Burgos is the provincial capital of Castilla y León in northern Spain. Its location on the Camino de Santiago route makes it a natural stopping point for pilgrims traveling the Way. This gorgeous medieval city is well worth a day or two of any traveler’s time.
If you’re traveling in northern Spain, put Burgos on your itinerary. Major sights include:
One of Spain’s most magnificent cathedrals
A castle
An atmospheric old city
Excellent museums, including the world-class Museo de Evolución Humana
The wonderfully photogenic Arco de Santa Maria
Wonderful food.
Museo de Evolución Humana
The Museo de Evolución Humana (#1) (Museum of Human Evolution) is simply terrific and a highlight of our travels in northern Spain. The modern glass construction with high open spaces houses three floors of authentic and reproduction artifacts, including bones, skulls, animal jaws, tools, and portable art.
Adults and kids alike enjoy the interactive displays and quizzes, the videoclips of recent discoveries, the various re-enactments and interpretations of early humans’ social behaviours, and marvellous representations of various members of Australopithecus and Homo.
The museum also includes exhibits on Atapuerca, the archaeological site north of Burgos. Here, Europe’s oldest human fossil remains were discovered in 2007. We walked past Atapuerca on our way into Burgos.
Standing stones near Atapuerca in the Province of Burgos and near the Way
Lucky for us, the museum was almost empty. We were able to spend as much time as we liked in front of the various displays and interactive activities.
Statue of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar
On your way from the museum back to the central plaza in Burgos, you pass a statue of hometown boy Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, better known as El Cid, who was born in Burgos in 1043 and died in 1099.
Statue of El Cid mounted on horseback with sword in Burgos
El Cid was a Castilian knight and warlord who became a Spanish folk hero and national icon as a result of his service in the armies of both Christian and Muslim rulers, and his temporary conquest of Valencia. El Cid is the protagonist in the most significant medieval Spanish epic poem, El Cantar de Mio Cid.
The Cathedral of Burgos
The 13th-century Cathedral of Burgos (#2)—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—is massive, incorporating the church itself, the cloisters, the Bishop’s Palace, and part of the original city walls. The interior has three naves separated by rows of huge columns and flanked by fifteen side chapels containing altars, tombs, relics, and precious artifacts.
Burgos Cathedral is one of the most important cathedrals in Spain.
Everywhere you look, whether on the facades or inside the cathedral, you’ll see decoration or carving. The term “el horror del vacío” (“the horror of empty space”) was never so applicable as in the interior of Burgos Cathedral.
The magnificent star-vaulted dome and the spectacular rose windows are awe-inspiring. Also amazing are the gold plating and ornate carvings on the retablo of the high altar that depicts the life of the Virgin Mary.
Altar in the Cathedral of Burgos
Saints, angels, the nobility, important clergy, and the monarchs appear below the deities—a reminder of God’s absolute power.
One of the highlights in the cathedral is a portrait of Mary Magdalene by Leonardo da Vinci (~1515 ). We also saw one of El Cid’s trunks and a small wooden door with a carved face into whose mouth pilgrims inserted small coins.
If you go, rent the audio guide to learn about the art and architecture. The Cathedral of Burgos ranks alongside the likes of Westminster Abbey, Notre Dame in Paris, and Milan Cathedral—but without the crowds.
Burgos Castle
Include a visit to Burgos Castle (#3), with its original structure and fortifications dating to the 9th century. The small museum is interesting, but the real attraction is the spectacular view over the city of Burgos.
Arco de Santa Maria
The Arco de Santa Maria (#4) is one of the twelve medieval doors that led into the medieval city of Burgos. Rebuilt by Charles V in the 16th century, the structure is worth a stop to admire the carvings on the facade. You can go inside to view special exhibitions and a small museum. At night, the Arco de Santa Maria is beautifully illuminated.
Arco de Santa Maria in Burgos
Tours in Burgos
Here are some options for tours in Burgos through GetYourGuide:
León is a delightful small city that is a bit off the beaten path but worth a visit for its magnificent cathedral, beautiful old town, and the chance to stay in Parador de León, Hostal de San Marcos, Spain’s top parador (see description below).
We stayed two nights in León which, like Burgos, is situated on the Camino. In fact, the Camino crosses the large plaza in front of the parador. The distinctive concha design symbolizing the Camino is everywhere in León, including on the facades of the buildings.
Historic Center of León
The historic centre of León is utterly charming, with narrow streets and very old and historic buildings. Some of the architecture incorporates the city walls of Roman times. You’ll find plenty of small and large plazas lined with outdoor cafés and interesting shops.
Take time to wander around the town, even occasionally getting lost while appreciating the beauty of this wonderfully walkable city.
León Cathedral
Often dubbed La Casa de la Luz (House of Light), the 13th-century Catedral Santa María de León (#5) is magnificent. Soaring sandstone towers glow in the evening light, and the interior is breathtaking, with three rose windows instead of the usual one.
Cathedral of León in Spain
The cathedral was built on the site of the 2nd-century Roman baths, which were converted to a royal palace around the year 1000. A masterpiece of Gothic architecture, the cathedral consists of two towers with a large portal between them, and flying buttresses crusted with gargoyles on the exterior walls.
León is often referred to as the city of stained glass, and no wonder. Windows dating from the 13th to the 15th century contain over 1,800 square meters of stained glass. Also inside the cathedral are hundreds of pieces of sacred art, including examples from Romanesque to Neoclassical times.
León’s cathedral is one of the most important along the Way.
Basilica of San Isidro
Don’t miss the smaller but equally enchanting Basilica of San Isidro (#6). Located on the site of an ancient Roman temple, the church’s Christian roots extend to the early 10th century when a monastery for Saint John the Baptist was erected on the grounds.
Basilica of San Isidro, León – Spain
Built in the Romanesque style, the basilica also has elements of both Gothic and Islamic architecture. Check out the 12th-century painted murals in the funeral chapel of the kings of León. The exceptionally well-preserved murals present New Testament subjects as well as scenes of contemporary rural life.
Stay at the Parador de León
The Parador de León (#7) is one of the most luxurious places I’ve ever stayed. Sponsored by the Spanish government, the parador system of lodgings includes refurbished historic buildings, such as castles, monasteries, and royal residences. The system also includes some purpose-built, modern hotels.
Parador San Marcos in León
For five-star luxury, we paid about €170 each for two nights—a serious bargain, considering the service and surroundings.
King Ferdinand founded the Parador de León, Hostal de San Marcos in the early 16th century as a church and hospital for knights of the Order of Saint James. Some of the original staircase has been preserved, as have the curved ceilings, chandeliers, and cloister windows. Fabulous portraits and Renaissance artifacts and armour adorn the lobby and corridors.
Our room—which we accessed with a large skeleton key—was located in one of the converted monks’ cells in the cloister. The room was beautifully appointed with 1000-count monogrammed sheets, slippers, and luxury toiletries.
Museum at the Parador
Visit the church and museum attached to the parador. The original buildings were erected on the remains of a Roman fortress, and the church dates from the mid-12th century. Many sarcophagi and Roman stelae from ancient times dot the lovely cloister gardens. Sadly, parts of the church grounds have a darker past when they served as a prison for suspected or accused fighters in the Spanish Civil War.
Tours in León
Here are some options for tours in León through Tiqets.com:
Conclusion
Even if you’re not walking the Camino, put Burgos and León on your itinerary in northern Spain. For more information about places to visit in northern Spain, including both Santiago de Compostela and Bilbao, see Exploring Northern Spain and Basque Country.
Everyone I know who has walked the Camino of Santiago (the Way) to Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain raves about the experience.
My friend and guest poster Elizabeth Petrie is no exception. She and her friend, Cheri, walked the Camino from Pamplona to Burgos and from Sarria to Santiago, with train travel between Burgos, León, and Sarria.
Elizabeth shares her experiences and recommendations in three posts on Artsy Traveler. In this post, learn her top tips for enjoying the Camino of Santiago. To find out how Elizabeth and Cheri organized their walk, read A Camino Journal: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela. Elizabeth’s recommendations for Burgos and León are included in Exploring Burgos and León.
Guest Poster Elizabeth Petrie
Retirement brings new opportunities, and one of my most cherished is having the chance to travel. New places, unique experiences, wonderful memories—what could be more enticing?
For a long time, walking across northern Spain on the Camino has topped my “bucket list.” My friend, Cheri, shared the same interest, so we decided to make plans to walk the Camino together.
Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago
Here are tips for helping you plan an awesome experience on the Camino of Santiago.
Prepare for the Camino of Santiago
Distance walking was new to me, so I started training about a year before leaving for Spain. Cheri and I began with modest treks of six to eight kilometers twice a week and worked up to walks of ten to twelve kilometers. By the time we left for Spain, we could comfortably walk about fourteen kilometers with our backpacks partially full.
Plan Your Itinerary
The Camino of Santiago extends across several countries and hundreds of kilometers. Start in France on the Camino Francés or complete all or a portion of the Camino del Norte like we did.
We put together an itinerary that included stays in four-star hotels in the cities we’d pass through: Pamplona, Burgos, León, and our final destination, Santiago de Compostela. We knew we’d appreciate a bit of luxury after days of slogging along and nights spent in the dormitory-like albergues.
An albergue is a hostel that provides accommodation only for pilgrims walking the Camino of Santiago. To stay in an albergue, you need to have a Pilgrims Passport.
Obtain a Pilgrims Passport
The Pilgrims Passport contains spaces for the sellos (stamps) that prove you’ve walked that day and are entitled to stay in one of the state-run albergues.
If you start the Camino from St. Jean in France or from Pamplona, like we did, you need to get one stamp per day. If you walk only the last 100 kilometers from Sarria, you need to get two stamps each day.
So long as you have sufficient stamps and you state at the Pilgrims Office in Santiago de Compostela that you’ve completed the Camino for religious or spiritual reasons, you’ll receive the Compostela at the end of the journey in Santiago.
If you state other reasons for completing the Camino, you receive a different certificate to commemorate your journey.
You can also get a passport at some albergues and pilgrims’ offices along the Way.
However, to save time, I recommend you obtain your Pilgrims Passport before you leave. To do so, connect with the Pilgrims’ Association in your home country.
For other organizations, search online for Pilgrims’ Association and the name of your country.
Choose When to Go
Consider walking the Camino in May or September. The weather from June to August is too hot, the hotel prices are higher, and the Way is much more crowded.
We found that May was perfect with regard to both the weather and the crowds (or lack of!). While you definitely won’t run into crowds in the winter months, be aware that many of the smaller albergues are closed from mid-October to mid-April.
Purchase a Guidebook
I recommend A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago (Camino Francés): St. Jean – Roncesvalles – Santiago by John Brierley. The book includes all the information you’ll need: route and town maps, and the location of coffee shops, restaurants, and albergues. The book also lists telephone numbers of the albergues so that you can book ahead.
Plan Your Daily Walk Duration
Plan to walk no more than 15 to 18 kilometers in a day (about five hours), depending on the terrain.
This distance is long enough to give you a reasonable goal, time to stop for sightseeing and meals, and the best chance of finding accommodations. Also, we found that blisters started forming if we attempted to walk more than 22 kilometers in one day.
On most days, we left the albergue around 8 am and arrived at our next albergue in the mid-afternoon. The earlier you get to the albergue you plan to stay in, the better your chances of finding accommodations. Many albergues do not take reservations, although sometimes you can speak with the hospitalero and ask them to call ahead for you.
Book Accommodations for the Final 100 Kilometers
While you do not need to book accommodations along the early stretches of the Way (and often you cannot), you should book places to stay along the last 100 kilometers.
The Way becomes increasingly crowded the closer you get to Santiago. We used booking.com to book small hotels along the last stretch of the Way and were glad we did. Each place we booked was clean and conveniently located.
Here are some tips for helping you enjoy your time on the Camino.
Use the Send-Ahead Pack Service
Send your main pack ahead and hike with just a day pack. The send-ahead service was well worth the few extra euros (usually €3 to €5 per pack). You can send your pack from any Camino albergue in the morning to the albergue at your next stopping point. Call ahead to make sure the albergue you plan on staying at has available beds and will be open when the van arrives with your pack.
Take a Day Pack
Pack the following items in your day pack:
A full first-aid pack, complete with Compeed*and blister treatment, a needle and cotton thread, antibiotic ointment, Band-Aids, antiseptic spray, antihistamines, Afterbite, an elastic bandage, and sunscreen. You’ll find plenty of pharmacies along the Way in case you run out of anything.
A liter of water. If you sweat a lot, you will occasionally need to supplement your water with a local version of Gatorade.
A change of socks. Sweaty socks can bring on blisters.
A change of shirt and rain gear if rain threatens.
Fresh or dried fruit, nuts, protein, etc. Depending on your route for the day, you’ll usually find small coffee bars and restaurants along the Way where you can purchase lunch.
Your passport, credit cards, and other essential documents. Also, carry a day’s worth of currency and never flash around large amounts of cash.
*Compeed is a miracle blister treatment available in Spanish farmacias.
I suggest stocking up on Compeed before you leave by buying it online. As soon as you feel a friction blister coming on, put the clear plastic Compeed over it and leave it on. You’ll never have another blister!
Limit Technology
On the Way, consider forgoing technology as much as possible. If you take a SmartPhone to check weather reports and make hotel bookings, particularly in the last 100 kilometers, purchase a cell phone package for Europe from your service provider or pick up a SIM card at a local provider such as Vodafone or Orange.
