As an Artsy Traveler, one of the most rewarding things I recommend you do is sign up for an artsy retreat in a gorgeous location. You’ll get inspired while learning new techniques and meeting like-minded travelers.
I recently discovered the Villa Lena in Tuscany (and I LOVE Tuscany!) where you can do just that.
Imagine spending four days surrounded by spring flowers in the Tuscan countryside while you learn how to arrange and paint flowers with master artist Tanvi Pathare.
From May 5th to 10th in 2023, Tanvi will be conducting four watercolor master classes that “will focus on an old and healing art form: the slow-paced appreciation of flowers, landscapes, and natural beauty.”
Sounds pretty awesome to me! I hooked up virtually with Tanvi and asked her some questions about her background as an artist and about her upcoming Flower Painting Retreat at the Villa Lena in Tuscany.
Interview with Tanvi Pathare
I interviewed Tanvi virtually (and hope one day to meet and learn with her in person!). Here is our interview.
Who is Tanvi Pathare?
Artsy Traveler: Tell us about your background as an artist–where you studied and some of your influences.
Tanvi Pathare: I was born in Mumbai, India. Since an early age, I was fascinated by the idea that you could create something beautiful with your hands; I enjoyed the craft element of it. I studied at the Sir J. J. School of Art in Mumbai, after which I moved to Florence in the search of more formal training as a realist painter.
I studied in the painting program at the Florence Academy of Art. After graduating from this program, I began teaching, and have been a Principal Instructor for drawing and painting at The Florence Academy ever since.
I look up to painters such as Rembrandt, Titian, Van Dyck, John Singer Sargent, Emil Carlsen, Henri Fantin-Latour, and Isaac Levitan to name a few.
Tanvi’s Inspiration
Artsy Traveler: What is it about floral painting that inspires you?
Tanvi Pathare: I feel my journey as a painter involves the constant delightful pursuit of studying the perfection of nature. Flowers are a wonderful source of inspiration, as they change, move, and grow. I find tracking their beauty through paint highly intriguing.
Tanvi teaching painting in Florence
Tanvi’s Favorite Flowers
Artsy Traveler: Do you have any favorite flowers that you particularly enjoy painting?
Tanvi Pathare: I truly enjoy painting roses and peonies. I think their overall forms are very intricate, and hence a good place to spend a few hours meditating over them.
Painting of peonies by Tanvi Pathare
Influences of Location
Artsy Traveler: You grew up in India and now live in Florence. How have these locations inspired you? What changed in your work when you moved to Europe?
Tanvi Pathare: I think having grown up in India, color (and a lot of it) was always a part of my visual aesthetic. Moving to Florence, I think my palette, became a bit more harmonized, though still having sharp color notes. My formal training in Florence helped me organize my ideas in a more cohesive way. Living in Florence, you are spoilt by the beauty around you. I think Mumbai and Florence will always be an integral part of my language as a painter.
Villa Lena Workshop
Artsy Traveler: As a workshop leader, what do you hope participants will take away from their experience painting with you?
Tanvi Pathare: hope that participants walk away with a new found appreciation of nature and flowers. Painting flowers is a beautiful way of truly appreciating their beauty because you spend much longer looking at them, versus just taking a picture of them and moving along..
White Roses by Tanvi Pathare
Tanvi Pathare’s Artwork
Tanvi’s art is truly exquisite. Her website beautifully showcases her work with various subjects: portraits, landscapes, and still lifes (lots of flowers in this category).
Here is a selection of some of her works I particularly liked. I can definitely see how she is influenced by masters such as Titian and Rembrandt and also by 19th century painters such as Henri Fantin-Latour and John Singer Sargent.
Landscapes by Tanvi Pathare
Tanvi’s website includes several paintings of the Tuscan landscape. Artists have been captivated by this landscape for centuries and no wonder. Tanvi captures the light and motion with fluid strokes and an eye for strong composition.
The Valley in Lucca by Tanvi PathareThe Mediterranean by Tanvi Pathare
Still Lifes by Tanvi Pathare
I often gravitate to still life paintings when I tour art museums. I especially enjoy flower paintings, perhaps because my mother painted flowers almost until she passed at the age of 93. So flower paintings have been a part of my life forever. Also, although I’m not the best of gardeners, I love watching flowers grow! Tanvi’s flower paintings really spoke to me. She captures the exuberance of their colors and the whimsy of their forms spilling out of vases and scattering petals. I feel like I can reach out and pluck a rose just before it falls.
Wine and Roses by Tanvi Pathare
Of Peonies and Roses by Tanvi Pathare
A Wisteria Dream by Tanvi Pathare
Still Life with Roses and Cherry Blossoms by Tanvi Pathare
The Flower Painting Workshop at Villa Lena runs from May 5th to May 10th, 2023. You stay at the Villa Lena and can participate in many more activities in addition to flower painting.
When I read the description about what participants in Tanvi’s floral painting workshop at the Villa Lena are going to do during their stay, I wish I could hop on a plane and attend myself. Alas, not this Spring, although I plan to visit the Villa Lena when I’m in Tuscany in the Fall of 2023.
Here’s what you’ll enjoy during your floral painting workshop:
5 nights accommodation on site at Villa Lena
Full board – farm to table feasting.
4 master classes on painting floral compositions with Tanvi Pathare
Wine tasting
Afternoon tea & baking lesson with in-house pastry chef
Pasta cooking class
Olive oil tasting
Guided tours of the VL orto & flower farm, with flower cutting session
Daily Yoga
Access to Villa Lena facilities including 2 pools, 2 bars and beautiful common areas.
That sounds like an amazing way to spend some time in Tuscany! Interested?
Full disclosure: If you follow this link and book a stay at the Villa Lena, I earn a small commission. Thank you!
Visit Villa Lena
Villa Lena is located in the heart of Tuscany between Pisa and Florence. The villa hosts retreats and offers agriturismo accommodation.
Villa Lena in TuscanyPool overlooking the Tuscany countryside at Villa Lena
Staying at the Villa Lena
The accommodations at Villa Lena are stylish and comfortable. I’m imagining myself sitting in front of that view doing some writing. I’ve always found Tuscany an incredibly inspiring place to work and can’t wait to get back there in Fall 2023.
View from a room at Vill Lena
A bedroom at the Villa Lena
Villa Lena Foundation
The villa is also affiliated with the Villa Lena Foundation, a not-for-profit organization dedicated to supporting international contemporary artists working in art, music, film, literature, fashion, and other creative disciplines, and fostering opportunities for multi-disciplinary dialogue. If you’re an artist, you can apply to do at residency at the Villa Lena Foundation. Applications open soon for residencies in 2024. Check the Villa Lena Foundation website for details.
Art studio at the Villa Lena Foundation
Conclusion
Are you traveling to Tuscany this spring? Consider spending time at the Villa Lena learning flower painting with Tanvi Pathare. You’ll come away with a renewed appreciation of the beauty of nature and a painting or two that you’ve created.
Have you ever taken an art workshop or gone on a painting retreat? Share your experience and suggestions with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Here are some more posts about artists and artsy traveling in Tuscany:
Put Copenhagen on your list of must-see European cities. It’s small enough to tour in a few days and large enough to reward a longer stay.
I recently stayed for eight nights in Copenhagen while my husband and partner-in-travel Gregg Simpson had an exhibition of his paintings at Galleri Bredgade 22 close to the picturesque Nyhavn area of the city.
I could have easily filled another eight days. Even so, I was able to pack a lot into the time I had available.
This post highlights my top fifteen sites and experiences.
Get Your Bearings
Before starting, check the map below. Most of my suggested sites in Copenhagen city itself are within walking distance of each other. The last four sites are outside Copenhagen and easily accessible by train.
The first item on my list isn’t a site but rather the card you’ll need to tour most of the rest of my recommendations. The Copenhagen Card is truly a bargain. With it, you can get into just about every museum and notable site in the city and use it on all the subways, busses, and trains in the Capital Region (a very large swathe of land that includes Copenhagen and most sites within an hour train ride).
You can purchase the Copenhagen Card for varying lengths. I purchased a five-day card which was perfect and allowed me to see almost everything I wanted to explore.
To find out if it’s worth your while to purchase a Copenhagen Card, choose the sites and museums you want to visit, check their prices online, and then compare them with the cost of the card. I pretty much guarantee you’ll find that the Copenhagen Card will be worth its price.
Click the image below to purchase the Copenhagen card.
#2: Take a Bike Tour
A good idea is to take a bike tour on the first day or two you’re in Copenhagen. That way, you’ll get the “lay of the land” while also ticking off a few of the most touristy sites such as the Little Mermaid (you only need to see her once!), some of the parks, and Nyhavn.
I joined a small bike tour for a 90-minute joy ride through Copenhagen and loved every minute of it. Copenhagen is made for cycling. You have your own lanes and your own traffic lights, and everyone knows and obeys the rules.
Meeting the Copenhagen Bike Tour
I met the tour at the bike racks in Kongen Nytorv (#2 on the map above), the large square not far from where we were staying in Nyhavn (see my review of our fabulous apartment). Our guide showed us the basic hand signals for turning left and right and stopping, assigned each of us in the group of six people a large and sturdy bike, reviewed how to change gears, and then boom, we were off. Helmets? What helmets?
Meeting the bike tour in Kongens Nytorv near Nyhavn
Riding around Copenhagen on a bike makes you feel like a real Copenhager. Everyone cycles here–young and old. Even if you’re not much of a cyclist, or out of practice (as I was), you’ll have no trouble cycling in flat Copenhagen. I think I changed gears once to go up a very slight incline in the area near the Little Mermaid.
King’s Garden
We rode for about ten minutes to the King’s Garden (Kongens Have – #5 on the map), where our guide gave us a quick history of Denmark and Copenhagen. He was a font of knowledge. While you could rent a bike and explore Copenhagen on your own, I recommend taking a tour. You’ll learn a lot, and also get the chance to chat with some fellow travelers.
The King’s Garden includes an attractive castle surrounded by a moat and plenty of tree-lined paths. In September, locals were hanging out on the lawns enjoying the sunshine.
King’s Garden in Copenhagen
Nyboder
We rode next to Nyboder (#6 on the map), an area of historic row houses that housed sailors in the 18th century. Our guide shared interesting information about the hard life of sailors and their families back in the day.
Nyboder district of old houses in Copenhagen
We then checked out both of Copenhagen’s mermaids. To read about them, see #3 below.
Gefion Fountain
A highlight for me was hearing the story attached to the Gefion Fountain (#10 on the map), which we rode to after visiting with the mermaids. The fountain depicts the mythical story of the creation of the island of Zealand upon which Copenhagen is situated. According to legend, the Swedish king Gylfi promised Gefjun (a goddess) that she could have all the land she could plow in a night. Well, being a bit of a resourceful lass, Gefjun turned her four sons into oxen and plowed out a Zealand-shaped chunk of land which was then thrown into the Danish sea to become the Zealand we know today. She left behind a hole that is now Lake Mälaren in Sweden.
What a woman!
Gefion Fountain in Copenhagen
Royal Palace & Opera House
We rode to a location where we could see both Royal Palace (#14) and the fabulous modern opera house (#15) directly across the harbor. Our guide talked a lot about the many environmental innovations Denmark is pioneering, including exciting new ways of recycling trash and using wind energy. Denmark is an inspiration for the rest of the world.
He also talked about the royal family and Queen Margrethe II who was celebrating her 50-year jubilee in 2022. In fact, several celebrations were going on while we were in Copenhagen. Apparently, the royal family are very well liked in Denmark, the Queen in particular. One of her many accomplishments is illustrating The Lord of the Rings, much to the admiration of Tolkein himself.
Royal palace
Opera house
Nyhavn
The bike tour ended in Nyhavn (#1) where our guide provided us with plenty of interesting commentary about living in Copenhagen and the remarkable social success story that is Denmark. Yes, there are still problems, but overall, Denmark is having enviable success compared to most other countries when it comes to solving many of the 21st century’s most pressing social and environmental challenges.
In the photo below, you can see the building where we stayed. It’s the dark orange one between the brown and tan buildings to the right of the guide.
Our knowledgeable guide telling us about Nyhavn
You can choose from plenty of bike tours and even book a private tour. Here are some options:
#3: Check out BOTH Mermaids
Yes, there are two–the famous one in the harbor that is mobbed with tourists, and the not-so-famous one about ten minutes away. Called the Genetically Modified Mermaid (#7), the statue is blissfully lonely. When I visited with the bike tour (see above), we were the only people checking her out.
Her more conventionally depicted sister mermaid sits in the harbor and basks in the glow of a thousand cell phones. Getting a picture of her requires some judicious zooming in to avoid the crowds.
The bronze statue of the Little Mermaid (#9) by sculptor Edvard Eriksen is inspired by the 1837 fairy tale by beloved Danish author Hans Christian Andersen. The statue has reached iconic status worldwide and is a must-stop on every tour itinerary. It’s a pleasant place to pause for a few minutes to enjoy views of Copenhagen’s massive harbor.
Genetically modified mermaid
Famous mermaid
#4: Take Pictures in Nyhavn
We stayed in a beautiful two-bedroom apartment in Nyhavn (#1) and I’m so glad we did. The area was once very sketchy–think rough pubs and brothels–but after major renovations and rebranding, Nyhavn has become one of the most recognizable regions in all of Copenhagen. In fact, nowadays you’d be hard-pressed to find any tourist info about Denmark that didn’t include a picture of Nyhavn.
The colorful buildings, old ships, and numerous sidewalk cafes are irresistible. I spent quite a bit of time taking photographs at various times of day to capture the shifting light.
According to the guide on my bike tour (see above), the restaurants in Nyhavn are overly touristy and over-priced. He has a point. We ate at one and yes, it was on the pricy side, which is saying something in pricy Copenhagen. But the setting really can’t be beat, so at least stop at one of the sidewalk cafes to enjoy a drink and watch the world go by.
Here’s a selection of photos from different images and in different lights of what must be the world’s most photogenic harbor.
