Whitewashed house in Sparin

Best Itineraries to Tour Favorite Regions in Spain

My two Spain itineraries last for three weeks each because, frankly, you can’t “do” Spain in one trip. But in a three-week period, you can see a fair bit of it by focusing on either the south or the north.

This post presents two itineraries that both include Madrid.

Itinerary 1 starts in Barcelona, goes down the coast to Andalusia, swings by Madrid, visits charming Zaragoza and ends in Barcelona.

Itinerary 2 starts in Madrid and explores Salamanca and northern Spain, before swinging south to take in Burgos and ending back in Madrid.

Pinterest graphic with the text favorite regions in spain. Above the text is a picture of Toledo from a distance. Below the text is a picture of mountains - the picos du europa in northern spain.

Sample Itinerary 1: Barcelona and the South

The map below shows the route for a three-week trip to Spain starting and ending in Barcelona.

Day 1: Arrive in Barcelona

Go into Barcelona and get settled. You’ll spend three nights here so you have plenty of time to explore one of Europe’s most visited destinations.

Days 2 to 3: Barcelona

Spend three nights and two full days exploring Barcelona. Highlights include the Sagrada Familia, the Gaudi architecture, the Picasso Museum, the Palau de la Musica, and the Miro Foundation. Read more in How to Spend Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Beautiful Barcelona.

Many Catalan people would prefer Catalonia not be a part of Spain. The last time I was in Catalonia staying for a week in Girona, a Catalan stronghold, Catalan flags bloomed from the windows of many buildings and people spoke Catalan more readily than Spanish.

But don’t worry, most people in the service industries will likely speak English to you or at least respond to your attempts at Spanish.

Memories of Barcelona

One of my most vivid memories of Catalonia was during a visit to Barcelona when I was 21. I had traveled for two weeks with friends along the Costa Brava and then returned to Barcelona to spend a day sightseeing before flying back to England where I was studying. This was in the mid-1970s when Franco was in power and Spain was not the hip, happenin’ and awesome place to travel that it is now.

I walked into the Plaça de Catalunya and sat on the edge of one of the fountains to watch the world go by. The sun shone, people strolled, all seemed peaceful.

Suddenly, a handful of young men entered the plaza from a side street. They carried two or three placards and were chanting. I stood up for a better look, fascinated by this evidence of Spanish protest in the midst of fascism. I started walking toward the protestors.

Bad move.

A phalanx of armed soldiers started marching directly towards me, sub-machine guns cocked and ready. I looked around. The people who had filled the plaza with noise and laughter moments before were gone. I was completely alone—just me and my orange backpack with its grubby Canadian flag.

I picked up my pack and retreated as smartly as I could. The soldiers veered away, presumably to arrest the protestors, and I boarded the first bus I found to take me to the airport—seven hours before my flight was scheduled to take off.

Barcelona Today

I returned to Barcelona in 2010 and again in 2015. What a difference!

Barcelona is fun to visit, although in recent years it’s become extremely crowded. Avoid it at the height of summer and plan your time to avoid the worst of the crowds.

Read my suggestions for enjoying a two-day visit to Barcelona in Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Trendy Barcelona.

Day 5: Valencia

Pick up a car at Barcelona airport and start driving south. Spain is BIG! You can’t easily drive from Barcelona to Andalusia in one day so I suggest breaking your trip in Valencia. It’s a pleasant city and the City of Arts and Sciences (La Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias) is a spectacular and imposing space well worth a few hours of your time.

Days 6 to 11: Andalusia

You should really spend at least a week in this iconic area of Spain, but if you only have fivedays, then focus on Granada and Seville. Both are Spain must-sees. If you have time for only one of the two cities, then my vote is Seville. I never get tired of visiting this beautiful city with its wonderful food, fiery flamenco and great atmosphere.

You could easily spend a week in this region of Spain enjoying the historic Seville and Granada, before exploring the stunning White Towns – Los Pueblos Blancos—and Ronda with its gorgeous gorge.

Read more about Andalusia in A Culture-Steeped Itinerary to Tour Andalusia Comfortably in 10 Days.

Here are some GetYourGuide tour options in Andalusia:

Powered by GetYourGuide

Day 12: Cordoba

On your way north to Madrid, stay a night in Cordoba, one of Spain’s most magical cities (and that’s saying something). Explore La Mezquita, the immense mosque dating from 784 A.D, that features a magnificent columned prayer hall and Byzantine mosaics. In the evening, wander the tiny streets of this lovely city and take in a flamenco performance. I don’t think an artsy traveler can ever see too much flamenco..

Day 13: Toledo

Toledo makes a good stop for a peaceful night before driving into Madrid. It’s a lovely little town with plenty to see. At nights, it’s particularly stunning when the crowds have dissipated and you have the floodlit cathedral to yourself.

Days 14 to 18: Madrid

Drive north to Madrid, leave your car in a parking lot outside the city, or better yet stay at my favorite Madrid hotel: Sabataini drop your car off at the airport, and then spend your last day exploring Spain’s capital. You could easily spend a week in Madrid, but if you only have time for one day, check out my post How to Enjoy a Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Madrid.

Day 19: Zaragoza

Although on the tourist trail, Zaragoza is a wonderful place to spend the night. We toured the magnificent baroque Nuestra Señora del Pilar basilica, checked out the Aljafería, an 11th-century Moorish palace, and enjoyed some of the best tapas of all our trips to Spain. Zaragoza makes a good place to break the trip from Madrid to Barcelona.

Day 20-21: Barcelona

Drop your car at the airport and spend another night in Barcelona. You could spend your final day taking a tour to stunning Montserrat.

Sample Itinerary 2: Madrid and the North

The map below shows the route for a three-week trip to Spain starting and ending in Madrid that skips Barcelona and southern Spain but does include western and northern Spain.

Day 1: Arrive in Madrid

Go into Madrid and get settled. You’ll spend three nights here so you have plenty of time to explore one of my favorite European cities.

Days 2 to 4: Madrid

Visit Madrid for its fabulous art museums—the Prado and the Reina Sofia. Also, stroll through Retiro Park (El Parque del Buen Retiro or just El Retiro), then join the locals for a late dinner.

Madrid is definitely worth at least three nights so you can thoroughly enjoy seeing some of Europe’s greatest art “in the flesh” and be a part of the lively evening scene.

Read more about my Madrid recommendations in Exploring Fascinating Madrid–Europe’s: Best-Kept Secret for the Artsy Traveler

Day 5: Toledo

Pick up a car at Madrid airport and drive to Toledo, a truly delightful place to visit. Perched high on a hill famously depicted in the painting View over Toledo by El Greco, Toledo pulses with history.

Walk the narrow streets, buy some objects made from the world-famous Toledo steel and check out the stunning cathedral.

Panorama of Toledo with the Alcantara Bridge – Spain

Day 6: Salamanca

We visited Salamanca on a driving trip that took us diagonally across northwest Spain from San Sebastian in the northeast to Salamanca in the west, near the Portuguese border and on the same latitude as Porto in northern Portugal.

I highly recommend adding Salamanca to your itinerary. It’s a laid-back, inviting, and friendly Spanish city with a fabulous art nouveau museum.

Enjoy a glass of wine in the massive Plaza Mayor, one of Europe’s most spectacular living rooms, and listen to roving bands of guitarists dressed in medieval garb play vaguely Mexican-sounding music.

Apparently, many people who emigrated to Mexico came from Salamanca and some of the wealthier ones have returned to make Salamanca prosperous. It certainly is a beautifully maintained city.

Days 7 to 10: Santiago de Compostela

Take your time driving from Salamanca to Santiago de Compostela, perhaps stopping enroute in Vigo before heading north. Santiago de Compostela can be crowded, but it’s a fascinating city to explore with an amazing food culture. Definitely check out some of its wonderful restaurants.

Days 11 to 16: Northern Spain

The landscape in the north is mountainous and lusciously green—not the seared brown plain you expect to see in Spain. You could easily spend a week traveling from west to east (or the reverse). I provide a suggested itinerary in my post Exploring Northern Spain & Basque Country.

Fuente Dé mountains in the Picos de Europa, Camaleño, Cantabria, Spain

You can also walk the width of northern Spain on the Camino. I haven’t, but I know many people who have, including guest poster Elizabeth Petrie. Read her two posts about her trip:

Days 17 to 18: Bilbao and San Sebastian

The big attraction in Bilbao is the Guggenheim, which you can see in a few hours, and then choose to move on to San Sebastian where sampling pinxhos makes for a fabulous evening out.

Day 19: Burgos

Break your journey between Bilbao and Madrid in historic Burgos. You’ll find lots there to keep you busy, including a visit to the terrific Museo de Evolución Humana (Museum of Human Evolution).

Days 20/21: Madrid

Drop your car at the airport, spend another night in Madrid (take in a flamenco show!), and start planning your next trip to Spain.

Tours in Spain

Here are some tours available through GetYourGuide:

Powered by GetYourGuide

What Regions of Spain are Your Favorites?

Do you have a favorite region of Spain that I’ve left out? Please share your recommends in the Comments below.

Here are links to more of my posts about fantastic Spain:

Caves on the Algarve in Portugal

Best Itinerary to Tour Favorite Regions in Portugal

We’ve traveled to Portugal several times and find it a compact country that packs a lot of sightseeing punch. You’ll be able to see most of lovely Portugal on a two-week trip.

I suggest picking up your car in Lisbon and then driving south to the Algarve. Spend a few days indulging in a bit of sun and fun and then start working your way north through the Alentejo region to Coimbra and from there west to the Atlantic coast near Nazaré and north to Porto and Braga before zipping back down to Lisbon and home.

The map below shows approximate locations of the main regions in Portugal that I recommend exploring.

map of Portugal for travel in Portugal
Regions in Portugal; Map by Google Maps

Sample Itinerary

Here’s a sample itinerary for a two-week trip to Portugal starting and ending in Lisbon:

Day 1: Arrive in Lisbon

If you arrive in the late morning, pick up your car at the airport. Depending on your energy level, either drive directly to the Algarve (about 3 hours) or drive south for about an hour to a beach town such as Melides or Sines to relax after your flight.

Days 2 to 4: Western Algarve

Spend three nights in a home base such as Luz or Lagos (I recommend Luz) and take a day trip to Sagres and a boat excursion from Lagos to see the spectacular rock formations. Become one with the beach.

Day 5: Eastern Algarve

Drive east to Tavira for a night. I suggest bypassing the middle section of the Algarve with all its resorts.

Days 6 & 7: Alentejo

Head north to Évora for two nights. Explore local towns such as Estremoz, wander among megaliths, and fall in love with cork.

Day 8: Coimbra

Drive west to delightful Obidos north of Lisbon, then drive north along the coast to spend a night in either Nazaré on the Atlantic Coast or inland in Coimbra. If you choose Coimbra, catch a fado performance in the evening.

Days 9 to 11: Porto

Drive north to Porto, then home-base in Porto and spend a day driving north to explore Guimarães or east to the Douro Valley.

Days 12 to 14: Lisbon & Sintra

Drive back to Lisbon and drop off your car at the airport. Take a taxi into the city and spend the rest of the day and the next day exploring Lisbon. On your last full day in Portugal, take a day trip to Sintra.