Use your phone to take pictures instead of carrying a heavy, expensive camera. Also, I suggest not wearing earbuds while you’re walking or you’ll miss the bird song and conversation.
One of my lasting memories on the Way is the sound of an amazing variety of bird songs.
Enjoy the Pilgrim’s Dinner
Have the pilgrim’s dinner when it’s offered at the albergues. You’ll get a cheap and tasty meal that includes soup or salad, a fish or pork entrée, dessert, and a glass of local wine. The local soups are delicious and filling.
Use Other Transportation as Needed
Consider occasionally taking a taxi or public transit when you get tired rather than risking injury. Walking the Camino in short stages will help conserve your energy.
Take Good Footwear
Wear hiking boots that are well broken in. Also, pack a pair of lighter shoes, such as Teva sandals, to occasionally give your feet a rest. Wear flip flops in the shower and around the albergue at the end of the day.
Some markers are decorated imaginatively.
Enjoy Meeting New People on the Camino
A highlight of walking the Way is meeting many wonderful and interesting people. People in the albergues and elsewhere along the Camino could not do enough for us. We always left our packs closed, and they were never disturbed, even when we left them in dormitories to go sightseeing.
Slow Down
My best advice for walking the Camino is to slow down and savor the experience. In other words, stop and smell the roses!
Check out as many churches, shrines, historical sites, and civic plazas as you can. You’ll be amazed at the unexpected beauty and fascinating art and architecture.
Sign on the Camino de Santiago
Northern Spain has been home to human beings for tens of thousands of years, from Neanderthal times to the present. You can hardly take a step without passing a fascinating site of historical significance.
For example, on some sections of the Way, you’ll be following, if not actually walking on, the original Roman roads. And in some of the smaller villages where the Spanish Civil War was fought in the 1930s, you’ll still see bullet holes in the walls of old barns and houses.
Suggested Itinerary
For a detailed breakdown of our itinerary that started in Pamplona, Spain and included stops in Burgos and León,along with a few train journeys, see the post A Camino Journey: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela.
I can’t imagine how our trip could have been any better. We enjoyed pretty much perfect weather, and we both kept well and healthy. In addition, we met interesting people, enjoyed delicious and reasonably-priced meals, and soaked up some of the rich history and culture of Navarra, La Rioja, and Galicia.
We also appreciated the spiritual nature of our journey to Santiago, taking time every day to reflect with humble gratitude upon our many blessings. Our trip was a pilgrimage in many senses of the word.
Is walking the Camino (walking the way) across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela on your travel wish list?
Artsy Travelers who Walk the Way will view countless treasures, including the portrait of Mary Magdalene by Leonardo da Vinci in Burgos, tiny medieval churches steeped in history, and soaring architectural wonders, such as the cathedral at León.
Elizabeth Petrie, my friend and an Artsy Traveler guest poster, walked the Camino with her friend, Cheri, and shares her experiences and insights.
Overview of Walking the Way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela Camino Route
Elizabeth and Cheri walked first from Pamplona to Burgos. After a few days sightseeing in Burgos, they took the train to León and then to Lugos.
From Lugos, they rejoined the Way at Sarria and walked the last 120 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela.
Elizabeth shares her experiences and recommendations in three posts on Artsy Traveler.
Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago
Elizabeth’s lively description of her journey is excerpted from the journal she kept while walking the Way between May 3 and June 1, 2017.
Part 1: Walking the Camino from Pamplona to Burgos
Welcome to Pamplona
The capital of Navarra, Pamplona charms us with its pretty streets, attractive green spaces, and many historical buildings. From our window at the NH Pamplona Hotel, we enjoy a southeast view of a nearby quarry that glows in the evening sun.
A short stroll along the main boulevard brings us to La Cittadella, an old, star-shaped fortress with huge, thick walls. The fortress is situated in a large park through which the Camino passes.
On the day we start our Camino journey, we’ll only need to walk a short distance from our hotel to pick up the trail.
What to See in Pamplona
The central Plaza del Castillo is an attractive public square surrounded by beautiful old buildings. Pamplona is full of monuments, typical in a country with thousands of years of history. All the statues and monuments are well signed and beautifully maintained.
Especially interesting is the large bronze statue depicting the famous “running of the bulls” (elencierro de toros). The portrayal of some unfortunates being trampled or gored by the bulls looks very realistic.
There’s not enough money in the world to convince me to do it, which is just as well since women typically don’t participate.
Running of the Bulls Monument in Pamplona, Spain
Walking Tour of Pamplona
Consider taking a free walking tour with Free Walking Tour Pamplona. You’ll explore the old town and visit the Gothic Cathedral of Santa Maria, the Plaza del Castillo, and the impressive fortifications that once protected the city. There’s a lot to see in Pamplona!
We’re On Our Way!
At the pilgrims’ albergue in front of the Gothic cathedral, we get our first stamp (estampilla) in our pilgrims’ passports (pasaportes de peregrinos).
We have officially begun walking the way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela!
Day 1: Walking the Way from Pamplona to Puente la Reina: 27 kilometers
After three nights in lovely Pamplona, we’re feeling well rested and ready to begin walking the way on our first stretch of the Camino.
Starting Out
As the sun rises in a clear blue sky, we walk through the beautiful grounds of the Universidad de Navarra and out into lovely rolling countryside. Wild poppies are scattered among fields of newly planted crops. We hear birds singing in the fields and hedgerows.
Setting off on the Way, west of Pamplona
We stop to get a stamp at a private albergue next to the 12th-century Iglesia de San Miguel. The fortified tower of the church was part of the Monasterio de los Hospitalarios de San Juan de Jerusalén.
The knights of the Hospitallers eventually became the Knights of St. John of Malta from which we get the St. John Ambulance service today.
Our First Steep Section
The Alto del Perdón—the first steep section we encounter on the trail—is described in our guidebook as “not as difficult as you will have heard” and is estimated to take “only a half-hour”.
Wrong on both counts!
The trail climbs pretty much straight up—the hardest ascent along the whole Camino. Whenever we start feeling weary, we chant “Alto del Perdón, Alto del Perdón! Nothing is as hard as Alto del Perdón” in rhythm with our steps.
Eventually, we make it to the top where the views are spectacular. Both nearby and in the distance we see one of the many wind farms that take advantage of the strong breezes coming from the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Biscay.
Modern metal cut-outs describe the various methods that pilgrims used over the centuries to travel the Camino. One of the inscriptions reads, “where the road of the winds crosses the road of the stars.”
Cut-outs and view at the summit of the Alto del Perdón
Albergue de Santiago Apóstel in Puente la Reina
At our first albergue, we’re assigned two upper bunks (no ladders!) in a four-bunk room. After a hot shower, we enjoy a pilgrim’s dinner of salad, fish, water, and yogurt, all for just €20, including accommodation.
We’re gratified to have virtually no injuries or aches other than a couple of small blisters. I decide to alternate boots with shoes to avoid putting too much pressure on any one spot on my feet.
Bridge leading into Puente la Reina
Day 2: Puente la Reina to Ayeguí: 20 kilometers
The next morning, the owner kindly calls ahead to book beds at the albergue in Ayeguí. He also confirms transportation of our packs for only €5 each. Normally, albergues do not take advance reservations. I wonder whether the fact that I speak Spanish helped!
The second day of walking the way is much easier than the first, even with a few strenuous uphill stretches. (Altos del Perdón, Altos del Perdón…). The countryside continues to amaze us with its many crops, flowers, and birdsong. Small lizards sun themselves on the stone walls that mark the route.
Lorca
We stop for coffee in Lorca, a medieval hill town with a wonderful view of the surrounding valley. The route out of Lorca drops very steeply down what is little more than a slippery, rocky gully. After a few more hours of walking, I feel a blister starting on my heel. We decide to take a taxi the rest of the way to Ayeguí.
I recommend making occasional use of taxis and public transport to save your feet. A small blister can become a large one very quickly and make walking agony.
Day 3: Ayeguí to Torres del Río: 27 kilometers
Our third day walking the way is a long one! We take a break in Irache, where a fountain with a dual spigot offers both water and wine. We fill our water bottles from one and take a sip from the other.
The sign on the fountain reads Pilgrim! If you wish to arrive in Santiago full of strength and vigour, just take a drop of this great wine and jump for joy. Another sign notes We invite you to enjoy in moderation; if you wish to take some wine along, you will have to buy it!
The Camino winds past numerous churches and historical buildings—too many to count and, unfortunately, too many to visit. Many are Romanesque in style, reminding us again of the extent of the Roman Empire at its height.
Sometimes, we walk at the side of the local highway and at other times on gravel paths dating from ancient times. The Way between Villamayor de Monjardín and Los Arcos typifies the Camino.
It’s a long, narrow road stretching into the distance between open fields, with very little shade and no place to fill our water bottles.
Los Arcos
Arriving in Los Arcos is a relief for our feet and our thirsty throats. It’s a beautiful old town that has been inhabited since Roman times. The Iglesia de Santa María has a mixture of architectural styles (Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque), and the series of arches along the walls of the original cloisters gives the town its name.
Los Arcos is a popular stopping point, but we decide to continue another six kilometers to Torres del Río. Hmm…perhaps not the best idea, as it turns out! The weather has warmed considerably, and there’s not a breath of wind. We sing, make lists of places we’d like to go someday, and generally distract ourselves from the trudge.
Some of the markers along the Way have been decorated by passing pilgrims
Finally, we arrive at the delightful little town of Sansol and take a taxi to Albergue La Pata de Oca at Torres del Río. What a treat! The main building is hundreds of years old, with thick stone walls and solid beams in the ceilings, all covered with plaster.
Our private room is upstairs under the rafters. The ceiling slopes so much that we have to stoop to open the window. The patio is lovely, with lots of flower pots filled with bright red geraniums.
We enjoy a delicious dinner of bean and chorizo soup, chicken, flan, and wine. After a long, hot day, we collapse into bed about 9:15.
Day 4: Torres del Río to Ventosa: 4 kilometers
We decide to take it easy after yesterday’s long walk and opt for a later start and a shorter walk with a taxi ride in between.
While relaxing over breakfast on the terrace, we meet Ian from Ireland. He tells us that he’s a former addict who has been clean for 26 years and has adopted his nephews (one of whom is on the autism spectrum) after the death of their parents.
Encounters with people like Ian and others from all over the world and with a variety of backgrounds is one of the most enjoyable aspects of our journey.
Before starting our walk, we visit the Romanesque Church of the Holy Sepulchre across the street from the albergue. Dating from the 12th century, the small, octagon-shaped church was founded by the Knights Templar during the time of the Crusades.
The dome’s ribbing forms the outline of an eight-sided star, typical of Moorish Spain. The 13th-century crucifix depicts Christ’s feet separately rather than crossed one over the other as is typical.
Day 5: Logroño to Ventosa: 21 kilometers
We stop for lunch in Navarrete, an attractive hill town with narrow cobblestoned streets leading to the town plaza. A small church–La Iglesia de la Asunción–doesn’t look particularly special from the outside. We almost don’t go in. Luckily, we did and found one of the most amazing Baroque retablos (altarpieces) in all of Spain.
Our albergue in the tiny village of Ventosa has a typical set-up, with ten bunks to the room, plenty of hot water and many modern conveniences. Again, our pilgrims’ meal is delicious and very reasonably priced. For €10, we dine on paella with chorizo along with salad and a beer.
Day 6: Ventosa to Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada: 5 kilometers
Cheri’s blister and ankle are acting up, so we take a taxi and then a local bus to Santo Domingo where we stop for the night.
A rooster motif is everywhere in Santo Domingo, reflecting the legend of how a young man had been wrongly accused and executed for theft.
One version recounts that his parents had seen a vision of St. Dominic holding their son up alive. When they rushed to the magistrate to report this miracle, the judge laughed and said that the boy was as dead as the rooster and chicken on his plate. At that, the birds came alive and fluttered about the room, thereby “proving” that the young man was innocent.
To this day, a pen inside the cathedral holds a rooster and a hen (different ones every two weeks). It’s a sign of good luck if you hear the rooster crow.
Day 7: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado: 21 kilometers
On a day of mixed sun and cloud, we pass through the town of Viloria de Rioja, the birthplace of St. Dominic and from there into the province of Castilla y León.
At the albergue in the evening, we enjoy our €10 pilgrims’ dinner of two courses and wine and chat with Marcelo from Argentina and David from San Sebastián. Our pleasant conversation covers everything from politics, to films, to the various people we’ve met on the Way, to our common love of travel and adventure.
Day 8: Belorado to Cardeñuelo Río Pico: 9 kilometers
We carry our big packs today and find that after more than a week of walking the way on the Camino, we’re getting stronger.
The Albergue Santa Fe in Cardiñuela where we stop for the night has just one double room left, complete with a private bath, towels, soap and shower gel, and a television. With the pilgrims’ dinner included, the cost is about €55 each—another example of the excellent travel bargains to be found on the Camino.
Day 9: Cardeñuela Río Pico to Burgos: 17 kilometers
A strong, cool breeze in the morning makes for good walking weather. As we approach Burgos, we pass through several prosperous-looking neighbourhoods which likely are bedroom communities of the city itself.
The Camino enters Burgos via a pretty walk along the river. When we finally reach the center of town, we take a taxi to the AC Hotel which is perfectly situated about two blocks from the central plaza and the cathedral.
We enjoy tapas at one of the outdoor cafés in the colonnaded central plaza.
Part Two: Walking the Way from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela
Days 10 to 14: For the next several days, Elizabeth and Cheri tour Burgos and then León. Read Elizabeth’s suggestions about what to see there in the post Exploring Burgos and León.
Day 15: Samos to Sarria: 21 kilometers
After several days exploring Burgos, León , and Lugos (see Exploring Burgos and León ), we take the train to Sarria, drop off our packs at the albergue La Casona de Sarria and then take a taxi to Samos to explore the Benedictine Monastery.
Wow! The Benedictine monastery at Samos is stunning, with some sections dating back to the 6th century.
Currently, only eight monks and two novices are in residence, with some of the original monks’ cells now serving as simple accommodations for people participating in organized religious retreats.
Benedictine monastery of San Julian de Samos located in Samos, Lugo, Galicia
The interior cloister at the monastery is the largest in Spain, and some of the walls display original frescoes.
Back on the Camino: Samos to Sarria
After a quick lunch, we resume walking after our days off for sightseeing in Burgos, León , and Lugo. We set off back to Sarria, a walk of about twelve kilometers and one of the most beautiful stages of our journey.
The route starts behind the monastery, winds past the kitchen gardens and along cool shaded paths alongside a small river, with some ascents and some descents but few signs of modern habitation. We pass a couple of 12th-century wayside chapels, small abandoned houses, wooden bridges, and old slate drystone walls.
You can almost imagine yourself a thousand miles from any center of population and thousands of years back in time.
One farmer is repairing his drystone slate wall and lets us fill our water bottles from his well. We stop a bit farther on for a cold drink in a typical taberna do Camino.
Day 16: Sarria to Portomarín: 24 kilometers
We start our day by crossing the old Roman bridge just down from the albergue. The stela marker informs us that we are 113 kilometers from Santiago.
At this point of our walk, we’re encountering many more people on the Camino, particularly Europeans taking a week to do the minimum journey (100 kilometers).
To receive the completion compostela in Santiago, pilgrims must present their passports bearing at least two stamps per day for the final 100 kilometers.
As we’ve come to expect, the countryside is absolutely beautiful, with rolling hills, manageable ascents, and plenty of lush vegetation providing shade in the increasingly hot weather.
This region is quite well watered by rain, and there are lots more dairy cattle and other livestock grazing in green pastures.
Countryside along the Way in Galicia
At one short rest stop, we listen to a piper in Galician dress—a reminder of the strong Celtic influence in this part of Spain. Much of the day’s route follows the old Roman road, with some of the original Roman stone walls still marking out different pastures.
A very old church marks the beginning of the final 100 kilometers to Santiago.
Day 17: Portomarín to Palas de Rei: 26 kilometers
Today’s route includes ups and downs through rolling and beautiful countryside. We’re starting to become blasé about the medieval churches. Ho hum, 14th century.
We find a fair bit of traffic along the Camino and several small tour groups.
Part of the Camino passes through thick stands of eucalyptus trees, originally imported from Australia. The scent of the leaves that have fallen to the ground and crushed by passing feet is delightful.
Day 18: Palas de Rei to Melide to Arzúa: 17 kilometers
Despite the heat, we enjoy a good night’s sleep followed by an excellent breakfast.
In a small chapel along the route, I’m fascinated by a poster of a stunning Madonna and Child (Mater Divinae Providentiae) painted by Scipione Pulzone da Gaeta in the mid-16th century.
I’ve never seen a Madonna which so tenderly expresses the love of mother for child. How different from the usual dreamy, remote images of Mary and the baby Jesus. This one is all about maternal love and one of the loveliest I’ve ever seen. I’ve never heard of this artist, and I plan to learn more about him.
The Camino from Melide to Arzúa is not a difficult stage, but it does have ascents and descents virtually the entire way. Fortunately, the many groves of fragrant conifers and eucalyptus trees along the path are very pleasant and make the steeper inclines much more manageable.
The official markers remind us that we’re getting closer to our final destination.
Later this afternoon, I suffer the only mishap of the entire trip when I stumble into a patch of nettles. Ouch! But Cheri quickly pulls out the antihistamine tablets and After Bite lotion, and, almost immediately, the rash subsides and the itch disappears.
Day 19: Arzúa to Pedrouzo: 22 kilometers
Our water and energy drinks at the ready, we set off early before the heat sets in and make pretty good time, even on the up and down stretches. The crowds are certainly growing.
At one stop, we purchase coffee, bananas, and small concha patches sold on the honor system/por donativo. Next to the building is a “wall of wisdom” (muro de la sabiduría) containing interesting quotes and reflections on travel.
I’m sure the quotes keep conversation going among the pilgrims as they near the end of a long journey.
An interesting feature of the places we pass are the corn cribs—large covered storage areas on stilts. The walls are perforated to allow air circulation but not rodents, and their height prevents livestock from investigating too closely and knocking them over.
Day 20: Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela: 22 kilometers
Our last day of walking the Camino!
We’re up and away before sunrise on what promises to be another warm day. The crowds have become thick, and we sometimes have to jostle for room to manoeuvre around groups.
Approaching Santiago de Compostela, the Camino skirts the northern end of the airport, which is clean and modern. We encounter a couple more steep spots, and then, suddenly, we’ve reached the official city limits of Santiago.
To enter the city proper, we cross a rickety plank footbridge into a semi-residential area and up into the original medieval town. We descend a flight of stairs, walk through a large portal set into very thick stone walls, and enter the central plaza of Santiago de Compostela.
The scaffold-covered cathedral looms into the rapidly clouding sky. We’ve made it!
We head to the new tourist center to get our official completion credential. There’s a long queue, and for a while we wait outside in the patio area.
Almost immediately after we enter the building, a big thunderstorm breaks, rain teeming down on the poor folks still out walking on the Camino or waiting outside to get their final stamp.
Arrival in Santiago de Compostela
We celebrate our achievement with an empanada and beer in the restaurant of the Santiago Parador—a former hospital founded by Ferdinand and Isabella in the 1490s.
We enjoy a deep, restful sleep, despite the thunderstorms. By mid-morning, the weather has cleared, and we return to the cathedral and tour the adjacent museum, timing it so that we can enter the cathedral itself from the cloister.
Visit to the Cathedral of Santiago
The entrance to the cathedral closes at 11:45 in preparation for the Pilgrims’ Mass, and by 11:15, it’s already filling up. We snag a spot on a small ledge at the base of one of the huge pillars near the back and have a reasonably good view.
The Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela
The service starts, and the nun leading the chants and responses has the most glorious voice. We recognize many of the service prayers, even though they are in Spanish: the collect, the Lord’s Prayer, the reading from the Old and New Testaments (Corinthians and John), the general confession, and so on.
The highlight of the service, and the reason that many people are there, is the swinging of the enormous censer across the transept.
At least five or six deacons or lay brothers manoeuvre it into place and set it swinging, and the sweep of its pendulum action gets higher and higher. Ropes and pulleys are affixed to the ceiling, and the angle of the swing is maybe 120° or more.
After the service, people line up behind the main altar to hug a plaster statue of St. James. Meanwhile, there are practically no people lined up to descend to the crypt to see St. James’ ossuary, an amazing chest of embossed silver.
If the bones of the saint are really contained within, it’s interesting to think that here was someone who actually knew Christ.
Back at the hotel after a bit of shopping, we calculate the distance we’ve walked. From our first day of walking on May 6 to our final day in Santiago de Compostela on May 26, we logged 338 kilometers!
Conclusion
Would I do the Camino again? Absolutely! Do I recommend it to anyone who is reasonably fit and looking for an adventure? Of course!
Something magical happens when you slow down to tread in the footsteps of the thousands of pilgrims who have walked the Way.
You hear birdsong, feel the sun warm your face, view stunning landscapes steeped in history, enjoy wonderful food, and meet people from all over the world.
I favor a combination approach to booking hotels in France. Generally, I book most of the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home, and then while traveling, I make adjustments as needed.
I like the security of knowing that I have a place to stay, but I also take advantage of cancellation options to ensure I can always change my mind.
To stay flexible, choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book, change, or cancel hotel reservations if your itinerary changes. Most sites offer a no-cancellation option at a lower price. I favor booking.com and Expedia for hotels and VRBO for long-term stays.
TIP: Stay flexible when you travel. You never know when you might meet someone who recommends a festival or event or exhibition. More than once, I’ve altered an itinerary to attend a special exhibition or visit a new attraction.
I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel. For example, I will select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from because I know those locations won’t change.
Breakfasts in French Hotels
Breakfasts in France are generally of the continental variety and include croissants (both regular and chocolate-filled), fresh baguettes with wonderful butter and lots of jams and marmalades, and coffee.
You may also find fresh fruit, dry cereal, cold meats, and cheeses. In large hotels, cooked options may be available.
In my experience, most breakfasts in small country hotels in France are continental breakfasts that are either included in the room price or are generally not too expensive.
If hotel breakfasts cost too much extra, I buy yogurt and fruit at a local grocery store and then go to a bar or café for my morning café au lait.
Recommended Locations
In France, I favor hotels on the outskirts of cities or in the countryside if I’m driving. I check the map showing the location of hotels and choose one that is outside town walls but within walking distance of the center of town.
I don’t recommend driving into Paris. We’ve done so several times, and it’s challenging, to say the least!
Traffic in Paris–not for the faint of heart!
Star Rating
I favor three- or four-star properties in France that offer amenities such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, pools, and WIFI.
I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters is too small for two people with luggage. I do my best to book rooms that are at least 20 square meters.
Reviews – Should You Care?
I recommend that you pay attention to reviews. If a property’s aggregate review is under 8.0 out of a possible 10, consider taking a pass. Sometimes, the difference between a property with a 9.6 review and one with an 8.2 review is only a few euros, and yet the quality of the higher-rated property makes the extra money worth spending.
You have to take reviews with a grain of salt, however. Just because a property has a score of 9.8 doesn’t meant it’s five-star luxury. A 9.8 score for a two-star hotel is not the same as a 9.8 for a four-star.
TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in France and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.
For each destination, I describe properties I’ve stayed in. Click the link to the hotel to make a reservation with booking.com.
Places to Stay in Paris
When you’re in Paris, you won’t want to stay outside the périphérique in what are pretty dull suburban areas. The périphérique is the multi-lane ring road that circles Paris. Mammoth traffic jams are not uncommon on the périphérique –I’ve experienced a few!
To avoid driving into Paris, I’ve occasionally stayed at a hotel near one of the portes on the périphérique. However, I don’t recommend doing so. The surrounding area can be quite dreary, and you’ll need to take a long Metro ride into the center.
If you’re driving, consider organizing your trip so that you either start or end in Paris. That way, you can be car-free in the city and stay at a place in an interesting and central area, such as the Marais or my favorites, the fifth, sixth, and fourteenth arrondisements on the Left Bank.
Recommended Neighborhoods in Paris
I visit Paris frequently and usually stay in apartments or hotels on the Left Bank. The Montparnasse area in the fourteenth arrondisement is far enough from the tourist crowds and the throat-tightening prices of Saint Germain but still within walking distance, or a short Metro ride, of the Seine.
Montparnasse these days isn’t the bohemian, majorly hip place it was between the World Wars when everyone who was anyone—from Hemingway to Picasso to the newly formed surrealist group— hung out there.
However, it still has plenty of good restaurants (La Coupole, Le Dôme) with appropriately snooty waiters (I adore watching Parisian waiters work!) and amazing seafood.
Here are my accommodation picks for Paris, all of which I’ve stayed in.
Hôtel de L’Université on the Left Bank near Saint-Germain-des-Prés is lovely with spacious rooms and an awesome location just blocks from the Seine and the hip part of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. I will definitely stay there again.
Hôtel A La Villa des Artistes is the first hotel I stayed in with my family. Located in Montparnasse on the same street as the Hôtel Le Chaplain and close to the Vavin Metro, the hotel is also a short walk to the Luxembourg Gardens where our daughter spent many happy hours in a smartly designed playground.
Hôtel Le Clos Médicis has a great location about a block from the Luxembourg Gardens near the Boulevard Saint Michel. The rooms are pricey and a bit small, but very well-appointed and comfortable.
Citadines Saint-Germain-des-Prés Paris is a surprisingly reasonable option considering the size of the room, which includes a small kitchen. The location is perfect–right on the Seine in the 6th arrondisement.
Medici fountain in the Luxembourg Garden near the Hôtel Le Clos Médici
I’ve stayed in a few more hotels that don’t warrant a recommendation. Paris has its share of overpriced and underwhelming places. Take your time finding a place and be aware that you may need to adjust your budget upwards to get a comfortable room in a good location.
As mentioned, I usually stay in apartments. Good options are available on VRBO and booking.com.
I recommend basing yourself in Honfleur and from there exploring the World War II beaches at Normandy, the charming town of Bayeux with its historic tapestry, and the soaring cliffs of Étretat.
Honfleur has several good choices, including the Hotel L’Ecrin where I stayed. The hotel includes free parking and is within easy walking distance of the Vieux Bassin.
We love traveling in Brittany! Over the years, we’ve visited a few times and have always found excellent, country-style accommodations.
Here are three hotels that I’m happy to recommend:
Trébeurden and Trégastel on the Côte de Granit Rose
Both Trébeurden and Trégastel are great choices if you want to spend time exploring the gorgeous Côte de granit rose (Pink Granite Coast). Both of these hotels are excellent options:
Trébeurden: Hôtel Le Toeno offers simple and comfortable accommodation with terraces that overlook the ocean.