Nyhavn at sunset
Nyhavn on a windless day
Walking into Nyhavn
Dramatic clouds over Nyhavn
#5: Eat Smørbrød
This is not optional! When you visit Copenhagen, you have to eat several pieces of smørbrød. These hearty, open-faced sandwiches consist of rugbrod rye bread heaped up with a dizzying array of fresh and artfully displayed ingredients. Your biggest challenge will be deciding which smørbrød to choose.
They are surprisingly filling. I found that two or three were plenty for a good lunch. You’ll find smørbrød at many restaurants around Copenhagen and beyond. Also check out cafes in places outside Copenhagen where you’re likely to find less expensive but just as fabulous smørbrød. Here are two plates of smørbrød–one enjoyed in Nyhavn on our first day and the other for a lovely dinner in Tivoli Gardens.
Smørbrød for a snack
Smørbrød for dinner
#6: Tour the Design Museum
The Designmuseum Danmark (AKA the Danish Design Museum – #8) was the first museum we visited in Copenhagen and it set a high bar! It’s a wonderful place with interesting and gorgeously displayed exhibits and plenty of commentary in Danish and English. You could spend all day there and still want to come back for more.
Even if you’re not “into” design, carve some time out of your Copenhagen stay to visit the Design Museum. Everyone sits on chairs and uses cutlery–and both these things, along with a ton more items we use every day, are featured in the context of design. The museum tells the story of Danish design of everything from furniture to objects to textiles to cutlery to posters, and a lot more.
The many rooms in the Designmuseum Danmark are arranged around themed exhibitions. For the most up-to-date information about current exhibitions, see the museum’s website.
Display of modern furniture at the Danish Design Museum
Called the Nationalmuseet (#12), this major museum is also worth several hours of your time on even a short trip to Copenhagen. We particularly enjoyed the prehistory collection (once of the best-displayed and best-explained I’ve ever seen) and the large exhibition devoted to the Vikings. They were a busy lot, as you’ll find out.
Helmets in the Danish National Museum
The museum is quite vast. Go early in the morning when you have energy and pace yourself! What I enjoyed the most was the cleverness of the displays. Everything is presented so artfully, which is fitting for a country famed for its design chops. And fortunately, as with the Design Museum, all the displays are accompanied by excellent commentary in both Danish and English.
Tivoli Gardens (#11) is an amusement park right smack in the middle of downtown Copenhagen. It’s one of the sites included with the Copenhagen Card, which is a good thing because I don’t think it’s worth the fairly steep admission price. Mind you, we’re not into rides and midway games–both of which take up a fair chunk of the park.
That said, go in the early evening to stroll through the beautifully designed gardens and view the pavilions, have dinner at a restaurant overlooking one of the bodies of water, and then marvel at the fabled lights. It’s a beautiful place to spend an evening.
We enjoyed an excellent meal at a restaurant overlooking the pirate ship. The server kindly took our picture.
Dinner al fresco at Tivoli Gardens
After dinner, we checked out the famous pagoda, listened to the screamsof the people braving the rides, and then called it a night.
#9: Go to a Concert at the DR Koncerthuset
We love going to classical music concerts when we travel in Europe and so got tickets for a concert at the DR Koncerthuset (#13), an ultra-modern, acoustically stunning hall a short metro ride from the center of Copenhagen.
We had perfect seats close to the front and in line with the piano keyboard (always a priority for me!). The concert included a Rachmaninoff concerto that knocked our socks off.
As soon as you know when you’ll be visiting Copenhagen, check out what concerts are on and get tickets in advance. The DR Koncerthuset website is in English and Danish.
#10: Wander the Pedestrian Streets
Copenhagen was one of the first (if not the first) European city to designate certain streets in the center of the city as “pedestrians only” in the early 1960s. The main street is called Strøget (#4). At 1.1 km, it’s still one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets and stretches from City Hall Square to Kongens Nytorv. You’ll find a lot of stores lining both sides–both budget chains and designer shops.
I remember being amazed by the Strøget when I visited Copenhagen in 1970. I’d never seen a pedestrianized street like it. My mom and I spent several happy hours wandering up and down it, shopping for Danish souvenirs and eating smørbrød. The name Strøget also refers to several other streets in the area including Frederiksberggade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet and Østergade and Nytorv square, Gammeltorv Square and Amagertorv Square.
Strøget shopping street in Copenhagen
Take your time and explore the many streets in the area while soaking up the very Danish vibe.
#11: Eat Lakrids by Bülow
I had never heard of Lakrids and now I’m hooked! Fortunately for my waistline, they are not easy to find in Vancouver. However, the next time I visit Copenhagen, I’m stocking up.
What is Lakrids by Bülow? Only the most scrumptious, luscious, and luxurious licorice I’ve ever tasted. It is a premium brand with a premium price, but oh-so-worth-it for the licorice lover. The delectable balls come in a dizzying variety of colors and flavors. I only bought one tube and have regretted it ever since!
I discovered a beautiful display of Lakrids by Bülow in the very posh Magasin du Nord in an iconic building on the Kongens Nytorv, the central square very close to Nyhavn where we were staying.
Even if you’re not a licorice lover, go to the Magasin du Nord (#3), try a free sample of the licorice bites, and then check out the rest of the store.
The fashionable department store dates back to 1869 and covers five floors in addition to the basement that houses the food market. Here, you’ll find a fabulous selection of fresh and prepared food that reminded me of the Harrods food floor in London. It’s a great place to pick up ingredients for a meal if your accommodations have a kitchen.
I spent a fair bit of time exploring the household goods and posh Danish souvenirs (not the plastic variety sold in the souvenir shops, but the really nice, Danish design variety). Magasin du Nord is the place to pick up exquisitely designed candlesticks, platters, cutlery, Danish china, and the like. I could have spent a lot of money there! Actually, I did spend a lot of money there…
Exploring the Capital Region of Denmark
After enjoying Copenhagen, venture outside the city where you’ll find plenty to do and see. You’ll also still save money with the Copenhagen Card on both the transportation and at the sites themselves.
Here’s a map of the Capital Region of Denmark to orient yourself. Each of the four destinations listed is no more than 40 minutes by train from Copenhagen. If you have lots of energy, you could visit Hamlet’s Castle (Helsginor), the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art and Frederiksborg Castle in one full day and then reserve another day for the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde.
Venture outside Copenhagen to visit Kronborg Castle (#1 on the Danish Capital Region Map above) in Helsingor, about a 40-minute train ride north. Both the castle and the train fare are covered by the Copenhagen Card.
Kronborg Castle is the setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet, although Shakespeare never saw it. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the castle is worth a visit to tour its many rooms, learn about Danish history, and enjoy views over the water to Sweden from its narrow windows. Also spend time exploring the charming little town of Helsingor. Although there’s lots for the tourist to see, the town doesn’t feel touristy. It feels very, well, Danish.
Consider visiting the Louisiana Gallery of Modern Art (#3 on the map above) on the same day you visit Helsingor. The two places are very close to each other (with the Louisiana Gallery just south of Helsingor) and together make for a perfect day trip out of Copenhagen.
The Louisiana Museum is one of Europe’s most renowned museums of modern art. For me, the stars of the place are the outdoor sculptures artfully arranged in the magnificent natural setting overlooking the North Sea and Sweden. Go on a day when the weather is clear so you can fully appreciate the views.
Another good day trip out of Copenhagen is to Frederiksborg Castle (#2). It’s an enormous place, very atmospherically located in a large lake. You can even take a launch (cost covered by the Copenhagen Card!) from the little town of Frederiksborg to the castle (or take a bus from the train station). The castle itself is quite sumptuous and very large. Wear your walking shoes!
After touring the castle, spend some time in the landscaped gardens before returning to the charming little town of Frederiksborg for lunch.
On the little launch crossing the lake to Frederiksborg with the castle in the background
The town of Roskilde, about thirty minutes west of Copenhagen (train fare covered by the Copenhagen card!), is home to the Viking Ship Museum (#4). The town was once the capital of Denmark and fairly oozes history, particularly if you’re into Vikings (and who isn’t?).
Full disclosure–I didn’t get time to visit Roskilde on my recent trip to Copenhagen. However, it’s definitely on my list which is why it’s included in this post. The Viking Ship Museum is built around the five original Viking ships from Skuldelev that are part of a global story about ships, people, and things on voyages. The focus of the museum is to tell the story of how the Vikings changed the world with their ships.
For more information about the Viking Ship Museum, check out the website.
Copenhagen Tours
Check out Tiquets.com for good tours of Copenhagen and the surrounding area.
Copenhagen Walking Tours
GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Copenhagen!
Conclusion
Copenhagen is a gem of a city. It’s compact, clean, easy to navigate, and friendly. It doesn’t have a bustling, big-city vibe. Instead, it feels like a place where people are happy to live. If you want to hang out with a lot of very healthy-looking people who all seem to ride bikes and love the outdoors and you like great museums and artfully presented food, then Copenhagen should be your next European destination.
Have you visited Copenhagen? Share your suggestions in the comments below.
Finding accommodation in Copenhagen can be challenging if you’re on a budget. But if you have extra money to spare (and you’ll need it in Copenhagen), then you can easily rent a stylish apartment in an iconic location.
Copenhagen is a wonderful city to stay in for at least a week. Not only is there a lot to see and do, but there’s also great pleasure to be had just being in the city and becoming a temporary Dane.
Rent a bike or take a cycling tour, wander up and down the many pedestrian streets, stop for coffee and watch the world go by, and stroll along the harbor.
On my visit to Copenhagen, I stayed in two places–an apartment for a week and a hotel for one night. Both were great, with the edge going to the apartment, which was hands down one of the nicest and most comfy apartments we’ve ever stayed in during my many years of traveling in Europe.
The map below shows the location of the two places.
I chose to spend our week in Copenhagen in Nyhavn, the lively harbor area full of iconic, colorful houses and tons of outdoor cafes. I loved this location and never got tired of walking up and down the harbor taking pictures of the houses in every light.
Captivating Nyhavn in early evening
I booked an apartment through booking.com that exceeded our expectations. It was a two-bedroom apartment located in one of the colorful houses right on the harbor. To access it, we walked through two courtyards and then rode an elevator to the fifth (top) floor.
Passageway leading from the harbor to our courtyard
Building in which our apartment was located
The apartment was very stylishly decorated and included a full kitchen and a very large dining area. We also had a lovely view over the rooftops of Copenhagen.
Living area
Looking from the living area toward the large dining area; kitchen is on the left
One of the two bedrooms in the apartment
Colorful rooftops of Copenhagen seen from the bedroom
The price was fairly reasonable considering the location. Copenhagen is not a cheap place to stay, so expect to pay in excess of $300 USD a night. I felt that the apartment was well worth the cost and can recommend it whole-heartedly if you’re planning to spend a week in Copenhagen.
Staying at Phoenix Copenhagen
We had an extra night to spend in Copenhagen as a result of a last-minute itinerary change. Our beloved apartment was no longer available, so we moved around the corner to the stylishly upscale Phoenix Copenhagen.
If you’re looking for a hotel in the Nyhavn area, the Phoenix is a fine choice. It’s pretty high end price-wise and the room was a trifle cramped, but the staff were friendly and as mentioned, the location on Bredgade can’t be beat. The marble lobby was gorgeous and the restaurant downstairs served hearty food, particularly welcome on the cold and rainy night we stayed.
Lobby at Phoenix Copenhagen
We particularly liked Phoenix Copenhagen because it was across the street from the gallery in which Gregg was exhibiting the “Color of Dreams.” Here’s a look at the exhibition at Galleri Bredgade 22:
Facade of Galleri Bredgade 22 in Copenhagen
“The Color of Dreams” Exhibition at Galleri Bredgade 22
Paintings in the exhibition
View from the street of the exhibition
Other Accommodation Options in Copenhagen
Here are other options for places to stay in Copenhagen. If possible, choose a location near the center of the city. The Nyhavn area is ideal because it is within walking distance of just about everything you’ll want to see in this lovely, compact city.
Consider alloting time during your stay in Copenhagen for taking day trips. You’ll find plenty to see and do in the city to fill at least three days, but after that, it’s time to venture farther afield.
Your Copenhagen Card (see more below) is your best friend. Use it to take trains all over the greater Capital region and to visit some of Denmark’s premier castles.
The map below shows the locations of the three recommended day trips. You could possibly see all three in one day if you’re traveling by car, but that might be overkill!
I suggest taking just one trip a day so you have time to enjoy the locations and still get back to Copenhagen in time to take in one or two more local sights and then enjoy a leisurely dinner.
On the map below, #1 is the Copenhagen Hovedbanegården, aka the Central Station. You’ll be catching the trains from here.
Trip map created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android
Frederiksborg Castle
The largest Renaissance complex in the Nordic region is Frederiksborg Castle (#2 on the map above) in Hillerød, about 30 minutes outside Copenhagen by train.
The castle is one of the must-do day trips from Copenhagen, particularly if the weather is fine. Set in a lake and surrounded by gardens, the castle is extremely photogenic.
Carol arrives at Frederiksborg Castle during her day trip from Copenhagen
Walked over the bridge to the entrance to Frederiksborg Castle
Inside the castle is room after sumptuous room. Wear your walking shoes–it’s a big place!
I toured the castle fairly quickly because I wanted to get outside to view the castle from the lake. However, if you’re interested in Danish history, the castle could easily fill an hour or two of your time.
Here’s a selection of a few of the rooms and displays I wandered through.
One of many sumptuous royal apartments
An 18th-century footman is happy to pose for photos
Outside the castle, you can tour the gardens and then catch the cute little launch that goes from a dock near the castle across the lake to the town of Hillerød. The cost of the launch (along with the castle entrance and all busses and trains) is included with the marvelous Copenhagen Card.
Cost of the ferry across the lake is included with the Copenhagen card
On the launch across the lake at Frederiksborg Castle
As I was crossing the lake, the sun came out with magical results.
Fredericksborg Castle
Hillerød
For your day trip to Frederiksborg Castle, you’ll catch the train from Copenhagen to Hillerød and then from the station, take a bus or walk to the castle.
