Have your ever wanted to learn the secrets of Greek cooking? If so, then consider adding a cooking class to your Greek travel itinerary.
When you travel in Greece, you’ll find out very quickly that Greek food is drop-dead amazing and consistently tastier than any food I’ve eaten anywhere.
Sure, I’ve had great meals in France, Italy, Spain, and even North America, but Greece wins hands down when it comes to consistency, taste, and freshness.
To learn why Greek food is so great–and more importantly, how to prepare it myself, my daughter Julia and I decide take a cooking class at Savor Nafplio Cooking while staying in lovely little Nafplio.
In the three-hour class, we learn how to prepare Greek dishes and then enjoy a five-course meal complete with wine pairings.
Arrival at Savor Nafplio Cooking Class
We arrive at 5 pm to discover that we are the only two participants. Chef Kostas is a wonderful host and teacher. He keeps us enthralled and engaged throughout the class.
I’ve taken several cooking classes while traveling in Europe, and the class at Savor Nafplio Cooking ranks as one of the best.
Chef Kostas starts the evening by sharing the menu and telling us what to expect. We then dive right into work.
Main Course: Lamb Bogana
The main course of the four-course meal is lamb and potatoes. Since both must cook for at least two hours, we start by preparing the lamb followed by the potatoes. Kostas shows me how to cut slits in the lamb and insert small slivers of garlic, along with sprinklings of salt and pepper. Meanwhile, Julia is put to work making the paste to rub over the lamb.
I also peel potatoes to layer under the lamb. While we work, Kostas provides us with a wealth of useful tips and information about what we are doing—and why.
Appetizer: Beef-Stuffed Zucchini
Once the lamb and potatoes are in the oven, we set to work making the beef-stuffed zucchini. Julia and I learn how to core a zucchini (harder than it looks!), and then we prepare the meat filling. We mix fesh herbs, an egg, plenty of olive oil, and green onions with ground beef and then stuff the mixture into the hollowed-out zucchinis.
Kostas nestles three stuffed zucchinis into a pan half-filled with water. Later, we’ll smother them in a delectable egg and lemon sauce.
Tomato Salad with Cucumber Soup
Kostas teaches us how to prepare cucumbers for pureeing into a refreshing green soup. He uses small cucumbers which he says are less bitter. To ensure the soup is a pleasing color of green, but not too bitter, he instructs me to peel the cucumber in stripes. Cool tip.
Later, he serves the cucumber soup under a mound of cut up Greek salad fixings–tomatoes, onions, olives, capers and some crunchy bread bits all topped with fresh feta cheese. Delicious!
Orange Pie
Traditional Greek orange pie is what I’d call cake—a light, orange-flavored sponge soaked in an orange syrup. Kostas demonstrates how to prepare and measure the many ingredients required for the pie.
One of my jobs is to cut a roll of filo pastry into thin ribbons and then mix them with eggs and fresh orange juice. The filo is a substitute for flour. Its texture will give the pie a lighter texture than it would if made with flour. Interesting idea!
Dining at Savor Nafplio
With all the food prepared, the dining and wine tasting begins. Kostas brings out a small loaf of warm sourdough bread for us to dip in local olive oil flavored with local sea salt. The bread is so good that I eat too much of it and then later have trouble finishing all my dinner.
Kostas pairs five wines with the various courses—from a light white to an after-dinner dessert wine. Kostas explains each wine—its origins in Greece and what to expect while tasting. I thoroughly enjoy tasting the wine and sampling the dinner courses.
Here are pictures of the meal we enjoyed at Savor Nafplio Cooking.
One of the five local white wines we sampled Lamb Bogana with potatoes for the main courseOrange pie with Kaimaki ice cream for dessertTomato Salad with Cucumber SoupAppetizer of stuffed zucchini with lemon egg sauce
Booking a Class at Savor Nafplio Cooking
Kostas varies the menu depending on the preferences of the guests. We’d specified no fish or shellfish so they weren’t on the menu. He also looks at what’s fresh in the local market and consults his own mood. The menu we enjoyed may not be the menu a guest would enjoy on another night. I am, however, confident that whatever the menu, the cooking experience will be first-rate.
Carol Cram with Chef Kostas at Savor Nafplio Cooking Class
If you’re visiting Nafplio, I recommend finding three hours in your schedule to take a cooking class and enjoy a meal and wine pairings at Savor Nafplio Cooking. You get excellent value for the money and learn new cooking tips.
Cooking Classes in Greece
Here are some GetYourGuide cooking classes available in Greece:
Have you taken a cooking class while traveling? Share your recommendations in the Comments below. Here are more posts about cooking classes I’ve taken when traveling.
Are you planning a trip to Naxos and you’re not sure what to do?
Spending two or three days on the beautiful Greek island of Naxos gives you a taste of this lovely island and definitely leaves you wanting more!
I visited Naxos after spending four days on uber-touristy Santorini, and it was a relaxing revelation. Naxos feels like a Greek island where Greek people actually live.
Plenty of visitors bask on the beaches and eat in the many harborside restaurants, but the place doesn’t feel inundated. Part of the appeal of Naxos is that cruise ships do not come here. Let’s hope that doesn’t change!
During the evening, stroll along the waterfront and through the labyrinthine lanes of the old town (called, fittingly, the labyrinth), mingle with the locals, and watch the children play in the largely car-free streets. Everyone seems to be in a good mood.
And why not? The air on a September evening is warm but not stifling, the sunset over the Aegean is magnificent, the food well prepared (and cheaper than Santorini), and the general atmosphere easy going.
In this 3-night and 2 full-day Naxos itinerary, I cover what you need to know about planning a short trip to Naxos: including where to stay, how to get around, and what to do.
I suggest you spent one day relaxing on one of the many gorgeous beaches in Naxos and one day touring the island, either on an organized tour or on your own in a rental car.
Map of Naxos: Locations Visited
Naxos is the largest island in the Cyclades and a popular destination. The map of Naxos below shows the locations I visited.
I stayed at Giorgios Beach (#1), a short walk from the main town of Chora (#2) and the ferry dock. Click a number to read more about each location.
Since Naxos is an island, you have only two choices for how you get there (unless you have your own boat or are a very strong swimmer).
While most people take the ferry from Athens or another island, you can also fly to Naxos.
If you’re island hopping, you’ll probably take the ferry. On my trip to the Greek islands, I flew from London to Santorini and then took the ferry from there to Naxos and then from Naxos to Athens.
Following is my experience of the ferry trip to Naxos.
My Experience: Leaving Santorini
We bid farewell to Aethrio Sunset Village and take a taxi to the ferry port. Unlike the old port that services the cruise ships, the ferry port is accessible by car and bus down a very steep series of switchbacks.
When our ferry arrives, we join the throngs of suitcase-toting visitors for the mad dash up the gangplank and into the cavernous hold.
The loading and unloading of a Greek ferry is the very definition of organized chaos.
The ferry workers blow whistles and gesture for us to form two orderly lines (fat chance). It doesn’t seem possible that all the people waiting with us on the dock will fit on the boat. But within a surprisingly short time, we’re all aboard.
Before we’ve even found the place to stash our luggage, the gangplank comes up and the voyage is underway.
It’s a windy day and the ferry is rocking, but we manage to locate the luggage area marked “Naxos” and leave our luggage before mounting the stairs to the passenger lounge.
We used Ferry Hopper to book our two ferry trips in the Greek Islands—Santorini to Naxos and Naxos to Athens. The online ticketing went smoothly, and the app was easy to use. When we boarded the ferry, we showed the tickets on the app to the attendant who scanned them and waved us through.
Traveling to Naxos
To get to Naxos from Santorini takes about 90 minutes. My daughter Julia knocks herself out with a piece of Gravol gum and I settle in to write while occasionally glancing out at the white-capped sea.
The ferry docks briefly at the island of Ios and then Naxos is next. As soon as we hear the island announced, we leap out of our seats and clatter down the stairs to the hold.
At Ios, I saw how little time is allowed for loading and unloading and I’m terrified of being left behind!
Arrival on Naxos – Stay at Kalergis Studios
We are among the first visitors off the ferry, where we find the taxi rank and are soon on our way to Kalergis Studios on Plaka Giorgios.
For our three night stay in Naxos, the small studio is perfect. It contains two beds, a tiny kitchen, a bathroom, and a balcony overlooking one of the most famous beaches in Naxos.
The reasonably-priced place (three nights cost the same as one night in Oia!) is located right on the beach and just a ten-minute stroll to Chora.
View from our suite in Kalergis Studios
Our first order of business is to enjoy a late lunch at Yannis, the beachside café adjacent to Kalergis Studios that also manages a fleet of sunbeds. The portions are enormous!
Here is the most massive hamburger Julia has ever eaten and my traditional Greek Dakos salad., a delectable combination of super fresh tomatoes, olives, onions, feta cheese and crunchy dried bread. It’s also so large that I enjoy the rest of it for lunch the next day.
Although groaningly full after our lunches, we have to jump into the Aegean Sea. Apart from our bobbing swim in the hot springs cove on the boat trip on Santorini, we’ve not yet swum from a proper Greek beach.
Agios Georgios Beach (#1 on the map above) is sandy, and the water is just the right temperature to be refreshing. It’s also very shallow, requiring a long wade out before the water’s deep enough to dive into.
We bob happily for a while before returning to our room and getting ready to check out the Naxos sunset.
Sunset on Naxos
Sunsets really are a thing in Greece! On Naxos, the most popular place from which to watch the sunset is the Portera (#2) near the old town.
Also known as the Temple of Apollo, the Portera is a huge marble gate and all that remains of the temple of Apollo that was built, but never finished, in 530 BC.
We stroll toward the Portera, but my knee is aching, so I opt to sit on a bench overlooking the boats bobbing in the harbor while Julia runs on ahead to catch the sunset from the Portera.
Here are two of her amazing shots.
The Naxos sunset just keeps on giving. Long after the sun sets, the sky continues to change in one of the most dramatic displays I’ve seen in a while.
After finally tearing our eyes from the sky, we settle on dinner at one of the many places lining the harbor in Chora, the main town on the island.
The Greek food is hearty and tasty, and the ambiance can’t be beat.
Day 1 on Naxos – Relax!
On our first of two full days in Naxos, we decide to enjoy a beach day—our only one of the entire 16-day visit to Greece.
If you have the time and you love beaches, stay longer in Naxos and explore some of its many gorgeous beaches. See the map at the end of this post with suggested options.
After breakfast, we walk only about ten feet from the café below our window to our sun loungers for the day. At a cost of 25 euros, the loungers are a bargain compared to what I’ve paid in France.
And with a breakfast like this to start the day, how can we go wrong?
We seriously do nothing for the entire day. The air is breezy and warm, the sun hot but not unbearable, the view of the sparkling blue Aegean sea restful, and the occasional swim restorative.
It’s the perfect way to relax!
And then before we know it, the sun is starting to set again and it’s time to think about an evening walk and dinner.
Schedule at least one down day during your trip. Even the most avid sightseer needs time to recharge and restore. And what better place to do it than on a balmy beach in Naxos!
Exploring Chora
Thoroughly sun-warmed and relaxed, we follow the sunset back to Chora and stroll up to the top of the town to see the view.
The town’s narrow lanes, colorful door frames and prowling cats charm at every turn. We are virtually alone as we wander around, occasionally checking out a souvenir store or snapping a picture of one of the cats.
Cycladic Village Architecture
We learn later when we go to Athens that the tight architecture of the villages in the Cyclades Islands owes a lot to pirates. Over the millennia, pirates (the so-called Sea People) have been a constant thorn in the side of peaceful occupants of islands such as Naxos.
To protect themselves, people built their villages with houses very close together and clustered around narrow, serpentine lanes that wind around and through the villages with seemingly no logic. If a pirate manages to get to such a village, they can be more easily repelled.
At least that’s what our tour guide in Athens tells us a few days later and who am I to contradict?
The result of all this pirate repelling are villages that to our modern eyes are irresistibly charming and achingly picturesque. Every turn brings into focus another angle for another photo.
Cobbled lanes and slippery steps lead up, up, up to the Venetian castle of Naxos between houses so close they can be touched with outstretched hands.
Cats in Chora
And everywhere there are cats—lounging across the tops of thick walls, tails swishing lazily in the heat, stalking around corners, skittering across the cobblestones. At one corner in Naxos’s old town of Chora, we count eleven cats in various attitudes of total relaxation.
Cats are a thing in Greece, we are discovering. They are everywhere! Most look sleek and well fed, although I think they are feral.
Their presence is a constant source of pleasure for photo-snapping tourists, us included.
Dinner in Chora
After our wandering and picture-snapping, we go in search of a well-reviewed restaurant in the labyrinth.
Google’s restaurant reviews have not failed us yet. With its 4.8 rating, Restaurant Doukato looks like a good bet—and it is.
After being seated under a huge tree in an airy courtyard, we order chicken souvlaki for two. While we wait, we watch in awe as the black-clad waiters literally run from table to table.
Julia at Restaurant Doukato
I’ve never seen servers work so hard! One young man actually sprints, while holding aloft plates of food. When our souvlaki comes, he plunks it down and rushes off, only to return seconds later to offer to help us de-skewer the chicken.
A lot of chicken souvlaki at Restaurant Doukato
The meal is plentiful and tasty. We take home what we can’t eat (the portions are HUGE in Greece) and enjoy it for dinner the next night after our tour of Naxos.
Day 2 on Naxos – Tour the Island
On our second of two full days on Naxos, we’ve booked an all-day tour that will take us inland to exlore some of the villages of Naxos.
If you don’t have a rental car, then I highly recommend taking a tour, preferably a small group one or even a private tour. But if your budget is limited or you can’t find a suitable tour, taking a big bus tour at least gives you a taste of this spectacular island.
We end up on a big bus tour, which is not our preference, but we couldn’t find a small group tour on the day we are in Naxos.
The plus is that the price is startlingly reasonable—just 30 Euros each for an eight-hour guided tour that takes us all over this big island. Here are a few tours to consider.
Starting on the Tour
As two of the last people to be picked up, we settle into our seats in the second to last row and prepare to enjoy ourselves. Unfortunately, my ability to hear the guide’s commentary (and I do love a good commentary) is marred by the incessant chattering of the two women behind me.
I don’t want to be that person by asking them to be quiet, but all my attempts at subtle body language cues such as glancing back, cupping my hand around my ear, leaning forward and so on fail to produce the desired quietude.
And since they are speaking French, I can’t even eavesdrop.
Other than putting up with their rudeness (and to add insult to injury, they are fellow Canadians!), the tour is an admittedly efficient way to see the highlights of Naxos with minimal effort.
What to See on Naxos
On our 8-hour bus tour, we explore several villages on the island along with other must-see sites. If you have your own wheels, you can see these sites over more than one day and take your time.
But I found that a bus tour, while “touristy” was worthwhile, and gave me a good overview of the island’s fascinating history dating back millenia. Here are the places we visited, with details about each following:
Demeter’s Temple
Damalas
Chalki
Apiranthos
Apollonas
Colossus of Dionysius
Demeter’s Temple
We leave the town of Chora and head up into the hills. Right away, we see that Naxos is very different from Santorini.
As the largest of the Cyclades Islands, Naxos’s ecosystem is very different from desert-like Santorini. Although dry, the landscape is much more verdant with plenty of greenery and high mountains framing views of the ever-blue Aegean.
There is a great deal of agriculture here, including olive oil production, which explains the delectable freshness of the food. We’re told that Naxos grows most of the food consumed on the island.
It’s no wonder the tomatoes taste like they’ve just been twisted from the vine because they probably have.
Our first stop is the temple of Demeter (#3) which we’re told dates from 530 BC. Over the centuries, the temple suffered attacks and repurposing, including the building of a small Christian basilica in its center.
As is the case throughout Greece, the marble and other materials from ancient temples were frequently used to build Christian churches. I learn that the impressive looking ruins were rebuilt in 1977.
Temple of Demeter in Naxos
The Temple of Demeter doesn’t take long to explore and includes a small museum that we pop into.
If you go, try timing your visit for first thing in the morning or later in the afternoon when the tour buses are all gone. You’ll have the evocative ruins all to yourself.
Pottery Workshop in Damalas
We stop in the village of Damalas (#4) to watch a pottery demonstration. The potter throws a pot with impressive speed and accuracy.
I’ve dabbled in pottery a bit and recognize expertise when I see it. His pot comes out perfectly.
Pottery demonstration in the village of Damalas on Naxos
The small store adjacent to the workshop sells an impressive array of plates, jugs, platters, and figurines. I purchase a bowl and resolve that it will be my one pottery purchase of the trip.
I have a soft spot for buying pottery while traveling, but I have only a carry-on this trip and must make hard choices.
Chalki
The tour progresses at a brisk rate with frequent stops, the next being the charming village of Chalki (#5) where we have forty minutes to wander the picturesque alleys and sample olive oil and citron liqueur.
I buy a can of olive oil and a small bottle of the liqueur because, well, why not?
The town also contains an ancient Byzantine church called Panagia Drosiani that dates from the 4th to 6th centuries AD. We tale a quick look inside; the frescoes are impressive.
Apiranthos
The village of Apiranthos (#6) is billed as the most famous village in Naxos because of its marble cobbled streets (slippery when wet), narrow lanes, and panoramic views.
It is definitely charming, and we enjoy a stroll around.
A strip of cafés cater to the tour bus people, but we do our best to escape and walk up into the village in the short time allocated.
Alleyway in the village of Apiranthos
Apollonas
Between Apiranthos and the seaside village of Apollonas (#7) lies some seriously twisty-wisty mountain roads. Our driver takes us around sharp curves and up steep slopes that would be challenging to negotiate in a small car, never mind a bus the size of a whale on wheels.
I’m very, very glad I decided not to rent a car on Naxos. If you really don’t like tours, then a car is your only option, but make sure you have nerves of steel!
The views are stunning in this remote area of the island. Our guide tells us about some of the tiny villages we lumber through. Historically, life was very harsh and populations are decreasing.
Finally, we reach the seaside and our final major stop of the day.
It’s almost 3 pm and well past time for lunch. The village of Apollonas clusters alongside a white sand beach. Several inviting cafés await the influx of the tour buses.
We find a table right at the edge of the water and order the best lunch of our entire trip (which is saying something).
View from our lunch spot in Apollonas
Tzatziki is one of our favorite Greek dips and we eat it several times, but nothing tops the flavor, texture, and garlic content of the tzatziki at the little café in Apollonas.
We devour it along with a massive Greek salad and an order of saganaki (Greek fried cheese).
Kourus Statue – AKA the Colossus of Dionysius
Our last short stop is to admire a prone, large, and unfinished marble statue that is over 10 meters in height, weighs 80 tonnes, and dates to the 8th century BC.
Because the statue wears a long cloak and has long hair and a beard, most researchers think it depicts Dionysius, but some disagree and favor Apollo. I don’t suppose they’ll ever know for sure.
Verdict on the Big Bus Tour
Taking the bus tour did at least allow us to see a lot of Naxos. If it’s your only option, then definitely take a big bus tour rather than miss out on seeing the stunning Naxos countryside.
But if possible, opt for a small group tour or a private tour. Yes, you’ll pay more, but you’ll also avoid long waits getting on and off the bus and chatty people who talk over the commentary.
You’ll also likely go on smaller roads that the big buses can’t access, and you won’t feel quite so much like a tourist!
Last Night in Chora
We arrive back in Chora (AKA Naxos town) around 5 pm and return to Kalergis Suites for one last swim in the Aegean before the sun sets.
For dinner, we eat leftovers from our souvlaki dinner the night before. It tastes even better the second night—and the price can’t be beat!
In the evening, we stroll the fifteen minutes back to Chora to poke through the many souvenir stores and enjoy the relaxed ambience, very different from bustling Santorini.
I will definitely return to Naxos for a longer stay.
Leaving Naxos
Bright and early, we bid farewell to Kalergis Suites and take a taxi back to the port. More or less on time, the ferry churns in.
Along with 500 of our new friends, we surge up the gangway and stash our luggage. Before we’re halfway up the stairs to the passenger lounge, the ferry is pulling away from the port and we’re off.
The Joys of Upgrading
We find and settle into two very tight seats with no view and no leg room in tourist class. The voyage takes almost four hours, and Julia decides to check on upgrading to business class.
Off she goes to inquire, returning ten minutes later with upgraded tickets (25 euros each). We mount the interior staircase to business class where we discover that the extra cost is well worth the increased comfort of much wider seats and a view of the passing sea.
I’m all for saving money, but more and more, I opt for comfort over budget whenever I can.
With more room, I’m able to work on my computer when I’m not enjoying the view.
Practical Information for Your Naxos Itinerary
First off, do I think 2 days on the island of Naxos is enough? No, I can’t say that I do, but if it’s all you have, you can still get a good feel for this lovely island.
I think a trip to Naxos–the biggest island in the Cyclades–belongs in any Greek island-hopping itinerary that includes the Cyclades.
To save time, you can fly to Naxos from Athens and then from there do some Greek island hopping, perhaps to nearby Paros which is much smaller and with fewer visitors.
Paros is so close that you can home base on Naxos and do a quick day trip to Paros.
Should Your Rent a Car on Naxos?
You can rent a car on Naxos, but the roads in the interior are very narrow and steep. Unless you’re staying on the island for at least a week and need a car to get from your accommodation to stores and restaurants, I wouldn’t bother.
You can see the island on a day tour like we did, and then stay near Chora so you can easily walk to where the action is.
Best Beaches in Naxos
If you don’t have a car, the best beach for you is the one closest to your accommodation. We stayed on Agios Georgios Beach (#1), and I can recommend it for its sandy beach and warm water. The water is also very shallow and so a good choice for travelers with families.
Here are some other options, all located on the west coast of Naxos as shown on the map:
Agios Prokopios Beach (#2) is considered one of the most beautiful beaches on Naxos with its long stretch of golden sand. You’ll find lots of amenities including sun beds to rent and tavernas to drink in.
Plaka Beach (#3) is known as a windsurfer’s dream and is backed by beautiful cedar trees that provide welcome shade on super hot days.
Alyko Beach (#4) is very picturesque with its sand dunes and rocky cliffs, and is a bit more secluded.
Mikri Vigla Beach (#5) boasts dramatic rock formations and is very secluded; a good choice if you’re looking for a unique landscape.
Kastraki Beach (#6) is known for its calm water which makes it a good choice for families. You’ll find several beachside tavernas with stunning views.
Pyragki Beach (#7) is another secluded cove with dramatic rock formations and good snorkeling.
Our trip to Greece included only two islands—Santorini and Naxos. I wish we’d had time to visit more, but as first-time visitors, we chose the best-for-us Greek island combo.
Santorini has the stupendous views, and Naxos has the laid-back atmosphere and rugged interior.
We stayed four nights on Santorini and three nights on Naxos, which worked well. Although I prefer Naxos for its relaxed Greek vibe, I’d still recommend giving Santorini a bit more time because there is a great deal to see.
Also, the longer you have to enjoy the views of the caldera on Santorini at many different times of day, from sunset to sunrise, the better.
But on my next trip to Greece, I’ll stay a full week on Naxos or another less-visited island and skip Santorini.
Have you visited Naxos? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.
Staying in Oia is a must-do for the Santorini-bound traveler.
The gorgeous little whitewashed town is one of several that frosts the tops of Santorini’s striated brown and ochre cliffs like plaster beads on a string.
Above is a blue sky occasionally studded with drifting clouds. Below is the deep, deep blue sea. Oia is so breathtakingly beautiful that it doesn’t seem real.
Each time I look out at the view of the caldera, I repeat the phrase the wine-dark seas of Odysseus that I remember reading many decades ago when I studied Homer. And yes, although the sea is blue, “wine-dark” perfectly describes it.
Perhaps because I know the role Greece has played in forming Western civilization or maybe because the Aegean sea really is different, I sense a richness and a depth to the water that is unmatched by any other body of water I’ve seen.
I can easily imagine Greek triremes sailing across sea, the soldiers’ helmets shining in the strong sunlight, spears at the ready.
People have lived on beautiful Santorini forever—or so our guide tells us during our tour of the island on our second day. And indeed, evidence of human habitation goes way, way back—even to the lost city of Atlantis.
Was Santorini Atlantis? No one knows! But an attraction—to style it a museum is a stretch—called The Lost Atlantis Experience is built around the notion that Santorini and Atlantis are one and the same. More on the Atlantis myth later!
In this post, I chronicle the four nights and three full days I spent on Santorini with my daughter, Julia (read more about Julia and her adventures as a crochet artist here).
Santorini is the first stop on our 13-day whirlwind trip through Greece that includes a week in the Cyclades (Santorini and Naxos) and 8 days exploring the Greek mainland, including Nafplio, Athens, and Meteora.
Map of Santorini: Locations Visited
The map of Santorini below shows the locations I visited. I stayed in the town of Oia (#1), which is at the northern tip of the island about 40 minutes drive from Fira and from the airport.
An easy four-hour flight takes us from London Gatwick to Santorini. Our bags are already on the carousel by the time we deplane and go through customs (a very fast process).
We emerge into the arrivals hall to find a driver holding up my name. Private transfers don’t come cheap, but I have to say they are well worth the money.
Twenty-five minutes later, our driver pulls up to the outskirts of little Oia, located on the far northern tip of the arc of Santorini Island.
The main city, Fira, is in the middle, and at the other end is Akrotiri, site of an ancient Minoan city.
Checking In to the Aethrio Sunset Village
Our hotel is the Aethrio Sunset Village, chosen for its location in the center of the network of tiny, cobbled laneways in the heart of Oia and its relatively reasonable (for Santorini) price.
We quickly discovered when looking for accommodations that Santorini is not cheap, at least not if you want to stay in a walkable location, which I recommend you do.
The Aethrio Sunset Village turns out to be an excellent choice. Our air-conditioned little suite includes a small kitchen, a living room and a bedroom, along with a small private courtyard.
It’s the perfect refuge after exploring Oia and the rest of the island in the September heat.
Pool at the Aethrio Sunset Village in Oia
First Exploration of Oia
After getting settled, I go exploring. Julia is not feeling well, so my first stop is the pharmacy.
On the way, I pass shop after shop selling a plethora of intriguing looking souvenirs. I mostly resist, in the hope of finding similar offerings when we go to Athens. I’ve read that the same souvenirs are cheaper in the Athens markets than on the expensive islands of Santorini and Mykonos.
Later, I buy a pendant that the shopkeeper assures me is made by a jeweler on the island and is not found in any other shop.
So far as I can tell after much perusing of the shops, he’s telling the truth. I never see a similar one, whereas several of the designs are ubiquitous.
Crowds in Oia
Oia can be crowded, especially when a lot of cruise ships are anchored out in the caldera, and it is certainly touristy.
Every shop and café caters to visitors; the only locals are those who work in them.
In some ways, the village feels like Oia Land, a sub-land of Santorini Land, but that’s only on the surface.
I’d hate to make the trip to Santorini only for a day because it deserves more time. If at all possible, stay in Santorini for at least three nights.
I’m in Oia!
Our First Dinner in Oia
The hotel makes us a reservation for a sunset view table at Kyprida Restaurant so we can watch the sun dip into the Aegean Sea in comfort.
It’s the perfect choice. We enjoy our first Greek meal—chicken souvlaki for Julia and prawns and salad for me.
While we eat, we witness the famous Santorini sunset, which turns out to be one of the most breathtaking sunsets I’ve ever seen—and I live on an island in a house that faces west!
First Full Day in Oia
On our first full day, we decide to lie low. Julia is suffering from jet lag and possibly a cold. At Aethrio Sunset Village, we enjoy our first Greek breakfast of yogurt, honey, and fresh bread (divine).
We then spend the morning doing very little. We’ve booked a boat trip for the afternoon but are able to postpone it until Friday.
Relaxing by the Pool in Oia
For most of the day, we alternate between hanging by the pool and walking around the tiny streets of Oia, snapping endless pictures and checking out the shops.
Yes, it’s touristy, but the views! They really are stunning. Pictures can’t do it justice, although I have probably 100 pictures on my phone to prove that I tried.
There is no vehicular traffic within Oia, making it a very restful place to wander around, particularly when the crowds abate.
Dinner Overlooking the Caldera
In the evening, we dine at Flora Restaurant, which overlooks the caldera.
Julia at Flora Restaurant in Oia
The extremely good-looking Greek waiters are efficient and friendly. Here’s my lamb shank, which the waiter assures me is the best in Oia.
I can’t verify that, but it is extremely tasty!
My dinner at Flora Restaurant in Oia
Over the next few days, we are to discover that the service at the restaurants and cafés of Oia is far superior to what we experience in Fira, the capital of Santorini (AKA Thira) and by far the most crowded place on the island.
NOTE: While visitors refer to the island as Santorini, its real name—and the one locals use—is Thira.
Exploring Santorini on a Private Tour
On Day 2, we planned to take a small group tour of the entire island.
After lunch at yet another caldera-view restaurant with excellent service and terrific traditional Greek food, we meet our guide outside the Hungry Donkey café on the road that skirts Oia.
Private Tour
Our small group tour turns out to be a private tour because another couple canceled. Fine by me! We get a private tour for the price of a small group tour.
Our friendly and very knowledgeable guide tells us we can go and do whatever we wish for the next five hours or follow his itinerary or do a combo of the two.
We choose the latter and ask him to take us to a winery to sample some local wines and then to the Lost Atlantis Experience and end with a view of the sunset. He can fill in the remaining time with whatever he thinks we’ll enjoy.
The five-hour tour is a fabulous way to see a great deal of Santorini in comfort. Here’s an option for a private tour around Santorini:
After I snap a few pictures of the artwork, we take a short tour, learn a bit about the production, and finally taste five wines.
All of them are excellent. We’re told that outside of Santorini these wines are prohibitively expensive because so few bottles are produced. Even Gordon Ramsay favors wine from the Art Winery.
I buy a bottle that is packaged for safe transport home in my suitcase. It’s a robust white wine that I’m looking forward to enjoying in the depths of winter in the hope of reviving memories of sun-drenched Santorini.
Highest Point on Santorini
Next is a drive up, up, up to the highest point of the island where a small monastery sells olive oil and other delicacies. Julia buys a bottle, and we admire the stunning views.
Not for the first time since coming to Santorini, I’m glad that I decided not to rent a car. The road to the summit is a series of very steep switchbacks with sheer drops.
With a pro at the wheel, I can relax.
View of Santorini from the highest point
Lost Atlantis Experience
Our guide wants to take us to Red Beach, but we ask to instead to driven to the Lost Atlantis Experience. Big mistake!
I’d thought this would be a Santorini must-see. I am wrong. It’s kind of an Atlantis theme park complete with interactive exhibits featuring Plato discussing Atlantis and an actual theme-park-style ride.
The exterior of the Lost Atlantis Experience
The 9D Experience
Touted as a 9D experience (I didn’t count), the experience consists of being strapped into a seat and given 3D glasses.
The screen comes to life and for about ten excruciating minutes, we’re taken on a virtual roller coaster ride through an ancient civilization that may or may not have been Atlantis, which was then destroyed when the volcano now at the center of the caldera erupted.
Cue many close-up shots of frightened Atlanteans fleeing for their lives, followed by flowing lava and falling rocks punctuated by literal punches in my back from the seat, lots of shaking and shimmying, occasional bursts of water from the seat rests, and the odd blast of cold air that is actually quite welcome.
I don’t taste or smell anything so I’m not sure what is 9D about the experience.
We share our Atlantis experience with a Russian couple who are quite affronted that none of the available languages in the headsets is Russian.
Afterwards, we are ushered through various exhibits by the endearingly earnest staff. There are more staff than visitors during our visit. Hopefully, that’s not always the case since I imagine the ride and exhibits cost a fair bit to maintain.
Should You Go?
The fourteen-euro-per-person charge is steep for what we get. But we gamely watch as many of the screens as we can before finally being released into the gift shop.
I buy an Atlantis mouse pad and Atlantis mug for Gregg who has long been an Atlantis fan. It’s cheesy, but whatever.
I imagine our guide wonders why we want to waste our time and money on the Lost Atlantis Experience, but he is polite enough not to say.
My advice? The Lost Atlantic Experience is not worth a visit unless you’re traveling with children who will probably enjoy the interactive exhibits.
Megalochori
Our guide takes us next to the traditional village of Megalochori, a tranquil place with only a handful of gift shops and some enticing looking restaurants. It feels like a place inhabited by locals.
Our guide (we never did catch his name) takes us into a cave that was inhabited until the 1990s. It’s extremely dank and unpleasant and hard to believe people lived there in modern times.
Of course, now you pay very big euros to stay in a cave in Oia, but I think those caves are quite a bit swankier.
The cave was inhabited until the 1990s
Black Sand Beach
Our guide drives to the south side of the island and along a beautiful stretch of black sand beach. Black sand beaches are found in only a handful of places in the world—Iceland, New Zealand, Hawaii, and Santorini (and now I’ve been to them all!).
Sunset Over Firostefani
Finally, we return to the steep rim of the caldera to wait for the sun to set. Our guide jokes about people flocking to watch something that has happened every day “forever”, but he stands with us, his tanned face a ruddy gold from the sun’s rays.
I ask him if he ever gets tired of the view, and he says never—and he was born and bred on Santorini. He tells us that the island didn’t get electricity until 1971, just a few years before he was born.
Here’s a video I shot as the sun sets over another lovely day on Santorini.
The Road Back to Oia
After watching the sun disappear into the sea, our guide drives us back to Oia along a cliff-hugging road with views out to the Aegean on both sides.
Magical!
Why Take a Tour of Santorini?
In the over fifty years since the advent of electricity, Santorini has developed into a world-class destination. Our guide tells us that he doesn’t even recognize the island anymore.
Although he makes his living taking tourists around the island, he agrees that there are too many visitors and that reducing the number of ships allowed on any one day would be wise.
I’m glad we’ve driven the length and breadth of the island and seen places that are relatively tranquil.
During the tour, we discover that the back side of Santorini facing in the opposite direction from the caldera is beautiful in a bleak kind of way, but lacks the drama of the caldera-facing views.
The vegetation is sparse, the soil extremely dry, and the architecture not as pristine as that in places such as Oia, which really is postcard perfect.
Here’s a video I shot of the caldera that really shows off the deep blue of the sea.
Final Full Day
Our last full day is a busy one. Since we’ve postponed the boat trip to today, we must combine it with our planned trip to Akrotiri at the far end of the island.
As it turns out, we have plenty of time to do and enjoy both and still squeeze in an excellent lunch at a restaurant overlooking the water in super-busy Fira.
Getting to Akrotiri
We intend to take the public bus—a trip that will require 90 minutes and two buses if we get the connections to sync up.
At the bus station in Oia, I spy a taxi and ask him how much to Akrotiri. He tells me 55 euros. Hmm. Seems steep compared to 4 euros each for two bus trips—Oia to Fira and then from Fira to Akrotiri. I dither.
But the bus doesn’t appear to be coming, and our time is limited.
I shrug and accept the taxi driver’s option, and soon we’re sailing across the island all the way from one end to the other. It’s a good 40-minute drive from Oia to the opposite tip of Santorini, and worth the extra 43 euros.
The more I travel, the more value I put on my time. If I’m faced with a choice between spending 90 minutes on crowded busses that may or may not depart on time and taking a comfy 40-minute drive in an air-conditioned taxi, I’m more and more inclined to opt for the taxi.
While getting around Santorini is fairly easy on the bus, I recommend you occasionally consider taking a taxi if by so doing you save time.
Touring Akrotiri Archeological Site
Akrotiri is an impressive archaeological site that, thankfully, is shielded from the glaring Santorini sun by a massive cover.
To fully appreciate the site, a guide is needed—something we didn’t have. As we stroll around the walkways, we occasionally cozy up to a guided tour to eavesdrop.
I learn that the site was occupied for many hundreds of years by Minoans who built sturdy three-story houses, had indoor plumbing, and well laid out streets.
The large city (only a fraction has been excavated so far) was destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 1700 BCE (as in about 3700 hundred years ago).
Akrotiri, while impressive, is not as interesting as other sites I’ve visited, such as Pompeii. To fully appreciate it, we need to visit the Thira Archaeological Museum back in Fira.
Bus to Fira
We leave the site and see a bus marked Fira and so jump on. The two-euro-per-person fare gets us to the town in plenty of time to visit the archaeological museum and have lunch.
I’m relieved that we’ve avoided another expensive taxi ride, much as I enjoyed it.
Thira Archaeological Museum
This little gem of a museum is a must-see for visitors also wishing to visit Akrotiri—or even if not. Of the two, the museum gives a much better idea of the Minoan civilization.
The variety and sophistication of the artifacts, particularly the pottery, is astonishing.
A highlight are the reconstructed frescoes depicting Minoan women, youths, palm trees, and geometric patterns. The techniques used to create the frescoes appear very similar to the techniques used in the Middle Ages.
Checking Out Fira
We have plenty of time to explore Fira before we need to be down in the old harbor to embark on our five-hour boat tour.
Our first impression is that Fira is Oia on steroids–and not in a good way.
Much like Oia, the narrow, cobbled lanes are packed with souvenir stores and restaurants, but there are many, many more stores and a ton more people.
We are visiting on a day when only one large ship is in port. I’d hate to be there when there are five cruise ships as there were on our first day in Santorini when we wisely lay low.
No wonder the people of Santorini are discussing levying a day-use fee to visitors. I doubt even a 20-euro fee would deter visitors, but at least the money would help with maintaining the island’s infrastructure.
Lunch in Fira
Service is slow and indifferent, but the caldera view is stupendous and the food, as always, is fresh and tasty, particularly the very juicy red tomatoes.
Descending to the Old Port
We make our way to the cable car that will whisk us down to the old port.
We ride with two people from Toronto who are returning to their cruise ship. They are surprised that we are not also cruise passengers and impressed we’re traveling around Greece on our own.
Santorini Boat Trip
We are early for our tour, but no matter. We wait in the shade for the boat to arrive—an old wooden two-masted boat that allegedly seats 80 people.
The guide informs us that there are only 40 people on our tour which fills the boat without overcrowding. We find seats at the bow.
Julia suffers from seasickness, so she is nervous, but for most of the trip she manages, although feeling seriously peaked by the end.
Walk on Nea Kameni
Our first stop is the uninhabited island of Nea Kameni, which is an active volcano. I’ve been told that the walk to the top is a leisurely 20-minute stroll.
It is not!
I set off with all good intentions but decide to stop about a third of the way up and wait in the shade while Julia goes on ahead.
But then a very nice couple from Lyon in France asks me why I’m not going any farther. I say I’m tired, but they insist I should try.
Doucement! they say.
Go slowly.
I relent and start off up the next steep slope. At the top, I again try to stop, but they won’t hear of it.
Very kindly, they stay with me all the way to the top. I am happy I persevere. The view at the top is spectacular.
Kostas, our guide, describes what we’re seeing and reminds us that the volcano is still very much active.
It will erupt (not “may” erupt) in about 80 years, if not sooner. Who knows?
The volcano has already blown its top a few times, burying civilizations, including, possibly, Atlantis.
Costas describes the volcano
The walk back down from the volcano is not as taxing as the walk up, but it’s hot and the path is slippery.
The guide exhorts us to look down constantly to avoid nasty accidents, of which he tells us he’s seen a few.
Swimming in the Hot Springs
Back on the boat and feeling proud of myself, I get ready for the next activity—a swim in the ocean. The boat ploughs through choppy seas to the island of Palea Kameni where we anchor.
Passengers who want to swim (me included) descend the ladder into the cool sea. The temperature is about 22 degrees, which is just perfect.
The swim from the boat to the hot springs takes about ten minutes and is heavy going because the sea is choppy.
Julia opts to use a pool noodle, but I strike out on my own. As I swim, the water gets progressively warmer until it’s about 27 degrees and shallow. I’m able to stand up, which I do, and promptly seriously stub my baby toe.
Later, back at the hotel, I discover it is black and bruised. A casualty of traveling.
Stop at Therasia
Next stop after swimming is a quick visit to the island of Therasia where only about 300 people live, their principal occupation being fishing.
We dock at the bottom of a steep cliff with stairs leading up to the village at the top. At the port, there are only a handful of small taverns servicing the boat tours.
I enjoy a Sprite and watch the cats beg for food.
Feral cats freely roam here as they do in Oia and all of Santorini (and Naxos, as we discover later).
They look remarkably healthy and are very friendly, probably because they know they’ll get lots of pats and free food from all the tourists.
Sunset from the Caldera
The finale of the boat trip is a front row seat at sunset. We power over to an area where several other boats are anchored facing the setting sun.
We are each given a glass of bubbly wine and settle down to watch the sun sink slowly in the west, the way it has forever.
Kostas brings out his guitar and serenades us as the light turns golden and the cares of the world seem far away.
Sun begins to set in the CalderaJulia admires the sunset from the boat
The word “magical” is used frequently to describe the Greek island experience, and truly, it is the best word.
Another word is “supernatural”, in all its many senses.
I feel the presence of ancient Minoans who sailed these very seas, of Greeks heading for Troy, of pirates and Crusaders and finally tour boats.
These seas have witnessed millennia of human activity.
These seas have been here forever.
Options for Sailing Tours
I recommend the sunset sailing tour. You can book all-day catamaran tours that include meals, but the waters around Santorini can get rough and if you’re prone to seasickness, I’d recommend going for one of the shorter tours.
You’ll share the experience with more people, but the sunset still looks amazing!
First off, should you visit Santorini? It’s crowded, touristy, and a bit crass.
It’s also amazingly, spectacularly beautiful and one of the principal tourist destinations in Greece.
So yes, I recommend you make a visit to Santorini at least once.
Stay in Oia Rather than Fira
A friend back in Canada told me we had to change our reservation from Fira to Oia, and we are very glad we took her advice.
While Oia requires a bit more effort to reach, it’s well worth it.
Oia really is Santorini’s most gorgeous location, which is saying something because just about every location along the edge of the caldera affords magnificent views.
But Oia also has the blue-domed churches clustered in photogenic spots, is a very walkable town, and boasts friendlier servers (at least in our experience).
Oia also offers a more upscale atmosphere, and is also very popular with honeymooners. Prepare to see a lot of cuddling couples, some dressed in their wedding gear and getting their picture taken at sunrise and/or sunrise.
Hike From Oia to Fira
If you’re feeling energetic (and I confess I was not), you can hike from Oia to Fira, or the other way round.
You’ll pass through the little village of Imerovigli, and enjoy jaw-dropping views along the way. If it’s hot, go very early in the morning.
The 10 km hike takes about 2.5 hours, although that time will probably be much higher since you’ll be stopping every ten feet to snap yet another photo.
Comparing Service between Oia and Fira
We notice a distinct difference in service between Oia and Fira, which must absorb all the cruise ship passengers every day.
In Fira, our food and drinks are pretty much thrown at us and smiles are thin on the ground. On the other hand, the food is tasty.
Although still crowded, Oia is smaller, more intimate, and less frantic than its bigger sister.
There are also plenty of excellent options for eating in Oia, and the goods in the shops are of higher quality with fewer shops devoted exclusively to selling schlock.
I enjoyed a long conversation with a guy in a jewelry shop as he packaged up the pendant I bought. He was in no hurry to rush me out, and was happy to answer my questions about living on Santorini.
In Fira, the shopkeepers just looked kind of tired.
Iconic shot of Oia showing the famous 3 blue domes
Sunsets at Oia
Oia is famous for its sunsets, with people coming from all over the island to jockey for position. It’s a bit off-putting to watch people pushing and shoving, cell phones held aloft.
The best way to see a sunset is to reserve a table at a restaurant that faces the sunset, as we did on our first night.
If you don’t do that, this is what you may see.
View of a sunset from behind the crowds
Another Reason to Stay in Oia
In the evening after the boat trip and dinner, we catch the bus from Fira back to Oia and sit right at the front.
The roller coaster ride in the dark with sheer drops to our right as the bus driver skillfully coaxes his massive bus around numerous switchbacks takes a few years off my life.
But when we arrive at Oia, we see a massive lineup of people waiting to catch the bus back to Fira after watching the sunset in Oia.
There is no way they will all fit on the bus which means many will be waiting an hour for the next bus—and it’s already 10 pm. This bottleneck after sunset is reason enough to make Oia your home base.
Also, staying in Oia means more opportunities to take night shots like this.
Sunrises in Oia
For us, one of the many highlights of staying in Oia instead of staying in Fira is the opportunity to witness the sunrise.
On our last morning, we get up at 6:30 and station ourselves at a viewpoint that during the day and especially at sunset is clogged with tourists. We are virtually alone as we wait for the sun to rise over the blue domes.
The air is still and warm and a slight wind ruffles the cascades of bougainvillea and carries the sounds of twittering birds.
I look past the jumble of whitewashed buildings and the turquoise rectangles of private pools on private terraces of places that cost a small fortune to stay in, and fix my gaze on a view that has enchanted people for millennia.
Conclusion
Stay at least three nights—preferably four or five— in Oia to fully explore the island, and to experience Oia at all times of the day, from the crazy crowds at sunset to the quiet afternoons to the pearly dawns.
While accommodation bargains can be had by staying on the opposite side of Santorini from the caldera, I wouldn’t bother.
Splurge and stay in Oia and then visit another less touristy island for a more Greek experience.
Santorini can be reached by plane or ferry. We arrived by plane and left by ferry to visit the island of Naxos—another highly recommended Greek island.
Have you visited Santorini? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.
Consider taking a Rabbie’s small group tour of Southwest England to discover one of England’s most beautiful (and visited) regions.
When I travel on my own, I often take small group tours so I can efficiently explore local sites. Usually, I opt for day tours (see my posts about tours in the Cotswolds and Yorkshire).
But on a recent, longer trip to the UK, I chose a four-day, three-night small group tour of Devon and Cornwall with Rabbie’s Tours.
Based in Edinburgh, Scotland, Rabbie’s operates dozens of tours throughout the United Kingdom and Europe. Their reviews are excellent and the prices reasonable. I figured I couldn’t lose—and I was right. In this post, I present a day-by-day account of what I experienced on my four-day, three-night Rabbie’s small group tour, starting in Bristol.
Spoiler Alert: I cheerfully recommend a Rabbie’s small group tour, particularly if your time is limited.
Map of Southwest England: Locations Visited
The map of Southwest England below shows the locations I visited. I stayed in Falmouth (#5) for two nights and Exeter (#23) for one night. Click a number to read more about the location.
Setting Off on a Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England
Bright and early at 8:00 am on September 1, I’m out front of the Doubletree Hilton Hotel in Bristol (#22 on the map), where I meet the first two people I’ll be touring with, a couple from Virginia in the US.
They tell me this will be their fourth Rabbie’s small group tour. This bodes well since they have only positive things to say about the tours they’ve taken to Wales and Scotland.
We board and soon stake out our personal space for the next four days. With the entire 16-seat van at our disposal, we each have our own row. It’s delightful to spread out across two seats with another across the aisle rather than having to share the admittedly narrow seats with a stranger for four days.
Matt, our guide and driver
Day 1: Somerset to Cornwall on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England
We pull away from the hotel and head out of Bristol. I settle into my seat and listen to Matt when he’s talking and then think when he’s not.
Notebook open and pen at the ready, I alternate between jotting down notes about what we’re seeing and planning two new novels.
Matt reviews our itinerary for the day. We’ll travel west from Bristol along the north coast of Somerset, across Exmoor in Devon and then angle southwest to Falmouth on the south coast of Cornwall—our home base for two of the three nights.
He uses arrow stickies to show our route on the large map of southern England pinned above the front window.
Map with stickies showing our route on days 3 and 4 of the Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England
Over the next four days, I’ll enjoy studying the map not only to follow our route but also to remember many of the places I visited when I lived in England back in the 1970s.
First Stop on the Rabbie’s Small Group Tour: Dunster in Somerset
Dunster (#1) is the home of the impressive Dunster Castle that we can only admire from afar. Since on Day 1 we must cover 225 miles, with a long stop at Tintagel, we only have time for a quick stop to wander Dunster’s sweet main street and grab a quick coffee.
Charming town of Dunster in Somerset
Lined with gift shops and restaurants, the street is as quaint as one would expect a Somerset village street to be. Most stores are closed since it’s still early, which is just as well. I need to carefully monitor my shopping if only because I’m traveling with a small carry-on and don’t have a spare centimeter for extra stuff.
On the Road to Lynmouth on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour
After Dunster, we travel on from Somerset into Devon. Along the way, we scale the 25% grade road (that’s really steep) that leads up from Porlock on the coast into Exmoor National Park and down the other side to the seaside town of Lynmouth (#2).
The views at the top are probably magnificent, but we need to take Matt’s word for it. The mist has rolled in, and the view is soft and gray with hints of heather and gorse.
It’s still beautiful in an atmospheric kind of way, and we do spot several wild horses.
Misty ExmoorWild Exmoor horses
Lunch in Lynmouth
We stop for an hour in Lynmouth, which is just long enough for me to walk from the car park to the harbor, get a takeout lunch of fish and chips, do a spot of window shopping, and pop into the Memorial Hall that documents two seminal events in Lynmouth’s history.
I eat my ridiculously large serving of fish and chips on the pier overlooking the placid sea. The weather continues to be gray and dull, but the air is warm, and the streets of Lynmouth are still full of holidaymakers.
Lynmouth Harbour
Flood of 1952
After lunch, I check out the Memorial Hall where I learn about the devastating flood of 1952 when over nine inches of rain fell in a very short time, resulting in a landslide that buried half the town and killed 34 people in the wider area, 28 of them in Lynmouth. The excellent exhibit in the Memorial Hall includes several blown-up photographs that show the devastation, a well put together and sobering memorial.
Flood damage in Lynmouth
Rescue of the Forrest Hall
Lynmouth is also famous for a daring rescue undertaken in 1899 by local townspeople. When a ship called the Forrest Hall foundered off Porlock Weir—the town we’d just driven through on our way to Lynmouth—the seas were so rough that local fishermen couldn’t even attempt a rescue.
Rather than allow the people to perish, the intrepid fisherman of Lynmouth hauled a lifeboat called the Louisa up and over the extremely steep road we’d just traversed. The Memorial Hall includes a display of photographs about the rescue and its re-creation on the 100th anniversary in 1999.
On our way out of town, Matt plays us a song written to commemorate the rescue. The jaunty tune gets stuck in my head for hours.
Visit to Tintagel on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour
A lot of driving takes us across Devon and into Cornwall, finally ending at Tintagel (#3), the highlight destination of the day. The main attraction here is Tintagel Castle, a windswept ruin perched atop a craggy island on the rugged Cornish coast.
Was it the home of King Arthur? No. But that doesn’t stop the makers of souvenirs from exploiting Arthur at every turn.
Tourist shops line Tintagel’s main street leading to the long walkway to the castle. It’s colorful and tacky and crowded, although Matt tells us it’s quiet compared to what it’s like on Bank Holiday weekends.
Crossing the Bridge to Tintagel Castle
We start the trek down a very steep hill to the entrance to the castle. The word “castle” is used loosely. Folks expecgting to see a castle at Tintagel Castle (#4) will be disappointed. What you will see is an extremely dramatic setting, a very cool bridge linking the mainland to the island, and a smattering of crumbling stone walls—some quite large, most not.
Come prepared to walk and climb. A visit to Tintagel Castle requires a lot of walking, much of it over quite rough ground and up and down steep steps.
Getting to the island is almost as fun as climbing around it. A new bridge spans the gap between the mainland and the island. An open space of about four inches in the middle of the bridge allows for expansion and contraction during the often-ferocious weather that sweeps in from the Atlantic. The bridge to the ruins is sometimes closed and access cut off.
Tintagel Bridge
Exploring Tintagel Ruins
As I wander around the ruins, I try to imagine what the castle looked like back in the day. I can’t really picture it, but I do feel a sense of kinship with the early inhabitants. The view of the rugged Cornish coastline stretching to the east and west will not have changed. And if Arthur had hung out here, he’d have looked up at the same massive expanse of sky and felt the same fresh wind.
View from Tintagel Island
The large site swarms with people but doesn’t feel crowded. The castle has been rebuilt several times over the centuries because the walls keep crumbling in the elements. Hardly surprising. Bonus points for trying to build in such an inhospitable location, but in the end, nature wins.
I take a LOT of pictures.
Back to Tintagel
After exploring the island, I descend an extremely precipitous set of stairs to the bridge. I have a choice. I can either walk back up a very steep hill, which is the way I came, or I can continue down to a road and catch a Land Rover back up to the car park.
The one-way trip costs ₤2.50—a bargain, particularly because all the up-and-down climbing has inflamed my arthritic knee. To be honest, it’s screaming.
Tintagel Steps
Old Post Office in Tintagel
Back in Tintagel, I discover the fabulous old post office—a National Trust property that draws me like a magnet. The ancient building dates from the 14th century. I gleefully explore the rooms, with their massive wooden beams, uneven floors, and white plaster walls.
I’m a sucker for old houses, particularly one this old. I know it’s been restored and likely doesn’t look like it did back in the day, but my imagination goes into overdrive, nonetheless.
The thick walls and tiny windows would keep in the heat but at the cost of light. It must have been very gloomy, particularly at night with light provided by only a few guttering candles.
Old Post Office in Tintagel
In the beautiful English garden behind the old post office, I chat with one of the National Trust guides about history and my novels. She’s lovely!
The Tintagel Old Post Office is open every day, with visiting hours from 10:30 to 17:30.
Rum in Tintagel
Before boarding the bus, I stop in at a place that sells local gin and rum. The shopkeeper is very accommodating. He describes the impressive range of rum-flavored spirits. I buy a small bottle of cinnamon flavored rum which I take a tipple of later in my room. It’s delicious; I wish I’d bought more!
The Rum and Gin Shop in Tintagel
Dinner in Falmouth
The first and second nights of the tour are spent in the Cornish town of Falmouth (#5) on the south coast. I’ve chosen the Lerryn Hotel—a large guest house overlooking the sea. My room is spacious and comfortable and the breakfast on both mornings is very tasty. I opt for smoked salmon and scrambled eggs on day 1 and porridge with cream and honey on day 2.
After getting settled, I walk down the hill to the harbor in search of a restaurant. I pass the Maritime Museum (#6)—a modern building that looks very intriguing and advertises an exhibition about pirates which, alas, I will miss. On both of our nights in Falmouth, we arrive back long after the museum has closed and leave both mornings before it opens.
Maritime Museum in Falmouth
A General Note About Guided Tours
One drawback of a guided tour is that you’re at the mercy of someone else’s schedule. If the itinerary doesn’t include something you want to see, then you’re out of luck. You must decide if the convenience of a tour is worth the lack of flexibility. Because I’m traveling on my own and don’t want to drive, taking a tour makes sense. Hopefully one day I’ll return and do a driving holiday. There is a LOT to see in this part of the world.
Dinner at The Hub in Falmouth is excellent: a dressed crab salad with lovely fresh bread and salad, and a large glass of Pino Grigio.
After dinner, I meet up with the American couple who are dining close by and walk back to the hotel. They are staying around the corner, and I’m grateful for the company in the darkness.
A note about accommodation on a Rabbie’s tour. You can choose the level of accommodation you want, and they will book appropriate places, or you can book them yourself. I can recommend both The Lerryn in Falmouth and Leonardo Hotel Exeter, which is a cookie-cutter chain hotel, but very comfortable with excellent food.
Day 2: All Day in Cornwall on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England
The next morning dawns soft and mizzly, with the sky and the sea meeting in a single sheet of gray. But the air is fresh and the seagulls loud, and I’m excited to explore this scenic corner of Cornwall. Matt has promised us a full day of sightseeing with short drives.
Visit to Porthleven on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour
Our first stop is the seaside town of Porthleven (#7) which is apparently a mecca for foodies. Matt tells us about a terrible storm many years ago during which the sea surged into the sheltered harbor and swept a police car right off the pier, killing both police officers inside.
I snap a photo of the warning sign that greets us at the start of the pier.
Warning sign on Porthleven Pier
The pier is open and empty in the rain. It’s a spectacular setting even in the gray and the wet.
Looking out to sea in PorthlevenPorthleven Clock Tower
We stop at a coffee roastery to sample some locally roasted coffee. The roastery is a happening place with lots of employees bustling around the facility visible through large windows in the café area.
Minack Theatre on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour
At 11:30, we have a reservation to view Minack Theatre (#8). This place is a revelation. I’d never heard of it and so was delighted to discover a multi-level series of turf-covered benches stretching from the edge of a clif sea up a steep hill.
Minack Theatre is the creation of the indomitable Rowena Cade after she saw an open-air production of A Midsummer Night’s Dream in the 1920s. She offered her cliffside garden for staging performances and almost 100 years later people are still coming to this dramatic setting to enjoy live theater.
Minack Theater
I go into the exhibition center to watch a film about the origins of the theatre and am particularly interested in the interviews with various performers about the challenges of performing in a theater open to the elements—wind, rain, cold, sun.
Occasionally, the weather is so bad that the theatre has to be closed and the performances cancelled.
One of the highlights of the site is the plethora of exotic succulents in all sorts of twisty shapes. I can’t stop snapping pictures!
If I ever travel again to Cornwall—preferably under my own steam—I’ll definitely book tickets for a performance at Minack Theatre. Talk about an Artsy Traveler experience!
Land’s End
A short drive takes us from Minack Theatre to Land’s End (#9). The last time I visited Land’s End was in 1974 when, at age18, I traveled with two friends all around Britain. Somewhere in a box is a picture of the three of us at the Land’s End signpost.
I remember the place as windswept and pretty much empty apart from maybe an ice cream truck.
Land’s End
That’s all changed now. A theme park franchise has taken over the area and made it horrendously commercial. Fortunately, no amount of tackiness can detract from the stunning view of rocks and ocean that awaits you once you’ve threaded the gauntlet of souvenir stores and fast-food joints along with a bunch of weird, out-of-context attractions.
Now, you’ll pay ₤10.99 to have your picture taken next to a signpost on which an attendant affixes letters designating your home town and its distance from Land’s End.
Needless to say, I decline.
Tin Mines of Botallack
This stretch of Cornish coastline is known as the Tin Coast and was home to numerous tin mines, the vestiges of which are still visible. The Tin Coast has been the site of mining for over 2,000 years, with the industry peaking during the Industrial Revolution when the demand for tin was high.
At Botallack (#10), we stop to view the ruins of several mines and walk out to the cliff. The word bleak comes to mind, perhaps because it’s gray and rainy, but more so because I can’t help thinking how horrific life must have been for the miners.
Ruins of a tin mine at Botallack
Many of the mines extend hundreds of meters out to sea and hundreds of meters below the seabed. I shudder to think of how claustrophobic the conditions must have been and how many of the workers died.
St. Ives on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour
The major destination for Day 2 is the seaside town of St. Ives (#11). One of its many claims to fame is its association with several prominent 20th century artists, including Barbara Hepworth.
Tate St. Ives
Matt drops us right in front of the Tate St. Ives. I hadn’t realized there was a Tate here, so imagine my delight! I make it my first stop. The beautiful building houses ten galleries filled mostly with post-war abstract art along with a special exhibition of the very colorful work of Beatriz Milhazes.
I arrive in Gallery 1 in time to hear a short talk by one of the curators about Robert Lanyon, an artist I had never heard of. Unlike most of the artists who flocked to St. Ives throughout the 20th century,
Robert Lanyon was born in St. Ives. He was also a foremost proponent of post-war abstract art. The curator tells us that St. Ives was attractive to artists such as Barbara Hepworth and others because of the beauty of its light and the landscape.
He emphasizes three words: abstraction, light, and landscape.
Commentary on Porthleven by Peter Lanyon
The curator presents a lively commentary of a work called Porthleven by Peter Lanyon. The large, powerful work was Lanyon’s contribution as one of sixty artists chosen to represent Britain at the Festival of Britain in 1951. I’d heard about the Festival at the Museum of English Rural Life a few days earlier. Funny how you can go a lifetime never hearing about something and then suddenly hear about it twice in three days.
The piece is a multi-layered depiction of Porthleven, where we’d visited that morning. The curator’s explanation really brought the painting to life. Apparently, David Bowie was a big collector of Lanyon’s work. He said his work may not be the most beautiful in his collection, but they were the pieces he looked at the most.
Porthleven by Peter Lanyon
Touring the Tate St. Ives
After the short talk, I tour the various galleries and get pleasantly lost in a reverie of art appreciation. Here are three of my favorite pieces.
Waterfall by Arshile GorkyL’Étang de Trivaux by Henri MatisseNives II by Victor Vasarely
Commentary on Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon
I finish my swing through the galleries in time to catch a second talk about Peter Lanyon by the same curator. Thankfully, there is seating for this talk. My knee is tender after yesterday’s hike around Tintagel and I sink gratefully onto a bench to listen.
The curator describes a piece called Lost Mine that depicts a tin mining disaster. Since I’d only just visited the remains of the tin mines at Botallack, viewing the painting felt particularly relevant.
The curator describes what I’d suspected when viewing the tin mines—the dreadful conditions the miners endured to extract tin and copper from under the sea. Some of the shafts went 400 meters into the seabed and then a mile out to sea. When there was a flood—an inundation as it was called—there was no way out. Deaths were alarmingly common in an age when safety standards were unknown.
Lanyon’s visual depiction of a mining disaster is visceral and immediate. The curator’s description of the various elements make sense of the painting and reveal Lanyon’s skill.
Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon
Exploring St. Ives
After touring the Tate, I mosey into the main center of St. Ives, a pleasing warren of narrow streets and alleys. The main street is lined with shops—gifts and food and art. But unlike some of the places I’ve visited so far in Cornwall, most of the shops feature locally made art and gift items rather than imported tat.
At the end of the street, I discover that St. Ives is a peninsula, with the ocean on one side where the Tate is and a beautiful harbor on the other. Surfers ride the waves on the ocean side, and boats bob serenely on the harbor side.
It really is picture perfect. No wonder the place is mobbed. It would be wonderful to come here off-season—rent a house overlooking the water and write. I wouldn’t be the first author to have done so! As a child, Virginia Woolf lived here in Talland House, which is the title of a novel inspired by Woolf by author Maggie Humm. I interviewed Maggie about Talland House and its connection to St. Ives for The Art In Fiction Podcast.
I see signs to Barbara Hepworth’s studio and garden, but I decide I don’t have time for a visit. At least I have even more incentive to return to St. Ives.
Back to Falmouth
After St. Ives, we head back to Falmouth. It’s been a long day and I’m happy to pick up a takeaway dinner to eat in my room. Before darkness falls, I stroll along the sea front to admire the view and listen to the constant cawing of the seagulls. Falmouth seems like a very pleasant town and I’m sorry there’s not more time to explore it.
Day 3: Cornwall to Devon on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England
The sun decides to come out as we leave Falmouth and the Cornish coast and drive inland across the sunlit patchwork of green that is central Cornwall. Huge clouds fill the big sky, and everyone is in good spirits.
Our small group is easy to deal with, which I’m sure is a relief for Matt, and makes for a tranquil tour for me. Everyone returns to the bus on time, and no one has any complaints.
Jamaica Inn on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour
The first stop of the day is the Jamaica Inn (#12), made famous by Daphne du Maurier. When she and a friend were lost in the fog, their horses led them to the inn. As a result, du Maurier wrote her famous novel Jamaica Inn. Several films and a TV series have been filmed here.
I’m looking forward to touring the museum, but, alas, I can’t find it in the warren of rooms all serving food. Basically, Jamaica Inn is a restaurant and gift shop attracting coach tours. I do, however, buy a novel by Daphne du Maurier because I’ve never actually read any of her work.
Traversing Bodmin Moor
In the sunlight, the gorse and heather and cows and towering clouds in a wide sky above Bodmin Moor (#13) captivate my imagination. We’re on our way across the moor to the tiny town of Minions where there is an ancient stone circle. But first, a quick stop to get acquainted with some lovely Cornish hairy cows.
A hairy cow on Bodmin Moor
Matt skillfully drives us along narrow roads with densely packed hedgerows on either side. He tells us that the foliage masks stone walls just waiting to dent passing cars.
We stop in a sylvan dell to view an ancient bridge, called a carriage bridge, that includes outdents to allow vehicles to pass. Matt leads us in a quick game of Pooh Sticks. Mine emerges from under the bridge in third place.
I love this stop! There are no visitors or ice cream trucks in sight; it’s just the six of us in a forest with the smell of vegetation on the brink of decay—the smell of summer ending.
The Minions
We drive on into Dartmoor en route to the tiny town of Minions (#14). Apparently, the town sign is often pinched thanks to the popularity of the Minions movies. Our destination is the Hurler Stones—an ancient stone circle set atop the windy moor.
I do love a good stone circle and this one is impressive.
One of the stones in the Hurlers Stone Circle
The stone circle is named The Hurlers because in olden times, a group of men dared to play hurling on the Sabbath. To punish them, the devil rose from hell and turned them to stone.
The true origins of the stone circles (there are three of them) is not known, but they are definitely very old.
As we walk up to the stones, we need to watch every step to avoid many still-steaming contributions by horses, sheep, and cows.
Lunch Stop in Tavistock on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour
We stop for lunch stop in Tavistock (#15), a pleasant little town. I have just enough time to grab a quick lunch—a chicken, bacon, and leek Cornish pasty (excellent) — and check out the indoor market that mostly features antiques.
The American woman on the tour is into antiquing. I run into her outside and tell her she must go in and take a look. With ten minutes to spare before the bus leaves, she manages to make two purchases—an antique lace doll’s dress and an antique doll also dressed in handmade lace. I’m impressed by her power shopping!
A street in Tavistock
Cream Tea
On our way to Haytor on Dartmoor—one of the day’s highlights—we stop at a café to enjoy a proper Devon cream tea. Although I’m full from my pasty at lunch, I can’t pass up the opportunity to slather jam and clotted cream on a freshly baked scone!
Cream tea
Visit To Haytor on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour
Dartmoor is littered with tors—granite outcroppings that rise above the moor. The most famous, and one of the largest, is Haytor (#16). We are lucky that the weather is glorious for our ascent from the parking lot past grazing wild horses to the base of Haytor.
It is possible to climb to the very top of the grainite tor, but I content myself with enjoying the 360-degree views from the base. It’s pretty dang magnificent.
Here’s a 360-degree video taken from the base of Haytor.
And here are just a few of the many photos I snapped while enjoying Haytor—one of the highlights of the entire Southwest Tour.
Day 4: Devon to Dorset on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England
It’s the final day of our four-day tour of the Southwest. Our mission today is to check out the Dorset coast and then Stonehenge before returning to Bristol.
Lyme Regis on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour
Our first stop is Lyme Regis (#17), known as the pearl of Dorset. Matt drops us at the bottom of the steep main street. I have just an hour and must make a choice. Either I go left to explore the museum or right to walk along the shingled beach to the Cobb, made famous in Jane Austen’s Persuasion. Years ago, I visited the Cobb and so I choose left.
Lyme Regis Museum
The Lyme Regis Museum (#18) is packed full of interesting artifacts and fossils, in keeping with Lyme Regis’s reputation as fossil central. Several displays document the life of the indomitable Mary Anning. Born in 1799, Mary became known internationally for her discoveries of Jurassic marine fossil beds at Lyme Regis. Her findings contributed to changes in scientific thinking about prehistoric life and the history of Earth. Go Mary!
She’s been the subject of novels and films, including Remarkable Creatures by author Tracy Chevalier.
Fossils at the Lyme Regis Museum
Strolling Lyme Regis
After leaving the museum, I stroll a little way along the beach towards the Cobb. Despite the shops and the crowds, the main street leading down to the water still feels ancient. It’s easy to imagine Anne Elliott from Persuasion strolling along the beachfront.
View of Lyme Regis
Hiking Down to Durdle Door on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour
Another hour on the road takes us to Durdle Door (#19) in Dorset. Last night, Matt asked each of us to supply him with the titles of three or four of our favorite songs. During the drive, he plays all our songs. It’s an eclectic mix including some smooth and jazzy Brazilian music, When I’m 64 by The Beatles, a track by Taylor Swift, various country and rock cuts, and my own contributions—Carole King, Simon & Garfunkel, and Rod Stewart.
At Durdle Door, I’m faced with a very steep walk down and back. My poor knee is not happy, but I ignore the pain and set off. Unfortunately, Durdle Door is not visible from the car park so in order to get some photos and enjoy the stunning views, I need to walk.
View of the beach at Durdle DoorView of Durdle DoorCarol at Durdle Door
Lulworth on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour
The little village of Lulworth (#20) is an easy downhill walk from Durdle Door. We drive there, park, and walk down the single street to the cove. There really isn’t a whole lot to do except walk down to the cove, look at the cove, buy lunch, eat it on the beach while looing the cove, walk back from the cove, and then buy a fridge magnet depicting Durdle Door.
View of Lulworth Cove
Stonehenge on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour
Our final stop of the day—and of the four-day tour—is Stonehenge (#21), where we will be five of the one million visitors who check out this massive stone circle every year. I’ve visited Stonehenge a few times over the years and seen quite the evolution.
Back in the 1970s, I was able to walk right up to the stones, touch them and pose on them. Such free access was curtailed in the 1990s because of damage being caused to the stones. When I visited in 2001, I bought my tickets at a pokey kiosk next to the parking lot, walked a fair distance to the stones, walked around the stones, walked back, and that was about it. I don’t even think there was a gift shop.
Well, welcome to 2024! The visitor experience has been transformed into a slickly managed sequence of carefully orchestrated activities. After getting tickets (Matt takes care of this for us), we are fitted with paper bracelets that include a QR Code. I scan the code and download the audio guide, which provides a worthwhile commentary of the Stonehenge Experience.
Shuttling to Stonehenge
I board a shuttle bus for the five-minute ride to the stone circle and begin the circumnavigation to view it from every angle. Although I’ve seen Stonehenge before, I still find it impressive. Who built it? Why? How?
Carol at Stonehenge
I snap plenty of pictures. Even though the site is full of visitors, it doesn’t feel overwhelming, perhaps because the stone circle itself is empty. It’s easy to get atmospheric shots that evoke the ancient past without including other visitors.
Stonehenge
After getting my Stonehenge fix to last me another decade or two, I take the shuttle bus back to the stylish Visitor Centre. The small exhibition is high-tech and interesting and includes re-creations of the types of houses that the people who built Stonehenge may have lived in.
And finally, I enter the giftshop—the largest I’ve seen on this trip, and that’s saying something! It’s remarkable how many Stonehenge-themed items are on display, from sweatshirts to water bottles to socks and a lot, lot more. I resist buying yet another fridge magnet.
Onwards Back to Bristol
We’re back on the bus for the last time. The trip west to Bristol (#22) takes longer than expected thanks to traffic but I don’t mind. I’m enjoying looking out the window and thinking about the past four days.
For me, the highlights of the tour were the opportunities to walk in the countryside at sites such as Tintagel, Haytor, and Durdle Door, and visits to museums like the Tate St. Ives and the Lyme Regis Museum. I could have skipped Lulworth, Land’s End, and Jamaica Inn in favor of more opportunities to be in the countryside. However, a guided tour must make choices and people do need to be fed and have access to toilets.
Conclusion
Thank you to Rabbie’s Tours for a memorable four days. I recommend the tour for travelers who don’t want to drive and want to pack in as many sites as possible in a short period without sacrificing some memorable experiences. Kudos to our guide, Matt, for his patience and good humor.
Have you taken a Rabbie’s Tour? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.
Other Recommended Small Group Tours in England on Artsy Traveler
The Roman Baths in Bath, England, is the city’s foremost must-see attraction.
If you only have time to visit one historic site in the city of Bath, make it the Roman Baths.
It’s small enough to enjoy in about an hour, includes an excellent audio guide, and is enlivened by numerous projections of Roman-clad people going about their bathing business.
I’ve visited the Roman baths three times over the past ten years and each time, I discover something new.
Roman Baths at a Glance
Enjoy views of Bath Abbey from the museum terrace
Discover the ancient history of the sacred spring
Explore fascinating displays and costumed recreations that bring ancient Aquae Sulis to life
Consider a guided tour to get the most out of your visit
The Roman Baths are located next to the Pump Room in the center of Bath. It’s a short walk from the train station.
When you arrive, you may find quite a crowd gathered and signs indicating which time slot is currently being accommodated.
If you didn’t get tickets in advance, ask the person marshaling the crowd if you can still get in. I did this on a recent visit and the attendant promptly stood aside and motioned for me to walk right in, bypassing the long line. I didn’t stop to question my good fortune.
That said, I wouldn’t count on getting in without buying your ticket in advance. You can purchase tickets online from the official website or choose a tour.
Audio Guide
The price includes an audio guide with two tracks in twelve languages. The regular track provides the usual historical context in short and interesting installments.
The children’s track includes first-person accounts by the many characters that wander across screens projected throughout the museum. I alternate between the adult and children’s tracks. Both are excellent.
Touring the Baths
The clearly signposted route starts on the terrace, which consists of a walkway surrounding the baths.
This structure and the statues of various Roman bigwigs are Victorian additions that were built atop the Roman ruins to house the museum when it opened in the late 19th century.
The terrace is a delightful space surrounded by warm Bath stone and with the façade of Bath Abbey looming in the background. Below are the deep green waters of the main pool. Bath has been a mecca for health-seekers for two millennia.
View of the main pool from the top walkwayView of Bath Abbey from the top walkway
Hot Springs History
While touring the museum, you’ll learn that Bath is the only place in the entire country that has hot springs—three of them. No wonder people have been coming here for millennia.
Before the Romans arrived, the local Dobunni tribe worshipped the goddess Sulis at the sacred spring. In those days, the heated natural spring was a bubbling, steaming pool surrounded by a thick swamp.
When the Romans arrived, they incorporated worship of Sulis into their own pantheon and so transformed her into Sulis Minerva and called the settlement Aquae Sulis.
The Romans were generally “equal opportunity” when it came to accommodating other religions, so long as the people practicing them rendered unto Caesar the necessary taxes.
In Roman Britain, the legionnaires who first conquered the area must have been very happy to have found a place where they could soak their weary bones in warm water in the midst of a Great Britain winter.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, Bath developed into one of the world’s most fashionable watering holes. Everyone who was anyone came here to take the waters. Jane Austen herself bathed here.
Museum Exhibits
The tour leads back indoors and descends through several rooms full of artfully displayed exhibits about the Romans.
Enlivening the experience are screens projecting a selection of Roman bathers who would have frequented the baths back in the day. It’s a clever way to bring history to life and makes you feel like you’re witnessing it firsthand.
You can listen to a blacksmith on the audio guide while watching a screen showing him hard at work making armor.
Projection of a Roman blacksmith
The Baths
The exhibits give way to a series of walkways leading across the archaeological remains of the various rooms in the Roman Baths.
The Romans took their health seriously. There are rooms for getting massaged and plucked (apparently, the Romans weren’t keen on body hair), rooms for bathing in various water temperatures, and even a gymnasium where Romans got good and sweaty in humid air that still smells of sulfur.
Projection of Roman woman preparing to bathe
The ruins themselves don’t photograph particularly well. Here’s one room showing the bricks that would have been under the floor to supply the heating.
The audio commentary provides details about the impressive heating and cooling mechanisms. The Romans certainly knew how to engineer.
Ruins of the heating system
Minerva Sulis
One of the most striking artifacts on display is the gilt bronze head of the goddess Sulis Minerva. It’s a rare and beautiful example of ancient craftsmanship.
Bust of the goddess Sulis Minerva
Outside next to the large pool sits a Roman-clad guide. She acknowledges me with a regal nod when I take her picture. I’m unsure if she’s meant to speak or if her job is to sit by the pool all day and have her picture taken.
A Roman watches the crowds go by
Bath Tours
Bath is unique in that it has two inscriptions as a UNESCO World Heritage site. In the 1980s, the town was inscribed for its Hot Springs, Roman archaeology, Georgian buildings and natural landscape setting.
And then just a few years ago in 2021, it was awarded a second inscription as one of the Great Spa Towns of Europe.
The best way to explore Bath is through a walking tour. GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides.
Tours and Tickets
If you’re a Bridgerton fan, you may find this tour fun:
Ruins can be challenging to enjoy because they are, well, ruins. The Roman Baths manages to bring the stony vestiges of a once great Roman hangout to life with its thoughtful use of projections and audio commentary.
As you exit the museum, you can enjoy a cupful of the medicinal waters to give you energy for more Bath sightseeing.
The Roman Baths are open from 9 am to 10 pm from July 20 to August 31, and from 9 am to 6 pm from September 1 to December 31. Buy your tickets online from the museum’s website.
Have you visited the Roman Baths? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.
This must-see museum of thoughtfully curated exhibits showcases the history of life in rural England.
Eight galleries and an impressive open storage area present artifacts and commentary related to the traditions and challenges related to food production in the English countryside.
I spent a wonderful afternoon at this museum in Reading with associate director Isabel Hughes, who graciously answered my many questions about the museum and then took me on a guided tour.
This place is a real Artsy Traveler find! And fair warning: this is a LONG post because there is just so much to write about.
Some Background
I lived in Reading for three years a few decades ago. During that time, I attended the University of Reading where I earned my BA in English Language and Literature.
I hadn’t returned to Reading since I graduated, so on a recent trip to England from my home near Vancouver, BC, I decided to make Reading my first stop after flying to Heathrow from Vancouver.
I wasn’t sure what I planned to do during my one afternoon in Reading. I googled museums and discovered the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) run by my alma mater, the University of Reading.
I had never heard of MERL, although Isabel told me the museum was established in 1951 and did indeed exist when I attended the university in the 1970s.
In 2004, the museum moved to its spacious new digs in the former St. Andrew’s Hall, one of the student residences that was around during my time at the university.
Since its expansion, MERL has established itself as one of the United Kingdom’s premier destinations at which to learn about English rural life.
Why I Wanted to Visit the Museum of English Rural Life
I decided to visit MERL for two reasons.
First, it’s a niche museum and as such is a perfect candidate for featuring on Artsy Traveler.
Although I often write about blockbuster museums such as the Rijksmuseum, National Gallery of London, and the Uffizi, my heart beats particularly fast when I discover an off-the-beaten-track museum that my readers may not know about, and that fits with my interests.
The second reason I wanted to visit is because one of my novels titled Hidden Voices is partially set in Devon in the 1880s.
Eliza, my main character, must move with her family from a bucolic rural life in Devon to the “dark, satanic mills” of northern England where most of the novel takes place. In the scenes set in Devon, I wanted to sprinkle in a few more details about rural life that I hoped to find at MERL.
And I wasn’t disappointed! This extensive museum dedicated to farming practices and rural life is a hidden gem—and admission is free or by donation.
Arrival at the Museum of English Rural Life
A few hours prior to visiting MERL, I land at Heathrow after a smooth eight-hour flight from Vancouver. Twenty minutes after deplaning, I’m standing, phone in hand, searching for my Uber.
Most of that time has been taken up with long, long walks through long, long corridors, many rides up and down long escalators and a two-minute wait to go through the electronic customs kiosk.
Since my flight has arrived an hour early, I take the Uber to my hotel before heading to the museum. I’m staying at the Hotel Malmaison (#1 on the map) in downtown Reading, which I highly recommend. After freshening up, I decide to walk the 22 minutes from the hotel to MERL (#2). Here’s a map of Reading:
Along the way, I expect to take a few jaunts down memory lane, but alas, it isn’t to be. Nothing looks the same as I remember from the 1970s—not even close. The Reading skyline bristles with new buildings designed by architects who likely hadn’t been born when I was studying at the university.
When I lived in Reading, there was hardly anywhere to get coffee, much less enjoy a meal. We existed on copious amounts of strong tea; coffee bars were unheard of. And as for eating out, it just wasn’t done, or at least very rarely. Now, every other establishment in Reading serves food, or so it seems as I stroll past the cafes and restaurants in the downtown area.
Along the way, I cross over the Kennet-Avon canal which looks serene and well-groomed in the late August sunshine.
Kennet-Avon canal in Reading
When I arrive at MERL, associate director Isabel Hughes meets me and, over a very welcome cup of tea, we start our chat.
The Interview
Here’s a summary of my interview with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) at the University of Reading in England.
Carol
What is the purpose of the Museum of English Rural Life?
Isabel
The purpose of the museum is to present exhibits and objects that help visitors understand the human side of English rural life: the production of food, farming practices since the 19th century, and the changing countryside. We like to present the human side of rural life and really celebrate working people since the vast majority of people in the 19th century and into the 20th century either worked on the land or in mills, or were servants.
Farming practices began to change in the late 19th century because of the agricultural depression caused by wheat production in Canada.
Carol
That’s very interesting because in my novel Mill Song, my main character’s family moves from Devon because there is no more farm labor work for the men. I thought it was because of mechanization that jobs became scarce, but there was also an agricultural depression. It’s interesting that Canada was to blame! A lot of people, including many of my ancestors, emigrated from a rural life in the West Country to Canada during the 19th century.
Isabel
MERL was started by the Agriculture Department at the University of Reading in 1951. World War II had ended and there was a push to make agriculture more self-sufficient and productive with the use of insecticides and the development of large farms. But as a result, traditional farming practices were being lost.
The founders of the museum realized this and decided to collect items such as old wagons and hand tools. They went to agricultural shows and talked to farmers, and acquired examples of traditional crafts such as basketry, woodworking, and bodging (making things such as brooms and chairs out of unseasoned green wood).
In 2004, the museum moved to its present location in the former St. Andrew’s Hall of residence, helped in part by funding from Alfred Palmer, a well-known Reading businessperson.
Carol
I well remember taking my exams at Reading University in the Palmer Building! He was quite the benefactor.
What is your number one recommendation for touring the museum?
Isabel
We like people to have a wander and see it all. The huge collection of wagons is particularly impressive. We have wagons from almost every county in England.
One of the many wagons at MERL, this one from Dorset
People can explore the eight galleries and then go upstairs to view our open storage of the thousands of items the museum has collected over the years.
Attached to each artifact is a luggage label; these were the original labels affixed when the artifact was acquired by the museum.
A large collection of farm implements in the open storage area of the museum
Another thing that we want people to notice is the textile wall hanging created for the Countryside Pavilion at the Festival of Britain in 1951. It was one of several we acquired. The one on display depicts Cheshire and cheese production.
An enormous wall hanging featuring Cheshire and cheese production
Carol
What is your favorite exhibit and why?
Isabel
I think my favorite is a pitchfork that was grown in a hedgerow. A branch growing off the shrub was nurtured until it was just the right size and shape for a pitchfork.
It’s made by nature but guided by hand.
Isabel’s favorite, a pitchfork grown from a hedgerow
Carol
What are some of the hidden gems that visitors should check out at MERL?
Isabel
The display of friendly society pole heads is intriguing. A friendly society was a cooperative that workers bought into. If they had a rough time, then the cooperative could help to support them. The pole heads were elaborately carved and resembled pub signs. They were carried in processions such as church parades.
Some of the silver pole heads in the MERL collection
Carol
Is this place the only rural museum in England?
Isabel
It is one of the earliest museums but not the only one. There is a rural museum network that includes small community museums. Other large museums like MERL are the National Museum of Rural Life in Scotland and the St. Fagan’s National Museum of History in Wales. There is also the Weald and Downland Living Museum near Chichester, which is where Repair Shop is filmed. We like to think of MERL as the national rural museum for England, but it is not, officially.
Carol
What is the most popular gift shop item?
Isabel
We’ve had images from the wall hangings turned into merchandise such as mugs, pencil cases, notebooks, tea towels and bags. We also have tea towels depicting engineering drawings of farm machinery, which are very popular with enthusiasts who are interested in recreating rural farm machinery.
Carol
Are any new exhibits planned?
Isabel
We have quite a few artifacts related to the Roma people that are often not labeled as such. These include photographs of people working the land, and a gypsy wagon. We are starting to re-label these artifacts to feature the history of the Roma people in the English countryside.
A gypsy wagon
Carol
Anything else you’d like to share?
Isabel
At MERL, we have an extensive library and archives containing a wealth of stories. Of particular note is our archive of letters that children evacuees during World War II sent to their parents when they were evacuated from the cities to the countryside. Reading was one of the hubs for evacuee children. Some of the letters were positive, depicting the experience as active and fun, while others were from children who were upset and even mistreated.
The labels affixed to the children when they were put on the train to go into the countryside inspired Michael Bond to write the Paddington Bear books in the 1950s.
A group of children being evacuated from the city during World War II
Touring the Museum Galleries
After our chat, Isabel takes me around the museum. Seeing it after talking with her really brings it to life. Throughout the galleries are interactive activities for children. MERL has an active school program and welcomes over 50,000 visitors a year, likely a good proportion of them families.
I love the sheep clad in an Aran sweater in the first main gallery.
A large stuffed sheep wearing an Aran sweater greets visitors to the first large gallery
The size of MERL surprises me. The galleries go on forever, each one more chock-a-block with artifacts than the last. You can spend a lot of time here!
One of the very large galleries at the Museum of English Rural Life
Land Girls
I’m particularly taken by the collection of objects and photographs related to the Land Girls—young women who worked on the farms during World War II. Here are photographs of several Land Girls and the uniform they wore.
Land Girls in World War IILand Girls uniform in World War II
The Land Girls experience inspired Land Girls, a British TV series available on Netflix.
Traps
A sobering exhibit features various traps—both for animals and people. The two human traps are particularly horrifying. Anyone caught in one would likely die a very slow and painful death. These traps were placed to prevent poaching.
Human traps, fortunately outlawed in 1827.
We spend almost an hour roaming through the galleries and viewing the open storage collections on the first floor. I’m very impressed with both the size and the quality of the exhibits and am reminded how, in another life, I would have loved to have been a museum curator.
But being a novelist and travel blogger is also good—and MERL ticks the boxes on both fronts. I’m finding plenty of inspiration for the country scenes in Mill Song. The open storage collection of smocks, many beautifully embellished with traditional smocking, reminds me of what some of my characters may have worn. I can also imagine my main character wearing a bonnet, such as the ones displayed, while she helped with the harvest.
These smocks were likely worn for special occasionsBonnets in open storage
New Inspiration
To my delight, MERL sparks inspiration for a new novel based around the story of two evacuees in World War II. After my meeting with Isabel, I scribble several pages of notes about possible characters and plots. It looks like I’m going to have to return to MERL to comb through their extensive archive of letters written by evacuees during World War II.
I can only imagine what treasures await.
As the museum gets set to close, Isabel and I pose for a photo, I purchase a notebook that shows a detail from the Cheshire wall hanging, and say my good-byes.
Carol Cram with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life
I walk back to my hotel, enjoy an excellent dinner, and then, finally, turn the lights out at 9. My first day in the UK has been a success.
Exploring the Area
Here are some GetYourGuide tours in southern England. Most depart from London.
The Museum of English Rural Life is a specialty museum with broad appeal. Touring a museum dedicated to how food was produced back in the day reminds us of our rural roots–and everyone eats food! No matter where you come from, chances are good that at least a few of your ancestors had something to do with agriculture.
The opening times of Museum of English Rural Life are from 10am to 5pm daily and entrance is free. It is located at 6 Redlands Road in Reading, Berkshire. The museum’s extensive website showcases its many exhibits.
Have you visited this museum or another like it? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.
In the aftermath of the pandemic, everyone and their cousin who wants to travel and can travel is heading for Europe. Recently, Italy was named the number one tourist destination in the world, with France close behind. Many destinations are full to bursting with visitors, which means sold-out accommodations, packed beaches, and museums filled to the rafters.
Some communities, such as Barcelona and Malaga in Spain, and Santorini in Greece, have even launched campaigns to limit the number of tourists permitted to invade their hometowns at any one time.
Introduction
I’ve experienced my share of crowds all flocking to experience the same iconic sites—the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, the Uffizi in Florence, the Colosseum in Rome, the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Thousands surge into spaces meant for hundreds, each holding aloft a smartphone to capture the moment.
The joys of travel—discovering new places, meeting new people, learning new things, enjoying great art—quickly dwindle in the face of relentless crowds, inflated prices, and grumpy locals.
Interacting with Locals
When you travel to a new place, consider looking for opportunities to interact with locals instead of lining up for the big-ticket sites. Sample local food, check out off-the-beaten path museums and galleries, meet local artists and artisans, go to local concerts, ride public transit, and wander around back streets where local people live.
You can do all these things in even the most heavily-touristed destinations if you’re willing to zig away from the crowds rather than zag towards them. Doing so may require you to skip the most famous—and crowded—sites. But the rewards more than make up for any lingering feelings of FOMO (Fear of Missing Out).
Here are my top ten ways to joyously enjoy your European travels.
1. Check Restaurant Reviews
Chances are you’re traveling with a smartphone. Use it to find restaurants that fellow travelers and especially locals have rated highly. Ever since I started checking reviews and purposely choosing restaurants instead of wandering the streets in hopes of finding a place, I’ve enjoyed numerous awesome dining experiences.
In fact, I can safely say that almost every highly rated restaurant I’ve eaten at in Europe in the last few years was a winner.
A Parisian café is a great place to people watch while enjoying a trip to Europe
Search Criteria
I search for restaurants that have at least a 4.5-star average review and then read what people say about the quality of the food and the service. If most of the best reviews are in the local language, that’s a plus because it means the restaurant is well frequented by locals.
Make Reservations
Once I’ve made my choice, I visit the restaurant’s website and call to reserve a table or use the online booking system if it’s available. I’ve found in recent years that reservations are essential in many popular places. Without one, you may well be wandering for quite some time before finding a well-reviewed restaurant with available tables.
Note that during busy periods, you may have better luck choosing a reservation time when the restaurant opens (usually 7 or 8 pm, depending on the location). Europeans tend to eat dinner later than North Americans. If you make a reservation for 7 pm, you may well have the restaurant to yourself.
A good rule of thumb in any big European city is to steer clear of restaurants that are full of tour groups reading multi-lingual plasticated menus in high-rent locations such as the Piazza Navona in Rome.
Walk a few blocks away from the busy areas to quiet side streets and you’ll find favorite local restaurants with superb food.
Ask a Local for Recommendations
Another good strategy is to ask your hotel to recommend a local restaurant and then make a reservation for you. Every time we’ve gone to a restaurant recommended by our hotel, we’ve had a great meal.
For a giggle, check out what happened to me when I did not follow my own advice in Bella Roma Rip-off, one of the pieces inPastel & Pen: Two Ways of Seeing, a collaboration of my writing with Gregg Simpson’s artwork. Gregg is an artist and my husband and usual travel companion.
2. Seek Out Lesser-Known Museums
Your sightseeing time is precious. Instead of spending it waiting in long lines, seek out museums and other sites that may be less well known but are just as interesting (sometimes more so) and considerably less crowded. These days, you’ll stand in line to tour the big sites even if you book ahead. On a recent trip to Pompeii, I lined up for forty minutes to get my skip-the-line ticket that I’d purchased online days earlier, and then lined up for another twenty minutes in the skip-the-line line to get into Pompeii.
Instead of sweating in the queue outside the Louvre in Paris, visit the lovely Rodin Museum.
In Amsterdam, skip the Van Gogh Museum (or go very early in the day) and visit the charming and informative Rembrandt Huis.
In Rome, forget the Vatican Museum and head instead to the marvelous Etruscan Museum that houses an incredible collection of treasures. Both times I’ve visited, the museum was virtually empty, which is in no way a reflection on the quality of the displays. The museum just happens to be so far off the beaten track of Rome’s iconic sites that few tourists find it.
The Etruscan Museum is one of Rome’s most interesting museums
Lesser-Known Museums to Visit
Here are posts about some of my favorite lesser-known and fabulous museums:
If you’ve checked out other posts on Artsy Traveler, you’ll know that a lot of my European travel centers around my husband’s art exhibitions. Most exhibitions include an opening (a vernissage in France; an inaugurazione in Italy). These events often include food and wine, and a short talk by the artist and the curator. They are also free to anyone who wants to drop in.
We’ve frequently met fellow travelers at Gregg’s openings, in addition to local art lovers, and have attended the openings of exhibitions by other artists—some we knew, some we didn’t. We always have a memorable time!
Art openings at private galleries in Europe are usually free and open to everyone
Finding Art Openings
To find art openings, check online listings. Also, stroll areas that have a lot of art galleries, such as the Left Bank and Marais districts in Paris. You’ll have the most luck finding an opening in the early evening on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.
If you pass an art gallery hosting an opening, don’t be shy! Walk in and say hello, check out some artwork, and maybe even have a glass of wine and an appetizer. You’re bound to meet a few locals who speak English, or you can practice your language skills.
4. Attend Local Concerts and Events
One of my favorite things to do when traveling in Europe is going to classical music concerts. Sometimes, I book tickets ahead of time to see a particular concert, but at other times, I look for posters and flyers.
On a recent trip to Siena, I picked up a flyer in our hotel advertising an intimate concert with a singer and pianist held in a local church. It was magical!
While in Rome, we saw a poster advertising concerts at the stylish Auditorium Parco della Musica well off the tourist beat north of the city. We bought tickets, and enjoyed two fantastic concerts with other music lovers, the vast majority of whom were locals.
Classical music concerts are top quality and reasonably priced
Tourist Concerts
I find that attending concerts in Europe really enhances my appreciation of the local culture. Even if the concert is advertised for tourists—such as a flamenco performance in Seville—it’s going to be good.
Trust me on this. We’ve enjoyed fado in Lisbon, flamenco in Spain, medieval music in southern France, opera in Paris, folk music in Bacharach on the Rhine, Vivaldi in Venice, Stravinsky in Berlin, Chopin in Leipzig, Shostakovich in Hamburg…I could go on and on.
And best of all, prices for classical music concerts in some of the world’s best concert venues are shockingly reasonable compared to what we pay to attend a concert in Canada.
Local performances are generally authentic and well worth the price
5. Ride Public Transit
Few travel experiences bring you closer to locals than riding busses, trains, and metros. These days, you can pay for most transit options with a tap of your credit card. I love hopping on a bus and following my progress on Google Maps, so I know exactly where to get off.
I also enjoy people-watching on public transit. On very crowded busses and metros, just be sure to keep a good grip on your valuables. While violent crime in Europe is rare, pickpockets do flourish in crowded cities.
Take a city bus in Europe and enjoy great people watching
A Cautionary Tale
A word of caution about bus travel. If you happen to have a paper ticket, ALWAYS remember to validate it when you get on the bus. I learned this lesson the hard way. On a recent stay in Turin, I got on the bus, paper ticket in hand, and noticed that no one else was validating their tickets at the machine. I wrongly presumed that validation wasn’t required. Maybe it was a special holiday?
Ten minutes later, an inspector got on the bus and started checking tickets. Everyone on the bus held up their smartphones. As tourists, we had only the paper tickets we’d purchased from the local tobacconist. When the inspector came to Gregg and me and tried to scan our tickets—nada. My protestations of being a dumb tourist fell on deaf ears. That mistake cost us 40 euros—each.
So, just because no one else is validating their ticket doesn’t mean you shouldn’t validate your ticket!
6. Shop for Food in Local Markets
Shopping for snacks, lunches and the occasional dinner in your hotel room or apartment not only lets you experience life as a temporary local, but it also saves you money. In general, food prices are lower in Europe (although starting to rise). The quality of the fresh produce is also far superior to what is found in the average North American grocery store.
I love prowling the aisles of a European supermarket and ordering pre-made food at the in-store delis. I’ve typically found the staff to be friendly and tolerant of my attempts to at least say hello, good-bye and thank you in their language.
Outdoor Markets
Be on the lookout for open-air markets where you’ll find a dizzying array of foods along with clothing and knick-knacks. Some cities also have large indoor markets, such as the Mercado de Triana in Seville.
Interact with locals while browsing outdoor markets in Europe
7. Take a Cooking Class
When you take a cooking class in Europe, you’ll meet travelers from around the world and learn from a local chef. I’m a firm fan of cooking classes and take one every chance I get.
In a tapas class I took in Madrid, I met fellow travelers from Australia, Holland, the UK, France, and Korea.
8. Go on a Walking Tour
I’ve also become a big fan of walking tours, particularly specialty tours that cater to a specific interest. In Rome, I went on a walking tour of the old Jewish ghetto. In London, I explored the back alleys and colorful history of the Covent Garden theater district. In Stratford-upon-Avon, I joined three other people for a small walking tour with a guide pretending to be William Shakespeare.
Walking tours usually take you behind the scenes and to places where regular bus tours can’t go. The guides are often locals who are very enthusiastic about their subject and love showing off hidden gems.
A great source for walking tours is GuruWalk. All the tours listed are pay-what-you-can and run by locals. Here are some of the free walks available from GuruWalk in Paris.
9. Skip the Iconic Sites
Yes, this recommendation is blasphemy but heeding it could make the difference between reveling in a relaxing and memorable European vacation and enduring one that leaves you hot, bothered, and blistered. When you’re planning what you want to see, consider not visiting super popular sites such as the Colosseum in Rome, the ruins in Pompeii, and the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Instead, choose smaller, lesser-known museums and sites, and leave more time for wandering.
By all means, stroll past the Colosseum and view the Eiffel Tower from one of the bridges. Snap some photos and drink in the view. Then, veer off into a shady side street and enjoy an hour or tour wandering around a quiet neighborhood, sitting in a park, and enjoying a drink at an outdoor café surrounded by locals.
See the Colosseum from the outside only
Travel isn’t all about ticking off the big sites. Instead, think of travel as your opportunity to surround yourself with a kaleidoscope of interesting sights, sounds, and smells.
Slow down and savor the displays in a small museum, make time for a concert or an art opening, be on the lookout for a local festival, and just be.
10. Walk Away from the Crowds
Even in Venice, one of Europe’s busiest tourist cities, you can find solitude. Leave the busy piazzas and thoroughfares and within seconds, you’ll be wandering down narrow alleyways and crossing tiny bridges spanning sleepy canals that look like they haven’t been disturbed for centuries.
Even in crowded Venice, you can easily find quiet corners
I skirt the main tourist drags in busy towns by going left or right down the first narrow street I see. I may get a bit lost, but I’ll also find glorious solitude and the chance to commune with the past.
Siena’s Campo bustles with tourists but walk a few meters down a side street and you’re alone and surrounded by buildings that haven’t changed much in 700 years. And at night, you’ll even have the Campo all to yourself.
Have the Campo in Siena to yourself at night
Such opportunities for quiet encounters with history make European travel endlessly appealing.
If you’re a fan of English Romantic poets, then you must make a pilgrimage to the Keats-Shelley House in Rome.
This lovely little literary museum is nestled right next to the world famous Spanish Steps in Rome. Thousands of visitors mill around the piazza in front of the steps, climb the steps, and take pictures of the steps.
Yes, the steps really are very attractive–lots of flowers and a striking two-tower church at the top.
But in the end, the steps are, well, steps. If you go to the Spanish Steps, take a quick pic and then veer right to visit the Keats-Shelley House. You’re in for a first-rate Artsy Traveler experience.
Literary Leanings
If you’ve been reading the Artsy Traveler blog for awhile, you probably know that I write mostly arts-inspired historical novels. My first three novels feature a painter (The Towers of Tuscany), a composer (A Woman of Note), and an actress (The Muse of Fire).
So, as a novelist, I’m a lover of literature, and what could be more literary than two of the greatest Romantic poets?
Also, back in the day when I went to university in England, I took my degree in English Literature. As a result, I studied a lot of poetry, particularly by Shelley.
So to enter rooms where Keats and Shelley hung out, really is a pilgrimage.
Touring the Keats-Shelley House
The Keats-Shelley House is extremely easy to find thanks to its location next to the Spanish Steps. You’ll also see the banner hanging outside.
The Keats-Shelley House is open from 10 to 1 and 2 to 6, and includes a special rate for seniors.
The ticket person got on my good side by telling us we didn’t qualify for the senior’s rate because it’s only for people over 65. Awww. That was kind of her.
But needless to say, I corrected her and got the reduced rate.
You enter the museum and climb to the first floor where you’ll find the tiny gift shop (more on that later) and the ticket taker.
After paying the entrance fee, turn right to tour a series of beautiful rooms containing a great many treasures and curiosities associated with the lives and works of several of the Romantic poets and their associates.
You’ll see letters written by Keats, Shelley, Bryon, Mary Shelley, Wordsworth, and other luminaries from the time. The evenness of their penmanship puts most modern folks to shame!
Also on display are drawings, snippets of poetry, paintings, and other memorabilia. The explanations are clear and informative.
Why The Poets Loved Italy
Back in the 18th and 19th centuries, with a decade or two off during the beginning of the 19th century for the Napoleonic Wars, Italy was a mecca for poets and writers from northern climes, including the Romantic poets from England, and Goethe from Germany.
These writers loved Italy’s warm weather, easy-going life, and the inspiration to be found in so many centuries of history. What attracted them to Italy back then isn’t so very different from what attracts me to Italy today.
It’s a very special country with so much to offer. No wonder I keep coming back year after year!
Rooms in the Keats-Shelley House
The rooms in the Keats-Shelley House include a library of more than 8,000 volumes. It’s considered one of the finest libraries of Romantic literature in the world.
Thoughtfully presented displays provide you with a lot to read as you prowl around the rooms. You could spend a great deal of time here!
The tour through the rooms ends at the tiny bedroom where John Keats died on February 23, 1821 at the age of just 25. It’s astonishing how he was able to compose so much sublime poetry in so few years. The museum includes plenty of information in English and Italian about Keats, his life, his tragic death, and of course his poetry.
Was it a vision, or a waking dream? Fled is that music:—Do I wake or sleep?
From Ode to a Nightingale
Here is the bed on which Keats died.
Byron’s Bicentenary
At first, I was mystified by the several banners related to Byron on display in the main library. After all, it’s the Keats-Shelley House. The very friendly and knowledgeable attendant told us that the House is celebrating the Bicentenary of Byron’s death in 1824.
His poetry is figured prominently on red banners. I haven’t read Byron for many years, so it was a real treat to reacquaint myself with some of his poetry.
We had a great chat with the attendant about the poets, Mary Shelley and her mum Mary Wollstonecraft, and the arts in general.
I mentioned that I’d interviewed Samantha Silva, author of Love and Fury about Mary Wollstonecraft on The Art In Fiction Podcast. Since the attendant was obviously interested in the era, I figured she may want to read the novel (highly recommended, by the way). She was delighted to learn about it and promised to look up the podcast.
I also told her about my novels and gave her one of my bookmarks because, well, marketing.
The Terrace
A highlight of a visit to the Keats-Shelley House is walking out on to the sweet little terrace overlooking the Spanish Steps. Imagine Keats and the gang sitting out there on a warm May afternoon sipping tea and talking poetry!
It’s pretty cool to think that the view Keats saw wasn’t all that dissimilar to the view we see today.
The house included drawings of the Piazza Spagna and the steps in the early 19th century, and indeed, not much has changed if you look above the ground floor shops.
The Gift Shop
After thoroughly enjoying touring the rooms, we exited via the gift shop. I couldn’t resist buying myself a cloth bag with a Grecian Urn on it, homage to Keats’s Ode to a Grecian Urn.
I also studied the collection of fridge magnets. We’ve taken to buying them most places we visit. Back home, our fridge door is getting pretty full up, but there’s always room for one more, or in this case, three.
I couldn’t decide which magnet to buy–Keats, Shelley, or Bryon–and so I bought all three.
Here they are–Keats on the left, Shelley in the middle, and Byron on the right. These guys were all in the twenties and early thirties when they were hanging out together, and all three died young.
They’re a bit like the rock stars of their time–living with unbridled passion and energy that burned out quickly, but wow, what a legacy they each left in their wake!
Conclusion
Have you visited the Keats-Shelley House in Rome? What did you think Share your impressions in the comments below for other Artsy Travelers.
Artsy Tours in Rome
I couldn’t find any literary-themed tours in Rome on GetYourGuide, so here’s a selection of tours related to music and also a tour of locations mentioned in Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code series.
Note that I include tours listed on the GetYourGuide website because I’ve taken and enjoyed many of their tours.
You’ve arrived in Rome! Maybe, you’ve been lucky enough to have your taxi whisk you past the Colosseum on your way to your accommodations.
There it is! It’s huge! OMG!
We’re in the Eternal City!
This is SO cool!
Yes, the Colosseum in Rome is impressive and iconic. It’s the symbol of Rome and one of the seven wonders of the world. Millions of visitors come from all over the globe to see it. They snap selfies in front of it, gaze out over its ruined amphitheater, and stand in line-ups for hours.
My question is–should you bother? My answer? It depends!
Since my first visit to Rome in 1974, I’ve popped into the Colosseum four times. Three of those visits were great.
The most recent one was a nightmare.
The Colosseum itself hasn’t changed much apart from some restoration work over the decades. It’s still a massive ruin that, while impressive, bears little similarity to the magnificent original built over two thousand years ago.
Earthquakes, looting, and the general wear and tear of two millennia, not to mention the shuffling feet of millions and millions of visitors have taken their toll.
What has changed for visitors in recent years is just how incredibly crowded the Colosseum has become. The Colosseum ranks as the number one tourist attraction in Rome. Even St. Peter’s and the Vatican aren’t that crowded (although they are pretty much overrun).
Although I have no way of knowing for sure, I get the feeling during my most recent visit to the Colosseum that many people are ticking it off their must-see list, whether they are enjoying it or not. What a shame! Rome is so much more fabulous than the Colosseum.
The Colosseum is amazing, for sure. But is it worth your time to go inside when you can snap a photo like the one below with zero effort?
Should You Visit Rome and Not Go to the Colosseum?
Gasp! Should you do it? If you want to enjoy this marvelous city and you’re visiting between April to October, then I say yes, give the Colosseum a miss. Also forget the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel. You might consider visiting St. Peter’s since in my experience, the line moves fairly briskly and at least you’re outdoors for most of the wait.
But back to the Colosseum. In this post, I’ll describe my latest visit. You can then decide for yourself if it’s worth several hours of your precious sightseeing time. Or, would you be better off skipping the crowds and heading for some of the city’s quieter and infinitely more lovely sights such as the cosy Keats-Shelley House near the Spanish Steps?
Signing Up for a Colosseum Tour: Smart Idea or ?
As a savvy traveler (or at least so I like to think!), I know that the early visitor beats the crowds. The two-hour guided tour of the Colosseum I sign up for starts at 8 am and guarantees first entry into the site.
I imagine wandering through deserted passageways, the morning sun slanting pleasingly across the ancient ruins. The only sounds are the murmurs of the guide, a few tweeting birds, and perhaps the whispers of long-gone gladiators wafting up from the cells beneath the arena.
I mean, who starts sightseeing so early in the morning? For sure, I’ll have the place to myself along with a handful of other intrepid travelers willing to sign up for an early morning tour.
Finding the Tour
Promptly at 7:50 am, I arrive at the meeting point across the street from one of the entrances to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. A small crowd of at least fifty people all proffering cell phones is my clue that I’m in the right place. I wait patiently for the beleaguered guide to check my phone, declare me valid, and press a small white sticker onto my chest. It’s now about 8:10 am, so obviously the tour doesn’t actually start at 8 am.
While waiting, I snap a photo of the Roman Forum across the street. It looks splendid in the early morning sun of one of the first really warm days I’ve experienced in Rome on my current trip in early May.
Waiting to Enter the Colosseum
Several minutes later, we are ushered across the road to the entrance gate and told that the ticket takers open at 8:30 and that we will be first! (said with enthusiasm, like it is a rare treat and not what we’ve signed up for).
Ticket takers? I’d neglected to read the fine print of the tour. The cost does not include the cost of entry into the archaeological site which includes the Forum and Palatine Hill in addition to the Colosseum.
A word of warning: Check what’s included in your tour and opt for a tour that includes the entry cost so the guide already has your tickets.
Lesson learned, I prepare to wait in line (at least I am close to the front) until the ticket booths open at 8:30–another fifteen minutes. After all, the guide has assured us that we’ll be first into the Colosseum. Isn’t that worth waiting a few extra minutes for?
Remember the tweeting birds, the silence of the ancient stones, the gladiator ghosts reminiscing about gladiator fights, the glorious isolation!
Buying a Ticket to the Colosseum
At precisely 8:40 am, the ticket takers open the two wickets and the first people in line eagerly step forward to buy their tickets. Yahoo! The line will surely go quickly and I’ll be inside the Colosseum communing with history and getting tons of inspiration for my next novel in no time flat.
8:50 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth.
9:00 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth. Oh wait! One of the groups has left and another couple has stepped forward. But at the other booth, the same four people are still talking with the attendant. What can they be talking about? What’s the holdup? Are they sharing recipes? Have they found a long-lost cousin? What gives?
The guide comes by and tells us to have our passports out and ready to show the ticket takers. What? I don’t have my passport with me although fortunately I do have my driver’s license. I ask the guide if that will do. Yes. Phew.
Another five minutes goes by and the first group of four finally leaves the booth. They are looking weary but relieved. I’d love to ask them what went down, but of course I don’t dare risk losing my place in line.
The next group steps forward. I take to counting to gauge how long they stay at the booth. Sixty seconds, another sixty, another sixty…five minutes and they’re done. Another ten minutes goes by during which time a few more groups get to the booth and then several minutes later step away, tickets in hand. Their per wait time is marginally decreasing.
Progress is being made.
My Turn Getting Tickets for the Colosseum
Finally, it’s my turn. I’m about to find out why it takes almost five minutes to process each person in a line that is now stretching back to the road and a considerable way along it. Did all these people book a group tour that required them to buy tickets?
I find out later that yes, they are all group tour people. The “regular” people who just want a ticket to the Colosseum without a tour buy their tickets at another booth. I’ll soon discover that many, many hundreds of them get inside the Colosseum long before we arrive.
So much for us being first!
Anyway, I’m at the booth.
“One for the Colosseum, per favore.”
“One?”
“Si.”
The attendant shakes her head as if to say what kind of a loser visits the Colosseum all by themselves first thing in the morning? I don’t share that my husband has elected to do the smart thing and spend a leisurely morning enjoying cappuccino and a walk about the chic ‘hood we’re staying in up near the Piazza del Popolo.
Instead, I push my driver’s license under the glass barrier and she places it in front of her keyboard. Then, with two stiff fingers, she laboriously starts to type. No wonder this whole process is taking forever! She has to physically enter the ID for every single person in line and she can’t touch type.
Oh dear.
After about two minutes (possibly a record), she hands me back my driver’s license, I pay with my credit card, and then I go stand with my fellow line waiters for the tour to begin.
It’s now 9:30 am.
Starting the Tour of the Colosseum–Almost
Promptly at 9:45 am, only 1 hour and 45 minutes past the tour start time, our guide leads those of us who have Colosseum tickets marked 9:15 am to another loooooong line. This is the line for all the Skip-the-Line group tours. As I said, it’s long.
Security Line at the Colosseum
We wait for another twenty minutes while the guide finally explains why progress that morning has been unusually slow. I’m at least heartened to find out that the current process is not normal. Apparently, there was a security incident (bomb scare?) a few days earlier, and since May 1 (it’s May 3rd), new procedures using a new security firm are being instituted.
Unfortunately, thorough testing is lacking so chaos reigns as the Colosseum ticket takers are obliged to enter everyone’s ID information into the computer and new security personnel are stationed at the entrances to the actual Colosseum to again check IDs and tickets.
Entering the Colosseum
We finally reach the front of the Skip-the-Line group tour line and enter the outer perimeter of the Colosseum.
It’s big. Really big—much bigger than it looks from the road with massive columns that soar way up into the blue Roman sky. Inside, the arches are truly impressive. Roman engineering is a marvel.
The guide starts her spiel while leading us to yet another line. She tells us that construction of the Colosseum began between 70 and 72 CE during the reign of the Emperor Vespasian. Before then, the area had been a lake on the grounds of Nero’s Domus Aurea (golden house).
Nero was not popular, to say the least, and so the decision to replace his private lake with a public amphitheater hosting thousands of locals was a great way to erase him from recent history.
The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with Euros so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.
Not Everyone Loves Rome
The guide takes a break from her history lesson and cheerfully asks two people in the group where they are from. They reply that they are from Austria and that never again will they come to Rome because it is horrible and dirty. I am offended on behalf of both myself and the guide who smiles gamely but I can see is a trifle nonplussed. I mean, rude much? Apparently, the Austrians booked into a hotel that is less than stellar and that has colored their whole opinion of one of my favorite cities in the world.
I want to tell them that the place we’re staying in is absolutely wonderful—clean, spacious and in an excellent location. Here’s the link to our serviced apartment called Viam 6B. It truly is one of the best places we’ve stayed in Rome, ever.
Perhaps the Austrians decided to cheap out. Rome is a fabulous place to visit, but accommodations are not budget friendly. But then you can say that about just about every destination in Europe in recent years. The days of Europe on $5 a day (or even $100 or $200 a day) belong to the middle of the last century.
The guide decides not to ask the rest of the group about their experience. The mood is already a bit iffy considering we’ve all stood in lines for more than two hours for our first-into-the-Colosseum tour and haven’t actually started touring the Colosseum. We are in it, but only just.
The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with coins so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.
Climbing to the Top of the Colosseum
And then, finally, we’re in and the tour officially begins. The guide talks to us for quite a while about the history of the Colosseum and then invites us to trudge up three flights of very steep steps to look out over the arena.
We emerge into a surging Sargasso Sea of visitors all packed cheek by jowl along the railing much like the spectators must have done during the Colosseum’s heyday. Everyone’s snapping selfies (something that wasn’t done during the days of the Roman empire) and I suppose communing with their inner gladiator.
We walk and walk and walk some more around the perimeter to a slightly less crowded stretch of railing, and get our one minute of time to snap pics of the ancient amphitheater.
Yes, it’s an impressive place for sure. In its day, up to 70,000 screaming Romans watched gladiatorial combat, executions, triumphal celebrations, and other spectacles. Today, approximately 16,000 people visit the Colosseum every single day. So although the place feels very crowded to me, it is positively empty compared to what it would have been back when the arena floor was covered in sand to better absorb the blood.
