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Exploring the Algarve & Alentejo

January 28, 2020November 15, 2024Destinations, Portugal Artsy Traveler 2 Comments

Last updated on November 15th, 2024 at 12:31 am

The Algarve gets a lot of attention as a primo travel destination, and it’s worth a visit, but for my money, the Alentejo region is more interesting from an artsy perspective.

I recommend you include both regions in your Portugal itinerary.

Visit the Algarve to explore spectacular scenery and bask on some of Europe’s best beaches.

In the Alentejo, experience the “Tuscany of Portugal” — hill towns, ancient megaliths, and amazing food.

Map of Portugal

Check the map below to get your bearings when planning your trip to the Algarve and Alentejo.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

Algarve

The Algarve—holiday central—stretches along the southern coast of Portugal from the Spanish border in the east to the Atlantic Ocean in the west.

If spectacular scenery and sun ‘n fun are your thing, then include two or three days in your itinerary for chillin’ on a beach in the Algarve.

I suggest dropping in to Tavira (#1) in the east and then scooting along the highway to the western Algarve (or the other way around). I’ve spent more time in the western Algarve than the eastern, because the scenery is more gorgeous the farther west you go.

Eastern Algarve

The charming town of Tavira is worth a stop during your exploration of the Algarve. The town straddles the Gilão River and is close to long, sandy beaches and salt pans that attract flamingos, spoonbills, and other wading birds.

The Roman bridge makes for a great photo op, and the cathedral is worth popping into. Although a holiday town, Tavira feels much calmer and laid-back than other parts of the Algarve.

Roman Bridge spanning the river at Tavira in the eastern Algarve — View of Tavira in the eastern Algarve

Western Algarve

The western Algarve from the town of Lagos (#2) to the southwest tip of Portugal at Sagres is the least touristy and least crowded part of the Algarve. That said, it doesn’t feel particularly Portuguese. I think we were in the area for two days before we heard anyone speaking a language other than English, Dutch or German.

The big attraction in the Western Algarve is the scenery—rugged red rocks, secret coves, sea caves, and aqua ocean stretching south to Africa. We visited in July, and the weather was perfect, with a breeze always cooling us off.

Rocks and ocean near Lagos in southern Portugal — Beach near Lagos – Algarve region in Portugal

Luz

Find a town west of Lagos to settle into. We chose Luz (#3), a pretty town with a sandy beach, an attractive boardwalk, and a few good restaurants. The town also has a couple of British pubs, a sweet little church, and fabulously rugged cliffs.

You won’t find a whole heck of a lot to do in Luz apart from going for walks and lying on the beach or by the pool. But that’s why you visit, so take a break from sightseeing and lather on the sunscreen.

The Aparthotel Villa Luz, about a ten-minute walk along the cliff top from Luz, is a good choice—a spacious, breezy holiday apartment complex with a bar, a pool, and good breakfasts.

Lagos

Make time on one of your ‘relaxing’ days for a boat trip to see the incredible cliffs that have made the Algarve famous.

Several options are available—from large cruisers to teeny runabouts. We went for the teeny runabout.

Along with a couple from San Diego, we clambered into a small boat steered by a guide who was full of jokes and good humor. Once out of Lagos Harbor, he swung the boat to the right and headed for the cliffs.

The area buzzed with tour boats but didn’t feel crowded. Because we were in a small boat, we were able to enter many of the caves carved into the porous red rocks. The jade green water inside the caves is crystal clear and heavenly.

Gregg Simpson on a boat tour near Lagos in southern Portugal — Gregg enjoying the cliffs and caves on a boat trip near Lagos

Ask at your hotel about local boat tours, check brochures, and look online for options. I recommend going with a small boat so that you can venture into the caves. We enjoyed every minute of our trip.

Sagres

The southwest tip of Portugal is stunning and, in recent years, has been well-discovered by visitors. If you’re looking for a change of scenery from wherever you’ve chosen to home-base in the western Algarve, consider spending an afternoon on one of Sagres’ windswept beaches.

This area of the western Algarve is popular with surfers. In fact, Sagres (#4) is widely known as a surfing town. I enjoyed watching the surfers kitted out in black wetsuits paddling out to the rolling swells then jumping up and riding back in before wiping out.

Dip your toes into the crashing waves and you’ll realize why the surfer dudes wear wetsuits. The water’s freezing!

You won’t find much in the way of artsy attractions in Sagres. Go for the beaches, the scenery, and the surfing (or at least to watch the surfing).

Here’s a 360-degree view of the scene on a beach at Sagres.

The dramatic Sagres Fortress (Fortaleza de Sagres) is worth a quick look. Stroll the 1.5 kilometer cliffside walk inside the fortress, then check out the lighthouse and Henry the Navigator’s large wind compass (rosados ventos).

Tours of the Algarve

Here are some tours of the Algarve with GetYourGuide.

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Tickets for Algarve Attractions

Purchase tickets for Algarve attractions with Tiquets.com

Alentejo

Visit the Alentejo (#5) to enjoy the “Tuscany of Portugal”. Like its Italian cousin, the Alentejo is famous for great food, beautiful countryside, medieval hill towns, olive oil, and wine.

The Alentejo hill towns are whitewashed and dazzling under the hot, blue sky, and the Alentejo has something that Tuscany does not—hectares and hectares of cork forests.

Cork has to be one of nature’s most amazing substances. We went crazy for cork on our first visit to the region and bought several items made from it.

Cork tree forest in the Alentejo in Portugal — A plantation of cork oaks in Portugal

TIP: Buy cork items in places such as Évora rather than waiting to do your shopping in Lisbon. Prices are lower, and the selection is much greater. Good options are handbags and purses, glasses cases, toiletry bags, and hats made from cork. You can even buy a cork umbrella. Cork items are lightweight and easy to pack, perfect to take home as gifts.

The first time we visited Portugal, we bought a cork item for every person on our holiday gift list.

Évora

Home-base in Évora (#6), the largest town in the region with the most to see. The main square includes the remains of the Roman temple known as Templo de Diana. The temple is well preserved and extraordinarily evocative, particularly when photographed against the brilliant blue sky.

Don’t miss the Cathedral of Évora, the largest cathedral in Portugal. I wasn’t able to visit it nor the Chapel of Bones when we were in Évora, but both look interesting.

The Chapel of Bones is a 16th-century chapel decorated with the bones and skulls of over 5,000 corpses. Sounds cheerful.

If you’ve been to the cathedral or the chapel, please add a comment below and tell me about your experience.

Gastronomic Tourism

The Alentejo is famous for its excellent cuisine. Go on a wine-tasting tour, sample local olive oils, and eat at least one meal featuring the region’s famous black pork.

Évora boasts several excellent restaurants. Consider eating at Fialho Restaurant—one of Évora’s most historic and famous restaurants that put Alentejo cuisine on the map. We enjoyed one of our best meals ever at Fialho.

A few kilometers out of town is the Almendres Cromlech, the largest megalithic complex on the Iberian Peninsula. I describe it in more detail in the Artsy Sightseeing section of the Portugal page.

Spend an afternoon driving around the area to see evidence of a civilization that flourished millenia ago.

Almendres megalithic enclosure near Evora in Portugal — The Almendres megalithic enclosure is the largest megalithic monument in the Iberian Peninsula and one of the oldest in the world.

Estremoz

We have a soft spot for this beautiful Alentejo hill town, because Gregg had an exhibition there a few years ago. The town still feels authentic and not at all touristy.

Visit the Museu Municipal Prof. Joaquim Vermelho to see a marvelous collection of local crafts dating from the 17th to the 19th centuries. Of note are the handcrafted clay figurines called the Bonecos de Estremoz.

The figurines are dressed in the regional outfits of the Alentejo and reflect the spirit, humor, work, and traditions of the region. The craftsmanship of these clay figures was recently added to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

White-washed church in Estremoz, Portugal — Location of Gregg’s exhibition in Estremoz (#7): the poster is on the wall

Where to Stay in the Algarve and Alentejo

For accommodation suggestions in Tavira, the western Algarve, Évora, and Estremoz, see Where to Stay in Portugal: My Best Picks.

Have you toured the Algarve and Alentejo? Let us know your experience in the comments.

Here are more posts about Portugal on Artsy Traveler:

Best of North & Central Portugal for the Artsy Traveler

January 28, 2020October 15, 2024Destinations, Portugal Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on October 15th, 2024 at 04:20 am

There’s lots to see as you travel north from Lisbon along the Atlantic coast in central Portugal to Porto and the Spanish border.

Spend most of your time in Porto but spare a few days getting there via Óbidos, Nazaré, and Coimbra.

This post presents my best tips for touring central and northern Portugal.

Exploring the Atlantic Coast

Drive north from Lisbon or west from Évora in the Alentejo to the Atlantic coast. Drop by the cute little town of Óbidos and watch the massive waves pound the coast around Nazaré. Head north to Figueira da Foz and inland to Coimbra, then explore Porto and points beyond.

Óbidos

Stop first in enchanting little Óbidos, about an hour north of Lisbon. This fine example of a Portuguese walled town was presented by King Afonso II to the Queen of Portugal on their wedding day in 1210. Now, that’s a wedding present that beats a blender any day.

Town of Obidos in Portugal — Lovely town of Óbidos in Portugal

The town is achingly sweet, with its cobbled streets, white-washed houses trimmed in bright yellow and blue, and a Moorish castle that is now a pousada. A Portuguese pousada is like a Spanish parador—a building of historical significance renovated for use as a hotel. You’ll find pousadas throughout Portugal.

Nazaré

This beautiful town scrambles up the hill above a long, sandy beach jam-packed with candy-striped bathing tents. Fishing traditions are strong here, and you’ll see female fishmongers wearing the traditional seven petticoats (although I didn’t ask to count them).

Striped tents on the beach at Nazare — Striped tents on the beach at Nazaré

We got a kick out of watching ancient widows dressed in black, looking like they’d just stepped out of the 19^th century, talking on cell phones.

A major attraction on the coast close to Nazaré is its world-class surfing. The Nazaré Canyon is a submarine geomorphological phenomenon that contributes to the formation of perfect giant waves. Champion surfers ride waves up to 30 meters high at Praia do Norte.

Standing on the beach to watch the waves crash is a sobering reminder of the power of nature.

I suggest staying the night in Nazaré so you can enjoy a fish dinner in one of the restaurants facing the beach.

Figueira da Foz

This town is wonderfully far off the tourist track, but we’ve visited a few times because we have friends there. I like it because I’ve never run into a visitor from anywhere other than Portugal and, occasionally, France.

The beach is massive, sandy, and windy. In the old town, you’ll find authentic restaurants and a lively bar scene.

We visited the Museu Municipal Santos Rocha, a modern art complex consisting of several airy galleries. Highlights include a wonderful archeological collection featuring Roman coins as well as displays of objects from former Portuguese colonies in Africa.

Check the website for Figueira da Foz to see what’s on at the Museu Municipal Santos Rocha and elsewhere in the city.

Coimbra

In medieval times, Coimbra was the capital of Portugal. The historic center, with its old cobbled streets, dates from Moorish times.

The big attraction is the University of Coimbra, Portugal’s oldest and most prestigious university—the Oxford of Portugal. Originally founded in 1290 in Lisbon, the university is one of the oldest in the world. It was permanently relocated to Coimbra in 1537.

Entrance to the library at the University of Coimbra

Stand in the middle of the vast Pátio das Escolas to appreciate the surrounding buildings, most dating from the 16^th to the 18^th centuries.

Buy tickets to explore the buildings, particularly the magnificent old library. You’ll likely be guided by students wearing the traditional black cloaks that look as though they’ve stepped out of a Harry Potter movie.

In the evening, attend a fado concert. The Cultural House àCapella – Fado Center features a nightly show starting at 9:30 pm. The center is housed in a 14th-century chapel and includes a bar and tapas service.

Porto

In recent years, Porto has become the place to visit in Portugal. People describe it as the cool and funky place that Lisbon used to be.

I get that. On our visit in 2019, Porto reminded me of Lisbon of ten years ago when it hadn’t yet been gussied up with souvenir shops and fresh coats of paint.

View of Porto from across the Douro River

However, Porto has been discovered, and its funkiness likely will be slowly gentrified. See it soon!

The city tumbles down a series of steep streets to the Douro River. We stayed a few steps from the river in the thick of the action, and it was marvelous!

Throngs of tourists crowd the walkway alongside the river while tour boats whisk sightseers upriver to the Douro Valley.

Exploring Porto

The attraction of Porto is the city itself–the narrow old houses, some covered in blue and white tiles, the relaxed atmosphere, and the many staircases!