Trégastel: Le Beauséjour also features sea views in addition to an excellent restaurant. Our room had a very fancy spa bath with more jet settings than I’ve ever seen.
View of the Côte de Granit Rose near Trégastel in Brittany
Pont Aven
Spend some time in lovely little Pont Aven where Gauguin was inspired to paint some of his most memorable works.
We stayed at Le Domain de Pont Aven Art Gallery Resort–quite a posh place that was worth the cost. Set in beautiful grounds and within walking distance of Pont Aven, the resort is a good choice for a splurge.
Places to Stay in Provence and the Côte d’Azur
Provence and the stunning Côte d’Azur are, hands down, my favorite areas of France. Well, why not? Provence has it all–fields of lavender and sunflowers under brittle blue skies, swims in the warm Mediterranean, excellent meals enjoyed al fresco, and that special light that has inspired artists for centuries.
Pretty much every time we’ve traveled to Europe in the past several years, we’ve squeezed in at least a few days in the south of France.
Here, I’ll describe some of the places we’ve stayed in Provence. Areas include van Gogh country around Les Baux-des-Provence on the western edge of Provence, the charming towns of Roussillon and Gordes in the Luberon area, the relatively undiscovered Var region, and finally, the fabled Côte d’Azur.
Les Baux-des-Provence in Van Gogh Country
By van Gogh country, I mean Arles and the surrounding areas where Vincent van Gogh painted during the few years he lived in the region. Because I always have a car in Provence, I book places in the countryside in this area rather than within the Arles city limits or in difficult-to-navigate Les Baux-des-Provence.
Les Baux-des-Provence is close to both recommended properties
But if you’re not driving, find a hotel in Arles so you can enjoy wandering this delightful city in the warm, Provençal evening.
Here are two places I highly recommend, both in the countryside near Les Baux-des-Provence:
Du Côté Des Olivades is outside the small town of Paradou, but it’s in the vicinity of Les Baux-des-Provence. This place is Provence with a capital P, with plenty of 4-star luxury and a gorgeous country setting. I walked from here to nearby Paradou to enjoy one of my favorite meals in Provence (which is saying something!).
On my most recent trip to the area, I stayed in Domaine du Mas Foucray in a rural setting near the small town of Maussane-les-Alpilles and within sight of Les-Baux-de-Provence. Billed as an aparthotel, the one-bedroom suites include a kitchen and sitting area and a private terrace. In early July when I was there, I picked fresh apricots off the trees.
I took this video on the grounds of the property. If you’re looking for a relaxing, Provençal experience without the hefty price tag of some of the properties in the area, then you can’t go wrong with the Domaine du Mas Foucray.
Domaine du Mas Foucray near Les Baux-de-Provence
Luberon Area (Vaucluse)
On one of my first family trips to Europe when my daughter was nine years old, I rented a house for two weeks in the hill town of Saignon, located near Apt in the Vaucluse region of the Luberon.
With lavender season in full swing and beautiful vistas everywhere I looked, not to mention warm summer days and lots to see, I fell in love with the area.
Saignon in the Luberon in Provence
Pick one of the gorgeous little towns and settle in for as many days as you can manage. We’ve home-based in Bonnieux, Roussillon, and Gordes. Other good options are Menerbes (where A Year in Provenceby Peter Mayle is set), Lacoste, and tiny Saignon with its ruined fortress and sweeping views.
One of our favorite family-run, country-style hotels is Les Sables d’Ocre in Roussillon. The place is also one of the two French properties I include in 10 Family-Run Hotels in Europe I Recommend.
Here are two highly recommended hotels in the Luberon, one in Roussillon and one in Gordes.
Les Sables d’Ocre – A 15-minute walk from the village of Roussillon, this place sets the bar for what a country-style, family-run, low-key, easy-on-the-budget place should be. Book one of the rooms that includes a terrace. You’ll have your own private outdoor space and be steps from the pool.
Domain de l’Enclos – This place close to Gordes–one of the most beautiful hill towns in the area–is wonderful. I snagged a room with a terrace which Gregg made use of to do some drawing. The views from the garden over the Luberon are spectacular.
Gregg drawing on the terrace at the Domaine de l’Enclos near Gordes, Provence
The Var
If you’re driving from Aix-en-Provence to the Côte d’Azur, you pass through the spectacular–and relatively undiscovered–region of the Var. We’ve stayed in the Var a few times while Gregg had exhibitions at the gorgeous little village of Seillans, a hill town not far from Fayence, one of the principal towns in the area.
Here are two recommended properties in the area around Seillans.
Hôtel Restaurant des Deux Rocs – Situated at the edge of Seillans and including a lovely restaurant with a terrace overlooking the view, this place is a great choice if you want to stay in the village of Seillans.
La Bastide de Negrin – This place is a good example of a typical small bed and breakfast in the area, with comfortable rooms and of course, a pool.
Each of the four rooms is named after a different artist: Matisse, Picasso, Renoir, and Cezanne.
Saint-Paul-de-Vence and Vence
This area of the Côte d’Azur is one of our favorites, particularly the town of Vence. You’ll find plenty of gorgeous properties in the area. Here are three that we’ve stayed in.
La Petite Maison: This two-story apartment has a spectacular view over Saint-Paul-de-Vence and the Mediterranean beyond. You are also within easy walking distance of the village.
Gregg surveying Saint Paul-de-Vence from the terrace of Le Petite Maison
Hôtel Marc Hély: I enjoyed a room with a view over Saint Paul-de-Vence and a tasty breakfast in the courtyard. This is a great choice in La Colle-sur-Loup, which is about a ten-minute drive from the Fondation Maeght.
Wine on the balcony at the Hôtel Marc-Hély
Miramar: This hotel is in Vence, which is just up the hill from Saint-Paul-de-Vence and a larger town with more services.
FYI, I had the best pizza in an outdoor café in the Old Town of Vence! The Miramar is a reasonably-priced and well-located property that is great for drivers.
Port Palace Hotel in Monte Carlo – On a recent trip to the Riviera, I arrived at the house I’d rented for three days high above Monte Carlo to find no one there.
A quick call to the agency we’d rented the place from confirmed that our reservation had never been confirmed, despite emails to the contrary. What to do? Fortunately, the agency responded to our predicament by booking us into the Port Palace Hotel right on the harbor in Monte Carlo.
The first night was comped, but I loved the place so much that I stayed for another two nights.
Although a bit on the pricey side, the massive room and the harbor view along with fabulous breakfasts and really friendly staff made our stay at the Port Palace once of our most memorable in France.
Hôtel de l’Esterel in Agay overlooking the Mediterranean and not far from Saint Raphael is located right smack in the middle of a Pierre-en-Vacances, otherwise known as a holiday village.
The room overlooked one of the largest hotel pools I’ve ever seen. The holiday village was hopping with French families and included several restaurants, a row of shops, and numerous activities.
Massive pools at the Holiday Village where the Hôtel de l’Esterel is located
Places to Stay in Dordogne and Languedoc
Like Provence, both Languedoc and the Dordogne have many gorgeous properties set in idyllic countryside. Here are two in the Dordogne and one in Albi in Languedoc that we’ve stayed in and recommend.
Château le Tour is a fabulous choice in the middle of the countryside east of Bergerac and near the tiny village of Faux.
I stayed for several days and enjoyed evening meals served outside to all the guests, swims in the infinity pool, and lots of lounging around the grounds. If you want a country experience in the Dordogne and you’re touring France by car, you can’t go wrong at this place.
Château de Tour in the Dordogne region of France
The Hôtel Archambeau in the tiny village of Thonac not far from Montignac is another great country-style choice. Take a walk around the village and out into the bucolic countryside.
We recently visited Albi in Languedoc for the first time and were very much taken with it. La Cabane Albigeoise is a self-contained, two-floor minihouse located in a large garden above the river and right across from the iconic Albi Cathedral. Here’s the view from the terrace.
View of Albi Cathedral from La Cabane Albigeoise
Conclusion
Do you have recommendations for great places to stay in France? Please share your experience with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments section below.
Once you’ve secured your accommodations, check out what there is to see in the places your visiting. Here are some posts to help you choose:
Discover the hidden gems of Lyon, France’s third-largest city and the center of gastronomy in France.
A few years ago, guest poster Liz Reding moved with her husband Michael to France and settled in the charming city of Lyon.
Liz shares tips for exploring and enjoying her adopted city.
By Liz Reding
When you travel, do you enjoy seeing and doing things that are a little off the beaten path? I know I do! Mind you, I think going to a grocery store in a foreign country is fun.
In this post, I’ll introduce you to my new hometown–the beautiful and vibrant city of Lyon.
Guest Poster Liz Reding
Map of Lyon
The map below shows the location of the sights covered in this post. Because Lyon is relatively small, you can walk everywhere. And when you tire of walking, the public transportation system will get you where you want to go in a flash. It’s cheap, easy to use, clean, modern, and fast!
This map was made with Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android
Lyon Overview
In Lyon, you won’t experience the manic hustle and tourist hordes of larger European cities, such as Paris, Berlin, and London. You will find friendly people, a truly French environment, and a lively cultural scene.
You’ll also find many opportunities for artsy travel in Lyon–from opera performances and fine arts museums to boulangeries and foodie experiences.
Lyon just before sunrise Photo: Liz Reding
With a population of 1.7 million, Lyon is a manageable city about the same size as Copenhagen, Munich, and Vienna. It’s one third the size of Barcelona and one quarter that of Madrid.
A UNESCO World Heritage City, Lyon has a rich and varied history and cultural heritage. It was the capital of the Gauls in Roman times, an integral part of the 17th-century silk trade, a pivotal center of French Resistance during World War II, and is now a leader in the development and production of pharmaceuticals.
I’ve divided my guide to discovering Lyon into three sections: Touring Lyon, Visiting Museums and Churches, and Exploring Lyon’s Food Culture.
Touring Lyon
Lyon City Card
Like most European cities, Lyon offers a tourist card that gives you access to most of its museums and all of its transit system. To purchase your Lyon City Card, visit the Lyon Visitor Center at one of its many locations (including Place Bellecour) or purchase it online at Tiqets.com. Durations from one to four days are available.
The Lyon City Card offers free access to the public transportation system and free/discounted admission to 23 museums. You can enter an included attraction once per purchased card.
When using your Lyon City Card, be mindful of what days you’ll be using it. Many museums are closed on Monday. It would be a shame to lose one whole museum use day if your card includes a Monday.
For more information and a complete list of attractions, check the Lyon City Card website.
View of Lyon from the Saône River
Lyon Sightseeing Cruise
The Lyon Sightseeing Cruise along the the Saône (rhymes with cone) River is a perfect afternoon/evening activity when you’ve walked your feet off and need some rest and relaxation. Enjoy watching the city of Lyon drift by while listening to the interesting narrative provided by the guide.
Every time I take one of these cruises, I learn something new. If you’re lucky and the weather is fine, you’ll be able to sit on the open top deck and take in some rays along with the sights.
The river cruise is free with the Lyon City Card or €13 per person without the card.
For more information and schedules, check out Sightseeing Cruises with Les Bateaux Lyonnais (#1 on the map above).
City Tram Tour
This motorized tour takes you to the Croix-Rousse area (#2) and shows you many fascinating features of this city-within-a-city in Lyon.
The open-sided tram trundles through the village-like streets of an area that was once the silk workers’ district and is now famous for its boho atmosphere, markets, and wall murals (more on the murals later!).
Unlike the rest of the city, Croix-Rousse is located on top of a hill. You can access Croix-Rousse by foot, Metro, or bus. However, taking the funicular is the most fun. If you haven’t ridden one, you really must!
The tram tour is free with the Lyon City Card or €9 per person without the card. Find out more and book your tour at the Lyon City Tram website.
Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon)
The old town of Lyon (#3) is quaint, charming, and full of mysteries and calories. Vieux Lyon is the one of the most extensive Renaissance neighborhoods in Europe, with three distinct sections: Saint Jean, Saint Paul and Saint Georges.
Stroll along charming, narrow cobblestone streets and through the traboules–covered passageways–that are a fascinating historical feature of this area. Have a look at the Gothic-style Saint Jean Cathedral.
Better yet, take a guided walking tour of Vieux Lyon. This two-hour tour in English includes lively narration about the history and culture of Lyon, the history of silk production, the French Resistance during World War II, and Lyon food culture.
Check the Free Tour Lyon website for tour times and more details. The tour starts at 10 am at Place Saint-Jean and runs on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Book ahead or just show up.
Visiting Churches and Museums
La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière
How can you not be awed by this building and the view of Lyon from the overlook? La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière (#4) is one of Lyon’s principal landmarks, visible from almost everywhere in the city.
The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière dominates the skyline of Lyon.
Built between 1872 and 1884 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière is a relatively modern structure. The annual Fête de Lumières (Festival of Lights), held in early December, is Lyon’s way of thanking the Virgin for saving the city from the bubonic plague that swept through Europe in 1643.
Highlights of your visit to Fourvière include:
Discovery Visit: Every day from April to November, take a free, 30-minute guided tour of the Basilica; it’s offered in several languages. Check the website for tour times.
Theme Visit: Every Saturday at 2:30 pm, choose one of ten free theme visits to learn about various aspects of the Basilica including its Byzantine and Art Nouveau-inspired mosaics, stained glass, and the altarpieces.
