Culinary tourism is definitely a thing, and nowhere more so than in Italy.
Food tours and cooking classes abound and for good reason. Italy and food go together like, well, Italy and food.
The popularity of Stanley Tucci’s series Searching for Italy about food in Italy is proof that eating and cooking continue to be two of the many artsy reasons to travel in Italy.
Is cooking an art? Absolutely!
And so, while spending a week in Rome, I decided to take a cooking class. I’d taken a cooking class in Paris, and one of my guest posters, Liz Reding, has written a post about her cooking class experiences in France and Spain.
It was time for Italy to take a turn.
Choosing InRome Cooking
I chose a 3-hour cooking class with InRome Cooking. Here’s the link to register if, after reading this post, you’re interested in taking the class.
Full disclosure – the link takes you to the Tiqets.com website, which is one of my affiliates. That means I get a small percentage of the ticket price if you register.
Cut to the chase–I highly recommend taking a 3-hour class with InRome Cooking. The time flew by and not only did I learn a lot, but I also enjoyed a fabulous meal that I’d cooked myself with some help from my new friends and chef Marco.
About InRome Cooking
InRome Cooking operates out of three locations:
Flagship school on Corso del Rinascimento in a converted 17th-century palace very close to the Piazza Navona and overlooking the Italian parliament. This is the location for the Hands-on Pasta Making Class & Tiramisù class I took.
A sleek and stylish terraced building near the Pantheon on Via Giustiniani.
A cooking school located in the Pope’s organic farm at his private estate in Castel Gandolfo outside Rome.
My Experience with InRome Cooking
In this post, I write about my experience taking a 3-hour class at the Corso del Rinascimento location.
InRome Cooking offers several classes–either shared or private.
I chose the Hands-on Pasta Making Class & Tiramisù for two reasons. First, my husband, Gregg Simpson, had recently discovered the delectable delights of Tiramisù and so I thought it would be good to learn how to make it at home. And second, I have a pasta maker gathering dust in my cupboard, and felt it was high time I learned how to use it correctly.
Both goals were met during the course of the evening.
Registering for a Class with InRome Cooking
I registered for the class about three days in advance, in October 2022. The registration process through Tiqets.com was quick and efficient. Within seconds, I had my ticket downloaded and ready to show. It’s advisable to register well in advance. I was probably lucky to get a spot because the class of just twelve participants was full.
Arriving at InRome Cooking
Promptly at 5:20, I arrived at InRome Cooking located at Corso del Rinascimento, 65 after passing it and then doubling back. You have to look closely to see the rather small InRome Cooking sign on the door.
InRome Cooking next to the buzzer at Corso del Rinascimento, 65
For a few moments, I was flummoxed, but soon figured out that I needed to ring the buzzer to be let in. A voice answered (phew!), the buzzer buzzed, and I climbed two flights of marble stairs in the converted 17th-century palazzo. I do like a nice palazzo.
I was met at the top of the stairs by Chef Marco holding a clipboard and smiling broadly. He ushered me into a gorgeous, light-filled kitchen and introduced me to my companions for the evening: a mother and son from Arizona; a mother and son from Sweden, a mom and dad and son from San Francisco, and two couples from Toronto.
The InRome Cooking kitchen with ingredients set out to make Tiramisù
The evening began promptly at 5:30 with a welcome glass of prosecco. We were then placed around the large table already laden with the ingredients and utensils we’d need to make Tiramisù.
Prosecco!
Me with chef Marco
Making Tiramisù
We started by making dessert so it would have time to set before enjoying it at the end of the evening.
Chef Marco paired us up and told us to get cracking (literally!). We each separated an egg to get two yolks. The whites were whisked away to be beaten by the sous chefs for later folding into the Tiramisù. We then set to work beating the gorgeous yellow yolks.
Marco told us that fresh eggs are essential for Tiramisù (or indeed any cooking). They shouldn’t be much older than a few weeks and preferably from local hens. I’m lucky that I live on an island where fresh eggs are readily available.
Throughout the evening, Marco emphasized that great cooking starts with the very freshest of ingredients. You don’t need many ingredients to create a wonderful dish when each ingredient is top quality.
Tiramisù Ingredients
For the Tiramisù, we used only six ingredients: fresh eggs, sugar, mascarpone cheese, ladyfingers (called savoiardi), cold coffee, and cocoa powder (unsweetened) for the topping. Tiramisù translates literally as “pick me up,” a direct result of the espresso used in the recipe.
Tiramisù Method
Under Marco’s expert tutelage, we beat sugar into the egg yolks until the color was a rich and creamy light yellow. The more we beat, the creamier the eggs became. I’d say we beat for at least five minutes. Fortunately, Marco supplied links to recipes at the end of the class so I didn’t need to make notes.
After beating the eggs and sugar, we stirred in very generous dollops of mascarpone cheese. Marco emphasized that precise measuring is not necessary in Italian cooking. A generous tablespoon looked to me more like two or three level tablespoons. But then is there such a thing as too much marscapone?
Next step was folding in generous spoonfuls of whipped egg yolks.
Layering the Tiramisù
With our creamy, eggy, cheesy concoction all mixed and ready to go, we were ready to build our Tiramisù. Marco handed each of us a lovely big tea cup (I suppose coffee cup would be more accurate!) and demonstrated the next steps.
First, I took a ladyfinger biscuit and dipped it quickly into the bowl of cold espresso. Down and up, no lingering. The ladyfinger should absorb the coffee but not be dissolved by it. I then broke the ladyfinger in two and placed it at the bottom of the cup.
Next, I spooned in half of the creamy, eggy, cheesy mixture and then dipped and broke another ladyfinger. Finally, I slathered on the rest of the creamy stuff.
One more step! We were given shakers of pure, unsweetened cocoa to sprinkle on top of the Tiramisù and directed to carve something meaningful into the cocoa so we’d know which one is ours.
Here’s my first (and extremely delicious) attempt at Tiramisù with my initials etched in with a toothpick:
Tiramisù made at InRome Cooking
Making Pasta
The Tiramisùs were whisked away and the large workspace cleaned by the staff while I mingled for a while with the other guests and enjoyed another glass of prosecco. Two of the people from Toronto had been to Bowen Island where I live, and one has a friend who has just written her first historical novel. Coincidentally, it’s about a subject that intrigued me after visiting the Back to Backs National Trust property in Birmingham. Small world.
We were to make two kinds of pasta: cacio e pepe and amatriciana. It turned out we wouldn’t be making the sauces; Marco demonstrated that. Our job was to make the pasta.
Marco showed us how to mix the two flours and then to knead in the olive oil to make a beautiful, yellow dough. Next step was to pass the dough through the rollers of the pasta maker several times to flatten it and then through the cutters.
The pasta makers were equipped with two cutters–one to make spaghetti which we later ate with the cacio e pepe sauce and one to make fettucine, which we ate with the amatriciana sauce.
Carol flattening the pasta
Making the Sauces
As he had all evening, Marco emphasized the importance of using just a few, top quality ingredients.
Amatriciana Sauce
The amatriciana sauce contains only three ingredients: Mutti tomato sauce (it only contains tomatoes grown in Italy, of course), small pieces of pork cheek that have been very slowly cooked to release the fat and flavor, and romano cheese.
Marco cooked the fettucine we’d just made for a very few minutes and then showed us how to combine the pasta with the three-ingredient sauce. The smell was amazing!
Cacio e pepeSauce
This sauce is a Roman specialty and is the simplest of all. Only two ingredients are used–romano cheese and freshly ground pepper. That’s it! Marco demonstrated how he makes the sauce by stirring the starchy water from the boiled pasta into the cheese to make a rich, creamy sauce. He then added the fresh pepper. The result was to die for!
Making Amatriciana
Making Cacio e pepe
Eating the Results
Following the demonstrations of how the pasta is combined with the two sauces to make Amatriciana and Cacio e pepe, we were invited into the adjacent dining room, complete with coffered, Renaissance style ceiling. I joined the table of Canadians and enjoyed pleasant conversation about travel and food while enjoying the fruits of the evening’s labors.
Amatriciana
Cacio e pepe
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Conclusion
The three-hour cooking class (more like three and half by the time we finished eating) at InRome Cooking is a bargain at only €75 (price varies depending on which class you choose). Considering I enjoyed three delectable courses, learned a lot of valuable cooking tips and even got plenty of hands-on practice, I consider the fee very reasonable indeed.
Have you taken a cooking class in Rome? Share your experience in the comments below.
Love Shakespeare? Then make the pilgrimage to Stratford-upon-Avon. It’s about a two-hour train journey from London and a perfect first stop after visiting the capital.
Stay at least one night (preferably two) and be sure to get tickets for a performance by the Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC).
On a recent trip, I stayed one night in Stratford-upon-Avon, saw a performance of Richard III (more on this in a minute!) and then the next day took a full-day, small-group tour of the Cotswolds with Go Cotswolds before hopping on the train to Birmingham for two nights.
Read about my wonderful day out with Go Cotswolds.
Stratford at a Glance
Take a guided tour of the town with Shakespeare from Tudor World
In this post, I share my almost-50-year love affair with Stratford-upon-Avon along with tips about what to see and do based on my recent visit.
Getting to Stratford-upon-Avon
I rose early and took a taxi from Wilde Aparthotels to Marylebone Station. I had to change trains at Solihul, which turned out to be a small station surrounded by countryside. The minute I stepped off the train to wait on the platform for the train to Stratford-upon-Avon, I was subsumed by a massive dose of nostalgia.
The smell and sound of the English countryside took me back to 1974. I was 18 again, inhaling the earthy odors of a deciduous forest as I walked through on the campus of the University of Reading on my way to lectures, hearing the same bird song, excited and a little nervous—a stranger in a new land.
England, pleasant England.
Pleasant English countryside – the River Avon in Stratford-upon-Avon
I felt like all the years in between had disappeared because inside I felt exactly the same now as I was then. All that’d changed was an accumulation of memories and people like my husband who hadn’t existed for me in 1974 and my daughter who hadn’t existed at all.
I decided that my 18-year-old self should feel good about how her life is turning out. Sure, I haven’t won an Oscar for a movie based on one of my novels (a girl can dream!), but I’m totally okay with that.
If my 18-year-old self knew what I know now, she would be too.
My First Visit to Stratford-upon-Avon
I boarded the train to Stratford-upon-Avon and more memories flooded in. On each of my last three trips to the UK, I’ve included a night in Stratford-upon-Avon because, well, Shakespeare.
Attending a performance at the Royal Shakespeare Company is a must.
I first visited Stratford-upon-Avon in 1970 when I was 14 and traveling with my mom. We went to a performance at the Royal Shakespeare Company theatre. As an English teacher, Mom was determined to expand my horizons, for which I am eternally grateful.
In front of the RSC theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon
We saw Two Gentlemen of Verona which is one of Shakespeare’s least memorable plays. The only thing I remembered all these years later was the small swimming pool set into the stage. I’d never see anything like it!
Every so often, an actor would slip into the pool and splash about.
Unfortunately, Mom and I visited Stratford-upon-Avon only a few days after landing in the UK and jet lag prevailed. I remember a lot of head bobbing as I tried to stay awake to see the next time someone got wet.
RSC Performances at Stratford-upon-Avon
Since that first performance, I’ve been to Stratford-on-Avon quite a few times.
For three years, from 1974 to 1977, I attended the University of Reading where I studied English Literature. Stratford-on-Avon is about a two-hour drive from Reading, so my friends and I frequently drove up to catch a performance.
I remember seeing Henry V, King Lear (fabulous storm scene!), and A Winter’s Tale. I’m sure there were others, but they are lost to memory now.
In 1999, my daughter Julia (aged 14 at the time) and I went to see Romeo and Juliet starring David Tennant of Doctor Who fame (among many other memorable roles) as Romeo.
We didn’t know who he was at the time, but I do remember the production being wonderful. Listening to actors from the RSC doing Shakespeare is like watching cut glass sparkle in the air. Every word, every gesture, every raised eyebrow is precise and perfect.
Hamlet in 2008
Another memorable visit was in 2008 when Julia and I saw Hamlet starring David Tennant, who was by then famous. Julia even got his autograph following the performance.
And so I returned to Stratford-upon-Avon in 2022, this time to see Richard III. I can’t say it’s my favorite play, being rather too full of dead bodies for my taste.
But it was the only play being performed on the only date I could be in Stratford-upon-Avon.
Also, I knew it would be well done.
Touring Stratford-upon-Avon with the Bard
But first, I needed to spend an afternoon with the Bard himself. I signed up for a two-hour tour of Stratford-upon-Avon led by Shakespeare (well, a guy dressed like Shakespeare!).
At 2 pm, I joined four other people outside Tudor World on Sheep Street and met our guide. Here’s the link to the tour (highly recommended).
He was crude, lewd, and a lot of fun. He also had a wealth of knowledge about his life back in the day, particularly the portion spent in Stratford-upon-Avon.
As the son of a tanner who was also the mayor, young Will received an excellent education. His is not a rags to riches story.
Shakespeare in front of “Dad’s House” – his birthplace in Stratford-upon-Avon
“Dad’s House” and Others in Stratford-upon-Avon
Over the next two hours, Shakespeare took us to various sites around town including “Dad’s house” as he called it (his birthplace) and the houses of his two grown daughters, one of whom married a nice guy and the other who didn’t.
We also saw his grammar school and the site of the house he built after retiring to Stratford-upon-Avon an exceedingly rich man.
Shakespeare in front of one of his daughter’s houses in Stratford-upon-Avon
Along the way, Shakespeare kept up a constant commentary full of tidbits of knowledge about Elizabethan life (a smelly time indeed) and about Shakespeare’s life.