Trudge up to the Church of Sao Francisco to view the fabulous tilework. Then attend a fado concert at the Casa da Guitarra that features a spectacular female singer and includes a glass of port. Highly recommended!

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Crossing the River to Gaia

Take the launch from Porto across the river to Gaia to visit the port warehouses. Old-fashioned port boats that transport the casks of port downriver from the vineyards are moored in front of the warehouses.

Sample a few glasses of port, admire the view of Porto, then walk back across the river via the Dom Luis Bridge.

Cork boats moored on the Douro River in Porto

Port wine shows up frequently in Porto. In addition to the glass of port included with our ticket to the fado concert, we received a glass of port at the Picasso exhibition and had a decanter of port left for us at our rental apartment. They’re nuts about port in Porto.

Find a place along the river for dinner. The quality of the restaurants varies, with some being excellent and others not so much. But the service at every restaurant we went to in the area was friendly and efficient, and the views were unbeatable.

North of Porto

Consider adding a few days to your trip to head north to the interesting town of Guimarães, regarded as the birthplace of Portugal and home to several historic buildings and an ancient castle. Also check out Braga, the third largest city in Portugal. Visit the Bom Jesus do Monte, a church famous for its stunning baroque staircase that depicts the ascent to heaven.

Another option is to explore the beautiful Douro Valley to the east, with its vineyards and rolling hills.

Here are two tours to consider.

Keep going north and you’ll end up in Spain, where green and gorgeous Galicia awaits.

Where to Stay in Central and Northern Portugal

For accommodation suggestions in Nazaré, Figueira da Foz, Coimbra, and Porto, see Where to Stay in Portugal: My Best Picks.

Have you traveled in central and northern Portugal? Share your tips and suggestions with other Artsy Travelers!

Here are some more posts about Portugal:

Three Amazing Days in Lisbon

January 28, 2020October 17, 2024Destinations, Portugal Artsy Traveler 2 Comments

Last updated on October 17th, 2024 at 02:37 am

Lisbon is a wonderful city that deserves a stay of at least two or three nights. You want to be able to enjoy Lisbon at night when the crowds dissipate and the sounds of Fado waft from cafes in the Alfama and Bairro Alto.

In my suggested two-week itinerary for a driving trip around Portugal (see the Portugal page), I recommend driving to Lisbon from Porto in the morning, dropping the car at the airport, and then taking a taxi or shuttle into Lisbon for the last three nights of your Portugal trip.

That gives you a day and a half to explore Lisbon and another full day to enjoy Sintra, either on your own or on a day tour.

Getting Around Lisbon

I recommend settling into one of the three adjacent and historic Lisbon neighborhoods. Imagine you’re facing downtown Lisbon with your back to the Tagus River (Rio Tejo).

The Bairro Alto is on the hill to your left; the Baixa-Chiado district (or just Baixa), with its orderly grid of streets is in the center; and the twisty lanes of the ancient Moorish district of the Alfama crawl up the hill to your right, crowned by the Castelo São Jorge.

By basing yourself in one of these three districts, you can walk almost everywhere. When you get tired of walking, hail a taxi (not expensive in Lisbon) or hop on one of the historic trams. They clatter and shudder up the steep hills and, although packed with fellow tourists, are a lot of fun to ride at least once.

Take the metro or a bus out to the Gulbenkian and to the Belém district, and catch the train to Sintra from the Rossio train station at Praça Rossio.

Day 1: Arrive in Lisbon

After dropping off your car at the airport, take a taxi to your hotel, arriving in the early afternoon. I suggest booking a hotel in the central Baixa-Chiado district. I’ve stayed in all three districts, but I most enjoyed staying in the Baixa about a block from the massive Praça do Comércio with its breezy outdoor cafés and stunning views of the Tagus River.

Alfama

Walk to the Alfama district, tour the Fado Museum, then climb the narrow streets to the Castelo São Jorge. You’ll be rewarded with great views over Lisbon.

The streets and houses in the ancient Alfama have retained some of their old world charm, but the area feels cleaned up, and the atmosphere has changed over the ten years since we first visited Lisbon.

In 2010 when we stayed for a week at an apartment in the Alfama, a rooster was tethered to a leash a few meters from our front door, salted cod hung in the windows of tiny grocery stores, and I never saw a souvenir shop. On our last visit post-COVID, the Alfama swarmed with tourists, the salted cod was a memory, and souvenir shops abounded.

Rooster in the street in the old Alfama in Lisbon — Rooster in the street in the old Alfama

It wasn’t an improvement.

But go for a wander through the area anyway. If you visit towards the end of the day when the crowds have thinned, you’ll get a bit of the Moorish/Medieval vibe.

Lisboa Story Center

After spending time in the Alfama, walk into the Praça do Comércio, and check out the Lisboa Story Center. It’s open until 8 pm (last entry at 7 pm), making it a great early evening stop.

Buy tickets and an audio guide ahead of time to skip the lines. The Lisboa Story Center can get crowded.

Yes, it’s touristy, but I thoroughly enjoyed the interactive displays chronicling the history of Lisbon. You don an audio headset and take a 60-minute journey back in time. The displays are engaging and interesting.

For part of the journey, you enter a sensory theater to experience the 1755 earthquake that devastated Lisbon. I was intrigued by the displays about the Carnation Revolution of 1974 and the making of modern-day Portugal.

Evening of Day 1

Enjoy dinner in one of the outdoor cafés in the Praça do Comércio, then stroll up the wide avenues of the Baixa to the Praça do Rossio, the central square with its wonderful wavy brickwork. Stop for a drink and watch Lisbon go by.

Looking toward Lisbon from the massive Praça do Comércio

Day 2: All Day in Lisbon

If you’re staying in the Baixa, skip the expensive hotel breakfast and grab a coffee and a croissant at an outdoor café.

Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation

Head out early to enjoy a morning of fabulous art at the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation. This place blows me away! Take the metro (blue and red line) to S. Sebastião.

Get your tickets online in advance to avoid waiting in line.

I write about the Gulbenkian in Artsy Sightseeing on the Portugal page. You’ll see a spectacular collection of sculptures, paintings, jewelry, furniture, and other objets d’art from Egyptian times to the present. Another attraction is the 7.5-hectare park surrounding the buildings that make up the foundation.

Virtual Tour

Explore the collections on the Foundation’s website.

Belém

From downtown Lisbon, head to Belém on either the E15 tram or the 728 bus. They’ll drop you in front of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos.

Several of Lisbon’s iconic tourist attractions, as well as great views of the Tejo Estuary, are located in the stylish Belém district in west Lisbon. This area has enough attractions to fill a day, but with only an afternoon, here’s what I suggest you see, in this order.

Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

Tour this ornate UNESCO World Heritage Site that’s one of the foremost examples of the Manueline architecture and one of Portugal’s most decorative churches.

See lots of spindly columns and fine stonework that remind me of icing sugar decorations on a wedding cake. The huge, two-level cloister is worth seeing. This place gets mobbed with tourists so buy your tickets in advance.

Berardo Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art

Located close to the Jeronimos Monastery, this new museum was touted as the most visited museum in Portugal, according to The Art Newspaper.

The Berardo Museum presents the most significant artistic movements from the 20th century to the present day. Artists include Picasso, Duchamp, Mondrian, Miró, Ernst, and Bacon.

Two Iconic Monuments

When you’re in Belém, you can’t miss the two monuments that everyone comes to see: the iconic Belém Tower (Torre Belém) and the Monument to the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos).

The Belém Tower is one of Lisbon’s most photographed sites. The Tower was built in the 16^th century to protect the coast from attackers.

Stroll along the river to the Monument to the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos), a striking, modern structure rebuilt in 1960 to celebrate 33 prominent figures in Portugal’s Age of Discoveries, including Henry the Navigator. A great photo op!

Monument to the Discoveries in Lisbon — Monument to the Discoveries

And, if you have time, sample the famous pastéis de nata at the Pastéis de Belém, reputed to be the best place in Lisbon to enjoy the creamy custard tarts in puff pastry. If not, don’t worry; these tarts are on the menu of every café in Portugal (and I ate my fair share of them).

Fado Performance

In the evening, head to the Bairro Alto for dinner and fado. Showy tourist shows are available, but I prefer prowling the back streets of the area in search of small restaurants and less touristy shows.

Our favorite place in Lisbon is Restaurante Canto do Camões on Travessa da Espera in the Bairro Alto. It’s low-key, with a friendly owner, good food, reasonable prices, and lots of fado. When we were there, singers dropped in, performed a few songs designed to rip our hearts out, collected a few euros from the proprietor, and then left, presumably to go sing in another place.

Restaurante Canto do Camões doesn’t appear to have a website, but you’ll find reviews on TripAdvisor. It’s not the flashiest place in Lisbon, but it feels authentic and we like it.

You can also purchase tickets for one of the slick fado performances designed for tourists.

Here are more links to tours and attractions in Lisbon.

Day 3: Sintra

Fill your last day in Portugal with the heady delights of Sintra. Even Byron mentioned it in his epic poem, Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage: Lo! Cintra’s glorious Eden intervenes, in variegated maze of mount and glen. Old Byron did have a way with words.

Catch the direct train from Rossio station to Sintra. The round-trip costs €4,30. Another option is to take a day tour from Lisbon.

The town of Sintra, with its pastel-colored mansions, is delightful, but the two big draws are the Pena Palace, with its Romanesque-Revival architecture, and the Moorish Castle.

Pena Palace

Get tickets ahead of time for the Pena Palace, and be prepared for a crush as you tour it.

Bus 434 from the Sintra train station does a circular loop through the historic center, up to the Pena Palace and the Moorish Castle, then back to Sintra. Or you can visit the castle after seeing the palace and walk down along a 2- kilometer trail.

The place is a fairy tale on acid—so bizarre with its turrets and bright colors that you can’t help smiling with disbelief and a touch of awe. What kind of mind envisioned it?

Moorish Castle

After going through the palace, walk down to the Castelo dos Mouros—the Moorish Castle. It’s usually less crowded than the palace. The views from the castle’s 10th-century ramparts take your breath away.

Other Sites in Sintra

You’ll find plenty more to see in Sintra, including the National Palace of Sintra and the wonderfully ornate Monserrate Palace. Consider staying in Sintra on your last night. Lawrence’s Hotel, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, opened in 1764, making it the oldest functioning hotel on the Iberian Peninsula. All the rooms have names rather than numbers.

If you do stay longer in Sintra, catch the bus out to Cabo de Roca, the westernmost point of Europe. Enjoy incredible views from the rocky cliffs along with the feeling of standing on the edge of a continent, because you are.

Where to Stay in Lisbon

For accommodation suggestions in Lisbon and Sintra, see Where to Stay in Portugal: My Best Picks.

Tickets and Tours in Lisbon

Here are some options for tickets and tours purchased through GetYourGuide:

Powered by GetYourGuide

And how about a walking tour? GuruWalks provides some good options for exploring Lisbon on foot with a local guide:

Conclusion

Have you visited Lisbon? Please share your recommendations in the comments below.

Here are more posts about things to see in Portugal and Europe:

Exploring Spectacular Northern Spain & Basque Country: My Best Bets

January 21, 2020October 15, 2024Destinations, Spain Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on October 15th, 2024 at 12:59 am

Northern Spain stretches from the Atlantic to the Pyrenees, a distance of almost 700 kilometers. This area of Spain boasts extraordinary scenery and something else you won’t see much of in the rest of Spain: rain.

Galicia in the northwest corner of Spain is green and gorgeous, with a culture that owes more to its Celtic neighbors in Brittany and Cornwall than to the rest of Iberia.

You’ll find a lot to enjoy in northern Spain—historic Santiago de Compostela, the Picos de Europa mountains, pinchos (pintxos) in San Sebastian, and the Guggenheim Bilbao, one of Europe’s top modern art museums.

Devote at least a week to this area of Spain. To help you plan your tour of northern Spain, I’ve compiled a ten-day itinerary that starts in Santiago de Compostela and ends in San Sebastian.

Orientation to Northern Spain

The map below includes the places mentioned in this post. Click a number to find out more information.

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

Getting Around

My itinerary presumes you’re driving. It’s possible to visit this area by train, but if you rent a car you can explore more of this fascinating and beautiful region, particularly the Picos de Europa.

Consider flying to Santiago de Compostela and touring the city for a few days before picking up your car and heading east. Drop it off in Bilbao and take a train to San Sebastian, or drive all the way to France and drop the car off there. Bordeaux is a convenient choice.