Rooftop Visit: Go behind the scenes of the basilica and take a walk on the roof. The guided Rooftop Tour is free with the Lyon City Card or €10 without the card. Pre-booking is recommended. Check the website for dates and times.
Garden Walk: The beautifully landscaped Rosary Gardens include 1,400 meters of pathways.
View over Lyon: Enjoy the stunning view over Lyon.
Interior of La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière in Lyon
To visit the Basilica, take the Fourvière funicular to Vieux Lyon Saint Jean station. Find information about opening times on the website.
Museum of Confluences
This giant of a building is worth seeing, even if you don’t go in: it’s that dynamic and eye-catching.
The Musée des Confluences (#5) includes a world-class collection of over two million objects from the fields of paleontology, mineralogy, entomology, ethnology, Egyptology, and technology and is divided into three areas: natural sciences, human sciences, and science and technology.
Musée des Confluences in Lyon is a must-see. Photo: Liz Reding
The museum is named both for its location at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône Rivers and for its explorations of the confluences between cultures, animals, and technology.
This monument to modern architecture is a must-see in Lyon. Its detailed and fascinating exhibits are creatively curated. Set aside several hours to explore the many galleries.
If you’d prefer to simply enjoy a magnificent view of the rivers and Lyon, you can access the observation deck free of charge.
My husband and I sometimes go into the building just to marvel at the structure. The museum looks completely different depending on your vantage point.
Take Tram T1 to Musée des Confluences. The museum is open Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday from 11 am to 7 pm, Thursday from 11 am to 10 pm, and Saturday, Sunday and public holidays from 10 am to 7 pm. For more information about special exhibitions, visit the museum’s website.
Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation
This sobering, reflective, and reverent collection is one example of how Lyon commemorates its role in the deportation of enemies of the state during World War II.
The Centre d’histoire de la résistance et de la déportation (#6) is my favorite museum in Lyon. I love its artifacts and how they are presented.
Nearly every time I visit this museum, I encounter a group of students learning about this important time in their city’s history. I’m always struck by the attention they pay and the respect they show while listening to the guide explain the exhibits.
Admission is free with the Lyon City Card or €6 per person without the card.
Display at the Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation Photo: Liz Reding
The Centre is open Wednesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm. Take Tram T2 to Centre Berthelot stop or Metro Line B to Station Jean Macé. Find more information about special exhibitions on the museum’s website.
Musée Gadagne: Lyon History Museum
Another favorite, the Musée Gadagne (#7) traces the history of the city from the Capital of the Gauls to the present. If you love urban planning and want to learn how Lyon got to where it is today, this museum is for you!
I was surprised to learn that Lyon had the same mayor (Edouard Herriot) for over 50 years–from 1905 to 1940 and from 1945 to 1957.
As you leave this exhibit, you’ll see a beautiful re-creation of a residential parlor during World War II and a film on the history of Lyon during the early 1900s.
Re-creation of a parlor during World War II Photo: Liz Reding
The Lyon History Museum is located at 1 place du petit Collège and is open Wednesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 6:30 pm. Admission is free with the Lyon City Card or €8 per person without the card. For more information about special exhibitions, check the museum’s website.
Lumière Museum
The Institut Lumière (#8) museum celebrates the achievements of the Lumière brothers (Auguste and Louis) and is located in the house in which their family lived.
Louis Lumière invented the Cinématograph in 1895 as well as various cameras and color and relief photographs. The first film was made in the garden of the house which, at the time, was the largest factory in Europe for the production of photographic plates.
The Institut Lumière produces the annual Festival Lumière every October. If you’re interested in film, you’ll be dazzled by the silent films in this exhibit. The technology on display has been lovingly preserved.
This Lumière Museum is free with the Lyon City Card or €7 per person without the card.
Sign for the Institut Lumière Photo Credit: Liz Reding
The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6:30 pm. For information about location and special exhibitions, check the website.
Tony Garnier Urban Museum
The Tony Garnier Urban Museum (#9) outdoor museum is in the 8th arrondissement (district) of Lyon known as États-Unis (United States). The buildings within the district were designed by the architect Tony Garnier, who worked with long-time friend and Lyon mayor, Edouard Herriot.
Garnier was responsible for much of the infrastructure in the City of Lyon. He designed the social housing development in the États-Unis. Somewhat of a rebel, Garnier wanted to explore new ways of thinking about how to solve modern housing problems.
Huge murals on the ends of housing blocks have turned the area into an open-air art gallery. Many of these paintings incorporate optical illusions that draw you into the action – you can hardly determine what’s real and what’s not. Check in at the museum office to get a map and an audio guide to take with you as you tour the murals.
Here are some of the murals you’ll see in the neighborhood. All photos by Liz Reding.
While most of this exhibit is outdoors, a highlight is the excellent indoor re-creation of a model apartment. You’ll find many tributes to Tony Garnier throughout Lyon.
The Tony Garnier Urban Museum is free with the Lyon City Card or €6 per person without the card.
The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 2 pm to 6 pm and closes for three weeks in August. Take Tram T4 to Musée Tony Garnier on 4, rue des Serpollières.
Exploring Lyon’s Food Culture
Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse
Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse (#10) is foodie heaven! And, even better, visiting Les Halle de Lyon is free.
Fortunately, as we all know, food consumed on vacation doesn’t have any calories!
What kind of food will you find here? Buy bread, cheese, meat, fish, poultry, fresh produce, oils and vinegars, wine, and, of course, chocolates and pastries that will clog your arteries and make you happy.
You’ll also find a dizzying array of restaurants tucked in and around the shops. Exploring this amazing place and sampling what’s being served in the restaurants is part of the fun!
Les Halle de Lyon – Paul Bocuse is located at 102 Cours Lafayette and open daily from 7 am to 10:30 pm. Access via Tram T1, stop Mairie du 3.
A stall at Les Halle de Lyon – Paul Bocuse Photo: Liz Reding
Croix-Rousse Marché
Open every day except Monday, the Marché alimentaire de la Croix-Rousse (#11) is like no other. It’s huge and carries regular and bio (organic) produce.
In addition to the Croix-Rousse Marche, you’ll find a market in every arrondissement in Lyon. Most markets start early in the morning and end around 1 pm.
One of the few markets that opens later in the day is located just above the Metro stop at Place Jean Jaures. This market is smaller than most but offers a wide selection of produce, cheese, and meat and is open Thursdays from 2 pm-7 pm.
What To Eat in Lyon
Hey, you’re in France! Eat lots of bread and pastry … and drink lots of wine! You’ll find boulangeries (bakeries) on nearly every street.
Do I have a favorite boulangerie? Well, some people say that the best boulangerie is the one that’s open and closest to you. I prefer the establishments with signs that say either boulanger or boulangerie, because the products are usually hand-made rather than frozen or pre-made and baked on-site.
A local boulangerie in Lyon Photo Credit: Liz Reding
You’ll have to do your own research to decide which boulangerie is the best.
Purchase wine in any grocery store, even on Sundays. You’ll be astounded by the number of wine choices and how much fun they can be to sample! Of course, you can always find pricey wines, but don’t overlook the cheap stuff.
Our price point is €4 to €8 per bottle, and we’re never disappointed. Also, practice makes perfect!
Although full of attractions and interesting things to do, Lyon remains relatively undiscovered by tourists. You won’t find the museums crowded, and you shouldn’t have trouble finding great restaurants in which to enjoy Lyon’s famous cuisine.
Lyon is considered the capital of gastronomy in France.
No wonder my husband and I moved here.
Tours & Tickets in Lyon
Here are some tours and ticket options to consider when visiting Lyon.
Lyon Walking Tours
GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Lyon!
Conclusion
Check out Liz Reding’s post about cooking classes in Paris and Lyon. And have you visited Lyon? Share your recommendations in the Comments below.
For more information about France, check out the France page and these posts:
Choosing the best small museums in Paris to feature in a post about my fave art museums is like choosing a favorite child. It’s almost impossible! But I’m going to give it whirl anyway to introduce you to some museums that you may not have visited.
You’ll notice I’ve left the three biggies off my list: the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay and the Centre Pompidou. All three are über must-sees, and you’ll find information about them in this post that matches Parisian sights with bistro dishes from my novel Love Among the Recipes.
But the operative word in this post is small, some may even say obscure! You will find some fairly well-known museums on my list, but you may also find several that you have not heard of, let alone visited.
I’ve organized the museums by arrondissement, starting with the Orangerie in the 1st arrondissement and ending with the Marmottan Museum in the 16th arrondissement. The map belows shows the location of each museum.
The Musée de l’Orangerie is not far from the Louvre and overlooks the Jardin des Tuileries. I always enjoy popping into the Orangerie to revisit one of the most compelling exhibitions in Paris.
Here, in two consecutive oval salons, you’ll view the eight large paintings that make up Les Nymphéas by Monet. Lit by natural light from the ceiling and oriented from west to east, the light follows the course of the sun.
Detail from a painting of waterlilies by Claude Monet
Monet helped to design these rooms in which his paintings are displayed. He wanted visitors to immerse themselves in the paintings and find solace in their beauty following the horrors of World War I. Monet certainly knew what he was about. Walking through the two salons of the Orangerie feels like being submersed in a cool, blue, calm oasis. As you can tell, I love this space!
Go to the Orangerie as early in the day as possible to avoid the crowds. Contemplating these incredible paintings is best done in quiet and solitude.
In the first salon, the four compositions depict the reflections of the sky and vegetation in the water from morning to evening. The colors vary from yellows and pinks to greens. I find the paintings the first salon both cheerful and soothing.
But my favorite is the second salon, where the dominant blues inspire a mood of intense calm. Relax on one of the benches and let the beauty of the pieces wash over you. You’ll almost feel as if you’re actually in nature, rather than simply looking at depictions of nature.
After viewing the water lily paintings, check out the rest of the Orangerie. The permanent collection includes works by most of the greats, including Renoir, Gauguin, Cézanne, and Sisley.
Special Exhibitions at the Orangerie
We’ve seen some beautifully curated special exhibitions at the Orangerie, most recently an exhibition of Spanish impressionists. Consult the website to see what’s on.
The Orangerie is located at the Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde. The closest Métro is Tuileries. Make sure to buy your ticket in advance so you can skip the line-up. The museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm daily except Tuesdays.
#2: Picasso Museum
Situated in the heart of Le Marais, the Musée National Picasso-Paris is home to over 5,000 works in a comprehensive collection that includes paintings, sculptures, and engravings.
Housed in the historic Hôtel Salé, a private mansion at 5 rue de Thorigny, the building has been described as “the grandest, most extraordinary, if not the most extravagant, of the grand Parisian houses of the 17th century”.
You’ll also see sketches, studies, drafts, notebooks, etchings, photographs, films, illustrated books, and other documents that demonstrate Picasso’s creative process.
If you’re a fan of modern art, and Picasso in particular, this beautiful museum will keep you well entertained and informed.
The Picasso Museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 10.30 am to 6 pm and weekends from 9.30 am to 6 pm. The museum is popular, so buy your ticket in advance.
#3: Cluny Museum
If I had to choose my favorite art museum in Paris, I would have to say the Musée de Cluny – Le monde médiéval, known colloquially as the Cluny. I enjoy it more than the three biggies for several reasons.
First, it’s manageable, unlike its larger cousins. You can tour the Cluny in an afternoon and still have energy to enjoy the lively 5th arrondissement. Spend an afternoon pacing the massive galleries at the Louvre and you’ll need an hour relaxing by a fountain in the Tuileries to recover.
Second, the Cluny features room after room of outlandishly awesome objets d’art from the Middle Ages–the historical period I most prefer.
Third, you’ll see the gorgeous Lady and the Unicorn tapestries woven from silk and wool in Paris around 1500. Admiring these six tapestries is worth the price of admission alone.
What to See at the Cluny
Take a seat in the special circular room that houses the tapestries and enjoy decoding how each of the first five tapestries depicts a different sense: taste, touch, smell, hearing, and sight. And what is the meaning of the sixth tapestry titled À mon seul désir? The jury’s still out, but some say the tapestry represents love.
The sixth tapestry: À mon seul désir Photo: Wikipedia
In addition to the tapestries, the Cluny offers amazing displays of wooden statues, stained glass, objects made from ivory, stone sculptures, and numerous household objects, furniture, paintings… the list goes on.
On one visit to the Cluny, I happened upon a concert of medieval choral music in the sculpture courtyard. Hearing that music while surrounded by the objects made during the same period was transporting. I love coming upon unexpected performances when I’m traveling in Europe. Keep your eyes peeled (as my Dad used to say). You’re bound to discover all sorts of opportunities to enjoy performances in some of your favorite museums and galleries.
Sculptures in the marvelous Cluny Museum
Check the website to find out if concerts are scheduled when you’re in Paris. In the meantime, you can explore the collections at the Cluny on the museum’s comprehensive website.
The Cluny is located at 28 Rue du Sommerard. The closest Métros are Cluny-La Sorbonne, Saint-Michel, and Odéon.
#4: Zadkine Museum
The Musée Zadkine has been called a “folly” in the middle of Paris. On rue d’Assas in the 6th arrondissement and close to the Luxembourg Gardens and hip Montparnasse, the Zadkine Museum was once the studio of Ossip Zadkine (1890-1967), a sculptor of Russian origin.
The small exterior door leads you into a calm, green space that feels miles away from the bustle of Paris. You’ll find sculptures in a variety of media, including wood, stone, clay, and even bronze, along with graphic works and illustrations, photographs, tapestries, and archival material.