Shakespeare’s Final Resting Place
We ended the tour in the churchyard where Shakespeare (minus his head apparently) is buried. The church was closed, but we wandered around the tombstones, several of which are fake.
Shakespeare told us that back in the Victorian era, some enterprising busy bodies decided that the churchyard needed more gravestones for the mist to swirl around on spooky winter nights. So they had a bunch made and stuck them in willy nilly (some almost on top of real graves) all over the churchyard.
Apparently, they are easy to spot since everyone commemorates either William or Elizabeth. Bit of a giveaway.
Churchyard at the Stratford-upon-Avon church where Shakespeare is buried
At the end of the tour, I chatted with the guide and told him about my third novel, The Muse of Fire. Since it’s about the theater and includes a lot of Shakespeare, I figured he might enjoy it.
He promised to download it on his Kindle. I wonder if he did!
Enjoying Stratford-upon-Avon
There’s really not a whole lot to see in Stratford-upon-Avon. You can tour Shakespeare’s birthplace and go to Anne Hathaway’s Cottage, but both feel a tad on the touristy side. I prefer taking the Tudor World tour which yes, is also touristy, but you’ll learn a lot and get a good feel for the town.
I suggest spending time just wandering around the town, which is not large.
Stop in at Romeo & Gelato for an ice cream and, if the market is on, browse the stalls to buy knickknacks and gourmet food. I bought a large chocolate cookie that took me two days to eat.
Take a walk alongside the River Avon to enjoy the views. The place really is postcard-perfect.
Yes, it’s a real shop window in Stratford-upon-Avon
Each row boat is named after a different Shakespeare heroine
A good stop for photo ops is the collection of statues near locks in the middle of Stratford-upon-Avon. On an early morning walk, I snapped these photos.
Statue of Shakespeare in Stratford-upon-Avon
Statue of the ill-fated Lady Macbeth in Stratford-upon-Avon
Attending an RSC Performance
At just after 7 pm, I arrived at the RSC theater for the 7:30 performance. The first thing I saw upon entering the narrow lobby was a massive poster of David Tennant decked out as Richard II. I texted a photo to Julia who was just starting her workday back in Vancouver and learned that yes, she’d seen the production streamed.
Poster of David Tennant as Richard II in the lobby at the RSC Theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon
I found my seat, took a picture of the stage, and got to know my neighbor, a lady from Cheltenham who used to be a teacher. After retiring at the age of 50, she lived for 25 years in the Dordogne area of France. As fellow teachers (I trained in England in 1979) and lovers of France, we had lots to talk about.
Richard III
The production of Richard III was predictably amazing. The sumptuous costumes, stark set, skillful blocking and, of course, superb acting all added up to a masterful production.
Of particular note was the actor playing Richard III, surely one of the most difficult roles to make relatable. Arthur Hughes managed it, first by being very funny.
It’s hard to completely hate someone who makes us laugh. Hughes found comic moments throughout the play. Even at his most vile (and Richard gets pretty vile), Hughes was utterly compelling. Every time he strode on stage, he commanded attention.
Set of Richard III at the RSC theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon
And the second reason why the performance was so memorable was that Arthur Hughes was the first disabled actor the RSC has cast as Richard III.
He describes himself as “limb different” as a result of a rare condition known as radial dysplasia. He has no thumb or radius bone in his right arm. Hughes’s lived experience of disability brought an immediacy to his portrayal of Richard that I’d never seen before.
He was not pretending like so many actors; he knows. Here’s an interview with Arthur Hughes on the BBC website.
All in all, the production was a tour de force.
And if you are lucky enough to take in an RSC performance, get the ginger ice cream at the interval. It is to die for!
Visiting Stratford-upon-Avon
Stratford-upon-Avon is a tourist town and as such is well-endowed with restaurants and places to stay. If you can, stay the night.
Strolling along the canal after an RSC performance that has just blown your mind is a stellar artsy traveler experience!
Eating in Stratford-upon-Avon
Both meals I enjoyed in Stratford-upon-Avon wee first rate! The first was a lunch consisting of two appetizers–a paté and chicken tenders. Both were superb, particularly when accompanied by a lager and eaten in a lovely old pub overlooking the canal.
Duck pate with confit onions
Chili chicken tenders
Stratford-upon-Avon has several pubs and restaurants; you won’t have trouble finding a good meal. I can also recommend the Dirty Duck where many years ago I ate dinner while visiting Stratford-upon-Avon with my brother. Passing it on an early morning walk brought back many memories of our visit and attending a performance of A Winter’s Tale way in 1975.
The Dirty Duck in Stratford-upon-Avon
Welcome to the Dirty Duck
I enjoyed dinner at the Pen & Parchment Inn where I also stayed. The fish and chips (but with salad instead of chips!) were fresh and flavorful. The Inn itself retained just enough of a hint of stale cigarette smoke in the air to remind me of my misspent youth.
Fish and chips in Stratford-upon-Avon
Staying in Stratford-upon-Avon
I stayed at the Pen & Parchment Inn which is also a pub (and where I ate dinner). It’s very conveniently located on the canal and within sight of the Royal Shakespeare Company theatre.
You can walk to the theatre in about five minutes. My room was small but comfortable and the people were very helpful. I’d recommend the place for a one-night stop. It’s quite reasonably priced (for Stratford-upon-Avon).
Pen & Parchment Inn in Stratford-upon-Avon
For other accommodation options in Stratford-upon-Avon, click the map below:
A visit to Stratford-upon-Avon, particularly if you can attend a performance at the RSC, is artsy traveling at its finest! You get to enjoy Shakespeare performed by the best of the best and you get to stroll around one of England’s most attractive towns with plenty of excellent places to eat and stay. It’s a win-win!
Have you visited Stratford-upon-Avon? Share your suggestions and experiences in the Comments below.
At precisely 9 am, a sixteen-seater van pulls up in front of the Pen and Parchment Inn in Stratford-upon-Avon where I stayed the night.
Out jumps the very friendly and knowledgeable Colin. He’s lived in the Cotswolds for 30 years and obviously loves sharing it with visitors. He stows my luggage in the back (I’m leaving for Birmingham at the end of the tour) and ushers me on to the bus.
Off we go! The Go Cotswolds tour included six stops and many, many miles of scenic driving. Colin keeps up a lively commentary, and at every stop goes out of his way to engage with everyone. He’s one of the best guides I’ve ever experienced.
Map of the Go Cotswolds Tour
Here are the places we visited on the map. It’s amazing how much there was to see in a relatively small geographic area!
Our first stop is Dover Hill (#1 on the map above) overlooking a stunning view of the Cotswolds over the Vale of Evesham. On a clear day, the view includes the towers of Birmingham and the foothills of the Welsh mountains.
A bit of mist on the horizon obscures some of the view, but it’s still amazing.
Atop Dover Hill overlooking the Vale of Evesham
Colin tells us that this hill is the site of the annual (apart from the past two years) Robert Dover’s Olimpick Games. And yes, Olimpick is how they spell it!
Guide Colin talks about the Robert Dover’s Olimpick Games on Dover Hill
Events include such quirky activities as shin kicking and cheese rolling. Colin provides lively descriptions and directs us to check out the video proof on YouTube. Here’s a link to one of them.
Colin takes a picture of the tour group on top of Dover Hill before we all pile back into the bus to set off to our next stop.
Go Gotwolds group picture on top of Dover Hill
Chipping Camden
As he skillfully navigates winding country roads, Colin describes how the use of the creamy, butter-colored Cotswolds stone defines the region. In fact, no new buildings may be built out of any other material.
The local government carefully controls all development in the area, which has become a very expensive and fashionable area in which to live. We pass many gorgeous homes, some thatched, some with the iconic grey slate roofs. Each is impeccably maintained.
Maintaining Cotswolds Homes
Colin tells us that a friend paid 75,000 GBP to have his home re-thatched (a necessity every few decades). He also explains that a major effort is underway to train a new generation of craftspeople to tend to all the wonderful old homes in the area.
Young people are encouraged to enter apprentice programs straight out of school to train for a trade that will pay very well and guarantee a lifetime of work.
As a retired educator myself, I am heartened to hear about such skills-based programs.
A Walk through Chipping Campden
Chipping Campden (#2) at 10 am is quiet and peaceful. Colin advises us to take a walk to see a selection of thatched-roof cottages. I take his advice and set off. No one else follows so I’m alone for most of the walk.
Thatched-roof cottages in Chipping Campden
Birds chirping, sun gently shining, a rainbow of flowers spilling forth from every garden, quaint cottages—all boxes ticked.
The walk takes me in a broad circle that leads back to the main street of Chipping Campden. I wander happily up and down the street, admiring the quirky little shops, stopping at a cute little tea room (all the tea rooms are cute; I think it’s a bylaw) for a milky coffee, and checking out the market hall.
Built in the 17th century to provide shelter for market traders, the National Trust now owns the hall which still shelters traders. When I’m there, the goods on offer are primarily sheepskins.
Market hall at Chipping Campden
Snowshill
The tiny village Snowshill (#4) is famous for its gorgeous views and as the setting for an iconic scene in the movie Bridget Jones’s Diary. We are lucky to arrive when no other tourists are around. Unchanged for centuries, the village is a delight. The only sounds are the wind rustling through the trees and the plump cooing of wood pigeons.
I take some shots of the famous village street and hike up a hill to look out over a stunning view of the Severn Vale.
Lovely Snowshill in the CotswoldsChurch at Snowshill in the Cotswolds
Nearby is Snowshill Manor, a National Trust property that includes picturesque gardens and an eclectic collection of toys, musical instruments, clocks, bicycles, samurai armour and more. We didn’t visit, but it sounds pretty cool!
Stow-on-the-Wold
More driving along even more achingly adorable country roads brings us to Stow-on-the-Wold (#5), one of the largest towns in the Cotswolds and our lunch stop. The town is thriving as a result of tourism. There’s a surfeit of ancient pubs and more cute tea rooms and plenty of shops, all of which, according to Colin, are independently owned. Franchises such as Starbucks do not exist in Cotswolds villages which makes a nice change.
Lunch at the Oldest Pub in England
I choose to have my lunch at the Porch House, billed as “the oldest pub in England.” I decide to go there after hearing from Colin that it was established in 947. The phone prefix for landlines on Bowen Island where I live is 947. I love the coincidence!
The Waldorf salad I order is very tasty, loaded with a great many satisfying lumps of local blue cheese, crisp green apple slices, candied walnuts and lots of fresh veggies.
I can’t help comparing the food I’m eating in 2022 to what passed for food in the 1970s when lived in England as a student. First off, we never ate in restaurants which was just as well because we had no money and restaurants were very few and far between in those days. And second, the British had a well-deserved reputation for tasteless food.
I remember sharing meals with my flatmates when I was a student at Reading University (1974-77) and everyone oohing and aahing over a “lovely” plate of cauliflower cheese—brown rice cooked until it turned white and lost every iota of texture, cauliflower cooked until it turned grey, and mild white cheddar (no taste whatsoever) melted in great blobs over the whole. Lovely indeed.
St. Edward’s Church in Stow-on-the-Wold
After lunch, I make a quick photo stop at St Edward’s Church to check out a mystical doorway that many say looks like a portal to another realm. J.R.R. Tolkien certainly thought so. Ancient yew trees flank the doorway which allegedly inspired his Doors of Durin in the Lord of the Rings trilogy.
Doorway into St. Edward’s Church in Stow-on-the-Wold that inspired Tolkien
Driving Backcountry Cotswolds
Back on the bus, Colin takes us down even more back country lanes through the Coln Valley on the way to the town of Bilbury which he says will be crowded (he’s right!). But to counteract the crowds to come, he treats us to a long, meandering drive through some of the most idyllic countryside in England.
The tiny villages look like they haven’t changed in centuries, which is more or less true. No wonder there’s been an exodus in recent years from the big cities to the countryside with the result that real estate prices in the area are now sky high.
Bilbury
It’s a bank holiday Saturday, and thousands of people have converged upon tiny, sweet little Bilbury (6). Described by William Morris as “the most beautiful village in England,” Bilbury really does put the charm in charming.
Arlington Row in Bilbury
Bilbury’s main claim to scenic fame is the row of cottages known as Arlington Row, reputed to be the most photographed and beautiful cottages in the country. People live in the cottages, which must be a challenge in the summer. Hundreds of visitors file slowly past, each hoping to snap a picture of the row without other visitors in the way.
Arlington Row, a charming group of cottages in Bilbury village in the Cotswolds
It’s an impossible task, although like everyone else, I try.
Arlington Row of cottages in Bilbury
The cottages date from 1380 when they were built as a monastic wool store. In the 17th century, the building was converted into a row of weavers’ cottages. A fifteen-minute stroll takes me from the car park alongside the meandering River Coln to the cottages and then back on a lovely shady path next to a boggy water meadow known as Rack Isle. Back in the car park, several ice cream shops beckon. I treat myself to a salted caramel ice cream cone.
Walking toward Arlington Row in Bilbury
Bourton-on-the-Water
Bilbury is positively empty compared to Bourton-on-the-Water (#7), our next and final stop on the Go Cotswolds tour. It’s yet another gorgeous little village with the added attraction of having a river running through the center of the village. People paddle in the shallow water, stroll across the stone bridges, snap photos, eat ice cream, and generally enjoy a day out in the country.
But is is crowded! Fortunately, Colin offers to take anyone interested on a secret walk that promises to get us well away from the crowds in seconds. About eight of us follow him for what proves to be the highlight of the Go Cotswolds tour (which is saying something).
A Secret Walk in Bourton-on-the-Water
We head down a stone-walled side passage to emerge onto an expansive—and virtually empty—water meadow. Birds chips, the wind whispers, the views are entrancing, the crowds a bad memory. Yep—it’s the full on Cotswolds experience and we have it all to ourselves.
Beautiful home in Bourton-on-the-Water
Colin leads alongside a small stream to the house he promises us we’ll all want to buy. He’s right—it’s an old stone beauty set on a bend in the river and even including a gazebo in its back garden. The next time I have a few million pounds to spare, I know where to spend it.
Crowds at Bourton-on-the-Water in the Cotswolds
End of the Tour
An hour later, Colin drops me at Stratford-upon-Avon (#1) train station for my one-hour train journey to Birmingham. My day out in the Cotswolds has been glorious.
If you’re short on time and don’t want to drive, consider taking the Cotswolds-in-a-Day tour with Go Cotswolds. It’s a winner.
Here’s a similar tour also conducted by Go Cotswolds:
Doing London in two days (even with a bit added on after landing on the first day) is kind of insane. London has so much to offer that it deserves a full week.
However, on a recent trip to London, I could spare only two days and so I was determined to pack as much artsy sightseeing into my time as possible.
Even if you’ve never visited London, my two-and-a-bit itinerary will give you a good overview of the highlights.
After getting settled at the Wilde Aparthotel (#1: see my review of this highly-recommended hotel in Covent Garden), I set off for my first artsy stop of my London stay—the elegant Courtauld Gallery at Somerset House.
Map of London Sightseeing
Here are the places I visited in London during my whirlwind two-and-a-bit-days trip in August 2022.
Arrival in London: The Bit of My Two-and-a-Bit Days
Courtauld Gallery
I first visited the Courtauld Gallery (#2) in the 1970s when I came face to face with what would become my favorite Manet painting—A Bar at the Folies-Bergère. I was only 14 years old, and seeing that painting was pretty much responsible for setting me on a course of art loving that continues to this day.
Why Visit the Courtauld
I recommend visiting the Courtauld for two reasons. First, the gallery is small enough to be easily enjoyed in an hour or two without taxing your energy and your legs. And second, it’s bursting at the seams with unbelievably awesome works.
I’ve rarely been to an art museum that includes such a thoughtful and exquisitely curated collection of works, from the middle ages to the Impressionists.
The main draw at the Courtauld Gallery is the beautiful collection of Impressionists that includes all the biggies (Monet, Manet, Renoir, Cezanne, van Gogh, etc.). Several very famous pieces are included, such as Manet’s A Bar at the Folies-Bergère and van Gogh’s Peach Trees in Blossom
A Bar at the Folies-Bergère
A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Edouard Manet
This painting is one of my favorites, and as I write in my full post on the Courtauld Gallery, seeing it in the early 1970s was one of the experiences that set me up as a life-long art lover.
There’s just something about the way in which the central character stares out at us, the audience, that is so compelling. She’s so bored and yet so vulnerable. You can’t help sympathizing with her and imagining what she’s thinking. It’s probably something along the lines of I wish he’d hurry up and give me his order so I can stop pretending to care.
Peach Trees in Blossom by Vincent van Gogh
Peach Trees in Blossom by Vincent van Gogh
My favorite van Gogh paintings are of the landscape around Arles. In fact, the very first van Gogh painting I saw was very similar to this piece in the Courtauld. I was 11 years old, visiting Montreal’s Expo 67 and seeing great art for the first time. The rest, as they say, is history.
Peach Trees in Blossom captures the scene of an open plain outside Arles and was painted in 1889. Vincent wrote to his brother Theo that the blossoms and distant snow-capped mountain reminded him of the cherry trees and Mount Fuji in Japanese prints, of which he was a great collector.
Rest of the Courtauld Gallery Collection
After thoroughly exploring the top floor, I explored the other two floors, both containing many marvelous works. The collection of medieval paintings is one of the best I’ve seen, even in big museums like the Louvre and Vatican.
I ended my joyful visit to the Courtauld with a chat with the friendly attendant in the gift shop. I bought a catalog of the collection and told him how much I loved the Courtauld and how I’d first visited way back in 1970. He was delighted.
Courtauld Gallery Practical Information
The Courtauld Gallery is open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Book your ticket in advance on the website to avoid line-ups and to make sure you get in! Check the website also for special exhibitions. The Munch exhibition I saw was worth the extra price.
First Night Dinner
Dinner was a plate of smoked salmon and fettuccine that was so delicious I wanted to weep all over again. I ate half of it and took the rest back to my room to keep in the fridge until the next day when it tasted just as good.
Scrumptious dinner in London
To bed at 8:30 pm and Day 1 in the UK came to a peaceful close.
First Full Day in London
I started my day at 7 am with a black coffee at one of the ubiquitous Café Nero’s, this one about ten steps from the front door of the Wilde Aparthotel. To my relief, the coffee was superb. Long gone are the days when the only coffee for sale in the UK was beyond inexecrable. Because I spent my early adult years in England in the 1970s, I didn’t develop a taste for coffee until I was 30. Good strong English tea was my beverage of choice for at least a decade.
After an hour of coffee and writing, I returned to my room in preparation for my first full day in London. Because time was so limited, I made reservations for almost everything I planned to do.
Taking the Uber Boat to the Globe Theatre
First stop was a tour of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre (#3). I walked down to the Thames (about five minutes away) and hopped on the boat that took me downriver to Bankside. The skyline of London was unrecognizable even since my previous trip in 2016. Dozens of new, ultra modern buildings gleamed golden in the early morning sun.
Skyline of London in the early morning viewed from the Thames River
Tour of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre
I was early for my tour—the first of the day at 10 am. I had yet another black coffee and eavesdropped on a conversation between three young women who appeared to be about eighteen. One of them loudly informed the others that none of her many boyfriends had ever gotten over her. Currently, she was in the midst of fending off the advances of a boy who kissed her in fourth form (Grade 9) and was spoiled forever for any other girl. Was she arrogant or just supremely self-confident? I couldn’t decide, but I couldn’t help hoping life would treat her well.
At 10 am, I joined about thirty people for the Globe tour. I last visited the Globe in 2007 on a trip with my mother and before that in 2001 with my daughter Julia to see a performance of The Tempest starring Vanessa Redgrave as Prospero. Although the hard seats (even with a cushion) and lack of back support somewhat detracted from the experience, I’m glad I had it!
Outside the Globe Theatre in London
Meeting Our Tour Guide
Our guide joined us—a man in his fifties named Mick. He declared that he is a genuine Cockney and certainly he sounded the part. He was very energetic and obviously loved what he does. The hour-long tour was informative and fun, and in my opinion, well worth the 17 GDP cost.
Outside the Theatre
The tour started outside the theater with Mick telling us why the theaters were built on the south bank of the Thames and not in the city. Apparently, the killjoys in the city didn’t want raucous entertainments sullying the area, and so entrepreneurs like Richard Burbage built the first theatre very close the site of the current Globe. He also talked about Sam Wanamaker, the American billionaire who made construction of the new Globe his life’s work.
Inside the Globe Theatre
We entered the theatre twice—once on the lower level and a second time on the upper level. While on the lower level, Mick provided us with graphic descriptions of the groundlings in Shakespeare’s time. Over 3000 people crammed into a space that now fits 1800 in these days of fire regulations and basic hygiene.
The pit alone, where the groundlings hung out, once fit 1000 people packed in so closely that people could not raise their arms. They were unbathed, boisterous, and very smelly. It cost a penny to get into the pit so if nature called, a groundling urinated in place rather than leave the theatre and then pay another penny to get back in. Shakespeare called the groundlings the penny stinkers.
Inside the Globe Theatre; the stage is set up for a production of I, Joan
On the upper level, Mick talked about how the gentry came to the play to see and be seen. When the Globe Theater opened in 1977, it hosted two queens. “Elizabeth I” rode into the pit on a horse and bowed to Elizabeth II seated in the royal box.
I thoroughly enjoyed the tour and recommend it as a must-do for the theatre-loving artsy traveler.
Shakespeare’s Globe Practical Information
The Globe Theatre is open for tours at specific times and pre-booking is essential. Check the website for details and to purchase tickets, preferably well in advance. From the link above, you can choose from a variety of tours. I took the Globe Theatre Guided Tour.
Tate Modern
After my Globe visit, I went next door to the Tate Modern (#4) to check out the surrealist exhibition and to take a quick tour through the permanent collection, which I’ve visited before.
My husband, Gregg Simpson is an artist (check out his work here) and one of hist paintings from the early 1970s is included in the exhibition catalog, but alas, not in the exhibition itself. The painting is currently in a museum in Spain and as a result of COVID restrictions, wasn’t sent to London or on to New York, where the exhibition goes next to be shown at the Met.
I have to say that the Surrealism Beyond Borders exhibition was not particularly compelling. The commentary was a bit on the didactic side and the quality uneven. I’m not convinced the exhibition was worth the extra cost for anyone other than a die-hard surrealism fan. I wasn’t even compelled to take pictures!
Tate Modern Permanent Collection
I explored the permanent collection at the Tate and, as I have other times I’ve been here, found it uneven. Some rooms were quick walk-throughs; others were worth lingering in, but none for all that long. There were works by most of the most famous 20th-century artists, including Picasso, Mondrian, Leger, and Matisse, but few really iconic ones.
Here are some of the highlights that attracted me.
Gothic Landscape by Lee Krasner
Lee Krasner was both the partner of Jackson Pollock and an excellent painter in her own right. Works by women are still few and far between in most of the major collections, so I was pleased to see that the Tate included a work by Krasner. Although this piece is an abstract painting, its thick vertical lines are apparently intended to invoke trees with thick knotted roots, hence the title Gothic Landscape.
Sleeping Venus by Paul Delvaux
This very famous surrealist work was painted by Delvaux in Brussels during WWII while the city was being bombed. Delvaux said of the painting that “the psychology of that moment was very exceptional, full of drama and anguish. I wanted to express this anguish in the picture, contrasted with the calm of the Venus.” I’d say he succeeded!
I was done in less than an hour. I still prefer the permanent collection of mid-20th-century masterpieces at the Pompidou in Paris to the collection at the Tate Modern.
But if you’ve never visited, definitely go and have a look. The building–a converted power station–is worth seeing, and the price of admission (free!) is worth the walk. But if you’re not a huge modern art fan, I’d recommend spending your time at the Tate Britain instead, where you’ll find several works by the pre-Raphaelites, among others.
Tower at the Tate Modern soaring into the blue London sky
Tate Modern Practical Information
The Tate Modern is open from 10:00 to 18:00 every day and admission is free, except for special exhibitions. Check the websitefor details.
Lunch and the Museum of the Home
The sun shone brilliantly as I walked across the Thames, pausing to take shots of iconic Saint Paul’s Cathedral and the incredibly modern skyline. London sure has changed since I first visited in 1970!
Saint Paul’s Cathedral viewed from the south bank of the Thames The old and the new in London’s financial district
I stopped at a Wagamama (Asian-inspired chain restaurant) for a quick lunch that turned into a very long lunch because my order was forgotten. When finally I got it, the server had the good grace to not charge me. Needless to say, I won’t be back!
Museum of the Home
I took the bus to the Museum of the Home (#5) in Shoreditch which turned out to be a disappointment probably because I missed most of it by going in what was actually the back door. I saw only a few rooms—from the Victorian era, WW1, the 1930s, the 1950s, and the 1990s. It wasn’t worth the long journey. But whatever. Live and learn.
One of the home interiors at the Museum of the Home in Shoreditch
Traveling by Uber in London
To get back to my hotel, I ordered my first London Uber. Unfortunately, I was in the wrong place so the driver eventually drove past and cancelled on me. Uber sent a new driver who took the time to find me. Omar from Somali turned out to be a big talker—nonstop for the half hour trip. He told me that he’s a traditional Muslim, determined that his four children aged 8 to 16 stay on the straight and narrow. He also told me about his business interests in Somalia, his huge extended family, and the recent death of his father.
Back at the Wilde, I had a wee nap and was recharged! Out again at 4 pm, I walked five minutes to the National Gallery.
National Gallery
I love the National Gallery (#6)! I spent an hour wandering from room to room, eyes tearing up as every turn brought new masterpieces before me. All of the biggies from the Middle Ages to the Impressionists are here. I felt very emotional as I kept coming face to face with so much beloved art while also discovering new pieces to admire.
Interior of the National Gallery in London
Here are some highlights.
The Fighting Temeraire by William Turner
The Fighting Temeraire by William Turner
When I was growing up, my dad had a print of this famous piece by Turner hanging in his study. It was one of the first works of art I ever saw as a child. I think he purchased it in London in the early 1960s. I always loved looking at the sky, and so wasn’t surprised when as an adult I discovered that Turner was famous for his depiction of light.
The Bathers by Georges Seurat
The Bathers by Georges Seurat
I’d forgotten this iconic piece by Seurat was in the National Gallery. It dominates a room full of other Impressionist masterpieces. There’s something so timeless about this piece–people relaxing on a fine summer’s day, each lost in their thoughts. But what is the dog looking at?
The National Gallery includes famous pieces by just about every major European artist, including van Gogh, Monet, Michelangelo, and Vermeer, to name a few. It’s a world-class art museum but not as overwhelming as the Louvre, for example. You can easily see the highlights in about an hour.
National Gallery Practical Information
The National Gallery is open from 10:00 to 18:00 every day and until 21:00 on Friday. Admission is free, except for special exhibitions. Check the website for details.
Dinner and a Show
After enjoying the National Gallery, I lingered awhile to enjoy the view over Trafalgar Square (#7). I was reminded of when I ended up in Trafalgar Square at midnight on New Year’s Eve in 1974 when I was eighteen and attending Reading University.
As the year turned to 1975, my friends and I were engulfed by people yelling and celebrating. A very large man grabbed hold of me and kissed me. Needless to say, we quickly escaped. We ran through deserted streets (the tube had already stopped) only to discover that we’d missed the last train back to Surrey where my friend lived.
We ended up spending a cold few hours huddled on a park bench in Green Park. At about 3 am, a bobby came by and ushered us out so the rest of the night was spent in Victoria Station waiting for the first train. I had severe heartburn after sampling my very first Indian curry earlier in the evening, and thought I was dying!
At Trafalgar Square in London
This is Now
My experience of Trafalgar Square on a lovely sunny day about fifty years later after swooning over the masterpieces in the National Gallery was a big improvement over New Year’s Eve 1974.
After enjoying Trafalgar Square and my memories, I headed for The Restaurant (that’s its name, really!) for dinner prior to seeing My Fair Lady. I walked past the place three times before finally finding it. I was the only customer for the theater menu—a fabulous chicken terrine for the starter and trout for the main course. The food was absolutely superb and reasonably priced. I couldn’t understand why no one was there.
My Fair Lady
My first show in London! I took my seat in the dress circle and felt very glad I opted to buy a premium seat. My view was perfect.
My Fair Lady at The Coliseum in London
The show was fabulous (well, of course!). The actor playing Eliza had an amazing voice. She owned the stage every time she opened her mouth. Another stand-out was the actor playing her father Alfred P. Doolittle. The actor playing Higgins managed to escape the shadow of Rex Harrison and was almost sympathetic (no easy matter!). Another stand-out was the actor playing Freddy. He totally killed On the Street Where You Live.
My Fair Lady stands the test of time.
Second Full Day in London
A peal of thunder in the middle of the night heralded a dreary, rainy morning on my second full day in London. I didn’t mind in the least! Armed with a sturdy umbrella provided by the Wilde Aparthotel (I really like this place), I ventured forth (after my coffee at Café Nero) for my first stop of the day—a tour of Westminster Abbey.
Westminster Abbey
I’ve visited Westminster Abbey (#8) several times over the years, and it never fails to impress. I was practically the first person through the door with my pre-purchased ticket for 10 am entry. For almost all of my visit, I had the abbey virtually to myself.
Westminster Abbey
Westminster Abbey facing the altar
Each guest was provided with an audio guide and headphones. Since my last visit in 2016, the audio guide has improved significantly. It was like a mini SmartPhone with a large screen that showed videos to accompany the audio. I listened to and watched every video!
As always, my favorite part of Westminster Abbey was Poet’s Corner. So many great writers were either buried or commemorated there—Chaucer, Milton, Shakespeare, Jane Austen, Dickens… the list goes on. Few other visitors were around and spent many happy minutes strolling from plaque to plaque, memorial to memorial.
Jane Austen’s memorial in Poet’s Corner in London’s Westminster Abbey
As I wandered around Westminster Abbey, I didn’t, of course, suspect that in just a few more weeks it would take the world stage as the setting for the Queen’s funeral.
Wallace Collection
After touring Westminster Abbey, I checked out the Wallace Collection (#9), which was new to me. Housed in a magnificent mansion, the Wallace collection is billed as “an internationally outstanding collection which contains unsurpassed masterpieces of paintings, sculpture, furniture, arms and armour and porcelain.”
Mansion housing the Wallace Collection in London
Yep, that’s about right. I’d rarely seen so much stuff crowded into so many rooms in my life. Wandering through the many, many rooms was kind of like being obliged to eat too much fudge. It’s tasty, sure, but eating too much just kind of makes you feel like you’d rather have toast.
That said, the Wallace Collection is worth a visit, particularly if you’re interested in armor and porcelain. There are numerous magnificent examples.
A display of armor at the Wallace Collection
For me, the special exhibition was more interesting than the permanent collection. Called Inspiring Walt Disney: The Animation of French Decorative Arts, the exhibition illustrated how films such as Cinderella and Beauty and the Beast were heavily inspired by French decorative arts of the 1800s. An excellent audio guide and several animated displays underscored the artistry that went into creating the two iconic films.
One Evening; Two Musicals
With only two full days in London, I opted to cram in three musicals. Fortunately, one of the musicals (Six) started at 5 pm and ran for just 90 minutes so I had time to fit in Jersey Boys, mostly because the Trafalgar Theater is only a five-minute walk from the Vaudeville Theater on the Strand where Six was playing and second, because I’d never seen it (although I did see the movie).
Six: The Musical
Six tells the story of Henry VIII’s six wives – Catherine of Aragon (divorced), Anne Boleyn (beheaded), Jane Seymour (died), Anne of Cleves (divorced), Katherine Howard (beheaded) and Katharine Parr (survived). The “divorced, beheaded, died, divorced, beheaded, survived” riff ran through this exceedingly energetic and highly recommended production.
Each wife—excuse me, each queen—took a turn singing a song to convince us that her life was the saddest of the six. The songs were funny, heartbreaking, poignant, and extraordinarily creative. Outlandish costumes, wacky dancing, and excellent vocals made for a deliciously entertaining 90 minutes.
The six queens in Six take their bows
I emerged from the theater refreshed and ready for more.
Jersey Boys
A quick walk down the Strand past Charing Cross brought me to the Trafalgar Theater, which is, not surprisingly, within spitting distance of Trafalgar Square. Unlike for both Six and My Fair Lady, the theater was not full, most likely because the musical has been playing for several years.
Whereas most of the audience for Six were young women under 35, most of the audience for Jersey Boys appeared to be over sixty, hardly surprising considering the subject.
My seat was cheek-by-jowl with a large English man—a Cockney from London he informed me. Although friendly and chatty, he had a habit of overflowing into my space. Fortunately, several seats to my immediate left were empty so at the interval, I shifted over. I don’t think he was offended, although we never spoke again after I shifted.
Jersey Boys tells the story of Frankie Valli, the falsetto crooner famous for such hits as Sherry, Can’t Take My Eyes Off of You, Walk Like a Man, Big Girls Don’t Cry, and Rag Doll. It was a walk down memory lane for we over-60s and very enjoyable. The actor who played Frankie Valli was fabulous. How he managed to belt those falsetto songs out night after night amazed me. My vocal cords hurt just listening to him.
After two shows, I was famished (no time for dinner!) and so I stopped by one of the many Italian eateries for a plate of shrimp sauteed with peppers (so good and fresh). It was then home to bed and the end of my London adventure.
Tours & Tickets in London
Here are some more tour options in London with Tiqets.com
Walking Tours
Fancy a walking tour? London has many options for walking tours. I can highly recommend the walks hosted by GuruWalks. Here are some options:
Conclusion
Have you traveled to London? What are your suggestions for artsy travelers? Which art museums are your favorites? Share your suggestions in the Comments section below.
I recently visited the Courtauld Gallery within hours of landing at Heathrow after flying to London from Vancouver. After three years away from Europe, I was itching to see great art, and the Courtauld Gallery turned out to be the perfect place to ease my way back into artsy traveling.
It’s small, it’s centrally located, and its collection is exquisite.
The highlights of the Courtauld Gallery are the truly impressive Impressionist collection and the medieval collection.
What is the Courtauld Gallery?
The Courtauld Gallery is part of the renowned Courtauld Institute of Art. This research-led higher education institution is the University of London’s largest community of art historians, conservators and curators. The gallery recently reopened after being closed for three years. The new and improved version is little short of spectacular.
Impressionist Collection at the Courtauld Gallery
Like the vast majority of visitors, I headed first to the top floor to view the Impressionist collection and the special exhibition of paintings by Edvard Munch (see my review of this exhibition). The room containing the Impressionist collection attracts the most visitors and can get a bit crowded.
I walked into the large room containing a delicious collection of Impressionists and immediately had to sit down to prevent myself from falling down and embarrassing myself. What I really wanted to do is laugh out loud and twirl myself past masterpiece after masterpiece, giddy with the beauty surrounding me.
When, finally, I collected myself, I began pacing slowly and reverently past gorgeous painting after gorgeous painting by all the biggies—Monet, Cézanne, Gauguin, Renoir, and on and on.
Here are just a few of the highlights of the Impressionist collection.
Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan by Paul Cézanne
“Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan” by Paul Cezanne
Cézanne painted many views of the countryside surrounding Jas de Bouffan, a rural estate outside Aix-en-Provence owned by Cézanne’s father. Having visited the area, I can attest that Cézanne captures the shimmering quality of the light and the particularly vivid shades of green unique to Provence. My favorite Cézannes are his paintings of the Provence landscapes and this one is a keeper for sure!
Young Woman Powdering Herself by Georges Seurat
“Young Woman Powdering Herself” by Georges Seurat
I’ve long been a fan of Georges Seurat who created the “pointillist” style of painting. He followed newly formulated optical theories by placing colors from opposite sides of the color wheel–orange and blue; pink and green–next to each other to create contrast. Seurat died at age 31 but he left behind some stunning works, this one being his only major portrait.
Self Portrait with Bandaged Ear by Vincent van Gogh
“Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear” by Vincent van Gogh
I couldn’t believe the Courtauld had this piece! It’s one of my favorite van Goghs. I love how he contrasts the various colors–blue hat, green coat, orange face–and also includes the image of one of the Japanese prints he collected. Van Gogh was heavily influenced by Japanese printmaking. He painted this piece in 1889, a week after leaving hospital following the famous incident when he cut off a portion of his left ear after a heated argument with Paul Gauguin. Even injured, van Gogh was determined to keep painting.
The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin
The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin
And speaking of Gauguin, I was thrilled to see this piece which he painted while he was living in Brittany. Gregg Simpson (husband and painter) is currently working on the Pont Aven Suite, a series inspired by Gauguin’s Brittany paintings, so Gauguin has been a regular topic of a conversation in our house. I love how Gauguin simplifies and flattens forms and colors. This piece has so much movement–the women raking hay above and the man driving the oxen below.
A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Edouard Manet
A Bar at the Folies-Bergères by Edouard Manet
Fabulous as all the pieces in the Impressionist collection are, the best of all is my old friend A Bar at the Folies-Bergères by Manet. What a painting!
The young barmaid (the model’s name was Suzon) looks out at the viewer, her expression both bored and vulnerable at the same time. According to the descriptive text next to the piece, “Manet created a complex and absorbing compostion that is considered one of the iconic paintings of modern life.” That is certainly true!
Suzon is every person in the world working in a dead-end job they hate and yet obliged to pretend they enjoy for the sake of the customers.
Medieval Collection at the Courtauld Gallery
After thoroughly exploring the top floor, I began my descent to the other two floors to explore the rest of the Courtauld Gallery’s collection. I was in for a treat as it turned out.
One of my favorite eras for painting is the middle ages, particularly the first half of the 14th century when artists were not worried about perspective and realism. I love the use of gold, the pastel shades of the egg tempera paint the artists used, and the lego-like way in which they depicted medieval buildings.
Well, the Courtauld delivered! To my delight, it houses a lovely medieval collection that includes such notables as Lorenzetti and Duccio—two hometown boys from Siena, my fave Italian city (and one of the settings for The Towers of Tuscany).
As is often the case in art museums, the medieval rooms were pretty much empty so I drifted from painting to painting and admired to my heart’s content.
A highlight is a series of small panels painted by Fra Angelico (1417-1455) that depicts six female saints. Each face is incredibly expressive and compelling. I wonder who Fra Angelico used as models.
Other Highlights of the Courtauld Gallery Collection
After thoroughly exploring and enjoying the large collection of medieval art, I toured the rest of the collection. There’s a fair number of works from the 16th to the 19th centuries, including works by Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Reynolds, and Rubens.
A big selling point of the Courtauld is its compact size and that each piece in the colleciton is stellar. I don’t think I’ve ever visited an art museum where the quality of all the pieces is so uniformly high.
After my visit, I got chatting with the young man in the gift shop. He enthusiastically agreed that the Courtauld’s collection is first-rate and also kindly listened to me rattle on about how I first visited the Courtauld with my mom back in 1970 (likely a good forty years befor he was born!)
Here are two more of my favorites at the Courtauld Gallery.
“Adam and Eve” by Cranach the Elder
“Landscape with the Flight Into Egypt” by Pieter Bruegel the Elder
Courtauld Gallery Practical Information
The Courtauld Gallery is open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Book your ticket in advance on the website to avoid line-ups and also to make sure you get in! Check the website also for special exhibitions. The Munch exhibition I saw was definitely worth the extra price.
Where to Stay in London
Stay as close to the center of London as you can afford. You’ll be able to walk a lot more places that you’ll want to see and you’ll feel like you’re where the action is!
Here are three recommendations:
Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel located right across the street from Victoria Station is a good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.
Wilde ApartHotel just off the Strand is an excellent choice and couldn’t be more central for the West End Theaters. It’s also within easy walking distance of the Courtauld Gallery.
The ParkCity in Kensington is a bit farther off the beaten track but very close to some of my favorite museums, including the Victoria & Albert.
London Tours & Tickets
Here are some options for touring London and buying tickets for interesting museums such as the Design Museum and other attractions.
GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of London!
Conclusion
As my first visit to a world-class art museum in three years, the Courtauld was the perfect choice. It gently eased me back into artsy traveling, doling out artsy hits like small bites of gourmet chocolates—each one more flavorful than the last and yet all equally fabulous.
Have you visited the Courtauld? Which piece was your favorite? Share your experience in the Comments section below.
Here are some more posts about favorite art museums in Europe:
The price is reasonable considering the location, the amenities and comforts are first rate, and the location unbelievable.
I’ve stayed in many places in London over the years, highlights being the ParkCity in Kensington and The Cavendish near Green Park, but never have I stayed in a place as fabulously located and appointed as Wilde Aparthotel, particularly if you, like me, are a theater nut.
Location, Location, Location
From the Wilde Aparthotel at Covent Garden, you can walk to most West End theaters in under five minutes. Two of them are just across the street on the Strand.