I suggest spending two days and three nights in Santiago de Compostela, one night on the north coast, three nights in or near Llanes to explore the Picos de Europa, one night in Santillana del Mar, one night in Bilbao, and one night in San Sebastian.

That’s a lot of one-night stands, so if you prefer and have the time, add more two-night stays. There’s a great deal to see in northern Spain!

Days 1 to 3: Santiago de Compostela

We spent a week in Santiago de Compostela a few years ago when Gregg had a major exhibition at the Granell Museum. The city of 100,000 people is a compact and lovely place with wonderful restaurants and parks and an atmospheric old town.

One of my favorite things to do was hanging out in the Praza do Obradoiro in front of the cathedral to watch Camino pilgrims enter the plaza. Santiago de Compostela, while not the actual end of the Camino de Santiago, is commonly the place most pilgrims stop.

The Cathedral at Santiago as seen from the Praza do Obradoiro

It was moving to see the pilgrims enter the plaza. Some were limping after weeks on the road, and most carried their pilgrim’s staff topped with a distinctive scallop shell similar to the shells that mark the Camino route. I saw a lot of tears and hugs and selfies.

Catedral de Santiago de Compostela

Pilgrims crowd into the cathedral (#1) where the remains of Saint James are allegedly buried. The cathedral is a jumble of architectural styles— Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque. A highlight inside the west entrance is the Pórtico de la Gloria, containing 200 Romanesque sculptures dating from the late 12^th century.

Truth be told, I found the cathedral dark and overcrowded, but there’s no denying the atmosphere of piety, particularly from the pilgrims who walked the Camino for religious reasons.

The Old Town

Wander the granite streets of the old town of Santiago, enjoying the arches, squares, and monuments that contributed to the city’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. You’ll find plenty of good shopping, particularly for jewelry. The atmosphere is laid-back and friendly, with throngs of students, pilgrims, tourists, and locals.

Parks and Museums

Alameda Park (#2) is a large green space, wonderful to chill out in away from the crowds in the Praza do Obradoiro. You also get a marvelous view of the cathedral from the park.

When Gregg was in Santiago on a solo trip, he came across a large group of people in traditional costumes playing instruments and dancing in San Domingos de Bonaval Park. Watch his video on YouTube. Notice how Celtic the music sounds with the drums and bagpipes—completely different from the flamenco rhythms in the south.

In Bonaval, you’ll also find the Galician Contemporary Art Centre and the Museum of the Galician People (Museo de Pobo Galego).

In Santiago de Compostela, you’ll notice that you’re in Galicia first, Spain second. Local people speak Galician and are proud of their heritage. You’ll be understood in Spanish, and likely in English, in restaurants and hotels.

On the Pazo de Bendaña, not far from the cathedral, is the Granell Museum, housed in a beautiful old Baroque building. If you’re a fan of Surrealism, check out this museum that includes an extensive collection of work by Eugenio Granell and other artists linked to Surrealism, including Marcel Duchamp, Max Ernst, Joan Miró, and Roberto Matta.

Dining in Santiago de Compostela

With so many students, tourists and pilgrims swelling its population every year, Santiago de Compostela has become known for its excellent restaurants. We enjoyed several memorable meals during our week-long visit. Check restaurant apps and reviews and make reservations.

Day 4: North Coast

Head north from Santiago de Compostela to the coast then meander eastwards into Asturias, stopping at one of the many beachside towns. Magnificent rock formations are a draw at Playa Las Catedrales (#3), located near Ribadeo on the north coast.

Playa Las Catedrales beach near Ribadeo, Galicia of Lugo, Spai

Slow down and get off the main roads. Oviedo, the capital of Asturias, is a possible stopping place for the night. The Fine Arts Museum of Asturias looks intriguing.

Days 4 to 5: Llanes and the Picos de Europa

You’ll encounter rugged mountain vistas as you continue east toward the Picos de Europa. The jagged peaks of Picos de Europa (#4) National Park, Spain’s first national park, are nicknamed “Spain’s Dolomites.”

The mountains straddle southeast Asturias, southwest Cantabria, and northern Castilla y León. If you’re a hiker, you’ll want to spend a few days here.

One option is to home-base in the charming coastal town of Llanes (pronounced YAH-ness).

We discovered Llanes (#5) by accident on our drive across northern Spain. For once, I hadn’t booked a hotel, deciding that we’d just stop driving when we got tired and hope for the best. I don’t recommend that approach, particularly in the busy summer months, but sometimes it’s fun to live dangerously!

I saw the sign for Llanes, figured it was as good a place as any, and directed Gregg to the old town.

What a fortuitous decision! The little seaside town of Llanes turned out to be delightful, with beautiful buildings covered in fine woodwork and small windows. An inland waterway lined on both sides with cafés runs through the town center. Pull up a chair in one of the cafés to enjoy some tapas and beer, and watch the boats go by.

Traditional houses in Llanes, Asturias, Spain.

Take a walk out to the breakwater. An artist has painted the huge concrete blocks that protect the town from high tides with all sorts of crazy patterns.

Painted cement blocks on the breakwater in Llanes, Spain — Painted cement blocks on a jetty in Llanes, Spain

Watch the sun set over the Atlantic and prepare to be enchanted.

Eat dinner at an outdoor café in the network of tiny lanes in the old town. Two three-course meals and several glasses of red wine cost us just €10. Now, that’s a bargain!

The waiter insisted on giving us several of his cards so we could tell everyone we met about his restaurant. We wandered back through picturesque squares to our hotel, situated in a renovated convent.

In the middle of the night, I woke up, terrified that something—someone—was in the room. Perhaps a nun, long dead, was not happy to find me sleeping in a room that had once been her cell. I was so frightened that I had to wake up Gregg!

Is it likely that thousands of years of history—much of it violent—has produced its share of discontented ghosts?

Maybe.

Day 6: Santillana del Mar

The Caves of Altamira are located close to Santillana del Mar (#6). Seventeen caves are decorated with art of the Paleolithic age dating from 35,000 to 11,000 BC. Because of their deep galleries, isolated from external climatic influences, these caves are particularly well preserved. You can visit the replica caves. Check out the official website.

Bilbao

The drive from Santillana del Mar along the coast to Bilbao (#7) is gorgeous. Get off the highway and explore some of the windswept, rock-choked coves. This part of northern Spain is spectacular.

Bilbao is a large port city with a tangle of highways leading to the Nervión River and the Guggenheim. Use your GPS to navigate into the city, and avoid hotels in the old town. We chose the Hotel Melià, a modern hotel on the river, which was easy to find and included a large parking garage.

The street signs written in the Euskara language are daunting and largely unpronounceable, at least for foreign tourists like us! Many of the streets have names consisting of 20 letters, most of which are X’s and Z’s. When you’re in Basque country, you may forget you’re still in Spain.

Fortunately, you’ll easily get by in Spanish and English.

The big attraction in Bilbao is the Guggenheim Museum (#8), one of the world’s top modern art museums. I love that the city of Bilbao decided to revitalize itself and attract tourist euros by building a world-class art museum. That choice showed vision along with a heartening belief in the importance of art and culture.

Exterior of Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, Basque, Spain

We chose one of the ultra-modern hotels in an ultra-modern area of Bilbao about a ten-minute stroll along the river from the Guggenheim. Read my suggestions for hotels in Bilbao in Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Likely your first view of the Guggenheim will be of Puppy, the colossal topiary of a West Highland White Terrier that stands guard in front of the museum. With its variegated coat of flowers that changes with the season, Puppy is remarkably photogenic.

Puppy at night in front of the Guggenheim Bilbao — *Puppy* at night in front of the Guggenheim Bilbao

After you’ve satiated your thirst for Puppy pics, walk around the building to admire the silvery-gold slabs of hammered, stamped steel of Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim and to view more of the modern sculptures.

You’ll see Anish Kapoor’s astonishing sculpture of huge silver orbs stacked almost as high as the roof of the museum and facing the river. The piece is perfectly situated to catch the sun, turning the entire column of orbs into one pulsing, glistening beacon. Another marvelous sculpture is Maman by Louise Bourgeois—a massive spider and not recommended for arachnophobes.

Once you’ve had your fill of the exterior, enter the Guggenheim and get your bearings. See what the special exhibition is, study the maps or download the app, and plan your route.

A highlight is the enormous sculpture by Richard Serra on the ground floor. The work consists of six steel slabs bent and curled in various ways that invite you into their depths to wander until you feel dizzy. We went into two of the sculptures, and that was enough! The effect is startling, and a little goes a long way.

When we visited, we saw a stylishly curated exhibition of new paintings and digital works by David Hockney.

Following your visit to the Guggenheim, stroll across the bridge to the old town to spend your evening enjoying tapas and drinks. On your way back, you’ll see the Guggenheim and Puppy evocatively floodlit.

San Sebastian

If you’re driving to San Sebastian—called Donostia (#9) by the Basques—your first view may be nondescript suburbs miles away from the famous sweep of beach. Persevere until you reach the water and the old town.

Our hotel was situated at the top of Mount Urgull, one of two mountains that flank San Sebastian. Here’s the stunning view of San Sebastian from near our hotel.

View over San Sebastian, Spain — Overview of the Bay of San Sebastian, Spain

Traffic in San Sebastian was remarkably sedate when we were there. Head for one of the big parking lots in the commercial center and then explore San Sebastian on foot.

San Sebastian consists of three main areas – the long sweep of beach bristling with frolicking holiday-makers, the modern town built on an easy-to-navigate grid system, and the old town with its narrow streets and intriguing aromas.

Spend your evening in San Sebastian bar-hopping in the old town to sample as many pinchos (pintxos) as possible.

Squeeze into a bar (they’re all crowded!), grab a plate, select a few cold pinchos from the platters lined up on the bar (so many varieties to choose from!), grab a glass of local wine, eat standing up amid the crowds, then saunter off to another place.

Platters of pinchos on a bar in San Sebastian — Spanish tapas called pintxos of the Basque country served on a bar counter in a restaurant in San Sebastian, Spain

Each pincho is a mini work of art. If you don’t see something you like on the cold platters, order hot pinchos listed on chalkboards behind the bar.

The incredibly efficient servers keep track of what you’ve eaten by the number of toothpicks left on your plate. You also crumple up your used napkins and throw them on the floor—a practice that takes some getting used to!

Go from bar to bar sampling two or three pinchos at each, along with a glass of wine. Prices are amazingly reasonable. Our evening of pincho-eating and wine-guzzling cost just €30, including two gelatos.

Everyone seemed in great humor. Families with little kids filled the streets late into the evening. The San Sebastian people know how to live!

Where to Stay in Northern Spain

For accommodation suggestions in Santiago de Compostela, Llanes, San Sebastian, and Bilbao, see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Other Tour Options in Northern Spain

Here are some more tour options in northern Spain offered through GetYourGuide:

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Conclusion

Have you been to northern Spain? Please share your experiences and tips with other artsy travelers in the Comments section below.

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A Culture-Steeped Itinerary to Tour Andalusia Comfortably in 10 Days

January 21, 2020October 17, 2024Destinations, Spain Artsy Traveler 3 Comments

Last updated on October 17th, 2024 at 12:50 am

Touring Andalusia in ten days provides enough time to comfortably sample this incredible region. My itinerary starts in Cordoba and ends in Seville, and takes in Ronda, the White Towns, Cadiz, and Granada.

I don’t include the Mediterranean resorts, such as Malaga on the Costa del Sol, because I haven’t visited them. Instead, I suggest a night in lovely Cadiz facing the Atlantic Ocean. The swimming there is awesome!

As an artsy traveler, you’ll find more than enough cultural sites and experiences to delight you when touring Andalusia with my suggested itinerary.

Why Tour Andalusia?

To me, Andalusia is Spain on steroids. It’s the Spain of my imagination with bone-white villages perched on rocky crags, the skull-pounding rhythms and olés of flamenco, and tranquil Moorish courtyards with fountains splashing. I just have to say Andalusia and I feel romantic.

Carol Cram in Grazalema in Andalusia, a stop on a culture-stepped itinerary to tour Andalusia — Me on the road leading to Grazalema, one of the *Pueblos Blancos* (white towns) in Andalusia

To get you in the mood for touring Andalusia, listen to this clip from Concerto for Aranjuez by Joaquín Rodrigo. If your heart swells and your palms get a bit sweaty from an excess of romantic swooning, then you’ll know that touring Andalusia is for you!

Getting Around Andalusia

As one of the largest regions in Spain, Andalusia stretches from the Portuguese border in the west, south to the Mediterranean and the resorts on the Costa del Sol, and east almost as far as Cartagena. Here’s a map of the area:

Trip map courtesy of Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

One way to tour Andalusia is to connect the three principal cities—Cordoba (#1), Granada (#2), and Seville (#5)—by train. The distances are short, and train service is efficient and fast.

On our first trip to the area, we took trains and found the experience easy and relaxing.

If you want to add in Cadiz (#4), the White Towns (Pueblos Blancos), and Ronda (#3) (highly recommended), then consider renting a car. One option is to take the high-speed train from Madrid to Cordoba, enjoy the city for one night, then pick up a car to drive east to Granada for two nights before circling around to the east to visit the White Towns, Ronda, and Cadiz by way of Arcos de la Frontera.

Drop off the car at the airport in Seville, grab a shuttle or a taxi to an apartment in the old town (where I don’t advise driving), and enjoy the final days of your trip in Andalusia.

Suggested Itinerary

For an itinerary for touring Andalusia that combines driving and trains, I suggest:

One night in Cordoba
Two nights in Granada
Three nights in the countryside near Ronda to explore it and the White Towns
One night in Cadiz
Three nights in Seville.

Highlights of your week include visits to the Alhambra in Granada and the Mosque-Cathedral in Cordoba, touring gorgeous Ronda and the White Towns, basking on the beach at Cadiz, and, of course, enjoying flamenco pretty much everywhere, but particularly in Seville.

Day 1: Cordoba

Train from Madrid

We took an early morning train from Madrid to Cordoba, and were glad we were on the train and not driving. The distance is quite vast and the landscape stark and beautiful, but not particularly varied. You’ll pass a lot of olive trees.

On another trip to Spain, we drove from Toledo (just south of Madrid) to Ronda (not far from Cordoba). As we’d discovered when watching the landscape from the train on our first trip, the vast distance didn’t improve when seen from a car. On our next trip to Spain, we plan to take trains more often and rent cars at our destinations.

Arrival in Cordoba

We arrived in Cordoba and moments later were careening through the historic Jewish Quarter in the back seat of a taxi driven by a guy who didn’t know where he was going. As we had all morning, we continued to congratulate ourselves for not driving.

The author with a glass of sherry in the courtyard of a hotel in Cordoba — Relaxing with a glass of sherry after finding our lovely little hotel in old Cordoba

Finally, we arrived at our lovely little hotel on a small square in the maze of tiny streets. We entered a cool courtyard where a fountain tinkled and the friendly proprietor offered us a cold glass of wine. Heaven after a long day of traveling!

For information about where we stayed in Cordoba, see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Exploring Cordoba

Refreshed from our drink and a rest, we ventured out into this lovely old city. One can’t help but love it. The old town is compact, with plenty of twisting medieval streets, and the Mosque-Cathedral and the Roman Bridge are world-class sites.

Touring the Mosque-Cathedral (Mezquita)

Visit the Mosque-Cathedral (a UNESCO World Heritage site) in the late afternoon or early morning. With any luck, the tour groups will have dissipated, leaving you space to enjoy this incredible place in relative solitude.

Wander around to soak up the history and then, if you can, hover at the edges of a guided tour to pick up some information about the history and architecture.

Moorish architecture of the praying hall. The Mezquita is regarded as the most accomplished monument of the Umayyad Caliphate of Córdoba. After the Spanish Reconquista, it once again became a Roman Catholic church. — Moorish architecture of the praying hall in the Mosque-Cathedral

Around 900 AD, Cordoba under Moorish rule had 400,000 inhabitants and was one of the most sophisticated cities in Europe. In those days, the mosque was called the Mezquita and was a glorious forest of arches and columns.

In the 15th century, the King built a church in the center of the mosque – a terrible shame, from an architectural standpoint. However, be grateful that they didn’t pull down the mosque itself so we can still see what it looked like in its heyday. What’s left of the mosaics, and the lovely symmetry of the columns and arches, provides an interesting contrast to the overly ornate church bits.

Enjoying Flamenco in Cordoba

In the evening, enjoy tapas in the historic quarter and then catch a flamenco performance at the Tablao El Cardenal. We were entranced for over two hours.

Two guitar players, two male singers, five female dancers, and one male dancer made up the company. Unbelievable!

The male singers did things with their throats that I didn’t think humanly possible, and the flamenco guitarists were breathtaking. And then there were the dancers! Both soloists and ensembles performed what sometimes looked choreographed and at other times improvised, inspired by the singers and guitarists.

Strolling the Roman Bridge

After the show, wander out to view the Roman Bridge dating from the 1st century BC that spans the Guadalquivir River. Walk across and look back to see the floodlit Mosque-Cathedral.

Roman Bridge on Guadalquivir River and Mosque-Cathedral (La Mezquita) illuminated at dusk in the city of Cordoba, Andalusia, Spain.

Cordoba Tours

Days 2 & 3: Granada

Drive about two hours or catch a train to Granada. If you’re driving, take a detour to the las Sierras Subbéticas National Park to enjoy amazing views.

Granada is a thriving town with more going for it than just the Alhambra. Spend your first afternoon and evening walking around the backstreets and barrios of this lovely city. Stop by one of the lively plazas for a drink and tapas and watch the world go by. You might hear a band playing in a nearby park.

Also, stroll up to Sacromonte, the atmospheric gypsy quarter. Peer into cave houses and later in the evening enjoy more flamenco.

Visiting the Alhambra

Buy your tickets for the Alhambra within three months of your visit to Granada. Your ticket is valid all day. However, you need a special time-slot admission ticket to visit the Nasrid Palaces (Palacios Nazaries) at the heart of the Alhambra. If possible, choose a time early in the day to have a fighting chance of beating the crowds.

A beautiful view of Alhambra, Granada, Andalusia, Spain

Take a taxi up to the Alhambra (taxis are not expensive).

The Alhambra complex is huge. You’ll walk a lot, but every few steps you’ll see another new and glorious vista or intriguing detail to admire.

One of the huge towers of the Alcazaba fortress inside the Alhambra, a place to see while visiting Andalusia — One of the huge towers of the Alcazaba fortress inside the Alhambra

Touring the Nasrid Palaces

About thirty minutes before the time noted on your ticket for the Nasrid Palaces (Palacios Nazaries), line up at the entrance. The signs and the line-up are hard to miss!

Even in the morning, the crowds will be large, making the visit through the rooms of the palace a claustrophobic squeeze. Check out the drippy stonework on the ceilings, the incredible tilework, and the serene courtyards.

After visiting the palace, wander over to the Generalife Gardens which are usually not so crowded as the Alhambra and contain many more fountains. Apparently, the fountains are a 19th-century addition, since the Moors preferred standing water to fountains.

Water games and beautiful vegetation in the gardens of the Generalife on the hill of the Alhambra

Spend the rest of the day relaxing after the exertions of the Alhambra, do some shopping, eat more tapas, and chill. End the day with more flamenco!

Options for Touring the Alhambra

Days 4 to 6: Ronda & the White Towns

Take your time enjoying this lovely and rugged region of Spain. The White Towns (Pueblos Blancos) get their name from the white-washing on the walls of most of the houses. Set amidst rocky gorges and jagged cliffs, they gleam in the heat under harsh blue skies. Many of the towns are located within the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park.

I suggest home-basing at a rural property outside of Ronda. We stayed at a wonderful family-run hotel about a twenty-minute drive from Ronda on the road leading to the Caves of Pileta. For more about the Caves, check out Prehistory Sites in Europe: 7 Spine-Tingling Ancient Places.

Relax during the heat of the day, and then tour the towns in the early morning or late afternoon.

Ronda is worth a day of your time. The famous gorge is, well, gorgeous, particularly at sunset. We enjoyed a dinner overlooking the gorge and the bridge spanning it, and then stood at the edge of the bridge to watch the sun set over Andalusia.

Breathtaking! And so romantic!

Carol Cram on the bridge at Ronda, a highlight of touring Andalusia — Enjoying a sun-drenched view on the bridge at Ronda

Walk out onto the bridge and look down. It’s a long, long way down to the gorge.

View looking down from the bridge at Ronda. — Looking straight down from the bridge in Ronda

The tiny roads linking some of the White Towns, such as Zahara de la Sierra and Grazalema, are extremely twisty. Slow down and take your time navigating the hairpin turns while gasping at the spectacular vistas.

Day 7: Cadiz

We wanted a bit of beach time but weren’t keen on making the scene in the coastal resorts of the Costa del Sol near Malaga. So, we headed to Cadiz by way of Arcos de la Frontera—one of the larger but picturesque White Towns.

Instead of trying to navigate the narrow streets of old Cadiz, stay at a hotel along the main drag leading to the city and walk a block to the ocean. The beach stretches for miles, and the swimming is fabulous. Just about everyone on the beach was a local. Cadiz isn’t on the tourist beat.

View of the beach at Cadiz, a great place to chill while touring Andalusia — Enjoy the beach at Cadiz

Again, slow down and enjoy. In the evening, find a place alongside the sea front for a leisurely dinner and watch the sun sink below the horizon.

Days 8 to 10: Seville

And finally, to Seville—the jewel of Andalusia (in my opinion!). I adore Seville and after two visits, I am nowhere near done with it.

Although a substantial city, the core of Seville is easily walkable and oh-so-picturesque. Yes, it can get crowded, particularly around the massive Seville Cathedral, but walk a few blocks and you’ll have the streets to yourself.

The two major attractions are the Seville Cathedral and the Real Alcázar—the Alcázar Palace.

Visiting Seville Cathedral

The cathedral is decorated with much of the gold brought back by the Conquistadors and, although beautiful, is a little over-the-top. But do pop in for a look. A guided tour is a good idea.

Touring Real Alcázar

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Real Alcázar is worth a visit. It’s a palace, still in use by the royal family, that was built by Christians on the site of a Moorish fortress. The Alcázar is considered a preeminent example of the Mudéjar style of architecture characterized by decorative motifs first developed by the Moors.

Line-ups are long, so make sure you get tickets in advance and wear good walking shoes. There’s a lot to see here!

Enjoying More Flamenco

Visit the Flamenco Museum and enjoy a show (or two) of flamenco in one of the many venues. We favor Los Gallos for its intimate setting. Get tickets in advance. Read Flamenco for my take on the flamenco experience in Seville.

Hanging Out in Seville

The real charm of Seville is the city itself—the outdoor cafés, the views along the riverside, the palm-studded parks, the tiny streets often shaded by canopies to keep out the sweltering heat.

Yes, Seville is hot. On our trip there in July 2019, the thermometer grazed 41 degrees C (over 100 degrees F). Make sure you book an apartment or a hotel room with air conditioning, even if the cost is higher.

Spend the mornings sightseeing, return to your cool apartment in the heat of the day for siesta (such a civilized custom!), then venture out around 7 to start your evening. In Seville, the action barely gets going until after 10 pm.

Options for Touring Seville

Where to Stay in Andalusia

For accommodation suggestions in Cordoba, Granada, Cadiz, Ronda, and Seville, see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in Andalusia.

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Conclusion

Have you visited Andalusia? If so, you’ll know that ten days isn’t long enough to see all there is to see. Culture, art, and landscape come together in Andalusia to deliver one of Europe’s best artsy travel experiences.

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How to Spend Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Beautiful Barcelona

January 21, 2020December 10, 2024Destinations, Spain Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on December 10th, 2024 at 01:47 am

Barcelona has much to offer the artsy traveler. You won’t see all of it in two days, but you will see the highlights and still have time to stroll Las Ramblas and eat great food.

In this post, I share my suggestions for how to spend two full days and three nights in Barcelona.

Arrival Day

Presuming you arrive in Barcelona mid to late afternoon, give yourself time to get settled, then spend your evening exploring your neighborhood. I suggest staying in the Eixample area, where you’ll find good hotels, leafy treed streets, and lots of restaurants.

Aerial straight down on the Eixample Disctrict, Barcelona

On a solo trip to Barcelona a few years ago, I was amazed at the number of restaurants a short distance from the Cram Hotel in the Eixample district where I stayed. Yes, that’s my last name, and no, they didn’t give me a discount, but they did give me a free breakfast! Apparently, I was the first person named Cram to stay there.

Each restaurant I passed in a short walk around the ‘hood had similar high levels of décor, ambiance, and, presumably, food. I opted for steak at an Argentinian restaurant, where the efficient, friendly and English-speaking waiter served the various components of my meal—wine, bread, pepper dip, roasted vegetables, steak, and agua con gaz—with North-American velocity.