Sculpture by Zadkine at the Zadkine Museum. Photo: Wikipedia
Shortly before he died, Zadkine wrote, “But it is in any case very beautiful to end your life with a chisel and mallet in your hands.”
The Musée Zadkine is located at 100 bis Rue d’Assass and is open from 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday. The closest Métros are Notre-Dame des Champs and Vavin.
#5: Quai Branly Museum
Not far from the Eiffel Tower but still in the 7th arrondissement and close to the river, the spectacular Musée du Quai Branly Jacques Chirac is a must-see. I never tire of visiting this museum because there is such an incredible number of things (370,000 apparently) to ponder and enjoy.
The Quai Branly houses a remarkable collection of art and objects from around the globe organized into four geographical areas—Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas.
I love this museum’s attention to detail. Interactive screens set up in alcoves around the museum provide in-depth information about specific exhibits. You could spend weeks here and only scratch the surface.
Exterior of the Quai Branly Museum in Paris
The range and complexity of the objects displayed is a testament to human creativity through the ages. Set aside half a day to explore this incroyable museum.
Special exhibitions are also featured. On one visit, we saw an exhibition of Picasso’s collection of art from around the world, including Africa.
The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 7:00 pm (Thursdays until 10:00 pm).
#6: Rodin Museum
The Musée Rodin in the 7th arrondissement is simply gorgeous. Housed in the magnificent Hôtel Biron and surrounded by three hectares of sculpture-studded gardens, the Musée Rodin celebrates the work of one of France’s premier sculptors.
Check out The Thinker perpetually contemplating life in the garden then go inside and marvel at the statue called The Kiss. Ooh la la! Wander through room after chandeliered room of sculptures—some marble, some plaster, some bronze. The sheer volume and range of work is overwhelming.
Rodin Museum in Paris
The Musée Rodin is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6:30 pm.
#7: Musée Maillol
In a quiet area of the 7th arrondissement, the Musée Maillol is well known by Parisian art lovers for its special exhibitions but is not as well known by visitors. We’ve seen excellent exhibitions at the Maillol, including an collection of paintings by van Gogh and a spectacular display of paintings by Artemisia Gentileschi.
The exhibitions we’ve seen have featured several walls’ worth of information about the paintings—all in French. If you don’t read French, ask if a handout with an English translation is available.
The Musée Maillol was established by Dina Vierny, an artists’ model who became a famous singer, art dealer, collector, museum director, and Aristide Maillol’s muse for the final ten years of his life. The top floors of the Musée Maillol feature many works by Maillol, including monumental sculptures of female nudes. Maillol’s work is amazing and beautifully displayed. You’ll also find works by several 20th-century artists.
The Musée Maillol is open daily from 10:30 am to 6:30 pm when exhibitions are on (Fridays until 8:30 pm).
#8: Gustave Moreau Museum
The Musée National Gustave Moreau in the 9th arrondissement at the foot of Montmartre is quite the revelation. If you’re familiar with the work of the symbolist painter Moreau, you’ll know that you’re in for a treat. The museum occupies the painter’s family home and includes hundreds of paintings and watercolors showcasing the work of a painter many consider the master of French Symbolism.
Some of the paintings are massive and contain so much intricate detail that your eyes get sore just looking at them!
Salome by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia
Jupiter and Semele by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia
The museum is open daily, except Tuesdays, from 10 am to 6 pm.
#9: Marmottan Museum
Located in the stylish 16th arrondissement, the Musée Marmottan Monet is one of the loveliest art museums in Paris. Highlights of the collection are the works by the impressionists Claude Monet and Berthe Morisot. In addition, you’ll see a collection from the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and the Second Empire, along with paintings by other impressionists, such as Caillebotte, Degas, Pissarro, Renoir, Sisley, and Rodin.
Berthe Morisot, who painted The Sisters shown above, is one of the artists frequently exhibited at The Marmottan
The Marmottan is a bit of a trek from the Metro (La Muette or Ranelagh) but worth the effort required to get there. It features a great museum shop (I’m a sucker for a good museum shop).
The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (last admission: 5.30 pm), with extended hours to 9 pm on Thursdays (last admission: 8.30 pm).
Conclusion
Have you been to any of these art museums in Paris? Do you have other suggestions for artsy travelers? Share your recommendations in the Comments section below.
A few years ago, Gregg Simpson (husband and artist) and I spent two months at an artist-in-residence place called Les Rouges en Vert in the tiny village of Soligny-la-Trappe in the Perche region of France.
When we weren’t painting (Gregg) and writing (me), we spent many hours exploring a region of France that’s both stunningly beautiful and that has played an outsized role in the history of western Europe.
Here are a few shots of our time at Les Rouges en Vert where Gregg had a painting studio and an exhibition and where I worked on my novel, The Towers of Tuscany.
Normandy is home to more than thirty World Heritage Sites, including Honfleur, Mont St. Michel, the cliffs of Étretat, Caen, and Bayeux, all of which are covered in this post.
Cliffs at Étretat
These iconic chalk cliffs captivated Monet, and they’ll likely captivate you. On a clear day, the white cliffs, needles, and arches shimmer in the famous Normandy light. No wonder Monet painted so many views.
Climb to the top of the cliffs from either end of the beautiful sandy beach to enjoy better views than you’ll get from the beach below.
The paths and steps are steep with few hand railings. Vertigo sufferers are advised to admire the cliffs from the beach.
Panoramic landscape of the famous cliffs of Étretat, Normandy, France
The resort town of Étretat (#1), with its half-timbered houses and outdoor cafés, is a wonderful place to enjoy lunch before or after climbing to the top of the cliffs. You’ll find resort-style shops and even a casino on the beach.
Honfleur
Visit Honfleur (#2) to see where many of the impressionist painters were inspired, including Monet, Renoir, Courbet, Pissarro, and native son Eugène Boudin who has a whole museum dedicated to his work.
Honfleur is fabulous! As an artist, Gregg was captivated by the same luminous light that attracted the impressionists. The town’s dedication to the arts continues, with many art galleries lining the streets of the old town.
The other big attraction, since we love music, is the quirky Satie Museum.
Satie Museum
Known as the Maisons Satie (#3), the Erik Satie Museum ranks high on our list of favorite music museums. The museum occupies the entire house in which Satie was born in 1866.
Satie was a composer from the early 20th century, a compatriot of Debussy, and active in the Dada movement.
When you enter the museum, you’re given an audio guide that takes you on a sonic and sensory journey unlike any I’ve experienced. Put on the headphones, then walk into any room to trigger a range of music, light, image, and sound effects.
The museum even includes a leg-powered merry-go-round to pedal to the accompaniment of Satie’s music.
Gregg rides the music- and leg-powered merry-go-round in the Satie Museum
MuséeEugèneBoudin
Close to the Satie Museum is the Musée Eugène Boudin (#4). This large museum is worth an hour or two of your time to admire paintings by not only Boudin but also many of his impressionist compatriots, including Claude Monet and Berthe Morisot (one of my favorites).
The museum also exhibits clothes and furniture, photographs from 1880 to 1920, a cool collection of more than 100 tourist posters from 1880 to 1950 advertising the delights of Normandy, and even antique toys.
Staying in Honfleur
Stay two nights so you’ll have lots of time to wander the old town and enjoy the Vieux Bassin (#5), where tall, skinny houses rise above a sea of fishing boats and masts.
Honfleur Harbour – Vieux Bassin in Normandy, France
Pull up a chair at one of the many outdoor cafés lining the Vieux Bassin, order moules–frites (mussels and fries), and watch the world go by.
Honfleur is a popular tourist spot with several good accommodation options for staying a night or two. We stayed at the very comfortable Hotel L’Ecrin.
Another option is to make Honfleur your home base for a longer stay in the area. The location is convenient for driving to Caen, the D-Day beaches and Bayeux to the west, and the cliffs at Étretat to the east.
World War II Beaches
Today, the windswept Normandy beaches invite long walks on golden sands, face upturned to a blue sky arched over white-capped waves. I hadn’t expected the area to be so beautiful, considering the devastation it witnessed just a handful of decades ago.
Caen Memorial Museum
Make your first stop the Caen Memorial Museum (#6) near Caen to learn about the D-Day invasion from the point of view of both the Allied and the German soldiers.
Reserve a few hours to browse the comprehensive exhibition of artifacts and films. You’ll leave with a deeper understanding of the Battle of Normandy.
Caen Memorial Museum in Normandy
Proceed to at least one of the beaches. We chose Juno Beach, where the Canadians landed on June 6, 1944. If you’re from the United States, you’ll want to see Omaha and Utah beaches farther west.
Visiting Juno Beach
At Juno Beach (#7), a thoughtfully curated museum provides a Canadian perspective on the war and on the invasion.
Most poignant was a film showing a continuous stream of names in alphabetical order of the men who landed on Juno. We knew one of the men and waited for his name to come up, but there were so many that we realized we’d have to wait a long time to see his.
It’s sobering to realize that each name belongs to a young man who, even if he’d survived, would be forever plagued by trauma.
The 54-mile
stretch of coastline from Utah Beach in the west to Sword Beach in the east is
awash in WWII museums, memorials, cemeteries, and battle remains from the
largest military operation in history. You could easily spend several days in
the area.
Direction sign of Omaha Beach in Normandy
Direction sign of Juno Beach in Normandy
Bayeux
I was thrilled to finally visit the museum housing the famous Bayeux (#8) Tapestry–La Tapisserie de Bayeux (#9). If you’re fascinated by the story of the invasion of England by the Normans in 1066, then you’ll enjoy this fine museum.
The 70-meter-long tapestry is displayed on a special round spool that you walk around to the accompaniment of an excellent audio guide. In the darkened room, only the tapestry is lit. Follow the progress of the invasion—the boats and horses and helmeted men wielding swords.
The story told by the tapestry begins in 1064, when Edward the Confessor, King of England, tells his brother-in-law, Harold Godwinson, to go to Normandy and offer his cousin, William, the succession to the English throne. The story ends with the Anglo-Saxons fleeing at the end of the Battle of Hastings in October 1066, although the last bit of the tapestry is missing.
Description of the Bayeux Tapestry Museum
The tapestry
contains 58 scenes, 626 characters, and 202 horses.
What intrigued me about the Bayeux Tapestry was that it was created by women. Some historians maintain that the women embroiderers of Kent did the stitching. How did these women feel about telling the story of their invaders? How did they make the designs?
Some of these questions are answered in the film and museum exhibits you’ll see after viewing the tapestry.
The museum is open daily, 9:00 am to 6:30 pm, from February 1st to December 31st. From May to August, the museum remains open until 7:00 pm.
After touring the museum, wander around Bayeux’s quaint streets and pop into the massive Bayeux Cathedral that dominates the skyline. The Bayeux Tapestry was commissioned by Bishop Odo, half-brother of William the Conqueror, to adorn the cathedral where, for centuries, the tapestry was displayed once each year.
Water mill and Aure River in the attractive town of Bayeux
Perche Region
This
pleasant area of rolling green hills, thousands of white cows, and
grey-steepled churches is not a tourist mecca. It is, however, a popular place
for wealthy Parisians to have second homes—and no wonder. The countryside is
achingly gorgeous.
Drive around the quiet country roads past lakes and forests and visit some of the charming towns, including Alençon (#10), Argentan (#11), the cathedral at Sées (#12), and L’Aigle (#13). Get out of the car and go walking, make friends with the cows, and visit the Perche Natural Regional Park.
Enjoying a walk in the Perche countryside
For Canadians, particularly those of French descent, a visit to the Museum of French Emigration to Canada in Tourouvre is worthwhile. Many of the people who populated Quebec in the 17th century came from the Perche region. The museum tells their story.
Here are pictures of the countryside surrounding the place where Gregg and I did a two-month artist-in-residence stint a few years ago.
Cathedral at Sées
Lots of white cows in Normandy
Enjoying a picnic in the countryside
Golden fields of rapeseed
Mont St. Michel
Floating off the Normandy coast on the border of Brittany, Mont St. Michel will make you smile.
Approaching Mont St. Michel in Normandy, France
Is it real? Did people from centuries ago actually brave the tortuous tides to build the massive, stone-walled abbey?
Indeed, they did, and since its founding in 966, Mont St. Michel (#14) has attracted pilgrims and now tourists. Its tiny cobbled streets are clogged with souvenir shops and crowds, but visit anyway. The views of the swirling waters from the ramparts of the abbey are breathtaking.
Park in the new car parks located about 1.5 miles from the island and walk to the Place des Navettes to catch a shuttle bus (passeur) across the causeway to the island.
You can also walk across the causeway to the island. Once there, you’ll climb the steep streets to the abbey. Buy tickets in advance to skip the line.
Inside, you’ll find peaceful cloisters, the soaring Gothic church, and one of the grand chambers, known as The Marvel because it clings spectacularly to the rock.
Traveling To and Around Normandy
Normandy is best explored with a car or on a tour from Paris. A good strategy is to pick up a rental car outside of Paris at Charles de Gaulle Airport and then head west into Normandy for at least a week.
On your way to the locations described in this post, stop off in Rouen to view the magnificent cathedral—one of Monet’s favored subjects.
Tours in Normandy
If you choose not to drive in Normandy, consider taking a tour. Here are options through Tiqets.com:
And here are some options for tours in Normandy with GetYourGuide:
Have you visited Normandy? Do you have artsy and historic sites to recommend? Please share your experiences with other artsy travelers in the Comments section below.