Many of the people getting off the train are also tourists and heading for the castle, so it’s pretty easy to just follow the crowd to the bus stop. If in doubt, ask someone who looks like a local. I never encountered anyone in Denmark who did not speak excellent English.
After touring the castle, you can either take the bus back to Hillerød or, like I did, catch the launch across the lake. It docks at Hillerød.
Wander through the attractive little town, grab a coffee in the central square, browse a few shops, and then walk to the train station for the journey back to Copenhagen. The entire trip to the castle and Hillerød lasts only a few hours unless you are a super-fan and want to examine every part of the castle open to the public and also walk the miles of pathways in the formal gardens.
The charming town of Hillerød with the castle across the lake
Signposts in Hillerød leading me back to the station
Frederiksborg Castle Practical Information
Frederiksborg Castle is open every day throughout the year from 10:00 to 17:00 April to October and 11:00 to 15:00 November to March. Admission is 90 DKK for adults, but you can use your Copenhagen Card (see below for details). The museum is located in Hillerød, a 40-minute ride on S-train line A from Copenhagen. From Hillerød Station you can walk to the castle (View the route here) or take the local busses 301 (direction: Ullerød) or 302 (direction: Sophienlund) and get off at the stop “Frederiksborg Slot”.
Kronborg Castle
Located on the sound between Sweden and Denmark about 40 minutes north of Copenhagen, Kronborg Castle (#3 on the map above) and the charming town of Helsingor are both great choices for a day trip from Copenhagen.
In fact, if you only have time for one of the three day trips presented in this post, I’d choose Kronborg. While the castle itself is not as large and imposing as Frederiksborg Castle, the town of Helsingor has more to offer.
Also, if you’re a Hamlet fan, then you have to visit Kronborg Castle, which was the setting for Shakespeare’s play. It’s easy to imagine Prince Hamlet wandering through the lofty halls of the castle and looking out to sea, brooding and plotting revenge.
If you have a car, you can even zip across on the ferry to Helsingborg in Sweden and from there carry on north to Gothenburg and even Stockholm.
Touring Kronborg Castle
Kronborg Castle towers above the narrow sound between the coasts of Denmark and Sweden. It’s a Renaissance castle complete with spires and towers, and is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Courtyard instide Kronborg Castle
Inside the castle are rooms full of period furnishings. The prevailing feeling is a bit starker than Frederiksborg Castle. It’s worth touring, but doesn’t require a lot of time.
Bedroom in Kronborg Castle
Costumed guide talks about food at Kronborg Castle
The views from the castle over the sound to Sweden on the far shore are lovely on a clear day. Check out the clouds!
View from Kronborg Castle toward Sweden
Kronborg Castle Practical Information
Kronborg Castle is open daily from 10:00 to 17:00 May to October and from 11:00 to 15:00 November to April. Admission is 125 DKK for adults, but you can use your Copenhagen Card (see below for details). The castle is located in Helsingør, a 40-minute train ride from Copenhagen. From the station, you can walk about ten minutes to the castle.
Helsingør
I enjoyed wandering around Helsingør. It’s not at all touristy; the vast majority of the people out soaking up the sunny September day were locals. The harbor area with its ships and Maritime Museum are worth lingering in during your day trip from Copenhagen.
Lively harbor with tall ships in Helsingør
Also view murals on buildings throughout the town. I particularly enjoyed seeing the one of Hamlet holding Yorick’s skull.
Colorful mural of Helsingør in the 16th century
Close-up of Hamlet in the prow of a ship in a mural
I stopped for lunch on a pedestrian street full of outdoor cafes and enjoyed three scrumptious Smørrebrød – open-faced sandwiches, along with a strong and satisfying Danish beer.
As in many restaurants that serve Smørrebrød, I was invited to go check out a mouth-watering display of the tasty sandwiches and then choose the number and kind I wanted. Each of the three I chose was a winner.
Smørrebrød for lunch in Helsingør
I happened to arrive in Helsingør when locals were celebrating the Golden Jubilee of Queen Margrethe. There were lots of Danish flags and a parade!
Danes celebrating the Golden Jubilee of the Queen
Parade for the Golden Jubilee in Helsingør
A good sightseeing strategy if you want to see both Kronborg Castle and the Louisiana Museum of Art on a day trip from Copenhagen is to do both on the same day. They are quite close together in the same geographical area (north of Copenhagen). In fact, you take the same train from Copenhagen. Go to Kronborg Castle first and then backtrack to the Louisiana Museum or go the other way around. Bear in mind that you’ll find more and cheaper lunch options in Helsignor. At the Louisiana Museum, you only have the fancy restaurant at the museum (excellent food but not cheap!).
Frederiksborg & Kronborg Day Tours
You can choose to take a guided day trip from Copenhagen that includes both Frederiksborg Castle and Kronborg Castle. This tour also goes to Roskilde where you’ll tour the Viking Ship Museum.
The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (#4 on the map) is about a 30-minute train ride north of Copenhagen and is world-renowned as one of Europe’s best modern art museums.
I’ll confess that I found the exhibitions a tad underwhelming. However, the setting of the museum on the North Sea and the many outdoor sculptures are fabulous and well worth the trip.
Founded by Knud W. Jensen to house Danish modern art, the museum opened in 1958. Within a few years, the focus shifted from featuring predominantly Danish art to becoming an international museum that featured internationally renowned artists.
Check what exhibitions are on, but even if they don’t appeal, visit the museum anyway. It makes for a lovely morning out from Copenhagen. You reach it by train (covered by the Copenhagen Card) followed by a pleasant 20-minute stroll along a suburban road to the museum.
After visiting the exhibitions, head outside where the real stars of the museum are located. Here’s a selection of sculptures dotted all around the large property.
View toward Sweden
Stone spheres in the sculpture garden
Captivating mobile overlooking the Sound
Cool cutout sculpture
Granite sculpture
Is it a Miro?
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art Practical Information
The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is located in Humlebæk about 30 minutes north of Copenhagen. Catch the train from the main train station and then walk about twenty minutes to the museum. If you have a car, you can drive there. Ample parking is provided. The museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 22:00 and Saturday and Sunday from 11:00 to 18:00 (closed Monday) and covered by the Copenhagen Card.
Purchase the Copenhagen Card
Not all tourist cards are great value, but the Copenhagen Card is definitely worth purchasing. It covers so much of what you’ll want to see in Copenhagen, including all three of the sites and all the transportation options covered in this post, dozens museums (there are a LOT of museums in Copenhagen), and attractions such as Tivoli Gardens (worth a visit to see the lights in the evening). You can use the Copenhagen Card on the local subways. It truly is a bargain and a major time saver.
I almost never buy city cards, but I’m very glad I purchased the Copenhagen Card. Having it saved me loads of time, made sightseeing a pleasure, and took all the stress out of riding public transit. It’s a winner!
Click the image below to purchase the Copenhagen card.
Here are some options for tickets and tours purchased through Tiqets.com:
Where to Stay in Copenhagen
If you’re looking for lots of space in the atmospheric Nyhavn area, you can’t go wrong with this two-bedroom apartment located in one of the colorful houses right on the harbor.
Another good option is the stylishly upscale Phoenix Copenhagen, also in the Nyhavn area. The hotel is pretty high end price-wise, but the staff are friendly, the marble lobby is gorgeous and the restaurant downstairs serves hearty food, particularly welcome on the cold and rainy night I stayed.
Conclusion
Have you taken day trips from Copenhagen? Which ones did you visit and recommend? Please share in the comments below.
Here are more posts about awesome museums to visit in England and Europe:
The best three museums in Copenhagen are all world-class and worth a trip to Denmark’s fabulous capital city just to visit them.
There are several must-sees, but for this post, I focus on my three favorites: the Design Museum, the Danish National Museum, and the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, which is about thirty minutes north of Copenhagen (super easy to get to).
Armed with a Copenhagen Card, I ventured forth into the bustling streets of Copenhagen for three amazing Artsy Traveler experiences.
Highlights at a Glance
Exploring the Magic of Form exhibition at the Design Museum
Viewing the Viking exhibition at the Danish National Museum
Wandering around the outdoor sculptures at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
The map below shows the location of the three museums described in this post: The Design Museum (#1), the Danish National Museum (#2) and the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (#3).
Called the Designmuseum Danmark, this museum is absolutely stunning (see #1 on the map above).
Even if you’ve never in your life thought about design, put this museum on your list of must-sees while in Copenhagen. It tells the story of Danish design in room after room of artful displays of everything from furniture to objects to textiles to cutlery to posters, and a lot more.
I never wanted to leave, although after my visit, I did enjoy relaxing in the lovely courtyard and drinking lattes served by an enthusiastic young man. He was so pleased when we raved to him about how much we loved the museum.
Breezy and relaxing outdoor area at the Designmuseum Danmark
Gregg relaxing after touring the Designmuseum Danmark
The many rooms in the Designmuseum Danmark are arranged around themed exhibitions that run for quite a long time. For the most up-to-date information about current exhibitions, check the museum’s website.
Each display is accompanied by informative explanations in both Danish and English. Here’s an overview of the exhibitions I saw at the Designmuseum Danmark.
The Future is Present
The first exhibition we entered explored many of the ways in which designers around the world are finding solutions to challenges such as climate change, refugee flows, pandemics, and more.
How do we live together in communities, relate to each other, and interact with our environments? And what role does design play?
The many displays are both beautiful and thought-provoking. One of my favorites is this display of biodegradable urns. The pendant attached to the urn is planted so that loved ones can enjoy “the growing flowers and a tree in a place for conversation and remembrance.”
Biodegradable urns – a way to remember loved ones long after their passing
Wonder
This exhibition featured objects from some of the Designmuseum’s many collections. The exhibition tells the story of how a thing becomes an object in a private collection or in a museum. Each display is imaginatively presented and accompanied by excellent commentary.
You could spend a lot of time in the Designmuseum Danmark!
Here’s a sampling of some of the objects in the Wonder exhibition.
Gorgeously designed chair from the 19th CenturyArt nouveau necklace
The Magic of Form
Our favorite exhibition was The Magic of Form that took us on a fabulous journey through Danish design history. As anyone who has seen a piece of Danish modern furniture knows, Denmark and design go hand in hand.
The Danes have a knack for creating marvelously designed furniture that is both beautiful and practical.
The exhibition is massive–room after room of objects and pieces of furniture that follow the historical development of Danish design from around 1900 to the present. Every time I entered a new room, I gasped in wonder.
Not only were the objects themselves stunning, but also the way in which they were presented raised my experience of museum display techniques to new heights.
Here’s a selection of a few of the rooms and displays I wandered through.
Danish Modern chairs imaginatively displayed
Vases, a modern light fixture, and an abstract painting
Chock full of color and form
Danish Modern run amok
Ultra modern Danish Modern chic
Colorful sculpture
Other Exhibitions
When I toured the Designmuseum Danmark, I also saw two other exhibitions. The Table, Cover Thyself exhibition of plates and cultlery showed a myriad selection of table settings including plates, cutlery, tureens, figurines, and more. I particularly loved these two jugs.
Two beautifully designed coffee jugs
The Powerful Patterns exhibition explored patterns as an artform and included a wealth of textiles and costumes, including this beautiful dress.
Dress with exquisite embroidery
The Designmuseum Danmark was one of the many highlights of my week in Copenhagen. I can hardly wait to return to see what new exhibitions are being featured.
And to top off my visit, I discovered that even a trip to the ladies room was fraught with design. Here’s what I saw when I look up from where I was, um, sitting:
Chair suspended over a toilet stall at the Designmuseum Danmark
The Danes have a sense of humor for sure!
Design Museum Practical Information
The Designmuseum Danmark is open from 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday (closed Monday). Admission is 130 DKK for adults, but you can use your Copenhagen Card (see below for details). The museum is located at Bredgade 68 and makes a great stop on the way to see the Little Mermaid in the Copenhagen harbor.
The National Museum of Denmark
The Nationalmuseet (#2 on the map at the top of this post) is another major museum in which you could get lost for hours. In fact, I ran out of steam after touring the awesome collection of prehistory and Viking artifacts and didn’t see all the museum has to offer.
All the more reason to return!
But even if you, like me, only manage to tour half the museum, make sure it’s the half that includes the Danish prehistory and Viking collections. Each display is cleverly mounted and includes interesting commentary in Danish and English.
Danish Prehistory Collection
I have a soft spot for prehistory museums and monuments, and visit them whenever I can. Check out my post on seven of my fave prehistory spots in Europe. Given my predelictions, I naturally made a beeline for the Danish Prehistory collection.
What a treasure trove!
The exhibition features objects made prior to 1050 AD and extending way, way back into the misty mists of time (like 6000 BCE!) and includes unique archaeological treasures like the Trundholm Chariot of the Sun, the Egtved girl’s grave, the Gundestrup cauldron, the Hoby tomb, and more.
Twenty-four rooms arranged in a large square enclosing the gardens take you from the earliest years up to the Viking era.
I was surprised and enthralled by the age of many of the prehistoric objects in the first several rooms. A highlight is the skeleton of a massive bull elk that perished in a bog over 8500 years ago.
The Tåderup Elk at the Danish National Museum
Here are two of my favorite displays, but there were many more. You could spend a very long time in the Danish prehistory rooms.
Polished figures from prehistoric grave sites
Viksø helmets from the Bronze Age
Viking Exhibition
Eventually, you’ll arrive at the Viking exhibition to be confronted by a model of a full-size Viking ship (and it’s really big!). The ship dominates the large room that includes displays that trace Denmark’s huge contribution to world history.
At one time, Vikings controlled vast swathes of Europe, extending all the way to North America. A wall-size map at the beginning of the exhibition shows how far their influence extended.
Sartorial elegance of the Vikings; a portion of the ship model is in the background
The Danes are very proud of their Viking heritage, as evidenced by the care they’ve taken to mount such a spectacular exhibition.
The Raid Experience
Included in the Viking exhibition is a new multi-media experience called “The Raid” that invites guests to “hop aboard and join the Vikings on an adventurous raid.”