After an evening at the theater, nothing kills the post-applause buzz like a long tube ride. I prefer to waltz no more than a few blocks along brightly lit streets thronged with other theatergoers. I especially appreciate the Wilde Aparthotel’s location when I am visiting London alone. Safety first, and for the solo traveler, the area feels very safe.
Value for Money at the Wilde Aparthotel
The Wilde Aparthotel, which is part of a chain owned by StayCity (their other property is at Paddington), has figured out how to provide visitors with a four-star experience in a five-star location at a price that won’t require them to mortgage their homes back home.
They cut corners on unnecessary stuff and spend money on things that directly contribute to customer comforts.
The two most obvious cuts are the lack of a lobby and breakfast service. A lobby is generally a waste of space and food is certainly not hard to come by in this part of London. Several coffee shops are within a five-minute walk of the hotel.
Arriving at the Wilde Aparthotel
Guests walk into a narrow entranceway and go immediately up the elevator to their rooms. Everything is sleek, modern and kind of quirky, befitting a hotel named after Oscar Wilde.
According to a plaque at the entrance, the hotel was opened by Oscar Wilde’s grandson. How cool is that!
An attendant is on duty each time I enter the hotel, always greeting me warmly and asking me if I need anything. Every staff member I encounter during my stay at the Wilde Aparthotel is friendly and professional. I feel like they really want me to have a good stay.
Room Features
My room is pretty tiny, but it has everything I can possibly need including a full kitchen, a desk, a fabulous rainforest shower, a large TV and a very comfy bed. Okay, I have to crawl across the bed and navigate around a million pillows to get to the window so I can open and close the curtains, but that’s not much of an inconvenience.
The room would be small for two people, but it is perfect for one.
My very comfortable bed at the Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden
Free Stuff
The fridge is stocked with free glass bottles of water (with more available whenever needed) and snacks. Yes, you read that right–free.
Unlike every other hotel I’ve ever stayed in, the Wilde Aparthotel does not charge for the contents of the minibar. Gone is the feverish scanning of price lists at 3 am, recoiling at the eye-watering prices and then having to make the agonizing choice between eating dinner the next day and slaking your thirst.
Instead, I pluck a cold, recyclable glass bottle of water and happily chug it down, secure in the knowledge that I can have another…and another.
Kitchen area in the room at the Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden
Room Layout
The space is thoughtfully arranged with lots of little touches like fragrant shampoos and lotions in large refillable bottles, a sturdy umbrella which I needed on Day 2, fluffy towels, and good lighting. Really, it can’t be more perfect.
Back in the day, most affordable accommodation in London consisted of dreary bed-and-breakfasts with bathrooms down the hall, thin towels, lumpy beds, and hideous wallpaper reminiscent of Oscar Wilde’s last words on Earth.
Either that wallpaper goes or I do.
And he did.
What’s Close to the Wilde Aparthotel?
The Wilde Aparthotel at Covent Garden is located on Adams Street just around the corner from the Strand. It’s no more than a five-minute walk from Trafalgar Square, the Thames, and Covent Garden.
Busses ply the Strand constantly to get to wherever you need to go in minutes. For my entire two-and-a-bit days in London, I never needed to take the Underground.
Numerous coffee shops and restaurants are very close by. On my first night, I enjoy a wonderful plate of fettucine and smoked salmon at Uvilo, an Italian place directly across the Strand from the hotel. The portion is huge so I pack up the leftovers to store in my fridge.
The small kitchen is equipped with a microwave and stove so the next day I’m able to heat up the leftovers for lunch. I’ve never had access to kitchen facilities in a London hotel.
I will definitely stay at the Wilde Aparthotel again and can recommend it unreservedly.
An Artsy Traveler is always on the look-out for those magical moments that make traveling so, well, magical.
Guest poster, writer, storyteller, performer (and fellow Bowen Islander!) Tina Overbury shares her experience finding magical moments with trees while participating in a writing program in Dartmoor, England (one of my favorite places!).
Overview
‘Stories don’t enchant, they break spells’ – Dr. Martin Shaw, Director of the West Country School of Myth
I’m fresh back from a week-long summer school program called Tent of the Seven Doors from The West Country School of Myth. Led by storyteller and mythologist Martin Shaw, who is also the founder of the Oral Tradition and Mythic Life courses at Stanford University, the program was located in Dartmoor National Park in the southwest corner of England.
I had just completed a two-week story pilgrimage in Ireland and decided that since I’m so close, I should really hop over to England and tick a story-box I’ve been carrying for a long time.
Who is Dr. Martin Shaw, Director of the West Country School of Myth?
I came across Dr. Martin Shaw’s work seven years ago when my writing partner, Meribeth Deen, sent me an article from Emergence Magazine: Mud and Antler Bone. I swear I listened to that interview fifty times. I used to run to it and then stop it mid-stride, catch my breath and slap my head with: What? What did he say…?
OMGGGGGG – There’s a language for what I see in my head? Other people talk like this?
I didn’t understand then that the way my instrument as an artist works is through ‘thinking’ and ‘hearing’ in mythological terms.
What this looks like for my friends is that I have a rather obnoxious habit (to some) of explaining everything in metaphor. This isn’t because I think I’m all that and a bag of chips, or because I’m trying to hide from being clear about anything. It’s because to me, using symbols and imagery that are thick with textured meaning ARE the closest way I know to speak succinctly.
Communicating Truth
How else can you communicate the complexity of honesty and the truth? Or so says me! And thankfully I discovered this summer during my travels that a gaggle of other story people say so too.
Let me tell you about three magic moments I had with trees in beautiful, mystical Dartmoor.
Magical Moment 1: Finding the Ashes
To provide a context for the magical moments with trees I experienced while walking on the moor, I first need to go back two years to when I wrote a piece called OMYGOD about the women we burned, the babies we buried and the Gods we have worshiped.
As the name sounds, it was a tough piece to write. I didn’t choose to write it, it chose me, and to top it all off, I decided to perform it as a live storytelling piece. However, due to the pandemic, we filmed it instead. All this to say, I had to memorize the damn thing–all 60 pages and 93 minutes of it.
The ‘women we burned’ part – the story that named six Irish women who were burned at the stake for witchcraft – was proving impossible to memorize. I just couldn’t get the words of those women into my body. I tried everything. I walked, I prayed, I asked… I did everything.
The Magical Power of Dreams
Eventually, I engaged in a dreaming session with a healer friend of mine. I saw myself as a birthing aid of sorts. I was in a hut smoothing clay like mud across a dying woman’s chest. She was taking her last breaths post-childbirth and I was placing lavender on her throat. Best as I could make sense, I was helping her transition to the other side. Because of this, the clergy and the officials of the town took me, and I was burned alongside a number of other women for witchcraft.
As dreams can do, I was able to step in and out of places in the story. I didn’t watch myself or the other women burn. Instead, I time jumped to the place where they were all ashes and I was on the outside.
I stood in front of the line of pyres in front of me, and I cried and cried and cried, saying over and over again…
’What happened to the ashes of these women? Who collected their ashes? Who laid them to rest?’
Finding the Story in a Tree
And then I stepped wayyyyyy out and started picking up pieces of wood and laying them in a circle, like a sacred line of acknowledgement of their life, and to mark their death.
Magical Moment 2: Exploring the Landscape of Place
The Tent of the Seven Doors program certainly wasn’t like any other writing class I’d taken. To be fair, it wasn’t a writing class. In fact, I’m not even sure it was a ‘class’, but rather an initiation into the realm of mythical storytelling.
We didn’t learn through cognitive lesson plans with hand-outs or PowerPoints. We didn’t learn through experiences and examples unpacked through journaling or reflections. The truth is, I’m still trying to figure out how we learned, but if I had to guess, I’d have to say that we learned through invitation.
We were invited to step from one world into another.
We were invited through the landscape of place.
We were invited through the imagining that happened with each story.
Each day we would experience a story, and each afternoon or evening we would experience the land.
Connecting with a Lush and Luxuriant Oak
On one such afternoon, I came a gorgeous oak and unlike most of the scarred and barren trees of the moor, she is lush and radiant and there is more limb and branch to her than trunk. She has been reaching toward the sun for a very long time.
I spent some time with her and found myself collecting sticks. I was finishing a story that started with a dream a number of months ago. I acknowledged more women, and I collected more ashes. I placed a circle of sticks around her.
And then that dreamscape story of OMYGOD felt complete. I don’t have much more to say about that other than I knew it was done.
But then…
Magical Moment 3: The Cork Tree Walks with Me
Have you ever seen a cork oak tree? Because I sure hadn’t.
There is a HUGE cork oak by the enormous fire pit at the back of the property where we gathered to close our summer school experience. Seeing that tree made me think that I had just stepped into The Shire from The Lord of the Rings. I had to talk myself out of believing it could walk.
You know when you’re walking down the street and a dog starts to follow you and if you look back he’ll keep following so you have to discipline yourself TO NOT LOOK BACK? Well, that was me.
I mean, how was it going to make it into the house with me? Okay, I know this tree can’t actually walk. But jeeeeeeeeeeez… I swear, this tree was magnificent.
It transported me to a place I have only ever made fun of: the land of affirmation people, the ones who only see the world through the lens of sunshine, rainbows and lollipops.
But there it was.
If Snow White was a real person, she would step out of a little apple-red door with the seven dwarfs following behind, singing Heigh Ho, Heigh Ho…
Check this out (you’ll even hear the cows!) :
The Magic of a Cork Tree
And to touch the bark? I mean the cork… I mean the bark. It is light, like the false front of a western town film set, except this isn’t a facade. It’s a whole damn tree and it has to be hundreds of years old.
She was the antithesis and antidote to all the gloom, grief and burning that had been my journey of mythic trees thus far.
I fully expected unicorns and fairies to pour out of its bark like a clown car filled with magic instead of red-shoed men.
Who knew?
Holding the Light and the Dark
As an artist, I’m comfortable in the darker shades of story. I easily walk the bottom of the ocean while holding hands with the harder emotions. I write pieces to look for hope. I write to discover the color that lives in the shadowy blend of things, but this time, I didn’t have to.
This gorgeous cork oak tree did all the heavy lifting for me.
Learning Community
“In troubled times we can create a culture of resistance and delight. The learning community believes that myth has something vital to say about the condition of both our lives and the earth. That certain stories we need right now arrived, perfectly on time, about five thousand years ago. Central to this is the notion that culture and wildness have experienced an artificial separation, and that both initiation and myth can create what Shaw calls a Culture of Wildness.”
Martin also says: ‘When the center is in crisis, it is only from the edge that the genius comes’. I believe him.
So while these days, there IS a lot to be troubled about…for sure, there is also much to be hopeful for.
Please meet this community of Bards, Storytellers, Eco-Romantics, land-as-church visionaries, fire-dwellers, academics, nurturers and fools.
There is a movement afoot.
And it’s coming from multiple directions.
These are mythic times.
Read about Tina Overbury on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page. Here are some other contributions from Tina and other guest posters to help you get the most of your artsy traveling.
How do you know you’re a writing adventurer? That’s what guest poster, writer, storyteller, performer (and fellow Bowen Islander!) Tina Overbury asked after venturing across the Atlantic to Ireland in July of 2022. Her experiences led her to share these three tips in the hopes that you, too, can become a writer adventurer!
Ready to find out? I know that I definitely want to be a writing adventurer!
How Do You Know You’re a Writing Adventurer?
You are drawn to lush landscapes that you swear are whispering your name.
To make room for more books, you roll your t-shirts and the one pair of jeans you packed rather than fold them.
The stories you might miss if you don’t go are already swirling through your head, and you haven’t even booked your flight yet.
The smell of city, forest, farm and pub grub takes you to all the places and unwritten scenes you’ve collected from around the world.
I just came back from a story-pilgrimage to Ireland, and I have a few tools to offer you from my journey.
What’s a Pilgrimage?
“A pilgrimage is a journey, often into an unknown or foreign place, where a person goes in search of new or expanded meaning about their self, others, nature, or a higher good, through the experience. It can lead to personal transformation, after which the pilgrim returns to their daily life.” – so says Wiki.
That definition just sounds like a regular writing day. To me, the act of communication is more akin to a sacred practice. If you want to be a writing adventurer, throw in some travel to mythically rich places and hell, you might even call it church.
That brings me to TIP #1.
Tip #1: When you Travel, Don’t just Write, Myth-dive
As soon as you step off the plane and place your feet on new soil, you become a writing adventurer! You are entering a multilayered invitation to discover what you don’t know… not what you do know.
Arriving in Ireland
Everyone said to me, ‘Ireland is waiting for you… you will feel you are home… she is magical.’ And on the one hand, they were all totally right. She is undeniably magical.
But on the other, nope – she didn’t feel like home to me at all…not yet, anyway. She felt like a landscape of a zillion mysteries that I hadn’t earned the invitation to hear – yet.
Full disclosure, I work in myth and I have a passion for land-based stories, so for me being a writing adventurer means I spend a lot of time listening, waiting, and following impulses rather than making a list of destinations to check off as a ‘been there, done that.’
Ask Yourself: What’s This Country’s Origin Story?
So truly, and from my heart… the next time you land somewhere new, I invite you to myth-dive. As a writing adventurer, ask:
What is this country’s origin story?
What story does the land hold?
What are its symbols and emblems?
What are its stories?
Because believe me, the stories OF a place want to be heard, seen and known – just as much as you do.
It’s basic attachment theory, really. 😉
Going off the Beaten Track
The writing adventurer isn’t afraid to veer away from the usual tourist sites to find stories.
In our search of Ireland’s origin story, we were all set to visit Newgrange, a Neolithic monument from Boyne Valley, County Meath constructed 5,200 years ago (3,200 BC). It’s older than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids of Giza.