Here are some more posts to read next to help you plan and enjoy your time in France:
Amsterdam has plenty of sights and activities to keep you busy for two full days and three nights. If you’re pressed for time, you can see most of the high points in a two-night stay.
Following are my suggestions for two full days in Amsterdam. Stay in a hotel on one of the outer canals, such as the Herengracht, Prinsengracht, or Keizersgracht. From there, you’ll be able to walk almost everywhere.
Orientation to Amsterdam
The map below shows the places mentioned in this post. Click a number on the map for more information.
First thing in the morning, after fortifying yourself with a breakfast where good bread and Gouda cheese will likely play a role, head to the Museumplein.
Tour either the Van Gogh Museum (#1 on the map) or the Rijksmuseum (#2) as soon as it opens. Don’t try touring both museums on one day or you’ll risk art overload.
Buy your tickets online well ahead of your visit. I suggest visiting one major museum on one morning and the other on the next morning or later that afternoon.
Avoid going to either museum in the middle of the day when both are mobbed (particularly the Van Gogh Museum).
Here’s information about the Van Gogh Museum, with details about the Rijksmuseum provided under Day 2.
Van Gogh Museum
Armed with the ticket you pre-purchased, arrive at the Van Gogh Museum at your appointed time (preferably as early as possible).
The Van Gogh Museum lives up to the hype as one of Europe’s most visit-worthy art museums. You get a wonderful overview of van Gogh’s work from the early years to the very end.
In fact, the museum contains the world’s largest collection of van Gogh’s art, including such signature pieces as Sunflowers, The Potato Eaters, and a personal favorite, Wheatfield with Crows, one of his last paintings. Download the app provided by the museum. It’s a good one.
Check out my detailed overview of the Van Gogh Museum and my suggestions for touring.
In the afternoon (weather depending), take a canal cruise and visit Anne Frank House.
Anne Frank House
I first visited Anne Frank House (#3) when I was fourteen–the same age Anne Frank was when she was murdered.
Walk behind the bookcase that concealed the hiding place to view the unbelievably cramped spaces. It’s impossible to imagine how Anne and seven other people lived there for two years.
You must buy your ticket online for a specific time slot up to two months in advance to visit the Anne Frank House. Tickets sell out fast so check the website two months before you plan to be in Amsterdam. Don’t wait or you may be disappointed.
Canal Cruise
Take a canal cruise (#4) while you’re in Amsterdam. If the skies are clear, go later in the afternoon when the light turns golden. During the summer months, consider an evening cruise. You’ll get a different perspective on Amsterdam as you glide past gabled houses and under bridges crusted with lights.
Here are options for canal cruises in Amsterdam. Some include dinner.
Amsterdam at night–it’s magical; this vista is next to where we stayed on the Herengracht.
On your first evening, venture into the lively Centrum. Enjoy a beer at a canalside restaurant, then wander back to the quieter canals to avoid marauding bands of partying Brits.
The people of Amsterdam are working hard to take back their city from the invasion of large groups–often from England. Here’s an interesting article about over-tourism in Amsterdam.
If you steer clear of the streets around the station (the infamous Red Light District) and stick to the canals in the outer rings of the Centrum (the Keizersgracht, Herengracht, and Prinsengracht), you’ll find plenty of peaceful walks, lively and safe squares like the Rembrandtplein (#5), and attractive canal vistas.
Day 2 in Amsterdam
Depending on which of the two art biggies you visited on Day 1, visit the other on Day 2. Again, make sure you purchase your ticket ahead of time and choose a time either early in the day or later in the afternoon to avoid the crowds.
Rijksmuseum
If you enter the Rijksmuseum (#2) when it opens at 9 am, you’ll have it all to yourself. On a recent visit there in April, we barely saw another person for a good hour after entering around 9:15.
By the time we left around noon, the line-up extended out into the rainy Museumplein. Satiated by great art and in cheery spirits after our leisurely stroll through near-empty galleries, we pitied the sad-looking tourists huddled under dripping umbrellas. Don’t be one of those tourists!
Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam
The Rijksmuseum houses some of the greatest Dutch art in Europe. You’ll find numerous works by Rembrandt, Vermeer, and Frans Hals in more than thirty galleries that feature art from the Dutch Golden Age.
A special room is devoted to displaying Rembrandt’s TheNight Watch, a vast improvement from when I first saw the painting back in 1970. Then, the painting was so dark and ill-lit that my 14-year-old self left unimpressed.
Now, the painting holds pride of place in a special gallery that most of the time teems with camera-snapping tourists. Remember – go early and contemplate Rembrandt’s masterpiece in blessed solitude.
The Night Watch by Rembrandt: buy tickets in advance for the Rijksmuseum
Paintings from the Golden Age are just some of the attractions at the Rijksmuseum.
I was taken by the Medieval/Renaissance collection (1100 to 1600) displayed in beautifully lit and organized galleries. Since most visitors make a beeline for TheNight Watch, you’ll find the medieval galleries comfortably empty. Enjoy numerous paintings, sculptures, objets d’art, furniture, and even tapestries.
As the premier museum in the Netherlands, the Rijksmuseum has even more to offer, including special exhibitions. These usually require an additional ticket so check ahead.
For more about the Rijksmuseum, check my dedicated post detailing more fabulous things see during your visit.
Lunchtime Concert at the Concertgebouw
If you’re in Amsterdam on a Wednesday, drop in to the Concertgebouw (#5) across the street from the Museumplein for a free lunchtime concert. You’ll be one of the few tourists there enjoying classical music alongside locals.
We saw an amazing concert of two vibraphonists–one Dutch and one Italian. Arrive well ahead of time to make sure you get a seat. The concerts are popular and fill up fast.
Check the Concertgebouw website for details about the free lunchtime concerts.
H’ART Museum
When we’re in Amsterdam, we almost always pay a visit to the H’ART Museum (#6), which was formerly known as the Hermitage Museum. The H’ART Museum is an art museum where famous works of art and stories from around the world are brought together in one-of-a-kind exhibitions.
In our experience, this large museum overlooking the Amstel River has never been crowded and is a delight to walk around. At the back, enjoy lunch in the courtyard garden, a calm oasis in this bustling city.
Begijnhof
Another calm oasis is the charming Begijnhof (#7) courtyard surrounded by old-style Dutch homes that date to the 14th century, although most of the facades were replaced in the 17th and 18th centuries. The wooden house (Houten Huys) at Begijnhof 34 is the oldest house in Amsterdam.
Step into the Begijnhof chapel to view a series of panels that tell the story of the Miracle of Amsterdam.
Lovely Begijnhof courtyard of characteristic Amsterdam homes
Walk Along the Canals
Apart from viewing art, one of my favorite things to do in Amsterdam is to wander along the main canals. Cross bridges, browse the shops, and snap picture after picture of the fabulous narrow houses, many dating from the Dutch Golden Age in the 17th century.
Take your time getting to know the quieter parts of this lovely city. Walk over to Vondelpark (#8) and join other people at play.
If you’re feeling brave, rent a bike. But be warned – locals ride fast! When you’re walking, always check that you’re not in a bike lane or you risk hearing the clang of a bell attached to a sturdy bike ridden upright by an angry Dutch person.
For more to see and do in Amsterdam, check out these tours and suggestions.
Eating in Amsterdam
On at least one evening, enjoy a Rijsttafel meal. This Indonesian import consists of up to forty small dishes, including egg rolls, sambals, satay, fish, fruit, vegetables, pickles, nuts, and more, accompanied by rice. The variations of taste, texture, and heat make rijsttafel (in Dutch, “rice table”) an eating adventure.
Be careful! Some of the food is super spicy!
Staying in Amsterdam
In my experience, Amsterdam is one of Europe’s most expensive cities. Plan on spending at least €300-€400 per night for a decent hotel in a central area of Amsterdam. We’ve found that splurging for a good hotel in an attractive area is well worth it.
Occasionally, we’ve stayed farther out in cheaper hotels in nondescript neighborhoods and have regretted the decision.
The Mokum Suites on Herengracht is a wonderful choice as is the apartment called Here’s Lucy that is right in the heart of Amsterdam. You can walk everywhere.
The map below shows options for hotels in Amsterdam.
Berlin is an artsy sightseer’s candy store. If you love museums, you’ll love Berlin. It’s worth at least three full days of your sightseeing time. If you have more time, you’ll find lots more to do and see. It’s a big city with a whole lotta history.
We spent a week in Berlin when my husband Gregg Simpson had an exhibition there and didn’t come close to seeing everything we wanted to. Check out Gregg’s paintings at Gregg Simpson Art.
In this post I feature the highlights I recommend in Berlin. To help you plan your time, I’ve grouped the sites in geographical order, moving from western Berlin through the historic core and Museum Island in eastern Berlin to the Kreuzberg neighborhood in south Berlin (where we stayed) and the fantastic Jewish museum.
Orientation to Berlin
The map below includes the places mentioned in this post. Click a number to find out more information.
Make use of Berlin’s efficient subway system. The city is spread out, and distances between the places you’ll want to see require a lot of walking. Save your legs for touring the museums! For information about transit in Berlin, see the Official Website of Berlin.
Western Berlin
The two major sites we enjoyed in the former West Berlin are the relaxing Tiergarten and the Kulturforum near Potsdamer Platz.
Tiergarten
Chill out in the fabulous Tiergarten (#1), Berlin’s massive central park that stretches from the Brandenburg Gate to the Berlin Zoological Garden. We spent the better part of a day there strolling the pathways and enjoying brunch overlooking a lake. From the Tiergarten, you can’t miss the Victory Column, built in 1864. Climb it to enjoy a panoramic view over Berlin.
Potsdamer Platz and
Kulturforum
Check out the modern skyscrapers and shopping malls in Potsdamer Platz (#2), then walk over to the Kulturforum where you’ll find a complex that includes the Gemäldegalerie and the Philharmonie Berlin.
In the complex, you’ll also find the Musical Instruments Museum (Musikinstrumenten Museum) and the Museum of Decorative Arts (Kunstgewerbemuseum (#3)), touted as Berlin’s version of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Head here if you’re a fan of the applied arts. The collection of women’s fashions over the centuries is especially good.
Gemäldegalerie
An impressive number of European masters grace the walls of this wonderful art museum. The sleek, modern building houses works by Rembrandt, Dürer, Brueghel, Rubens, and Vermeer along with Italian masterpieces by Giotto, Botticelli, and Caravaggio. On the Gemäldegalerie (#4) website, take a virtual tour of several of the main galleries.
Allocate a morning to enjoying the collection at the Gemäldegalerie.
Philharmonie Berlin
The magnificent home of the Berlin Philharmonic (Berlin Philharmoniker)(#5) will take your breath away. With its unusual tent-like shape and bright yellow color, the concert hall has been a landmark in Berlin since 1963, well before the fall of the Berlin Wall.
The Berliner Philharmonie concert hall in Berlin, Germany
We scored tickets to Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring performed by the Deutsches Symphonie Orchester Berlin. The orchestra’s concerts are less expensive than concerts featuring the Berlin Philharmonic, and the quality was fantastic. Hearing Stravinsky played in the iconic hall was a special experience.
Check event
listings for the dates you’ll be in Berlin and consider getting tickets to a
concert at the Philharmonie Berlin.
If you’re not able to see a performance, try to find time for a guided tour of the Philharmonie Berlin. One-hour tours are offered daily at 1:30 pm except during July and August and several days at Christmas. The tours are conducted in German and English.
Historic Core of Berlin
When you
arrive in Berlin, make your first stop the area around the iconic Brandenburg
Gate at the entrance to the Tiergarten. An 18th-century neoclassical
monument built by Frederick William II, the gate once stood forlornly in
no-man’s land between East and West Berlin.
Reichstag
The big-ticket site in Berlin is the Reichstag (#6)(Bundestag), Germany’s historic parliament buildings. Also located in no-man’s land between East and West Berlin throughout the Cold War, the Reichstag was rebuilt in 1999. With its glass dome dominating the skyline, the Bundestag has become a symbol of a unified Germany.
Entrance is free but you’ll need to make a reservation at www.bundestag.de. Be sure to get tickets well in advance or you may be out of luck. You’ll need to show your passport to pass through security.
Brandenburg Gate
Walk through the Brandenburg Gate (#7)—something you couldn’t do until the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. The weight of history hangs heavy over the gate. Stand in front of it and realize that armies from Napoleon to Hitler have marched through its massive archway.
Now it’s a
selfie stop.
Memorial to the Murdered
Jews of Europe
Walk into this labyrinth of 2,711 pillars of different sizes. The sobering—and gigantic—memorial (#8) to the six million Jews executed by the Nazis is a center of calm in the middle of bustling Berlin. In the Information Center, a continuously running soundtrack recites the names of known victims.
Regrettably,
the memorial attracts more than its share of selfie sticks with people posing
against the pillars and even climbing and jumping on them.
Go directly into the memorial to get away from the photography mayhem at the peripheries and to experience the dislocation and fear that inevitably arises when you try to find your way out again.
Unter Den Linden
The Unter Den Linden (#9) is the Champs-Élysées of Berlin. Stroll down it from the Brandenburg Gate and stop to sample a currywurst at one of the many kiosks in the center strip. A currywurst is Berlin street food consisting of a fried pork sausage (Bratwurst) cut into bite-sized chunks and seasoned with curry ketchup. Eat it with French fries. Fortunately, you’ll walk off the calories pretty quickly.