“The Raid” isn’t actually a ride. You walk through a series of rooms, stopping in each to watch a 360-degree projection accompanied by commentary in English. The projections tell the exciting story of Björn Ironside, the legendary Viking who led 62 ships on an ill-fated journey to Rome.
Along the way, they plunder and pillage as Vikings are wont to do, but never actually make it to Rome. They do make it into the Mediterranean, however. Unfortunately, on their way out again, they are almost destroyed by large firebombs raining down upon them from the cliffs above the Strait of Gibraltar.
Poor Bjorn perishes and very few ships make it back to Denmark. So ends Bjorn’s raid, only to be revived 1500-odd years later for tourists to wonder at.
Poster for “The Raid” at the Danish National Museum
What Else to See at the National Museum
The museum includes exhibitions from Denmark’s Middle Ages and Renaissance, the histories of Denmark, an antique collection, the Children’s Museum, Voices from the Colonies, and a Coin and Medal Collection in addition to special exhibitions.
Everything is state-of-the-art, a real testament to recent advances in museumology.
I need to go back!
On the way to the National Museum of Denmark
National Museum of Denmark Practical Information
The National Museum of Denmark is located in the Prince’s Palace at Ny Vestergade 10. It’s within walking distance from Nyhavn where I recommend you stay. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00 (closed Monday) and covered by the Copenhagen Card.
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (#3 on the map at the top of this post) is about a 30-minute train ride north of Copenhagen. It’s world-renowned as one of Europe’s best modern art museums, and therefore a must-visit for the Artsy Traveler!
The setting of the museum on the North Sea and the many outdoor sculptures are fabulous and well worth the trip.
The food in the restaurant overlooking the water is also excellent!
Founded by Knud W. Jensen to house Danish modern art, the museum opened in 1958. Within a few years, the focus shifted from featuring predominantly Danish art to becoming an international museum that showcased internationally renowned artists.
Check what exhibitions are on, but even if they don’t appeal, visit the museum anyway. It makes for a lovely morning out from Copenhagen. You reach it by train (covered by the Copenhagen Card) followed by a pleasant 20-minute stroll along a suburban road to the museum.
After visiting the exhibitions, head outside where the real stars of the museum are located. Here’s a selection of sculptures dotted all around the large property.
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art Practical Information
The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is located in Humlebæk about 30 minutes north of Copenhagen. Catch the train from the main train station and then walk about twenty minutes to the museum. If you have a car, you can drive there. Ample parking is provided. The museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 22:00 and Saturday and Sunday from 11:00 to 18:00 (closed Monday) and covered by the Copenhagen Card.
Purchase the Copenhagen Card
Not all tourist cards are great value, but the Copenhagen Card is definitely worth purchasing. It covers so much of what you’ll want to see in Copenhagen, including all three of the museums covered in this post along with dozens more museums (there are a LOT of museums in Copenhagen), attractions such as Tivoli Gardens (worth a visit to see the lights in the evening), and all your transportation in and around Copenhagen.
You can use it on the local subways and on trains that go farther afield to popular destinations such as Frederiksburg Castle, Kronburg Castle, and the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. It truly is a bargain and a major time-saver.
I almost never buy city cards, but I’m very glad I purchased the Copenhagen Card. Having it saved me loads of time, made sightseeing a pleasure, and took all the stress out of riding public transit. It’s a winner!
Click the image below to purchase the Copenhagen card.
Copenhagen Tours & Tickets
Check out more tours and things to do in marvelous Copenhagen with Get Your Guide.
You can also purchase tickets directly through Tiqets.com
Copenhagen Walking Tours
GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Copenhagen!
Where to Stay in Copenhagen
If you’re looking for lots of space in the atmospheric Nyhavn area, you can’t go wrong with this two-bedroom apartment located in one of the colorful houses right on the harbor.
Another good option is the stylishly upscale Phoenix Copenhagen, also in the Nyhavn area. The hotel is pretty high end price-wise, but the staff are friendly, the marble lobby is gorgeous and the restaurant downstairs serves hearty food, particularly welcome on the cold and rainy night I stayed.
Conclusion
Have you visited museums in Copenhagen? Which ones did you visit and recommend? Please share in the comments below.
If you love art and you’re London-bound, than you must visit the National Gallery.
I love this place and pop in every chance I get. The National Gallery in London is small enough to enjoy in a few hours without getting exhausted (unlike the Louvre in Paris), and yet big enough to include an astonishing collection of masterpieces from the Middle Ages to the Impressionists.
Also, London’s National Gallery is free, which is amazing considering that every other major art museum in Europe charges at least 20 to 30 Euros.
Five Favorites at a Glance
Here are my top five favorites pieces at the National Gallery (and it was a tough choice)!
On my latest trip to London, I dropped by the National Gallery fairly late in the day and so only had an hour to spend before it closed. An hour is not enough, but if it’s all you have, you won’t be disappointed.
I wandered in a trance from room to room, eyes tearing up as every turn brought so many favorites before me. The National Gallery includes an impressive number of western art’s biggest biggies.
In this post, I showcase what I consider the must-see paintings at the National Gallery–the best of the best if you will.
Note that I’ve downloaded images from the National Gallery’s website, which allows display of its images for personal use, including blogs. I was glad to discover this because my own photographs are sometimes a bit crooked and ill-lit! Thank you, National Gallery.
Medieval Period at the National Gallery
The National Gallery’s medieval collection includes pieces by most of the major painters, including Giotto, Duccio, Lorenzetti, and Lippi.
One of the reasons why I love medieval Italian painting is because of how the artists depicted buildings. While perspective is generally lacking, the artists of this period captured the essence of medieval towns as a hodgepodge of arches and towers built at varying angles and heights.
The arrangements communicate the feeling of a medieval town, rather than just a realistic representation, that still rings true today when you visit places like Siena and San Gimignano in Tuscany.
The Healing of the Man Born Blind by Duccio
I chose this painting because of how Duccio di Buoninsegna depicted the buildings behind the people. I love how the pastel colors of the buildings in the background contrast with the more vibrant robes of the central figures.
This painting is a small panel–one of 54 minutely detailed narrative scenes that was included in Duccio’s Maestà.
A massive work, Maestà is considered one of the most ambitious altarpieces ever created. Most of the rest of the altarpiece is on display in the Museo dell’opera del Duomo in Siena.
Read about it in my post about top cathedrals in Europe in which I include Siena Cathedral adjacent to the Museo. If you’re in Siena, the Museo dell’opera del Duomo (the museum of the cathedral) is a must-see.
When the Maestà was completed in 1311, it was carried through the streets of Siena. One of the characters in my novel The Towers of Tuscany reminiscences about seeing the procession when she was a young girl.
Duccio The Healing of the Man born Blind 1307/8-11 Egg tempera on wood, 45.1 x 46.7 cm Bought, 1883 NG1140 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1140
A Group of Four Poor Clares by Ambrogio Lorenzetti
Lorenzetti was active in Siena during the 1300s and likely died of the plague that hit Siena in 1348. I really like his work and so was delighted to discover this piece in the National Gallery.
It’s a fragment of a fresco that was discovered under whitewash in 1855. I love the realism of the faces and their pensive expressions.
Ambrogio Lorenzetti A Group of Four Poor Clares possibly about 1336-40 Fresco with areas of secco, 70.4 × 63.4 cm Bought, 1878 NG1147 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1147
Italian Renaissance at the National Gallery
So many masterpieces, so little time! Take your time when you get to the rooms containing some of the world’s most famous artists from the Italian Renaissance, most notably Leonardo da Vinci and Botticelli. Have a seat and soak up the Renaissance vibe.
The Burlington House Cartoon by Leonardo da Vinci
I remember the first time I saw this piece when I was student at Reading University in the 1970s. Reading was only 40 minutes by train from London so I often went up to enjoy the art museums.
The Burlington House Cartoon is a large drawing made in preparation for a painting and is the only surviving large-scale drawing done by da Vinci.
I like the contrast of rough and finished in the drawing. Some parts, such as the face of Mary, are beautifully detailed and evocative while others, such as the hand of Saint Anne (Mary’s mother) pointing heavenward, are barely sketched in.
Exhibited in a small, dimly lit room, the piece just glows.
Leonardo da Vinci The Burlington House Cartoon about 1499-1500 Charcoal (and wash?) heightened with white chalk on paper, mounted on canvas, 141.5 x 104.6 cm Purchased with a special grant and contributions from the Art Fund, The Pilgrim Trust, and through a public appeal organised by the Art Fund, 1962 NG6337 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6337
Virgin of the Rocks by Leonardo daVinci
This beautiful painting is one of the most famous in the National Gallery, and a rare example of one of da Vinci’s large-scale paintings.
The techniques he used were ground-breaking at the time, but I think the enduring appeal of the work is because of the expression on the Virgin Mary’s face.
She looks a bit careworn and tired–the image of a mother responsible for the children in her care. Her outstretched hand almost seems to come out of the painting to calm a fretful child.
Leonardo da Vinci, The Virgin of the Rocks, about 1491/2-9 and 1506-8, Oil on poplar, thinned and cradled, 189.5 x 120 cm, Bought, 1880, NG1093, https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1093
Venus and Mars by Sandro Botticelli
I’ve been a fan of Botticelli’s work since discovering it while taking a first-year History of Art course in 1974.
I’d forgotten that Venus and Mars–one of Botticelli’s most famous paintings–is in the National Gallery, and gasped out loud when I entered the roomful of Botticellis. Fortunately, no one noticed.
There’s so much to love about this painting! The look on Venus’s face as she coolly regards the blissed- out Mars is priceless. She’s clearly not all that impressed!
And then there are the four mischievious nymphs trying to wake up Mars. One of them is even wearing his helmet.
Sandro Botticelli Venus and Mars about 1485 Tempera and oil on poplar, 69.2 x 173.4 cm Bought, 1874 NG915 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG915
Flemish Masterpieces at the National Gallery
The National Gallery is particularly well endowed with masterpieces from the northern Renaissance. You’ll find several pieces by Rembrandt, two gems by Vermeer, and a famous van Dyck, among many others.
The Arnolfini Portrait by Jan van Eyck
This portrait of Italian merchant Giovanni di Nicolao di Arnolfini and his wife is one of the most famous paintings in the National Gallery, and is considered one of the most famous and intriguing paintings in the world.
There are so many details to examine, and all have significance. For more information about the painting (which was completed in 1434) and why it’s considered so great, check out this analysis on YouTube.
Jan van Eyck The Arnolfini Portrait 1434 Oil on oak, 82.2 x 60 cm Bought, 1842 NG186 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG186
A Woman Bathing in a Stream by Rembrandt
This is such a tender, beautiful painting by Rembrandt, and a bit of a change from his many portraits and self-portraits.
The woman may be Hendrickje Stoffels, who came into Rembrandt’s household to look after his infant son after his first wife, Saskia, died. Hendrickje and Rembrandt became lovers but were unable to marry.
There is a universality about the intimate moment caught in the painting that resonates with anyone who has ever taken off their shoes on a hot day to wade in a cool stream.
Rembrandt A Woman bathing in a Stream (Hendrickje Stoffels?) 1654 Oil on oak, 61.8 x 47 cm Holwell Carr Bequest, 1831 NG54 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG54
A Young Woman Seated at a Virginal by Johannes Vermeer
The word exquisite always come to mind when I look at a painting by Vermeer.
Detailed and delicate, this painting shows us a moment in time. The young girl is just about to play the virginal, but someone or something has distracted her. Whatever it is, she doesn’t look too thrilled.
One of the ways to appreciate just why Vermeer is considered so great is to look at paintings by his contemporaries. Most depict similar subjects, but you can tell right away that there’s something different about the Vermeers.
The brushwork is finer, the light more skillfully depicted, the backgrounds more perfectly rendered. Vermeer didn’t paint many pieces during his lifetime, but what he did paint was pretty amazing.
Johannes Vermeer A Young Woman seated at a Virginal about 1670-2 Oil on canvas, 51.5 x 45.5 cm Salting Bequest, 1910 NG2568 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG2568
ABoy and A Girl with a Cat and an Eel by Judith Leyster
I was super excited to come across this painting by Judith Leyster, who has been getting more recognition in recent years. The boy and the girl are definitely up to no good!
Judith Leyster A Boy and a Girl with a Cat and an Eel about 1635 Oil on oak, 59.4 × 48.8 cm Bequeathed by C.F. Leach, 1943 NG5417 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG5417
The Four Elements: Air, Earth, Fire, Water by Joachim Beuckelaer
I had never seen these paintings before. They are not particularly famous, but they are interesting. I couldn’t stop looking at them.
Each painting depicts food according to its relationship to one of the four elements.
In the Air painting, birds are being plucked and sold. Some impressive-looking vegetables are on display in the Earth painting. The Fire painting depicts game being butchered and roasted, and finally many different varieties of fish are ready for market in the Water painting.
The expressions on the faces of the people in the paintings are blank and dour. No one looks like they are enjoying themselves!
But the colors and textures of the foods are so incredibly real. They almost look like they are about to spill out of the paintings onto the floor of the gallery.
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Air 1570 Oil on canvas, 158 × 216 cm Bought, 2001 NG6587 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6587Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Earth 1569 Oil on canvas, 158 × 215.4 cm Bought, 2001 NG6585 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6585Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Fire 1570 Oil on canvas, 158.2 × 215.4 cm Bought, 2001 NG6588 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6588Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Water 1569 Oil on canvas, 158.1 × 214.9 cm Bought, 2001 NG6586 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6586
Baroque Paintings at the National Gallery
Boy Bitten by a Lizard by Caravaggio
In a room full of great paintings, I was instantly drawn to this small painting by Caravaggio of a boy being bitten by a lizard.
The expression on his face is so real and so relatable. The painting was completed in Rome in the mid-1590s and was considered innovative for the time. Apparently, it was unusual for a late-16th-century painting to show such a moment of action.
Caravaggio, however, wasn’t worried about following artistic conventions. He painted directly on the canvas from live models
Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio Boy bitten by a Lizard about 1594-5 Oil on canvas, 66 x 49.5 cm Bought with the aid of a contribution from the J. Paul Getty Jr Endowment Fund, 1986 NG6504 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6504
British Painting at the National Gallery
Room 34 at the National Gallery contains some of the most beloved paintings by British artists, including William Turner and John Constable (two of my faves).
The Fighting Temeraire by William Turner
My father bought a print of this painting when he first visited London in the 1960s. It was probably the first real painting I’d ever seen, and I remember loving to look at it when I was a child.
When I saw it again in the National Gallery, I couldn’t help feeling emotional since my father has been gone for several years now and my mother passed quite recently.
Turner’s painting shows the final journey of the Temeraire, a warship that had played a distinguished role in the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, but by 1838 was ready for the scrap heap.
It’s a poignant scene in its depiction of the age of sail giving way to the age of steam. Turner, of course, was most famous for his depiction of light, which is on full display in the magnificent sunset depicted in the painting.
The painting is one of Turner’s most famous and duly celebrated, but for me it will always remind me of my childhood home.
Joseph Mallord William Turner The Fighting Temeraire 1839 Oil on canvas, 90.7 x 121.6 cm Turner Bequest, 1856 NG524 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG524
The Hay Wain by John Constable
This bucolic painting by John Constable is one of the most famous British painting. It depicts the millpond at Flatford on the River Stour about about a mile from Constable’s birthplace at East Bergholt, Suffolk.
it really is quintessentially English–an idealized view of the countryside and a time long past. And look at the sky! Constable was a master of clouds.
John Constable, The Hay Wain, 1821, Oil on canvas, 130.2 x 185.4 cm, Presented by Henry Vaughan, 1886, NG1207, https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1207
Impressionists and Post-Impressionists at the National Gallery
The rooms displaying paintings by the Impressionists and post-Impressionists are generally mobbed at the National Gallery. So many famous pieces are included!
Stand in the middle of one of the rooms and rotate slowly. If you’re a fan of this era and style of art, you’ll likely recognize just about every piece in the room, from the iconic Sunflowers by van Gogh to the massive painting of The Bathers by Seurat and the sublime waterlilies by Monet.
I’d forgotten just how rich the National Gallery’s collection of French Impressionists is and spent my first few minutes in the rooms exclaiming (to myself), they have that? and that one? oh, my, and that one too?This is incredible!
I had to sit down a few times just to collect myself. I’ve picked out four of my favorites (but it was a tough choice).
Waterlilies by Monet
This luscious painting dominates one entire wall and is hard to get a full-on look at thanks to the throngs of like-minded visitors standing in front of it.
This piece is one that was not included in the collection of large waterlily paintings in Musėe de l’Orangerie in Paris (check out my round-up of Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris for more about the Monets in the Orangerie).
The waterlily paintings in the Orangerie include details of trees and foliage that anchor the viewer and give them a sense of location. But this painting in the National Gallery is completely free-flowing.
You have no idea where in the pond you are; you’re immersed in a shimmering world of greens and pinks and purples. No photograph can do it justice; you need to stand in front of the real thing and just drink it in.
Claude Monet Water-Lilies after 1916 Oil on canvas, 200.7 x 426.7 cm Bought, 1963 NG6343 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6343
Sunflowers by Vincent van Gogh
This cheerful painting of sunflowers exuberantly clumped together in a plain vase signed by “Vincent” is probably the most famous of van Gogh’s works. It appears on a dizzying array of merchandise in the gift shop, from mugs to cards to t-shirts to umbrellas.
Why is this painting so famous? I think because it looks like sunshine on canvas. The varying shades of yellow and gold that van Gogh uses perfectly capture the feeling of a hot day in late summer when some sunflowers are still in bloom, others have just passed their peak and are starting to wilt, and still others have lost their petals completely.
This version of Sunflowers is one of five, the other four being on display in art museums around the world including the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam (always worth a visit!).
Apparently, van Gogh made the paintings to decorate his house in Arles in preparation for a visit from fellow artist Paul Gauguin.
Vincent van Gogh Sunflowers 1888 Oil on canvas, 92.1 x 73 cm Bought, Courtauld Fund, 1924 NG3863 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG3863
Bathers at Asnières by Georges Seurat
The painting depicts regular people enjoying a day off on the banks of the Seine, the factories they work in visible in the distance, their focus on the feel of warm grass and cool water.
It’s a snapshot in time. Each person is immersed in his own thoughts; each is alone, the exhaustion of a week at work still heavy on their shoulders even on their day off.
This massive painting is famous for its use of pointillism and was Seurat’s first major composition. He painted it at the age of 24 to make his mark at the official Salon in the spring of 1884. Unfortunately, the painting was rejected!
Georges Seurat Bathers at Asnières 1884 Oil on canvas, 201 × 300 cm Bought, Courtauld Fund, 1924 NG3908 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG3908
Surprised! by Rousseau
This painting by Rousseau was new to me, and I just loved it!
Look at the expression on the tiger’s face! Has he been frightened by the flashes of lightning and the sudden wind blowing the jungle foliage all over the place? Who knows? But it’s such a wonderfully lush moment.
Surprised! was the first of about 20 jungle paintings that Rousseau produced. His jungles are entirely imaginary; Rousseau never left France.
He was an amateur artist who faced a fair bit of ridicule from the art establishment, but now Rousseau is considered a pioneer of “naïve art.”
Henri Rousseau Surprised! 1891 Oil on canvas, 129.8 x 161.9 cm Bought, with the aid of a substantial donation from the Hon. Walter H. Annenberg, 1972 NG6421 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6421
Visiting the National Gallery
The National Gallery is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm and on Fridays until 9 pm. It’s located on Trafalgar Square in central London and entry is free, although donations are welcomed.
To get to the National Gallery, hop on the tube and get off at either Charing Cross or Leicester Square.
Eating at the National Gallery
The eateries at the National Gallery include. Ochre is an upscale cocktail bar open for lunch through dinner where you can also partake of the Ochre Afternoon Tea (served daily from 3 to 4:30 pm). For a quick bite, check out Muriel’s Kitchen, a self-serve café offering a casual menu.
Shopping at the National Gallery
You’ll find two shops full of all the postcards, art souvenirs, and high quality prints you could want. Every purchase made at the gift shop raises money to maintain the National Gallery.
Tours of the National Gallery
Every so often, I spring for a guided tour of an art museum and I’m never disappointed. Here’s a guided National Gallery highlights tour that includes afternoon tea (how very British!).
Staying in London
Although London is not very budget-friendly, I’ve usually managed to find good places to stay right in the center of the action.
On my latest trip to London, I stayed at the Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel, a well-located and excellent deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.
The Wilde ApartHotel just off the Strand is within walking distance of the National Gallery and also most of the West End theaters.
Conclusion
Have you visited the National Gallery? What are some of your favorites? Share in the Comments below. Want more posts about art museums? Here are some posts about great art museums in Europe that I’ve visited and recommend:
While planning a solo trip to England, I put Birmingham on my list for one reason only. I wanted to visit a National Trust property called Birmingham Back to Backs.
It’s not a grand country house like the vast majority of National Trust properties, but rather a nondescript collection of cramped houses built around a courtyard in the style known as back-to-back.
For over two centuries, millions of Britons (including some of my ancestors) lived and worked in this type of housing.
I was writing a novel set in a mill town in Yorkshire in the 1890s and wanted to know how regular people lived. Since the Birmingham Back to Backs property is the only one of its kind left in England, I booked two nights in Birmingham to see it.
But I had zero expectations of what else I’d see and do while in Birmingham.
Birmingham Map
The map below includes all the locations mentioned in this post. I suggest staying in the Gas Street Basin area (see below). You can walk pretty much everywhere from there or grab an Uber.
I arrived by train from Stratford-upon-Avon to Birmingham New Street Train Station (#5 on the map above) at 7 pm after a wonderful day tootling around the Cotswolds on a Go Cotswolds tour and took a taxi to the AC Marriott hotel located on the edge of the Gas Street Basin (#3 on the map above) in Birmingham’s bustling and refurbished city center.
The AC Marriott is located in Gas Street Basin in the building called The Mailbox
The second largest city in England, Birmingham appears to be booming.
After checking in to the hotel, I emerged quayside to the Gas Street Basin to survey a plethora of modern architecture, colorful boats cruising along canals lined with posh restaurants and bustling pubs, and throngs of people out having a good time.
Birmingham apparently has more miles of canals than Venice. Who knew?
The city planners got things right with this area of Birmingham. It’s incredibly people-friendly with its canal-side walkways and aura of peaceful prosperity.
Revitalized Birmingham
A Full Day in Birmingham
While enjoying my first coffee of the day at a coffee shop on the main floor of the hotel, I tried to listen in on the conversation between two men sitting next to me.
They were speaking English—I think. The famous Brummie accent really is just about incomprehensible, at least to me.
I needed to listen very, very carefully to hear more than a series of rumbles and mumbles with swallowed consonants and vowels and glottal stops. Clipped words emerged from throats that sounded like they’d been stuffed with cotton. I worried the men were choking, but no, they were just having a regular conversation. I’ve eavesdropped on French conversations and understood more!
So far, I’ve had to ask anyone I’ve interacted with to repeat themselves several times. Even a phrase like Anything else? asked by the coffee person comes out as noise.
And I thought the Scots accent was hard to understand! The Birmingham accent has it beat, hands down.
Birmingham Back to Backs
As mentioned, I decided to spend a full day in Birmingham to tour the Birmingham Back to Backs (#1 on the map above), a National Trust property that promises to let visitors experience 200 years of working people’s lives in the heart of Birmingham.
A hundred years ago, the Midlands and North of England were full of these brick structures built to accommodate the millions of factory workers needed to keep the industrial revolution ticking over.
I purchased my ticket a month prior (pre-booking is essential) and arrived at 10:30 am for the first tour of the day.
Entrance to Birmingham Back to Backs National Trust Property
For almost two hours, I enjoyed one of the most comprehensive and interesting tours I’ve ever experienced.
The National Trust is known for its stewardship of massive stately homes—domains of the 1%. I’ve visited many of these homes over the years and marveled at the art and architecture.
The Birmingham Back to Backs are at the opposite end of the wealth spectrum. That the National Trust also recognized the need to preserve the type of building in which a great majority of the population lived right up until the early 2000s is to its credit.
What are Back to Backs?
The Back to Backs are houses built, as the name suggests, back-to-back, with half the houses facing the street and the other half facing an inner courtyard.
A collection of these houses is known as a court. Some courts included dozens of houses.
The National Trust has preserved Court 15, a community of eleven houses thought to have housed over 500 different families over its 200-year lifespan.
The courtyard at the Birmingham Back to Backs
A very knowledgeable guide took our group into four homes and related the stories of the occupants from four time periods between 1840 and 1977. In our group of 9, everyone except me hailed from England.
One of the men, who was about my age, told us that his mum had been born in a Back to Back. I’m pretty sure my grandmother and certainly my great-grandmother would have lived in similar housing up in Yorkshire.
House 1: 1851
Each of the four houses we visit was decorated in the style of a different time period.
The first was from 1851 and was occupied by the Levys, a Jewish family who migrated to Birmingham from London. The house was surprisingly comfortable, even spacious, although certainly not luxurious. Lawrence Levy had been a watchmaker and had his workshop on the top floor.
We climbed up and down tiny twisting stairways numerous times during the tour.
Handrails and grips were provided for safety, but the guide informed us that back in the day, none of the staircases would have had handrails.
She asked us to imagine how agile a woman would have needed to be to mount the stairs while wearing long skirts and carrying a candle in one hand and probably a baby in the other. Apparently, accidents were common, and no wonder.
Even hanging on with both hands, I could barely make it up some of the almost vertical stairways!
House 2: 1860s
The next house we entered belonged to the Oldfield family who lived in one of the back houses in the 1860s.
Eleven people lived in the house at that time—two parents, seven children, and two lodgers all crammed into three floors consisting of one room per floor that also included space for Herbert Oldfield’s workshop. He was a glassworker who made glass eyes for dolls and stuffed toys.
One of the double beds had four pillows—two at each end. Four children would have slept top to tail in the bed, with likely one more in the middle! The guide also showed us a bureau drawer in which the baby slept.
A curtain divided the children’s bed from another double bed slept in by two lodgers.
A man and a woman (unmarried) shared the bed but apparently not at the same time. One worked the day shift and the other the night shift so they were two ships passing in the night.
Their space was bare of everything except a bed and a high shelf on which was stacked a small collection of books. The entire room was maybe 12’ x 12’.
The overcrowding must have been horrendous—and yet very common. My great-grandmother with her twelve brothers and sisters would have lived in a similar place when she was young.
She eloped in 1903 and emigrated to Canada in 1911 when my grandmother was five years old. The log cabin she inhabited in British Columbia with her four children and no running water must have seemed like paradise compared to the housing of her youth.
Entrance to the communal wash house at the Birmingham Back to Backs
House 3: 1830s-1935
Three generations of the third family—the Mitchells—lived at Court 15 from the 1830s, when water had to be brought from the well a few blocks away, until 1935 when the houses had basic plumbing and electricity.
The prevailing feeling in the small rooms was how cramped, dark, and uncomfortable they must have been to live in. The upper floors had no heat, and damp was a constant problem.
House 4: 1960s-2002
The final house was lived in by George Saunders who migrated to Birmingham in 1958 from St. Kitts in the Caribbean.
By that time, the ground floor of Court 15 had been converted to shops with some people still living in the floors above. George was a tailor and the last person who worked in Court 15 before its closure in 2002.
Special Exhibition at Birmingham Back to Backs
After enjoying the tour (highly recommended), I toured the special exhibitions.
The most interesting documented the Child’s Emigration Homes founded by John T. Milldemore in 1873. The Homes sent 5000 orphans and desperately poor children from Birmingham to Ontario, Nova Scotia, and British Columbia in Canada. Between 1922 and 1955, they sent another 259 children to Australia.
While some children thrived in their new homes, others did not and suffered terrible abuse. The pictures and commentary are both heartbreaking and compelling.
Photograph of Mary S., living in poverty in Birmingham in 1896 and allegedly better off in Canada in 1897George Before and After
Birmingham Back to Backs Practical Information
Operated by the National Trust, the Birmingham Back to Backs are accessible only by a guided tour that you must book in advance. Here’s the link. Tours are offered from 10:00 to 15:00 daily (closed Monday). Admission is free to National Trust members. Non-member prices are £9.50 for adults and £4.75 for children.
The Barber Institute of Fine Arts
After a lunch of leftover chicken wings from my dinner the night before, I set off for the Barber Institute of Fine Arts (#2).
I had wanted to visit the Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery (#6) which is said to be world-class and have an excellent collection of paintings by the pre-Raphaelites. However, it was undergoing renovations, with almost all the galleries were closed.
Housed in an imposing building on the campus of the University of Birmingham, the Barber Institute of Fine Arts was also reputed to have a fine collection so off I went.
I took my first Birmingham Uber with a young man originally from Haiti who was very interested in learning all about Canada.
We had a great chat as he drove me through the posh area of Birmingham with large houses and leafy avenues on our way to the university.
The Barber Institute Collection
The collection at the Barber Institute of Fine Arts was small but quite exquisite. I spent a happy hour wandering past works from the 14th to the 19th centuries. Here are a few highlights.
Dürer Special Exhibition
One room was dedicated to a special exhibition of etchings by Albrecht Dürer. I’ve had a soft spot for Dürer even since touring his house in Nuremberg.
Etching of a greyhound by Albrecht Dürer
Medieval Art
One of the first rooms included a good collection of medieval art (always my favorite).
Here’s a piece by Simone Martini (1284-1344) of Saint John the Evangelist. Painted in Siena in 1320, the piece originally formed the right-hand panel of a triptych. Although there is no signature on the piece to prove it was painted by Martini, the refined use of color, the elegant borders to the drapery, and the decoration in the gilding are characteristic of Martini’s style, which was very innovative for the time.
Flemish Art
I am fascinated by the still life paintings common in Flanders during the 16th and 17th centuries. The Barber had several interesting examples, including the two shown below.
A Still Life with a Nautilus Cup by Jan Davidsz de Heem
I love how the objects have been arranged in this painting to demonstrate how well the artist is able to show the play of light on different materials–shell, pewter, leaves, fruit, etc., using only a few colors.
Jan Davidsz de Heem (1606-1683/4) lived in Leiden, Holland.
A Still Life with a Nautilus Cup by Jan Davidsz de Heem
Still Life with a Garland of Fruit by Maria Tassaert
A woman artist! You don’t see many of them, although I’m noticing in recent trips to Europe that changes are afoot. In most galleries, I found a least a few paintings by female old masters as more and more of them are being rediscovered and given their due.
Maria Tassaert (about 1642-1668) lived and worked in Antwerp in Flanders.
The painting is a celebration of Nature’s bounty and the artist’s technical skills in depicting a cluster of fruit that includes cherries, white peaches, white and black grapes, nectarines, raspberries, blackberries, and gooseberries in addition to ivy and fruit-tree leaves.
Still Life with a Garland of Fruit by Maria Tassaert
Impressionists
The Barber Institute includes a few beautiful paintings from the 19th century, including a very fine Renoir.
A Young Woman Seated by Pierre-Auguste Renoir
This work became know as La Pensée or Thought and was painted around 1876. The soft oranges, reds, greens, and blues are typical of the Impressionist pallette during that period.
A Young Woman Seated by Pierre-Auguste Renoir
Pre-Raphaelites
The Last of England by Ford Madox Brown
One of the Barber Institutes major works is The Last of England by pre-Raphaelite artist Ford Madox Brown. It’s one of the masterworks of Victorian painting and one of the very few pieces in the collection that I was not allowed to photograph. Thank goodness for Wikipedia Commons (see picture below).
The painting depicts a young family huddled together on an open boat on their way to a ship that will take them from England to a new life in the colonies. The resigned expressions on their faces as they leave behind their home is caught with painstaking detail.
Ford Madox Brown, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Barber Institute of Fine Arts Practical Information
The Barber Institute of Fine Arts is located on the campus of the University of Birmingham and is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 17:00. Admission is free.
Strolling Around the Canals
I took an Uber back to my hotel and went for a stroll along the canals in the area immediately adjacent to Gas Street Basin (#3) where I was staying.
Restaurants and upscale pubs line the canals which were teeming with people enjoying the Bank Holiday Sunday.
The prevailing atmosphere was prosperous, cheerful, and incredibly diverse. Everyone seemed to be under forty, many pushing strollers. People from all over the world have made Birmingham their home, which rivals London for the diversity of its population.
Birmingham CanalsBrummies at play in a Birmingham plaza
What Else to See and Do in Birmingham
With only a day to spare, I didn’t have time to enjoy all the delights of Birmingham. Here are some suggestions if you have some extra hours. I particularly recommend the walking tours.
Where to Stay in Birmingham
I recommend staying in the vicinity of the Gas Street Basin, preferably overlooking one of the canals.
I stayed in the AC Hotel by Marriott and can recommend it. The room was spacious, the staff friendly and helpful, and the large bar very comfortable.
Also, the location overlooking the Gas Street Basin can’t be beat. Right outside your door are plenty of restaurants and cafes.
Every so often when traveling, serendipity rears its delightful head. The plans you’ve made go awry, but instead of facing disaster, you step into something even more wonderful.
That happened to us while traveling a few kilometers out of the fabled town of Montepulciano in Tuscany.
Read about our day leading up to finding Sant’Antonio Country Resort or cut to the chase and scroll down to my review!
Lead-Up to Montepulciano
In Rome, we woke up to the first rainy day of our time in Italy (we’d been in the country two weeks). The clanging at the building site next door to our apartment was slightly muted, much to our relief.
After nine nights, it was time to leave the Eternal City. We were all packed and waiting at the door for our 10:30 Uber. Horrendous Rome traffic delayed him over half an hour, but when he finally arrived, Roberto was cheerful and helpful.
Thirty minutes later, he dropped us at the garage where we found the same smiling attendant and our car already out of its slot and waiting for us to drive it away. What a wonderful service. Shout-out to Parclick!
Arrival in Montepulciano
We made it out of Rome without even one wrong turn—perhaps a record for us! Soon, we were back on the Autostrade speeding north to Tuscany. Ah, Tuscany! It’s one of my favorite places in Europe which is why I set my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, there. I’m working on two more novels set in Tuscany; perhaps on this trip I’d find more inspiration to finish them.
The beauty of the Tuscany landscape never gets old
After a smooth two-hour drive, we pulled up in front of our hotel for two nights—a lovely Albergo about five minutes outside Montepulciano. Neither of us had ever visited Montepulciano and so decided that on this trip we’d skip our usual visits to San Gimignano and Siena and see something new. Good call!
No Room at the Inn
Except we had a few more hoops to go through before the full Tuscan experience would wash over us.
The proprietor of the hotel looked puzzled when I give him my name. He searched his list, frowned, shook his head.
No, Signora.
Oh dear. I pulled out my phone and showed him my booking on booking.com and said in a somewhat aggrieved tone, We’ve definitely booked! See – October 13 to 15! A little shiver of doubt ran through me as I said this. Wasn’t today October 13?
He peered at my phone. Ah. That’s next year, Signora.
Oh.
And of course the place was full.
Plan B
We piled back into the car and started driving toward a place he suggested. Within three minutes–Google Maps notwithstanding–we were lost. We’ve found that Google Maps doesn’t always work well in the Italian countryside, or in the cities for that matter.
Gregg pulled over and I consulted my phone to see what booking.com had to offer. Fortunately, several options popped up around Montepulciano. We wanted something outside the town in a country setting. Over the years, we’ve had our share of disasters when we’ve booked places within the medieval walls of an ancient town. If you’ve ever done so, you’ll know what I mean. And if you haven’t, trust me.
If you’re driving, never book a place inside the walls of a medieval city. Ever.
Success
After a few searches, I selected Sant’Antonio Country Resort. It ticked all the boxes–countryside, looked pretty, nice big rooms, mid-range price, and best of all, available. I booked it, paid for it, and entered the address in Google Maps. The suggested route took us around Montepulciano where a band of red showed traffic congestion. Another route that was supposed to be slower but seemingly more direct took us across country in a straight line.
Throwing caution to the wind, I decided to ignore Google Maps and the nice GPS lady and directed Gregg along the other route.
On Our Way Again
Soon, we were bumping along dirt roads cleaving through vine-studded fields punctuated by deep green cypresses. In the distance, a row of pale blue Tuscan mountains floated in a smoky autumnal haze.
It was the Tuscany of our dreams. And fortunately, the road, although unpaved, was not undrivable. So, at a leisurely and extremely scenic pace, we eventually arrived at a massive iron gate—the entrance to the grandly named Sant’Antonio Country Resort.
I wasn’t sure what to expect.
I pressed the intercom and a voice told us to drive in as the gates slowly opened. The owners were incredibly welcoming and friendly. They informed us that never in the history of their working with booking.com had anyone ever booked on the website on the same day they wanted to stay. Apparently, the system is designed to reject such bookings.
But for some unexplainable reason, a glitch in the system let us through. How fortuitous!
Heaven at Sant’Antonio Country Resort: My Review
Sant’Antonio Country Resort is everything we love about Tuscany. Here’s why:
Located out in the country but still within a short drive of an iconic hilltown, in this case, Montepulciano
Plenty of free parking and easy to drive to
Gorgeous self-contained units in a renovated medieval convent
Most units with terraces
A swimming pool and many outdoor areas on the grounds
Plenty of country walks and scenic drives nearby
Stunning vistas of olive trees and cypresses at every turn
Excellent reviews
Friendly and accommodating owners who speak English and genuinely love sharing their little piece of heaven with their guests
And at the Sant’Antonio Country Resort, there is even a friendly fox that likes to steal shoes. We were warned not to leave our shoes outside our door because the fox would take them. What the fox does with the shoes is a mystery, but we agreed not to find out.
Our Accommodation at Sant’Antonio Country Resort
The owners very kindly upgraded us to a two-bedroom apartment complete with very comfortable living room, a big dining room, a large bed in the master bedroom, a second smaller bedroom where we stashed the luggage, and two bathrooms.
Oh, and two terraces.
Here are a few photographs of the place.
Our two-bedroom apartment is on the ground floor
Comfortable living room and dining area
On a walk on the grounds of the resort
Beautiful spots for relaxing all over the property
Memorable Dinners in Montepulciano
After a few hours reveling in our good luck, we left around 5 pm for a drive up to Montepulciano which we discovered is a lovely, calm town, much less frenetic than other Tuscan towns such as San Gimignano.
The deal here is food and wine—lots of wine, particularly the vino nobile of Montepulciano. We stopped at a little bar and I sampled my first glass while Gregg had a cappuccino. With about an hour to kill before our dinner reservation (kindly made by our hosts at Sant’Antonio Country Resort), we climbed the cobbled streets to reach the piazza. It was nearly empty in the early evening. I imagine that during the day, the place is mobbed.
Carol in the Grande Piazza in Montepulciano
Sunset over Tuscany from MontepulcianoDarkness falls over Montepulciano
Dinner at Porta di Bacco was served in an ancient room replete with a column (is it Roman?) and brick arches. The wine and food were predictably excellent. I ordered gnocchi with a duck ragout—hearty and tasty. The food here is different from Rome – more country-style and a nice change from the usual fare offered in Roman trattorias, which can get a bit repetitive.
After a moonlit stroll back to the car, we faced the challenging drive in the dark back to Sant’Antonio Country Resort. A drive that in daylight is quick and easy took on a different tenor at night. We made a few wrong turns but eventually got back on track and were soon pulling into our temporary home.
The next night we dined at Ristorante La Grotta, outside the city walls. Located in a 16th-century building, the restaurant was directly opposite the Church of San Biagio, a noted example of Tuscan Renaissance architecture.
Getting settled at the Ristorante La Grotta
My dessert
Church of San Biagio with Montepulciano perched on the hill above
I highly recommend Ristorante La Grotta for a Tuscan splurge. The service was impeccable and the food excellent. It was the most expensive meal we had in nine weeks, but at 110 Euros for three gourmet courses and excellent wine, it was an amazing bargain!
Enjoying Sant’Antonio Country Resort
While at Sant’Antonio Country Resort, we met some fellow Canadians who shared that they’ve visited before, and love returning. I can’t say I blame them!
We spent our day “off” from traveling by taking walks around the property (it stretches for several hectares), enjoying a drive along small country roads in the area, and generally chilling out. We even saw the fox!
Gregg working on one of our two terraces
Swimming pool (too cold in October!)
Walkway to our suite
An outdoor dining area for guests
Beautiful vista of Tuscan countryside near Sant’Antonio Country Resort
Should You Visit Sant’Antonio Country Resort?
If you’re looking for a Tuscan retreat that is reasonably priced (albeit slightly on the high side, but worth it), set in a glorious landscape, and owned by very helpful and friendly hosts, then I can’t recommend Sant’Antonio Country Resort highly enough.
For other places in and around Montepulciano, click the map below.
Many years ago, I took a wine tour of Tuscany that included a visit to a vineyard near Montepulciano. If you have a day to spare while visiting Tuscany, I highly recommend booking a wine tour. Here are a few suggestions.
Other Posts about Tuscany
Over the past three decades, I’ve visited Tuscany at least a dozen times, and every time I discover new wonders to enjoy and fabulous places to stay. For more suggestions about Tuscany, check out these posts:
Artsy traveling means being on the lookout for interesting encounters with artists, artisans, musicians, writers—the whole pantheon of creative people.
In Arezzo, a delightful town in Tuscany known as the city of gold and high fashion, I met with visual artist Silvia Salvadori.
Silvia works out of her studio, the Bottega d’Arte Toscana, on a tiny side street steps from the Piazza Grande in Arezzo (see the map below).
If you are in Arezzo, stop by to meet her and see her marvelous work.
Silvia is one of the very few artists in Italy who creates art using the same painting techniques as those used by the great masters of medieval Tuscany. I’m talking about such luminaries as Giotto, Duccio, and Lorenzetti—all artists I love and who inspired my debut novel The Towers of Tuscany.
Who is Silvia Salvadori?
Silvia’s ambition as an artist is to preserve and promote the ancient painting techniques described by Cennino Cennini in his work Il Libro dell’Arte (1370-1440) and by Giorgio Vasari in the Lives of the most excellent painters, sculptors, and architects (1550-1568).
Using these techniques, Silvia draws her inspiration from the art created by artists in Florence and Siena during medieval, Gothic, and early Renaissance times.
Silvia’s workshop–the Bottega d’Arte Toscana–is a treasure trove of beautiful paintings. One of the more prominent pieces is A Window in Time that hangs on the back wall of the Bottega and immediately captured my attention.
This arresting painting is a tribute to the city of Arezzo and the work of Piero della Francesca. The painting is a good example of how Silvia uses medieval painting techniques to put her own spin on a medieval subject.
Interview with Silvia Salvadori
I interviewed Silvia in the Bottega d’Arte Toscana in Arezzo in October 2022. Here’s an excerpt from our lively conversation conducted with the aid of a translation app.
Silvia’s Inspiration
Artsy Traveler: Why have you chosen to create works inspired by medieval art and using medieval techniques?
Silvia Salvadori: Twenty years ago, I began to study these painting techniques while at school in Siena. From there, a real adventure began. I decided I wanted to rediscover and use the painting techniques described by Cennini, a painter who lived in the 14th century and was a pupil of Giotto.
Art materials being used in Silvia’s workshop
Silvia’s Goal as an Artist
Artsy Traveler: What is your goal?
SilviaSalvadori: My goal is to preserve these techniques from medieval art and pass them on to future generations. These techniques are typically Tuscan. They were born in Siena and then also applied later by artists living in Florence and Arezzo where other schools of painting were born.
There have been other artists who have taken up these techniques but only to make reproductions or copies. I started by making copies, but now I am creating a style that is Renaissance but that also looks to the future.
It is a cultural project. These medieval art techniques are important and should not be lost.
How Silvia Creates a Painting
Artsy Traveler: How do you create a painting?
Silvia Salvadori: As described in Cennini’s book Il Libro dell’Arte, I start with wooden boards from poplar, lime, willow or pear trees that have been aged at least thirty years. I then prepare them using layers and layers (eight to twelve coats) of rabbit skin glue mixed with chalk. The chalk I use is the same kind that Cennini used in the 14th century. I also use the same pigments that Cennini describes.
The second phase is gilding performed with thin leaves of pure 23 carat gold stretched on a thin layer of red clay. I also use precious gems. These gems all had special meaning in medieval times. For example, amber, which I use a lot, symbolizes eternity.
For a detailed description of all the steps involved in creating a painting, check this page on Silvia’s website.
Silvia demonstrates how she uses a small punch to make designs in the gold leaf.
Landscapes in Silvia’s Work
Artsy Traveler: I see that you also often include landscapes in your paintings.
SilviaSalvadori: Yes, since I live in Arezzo and every day see the Tuscany landscape, I like to include it in my paintings.
An example of one of Silvia Salvadori’s landscape paintings
Looking to the Future
Artsy Traveler: Will you one day teach your techniques?
Silvia: I would very much like to teach young people how to paint using these techniques so that the techniques are not lost. But as Cennino said, technique is not enough. To create art, you must have a kind soul.
Silvia’s Artwork
As soon as you see one of Silvia’s pieces, you know you are looking at work inspired by medieval and Renaissance art. And while most of her subjects are directly related to their medieval and Renaissance counterparts, some subjects are contemporary and from pop culture.
Silvia’s work glows with the rich colors she creates from pigments she mixes with egg tempera, just like Cennini describes in his handbook. Her skill is awe-inspiring. Following are examples of the many gorgeous paintings hanging in Bottega d’Arte.
Paintings of Madonna and Child
Go to any art gallery in Italy that features medieval art and you’ll see scores of depictions of the Madonna and Child. Silvia’s versions, while heavily inspired by medieval works, are fresh and vibrant. The colors glow in the soft light of her workshop.
Here are four of the Madonna and Child paintings displayed in the Bottega d’Arte.
Paintings of Medieval Scenes
I love how medieval artists depicted buildings and towns. Silvia does the same when she includes buildings in her paintings. I particularly loved these two pieces.
Paintings with Contemporary Subjects
Silvia doesn’t confine herself to creating works in the medieval style. Many of the paintings in her workshop depict contemporary subjects—from Marilyn Monroe to a dachshund (one of my favorites).
My Connection to Silvia’s Work
I was thrilled to discover Silvia and her beautiful artwork for two reasons. First, as you’ve already seen from the examples included in this post, her work is stunning. And second, her work has a direct connection with my first novel The Towers of Tuscany about a female painter in 14th-century Tuscany.
When I was researching early Renaissance painting techniques in order to write the novel, I read and re-read Il Libro dell’Arte by Cennino de Cennini many times. Imagine my delight to discover that Silvia is intimately familiar with Cennini’s book, credited as the first manual designed to teach painting techniques to artists.
I felt honored to spend time with someone totally dedicated to her art. Silvia clearly loves what she does. As I watched her paint with tiny brushes that she uses to meticulously layer on stroke after stroke, I felt like the centuries had melted away and I was watching Sofia Barducci, my fictional heroine in The Towers of Tuscany, at work.
I have every confidence that Silvia will be able to realize her ambition to one day share her knowledge with other artists so that the ancient techniques are kept alive.
Visit Silvia Salvadori
Visit Silvia in the Bottega d’Arte Toscana in Arezzo and tell her the Artsy Traveler sent you! And after you’ve enjoyed meeting Silvia, consider purchasing one of her pieces. She has a wide variety of sizes and subjects to choose from. And considering the hours and hours of work Silvia dedicates to each of her pieces, the prices are very reasonable.
I love the small piece I purchased of a stylized Tuscan town painted in Silvia’s unique style. I have hung it next to my writing desk so I can look at it every day and remember the wonderful hour I spent getting to know Silvia and admiring her work.
The small painting I purchased from Silvia Salvadori
Visit Arezzo
After meeting Silvia in the Bottega d’Arte, take time to wander around Arezzo. It’s a charming town with plenty to delight the Artsy Traveler. With its inclined trapezoidal shape, the Piazza Grande is one of the most beautiful in Tuscany (which is saying something!).
Here are some pictures of the Piazza Grande.
And like so many towns in Tuscany, a big attraction is the food. We passed numerous stores and cafes featuring local cuisine. The specialty in Arezzo is Pappardelle all’Aretina (a ribbon-shaped pasta served with a sauce made from rabbit or duck), Zuppa di Cavolo (a cabbage soup), and the Pappa al Pomodoro (a tomato soup).
While in Arezzo, you can also visit the Vasari House Museum, which is a rare example of an artist’s house from the late Renaissance.
Conclusion
Have you visited Arezzo? Share your experience and suggestions with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
I first visited Yorkshire in 1974 at the age of eighteen during my epic around-England-by-train journey with two friends (read about that trip!).
The wonderful town of York quickly became our favorite because there was so much to see and do, even back in the 1970s.
It’s a tourist town with several noteworthy sites including the incomparable York Minster, the York Castle Museum, and the Jorvick Viking Centre.
York also makes an excellent home base from which to explore Yorkshire. As England’s largest county (by far), Yorkshire is otherwise known as God’s Country by the locals. I have a special affinity to Yorkshire. My grandmother was born in Masham in Yorkshire and often talked fondly of her early years there, and I’ve set my fifth novel there.
In this post, I detail what to see in York and describe two full-day, small-group tours I took in 2022. As I’ve mentioned elsewhere on Artsy Traveler, I’m a big fan of small-group day tours. The two I took from York were first-rate.
York
York Minster dominates the walled city of York. A tourist mecca with plenty of shops and services for visitors, it’s also small enough to walk around easily. I recommend staying for at least two nights (and preferably three).
While in York, I visited the Yorkshire Museum, York Minster, the York Castle Museum, and Jorvick Viking Centre. In addition, I took a shamble through the Shambles and enjoyed three excellent meals.
Here are a few other tours in York offered by Get Your Guide, a company I’ve taken tours with and can recommend.
Yorkshire Museum
The Yorkshire Museum is located in the Museum Gardens, which is about a 10-minute walk from the York Railway station next to the river and from the Bootham Gate leading into the ancient center of York where York Minster is located.
The museum itself is small and probably only worth a visit if the special exhibition interests you. When I visited, an informative exhibition about the Ryedale Hoard was featured. The Ryedale Hoard is a collection of bronze Roman objects discovered by detectorists in North Yorkshire in 2020. A small bronze bust of the Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius is the centerpiece of the collection.
The small bronze bust of the Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius, part of the Ryedale Hoard
The exhibition also includes other Roman objects and interesting descriptions of who might have buried the hoard—A priest? A landowner? A metalworker? And why? That’s the Ryedale Hoard mystery.
As well, the museum features a Jurassic exhibition and plenty of medieval and Roman objects. It’s definitely worth a quick visit if you’re into history, archaeology, and geology (and who isn’t?).
Yorkshire Museum Practical Information
The Yorkshire Museum is open Tuesday – Sunday from 11 am to 5 pm. Admission is £8 online / £8.75 walk-up price for Adults and Seniors; £4 online / £4.40 walk-up price for children ages 5-16; and £7.20 / £7.90 walk-up price for Students/Young People. The website advises booking online prior to visiting the museum.
York Minster
The headliner in York is York Minster, and no wonder! The magnificent cathedral dominates the skyline of York for miles around. I’ve visited York several times, and I still got a thrill every time I turned a corner and saw the Minster’s towers poking the sky between the buildings.
You’ll pay an admission fee to enter the Minster, but it’s money well spent. A big reason for the entrance fee is that it apparently costs £22,000 a day to keep the Minster open and operating. If you have time, visit around 5 pm to enjoy Evensong during which the choir sings accompanied by the organ–guaranteed to give you chills!
One of the coolest things about York Minster is how the facade changes with the light. I took a lot of pictures during my three-day stay. Every time I was in the vicinity of York Minster, it looked different! Here are two views.
York Minster is open Monday to Saturday from 9:30 am to 4 pm and on Sunday from 12:45 pm to 3:15 pm. Online ticket prices are Adult/Senior – £12.50; Students (not studying in York) – £9.50; Child (16 and under)* – free with a paying adult; York resident/York student – free with proof of address. Check the York Minster website to buy tickets online and also to check times for Evensong.
York Castle Museum
York Castle Museum is one of my favorite all-round cool museums in Britain. You can spend hours here prowling through the many exhibits designed to bring history to life.
I particularly enjoyed the re-creations of rooms from past eras. Here are two of them.
17th Century
19th Century
Another favorite room features costumes dating from the early 19th century to the present day. I got a kick out of this coat from the early 1970s, which is very similar to one I owned in 1974 when I was a student at Reading University!
Throwback time!
I spent quite a bit of time watching videos that bring to life the differences between work in the “olden” days and now. Two people–one from modern times and one from the early 1900s–spoke about their jobs. A maid in a country house talked with a cashier in a modern supermarket; a bank clerk from 1900 talked with a modern office worker, and so on. I was fascinated and had to watch all of the variations! The nature and quantity of work certainly has changed over the centuries.
One area of the museum is devoted to displaying full-size recreated streets from the early 20th century. Costumed guides happy to share their knowledge staff many of the shops.
View of a late-19th-century street, a reconstruction in the York Castle Museum in York
York Castle Museum Practical Information
The York Castle Museum is open Monday from 11 am to 5 pm and Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm. Admission is £13 online / £14 walk-up price for Adults and Seniors; £6.50 online / £7 walk-up price for children ages 5-16; and £11.70 / £12.60 walk-up price for Students/Young People. The website advises booking online prior to visiting the museum.
Jorvik Viking Centre
The Jorvik Viking Centre is touted as a major attraction in York and for good reason. It’s kind of cheesy, to be honest, but it’s still worth visiting to get a sense of what life was like back in the 800s when York was a Viking town.
After arriving at the Jorvik Viking Centre, I boarded a slow-moving, Disney-style ride (think It’s a Small World) and was whisked (slowly) away on a journey through a Viking town. Commentary is available in multiple languages. The dioramas and figures are life-like and give a pretty good sense of how the world might have looked back in the day. All that’s missing are the smells!
A viking with his dog
A viking making things out of antlers
I enjoyed the ride and the displays afterwards. Good-humored, costumed guides occasionally give demonstrations of various Viking crafts. A real Viking village was probably not quite so jolly.
Viking mum and child with vegetables
Jorvik Viking Centre Practical Information
The Jorvik Viking Centre is usually open from 10 am to 6 pm. Check the website for varying hours depending on the time of year. The Centre is a very popular tourist destination. Book your visit a few days in advance to select the time you want to visit and also avoid disappointment. Popular time slots sell out quickly. Admission is £13.50 for Adults; £9.50 for children ages 5-16 accompanied by an adult; £11.50 for students with valid student ID, and £11.50 for seniors 60+. Visit the website to book online.
The Shambles
The Shambles is a touristy but still fun street in York. Although only a block long, the street is one of the few remaining in Britain that retains its medieval character. Buildings jut out over the narrow street which is more like an alleyway.
Capitalizing on the Harry Potter franchise, the street contains several “magic” stores. The area is worth a quick walk through, preferably in the evening after the crowds of tourists have somewhat dissipated.
The Shambles in York
Harry Potter spin-off shop
Tours of York with Tiqets.com
Here are some tours offered through Tiqets.com
Yorkshire Moors Tour
I signed up for a full-day tour of the moors with Grand Yorkshire Tours. Called “Steam Trains, Whitby & the Moors”, the tour promises a full day with no more than seven people in a small minivan. Hotel pickup and steam train tickets are included.
At exactly 9 am, as promised, the driver pulls up in front of Jorvik House Hotel and I jump into the minivan where my six companions are already settled: a couple from Florida, a man from Colorado Springs, another couple from Cheltenham in the UK, and a woman from Tunisia who has lived for many years in the US.