But the idea of lining up, buying tickets, listening to experts and not being ‘free to roam’ didn’t jive with my adventurer’s heart, never mind my writing adventurer’s heart!
So instead, we went to Grianán of Aileach on the upper reaches of Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle.
Grianán of Aileach overlooks the neighbouring counties of Londonderry, Donegal and Tyrone in northern Ireland
Our visit to Grianán of Aileach
As we approached the monument at dusk, with nothing but our voices echoing back to us from the center, it’s like I could hear those whispers of Ireland’s story, and I cried.
The summit of the Grianán looks over the neighbouring counties of Londonderry, Donegal and Tyrone. While this is a restored site from the original which records its destruction in 1101, a tumulus (ancient burial mound) at the Grianán may date back to the Neolithic age, as evidenced by a covered well that was found near the cashel in the early nineteenth century.
Information about Grianán of Aileach in Northern Ireland
While I’d still like to visit Newgrange one of these days, I’m glad I followed my storyheart to Grianán of Aileach. You don’t hear the secrets of a place through the mouth of a tour guide. You hear it from the land.
TIP #2: Go to the Places that Haunt You
My trip to Ireland was a story-pilgrimage because I was trying to make sense of a story I had come across about the Bon Secour Mother and Baby Homes in Tuam, County Galway. The remains of 796 children were discovered buried in an abandoned septic tank under the ground where the home had stood.
I caught the news story that featured the public apology offered by the Irish Prime Minister Micheál Martin and it shook me hard enough to write about it. As I watched his statement, I was haunted by one question: Why is it so hard to say I’m sorry?
That question inspired me to write and film an entire performance piece called OMYGOD during the height of the pandemic.
And then something unplanned happened. On the evening prior to the global screening of OMYGOD, the remains of 215 Indigenous children were found outside the Kamloops Residential School in British Columbia, Canada, only a few hundred kilometers from where I live. The story had come very close to home.
Visit to the Children’s Burial Ground Memorial in Tuam, County Galway
When you write about what haunts you, you’ll find far more meaning beyond the words that actually hit the page.
Saying sorry at the Children’s Burial Ground Memorial in Tuam, County Galway
We found the site, but it wasn’t easy. Google actually has a ‘pin’ dropped where it thinks it is but it’s not in exactly the right spot, and took us to a rather large cemetery. We walked for a while and couldn’t find what we assumed would be a large monument to the 796 children. But no. It wasn’t going to be that easy. Finally, we asked someone and she pointed us in an entirely different direction.
“Outside the graveyard. Down two blocks. Between two rows of houses. Within a blocked-off courtyard and taped-off playground. You’ll find it there.”
And we did.
Tip #3 – Buy The Damn Hat
Okay, so this is a silly one, but it’s legit. Buy the damn hat. It’s the one you think you can’t afford, but you want it just the same. That was me.
I picked up the hat and then put it down.
I walked away from the hat and then I walked back.
The little voice in my head told me it was ‘too much’ for my budget.
But then I saw myself heading back home on the plane without the hat…. And well, this is me and the hat guy at Beflast’s St. George’s Market.
I buy the hat
Do it. Just buy the damn hat!
What Else Should a Writing Adventurer Do?
Well, after you buy the damn hat, here are some more tips!
Bonus Tip #1: Stay in the weird places you have to look for to find. Our favorite AirBNB stay was in County Roscommon with Fiona.
Bonus Tip #2: Wear the shoes that let you keep walking until you don’t feel lost anymore.
The spectacular beaches of Ireland
Bonus Tip #3: Choose to talk to ALL the people, like, all of them (even the Irish Traveller who has just been released from prison and grew up in the circus – not even kidding a little bit).
Bonus Tip #4: Eat the caramel, shortbread crust, custardy gooey dessert thing made by the guy’s mom who owns the coffee stand, and then eat it again because it’s that damn good. (FiFi’s coffee in Donegal is da bomb!).
Fiffi’s Coffee in Donegal – just go!
Bonus Tip #5: Don’t settle for places that feel boring to you. Wait until you find that dark doorway that you can’t pass by – and then go in. It might be the ghosts of three Irish writers calling you in for a spot of whiskey (Go to Garavan’s Whiskey Bar and order the Irish Writer’s Tasting Platter).
Enjoying a whiskey tasting
And I could go on and on… but all I’m really trying to say is:
The impulse that made you want to go on a trip is trying to tell you something, and you can’t hear it if you’re not listening.
So go.
Do the things.
Listen to the story of a place.
Follow the wild impulses you can’t ignore.
And buy the damn hat.
Read about Tina Overbury on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page. Here are some other contributions from guest posters to help you get the most of your artsy traveling.
A three-day visit to Venice gives you a flavorful taste of this float-on-water, impossibly beautiful city.
I love Venice and go there as often as I can. In three days, you won’t see everything, but you’ll see a fair bit and, most importantly, you’ll whet your appetite (forgive the pun!) to return.
My suggestions for three days in Venice include plenty of time for slowing down and enjoying yourself. You can’t see everything, so don’t even try. Instead, focus on my suggested artsy highlights and still have plenty of energy left over for wandering.
Venice is probably the most “wanderable” city I’ve ever visited.
Definitely avoid popping into Venice for a day, or worse, an afternoon. It’s better not to visit at all than to end up being jostled around Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) with thousands of other sweaty, rushed tourists.
You’ll come away with a negative view of Venice, and that would be a terrible shame!
I’ve met people who visited Venice for an afternoon from a cruise ship and couldn’t say anything good about the place, calling it hot, crowded, rude, and over-hyped. That makes me want to weep!
Venice is so much more than over-priced coffees on the St. Mark’s Square and gondola traffic jams on the Grand Canal.
It’s wandering dark calles late at night when the only sounds are your footsteps on the cobblestones and the swish of water against stone.
It’s early morning strolls to take photos of the peculiar Venetian light glinting off bobbing gondolas.
It’s a bar hop to sample bàcari and cicchetti and maybe even meet a few Venetians.
It’s quiet canals gleaming in the late afternoon sun with nary another human soul in site.
And it’s full of wonderful, heart-breakingly lovely art.
Why I Love Venice
Of all the cities I’ve been to, Venice is my favorite. The first time I visited, I couldn’t stop laughing for the first fifteen minutes of our ride on the vaporetto (water bus) from the train station along the Grand Canal to our hotel.
I just couldn’t believe that such a place existed on Earth, that Venice was real.
But Venice is real, and Venice is special.
Quiet side canals glimmer in the luminous Adriatic light, buildings with exotic facades slowly sink into the mud, world-class museums and art galleries abound, peaceful piazzas and bustling piazzas beckon, gondolas glide and water taxis and water busses churn up and down the Grand Canal, and the music of Vivaldi wafts into the night air.
A quiet side canal in Venice
When to Visit Venice
In recent years, my favorite city was become horribly overcrowded. Massive cruise ships dock within sight of the Grand Canal and the cafés on the Piazza San Marco take rip-offs to a whole new level.
That said, go to Venice. Just be strategic about how and when you visit.
Floods in winter are often a serious problem, and summers can be hot and crowded.
I’ve stayed in Venice in both spring and autumn and recommend both seasons. You’ll still encounter crowds, but the weather will be bearable. Just bring lots of mosquito repellent!
A Three-Day Venice Itinerary
Here’s how I suggest you spend your time as an Artsy Traveler with two full days and three nights in Venice.
Day 1 in Venice
Arrival in Venice
Arrive around lunchtime and make your way to your hotel. If you’re driving, park in the Tronchetto Car Park. The rates are fairly reasonable and the car park has a station on the Venice People Mover, an automated tramway that takes you quickly into Venice.
People Mover station near Tronchetto Car Park in Venice
I wouldn’t waste time parking on the mainland. You’ll save a bit of money, but you’ll also waste a fair bit of time getting into Venice itself. Save your energy for sightseeing! Here’s a comprehensive overview of parking options in Venice.
If you’re taking the train, you’ll arrive at the train station and then, depending on where your hotel is located, hop on a vaporetto–the Venice version of a bus.
Getting Around Venice
The two main ways to get around Venice is by riding the vaporetto–a quintessentially Venetian experience–and walking. You could also take water taxis, but they are super expensive.
I’ve only taken one once from my place near the Grand Canal back to the Tronchetto Car Park at the end of a week in Venice to attend one of Gregg’s art exhibitions. We had a large box of his paintings in addition to our luggage and did not want to wrangle everything on to and off the people mover.
A sleek and stylish water taxi may be worth the splurge if you have lots of luggage
Sometimes, saving your legs and your sanity is worth the extra cost of a water taxi. But most of the time, you’ll get everywhere you need to go in Venice either by walking or by taking the vaporetto. Also, even when it’s packed to the gunnels, a ride on the vaporetto is fun!
Buy Tickets in Advance for the Vaporetto
A single ride on a vaporetto costs €9.5! That’s waterway robbery. Fortunately, you can buy a City Pass from the Venezia Unica website CityPass website that includes public transit and entrance to various Venice sites or you can just buy a transit pass for one, two, three, or seven days.
A vaporetto on the Grand Canal in Venice
I suggest buying the three-day pass and using it on Days 1, 2, and 3. On the morning of Day 4 when you’re making your way back to your car, either walk, depending on where you’re staying, or splash out for a single ticket.
I bought a seven-day travel card for €60. Since my apartment was close to the Grand Canal, I used the vaporetto several times a day to get around and to travel to Burano and Murano. Buy the Venice Travel Card at the ticket-vending machines located at the largest vaporetto stops or online before you arrive (most convenient).
And depending where you’re staying in Venice, you may not even need to ride the vaporetto. On my latest trip, I stayed at the San Teodoro Palace right next to the Rialto Bridge, which is about as central a location as you can get. I was able to walk everywhere I wanted to go.
Areas to Stay in Venice
I suggest you stay in the Dosoduro area across the Grand Canal from Piazza San Marco or the area between the Rialto Bridge and the train station. I’ll talk more about hotels later. For now, drop your bags if your room isn’t ready and set out for your first stop.
Activities on Day 1 in Venice
Here’s what you’ll have time to do on your first afternoon and evening in Venice:
Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum
Walk to and cross the Rialto Bridge
Visit Piazza San Marco as the sun is setting and the crowds have thinned
Take a traghetto back across the Grand Canal
Dine at a small trattoria near your hotel
Here are the details!
Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum
I seriously love this museum. Located right on the Grand Canal and accessed from the Dosoduro district, the Peggy Guggenheim Museum is a must-see for modern art lovers. Peggy Guggenheim was quite the gal in her day. She knew just about every famous modern artist in Europe in the 1930s and 1940s and amassed an amazing collection of their art.
You’ll find works by Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian.
The museum is located in Peggy’s renovated Venetian palazzo. Wander the cool halls to revel in the fabulous collection and then go outside to enjoy a stunning panoramic view of the Grand Canal.
On your first day in Venice, this really is the place to come to get your first Venetian hit.
In front of the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice
You can buy advance tickets (recommended in peak season) here.
Cross the Rialto Bridge
The Rialto Bridge is one of Venice’s most iconic sites and as such it is often heaving with tourists. Avoid crossing it during the day, but definitely cross it at least once or twice during your visit to Venice.
Since it’s one of the very few bridges across the Grand Canal, you can’t miss it!
The Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal is often very crowded
Visit Piazza San Marco
Take your time and wait until the sun is setting and the crowds have dissipated, and then make your way to Piazza San Marco. Called the drawing room of Europe by Napoleon, the Piazza San Marco lives up to the hype, even when seething with tourists.
But it’s better when it’s not too crowded.
Another option is to visit it very early in the morning (see my suggestions for Day 3) or late at night after dinner to really see and appreciate it.
In the evening, you can dance to the music coming from the posh cafés that line both sides of the piazza. Scare away a few pigeons and enjoy.
I have occasionally splurged on a cup of coffee at one of the cafés (the prices are truly eye-watering), but the people-watching is worth the price and hey, you’re in Venice.
Piazza San Marco on a rainy evening
Take a Traghetto Back Across the Grand Canal
You have to ride a traghetto at least once while you’re in Venice. These fairly large and plain gondolas ferry people across the Grand Canal from various points.
One option is to catch it from the Santa Sofia boat pier not far from Piazza San Marco and go across to the Rialto Fish Market. The ride is fast, cheap, and great fun.
It’s not exactly a replacement for a “real” gondola ride, but it’s a great budget option, and at least you can say you rode in a gondola.
On the other hand, I do suggest you splurge on a gondola ride (see Day 3 suggestions).
Dine at a Small Trattoria
Check restaurant reviews and find a small restaurant near where you are staying. Avoid the more touristy restaurants at or near Piazza San Marco.
My most memorable meal in Venice was at La Zucca, a small osteria on a side canal on the Dorsoduro side of the Grand Canal. Get reservations in advance (advisable everywhere in Venice) and enjoy!
Day 2 in Venice
On your first of two full days in Venice, use your morning energy for sightseeing (fewer crowds) and then spend the afternoon on Murano. Here’s what I suggest:
Visit the Accademia Gallery
Visit Murano for a glass-blowing demonstration and to shop for glass
Go to a concert of baroque music in the evening
Here are the details!
Activities on Day 2 in Venice
Visit the Accademia Gallery
You’ll find plenty of Renaissance and Baroque biggies in the Accademia in Venice (Gallerie Accademia). Works by such masters as Veronese, Tiepolo, Bellini, and Titian grace the walls of this very walkable and enjoyable museum. It’s not too big and in my experience isn’t usually that crowded.
That said, get tickets in advance to avoid line-ups, just in case. Check the gallery’s website for details. Or consider a private art & culture tour in the Dosodoru. Here’s an option from GetYourGuide:
Using your vaporetto pass, hop on the vaporetto for a trip across the lagoon to the lovely island of Murano. It’s quite a long voyage and the lagoon can be choppy.