Another Option

Reverse the itinerary so you go first to central and northern Portugal and then south through the Alentejo to the Algarve for some beachy R & R before heading north to Lisbon and home.

The Algarve

This part of Portugal is vacation central and perfect for a spot of R & R—a gentle way to either ease into your vacation or relax before heading back to home and reality. You won’t do much artsy sightseeing, but the scenery is spectacular and the weather warm and inviting.  

Cliffs and beaches in the Algarve - a region for travel in Portugal
Stunning cliffs and beaches in the western Algarve

Explore the eastern Algarve around lovely Tavira and the western Algarve between Lagos and Sagres. Hurry past the middle bit with its phalanxes of high-rise resorts.

Even in the less touristy parts of the Algarve, you’ll be hard-pressed to hear anyone speaking anything other than English, German, or Dutch. British pubs have sprung up in the towns and pastel vacation homes blanket the countryside.

Read more about the Algarve in Exploring the Algarve and Alentejo.

Alentejo

Called the Tuscany of Portugal, the Alentejo takes up a good third of the country, stretching from the Atlantic in the west to the Spanish border in the east and from the Algarve in the south to almost halfway up the country past Lisbon.

We discovered the Alentejo when Gregg (husband and artist) had an exhibition in the white-washed and achingly charming town of Estremoz. The region is hot and arid with fabulous megalithic sites with menhirs, dolmens and ancient stone circles, rolling hills, vineyards, and my favorite thing of all—endless hectares of cork trees.

A plantation of cork oak trees in the Alentejo region of Portugal
A plantation of cork oak trees in the Alentejo region of Portugal

The main town in the region is Évora, well worth at least two nights of your time.

For more information about how to spend your time in the Alentejo, read Exploring the Algarve and Alentejo and check out descriptions of the megalithic sites in Explore Seven of the Best Prehistory Sites in Europe.

Lisbon

Lisbon isn’t as funky as it used to be, but it’s still a great city to visit and enjoy. When we stayed there for two weeks way back in 2010, I rarely saw a souvenir store, and the narrow streets in the historic Alfama district slumbered in the heat.

Lisbon tram leaving the Alfama district
Historical yellow tram in front of the Lisbon cathedral, Alfama, Lisbon, Portugal

On our latest visits, so much had changed. Lisbon has been well and truly discovered.

The Alfama district bristles with souvenir shops, tourists shuffle in a conga line through the narrow streets to the Castle Sao Jorge, and flocks of sightseeing tuk tuks dart in and out of the speeding traffic. And forget about getting a seat on one of the iconic trams in the middle of the day!

Consider visiting out of season when the crowds will be fewer and you may recapture at least some of the spirit of old Lisbon.

Day Trip to Sintra

Include a day trip out to picturesque and super-touristy Sintra to visit the quirky Pena Palace, the medieval Castle of the Moors (my favorite!), and the town itself with various palaces and gardens. If you have an extra day, consider staying overnight in Sintra.

I provide suggestions for enjoying Lisbon and lovely Sintra in Three Days in Lisbon.

Central & Northern Portugal

You could easily spend your entire two-week vacation in the central and northern regions of Portugal. My itinerary doesn’t do it justice!

Highlights include stately old Coimbra, pretty Nazaré and the nearby beach Praia Do Norte which gets some of the largest waves in the world, fun and funky Porto, and if you have time, fascinating cities like Guimarães and Braga, along with the stunning Douro Valley for a spot of port-tasting.

Read my suggestions for touring this top half of Portugal in Exploring North and Central Portugal.

Tours in Portugal

Here are some tours available through GetYourGuide:

Powered by GetYourGuide

What Regions of Portugal are Your Favorites?

Do you have a favorite region of Portugal that I’ve left out? Please share your recommends in the Comments below. Here are links to all my posts about lovely Portugal:

Statue of Beethoven

Amazing Artsy Sightseeing in Germany for the Independent Traveler

Artsy sightseeing in Germany means music, castles, and museums, particularly in Berlin. And concerts!

Every time I travel to Germany, I make time to go to a classical music concert. After all, Germany is the home of Beethoven, Bach, Brahms, and a whole lot of other luminaries.

It’s also home to some of the world’s greatest concert halls. A classical music concert in Germany is always an artsy traveler treat.

In this post, I share some of my favorite artsy experiences in Germany.

Pinterest graphic showing a statue of Johann Sebastian Bach in Leipzig, a recommended artsy sightseeing destination in Germany.

Map of Germany: Suggested Artsy Favorites

The map below shows the locations of the artsy sightseeing favorites mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.

This map was made with Wanderlog, a travel planner on iOS and Android

Music Museums in Germany

As a life-long lover of classical music and a pianist, I enjoy visiting museums dedicated to some of my favorite composers. Germany is home to many great composers, including Bach and Beethoven, both of whom have museums dedicated to them.

Bach Museum in Leipzig

If you’re a Bach fan, head for Leipzig to enjoy one of the hippest music museums I’ve ever visited. I could have stayed there all day!

The Bach Museum (#1 on the map) is located next to the Thomaskirche, the church where Bach is buried. The museum is open 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday so make sure you don’t make Monday your Leipzig day.

Statue of Johann Sebastian Bach in Leipzig Germany, a artsy sightseeing choice for the music lover
Statue of Johann Sebastian Bach in Leipzig Germany

A highlight for me were the many interactive exhibits, including the Virtual Baroque Orchestra. The instruments are displayed on a wall with each instrument being played marked by a light signal. Press the button corresponding to the instrument and its sound will be amplified so you can hear it more distinctly. The orchestra plays three pieces and I listened to them all.

Another highlight, particularly if you’re a musician and have played Bach, is the Listening Studio. Sit on a comfy couch at a listening station, don the headphones provided and search a database containing every single one of Bach’s compositions (and trust me, he wrote a lot). I wanted to stay forever.

Here are some other sightseeing options in Leipzig.

Staying in Leipzig

I recommend the stylish Radisson Blu Hotel Leipzig, which is within walking distance of the concert hall and the Bach museum.

Beethoven House in Bonn

I first visited Beethoven’s birthplace in Bonn when I was 18. I’ll never forget going into the small house and hearing Beethoven being played on a piano located in the room where he was born.

The Beethoven-Haus (#2) museum has grown since then and is now considered one of the most visited music museums in the world. It’s also one of the 100 most popular sights in Germany.

The museum is open almost every day of the year from 10 am to 6 pm.

Statue of Beethoven in Bonn, Germany, a major artsy sightseeing choice
Statue of Beethoven in Bonn, Germany

Concerts in Germany

Go out of your way to attend concerts when you’re in Germany. Choose a major concert venue such as the Elbphilharmonie in Hamburg, a chamber concert, or even a folk performance.

Classical Concerts in Berlin

One of the highlights of our German travels was hearing Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring in the Philharmonie Hall (#3) in Berlin. Checking out this acoustically amazing and super-modern concert hall was almost as exciting as enjoying the performance.

Berlin Philharmonic concert hall, an artsy sightseeing must see
The Berliner Philharmonie concert hall in Berlin, Germany

Classical Concerts in Leipzig

While seeing a symphony orchestra perform in a grand concert hall is a huge artsy traveler treat, also seek out smaller venues to see chamber music and solo performances. At the world famous Gewandhaus (#4) in Leipzig, we snagged last-minute tickets to see a pianist perform a stellar repertoire of Chopin. The cost was only about fifteen euros each–an amazing bargain considering the quality of the performance. At smaller venues, you may be the only tourist. Enjoy being a temporary local among fellow music lovers.

Classical Concerts in Cologne

In Cologne, catch a performance at the Kölner Philharmonie (#5). Located close to Cologne Cathedral, the modern concert hall is breathtaking, with excellent acoustics and comfy seats.

Classical Concerts in Hamburg

In Hamburg, see a performance at the ultra-modern Elbphilharmonie (#6)–one of the world’s most stunning concert halls.

Folk Music in Bacharach

On a folksier note, be on the lookout for concerts featuring medieval instruments. We attended one in Bacharach in the Rhine Valley. Costumed performers played wind instruments, drums, zithers, and other medieval instruments and explained in English and German what they were playing. At the end of the concert, most of the audience (me included) got up to dance.

Museums in Germany

Germany is awash with amazing museums, including some of the largest museums in the world in Munich and Berlin. Here are a few of my favorites.

Romano-Germanic Museum in Cologne

The Romano-Germanic Museum (#7) (Römisch-Germanisches Museum) is simply amazing and one of the best museums we’ve visited in Germany.

Beautifully curated displays present the archaeological heritage of Cologne from the Palaeolithic period to the early Middle Ages, including the centuries when Rome was in charge. You’ll see the world’s largest collections of Roman glass vessels, and gold work and goods showing the lives of Romani and Franks in early medieval Cologne.

Here are some other sightseeing options in Cologne.

Duetsches Museum in Munich

I first visited the Deutsches Museum (#8) back in the 1990s when my daughter was eight. This incredible museum presents twenty exhibitions exploring science and technology, from aviation and chemistry to robotics and health. It’s a great place to take a child thanks to plenty of hands-on exhibits with explanations in English and German. Allow plenty of time to enjoy this museum!

Miniatur Wunderland in Hamburg

Spare a few hours for Hamburg’s Miniatur Wunderland (#9), touted as the largest model railway in the world. It really is spectacular. No wonder it’s Hamburg’s number one tourist attraction with more than 16 million visitors from all over the world.

As the name suggests, Miniatur Wunderland showcases the world in miniature with over 265,000 figures, along with thousands of cars, ships, trains, and even planes taking off and landing. Everything is automated, providing constant jolts of fun as you stroll around the vast space (1,499 square meters). Kids will love it and adults will appreciate the incredible craftsmanship.

Art Museums in Germany

Here’s a list of some of my favorite art museums in Germany.

Berlin Art Galleries

Pergamon Museum in Berlin

As one of the most visited museums in Germany, the Pergamon Museum (#10) deserves a spot high on your list of Berlin sites. The big attraction is the incredible collection of massive archaeological structures from ancient Middle East, including the Pergamon Altar, the Market Gate of Miletus, the Ishtar Gate and Processional Way from Babylon, and the Mshatta Façade.

The Pergamon Museum is one of five world-class museums on Museum Island in Berlin. To read about all of them, see Booming Berlin.

Gemäldegalerie in Berlin

The modern building (#11) houses a first-rate collection of European painting from the 13th to 18th centuries including masterpieces by Jan van Eyck, Pieter Bruegel, Albrecht Dürer, Raphael, Titian, Caravaggio, Peter Paul Rubens, Rembrandt, and Jan Vermeer van Delft.

Here are more options in Berlin:

Munich Art Galleries

There are three “Pinakotheken” museums in the Art District or Kunstareal: the Alte Pinakothek (#12) is one of the oldest museums in the world and houses a fine collection of Old Masters.

Nearby is Pinakothek der Moderne (#13) which is four museums in one: art, prints and drawings, architecture, and design. When we visited, we saw a wonderful exhibition of paintings by Frank Stella.

