Tanvi Pathare and the Villa Lena in Tuscany

Free Your Inner Floral Artist at Stunning Villa Lena in the Tuscan Countryside

As an Artsy Traveler, one of the most rewarding things I recommend you do is sign up for an artsy retreat in a gorgeous location. You’ll get inspired while learning new techniques and meeting like-minded travelers.

I recently discovered the Villa Lena in Tuscany (and I LOVE Tuscany!) where you can do just that.

Imagine spending four days surrounded by spring flowers in the Tuscan countryside while you learn how to arrange and paint flowers with master artist Tanvi Pathare.

Tanvi Pathare floral painting workshop at Villa Lena in Tuscany

From May 5th to 10th in 2023, Tanvi will be conducting four watercolor master classes that “will focus on an old and healing art form: the slow-paced appreciation of flowers, landscapes, and natural beauty.”

Sounds pretty awesome to me! I hooked up virtually with Tanvi and asked her some questions about her background as an artist and about her upcoming Flower Painting Retreat at the Villa Lena in Tuscany.

Interview with Tanvi Pathare

I interviewed Tanvi virtually (and hope one day to meet and learn with her in person!). Here is our interview.

Who is Tanvi Pathare?

Artsy Traveler: Tell us about your background as an artist–where you studied and some of your influences.

Tanvi Pathare: I was born in Mumbai, India. Since an early age, I was fascinated by the idea that you could create something beautiful with your hands; I enjoyed the craft element of it. I studied at the Sir J. J. School of Art in Mumbai, after which I moved to Florence in the search of more formal training as a realist painter.

I studied in the painting program at the Florence Academy of Art. After graduating from this program, I began teaching, and have been a Principal Instructor for drawing and painting at The Florence Academy ever since.

I look up to painters such as Rembrandt, Titian, Van Dyck, John Singer Sargent, Emil Carlsen, Henri Fantin-Latour, and Isaac Levitan to name a few.

Tanvi’s Inspiration

Artsy Traveler: What is it about floral painting that inspires you?

Tanvi Pathare: I feel my journey as a painter involves the constant delightful pursuit of studying the perfection of nature. Flowers are a wonderful source of inspiration, as they change, move, and grow. I find tracking their beauty through paint highly intriguing.

Tanvi Pathare painting in Tuscany
Tanvi teaching painting in Florence

Tanvi’s Favorite Flowers

Artsy Traveler: Do you have any favorite flowers that you particularly enjoy painting?

Tanvi Pathare: I truly enjoy painting roses and peonies. I think their overall forms are very intricate, and hence a good place to spend a few hours meditating over them.

Painting of peonies by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany
Painting of peonies by Tanvi Pathare

Influences of Location

Artsy Traveler: You grew up in India and now live in Florence. How have these locations inspired you? What changed in your work when you moved to Europe? 

Tanvi Pathare: I think having grown up in India, color (and a lot of it) was always a part of my visual aesthetic. Moving to Florence, I think my palette, became a bit more harmonized, though still having sharp color notes. My formal training in Florence helped me organize my ideas in a more cohesive way. Living in Florence, you are spoilt by the beauty around you. I think Mumbai and Florence will always be an integral part of my language as a painter.

Villa Lena Workshop

Artsy Traveler: As a workshop leader, what do you hope participants will take away from their experience painting with you?

Tanvi Pathare: hope that participants walk away with a new found appreciation of nature and flowers. Painting flowers is a beautiful way of truly appreciating their beauty because you spend much longer looking at them, versus just taking a picture of them and moving along..

White Roses by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany
White Roses by Tanvi Pathare

Tanvi Pathare’s Artwork

Tanvi’s art is truly exquisite. Her website beautifully showcases her work with various subjects: portraits, landscapes, and still lifes (lots of flowers in this category).

Here is a selection of some of her works I particularly liked. I can definitely see how she is influenced by masters such as Titian and Rembrandt and also by 19th century painters such as Henri Fantin-Latour and John Singer Sargent.

Landscapes by Tanvi Pathare

Tanvi’s website includes several paintings of the Tuscan landscape. Artists have been captivated by this landscape for centuries and no wonder. Tanvi captures the light and motion with fluid strokes and an eye for strong composition.

Landscape painting by Tanvi Pathare
The Valley in Lucca by Tanvi Pathare
Painting of the Mediterranean by Tanvi Pathare
The Mediterranean by Tanvi Pathare

Still Lifes by Tanvi Pathare

I often gravitate to still life paintings when I tour art museums. I especially enjoy flower paintings, perhaps because my mother painted flowers almost until she passed at the age of 93. So flower paintings have been a part of my life forever. Also, although I’m not the best of gardeners, I love watching flowers grow! Tanvi’s flower paintings really spoke to me. She captures the exuberance of their colors and the whimsy of their forms spilling out of vases and scattering petals. I feel like I can reach out and pluck a rose just before it falls.

Wine and Roses by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany
Wine and Roses by Tanvi Pathare
Of Peonies and Roses by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany
Of Peonies and Roses by Tanvi Pathare
A Wisteria Dream by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany
A Wisteria Dream by Tanvi Pathare
Still Life with Roses and Cherry Blossoms by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany
Still Life with Roses and Cherry Blossoms by Tanvi Pathare

To see more of Tanvi’s work, check her website.

About the Flower Painting Workshop at Villa Lena

The Flower Painting Workshop at Villa Lena runs from May 5th to May 10th, 2023. You stay at the Villa Lena and can participate in many more activities in addition to flower painting.

When I read the description about what participants in Tanvi’s floral painting workshop at the Villa Lena are going to do during their stay, I wish I could hop on a plane and attend myself. Alas, not this Spring, although I plan to visit the Villa Lena when I’m in Tuscany in the Fall of 2023.

Here’s what you’ll enjoy during your floral painting workshop:

  • 5 nights accommodation on site at Villa Lena 
  • Full board – farm to table feasting. 
  • 4 master classes on painting floral compositions with Tanvi Pathare
  • Wine tasting
  • Afternoon tea & baking lesson with in-house pastry chef 
  • Pasta cooking class
  • Olive oil tasting 
  • Guided tours of the VL orto & flower farm, with flower cutting session
  • Daily Yoga 
  • Access to Villa Lena facilities including 2 pools, 2 bars and beautiful common areas. 

That sounds like an amazing way to spend some time in Tuscany! Interested?

Click here for more information and to book.

Full disclosure: If you follow this link and book a stay at the Villa Lena, I earn a small commission. Thank you!

Flowers at the Villa Lena in Tuscany
Having a meal at the Villa Lena in Tuscany

Visit Villa Lena

Villa Lena is located in the heart of Tuscany between Pisa and Florence. The villa hosts retreats and offers agriturismo accommodation.

Aerial view of the pool at the Villa Lena in Tuscany
Villa Lena in Tuscany
View over the Tuscan countryside
Pool overlooking the Tuscany countryside at Villa Lena

Staying at the Villa Lena

The accommodations at Villa Lena are stylish and comfortable. I’m imagining myself sitting in front of that view doing some writing. I’ve always found Tuscany an incredibly inspiring place to work and can’t wait to get back there in Fall 2023.

view from a room at Villa Lena
View from a room at Vill Lena
A bedroom at the Villa Lena

Villa Lena Foundation

The villa is also affiliated with the Villa Lena Foundation, a not-for-profit organization dedicated to supporting international contemporary artists working in art, music, film, literature, fashion, and other creative disciplines, and fostering opportunities for multi-disciplinary dialogue. If you’re an artist, you can apply to do at residency at the Villa Lena Foundation. Applications open soon for residencies in 2024. Check the Villa Lena Foundation website for details.

Art Studio at the Villa Lena Foundation
Art studio at the Villa Lena Foundation

Conclusion

Are you traveling to Tuscany this spring? Consider spending time at the Villa Lena learning flower painting with Tanvi Pathare. You’ll come away with a renewed appreciation of the beauty of nature and a painting or two that you’ve created.

Have you ever taken an art workshop or gone on a painting retreat? Share your experience and suggestions with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts about artists and artsy traveling in Tuscany:

Row of cypress trees in Tuscany in the late afternoon

Stay at Sant’Antonio Country Resort near Spectacular Montepulciano in Tuscany

Every so often when traveling, serendipity rears its delightful head. The plans you’ve made go awry, but instead of facing disaster, you step into something even more wonderful.

That happened to us while traveling a few kilometers out of the fabled town of Montepulciano in Tuscany.

Read about our day leading up to finding Sant’Antonio Country Resort or cut to the chase and scroll down to my review!

Pin of Sant'Antonio Country Resort - Recommended place to stay

Lead-Up to Montepulciano

In Rome, we woke up to the first rainy day of our time in Italy (we’d been in the country two weeks). The clanging at the building site next door to our apartment was slightly muted, much to our relief.

After nine nights, it was time to leave the Eternal City. We were all packed and waiting at the door for our 10:30 Uber. Horrendous Rome traffic delayed him over half an hour, but when he finally arrived, Roberto was cheerful and helpful.

Thirty minutes later, he dropped us at the garage where we found the same smiling attendant and our car already out of its slot and waiting for us to drive it away. What a wonderful service. Shout-out to Parclick!

Arrival in Montepulciano

We made it out of Rome without even one wrong turn—perhaps a record for us! Soon, we were back on the Autostrade speeding north to Tuscany. Ah, Tuscany! It’s one of my favorite places in Europe which is why I set my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, there. I’m working on two more novels set in Tuscany; perhaps on this trip I’d find more inspiration to finish them.

View of the Tuscan countryside
The beauty of the Tuscany landscape never gets old

After a smooth two-hour drive, we pulled up in front of our hotel for two nights—a lovely Albergo about five minutes outside Montepulciano. Neither of us had ever visited Montepulciano and so decided that on this trip we’d skip our usual visits to San Gimignano and Siena and see something new. Good call!

No Room at the Inn

Except we had a few more hoops to go through before the full Tuscan experience would wash over us.

The proprietor of the hotel looked puzzled when I give him my name. He searched his list, frowned, shook his head.

No, Signora.

Oh dear. I pulled out my phone and showed him my booking on booking.com and said in a somewhat aggrieved tone, We’ve definitely booked! See – October 13 to 15! A little shiver of doubt ran through me as I said this. Wasn’t today October 13?

He peered at my phone. Ah. That’s next year, Signora.

Oh.

And of course the place was full.

Plan B

We piled back into the car and started driving toward a place he suggested. Within three minutes–Google Maps notwithstanding–we were lost. We’ve found that Google Maps doesn’t always work well in the Italian countryside, or in the cities for that matter.

Gregg pulled over and I consulted my phone to see what booking.com had to offer. Fortunately, several options popped up around Montepulciano. We wanted something outside the town in a country setting. Over the years, we’ve had our share of disasters when we’ve booked places within the medieval walls of an ancient town. If you’ve ever done so, you’ll know what I mean. And if you haven’t, trust me.

If you’re driving, never book a place inside the walls of a medieval city. Ever.

Success

After a few searches, I selected Sant’Antonio Country Resort. It ticked all the boxes–countryside, looked pretty, nice big rooms, mid-range price, and best of all, available. I booked it, paid for it, and entered the address in Google Maps. The suggested route took us around Montepulciano where a band of red showed traffic congestion. Another route that was supposed to be slower but seemingly more direct took us across country in a straight line.

Throwing caution to the wind, I decided to ignore Google Maps and the nice GPS lady and directed Gregg along the other route.

On Our Way Again

Soon, we were bumping along dirt roads cleaving through vine-studded fields punctuated by deep green cypresses. In the distance, a row of pale blue Tuscan mountains floated in a smoky autumnal haze.

View of Tuscan countryside from Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano

It was the Tuscany of our dreams. And fortunately, the road, although unpaved, was not undrivable. So, at a leisurely and extremely scenic pace, we eventually arrived at a massive iron gate—the entrance to the grandly named Sant’Antonio Country Resort.

I wasn’t sure what to expect.

I pressed the intercom and a voice told us to drive in as the gates slowly opened. The owners were incredibly welcoming and friendly. They informed us that never in the history of their working with booking.com had anyone ever booked on the website on the same day they wanted to stay. Apparently, the system is designed to reject such bookings.

But for some unexplainable reason, a glitch in the system let us through. How fortuitous!

Heaven at Sant’Antonio Country Resort: My Review

Sant’Antonio Country Resort is everything we love about Tuscany. Here’s why:

  • Located out in the country but still within a short drive of an iconic hilltown, in this case, Montepulciano
  • Plenty of free parking and easy to drive to
  • Gorgeous self-contained units in a renovated medieval convent
  • Most units with terraces
  • A swimming pool and many outdoor areas on the grounds
  • Plenty of country walks and scenic drives nearby
  • Stunning vistas of olive trees and cypresses at every turn
  • Excellent reviews
  • Friendly and accommodating owners who speak English and genuinely love sharing their little piece of heaven with their guests

And at the Sant’Antonio Country Resort, there is even a friendly fox that likes to steal shoes. We were warned not to leave our shoes outside our door because the fox would take them. What the fox does with the shoes is a mystery, but we agreed not to find out.

Our Accommodation at Sant’Antonio Country Resort

The owners very kindly upgraded us to a two-bedroom apartment complete with very comfortable living room, a big dining room, a large bed in the master bedroom, a second smaller bedroom where we stashed the luggage, and two bathrooms.

Oh, and two terraces.

Here are a few photographs of the place.

Tuscan farmhouse accommodation at Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano
Our two-bedroom apartment is on the ground floor
Living room at Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano
Comfortable living room and dining area
Carol Cram walking in the countryside near Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano
On a walk on the grounds of the resort
Shaded walkway at a country resort in Tuscany
Beautiful spots for relaxing all over the property

Memorable Dinners in Montepulciano

After a few hours reveling in our good luck, we left around 5 pm for a drive up to Montepulciano which we discovered is a lovely, calm town, much less frenetic than other Tuscan towns such as San Gimignano.

The deal here is food and wine—lots of wine, particularly the vino nobile of Montepulciano. We stopped at a little bar and I sampled my first glass while Gregg had a cappuccino. With about an hour to kill before our dinner reservation (kindly made by our hosts at Sant’Antonio Country Resort), we climbed the cobbled streets to reach the piazza. It was nearly empty in the early evening. I imagine that during the day, the place is mobbed.

Carol in the main piazza in Montelpulciano in Tuscany
Carol in the Grande Piazza in Montepulciano
Looking over the Tuscan countryside from Montepulciano at sunset
Sunset over Tuscany from Montepulciano
Large medieval buidling with porticos against a darkening sky in Montepulciano, Tuscany
Darkness falls over Montepulciano

Dinner at Porta di Bacco was served in an ancient room replete with a column (is it Roman?) and brick arches. The wine and food were predictably excellent. I ordered gnocchi with a duck ragout—hearty and tasty. The food here is different from Rome – more country-style and a nice change from the usual fare offered in Roman trattorias, which can get a bit repetitive.

After a moonlit stroll back to the car, we faced the challenging drive in the dark back to Sant’Antonio Country Resort. A drive that in daylight is quick and easy took on a different tenor at night. We made a few wrong turns but eventually got back on track and were soon pulling into our temporary home.

The next night we dined at Ristorante La Grotta, outside the city walls. Located in a 16th-century building, the restaurant was directly opposite the Church of San Biagio, a noted example of Tuscan Renaissance architecture.

Carol Cram in the Ristorante La Grotta in Montelpulciano
Getting settled at the Ristorante La Grotta
Beautifully plated dessert at La Grotta Restaurant in Montepulciano
My dessert
Church of San Biagio with Montepulciano perched on the hill above

I highly recommend Ristorante La Grotta for a Tuscan splurge. The service was impeccable and the food excellent. It was the most expensive meal we had in nine weeks, but at 110 Euros for three gourmet courses and excellent wine, it was an amazing bargain!

Enjoying Sant’Antonio Country Resort

While at Sant’Antonio Country Resort, we met some fellow Canadians who shared that they’ve visited before, and love returning. I can’t say I blame them!

We spent our day “off” from traveling by taking walks around the property (it stretches for several hectares), enjoying a drive along small country roads in the area, and generally chilling out. We even saw the fox!

Gregg on the terrace at Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano
Gregg working on one of our two terraces
Swimming pool at Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano
Swimming pool (too cold in October!)
Beautiful walkway at Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano
Walkway to our suite
Outdoor dining area at Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano
An outdoor dining area for guests
Vista of Tuscany countryside
Beautiful vista of Tuscan countryside near Sant’Antonio Country Resort

Should You Visit Sant’Antonio Country Resort?

If you’re looking for a Tuscan retreat that is reasonably priced (albeit slightly on the high side, but worth it), set in a glorious landscape, and owned by very helpful and friendly hosts, then I can’t recommend Sant’Antonio Country Resort highly enough.

For other places in and around Montepulciano, click the map below.



Booking.com

Tours of the Tuscan Countryside

Many years ago, I took a wine tour of Tuscany that included a visit to a vineyard near Montepulciano. If you have a day to spare while visiting Tuscany, I highly recommend booking a wine tour. Here are a few suggestions.

Other Posts about Tuscany

Over the past three decades, I’ve visited Tuscany at least a dozen times, and every time I discover new wonders to enjoy and fabulous places to stay. For more suggestions about Tuscany, check out these posts:

Do you have a favorite place to stay in Tuscany? Let us know in the Comments below.

Silvia Salvadori, an artist in Arezzo with author Carol Cram

A Visit with Tuscan Artist Silvia Salvadori in Arezzo, Tuscany

Artsy traveling means being on the lookout for interesting encounters with artists, artisans, musicians, writers—the whole pantheon of creative people.

In Arezzo, a delightful town in Tuscany known as the city of gold and high fashion, I met with visual artist Silvia Salvadori.

Silvia works out of her studio, the Bottega d’Arte Toscana, on a tiny side street steps from the Piazza Grande in Arezzo (see the map below).

If you are in Arezzo, stop by to meet her and see her marvelous work.

Pinterest graphic showing Carol Cram with Silvia Salvadori, an artist in Arezzo, Itlay in her studio.

Map of Arezzo

Places mapped by Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Silvia is one of the very few artists in Italy who creates art using the same painting techniques as those used by the great masters of medieval Tuscany. I’m talking about such luminaries as Giotto, Duccio, and Lorenzetti—all artists I love and who inspired my debut novel The Towers of Tuscany.

Who is Silvia Salvadori?

Silvia’s ambition as an artist is to preserve and promote the ancient painting techniques described by Cennino Cennini in his work Il Libro dell’Arte (1370-1440) and by Giorgio Vasari in the Lives of the most excellent painters, sculptors, and architects (1550-1568). 

Using these techniques, Silvia draws her inspiration from the art created by artists in Florence and Siena during medieval, Gothic, and early Renaissance times.

Silvia’s workshop–the Bottega d’Arte Toscana–is a treasure trove of beautiful paintings. One of the more prominent pieces is A Window in Time that hangs on the back wall of the Bottega and immediately captured my attention.

This arresting painting is a tribute to the city of Arezzo and the work of Piero della Francesca. The painting is a good example of how Silvia uses medieval painting techniques to put her own spin on a medieval subject.

A Window On Time - medieval-style painting of a woman playing chess by Silvia Salvadori

Interview with Silvia Salvadori

I interviewed Silvia in the Bottega d’Arte Toscana in Arezzo in October 2022. Here’s an excerpt from our lively conversation conducted with the aid of a translation app.

Silvia’s Inspiration

Artsy Traveler: Why have you chosen to create works inspired by medieval art and using medieval techniques?

Silvia Salvadori: Twenty years ago, I began to study these painting techniques while at school in Siena. From there, a real adventure began. I decided I wanted to rediscover and use the painting techniques described by Cennini, a painter who lived in the 14th century and was a pupil of Giotto.

Selection of pigments and brushes and other painting tools in the workshop of Silvia Salvadori
Art materials being used in Silvia’s workshop

Silvia’s Goal as an Artist

Artsy Traveler: What is your goal?

Silvia Salvadori: My goal is to preserve these techniques from medieval art and pass them on to future generations. These techniques are typically Tuscan. They were born in Siena  and then also applied later by artists living in Florence and Arezzo where other schools of painting were born.

There have been other artists who have taken up these techniques but only to make reproductions or copies. I started by making copies, but now I am creating a style that is Renaissance but that also looks to the future.

It is a cultural project. These medieval art techniques are important and should not be lost.

How Silvia Creates a Painting

Artsy Traveler: How do you create a painting?

Silvia Salvadori: As described in Cennini’s book Il Libro dell’Arte, I start with wooden boards from poplar, lime, willow or pear trees that have been aged at least thirty years. I then prepare them using layers and layers (eight to twelve coats) of rabbit skin glue mixed with chalk. The chalk I use is the same kind that Cennini used in the 14th century. I also use the same pigments that Cennini describes.

The second phase is gilding performed with thin leaves of pure 23 carat gold stretched on a thin layer of red clay. I also use precious gems. These gems all had special meaning in medieval times. For example, amber, which I use a lot, symbolizes eternity.

For a detailed description of all the steps involved in creating a painting, check this page on Silvia’s website.

Silvia demonstrates how she uses a small punch to make designs in the gold leaf.

Landscapes in Silvia’s Work

Artsy Traveler: I see that you also often include landscapes in your paintings.

Silvia Salvadori: Yes, since I live in Arezzo and every day see the Tuscany landscape, I like to include it in my paintings.

An example of one of Silvia Salvadori’s landscape paintings

Looking to the Future

Artsy Traveler: Will you one day teach your techniques?

Silvia: I would very much like to teach young people how to paint using these techniques so that the techniques are not lost. But as Cennino said, technique is not enough. To create art, you must have a kind soul.

Silvia’s Artwork

As soon as you see one of Silvia’s pieces, you know you are looking at work inspired by medieval and Renaissance art. And while most of her subjects are directly related to their medieval and Renaissance counterparts, some subjects are contemporary and from pop culture.

Silvia’s work glows with the rich colors she creates from pigments she mixes with egg tempera, just like Cennini describes in his handbook. Her skill is awe-inspiring. Following are examples of the many gorgeous paintings hanging in Bottega d’Arte.

Paintings of Madonna and Child

Go to any art gallery in Italy that features medieval art and you’ll see scores of depictions of the Madonna and Child. Silvia’s versions, while heavily inspired by medieval works, are fresh and vibrant. The colors glow in the soft light of her workshop.

Here are four of the Madonna and Child paintings displayed in the Bottega d’Arte.

A depiction of the Madonna and Child by Silvia Salvadori done in the medieval style
A small, circular gold painting of the Madonna and Child by Silvia Salvadori done in the medieval style
A gold painting of the Madonna and Child by Silvia Salvadori done in the medieval style
A medieval-inspired painting of the Madonna and Child by Silvia Salvadori done in the medieval style

Paintings of Medieval Scenes

I love how medieval artists depicted buildings and towns. Silvia does the same when she includes buildings in her paintings. I particularly loved these two pieces.

Medieval-style painting of Christ and the devil by Silvia Salvadori
Medieval style painting by Silvia Salvadori of Saint George and the dragon

Paintings with Contemporary Subjects

Silvia doesn’t confine herself to creating works in the medieval style. Many of the paintings in her workshop depict contemporary subjects—from Marilyn Monroe to a dachshund (one of my favorites).

Painting on a gold background of a dachshund

My Connection to Silvia’s Work

I was thrilled to discover Silvia and her beautiful artwork for two reasons. First, as you’ve already seen from the examples included in this post, her work is stunning. And second, her work has a direct connection with my first novel The Towers of Tuscany about a female painter in 14th-century Tuscany.

When I was researching early Renaissance painting techniques in order to write the novel, I read and re-read Il Libro dell’Arte by Cennino de Cennini many times. Imagine my delight to discover that Silvia is intimately familiar with Cennini’s book, credited as the first manual designed to teach painting techniques to artists.

I felt honored to spend time with someone totally dedicated to her art. Silvia clearly loves what she does. As I watched her paint with tiny brushes that she uses to meticulously layer on stroke after stroke, I felt like the centuries had melted away and I was watching Sofia Barducci, my fictional heroine in The Towers of Tuscany, at work.

I have every confidence that Silvia will be able to realize her ambition to one day share her knowledge with other artists so that the ancient techniques are kept alive.

Visit Silvia Salvadori

Visit Silvia in the Bottega d’Arte Toscana in Arezzo and tell her the Artsy Traveler sent you! And after you’ve enjoyed meeting Silvia, consider purchasing one of her pieces. She has a wide variety of sizes and subjects to choose from. And considering the hours and hours of work Silvia dedicates to each of her pieces, the prices are very reasonable.

A selection of small paintings for sale in the Bottega d'Arte Toscana in Arezzo
Gregg Simpson with Silvia Salvadori in her studio

I love the small piece I purchased of a stylized Tuscan town painted in Silvia’s unique style. I have hung it next to my writing desk so I can look at it every day and remember the wonderful hour I spent getting to know Silvia and admiring her work.

Small and colorful gold painting by Silvia Salvadori of a Tuscan town
The small painting I purchased from Silvia Salvadori

Visit Arezzo

After meeting Silvia in the Bottega d’Arte, take time to wander around Arezzo. It’s a charming town with plenty to delight the Artsy Traveler. With its inclined trapezoidal shape, the Piazza Grande is one of the most beautiful in Tuscany (which is saying something!).

Here are some pictures of the Piazza Grande.

Piazza Grande in Arezzo in Tuscany
 Medieval houses lining the Piazza Grande in Arezzo in Tuscany

And like so many towns in Tuscany, a big attraction is the food. We passed numerous stores and cafes featuring local cuisine. The specialty in Arezzo is Pappardelle all’Aretina (a ribbon-shaped pasta served with a sauce made from rabbit or duck), Zuppa di Cavolo (a cabbage soup), and the Pappa al Pomodoro (a tomato soup).

While in Arezzo, you can also visit the Vasari House Museum, which is a rare example of an artist’s house from the late Renaissance.

Conclusion

Have you visited Arezzo? Share your experience and suggestions with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts about artists in Europe:

Chef Marco at InRome Cooking making pasta

Cooking in Roma with InRome Cooking

Culinary tourism is definitely a thing, and nowhere more so than in Italy.

Food tours and cooking classes abound and for good reason. Italy and food go together like, well, Italy and food.

The popularity of Stanley Tucci’s series Searching for Italy about food in Italy is proof that eating and cooking continue to be two of the many artsy reasons to travel in Italy.

Is cooking an art? Absolutely!

Carol Cram using a pasta maker at a cooking school in Rome. The text of the graphic is "Cooking in Roma: with InRome Cooking"

And so, while spending a week in Rome, I decided to take a cooking class. I’d taken a cooking class in Paris, and one of my guest posters, Liz Reding, has written a post about her cooking class experiences in France and Spain.

It was time for Italy to take a turn.

Choosing InRome Cooking

I chose a 3-hour cooking class with InRome Cooking. Here’s the link to register if, after reading this post, you’re interested in taking the class.

Full disclosure – the link takes you to the Tiqets.com website, which is one of my affiliates. That means I get a small percentage of the ticket price if you register.

Cut to the chase–I highly recommend taking a 3-hour class with InRome Cooking. The time flew by and not only did I learn a lot, but I also enjoyed a fabulous meal that I’d cooked myself with some help from my new friends and chef Marco.

About InRome Cooking

InRome Cooking operates out of three locations:

  • Flagship school on Corso del Rinascimento in a converted 17th-century palace very close to the Piazza Navona and overlooking the Italian parliament. This is the location for the Hands-on Pasta Making Class & Tiramisù class I took.
  • A sleek and stylish terraced building near the Pantheon on Via Giustiniani.
  • A cooking school located in the Pope’s organic farm at his private estate in Castel Gandolfo outside Rome.

My Experience with InRome Cooking

In this post, I write about my experience taking a 3-hour class at the Corso del Rinascimento location.

InRome Cooking offers several classes–either shared or private.

I chose the Hands-on Pasta Making Class & Tiramisù for two reasons. First, my husband, Gregg Simpson, had recently discovered the delectable delights of Tiramisù and so I thought it would be good to learn how to make it at home. And second, I have a pasta maker gathering dust in my cupboard, and felt it was high time I learned how to use it correctly.

Both goals were met during the course of the evening.

Registering for a Class with InRome Cooking

I registered for the class about three days in advance, in October 2022. The registration process through Tiqets.com was quick and efficient. Within seconds, I had my ticket downloaded and ready to show. It’s advisable to register well in advance. I was probably lucky to get a spot because the class of just twelve participants was full.

Arriving at InRome Cooking

Promptly at 5:20, I arrived at InRome Cooking located at Corso del Rinascimento, 65 after passing it and then doubling back. You have to look closely to see the rather small InRome Cooking sign on the door.

View of the InRome Cooking sign at Corso del Rinascimento, 65 in Rome
InRome Cooking next to the buzzer at Corso del Rinascimento, 65

For a few moments, I was flummoxed, but soon figured out that I needed to ring the buzzer to be let in. A voice answered (phew!), the buzzer buzzed, and I climbed two flights of marble stairs in the converted 17th-century palazzo. I do like a nice palazzo.

I was met at the top of the stairs by Chef Marco holding a clipboard and smiling broadly. He ushered me into a gorgeous, light-filled kitchen and introduced me to my companions for the evening: a mother and son from Arizona; a mother and son from Sweden, a mom and dad and son from San Francisco, and two couples from Toronto.

 The InRome Cooking kitchen with ingredients set out to make Tiramisù
The InRome Cooking kitchen with ingredients set out to make Tiramisù

The evening began promptly at 5:30 with a welcome glass of prosecco. We were then placed around the large table already laden with the ingredients and utensils we’d need to make Tiramisù.

glass of prosecco
Prosecco!
Carol Cram at InRome Cooking
Me with chef Marco

Making Tiramisù

We started by making dessert so it would have time to set before enjoying it at the end of the evening.

Chef Marco paired us up and told us to get cracking (literally!). We each separated an egg to get two yolks. The whites were whisked away to be beaten by the sous chefs for later folding into the Tiramisù. We then set to work beating the gorgeous yellow yolks.

Marco told us that fresh eggs are essential for Tiramisù (or indeed any cooking). They shouldn’t be much older than a few weeks and preferably from local hens. I’m lucky that I live on an island where fresh eggs are readily available.

Throughout the evening, Marco emphasized that great cooking starts with the very freshest of ingredients. You don’t need many ingredients to create a wonderful dish when each ingredient is top quality.

Tiramisù Ingredients

For the Tiramisù, we used only six ingredients: fresh eggs, sugar, mascarpone cheese, ladyfingers (called savoiardi), cold coffee, and cocoa powder (unsweetened) for the topping. Tiramisù translates literally as “pick me up,” a direct result of the espresso used in the recipe.

Tiramisù Method

Under Marco’s expert tutelage, we beat sugar into the egg yolks until the color was a rich and creamy light yellow. The more we beat, the creamier the eggs became. I’d say we beat for at least five minutes. Fortunately, Marco supplied links to recipes at the end of the class so I didn’t need to make notes.

After beating the eggs and sugar, we stirred in very generous dollops of mascarpone cheese. Marco emphasized that precise measuring is not necessary in Italian cooking. A generous tablespoon looked to me more like two or three level tablespoons. But then is there such a thing as too much marscapone?

Next step was folding in generous spoonfuls of whipped egg yolks.

Layering the Tiramisù

With our creamy, eggy, cheesy concoction all mixed and ready to go, we were ready to build our Tiramisù. Marco handed each of us a lovely big tea cup (I suppose coffee cup would be more accurate!) and demonstrated the next steps.

First, I took a ladyfinger biscuit and dipped it quickly into the bowl of cold espresso. Down and up, no lingering. The ladyfinger should absorb the coffee but not be dissolved by it. I then broke the ladyfinger in two and placed it at the bottom of the cup.

Next, I spooned in half of the creamy, eggy, cheesy mixture and then dipped and broke another ladyfinger. Finally, I slathered on the rest of the creamy stuff.

One more step! We were given shakers of pure, unsweetened cocoa to sprinkle on top of the Tiramisù and directed to carve something meaningful into the cocoa so we’d know which one is ours.

Here’s my first (and extremely delicious) attempt at Tiramisù with my initials etched in with a toothpick:

A serviing of Tiramisù made at the InRome Cooking school
Tiramisù made at InRome Cooking

Making Pasta

The Tiramisùs were whisked away and the large workspace cleaned by the staff while I mingled for a while with the other guests and enjoyed another glass of prosecco. Two of the people from Toronto had been to Bowen Island where I live, and one has a friend who has just written her first historical novel. Coincidentally, it’s about a subject that intrigued me after visiting the Back to Backs National Trust property in Birmingham. Small world.

We were to make two kinds of pasta: cacio e pepe and amatriciana It turned out we wouldn’t be making the sauces; Marco demonstrated that. Our job was to make the pasta.

Marco showed us how to mix the two flours and then to knead in the olive oil to make a beautiful, yellow dough. Next step was to pass the dough through the rollers of the pasta maker several times to flatten it and then through the cutters.

The pasta makers were equipped with two cutters–one to make spaghetti which we later ate with the cacio e pepe sauce and one to make fettucine, which we ate with the amatriciana sauce.

Carol Cram passing pasta dough through a pasta maker at the InRome Cooking school
Carol flattening the pasta

Making the Sauces

As he had all evening, Marco emphasized the importance of using just a few, top quality ingredients.

Amatriciana Sauce

The amatriciana sauce contains only three ingredients: Mutti tomato sauce (it only contains tomatoes grown in Italy, of course), small pieces of pork cheek that have been very slowly cooked to release the fat and flavor, and romano cheese.

Marco cooked the fettucine we’d just made for a very few minutes and then showed us how to combine the pasta with the three-ingredient sauce. The smell was amazing!

Cacio e pepe Sauce

This sauce is a Roman specialty and is the simplest of all. Only two ingredients are used–romano cheese and freshly ground pepper. That’s it! Marco demonstrated how he makes the sauce by stirring the starchy water from the boiled pasta into the cheese to make a rich, creamy sauce. He then added the fresh pepper. The result was to die for!

Chef Marco at InRome Cooking school making pasta
Making Amatriciana
Chef Marco at InRome Cooking school adding spaghetti to a sauce.
Making Cacio e pepe

Eating the Results

Following the demonstrations of how the pasta is combined with the two sauces to make Amatriciana and Cacio e pepe, we were invited into the adjacent dining room, complete with coffered, Renaissance style ceiling. I joined the table of Canadians and enjoyed pleasant conversation about travel and food while enjoying the fruits of the evening’s labors.

Amatriciana
Cacio e pepe

Rome Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Rome!

Conclusion

The three-hour cooking class (more like three and half by the time we finished eating) at InRome Cooking is a bargain at only €75 (price varies depending on which class you choose). Considering I enjoyed three delectable courses, learned a lot of valuable cooking tips and even got plenty of hands-on practice, I consider the fee very reasonable indeed.

Have you taken a cooking class in Rome? Share your experience in the comments below.

How to Spend Three Fabulous Days in Venice

A three-day visit to Venice gives you a flavorful taste of this float-on-water, impossibly beautiful city.

I love Venice and go there as often as I can. In three days, you won’t see everything, but you’ll see a fair bit and, most importantly, you’ll whet your appetite (forgive the pun!) to return.

My suggestions for three days in Venice include plenty of time for slowing down and enjoying yourself. You can’t see everything, so don’t even try. Instead, focus on my suggested artsy highlights and still have plenty of energy left over for wandering.

A promotional graphic for a travel guide titled "3 Days in Venice," featuring San Giorgio Maggiore’s silhouette at night.

Best of Venice at a Glance

Venice is probably the most “wanderable” city I’ve ever visited.

Definitely avoid popping into Venice for a day, or worse, an afternoon. It’s better not to visit at all than to end up being jostled around Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) with thousands of other sweaty, rushed tourists.

You’ll come away with a negative view of Venice, and that would be a terrible shame!

I’ve met people who visited Venice for an afternoon from a cruise ship and couldn’t say anything good about the place, calling it hot, crowded, rude, and over-hyped. That makes me want to weep!

Venice is so much more than over-priced coffees on the St. Mark’s Square and gondola traffic jams on the Grand Canal.

  • It’s wandering dark calles late at night when the only sounds are your footsteps on the cobblestones and the swish of water against stone.
  • It’s early morning strolls to take photos of the peculiar Venetian light glinting off bobbing gondolas.
  • It’s a bar hop to sample bàcari and cicchetti and maybe even meet a few Venetians.
  • It’s quiet canals gleaming in the late afternoon sun with nary another human soul in site.
  • And it’s full of wonderful, heart-breakingly lovely art.

Why I Love Venice

Of all the cities I’ve been to, Venice is my favorite. The first time I visited, I couldn’t stop laughing for the first fifteen minutes of our ride on the vaporetto (water bus) from the train station along the Grand Canal to our hotel.

I just couldn’t believe that such a place existed on Earth, that Venice was real.

But Venice is real, and Venice is special.

Quiet side canals glimmer in the luminous Adriatic light, buildings with exotic facades slowly sink into the mud, world-class museums and art galleries abound, peaceful piazzas and bustling piazzas beckon, gondolas glide and water taxis and water busses churn up and down the Grand Canal, and the music of Vivaldi wafts into the night air.

A tranquil Venice canal with charming bridges and cafes, offering a glimpse into the romantic side of the city.
A quiet side canal in Venice

When to Visit Venice

In recent years, my favorite city was become horribly overcrowded. Massive cruise ships dock within sight of the Grand Canal and the cafés on the Piazza San Marco take rip-offs to a whole new level.

That said, go to Venice. Just be strategic about how and when you visit.

Floods in winter are often a serious problem, and summers can be hot and crowded.

I’ve stayed in Venice in both spring and autumn and recommend both seasons. You’ll still encounter crowds, but the weather will be bearable. Just bring lots of mosquito repellent!

A Three-Day Venice Itinerary

Here’s how I suggest you spend your time as an Artsy Traveler with two full days and three nights in Venice.

Day 1 in Venice

Arrival in Venice

Arrive around lunchtime and make your way to your hotel. If you’re driving, park in the Tronchetto Car Park. The rates are fairly reasonable and the car park has a station on the Venice People Mover, an automated tramway that takes you quickly into Venice.

The futuristic glass architecture of the Murano Glass Museum, a must-visit spot to explore Venice's renowned glass artistry.
People Mover station near Tronchetto Car Park in Venice

I wouldn’t waste time parking on the mainland. You’ll save a bit of money, but you’ll also waste a fair bit of time getting into Venice itself. Save your energy for sightseeing! Here’s a comprehensive overview of parking options in Venice.

If you’re taking the train, you’ll arrive at the train station and then, depending on where your hotel is located, hop on a vaporetto–the Venice version of a bus.

Getting Around Venice

The two main ways to get around Venice is by riding the vaporetto–a quintessentially Venetian experience–and walking. You could also take water taxis, but they are super expensive.

I’ve only taken one once from my place near the Grand Canal back to the Tronchetto Car Park at the end of a week in Venice to attend one of Gregg’s art exhibitions. We had a large box of his paintings in addition to our luggage and did not want to wrangle everything on to and off the people mover.

A classic wooden speedboat glides through Venice's waterways, highlighting the city's unique transportation.
A sleek and stylish water taxi may be worth the splurge if you have lots of luggage

Sometimes, saving your legs and your sanity is worth the extra cost of a water taxi. But most of the time, you’ll get everywhere you need to go in Venice either by walking or by taking the vaporetto. Also, even when it’s packed to the gunnels, a ride on the vaporetto is fun!

Buy Tickets in Advance for the Vaporetto

A single ride on a vaporetto costs €9.5! That’s waterway robbery. Fortunately, you can buy a City Pass from the Venezia Unica website CityPass website that includes public transit and entrance to various Venice sites or you can just buy a transit pass for one, two, three, or seven days.

A Vaporetto water taxi cruises along the Grand Canal, passing historic Venetian buildings under a sunny blue sky.
A vaporetto on the Grand Canal in Venice

I suggest buying the three-day pass and using it on Days 1, 2, and 3. On the morning of Day 4 when you’re making your way back to your car, either walk, depending on where you’re staying, or splash out for a single ticket.

I bought a seven-day travel card for €60. Since my apartment was close to the Grand Canal, I used the vaporetto several times a day to get around and to travel to Burano and Murano. Buy the Venice Travel Card at the ticket-vending machines located at the largest vaporetto stops or online before you arrive (most convenient).

And depending where you’re staying in Venice, you may not even need to ride the vaporetto. On my latest trip, I stayed at the San Teodoro Palace right next to the Rialto Bridge, which is about as central a location as you can get. I was able to walk everywhere I wanted to go.

Areas to Stay in Venice

I suggest you stay in the Dosoduro area across the Grand Canal from Piazza San Marco or the area between the Rialto Bridge and the train station. I’ll talk more about hotels later. For now, drop your bags if your room isn’t ready and set out for your first stop.

Activities on Day 1 in Venice

Here’s what you’ll have time to do on your first afternoon and evening in Venice:

  • Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum
  • Walk to and cross the Rialto Bridge
  • Visit Piazza San Marco as the sun is setting and the crowds have thinned
  • Take a traghetto back across the Grand Canal
  • Dine at a small trattoria near your hotel

Here are the details!

Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum

I seriously love this museum. Located right on the Grand Canal and accessed from the Dosoduro district, the Peggy Guggenheim Museum is a must-see for modern art lovers. Peggy Guggenheim was quite the gal in her day. She knew just about every famous modern artist in Europe in the 1930s and 1940s and amassed an amazing collection of their art.

You’ll find works by Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian.

The museum is located in Peggy’s renovated Venetian palazzo. Wander the cool halls to revel in the fabulous collection and then go outside to enjoy a stunning panoramic view of the Grand Canal.

On your first day in Venice, this really is the place to come to get your first Venetian hit.

A visitor smiles beside a modern art sculpture outside the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice, a hub for art enthusiasts.
In front of the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice

You can buy advance tickets (recommended in peak season) here.

Cross the Rialto Bridge

The Rialto Bridge is one of Venice’s most iconic sites and as such it is often heaving with tourists. Avoid crossing it during the day, but definitely cross it at least once or twice during your visit to Venice.

Since it’s one of the very few bridges across the Grand Canal, you can’t miss it!

Venice's famous Rialto Bridge over the turquoise Grand Canal, surrounded by vibrant buildings and gondolas, teeming with visitors.
The Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal is often very crowded
Visit Piazza San Marco

Take your time and wait until the sun is setting and the crowds have dissipated, and then make your way to Piazza San Marco. Called the drawing room of Europe by Napoleon, the Piazza San Marco lives up to the hype, even when seething with tourists.

But it’s better when it’s not too crowded.

Another option is to visit it very early in the morning (see my suggestions for Day 3) or late at night after dinner to really see and appreciate it.

In the evening, you can dance to the music coming from the posh cafés that line both sides of the piazza. Scare away a few pigeons and enjoy.

I have occasionally splurged on a cup of coffee at one of the cafés (the prices are truly eye-watering), but the people-watching is worth the price and hey, you’re in Venice.

Piazza San Marco in Venice, illuminated at night with its iconic bell tower and grand architecture reflected on the wet square after rain.
Piazza San Marco on a rainy evening

Take a Traghetto Back Across the Grand Canal

You have to ride a traghetto at least once while you’re in Venice. These fairly large and plain gondolas ferry people across the Grand Canal from various points.

One option is to catch it from the Santa Sofia boat pier not far from Piazza San Marco and go across to the Rialto Fish Market. The ride is fast, cheap, and great fun.

It’s not exactly a replacement for a “real” gondola ride, but it’s a great budget option, and at least you can say you rode in a gondola.

On the other hand, I do suggest you splurge on a gondola ride (see Day 3 suggestions).

Dine at a Small Trattoria

Check restaurant reviews and find a small restaurant near where you are staying. Avoid the more touristy restaurants at or near Piazza San Marco.

My most memorable meal in Venice was at La Zucca, a small osteria on a side canal on the Dorsoduro side of the Grand Canal. Get reservations in advance (advisable everywhere in Venice) and enjoy!

Day 2 in Venice

On your first of two full days in Venice, use your morning energy for sightseeing (fewer crowds) and then spend the afternoon on Murano. Here’s what I suggest:

  • Visit the Accademia Gallery
  • Visit Murano for a glass-blowing demonstration and to shop for glass
  • Go to a concert of baroque music in the evening

Here are the details!

Activities on Day 2 in Venice

Visit the Accademia Gallery

You’ll find plenty of Renaissance and Baroque biggies in the Accademia in Venice (Gallerie Accademia). Works by such masters as Veronese, Tiepolo, Bellini, and Titian grace the walls of this very walkable and enjoyable museum. It’s not too big and in my experience isn’t usually that crowded.

That said, get tickets in advance to avoid line-ups, just in case. Check the gallery’s website for details. Or consider a private art & culture tour in the Dosodoru. Here’s an option from GetYourGuide:

Powered by GetYourGuide
Take the Vaporetto to Murano

Using your vaporetto pass, hop on the vaporetto for a trip across the lagoon to the lovely island of Murano. It’s quite a long voyage and the lagoon can be choppy.

If you can, snag a seat outside to guard against seasickness.

Murano is the glass-blowing island and allegedly the best place to buy the distinctive Venetian blown glass. There are certainly plenty of shops there and the prices do seem to be a bit more reasonable than the prices at the tourist joints in Venice itself.

Enjoy a Glass-blowing Demonstration

Upon arrival, head for a glass-blowing demonstration. It’s put on for the tourists, and our hand-scarred guy looked kind of bored as he dutifully blew, rotated, heated, and smashed a variety of glass ornaments.

But I enjoyed the demonstration and recommend it to see how glass blowing is done.

A skilled artisan shapes molten Murano glass into a unique creation over a flame, showcasing the intricate craft of Venetian glassmaking.
Glass blowing is big business on the Venetian island of Murano
Browse the Shops

Make your way down some fairly nondescript streets to the main shopping street bisected with a small, straight canal arched over with several small bridges. On both sides of the canal, shop after shop after shop marched a good three blocks in both directions—each one crammed to the ceiling with glass.

A lively canal in Venice, Italy, lined with colorful buildings, small boats, and bustling tourists enjoying the vibrant scenery. Perfect for exploring Venetian culture.
Colorful main drag on the island of Murano

Dozens of storefronts twinkle with heaps of glittering, glaring, glinting glass—swoopy vases and finely spun figures, paperweights, pendants, chandeliers, glasses, earrings, pitchers, plates, bowls, beads.

Every store advertised that their glass is authentic, made on Murano, not in China like 80% of all the other glass for sale in Venice.

Enjoy Lunch Along the Canal in Murano

After shopping, enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of the canalside restaurants in Murano and then hop back on the vaporetto to return to Venice.

After your trip to Murano, either relax in or near your hotel for the afternoon or just keep wandering. Venice is endlessly fascinating.

I love strolling alongside the canals, never knowing what’s around the next corner. Sometimes, I find a bustling street, at other times, nothing is moving except a cat stretching on a boat moored in the canal.

Gregg loved our visit to Murano and created several pieces inspired by glass blowing. Here’s my favorite (also featured in our collaboration Pastel & Pen: Travels in Europe):

A modern abstract painting featuring a dynamic swirl of rainbow colors, bold black lines, and soft pastel accents.
“Murano” inspired by Murano blown glass by Gregg Simpson
Attend a Concert of Italian Baroque Music

A highlight of a trip to Venice is attending a concert of Italian baroque music. Vivaldi is the hometown boy here and you shouldn’t have much trouble finding a concert featuring his Four Seasons. by Italian baroque

One concert we attended was held in a baroque church with a ceiling painted by Tiepolo.

Look online for concert schedules and purchase tickets in advance if you can. Afterwards, float out into the warm Venetian evening (depending on the time of year!) and find another small trattoria for dinner.

I attended this concert, and it was marvelous.

Powered by GetYourGuide
Get Lost in Venice After Dark

And after dinner, keep wandering. Getting lost after dark in Venice is one of Europe’s best travel experiences.

In fact, I put getting lost in Venice at the top of my list of must-do activities because first, getting lost is unavoidable (even with GPS on your phone), and second, you’ll never be lost for long.

Some of my fondest Venice memories are of strolling alongside dark canals in the evening (violent crime is very rare in Venice), not knowing if I was going in the right direction and not caring.

A close-up of a yellow directional sign with bold black text and an arrow pointing toward St. Mark's Square in Venice.
Sign pointing to San Marco in Venice

Venice is an island; you can’t fall off. With the world asleep and the crowds long gone, Venice at night is one of the most magical places on Earth.

Walk until you come to one of the ubiquitous signs pointing to San Marco or Rialto or Ferrovia (train station) and get your bearings. You could also ask someone for directions, but chances are they’re tourists and also lost.

Day 3 in Venice

Get going bright and early to take in two of the most iconic sites of Venice, again before the crowds start to gather. Here’s an overview of Day 3:

  • Tour the Duomo and the Doge’s Palace
  • Wander and get lost some more
  • Take a gondola ride after dark

Activities on Day 3 in Venice

Tour the Duomo and Doge’s Palace

Both are crowded, and both are must-sees. Get your tickets ahead of time and go early or late. Several times I’ve bypassed long lines of hot and tired tourists waiting to get into the Doge’s Palace.

Breeze past them with your pre-purchased ticket.

The sumptuous public rooms of the Doge’s Palace will show you just how powerful Venice was back in the day.

A more sobering attraction are the dungeons reached by crossing the Bridge of Sighs, so called because prisoners who crossed it got their last glimpse of the world before being shut away and usually executed. Cheerful stuff.

The iconic Bridge of Sighs illuminated in golden light against a dusky blue Venetian canal, creating a romantic and serene atmosphere.
Bridge of Sighs at night in Venice, Italy.

Leave Piazza San Marco before it gets too crowded and spend the afternoon wandering the back streets. Shop for souvenirs if you haven’t already bought your quota in Murano, relax at a sidewalk cafe in a small piazza, watch the people go by, and enjoy life.

What’s the hurry? You’re in Venice!

Take a Gondola Ride at Dusk

Yes, it’s expensive and kinda touristy but it’s also super romantic and relaxing. You’ll be taken into canals you may not have seen from the street, and if you’re lucky, you’ll hear a few gondoliers break into song.

Occasionally, I’ve seen gondola traffic jams. To avoid them (not at all romantic!), go later.

A row of traditional blue-topped gondolas moored in a Venetian lagoon during a colorful sunset, with San Giorgio Maggiore in the background.
Gondolas bobbing on the Grand Canal in Venice

At the time of writing, a daytime gondola ride costs 80 Euros for 40 minutes. After dark, the price rises to 100 euros, but in my opinion, going at night is the best.

Six people fit in a gondola so you could share, depending on who you are with and whether romance is on the cards!

Here is Gregg and me on one of two gondola rides we’ve taken during our trips to Venice. We loved every minute of it!

A couple smiling while seated in a luxurious gondola, gliding through the picturesque canals of Venice surrounded by historic architecture.

Tours of Venice

Here’s a selection of artsy sightseeing options in Venice with links to fast-track tickets.

Walking Tours of Venice with GuruWalks

How about a walking tour of Venice? GuruWalks has some good options:

Staying in Venice

Venice deserves at least three nights and preferably more so you can settle in and enjoy being a temporary Venetian. If time allows, rent an apartment and stay for a week.

My most cherished memories of Venice are the ten days I spent there a few years back while Gregg had an exhibition of his paintings in a gallery overlooking the Grand Canal.

A framed exhibition poster reading "Venezia 2015 Gregg Simpson" with colorful abstract artwork and event details for an art show on the Grand Canal.
Poster for exhibition of Gregg Simpson’s work in Venice
A wall displaying vibrant abstract paintings with bold, colorful shapes and patterns, showcased in an art gallery setting.
Paintings featured in the exhibition by Gregg Simpson

I spent hours just wandering the city, staying well clear of the heaving masses in Piazza San Marco and taking my time getting to know this most extraordinary city.

For the apartment stay, I chose a place just off the Grand Canal about a five-minute walk from the train station. The neighborhood was quiet and close to a piazza that every evening spilled over with local Venetians enjoying the air and watching their children play.

If you have the time, rent an apartment in Venice and stay for a week. Live like a local, not that you’ll see many locals these days. Venetians are moving out of the city at an alarming rate. But at least you’ll experience shopping in tiny local grocery stores and get to know your way around a neighborhood.

As mentioned earlier, consider staying in the Dorsoduro district across the Grand Canal from the Piazza San Marco. I recommend you avoid the area immediately adjacent to Piazza San Marco. Hotels there can be expensive, and the tiny streets in the area are wall-to-wall tourists during the day.

Accommodation Suggestions

Here are suggestions I’ve stayed in Venice.

San Teodoro Palace: This one-bedroom apartment is huge by Venice standards and located steps from the Rialto Bridge in a very lively and touristy area.

Ca’ Mirò: Settle into this two-floor apartment in a quiet area of Venice not far from the train station and become a temporary Venetian. It’s gorgeous.

Hotel Canaletto: We stayed there a few years ago and loved it. The rooms were small, but that’s par for the course in Venice. The location, just 200 meters from Rialto Bridge, was fantastic as was its situation on a charming side canal.

Hotel Messner is a more modest option, located in the Dorsoduro neighborhood close to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. It was quiet, and the area was peaceful and uncrowded, particularly at night.

For other options in Venice, check the map below. Resist the temptation to stay on the mainland. The savings will be minimal once you take into account train fares and your time.

Stay in the middle of Venice and enjoy this unique city.

Booking.com

Conclusion

Include Venice in your trip to Italy if at all possible. With a bit of planning and some strategic dodging, you can easily avoid the crowds and find plenty of peaceful areas to enjoy.

Venice is a city for dreaming. Give her time and she’ll reward you.

Looking to travel elsewhere in Italy? Here are some more posts to check out:

Top Ten Artsy Novels to Read in Europe

Do you enjoy reading novels set in the places you are traveling to? I know I do. I love curling up at the end of a long day of sightseeing and reading a novel that helps me revisit the places I’ve seen.

I’ve chosen my top ten novels based on two criteria. First, the novel needs to evoke a sense of the place in which it was set, and second, it needs to relate in some way to the arts. You’re sure to find some new-to-you reads to take along on your next trip, or even to stay at home with.

A captivating promotional image featuring a woman enjoying a book at a sunlit café table, set against a picturesque European street scene.

England

Entertaining Mr Pepys by Deborah Swift

Entertaining Mr Pepys is the third novel in Deborah Swift’s “Women of Pepys’ Diary” series. All three novels are worth taking along if you are spending time in London and want a fascinating glimpse of what life was like in the 1660s. Famed diarist Samuel Pepys is at the center of this and the first two novels (Pleasing Mr Pepys and A Plague on Mr Pepys), each following a different woman who knew Samuel and was mentioned in his diary. In Entertaining Mr Pepys, the actress Elizabeth (Bird) Carpenter takes center stage as she navigates the world of the theater when women were finally allowed on stage as actresses. If you enjoy impeccably researched historical novels with plenty of intrigue, then the “Women of Pepys’ Diary” series is for you.

A rich, baroque book cover featuring a historical portrait of a woman in a lavish dress, with the title and author's name elegantly styled.

The Lost Book of the Grail by Charlie Lovett

While traveling in England, plan on touring some of its awesome cathedrals (don’t miss York Minster, Salisbury Cathedral, and Durham Cathedral to name just three of my faves!) and then settle down with The Lost Book of the Grail. The setting is an ancient cathedral in the fictional town of Barchester. Flashback chapters open with succinct descriptions of cathedral areas such as cloisters, the nave, chapels, and more that I found fascinating. Through a series of clever flashbacks, you navigate the history of the cathedral from its founding by a martyred saint through the Norman invasion, Reformation, Civil War, Victorian era, World War II, and modern times. The plot’s twists and turns provide enough mystery to make the denouement both surprising and satisfying.

A vibrant cover showcasing a golden chalice with a church steeple in the background, representing a journey through history and literature.

France

Drawing Lessons by Patricia Sands

Are you taking a trip to Provence? Then pack or download a copy of Drawing Lessons, a delicious novel set in Arles that follows a woman’s quest to redefine herself after the death of her husband. Patricia Sands evokes the sensuous delights of Provence so beautifully that you’ll feel like you are there. And if, indeed, you are there, you’ll have the sights and smells that surround you confirmed in the story.

A bright and artistic book cover adorned with watercolor florals and paintbrushes surrounding the title, suggesting creativity and inspiration.

The Paris Hours by Alex George

This is the novel to read when you’re spending time in Paris. The Paris Hours tells the stories of four “ordinary” people during one day in Paris in 1927. Along the way, they encounter an extraordinary panoply of luminaries including Hemingway, Proust, Picasso, Gertrude Stein, Ravel, Josephine Baker, and even Sylvia Beach, the proprietor of Paris’s most famous English bookstore, Shakespeare & Company. Alex George brings the ambience, and the people, of Paris to life as he takes readers through streets and parks they can still walk through today. Surprises and twists abound in one of the most cleverly plotted and exquisitely written novels I’ve read in a long while.

A misty blue book cover with an early 20th-century Parisian café scene, featuring characters sitting in vintage chairs, blending intrigue and nostalgia.

Germany

And After the Fire by Lauren Belfer

I am a huge fan of the music of Johann Sebastian Bach (check out my visit to the Bach Museum in Leipzig) and so And After the Fire was the novel for me. It tells the fascinating story of a lost Bach manuscript with a disturbing message. The story spans over two hundred years, from Berlin in the 18th century through the Holocaust to New York in contemporary times. Inspired by historical events, the compelling narrative of this deeply researched and evocative novel resonates with emotion and immediacy.

A soft, moody book cover with a woman in historical attire, resting her head on her hand, evoking themes of music and history, with the title set on an elegant background.

Chasing the Wind by C. C. Humphreys

Heading for Berlin? Take along Chasing the Wind, a rollicking good adventure that mixes a Bruegel masterpiece, a female aviator, espionage, and the 1936 Berlin Olympics. It’s a page-turner, so make sure you’ve finished your sightseeing for the day before reading it, else you may decide to stay in your hotel room and read rather than go out to sample Berlin’s many museums (check out Booming Berlin: Your Artsy Guide for suggestions about what to do during a three-day visit to Berlin).

A dramatic book cover featuring a young woman with determination in her eyes, set against a vintage aircraft and a glowing, suspenseful atmosphere.

Italy

Raphael, Painter in Rome by Stephanie Storey

No trip to Rome is complete without experiencing the art of Raphael, Michelangelo and da Vinci. And the perfect novel to accompany you is Raphael, Painter in Rome  by Stephanie Storey, and her other novel Oil and Marble. Both chronicle the lives of three of the most renowned artists in western Europe: Raphael in Raphael, Painter in Rome and Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci in Oil and Marble. Even in the 21st century, there are parts of old Rome in which only a small leap of the imagination is needed to be transported back to the Renaissance when intrigue lurked around every corner and the smell of oil paint was heavy in the air. Raphael. Painter in Rome takes you deep into the heart of a Rome that may be long gone but still lingers in the imagination after dark.

A vibrant book cover showcasing a classical Renaissance painting of cherubs and mythological figures, encapsulating the artistic brilliance of Raphael.

Netherlands

Girl with a Pearl Earring by Tracy Chevalier

One of the things I love about touring the Netherlands is how the light often reminds me of an Old Master painting. One of the most famous is Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring. So, the perfect read for fans of his work is the novel of the same name by Tracy Chevalier. Set in 17th-century Delft, Girl with a Pearl Earring is a richly-imagined portrait of the young woman who inspired the painting. I love how Chevalier seamlessly merges history and fiction in this and many of her other novels set in Europe, including The Lady and the Unicorn (14th-century France), Burning Bright (late 18th-century London), Falling Angels (early 20th-century London), A Single Thread (1930s England), and Remarkable Creatures (early 19th-century England).

A striking book cover featuring Johannes Vermeer's iconic painting of a young woman with a pearl earring, set against a black background, with the title and author's name in bold.

Spain

The Return by Victoria Hislop

I picked up a copy of The Return in a second-hand bookstore while wandering the back streets of Antibes seeking shade at the height of the 2019 heat wave (la canicule, as the French called it). It was the perfect novel to read while traveling west into Spain. It takes place both in the present and during the Spanish Civil War, a time in history about which I knew very little.  The story of a flamenco guitar player (a tocadores) and a flamenco dancer (a bailaora) who fall in love in 1930s Granada and are separated during the terrible excesses of the Spanish Civil War will stay with you long after you leave Spain.  

A beige and colorful book cover featuring intricate tile designs, reminiscent of Spanish architecture, with the title "The Return" and the author "Victoria Hislop" prominently displayed.

The Miramonde Trilogy by Amy Maroney

For a book lover, few things are more enchanting than enjoying a novel and then discovering that it’s the first in a trilogy. I had that experience after reading The Girl from Oto, the first offering in Amy Maroney’s trilogy about a female artist in Renaissance Spain, the other two novels being Mira’s Way and A Place in the World. I read all three not long after I traveled through the Pyrenees where much of the story takes place. Amy Maroney brings the region to life wonderfully—its wildlife and independent mountain people, the sweeping landscapes and harsh weather, and the turbulent history during the time when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella were on the throne.

A captivating book cover for "The Girl from Oto" by Amy Maroney, featuring a dramatic mountain landscape under a twilight sky with bold white text and a golden shell icon, hinting at historical mystery and intrigue.

What’s your favorite artsy novel set in Europe? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

statue of Michelangelo's David

Amazing Artsy Sightseeing Choices in Italy for the Independent Traveler

Where to begin when it comes to artsy sightseeing in Italy? Italy feels at times like one giant art gallery! There’s so much to see that even after numerous trips, I know I have many more wonders in store for me on future trips.

In this post I’ve described some of my favorites in eight historical periods: Greek, Etruscan, Roman, Byzantine, Medieval, Renaissance, Baroque, and 20th Century.

Read about my artsy sightseeing highlights and then follow links to more detailed recommendations. Seriously, you could very easily spend years in Italy and not run out of art to admire.

Pinterest graphic with the text Artsy Sightseeing in Italy. Above the text is a picture of the skyline of Siena in Tuscany. Below the text is a picture of the Rialto Bridge in Venice.

Map of Italy: Suggested Artsy Sightseeing Choices

The map below shows the locations of the artsy sightseeing options mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.

Greek Ruins

Three of the best preserved Greek temples in the world are located in Italy!

Ever since I first saw pictures of the magnificent Doric temples at Paestum (#1) in southern Italy, I’ve wanted to visit them–and finally I have!

The ruins are well worth the effort to get to them. Pictures give some idea of the beauty of the temples, but they cannot give a sense of the sheer size and splendor of the columns.

The temples are thought to be dedicated to the city’s namesake Poseidon (known to the Romans as Neptune), Hera and Ceres. The oldest temple dedicated to Hera dates from 550 BC.

Here are some options for touring Paestum with GetYourGuide.

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Staying In Paestum

If you have a car, stay at the Savoy Beach Hotel. It’s on the Mediterranean and includes a beach club with loungers and people to bring you drinks! The hotel is luxurious, but the price is surprisingly reasonable.

Etruscan Art

I’ve grown very fond of Etruscan art. It’s different from Roman art in that it’s less monumental and more personal.

The Etruscans pre-date the Romans and were based around Florence and throughout Tuscany as far south as Tarquinia, about 50 kilometers north of Rome. The Etruscans were a fascinating society in which women held much more power than they did in Roman society.

I mention Volterra in the section on Tuscany. The Etruscan Guarnacci Museum is the place to see Etruscan artifacts.

Here are two other great options for enjoying Etruscan art while artsy sightseeing in Italy.

Tarquinia

All around Tarquinia are the ruins of Etruscan tombs, many with fabulous paintings. Visit the Necropolis of Tarquinia (#2) to see some of the most famous paintings including the Tomb of the Leopards which dates from 473 BC. The colors are remarkably well preserved.

Fresco in the Etruscan tomb of the Leopards in Tarquinia, Italy; great artsy sighteeing location
Tomb of the Leopards in Tarquinia

Visit the museum in Tarquinia to see more Etruscan art. Fascinating.

National Etruscan Museum in Rome

We loved this place! The Museo Nazionale Etrusco (#3), housed in the lovely Villa Giulia, was virtually empty when we were there, which was a treat after visiting other museums in Rome. We wandered happily through room after room of Etruscan treasures including the famous Sarcophagus of the Spouses from the late 6th century BC.

Although we didn’t find the museum crowded, play it safe – skip the line and buy your tickets online.

Sculpture of a married couple in the Etruscan Museum in Rome; the musuem is high on my list of artsy sightseeing options in Italy
One of the most famous sculptures in the Museo Nationale Etrusco – skip the line to buy tickets

I also enjoyed the urns and household goods, even little statues of animals. The Etruscan style is very modern-looking.

Ancient Roman

In addition to visiting the Roman sites in Rome and Pompeii, you don’t need to go far to find Roman ruins in Italy. Here are a few artsy sightseeing suggestions related to Roman art and architecture.

Hadrian’s Villa

Hadrian’s Villa (#4) is a massive archeological complex near Tivoli outside Rome. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the site is a must-see for fans of ancient Rome.

Be prepared to walk–the complex is vast, containing over 30 buildings and covering 250 acres, making it larger than the city of Pompeii. Stroll past the remains of fountains, pools, and gardens surrounding what must have been one heck of a pleasure palace back in the day.

View of columns at Hadrian's villa in Italy--a highlight of artsy sightseeing in Italy
Hadrian’s Villa in Italy

Hadrian constructed the villa as a retreat from the tough work of emperor-ing during the second and third decades of the 2nd century AD. We first discovered the villa on our family trip to Italy in 1994. Since then, much more of the site has been excavated with more ruins yet to be uncovered.

TIP: A good strategy is to visit Hadrian’s Villa (also called Villa Adriana) and the Renaissance Villa d’Este on a day tour. Here’s an option.

Ostia Antica

Rome’s original seaport is 30 minutes from Rome by train. Ostia Antica (#5) is like a mini Pompeii but without all the tourists. If you’re not planning to go south, take an afternoon from your Roman sightseeing to check out the atmospheric ruins at Ostia Antica.

You’ll find a well-preserved Roman theatre, the Baths of Neptune, remains of the military camp, temples to ancient deities, the forum and even Ostia Synagogue, the oldest known synagogue site in Europe.

Baths of Caracalla

This complex of ancient public baths close to Rome is worth a visit. Several towering walls remain along with impressive black and white mosaics. Descend below ground to view the well-preserved tunnels where slaves worked to keep the baths operating and the water hot.

Buy tickets for the Baths of Caracalla (#6).

Archeological Museum of Naples

This museum is a relevation–and one of the best museums showcasing Roman-era art that I’ve every visited. The Archeological Museum of Naples contains much of the art–paintings, frescoes, objects, mosaics–recovered from Pompeii.

If you’re pressed for time and trying to decide whether to visit the Pompeii ruins or the archeological museum, my vote is the archeological museum. The ruins may be far more popular (and very crowded), but to get a comprehensive view of what life was like in Pompeii, the museum has it all.

Read my detailed post about the Archeological Museum of Naples (#7): How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.

Staying in Rome

Here are two great options for staying in Rome:

  • Sant-Angelo Apartments: located deep in the Jewish Ghetto, you’re within steps of most of the major sites in ancient Rome.
  • Viam 6B located near the Spanish Steps and the Piazza del Popolo, this very stylish apartment is staffed, with some units including a lovely outdoor terrace.

Early Christian and Byzantine Art

Ravenna (#8) is the place in Italy to see the best Byzantine and early Christian mosaics. I wasn’t prepared for how incredibly new the mosaics looked. Despite dating from 400 to 600 AD, they looked like they were created yesterday.

I was taken with how the figures were depicted. Large eyes stare right at you, flowing robes glint with gold, the figures look like they could step from their perches on the walls high above you and join you for a glass of wine.

Be warned that many of the fabulous mosaics are located high up which means after a day of touring the UNESCO sites, you come away with a stiff neck.

It’s worth it! Artsy sightseeing doesn’t get much better than visiting the mosaics in Ravenna.

Gold mosaic showing a religious scene in Ravenna, Italy; Ravenna's mosaics are a must-do for the artsy sightseer
Sumptuous mosaic in Ravenna, Italy

Here are some options for touring Ravenna with Get Your Guide.

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Staying in Ravenna

If you’re driving, avoid the narrow Ravenna streets and stay a little ways outside the city. The Grand Hotel Mattei is a modern and comfy choice.

Medieval Era

If you’re an artsy traveler with a love of the medieval, you just need to look out the window in Italy. Okay, that’s not quite true, but if you stay in any hill town, you’ll be surrounded by buildings that date from the 1300s, if not earlier.

These are some of my favorite medieval artworks I seek out when sightseeing in Italy.

  • Frescoes by Ambrogio Lorenzetti and Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico (#9) in Siena
  • The Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna in the museum at the Siena Cathedral (#10)
  • “The Annunciation” by Simone Martini in the Uffizi (#11) in Florence
  • Frescoes by Giotto in the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi (#12)
  • Frescoes by Giotto at the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua (#13)
  • Frescoes by Memmo di Filippuccio in the Camera del Podestà in the Palazzo Comunale in San Gimignano (#14) showing domestic scenes including a couple taking a bath and getting into bed

For more details about seeing medieval art in Italy, read Ten Must-See Masterpieces in Tuscany.

San Gimignano 1300

And before I leave medieval art, I must put in a plug for San Gimignano 1300 (#15). This scale model of what San Gimignano looked like in 1300 is located near the Palazzo Comunale and the Torre Grosso in the center of San Gimignano. The display is free and well worth seeing to give you an idea of how the city of towers looked with 72 towers instead of its current 17.

And while you’re there, pick up a copy of The Towers of Tuscany.

At San Gimignano 1300 with a copy of The Towers of Tuscany and the museum director
At San Gimignano 1300 with a copy of The Towers of Tuscany and the museum director

Here are some options for touring San Gimignano and the area with Get Your Guide.

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Staying in San Gimignano

My favorite place (perfect if you have a car) is the Hotel Pescille on the outskirts of San Gimignano and overlooking the towers. The Cappuccina Country Resort also overlooking the city is another good choice.

Renaissance Era

The Renaissance was born in Florence with an explosion of amazing art by artists such as Michelangelo, Botticelli, and Leonardo da Vinci. You’ll see a fair whack of the best stuff at the Uffizi.

TIP: If you go to the Uffizi, you must buy your tickets ahead of time, preferably a few days or weeks before you arrive, especially if traveling in peak season. Here’s a link to buy your tickets to the Uffizi and skip the line.

Here are some of my favorite Renaissance pieces (it’s just a partial list–I could go on and on!):

  • Primavera and Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli in the Uffizi in Florence
  • David statue by Michelangelo at the Academia (#16) in Florence
  • David statue by Donatello at the Bargello (#17) museum in Florence
  • Expulsion from the Garden of Eden by Masaccio at the Brancacci chapel (#18) in Florence
  • The Medici chapels in Florence
  • Sistine Chapel frescoes by Michelangelo at the Vatican (#19) in Rome
  • Paintings by Sofonisba Anguissola, one of the few female painters from the period, in Siena and at the Uffizi in Florence.

For more artsy sightseeing in Florence, here are suggested tours and skip-the-line ticket options.

Staying in Florence

I highly recommend the Serristori Palace Residence. It’s right on the Arno River and slightly off the beaten track.

Baroque Era

Of all the art periods, the Baroque (roughly the 17th century) is my least favorite. I find the style too florid. However, the Baroque style is everywhere in Italy, from churches to museums. You can’t escape it.

Big names in Baroque art include Caravaggio, Tiepolo, Titian, Bernini, and Artemisia Gentileschi. Although Baroque art isn’t my cup of tea, I do love Artemisia’s work.

You can see her masterpiece, Judith Slaying Holofernes, completed in 1610, in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.

Modern Art in Italy

Italy has produced several noted modern artists including Giacometti, Modigliani, and Futurists such as Severini, Marinetti, and Balla. Following are three places to see wonderful modern art in Italy (and again, there are many more).

Peggy Guggenheim Museum

Located right smack on the Grand Canal in the Dorsoduro district of magical Venice between Santa Maria della Salute and the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Museum (#20) just makes me smile. I can’t visit it often enough!

The museum houses Peggy Guggenheim’s personal collection of 20th- century art including masterpieces of cubism, surrealism and abstract expressionism. Artists in the permanent collection include Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian. It is an embarrassment of 20th-century riches.

If you’re in Venice, take a break from the Renaissance and cross the canal to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Wander the cool halls of her renovated palazzo to view the paintings and sculptures and then descend the steps to the edge of the canal and watch the boats go by. 

I include the Peggy Guggenheim museum in my post about the Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe. Buy advance tickets (recommended in peak season) here.

National Museum of Modern Art in Rome

Also included in Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe is Rome’s National Museum of Modern Art (Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (#21). The museum is conveniently located on the edge of the Villa Borghese so you can see it before or after you visit the Galleria Borghese

Read my description in Ten Great Ways to Enjoy Bella Roma.

The museum features an excellent collection of 20th-century Italian painters including Giorgio de Chirico, Amedeo Modigliani, Antonio Canova, Giacomo Balla, and Giorgio Morandi, along with works by Rodin, Degas, van Gogh, Monet, Duchamp, Man Ray, and Pollock.

Unlike the Vatican and the other Renaissance and Ancient Roman attractions of Rome, the museum is sparsely attended and, therefore, extremely pleasant.

Tarot Garden: Sculptures by Niki de Saint Phalle

Located near the coast in the province of Grosseto in Tuscany, the Tarot Garden (Il Giardino dei Tarocchi – #21) is a collection of sculptures created by the French artist Niki de Saint Phalle.

If you’re traveling through Italy by car, carve out time to visit this wonderful place. For a great, although long, day trip from Rome, catch the train from Rome Termini to Orbetello Stazione (about 90 minutes) and from there take a taxi or a bus.

For a detailed description of how to get from Rome to Il Giardino dei Tarocchi, check out this post on The Spotted Cloth website.

Pictures of Il Giardino dei Tarocchi don’t do the sculptures justice. If you love quirky, whimsical modern art, you have to go and see the sculptures for yourself. You can walk around them, touch them, even go inside some of them.

Carol Cram in Il Giardino dei Tarocchi, a highlight of any artsy sightseeing trip to Italy.
Sitting on a sculpture at the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi 

Il Giardino dei Tarocchi is far enough off the beaten path to be uncrowded and totally delightful.

The garden is open every afternoon from 2:30 pm to 7:30 pm from April 1 to October 15. In November, December, January and March, the garden is open on the first Saturday of the month from 9 am to 1 pm. If the Saturday falls on a public holiday, the park opens the following Saturday.

Sculpture of lovers in the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi
Sculpture of lovers in the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi
Quirky foundation in the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi
Quirky foundation in the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi

Check the website for more information and directions.

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in Italy.

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Conclusion

Have you visited any of the places described in this post? If so, let other artsy travelers know what you think.

Here are some more posts on Italy to help you plan your next trip–or just to indulge in some armchair travel.

Favorite Regions in Italy for the Artsy Traveler

My favorite regions in Italy range from Milan and the Dolomites in the north to Naples in the south. Unless you have several months to spare, you can’t really “do” all of Italy in one trip.

You’ll spend far too much time traveling and far too little time enjoying. Pick one or two regions and spent a week or two in each.

As Rick Steves says, “travel like you plan to return.”

Pinterst graphic with the text Favorite Regions in Itlay for the Artsy Traveler over two pictures. The top picture is of Milan Cathedral and the bottom picture is of the Grand Canal in Venice.

Map of Favorite Regions in Italy

The map below shows approximate locations of the main regions in Italy that I recommend you explore. I’ve visited all of them except for Sicily (coming soon!).

Map of Italy showing major tourist areas including Rome, Tuscany, and Venice

I’m going to start in the north and move south because we often drive to Italy, so that’s the direction we enter the country from.

Here are the five regions of Italy I suggest you explore:

  • Northern Italy: Turin, Lake Como, Milan, Dolomites
  • Venice and Ravenna
  • Tuscany and Umbria
  • Rome
  • Compania: Naples, Pompeii, Amalfi Coast

In this post, I give a brief overview of these areas and provide links to more in-depth posts.

Northern Italy

You could spend at least a week traveling through the regions of northern Italy.

Milan Cathedral at sunset
Milan Cathedral

From east to west, I recommend Turin, Lake Como, Milan, and the Dolomites. Spend at least a week in the north (not counting Venice which deserves at least three days on its own). You won’t run out of things to do!

Highlights of Northern Italy

Here are some of my favorite artsy highlights (a by no means an exhaustive list) in northern Italy:

  • Turin: The Egyptian Museum – Museo Egizio is first-rate. It houses one of the oldest collections of Ancient Egyptian artifacts in the world. Even if you’re only moderately interested in ancient Egypt, put it on your list.
  • Milan: The Duomo, Da Vinci’s Last Supper, and La Scala just for starters. There’s lots to see in Milan and it has a very different vibe (calmer in my opinion) than Rome.
  • Italian Lake District: Spend several days exploring small towns such as Sirmione on Lake Garda, the various lakes; gorgeous views, great food, lots of history.
  • The Dolomites: Drive as far up as you can and then take a chairlift or gondola even higher. The alpine culture is very different from the rest of Italy.
  • Bolzano: The South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology

For more details about these and other artsy sightseeing in northern Italy, check out Recommended Places to Travel in Northern Italy.

Venice

Don’t stint on the time you allocate to visiting Venice. The city is worth at least three days (preferably longer). You could choose to spend a week in the area–three or four nights in Venice, a night in the Veneto to visit Vicenza and Padua, and then head south to spend two nights in glorious Ravenna (more on Ravenna in a minute).

Rialto Bridge
Rialto bridge in stunning Venice

You don’t need a car in Venice and you can reach the other towns in the area by train.

Highlights of Venice

  • Peggy Guggenheim Museum – one of my very favorite small modern art museums in Europe (read more in 12 Modern Art Museums in Europe.
  • Piazza San Marco late at night when the crowds have thinned
  • Accademia Gallery – great selection of Renaissance and Baroque artists in a lovely, old building
  • Island of Murano to watch glass-blowing and buy glass souvenirs
  • Duomo and Doge’s Palace: must-see attractions, but go early or late and get reservations to avoid crowds
  • Enjoying a Vivaldi concert and getting lost in the dark on the way back to your hotel

For more details about these and other sightseeing options and to plan your trip to Venice, read Venice in Three Days for the Artsy Traveler.

Ravenna

Ravenna is a delightful small city south of Venice, most famous for the mosaics in the eight Christian monuments on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

While many of these sites, particularly the most famous mosaics in the Church of San Vitale, attract the tour busses, the rest of Ravenna is wonderfully non-touristy. Relax in the main square and watch the world go by. Ravenna has a subtle charm that made me want to write a novel set there just so I could go and stay for a good long while.

Piazza del Popolo in the evening, Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Piazza del Popolo in the evening, Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

While we were in Ravenna, we watched a bride and groom emerge from a church and get into a red Ferrari, stopped into an art opening and drank white wine with the two Italian artists who were exhibiting their paintings, and enjoyed one of the best meals we’ve ever had in Italy at Ristorante Alexander. Check out the website and make a reservation! The food was to die for and the prices very reasonable.

TIP: When dining in Italy, make use of review apps and websites to find good restaurants. Every time we’ve taken the time to search out well-rated restaurants and to make reservations, we’ve been amply rewarded by fabulous meals.

Highlights of Ravenna: Touring the UNESCO World Heritage Sites

The mosaics in the early Christian monuments are the big draw in Ravenna, as noted earlier.

TIP: Buy your combination ticket for the six UNESCO sites in central Ravenna at any of these locations: the Basilica San Vitale, Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, Neonian Baptistery, and the Archbishop’s Chapel.

The sixth site–the Arian Baptistery–is free and worth a visit to view the well-preserved domed mosaic, dating from the early 6th century AD, that shows Christ being baptized by John the Baptist.

At just €9.50 for entrance to all these sites, the Ravenna Mosaics combo ticket has to be one of Europe’s best artsy bargains. In addition to the six sites in central Ravenna, don’t miss the remaining two UNESCO sites. The mausoleum of Theodoric is a short walk from the town center, and the Church of Sant’Apollinare in Classe is an 8-kilometer drive towards the Adriatic coast.

Mosaic in Ravenna featuring the Empress Theodora
Mosaic in Ravenna featuring the Empress Theodora

Staying in Ravenna

We were driving when we visited Ravenna, and so, as usual, we stayed in a hotel on the outskirts. We then took taxis into the city and from there walked to seven of the eight UNESCO sites in the center of Ravenna. On our last morning in Ravenna, we drove to the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe.

For my hotel recommendations in Ravenna, read Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Tuscany and Umbria

Toscana! The very name evokes warmth and good living and beauty while at the same time associated with a deliciously turbulent history.

All those towers and walls and fortifications in towns such as San Gimignano and Siena and Lucca were not built back in the Middle Ages because life was easy. The architecture of Tuscan hill towns screams strife.

Fortress of Montalcino in Tuscany
The Fortress of Montalcino, a hill town in Tuscany

At the same time, the museums and churches of Tuscany burst at the seams with art–much of it created between 1300 and 1600, from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance.

We’ve been visiting Tuscany for years and plan to return. We’ve only recently “discovered” Umbria and were taken with its less touristy, more authentic atmosphere. While I love Tuscany, it can get overrun with visitors, particularly in Florence.

TIP: I recommend allocating at least a week to exploring Tuscany and another week for Umbria. Spend a few days in Florence to see the highlights and then if you have a car, find a house or an agriturismo property to rent for several days or a week in or near one of the medieval towns in Tuscany. Take day trips to other towns, bearing in mind that driving in Tuscany can be slow going on the twisty, narrow roads.

In a typical week, reserve a few days for just staying put and enjoying bella Toscana.

If you don’t have a car, you can still stay in the country, but choose a place that provides some assistance with transportation. You can join local tours such as wine tours (highly recommended!). Some properties offer cooking classes and painting classes.

After your week in Tuscany, spend a week in Umbria. The areas around Perugia or Assisi are good choices.

You won’t run out of things to see. I guarantee it!

For plenty of recommendations and suggestions, read Exploring Tuscany, Umbria and La Dolce Vita and Exploring San Gimignano in Tuscany. Also check out Art Masterpieces in Tuscany Who Don’t Want to Miss.

Rome

The Eternal City takes hold of your psyche with the weight of its 2,000-plus-year history and the central role it has played in the development of western culture.

Rome will not be denied.

Piazza Navona in Rome
Piazza Navona in Rome in the morning

I’ve visited Rome several times since my first trip there with my parents in 1974. During our most recent trip, Gregg and I spent ten days enjoying the city during Gregg’s exhibition of his paintings at a gallery near the Vatican. We lived like locals in an apartment in the same area and set aside time every day to explore new areas of Rome.

Read my Rome recommendations and a suggested itinerary for a three-day visit in The Best of Rome in Three Days.

Here are additional suggestions for what to see in Rome, including tours.

Naples and the Compania

Naples is kind of crazy–or at least it was when I visited a few years ago. We keep meaning to get down there again to see how or if it’s changed. I rather hoped it hasn’t.

I have a vivid memory of being driven in a taxi through downtown Naples and noticing how the driver barely slowed down at stop signs caked with dirt. Apparently, obeying them was optional. The driver pulled up in front of the National Archeological Museum in Naples, reputed to be one of the best museums in Italy for Roman antiquities. He then turned around and announced chiuso. Closed.

Oh. Those were the days before the Internet took the guesswork out of travel planning. Our only day in Naples was also the only day of the week when the museum was always closed.

That mistake wouldn’t happen nowadays which is a good thing although sometimes I miss the serendipity of the “olden” days when plans could so easily be derailed.

View of the Bay of Naples, the city of Naples, and Vesuvius in the distance
View of the Bay of Naples, the city of Naples, and Vesuvius in the distance

Read my recommendations and a suggested itinerary for a Week in the Campania.

Conclusion

I have a lot of posts on Italy for you to explore. Here again are some of the ones I’ve already mentioned along with a few more.

Italian flag next to a small blackboard with the word "italy" on it

Why do I Love Italy?

Let me count the ways!

First, the landscape is varied and stunning. From the rolling hills of Tuscany to the rugged cliffs of the Amalfi coast and the dreamy canals of Venice, Italy has so much to offer travelers. We are constantly discovering new regions to explore. Our latest favorite is Umbria after spending two weeks there in 2018 during an exhibition of Gregg’s paintings in the charming town of Galdo Tardino.

Pinterest graphic with the text Why I Love Italy over an Italian flag.

When I’m not admiring the landscape of Italy, I’m immersed in its history. Between the Etruscans and the Romans, Italy is brimming with ancient sites. Every town and village traces its roots to at least Roman times and all have a central medieval core. The Middle Ages is my preferred historical period, and Italy brings both the medieval and the Renaissance periods to life every day, sometimes literally.

Stunning Umbrian landscape

I don’t think I’ve ever visited Italy and not seen people dressed in medieval garb at one of the many festivals and demonstrations of medieval life.

Costumed reveler at the Venice Carnival
Costumed reveler at the Venice Carnival

Food is another big draw in Italy. Tuck into steaming plates of pasta swimming in amazing sauces, eat your plate-sized paper-thin pizza with a knife and fork like the locals do, enjoy exquisitely prepared main courses, and finish off with desserts to die for. Italy is a gastronomic paradise.

And finally, there’s the art. From the Etruscans to the moderns, art is everywhere in Italy. Some of the most beautiful artworks in the western world were created in Italy and are still there to be admired, which is excellent news for the Artsy Traveler.

For more about what to see in Italy art-wise, check out these posts:

Also, take a look at posts for individual regions:

Here is one of my favorite artworks in Itlay, the fresco featuring the Empress Theodora in Ravenna.

 Stunning Byzantine art in Ravenna of Empress Theodora and her serving maids
Stunning Byzantine art in Ravenna

Novels Set in Italy Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

So many authors (including myself!) have set novels in Italy–and no wonder! With its rich history, gorgeous landscape, and fascinating cultures, Italy never fails to be inspiring.

In this post, I feature a selection of novels that are not only set in Italy, but also relate in some way to the arts.

A promotional image combining several book covers, framed with a red background and text highlighting "12 Compelling Novels Set in Italy," complemented by the Italian flag at the bottom.

The Night Portrait by Laura Morelli

A thrilling dual-time historical novel set in 1492 and World War II about the creation of one of da Vinci’s most famous paintings.

The book cover for The Night Portrait by Laura Morelli features a woman with blonde hair wearing a blue beret and coat, her back turned to the viewer. Below, sepia-toned images depict historical scenes, including soldiers, artwork, and a portrait, reflecting themes of World War II and Renaissance Italy. The title appears in large white letters, with the subtitle "A Novel of World War II and Da Vinci's Italy" in a blue circular badge.

Blood Water Paint by Joy McCullough

Artemisia Gentileschi was one of the most talented painters of the Baroque era and one of the most famous female painters of all time. Her story is riveting.

A bold and artistic cover with rich, textured brushstrokes blending shades of blue, gold, and red, evoking the themes of art and emotion.

The Art of Traveling Strangers by Zoe Disigny

One woman’s journey of self-discovery and personal empowerment inspired by the great art masterpieces of Milan, Venice, Ravenna, Florence, Siena, Rome, and Paris.

A vibrant and colorful cover resembling a vintage travel poster, featuring illustrations of Italian landmarks and a stylish woman in a hat and sunglasses.

The Towers of Tuscany by Carol M. Cram

Set in 14th-century San Gimignano and Siena, the novel follows the journey of a woman painter who risks everything to do what she loves.

The cover showcases a striking image of a medieval Tuscan town with its prominent towers, overlaid by a woman's contemplative face in soft, muted tones.

Vivaldi’s Virgins by Barbara Quick

A fascinating glimpse inside the source of Vivaldi’s musical legacy, combined with the captivating story of an exceptional young woman’s coming of age in a deliciously reminiscent place and time.

A serene cover depicting a young woman in period attire holding a flute, set against a backdrop of Venice with its famous waterways and historical architecture.

Oil and Marble by Stephanie Storey

Stephanie Storey brings early 16th-century Florence alive, entering with extraordinary empathy into the minds and souls of two Renaissance masters–Michelangelo and da Vinci to create a stunning art history thriller. 

Featuring a warm, textured background with ornate architectural details of Renaissance Italy, this cover sets an artistic tone with the title prominently displayed in white serif font.

The Wedding Shroud by Elisabeth Storrs

The first in the richly-imagined Tales of Ancient Rome trilogy set in the time of the Etruscans.

The cover depicts a woman in a dramatic red dress, her back turned to the viewer as she faces a dark background, suggesting intrigue and romance.

Lady in Ermine by Donna DiGiuseppe

An historical biographical novel that tells the fascinating story of Renaissance artist Sofonisba Anguissola.

The cover shows a Renaissance-style portrait of a young woman with a subtle, reserved smile, wearing a black dress with a white collar, set against a dark backdrop.

The Most Beautiful Woman in Florence by Alyssa Palombo

A lush and sensual interpretation of Medici Florence, artist Sandro Botticelli, and the muse that inspired them all.

A book cover featuring a woman with long, flowing auburn hair gazing downward, set against a pink and orange background of Florence's skyline with its iconic Duomo.

Juliet by Anne Fortier

A young American woman discovers that her family’s origins reach all the way back to literature’s greatest star-crossed lovers.

A book cover featuring a dramatic red rose in close-up with a historical Italian cityscape in the background. The title, "Juliet," is elegantly displayed at the top, evoking themes of romance and mystery.

The Serpent of Venice by Christopher Moore

A gleeful mashup of Shakespeare’s The Merchant of Venice and Othello: Greed, revenge, deception, lust, and a giant (but lovable) sea monster combine to create another hilarious and bawdy tale from modern comic genius, Christopher Moore.

A vibrant blue book cover showcasing a whimsical gondola scene with a masked character standing against a moonlit background. The title, "The Serpent of Venice," is written in bold, stylized font.

Midnight at the Tuscany Hotel by James Markert

A story of memories lost and found that explores the mysteries of the mind, the truth behind lore, and the miracle of inspiration.

A colorful book cover featuring a mosaic-style design with the title "Midnight at the Tuscany Hotel" in bold red and yellow letters. A small clock is incorporated within the title, set against a background reminiscent of Italian tilework.

Have you read a novel set in Italy, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts to enjoy as you plan your adventures in Italy: