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A modern brick building housing the Museum of English Rural Life, surrounded by greenery and a clear blue sky.

Enjoying the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England

Arts & Culture, Destinations, England, Europe, Museums Artsy Traveler 2 Comments on Enjoying the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:16 pm

This must-see museum of thoughtfully curated exhibits showcases the history of life in rural England.

Eight galleries and an impressive open storage area present artifacts and commentary related to the traditions and challenges related to food production in the English countryside.

I spent a wonderful afternoon at this museum in Reading with associate director Isabel Hughes, who graciously answered my many questions about the museum and then took me on a guided tour.

Collage with two images: the top shows a scenic canal lined with red brick buildings, blooming flower baskets, and a bright blue sky. The bottom features the Museum of English Rural Life sign at the University of Reading, with a red-brick building and leafy surroundings in the background. Overlayed text reads 'Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England' and 'artsytraveler.com' in white on a magenta banner.

This place is a real Artsy Traveler find! And fair warning: this is a LONG post because there is just so much to write about.

Some Background

I lived in Reading for three years a few decades ago. During that time, I attended the University of Reading where I earned my BA in English Language and Literature.

I hadn’t returned to Reading since I graduated, so on a recent trip to England from my home near Vancouver, BC, I decided to make Reading my first stop after flying to Heathrow from Vancouver.

I wasn’t sure what I planned to do during my one afternoon in Reading. I googled museums and discovered the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) run by my alma mater, the University of Reading.

I had never heard of MERL, although Isabel told me the museum was established in 1951 and did indeed exist when I attended the university in the 1970s.

In 2004, the museum moved to its spacious new digs in the former St. Andrew’s Hall, one of the student residences that was around during my time at the university.

Since its expansion, MERL has established itself as one of the United Kingdom’s premier destinations at which to learn about English rural life.

Why I Wanted to Visit the Museum of English Rural Life

I decided to visit MERL for two reasons.

First, it’s a niche museum and as such is a perfect candidate for featuring on Artsy Traveler.

Although I often write about blockbuster museums such as the Rijksmuseum, National Gallery of London, and the Uffizi, my heart beats particularly fast when I discover an off-the-beaten-track museum that my readers may not know about, and that fits with my interests.

The second reason I wanted to visit is because one of my novels titled Hidden Voices is partially set in Devon in the 1880s.

Eliza, my main character, must move with her family from a bucolic rural life in Devon to the “dark, satanic mills” of northern England where most of the novel takes place. In the scenes set in Devon, I wanted to sprinkle in a few more details about rural life that I hoped to find at MERL.

And I wasn’t disappointed! This extensive museum dedicated to farming practices and rural life is a hidden gem—and admission is free or by donation.

Arrival at the Museum of English Rural Life

A few hours prior to visiting MERL, I land at Heathrow after a smooth eight-hour flight from Vancouver. Twenty minutes after deplaning, I’m standing, phone in hand, searching for my Uber.

Most of that time has been taken up with long, long walks through long, long corridors, many rides up and down long escalators and a two-minute wait to go through the electronic customs kiosk.

Since my flight has arrived an hour early, I take the Uber to my hotel before heading to the museum. I’m staying at the Hotel Malmaison (#1 on the map) in downtown Reading, which I highly recommend. After freshening up, I decide to walk the 22 minutes from the hotel to MERL (#2). Here’s a map of Reading:

Along the way, I expect to take a few jaunts down memory lane, but alas, it isn’t to be. Nothing looks the same as I remember from the 1970s—not even close. The Reading skyline bristles with new buildings designed by architects who likely hadn’t been born when I was studying at the university.

When I lived in Reading, there was hardly anywhere to get coffee, much less enjoy a meal. We existed on copious amounts of strong tea; coffee bars were unheard of. And as for eating out, it just wasn’t done, or at least very rarely. Now, every other establishment in Reading serves food, or so it seems as I stroll past the cafes and restaurants in the downtown area.

Along the way, I cross over the Kennet-Avon canal which looks serene and well-groomed in the late August sunshine.

Kennet and Avon Canal in Reading
Kennet-Avon canal in Reading

When I arrive at MERL, associate director Isabel Hughes meets me and, over a very welcome cup of tea, we start our chat.

The Interview

Here’s a summary of my interview with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) at the University of Reading in England.

Carol

What is the purpose of the Museum of English Rural Life?

Isabel

The purpose of the museum is to present exhibits and objects that help visitors understand the human side of English rural life: the production of food, farming practices since the 19th century, and the changing countryside. We like to present the human side of rural life and really celebrate working people since the vast majority of people in the 19th century and into the 20th century either worked on the land or in mills, or were servants.

Farming practices began to change in the late 19th century because of the agricultural depression caused by wheat production in Canada.

Carol

That’s very interesting because in my novel Mill Song, my main character’s family moves from Devon because there is no more farm labor work for the men. I thought it was because of mechanization that jobs became scarce, but there was also an agricultural depression. It’s interesting that Canada was to blame! A lot of people, including many of my ancestors, emigrated from a rural life in the West Country to Canada during the 19th century.

Isabel

MERL was started by the Agriculture Department at the University of Reading in 1951. World War II had ended and there was a push to make agriculture more self-sufficient and productive with the use of insecticides and the development of large farms. But as a result, traditional farming practices were being lost.

The founders of the museum realized this and decided to collect items such as old wagons and hand tools. They went to agricultural shows and talked to farmers, and acquired examples of traditional crafts such as basketry, woodworking, and bodging (making things such as brooms and chairs out of unseasoned green wood).

In 2004, the museum moved to its present location in the former St. Andrew’s Hall of residence, helped in part by funding from Alfred Palmer, a well-known Reading businessperson.

Carol

I well remember taking my exams at Reading University in the Palmer Building! He was quite the benefactor.

What is your number one recommendation for touring the museum?

Isabel

We like people to have a wander and see it all. The huge collection of wagons is particularly impressive. We have wagons from almost every county in England.

An old wagon in the Museum of English Rural Life
One of the many wagons at MERL, this one from Dorset

People can explore the eight galleries and then go upstairs to view our open storage of the thousands of items the museum has collected over the years.

Attached to each artifact is a luggage label; these were the original labels affixed when the artifact was acquired by the museum.

A large collection of farm implements in the open storage area of the museum
A large collection of farm implements in the open storage area of the museum

Another thing that we want people to notice is the textile wall hanging created for the Countryside Pavilion at the Festival of Britain in 1951. It was one of several we acquired. The one on display depicts Cheshire and cheese production.

An enormous wall hanging featuring cheshire and cheese production at the Museum of English Rural Life
An enormous wall hanging featuring Cheshire and cheese production

Carol

What is your favorite exhibit and why?

Isabel

I think my favorite is a pitchfork that was grown in a hedgerow. A branch growing off the shrub was nurtured until it was just the right size and shape for a pitchfork.

It’s made by nature but guided by hand.

A pitchfork grown in a hedgerow at the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England.
Isabel’s favorite, a pitchfork grown from a hedgerow

Carol

What are some of the hidden gems that visitors should check out at MERL?

Isabel

The display of friendly society pole heads is intriguing. A friendly society was a cooperative that workers bought into. If they had a rough time, then the cooperative could help to support them. The pole heads were elaborately carved and resembled pub signs. They were carried in processions such as church parades.

A collection of silver pole heads that resemble English pub signs
Some of the silver pole heads in the MERL collection

Carol

Is this place the only rural museum in England?

Isabel

It is one of the earliest museums but not the only one. There is a rural museum network that includes small community museums. Other large museums like MERL are the National Museum of Rural Life in Scotland and the St. Fagan’s National Museum of History in Wales. There is also the Weald and Downland Living Museum near Chichester, which is where Repair Shop is filmed. We like to think of MERL as the national rural museum for England, but it is not, officially.

Carol

Isabel

We’ve had images from the wall hangings turned into merchandise such as mugs, pencil cases, notebooks, tea towels and bags. We also have tea towels depicting engineering drawings of farm machinery, which are very popular with enthusiasts who are interested in recreating rural farm machinery.

Carol

Are any new exhibits planned?

Isabel

We have quite a few artifacts related to the Roma people that are often not labeled as such. These include photographs of people working the land, and a gypsy wagon. We are starting to re-label these artifacts to feature the history of the Roma people in the English countryside.

A gypsy wagon at the Museum of English Rural Life
A gypsy wagon

Carol

Anything else you’d like to share?

Isabel

At MERL, we have an extensive library and archives containing a wealth of stories. Of particular note is our archive of letters that children evacuees during World War II sent to their parents when they were evacuated from the cities to the countryside. Reading was one of the hubs for evacuee children. Some of the letters were positive, depicting the experience as active and fun, while others were from children who were upset and even mistreated.

The labels affixed to the children when they were put on the train to go into the countryside inspired Michael Bond to write the Paddington Bear books in the 1950s.

A group of children being evacuated from the city during World War II
A group of children being evacuated from the city during World War II

Touring the Museum Galleries

After our chat, Isabel takes me around the museum. Seeing it after talking with her really brings it to life. Throughout the galleries are interactive activities for children. MERL has an active school program and welcomes over 50,000 visitors a year, likely a good proportion of them families.

I love the sheep clad in an Aran sweater in the first main gallery.

A large stuffed sheep wearing an Aran sweater
A large stuffed sheep wearing an Aran sweater greets visitors to the first large gallery

The size of MERL surprises me. The galleries go on forever, each one more chock-a-block with artifacts than the last. You can spend a lot of time here!

One of the very large galleries at the Museum of English Rural Life
One of the very large galleries at the Museum of English Rural Life

Land Girls

I’m particularly taken by the collection of objects and photographs related to the Land Girls—young women who worked on the farms during World War II. Here are photographs of several Land Girls and the uniform they wore.

Photograph of five Land Girls, young women who worked the farms during WW II
Land Girls in World War II

Photograph of the uniform worn by Land Girls, young women who worked the farms during WW II
Land Girls uniform in World War II

The Land Girls experience inspired Land Girls, a British TV series available on Netflix.

Traps

A sobering exhibit features various traps—both for animals and people. The two human traps are particularly horrifying. Anyone caught in one would likely die a very slow and painful death. These traps were placed to prevent poaching.

Two traps used prior to 1827 to catch poachers
Human traps, fortunately outlawed in 1827.

We spend almost an hour roaming through the galleries and viewing the open storage collections on the first floor. I’m very impressed with both the size and the quality of the exhibits and am reminded how, in another life, I would have loved to have been a museum curator.

But being a novelist and travel blogger is also good—and MERL ticks the boxes on both fronts. I’m finding plenty of inspiration for the country scenes in Mill Song. The open storage collection of smocks, many beautifully embellished with traditional smocking, reminds me of what some of my characters may have worn. I can also imagine my main character wearing a bonnet, such as the ones displayed, while she helped with the harvest.

Several smocks hanging in open storage at the Museum of Rural Life
These smocks were likely worn for special occasions

A collection of bonnets worn by women on farms in the 19th century
Bonnets in open storage

New Inspiration

To my delight, MERL sparks inspiration for a new novel based around the story of two evacuees in World War II. After my meeting with Isabel, I scribble several pages of notes about possible characters and plots. It looks like I’m going to have to return to MERL to comb through their extensive archive of letters written by evacuees during World War II.

I can only imagine what treasures await.

As the museum gets set to close, Isabel and I pose for a photo, I purchase a notebook that shows a detail from the Cheshire wall hanging, and say my good-byes.

Carol Cram and Isabel Hughes, co-director of the Museum of English Rural Life
Carol Cram with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life

I walk back to my hotel, enjoy an excellent dinner, and then, finally, turn the lights out at 9. My first day in the UK has been a success.

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in southern England. Most depart from London.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Conclusion

The Museum of English Rural Life is a specialty museum with broad appeal. Touring a museum dedicated to how food was produced back in the day reminds us of our rural roots–and everyone eats food! No matter where you come from, chances are good that at least a few of your ancestors had something to do with agriculture.

The opening times of Museum of English Rural Life are from 10am to 5pm daily and entrance is free. It is located at 6 Redlands Road in Reading, Berkshire. The museum’s extensive website showcases its many exhibits.

Have you visited this museum or another like it? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

Other Specialty Museums on Artsy Traveler

Carol Cram on the beach looking joyous

Top Ten Ways to Joyously Experience Traveling in Europe

Arts & Culture, Destinations, Europe, Travel Smart Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Top Ten Ways to Joyously Experience Traveling in Europe

Last updated on January 18th, 2025 at 01:17 am

In the aftermath of the pandemic, everyone and their cousin who wants to travel and can travel is heading for Europe. Recently, Italy was named the number one tourist destination in the world, with France close behind. Many destinations are full to bursting with visitors, which means sold-out accommodations, packed beaches, and museums filled to the rafters.

Some communities, such as Barcelona and Malaga in Spain, and Santorini in Greece, have even launched campaigns to limit the number of tourists permitted to invade their hometowns at any one time.

Pinterest graphic with the text top ten ways to joyously experience traveling in Europe over a photograph of a signpost with european countries pointing in different directions such as france, germany, italy, etc.

Introduction

I’ve experienced my share of crowds all flocking to experience the same iconic sites—the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, the Uffizi in Florence, the Colosseum in Rome, the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Thousands surge into spaces meant for hundreds, each holding aloft a smartphone to capture the moment.

The joys of travel—discovering new places, meeting new people, learning new things, enjoying great art—quickly dwindle in the face of relentless crowds, inflated prices, and grumpy locals.

Interacting with Locals

When you travel to a new place, consider looking for opportunities to interact with locals instead of lining up for the big-ticket sites. Sample local food, check out off-the-beaten path museums and galleries, meet local artists and artisans, go to local concerts, ride public transit, and wander around back streets where local people live.

You can do all these things in even the most heavily-touristed destinations if you’re willing to zig away from the crowds rather than zag towards them. Doing so may require you to skip the most famous—and crowded—sites. But the rewards more than make up for any lingering feelings of FOMO (Fear of Missing Out).

Here are my top ten ways to joyously enjoy your European travels.

1.    Check Restaurant Reviews

Chances are you’re traveling with a smartphone. Use it to find restaurants that fellow travelers and especially locals have rated highly. Ever since I started checking reviews and purposely choosing restaurants instead of wandering the streets in hopes of finding a place, I’ve enjoyed numerous awesome dining experiences.

In fact, I can safely say that almost every highly rated restaurant I’ve eaten at in Europe in the last few years was a winner.

A Parisian café is a great place to people watch while enjoying a trip to Europe

Search Criteria

I search for restaurants that have at least a 4.5-star average review and then read what people say about the quality of the food and the service. If most of the best reviews are in the local language, that’s a plus because it means the restaurant is well frequented by locals.

Make Reservations

Once I’ve made my choice, I visit the restaurant’s website and call to reserve a table or use the online booking system if it’s available. I’ve found in recent years that reservations are essential in many popular places. Without one, you may well be wandering for quite some time before finding a well-reviewed restaurant with available tables.

Note that during busy periods, you may have better luck choosing a reservation time when the restaurant opens (usually 7 or 8 pm, depending on the location). Europeans tend to eat dinner later than North Americans. If you make a reservation for 7 pm, you may well have the restaurant to yourself.

A good rule of thumb in any big European city is to steer clear of restaurants that are full of tour groups reading multi-lingual plasticated menus in high-rent locations such as the Piazza Navona in Rome.

Walk a few blocks away from the busy areas to quiet side streets and you’ll find favorite local restaurants with superb food.

Ask a Local for Recommendations

Another good strategy is to ask your hotel to recommend a local restaurant and then make a reservation for you. Every time we’ve gone to a restaurant recommended by our hotel, we’ve had a great meal.

For a giggle, check out what happened to me when I did not follow my own advice in Bella Roma Rip-off, one of the pieces in Pastel & Pen: Two Ways of Seeing, a collaboration of my writing with Gregg Simpson’s artwork. Gregg is an artist and my husband and usual travel companion.

2.    Seek Out Lesser-Known Museums

Your sightseeing time is precious. Instead of spending it waiting in long lines, seek out museums and other sites that may be less well known but are just as interesting (sometimes more so) and considerably less crowded. These days, you’ll stand in line to tour the big sites even if you book ahead. On a recent trip to Pompeii, I lined up for forty minutes to get my skip-the-line ticket that I’d purchased online days earlier, and then lined up for another twenty minutes in the skip-the-line line to get into Pompeii.

Instead of sweating in the queue outside the Louvre in Paris, visit the lovely Rodin Museum.

In Amsterdam, skip the Van Gogh Museum (or go very early in the day) and visit the charming and informative Rembrandt Huis.

In Rome, forget the Vatican Museum and head instead to the marvelous Etruscan Museum that houses an incredible collection of treasures. Both times I’ve visited, the museum was virtually empty, which is in no way a reflection on the quality of the displays. The museum just happens to be so far off the beaten track of Rome’s iconic sites that few tourists find it.

The Etruscan Museum in Rome is almost never crowded, a great bet for travelers looking to avoid crowds
The Etruscan Museum is one of Rome’s most interesting museums

Lesser-Known Museums to Visit

Here are posts about some of my favorite lesser-known and fabulous museums:

3.    Go to Art Openings

If you’ve checked out other posts on Artsy Traveler, you’ll know that a lot of my European travel centers around my husband’s art exhibitions. Most exhibitions include an opening (a vernissage in France; an inaugurazione in Italy). These events often include food and wine, and a short talk by the artist and the curator. They are also free to anyone who wants to drop in.

We’ve frequently met fellow travelers at Gregg’s openings, in addition to local art lovers, and have attended the openings of exhibitions by other artists—some we knew, some we didn’t. We always have a memorable time!

Art openings in Europe are usually free and open to everyone
Art openings at private galleries in Europe are usually free and open to everyone

Finding Art Openings

To find art openings, check online listings. Also, stroll areas that have a lot of art galleries, such as the Left Bank and Marais districts in Paris. You’ll have the most luck finding an opening in the early evening on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

If you pass an art gallery hosting an opening, don’t be shy! Walk in and say hello, check out some artwork, and maybe even have a glass of wine and an appetizer. You’re bound to meet a few locals who speak English, or you can practice your language skills.

4.    Attend Local Concerts and Events

One of my favorite things to do when traveling in Europe is going to classical music concerts. Sometimes, I book tickets ahead of time to see a particular concert, but at other times, I look for posters and flyers.

On a recent trip to Siena, I picked up a flyer in our hotel advertising an intimate concert with a singer and pianist held in a local church. It was magical!

While in Rome, we saw a poster advertising concerts at the stylish Auditorium Parco della Musica well off the tourist beat north of the city. We bought tickets, and enjoyed two fantastic concerts with other music lovers, the vast majority of whom were locals.

Classical music concert venue in Europe
Classical music concerts are top quality and reasonably priced

Tourist Concerts

I find that attending concerts in Europe really enhances my appreciation of the local culture. Even if the concert is advertised for tourists—such as a flamenco performance in Seville—it’s going to be good.

Trust me on this. We’ve enjoyed fado in Lisbon, flamenco in Spain, medieval music in southern France, opera in Paris, folk music in Bacharach on the Rhine, Vivaldi in Venice, Stravinsky in Berlin, Chopin in Leipzig, Shostakovich in Hamburg…I could go on and on.

And best of all, prices for classical music concerts in some of the world’s best concert venues are shockingly reasonable compared to what we pay to attend a concert in Canada.

Fado performers in Porto, Portugal
Local performances are generally authentic and well worth the price

5.    Ride Public Transit

Few travel experiences bring you closer to locals than riding busses, trains, and metros. These days, you can pay for most transit options with a tap of your credit card. I love hopping on a bus and following my progress on Google Maps, so I know exactly where to get off.

I also enjoy people-watching on public transit. On very crowded busses and metros, just be sure to keep a good grip on your valuables. While violent crime in Europe is rare, pickpockets do flourish in crowded cities.

A bus in Europe, a great way to travel local
Take a city bus in Europe and enjoy great people watching

A Cautionary Tale

A word of caution about bus travel. If you happen to have a paper ticket, ALWAYS remember to validate it when you get on the bus. I learned this lesson the hard way. On a recent stay in Turin, I got on the bus, paper ticket in hand, and noticed that no one else was validating their tickets at the machine. I wrongly presumed that validation wasn’t required. Maybe it was a special holiday?

Ten minutes later, an inspector got on the bus and started checking tickets. Everyone on the bus held up their smartphones. As tourists, we had only the paper tickets we’d purchased from the local tobacconist. When the inspector came to Gregg and me and tried to scan our tickets—nada. My protestations of being a dumb tourist fell on deaf ears. That mistake cost us 40 euros—each.

So, just because no one else is validating their ticket doesn’t mean you shouldn’t validate your ticket!

6.    Shop for Food in Local Markets

Shopping for snacks, lunches and the occasional dinner in your hotel room or apartment not only lets you experience life as a temporary local, but it also saves you money. In general, food prices are lower in Europe (although starting to rise). The quality of the fresh produce is also far superior to what is found in the average North American grocery store.

I love prowling the aisles of a European supermarket and ordering pre-made food at the in-store delis. I’ve typically found the staff to be friendly and tolerant of my attempts to at least say hello, good-bye and thank you in their language.

Outdoor Markets

Be on the lookout for open-air markets where you’ll find a dizzying array of foods along with clothing and knick-knacks. Some cities also have large indoor markets, such as the Mercado de Triana in Seville.

An outdoor market in Europe is a great place to find good, fresh food while avoiding tourist crowds
Interact with locals while browsing outdoor markets in Europe

7.    Take a Cooking Class

When you take a cooking class in Europe, you’ll meet travelers from around the world and learn from a local chef. I’m a firm fan of cooking classes and take one every chance I get.

On a recent trip to Rome, I learned how to make gelato and pizza with lovely Marco: Pizza, Gelato, Suppli–Oh My! A Fantastic Cooking Class in Rome

A cooking class in Europe is a great way to learn new skills and avoid crowds
Take a cooking class and learn new skills

In a tapas class I took in Madrid, I met fellow travelers from Australia, Holland, the UK, France, and Korea.

8.    Go on a Walking Tour

I’ve also become a big fan of walking tours, particularly specialty tours that cater to a specific interest. In Rome, I went on a walking tour of the old Jewish ghetto. In London, I explored the back alleys and colorful history of the Covent Garden theater district. In Stratford-upon-Avon, I joined three other people for a small walking tour with a guide pretending to be William Shakespeare.

Walking tours usually take you behind the scenes and to places where regular bus tours can’t go. The guides are often locals who are very enthusiastic about their subject and love showing off hidden gems.

A great source for walking tours is GuruWalk. All the tours listed are pay-what-you-can and run by locals. Here are some of the free walks available from GuruWalk in Paris.

9.    Skip the Iconic Sites

Yes, this recommendation is blasphemy but heeding it could make the difference between reveling in a relaxing and memorable European vacation and enduring one that leaves you hot, bothered, and blistered. When you’re planning what you want to see, consider not visiting super popular sites such as the Colosseum in Rome, the ruins in Pompeii, and the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Instead, choose smaller, lesser-known museums and sites, and leave more time for wandering.

By all means, stroll past the Colosseum and view the Eiffel Tower from one of the bridges. Snap some photos and drink in the view. Then, veer off into a shady side street and enjoy an hour or tour wandering around a quiet neighborhood, sitting in a park, and enjoying a drink at an outdoor café surrounded by locals.

Carol Cram in front of the Colosseum in Rome
See the Colosseum from the outside only

Travel isn’t all about ticking off the big sites. Instead, think of travel as your opportunity to surround yourself with a kaleidoscope of interesting sights, sounds, and smells.

Slow down and savor the displays in a small museum, make time for a concert or an art opening, be on the lookout for a local festival, and just be.

10. Walk Away from the Crowds

Even in Venice, one of Europe’s busiest tourist cities, you can find solitude. Leave the busy piazzas and thoroughfares and within seconds, you’ll be wandering down narrow alleyways and crossing tiny bridges spanning sleepy canals that look like they haven’t been disturbed for centuries.

Even in crowded Venice, you can easily find quiet corners

A peaceful canal in Venice (both)
A peaceful canal in Venice (both)

I skirt the main tourist drags in busy towns by going left or right down the first narrow street I see. I may get a bit lost, but I’ll also find glorious solitude and the chance to commune with the past.

Siena’s Campo bustles with tourists but walk a few meters down a side street and you’re alone and surrounded by buildings that haven’t changed much in 700 years. And at night, you’ll even have the Campo all to yourself.

Carol Cram in the Campo in Siena at night
Have the Campo in Siena to yourself at night

Such opportunities for quiet encounters with history make European travel endlessly appealing.

Some of My Favorite Uncrowded European Sites

Conclusion

What are your tips for avoiding crowds in Europe? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below.

Visit Rome’s Best Kept Literary Oasis: The Keats-Shelley House

Arts & Culture, Destinations, Italy, Museums Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Visit Rome’s Best Kept Literary Oasis: The Keats-Shelley House

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:33 pm

If you’re a fan of English Romantic poets, then you must make a pilgrimage to the Keats-Shelley House in Rome.

This lovely little literary museum is nestled right next to the world famous Spanish Steps in Rome. Thousands of visitors mill around the piazza in front of the steps, climb the steps, and take pictures of the steps.

Yes, the steps really are very attractive–lots of flowers and a striking two-tower church at the top.

Pinterest graphic with the text The Keats-Shelley House. Above the text is a picture of the interior of the museum with old style bookcases. The picture below the text shows busts of the poets Keats and Shelley.

But in the end, the steps are, well, steps. If you go to the Spanish Steps, take a quick pic and then veer right to visit the Keats-Shelley House. You’re in for a first-rate Artsy Traveler experience.

Literary Leanings

If you’ve been reading the Artsy Traveler blog for awhile, you probably know that I write mostly arts-inspired historical novels. My first three novels feature a painter (The Towers of Tuscany), a composer (A Woman of Note), and an actress (The Muse of Fire).

So, as a novelist, I’m a lover of literature, and what could be more literary than two of the greatest Romantic poets?

Also, back in the day when I went to university in England, I took my degree in English Literature. As a result, I studied a lot of poetry, particularly by Shelley.

So to enter rooms where Keats and Shelley hung out, really is a pilgrimage.

A richly stocked library with bookshelves filled with over 8,000 volumes, considered one of the finest Romantic literature collections in the world.

Touring the Keats-Shelley House

The Keats-Shelley House is extremely easy to find thanks to its location next to the Spanish Steps. You’ll also see the banner hanging outside.

The Keats-Shelley House is open from 10 to 1 and 2 to 6, and includes a special rate for seniors.

The ticket person got on my good side by telling us we didn’t qualify for the senior’s rate because it’s only for people over 65. Awww. That was kind of her.

But needless to say, I corrected her and got the reduced rate.

You enter the museum and climb to the first floor where you’ll find the tiny gift shop (more on that later) and the ticket taker.

After paying the entrance fee, turn right to tour a series of beautiful rooms containing a great many treasures and curiosities associated with the lives and works of several of the Romantic poets and their associates.

You’ll see letters written by Keats, Shelley, Bryon, Mary Shelley, Wordsworth, and other luminaries from the time. The evenness of their penmanship puts most modern folks to shame!

Also on display are drawings, snippets of poetry, paintings, and other memorabilia. The explanations are clear and informative.

Why The Poets Loved Italy

Back in the 18th and 19th centuries, with a decade or two off during the beginning of the 19th century for the Napoleonic Wars, Italy was a mecca for poets and writers from northern climes, including the Romantic poets from England, and Goethe from Germany.

These writers loved Italy’s warm weather, easy-going life, and the inspiration to be found in so many centuries of history. What attracted them to Italy back then isn’t so very different from what attracts me to Italy today.

It’s a very special country with so much to offer. No wonder I keep coming back year after year!

Rooms in the Keats-Shelley House

The rooms in the Keats-Shelley House include a library of more than 8,000 volumes. It’s considered one of the finest libraries of Romantic literature in the world.

Thoughtfully presented displays provide you with a lot to read as you prowl around the rooms. You could spend a great deal of time here!

library in Keats shelley house in Rome

The tour through the rooms ends at the tiny bedroom where John Keats died on February 23, 1821 at the age of just 25. It’s astonishing how he was able to compose so much sublime poetry in so few years. The museum includes plenty of information in English and Italian about Keats, his life, his tragic death, and of course his poetry.

Was it a vision, or a waking dream?
Fled is that music:—Do I wake or sleep?

From Ode to a Nightingale

Here is the bed on which Keats died.

A simple bedroom where poet John Keats passed away, showcasing a modest bed and period furnishings.

Byron’s Bicentenary

At first, I was mystified by the several banners related to Byron on display in the main library. After all, it’s the Keats-Shelley House. The very friendly and knowledgeable attendant told us that the House is celebrating the Bicentenary of Byron’s death in 1824.

His poetry is figured prominently on red banners. I haven’t read Byron for many years, so it was a real treat to reacquaint myself with some of his poetry.

banner containing poetry by Byron at the Keats-Shelley House in Rome

We had a great chat with the attendant about the poets, Mary Shelley and her mum Mary Wollstonecraft, and the arts in general.

I mentioned that I’d interviewed Samantha Silva, author of Love and Fury about Mary Wollstonecraft on The Art In Fiction Podcast. Since the attendant was obviously interested in the era, I figured she may want to read the novel (highly recommended, by the way). She was delighted to learn about it and promised to look up the podcast.

I also told her about my novels and gave her one of my bookmarks because, well, marketing.

The Terrace

A highlight of a visit to the Keats-Shelley House is walking out on to the sweet little terrace overlooking the Spanish Steps. Imagine Keats and the gang sitting out there on a warm May afternoon sipping tea and talking poetry!

It’s pretty cool to think that the view Keats saw wasn’t all that dissimilar to the view we see today.

A vibrant view of the Spanish Steps in Rome, adorned with colorful flowers, leading up to the twin towers of Trinità dei Monti Church. Visitors gather around the piazza in front of the steps.

The house included drawings of the Piazza Spagna and the steps in the early 19th century, and indeed, not much has changed if you look above the ground floor shops.

The Gift Shop

After thoroughly enjoying touring the rooms, we exited via the gift shop. I couldn’t resist buying myself a cloth bag with a Grecian Urn on it, homage to Keats’s Ode to a Grecian Urn.

I also studied the collection of fridge magnets. We’ve taken to buying them most places we visit. Back home, our fridge door is getting pretty full up, but there’s always room for one more, or in this case, three.

I couldn’t decide which magnet to buy–Keats, Shelley, or Bryon–and so I bought all three.

Here they are–Keats on the left, Shelley in the middle, and Byron on the right. These guys were all in the twenties and early thirties when they were hanging out together, and all three died young.

They’re a bit like the rock stars of their time–living with unbridled passion and energy that burned out quickly, but wow, what a legacy they each left in their wake!

Keats, Shelley, Byron fridge magnets

Conclusion

Have you visited the Keats-Shelley House in Rome? What did you think Share your impressions in the comments below for other Artsy Travelers.

Artsy Tours in Rome

I couldn’t find any literary-themed tours in Rome on GetYourGuide, so here’s a selection of tours related to music and also a tour of locations mentioned in Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code series.

Note that I include tours listed on the GetYourGuide website because I’ve taken and enjoyed many of their tours.

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interior of colosseum in Rome

How Not to Tour the Colosseum in Rome

Activities, Arts & Culture, Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on How Not to Tour the Colosseum in Rome

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:28 pm

You’ve arrived in Rome! Maybe, you’ve been lucky enough to have your taxi whisk you past the Colosseum on your way to your accommodations.

There it is! It’s huge! OMG!

We’re in the Eternal City!

This is SO cool!

The upper facade of the Colosseum with arches and weathered stone against a bright blue sky. Overlaid text reads, “How Not to Tour the Colosseum in Rome,” with the website "artsytraveler.com" at the bottom.

Yes, the Colosseum in Rome is impressive and iconic. It’s the symbol of Rome and one of the seven wonders of the world. Millions of visitors come from all over the globe to see it. They snap selfies in front of it, gaze out over its ruined amphitheater, and stand in line-ups for hours.

My question is–should you bother? My answer? It depends!

Tours & Accommodations at a Glance

My Rome Colosseum History

Since my first visit to Rome in 1974, I’ve popped into the Colosseum four times. Three of those visits were great.

The most recent one was a nightmare.

The Colosseum itself hasn’t changed much apart from some restoration work over the decades. It’s still a massive ruin that, while impressive, bears little similarity to the magnificent original built over two thousand years ago.

Earthquakes, looting, and the general wear and tear of two millennia, not to mention the shuffling feet of millions and millions of visitors have taken their toll.

What has changed for visitors in recent years is just how incredibly crowded the Colosseum has become. The Colosseum ranks as the number one tourist attraction in Rome. Even St. Peter’s and the Vatican aren’t that crowded (although they are pretty much overrun).

Although I have no way of knowing for sure, I get the feeling during my most recent visit to the Colosseum that many people are ticking it off their must-see list, whether they are enjoying it or not. What a shame! Rome is so much more fabulous than the Colosseum.

The Colosseum is amazing, for sure. But is it worth your time to go inside when you can snap a photo like the one below with zero effort?

Exterior of the Colosseum in Rome showing columns and blue sky.

Should You Visit Rome and Not Go to the Colosseum?

Gasp! Should you do it? If you want to enjoy this marvelous city and you’re visiting between April to October, then I say yes, give the Colosseum a miss. Also forget the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel. You might consider visiting St. Peter’s since in my experience, the line moves fairly briskly and at least you’re outdoors for most of the wait.

But back to the Colosseum. In this post, I’ll describe my latest visit. You can then decide for yourself if it’s worth several hours of your precious sightseeing time. Or, would you be better off skipping the crowds and heading for some of the city’s quieter and infinitely more lovely sights such as the cosy Keats-Shelley House near the Spanish Steps?

Signing Up for a Colosseum Tour: Smart Idea or ?

As a savvy traveler (or at least so I like to think!), I know that the early visitor beats the crowds. The two-hour guided tour of the Colosseum I sign up for starts at 8 am and guarantees first entry into the site.

I imagine wandering through deserted passageways, the morning sun slanting pleasingly across the ancient ruins. The only sounds are the murmurs of the guide, a few tweeting birds, and perhaps the whispers of long-gone gladiators wafting up from the cells beneath the arena.

I mean, who starts sightseeing so early in the morning? For sure, I’ll have the place to myself along with a handful of other intrepid travelers willing to sign up for an early morning tour.

Finding the Tour

Promptly at 7:50 am, I arrive at the meeting point across the street from one of the entrances to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. A small crowd of at least fifty people all proffering cell phones is my clue that I’m in the right place. I wait patiently for the beleaguered guide to check my phone, declare me valid, and press a small white sticker onto my chest. It’s now about 8:10 am, so obviously the tour doesn’t actually start at 8 am.

While waiting, I snap a photo of the Roman Forum across the street. It looks splendid in the early morning sun of one of the first really warm days I’ve experienced in Rome on my current trip in early May.

A daytime view of the Roman Forum, showing historic stone buildings, a bell tower, and a dome against a blue sky. Greenery and trees surround the ancient structures, with traffic lights in the foreground.

Waiting to Enter the Colosseum

Several minutes later, we are ushered across the road to the entrance gate and told that the ticket takers open at 8:30 and that we will be first! (said with enthusiasm, like it is a rare treat and not what we’ve signed up for).

Ticket takers? I’d neglected to read the fine print of the tour. The cost does not include the cost of entry into the archaeological site which includes the Forum and Palatine Hill in addition to the Colosseum.

A word of warning: Check what’s included in your tour and opt for a tour that includes the entry cost so the guide already has your tickets.

Lesson learned, I prepare to wait in line (at least I am close to the front) until the ticket booths open at 8:30–another fifteen minutes. After all, the guide has assured us that we’ll be first into the Colosseum. Isn’t that worth waiting a few extra minutes for?

Remember the tweeting birds, the silence of the ancient stones, the gladiator ghosts reminiscing about gladiator fights, the glorious isolation!

Buying a Ticket to the Colosseum

At precisely 8:40 am, the ticket takers open the two wickets and the first people in line eagerly step forward to buy their tickets. Yahoo! The line will surely go quickly and I’ll be inside the Colosseum communing with history and getting tons of inspiration for my next novel in no time flat.

8:50 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth.

9:00 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth. Oh wait! One of the groups has left and another couple has stepped forward. But at the other booth, the same four people are still talking with the attendant. What can they be talking about? What’s the holdup? Are they sharing recipes? Have they found a long-lost cousin? What gives?

The guide comes by and tells us to have our passports out and ready to show the ticket takers. What? I don’t have my passport with me although fortunately I do have my driver’s license. I ask the guide if that will do. Yes. Phew.

Another five minutes goes by and the first group of four finally leaves the booth. They are looking weary but relieved. I’d love to ask them what went down, but of course I don’t dare risk losing my place in line.

The next group steps forward. I take to counting to gauge how long they stay at the booth. Sixty seconds, another sixty, another sixty…five minutes and they’re done. Another ten minutes goes by during which time a few more groups get to the booth and then several minutes later step away, tickets in hand. Their per wait time is marginally decreasing.

Progress is being made.

My Turn Getting Tickets for the Colosseum

Finally, it’s my turn. I’m about to find out why it takes almost five minutes to process each person in a line that is now stretching back to the road and a considerable way along it. Did all these people book a group tour that required them to buy tickets?

I find out later that yes, they are all group tour people. The “regular” people who just want a ticket to the Colosseum without a tour buy their tickets at another booth. I’ll soon discover that many, many hundreds of them get inside the Colosseum long before we arrive.

So much for us being first!

Anyway, I’m at the booth.

“One for the Colosseum, per favore.”

“One?”

“Si.”

The attendant shakes her head as if to say what kind of a loser visits the Colosseum all by themselves first thing in the morning? I don’t share that my husband has elected to do the smart thing and spend a leisurely morning enjoying cappuccino and a walk about the chic ‘hood we’re staying in up near the Piazza del Popolo.

Instead, I push my driver’s license under the glass barrier and she places it in front of her keyboard. Then, with two stiff fingers, she laboriously starts to type. No wonder this whole process is taking forever! She has to physically enter the ID for every single person in line and she can’t touch type.

Oh dear.

After about two minutes (possibly a record), she hands me back my driver’s license, I pay with my credit card, and then I go stand with my fellow line waiters for the tour to begin.

It’s now 9:30 am.

Starting the Tour of the Colosseum–Almost

Promptly at 9:45 am, only 1 hour and 45 minutes past the tour start time, our guide leads those of us who have Colosseum tickets marked 9:15 am to another loooooong line. This is the line for all the Skip-the-Line group tours. As I said, it’s long.

Security Line at the Colosseum

We wait for another twenty minutes while the guide finally explains why progress that morning has been unusually slow. I’m at least heartened to find out that the current process is not normal. Apparently, there was a security incident (bomb scare?) a few days earlier, and since May 1 (it’s May 3rd), new procedures using a new security firm are being instituted.

Unfortunately, thorough testing is lacking so chaos reigns as the Colosseum ticket takers are obliged to enter everyone’s ID information into the computer and new security personnel are stationed at the entrances to the actual Colosseum to again check IDs and tickets.

Entering the Colosseum

We finally reach the front of the Skip-the-Line group tour line and enter the outer perimeter of the Colosseum.

It’s big. Really big—much bigger than it looks from the road with massive columns that soar way up into the blue Roman sky. Inside, the arches are truly impressive. Roman engineering is a marvel.

A long, dimly lit hallway inside the Colosseum, featuring massive stone columns and arches. Tourists walk through the corridor, which captures the grandeur and history of the ancient structure.

The guide starts her spiel while leading us to yet another line. She tells us that construction of the Colosseum began between 70 and 72 CE during the reign of the Emperor Vespasian. Before then, the area had been a lake on the grounds of Nero’s Domus Aurea (golden house).

Nero was not popular, to say the least, and so the decision to replace his private lake with a public amphitheater hosting thousands of locals was a great way to erase him from recent history.

The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with Euros so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.

Not Everyone Loves Rome

The guide takes a break from her history lesson and cheerfully asks two people in the group where they are from. They reply that they are from Austria and that never again will they come to Rome because it is horrible and dirty. I am offended on behalf of both myself and the guide who smiles gamely but I can see is a trifle nonplussed. I mean, rude much? Apparently, the Austrians booked into a hotel that is less than stellar and that has colored their whole opinion of one of my favorite cities in the world.

I want to tell them that the place we’re staying in is absolutely wonderful—clean, spacious and in an excellent location. Here’s the link to our serviced apartment called Viam 6B. It truly is one of the best places we’ve stayed in Rome, ever.

Perhaps the Austrians decided to cheap out. Rome is a fabulous place to visit, but accommodations are not budget friendly. But then you can say that about just about every destination in Europe in recent years. The days of Europe on $5 a day (or even $100 or $200 a day) belong to the middle of the last century.

The guide decides not to ask the rest of the group about their experience. The mood is already a bit iffy considering we’ve all stood in lines for more than two hours for our first-into-the-Colosseum tour and haven’t actually started touring the Colosseum. We are in it, but only just.

The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with coins so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.

Climbing to the Top of the Colosseum

And then, finally, we’re in and the tour officially begins. The guide talks to us for quite a while about the history of the Colosseum and then invites us to trudge up three flights of very steep steps to look out over the arena.

We emerge into a surging Sargasso Sea of visitors all packed cheek by jowl along the railing much like the spectators must have done during the Colosseum’s heyday. Everyone’s snapping selfies (something that wasn’t done during the days of the Roman empire) and I suppose communing with their inner gladiator. 

We walk and walk and walk some more around the perimeter to a slightly less crowded stretch of railing, and get our one minute of time to snap pics of the ancient amphitheater.

A panoramic view of the Colosseum’s interior, showcasing tiered seating, arches, and the underground chambers. Crowds of tourists walk along designated paths inside the historic amphitheater.

Yes, it’s an impressive place for sure. In its day, up to 70,000 screaming Romans watched gladiatorial combat, executions, triumphal celebrations, and other spectacles. Today, approximately 16,000 people visit the Colosseum every single day. So although the place feels very crowded to me, it is positively empty compared to what it would have been back when the arena floor was covered in sand to better absorb the blood.

The guide talks about how wild beasts were starved for days before being let loose to gnaw on convicts, Christian martyrs, and anyone else the Emperor didn’t like. It’s the odd interesting fact such as this that you get from a guided tour.

Is A Guided Tour of the Rome Colosseum Worth the Wait?

So, should you opt for a guided tour of Rome’s most famous monument, check it out on your own, or forget about it and do something that doesn’t involve rubbing shoulders (literally) with thousands of strangers?

You may have guessed my opinion, which is Door #3. The entire tour/ordeal lasted about three hours, with the smallest number of minutes devoted to the tour and the largest to waiting for the tour.

Now, to be fair, the extra security measures ate up a goodly chunk of that three hours. I don’t know if these measures will become the norm going forward, in which case be prepared for waits, or if it’s temporary. You’ll have to check that out before you book.

I don’t blame the tour guide for all the waiting. She was doing her best in difficult circumstances and to her credit remained cheerful and upbeat throughout. I gave her a 5 Euro tip which appeared to surprise her, but hey, I figure she’d earned it.

Most people either didn’t tip or gave her 5 euros for their entire party which I thought was a bit cheap of them. Tips are not required, but I think it’s a good idea to give the guide a little extra considering they probably don’t get paid all that much, and it’s a challenging job at the best of times.

Touring the Colosseum On Your Own

What about the second option—see the Colosseum on your own? I think it may be marginally the better option because you don’t need to arrive at a location two hours ahead of when you get in. Instead, you can go straight to the ticket line and take your chances. The wait could be 10 minutes or two hours.

You could also buy your ticket online. You’ll still need to stand in line-ups, but not for quite so long. It’s difficult to say. We bought our “skip-the-line” tickets to Pompeii online and still had to wait in line about 20 minutes to exchange the online tickets for real tickets.

When To Visit the Colosseum

I think the moral of the story is that whatever way you slice it, sites like the Colosseum are really, really popular. You can try to beat the crowds, but I don’t think in any universe you’ll get around waiting in long lines.

My advice? Either visit the Colosseum during the off-season (November to March) when crowds are thinner, or forget about it and go see some of the city’s other awesome sites.

Tours of the Colosseum

If you do opt for a tour (and I’m just saying, buyer beware), then GetYourGuide has plenty of tours to choose from. I suggest choosing a tour that includes a ticket to the Colosseum and the Forum so you won’t need to line up to buy your ticket separately.

Also, you may be better off booking a tour in the late afternoon or opt for one of the evening tours instead of the morning. I felt like everyone fueled up on their hotel breakfast as early as possible and made a beeline for the Colosseum as their first stop of the day. Possibly later in the day may be less frantic. 

This evening tour may be a good bet:

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Other Sites in Rome

Rome is chock-a-block full of amazing things to see and do. Here are some of my favorite sites in Rome. You’ll note that I don’t include big ticket items like the Vatican Museum, St. Peter’s, the Pantheon, and the Trevi Fountain, all of which are over-run with visitors.

These are just a sampling. There are also a ton of fabulous churches, some with Roman foundations.

My Favorite Activity in Rome

For me, my favorite Rome activity is walking around the various neighborhoods and avoiding the bottleneck areas around the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, St. Peter’s Square, and especially the Trevi Fountain. If you want to experience any of those places crowd-free, either swing by late at night or go for a very early morning stroll.

Here’s a shot taken on our way home after a scrumptious dinner in a restaurant on an atmospheric side street just steps from where we stayed at Viam 6B, which was not far from the Spanish Steps.

A narrow cobblestone street in Rome at night, lined with potted plants and historic buildings with shutters. A woman in a floral dress stands under streetlights, adding to the serene, atmospheric scene.

Accommodation Options in Rome

On my latest trip to Rome, I stayed in two places in Rome because I broke up the 2-week stay with a 5-day trip south to Naples and Paestum (read about my visit to the incomparable Naples Archaeological Museum).

For the first week, I stayed at Sant’Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome, very close to a lot of Roman ruins in addition to the Capitoline Museum and the Piazza Venezia, site of the Victor Emmanuel monument. The apartment was very atmospheric and in an excellent location for exploring ancient Rome.

After touring the Naples area, I returned to Rome and stayed at Viam 6B, located between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Popolo–a very upscale and chi-chi part of Rome with lots of designer stores. I preferred the location of the first place because the area was much less touristy and very medieval-feeling. However, the apartment at Viam 6B, was very modern and comfortable and included a beautiful outdoor terrace. It was also staffed which is nice for getting directions and ordering taxis.

But both places were great and I’d cheerfully stay in either on my next trip to Rome.

More Tour Options for Rome

Touring major sites such as the Colosseum and Vatican in Rome can get tiring. Why not take a break and opt for a more relaxing experience, such as this food tour of the lively Trastevere District (one of my favorite areas of Rome).

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Walking Tours of Rome

If you enjoy walking tours, I can recommend the tours offered by GuruWalks. Here are a few of the tours available in Rome.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Colosseum in Rome recently and not found it crowded? Do you have any tips for how to have an enjoyable visit? Please share in the comments below.

Posts About Rome

Here are some more posts about Rome, one of my very favorite cities in the world. I’ve visited eight times, and I’m not done yet!

How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

Arts & Culture, Destinations, Europe, Italy, Museums Artsy Traveler 2 Comments on How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:33 pm

Naples-bound? Then put the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli aka the National Archaeological Museum of Naples high on your list of must-sees.

I’ve visited Pompeii twice before my most recent trip in 2024 and both times, I never managed to visit the Naples National Archaeological Museum. I came close when visiting with my family in 1994. We took a taxi from our hotel to the museum on our way to Pompeii only to find it closed.

In those pre-Google days, I’d neglected to read the guide book.

A detailed mosaic depicting various birds, plants, and animals, overlaid with the text, “Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.” The bottom section features the website "artsytraveler.com."

So on my latest trip I was determined to finally see the museum because it houses the vast majority of the art excavated from ancient Pompeii and Herculaneum and is considered one of the best archeological museums in the world.

Museum & Naples at a Glance

  • Take a guided tour of the museum
  • Museum highlights:
    • The sculpture collection, particularly Hercules at Rest
    • Collection of everyday objects is a poignant reminder of the people who lived and died in Pompeii
    • The “Zootopia” mosaic with its bevy of wild animals
    • Portrait of the poet Sappho
  • Great apartment to stay in Naples: Palazzorefici
  • Recommended tour of Naples that includes Pompeii. 

See the National Archaeological Museum of Naples First!

Now that I’ve toured the National Archaeological Museum, I can without hesitation recommend that you go there first and then tour the ruins of Pompeii and/or Herculaneum. Both cities were buried in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 CE, with excavations starting at far back as the 16th century.

As you’ll discover, Pompeii and Herculaneum are pretty much all ruins (quel surprise!) with the vast majority of the frescoes, mosaics, and statues long ago removed to the National Archaeological Museum.

Also, to be honest, wandering around Pompeii in the heat (I visited in late April and it was 30 degrees) with thousands of other visitors is not as comfortable an experience as strolling through room after room in the thoughtfully air conditioned National Archaeological Museum of Naples.

Overview of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

In this post, I’ll share some of my favorite parts of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples (MANN) with the proviso that the museum is chock-a-block with amazing objects from antiquity.

I’ve rarely seen such a beautifully appointed museum where just about every item in it is worth a stop and a good long look.

You can easily visit the National Archaeological Museum in about two to three hours, depending on your energy level. You’ll also find a good cafe so you can take a break for refueling after touring a floor or two.

I did, and it made all the difference to my enjoyment of the museum.

The exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, a grand pink building with arched windows, statues, and palm trees lining the street under a clear blue sky.
Exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples

When I toured MANN in late April, the crowds were light (unlike the next day in Pompeii!) and I waited only a few minutes at the entrance to buy tickets.

In busier times of the year, you may want to skip the ticket line by buying your tickets online from the museum’s website or through resellers such as Get Your Guide. Here’s an option that includes a guided tour:

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Plan of Attack

The museum is organized according to type of art, so you’ll find rooms full of artifacts from Pompeii, including sculptures, mosaics, everyday objects, frescoes, and coins.

I saw most of what was on display in the sculpture, mosaic, everyday objects, and fresco areas. The quality of the work is awe-inspiring.

I suggest starting with the sculptures on the ground floor and then going to the top floor and working your way down. Doing so minimizes stair climbs (there’s an elevator to whisk you to the second floor) and conserves energy.

Sculptures

Start with sculptures because they are the first things you see when you enter the museum.

Wowza! They are stunning. I didn’t expect to see so many really large sculptures that looked like they were chiseled yesterday when in fact they are almost 2000 years old.

Here’s a selection of my favorites.

Hercules at Rest

Even big guys like Hercules can use some time off now and again. This massive sculpture of old Herc shows him leaning on his club. The sculpture is a Roman copy from the end of the 2nd/beginning of the 3rd Century CE of a Greek statue from the second half of the 4th century BCE. The subject of Hercules at rest is a very popular one. It shows him exhausted and pensive after having undertaken yet another labor for his cousin Eurytheus.

While the top half of Hercules sags with fatigue, his legs and feet still look dynamic, as if he was ready to spring into action (yet again) at any moment. The sheer size of the statue took my breath away–and it’s just one of many dozens of sculptures in MANN.

A massive marble statue of Hercules standing, leaning on his club draped with a lion’s skin. The muscular figure is displayed in a grand hall with museum visitors in the background.

Hercules is part of the Farnese Collection, which was one of the first collections of artistic items from Greco-Roman antiquity.

It was started by  Cardinal Alessandro Farnese (he later became Pope Paul III) back in the 16th century when collecting antiquities started being all the rage. Many of the works in MANN are from his collection.

Dog Sculptures

Large sculptures dominate the rooms, but they are by no means the only sculptures worth admiring at MANN. Here are three incredibly charming sculptures of Roman pooches. They look like they could come to life at any minute and run toward you, tails wagging.

A marble sculpture of a dog sitting and scratching itself with its hind leg, carved with detailed musculature and a lifelike posture.
Two marble statues of dogs seated on stone bases, both with their heads tilted upwards, possibly barking or howling. The detailed carvings highlight the dogs’ muscular forms and expressive faces.
A marble statue of a dog lying down on a stone base, its body relaxed and head slightly raised. The sculpture captures the animal’s muscular build and detailed features.

Athena

Athena is the Goddess of Wisdom, along with warfare and handicrafts. The next time you pick up a knitting project, call on Athena for some extra guidance!

This sculpture (bigger than can possibly be portrayed in a photo) really shows off Athena’s robes in all their pleated glory.

A marble statue of the goddess Athena in full armor, holding out a shield-like cloth decorated with a gorgon’s face. The statue stands tall in a museum setting with visitors in the background.

Bust of a Woman

I don’t know who this is but I love her hair! At least I think the bust is of a woman’s head.

She looks a bit careworn, perhaps from having to cope with all those corkscrew locks every day. I also loved the black stone–an interesting break from the predominantly cream-colored marble used to create most of the other sculptures in MANN.

It’s hard to believe this sculpture dates back two millennia. Like most of the sculptures in MANN, the bust is in near perfect shape.

A bronze bust of a woman’s head with intricate spiral-patterned hair. The sculpture rests on a pedestal, showing lifelike facial features and detailed craftsmanship.

Petite Figure

This small statuette of a child is one of several equally adorable pieces. You can understand how the artists descended from the ones who sculpted these pieces came up with cupids!

The pieces look incredibly lifelike.

A marble sculpture of a young boy seated, holding a cornucopia filled with fruits. The sculpture captures intricate details of the boy’s curly hair and gentle expression.

Everyday Objects

For me, a highlight of the MANN collection is the vast array of household and everyday objects that were salvaged from Pompeii during excavations that began in the late 18th century. Many of the objects were remarkably preserved–pots, glassware, small statues of household gods, combs, jewelry, cooking utensils–you name it.

The ancient Roman versions of pretty much everything humans need to cook, clean, and live in houses is on display.

It turns out that Romans aren’t all that different from us when it comes to the stuff they had in their houses. Take away our electronics and indoor plumbing, and we’re left with similar objects to those used by the average Pompeii resident: wine bottles, cooking pots, jewelry, cups, combs, chairs, and the like.

Here are some particularly fine examples of the household objects salvaged from the ruins of both Herculaneum and Pompeii.

Glass Cup

Can you believe this cup is 2000 years old? I was astonished to see it in the display, but yup, according to the description. the object is a “so-called millefiori ribbon small cup” from Pompeii in the 1st century CE.

It looks like something I could buy today in Venice.

A colorful ancient glass cup with vibrant blue, green, and white stripes accented by yellow bands, displayed on a reflective surface with a small numbered label "4" in front.

Terracotta Frog

Is this little guy not the sweetest thing? It’s a statuette of a frog made from lead-glazed terracotta. I’m not sure what he was used for, but he sure caught my eye.

And he was just one of many, many such objects artfully displayed in room after well-lit room at MANN.

A terracotta sculpture of a frog with a wide mouth, seated on a base. The texture and details of the frog’s body are finely crafted.

Deep Wine Cup

Look at the handiwork on this lead-glazed terracotta wine cup! It’s decorated with vegetable motifs and doves. Imagine drinking your wine out of that!

A brown ceramic wine cup with two handles shaped like animal heads. The surface is decorated with floral patterns and intricate detailing.

Cosmetic Jar

Ladies in Pompeii wore cosmetics just like women do today. But with plastic rather lacking, they stored their cosmetics in glass containers such as the one shown below.

Again, it looks brand new! The jar is described as free-blown glass from the 1st century CE.

A cylindrical blue glass container with a fitted lid, labeled with the number "3." The container’s surface has minor scratches and signs of age.

Blue Glass Pitcher

And last but not least, I have to include this perfect example of a free-blown glass pitcher. Look at the color! There were also many, many more examples of pitchers blown in darker tones as well as clear glass.

I still can’t get over how they survived the blast, but I guess the ash buried things so thoroughly that they were preserved during the 1800 odd years they lay undisturbed. Remarkable!

A deep blue ancient glass vase with a curved handle and narrow spout, displayed against a white background. The surface shows subtle signs of wear.

Mosaics

The people of Pompeii and Herculaneum sure liked their mosaics. The floors of many houses, particularly those belonging to rich people (of which there were quite a few in Pompeii), were decorated with mosaics.

The mosaics in MANN give just a taste of just how opulent the homes must have been. The intricacy of the mosaics really is breathtaking.

Zootopia Mosaic

Here is a series of three mosaics, displayed in horizontal format, but shown here in three parts to better check out the imagery. Each of these mosaics includes a bevy of wild animals–from hippos to snakes to ducks to crocodiles. What a tour de force!

An elaborate mosaic showing a hippopotamus with an open mouth, ducks, and a crocodile in a marsh setting. The scene is filled with reeds and blooming flowers.
A detailed mosaic featuring ducks, snakes, and a boar set among water plants and flowers. The snakes are shown coiling and slithering in the water.
A vibrant mosaic depicting ducks swimming in water, surrounded by lotus flowers and plants. The ducks are shown in various poses with intricate feather details.

Dog Mosaic

The Romans definitely liked dogs! Here’s another depiction of a dog–this time in mosaic form. This image is very popular; it’s on various products sold in the gift shop, including bags, fridge magnets, and mouse pads.

I did buy a fridge magnet at the MANN gift shop, but of Sappho (see below) not the dog!

A Roman mosaic featuring a black dog on a leash, shown mid-stride with its mouth open, against a background of small white tiles. The leash is highlighted in red.

Sea Creatures

Can you imagine the imagination that concocted this delectable cornucopia of sea creatures? Wow! I particularly like the giant octopus in the middle. The mosaic also reminds me of the kinds of displays you’d see in 19th century natural history museums.

A detailed mosaic depicting various sea creatures, including fish, an octopus, a lobster, and eels, all set against a dark background. The intricate artwork highlights the diversity of marine life.

Frescoes

Paintings galore! You won’t believe how many paintings and frescoes you’ll find at MANN. This is because the Romans lavishly painted the inside walls of their villas and added painted embellishments just about anywhere there was a blank wall.

That so many of these paintings survived the eruption of Vesuvius is truly remarkable.

The Romans were unbelievably good painters. They’d mastered perspective and realism 1500 years before the Renaissance. So many of the paintings in MANN look like they could have been painted in the past few hundred years, particularly the gorgeous still lifes.

Here’s my best picks at MANN.

Isis & Snakes

Snakes are quite a recurring theme in the paintings in MANN. I’m not sure why that is; perhaps sea serpents were bigger and more threatening back in the day.

For whatever reason, you’ll see snakes depicted in mosaics and frescoes, and included as details on pots, urns, and other objects.

This fresco, which had once graced the wall of a villa in Pompeii, shows Isis hauling the boat with the body of Osiris along the Nile accompanied by snakes lurking below the surface. Cheerful.

An ancient fresco showing two busts of figures flanking a scene of a boat on water with a shrine and a bird. Beneath them are two large, coiled snakes and a small temple-like structure.

Still Lifes

I couldn’t believe the quality and quantity of still life paintings at MANN. The realism truly is incredible. I have a soft spot for still lifes (see my post about the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam where some of my fave still lifes are exhibited).

I never knew that the ancient Romans were so adept at creating them.

Here are two still lifes–one of dead birds and mushrooms, and the other of a bunny with onions.

A fresco depicting dead birds hanging on a wooden rod above a collection of mushrooms. The muted colors and detailed rendering capture a sense of realism.
A fresco still life depicting a dead rabbit lying on a wooden surface alongside figs and pomegranates. The painting shows detailed textures of the fur and fruits.

Erotica

Don’t miss the Secret Room if you’re inclined to view the museum’s extensive collection of erotic and sexually-themed objects and paintings salvaged from Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The room was finally re-opened in 2000 with a display that organizes objects according to their, ah, function and material. 

It’s a bit of an eye-opener, but definitely interesting and proving there is nothing new under the sun!

Portraits

MANN includes several portraits of Romans in its collection. One of the most famous is the portrait of the baker Therentius Neo and his wife. Don’t they look contemporary?

Walking along the streets of Naples after visiting MANN brought us face to face with several of their descendants!

A Roman fresco showing a man and a woman, both holding writing instruments and scrolls. The woman wears a red garment and the man a white tunic, symbolizing literacy and social standing.

Here is another very famous portrait, this one of the poet Sappho, or at least that’s how it’s billed. The truth is that we don’t know if the portrait is actually of Sappho. It’s rather a “typological” representation of a young woman holding a stylus and a wax tablet–two things the real poet Sappho would likely have.

Anyway, it’s nice to think the portrait really is of Sappho which is probably why the image is everywhere in the gift shop, including on the fridge magnet I bought.

A fresco depicting a woman, believed to be the poet Sappho, holding a stylus to her lips and a wax tablet in her other hand. She has curly hair and wears gold earrings, set against a cracked circular frame.

Could This be My Next Character?

And finally, I came across this lovely mosaic portrait of a young woman. According to the description, the mosaic dates to the Julian-Claudian era (27 BCE to 68 CE) in Pompeii. She’s likely pretty high born (check out the necklace).

I love how she looks directly out at the viewer. If I do decide to write a novel set in ancient Rome (and I am toying with some ideas), then this mosaic could be the image of my main character!

An ancient mosaic portrait of a young woman with dark hair tied back, wearing pearl earrings and a necklace. Her gaze is serious, and the background is composed of brown mosaic tiles

Tour Options in the Naples Area

Here are some Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com tickets and tours you may wish to consider while in the Naples area. I frequently purchase tours and tickets from Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com and have yet to be disappointed. The tours they include on their website are, in my experience, reasonably priced and interesting.

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Walking Tours of Naples

If you enjoy walking tours, then you can’t go wrong with GuruWalks. Check out their tours in Naples.

Where to Stay in Naples

Here are the two places I’ve stayed in Naples:

The Hotel Paradiso is located on Posillipo Hill and has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.

The Palazzorefici is a stylish apartment deep in the heart of Naples on a tiny side street. It’s close to a main street where you can easily get taxis to where you want to go in Naples.

Conclusion

In this post, I’ve just scratched the surface of the collection at the National Archaeological Museum of Naples. I recommend you make time in your itinerary to visit, preferably as I said earlier, before you visit Pompeii.

In fact, if I had to choose between visiting Pompeii and visiting the museum, I’d choose the museum. Yes, I know that the ruins are way more famous–and they are pretty impressive. However, they truly are mobbed with visitors.

And they are BIG! If you can, visit very early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid the heat. Alternatively, visit at a time of year when temperatures are less ferocious. There is virtually no shade anywhere.

Have you visited the National Archaeological Museum in Naples? What were some of your favorite objects? Share in the comments below.

Here are some most posts about travels in Italy:

Chef Marco stands behind a table filled with fresh ingredients, ready to lead a cooking class in Rome."

Pizza, Gelato, Suppli–Oh My! A Fantastic Cooking Class in Rome

Activities, Arts & Culture, Destinations, Europe, Italy Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Pizza, Gelato, Suppli–Oh My! A Fantastic Cooking Class in Rome

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:37 pm

Fancy taking a cooking class while you’re visiting Rome?

I highly recommend the experience. I’m a huge fan of taking cooking classes when I travel around interesting locales that have unique cuisines.

So far, I’ve taken a market class and a French sauces class (sweet and savory) in Paris, a tapas class in Madrid, and a pasta & tiramasu class in Rome.

Pinterest graphic with the text A Fantastic Cooking Class in Rome. Below is a picture of a pizza.

In this post, I share my experience taking a Pizza, Gelato, and Suppli-Making class in Rome.

Choosing a Class in Rome

Most cooking classes available in Rome are variations on the pasta/tiramasu class I took on an earlier trip to Rome. Fortunately, after a bit of searching on GetYourGuide, I discovered a pizza and gelato-making class.

Perfect! I signed up on Tuesday for the class on Friday.

EnjoyCooking.com with Crown Tours

I’d taken the pasta/tiramisu class with InRome Cooking, which I highly recommend. But this time, I decided to go with EnjoyCooking.com for the sake of variety and having a new company to write about on Artsy Traveler.

EnjoyCooking.com partners with Crown Tours to offer cooking classes in a lovely, brick-arched space next door to their tour office and across the street from the Colosseum.

The day before the class, I got a WhatsApp call from the company. The family that had signed up to take the class at the same time as me had canceled, leaving me on my own.

Did I want to postpone the class to the evening slot? I could not because in the evening, we had the opening of my husband Gregg Simpson’s art exhibition at Il Leone Galleria in Rome. I was assured that they were happy to still offer the class at the 10 am time slot even if I was on my own.

Lucky me!

Arrival at EnjoyCooking.com

I arrived on Friday morning and was ushered into the cooking space. There was room for eight people in a class so it was much more intimate than the class I took at InRome Cooking which hosted twelve people.

To my delight, there was one other woman in the class. Over the course of the next three hours, we bonded and had an awesome time.

Chef Marco!

But the biggest surprise was meeting the chef. In walked Marco–the same chef who had taught the pasta/tiramisu class at InRome Cooking.

I couldn’t believe it! I told him I’d taken his class and showed him the blog post. He was so excited!

Carol cram with Chef Marco at enjoycooking.com cooking class in Rome
Back again with Chef Marco, this time at EnjoyCooking.com

So that was a great way to kick off the morning.

Over the next three hours, Chef Marco led my new friend and me in a lively, hands on and informative class. I’m always amazed at how much I learn about cooking technique in these classes.

Gelato Making

We started with gelato. I discovered to my relief that the ice cream maker I’d purchased several years earlier could be dragged out, dusted off, and used to make gelato. Who knew?

We heated several pints of fresh milk in a pot over an electric hot plate. Marco informed us that the milk should be as fresh as possible–so fresh that it would spoil after three days.

Of course, getting milk that fresh is pretty much impossible in North America unless you live on a farm, which I don’t. But the next best thing is high quality organic milk.

We heated the milk and whisked in sugar followed by ten egg yolks and grated lemon zest to make limone gelato. The lemons had come from the Amalfi coast and smelled divine.

After mixing the gelato, we poured it into the commercial gelato maker that would produce perfect gelato within thirty minutes.

What an impressive looking machine!

A pot of fresh milk being heated on an electric hot plate, the first step in preparing limone gelato during a Roman cooking class

Marco informed us that we would also make raspberry sorbetto to go along with the limone gelato. Sorbetto is even faster and easier to make than gelato.

We mixed water with raspberries and once the gelato was made, we poured it into the gelato-maker (after the limone gelato was done, of course).

Here’s a video of the raspberry gelato being extruded from the gelato maker–an exceedingly beautiful and satisfying sight.

Suppli Making

I had never heard of suppli–a Roman street food that is widely available all over the city.

Marco showed us how to take rice cooked in tomatoes and form it around fresh cubes of mozzarella cheese, then bread and deep fry it. The result was a log-shaped rectangle that when still hot and pulled apart stretched the warm mozzarella cheese.

It was yummy but a bit rich for me at only 11 am!

But when in Rome!

Hands shaping rice mixed with tomatoes around fresh mozzarella cubes, crafting traditional Roman suppli in a cooking class.

Pizza Making

The main event of the cooking class was making pizza the proper way–like they make piazza in Napoli where Marco was from.

I learned that the pizza dough should be rested for two hours after mixing and then rested in the refrigerator for up to three days.

That was something new to me. I’d always let my piazza dough rise for about an hour, if that, and then cooked it. Apparently, doing so results in dough that is still fermenting when it enters your tummy. Not good!

Mixing the Pizza Dough

We mixed the dough and kneaded it for about six minutes–a very satisfying process. The dough was light and very elastic.

It was then put away to rest and presumably used for a class the next day. Marco then produced dough that had already been rested and risen for a day, and we proceeded to learn how to shape the dough into a pizza.

Handling the soft, pliant dough was such a pleasure. We didn’t learn how to throw it in the air, but we did learn a few tricks I can apply back home.

Baking the Pizza

Another tip I learned was to slather on the tomato sauce first, bake the pizza for about six minutes in a home oven (much less in a high temperature commercial oven) and then add the toppings and cook for another three to four minutes.

Who knew? I also learned that certain toppings such as prosciutto should not be cooked, but added after the pizza came out of the oven.

For best results, I was told that I should get myself a pizza stone so that’s going on my Christmas list for next year!

Topping the Pizza

After baking the pizza with the sauce, we were offered a wide array of toppings to dress our pizza. My companion chose mozzarella cheese and fresh sausage.

I chose anchovies, mushrooms, olives, and of course mozzarella cheese. Here we are making our pizzas in front of the scrumptious assortment of toppings.

Carol and her new friend stretch pizza dough, preparing to create a Neapolitan-style pizza under Chef Marco's guidance.

Finishing the Pizzas

The pizzas went back in the oven and voila! Within minutes they were being served to us.

The first bites were wonderful–the crust slightly charred and very puffed up (the sign of a good pizza) and the toppings fresh. I managed to get through three pieces before having to give up.

Marco thoughtfully put the remainder in a pizza box for me to carry home to Gregg.

Finished pizza with anchovies and olives at cooking class in rome

After pizza, we were served the gelato we’d made earlier. OMG!

The limone gelato, in particular, was truly to die for. I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a fresher and more delightful-tasking gelato. It puts the run-of-the-mill gelatos found in gelato stores to shame. As Marco said, it’s all about using the freshest ingredients.

scoops of limone and raspberry gelatos

The class ended with me receiving my certificate and posing for a picture with Marco. I was thoroughly satisfied with my second Rome cooking experience in EnjoyCooking.com and Crown Tours.

A smile was on my face as I threaded my way through the crowds of tourists streaming past the Colosseum and Forum on my way back to our comfy little apartment in the Jewish Ghetto.

Thank you, EnjoyCooking.com and Marco for an excellent experience.

EnjoyCooking.com Class

Here’s a link to the cooking class I took through Crown Tours. As I’ve mentioned often on Artsy Traveler, I’m a very big fan of GetYourGuide.

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More Cooking Classes in Rome with GetYourGuide

Here is a selection of additional cooking classes in Rome run by both Crown Tours and other companies.

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Conclusion

Have you taken a cooking class while traveling? Share your experience in the comments below!

Here are some more posts about cooking classes:

Why Sensational Siena Belongs on Your List of Top Medieval Cities

Destinations, Europe, Italy Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Why Sensational Siena Belongs on Your List of Top Medieval Cities

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:28 pm

What is it about Siena that makes an artsy traveler swoon? Mention Siena to anyone who has traveled there and immediately they’ll clasp their hands to their hearts and look heavenward while intoning their undying love for this gem of a medieval city.

Every time I visit Siena (and I’ve been five times), I am inundated with a profound sense of living history. Of course, I could say that about many other places in Europe, but there’s something about Siena that makes it extra special.

Why is Siena so Special?

One reason why Siena is so special is that the modern world intrudes so discreetly that it’s easy to believe, especially at night, that you’ve been transported seven hundred years into the past. The stone and brick walls of ancient buildings soar into the deep blue sky either side of stone-paved streets. Everywhere you look are bricked archways, scarred and ancient wooden doors, iron rings for tethering horses, and shadowed alleyways. Everywhere the ancient past lives and breathes.

Walking Into the Campo

When I walk into the Campo—surely, the most beautiful public space in the world—I feel my throat constrict with emotion. I am in Siena! I am walking where my Sofia (from The Towers of Tuscany) walked, where my Lena grew rich and regretful (The Merchant of Siena – to be published) and where hundreds of years of Sienese people have lived and died, fought, prayed, loved, and hated.

On these bricks in the Campo, laid down even before the Black Death, people in heavy gowns walked and talked. They argued and haggled in business, they gazed at each other with love, they snubbed an enemy and clasped hands with a friend. This space—this Campo—has teemed with life for centuries, its shape and beauty unchanged through wars and famines and plagues and the chain stores of the 21st century.

Views Over the Campo

The view across the Campo to the Torre Mangia and Palazzo Pubblico from the cafés lining the high side of the Campo has not changed appreciably since the buildings were new.

Palazzos and cafes lining the upper end of the campo in Siena

Lorenzetti strode across these bricks on his way to paint the Allegory of Good and Bad Government in the Palazzo Pubblico. From one of the windows in a palazzo above where I sit sipping my Aperol Spritz, my Lena watched her lover Paolo enter the Campo with an army of mercenaries. My Sofia first entered the Campo with Francesco from the street to the left of the Torre Mangia and was instantly captivated.

Campo of Siena View

Siena & Visitors

Siena is still a pulsing living city with more locals than tourists, although there are certainly plenty of tourists. But the crowds are manageable and easy to sidestep. One minute, I’m on a street streaming with people, occasionally standing aside to let a car go past. The next minute, I turn into a small side street and am alone with the ghosts and my imagination.

Quiet side street in Siena

At night, Siena belongs to the locals, particularly young people. The Campo is filled with groups of teens–boys in one tight knot, girls in another. In the side streets, students spill out from the bars, glasses of wine in hand and voices at full volume. In the wee hours, a cadre of loud young men pass under our window, singing with drunken abandon. It’s more endearing than annoying.

Reliving my Novels in Siena

Everywhere I walk in Siena, I think about scenes in the two novels I’ve set there. Is this the street Lena ran down before being captured by mercenaries in The Merchant of Siena? In this piazza, did Sofia in The Towers of Tuscany watch a girl be whipped for dressing like a boy? I’ve spent so many months, years even, seeing these streets in my mind as I write that to walk in them now feels like I’m coming home.

Siena Campo by Moonlight

Arriving in Siena

I booked a room at the I Merli di Ada which is inside the walls of Siena. Usually, we avoid places inside medieval towns because we know from experience that driving through narrow medieval streets mobbed with people is a recipe for disaster. But we wanted to be close to the action in Siena and so decided to take the risk.

The hotel sent instructions about parking. We were to enter Siena from the Porta Romana, drive to a little piazza near the hotel, drop off our luggage, then hand our keys to a valet parking attendant. The cost of valet parking is an exorbitant 30 euros per day, but I don’t care. The benefits of staying within Siena’s walls and having someone else park the car far outweigh the cost.

Driving Into Siena

With trepidation, we follow the GPS directions to drive through the Porta Romana past a phalanx of official-looking people in uniform who don’t stop us. I know we’re being electronically monitored. If we stay too long in Siena, we’ll be subject to a hefty fine. Tourists are allowed a small amount of time to drive to their accommodation and drop off their bags. They then must skedaddle, fast (or in our case, give the keys to a valet who does the skedaddling for us).

The GPS directs us along a street with pedestrians who stand aside to let us pass. Gregg drives very, very slowly. We turn left as directed up a side street and then sharp left again. The hotel’s directions tell us there will be a little piazza to our right where we can stop to unload our luggage. Lo and behold, there it is! We pull in and breathe a sigh of relief. I hop out and walk a few paces down the street to find our hotel.

Entrance to I Merli de Ada Hotel in Siena
Entrance to I Merli de Ada on a side street in Siena

Phew! That was one of the easier entries into a medieval town we’ve experienced. With great gratitude, Gregg hands the keys to the valet who appears moments later to smilingly move our car to God knows where and I don’t care! We’re informed that we’ll see the car again on Sunday. Spoiler alert – we do.

I Merli di Ada

The I Merli di Ada hotel is lovely. The entrance way is brick-arched and reeking with history. The tiny elevator that climbs very slowly from the lobby to the third floor is the only modern intrusion. We put our luggage into the elevator and climb the winding marble staircase. How many feet have climbed here? I don’t know how old the current building is, but I can say with certainty that its foundations are probably medieval, if not older.

Entrance lobby in the I Merli di Ada in Siena
Lobby of the I Merli di Ada in Siena

Our room on the third floor is high-ceilinged, the white-painted beams reminding us of former times. I can’t help wondering how many people have lived and breathed in this space over the centuries. The window looks out over the street and the building opposite—the same red brick as our building with arched windows, most shuttered.

First Walks into Siena

We walk out into Siena with an agenda—find a laundromat, eat a late lunch, buy Gregg some art materials, and, most importantly, drink in our first encounter in six years with my favorite city in Europe.

Thanks to Google, I find a laundromat just down the street, so we head there first. The directions are thoughtfully posted in both Italian and English. Within minutes, we’ve loaded our laundry into one of the machines, inserted eight euros, and pressed the start button. We leave to find lunch.

Lunch in the Campo

Minutes later, we are entering the Campo and my knees go weak. I want to run right out into the middle and twirl. I resist (although later I do a spot of twirling under the cover of darkness–see later in this post). We choose one of the ubertouristy cafés on the edge of the Campo and settle in.

Carol Cram in the Campo in Siena, Italy

Even Rick Steves, who usually eschews places in ‘high rent’ areas like the Campo, has written in his Siena guidebook that camping at one of the cafés on the Campo is a must-do. Hang the cost.

As it is, the cost is perfectly reasonable, the service efficient and good-humored, and the food really delicious. We split an order of bruschetta along with a large salad replete with anchovies, hard-boiled eggs, very fresh greens, and tomatoes.

Lunch of green salad with achnovies and bruschetta in Siena

The sun beats down pleasantly warm as we gaze out at the Palazzo Pubblico and the Campo. I am truly in heaven.

Errands in Siena

After our late lunch, we hightail it back to the laundromat, put the clothes in the dryer (another five euros), then go in search of art materials. We find them at a little shop on the other side of the Campo. Gregg buys a pad of paper and some paints and looks forward to many happy hours of art creating to come.

We pick up a few groceries so we don’t have to buy the hotel breakfast in the morning, then huff up the three flights of stairs to our room for a bit of quiet time before dinner.

Dinner in Siena

In the evening, we venture out to enjoy an excellent dinner at a well-reviewed osteria not far from the hotel. The service is excellent and the ambiance cozy and warm in a brick-vaulted room that’s probably been in use for centuries.

So far as I can hear, we’re the only English speakers. Most of the other diners are Europeans. We start with fried cheese accompanied by fresh pear sauce recommended by the server and then Gregg has a tasty pasta with bacon and I have thinly sliced Florentine steak. We share a green salad. The food is fresh, simply prepared, and absolutely delicious. With wine, the bill is about 60 euros—perhaps not a bargain, but certainly not over-priced considering the quality of the food, the service, and the ambiance.

Evening Stroll in Siena

After dinner, we stroll to the Campo where I do indeed twirl across the 14th-century pavement and snap endless shots of the floodlit Palazzo Pubblico in front of a deep azure sky. We end the evening with a walk along narrow medieval streets and a final stop at a gelateria for a small cup with two flavors—very dark chocolate with amaretto for me; stracciatella and fragola (strawberry) for Gregg.

Twirling in the Campo of Siena

A Perfect Full Day in Siena

The next day, I’m up early, excited to begin my only full day in Siena. I start with a caffè Americano at a lovely little café just down the street from our hotel. The place is deserted and I spend a productive hour working on The Merchant of Siena. Set in the second half of the 14th century—a time of great strife and hardship for Siena—the novel tells the story of a woman who is determined to control her own destiny in a world where all the odds are stacked against her.

April Weather

The weather has turned cloudy and chilly. By the time I emerge from the café, the rain has started in earnest, and I wish I’d brought some warmer clothes. I mistakenly thought that Italy in April would be warm. It can be, for sure, but it also can be chilly and wet. There’s a reason why the Tuscan countryside is so green.

I return to the hotel and together, Gregg and I set out to tour the Palazzo Pubblico. I’m anxious to see an exhibition of costumes from the Palio, and of course to revisit my favorite Lorenzetti frescoes.

Palazzo Pubblico

The Palazzo Pubblico is most certainly the most photographed building in all of Siena. I’ve taken dozens of photos myself in as many lights as possible—from brilliant sunshine to moonlit evening. The Palazzo Pubblico with its accompanying tower (the Torre Mangia) was built between 1297 and 1310 and is considered the world’s most perfect example of civic Gothic architecture. The Signoria and the Podestà resided in the Palazzo Publicco and still today, the building is a symbol of political power.

Alas, I discover while buying our tickets that the Lorenzetti frescoes are being renovated. Oh well. I’ve seen them a few times already, and there is still plenty to see between the public rooms and the current exhibition of Palio costumes.

Exhibition of Palio Costumes

We first head downstairs for the costume exhibition that features examples of the medieval-inspired costumes worn by participants in the Palio. I’m a sucker for a good costume exhibit and this one certainly doesn’t disappoint. The only thing lacking are women’s costumes since the focus is on how the riders in the Palio dressed and all of them are for men (or at least I presume so).

Black and white palio costume in Siena
Siena palio costume in red
Siena palio custome in the palazzo pubblico in siena

Public Rooms in the Palazzo Pubblico

Upstairs in the main part of the Palazzo Pubblico are the stunning reception rooms. With the room containing the Lorenzetti frescoes of Good and Bad Government off limits, the main highlight is the Sala del Mappamondo (the World Map Room), which was once the headquarters of the Council of the Republic.

Martini Fresco

I stand in the middle of the large room and stare at the Maesta by Simone Martini. In The Towers of Tuscany, Sofia stands exactly where I stand to look at the Maesta. Although obviously restored, the 2024 version probably doesn’t hold a candle to the brilliantly colored original that Sofia would have seen.

Fresco of the Maesta by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena
Fresco of the Maesta by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena

I spin around to see Martini’s other famous masterwork–the fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano. Mounted on his charger, the captain of the Sienese army rides across the territory he has just conquered (Montemassi, in 1328). Recently, art historians have disputed the attribution of this work to Martini, claiming that it was either a slightly later work or even a 16th-century fake. Part of what sparked the debate was the 1980 discovery of a slightly older scarred fresco lower on the wall. This earlier painting depicts two figures standing in front of a wooden-fenced castle. Some claim this is the fresco Martini painted, while those who support the authenticity of the Guidoriccio attribute this older fresco to Duccio, Pietro Lorenzetti, or Memmo di Filippuccio.

Fresco in palazzo pubblico
Fresco attributed to Lorenzetti in Siena’s Palazzo Pubblico

Who knows! It’s awesome whoever painted it.

Siena Cathedral

The sun bursts forth after our visit to the Palazzo Pubblico. Gregg heads back to the hotel and I set off to tour Siena Cathedral and the adjoining museums. Here’s where you’ll find the crowds in Siena! The cathedral is mobbed with tour groups, but it’s definitely worth a look-see.

Siena Cathedral

Don’t miss the very cool 15th century paintings in the Piccolomini library. You have to line up to get in, but entrance is included in your ticket to the cathedral.

Piccolomini library in Siena cathedral - paintings
Interior of the Piccolomini Library in Siena Cathedral

If you visit Siena Cathedral, buy a ticket that includes all of the various components, even if you don’t visit them all. I made the mistake of only buying a ticket for Siena Cathedral and then discovering later that I couldn’t access the Museo Opera where the fabulous Maesta by Duccio is housed (it has a cameo appearance in The Towers of Tuscany). By the time I figured out that I didn’t have the right ticket, I couldn’t summon the energy to trudge all the way back to the side of the cathedral to line up to buy the correct ticket. Fortunately, I’ve seen the Duccio twice before!

I return “home” for an hour’s rest before setting off for the other side of Siena where we find a great place for dinner prior to attending a concert.

Italian Opera in Siena

When we’d arrived at I Merli di Ada, I’d picked up a brochure about opera concerts held three times a week in Siena. The price is reasonable and tickets are available. We decide to check it out. The Italian Opera in Siena concert turns out to be very entertaining. A soprano accompanied by a pianist sings many opera favorites by Puccini, Verdi, and Bizet.

Afterwards, we float out on an operatic high and stroll the thirty minutes back to our hotel through the moonlit streets. Siena at night goes beyond magical to mesmerizing. Most of the time, we are alone, the only sounds our footsteps on the cobblestones and the muted clanking of iron rings in the wind.

Out in the Campo for the last time, I shoot a 360-degree video of one of my favorite places in the world!

Siena will forever hold a special place in my artsy traveler heart!

Where to Stay in Siena

Here are more options in addition to the highly recommended I Merli di Ada:

 

Tour Options In and Around Siena

On one trip to Siena several years ago, I joined a small group tour of wineries in Montalcino and Montepulciano that also included an amazing lunch. If you’re in Siena for a few days and want to spend one of them touring the wine regions, then check out some of the many tours available. You could also choose a cooking class (I always enjoy a good cooking class!), or guided tours of some of Siena’s sites. As I’ve mentioned many times on Artsy Traveler, I’m a huge fan of Get Your Guide tours. Without exception, every tour I’ve taken has been excellent value. Full disclosure – if you click on any of the tours below and purchase a tour (any tour) from Get Your Guide, I receive a small commission. Thank you.

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Conclusion

Have you visited Siena? Share your tips for an awesome experience with other artsy travelers in the comments below. And here are more posts about Italy:

Carol Cram in Amsterdam

Two Terrific Small Museums In Amsterdam You Should Visit

Arts & Culture, Destinations, Europe, Museums, Netherlands Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Two Terrific Small Museums In Amsterdam You Should Visit

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:42 pm

I love Amsterdam, which is why on almost every trip to Europe I make it my first stop. Since 1970 on my epic first trip to Europe with my mom, I’ve visited Amsterdam fifteen times. You’d think I’d have run out of places to see by now, but I haven’t. On my most recent visit to AmsterdamX, I discovered two new-to-me museums that I highly recommend.

First is the National Maritime Museum (#1 on the map below) and second is the Rembrandt House Museum (Rembrandt Huis – #2). Both deliver an excellent bang for your euro. The map below also shows the location of my recommended hotel (#3) and for context, Amsterdam’s two heavyweight museums: the Rijksmuseum (#4) and the Van Gogh Museum (#5).

Pinterest graphic with th text two terrific small museums in amsterdam. Above the text is a picture of the Maritime museum and below the picture is a picture of Rembrandt's studio in the Rembrandt House museum.

This map was created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

National Maritime Museum

Despite all my visits to the city, I’d never heard about Amsterdam’s excellent Maritime Museum. On my latest trip, the taxi drove us right past the massive replica of an 18th century Dutch three-master sailing ship (the Amsterdam) moored in the harbor. I asked him what it was and he told us it was part of the National Maritime Museum. Intrigued, I looked it up when we got to the hotel, which turned out to be only a six-minute walk away.

Arriving at the National Maritime Museum

The National Maritime Museum is housed in a stately three-storey building on the edge of Amsterdam’s massive harbor and adjacent to the Amsterdam ship moored in the harbor. After entering at the south side of the building, we walked into a spacious covered atrium with entrances leading to the north, west and east.

Outside the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam
Outside the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam

Touring The Amsterdam

We headed first for the north door that led straight out to a wharf and the docked replica of the Amsterdam. What a sight! The huge hull rose several storeys above our heads, above which soared three masts.

Old style three masted ship moored at the Maritime Museum in Amsterdam
A replica of the East Indiaman Amsterdam at the National Maritime Museum

We boarded the ship and were immediately engulfed by a posse of schoolchildren all wearing yellow safety vests and swarming through the sailors’ quarters. Apart from the kids, the quarters looked spacious until I realized the space would house a crew of 191 sweaty sailors. The smells and swells on a rough day at sea would not have been pretty.

Interior of Amsterdam tall ship at the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam
Sailors quarters in the Amsterdam tall ship at the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam

Information about the Amsterdam

Throughout the ship, descriptions in both English and Dutch provided fascinating glimpses into the history of the original Amsterdam and Dutch trade back in the 17th and 18th centuries. I learned that on one voyage, the Amsterdam carried one captain, 191 sailors, 128 marines, 11 artisans, and 3 women passengers for a total of 334 people. That’s a lot of bodies to squeeze onto a ship that, while large, wasn’t that large. I found it a bit crowded with a school group of maybe 30 kids!

Eating on the Amsterdam

In the galley at the front of the ship, the cook would prepare meals for everyone on board, who would then take turns eating in groups of seven. The captain and passengers got the best and freshest food, leaving the crew to half starve and fall prey to diseases such as typhus, dysentery, and scurvy. It must have been pretty grim, particularly since long voyages to destinations in the East Indies took many, many months.

Women Dressed as Men

I was particularly taken by a description of women dressed as men who sailed on the Dutch ships. Some were forced by circumstances to earn money; some were likely trying to escape an unhappy marriage; some maybe just wanted adventure. Unfortunately, any woman who was trying to pass herself off as a man on a ship was severely punished.

In 1770, a woman called Margereta Reymers dressed as a man and joined the crew of the East Indiaman Schoonzicht under the name Hans Hendrik Reymers on a ship sailing to Asia. Margereta was discovered two months into the voyage and put ashore at Cape Town where a man who had promised to marry her left her pregnant.

Eventually, Margereta managed to find a place on a ship returning to the Netherlands. Her daughter was born at sea. No one knows what happened to Margereta and her daughter afterwards. Hmmm – therein lies an interesting idea for a novel!

The Maritime Museum Exhibits

The museum itself is quite vast and beautifully curated. If you are into ships, navigation, and sailing, you could spend many happy hours there. I particularly enjoyed the displays of figureheads and model ships.

Exhibit at the Maritime Museum of Amsterdam of figureheads from old ships
Exhibit at the maritime Museum in Amsterdam of model ships

For more information about the National Maritime Museum, check out their informative website: https://www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.com/

After touring the National Maritime Museum, we enjoyed lunch in a typical Dutch pub, then headed to the Rembrandt House Museum, which was about a ten minute walk from our hotel.

The Rembrandt House Museum

Unlike the National Maritime Museum, I had heard about the Rembrandt House Museum, but had never managed to visit it. I thought it would be a rather dusty old place with little to recommend it beyond the fact that Rembrandt once lived there.

I discovered that I was wrong and that the Rembrandt House Museum is well worth an hour of any artsy traveler’s time.

Renovated Museum

The museum has been recently renovated to include an adjacent building containing the entrance area, a gift shop (of course), and two floors of exhibition space.

We entered the airy modern foyer, purchased our tickets and picked up our audio guides. We don’t usually go for audio guides, but the man at the desk told us they were essential to our enjoyment of the museum and so we dutifully donned the earphones and headed for door leading into the house that Rembrandt called home for 19 years.

Touring Rembrandt House

For the next hour or so, we drifted from room to room and up several sets of winding staircases to explore the nooks and crannies of what was—and still is—a large and comfortable home. Rembrandt was flying high when he and his wife purchased the house. He was receiving many commissions in addition to earning a sizable chunk of his income from teaching wannabe Rembrandts.

But regrettably, Rembrandt was not the best of businessmen. After nineteen years of enjoying the good life, Rembrandt’s many creditors forced him to sell just about everything not nailed down and move across town.

Rembrandt’s Misfortunes are History’s Gains

I learned that it was thanks to Rembrandt’s financial misfortunes that his house has been so immaculately recreated. When Rembrandt was forced to liquidate all his assets, he left behind an extremely detailed inventory of the house contents. Historians were able to use this inventory to faithfully recreate the rooms in his house so that today we can wander through them secure in the knowledge that they looked more or less the same as they did in Rembrandt’s day—except with electric light and tourists listening to audio guides.

The comprehensive audio guide provided us with a wealth of information about each of the rooms we entered—from grand salon to the room of curiosities to Rembrandt’s gorgeously bright and airy painting studio. In each room, audio commentary described the room and its uses, and provided information about Rembrandt’s life and work.

Rembrandt House Highlights

Box Beds

One of several box beds in the house was situated in the main salon, and like every box bed in the house (there were several) was much shorter than would seem reasonable to accommodate an average-sized human. I learned that back in Rembrandt’s time, people slept sitting up and so had no need of a bed that extended their full height. Apparently, the prevailing medical wisdom of the day dictated that sleeping completely prone was very bad for the health. Peering into the box beds, I shuddered at the thought of actually sleeping in one. If you are at all prone to claustrophobia, you wouldn’t last ten minutes.

The box bed shown below was in the main salon and would be for visitors.

Box bed in Rembrandt Hour in Amsterdam
Box bed for visitors
Etching Studio

Rembrandt was known for his etchings, many of which he made in the etching studio. Nowadays, a rubber-gloved attendant demonstrates the art of etching. Unfortunately, we missed her demonstration but it was likely very similar to the one we saw at the house of Albrecht Dürer in Nuremberg. In fact, the setup of the Rembrandt House Museum reminded me of the Dürer museum. You can read about our visit there in my page about Artsy Sightseeing in Germany.

Printing press in Rembrandt House museum etching room
Painting Studio

Stepping into Rembrandt’s large painting studio feels quite magical. Although now filled with visitors all listening intently to their audio guides, it’s salutary to remember that you are actually treading the same floor boards and looking out the same windows as Rembrandt did four hundred years previously.

The room faces north, an aspect favored by painters because the light varies the least throughout the day. The studio is at the top of the house and so would have been as bright and airy as any room in a 17th- century house could be.

Easel where Rembrandt worked at the Rembrandt House Museum in Amsterdam
Large painting studio where Rembrandt painted aat the Rembrandt House Museum in Amsterdam

The studio includes a large video screen that shows a demonstration of how Rembrandt and his assistants made pigments. I’m familiar with the process of grinding and mixing the pigments from my research for The Towers of Tuscany. But whereas my characters in 14th-century Italy mixed their pigments with egg yolks, Rembrandt and his contemporaries mixed pigments with linseed oil.

Colors used to make paint at the Rembrandt House Museum in Amsterdam
Small Painting Studio

I was quite taken with the second painting studio which was partitioned into four sections to accommodate four students.The whole setup looked so modern. Apparently, Rembrandt made 30% of his annual income from students, but even that income wasn’t enough to keep him afloat. I wonder what became of the students after Rembrandt had to liquidate!

But check out these studios. Many artists would feel quite at home in one today!

Student cubicles at the Rembrandt House Museum in Amsterdam
The Room of Curiosities

Like many people of his time, particularly artists, Rembrandt was an avid collector. His many collections fill the room of curiosities–from parrot feathers and stuffed caimans and armadillos, to tortoise shells, butterflies, rocks, and a hundred other exotic bits and pieces he accumulated over the years. Amsterdam, of course, was a port, and so Rembrandt was able to acquire objects from around the globe that had been brought to Amsterdam by the sailors.

Room of Curiosities at the Rembrandt House museum in Amsterdam
Exhibition Center

After touring Rembrandt’s house, we funneled back into the exhibition center. There wasn’t much on when we were there, but I did appreciate the projection of a montage of Rembrandt’s greatest hits.

Montage of Rembrandt's works at the Rembrandt House Museum in Amsterdam

Visiting Rembrandt’s House

For more information and to purchase tickets, check out the Rembrandt House website: https://www.rembrandthuis.nl/en/

You can also purchase your tickets in advance from Get Your Guide. As I’ve mentioned many times on Artsy Traveler, I’m a big fan of Get Your Guide. Click the image below to go to their website.

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Wandering Around Amsterdam

On my stopover in Amsterdam in 2024, I stayed only two nights, but still managed to log several kilometers of wandering. Amsterdam is a fantastic city for walking, so long as you keep a very sharp eye out for cyclists. They go very, very fast! I wonder how many tourists who stepped off a curb without looking ended up in Emergency.

In the evening of our only full day in Amsterdam, we met Gregg’s artist friend Rik Lina in his home and went out for a wonderful Caribbean dinner. Here Rik is with Gregg in front of one of his paintings. He and Gregg have been collaborating for years. Notice the collection of masks. Like Rembrandt, Rik is an avid collector.

Dutch artist Rik Lina in front of one of his paintings with Canadian artist Gregg Simpson
Dutch artist Rik Lina in front of one of his paintings with Canadian artist Gregg Simpson

Amsterdam at Night

After dinner, we strolled through Amsterdam in the moonlight, crossing many canals and passing an endless number of intriguing storefronts. Amsterdam has an admirably eclectic variety of stores carrying everything from Old Master knock-offs to rubber duckies to high fashion to painted cows. I adore window shopping in Amsterdam.

Painted cows in a shop in Amsterdam
Painted cows in a shop in Amsterdam

Amsterdam at night truly is magical! The side streets are quiet, the canals serene in the moonlight, the bike traffic considerably calmed. You can wander for hours, imagining yourself into a cityscape that hasn’t changed appreciably for four hundred odd years.

View of Amsterdam's iconic houses at night

Other Tours in Amsterdam

There’s so much to see in Amsterdam for the artsy traveler! I highly recommend booking one of the Get Your Guide tours, if only to skip the line at the most popular museums. I’ve consistently found Get Your Guide tours to be good value, and have taken them in Rome, Venice, Paris, Madrid, and Sirmione. Here are links to Get Your Guide tours in Amsterdam.

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I also often purchase tickets and tours through Tiqets.com. Here are some options for Amsterdam.

And finally, check out a walking tour with GuruWalks. They offer these tours in Amsterdam:

Staying in Amsterdam

Over the years, I’ve stayed in many different places in Amsterdam–from Airbnbs to hotels on the outskirts. Our stay in 2024 was one of the best–and also the most reasonably priced considering the location and amenities.

I’m not usually a big fan of chain hotels, but to my surprise the Holiday Inn Express – City Hall in Amsterdam, steps from the harbor and within walking distance of old Amsterdam, was a perfect choice. The view of the canal from our window was endlessly fascinating depending on the time of day and the shifting April weather, the room was comfortable, and the staff friendly and helpful.

View of canals from the window of a room at the Holiday Inn Express - city Hall in Amsterdam
View of canals from the window of a room at the Holiday Inn Express – City Hall in Amsterdam

I also appreciated the large urn full of citrus fruits and water in the lobby. Every time I came into the hotel, I helped myself to a refreshing glass of citrus water.

Here are other options for staying in Amsterdam. I recommend you resist the temptation to opt for the cheaper places outside the city center. Amsterdam is worth the splurge. Book a place as close to the ring of canals as you can and enjoy many happy hours of wandering–particularly after dark.

 

Conclusion

Have you visited Amsterdam? What are some of your best picks? Share your experiences in the comments below.

For more about Amsterdam, check out these posts:

Carol Cram in Sirmione on Lake Garda in northern Italy

Sirmione on Lake Garda: Experience the Magic of Staying Overnight

Arts & Culture, Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Sirmione on Lake Garda: Experience the Magic of Staying Overnight

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:28 pm

The tiny resort town of Sirmione on Lake Garda in northern Italy is truly magical. Stay overnight and you’ll have the picturesque, stone-arched streets and cypress-dotted parks to yourself.

I spent 21 hours there and loved every minute of it.

In this post, I share what I did during those 21 hours, including taking a boat trip, visiting a interesting Roman archeological site, and taking peaceful walks around a peninsula that is mobbed during the day but extremely quiet and calm in the evenings and early mornngs.

A blog cover image featuring a sunset over Lake Garda and the Sirmione castle, with the word “Sirmione” in bold text and the website "ARTSYTRAVELER.COM" at the bottom.

Sirmione Highlights at a Glance

Where is Sirmione?

Located at the south end of Lake Garda, cute-as-a-button Sirmione occupies the very tippy tip of a long peninsula jutting into the lake. Lake Garda is new to me, and it certainly lives up to its reputation as one of Italy’s premier lakes. It is also the biggest lake in a country that has a lot of lakes.

Consider a trip to Sirmione if you’re en route to Venice, Verona, Milan, and other towns in northern Italy.

Arriving in Sirmione

Gregg and I drive up the peninsula to reach Sirmione (#1) at the southern end of Lake Garda. We sensibly snag a parking place outside the old town and alongside the lake, which at three o’clock in the afternoon is an unearthly shade of turquoise blue. Even in the tropics, I’ve never seen a color like it. A strong wind is sweeping the lake into a riot of whitecaps that splash sparkling billows of water against the shore.

We walk to the harbor and cross the bridge under the shadow of Scaligero Castle, which is Sirmione’s iconic medieval castle (#2) that guards the entrance to the old town. With its square towers with crenelated tops, the castle resembles exactly the kind of castle a child would draw.

An ancient stone castle in Sirmione, Italy, featuring crenelated towers, arched gates, and a moat with turquoise water, under a partly cloudy sky.
Scaligero Castle guards the entrance to the historic town of Sirmione

Visitors pack the streets. If it’s this crowded in April, I’d hate to see what it looks like in the summer. I have read that summer crowds can make Sirmione almost impossible to visit. Fortunately, while large, the crowds are not ridiculous. We easily navigate our way past souvenir shops and gelato places (note to self – return after dinner) to find the Hotel Flaminia.

Orientation to Sirmione

The map below shows the places mentioned in this post. Click a number for more information.

Hotel Flaminia

The three-storey Hotel Flaminia has old-world elegance and, although gorgeously situated lakeside, is not unreasonably priced at around 200 euros for the night. A highlight is the terrace that juts into the lake. In summer, you could jump right in for a swim. Although the sun is warm in April, no one is swimming so I presume the water is not yet toasty enough.

A woman with sunglasses and a floral dress sitting on a deck chair under a large umbrella, smiling with Lake Garda and lush greenery in the background.
Relaxing with a drink on the terrace at the Hotel Flaminia on the shores of Lake Garda

After checking into the Hotel Flaminia, we returned to our car and moved it to a gated parking lot. From there, we and our luggage rode a golf cart back into the town. Very efficient!

A serene view of Lake Garda with clear turquoise water, reeds in the foreground, and mountains beneath a bright blue sky with scattered
View of Lake Garda from our parking place

Here’s a view of the Hotel Flaminia from Lake Garda that I took the next day while on our Lake Garda boat tour.

A white villa with balconies and terraces, viewed from the water, surrounded by other buildings and outdoor seating with umbrellas.
Hotel Flaminia seen from the boat tour on Lake Garda

Wandering Around Sirmione

After getting settled in our lovely, high-ceilinged room, we eat a sandwich at a cafe with very friendly staff to stave off hunger (having not had much lunch).

Gregg then returns to the room to recover from the six-hour drive from the French Alps and I do my favorite thing when first arriving in a new place—wandering. I set off through the maze of narrow streets to see what is at the end of the peninsula.

My walk takes me past a number of interesting shops. The usual tourist dreck packs a few of them, but several sell really nice-looking items.

I stop to covet a lemon-patterned salad bowl with matching salad tongs. If they can ship it to Canada, I just might buy it. Unfortunately, they inform me sadly that they don’t offer shipping to Canada, so I make do buying a ceramic lemon to put on my desk to remind me of Sirmione.

Maria Callas

The shops soon give way to ever larger villas, including the Termi di Catulla a complext of thermal baths, where I find a plaque honoring Maria Callas, the great opera singer.

I’d recently finished reading Diva by British author Daisy Goodwin about Callas’s life and had interviewed Daisy for The Art In Fiction Podcast a few weeks later, so I knew that Callas had once lived in Sirmione. Inside the hotel is a small display of some of her costumes and jewelry.

A display of an ornate costume worn by Maria Callas, featuring a turquoise gown with intricate embroidery and a yellow cape, encased in glass with a pearl necklace and an open book at the base.
Costume worn by Maria Callas

After admiring the Callas display, I carry on past Maria Callas Park to walk to the Grotto Cattalus. Along the way, I enjoy stunning views of stately cypresses, snow-dusted mountains, and wind-whipped waves. I am smitten.

Dinner in Sirmione

Dinner that evening is a charming and tasty affair. The wind is sending cutlery and napkins on the outdoor tables flying, so we opt to sit inside. Also, the evening air in April is not warm even though daytime temperatures are comfortable.

I order a shrimp tagliatelle that comes with a sauce I’d be happy to marry. Service is efficient and unsmiling. I get the impression that the staff are weary after a long day of serving tourists. Can’t say I blamed them!

I snap this photo of the setting sun as seen from the piazza just outside the restaurant.

A picturesque sunset over Lake Garda, with a sky filled with golden and orange clouds, calm waters reflecting the colors, and silhouetted mountains in the background.
Sunset Over Lake Garda

Evening Walk in Sirmione

After dinner, we scurry back to our hotel to replace my optimistic capris and sandals with long pants, socks, shoes, and a jacket, then venture out for an evening amble and to enjoy the glorious sunset over Lake Garda. Most of the tourists have disappeared, and we have the streets to ourselves.

We walk as far as the Termi di Catullo to admire the Maria Callas plaque, then return to our warm hotel room for the night.

A poster with the text “CALLAS SEMPRE CALLAS” and an image of Maria Callas's face, promoting an exhibition of her costumes and jewelry at Aquaria Hall in Sirmione, Italy.
Maria Callas is one of Sirmione’s most famous former residents

Maria Callas is not the only famous person to maintain a villa in Sirmione. Former residents include writers Ezra Pound, James Joyce, Aldous Huxley, Tennyson and Goethe. Churchill also hung out for a while in Sirmione.

A Morning in Sirmione

The next morning, we decide to enjoy Sirmione right until the noon checkout when the golf cart is scheduled to arrive at the hotel to take us back to our parking place.

The day dawns clear and warm—the complete opposite to the cloudy and chilly weather predicted on my phone.

After breakfast, we saunter out into the still empty streets and stroll all the way up the peninsula en route to visit the Grottoes of Catullus.

Villa of Maria Callus

On our way, we pass the beautiful yellow villa (#3) that Maria Callas lived in with her husband. What a place! Imagine being her neighbor back in the day and hearing her voice soaring out over the pines as she practiced her arias for a performance at La Scala in Milan, a few hours away. Talk about magical!

A yellow multi-story villa with arched windows and a prominent tower, surrounded by greenery and a gated entrance, under a clear blue sky.
Villa in which Maria Callas lived

Grottoes of Catallus

The grottoes turn out to be the remains of  Roman villa built between the end of the 1st century BCE and the beginning of the 1st century CE.

Called grotte di catullo in Italian, the ruins were rediscovered in the 15th century and at first resembled caves, hence the name “grottoes.” Over the centuries, archaeologists slowly unearthed a remarkable complex that must have been a Roman billionaire’s dream palace.

The grottoes were named after the poet Catullus because his poems had just been rediscovered around the time the grottoes/villa was found. In his 31st poem, Catullus described love of his beloved house in Sirmione. He wrote:

Sirmio, jewel of islands, jewel of peninsulas, with what joy, what pleasure I gaze at you.

Despite his raving about the place, there is no evidence linking Catallus to this particular villa, mostly because he died before it was built.

A bronze bust of the Roman poet Gaius Valerius Catullus atop a stone pedestal engraved with his name and dates (87 BC – 54 BC), set against a dramatic sunset by Lake Garda with a tree silhouette and benches in the background.
Statue of the Roman poet Catullus

Anyway, the name stuck, and wow—the site is definitely worth a visit. The villa is situated on a promontory at the very top of the peninsula with stunning views of the lake and mountains.

On a warm and breezy April day with few other tourists around, enjoying the lake views during a leisurely ramble among olive groves atop the ruins are an artsy traveler’s dream come true.

A woman with sunglasses and a gray jacket stands smiling at a viewpoint, leaning on a metal railing. Behind her, Lake Garda stretches out under a clear sky, with Roman ruins visible nearby.
Overlooking the Roman ruins and the view across Lake Garda

Video of the Panorama

Here’s a video that captures the sublime view above the Roman ruins.

We happily snap many photos, and then descend to the museum. Unfortunately, several school groups have just arrived, and despite the many attempts of shushing by the teachers, fill the small space with their chatter.

How wonderful it must be to grow up in a country where school outings take you to a Roman villa! One little girl looks up at us as we pass and cheerfully wishes us buon giorno.

We do a quick walk through the museum. It is small but filled with some good-looking frescoes and various finds from the archaeological dig.

Don’t Miss the Shuttle!

After our visit, we catch the little shuttle that ferries visitors from the site back to the Termi di Catullo for a mere €1.20 each.

A small red and white-striped tourist train with open carriages sits on a road surrounded by olive trees. The driver is visible at the front, and a few people walk nearby under a bright blue sky.
Shuttle gave weary legs a break in Sirmione

Our next stop—a lake cruise!

Cruise on Lake Garda

I’m a big fan of the GetYourGuide website that in my experience always delivers excellent tours. I’ve booked through them several times and have yet to be disappointed. Our 25-minute boat tour around Sirmione is no exception. Check times below and book early.

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We walk out to the tiny harbor at the foot of the castle and easily find the blue umbrella at the Lake Garda Tours kiosk. At the time of our visit, two tours are available—at 11 am and 5 pm. I booked the earlier tour the night before.

We quickly check in and promptly at 11 am, about 15 of us are taken to a spacious open boat with comfortable seating that ensures spectacular views of the lake and Sirmione.

Enjoying the Cruise

The tour around the peninsula really is delightful. We motor up the west side of the peninsula past the Villa Flaminia and many other gorgeous villas. The guide points out Maria Callas’s distinctive yellow villa that we saw earlier that morning.

Here’s a video taken from the boat.

We round the top of the peninsula and enjoy the view of the impressive ruins at the Grottoes of Catallus (#4) that we just toured.

Ruins of an ancient Roman villa, surrounded by lush greenery, rise above Lake Garda. The crumbling stone walls stand tall under a bright blue sky, with clear water in the foreground.
Grottoes of Catallus seen from the Lake Garda boat cruise

On our way down the east side of the peninsula, the skipper stops the boat and points out the bubbles in the water. Apparently, they are the result of hot springs far below, gurgling away at 70 degrees centigrade which is pretty darned hot.

One of the reasons that Sirmione has been so popular over the millennia is the thermal hot springs. Imagine all those retired Roman generals coming here for spa days to soothe their battle-wearied bones.

At the end of the tour, we all bend very low to cruise beneath a small bridge connecting the old town and castle area to the rest of the peninsula. The whole experience is thoroughly enjoyable on a breezy and bright April day.

I highly recommend a boat trip as one of the top things to do in Sirmione!

A medieval castle with stone walls and tall towers sits on the edge of Lake Garda in Sirmione, Italy. The calm blue water reflects the castle, while colorful buildings line the background under a clear sky.
Approaching the castle and the end of the lake cruise

Farewell to Sirmione

After the cruise, we duck around the crowds to return to the Hotel Flaminia where, precisely at noon as booked, the golf cart rounds the corner into the Piazza Flaminia. Moments later, we and our luggage are loaded aboard and off we go to where we parked the car.

Our visit to Sirmione has been short but definitely worthwhile. I’d like to return in the summer to explore Lake Garda and also to swim in the lake, which is allegedly fantastic, although the crowds are even denser. 

However, even in summer, if you stay overnight you’ll likely have the streets to yourself in the evening and early morning, which more than makes up for having to dodge fellow tourists during the busy midday hours.

Staying in Sirmione

Sirmione has plenty of hotels to choose from. You can sleep in the old town like we did (recommended), choose a place along the lake shore that stretches either side of the peninsula, or select one of the many hotels located on the long road that bisects the peninsula to end at the bridge leading to the town.

The Hotel Flaminia where we stayed is elegant, perfectly located, and not too expensive.

Most of hotels in the old town are pretty pricey, with rates at some of the five-star villas stratospheric. Check Trip Advisor and Booking.com for options.

Parking Considerations

If you choose a hotel outside the town walls, you’ll either need to walk a long way or drive to the parking lots on the peninsula that I should imagine in summer fill up very fast. Even in April, we had to park quite a long way from the entrance to the town.

I’m so glad we chose a place in the old town. The Hotel Flaminia offered parking for an extra 16 euros in a lot outside the walls and as mentioned, threw in transport via golf cart from the car park to the hotel.

Before you book, check the parking situation. You definitely don’t want to book a hotel that requires you to drive into the old town. I felt sorry for the people inching their cars through the extremely narrow streets en route to their hotels.

Other Tours Around Sirmione

I’m a big fan of GetYourGuide tours. I’ve consistently found them to be good value for money. Here are links to more Get Your Guide tours from Sirmione:

Powered by GetYourGuide

You can also purchase tickets and tours through Tiqets.com, another company I use frequently.

Conclusion

Have you visited Sirmione? Where did you stay? What did you do? Share any information that may interest other artsy travelers in the comments below.

Here are some more posts about travels in Italy:

Carol Cram at Pratto del Valle in Prato

A Week in Fascinating Little Padua Reveals Hidden Treasures

Arts & Culture, Destinations, Europe, Italy Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on A Week in Fascinating Little Padua Reveals Hidden Treasures

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:28 pm

Thinking of visiting Padua. Called Padova in Itatlian, this historic city in northern Italy is just a quick train ride from Venice.

With plenty of things to do and see, Padua will keep the Artsy Traveler well entertained for several days.

In this post, I share how I spent my week in Padua that included day trips to Venice and Vicenza.

A travel graphic featuring the scenic Prato della Valle and the courtyard of Palazzo Bo, highlighting hidden treasures in Padua. Ideal for trip planning inspiration.

Padua Highlights at a Glance

Overview

So why was I in Padua for a week, instead of Venice, its more famous neighbor? First, I’ve visited and stayed in Venice several times and felt it was time to explore more of the Veneto. Second, my husband Gregg Simpson (who is an artist) had an exhibition in Padua.

I’d heard Padua was worth visiting in its own right and so looked forward to exploring this new-to-us town. I visited in November–a chilly time in northern Italy (take a good, warm coat!).

On the upside, late November is also the time of the Chocolate Festival where dozens of booths groaning with all kinds of chocolate confections lined the piazzas in the center of Padua. Needless to say, we sampled our fair share.

A plate of assorted chocolates and truffles, showcasing a delicious treat to enjoy while exploring Padua. Perfect for foodies visiting the city.

Give Padua At Least Two Days

In your travel planning, don’t make Padua and Venice an either/or option. Instead, build time in your itinerary to visit both.

You can easily see Padua’s main attractions and enjoy the laid-back ambiance in a relaxed three-night stay, or keep yourself busy for a week like I did.

If you only have time to make a short stop in the city of Padua, then squeeze in a flying visit to Padua’s main Artsy Traveler highlight–the Giotto frescsoes in the Scrovegni Chapel. Just make sure you’ve booked well in advance of your visit (more on that in a minute).

But a day in Padua is not enough. I suggest you slow down, book a place in Padua’s historic city center, and stay awhile. There are plenty of things to do in Padua, which yields up its treasures with a measured delight.

Map of Padua

The map below includes all of the sites mentioned in this post in addition to the location of the wonderful apartment I rented, about a 15-minute walk from the center of town.

  1. Scrovegni Chapel
  2. Musei Civici Eremitani
  3. Anatomical Theatre of Padua in the Palazzo Po
  4. University of Padua Botanical Garden
  5. Prato dell Valle
  6. Padua Cathedral
  7. Recommended Apartment on the Via dell Palme
  8. Piazza dei Signori
  9. Piazza della Erbe
  10. Palazzo della Ragione

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

Powered by GetYourGuide

Scrovegni Chapel

I’ll start with the heaviest hitter of them all, sightseeing-wise–the Giotto frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel known in Italian as the Cappella degli Scrovegni. On any Padua itinerary, the Scrovegni Chapel deserves the top spot.

I visited on Day 7 of my stay in Padua, which made for a stunning finale to our week.

When I left the next day to fly home from Milan, visions of Giotto’s exquisitely rendered figures still danced in my head.

Buy Tickets for the Scrovegni Chapel in Advance

As soon as you know the date you plan to be in Padua, buy your tickets for the Scrovegni Chapel, the earlier the better.

Don’t wait until the last minute! The chapel was sold out weeks in advance of my November visit. Same-day tickets are not available.

Here’s the link to purchase tickets from the official site. If tickets are sold out on the official site you may be able to get a ticket by signing up for a tour through GetYourGuide. Here’s an option:

Powered by GetYourGuide

Once you’ve booked your ticket, just show up at your appointed time and prepare to be blown away.

Starting Your Scrovegni Chapel Visit

Your visit starts with a walk through beautifully landscaped gardens from the visitor center to the chapel. Since everyone who visits the chapel must book in advance, you pretty much have the place to yourself apart from the thirty or so people who will be in your viewing group.

The exterior of the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua, surrounded by lush greenery and clear blue skies. An iconic landmark and a treasure trove of Renaissance art.
Approaching the Scrovengi Chapel

You arrive outside the hermetically sealed doors that separate you from a specially built anteroom adjacent to the chapel.

Make sure you arrive a good ten minutes early. The visits are timed very precisely with no provisions made for latecomers.

At your appointed time–not a second too early or too late–the automatic doors swish open. You glimpse the party who visited the chapel before you leaving from another door as you file into the anteroom and take a seat.

Here you will watch a fascinating video (English subtitles) about Giotto’s world-famous frescoes.

I’m partial to 14th Century Italian art and as such, I’m a bit of a Giotto fan girl. I thoroughly enjoyed the description of the fresco cycle. The work is considered one of Giotto’s greatest masterpieces, and is a wonderful example of the artistic revolution that Giotto brought to Western art. 

Giotto completed the frescoes in just two years, between 1303 and 1305. The frescoes cover the entire interior of the Chapel and narrate the History of Salvation.

Entering the Chapel

After the film, you are invited to stand. Seconds later, another automatic door swishes open and finally, you file into the chapel itself. Gasps of wonder fill the air as each individual quietly takes in the awe-inspiring frescoes.

Guides are prohibited so the only sounds are whispers and the muted blips of cell phones and cameras (no flashes allowed, of course) making futile attempts to capture the majesty of the space.

It’s impossible. Pictures don’t do it justice, but here are a few of mine, to give you an idea of what you’ll see.

Giotto's depiction of the arrest of Christ, featuring dramatic expressions and intricate details in the Scrovegni Chapel. A highlight of Padua's artistic heritage.
This panel shows the first kiss depicted in Western art — Judas kissing Jesus before betraying him
A fresco by Giotto in the Scrovegni Chapel, depicting the lamentation of Christ with vivid expressions and rich colors. A must-see for art lovers in Padua.
Mary at the tomb of Jesus – the expressions on the faces are so human
A detailed fresco by Giotto in Padua, depicting biblical scenes with vivid colors and lifelike expressions. A masterpiece to admire while exploring Padua’s cultural treasures.
This panel shows the Scrovegni Chapel

Why Giotto?

The big deal about Giotto is the naturalism of his figures–a major departure from the stiff, 2D figures common at the time. Giotto’s figures look like real people wearing clothes that drape naturally over real bodies.

You get precisely 15 minutes to enjoy the chapel before the automatic doors again swish open and you file out.

On your way, you see the next group preparing to enter, and envy them their first glimpse of the chapel interior. All you have now are your pictures and your memories.

Musei Civici Eremitani

After visiting the Chapel, you can visit the Musei Civici Eremitani, which contains the Archaeological Museum of Padua and the Museum of Medieval and Modern Art. Both are worth checking out.

Archaeological Museum of Padua

Padua is one of the oldest cities in Italy, which becomes abundantly clear when you visit the Archaeological Museum.

Here, you’ll find a fascinating collection from the pre-Roman era (8th-3rd century BC), decorated vases from the third Atestine period (6th-5th century BC), Paleo-Venetian steles, votive objects, Etruscan, Italic and Paleo-Venetian bronzes, Egyptian art, and an extensive Roman section.

If you like ancient artifacts, this museum is definitely worth a visit.

Museum of Medieval and Modern Art

The museum contains around 3000 paintings from the 14th to the 19th centuries, including works by such luminaries as Giorgione, Tiziano Vecellio, Giotto, Tintoretto, Veronese, Canova, Tiepolo, and Bellini, among many others.

Anatomical Theater in the Palazzo Bo 

My cousin, who is a physician, advised me to visit the anatomical theater at the University of Padua, and I’m very glad I did.

It’s accessible only via an entertaining guided tour given in English by a student. In addition to visiting the famous anatomical theater, you’ll view some of the ornately decorated public rooms in the Palazzo Bo, which is part of one of Europe’s oldest universities.

You’ll also learn that Galileo Galilei was a professor at the University of Padua from 1592 to 1610.

Tour of the Palazzo Po

The grand courtyard of Palazzo Bo in Padua, featuring elegant arches and classical architecture. A significant historical site in the heart of Padua.
Attractive colonnades at the Palazzo Bo

I very much enjoyed the tour of the Palazzo Bo that included these striking murals of some of the university’s most illustrious students over the centuries.

The historic Palazzo Bo in Padua, a hub of academic excellence and home to the University of Padua. A recommended stop for learning about the city’s intellectual heritage.

Anatomical Theater at Padua University

Inaugurated in 1595, the anatomical theater at the University of Padua is the world’s first permanent anatomical theater. According to Fabio Zampieri, an associate professor at the university: “To build a permanent theater for anatomy was in some sense revolutionary because it meant to place anatomy as the foundation of medical studies.”

At the time, the Church wasn’t keen on dissecting bodies, so having a purpose-built anatomical theater was kind of a big deal in the evolution of medical knowledge.

The theater is surprisingly tiny and cramped. Back in the day, up to 250 students and professors crowded into the tiered space to look down at the dissection of a human cadaver far below.

Most of the cadavers had belonged either to executed criminals or deceased hospital patients.

With its six elliptical rings circling skyward, the theater seems to mimic the shape of an eye or telescope. Under the main entrance to the theater, a 16th-century Latin inscription reads, “This is a place where the dead are pleased to help the living.”

Cheerful stuff.

A close-up view of the intricate wooden details of the Anatomical Theater of Padua, a marvel of craftsmanship. A must-visit for history and science enthusiasts.
View from the bottom of the anatomical theater

As part of the tour, I ducked under a low door to enter the bottom of the theater where the cadaver would be laid out for the professor to dissect.

It was exceedingly creepy to stand in the narrow space and look up at the six tiers where the spectators would stand. According to the guide, the railing encircling each tier was just high enough to prevent an observer from toppling forward when they fainted.

Apparently, people frequently fainted in the confined–and likely very pungent–space. I shuddered and was happy to move on to the rest of the tour.

A detailed model of the historical Anatomical Theater of Padua, showcasing its circular design used for medical studies. A fascinating site for those interested in Padua's academic history.
Scale model of the anatomical theater showing the six tiers around which up to 250 spectators would gather and look down

First Woman to Earn a Degree

A highlight at the end of the tour was the statue of Elena Lucrezia Cornora, the first woman in the world to receive a university degree. The daughter of a wealthy Venetian family, she originally wanted to receive a degree in Theology. The bishop of Padua wouldn’t allow that, but did allow her to get a degree in Philosophy in 1678. Big of him.

Palazzo della Ragione

Built in the 13th century, the Palazzo della Ragione is located in the Piazza delle Erbe and resembles a huge upturned ship. Until the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the Palazzo functioned as the town hall and palace of justice.

On the second floor is the Great Hall, believed to be one of the largest medieval halls still existing. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the walls of the Great Hall are completely frescoed. It’s a pretty impressive place!

Pratto delle Valle

The Pratto delle Valle has to be one of the most beautiful public spaces in Europe. It’s an oval-shaped island encircled by a canal in the center of a grand piazza.

On a brilliantly sunny day in November, it was a delightful place to wander around. Here are two views of the Pratto dell Valle, mercifully uncrowded in mid-morning.

The iconic Prato della Valle in Padua, with its circular canal, white statues, and historic buildings in the background. A central attraction for visitors to Padua.
Pratto delle Valle in Padua
The iconic Prato della Valle in Padua, with its circular canal, white statues, and historic buildings in the background. A central attraction for visitors to Padua.

I visited twice–once when it was empty and the second time when it was packed with one of the largest outdoor markets I’ve seen in Europe.

You could buy just about anything you wanted–from clothing to gloves to food to flowers to Christmas decorations. I picked up gloves to ward off the November chill and I treated myself to yet another new purse.

Italy is such a great place to buy purses!

Botanical Gardens

Created in 1545, the botanical garden (Orto Botanico) in Padua is the world’s first botanical garden and is a surprising highlight, even in November.

The garden still preserves its original layout – a circular central plot, symbolizing the world, surrounded by a ring of water. Most of the plants were dormant, but a few trees were still decked out in their autumnal glory.

Vibrant autumn leaves in Padua, showcasing shades of red and gold against a clear blue sky. A picturesque sight for nature enthusiasts exploring Padua.

I particularly enjoyed the new exhibition center (inaugurated in February 2023) that is part of the gardens. A series of well laid out displays–many of them interactive (English and Italian)–showcase the history of the botanical garden, its plants, and the people who collected them.

The Botanical Museum in Padua, a bright orange building surrounded by lush greenery, perfect for history and plant lovers. A highlight of Padua’s botanical garden experience.
Exhibition space at the Botanical Gardens

Day Trips from Padua

Thanks to an excellent rail system, Padua is a great home base to make day trips throughout the Veneto region. During my week in Padua, I visited Vicenza and Venice.

If you have the time, you could also visit nearby Verona.

Vicenza Day Trip

Many years ago when I was student studying for a Master’s degree in Drama at the University of Toronto, I had a professor who waxed lyrical about the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza.

She described how she arrived at the building housing the 16th-century theater just before closing and was denied entry. Apparently, she burst into tears, so intent was she to see this masterpiece of Palladian and theatrical architecture. Fortunately, the guard took pity on her and let her in.

Ever since then, I’ve longed to visit Vicenza’a Teatro Olimpico. This pretty town is a short train ride from Padua, and so I set off on a blue sky day to check it out.

Visit to the Teatro Olimpico

Located in the Piazza Matteotti, a short taxi ride from the train station, the Teatro Olimpico is the world’s first indoor theater constructed with interiors made of wood, stucco and plaster.

The great architect Andrea Palladio built the theater between 1580 and 1585. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The design of the theater is inspired by ancient Roman theaters and features an elliptical terraced auditorium, framed by a colonnade, and a frieze topped by statues.

The audience seating area at the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza, featuring red-upholstered benches and a painted sky ceiling. A must-see near Padua for theater and architecture enthusiasts.
The elliptical auditorium where I sat facing the stage

The rectangular stage is bound by a massive proscenium with two orders of architecture and consisting of three arcades that are divided by half-columns. As you sit in the steeply tiered auditorium, you peer into the arcades to see shadowy streets curving into darkness.

The grand stage of the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza, showcasing Renaissance-style design and artistic depth. A recommended activity for visitors to Padua interested in architecture and the arts.

Sound and Light Show at the Teatro Olimpico

At regular intervals, visitors to the Teatro Olimpico are treated to a rousing sound and light show where a myriad of colored spotlights plays across the proscenium to the accompaniment of stirring music.

It’s pretty over-the-top and yet a fitting tribute to the breathtaking beauty of Palladio’s structure.

Here are some glimpses through the archways into a masterpiece of perspective.

A dramatic perspective of the stage set at the Teatro Olimpico, with vivid lighting and intricate sculptures. An unforgettable cultural experience near Padua.
A detailed stage set in the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza, featuring classical architectural elements. A must-see attraction near Padua for theater and history fans.

Even if theater history isn’t your thing, a visit to the Teatre Olimpico is a must.

After visiting the theater, I spent a few hours wandering around Vicenza, which I found to be a charming northern Italian town that’s worth an afternoon of your time.

Day Trip to Venice

Venice is only about 30 minutes by train from Padua and so it seemed foolish to take a day trip there. As mentioned, I’ve visited Venice several times, but Venice never disappoints.

The minute I stepped off the train and walked to the edge of the Grand Canal, Venice again worked its magic on me.

A serene canal in Venice with gondolas and colorful buildings, showcasing the city's tranquil side. An easy excursion from Padua for a romantic or relaxing outing.
Views such as this of quiet side canals never get old in beautiful Venice

I spent the day–a gloriously sunny one–walking and walking and walking.

I decided not to take a trip on the vaporetto, opting instead to stroll through the Carneggio district to Piazza San Marco, then crossing the Grand Canal on the Accademia Bridge and walking back through the labyrinthine and over peaceful side canals streets to the train station.

Author Carol Cram and artist Gregg Simpson standing in Saint Mark’s Square in Venice, surrounded by iconic Venetian landmarks. A perfect day trip from Padua to experience Venice's charm.
Carol and Gregg in St. Mark’s Square on a sunny day in November

Visit to Saint Mark’s Basilica in Venice

Even in November, Venice was crowded, but a lot less crowded than I’ve seen it at warmer times of the year. For the first time ever, the line-up to get into Saint Mark’s Basilica was short enough to be worth the wait, so finally I got to see inside.

Wow!

The interior of Saint Mark’s Basilica is one giant glitterfest with sparkling golden mosaics covering every available surface. You’ll get a sore neck looking up, but it’s worth it.

I took it all in with awestruck wonder before returning to the Piazzo San Marco to spend an hour or so sitting in the sun and watching the world go by.

The golden interior of Saint Mark’s Basilica in Venice, adorned with ornate mosaics and sculptures. A short trip from Padua, this is an iconic destination for art and history lovers.
Mosaics cover every available surface in Venice’s Saint Mark’s Basilica

An Exhibition, a Cathedral, and a Quiet Canal

During our week in Padua, I also attended the opening of Gregg’s exhibition at the Queen Art Gallery, had a quick look inside the impressive cathedral (the Basilica di Sant’Antonio), and enjoyed many walks alongside peaceful canals slumbering in the autumn sunshine.

While Padua has several worthy tourist sites, it’s not a particularly touristy town. The vast majority of people out on the streets are locals, and many are students from the university which gives the town a youthful, vibrant feel.

It’s an easy town to walk around with plenty to look at along the way.

A lively art opening near Padua, featuring artist Gregg Simpson, guests, and vibrant modern paintings in the background. A cultural highlight for art enthusiasts visiting the area.
Gregg Simpson at the opening of his exhibition in Padua
The Basilica of Saint Anthony in Padua, showcasing its majestic domes and intricate architecture under a clear blue sky. A top attraction for those discovering Padua's rich heritage.
The Cathedral in Padua

Home Away From Home in Padua

Gregg and I stayed in a two-bedroom apartment not far from the train station in Padua. While the neighborhood was, admittedly, a bit nondescript, it included plenty of food shops, fast-food joints, and restaurants, and was within walking distance of the train station and the center of Padua.

Here’s a shot of a typical canal side scene that I passed pass on my way from the apartment into Padua’s historic center.

A peaceful canal in Padua lined with colorful historic buildings and lush greenery, perfect for a scenic walk or boat ride. A must-see spot while exploring Padua.

I chose the apartment for its location near the edge of Padua because we were driving and did not want to try navigating the medieval streets of old Padua. The apartment came with a parking place, which turned out to be accessible via a car elevator.

Here’s a shot of us retrieving our car at the end of our eight-night stay.

A parking area near Padua with travel luggage and a vehicle by a gated space, representing travel readiness. A reminder for those exploring what to see and do around Padua.

I highly recommend this apartment if you’re looking for comfortable accommodations that won’t break your budget.

The map below shows many other options for hotels and apartments in Padua.



Booking.com

Tours and Tickets in Padua

Here are some options for tours and tickets in Padua from Tiqets.com

Conclusion

Have you visited Padua? What sites do you recommend? Let other Artsy Travelers know your thoughts in the comments below.