The Neue Pinakothek is closed until 2025. Several works from the collection, including paintings by Goya, Manet, van Gogh, and Klimt, are currently on display on the ground floor of the Alte Pinakothek.

Max Ernst Museum Near Cologne

A highlight is a visit to the Max Ernst Museum (#14) in Brühl, an easy tram ride from Cologne or Bonn. The museum features a marvelous collection of work by one of the 20th century’s foremost surrealists. Max Ernst is one of Gregg’s favorite artists (Gregg Simpson is my husband and also an artist and my frequent travel companion!), so visiting the museum was a true pilgrimage for him.

If you’re a fan of the work of Max Ernst, be sure to put the museum on your list. The grounds surrounding the museum are beautiful.

Albrecht Dürer’s House in Nuremberg

This charming house (#15) where Dürer (1471-1528) lived and worked for over 20 years is one of the few surviving burgher houses in Nuremberg. It’s also the only surviving artist’s house from the period in northern Europe.

Albrecht Durer's House, Nuremberg, Germany
Albrecht Durer’s House, Nuremberg, Germany

Tour the various rooms to see how a wealthy person lived in the 16th century. Head upstairs to the workshop to enjoy a demonstration of the printmaking techniques Dürer used to produce his woodcuts, including one of his most famous—the rhinoceros.

Conclusion

One of the many things I love about traveling in Germany is the variety of interesting sights and regions, and as mentioned earlier, the quality of the music performances. At least two weeks is needed to even scratch the surface of Germany. It’s a big country!

Must-see places are Berlin, the Rhine Valley, and Munich, and if you have time, check out Leipzig, Dresden, and Hamburg. Here are more posts about Germany to explore:

So you have more artsy traveler favorites in Germany? Share your suggestions in the comments below.

View of castle in Germany

Favorite Regions in Germany for the Artsy Traveler

Germany has much to offer the Artsy Traveler–from the museums of bustling Berlin to the pastoral landscapes of the Rhine Valley and a lot in between.

In this post, I review some of my favorite regions in Germany and include recommendations for what to see and where to stay.

The map below shows the destinations I’ve visited and recommend for artsy traveling.

Pinterest graphic with the text Favorite Regions in Germany over an aerial view of the town of Bacharach in the Rhine Valley
Map of Germany

Cologne and the Rhine Valley

Add Cologne and a short cruise along the Rhine to your Germany trip. Here’s a suggested itinerary for a week in this magical area.

Days 1 and 2: Cologne

Day 3: Bonn

Days 4 and 5: St. Goar to home base, then take a cruise down the Rhine to Bacharach (about an hour) and the local train back to St. Goar

Days 6 and 7: Stay in Cochem and explore the Mosel Valley for a day or visit Trier with its excellent Roman ruins.

Town of Bacharach in the Rhine Valley in Germany
The Rhine Valley at Bacharach is fairytale land

See more details about this itinerary in Exploring Cologne and the Rhine Valley.

Berlin

Gregg and I spent a week in Berlin when he had an exhibition there and so had lots of time to explore this remarkable city. The weight of history is heavy in Berlin but at the same time, the city is energetic and forward-looking.

From an artsy perspective, Berlin is up there with London and Paris as one of Europe’s premier cultural capitals.

Read my suggestions for enjoying up to a week in Booming Berlin: Your Artsy Guide.

Leipzig

This city retains some of its East German past—dreary apartment blocks, cheap tickets to music concerts, and Ampelmänn (Ampelmännchen in German).

When you travel in Germany, you know when you’re in a city or region that was once part of East Germany by the crosswalk signals for pedestrians. We first spotted the red Stop and green Go Ampelmännchen in Leipzig and again in Berlin when we were in neighborhoods that used to be behind the Berlin Wall.

Green Ampelmänn pedestrian go sign in Germany
Ampelmänn says Go
Red Ampelmänn pedestrian stop sign in Germany
Ampelmänn says Stop

I became rather fond of Ampelmänn and even bought a plastic walking man for my keychain. For a dizzying variety of Ampelmännchen schlock, visit the Ampelmänn shops in Berlin (see more in Booming Berlin: Your Artsy Guide).

Bach in Leipzig

The big draw in Leipzig is Johann Sebastian Bach. I’d always wanted to visit Leipzig because of its connection to Bach and finally got my wish in 2015. The Bach Museum has to be one of the world’s finest music museums.

Leipzig has a marvelous pedestrian area teeming with restaurants. Different varieties of beer from various regions all over Europe are featured. When I asked for a beer that was local to Leipzig in a restaurant that only served beer from Munich, I got a very frosty reception from the server. Apparently, it’s a faux pas to order Leipzig beer in a Bavarian-themed restaurant. Who knew?

The people of Leipzig are proud of their contribution to the dissolution of East Germany. The pivotal day of the Peaceful Revolution was October 9, 1989 when 70,000 protestors marched into the center of Leipzig crying “We are the People!” and “No violence”.

The young man at the hotel desk, who probably wasn’t even alive in 1989, was eager to tell us all about it when we checked in.

Munich

Like Berlin, Munich is a must-see city in Germany. Alas, I haven’t been back to Munich since our family trip in the 1990s which means I’m due for another visit.

Aerial panoramic view of Frauenkirche, Marienplatz Town hall and Old Town Hall in Munich, Bavaria, Germany
Aerial panoramic view of Frauenkirche, Marienplatz Town hall and Old Town Hall in Munich, Bavaria, Germany

I remember drinking excellent beer in the Marienplatz—the main square—while waiting for the famous Rathaus-Glockenspiel clock to chime the hour. Every day at 11 am and noon (and 5 pm in the summer), the clock chimes and carved medieval figures re-enact stories from the 16th century.

The dolls dancing in the clock of Marienplatz in Munich, Germany.
The dolls dancing in the clock of Marienplatz in Munich, Germany.

Don’t miss the massive Deutsches Museum that showcases over 100,000 objects from the fields of science and technology and is one of the most important museums of science and technology in the world. Exhibits range from atomic physics to the Altamira cave to a magnified model of a human cell as well as other displays from the Stone Age to the present.

Munich is also home to world-class art museums including the Alte Pinakothek and the Pinakothek der Moderne. The Neue Pinakothek is closed until 2025, with some of its masterpieces now being exhibited at the Alte Pinakothek.

Nuremberg

This city in south central Germany has a lot to recommend it. We stopped there on our way north from Italy en route to Leipzig and Berlin.

You’ll find an attractive old town with plenty of half-timbered buildings, pedestrian-only streets, the Nuremberg Castle which miraculously survived allied bombs, and my favorite, the Albrecht Dürer House (see Artsy Favorites in Germany).

Stroll the medieval streets and enjoy a dinner of German sausage and beer. Here are two views of Nuremberg.

View of Nuremberg in Germancy
Nuremberg and bridge in Germany

Trier

We spent a night in Trier and really enjoyed its laid back atmosphere, attractive town square, and its Roman ruins. It was a convenient night’s stopover on our way from Amsterdam to Italy.

For us, the attraction of Trier was its Roman ruins. As you’ve probably already guessed if you’ve spent any time on this website, Gregg and I are suckers for a good Roman ruin and usually go out of our way to find them.

The Romans lived in Trier for over 500 years, and in the 4th century the city was the favored residence of Roman emperors, including Emperor Constantine. In Trier, you’ll find lots of Roman ruins including a complex of Roman baths, a large amphitheater and the mammoth Porta Nigra (Black Gate).

The Porta Nigra (Black Gate) - a 2nd-century Roman city gate in Trier, Germany
The Porta Nigra (Black Gate) – a 2nd-century Roman city gate in Trier, Germany

When you’re done with ruins, visit the Rheinisches Landesmuseum, a large archeological museum with an excellent collection of Roman artifacts.

Once you’ve had your fill of Roman ruins, spend the evening strolling Trier’s pedestrian main street lined with half-timbered houses, admire the market cross that dates from 958 in the market square, and enjoy a dinner accompanied by plenty of local wine.

Attractive half-timbered houses in Trier, Germany

When we were in Trier in 2018, the town was gearing up to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the birth of Karl Marx. Strores were filled with Karl Marx rubber duckie, replete with a copy of Das Kapital clutched under one wing and a quill pen in the other.

Photo Credit: Vaaju.com

I didn’t buy one and am now kicking myself since I doubt I’ll be around for the 300th anniversary.

Here are some more posts about artsy traveling in Germany:

Have you visited Germany? Share your suggestions in the Comments below.

statue of Michelangelo's David

Amazing Artsy Sightseeing Choices in Italy for the Independent Traveler

Where to begin when it comes to artsy sightseeing in Italy? Italy feels at times like one giant art gallery! There’s so much to see that even after numerous trips, I know I have many more wonders in store for me on future trips.

In this post I’ve described some of my favorites in eight historical periods: Greek, Etruscan, Roman, Byzantine, Medieval, Renaissance, Baroque, and 20th Century.

Read about my artsy sightseeing highlights and then follow links to more detailed recommendations. Seriously, you could very easily spend years in Italy and not run out of art to admire.

Pinterest graphic with the text Artsy Sightseeing in Italy. Above the text is a picture of the skyline of Siena in Tuscany. Below the text is a picture of the Rialto Bridge in Venice.

Map of Italy: Suggested Artsy Sightseeing Choices

The map below shows the locations of the artsy sightseeing options mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.

Greek Ruins

Three of the best preserved Greek temples in the world are located in Italy!

Ever since I first saw pictures of the magnificent Doric temples at Paestum (#1) in southern Italy, I’ve wanted to visit them–and finally I have!

The ruins are well worth the effort to get to them. Pictures give some idea of the beauty of the temples, but they cannot give a sense of the sheer size and splendor of the columns.

The temples are thought to be dedicated to the city’s namesake Poseidon (known to the Romans as Neptune), Hera and Ceres. The oldest temple dedicated to Hera dates from 550 BC.

Here are some options for touring Paestum with GetYourGuide.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Staying In Paestum

If you have a car, stay at the Savoy Beach Hotel. It’s on the Mediterranean and includes a beach club with loungers and people to bring you drinks! The hotel is luxurious, but the price is surprisingly reasonable.

Etruscan Art

I’ve grown very fond of Etruscan art. It’s different from Roman art in that it’s less monumental and more personal.

The Etruscans pre-date the Romans and were based around Florence and throughout Tuscany as far south as Tarquinia, about 50 kilometers north of Rome. The Etruscans were a fascinating society in which women held much more power than they did in Roman society.

I mention Volterra in the section on Tuscany. The Etruscan Guarnacci Museum is the place to see Etruscan artifacts.

Here are two other great options for enjoying Etruscan art while artsy sightseeing in Italy.

Tarquinia

All around Tarquinia are the ruins of Etruscan tombs, many with fabulous paintings. Visit the Necropolis of Tarquinia (#2) to see some of the most famous paintings including the Tomb of the Leopards which dates from 473 BC. The colors are remarkably well preserved.

Fresco in the Etruscan tomb of the Leopards in Tarquinia, Italy; great artsy sighteeing location
Tomb of the Leopards in Tarquinia

Visit the museum in Tarquinia to see more Etruscan art. Fascinating.

National Etruscan Museum in Rome

We loved this place! The Museo Nazionale Etrusco (#3), housed in the lovely Villa Giulia, was virtually empty when we were there, which was a treat after visiting other museums in Rome. We wandered happily through room after room of Etruscan treasures including the famous Sarcophagus of the Spouses from the late 6th century BC.

Although we didn’t find the museum crowded, play it safe – skip the line and buy your tickets online.

Sculpture of a married couple in the Etruscan Museum in Rome; the musuem is high on my list of artsy sightseeing options in Italy
One of the most famous sculptures in the Museo Nationale Etrusco – skip the line to buy tickets

I also enjoyed the urns and household goods, even little statues of animals. The Etruscan style is very modern-looking.

Ancient Roman

In addition to visiting the Roman sites in Rome and Pompeii, you don’t need to go far to find Roman ruins in Italy. Here are a few artsy sightseeing suggestions related to Roman art and architecture.

Hadrian’s Villa

Hadrian’s Villa (#4) is a massive archeological complex near Tivoli outside Rome. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the site is a must-see for fans of ancient Rome.

Be prepared to walk–the complex is vast, containing over 30 buildings and covering 250 acres, making it larger than the city of Pompeii. Stroll past the remains of fountains, pools, and gardens surrounding what must have been one heck of a pleasure palace back in the day.

View of columns at Hadrian's villa in Italy--a highlight of artsy sightseeing in Italy
Hadrian’s Villa in Italy

Hadrian constructed the villa as a retreat from the tough work of emperor-ing during the second and third decades of the 2nd century AD. We first discovered the villa on our family trip to Italy in 1994. Since then, much more of the site has been excavated with more ruins yet to be uncovered.

TIP: A good strategy is to visit Hadrian’s Villa (also called Villa Adriana) and the Renaissance Villa d’Este on a day tour. Here’s an option.

Ostia Antica

Rome’s original seaport is 30 minutes from Rome by train. Ostia Antica (#5) is like a mini Pompeii but without all the tourists. If you’re not planning to go south, take an afternoon from your Roman sightseeing to check out the atmospheric ruins at Ostia Antica.

You’ll find a well-preserved Roman theatre, the Baths of Neptune, remains of the military camp, temples to ancient deities, the forum and even Ostia Synagogue, the oldest known synagogue site in Europe.

Baths of Caracalla

This complex of ancient public baths close to Rome is worth a visit. Several towering walls remain along with impressive black and white mosaics. Descend below ground to view the well-preserved tunnels where slaves worked to keep the baths operating and the water hot.

Buy tickets for the Baths of Caracalla (#6).

Archeological Museum of Naples

This museum is a relevation–and one of the best museums showcasing Roman-era art that I’ve every visited. The Archeological Museum of Naples contains much of the art–paintings, frescoes, objects, mosaics–recovered from Pompeii.

If you’re pressed for time and trying to decide whether to visit the Pompeii ruins or the archeological museum, my vote is the archeological museum. The ruins may be far more popular (and very crowded), but to get a comprehensive view of what life was like in Pompeii, the museum has it all.

Read my detailed post about the Archeological Museum of Naples (#7): How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.

Staying in Rome

Here are two great options for staying in Rome:

  • Sant-Angelo Apartments: located deep in the Jewish Ghetto, you’re within steps of most of the major sites in ancient Rome.
  • Viam 6B located near the Spanish Steps and the Piazza del Popolo, this very stylish apartment is staffed, with some units including a lovely outdoor terrace.

Early Christian and Byzantine Art

Ravenna (#8) is the place in Italy to see the best Byzantine and early Christian mosaics. I wasn’t prepared for how incredibly new the mosaics looked. Despite dating from 400 to 600 AD, they looked like they were created yesterday.

I was taken with how the figures were depicted. Large eyes stare right at you, flowing robes glint with gold, the figures look like they could step from their perches on the walls high above you and join you for a glass of wine.

Be warned that many of the fabulous mosaics are located high up which means after a day of touring the UNESCO sites, you come away with a stiff neck.

It’s worth it! Artsy sightseeing doesn’t get much better than visiting the mosaics in Ravenna.

Gold mosaic showing a religious scene in Ravenna, Italy; Ravenna's mosaics are a must-do for the artsy sightseer
Sumptuous mosaic in Ravenna, Italy

Here are some options for touring Ravenna with Get Your Guide.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Staying in Ravenna

If you’re driving, avoid the narrow Ravenna streets and stay a little ways outside the city. The Grand Hotel Mattei is a modern and comfy choice.

Medieval Era

If you’re an artsy traveler with a love of the medieval, you just need to look out the window in Italy. Okay, that’s not quite true, but if you stay in any hill town, you’ll be surrounded by buildings that date from the 1300s, if not earlier.

These are some of my favorite medieval artworks I seek out when sightseeing in Italy.

  • Frescoes by Ambrogio Lorenzetti and Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico (#9) in Siena
  • The Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna in the museum at the Siena Cathedral (#10)
  • “The Annunciation” by Simone Martini in the Uffizi (#11) in Florence
  • Frescoes by Giotto in the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi (#12)
  • Frescoes by Giotto at the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua (#13)
  • Frescoes by Memmo di Filippuccio in the Camera del Podestà in the Palazzo Comunale in San Gimignano (#14) showing domestic scenes including a couple taking a bath and getting into bed

For more details about seeing medieval art in Italy, read Ten Must-See Masterpieces in Tuscany.

San Gimignano 1300

And before I leave medieval art, I must put in a plug for San Gimignano 1300 (#15). This scale model of what San Gimignano looked like in 1300 is located near the Palazzo Comunale and the Torre Grosso in the center of San Gimignano. The display is free and well worth seeing to give you an idea of how the city of towers looked with 72 towers instead of its current 17.

And while you’re there, pick up a copy of The Towers of Tuscany.

At San Gimignano 1300 with a copy of The Towers of Tuscany and the museum director
At San Gimignano 1300 with a copy of The Towers of Tuscany and the museum director

Here are some options for touring San Gimignano and the area with Get Your Guide.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Staying in San Gimignano

My favorite place (perfect if you have a car) is the Hotel Pescille on the outskirts of San Gimignano and overlooking the towers. The Cappuccina Country Resort also overlooking the city is another good choice.

Renaissance Era

The Renaissance was born in Florence with an explosion of amazing art by artists such as Michelangelo, Botticelli, and Leonardo da Vinci. You’ll see a fair whack of the best stuff at the Uffizi.

TIP: If you go to the Uffizi, you must buy your tickets ahead of time, preferably a few days or weeks before you arrive, especially if traveling in peak season. Here’s a link to buy your tickets to the Uffizi and skip the line.

Here are some of my favorite Renaissance pieces (it’s just a partial list–I could go on and on!):

  • Primavera and Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli in the Uffizi in Florence
  • David statue by Michelangelo at the Academia (#16) in Florence
  • David statue by Donatello at the Bargello (#17) museum in Florence
  • Expulsion from the Garden of Eden by Masaccio at the Brancacci chapel (#18) in Florence
  • The Medici chapels in Florence
  • Sistine Chapel frescoes by Michelangelo at the Vatican (#19) in Rome
  • Paintings by Sofonisba Anguissola, one of the few female painters from the period, in Siena and at the Uffizi in Florence.

For more artsy sightseeing in Florence, here are suggested tours and skip-the-line ticket options.

Staying in Florence

I highly recommend the Serristori Palace Residence. It’s right on the Arno River and slightly off the beaten track.

Baroque Era

Of all the art periods, the Baroque (roughly the 17th century) is my least favorite. I find the style too florid. However, the Baroque style is everywhere in Italy, from churches to museums. You can’t escape it.

Big names in Baroque art include Caravaggio, Tiepolo, Titian, Bernini, and Artemisia Gentileschi. Although Baroque art isn’t my cup of tea, I do love Artemisia’s work.

You can see her masterpiece, Judith Slaying Holofernes, completed in 1610, in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.

Modern Art in Italy

Italy has produced several noted modern artists including Giacometti, Modigliani, and Futurists such as Severini, Marinetti, and Balla. Following are three places to see wonderful modern art in Italy (and again, there are many more).

Peggy Guggenheim Museum

Located right smack on the Grand Canal in the Dorsoduro district of magical Venice between Santa Maria della Salute and the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Museum (#20) just makes me smile. I can’t visit it often enough!

The museum houses Peggy Guggenheim’s personal collection of 20th- century art including masterpieces of cubism, surrealism and abstract expressionism. Artists in the permanent collection include Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian. It is an embarrassment of 20th-century riches.

If you’re in Venice, take a break from the Renaissance and cross the canal to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Wander the cool halls of her renovated palazzo to view the paintings and sculptures and then descend the steps to the edge of the canal and watch the boats go by. 

I include the Peggy Guggenheim museum in my post about the Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe. Buy advance tickets (recommended in peak season) here.

National Museum of Modern Art in Rome

Also included in Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe is Rome’s National Museum of Modern Art (Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (#21). The museum is conveniently located on the edge of the Villa Borghese so you can see it before or after you visit the Galleria Borghese

Read my description in Ten Great Ways to Enjoy Bella Roma.

The museum features an excellent collection of 20th-century Italian painters including Giorgio de Chirico, Amedeo Modigliani, Antonio Canova, Giacomo Balla, and Giorgio Morandi, along with works by Rodin, Degas, van Gogh, Monet, Duchamp, Man Ray, and Pollock.

Unlike the Vatican and the other Renaissance and Ancient Roman attractions of Rome, the museum is sparsely attended and, therefore, extremely pleasant.

Tarot Garden: Sculptures by Niki de Saint Phalle

Located near the coast in the province of Grosseto in Tuscany, the Tarot Garden (Il Giardino dei Tarocchi – #21) is a collection of sculptures created by the French artist Niki de Saint Phalle.

If you’re traveling through Italy by car, carve out time to visit this wonderful place. For a great, although long, day trip from Rome, catch the train from Rome Termini to Orbetello Stazione (about 90 minutes) and from there take a taxi or a bus.

For a detailed description of how to get from Rome to Il Giardino dei Tarocchi, check out this post on The Spotted Cloth website.

Pictures of Il Giardino dei Tarocchi don’t do the sculptures justice. If you love quirky, whimsical modern art, you have to go and see the sculptures for yourself. You can walk around them, touch them, even go inside some of them.

Carol Cram in Il Giardino dei Tarocchi, a highlight of any artsy sightseeing trip to Italy.
Sitting on a sculpture at the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi 

Il Giardino dei Tarocchi is far enough off the beaten path to be uncrowded and totally delightful.

The garden is open every afternoon from 2:30 pm to 7:30 pm from April 1 to October 15. In November, December, January and March, the garden is open on the first Saturday of the month from 9 am to 1 pm. If the Saturday falls on a public holiday, the park opens the following Saturday.

Sculpture of lovers in the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi
Sculpture of lovers in the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi
Quirky foundation in the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi
Quirky foundation in the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi

Check the website for more information and directions.

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in Italy.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Conclusion

Have you visited any of the places described in this post? If so, let other artsy travelers know what you think.

Here are some more posts on Italy to help you plan your next trip–or just to indulge in some armchair travel.

Favorite Regions in Italy for the Artsy Traveler

My favorite regions in Italy range from Milan and the Dolomites in the north to Naples in the south. Unless you have several months to spare, you can’t really “do” all of Italy in one trip.

You’ll spend far too much time traveling and far too little time enjoying. Pick one or two regions and spent a week or two in each.

As Rick Steves says, “travel like you plan to return.”

Pinterst graphic with the text Favorite Regions in Itlay for the Artsy Traveler over two pictures. The top picture is of Milan Cathedral and the bottom picture is of the Grand Canal in Venice.

Map of Favorite Regions in Italy

The map below shows approximate locations of the main regions in Italy that I recommend you explore. I’ve visited all of them except for Sicily (coming soon!).

Map of Italy showing major tourist areas including Rome, Tuscany, and Venice

I’m going to start in the north and move south because we often drive to Italy, so that’s the direction we enter the country from.

Here are the five regions of Italy I suggest you explore:

  • Northern Italy: Turin, Lake Como, Milan, Dolomites
  • Venice and Ravenna
  • Tuscany and Umbria
  • Rome
  • Compania: Naples, Pompeii, Amalfi Coast

In this post, I give a brief overview of these areas and provide links to more in-depth posts.

Northern Italy

You could spend at least a week traveling through the regions of northern Italy.

Milan Cathedral at sunset
Milan Cathedral

From east to west, I recommend Turin, Lake Como, Milan, and the Dolomites. Spend at least a week in the north (not counting Venice which deserves at least three days on its own). You won’t run out of things to do!

Highlights of Northern Italy

Here are some of my favorite artsy highlights (a by no means an exhaustive list) in northern Italy:

  • Turin: The Egyptian Museum – Museo Egizio is first-rate. It houses one of the oldest collections of Ancient Egyptian artifacts in the world. Even if you’re only moderately interested in ancient Egypt, put it on your list.
  • Milan: The Duomo, Da Vinci’s Last Supper, and La Scala just for starters. There’s lots to see in Milan and it has a very different vibe (calmer in my opinion) than Rome.
  • Italian Lake District: Spend several days exploring small towns such as Sirmione on Lake Garda, the various lakes; gorgeous views, great food, lots of history.
  • The Dolomites: Drive as far up as you can and then take a chairlift or gondola even higher. The alpine culture is very different from the rest of Italy.
  • Bolzano: The South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology

For more details about these and other artsy sightseeing in northern Italy, check out Recommended Places to Travel in Northern Italy.

Venice

Don’t stint on the time you allocate to visiting Venice. The city is worth at least three days (preferably longer). You could choose to spend a week in the area–three or four nights in Venice, a night in the Veneto to visit Vicenza and Padua, and then head south to spend two nights in glorious Ravenna (more on Ravenna in a minute).

Rialto Bridge
Rialto bridge in stunning Venice

You don’t need a car in Venice and you can reach the other towns in the area by train.

Highlights of Venice

  • Peggy Guggenheim Museum – one of my very favorite small modern art museums in Europe (read more in 12 Modern Art Museums in Europe.
  • Piazza San Marco late at night when the crowds have thinned
  • Accademia Gallery – great selection of Renaissance and Baroque artists in a lovely, old building
  • Island of Murano to watch glass-blowing and buy glass souvenirs
  • Duomo and Doge’s Palace: must-see attractions, but go early or late and get reservations to avoid crowds
  • Enjoying a Vivaldi concert and getting lost in the dark on the way back to your hotel

For more details about these and other sightseeing options and to plan your trip to Venice, read Venice in Three Days for the Artsy Traveler.

Ravenna

Ravenna is a delightful small city south of Venice, most famous for the mosaics in the eight Christian monuments on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

While many of these sites, particularly the most famous mosaics in the Church of San Vitale, attract the tour busses, the rest of Ravenna is wonderfully non-touristy. Relax in the main square and watch the world go by. Ravenna has a subtle charm that made me want to write a novel set there just so I could go and stay for a good long while.

Piazza del Popolo in the evening, Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Piazza del Popolo in the evening, Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

While we were in Ravenna, we watched a bride and groom emerge from a church and get into a red Ferrari, stopped into an art opening and drank white wine with the two Italian artists who were exhibiting their paintings, and enjoyed one of the best meals we’ve ever had in Italy at Ristorante Alexander. Check out the website and make a reservation! The food was to die for and the prices very reasonable.

TIP: When dining in Italy, make use of review apps and websites to find good restaurants. Every time we’ve taken the time to search out well-rated restaurants and to make reservations, we’ve been amply rewarded by fabulous meals.

Highlights of Ravenna: Touring the UNESCO World Heritage Sites

The mosaics in the early Christian monuments are the big draw in Ravenna, as noted earlier.

TIP: Buy your combination ticket for the six UNESCO sites in central Ravenna at any of these locations: the Basilica San Vitale, Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, Neonian Baptistery, and the Archbishop’s Chapel.

The sixth site–the Arian Baptistery–is free and worth a visit to view the well-preserved domed mosaic, dating from the early 6th century AD, that shows Christ being baptized by John the Baptist.

At just €9.50 for entrance to all these sites, the Ravenna Mosaics combo ticket has to be one of Europe’s best artsy bargains. In addition to the six sites in central Ravenna, don’t miss the remaining two UNESCO sites. The mausoleum of Theodoric is a short walk from the town center, and the Church of Sant’Apollinare in Classe is an 8-kilometer drive towards the Adriatic coast.

Mosaic in Ravenna featuring the Empress Theodora
Mosaic in Ravenna featuring the Empress Theodora

Staying in Ravenna

We were driving when we visited Ravenna, and so, as usual, we stayed in a hotel on the outskirts. We then took taxis into the city and from there walked to seven of the eight UNESCO sites in the center of Ravenna. On our last morning in Ravenna, we drove to the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe.

For my hotel recommendations in Ravenna, read Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Tuscany and Umbria

Toscana! The very name evokes warmth and good living and beauty while at the same time associated with a deliciously turbulent history.

All those towers and walls and fortifications in towns such as San Gimignano and Siena and Lucca were not built back in the Middle Ages because life was easy. The architecture of Tuscan hill towns screams strife.

Fortress of Montalcino in Tuscany
The Fortress of Montalcino, a hill town in Tuscany

At the same time, the museums and churches of Tuscany burst at the seams with art–much of it created between 1300 and 1600, from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance.

We’ve been visiting Tuscany for years and plan to return. We’ve only recently “discovered” Umbria and were taken with its less touristy, more authentic atmosphere. While I love Tuscany, it can get overrun with visitors, particularly in Florence.

TIP: I recommend allocating at least a week to exploring Tuscany and another week for Umbria. Spend a few days in Florence to see the highlights and then if you have a car, find a house or an agriturismo property to rent for several days or a week in or near one of the medieval towns in Tuscany. Take day trips to other towns, bearing in mind that driving in Tuscany can be slow going on the twisty, narrow roads.

In a typical week, reserve a few days for just staying put and enjoying bella Toscana.

If you don’t have a car, you can still stay in the country, but choose a place that provides some assistance with transportation. You can join local tours such as wine tours (highly recommended!). Some properties offer cooking classes and painting classes.

After your week in Tuscany, spend a week in Umbria. The areas around Perugia or Assisi are good choices.

You won’t run out of things to see. I guarantee it!

For plenty of recommendations and suggestions, read Exploring Tuscany, Umbria and La Dolce Vita and Exploring San Gimignano in Tuscany. Also check out Art Masterpieces in Tuscany Who Don’t Want to Miss.

Rome

The Eternal City takes hold of your psyche with the weight of its 2,000-plus-year history and the central role it has played in the development of western culture.

Rome will not be denied.

Piazza Navona in Rome
Piazza Navona in Rome in the morning

I’ve visited Rome several times since my first trip there with my parents in 1974. During our most recent trip, Gregg and I spent ten days enjoying the city during Gregg’s exhibition of his paintings at a gallery near the Vatican. We lived like locals in an apartment in the same area and set aside time every day to explore new areas of Rome.

Read my Rome recommendations and a suggested itinerary for a three-day visit in The Best of Rome in Three Days.

Here are additional suggestions for what to see in Rome, including tours.

Naples and the Compania

Naples is kind of crazy–or at least it was when I visited a few years ago. We keep meaning to get down there again to see how or if it’s changed. I rather hoped it hasn’t.

I have a vivid memory of being driven in a taxi through downtown Naples and noticing how the driver barely slowed down at stop signs caked with dirt. Apparently, obeying them was optional. The driver pulled up in front of the National Archeological Museum in Naples, reputed to be one of the best museums in Italy for Roman antiquities. He then turned around and announced chiuso. Closed.

Oh. Those were the days before the Internet took the guesswork out of travel planning. Our only day in Naples was also the only day of the week when the museum was always closed.

That mistake wouldn’t happen nowadays which is a good thing although sometimes I miss the serendipity of the “olden” days when plans could so easily be derailed.

View of the Bay of Naples, the city of Naples, and Vesuvius in the distance
View of the Bay of Naples, the city of Naples, and Vesuvius in the distance

Read my recommendations and a suggested itinerary for a Week in the Campania.

Conclusion

I have a lot of posts on Italy for you to explore. Here again are some of the ones I’ve already mentioned along with a few more.

Italian flag next to a small blackboard with the word "italy" on it

Why do I Love Italy?

Let me count the ways!

First, the landscape is varied and stunning. From the rolling hills of Tuscany to the rugged cliffs of the Amalfi coast and the dreamy canals of Venice, Italy has so much to offer travelers. We are constantly discovering new regions to explore. Our latest favorite is Umbria after spending two weeks there in 2018 during an exhibition of Gregg’s paintings in the charming town of Galdo Tardino.

Pinterest graphic with the text Why I Love Italy over an Italian flag.

When I’m not admiring the landscape of Italy, I’m immersed in its history. Between the Etruscans and the Romans, Italy is brimming with ancient sites. Every town and village traces its roots to at least Roman times and all have a central medieval core. The Middle Ages is my preferred historical period, and Italy brings both the medieval and the Renaissance periods to life every day, sometimes literally.

Stunning Umbrian landscape

I don’t think I’ve ever visited Italy and not seen people dressed in medieval garb at one of the many festivals and demonstrations of medieval life.

Costumed reveler at the Venice Carnival
Costumed reveler at the Venice Carnival

Food is another big draw in Italy. Tuck into steaming plates of pasta swimming in amazing sauces, eat your plate-sized paper-thin pizza with a knife and fork like the locals do, enjoy exquisitely prepared main courses, and finish off with desserts to die for. Italy is a gastronomic paradise.

And finally, there’s the art. From the Etruscans to the moderns, art is everywhere in Italy. Some of the most beautiful artworks in the western world were created in Italy and are still there to be admired, which is excellent news for the Artsy Traveler.

For more about what to see in Italy art-wise, check out these posts:

Also, take a look at posts for individual regions:

Here is one of my favorite artworks in Itlay, the fresco featuring the Empress Theodora in Ravenna.

 Stunning Byzantine art in Ravenna of Empress Theodora and her serving maids
Stunning Byzantine art in Ravenna

The Belvedere Palace in Vienna, with its ornate Baroque architecture and green domed roofs, reflecting in a large pond. A white statue of nymphs and sea creatures stands in the center of the water.

Visit These 15 Best Museums in Vienna

If you love museums, then Vienna is your town!

You can easily fill several days visiting Vienna’s world-class museums.

You’ll find museums that cater to just about every artsy interest–from painting to music to theater and much more.

In this post, I describe what I consider the 15 must-see museums for artsy travelers to visit while touring Vienna, one of my favorite European cultural capitals. 

A collage featuring Vienna’s museums, including the Kunsthistorisches Museum dome, the modernist Mumok building, the Belvedere Palace with a pond, and a colorful brick wall with glass bottles embedded in concrete. Bold white text reads "Best Vienna Museum Experiences" with the website "artsytraveler.com."

Vienna Museum Highlights at a Glance

Map of Vienna

Use the map below to get your bearings when touring Vienna. It’s a very walkable city with most of the museums clustered in the museum district.

This map was made with Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

Touring Museums in Vienna

So let’s dig into my suggestions for the 15 best museum experiences in Vienna.

As you’ll quickly discover, Vienna really is one of Europe’s best destinations for museum lovers.

The only trouble is that you need to pace yourself. All those long, marble-floored corridors are hard on the knees. Take your time! It’s better to enjoy fewer museums and enjoy yourself than try to see them all and be too exhausted to take in a concert in the evening and enjoy a plate of weiner schnitzel.

Assume you’ll return!

And while Vienna has some of the best museums in the world, it’s also a wonderful place to just sit back and watch the world go by. There’s a reason that Vienna consistently ranks in the top ten of the world’s most livable cities.

Here are my suggestions for 15 museums to visit in Vienna.

National Museums

#1: Kunsthistorisches Museum

Start at the Kunsthistorisches Museum (#1), Vienna’s answer to the Louvre and considered by many to be one of the best museums in all of Vienna.

Located at Maria-Theresien-Platz in the Imperial Palace complex, this fabulous (and HUGE) museum exhibits the art collection of the Habsburg family. They were also known as the House of Austria and for several hundred years ruled a large chunk of Europe.

Skip the line by purchasing your tickets online before you leave. You save time and are guaranteed entry into this marvelous museum.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum includes several collections.

The exterior of the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna, a grand building with domes, statues, and a manicured garden with a fountain in the foreground. This museum is one of the top museums to visit in Vienna.
Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna

Egyptian and Near Eastern

You’ll find one of the world’s most important collections of Egyptian antiquities at the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Take a tour of the collection which includes more than 17,000 objects. I always enjoy a good Egyptian museum, and the collection here is first-rate.

Greek and Roman Antiquities

The collection spans 3,000 years. I’m particularly fond of the Greek vases decorated with scenes of Greek life.

Kunstkammer Wien: The Cradle of the Museum

This relatively new area of the museum (opened in 2013) contains over 2,200 fabulous artworks. The Habsburg emperors were busy collectors from the late Middle Ages to the Baroque Age. You’ll find sculptures, clocks, objets d’art, scientific instruments, automatons, and a lot more.

The list goes on. Have a good look. You won’t regret it.

The collection in the Picture Gallery is nirvana for the art lover. You’ll find pieces by Pieter Bruegel the Elder that you’ll probably recognize if you like 16th-century Dutch painting and if you’ve ever taken a European art history course. 

You’ll also find masterpieces by Caravaggio, Titian, Rubens, and one of my favorites, Arcimboldo, who really had a way with food.

We bought a jigsaw puzzle of one of the Arcimboldo paintings in the marvelous museum gift shop. I do like a good museum giftshop and the one at the Kunsthistorisches has a great selection.

Giuseppe Arcimboldo - Summer - Google Art Project
Giuseppe Arcimboldo, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Collection of Historical Musical Instruments

I write about the incredible collection of historical musical instruments in Music Lover’s Guide to Vienna. On my solo trip to Vienna, I spent a happy afternoon enjoying the rooms full of pianos and harpsichords and various other instruments. The collection of Renaissance and Baroque instruments is reputed to be the finest in the world.

I was in heaven, particularly because this area of the massive museum was virtually empty. If I’d been so inclined, I could have played one of the pianos, and probably no one would have been the wiser.

Needless to say, I didn’t try. The prospect of even a short stay in a Viennese prison did not appeal, even if it’s likely to be well maintained and serve wiener schnitzel and torte.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum also includes the Coin Collection, an Armory, and lots more, but you get the picture. The museum is worth a good chunk of your day. Alternatively, pace yourself and space your visit across a few days. It depends on your stamina because plenty of museums await you in Vienna’s Museum Quarter.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum is open daily except Mondays from 10 am to 6 pm and on Thursdays from 10 am to 9 pm.

Here’s an option for that includes a guided tour:

Powered by GetYourGuide

#2: Natural History Museum

The architectural mirror image of the Kunsthistorisches Museum is the Museum of Natural History of Naturhistorisches Museum (#2) opposite it.

I have a soft spot for natural history museums, and Vienna’s is excellent, easily on par with the Natural History Museums in London, New York, and Washington.

The big draw is the squat statue of the wonderfully fecund Venus of Willendorf. She’s a clay figurine just 11.1 centimeters tall, reputed to have been made between 24,000 and 22,000 BCE, which is a long time ago on any calendar.

Although little is known about how or why she was made, you have to think her purpose had something to do with fertility.

I mean, seriously! Look at her!

Because she lacks defined facial features, some philosophers and archeologists view the Venus of Willendorf as representative of a universal mother.

Well, I certainly took to her. She’s displayed in a special, atmospherically lit case that will probably be surrounded by other museum-goers.

Figurine called the Venus of Willendorf on display at the Natural History Museum in Vienna.
Don Hitchcock, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creative
commons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0via Wikimedia Commons

Wait your turn and then spend a few minutes contemplating universal motherhood and also thinking about the people who made this exquisite figure.

How had they used her? Had she been cherished? I like to think so.

Animal Displays 

One of the museum’s many highlights being the massive second floor containing several high-ceilinged, ornate rooms stuffed to the ceiling with stuffed animals.

When we walked into the reptile room on our family trip, I had to sprint through it with my eyes closed.

Stuffed snakes in glass cages slithered every which way through the massive room. And I don’t mean the cute plush variety of stuffed snakes.

Oh no. I’m talking about very real, very menacing, very snakey snakes. Ugh!

Fortunately, the other rooms made up for the trauma of the reptile room. The Vienna Museum of Natural History gets top marks for taxidermy.

Museums in the Museum Quarter

Vienna’s Museum Quarter (MQ) (#3) in central Vienna is truly a remarkable cultural area. Housing over sixty cultural institutions, the MQ is one of the largest districts for contemporary art and culture in the world.

You’ll find museums and events devoted to art, architecture, music, fashion, theater, children’s culture, literature, dance, street art, photography, even gaming culture.

This is the place to be if you love the arts.

Highlights of the MQ directly related to visual art include viewing modern art at the Leopold Museum, MUMOK – the Museum of Modern Art and Kunsthalle Wien, and visiting the remarkable Kunst Haus Wien–Vienna’s first ecological museum.

The MQ is always open and entry is free. Relax in the various courtyards and engage in some serious people watching.

The Museum Quarter in Vienna, bustling with people seated on modern red benches, with the Mumok building in the background.
Hanging out in the Museum Quarter in Vienna

For more information about what’s on, including special events, check the MQ website and the websites for the individual museums. The range and breadth of cultural activities truly is breathtaking!

Here are four of the major art museums in the MQ.

#4: Leopold Museum

The Leopold Museum (#4) exhibits the world’s most important collection of paintings and works on paper by Egon Schiele.

Along with Gustav Klimt, Schiele is one of the best-known Austrian artists of the 20th century.

Painting of a woman in a striped dress by Austrian artist Egon Schiele on display at the Leopold Museum in Vienna, Austria, one of the 15 best museums in Vienna.
Egon Schiele, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

#5: MUMOK – Museum moderner Kunst Stiftung Ludwig Wien

MUMOK (#5) is the largest museum of modern and contemporary art in central Europe (and that’s saying something!).

You’ll find an amazing collection that features works of classical modernism (my favorite) by artists such as Picasso, Mondrian, and Magritte to mention only a few, along with pop art, Fluxus, minimal art, and concept art, as well as Vienna Actionism and contemporary art.

The exterior of the Mumok (Museum of Modern Art) in Vienna, a large gray modernist building with a curved facade and a broad staircase leading to the entrance.
MUMOK in the Museum Quarter in Vienna

#6: Kunsthalle Wien

The Kunsthalle Wien (#6) fcouses on temporary exhibitions of contemporary art. I confess I’m not generally a fan of contemporary art, but if you are, check the website for current exhibitions.

#7: Kunst Haus Wien

Vienna’s first ecological museum, the Kunst Haus Wien (#7), features contemporary art with a focus on photography. You have to check out the building–it’s remarkable with colorful tiles, uneven floors, and irregular structures.

The museum also houses the Museum Hundertwasser which displays the largest permanent collection of works by Friedensreich Hundertwasser who designed the building for the Kunst Haus Wien and is also one of Austria’s most famous artists and visionaries.

Here’s an option for purchasing tickets to the Kunst Haus Wien:

Powered by GetYourGuide

The Meeting Place at the MuseumsQuartier (MQ) is one of the largest cultural quarters in the world. You’ll need another day to tour the MQ and also hang out in its public spaces.

Other Top Museums in Vienna

#8: Belvedere Palace

You can’t visit Vienna and not visit the Belvedere Palace (#8)! It’s the home of the world’s largest collection of Klimt’s paintings, including his masterpiece, The Kiss, and the iconic Judith I.

You’ll also find an excellent 19th-century collection that includes work by Monet and van Gogh.

 Called The Kiss, this is a famous painting by Gustav Klimt depicting a couple embracing, covered in golden robes, surrounded by a field of colorful flowers. You can see this painting when you visit the Belvedere in Vienna.
Gustav Klimt, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The baroque Belvedere Palace itself is worth visiting to see its magnificent ornamental gardens and the stunning views of Vienna.

Here’s an option for visiting the Belvedere that includes a private guided tour:

Powered by GetYourGuide

#9: Albertina Museum

The Albertina Museum (#9) is located not far from the Vienna Opera House, and contains the world’s most important graphic collections along with works of art by Monet, Renoir, Chagall, Miro, Magritte, Munch, Picasso, and more. 

You can also visit the Albertina – Modern a few blocks away, which is Vienna’s new museum of modern art.

#10: Theater Museum Vienna

I always go out of my way to visit a museum dedicated to theater. My third novel, The Muse of Fire, is set in the theater.

The collection at the Theater Museum (#10) in Vienna includes over 1,000 stage models, 600 costumes, and a lot of props that bring the history of theater in Austria to life. So much to see!

#11: Jewish Museum 

Billed as the world’s first Jewish Museum, the Jewish Museum Vienna is the place to learn about Vienna’s Jewish life from the Middle Ages to the present (#11).