And me, as usual the lone Canadian.
Our driver, Peter, is a Yorkshire native who takes us on a comprehensive tour through several of Yorkshire’s scenic hot spots. Yorkshire is so large that I book another tour for the following day that features the Yorkshire Dales because the itineraries are completely different.
Helmsley
Our first stop is the idyllic little town of Helmsley on the edge of the North York Moors National Park where our driver is from. He advises us to take the iconic shot of the church (see below), which I of course do.
Iconic shot of Helmsley in Yorkshire
With my touristic duty done, I take stock of Helmsley’s many scrummy-looking bakeries and tea shops. I try to resist the siren call of the scones, but in vain. I buy two. One is chock-a-block with candied fruit and the other packed full of cheese.
Both are achingly fresh and fluffy and buttery.
Yorkshire Moors
We drive up into the Yorkshire moors and learn about the history of the area—from Romans to Vikings to the Middle Ages and then the reformation which certainly caused a lot of damage to local monasteries and churches. The views are stunning.
I’m lucky to be visiting at the tail end of heather season. Clumps of vivid purple carpet large swathes of the brown moors. Every so often, a sheep wanders by. As Peter says, we are driving through their home since most sheep live on the moors year round.
Carol Cram on the Yorkshire Moors
I learn that heather moorland is rare compared to other types of land. One of the world’s largest continuous expanses of upland heather moorland is in the North York Moors.
Peter, the guide on Grand Yorkshire Tours, talk about moorland and heather
I also learn that the moors are actually man-made. The landscape looks so wild that it’s hard to believe it hasn’t always looked that way. But nope. As early as the Iron Age 4,000 years ago, people were wanting to farm crops and pasture animals.
They cut down the vast forests that had covered the area to make clearings for farms. As the population grew, the forests diminished until by the Middle Ages, most of the woodland had disappeared.
Here’s a video shot atop the Yorkshire moors. Spectacular!
Whitby
The seaside town of Whitby is a revelation. The only thing I know about Whitby is that it’s on the sea. As a result, I’m pleasantly surprised to discover a fabulous abbey perched high on cliffs overlooking the sparkling blue North Sea, a charming old town, the best fish and chips in the UK (their claim and it seems valid), a Captain Cook Museum, and a major connection to Dracula.
The seaside town of Whitby
Goths Rule in Whitby
Wander the streets of Whitby and you’ll eventually come across young women (and sometimes men) dressed head to toe in artfully tattered black clothes and wearing heavy black make-up and an earnest expression. You’ll be right to presume they are visiting Whitby because of the Dracula connection.
Twice I pass a family that makes me smile. Mum and Dad are typical middle-class English folks—the kind of conservatively dressed, comfortable-looking people you see every day. Their daughter, however, wears a long black gown (tattered, of course), carries a black parasol, and is wearing the most outlandish black eye make-up I’ve ever seen. The three of them wander around the Abbey ruins and then later I see them in the town enjoying fish and chips. The daughter’s appearance barely merits the occasional glance from passersby.
Bram Stoker & Whitby
Bram Stoker arrived in Whitby in July of 1890. The windswept headland and spooky abbey ruins combined with the atmospheric old town and North Sea views were ripe for exploiting by an over-active imagination (which Stoker had in spades).
Bram Stoker – Wikipedia
He hung around the town for a few weeks presumably enjoying the sea air before fate stepped in. Stoker visited the local library and discovered a book published in 1820 that recorded the experiences of William Wilkinson, a British consul in Bucharest. While traveling in Wallachia and Moldavia (now in Romania), Wilkinson learned about Vlad Tepes, a charming fellow known as Dracula, aka “son of the dragon.” He had a not-so-charming habit of impaling his enemies on wooden stakes.
Anyway, Bram Stoker’s imagination went into overdrive and 130 years later, heavily gothed-up young people take day trips to Whitby to wander the Abbey ruins, presumably with vampiric intentions, and then descend the 199 steps to the old town to enjoy fish and chips followed by teeth-breaking encounters with pieces of Whitby rock (an iconic hard candy with a vivid pink coating).
Whitby Abbey
Peter drops us off at the Abbey and advises us to walk down the 199 steps to the town and meet him two hours later at the train station. The weather obliges with brilliant blue skies against which the Abbey ruins photograph beautifully. I wander around the ruins for a while, dodging the occasional Goth girl, and have a quick look in the museum.
Whitby Abbey in Yorkshire
A stunning location for Whitby Abbey in Yorkshire
I read that on May 26, 2022, which is the 125th anniversary of Bram Stoker’s novel Dracula, 1,369 vampires showed up to celebrate. The event was billed as the largest gathering of people dressed as vampires in the world. Now that’s an event to really get your teeth into.
The first Whitby Abbey was a 7th-century Christian monastery that later became a Benedictine abbey. It was a major center of learning for about 800 years until it was confiscated and then destroyed by Henry VIII during the dissolution of the monasteries (1536-1545). Henry certainly was busy in the area.
Descending 199 Steps to the Old Town of Whitby
I am glad to be descending the steps rather than ascending. Many more people are climbing up and I’m a bit alarmed by the look of some them as, red-faced and panting, they struggle up the stairs.
Every few feet, I pause to snap yet another gorgeous photo until finally I’m walking along the narrow, twisty streets of the old town.
Looking out over a graveyard in Whitby
The Captain Cook Memorial Museum is nearby but, cognizant of the need to have lunch and then be on time for the bus, I reluctantly pass on it. I head across the bridge to the new town and buy a take-away of fish and chips.
Eating in Whitby
I’ve never seen so many fish and chips shops, ice cream parlors, and candy stores in one place in my life. And business is brisk. Although it’s the day after the Monday bank holiday, the streets are packed with holiday makers.
For just £8.50 (including a can of pop), my lunch is an amazing bargain. The piece of haddock is huge and absolutely the best I’ve ever tasted. Crunchy light batter coats a thick piece of meaty white haddock that tastes light and of the sea. Marvelous!
I settle on to a bench alongside the harbor and watch the world go by as I enjoy my fish and chips. Judging from the conversations I overhear, pretty much everyone is local. And almost everyone has a dog—from whippets and dachshunds to spaniels and labs and everything in between.
A medium portion of fish and chips in Whitby
Taking the Steam Train
After Whitby, our next stop is tiny Goathland station, made famous in the Harry Potter movies as the location of Hogsmeade station. Part of the tour includes a one-hour ride on the steam train that journeys along the North Yorkshire Moors Railway to the town of Pickering.
Unfortunately, an exceedingly dry summer has resulted in a ban on steam engines. Apparently, they pose a fire hazard. As a result, the carriages are drawn by a common-or-garden diesel engine which is a bit of a disappointment but can’t be helped.
Here is the train pulling into the station–a video that would be a bit more dramatic if the train was the regular steam train, but you get the idea.
The journey takes us through dark forests and across wide expanses to purple heather and dry yellow grasses. I marvel at the quantity of wild land in such a crowded country.
Church of St. Peter and St. Paul in Pickering
Our last stop before driving back to York is the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, a typical small parish church with a not-so-typical interior. The original Norman church was built around 1140 and then in 1450 a series of colorful medieval wall murals were painted.
Back in the day, the walls of most churches were filled with colorful paintings depicting Biblical scenes for the vast majority of parishioners who could not read. Come the Reformation and then the Civil War, religious types with different views whitewashed the paintings.
In 1852, the paintings were revealed; however, the vicar at the time apparently did not want the paintings shown, saying that “As a work of art [they are] fairly ridiculous, would excite feelings of curiosity, and distract the congregation.”
I’ll bet he wasn’t a lot of fun at a party.
He ordered the paintings be re-covered with a thick yellow wash that was finally removed in the 1880s and 1890s. The resulting paintings, while extensively damaged, are a fabulous example of how most church interiors originally looked. Unfortunately, only about five churches in the country still have their original murals, with the ones in St. Peter and St. Paul being of particularly fine quality.
A Hidden Gem
For the wandering Artsy Traveler, the paintings are a hidden gem. Peter tells us that almost no one knows about the paintings. One of the many benefits of taking small-group tours is the chance to explore such off-the-beaten-path sites.
Return to York
We drive back to York and I enjoy a first-rate pub meal at The House of the Trembling Madness. I love this place! The upstairs room in the medieval building dates from the 12st century and has all the heavy wooden beams and stuffed critters on the walls to prove it. I order the Yorkshire Platter and am in heaven.
A walls of heads in the House of the Trembling Madness pub
An amazing Yorkshire Platter
Yorkshire Dales Tour
I choose a different company for my second tour of Yorkshire—this time of the Yorkshire Dales with Mountain Goat Tours. Like the Go Cotswolds tour, the Mountain Goat tours use 16-seater minibusses which are small enough to navigate the tiny mountain roads we’ll traverse during the course of the day.
Mountain Goat Tours 16-seater bus
Matt, our guide and driver, is friendly, knowledgeable, and very enthusiastic about responsible tourism. He tells us that he’s doing his master’s degree in tourism management and has been conducting tours with Mountain Goat for several years. The company provides day tours in scenic areas all over the north including the Lake District, North Wales, and, of course, Yorkshire.
A Short History of Yorkshire
As we head out of York, Matt gives us a short history of the area, explaining how it was first settled by the Romans and then the Anglo Saxons, the Vikings, and the Normans in 1066. He tells us about the Harrying of the North, which I’d never heard of even though I lived in Durham, which is pretty close to York, for a year in the 1970s.
After conquering southern England, William the Conqueror turned his attention to subjugating the North. The people of the North were none too pleased and had the nerve to rebel against William. He retaliated with swift brutality by using scorched earth tactics to destroy the northern shires, particularly in the city of York. Even for the time, William’s viciousness was breathtaking.
Harrying of the North
After the tour, I go online to learn more about the Harrying of the North and read this account by Orderic Vitalis, a contemporary chronicler. In 1069, he wrote:
“Nowhere else had William shown so much cruelty. Shamefully he succumbed to this vice, for he made no effort to restrain his fury and punished the innocent with the guilty. In his anger he commanded that all crops and herds, chattels and food of every kind should be brought together and burned to ashes with consuming fire, so that the whole region north of the Humber might be stripped of all means of sustenance. In consequence so serious a scarcity was felt in England, and so terrible a famine fell upon the humble and defenceless populace, that more than 100,000 Christian folk of both sexes, young and old alike, perished of hunger.”
No wonder that to this day people in the north are often not terribly keen on southerners!
Masham
Our first stop is the town of Masham, a market town where the smell of beer brewing in the local breweries hangs in the air and the attractive town square is lined with stone buildings that look unchanged for a century or two.
Town of Masham
Typical housing in Masham
My grandmother was born in Masham in 1906 so visiting it has a special significance. Her family left soon after she was born (they moved a lot) so my grandmother likely never knew much about the place.
I stand in the middle of the market square and try to imagine my great-grandmother holding my grannie in one arm while she held the hand of my great-aunt. The town now is marketed as a good home base for touring the Yorkshire dales, but back in my granny’s time I think it must have been quite bleak.
Jervaulx Abbey
Matt takes us to lovely Jervaulx Abbey, a hauntingly beautiful place privately owned and maintained by the Burdon family. The Abbey, like all the abbeys in the area, was plundered and pillaged during the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the 16th century.
The ruins are charmingly untouched, with wild flowers, shrubs and trees growing freely in a peaceful country setting.
Jervaulx Abbey
Bolton Castle
Another quick stop at Bolton Castle gives me just enough time to make the acquaintance of some wild boars who don’t look very wild. As I approach their enclosure, they barely twitch a whisker. And then I take out a bag of crisps and the sound wakes up several of them. They charge towards the wire fence, ears perked. I have to tell them no. After staring at me hopefully for a few minutes, they amble back to find the patch of dirt they’d vacated and resume their recumbent positions.
Boars at Bolton Castle
Bolton Castle
Mary, Queen of Scots was imprisoned in Bolton Castle along with a large entourage of servants (so she couldn’t have been too deprived) between 1568 and 1579. But her life went from bad to worse following her Bolton Castle stint until finally she was beheaded by order of her cousin Elizabeth I in 1587.
Aysgarth Falls
Next stop is a quick one to view Aysgarth Falls on the River Ure. It’s a spectacular triple flight of waterfalls made famous as the place where Kevin Costner as Robin Hood duels with Little John in Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves.
Hawes
We drive up hill and down dale to the village of Hawes in Wensleydale, home of Wensleydale cheese. Matt drops us at the Wensleydale Creamery where I sample several varieties of cheese and purchase a hunk of Wensleydale along with a package of oatcakes. After cheesing out, I walk down to the village and have lunch at a pub.
There’s not a whole lot to see in Hawes, but it is extremely charming, with the added bonus of being the target of the Hawes Yarn Bombers. The fruits of the crochet labors are all over the town and include a large tableau of crocheted characters from Shrek. I text pictures to my daughter Julia who is also a crochet artist.
Yarn bombing in Hawes
Butter Tubs Pass
Matt drives us up very narrow roads to enjoy stunning vistas of the Yorkshire countryside. What a place! We stop briefly at Butter Tubs Pass that crosses high moorland between Wensleydale and Swaledale. The limestone potholes known as the butter tubs are so named because farmers on their way to market would stop on hot days at the top of the climb and lower their tubs of butter into the limestone potholes to keep the butter cool.
Here’s a video taken at the top of the pass showing both the Yorkshire moors and the Yorkshire dales. Pretty darned spectacular!
Leeth
The picture-perfect little town of Leeth is our final stop. Matt advises us to get ice cream made at a local creamery. My cone of honeycomb and ginger ice cream tastes as good as it sounds.
I shoot this video while standing on the village green (and holding my ice cream cone):
Recommended Yorkshire Tours
I wholeheartedly recommend the tours I took with these two companies:
Both companies provided good value for money, excellent guides, scenic drives, and well-planned stops.
Conclusion
My two full days and three nights in York come to a close as I board the train for a quick trip north to Durham where I will spend three nights. Have you visited York and Yorkshire? What suggestions do you have for enjoying this glorious area of England? Please share in the the Comments below.