Traditional German currywurst, served with chips
I’ve tried currywurst once, and I’m good now. It’s an acquired taste, but when in Berlin…
Ampelmänn Stores in Berlin
At the corner of Unter den Linden and Friedrichstrasse—another main drag—you’ll find the flagship Ampelmänn shop (#10).
This place ranks high on my list of favorite souvenir stores. The entire store is devoted to selling products inspired by the iconic Ampelmännchen pedestrian crossing symbols.
You’ll always know when you’re in a neighborhood that was once part of East Berlin because you’ll see Ampelmänn on the illuminated pedestrian signals. The green striding one tells you to Go, and the red standing one tells you to Stop. Both Ampelmännchen wear jaunty, flat-topped hats.
I don’t know why, but I fell in love with Ampelmänn and even bought a plastic one for my keychain. Berlin has several Ampelmänn shops. Search for Ampelmänn on Google maps and you might find one near your hotel. At the very least, treat yourself to a tea towel!
Museum Island
Keep walking down the Unter den Linden and you’ll eventually arrive at Museum Island, home to five world-class museums.
You could spend days, weeks even, exploring the museums here. Each historic museum building was built under a different Prussian king, with the whole site declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
I recommend
visiting Museum Island over two days. You can’t see all five museums in a day
without completely wearing yourself out, so don’t even try!
Neues Museum
Of the five, my favorite is the Neues Museum (#11), where you’ll find the bust of Nefertiti along with several floors of treasures from the prehistoric, Egyptian, and classical antiquities eras. The displays on Floor 3 are awesome. Here you’ll find the artifacts from the Stone Age, Bronze Age, and other cultures of the pre-Roman Iron Age.
All the displays are well described in English. You could spend days in this one museum alone.
Pergamon Museum
The Pergamon Museum (#12) draws the crowds because of its jaw-dropping buildings from ancient Babylonia, Assyria, and the Islamic world. Unfortunately, you won’t see the enormous Pergamon Altar until 2025, but exhibits such as the Ishtar Gate (46 feet tall and 100 feet wide), the grandest of Babylon’s gates built during the time of Nebuchadnezzar, are worth the price of admission.
Alte Nationalgalerie
The Old National Gallery (#13) is the place to see German art, including the work of David Caspar Friedrich which pretty much sums up Romanticism. Check out his craggy mountains, bare-limbed trees, and swirling clouds that celebrate nature in the raw.
The gallery
also includes works by French and German Impressionists.
Bode & Alte Museums
These two museums will appeal to connoisseurs of Byzantine art, historic coins, ecclesiastical art (Bode), and other classical antiquities from Etruscan, Greek, and Roman times.
If your time is limited, go to the Neues Museum and the Pergamon Museum on separate days, with one day split with the German History Museum (#14).
The museums on Museum Island are pricey. Consider purchasing the 3-day Museum Pass Berlin for €29 to gain entrance to just about every museum you’ll want to see in Berlin. See below.
Other Museums in the Historic Core
Deutsches Historisches Museum
Not far from Museum Island is this massive museum which presents 2,000+ years of German history. Over 7,000 exhibits take you from the early Middle Ages to the present day.
It’s another exhausting experience so pace yourself!
DDR Museum
I enjoyed this museum which shows what life was like in communist East Germany—the DDR (#15)(Deutsche Demokratische Republik).
Many kitschy items are on display, including the reconstruction of a typical home from the period, complete with drawers and cupboards that you’re encouraged to open and rifle through.
Buy your tickets for this popular museum in advance to avoid long lines.
Spree River Cruise
On the river not far from the DDR Museum and behind Berlin Cathedral, hop onto a Spree River Cruise. For a relaxing hour, you’ll listen to an English audio guide and enjoy a riverside view of amazingly nifty modern architecture in the former West Berlin.
You can get off at the Tiergarten, like we did, for some quality nature time – or stay on the boat until it turns around and returns to the dock.
Two museums we enjoyed in this area of Berlin, near where we stayed in Kreuzberg in south Berlin, are the Asisi Panorama of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum.
Checkpoint Charlie
You can’t miss Checkpoint Charlie (#16), with its costumed guards and legions of tourists snapping pictures. In the souvenir shops on both sides of the street, you’ll find Soviet army hats and other kitschy memorabilia of the Cold War. The area is kind of a DDR Disneyland.
Between 1961 and 1989, Checkpoint Charlie, located in the middle of Friedrichstrasse, was one of the few places where people could legally pass between East Berlin and West Berlin. The giant back-to-back photographs of two young soldiers dominate the area.
Facing east, the photograph shows a young Soviet soldier (see below). Facing west, the photograph shows a young American soldier. The disconnect represented by the photograph remains a salutary warning that the Cold War wasn’t that long ago.
Photo of a young Soviet soldier faces east at Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin.
Asisi Panorama–Die Mauer (The Wall)
While in Berlin, I became fascinated by its recent Cold War past. You’ll find museums and memorials commemorating the Cold War throughout Berlin, including the DDR Museum mentioned earlier.
I enjoyed the Asisi Panorama: Die Mauer (The Wall), located across the street from Checkpoint Charlie. The Panorama is a multi-storey immersive experience created by artist Yadegar Asisi in which you step back in time to 1980s Berlin and peer over the Wall from West Berlin into East Berlin.
Climb a set of stairs in front of a massive curved screen. You are five meters back and four meters up on the western side of the Berlin Wall, watching a day unfold over the course of 24 hours.
Sophisticated lighting effects cycle through changes from day to night every half hour or so in the shadow of the guard towers. You experience the contrast between the lively streets and graffiti-daubed wall on the West Berlin side and the drabness and aura of danger of East Berlin.
I was riveted–and fascinated that the scenes depicted on-screen in East Berlin happened a relatively short time ago.
The Berlin Wall existed for almost thirty years of my lifetime, and yet now when you walk around Berlin, you often have no idea when you’re in the former East Berlin. Your only clues are the pedestrian crossing signals (Ampelmänn!) and the stark utilitarian facades of some of the government buildings. Thirty years of unification have blurred the divisions, and pretty much everyone under the age of 35 has little or no memory of the Cold-War past.
Housed in a spectacular modern building, the Jewish Museum Berlin (#17) is a must-see. The museum chronicles Jewish history and culture in Germany from the Middle Ages to the present day.
The building itself adds to the compelling visitor experience, with its bold zigzag design and occasional empty spaces (called voids) that stretch the full height of the building and symbolize the cultural loss caused by the Holocaust.
In one space, metal discs representing upturned faces make weirdly disturbing sounds as you walk across them. The effect underscores the dehumanization of the Holocaust.
A room in the Jewish Museum
Exterior of the Jewish Museum
Stumble Stones (Stolpersteine)
As you walk around Berlin, particularly in the old Jewish quarter north of Museum Island, you’ll come across slightly raised stones set into the sidewalk and polished by the thousands of feet that have walked over them.
Called stumbling stones (#18), each 10-square-centimeter polished brass square is inscribed with the name of an individual or family that once lived in the building you’re passing.
The inscription on each stone begins “Here lived”, followed by the victim’s name, date of birth, and fate: internment, suicide, exile or, most often, deportation and murder.
Dr. Martin Happ and Sophie Happ were deported from their home in 1943 and murdered (ermordet) in Auschwitz.
Over 70,000 stumble stones are laid in sidewalks in more than 1,200 cities and towns across Europe and Russia.
I wanted to stop and read each one as we walked along the streets, but there were so many, it was heart wrenching. The stumble stones have been controversial, but I found them to be moving tributes to people who were going about their daily lives until ensnared by the horrors of fascism.
According to the Guardian, despite their international scope, the Stolpersteine are a grassroots initiative. Local groups – often residents of a street, or schoolchildren working on a project – unite to research the biographies of local victims and to raise the €120 it costs to install each stone.
Museum Pass & Other Tour Options
I recommend purchasing the three-day Museum Pass Berlin. At €29, the pass gets you into 30+ museums in Berlin, including the five Museum Island museums, the German History Museum, the Jewish History Museum, the Gemäldegalerie, and other museums in the Kulturforum area.
Considering admission to each museum on Museum Island costs €10, a Museum Pass makes sense.
The €18 Museum Island Pass saves you money if you tour two or more of the Museum Island museums on one day.
GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Berlin!
More Berlin
Even after spending a week in Berlin, I hadn’t seen everything I wanted to. Depending on your interests, you’ll find many more museums, lively nightlife, and interesting neighborhoods to wander through.
Although we stayed in the Kreuzberg area in south Berlin, I recommend the trendier and more interesting Prenzlauer Berg in north Berlin. We enjoyed dining out in this area that features older buildings, lots of cool restaurants, and a youthful, neighborhood vibe.
Enjoying lunch at a sidewalk café in hip and happenin’ Prenzlauer Berg
You’ll find accommodations in Germany to be clean and reasonably priced, but not always comfortable.
Get used to single duvets on double beds! For reasons I don’t understand, each person gets their own duvet, and double beds are often two single beds pushed together.
In this post, I provide general tips about accommodations in Germany and then list hotels I recommend.
Choosing a Room
To Book or Not to Book?
I book almost all the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home so I know I have somewhere to stay in every location. Then, while traveling, I sometimes alter bookings to follow a new route or in response to hearing about a cool location I hadn’t known about.
TIP: Stay flexible when you travel. You never know when you might meet someone who recommends a festival or event or exhibition. More than once, I’ve altered an itinerary to attend a special exhibition or visit a new attraction.
Choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book, change, or cancel hotel reservations if your itinerary changes. I mostly use booking.com and trip.com.
Both sites offer a no-cancellation option at a lower price. I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel.
For example, I’ll select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from, because those locations won’t change.
But overall, stay flexible. I’ve learned that sticking to a rigid itinerary with no-cancellation accommodations can end up costing you a lot more money than you save.
Breakfasts in Germany
In addition to the usual fruits, cereals, and eggs, hotel breakfasts in Germany always include meat, cheese, and a great selection of breads and pastries.
The abundance and quality of some of the buffet breakfasts I’ve seen in Germany defies belief and stomach capacity. Usually, I opt for the hotel breakfast only if it’s included in the room rate.
Breakfast with bread, buns, croissants, coffee, and juice
Star Rating
I favor three- or four-star properties that offer amenities I value, such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, and in-room WIFI.
I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters will be very small, with a child-sized shower stall and barely enough room to wedge your suitcase against the wall.
Reviews – Should You Care?
Yes, I think you should pay attention to reviews. If a property’s aggregate review score is under 8.0 out of a possible 10, I usually pass.
Sometimes, the difference between a property with a 9.6 review and one with an 8.2 review is only a few euros, and yet the quality of the higher-rated property is worth the extra money.
You have to take reviews with a grain of salt, however. Just because a property has a score of 9.8 doesn’t meant it’s five-star luxury. Check the star rating and realize that a 9.8 score for a two-star hotel is not the same as a 9.8 for a four-star, and proceed accordingly.
TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in Germany and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.
To help you plan your travels in Germany, here are my recommendations. I describe properties I’ve stayed in along with a map of some destinations to help you choose additional properties.
Click the link to the hotel to make a reservation.
Berlin
During a week in Berlin, I rented an apartment in the Kreuzberg area. While relatively central and close to a U-Bahn stop, I didn’t find the area as interesting as the Prenzlauer Berg in northern Berlin.
I suggest looking for a small hotel in Prenzlauer Berg or in the Mitte (the historic core). Apartments can be a good choice if you’re staying for several days.
The map below shows accommodation options in Berlin.
I stayed close to the river in the area of Cologne that was rebuilt in the old style. I wholeheartedly recommend the Hotel Drei Kronen, a comfortable three-star property. From our room, we enjoyed a panoramic view over the Rhine.
Area near the Hotel Drei Kronen in Cologne
Have a look at the map below for additional accommodation suggestions in Cologne. I recommend staying by the river.
In St. Goar, I recommend the Hotel Rheinfels, which overlooks the river. The room was large and comfortable, the breakfast excellent, and the proprietor very friendly.
Trier
In Trier, we stayed at the Hotel Estricher Hofon the outskirts of the city and overlooking the Mosel River. I was driving, and didn’t want to navigate the narrow streets of the city.
As it turned out, I drove into Trier for the evening with no problems, so consider a hotel in Trier proper so you can walk to the various sights.
We stayed one night in Nuremberg at the TIPTOP Hotel Burgschmiet Garni , located outside the city walls. The room was tiny and the parking tight, but the breakfast was incredible!
If you’re not driving, consider something more quaint and interesting inside the city walls. Nuremberg is a pretty town with lovely views over the river and its fair share of half-timbered houses.
In Leipzig, I loved stayed at the Radisson Blu Hotel Leipzig, located across the road from the Gewandhaus concert hall where we attended a Chopin piano concert (sublime!). The hotel was close to the center of Leipzig and easy to drive to.
Our room was enormous, with great views over the city. Usually, we don’t choose chain hotels, but the Radisson was comfortable and stylish.
In Munich, I scored an excellent deal at the Hilton Munich Park. Sometimes, you can find surprisingly reasonable rates at Hilton properties. I’m not sure why.
I enjoyed a large room that overlooked the English Garden. The hotel is a 14-minute tram ride from the Marienplatz and includes an indoor pool and possibly the largest breakfast buffet I’ve ever seen in Europe.
Here are some options for tours in Germany through GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com, both companies I’ve booked with several times, and had good experiences.
Do you have accommodation recommendations to share? Please let me know in the Comments section. I’m always on the lookout for new places to stay in Germany.