The permanent collection showcasing the Jewish community in medieval Vienna is particularly compelling. For two hundred years beginning in the thirteenth century, Vienna was a center of Jewish knowledge and learning. In 1420/21, the members of this first Jewish community were expelled and murdered by order of Duke Albert V. The recent discovery of the remains of the destroyed medieval synagogue drew attention to Vienna’s hitherto largely ignored medieval history.

#12: MAK – Museum of Applied Arts

The MAK Museum (#12) is a “museum for arts and the everyday world.” Its extensive collection focuses on the applied arts and the interface of design, architecture, and contemporary arts.

MAK showcases a special exhibition called « Vienna 1900 » with some of the most illustrious art nouveau designers.

MAK’s permanent   collection includes one of the world’s finest collection of lace and glassware, particularly Venetian glass (I’m a sucker for Venetian glass). You’ll also find a collection of textiles and carpets, and lots more.

#13: Wien Museum

I thoroughly enjoyed touring the Wien Museum with its displays showcasing the history and culture of Vienna over the centuries. The museum’s permanent exhibition is called “Vienna. My History” and provides the visitor with a chronological tour of the city — from the first settlement to the present day. 

When I was visiting Vienna to research A Woman of Note, I spent a long time in the Wien Museum getting a feel for what life was like in Vienna in the early 19th century.

I found the scale model of Vienna as it looked when it was still enclosed by a wall particularly interesting. In the 19th century, the wall was demolished and replaced with the Ring Road. 

A detailed scale model of Vienna, showcasing the city's historic architecture, winding streets, and bridges over a river. The model is housed in an octagonal glass case, highlighting intricate features such as buildings, city walls, and surrounding greenery. This model is a highlight of a visit to the Wien Museum in Vienna.

Music Museums in Vienna

Vienna is the City of Music and home to an impressive number of the world’s most famous composers–Beethoven, Mozart, Haydn, Schubert, Strauss, and Mahler.

And several more composers stopped by to perform, including Chopin, Liszt, Schumann (Robert and Clara), and Brahms.

#14: Pascqualati House

A highlight of my solo trip to Vienna was visiting Pasqualati House (#13) where Beethoven lived and worked for a while. He changed apartments a lot, apparently.

Another good choice of Beethoven lovers (and who isn’t?!) is the Beethoven Museum. 

Carol Cram stands in front of Pasqualati House where Beethoven once lived. It is an historic building with tall windows and red-and-white striped flags hanging above a plaque.
Me in front of Vienna’s Pasqualati House, one of the places where Beethoven lived

#15: The House of Music

Also known as the House of Sound (#14), this celebration of music–particularly classical music (my favorite)–is spine-tinglingly awesome! I could sepnd days here exploring five floors of first-rate, music-themed exhibits.

Try your hand at conducting the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra and find out it’s not as easy as it looks!

#16: Mozarthaus Museum

Mozart lived in several houses in the city during his short and tumultuous life. The only one that survives is the Mozarthaus Museum (#15) at Domgasse #5, where he lived from 1784 to 1787.

The museum sprawls over 1,000 square meters on six levels and is a place of pilgrimage for Mozart lovers. Here’s an option for purchasing tickets.

https://www.getyourguide.com/vienna-l7/vienna-tickets-for-mozarthaus-vienna-with-audio-guide-t35669/?ranking_uuid=d319443f-af37-4fc9-8491-1e4a19ab494f

For more information about these and other top music sites to visit in Vienna, read Music Lover’s Guide to Vienna.

Museum Passes

If you enjoy touring museums and have two or more days in Vienna, consider purchasing a Vienna PASS.

You’ll be able to skip the line to popular attractions, get in free to more than 60 attractions, including the Belvedere Palace and St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and ride the hop-on hop-off sightseeing bus. It’s a pretty good deal and it saves you time.

Another option is the Vienna City Card.

Another less expensive option is the Vienna Flexi PASS that allows you to customize your itinerary.

Vienna Tours

Here are some GetYourGuide tours of Vienna.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Vienna Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Vienna!

Other recommended posts about Austria and Vienna:

Have you been to Vienna? What are your favorite museums? Let us know in the comments below.

Novels Set in Italy Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

So many authors (including myself!) have set novels in Italy–and no wonder! With its rich history, gorgeous landscape, and fascinating cultures, Italy never fails to be inspiring.

In this post, I feature a selection of novels that are not only set in Italy, but also relate in some way to the arts.

A promotional image combining several book covers, framed with a red background and text highlighting "12 Compelling Novels Set in Italy," complemented by the Italian flag at the bottom.

The Night Portrait by Laura Morelli

A thrilling dual-time historical novel set in 1492 and World War II about the creation of one of da Vinci’s most famous paintings.

The book cover for The Night Portrait by Laura Morelli features a woman with blonde hair wearing a blue beret and coat, her back turned to the viewer. Below, sepia-toned images depict historical scenes, including soldiers, artwork, and a portrait, reflecting themes of World War II and Renaissance Italy. The title appears in large white letters, with the subtitle "A Novel of World War II and Da Vinci's Italy" in a blue circular badge.

Blood Water Paint by Joy McCullough

Artemisia Gentileschi was one of the most talented painters of the Baroque era and one of the most famous female painters of all time. Her story is riveting.

A bold and artistic cover with rich, textured brushstrokes blending shades of blue, gold, and red, evoking the themes of art and emotion.

The Art of Traveling Strangers by Zoe Disigny

One woman’s journey of self-discovery and personal empowerment inspired by the great art masterpieces of Milan, Venice, Ravenna, Florence, Siena, Rome, and Paris.

A vibrant and colorful cover resembling a vintage travel poster, featuring illustrations of Italian landmarks and a stylish woman in a hat and sunglasses.

The Towers of Tuscany by Carol M. Cram

Set in 14th-century San Gimignano and Siena, the novel follows the journey of a woman painter who risks everything to do what she loves.

The cover showcases a striking image of a medieval Tuscan town with its prominent towers, overlaid by a woman's contemplative face in soft, muted tones.

Vivaldi’s Virgins by Barbara Quick

A fascinating glimpse inside the source of Vivaldi’s musical legacy, combined with the captivating story of an exceptional young woman’s coming of age in a deliciously reminiscent place and time.

A serene cover depicting a young woman in period attire holding a flute, set against a backdrop of Venice with its famous waterways and historical architecture.

Oil and Marble by Stephanie Storey

Stephanie Storey brings early 16th-century Florence alive, entering with extraordinary empathy into the minds and souls of two Renaissance masters–Michelangelo and da Vinci to create a stunning art history thriller. 

Featuring a warm, textured background with ornate architectural details of Renaissance Italy, this cover sets an artistic tone with the title prominently displayed in white serif font.

The Wedding Shroud by Elisabeth Storrs

The first in the richly-imagined Tales of Ancient Rome trilogy set in the time of the Etruscans.

The cover depicts a woman in a dramatic red dress, her back turned to the viewer as she faces a dark background, suggesting intrigue and romance.

Lady in Ermine by Donna DiGiuseppe

An historical biographical novel that tells the fascinating story of Renaissance artist Sofonisba Anguissola.

The cover shows a Renaissance-style portrait of a young woman with a subtle, reserved smile, wearing a black dress with a white collar, set against a dark backdrop.

The Most Beautiful Woman in Florence by Alyssa Palombo

A lush and sensual interpretation of Medici Florence, artist Sandro Botticelli, and the muse that inspired them all.

A book cover featuring a woman with long, flowing auburn hair gazing downward, set against a pink and orange background of Florence's skyline with its iconic Duomo.

Juliet by Anne Fortier

A young American woman discovers that her family’s origins reach all the way back to literature’s greatest star-crossed lovers.

A book cover featuring a dramatic red rose in close-up with a historical Italian cityscape in the background. The title, "Juliet," is elegantly displayed at the top, evoking themes of romance and mystery.

The Serpent of Venice by Christopher Moore

A gleeful mashup of Shakespeare’s The Merchant of Venice and Othello: Greed, revenge, deception, lust, and a giant (but lovable) sea monster combine to create another hilarious and bawdy tale from modern comic genius, Christopher Moore.

A vibrant blue book cover showcasing a whimsical gondola scene with a masked character standing against a moonlit background. The title, "The Serpent of Venice," is written in bold, stylized font.

Midnight at the Tuscany Hotel by James Markert

A story of memories lost and found that explores the mysteries of the mind, the truth behind lore, and the miracle of inspiration.

A colorful book cover featuring a mosaic-style design with the title "Midnight at the Tuscany Hotel" in bold red and yellow letters. A small clock is incorporated within the title, set against a background reminiscent of Italian tilework.

Have you read a novel set in Italy, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts to enjoy as you plan your adventures in Italy:

Six Favorite Regions in France

Each region in France has much to offer, and over the years, I’ve traveled in just about all of them.

But if I had to narrow down my choices to just six different regions that I recommend to artsy-inclined travelers, I’d choose Normandy, Brittany, the Loire, the Dordogne, Provence/Côte d’Azur, and of course, Paris.

This post presents an overview of my six favorite regions to visit in France with links to more detailed posts.

If you want to fully explore these regions, consider renting a car. My post on Driving in Europe gives you some pointers gleaned from our three decades of experience exploring Europe by car.

The Eiffel Tower viewed from a distance, framed by pink magnolia flowers, with the text "Favorite Regions in France" and "ArtsyTraveler.com" overlaid.

Map of France showing recommended regions to explore in France
Recommended regions to explore in France

Normandy

Rolling fields, picture-perfect villages, and searing World War II history make Normandy in northern France an awesome destination.

I lived for two months at an artist-in-residence place in the Perche region of Normandy a few years ago. When my husband, artist Gregg Simpson, and I weren’t being artists/writers in residence, we spent several happy days exploring this under-touristed area.

Favorite Places in Normandy

The Perche Region

This far-off-the-beaten-track area has no big sites, but the countryside is lovely. Take a detour through it while driving up to the coast.

World War II Beaches

As a Canadian, I was moved by the museum at Juno Beach where Canadian troops landed on D-Day. You should also visit the Caen Memorial Museum, which is considered the best World War II museum in France. I found it fascinating.

Honfleur and the Satie Museum

Honfleur is a mecca for artists with lots of galleries and beautiful architecture. Linger at a cafe in the harbor and then don’t miss the quirky Satie Museum–an artsy-traveler must-see.

Bayeux and the Bayeux tapestry

The clever way in which the tapestry is exhibited is almost as captivating as the tapestry itself. And the town of Bayeux is just delightful. Plan to spend at least half a day exploring.

Mont St. Michel

It’s crowded and touristy, but go in the late afternoon to enjoy the sunset after the crowds leave.

Étretat

These stunning white chalk cliffs were a favorite of Monet and other Impressionist painters. Wander along the cliff tops of this incredible coastline and marvel at the fascinating shapes sculpted by the wind.

The famous white chalk cliffs and natural arch at Étretat, Normandy, towering above the turquoise sea with a green grassy hilltop.
The stunning area of Étretat was a favorite of Monet’s

If you’re not driving, consider visiting Normandy on a guided tour from Paris. Tours include the Normandy D-Day Beaches and the Abbaye du Mont Saint-Michel.