The guide talks about how wild beasts were starved for days before being let loose to gnaw on convicts, Christian martyrs, and anyone else the Emperor didn’t like. It’s the odd interesting fact such as this that you get from a guided tour.
Is A Guided Tour of the Rome Colosseum Worth the Wait?
So, should you opt for a guided tour of Rome’s most famous monument, check it out on your own, or forget about it and do something that doesn’t involve rubbing shoulders (literally) with thousands of strangers?
You may have guessed my opinion, which is Door #3. The entire tour/ordeal lasted about three hours, with the smallest number of minutes devoted to the tour and the largest to waiting for the tour.
Now, to be fair, the extra security measures ate up a goodly chunk of that three hours. I don’t know if these measures will become the norm going forward, in which case be prepared for waits, or if it’s temporary. You’ll have to check that out before you book.
I don’t blame the tour guide for all the waiting. She was doing her best in difficult circumstances and to her credit remained cheerful and upbeat throughout. I gave her a 5 Euro tip which appeared to surprise her, but hey, I figure she’d earned it.
Most people either didn’t tip or gave her 5 euros for their entire party which I thought was a bit cheap of them. Tips are not required, but I think it’s a good idea to give the guide a little extra considering they probably don’t get paid all that much, and it’s a challenging job at the best of times.
Touring the Colosseum On Your Own
What about the second option—see the Colosseum on your own? I think it may be marginally the better option because you don’t need to arrive at a location two hours ahead of when you get in. Instead, you can go straight to the ticket line and take your chances. The wait could be 10 minutes or two hours.
You could also buy your ticket online. You’ll still need to stand in line-ups, but not for quite so long. It’s difficult to say. We bought our “skip-the-line” tickets to Pompeii online and still had to wait in line about 20 minutes to exchange the online tickets for real tickets.
When To Visit the Colosseum
I think the moral of the story is that whatever way you slice it, sites like the Colosseum are really, really popular. You can try to beat the crowds, but I don’t think in any universe you’ll get around waiting in long lines.
My advice? Either visit the Colosseum during the off-season (November to March) when crowds are thinner, or forget about it and go see some of the city’s other awesome sites.
Tours of the Colosseum
If you do opt for a tour (and I’m just saying, buyer beware), then GetYourGuide has plenty of tours to choose from. I suggest choosing a tour that includes a ticket to the Colosseum and the Forum so you won’t need to line up to buy your ticket separately.
Also, you may be better off booking a tour in the late afternoon or opt for one of the evening tours instead of the morning. I felt like everyone fueled up on their hotel breakfast as early as possible and made a beeline for the Colosseum as their first stop of the day. Possibly later in the day may be less frantic.
Other Sites in Rome
Rome is chock-a-block full of amazing things to see and do. Here are some of my favorite sites in Rome. You’ll note that I don’t include big ticket items like the Vatican Museum, St. Peter’s, the Pantheon, and the Trevi Fountain, all of which are over-run with visitors.
These are just a sampling. There are also a ton of fabulous churches, some with Roman foundations.
My Favorite Activity in Rome
For me, my favorite Rome activity is walking around the various neighborhoods and avoiding the bottleneck areas around the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, St. Peter’s Square, and especially the Trevi Fountain. If you want to experience any of those places crowd-free, either swing by late at night or go for a very early morning stroll.
Here’s a shot taken on our way home after a scrumptious dinner in a restaurant on an atmospheric side street just steps from where we stayed at Viam 6B, which was not far from the Spanish Steps.
Accommodation Options in Rome
On my latest trip to Rome, I stayed in two places in Rome because I broke up the 2-week stay with a 5-day trip south to Naples and Paestum (read about my visit to the incomparable Naples Archaeological Museum).
For the first week, I stayed at Sant’Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome, very close to a lot of Roman ruins in addition to the Capitoline Museum and the Piazza Venezia, site of the Victor Emmanuel monument. The apartment was very atmospheric and in an excellent location for exploring ancient Rome.
After touring the Naples area, I returned to Rome and stayed at Viam 6B, located between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Popolo–a very upscale and chi-chi part of Rome with lots of designer stores. I preferred the location of the first place because the area was much less touristy and very medieval-feeling. However, the apartment at Viam 6B, was very modern and comfortable and included a beautiful outdoor terrace. It was also staffed which is nice for getting directions and ordering taxis.
But both places were great and I’d cheerfully stay in either on my next trip to Rome.
More Tour Options for Rome
Touring major sites such as the Colosseum and Vatican in Rome can get tiring. Why not take a break and opt for a more relaxing experience, such as this food tour of the lively Trastevere District (one of my favorite areas of Rome).
If you enjoy walking tours, I can recommend the tours offered by GuruWalks. Here are a few of the tours available in Rome.
Conclusion
Have you visited the Colosseum in Rome recently and not found it crowded? Do you have any tips for how to have an enjoyable visit? Please share in the comments below.
Posts About Rome
Here are some more posts about Rome, one of my very favorite cities in the world. I’ve visited eight times, and I’m not done yet!
Naples-bound? Then put the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli aka the National Archaeological Museum of Naples high on your list of must-sees.
I’ve visited Pompeii twice before my most recent trip in 2024 and both times, I never managed to visit the Naples National Archaeological Museum. I came close when visiting with my family in 1994. We took a taxi from our hotel to the museum on our way to Pompeii only to find it closed.
In those pre-Google days, I’d neglected to read the guide book.
So on my latest trip I was determined to finally see the museum because it houses the vast majority of the art excavated from ancient Pompeii and Herculaneum and is considered one of the best archeological museums in the world.
See the National Archaeological Museum of Naples First!
Now that I’ve toured the National Archaeological Museum, I can without hesitation recommend that you go there first and then tour the ruins of Pompeii and/or Herculaneum. Both cities were buried in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 CE, with excavations starting at far back as the 16th century.
As you’ll discover, Pompeii and Herculaneum are pretty much all ruins (quel surprise!) with the vast majority of the frescoes, mosaics, and statues long ago removed to the National Archaeological Museum.
Also, to be honest, wandering around Pompeii in the heat (I visited in late April and it was 30 degrees) with thousands of other visitors is not as comfortable an experience as strolling through room after room in the thoughtfully air conditioned National Archaeological Museum of Naples.
Overview of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples
In this post, I’ll share some of my favorite parts of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples (MANN) with the proviso that the museum is chock-a-block with amazing objects from antiquity.
I’ve rarely seen such a beautifully appointed museum where just about every item in it is worth a stop and a good long look.
You can easily visit the National Archaeological Museum in about two to three hours, depending on your energy level. You’ll also find a good cafe so you can take a break for refueling after touring a floor or two.
I did, and it made all the difference to my enjoyment of the museum.
Exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples
When I toured MANN in late April, the crowds were light (unlike the next day in Pompeii!) and I waited only a few minutes at the entrance to buy tickets.
In busier times of the year, you may want to skip the ticket line by buying your tickets online from the museum’s website or through resellers such as Get Your Guide.
Plan of Attack
The museum is organized according to type of art, so you’ll find rooms full of artifacts from Pompeii, including sculptures, mosaics, everyday objects, frescoes, and coins.
I saw most of what was on display in the sculpture, mosaic, everyday objects, and fresco areas. The quality of the work is awe-inspiring.
I suggest starting with the sculptures on the ground floor and then going to the top floor and working your way down. Doing so minimizes stair climbs (there’s an elevator to whisk you to the second floor) and conserves energy.
Sculptures
Start with sculptures because they are the first things you see when you enter the museum.
Wowza! They are stunning. I didn’t expect to see so many really large sculptures that looked like they were chiseled yesterday when in fact they are almost 2000 years old.
Here’s a selection of my favorites.
Hercules at Rest
Even big guys like Hercules can use some time off now and again. This massive sculpture of old Herc shows him leaning on his club. The sculpture is a Roman copy from the end of the 2nd/beginning of the 3rd Century CE of a Greek statue from the second half of the 4th century BCE. The subject of Hercules at rest is a very popular one. It shows him exhausted and pensive after having undertaken yet another labor for his cousin Eurytheus.
While the top half of Hercules sags with fatigue, his legs and feet still look dynamic, as if he was ready to spring into action (yet again) at any moment. The sheer size of the statue took my breath away–and it’s just one of many dozens of sculptures in MANN.
Hercules is part of the Farnese Collection, which was one of the first collections of artistic items from Greco-Roman antiquity.
It was started by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese (he later became Pope Paul III) back in the 16th century when collecting antiquities started being all the rage. Many of the works in MANN are from his collection.
Dog Sculptures
Large sculptures dominate the rooms, but they are by no means the only sculptures worth admiring at MANN. Here are three incredibly charming sculptures of Roman pooches. They look like they could come to life at any minute and run toward you, tails wagging.
Athena
Athena is the Goddess of Wisdom, along with warfare and handicrafts. The next time you pick up a knitting project, call on Athena for some extra guidance!
This sculpture (bigger than can possibly be portrayed in a photo) really shows off Athena’s robes in all their pleated glory.
Bust of a Woman
I don’t know who this is but I love her hair! At least I think the bust is of a woman’s head.
She looks a bit careworn, perhaps from having to cope with all those corkscrew locks every day. I also loved the black stone–an interesting break from the predominantly cream-colored marble used to create most of the other sculptures in MANN.
It’s hard to believe this sculpture dates back two millennia. Like most of the sculptures in MANN, the bust is in near perfect shape.
Petite Figure
This small statuette of a child is one of several equally adorable pieces. You can understand how the artists descended from the ones who sculpted these pieces came up with cupids!
The pieces look incredibly lifelike.
Everyday Objects
For me, a highlight of the MANN collection is the vast array of household and everyday objects that were salvaged from Pompeii during excavations that began in the late 18th century. Many of the objects were remarkably preserved–pots, glassware, small statues of household gods, combs, jewelry, cooking utensils–you name it.
The ancient Roman versions of pretty much everything humans need to cook, clean, and live in houses is on display.
It turns out that Romans aren’t all that different from us when it comes to the stuff they had in their houses. Take away our electronics and indoor plumbing, and we’re left with similar objects to those used by the average Pompeii resident: wine bottles, cooking pots, jewelry, cups, combs, chairs, and the like.
Here are some particularly fine examples of the household objects salvaged from the ruins of both Herculaneum and Pompeii.
Glass Cup
Can you believe this cup is 2000 years old? I was astonished to see it in the display, but yup, according to the description. the object is a “so-called millefiori ribbon small cup” from Pompeii in the 1st century CE.
It looks like something I could buy today in Venice.
Terracotta Frog
Is this little guy not the sweetest thing? It’s a statuette of a frog made from lead-glazed terracotta. I’m not sure what he was used for, but he sure caught my eye.
And he was just one of many, many such objects artfully displayed in room after well-lit room at MANN.
Deep Wine Cup
Look at the handiwork on this lead-glazed terracotta wine cup! It’s decorated with vegetable motifs and doves. Imagine drinking your wine out of that!
Cosmetic Jar
Ladies in Pompeii wore cosmetics just like women do today. But with plastic rather lacking, they stored their cosmetics in glass containers such as the one shown below.
Again, it looks brand new! The jar is described as free-blown glass from the 1st century CE.
Blue Glass Pitcher
And last but not least, I have to include this perfect example of a free-blown glass pitcher. Look at the color! There were also many, many more examples of pitchers blown in darker tones as well as clear glass.
I still can’t get over how they survived the blast, but I guess the ash buried things so thoroughly that they were preserved during the 1800 odd years they lay undisturbed. Remarkable!
Mosaics
The people of Pompeii and Herculaneum sure liked their mosaics. The floors of many houses, particularly those belonging to rich people (of which there were quite a few in Pompeii), were decorated with mosaics.
The mosaics in MANN give just a taste of just how opulent the homes must have been. The intricacy of the mosaics really is breathtaking.
Zootopia Mosaic
Here is a series of three mosaics, displayed in horizontal format, but shown here in three parts to better check out the imagery. Each of these mosaics includes a bevy of wild animals–from hippos to snakes to ducks to crocodiles. What a tour de force!
Dog Mosaic
The Romans definitely liked dogs! Here’s another depiction of a dog–this time in mosaic form. This image is very popular; it’s on various products sold in the gift shop, including bags, fridge magnets, and mouse pads.
I did buy a fridge magnet at the MANN gift shop, but of Sappho (see below) not the dog!
Sea Creatures
Can you imagine the imagination that concocted this delectable cornucopia of sea creatures? Wow! I particularly like the giant octopus in the middle. The mosaic also reminds me of the kinds of displays you’d see in 19th century natural history museums.
Frescoes
Paintings galore! You won’t believe how many paintings and frescoes you’ll find at MANN. This is because the Romans lavishly painted the inside walls of their villas and added painted embellishments just about anywhere there was a blank wall.
That so many of these paintings survived the eruption of Vesuvius is truly remarkable.
The Romans were unbelievably good painters. They’d mastered perspective and realism 1500 years before the Renaissance. So many of the paintings in MANN look like they could have been painted in the past few hundred years, particularly the gorgeous still lifes.
Here’s my best picks at MANN.
Isis & Snakes
Snakes are quite a recurring theme in the paintings in MANN. I’m not sure why that is; perhaps sea serpents were bigger and more threatening back in the day.
For whatever reason, you’ll see snakes depicted in mosaics and frescoes, and included as details on pots, urns, and other objects.
This fresco, which had once graced the wall of a villa in Pompeii, shows Isis hauling the boat with the body of Osiris along the Nile accompanied by snakes lurking below the surface. Cheerful.
Still Lifes
I couldn’t believe the quality and quantity of still life paintings at MANN. The realism truly is incredible. I have a soft spot for still lifes (see my post about the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam where some of my fave still lifes are exhibited).
I never knew that the ancient Romans were so adept at creating them.
Here are two still lifes–one of dead birds and mushrooms, and the other of a bunny with onions.
Erotica
Don’t miss the Secret Room if you’re inclined to view the museum’s extensive collection of erotic and sexually-themed objects and paintings salvaged from Pompeii and Herculaneum.
The room was finally re-opened in 2000 with a display that organizes objects according to their, ah, function and material.
It’s a bit of an eye-opener, but definitely interesting and proving there is nothing new under the sun!
Portraits
MANN includes several portraits of Romans in its collection. One of the most famous is the portrait of the baker Therentius Neo and his wife. Don’t they look contemporary?
Walking along the streets of Naples after visiting MANN brought us face to face with several of their descendants!
Here is another very famous portrait, this one of the poet Sappho, or at least that’s how it’s billed. The truth is that we don’t know if the portrait is actually of Sappho. It’s rather a “typological” representation of a young woman holding a stylus and a wax tablet–two things the real poet Sappho would likely have.
Anyway, it’s nice to think the portrait really is of Sappho which is probably why the image is everywhere in the gift shop, including on the fridge magnet I bought.
Could This be My Next Character?
And finally, I came across this lovely mosaic portrait of a young woman. According to the description, the mosaic dates to the Julian-Claudian era (27 BCE to 68 CE) in Pompeii. She’s likely pretty high born (check out the necklace).
I love how she looks directly out at the viewer. If I do decide to write a novel set in ancient Rome (and I am toying with some ideas), then this mosaic could be the image of my main character!
Tour Options in the Naples Area
Here are some Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com tickets and tours you may wish to consider while in the Naples area. I frequently purchase tours and tickets from Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com and have yet to be disappointed. The tours they include on their website are, in my experience, reasonably priced and interesting.
If you enjoy walking tours, then you can’t go wrong with GuruWalks. Check out their tours in Naples.
Where to Stay in Naples
Here are the two places I’ve stayed in Naples:
The Hotel Paradiso is located on Posillipo Hill and has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.
The Palazzorefici is a stylish apartment deep in the heart of Naples on a tiny side street. It’s close to a main street where you can easily get taxis to where you want to go in Naples.
Conclusion
In this post, I’ve just scratched the surface of the collection at the National Archaeological Museum of Naples. I recommend you make time in your itinerary to visit, preferably as I said earlier, before you visit Pompeii.
In fact, if I had to choose between visiting Pompeii and visiting the museum, I’d choose the museum. Yes, I know that the ruins are way more famous–and they are pretty impressive. However, they truly are mobbed with visitors.
And they are BIG! If you can, visit very early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid the heat. Alternatively, visit at a time of year when temperatures are less ferocious. There is virtually no shade anywhere.
Have you visited the National Archaeological Museum in Naples? What were some of your favorite objects? Share in the comments below.