I could have lingered longer. A flute player and a guitarist played vaguely- South-American-sounding music in the background. The restaurant flickered with candles against a décor of deep reds and warm browns. It was a lovely restaurant–one of hundreds throughout the city.

It’s remarkable that so many restaurants can be sustained, but Barcelona is hopping.

After dinner, stroll to the Plaça de Catalunya, do some people-watching, then carry on down Los Ramblas, a 1.2-kilometer-long boulevard in the center of Barcelona. Join the throngs of locals and tourists in the pedestrian-only middle section, browse the souvenir stands and shops, get a drink, and watch a few street performers.

Safety in Barcelona

I’ve heard stories about pickpockets and other scams in Barcelona. If someone approaches you and is overly friendly, telling you that you have dirt on your back, or worse, walk smartly away. Forget being polite.

Wear your money belt and stay alert. Barcelona is a big city with a lot of tourists. Don’t be paranoid, but do be aware that thieves are on the lookout for easy marks. Don’t be one of them!

Suggested Itinerary for Barcelona

For your two full days in Barcelona, I suggest you devote Day 1 to Gaudí-related sites, attend a concert at the Palau de la Música in the evening of either Day 1 or Day 2, then spend Day 2 enjoying Barcelona’s art museums, particularly the Picasso Museum and the Miró Foundation.

Day 1: Gaudí Barcelona

Antoni Gaudí was a Catalan architect known for his highly individualized modernista style. You’ll find him everywhere in Barcelona—from the colorful Gaudí-styled mugs in the souvenir shops (and yes, I have one) to modernista apartment blocks to Parc Güell, one of Europe’s most appealing parks, to the soaringly magnificent Sagrada Familia.

The best way to visit the many Gaudí sites in Barcelona is to hop on one of the Hop-on, Hop-off bus tours that prowl the streets of the city.

We did just that at the Playa Catalunya, and although the price was steep, we appreciated being able to watch Barcelona go by from the top deck as we moved from site to site. The subway is another option, but taking either the tour bus or the regular bus is more fun.

Casa Milà

Start at Casa Milà, known locally as La Pedrera, Gaudí’s super-famous apartment block. Get your tickets ahead of time to avoid a long wait. The building is something to see, with its sweeping molded balconies that don’t look real and its ornate interiors. A highlight are the dozens of whimsical chimney pots on the roof, from which you get great views of the city.

The 4,500-square-meter building spread over five floors includes a museum, the reproduction of an early-20th-century apartment, an exhibition of Gaudí’s work, and the rooftop terrace.

Touring Casa Milà will take at least an hour.

Other Gaudí Buildings

Depending on your stamina and your interest in Gaudí, you may want to visit other notable Gaudí buildings. Here are two more.

Casa Batlló

Check out the colorful mosaics made of broken ceramic tiles that decorate the facade. Located at Passeig de Gràcia, 43.

Casa Vicens

Close-up of a strange window of Casa Batllò, a masterpiece by famous architect Antoni Gaudì.

Casa Vicens is one of Gaudí’s first buildings and considered one of the first modernist buildings in the world. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the building is a museum showcasing Gaudí’s work and includes temporary exhibitions. It’s located at Carrer de les Carolines, 20-26.

After all that Gaudí, you’ll be ready for lunch. Find a café and rest your weary feet for a while. Afterward, jump back on the bus and head to the Sagrada Familia.

Sagrada Familia

You must get tickets for the Sagrada Familia well in advance. This ticket lets you skip the line and includes a guided tour and tower visit.

Choose the time you want to go—say, 11 or noon, if you start your day at the Casa Milà.

Arrive at least thirty minutes early. You’ll still queue but not for as long as the people who didn’t plan ahead. In fact, if you don’t get advance tickets, you may end up waiting three hours or longer. When I visited at 3 pm, people were being told that the next entrance time was 6 pm.

Sagrada Familia in Barcelona — Sagrada Familia Temple in Barcelona

I visited on a sweltering August day. While waiting for my appointed time, I jotted down a few notes:

Sticky hot, sweat pooling, most voices are Spanish. Hear the occasional Brit; a family of Italians at the bench across the way is having a spirited argument. Everyone’s face is red and slick. Flies land on scratched skin and settle in until flicked off.

Wearing black jeans with a polyester top in 35-degree heat and what feels like 80% humidity is a misguided fashion choice. The first taste of cold agua con gaz is raw and life-giving–a torrent of bubbles blazing down a desperate throat.

Inside the Sagrada Familia

At your scheduled time, if you’re not taking a tour, join the hordes trudging around the perimeter of the basilica to the entrance for ticket holders, and pick up an audio guide (included in the ticket price and very informative) as you enter.

Stop and gasp.

The interior of the Sagrada Familia, although heaving with tourists snapping photos, is breathtaking. I can’t think of a better word. I’ve visited my share of cathedrals and have a soft spot for stained glass, but I’ve never seen stained glass used with such joyous abandon.

Marvel at the abstract patterns in blues and golds and greens and reds that diffuse the Barcelona sun into fractured splashes of color across faces, walls, t-shirts, and floors. High above, star-shaped openings punch the roof to let the sun stream in like bolts of pure light.

Sink into a pew and just stare. The bustle of people surging around the area cordoned off for sitting and contemplating fades into hushed murmurs. Regardless of your religious convictions, you can’t help but appreciate the magnificence of the architecture as a fitting celebration of spirit. You may never want to leave.

The Sagrada Familia was started in the 1880s and is not yet finished. Cranes arch across the towers, and you’ll hear hammers pounding. After visiting the interior, take a leisurely walk around the building to admire the intricate sculptures encrusting the walls like artsy barnacles.

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Parc Güell

If you’re visiting Barcelona in the summer, consider returning to your hotel to cool off for a while before venturing out to the Parc Güell. The Cram Hotel featured a rooftop pool that I was grateful for after my Sagrada Familia visit.

In the late afternoon, emerge refreshed and hop back on the bus. The Parc Güell features Gaudí’s fabulous mosaics and awesome views. When I visited with Gregg on a Sunday afternoon, we were convinced that half of Europe was in the park. We heard a lot of French, Italian, and Spanish but hardly any English.

Don’t miss the iconic Gaudí salamander, although you’ll be hard-pressed to get a people-free photo of it. Other attractions include the Hypostyle Room, Guard Museum, Gardens of Austria, and Nature Square.

The Dragon Salamander in the Parc Güell in Barcelona, Spain. — Parc Guell in Barcelona, Spain.

Get your tickets in advance to avoid line-ups and to guarantee entry.

Palau de la Música

Before you visit Barcelona, check the website to find out what’s on at the Palau de la Música. If tickets to a performance that interests you are available, get them. Sit up in the balcony to gape at the fabulous ceiling.

Interior of the Palau de la Musica in Barcelona — Interior of the Palau de la Música – take a guided tour

Another option is to visit the Palau de la Música on a guided tour. Whatever way you see this fabulous modernista building, make room for it in your Barcelona itinerary.

Day 2: Artsy Barcelona

Head first to the Barrí Gothic (Gothic Quarter) and get lost in its medieval streets. I love this part of Barcelona in the morning, when crowds are thin and the air is moderately cool.

Picasso Museum

After poking around the area, navigate to the Picasso Museum (Museu Picasso). Skip the line with a ticket you pre-purchased online and enjoy this homage to Picasso. You’ll see lots of work from his early years and get an excellent sense of his progression, from realism to abstraction and just about every 20th century art style in between, over the course of a very long life.

The museum also features special exhibitions that highlight aspects of Picasso’s work and relationships with other artists.

Consider a Picasso Walking Tour and Skip-the-Line ticket.

Barcelona Cathedral

Before you leave the Barrí Gothic, visit the Gothic-style cathedral, also known as La Seu. Notable is its 14th-century cloister full of palm trees and a Gothic portico where, apparently, 13 white geese wander. I didn’t count them.

The History Museum of Barcelona also looks intriguing although I haven’t yet visited.

Miró Foundation

The Fundació Joan Miró is fun to visit, whether or not you’re a Miró fan. The airy, light-filled building is part of its attraction. Designed by architect and city planner Josep Lluís Sert, the building is a leading example of avant-garde school of architecture in Catalonia.

If you’re new to Miró’s work, get the audio guide and learn what he was all about. His work makes me smile!

Where to Stay in Barcelona

For accommodation suggestions in Barcelona, see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Barcelona Tour Options

Here are some other tour options in Barcelona with Tiqets.com:

Barcelona Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Barcelona!

Have you visited Barcelona? Share your recommendations in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts about destinations in Spain:

Traveling in Central Spain: Best Destinations for the Artsy Traveler

January 21, 2020October 20, 2024Destinations, Spain Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on October 20th, 2024 at 05:39 pm

Traveling in central Spain is a commitment! Distances are vast and destinations spread out. You will drive and drive and drive–and not see a whole heck of a lot. The journey by car from Zaragoza in the east to Toledo just south of Madrid took us about six hours.

Fortunately, the long drives are rewarded with lots of see in the four cities described in this post: Madrid, Toledo, Zaragoza, and Salamanca.

Here are the four places on a map.

Map created with Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

You’re most likely to visit Zaragoza and Salamanca if you’re driving into or out of Spain from France (Zaragoza) or Portugal (Salamanca).

The fastest way to reach Madrid is to either fly or to take a high-speed train from Barcelona. Once in Madrid, visit Toledo on a day trip with either a tour or on public transit, or stop in on your way south if you’re driving.

I suggest allocating at least three nights for Madrid and one night for each of the other three cities en route to other parts of Spain.

Traveling in Spain: Madrid is the Heart

Madrid is monumental. Large avenues lined with massive buildings give the city a solid but not terribly intimate feel.

Panoramic aerial view over Madrid, Spain.

On one trip we happened to visit on September 29, the national day of protest against proposed government cuts. Thousands of demonstrators in the central Puerta del Sol wore red and chanted “No!”.

We’d heard that the whole city was shut down, but, as tourists, we didn’t experience any inconvenience beyond the taxis taking longer routes to get to the museums and tacking on a €2 surcharge. Considering the fares were around €5, we weren’t bothered!

On another trip, we stayed for two weeks and loved having the time to thoroughly explore Madrid. Check out my post: Exploring Fascinating Madrid–Europe’s: Best-Kept Secret for the Artsy Traveler for more in depth information about exploring Madrid.

Map of Madrid

The map shows the location of the six major sites described in this post.

This map was created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Art Museums in Madrid

If you’re an art lover, you’re likely visiting Madrid to tour the Prado, the Reina Sofia, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum of Art—all located in Madrid’s “Golden Triangle of Art.”

The Prado

The Prado is simply wonderful. With over 7,000 paintings in its collection and around 1,500 on display, your artsy heart will be beating wildly. My favorite piece in the Prado is The Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch. It’s even more creepy and surreal in real life than in reproductions.

The Garden of Earthly Delights in the Museo del Prado in Madrid,
by Hieronymus Bosch , c. 1495–1505. — *The Garden of Earthly Delights* in the Museo del Prado in Madrid,
by Hieronymus Bosch , c. 1495–1505.

Other notable works in the Prado include Velasquez’s Las Meninas and other fine works, particularly those of the Spanish royal family, and Goya’s 6th of May and Las pinturas negras (The Black Paintings). You’ll also find great works by El Greco, Rubens, Bruegel, Rembrandt, and van Dyck.

Spare some time for the art of Spanish masters, such as Bartolomé Esteban Murillo and José de Ribera, and the stark figures of Francisco de Zurbarán. I’ve become partial to Zurbarán after seeing a major exhibition of his work in New York a few years ago. His figures are incredibly compelling.

Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

Visit the Thyssen-Bornemisza to see a huge range of art styles and artists spanning the centuries from the Middle Ages to the moderns.

It’s a veritable ‘who’s who’ of western art. Start on the second floor (the top floor) and work your way through the 13th and 14th centuries (my faves), check out the Portrait of King Henry VIII by Holbein the Younger, then stroll past Tintorettos, Titians, Caravaggios, et al.

The Thyssen-Bornemisza also includes masterpieces by van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Goya, Gainsborough, and Gauguin, to name a few. And then there are the moderns—Kandinsky, Picasso, Braque, Dali, and Madrid’s own Juan Gris.

Take your time and soak it all in!

Reina Sofia

You’ll probably want to spread your museum-going over two days. Seeing all three museums in the Golden Triangle in one day would be artsy suicide. Pace yourself!

Visit the Reina Sofia to view Picasso’s powerful Guernica, which he painted to protest the bombing of the Basque town of Guernica during the Spanish Civil War. The painting is displayed in a room of its own. Arrive early or late to view it without the crowds.