For more details about what to see and do in Normandy, see Top Normandy Sights for Art & History Lovers. I also include Honfleur on the Normandy coast in my post on 17 Awesome Places in France You Might Not Know.

Brittany

I adore Brittany. Every time I visit the area, I say We really ought to spend more time in Brittany.

I recommend visiting Brittany in the summer when the weather is pleasantly warm rather than torrid like it is farther south. Beautiful sandy beaches vie for your attention with craggy coves and spectacular rock formations.

Favorite Places in Brittany

Rennes

This charming town with its half-timbered houses is a real delight. Stay the night and enjoy wandering around its virtually empty and picturesque streets.

Pont-Aven

This charming village is a pilgrimmage destination for art lovers. In the 1880s, it was a mecca for such notable artists as Gauguin and Serusier. Walk in their footsteps in the Bois d’Amour (the Wood of Love) and see why they loved the area so much. I recently spent a week there; check out my post: Savoring Life in Pont-Aven: City of Artists

Cote de Granit-Rose

This rugged coastline in northern Brittanny is a photographer’s dreamscape. Stay a few days to enjoy the seaside and the fabulously shaped rocks.

Carnac and other prehistory sites

Brittany is home to France’s most concentrated collection of Celtic and prehistoric sites. Standing stones abound in this history-steeped region. Check out my post on Prehistory Sites in Europe that includes several places in Brittany.

Saint-Malo

This walled town recently made famous by All The Light We Cannot See makes a great home base for exploring the northern coast.

A coastal landscape with large, rugged pink granite rock formations by a calm, blue sea under a clear sky.
Côte de granit rose in northern Brittany

Consider at least a week’s stay in Brittany, or better still, three or four days on the north coast around Trégastel and three or four days on the south coast near Carnac.

The Loire Valley

Châteaux are exceedingly thick on the ground in the Loire Valley thanks to the Loire Atlantique region being the playground for the kings of France until kings rather suddenly went out of fashion.

A majestic Renaissance château spanning a river, with arched bridges, towers, and ornate architecture set against a backdrop of trees and blue sky.
Château of Chenonceau in the Loire Valley

Favorite Places in the Loire Valley

Spend a week here to tour not only the big (and crowded) blockbuster châteaux like Chambord and Chenonceau, but also the more intimate, even quirky ones like Villandry and Azay-Le-Rideau.

Rochemenier Cave Village (Rochemenier Village Troglodytique)

Visit the cave dwelling village museum to discover the underground houses inhabited for centuries. This place is amazing!

Château de Chenonceau

It’s hard to choose the most beautiful chateau in the Loire Valley, but Chenonceau with its graceful arches spanning the River Cher is definitely a contender.

Château de Chambord

This is the largest chateau in the Loire and also the most crowded. It’s definitely impressive, but go early or late in the day. 

Château Azay-le-Rideau

This is one of my favorite chateaux in the Loire Valley. It’s incredibly photogenic!

Chinon

Registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Chinon makes a great home base for exploring the eastern Loire Valley, and it also famous for its wine, castle, and historic town. 

Chartres Cathedral

The cathedral has incredible stained glass windows. Visit on a day trip from Paris or en route to the chateaux in the Loire Valley.

In addition to châteaux-hopping, consider an extended stay in the Loire Valley because, let’s face it, the region is drop-dead gorgeous. Rent a bike or go on a walking tour to immerse yourself in the fairy tale landscape. Also, the food in the Loire is exceptional (and that’s saying something!).

If your time is limited, consider a day trip from Paris to tour at least a few of the châteaux.

The Dordogne Valley

The Dordogne is an excellent choice for two reasons: prehistoric caves and amazing food. Spend at least a week exploring the beautiful towns and villages of this interesting region of France. 

Favorite Places in the Dordogne Region

Les Eyzies

This charming little town is home to the National Museum of Prehistory, a must-see if you’re interested in the prehistoric history of the Dordogne.

Lascaux IV

Don’t miss the cave art sites scattered throughout the region including the super-famous (and justifiably so) Caves of Lascaux. I write about them in more depth in my post on Prehistory Sites in Europe and Why Visit Lascaux in the Stunning Dordogne.

Montignac

The charming village of Montignac near Lascaux makes an excellent home base for exploring the area.

Sarlat-la-Canéda

This medieval town hosts an indoor food market, and a glass elevator in the bell tower offers city views. Wander around its ancient streets in the early morning to catch the sunshine bouncing off the yellow sandstone buildings.

Bergerac

Famous for its vineyards and old town center, Bergerac is close to fortified medieval towns called bastides, with Monpazier and Eymet. being particularly noteworthy examples.

If you have a hankering for gorgeous scenery mixed with compelling prehistory sightseeing followed by long, slow dinners where duck often plays a role, then meander down to the Dordogne.

A picturesque village in Dordogne, France, featuring historic stone houses with red-tiled roofs surrounded by lush greenery and a cloudy sky.
Gorgeous villages are waiting to be explored in the Dordogne

Provence

I dare you to say Provence without sighing!

Ah, Provence! See?

Endless rows of blooming purple lavender fields stretch toward a lone tree under a bright blue sky, with distant mountains in the background.
Enjoy lavender fields like this in the Luberon region of Provence

Like Tuscany, Provence has earned its reputation as one of Europe’s most beautiful regions. Settle in for a good long visit to discover why so many artists made their homes here (Picasso, van Gogh, Renoir, Cezanne, Lèger, Matisse, and I’m sure I’m forgetting a bunch).

I think it has a lot to do with the light. Every time Gregg and I visit Provence, Gregg is inspired by the unique way in which light floods a landscape of sharp contrasts—soft greens and lavenders, hard whites and ochers, startling blues.

Favorite Places in Provence

Luberon

This is still one of my favorite regions of Provence. Don’t miss Roussillon with its ocher cliffs, along with the hill towns Bonnieux and Gordes. In recent years, the Luberon has become rather “chichi”, as in scores of well-heeled people driving nice cars and living in lavender-coated villas, but the food is still wonderful, the weather warm, and the landscape stunning.

Avignon

The Pope’s Palace in Avignon is a lot of fun to explore. The last time I was there, a Picasso exhibition was on. Before you go, check to see if any special art exhibitions are featured.

Fondation Maeght

Nestled in the hills near Saint Paul-de-Vence above Cannes, this charming place is one of my favorite small art museums in Europe. Read about it in my post on Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe

Arles

Van Gogh lived here for only a few months but that was enough to put Arles on the map for art lovers. It’s a delightful town, worth a few days of your time to just kick back, relax, and enjoy the ambiance. 

Aix-en-Provence

Home of Cezanne, Aix-en-Provence is a great place to kick back and spend a week. Don’t miss the wonderful Hotel de Caumont Art Center which almost always has excellent art exhibitions, drive out to Chateau La Coste and wander around the vineyards and forest paths to look at striking modern sculpture, and drop into the Fondation Vasarely to see Vasarely’s geometric masterpieces.

Gorges du Verdon

Provence is a region of mountains with many tiny, twisty roads leading up into the Alpes Maritimes and into the French Alps. Take some time to explore the rugged Gorges du Verdon.

The French Riviera

Spend at least some of your time with the beautiful people. Cannes is a good choice for a home base.

Another central option is Nice, or my favorite, Menton, which is very close to the Italian border.

And while you’re in the area, visit some of the many single-artist museums such as the Fondation Leger in Biot and the Matisse Museum in Nice.

Provence is big enough to deserve a two-week stay, or at least a week divided in two. I suggest enjoying the stunning countryside in the Luberon region for a week and then driving down to the French Riviera to hang with the beautiful people (and see a ton of art) while basking in the Mediterranean sun. 

A panoramic view of Villefranche-sur-Mer with turquoise waters filled with sailboats, a marina, and vibrant Mediterranean architecture backed by green hills.
Spend some time on the fabled Riviera in the south of France

Paris and the Île de France

If you’re planning your first visit to France, Paris will likely be on your itinerary. It’s a must-see city in Europe if you are in any way artsy inclined.

Paris is home to dozens of art museums and galleries in addition to the big-ticket sights like the Eiffel Tower (go early or late to avoid the crowds), the Arc de Triomphe, and the Champs-Élysées.

A stunning view of the Eiffel Tower standing tall with the Seine River and a bridge in the foreground, set against a colorful sunset sky with scattered clouds.
Le Tour Eiffel–see it early or late to avoid crowds

To truly appreciate Paris, rent an apartment and settle in for the long haul. For the entire month of March one year, Gregg and I stayed in an apartment in Montparnasse. He spent his mornings painting and I spent my mornings writing, and then we set out almost every afternoon to explore the artsy delights of Paris.

Favorite Places in Paris and the Île de France

Musée d’Orsay

With its world renowned collection of paintings from the late 19th century, the Musée d’Orsay is a who’s who of famous painters: Van Gogh, Monet, Manet, Morisot, Renoir, Gauguin… You name it!

This museum is always on my must-see list every time I visit Paris.

L’Orangerie

Here’s where you’ll see Monet’s waterlily paintings. The experience of walking through the two rooms surrounded by his tranquil and very large paintings is sublime. 

Luxembourg Gardens

This is Paris’s playground that many visitors never see. Go there to relax and people watch. 

Musée Cluny

I adore medieval art and the collection at the Cluny AKA the Musée national du Moyen Âge is one of the world’s best. Don’t miss the Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries. 

Pompidou

For early to mid-20th century modern art, there’s few better places then the Centre Pompidou. Check out iconic works by Miro, Dali, Ernst, Pollock, and a lot more. It’s a treasure trove!

Île de France

There’s lots to see in a day trip from Paris including Versailles (the gardens go on forever and the Hall of Mirrors is jaw-dropping), Monet’s gardens at Giverney, and the chateau and forest of Fontainebleau where artists of the Barbizon school back in the 19th century did a lot of plein air painting.

I’ve never ran out of things to see in Paris. In fact, a stopover in Paris has been on my itinerary for almost all of our dozen-plus trips to Europe.

Here are some suggestions for things to see, skip-the-line tickets, and tours in Paris.

Other Regions in France

I’ve limited myself to just six of the best regions to visit in France (in my opinion!), but if you have the time, there’s a lot more to explore. Every region in France has a great deal to offer.

In Eastern France, tour the Alsace region, pop into lovely Strasbourg, take a canal trip in Burgundy (check out the wine route!), and visit Dijon with its half-timbered buildings and great food.

While touring Southeast France, check out the Alps, with Mont Blanc a highlight.

In Western France, don’t miss Bordeaux, Bayonne (the Basque Museum is marvelous), Biarritz, and Toulouse, then venture down to the Pyrenees.

Also check out the walled city of Carcassone (go early or late to avoid crowds) and Albi, famous for the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum.

And on your way to Provence, explore the Auvergne in central France and then stop by charming Lyon where you’ll find lots to see and a wonderful culinary tradition. 

Conclusion

What is your favorite region in France? Share your suggestions for other artsy travelers in the comments below.