If you can, snag a seat outside to guard against seasickness.
Murano is the glass-blowing island and allegedly the best place to buy the distinctive Venetian blown glass. There are certainly plenty of shops there and the prices do seem to be a bit more reasonable than the prices at the tourist joints in Venice itself.
Enjoy a Glass-blowing Demonstration
Upon arrival, head for a glass-blowing demonstration. It’s put on for the tourists, and our hand-scarred guy looked kind of bored as he dutifully blew, rotated, heated, and smashed a variety of glass ornaments.
But I enjoyed the demonstration and recommend it to see how glass blowing is done.
Glass blowing is big business on the Venetian island of Murano
Browse the Shops
Make your way down some fairly nondescript streets to the main shopping street bisected with a small, straight canal arched over with several small bridges. On both sides of the canal, shop after shop after shop marched a good three blocks in both directions—each one crammed to the ceiling with glass.
Colorful main drag on the island of Murano
Dozens of storefronts twinkle with heaps of glittering, glaring, glinting glass—swoopy vases and finely spun figures, paperweights, pendants, chandeliers, glasses, earrings, pitchers, plates, bowls, beads.
Every store advertised that their glass is authentic, made on Murano, not in China like 80% of all the other glass for sale in Venice.
Enjoy Lunch Along the Canal in Murano
After shopping, enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of the canalside restaurants in Murano and then hop back on the vaporetto to return to Venice.
After your trip to Murano, either relax in or near your hotel for the afternoon or just keep wandering. Venice is endlessly fascinating.
I love strolling alongside the canals, never knowing what’s around the next corner. Sometimes, I find a bustling street, at other times, nothing is moving except a cat stretching on a boat moored in the canal.
Gregg loved our visit to Murano and created several pieces inspired by glass blowing. Here’s my favorite (also featured in our collaboration Pastel & Pen: Travels in Europe):
“Murano” inspired by Murano blown glass by Gregg Simpson
Attend a Concert of Italian Baroque Music
A highlight of a trip to Venice is attending a concert of Italian baroque music. Vivaldi is the hometown boy here and you shouldn’t have much trouble finding a concert featuring his Four Seasons. by Italian baroque
One concert we attended was held in a baroque church with a ceiling painted by Tiepolo.
Look online for concert schedules and purchase tickets in advance if you can. Afterwards, float out into the warm Venetian evening (depending on the time of year!) and find another small trattoria for dinner.
And after dinner,keep wandering. Getting lost after dark in Venice is one of Europe’s best travel experiences.
In fact, I put getting lost in Venice at the top of my list of must-do activities because first, getting lost is unavoidable (even with GPS on your phone), and second, you’ll never be lost for long.
Some of my fondest Venice memories are of strolling alongside dark canals in the evening (violent crime is very rare in Venice), not knowing if I was going in the right direction and not caring.
Sign pointing to San Marco in Venice
Venice is an island; you can’t fall off. With the world asleep and the crowds long gone, Venice at night is one of the most magical places on Earth.
Walk until you come to one of the ubiquitous signs pointing to San Marco or Rialto or Ferrovia (train station) and get your bearings. You could also ask someone for directions, but chances are they’re tourists and also lost.
Day 3 in Venice
Get going bright and early to take in two of the most iconic sites of Venice, again before the crowds start to gather. Here’s an overview of Day 3:
Tour the Duomo and the Doge’s Palace
Wander and get lost some more
Take a gondola ride after dark
Activities on Day 3 in Venice
Tour the Duomo and Doge’s Palace
Both are crowded, and both are must-sees. Get your tickets ahead of time and go early or late. Several times I’ve bypassed long lines of hot and tired tourists waiting to get into the Doge’s Palace.
Breeze past them with your pre-purchased ticket.
The sumptuous public rooms of the Doge’s Palace will show you just how powerful Venice was back in the day.
A more sobering attraction are the dungeons reached by crossing the Bridge of Sighs, so called because prisoners who crossed it got their last glimpse of the world before being shut away and usually executed. Cheerful stuff.
Bridge of Sighs at night in Venice, Italy.
Leave Piazza San Marco before it gets too crowded and spend the afternoon wandering the back streets. Shop for souvenirs if you haven’t already bought your quota in Murano, relax at a sidewalk cafe in a small piazza, watch the people go by, and enjoy life.
What’s the hurry? You’re in Venice!
Take a Gondola Ride at Dusk
Yes, it’s expensive and kinda touristy but it’s also super romantic and relaxing. You’ll be taken into canals you may not have seen from the street, and if you’re lucky, you’ll hear a few gondoliers break into song.
Occasionally, I’ve seen gondola traffic jams. To avoid them (not at all romantic!), go later.
Gondolas bobbing on the Grand Canal in Venice
At the time of writing, a daytime gondola ride costs 80 Euros for 40 minutes. After dark, the price rises to 100 euros, but in my opinion, going at night is the best.
Six people fit in a gondola so you could share, depending on who you are with and whether romance is on the cards!
Here is Gregg and me on one of two gondola rides we’ve taken during our trips to Venice. We loved every minute of it!
Tours of Venice
Here’s a selection of artsy sightseeing options in Venice with links to fast-track tickets.
Walking Tours of Venice with GuruWalks
How about a walking tour of Venice? GuruWalks has some good options:
Staying in Venice
Venice deserves at least three nights and preferably more so you can settle in and enjoy being a temporary Venetian. If time allows, rent an apartment and stay for a week.
My most cherished memories of Venice are the ten days I spent there a few years back while Gregg had an exhibition of his paintings in a gallery overlooking the Grand Canal.
Poster for exhibition of Gregg Simpson’s work in Venice
Paintings featured in the exhibition by Gregg Simpson
I spent hours just wandering the city, staying well clear of the heaving masses in Piazza San Marco and taking my time getting to know this most extraordinary city.
For the apartment stay, I chose a place just off the Grand Canal about a five-minute walk from the train station. The neighborhood was quiet and close to a piazza that every evening spilled over with local Venetians enjoying the air and watching their children play.
If you have the time, rent an apartment in Venice and stay for a week. Live like a local, not that you’ll see many locals these days. Venetians are moving out of the city at an alarming rate. But at least you’ll experience shopping in tiny local grocery stores and get to know your way around a neighborhood.
As mentioned earlier, consider staying in the Dorsoduro district across the Grand Canal from the Piazza San Marco. I recommend you avoid the area immediately adjacent to Piazza San Marco. Hotels there can be expensive, and the tiny streets in the area are wall-to-wall tourists during the day.
Accommodation Suggestions
Here are suggestions I’ve stayed in Venice.
San Teodoro Palace: This one-bedroom apartment is huge by Venice standards and located steps from the Rialto Bridge in a very lively and touristy area.
Ca’ Mirò: Settle into this two-floor apartment in a quiet area of Venice not far from the train station and become a temporary Venetian. It’s gorgeous.
Hotel Canaletto: We stayed there a few years ago and loved it. The rooms were small, but that’s par for the course in Venice. The location, just 200 meters from Rialto Bridge, was fantastic as was its situation on a charming side canal.
Hotel Messner is a more modest option, located in the Dorsoduro neighborhood close to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. It was quiet, and the area was peaceful and uncrowded, particularly at night.
For other options in Venice, check the map below. Resist the temptation to stay on the mainland. The savings will be minimal once you take into account train fares and your time.
Stay in the middle of Venice and enjoy this unique city.
Include Venice in your trip to Italy if at all possible. With a bit of planning and some strategic dodging, you can easily avoid the crowds and find plenty of peaceful areas to enjoy.
Venice is a city for dreaming. Give her time and she’ll reward you.
Looking to travel elsewhere in Italy? Here are some more posts to check out:
You have ten days to spend in France? If it’s your first visit, then I suggest you focus on two locations: Paris & Provence.
The ten-day itinerary presented in this post is designed to allow you to explore these two iconic destinations in France at a reasonably leisurely pace.
France is a large country and best savored by spending at least two days in each place you plan to visit.
Overview of 10-Day France Itinerary
Here’s an overview of an itinerary that provides you with a taste of fabulous Paris (just enough to make you want to return!), four days split between two of the most scenic areas of Provence, and finally two days of sun and fun on the Riviera.
Days 1 to 3: Arrive in Paris on Day 1 and spend three nights in Paris, leaving on the morning of Day 4.
Days 4 and 5: Take the TGV to Avignon, pick up a rental car at the TGV station and drive east into the Luberon. Spend two nights in Rousillon or Gordes for a super Provence hit.
Days 6 and 7: Drive to Aix-en-Provence and spend two nights there; explore nearby Arles, Les Baux-de-Provence, or the Camargue.
Days 8 to 10: Drive to the coast and spend two nights in Antibes, Vence, or Cannes. Drop off the car at Nice airport and fly home.
Following are my suggestions for what to see in Paris and the South (particularly artsy sites!) and some recommendations for accommodations.
Three days in Paris is nowhere near long enough to fully enjoy one of the world’s most fabulous cities, but it is long enough to explore most of the big bang sites.
I’ll get to sightseeing suggestions in a minute, but first, consider where you wish to put down temporary Parisian roots. To my mind, making sure you stay in an interesting part of Paris is almost as important as seeing the sights.
Find an interesting Parisian neighborhood to settle in, even if only for a few days
Choosing Your Parisian Neighborhood
Before and after you go touring around the city, you want to be able to walk to great restaurants and cafes, enjoy people-watching, and have quick access to the Seine for long, leisurely evening strolls to see the lights.
My preferred neighborhoods to stay in Paris are the sixth, fourteenth, and fifth arrondisements (in that order) on the Left Bank.
Yes, you can save money by getting a hotel near the péripherique (the multi-lane ring road that circles Paris) and then taking the Métro into Paris for sightseeing, but don’t succumb to the temptation unless your budget is really tight.
A few times over the years, I’ve stayed at soulless chain hotels on the edges of Paris, and each time it was a mistake.
I may have saved a few Euros, but I also wasted too many hours getting to and from the cool areas of Paris.
Instead of ending each evening watching the illuminated bateau mouches glide along the Seine with the sparkling Eiffel Tower in the distance before tumbling a few minutes later into a warm bed, I endured long, rattling Métro rides followed by quick walks through some pretty sketchy neighborhoods.
Like all major cities, Paris has its fair share of dreary, and sometimes even unsafe areas, I’m sorry to say, and while you can still find some nice places to eat and enjoy Parisian street life out by the péripherique, I’d stick with the arrondisements closest to the river and the Île de la Cité.
If you’re in Paris for longer than a few days, consider renting an apartment.
I’ve stayed in some great apartments in Montparnasse, the Marais, and Saint-Germain. But for short stays, I almost always head for the fifth and sixth arrondisements on the Left Bank, and ocassionally the 14th arrondisement.
Where to Stay on the Left Bank
Sixth Arrondisement
Sometimes referred to as Luxembourg because it contains the Luxembourg Gardens, the sixth arrondisement is probably still the area in Paris I most like to stay in. In recent years, it’s gotten very chi-chi and can be a bit touristy and expensive, but I still love wandering its narrow streets, window shopping and finding great little cafés to while away an afternoon.
I like the area so much that I had the heroine of my novel Love Among the Recipes rent an apartment on rue Bonaparte right across the street from Les Deux Magots, one of the most famous cafés in Paris.
Back in the day, French intellectuals such as Simone de Bouvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre discussed philosophy in Les Deux Magots and its equally historic neighbor the Café de Flore.
Nowadays the prices for a café crème at either place might make you weep, so walk a few blocks toward the Luxembourg Gardens and you’ll find more reasonable and less crowded alternatives.
Here’s a great choice in the sixth arrondisement.
Hotel de L’Universite
The Hotel de l’Université is a reasonably-priced (for Paris) hotel is on a quiet side street in the sixth arrondisement, a few blocks from the lively area around rue Bonaparte and Boulevard Saint-Germain.
I stayed there for three nights and loved the neighborhood, which is quintessentially Parisian and not too touristy. I spent many happy hours writing and people-watching at a cafe on the corner of the Boulevard Saint-Germain and Rue du Bac (where there’s also a convenient Metro station) about a three-minute walk from the hotel.
The staff was great, the beds comfy, and the location quiet but still central.
Fourteenth Arrondisement – Montparnasse
A little farther south past the Luxembourg Gardens is Montparnasse, another cool and less touristy area to stay.
Back in the 1920s, Montparnasse was the haunt of artists, including Giorgio de Chirico, Amedeo Modigliani, Vassili Kandinsky, Max Ernst, Joan Miró, and Alberto Giacometti. For that reason alone, I enjoy staying in Montparnasse.
It’s a few Métro stops away from the Seine, but within walking distance of the Luxembourg Gardens. The area abounds with cool restaurants such as La Rotunde on Boulevard Montparnasse where many artists and intellectuals congregated back in the day.
Hotel prices can also be a little bit more reasonable in this area.
Hôtel A La Villa des Artistes
I recommend the Hôtel A La Villa des Artistes, which is the first hotel I stayed in on my first trip to Paris with my family when my daughter was eight years old.
Located close to the Vavin Metro, the hotel is also a short walk to the Luxembourg Gardens where my daughter spent many happy hours in a smartly designed playground.
Fifth Arrondisement
I also enjoy staying in the fifth arrondisement near the Boulevard Saint Michel. Like the sixth, the fifth is one of the oldest areas of Paris with plenty of winding side streets and one of my favorite museums, the Cluny.
Hôtel Le Clos Médicis
I recommend the Hôtel Le Clos Médicis which has a great location about a block from the Luxembourg Gardens near the Boulevard Saint Michel.
The rooms are pricey and quite small but very well-appointed and comfortable.
Comfortable lobby in Hôtel Le Clos Médicis
Search for more hotels in Paris. Also check out my post about finding accommodation in France for general tips about finding good places to stay.
What to See in Paris
Where to start? On a three-day visit to Paris, I recommend the sites described below. I suggest checking out two or at the most three each day and then leaving plenty of time for wandering around your new neighborhood, sipping coffee in cafés and going out for dinner.
Eiffel Tower
Yes, it’s touristy and over-priced and super crowded, but you have to go up the Eiffel Tower at least once. I recommend going at night when the crowds are considerably less and the views are just as breath-taking.
Buy tickets in advance from the official website or consider a package that includes dinner:
The Louvre is massive, over-crowded, expensive, and magnificent.
The key to visiting the Louvre with ease is to focus on one or two areas at most. There’s a great deal of art in the Louvre, and while all of it is amazing, some pieces are more amazing than others.
A visit to the Louvre is a must-do in Paris for art lovers
When you enter the pyramid and descend the escalator to the center of the Louvre, you’re faced with three wings: Sully, Richelieu, and Denon.
Most visitors make a beeline for the Denon wing because that’s where some of the most famous artworks in the world are displayed, including the Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci.
Unless you have a burning desire to stand in a massive crowd bristling with pickpockets so you can peer over the tops of heads to see a tiny, glass-enclosed painting on a single wall, I’d give Mona a miss.
If you do want to see her, arrive early, or drop by just before the museum closes.
Suggested Way to Enjoy the Louvre
A better and less headache-inducing option is to head for the far end of the Denon wing and work your way back.
You’ll pass several remarkable pieces, including The Raft of the Medusa by Géricault, Autumnby Giuseppe Arcimboldo, Liberty Leading the People by Delacroix, Saint John the Baptist by Leonardo da Vinci, and La Grande Odalisque by Ingres (one of my faves).
Depending on your interests, you may also want to take a quick walk through the Greek, Roman, and Egyptian Antiquities in the Sully wing. The key to enjoying the Louvre is to pace yourself. You absolutely cannot see all of it in one visit.
Visiting the Louvre
You must book a time-slot to visit the Louvre. Check the website for details. The museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm daily except Tuesdays.
Another good option for art lovers is to take a guided tour. This Masterpieces Tour with Reserved Access is a good option from GetYourGuide:
The exquisite Sainte-Chapelle on the Île de la Cité is still one of my all-time favorite Parisian sites. I make time for a visit every time I go to Paris. Its other-worldly beauty will literarlly stop you in your tracks. Guaranteed.
The best way to see and really enjoy Sainte-Chapelle is to get tickets for a concert. You’ll experience its awesomeness without crowds while soaring to the heavens on the wings of sublime music.
For me, a perfect Parisian evening starts with a 7 pm concert at Sainte Chapelle followed by a walk across Île de la Cité to enjoy dinner on medieval Île Saint Louis. Check out this website to buy concert tickets.
Sainte-Chapelle is open from 11 am to 7 pm and reservations are required. Get tickets for priority access.
Notre Dame Cathedral
After the devastating fire in 2019 and five long years of reconstruction, Notre Dame Cathedral is again open to the public. I can’t wait to see it when I visit Paris again in 2025. Notre Dame has long been one of my favorite cathedrals in Europe.
The cathedral is free and open to all. However, you can reduce your waiting time by booking your access online. Here’s the link: Reservation.
The Musée d’Orsay
I love visiting the Musée d’Orsay maybe even more than the Louvre. It’s a little less crowded and not nearly so large.
It also displays some of the most-loved works of art by Manet, Morisot, van Gogh, Monet, and a lot more. To avoid the crowds, buy your tickets in advance and go early in the day or go on a Thursday evening when the museum is open until 9:45 pm (last entrance one hour before closing).
Head first for the fifth floor so you can enjoy the most popular paintings accompanied in relative peace.
Take your time wandering from room to room and then stop by the café behind the large clock–the original from when the Musée d’Orsay was a train station.
The Musée d’Orsay is on the Left Bank in Paris
Here’s an option for a guided tour of the Musée d’Orsay:
If you are a fan of mid twentieth-century modern art, then the fourth floor of the Pompidou Centre is your happy place. In room after room after room, you’ll see masterpieces by modern painters including Matisse, Pollock, Miro, and a lot more.
The area around the Pompidou Centre is also fun, particularly the Stravinsky Fountain. Linger for awhile to people watch.
Stravinsky Fountain near the Pompidou Centre
Buy tickets in advance to avoid line-ups to the Pomipdou Centre, which is open every day except Tuesdays from 11 am to 8 pm.
Quai Branly Museum
Also known as the Musée du Quai Branly Jacques Chirac, the Musée Quai Branly deserves a place on your Paris itinerary if you are interested in art and objects created by indigenous cultures from around the world.
The collection is displayed in four distinct areas representing Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas.
Plan to visit the Branly on the day you visit the Eiffel Tower. It’s within walking distance and is one of the few other noteworthy sites in the Eiffel Tower area.
If you’re in Paris on a Thursday, visit the museum around 6 or 7 pm (it’s open until 10:00 on Thursdays), go up the Eiffel Tower to see the sunset and the lights (depending on the time of year), and end with dinner at a restaurant in the area.
There are not a huge number of restaurants in that area, so check before you go and make reservations to avoid long, hungry walks up and down the relatively restaurant-free streets.
The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 7:00 pm (Thursdays until 10:00 pm). Get tickets in advance to book your time slot and avoid lines.
The Orangerie
Monet’s waterlily paintings take center stage at The Orangerie and are well worth a visit (go early or late to avoid crowds).
The Orangerie makes a nice stop after spending a few hours in the Tuileries Gardens watching the world go by. Get tickets in advance.
Tuileries near the Orangerie in Spring
Paris has many more amazing museums in addition to the Big Three (Louvre, d’Orsay and Pompidou). If you have time, you’ll be spoiled for choice.
My post on Paris Art Museums provides you with some ideas.
And for even more details about my suggested sites and their tie-ins withLove Among the Recipes, along with descriptions of dozens of other things to see in Paris, check out my post on Paris Sightseeing.
Here are some options for taking a bus tour around Paris to see the main sites in comfort. A good strategy is to take a tour when you first arrive in Paris to orient yourself.
After three full days of touring Paris, you’ll be ready for a relaxing morning riding the TGV, France’s high speed train, to the south of France. You catch the TGV to Avignon from Gare Montparnasse. Check the SCNF website to buy tickets or book through Trainline.
I love riding the TGV. It’s so smooth and fast! Within about four hours, you’ll arrive at the sleek, modern train station in Avignon and step into the warm southern air.
I suggest renting a car for pick-up at Avignon station. The traffic around the station isn’t too frenetic, and very quickly you’ll be on your way east to the Luberon.
Made famous by Peter Mayle’s book A Year in Provence, the Luberon region of Provence has been thoroughly discovered. But it’s still a magical area and one which I visit as often as possible.
I never tire of driving around the little villages, taking walks through the glorious countryside, eating fabulous al fresco meals and poking around the little shops. I always come away with a bag full of lavender and honey soaps.
The villages I like best are Gordes, Rousillon (an absolute must-see) and Bonnieux.
I suggest settling into a country hotel in the area and taking day trips to explore the villages and just soak up the Provençal vibe. Other attractive villages are Menerbes, Lacoste, and Saignon where we stayed for two weeks back in the nineties.
Rousillon deserves a special mention. Not only is the village itself delightful with plenty of good restaurants and shopping, it is close to Le Sentier des Ocres. This area of stunning ocher cliffs and pathways is an easy walk from the village. For more information, check out this post.
Ocher cliffs in the Sentier des Ocres near Rousillon
Here are two highly recommended hotels in the Luberon, one in Roussillon and one in Gordes.
Les Sables d’Ocre
A 15-minute walk from the village of Roussillon, Les Sables d’Ocre sets the bar for what a country-style, family-run, low-key, easy-on-the-budget place should be.
Book one of the rooms that includes a terrace. You’ll have your own private outdoor space and be steps from the pool.
Domain de l’Enclos
Close to lovely Gordes, the Domain de L’Enclos is wonderful. On a Spring trip to the Luberon , I snagged a room with a terrace which Gregg made use of to do some drawing.
The views from the garden over the Luberon are spectacular. Check our his work on his website.
Gregg drawing outside at our hotel near Gordes in the Luberon
Avignon
On your way to Aix-en-Provence from the Luberon, consider stopping for an afternoon to see Avignon. I loved touring the Pope’s Palace (the Palais des Papes) where back in the 14th century, several popes lived when the papacy was moved from Rome to Avignon.
The palace is one of the largest and most important medieval Gothic buildings in Europe.
Palace of the Popes in Avignon
The town of Avignon is pleasant and compact, and it’s always fun to see the famous pont d’Avignon that stretches only halfway across the Rhone River.
The Pont d’Avignon made famous in the song
Aix-en-Provence and Arles
You could choose to home base either in Aix-en-Provence or Arles. Both have their charms and both are within easy driving distance of plenty of fabulous Provence landscapes.
Consider spending a day in the Camargue, where you’ll see flamingos, bulls, and the Mediterranean; wander Arles in the footsteps of van Gogh; and enjoy a meal on the picturesque and car free Le Cours Mirabeau, the main drag in Aix-en-Provence.
The key to enjoying this area is just to relax and soak up the atmosphere.
The main drag in Aix-en-Provence
For an off-the-beaten track adventure, check out Château La Coste in the hills north of Aix-en-Provence. It’s a vineyard and sculpture park with a great restaurant. Another option is to take a half-day wine tour of the region. Here’s a GetYourGuide tour:
Drive east from Aix-en-Provence and within two hours, you’ll see signs to Cannes, Antibes, Nice, Menton and Monte Carlo.
You’re on the fabled Riviera!
Enjoying the high life in Monaco on the French Riviera
There is a lot to do on the French Riviera so I suggest finding a home base and then taking day trips. Here are just a few of the highlights.
Antibes
Visit the Picasso Museum and wander the picturesque back streets. Enjoy great views of the Mediterranean and watch the boats.
A view of the Picasso Museum (the tower) in Antibes
Cannes
Promenade along the famous seaside and mingle with the beautiful people, enjoy a cocktail on the terrace of the famed Carlton Cannes Hotel, then check out the high class shops.
Along the waterfront in swishy Cannes
Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Located on Cap Ferrat just to the east of Nice, the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild is worth a visit for the gardens alone (and the house is no slouch either). The nearby Greek Villa Kerylos is also fun to visit, particularly for the spectacular views of the Mediterranean.
Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild on Cap Ferrat
Nice
Nice is a large and bustling city and although a bit iffy in some areas, is a great place to home base.
Avoid the areas near the train station. Spend an afternoon and evening exploring the narrow streets of Old Nice to sample great food and just get all your senses stimulated.
Menton
Menton is a great choice for a town that is less crowded than some of its more famous cousins. I’ve spent several afternoons in Menton and can’t wait to go back. Its old town is charming and its beach long and sandy.
Harbor in Menton
Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Located in the hills above Cannes, the enchanting (achingly so!) village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence is truly delightful, even it is has in recent years become very upscale.
I’ve enjoyed some good meals there overlooking spectacular views. Saint-Paul-de-Vence is also very close to the Fondation Maeght, a modern art museum set in gorgeous gardens with very cool sculptures.
The lovely village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Vence
A few kilometers past Saint-Paul-de-Vence and closer to the mountains that buttress the French Riviera is Vence, one of our favorite places to relax away from the hubbub on the coast.
The pedestrian-only medieval streets of this walled town are peaceful and shady with plenty of restaurants are available. Vence feels like a place where people actually live.
If you’re a fan of Matisse, a visit to the Matisse Chapel (the Chapelle du Rosaire) a fifteen-minute walk from Vence is a must. Matisse designed every detail of the chapel. The interior is very spare and modern with stunning stained glass windows.
Tour Options on the French Riviera
Here are some options with Tiqets.com for touring the French Riviera. A boat trip would be fun!
Nice or Cannes both make good home bases on the Mediterranean. You’ll find lots of hotels here, some on the waterfront.
Another option is to home base in a village like Saint-Paul-de-Vence or Vence and then drive to the towns on the Mediterrenean.
One drawback of this plan is that the traffic can be horrendous the closer to the waterfront you get. On the other hand, the villages above the Riviera are so spectacular that it would be shame not to spend some time there.
Here are some options:
Les Villas du Parc: I stayed in this gorgeous villa on the outskirts of Antibes for a week. If you have a car, this is a great choice.
Hôtel Marc Hély: We enjoyed a room with a view over Saint Paul-de-Vence and a tasty breakfast in the courtyard. This is a great choice in La Colle-sur-Loup, which is about a ten-minute drive from the Fondation Maeght.
Miramar: This hotel is in Vence, which is just up the hill from Saint-Paul-de-Vence and a larger town with more services. FYI, we had the best pizza in an outdoor café in the Old Town of Vence! The Miramar is a reasonably-priced and well-located property that is great for drivers.
Enjoying French cuisine in the thousands of small restaurants all over France is a huge highlight. You can get a bad meal in France (and I’ve endured some doozies), but that’s usually the exception.
Check online reviews of the restaurants in the area you’re traveling to and make dinner reservations.
Check out my general tips on dining well on a budget in Europe.
Conclusion
One of the best things about traveling in France is just being in France.
People are friendly and helpful, particularly if you attempt to speak French; the food is almost always wonderful; and a great deal of the French countryside is drop-dead gorgeous.
Most of my fondest memories of my travels in France are of great meals I’ve shared with my husband, and the scenic drives and walks we’ve taken through the countryside.
Slow down, make time to smell the lavender, and enjoy!
Here are some more posts about traveling in France:
