several days in Florence, immersing yourself in the great art of the western world. If you’re short on time, consider a guided tour. Here are a few suggestions from GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com. I’ve purchased tours and tickets through both companies and been very satisfied with the prices, the quality of the tours, and the ease of booking

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Walking Tours in Florence

Florence is a great city for a walking tour. It’s relatively small and that is a LOT to see. Check out these tours offered through GuruWalks.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Uffizi? What were some of your favorite pieces? Share your thoughts in the Comments below.