The rest of the museum houses an excellent collection of contemporary art, including works by Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró.

Botanical Gardens & Parque del Buen Retiro

I love European gardens, and these two parks adjacent to each other in Madrid are among the best. We spent a lot of time strolling through the botanical gardens to see a glorious display of dahlias (it was September) along with an outdoor exhibition of photographs documenting seminal moments in Spanish history from 1896 to the present.

Some of the shots were just amazing—dead bodies in the streets during the civil war, Franco riding in a car with Nixon, the Beatles wearing matador hats, and on and on—100 photographs. I wish I could have read the commentaries, but my Spanish is just about nil.

The Beatles visit Madrid in Spain — The Beatles visit Madrid!

From the botanical gardens, wander into the main gardens where you’ll come across an artificial lake, exhibition spaces, and monuments, including one to the 191 victims of the 11 March 2004 train bombings in Madrid. You’ll also find lots of trees and shady pathways. The park is a treat!

Plaza Mayor

The grand central square of Madrid is an attractive open space that features imposing architecture and Madrid’s central tourist office. I liked all the archways.

Old Madrid after Dark

Madrid after dark is cooking and intense. Grab a drink and some tapas in an outdoor café and watch the world go by, then wander farther to find another place for dinner. Be careful not to over-order in Madrid! Portions are massive, and much of the food is fried and wrapped in ham. It’s tasty but more than a bit on the stodgy side.

Madrid cuisine, appetizer - hearty food in Spain. — Madrid cuisine can be a bit heavy.

Gregg and I often order one dish to share. The servers don’t mind.

Tour the Royal Palace (Palacio Real)

The Royal Palace in Madrid is the largest palace in western Europe. With 2,800 rooms, it’s almost twice the size of Versailles.

You can tour of the palace to view the only surviving example of a Stradivarius quartet, a portion of the permanent art collection, and the Royal Kitchens (only open to the public since 2017).

Traveling in Spain: Don’t Miss Toledo

Take a day trip from Madrid to explore beautiful Toledo or drive there on your way south.

If you’re driving, head straight for the massive car park at the base of the city. You can’t miss it. Just be sure to note where you parked your car and where you exited. Take pictures of your stall, the floor number, and your exit.

We did not follow this advice and ended up walking miles out of our way late at night.

You can’t help but like Toledo. It’s charming with a capital C.

Perched on a hill, Toledo, the city on a hill, is a World Heritage Site famous for its monuments, its awesome cathedral, and for being the “City of the Three Cultures”, thanks to the cultural influences of Christians, Muslims, and Jews. The city was also the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom from 542 to 725 CE, which is kind of cool.

Here’s Gregg in front of the classic view of Toledo made famous in a painting by El Greco.

In front of the classic view of Toledo, Spain — Gregg Simpson in front of the classic view of Toledo, Spain

Toledo is a popular tour stop, so during the day, you’ll have to dodge busloads of tourists huffing and puffing through the narrow streets in the stifling heat. Scoot around them to get a look inside the stunning cathedral that lives up to the hype.

I was mesmerized by the choir stalls. The carving on each stall is different.

Toledo is the place to buy items made from the famous Toledo steel. Display windows bristle with swords and knives and other sharp things that would never make it through airport security in your carry-on bag. I bought several pairs of sewing scissors as gifts.

Store window display of swords in Toledo — Store window display in Toledo

In the evening, once the tour busses have left, the streets fill with locals. Weave through the streets of the old town in search of tapas and wine. You’ll find plenty!

Traveling in Spain: Visit Off the Beaten Track Zaragoza

You’ll likely visit Zaragoza en route to somewhere else. It makes a convenient stopping point for drivers coming from France through the Pyrenees. You can also break up the drive from Barcelona to Madrid in Zaragoza.

The city is the perfect one-night stop along a desolate stretch of a very large country. And you’ll have a chance to enjoy a virtually tourist-free Spanish city that has a great deal to offer the visitor.

Zaragoza Overview

As the capital of the province of Zaragoza and of the autonomous community of Aragon, Zaragoza is a good size, but the interesting part of the city is compact enough to stroll around with just one inexpensive taxi ride out to the Aljafería Palace.

Here’s a map of the city showing the sights mentioned in this post:

Places mapped by Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

The streets and shops are prosperous-looking, clean, and thronged with locals. You’re unlikely to see many tourists, although you’ll find an air-conditioned and well-staffed tourist office on the main plaza, so obviously tourists do go there.

A friendly young man at the tourist office told us where to go for cut-price tapas that evening. Apparently, there’s a street where all the tapas joints charge just €2 for a tapa and a glass of vino. Count me in!

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar

Zaragoza borders the Ebro River which you’ll probably drive across on your way into town and see again when you visit Zaragoza’s main sight—the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar (#1 on the map).

Cathedral and Ebro River in Zaragoza. Aragon, Spain — Cathedral and Ebro river in Zaragoza. Aragon, Spain

Built between 1681 and 1872, this massive Baroque cathedral with its fabulously tile-topped cupolas and turrets is worth a look. Wander around the vast aisles and check out the highlight—a roomful of paintings by Goya.

Zaragoza is Goya’s hometown, so across from the cathedral is a museum (#2) dedicated to his work. We didn’t visit it on this trip, instead opting to grab a cab to the Aljafería Palace which reportedly dates from Moorish times.

Aljafería Palace

We were virtually alone as we ambled through the various rooms to admire interesting exhibits and take photos of the attractive—and empty—courtyard complete with reflecting pond, palm trees, and arches. The Aljafería Palace (#3) is no Alhambra, but it’s worth a quick look.

In the evening, stroll through streets comfortably filled with locals to find tapas. We arrived at the place of the €2 tapas at 8 pm, only to find it and most others still closed. This is Spain, where things typically don’t get going until well past 9 or 10.

But persevere and you’ll find that even regular-priced tapas are not expensive. Zaragoza is a bargain for food and drink.

We stayed in the Hotel NH Collection Gran Hotel de Zaragoza (#4) which was comfortable albeit a bit bland. But the location was good and we could walk everywhere.

Traveling in Spain: Don’t Miss Lovely Salamanca

Visit Salamanca on your way to or from Portugal. If your accommodation budget extends to a splurge, book into the Parador de Salamanca, located about a fifteen-minute walk from the town.

Cathedral of Salamanca next to the river in Salamanca, Spain — Cathedral of Salamanca next to the river

Paradors in Spain are special hotels usually located in historic buildings, such as convents and palaces. They have a certain level of luxury with prices to match, although bargains can be had. Check the booking sites!

The parador in Salamanca is one of the few modern paradors in Spain. Its main claim to fame is its location overlooking the skyline of old Salamanca.

Here’s the view from our room:

Salamanca is a great place to visit for its old town, fabulous central plaza, and Casa Lis, a marvelous art nouveau museum. Here’s a map of the highlights mentioned in this post.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

Casa Lis Art Nouveau and Art Deco Museum

If you love art deco, you’ll adore this museum. La Casa Lis itself is an extraordinary building in the art nouveau style with plenty of stained glass. Exhibits of over 2,500 pieces of art deco and art nouveau objets d’art include porcelain figures, gold and ivory statues, enamels, bronze items, toys, and even Fabergé eggs.

The display of Paris fashion dolls from the late 1800s was especially compelling. Spend a couple of hours strolling from room to room in the virtually empty museum.

Plaza Mayor

Wander uphill into Salamanca’s lovely old town. Very little car traffic is allowed, so the streets are clear and easy to walk in. As the sun begins to go down, people flood into the streets to enjoy the evening air.

We arrived in the Plaza Mayor to find it packed with thousands of people waving placards. Just as in Madrid, Spain’s austerity measures were not going over well with the citizens of Salamanca. However, the protest was one of the most good-humored I’ve seen. The crowd consisted mostly of families and middle-aged or older people smiling and laughing as they periodically brandished their signs. The gist of most signs was a large, red “NO”.

If you encounter a protest (unlikely!), wait until it moves off , then snag a table to gaze out over what must be one of the loveliest plazas in Spain.

Enjoying Plaza Mayor

The Plaza Mayor appears to be square, lined on all four sides by uniform facades that date from the 18th century. Bands of young men dressed in medieval garb played Mexican-sounding music. We wondered why the music sounded so Mexican and were told by our server that Salamanca has maintained ties with Mexico and Latin America. Apparently, many of the Spanish people who emigrated to Mexico came from Salamanca, and some of the wealthier ones have returned to make Salamanca so prosperous looking. It’s a beautifully maintained city.

Around 10:30, when the light still hadn’t faded much (it was early July), the lights were turned on, and everyone in the square gasped, much to the amusement of our server who just rolled his eyes. I guess he sees it every night.

Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, Spain at night.

Traveling in Spain: Where to Stay in Central Spain

For accommodation suggestions in Madrid, Toledo, Zaragoza, and Salamanca, see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Conclusion

Have you visited the cities described in this post? Leave your comments below. Here are some more Artsy Traveler posts about Spain:

Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks

January 21, 2020December 10, 2024Destinations, Hotel Reviews, Spain, Travel Smart Artsy Traveler 3 Comments

Last updated on December 10th, 2024 at 12:58 am

I’ve had great luck finding marvelous places to stay in Spain. Hotel proprietors are friendly, and almost all of them speak English.

In this post, I provide general tips about accommodations in Spain and then list hotels that I’ve stayed in and can recommend.

Choosing a Room

To Book or Not to Book?

I book almost all the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home so I know I have somewhere to stay in every location. Then, while traveling, I sometimes change bookings to follow a new route or in response to hearing about a cool location I hadn’t known about.

TIP: Stay flexible when you travel. You never know when you might meet someone who recommends a festival or event or exhibition. More than once, I’ve altered an itinerary to attend a special exhibition or visit a new attraction.

Choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book, change, or cancel hotel reservations if your itinerary changes. Most sites offer a no-cancellation option at a lower price. I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel. For example, I will select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from, because I know those locations won’t change.

But overall, stay flexible. I’ve learned that sticking to a rigid itinerary with no-cancellation accommodations can end up costing more money than you save.

Breakfasts in Spain

Breakfasts in Spain generally consist of pastries, fresh fruit, dry cereal, cold meats (lots of ham and salamis), cheeses, and coffee. I only eat the hotel breakfast if it’s included in the room rate or if I didn’t get a chance to buy food before checking in.

If hotel breakfasts cost extra (and the cost can be exorbitant), I buy yogurt and fruit at a local grocery store and then go to a bar or café for my morning cappuccino.

Location

In Spain in particular, I stay in the center of a town or city only if I’m not driving. As I’ve mentioned frequently, driving into medieval towns can be a nightmare, and driving into cities like Barcelona is not recommended!

The advantage of traveling in Spain by public transit is that you can choose to stay in picturesque and historic town centers. Grab a taxi from the train station and let your driver negotiate the tiny alleyways. In Cordoba, even our taxi driver had a hard time finding our hotel deep in the Jewish quarter.

Tips for Drivers in Spain

When driving in Spain, I book places on the outskirts of the town or city and then take busses or taxis into the town for sightseeing. In rural areas, such as Andalusia and Asturias, I search out places located in the gorgeous countryside so I can take walks and, if it’s hot, enjoy a dip in the pool.

Paradors

Consider spending at least a few nights of your vacation at one of Spain’s gorgeous paradors (paradores). A parador is a government-run property selected for its historical and artistic merit or for its location in a beautiful landscape. Over 90 paradors are located throughout Spain.

Some of the paradors are converted palaces, medieval castles, or other historic buildings. The parador experience can be pricey, but it’s definitely worthwhile and interesting. Check the official website to view all the properties available. You can book paradors through the website or on booking.com

Parador of Cuenca - a converted monastery on a cliff east of Madrid — Parador de Cuenca in Cuenca, east of Madrid, is located in an ancient monastery.

Star Rating

I favor three- or four-star properties that offer amenities such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, and WIFI.

I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters will be small, with a child-sized shower stall and barely enough room to wedge your suitcase against the wall.

Reviews – Should You Care?

Yes, I pay attention to reviews. If a property’s aggregate review is under 8.0 out of a possible 10, I usually pass. Sometimes the difference between a property with a 9.6 review and one with an 8.2 review is only a few euros, and yet the quality of the higher-rated property makes the extra money worth spending.

You have to take reviews with a grain of salt, however. Just because a property has a score of 9.8 doesn’t meant it’s five-star luxury. Check the star rating, remember that a 9.8 score for a two-star hotel is not the same as a 9.8 for a four-star, and proceed accordingly.

TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in Spain and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.

For more tips on finding accommodations, read Six Steps to Making Awesome Accommodation Choices in Europe.

Accommodation Options by Region in Spain

To help you plan your Spain getaway, here are my recommendations. For each destination, I describe properties I’ve stayed in and offer suggestions for alternate properties that look good.

Click the link to the hotel to make a reservation with booking.com.

Barcelona

Barcelona is not a budget town by any stretch. Be prepared to spend more than you might like to; fortunately, in my experience, the quality of the accommodations is high.

I recommend two excellent hotels in Barcelona. Both are centrally located and comfortable. The Hotel Emilia is a bit farther from the center of the action, and the rooms are spacious.

The Cram Hotel in the Eixample district has earned a soft spot in my heart, for obvious reasons. It was a splurge, but the rooftop pool, views over Barcelona, and the convenient location made the extra cost well worth it, particularly because I was traveling solo.

Check the map below for other accommodation options in Barcelona. I favor the upscale Eixample district, but you’ll also find good choices in the Barri Gòtic and other areas.

Booking.com

Northern Spain

Santiago de Compostela

The Hotel Virxe da Cerca by Pousadas de Compostela was a marvelous find in Santiago de Compostela. We stayed almost a week when Gregg has his exhibition at the Granell Museum. The hotel is next to the Plaza de Abastos market and an easy walk to the cathedral in the old town. I loved hanging out on the terrace, sipping wine and enjoying the view. The rooms were traditional, with heavy furniture and lots of space. Highly recommended!

Santiago de Compostela attracts thousands of visitors every year, so you’ll find plenty of accommodation options. Santiago de Compostela also has a parador that looks amazing if you’re in the mood for a splurge.

Have a look at the map below for additional accommodation suggestions.

Booking.com

Llanes

We stayed at the Don Paco Hotel, a three-star property set in a restored convent dating from the 17th century. The high-ceilinged dining room that had once been the convent chapel is magnificent! The hotel is within walking distance of central Llanes and includes free parking (always a bonus!).

Bilbao

We enjoyed staying for one night at the Hotel Meliá, a posh splurge but perfectly located for walking along the river to the Guggenheim Bilbao and easy to get to from the highway. The hotel includes an underground parking lot, stylish rooms with a great view over Bilbao, a soaring lobby, and a riverside terrace where we ate breakfast and lunch.

San Sebastian

The Hotel Mercure Monte Igueldo, high atop Mount Igueldo overlooking enchanting San Sebastian (Donostia), is well worth a few extra euros for the view alone. You’ll need a car to stay here and to go down into San Sebastian.

If you’re traveling without a car, here are other options:

Booking.com

Andalusia

Cordoba

Book a place in the Old Town, even if it means leaving your car in a carpark and walking. You’ll be steps from the Cathedral-Mosque and in the thick of history. We stayed in a boutique hotel with a tranquil inner courtyard.

Check the map below to find properties in the center of Cordoba.

Booking.com

Granada

I heartily recommend Suites Gran Via in Granada. The location is convenient to the center of Granada, and the rooms are large and comfortable. A small kitchen is included, which is handy for making breakfast.

The map below shows more options in and around Granada.

Booking.com

Seville

We’ve had great luck in Seville–once staying at a hotel in the old town and most recently staying in an apartment overlooking the river. I recommend you stay in the old town if you’re not driving. The Hotel Amadeus & La Musica is a wonderful choice right in the heart of Old Seville. There’s a rooftop terrace with a stunning view of Seville Cathedral. Gregg spent quite a bit of time up there drawing.

On our 2019 trip, we were driving, so we booked a hotel across the river from downtown Seville. What a great choice! We parked in a public parking lot about half a block from the apartment and enjoyed a spectacular view of the river and Seville Cathedral in the distance. Check out Betis 7 Luxury Apartments. The cost was surprisingly reasonable for an apartment that included a bedroom, kitchen and living room, a jacuzzi bath, and glorious air conditioning (a necessity in July).

Here are other options in Seville.

Booking.com

Ronda

One of the hippest places to stay in Ronda is the Parador de Ronda, pictured at the top of this page. Its spectacular location at the edge of the Ronda gorge comes at a price–but what a splurge!

On our recent trip in 2019, we opted to stay in the countryside about a 15-minute drive from Ronda, and we’re glad we did. The weather was hot, and we needed a place to chill in. The Hotel Cortijo-las-Piletas perfectly fit the bill. They even provided an excellent dinner served in the courtyard on one of the evenings we were there. The proprietor was exceedingly friendly and accommodating. I can’t recommend this place highly enough.

Here are more options in Ronda.

Booking.com

Central Spain

Following are suggestions for hotels in Madrid, Toledo, Zaragoza, and Salamanca.

Madrid

The Suites Viena are spacious and well located near the Plaza España that featured lots of cool booths filled with jewelry and other gift items.

I also highly recommend the ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini located just to the west of the center of Madrid and across the street from the Royal Palace.. It’s located just outside the Limited Access zone on a main road easily accessed from the motorway, and a short walk from the historical center of Madrid.

Here are other options in Madrid:

Booking.com

Toledo

The Abad Toledo at the base of the hill and very convenient to a massive multi-level car park is a great choice for drivers. If you arrive by train, choose a place in the Old Town that you can get to by taxi.

On the map below, choose places on the city side of the river.

Booking.com

Zaragoza

The NH Collection Gran Hotel Zaragoza is a comfortable business hotel in Sangallo Palace that includes balconies, views, and what looks like a lovely ambiance near Perugia.

Salamanca

Treat yourself to the Parador in Salamanca. The rooms are large, the pool inviting, and views over Salamanca breathtaking. The Parador is a great choice for drivers because it’s on the outskirts of the city. You can walk into Salamanca or take a bus or taxi.

Tours & Tickets in Spain

Here are some options to explore through GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com, both companies I’ve booked with several times, and had good experiences.

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Do you have accommodation recommendations to share? Please let me know in the Comments section. I’m always on the lookout for new places to stay in Spain.

Here are some more posts about Spain:

Recommended Itinerary to Explore Italy’s Campania in 7 Days

January 9, 2020October 10, 2024Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on October 10th, 2024 at 09:10 pm

The Campania region of southern Italy is packed with so many interesting things to see and do that a week might not be enough.

But given the choice between a week in the Campania and two days, I recommend a week. I’ve explored the region both ways, and a week is better!

In this post, a present a suggested itinerary that includes three nights in Naples, two nights in Sorrento, and two nights in Positano on the Amalfi coast.

If you have more time or you’re driving I recommend skipping the Amalfi coast and heading straight for Paestum.

Getting Around Campania

Driving in this area is not for the faint-hearted and not the best idea unless you’re coming from another region of Italy and already have a car.

My suggested itinerary includes a combination of public transit and small group tours.

Another option is to spend the entire week in Sorrento, which is located between Naples and the Amalfi coast, and take day trips from there. You’ll spend more time commuting, but you could save money on restaurant meals by renting an apartment for the week. Plus, there’s something to be said for coming back every evening to the charming ambiance of one of southern Italy’s most beguiling towns.

Looking over the Mediterranean from Sorrento

Highlights of your week include visits to Vesuvius, Pompeii and Herculaneum, the Isle of Capri and the Blue Grotto, and the towns of Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi on the stunning Amalfi Coast.

Day 1: Arrive in Naples

Naples is kind of crazy, which is part of its charm.

Take the train directly from Rome and then take a taxi from the Naples train station to your hotel. I recommend staying in the Plebiscito area and splurging on a hotel that includes a sweeping view of the Bay of Naples with Vesuvius steaming gently in the distance.

View over the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius. — Stunning view over the Bay of Naples

On your first afternoon, take a taxi to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (the National Archeological Museum) which contains one of the world’s finest collections of Greco-Roman artifacts.

Read my post detailing some of the highlights of this fantastic museum: How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.

A Naples Art Card offers discounted entry into the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and several other major museums in Naples.

Other sites in Naples include the opulent Palazzo Reale located in the Piazza del Plebiscito and the nearby Castel Nuovo. From the top of the castle ramparts, you’ll enjoy stunning views of Naples and the harbor.

In the evening, stroll through the atmospheric Santa Lucia district–a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets winding from just west of the Piazza del Plebiscito down to the sea.

And eat pizza! You’re in the birthplace of pizza, and Neapolitan pizza is the best of the best.

Pizza for lunch in Naples: thin, crispy, delicious

Safety in Naples

Are you safe in Naples? The city has a reputation for petty crime, but how dangerous is it for the tourist? This article gives you the lowdown, but the short answer is yes, you’re safe in Naples.

Tours in Naples

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Days 2 & 3: Mt. Vesuvius and Ruins

You could probably “do” Vesuvius, Pompeii, and Herculaneum in a day, but I don’t recommend it. Instead, consider two separate day tours–one that takes in Vesuvius and another that covers Herculaneum and Pompeii or whatever combination of the three sites works. For example, find small group tours to Vesuvius and Pompeii, or Pompeii and Herculaneum, or Herculaneum and Vesuvius.

The key is to save yourself stress by taking guided tours to these incredible sites. It’s possible to see them via public transit, but unless your budget is really tight, I suggest you give your day over to an experienced guide and then sit back and soak up the landscape and the history.

Here are a few tour and skip-the-line ticket options for the area:

Vesuvius

I first scaled Vesuvius in a chair lift on a bitterly cold December day. The views were spectacular as was the proximity to the smoking crater. Nowadays, you’ll have to hike uphill for a steep 30 minutes to reach the summit. From there, circumnavigate the crater’s lip to enjoy jaw-dropping views of Naples, the aqua Mediterranean, and Pompeii.

In 79 AD, Vesuvius blew up and buried the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum. For eighteen hours, the mountain spewed ash, dust and rocks twelve miles into the sky. The poor folks in Pompeii and Herculaneum didn’t have a chance.

Visit Vesuvius and Pompeii with Rick Steves in this article.

Pompeii

The most poignant thing about Pompeii is its frozen-in-time quality. Volcanic ash has preserved the bodies of people and animals twisted in the final throes of death.

You also get a remarkable look at everyday life. You’ll see electoral propaganda messages painted on walls, elegant villas, modest houses, peasant dwellings, and even squalid brothels. Walk through narrow lanes to see the remains of workshops complete with furniture, tools, lamps, and foodstuffs. One of my favorite things was seeing the ruts cut into the stone roads by chariot wheels.

Frescoes decorate the walls of Casa della Fontana Piccola in Pompeii. — Amazing frescoes decorate the walls of Casa della Fontana Piccola in Pompeii.

You need to spend at least an afternoon, preferably an entire day, in Pompeii. If you’re a big fan of Roman ruins, choose a day tour that gives you plenty of time to wander around the excavated areas and the museum.

Herculaneum

Allow yourself time to visit Herculaneum. Although smaller than Pompeii, Herculaneum is richer, with larger houses, more impressive mosaics, and better-preserved ruins.

More complete houses remain because the ash from Vesuvius destroyed Herculaneum in a different way than it did Pompeii. In Pompeii, falling ash collapsed many of the roofs, whereas the ash fell more slowly over Herculaneum, covering and preserving wood and other organic objects.

Herculaneum is less crowded than Pompeii and much smaller, with better frescoes and mosaics. However, much of the city is yet to be excavated.

Days 4 & 5: Sorrento

Getting to Sorrento

Take the train to the charming town of Sorrento or catch the ferry from Naples.

We took a taxi from our hotel in Naples and got into trouble when the driver demanded payment upon our arrival at the hotel in Sorrento. I’d already paid the manager of the hotel in Naples for the taxi. Unfortunately, we’d mistakenly taken the wrong taxi at the Naples hotel.

The driver spoke only Italian and was very angry with the stupid tourists who didn’t want to pay twice for the ride. Fortunately, the manager of the hotel in Sorrento called the Naples manager, and, after much yelling and gesticulating, during which time I was sure blows would be traded, everything was sorted out. The taxi driver grudgingly shook our hands and presumably drove back to Naples to get his money.

I haven’t taken the ferry to Sorrento, but it seems like a great option. The ride is scenic and takes only 45 minutes. Purchase tickets here.

Hanging Out in Sorrento

Lemon trees and palm trees, houses clinging to cliffs, the turquoise Mediterranean–this area of southern Italy is postcard-perfect.

And Sorrento makes the perfect home base to explore the area.

Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast, Italy — Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast

The whole point of Sorrento is to slow down and relax. Amble along the small streets and enjoy la dolce vita. If you’re into shopping, Sorrento is the place to buy inlaid wooden boxes. I still have the wooden music box I bought on my first trip to Sorrento in the 1970s.

Sorrento is also a good place to buy cameos. Unfortunately, I lost the pink cameo I bought there. I still miss that cameo.

In the early evening, join the locals for the passeggiata. Families and couples dress up and stroll the shady streets, talking and laughing, gelatos in hand. The bars are full, and everything seems right with the world.

Visiting Capri

If the weather is fine, book a boat tour to the fabled Isle of Capri and its Blue Grotto. Yes, Capri can get crowded, but it’s drop-dead gorgeous, with its white limestone cliffs, azure ocean views, and tumbling gardens. Catch an early hydrofoil from Sorrento to avoid the cruise-ship crowds that clog the streets by midday.

A visit to Capri’s Blue Grotto is worth the time and effort required to get there, even if you’re only in the grotto soaking up the blue for a few minutes. The Blue Grotto is a sea cave famous for its luminous blue light and shimmering waters accessible only in a tiny dinghy through a narrow entranceway.

Duck!

A boat you catch on Capri stops at the grotto and waits while you board the dinghy and are rowed into the grotto. If you’re prone to seasickness, pop a Gravol before leaving the dock in Capri.

Scrambling into the little dingy from the larger boat can be either entertaining or terrifying, depending on your fitness level and tolerance for danger. I didn’t ask the guide how many people fall into the water every year. I suspect he wouldn’t have wanted to tell me.

The Blue Grotto is open year round, weather permitting. I visited on a sunny day in late December.

Days 6 & 7: Positano

Continue home-basing in Sorrento and take a day trip down the Amalfi coast, or pull stakes and make Positano your home for two nights. I suggest the latter to give you a more intimate feel for this charming town that tumbles down the cliff to the Mediterranean. Devote a day to visiting the town of Amalfi to view its colorful houses and stroll the beach.

Positano and romance go hand in hand. Did you ever see Only You with Marisa Tomei? The scenes shot in Positano are some of the movie’s most beautiful. If you have a lot of money, stay at the Sirenuse Hotel where scenes from the movie were shot.

Visit Positano to steep yourself in beauty. Wander the tiny streets, gaze out at the views, snap hundreds of photos, eat great food, and just relax.

Or Go to Paestum!

If you’re driving, skip Positano and the Amalfi Coast and head farther south to marvelous Paestum. Here, you’ll find some of the best-preserved Greek ruins in the world (including n Greece!). I really enjoyed spending a few days in this lovely area of southern Italy.

Greek temple in Paestum in southern Italy

Where to Stay in Campania

For accommodation suggestions in Naples, Sorrento, Positano, and Paestum see Recommended Places to Stay in Italy That Will Make Great Memories.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Campania? Add your suggestions in the comments below. For more posts about Italy, check out:

Exploring San Gimignano in Tuscany

December 30, 2019October 16, 2024Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler 4 Comments

Last updated on October 16th, 2024 at 11:42 pm

San Gimignano is Tuscany’s city of towers and an entrancing place that I never tire of exploring. I’ve visited San Gimignano numerous times and even set my first novel there (The Towers of Tuscany).

Yes, plenty of crowds surge through San Gimignano, especially on hot summer days. You’ll also find loads of tourist dreck in the shops. But unlike some of Italy’s most visited cities (think Florence!), San Gimignano manages to retain its medieval charm.

I’ve nowhere near stopped loving it!

San Gimignano Snapshot

Even if you visit San Gimignano on the most tourist-heavy days, you need only walk a few paces away from the main thoroughfare (Via San Giovanni) to find yourself virtually alone in a quiet back street. Hear birds twittering and watch an old guy sweeping his front stoop.

The small side streets in San Gimignano are quiet and crowd-free.

The heaving, sweating, shopping masses of humanity packing the piazzas and dripping gelato on the cobblestones are a distant memory.

Map of San Gimignano

Here’s a map of San Gimignano. It’s a very small and walkable city. You can cross it from gate to gate in about fifteen minutes.

Trip map created using Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android

Welcome to the 14th Century

You’re in the 14th century! Your long gown swishes around your legs, you listen for the bells that divide your days and regulate your life.

If you’re a woman, you might be on your way to the baker for a loaf of fresh bread or to the church to make confession. If you’re a man, you could be meeting a kinsman to settle a festering vendetta or to chat with a fellow guild member about the crocus trade.

In the Middle Ages, much of San Gimignano’s wealth came from the cultivation of saffron from the stamens of crocuses. Also lucrative was textile manufacturing and the production of Vernaccia, a lovely white wine still produced today (it’s very good!).

Walk up to the ruined fortezza. There, you’ll not only rarely find many tourists, you’ll enjoy this stunning view of the towers of San Gimignano.

When you walk the back streets of San Gimignano in the 21st century, you’re only an ounce of imagination away from the Middle Ages.

View of the city of San Gimignano, Italy

The Towers of San Gimignano

San Gimignano is called the Tuscan city of towers because 14 medieval towers are still standing. In its heyday in the 14th century, over 72 towers dominated San Gimignano’s skyline.

Why So Many Towers?

Every medieval city had towers back in the day, but San Gimignano is unique because so many of its towers remain. Why so many towers? We can safely assume that the medieval merchants didn’t build them to give 21st-century tourists something to point their iPhones at.

Wealthy citizens frequently competed with each other to build the tallest towers above their homes. In fact, the Podesta passed a law prohibiting any private citizen from building a tower higher than the Torre Grossa, the municipal hall which survives to this day.

The citizens of San Gimignano were a bellicose lot who sometimes attacked and destroyed towers belonging to their rivals. The family feuds that form the basis of the Romeo and Juliet story were definitely not fiction. Vendetta and its accompanying violence were the all-too-common ways to resolve differences.

History of San Gimignano

The Etruscans first settled San Gimignano in the 4th century BC. Significant growth did not occur until 1000 to 1200. Thanks to its proximity to the Via Francigena, a major route across Italy, San Gimignano was an important stopover for travelers, pilgrims, and merchants. The town became steadily more prosperous until it declared itself a free Commune in 1199.

In 1300, Dante Alighieri came to San Gimignano, and in 1317 the famous painter Lippo Memmi opened a workshop. With his father, Lippo Memmi painted a fresco cycle in the town hall that you can see today. I include the frescoes in my post on Art Masterpieces in Tuscany You Don’t Want to Miss and below – see Frescoes, Frescoes, and More Frescoes.

San Gimignano prospered until the mid-14th century when in 1348 it was devastated by the plague, also known as the Black Death. More than half of the population died in a six-month period.

Following the pestilence that also ravaged most of western Europe, San Gimignano never recovered its former glory and at the end of the 14th century was finally obliged to submit to Florentine rule.

The town’s website provides an excellent overview of San Gimignano’s rise and fall over the centuries.

What To See in San Gimignano

San Gimignano’s main attraction is the town itself–the cobbled streets, the towers, the Tuscan ambience. But you’ll also find several worthwhile attractions to explore, including my favorite, San Gimignano 1300.

San Gimignano 1300

The San Gimignano 1300 (#1) museum contains an amazing scale model of San Gimignano as it appeared in the year 1300 with its 72 towers intact.

Not long after I started my novel, The Towers of Tuscany, about a woman painter in the 14th century, I came across the website for San Gimignano 1300. I could not believe my luck! Someone had very thoughtfully recreated the entire city in which much of the novel’s action takes place.

I had to see it! A few months after I found San Gimignano 1300 on the web, I was there in person. Few things get in the way of an historical novelist on a research warpath!

A portion of the scale model of San Gimignano at San Gimignano 1300

San Gimignano 1300 moved to a smaller venue a few years after I first saw it. The model is now divided into two sections, but you still get a good sense of how the city must have looked in 1300.

The staff at San Gimignano 1300 are lovely. I’ve returned several times in the last few years to replenish their supply of The Towers of Tuscany.

With the manager of San Gimignano 1300 where The Towers of Tuscany is available — With the manager of San Gimignano 1300 where *The Towers of Tuscany* is available

Frescoes, Frescoes, and More Frescoes

Unlike many Italian towns, San Gimignano is stuck in a medieval time warp. Most of the best art was created during the Middle Ages rather than the Renaissance. I’m a medieval girl at heart and prefer the flatter, more stylized work of the medieval painters to the florid, somewhat over-produced paintings of the Renaissance.

Museo Civico

The first stop for art lovers should be the frescoes in the Museo Civico. Painted by Memmo de Filippuccio and his son Lippo Memmi in 1317, the frescoes portray scenes of everyday life. Such scenes were a rarity at a time when the vast majority of frescoes and paintings depicted religious subjects.

I like best the two scenes showing a newly married couple first enjoying a communal bath together (ooh la la) and then climbing into bed.

Detail from a fresco by Memmo de Filippuccio & Lippo Memmi in the Museo Civico in San Gimignano

The scene depicting the couple getting into bed shows them as naked. While researching The Towers of Tuscany, I learned that people often slept naked to get a break from the wee beasties that infested their heavy gowns. Also, I imagine that summers in San Gimignano were as hot in the 14th century as they are today.

Another fabulous fresco in the Museo Civico is The Maestà by Lippo Memmi. Commissioned in 1317, the fresco is said to have been inspired by Simone Martini’s Maestà from the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena. The fresco shows Mary seated on a throne surrounded by adoring saints and angels.

Frescoes in the Duomo

Other frescoes worth seeing in San Gimignano cover the walls of the Duomo (#2) in the Piazza Duomo in the town center. One set, painted by Bartolo di Fredi in 1356, depicts scenes from the Old Testament. I particularly like the figure of Noah lying drunk on the ground, his gown open to reveal that he is definitely not wearing his boxer shorts. There’s nothing new under the sun!

Another set of frescoes depicting Hell was painted by Benozzo Gozzoli in 1465. The frescoes are terrifyingly realistic. You might want to avoid them if you’re traveling with children.

Torre Grossa

The tallest tower in San Gimignano, at 54 meters (178 feet), is the Torre Grossa (#3), part of the Palazzo Comunale where the Museo Civico is housed. It’s worth the effort to climb to the top and see the stunning view. If it’s a fine day, go early or late to avoid the crowds.

San Gimignano at Night

Ahhhh….! The tour buses have puffed their way down the hill, the shops are shuttered, and peace descends. Thanks to floodlit towers, the darkness never gets close to the black intensity of the olden days, but your imagination can still get a workout.

Enjoy a lovely meal at one of San Gimignano’s restaurants and then walk off the pasta and wine with a stroll through the quiet piazzas. The later it gets, the quieter the streets become. And, unlike in the 14th century, walking the streets of San Gimignano after dark is not dangerous. No assassins are intent on revenging a vendetta; no watchmen are standing by to clamp into irons people ignoring curfews.

Some guides to San Gimignano mention the two torture museums. I don’t get the point of these sensationalist “attractions” and avoid them at all costs.

Yes, we know punishments were harsh in the Middle Ages. They’re no picnic nowadays in many parts of the world, but I doubt we help matters much by ogling gruesome displays of pain. I say don’t give them your euros.

You should stay in San Gimignano for at least two days and one night. Most bus tours pop in and out for a few hours, staying just long enough for people to sip a cappuccino, climb a tower, and go shopping.

If you really want to experience San Gimignano, stay a while, preferably at one of the lovely hotels in the nearby countryside.

Piazza della Cisterna in San Gimignano at night

For accommodation recommendations, see Where to Stay in Italy.

The Towers of Tuscany

San Gimignano is one of two main settings in my novel, The Towers of Tuscany. Here’s what my main character, Sofia Carelli, thinks about San Gimignano after an afternoon spent painting in secret at the top of one of the towers:

Sofia pushed back from the table and rose to her feet. Massaging with one hand a knot in her shoulder, she stepped to the narrow window. Between the two closest towers, the countryside beyond the town was just visible as a slit of green and gold.

The commune of San Gimignano fairly bristled with towers. Just the other day, Sofia had counted more than seventy. Day after day, the pounding and clanging of endless construction filled the air, along with dust so thick that on windless afternoons citizens squinted across the Piazza della Cisterna.

When to Visit

The best times to visit San Gimignano are late spring when the surrounding countryside is drenched in the freshest greens imaginable and in September/October when golden light and crisp days make sightseeing a pleasure.

Just remember to take along a rain jacket and a sweater.

Tours to San Gimignano

Here are some tours that include San Gimignano. If you’re short on time, then taking a tour that drops you at the gates of this enchanting city is certainly better than not visiting at all!

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