Exterior of the Fondation Vaserely in Aix-en-Provence--a very modern building in black and white with large circles on the walls.

Seven Super Single-Artist Museums in Europe You Should Visit

One of the great joys of traveling in Europe as an Artsy Traveler is discovering amazing single-artist museums.

By single-artist museum, I mean a museum established to showcase the art of a specific artist, even if the museum also hosts exhibitions by other artists.

Europe is awash with great single-artist museums, many of which I’ve written about in other posts on Artsy Traveler, most notably Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris.

In this post, I recommend lesser known single-artist museums in Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, and Spain.

A Pinterest graphic with the text "7 Super Single Artists Museums in Europe You Should Visit" over a background that shows a detail from a painting of a dove by Magritte in the top half and the exterior of the Fondation Vaserely in Aix-en-Provence in the bottom half.

Map of Europe Showing Museum Locations

The number assigned to each museum in this post corresponds to the number on the map below. For example #1, the Ernst Fuchs Museum is in Vienna (#1 on the map below).

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

#1 Ernst Fuchs Museum in Vienna, Austria

Start in Austria with one of Europe’s weirdest single-artist museums!

If you’re in the mood for quirky and wonderful, then make your way to the Ernst Fuchs Museum in the Wien Hütteldorf, the 14th district of Vienna. You can drive there from central Vienna in about 25 minutes or hop on a bus.

Ernst Fuchs Museum near Vienna, Austria. Photo from the Ernst Fuchs Museum Website.
Exterior of the stunning Ernst Fuch Museum near Vienna.
Photo Credit: Ernst Fuchs Museum Website

Who is Ernst Fuchs?

Ernst Fuchs (1930-2015) was an extraordinarily prolific artist who created works infused with eroticism and myth. In the sixties, Fuchs became a style icon and designed architecture, furniture, tapestries, and jewelry. He was a founder of the Vienna School of Fantastic Realism and was celebrated internationally.

History of the Ernst Fuchs Museum

Fuchs’s work is displayed in the fabulously restored Wagner House, designed and built in 1888 as a summer house by the renowned Jugendstil architect Otto Wagner. The place is, quite simply, spectacular. Inspired by Palladio, Wagner designed the house in the style of a Roman villa.

Back in the day, the design attracted international attention. The press wrote: “A strange allure is evoked by this peculiar villa . . .Completely deviating from the usual appearance of similar buildings, the frontal view of the house that sits on the flank of a hill only shows a large open hall between two side wings.”

Fuchs bought the villa in 1972 when it was derelict and scheduled for demolition. In two years, he restored the house to its original architectural glory and for many years used the house as his private studio. In 1988, the centenary of the building of the original villa, the Ernst Fuchs Museum opened.

Work of Ernst Fuchs

Fuchs’s work combines the fantastic with elements of the visionary and spiritual, all infused with a healthy dollop of sixties psychedelic and a lot of naked bodies.

You’ll find eroticism everywhere. Even if you’re not a big fan of the work, you will appreciate its complexity and awesome technique. You come away with a new appreciation for the heights made possible by the human imagination.

Although I wasn’t hugely taken by the overly florid and fantastical artworks, I loved the unique architecture, whimsical design elements, gorgeous mosaics, and above all, stunning stained-glass windows.

Images of Ernst Fuchs Museum

I highly recommend a visit to this unique museum that also includes beautifully landscaped gardens. Here are photographs of some of the rooms in the Ernst Fuchs Museum. Source: Ernst Fuchs official website.

Adolf Boehm Salon in the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Adolf Boehm Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Grand Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Grand Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Roman Bath at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Roman Bath at the Ernst Fuchs Museum

Explore Ernst Fuchs Museum in 3D

This fantastic website allows you to walk through the museum and use your mouse to zoom in on every painting and design element. It’s one of the best virtual tours I’ve come across.

Visitor Information

The Ernst Fuchs Museum is located at Hüttelbergstraße 26, 1140 Wien and is from from Tuesday through Sunday from 10 am to 4 pm. Tickets cost €11 for adults and €6 for students and seniors or €8 with the Wiencard. For more information, see the Ernst Fuchs Museum website.

Where to Stay in Vienna

If your budget allows (and Vienna is not an inexpensive city), stay as close to the center as you can afford. Here are some hotels in the center of Vienna with +9 ratings on booking.com that offer good value:

#2: Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France

Located in the charming town of Albi in southwest France, the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is a total treat. If you’re in the area, put it on your list and leave yourself lots of time to tour the extensive collections.

Who is Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec?

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) was a leading French artist famous for capturing the personalities of his subjects in loose, free-flowing lines. Born into a wealthy family in Albi, Toulouse-Lautrec’s interest in art flourished following accidents to his legs in his childhood that incapacitated him and resulted in permanent damage.

In the mid-1880s in Paris, Toulouse-Lautrec began his lifelong association with the bohemian life of the cafés, cabarets, entertainers, and artists in Montmartre.

Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec

The Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is housed in the Bishop’s Palace (Palais de la Berbie) next door to Albi Cathedral (also worth a visit). The original palace was built in the 13th-century as a fortress to house the bishops of Albi. The original medieval architecture has been maintained with high, thick walls, and a central courtyard.

Palais de la Berbie in Albi, France (Albi Cathedral to the left)
Palais de la Berbie in Albi, France (Albi Cathedral to the left)

From the Renaissance to the 18th century, the fortress was transformed into a pleasure palace that included sumptuous state rooms and landscaped formal gardens which you can still visit today.

Overlooking the gardens at the Palais de la Berbie that houses the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France
Overlooking the gardens at the Palais de la Berbie that houses the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France

When we visited the museum soon after it opened in the morning, we practically had the place to ourselves.

And it’s huge! Room after room feature the world’s largest public collection of Lautrec’s paintings, lithographs, drawings, and posters. The collection is laid out in chronological order, starting with Toulouse-Lautrec’s early work and leading to the massive posters for which he is most famous.

In addition to exhibiting Toulouse-Lautrec’s work, the museum includes a large collection of art from the early 20th century. You’ll also view a fine collection of art from earlier periods, displayed in the sumptuously restored palace rooms.

A visit to the museum includes access to the palace’s classical gardens and panoramic views over the Tarn River.

View over the Tarne River in Albi, France
View over the Tarn River in Albi, France

Work of Toulouse-Lautrec

I was fascinated with the looseness of Toulouse-Lautrec’s work. He uses freely handled lines and colors to convey the idea of movement and to infuse his subjects with personality. You can imagine meeting the same people on the streets of Paris today.

Here are two of the works you’ll see in the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec. Both pictures are taken from the website of the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec.

Painting called L'anglaise du star au havre" by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
L’anglaise du star au havre” (1899) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Painting called "Femme qui tire son bras" by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Femme qui tire son bras” (1894) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec

You’ll likely recognize several of the posters that were used to advertise the Moulin Rouge and other popular entertainment venues in late-19th-century Paris.

Moulin Rouge: La Goulue (1981) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Moulin Rouge: La Goulue (1981) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Ambassadeurs – Aristide Bruant (1892) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Ambassadeurs – Aristide Bruant (1892) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia

Visitor Information

Tickets for adults cost €10 and €5 for students. The address for the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is Palais de la Berbie, Place Sainte-Cécile. Find the cathedral and you’ll find the adjacent palace. Hours vary depending on the time of year, but for most of the year, the museum is open from 10 am to noon and 2 pm to 6 pm. From June 21 to September 30, the museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm.

Both the cathedral and the palace are built from bricks that glow pink in the setting sun.

Albi Cathedral in the setting sun
Albi Cathedral in the setting sun

Where to Stay in Albi

I chose a delightful place called La Cabane Albigeoise that was across the river from Albi but within easy walking distance. The place consists of just one stand-alone cabin on gorgeous grounds overlooking the river.

#3: Musée National Fernand Léger in Biot, France

If you’re staying in the Côte d’Azur, put a visit to this museum on your list of must-sees. As the only museum in the world dedicated to the work of Fernand Léger, this purpose-built museum is truly delightful. You’ll see a fabulous collection of Léger’s paintings, sculptures, drawings, ceramics, and tapestries.

Musée National Fernand Léger
Musée National Fernand Léger Photo Credit: Hans G. Oberlack, Creative Commons

Who is Fernand Léger?

Fernand Léger (1881-1955) was a French painter, sculptor, and filmmaker known for his bright and colorful work–a personal form of cubism known as “tubism”. He often depicted industrial subjects and objects of the consumer age–an art ‘first’–and is considered the forerunner of the pop art movement.

Léger was born in Argentan in Normandy. I recently read that his childhood home is being turned into a museum. That will definitely be on our itinerary the next time we travel in northern France. Check out the article.

Photograph of artist Fernand Léger
Source: Wikipedia
Fernand Léger
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Musée National Fernand Léger

In 1955, not long before his death, Léger purchased a villa on the property upon which the museum now stands. Supervised by his widow, construction of the museum began in 1957 with the museum opening to great fanfare in 1960.

The museum exhibits Léger’s work in chronological order, beginning with his realist early work and progressing to his “tubism” period prior to World War I with its emphasis on cylindrical forms and then to his “mechanical period” that was heavily influenced by his war experiences. The collection includes over 450 pieces.

In addition to the collection inside the museum, you’ll want to linger awhile on the grounds to enjoy Léger’s massive sculptures and especially to view the huge murals that cover the outside of the museum.

Sculpture on the grounds of the Musée National Fernand Léger
Source: Abxhay - Creative Commons
Sculpture on the grounds of the Musée National Fernand Léger
Source: Abxhay – Creative Commons

If you’re traveling with children, the Léger Museum is an excellent stop.

We first visited the museum when Julia was nine years old. She loved it! I think her appreciation for modern art stems partially from that visit. Mind you, growing up surrounded by her dad’s work also likely played a role!

Work of Fernand Léger

Léger’s work is bright, bold, and beautiful. It’s impossible, I think, to tour this museum and not enjoy yourself. The more you study his work, the more you appreciate it.

Here are two works by Léger. Regrettably, I did not take pictures when I visited the museum, so these photos are from the WikiArt website.

"Contrast of Forms" by Fernand Léger (1918)
Source: WikiArt
“Contrast of Forms” (1918) by Fernand Léger
Source: WikiArt

"The Man with the Cane" (1920) Source: WikiArt
“The Man with the Cane” (1920) by Fernand Léger
Source: WikiArt

Visitor Information

Visit the museum every day except Tuesdays, December 25, January 1, and May 1. From November to April, the museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm, and May to October from 10 am to 6 pm. Tickets cost €7.50. Admission is free on the first Sunday of the month. The museum is located at Chemin du Val de Pome, very close to Biot, a small village in the hills above the Côte d’Azur. If you’re traveling by car, you will find it easily. While you’re in the area, don’t miss several other wonderful museums showcasing the work of other 20th-century modern artists.

Two other single-artist museums—the Marc Chagall National Museum in Nice and the Musée National Pablo Picasso in Vallauris— are, like the Léger Museum, part of the network of French National museums in the Alpes-Maritimes department dedicated to 20th-century artists.

Where to Stay in Biot

Biot is a small town in the midst of many towns that make up the French Riviera. You can homebase in a nearby town such as Cannes, Nice, or Antibes and if you have a car, easily tootle around the various museums that make this area of France a true Artsy Traveler haven.

La Bastide de Biot is a good choice for a boutique hotel in Biot.

#4: Fondation Vasarely in Aix-en-Provence, France

On the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence (one of my favorite towns in the south of France), you’ll find the impressive and undervisited Fondation Vasarely. The museum showcases the massive artworks of Victor Vasarely, a Hungarian-French artist (1906-1997) considered the grandfather and leader of the op art movement.

Fernand Léger
Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France

Who is Victor Vasarely?

Victor Vasarely (1906-1997) was a French-Hungarian artist who used colorful geometric shapes to create compelling 3D optical illusions.

After settling in Paris in 1930, Vasarely experimented with Surrealism and Abstract Expressionism in the 1940s, then developed his hallmark checkerboard paintings.

Victor Vasarely
Source: Wikipedia
Victor Vasarely
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Fondation Vasarely

The Fondation Vasarely was opened in 1976 by French president Georges Pompidou.

Each of the seven hexagonal galleries contains six monumental works of art. On our most recent trip there in 2018, some of the artworks were in need of restoration, which is a shame.

Help support the continuation of this stunning museum by paying it a visit when you’re in the area.

Visiting here is like walking through posters from the swinging sixties, which is hardly surprising since the 3D optical illusions that characterize Vasarely’s work have graced the dorm rooms of students for decades.

Work of Victor Vasarely

Here are some of the massive pieces you’ll see at the Fondation Vasarely.

Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - blues and greens
Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - reds and multi-colors
Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - blues and greens

Visitor Information

Located at 1, Avenue Marcel Pagnol on the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence, the distinctive museum is easy to find. Admission is €9 for adults. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm.

Where to Stay in Aix-en-Provence

You can choose stay stay in Aix-en-Provence itself and enjoy strolling the famous Cours Mirabeau, or choose a place a little ways out of town in the charming Provencal countryside. The Bastide de Damien fits the bill for a country choice.

#5: Max Ernst Museum near Cologne, Germany

The stylish Max Ernst Museum is located in Brühl, about a twenty-minute drive from Cologne on the way to Bonn. For Gregg, a visit there on a recent trip to the area was akin to a pilgrimage. Gregg has been a fan of surrealist Max Ernst for decades—pretty much since he first became an artist himself.

Gregg Simpson outside the Max Ernst Museum in Brühl near Cologne, Germany
Gregg outside the Max Ernst Museum in Brühl near Cologne, Germany

Who is Max Ernst?

Max Ernst (1891-1976) was born in Germany and became a naturalised American in 1948 and a French citizen in 1958. He was a painter, sculptor, graphic artist, collagist, and poet, a pioneer of the Dada movement, and a member of the surrealist group.

Towards the end of his life, Max Ernst, along with his wife, noted painter Dorothea Tanning, moved to the charming village of Seillans in the Var region of Provence. We spent two weeks in Seillans in July 2019 where Gregg had an exhibition in a space close to where Ernst and Tanning lived.

Max Ernst
Photo: Wikipedia
Max Ernst
Photo: Wikipedia

History of the Max Ernst Museum

The museum features a marvelous collection of Ernst’s work displayed in a thoughtfully renovated space. A modern glass pavilion is integrated into the horseshoe floor plan of the late-classicist Brühler Pavillon, a popular ballroom and social venue that was erected in 1844 and that Max Ernst himself visited in his youth.

Stylishly renovated Max Ernst Museum in Brühl, Germany
Stylishly renovated Max Ernst Museum in Brühl, Germany
Photo: Max Ernst Museum Website

You’ll find an extensive collection of paintings, drawings, frottages, collages, and sculptures spanning over 70 years of Ernst’s influential career, including his time in Brühl and Bonn, his Dadaist activities in the Rhineland, his contributions to the Surrealist movement in France, his exile in the United States during WWII, and finally his return to Europe in 1953.

I especially loved the sculptures on the grounds of the museum.

Work of Max Ernst

Max Ernst was a fabulously prolific artist with work that is detailed and complex and wholly distinctive. Here’s a selection of some of my favorite works by Max Ernst. Pictures are all from the max-ernst.com website.

"Attirement of the Bride" (1940) by Max Ernst
Attirement of the Bride” (1940) by Max Ernst
"Ubu Imperator" (1923) by Max Ernst
Ubu Imperator” (1923) by Max Ernst
"The Triumph of Surrealism" (1973) by Max Ernst
The Triumph of Surrealism” (1973) by Max Ernst

Visitor Information

The museum is located at Comesstraße 42 / Max-Ernst-Allee 1, 50321 Brühl and is open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. At present (May, 2020), admission to the museum is free. For current information, check the museum website.

Where to Stay in Cologne

I recommend the Hotel Drei Kronen which is very close the Rhine right in the center of Cologne within walking distance of pretty much everything you’d want to see, including the marvelous cathedral.

#6: René Magritte Museum in Brussels, Belgium

The full name of the museum is the René Magritte Museum – Museum of Abstract Art, a double museum dedicated to Surrealism and Abstraction. Now that’s a double bill I can get behind.

On a recent short visit to Brussels, we made a beeline for the Magritte Museum and were not disappointed. As one of the most iconic figures in the surrealist movement, René Magritte deserves his own museum, and this one is first rate.

Who is René Magritte?

René Magritte (1898-1967) was a Belgian artist and probably one of the best-known surrealists after Salvador Dali. Back in the 1970s, I had a poster of his iconic painting of a massive dove called “The Large Family” on the wall of my student dorm–and I was not the only one.

"The Large Family" by Rene Magritte
Photo Credit: www.renemagritte.org
“The Large Family” by Rene Magritte
Photo Credit: www.renemagritte.org

In the 1920s, Magritte moved to Paris from Belgium and became involved with André Breton and the Surrealist group, of which he was a leading member. He exhibited in 1929 with several of the leading surrealists of the time, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Arp, de Chirico, Max Ernst, Joan Miró, Picabia, Picasso, and Yves Tanguy.

In 1930, Magritte returned to Brussels and continued painting there until his death. His imagery has heavily influenced pop, minimalist, and conceptual art.

René Magritte Photo: www.renemagritte.org

René Magritte Photo: www.renemagritte.org

History of the René Magritte Museum

The museum is relatively new, opened in 1999 shortly after Magritte’s one hundredth birthday. It’s built inside a house that Magritte lived in with his wife and includes an adjoining building that was renovated to showcase 250 masterpieces of Belgian abstract art.

You’ll tour the reconstruction of Magritte’s apartment on the ground floor and then view artworks from a collection that includes over 400 archive documents, photos, and objects, as well as 30 original works. You won’t see some of his most famous works, but you will get a good overview of Magritte’s development.

We loved it!

Work of René Magritte

Magritte’s work is endlessly fascinating–both for its meticulous technique and for its subject matter. Bowler hats, floating rocks, figures that are half animal/half people, and strange juxtapositions of everyday logic. When you tour the museum, you never know what you’re going to see around the next dimly lit corner.

Take your time and enjoy! Here are some of Magritte’s the works from the collection. Photos are all from the Magritte Museum pages on the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium website (Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique)

L'empire des lumières by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
L’empire des lumières by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
Le Domaine d'Arnheim (1962) by  René Magritte - Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
Le Domaine d’Arnheim (1962) by  René Magritte – Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
La magie noire (1945) by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
La magie noire (1945) by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
Golconde (1953) by René Magritte - Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
Golconde (1953) by René Magritte – Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography

Visitor Information

Located at Place Royale, Koningsplein 1 in Brussels, admission to the museum is €10 for adults, €8 for seniors, and €3 for students. Opening hours are Monday to Friday from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm and weekends from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm. Check the website for up-to-date information.

Where to Stay in Brussels

If you’re driving, I recommend the stylish Thon Hotel Bristol Stephanie on the Avenue Louise, just steps from Louise Metro. I stayed there one rainy night in October and wished I could have stayed much longer!

#7: Museo Sorolla in Madrid by Guest Poster Liz Reding

This description of the Sorolla Museum is written by guest poster Liz Reding. She and her husband visited in March, 2020, days before the museum closed in response to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Liz Reding: My husband and I have been admirers of the paintings of Joaquín Sorolla for many years, so on our recent trip to Madrid, a visit to the Museo Sorolla was top of our list.

Who is Joaquín Sorolla?

Born in Valencia, Spain, Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida (1863-1923) received his art education in Madrid, Rome, and Paris and was a contemporary of Picasso, Matisse, John Singer Sargent, and Andreas Zorn. He and his wife, Clotilde, had three children.

He painted portraits, landscapes, and monumental works depicting social and historical themes.

Joaquín Sorolla
Photo: Wikipedia
Joaquín Sorolla
Photo: Wikipedia

History of the Museo Sorolla

The Museo Sorolla is located in the home that Sorolla shared with his family, and is considered one of the best-preserved artist houses in Europe. The collection of more than 1,200 pieces is displayed along with the house’s original furniture and objects.

The house is surrounded by a delightful garden, a real oasis from the rumble of the cars and buses just outside the gate. 

Garden at the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding
Garden at the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding

By urban standards, this museum is relatively small, but packed with dozens of gorgeous paintings, as well as sculptures, sketches, photographs, water colors, and writings.

One noteworthy feature of this museum is that all the works are expertly hung and well lit. Most of the viewing rooms have deep colors that enhance the paintings with light-diffusing devices, such as a window shade or ceiling tapestry. What a pleasure!

Interior of the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding
Interior of the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding

Work of Joaquín Sorolla

Sorolla’s wife and children are featured in a significant number of Sorolla’s paintings, and his love and admiration for them clearly shows. In addition, Sorolla painted many portraits of important people, including U. S. President Taft, and is known for his masterful handling of light, as evidenced by his many beach-scene paintings.

Here are two of Sorolla’s works exhibited at the Museo Sorolla.

Painting by Joaquín Sorolla at the Museo Sorolla, Madrid
Photo credit: Liz Reding
Painting by Joaquín Sorolla at the Museo Sorolla, Madrid
Photo credit: Liz Reding

Visitor Information

Located at Paseo General Martínez Campos, 37, the Museo Sorolla is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9:30 am to 8:00 pm and on Sundays and holidays from 10:00 am to 3:00 pm. Tickets cost €3.

Where to Stay in Madrid

I highly recommend the Apartosuites Jardines de Sabatini, particularly if you are driving because it’s just on the edge of the traffic limited zone but still within walking distance of just about everywhere you’ll want to go in Madrid.

Other Single-Artist Museums in Europe

I wish I could say that I’ve visited all the single-artist museums that I’d like to in Europe, but not yet!

Here are just some of the museums I look forward to visiting in the next few years. If you’ve been to any of them, add a comment to let other Artsy Travelers know what you think!

Fondation Jean Dubuffet

Located in Périgny-sur-Yerres in the department of Val-de-Marne, the Dubuffet Foundation includes paintings and massive outdoor sculptures by Jean Dubuffet. Many years ago, we went there only to find it closed, but we did manage to peek through the fence! It looked amazing!

Zentrum Paul Klee in Bern, Switzerland

I’m a big fan of the work of Paul Klee and have his museum on my list for the next time we drive through Switzerland. Check the website for details.

Franz Marc Museum in Kochel, Germany

A modern extension has extended the exhibition space of this beautifully-situated museum, It overlooks a lake near the little town of Kochel in Bavaria, about an hour west of Munich. Franz Marc’s colorful work makes me smile. Check the website for details.

Conclusion

Have you visited any of the museums listed in this post? If so, let Artsy Traveler readers know what you think.

To keep reading about art in Europe, check out these posts:

Best of Iceland on An 8-Day Ring Road Tour

If you’re planning to visit Iceland, take time to circle this most amazing country on a ring road tour.

How about visiting in February? Yes, please! You have a good chance of seeing the northern lights, the days are getting long enough to allow for a good eight to ten hours of daylight sightseeing, the crowds are almost non-existent, and the weather is… Yeah, well, it’s cold. But it’s February. Dress warmly and you’ll be fine.

We booked the Circle of Iceland in Winter 8-Day Guided Adventure with Guide to Iceland. Their website is easy to navigate and includes plenty of reviews.

Pinterest graphic with the text Iceland in February: an 8-day Ring Road Tour over a stunning picture of the northern lights mostly in green

Scroll to the end of this post to view other tour ideas.

Day 1: The Golden Circle & Horseback Riding

Our Iceland Journey Begins

At eight o’clock on a dark, cold, wet, and very windy morning, we trundle our suitcases from Hotel Ódinsvé along quiet streets to the bus stop next to Hallgrimskirkja, the massive church that dominates the Reykjavik skyline (“kirkja” means church).

Along with dozens of other shivering tourists, we wait for our tour bus to arrive.

Over the next forty minutes, bus after bus pulls up, a guide hops out, calls a few names, and then drives off to begin tours ranging from a day trip around the Golden Circle to a full-on ‘around Iceland’ tour.

After thirty minutes, I start to worry that I got the place or the time wrong. Maybe we’ll be stranded here in the cold for the next eight days. The crowd starts to thin. Just a handful of people remain when a bus pulls up and out jumps a man about my age. He calls my name and I want to fall into his arms and kiss him.

I don’t, of course. Which is just as well since later I find out that he’s happily married with seven children.

Onto the Bus

We clamber onto the 16-seat bus, nod greetings to the few people already on board and take the two seats three rows from the front.

We drive off into the darkness, stopping a few more times to pick up our tour mates. By the time we’re done, the bus contains 15 people, including us: six people from China (two other mother-daughter couples), one couple from India, one couple from Australia, and three single women—a fellow Canadian from Quebec, a woman from Norway, and one from Germany..

Julia and I, along with the two Aussies, are the only people on the bus for whom English is our first language, which I find interesting.

Leaving Reykjavik, the Capital of Iceland

The bus stops at a gas station on the outskirts of Reykjavik, and our guide/driver, Jon, introduces himself. He’s a retired policeman and an experienced driver. I get the sense that he’s not to be messed with. He tells us that the road to Þingvellir (pronounced Thingvellir), our first stop on the Golden Circle, is closed. Great! Maybe we shouldn’t have come to Iceland in February.

Will we spend our vacation sitting in a gas station parking lot?

Jon tells us to relax and go with the flow. It’s Sunday morning and cars routinely get stuck in the snow on the road going over the mountain between Reykjavik and Þingvellir. He advises us to grab a coffee and buy spikes if we haven’t already.

Spikes are steel-studded rubber slip-ons you pull over your boots to prevent falling on the ice. We already have our spikes, but most other people don’t. Jon also sternly warns us in what I take to be his policeman voice to NEVER wear spikes in the bus.

Julia and I chat with the women from Norway and Quebec. The Norwegian woman is writing a book about Iceland. Throughout the trip, she sits at the front of the bus eagerly questioning Jon and taking notes.

On the Road to Þingvellir

Jon gets word that the road to Þingvellir has opened so we set off. It’s still pretty dark at about 9:30 am, but as we drive out of the city and across rolling, icing-sugar hills, the sky begins to lighten.

To the east, a narrow slit of sun-tinged blue slices apart clouds the color of grey wool socks. The vistas are dreary and stunning at the same time.

We pass the largest freshwater lake in Iceland and are informed that we are driving on the North American side of the tectonic plates. Soon, we’ll cross to the Eurasian plate. At Þingvellir, the two plates rise above ground. You can walk (or snorkel) between them.

Jon tells us that at the time of Settlement (871±2), trees covered 40% of Iceland. Within 200 years, most of the trees were cut down for firewood and to make way for sheep. Now, only about 2% of Iceland is tree-covered.

We stop for photos just as the sun blasts through the clouds. Julia takes her first of many (many) pictures featuring her crocheted dolls of Jon Snow and Daenerys Targaryen of Game of Thrones fame.

Daenerys Targaryen and Jon Snow on the Golden Circle

Julia is a crochet artist who runs an online business selling her patterns and dolls. To learn more, check out Wayward Pineapple Creations. I’ll include more of her Jon and Daenerys photos in this post.

Iceland’s Famed Golden Circle

Three major sites comprise the Golden Circle: Þingvellir National Park, Geysir Thermal Area, and Gullfoss, a dramatic double waterfall. Pretty much every visitor to Iceland who stays more than a few hours makes the trip around the Golden Circle. As a result, the three sites are mobbed, even in February.

For more about the sites on the Golden Circle see Travel in Iceland: Top Tips for an Awesome Trip.

Riding on Icelandic Horses

After our stop at stupendous Gullfoss, we head south toward the Ring Road. Our destination is a stable that offers rides on Icelandic horses. The horseback riding activity is one of the optional tours we’ve added to our main tour package. Julia and I have signed up for every optional tour with the exception of the whale watching. Julia gets seasick even on the dock, so we figured a boat ride was not advisable.

Icelandic horses are small, shaggy, sturdy, strong, and absolutely adorable. The Icelandic horses you’ll see running across the landscape all over the country are direct descendants of the horses the Vikings brought to Iceland at the time of Settlement in 871±2.

Mounting the Horse

The young woman who will be our guide leads a beautifully disheveled, long-maned horse towards me and introduces her as Heklava.

I put my foot into the stirrup, rise up, and then quickly realize I’m in trouble when my leg won’t respond to my command to throw itself over Heklava. What am I thinking? I’m no longer young and I’m definitely no longer light, even after shedding 17 pounds in preparation for this very thing.

For months, I’ve been motivated by the prospect of riding an Icelandic horse. Every time I craved something fattening, I imagined the furry little guys and how humiliated I’ll be if I’m unable to get on one, or worse, I make it collapse under my weight. They are sturdy, but how sturdy?

In a momentary loss of confidence, I say to the guide “I don’t think I can do this.”

She tells me to try again and with a clenching of abs that would make any Pilates instructor swoon, I hoist myself high enough to fling a leg over poor, unprotesting Heklava. I wonder what she’s thinking. Probably about the oats she’ll get in an hour after patiently trotting the chubby Canadian through hurricane-strength gusts.

I made it onto Heklava, but I don’t think she’s impressed.

I’m on top of the world! The guide tells me how to hold the reins, says to pull left for left and right for right, and then tells me not to worry about it. The horse will just follow the horse in front of her. Heklava certainly seems very docile which is just fine with me.

Setting Off Across the Windy Valley

We set off. The wind sweeps across the valley, almost knocking me from Heklava who barely flinches. I wonder if it’s possible to be blown off a horse and renew my frantic clenching of abs and thighs.

A slight lull in the wind gives me time to snap a photo.

I start off right behind the guide as we head out along a path leading up a snowy ridge. My cheeks are burning with cold, but I’m too afraid to release my death grip on the reins to adjust my scarf—as if Heklava would make a run for it if I wasn’t hanging on for dear life. Somehow, I doubt it. She’s more interested in nuzzling the butt of the horse in front of her, probably in search of warmth.

I sympathize.

We walk at a sedate pace through glorious, snow-dusted countryside flooded with golden afternoon light. During the few moments when the wind gusts die, the experience is heavenly—a gentle, ambling stroll on a Viking horse across land settled by Vikings.

I embrace my inner Norse person. Actually, I’m not sure I have any Norse DNA, but for one glorious hour atop Heklava, I am Freya, the ancient goddess of love, sex, beauty, and fertility.

Heading Back

On our way back to the stables, the guide turns around and tells us that we’ll trot the rest of the way.

No!!

Heklava follows the lead of the horse ahead and soon I’m bouncing around like a demented rag doll. Will my health insurance cover a fall from a horse?

Back at the stables, I slide off Heklava and, losing my balance for a few mortifying seconds, stagger across the corral—more a drunken female Bacchus than a stately love goddess.

Heklava does not spare me a backward glance as she clomps with gloomy forbearance into her stall and sets to work eating hay.

Evening at Fosshotel Hekla

On the way from the stables to our hotel near the small town of Hella, we pass a point where the winds are said to be the strongest in Iceland (which is saying something).

Wind is a constant in Iceland. It blasts your eyes, freezes your skin, rips car doors off their hinges, and turns horseback riding into an ordeal.

Fosshotel Hekla is a stylish place with a good restaurant and an outdoor hot tub. After dinner, we crunch through the snow under a full moon to reach the hot tub. Submerged to our necks in warmth, we stare up at the Icelandic sky with gratitude for a perfect Day 1 of our tour.

Our first day closes with a stay at Fosshotel Hekla.

We’re told that the northern lights are due for an appearance around midnight. We try to stay up, but after getting to our room glowing from the hot tub and post-horseback riding exhaustion, we are both fast asleep by 10 pm.

Day 2: Iceland’s South Coast & Glacier Hike

Our first breakfast on the tour is a harbinger of breakfasts to come. It’s fantastic! After avoiding bread for weeks prior to the trip so I wouldn’t be in danger of injuring the Icelandic horse, I have to give in and try the warm bread slathered with fresh Icelandic butter. Heaven!

It’s a very good thing that the horseback riding occurred on Day 1. Now I can scarf down warm bread and butter every morning for the rest of the tour.

The buffet also includes plenty of smoked fish, eggs, fresh fruit, cereals, and oatmeal. No one is going to go hungry on this tour.

On to the Ring Road

We’re on the bus promptly at 8:00 am for the drive south to the Ring Road and then east toward the glaciers. The Ring Road connecting most of the coastal towns in Iceland was not completed until 1974. Before then, people could be pretty cut off, particularly during the winter. Even now, stretches of the road are often closed because of poor weather.

Land of Volcanoes

Looming in the distance as the sun rises is Mount Hekla, a stratovolcano and one of Iceland’s most active volcanoes. Over 20 eruptions have occurred since 874. In the Middle Ages, the volcano was called the Gateway to Hell. We’re told that she (they call her ‘she’) could erupt at any moment.

The volcano Hekla in Iceland
The volcano Hekla in Iceland

The south coast is bulwarked by mountains, all of which are active volcanoes covered with glaciers.

In 2010, the ice cap Eyjafjallajökull (“jökull” means glacier) that covers the caldera of a volcano, erupted. Air traffic was stalled for six days, and Iceland was put on the map.

Eyjafjallajökull eruption in Iceland
Eyjafjallajökull eruption

In addition to seeing pictures of the devastation caused by the eruption, the outside world was introduced to the stunning Icelandic landscape. The secret was out. Since 2010, tourism to Iceland has exploded. The country now welcomes well over two million visitors every year.

The weather is glorious—deep blue sky, sun bouncing off glittering glaciers, a bracing wind. We are driving along one of the most spectacular stretches of the Ring Road—glaciers to the left and the rolling Atlantic Ocean to the right. Our guide stops frequently so we can snap photos of the scenery.

Spectacular glaciers in the south of Iceland
Spectacular glaciers in the south of Iceland

Lava Center

We visit the newly built Lava Center to learn about volcanoes and earthquakes. I find the interactive exhibits fascinating and not a little unnerving. We learn that several volcanoes in the immediate vicinity (not just Hekla) could erupt “at any moment.”

The news is not reassuring.

Waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss

On our way to the scheduled glacier hike, we visit two spectacular waterfalls.

In the summer, Seljalandsfoss can be circled on a path that passes behind it. But in February, the ice on the parking lot poses a significant hazard even with our spikes. I am terrified of falling! Also, the entire waterfall is shrouded in frigid shadow. We take some quick photos and retreat to the bus.

Seljalandsfoss from behind taken during the summer
 Seljalandsfoss in February
Seljalandsfoss in February – Brrrrr

Skógafoss is wider and to my mind more spectacular. Rainbows play across the tumbling waters of one of the largest waterfalls in the country.

We’re told about the legend of Þrasi Þórólfsson, the first Viking settler in the area who buried a treasure in a cave behind Skógafoss. Locals apparently found the chest years later but were able to grasp only the ring on the side of the chest before it disappeared. The ring was supposedly given to the local church and is displayed in the Skógar Museum.

Even gorgeous Skógafoss doesn’t cheer up Jon Snow.

Glacier Hike on Sólheimajökull

A highlight of the day, if not the entire tour, is the glacier hike on Sólheimajökull.

The glacier hike is the one activity I’ve not exactly been dreading, but I have worried whether my fitness level is up to it. I don’t want to be the person straggling along at the rear, too out of breath to put one spiked foot in front of the other.

Fortunately, I needn’t have worried.

Preparing for the Hike

We start by getting outfitted with glacier-trekking equipment—a helmet, harness, ice axe and heavy-duty spikes that are grown-up cousins of the regular ones we wear to navigate the parking lots.

Carol Cram on the glacier in Iceland
On the glacier

We put on our helmets and harnesses then carry our axes and spikes across a lava field that in the 1990s was feet deep in glacier. The rapid rate at which the glacier has receded in the past twenty years is sobering, to say the least. What would have been a two-minute walk from the parking lot to the lip of the glacier in the 1990s is now a good twenty-minute trek alongside a glacier lagoon over a rough, lava-strewn field.

Walking toward Sólheimajökull glacier in Icleand
Walking toward Sólheimajökull

When we are almost to the glacier, we put on the spikes—a surprisingly involved process—and then hoist our ice axes. Feeling exceedingly rugged and outdoorsy, we set off toward a path cut into the side of the ice.

Climbing up the Glacier

Our guide, a delightful young Swedish woman named Sara, walks at a sedate pace that I find very manageable. So far so good. We begin our ascent of the glacier. She teaches us to “walk like an angry troll” in the spikes—feet well apart, each step strong and decisive. I keep saying “angry troll” to myself as I crash each foot down and feel the spikes dig reassuringly into the slush and ice.

Thanks to the spikes, I soon relax and marvel at the incredible otherworldly beauty rising all around us. The ice is sprayed with black volcanic ash in some places, white and tinged blue in others. I am very small against the immensity of ice rising all around me.

We stop frequently to take photos and to let the slower walkers catch up. I am relieved that I’m not one of them.

The paths we ascend are just steep enough to get the heart thumping and breath coming in short gasps, but not so steep that I regret coming. The exercise feels good after so much bus-sitting. Finally, we emerge into brilliant sunshine on top of a world of vast, frozen magnificence.

We are extremely lucky with the weather. Sara tells us that it’s not uncommon for visitors to see nothing more than the back of the person walking in front of them.

We can see for miles!

Eating Ice on a Glacier

Sara applies her ice axe to a flank of the glacier and breaks off pieces of it that she hands around to us. Glacier water is the purest in the world—especially in Iceland. We hold the pieces up and take photos through it then suck the exquisite coldness.

We spend several minutes on the glacier, snapping photos and enjoying the spectacular view. Sara tells us that the day before, the group couldn’t see anything beyond the person directly in front of them. We can see for miles.

Going down the steep path cut into the ice is more challenging than going up, but I learn that the spikes are to be trusted. I step heavily and lean back as instructed. My knees and thighs get a wonderful workout.

Reynisfjara Beach

Our last stop of the day is world-famous Reynisfjara Beach. Here, tourists have been swept away by the ferocious waves, often on days when the ocean appears calm. Our guide warns us repeatedly to NEVER turn our back on the ocean no matter how calm it looks. People have done so to take selfies and have been swept to their deaths.

Reynisfjara Beach.
Reynisfjara Beach – next stop: Antarctica

Thus soberly warned, we don’t venture any closer than about 30 meters from the water’s edge. Instead, we pose on the basalt columns and snap numerous photos of the sun setting over jagged black rocks poking up from the sea.

Basalt columns at Reynisfjara Beach
Julia on the basalt columns at Reynisfjara Beach

Vik

As the sun sets on Day 2, we drive to the village of Vik where we stock up on snacks and souvenirs. A few of the people on our tour load up on bags full of groceries including cartons of eggs and even a large bottle of ketchup.

We can’t figure out how they plan to cook their food since so far as we know, none of the hotels have kitchens. I suppose they must have managed somehow. We never saw them in the dining area for the entire duration of the tour.

Evening at Hotel Katla

The Hotel Katla is the most rustic of the hotels we stay in during the tour, but it’s clean and comfortable and includes a dining room with food that isn’t quite as pricey as we find in most of the other hotels.

We venture into the hot tub in the evening but it is unfortunately not quite hot enough to cancel out the freezing air temperature, so we retreat to our room for a quiet night.

Day 3: Jokulsarlon & Ice Caving

We’re pretty stoked about our impending visit to an ice cave! I mean, how often do you get to visit an ice cave carved into the side of a glacier? Not very.

On our way to Skaftafell National Park and the Vatnajokull glacier—the largest in Europe—we travel across the black sand desert of Skeiðarársandur. The weather is glorious—to our left gleaming glaciers and steep ridges, and to our right the ocean waves glinting under a blazing sun.

Skeiðarársandur vista in Iceland
Daenerys and Jon in front of a landscape featured in Game of Thrones

Our guide again informs us that we are very lucky to have sun. It’s not uncommon for trips along the south coast to be cancelled because of “life-threatening weather.”

We stop frequently to enjoy the views and take pictures. But each stop is a new exercise in terror. One inattentive step lies between me and an extended stay in an Icelandic hospital, not to mention inconveniencing the other 14 passengers.

360-degree view in southern Iceland

Sheets of ice stretch in all directions in the parking lots—sometimes sprinkled with black sand, but never enough to counteract the slick danger. I walk like a penguin—each step carefully placed in a waddle of fear. Every so often, a frisson of sheer terror vibrates from ice to leg to core when I feel my feet slipping.

Historical Exhibitions

Kirkjubæjarklaustur

We stop by two visitor centers on our way to the ice caves. The first is an informative exhibition near the marvellously named Kirkjubæjarklaustur (often shortened to Klaustur) about the disastrous eruption of Lakagígaror Laki in 1783.

I’m fascinated by the film called “The Fire Mass” that centers on the effect the eruption had on the local farmers. The volcano erupted from June 1783 to February 1784, spewing over 42 billion tons of lava into the air along with clouds of poisonous gasses that led to the deaths of over 50% of Iceland’s livestock, not to mention 25% of the human population.

The 1783 eruption had far-reaching and global consequences. Among other things, the eruption caused the famine in France that led to the French Revolution.

On both of our days in Iceland’s most volatile geologic region, I’m reminded how vulnerable we are as a species. If any one of the currently active volcanoes were to erupt, air traffic could be disrupted not for weeks, like it was during the Eyjafjallajökull eruption in 2010, but for up to 18 months.

All communications would be wiped out as the deadly ash spews into the upper atmosphere. The effect on our food supply would be catastrophic. In some ways, the hard-scrabble farmers who lived in the area in 1783 were better off. At least they had crops and animals to eat for the first month or two before the toxicity levels made everything inedible. In our modern, store-dependent lives, we’d last maybe a week on canned goods before starvation set in.

And no Internet? It doesn’t bear thinking about.

Vatnajokull Visitor Center

We also pop into the Vatnajokull Visitor Center to enjoy another informative film (I’m a sucker for them) about the area and how it changes from season to season. Several enticing trails start at the Visitor Center which we hope to explore when we return in summer.

When, not if!

Vatnajokull glacier during the summer

After a quick lunch of a fresh and delicious smoked salmon baguette, we press on to the ice cave experience, stopping at yet another ice-slick parking lot. This one is so bad that Jon pulls the bus to within two feet of the entrance to the glacier bus.

Even with just two feet spanning the distance between the two doors, everyone needs the help of both guides to jump across. This is one slippery country in winter!

Ice Caving

The glacier bus is about the same size as our tour bus, but with very large tires designed to get the bus up, onto, and over the glacier. Our new guide keeps up an interesting and amusing commentary while driving onto the glacier.

The drive to the ice caves takes a good 15 minutes across a spectacular snowscape. Dazzling blue sky above, turquoise-tinged ice below, massive fields of snow-covered moraine all around. The bus lurches and rumbles along the track.

The view is beyond belief—ice and snow, lava and glaciers, endless sky puffed with white clouds.

We’re on top of the world.

Preparing for the Ice Cave

When we stop, the guide sternly reviews the drill. First, we are to put on our helmets in the bus. Not outside the bus. In the bus. We are not to step outside the bus until we have our helmets on. No exceptions.

He warns us, repeatedly, to NEVER take our helmets off from the moment we step from the vehicle onto the ice until we return. Like, NEVER. He is very, very insistent.

If we are caught taking our helmet off, we will get a severe reprimand. If we do it twice, we will be sent back to the bus, ice cave tour over. He repeats the directions so many times that I’m wondering just how often people dare to defy him.

We comply, of course (hey, we’re Canadian), and firmly affix our helmets to our heads.

Stepping onto the Ice

With exquisite care, I step out of the bus onto sheer ice. No wonder the guide insisted we put on our helmets before getting off the bus. A fall would crack open a human head like it’s a watermelon. In this blue and white world, red would not be a good look.

I have to shuffle just three feet from the door of the bus to where the guide is handing out our heavy-duty, super-duper, industrial-strength spikes. I’m not sure I can make it and hug the side of the bus, taking tiny steps.

As the guide hands out the spikes, he exhorts us to hold them and do nothing. He breaks off to yell at a man in the group who has dared emerge onto the ice sans helmet. Boy, does the guy get a tongue-lashing. Being on the receiving end of an angry Icelander is not my idea of fun.

The ice cave guide tells us later that he has five children and has absolutely no problem being the bad guy if it means keeping everyone safe. I get it.

Guide on the glacier at the ice caves in Iceland
Our guide into the ice caves

Another person in the group starts putting on the spikes after being told not to do anything until directed. Sigh. There‘s one in every group. In our group, there are two.

She is told to remove the spikes and to listen to his directions.

Setting Off for the Ice Cave

Finally, we are all correctly helmeted and spiked. We set off across the glacier toward the ice cave, following the guide in single file.

The wind whips up with stinging efficiency. I dig in my spikes, walking like a mountain troll the way we were taught on the glacier the day before. Left, right, left, right—legs wide apart, feet planted with decisiveness. There’s no mincing about on a glacier.

Carol Cram on the glacier
Got my helmet and my spikes – I’m good!

The trek to the ice cave takes only about ten minutes across a ridge from which we have a glorious 360-degree view of the glaciers. In the distance is the site of one of the Game of Thrones scenes. Julia is impressed.

Entering the Ice Cave

We arrive at a set of snow steps leading down to the ice cave. I have seen pictures but really have no idea what to expect. We descend one by one into a land of such pristine, crystalline beauty that I can only stare in awe.

The ice cave is white and light blue and gray and black-flecked and deep blue. The surfaces are smooth and pock-marked, bubbled and streaked. The guide tells us to touch the ice, to feel it melt under the heat of our fingertips. Everyone is snapping pictures, and I do too, pausing every so often to just stand and be one with the otherworldly beauty.

The cave is small – only about eight meters long and two meters wide, just big enough to comfortably fit fifteen people all taking pictures at the same time and to still be able to take pictures that include only ice.

The guide yells again, this time even louder than before. Despite being warned earlier, one of the women has removed her helmet for a photo op. Oh dear!

After the cave, we take turns sliding down a small hill. Here’s a video of Julia.

Julia sliding down a glacier in Iceland

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

We visit the lagoon and the black sand beach. Both are spectacular, particularly the lagoon, famed as one of Iceland’s most iconic spots. Icebergs that have broken off from the glacier Breiðamerkurjökull float into the lagoon and out to the ocean.

We spot seals lounging on the icebergs and sliding in and out of the water like kids at a waterpark.

Panorama at Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

Fosshótel Vatnajökull

Our night is spent at the lovely and very modern Fosshótel Vatnajökull, way out in the countryside. An early night is in order to recover from all the ice-caving excitement.

Exterior of Fosshotel Vatnajökull in south Iceland
Fosshotel Vatnajökull in south Iceland

Day 4: The Eastfjords

After three days of glorious sunshine, we drive into rain on Day 4. The Eastfjords are apparently spectacular—deep fjords carved into the mountainsides, wild reindeer roaming the hills, charming coastal villages. We don’t see much of the mountains, but we do see quite a few herds of wild reindeer which is pretty exciting.

Reindeer in Iceland
Reindeer in Iceland

I definitely want to return to this area when the weather is better. It’s one of the least-touristed areas in Iceland and still feels very wild. We wind around fjord after fjord, stopping in a few of the villages, including this one with an interesting art installation.

Art installation of different granite eggs in Eastfjords village in Iceland
Art installation in a village in East Iceland

Lake Hótel Egilsstaðir

The sun bursts out just as we arrive at the charming Lake Hótel Egilsstaðir. As its name suggests, the hotel overlooks Lake Egilsstaðir which is ice-covered at this time of year. We enjoy a walk in the sunshine over crunchy snow.

Gorgeous sunset at Lake Egilsstaðir

After a gourmet dinner in the hotel restaurant, we hear that the northern lights are on! Everyone piles out into the snow to watch the sky. I see a few flashes and one dancing spiral, but that’s about it. We wait for a while and then return to our room.

No worries! We still have a few days more to see the lights.

Although sightings of the northern lights obviously can’t be guaranteed, the guide does his best throughout the trip to inform us when the lights might occur.

I download the app to my phone as well and keep an eye out. Just the quick taste of them at the hotel is enough to excite us for how amazing they could be.

Daenerys  enjoys the sunset rays at Lake Egilsstaðir.

Day 5: Lake Mývatn and Dimmuborgir

So much to see today! Our destination is Lake Mývatn and a late afternoon dip in the Mývatn Nature Baths—northern Iceland’s answer to the Blue Lagoon.

Dimmuborgir Rock Formations

Julia is really looking forward to visiting these strange rock formations. Dimmuborgir means “dark castles” and was the setting for several scenes in Game of Thrones. According to legend, this area is home to the hidden people whom many think still exist.

Learn more about Icelandic folklore and the elusive elves by attending Elf School in Reykjavik. It’s on my list for my next trip.

Julia at Dimmuborgir

We are again lucky with the weather. The fantastical rock outcroppings, many dusted with fresh snow, rise starkly against a sparkling blue sky. The air is very cold and crisp, and the pathways winding around the formations are virtually tourist-free. We almost have the whole place to ourselves.

Dimmuborgir in  northern Iceland
Beautiful Dimmuborgir

Námaskarð Thermal Area

I’m very taken with this geothermal area of bubbling mud pools and steaming fumaroles. The rust-red earth is streaked with rainbow colors under shifting clouds of steam. Blasts of warmth cut through the chilly air.

Námaskarð Thermal Area in northern Iceland

In the summer, the area is crowded, but today, the parking lot contains just a few cars and small tour busses. Here’s a 360-degree view of the area. As you can see, it’s stunning!

Goðafoss

A foss is a waterfall and Goðafoss is one of Iceland’s finest. This Waterfall of the Gods (Goða means “gods”) tumbles over a wide escarpment.

Goðafoss Waterfall in Iceland
Goðafoss Waterfall in Iceland

A legend published in the 19th century describes how in around the year 1000, the lawspeaker Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði made Christianity the official religion of Iceland. To seal the deal, he supposedly threw his statues of the Norse gods into the waterfall.

Mývatn Nature Baths

We circle Lake Mývatn (“Fly Lake”). In the summer, the area is hopping but is also, as the name suggests, a haven for flies. In February, the flies are all sleeping so we can enjoy the dramatic volcanic scenery around the lake in comfort.

The day ends with a visit to the Mývatn Nature Baths. This is an optional add-on – not everyone joins in, but most do.

The Mývatn Nature Baths are not particularly extensive and not nearly as large as the Blue Lagoon. For that reason, I’m not sure I’d want to visit in summer when the crowds get thick. But in winter, a visit there is a fabulous experience.

The excitement starts in the changeroom when, along with everyone else, I am required to strip naked and wash in the communal shower. A diagram highlights the areas to wash—underarms, feet, and you-know-where. The Icelandic people are not shy. Having a naked shower and then pulling on a dry swimsuit is an exercise in contortion but I finally manage it and make my way to the exit.

Entering the Mývatn Nature Baths

The distance from the warm interior to the warm pool is about 10 meters—10 meters of frozen wasteland in a gusting wind. I take a deep breath, fling open the door and tippy-toe as quickly as possible down the incline and into the pool.

Ahhhhh.

The warmth! The wind! Oh no—the wind! It gusts across the water, churning white caps and making us feel like we’re tossing on an angry sea—which we kind of are.

From the neck down, all is warmth and happiness. But from the neck up, exposed skin is blasted with a frigid squall. I don’t dare duck under all the way. For one thing, I’m not sure that’s wise in a hot spring and for another, I intuitively sense that exposing wet hair to cold wind might not end well.

Enjoying the Mývatn Nature Baths

I am distracted by the view. Stretching before us for as far as we can see is a misty expanse of snow-dusted lava ringing a sheet-white lake. In the distance a perfect cone pierces a sky already edging toward sunset although it’s just 4 pm.

Steam rises from the baths and is blown away by the wind. We are in a science fiction world of ice and fire, hot and cold. We bob around in search of warm spots and end up hanging out with some other people from the tour near an intake point.

Mývatn nature baths in north Iceland
Mývatn nature baths in northern Iceland

The water in the Mývatn baths is 100% natural from the earth with no chemicals added. The water is not salty and thick like it is at the Blue lagoon. Although the pong of sulfur permeates the air, I find it less obnoxious than the heavy smell of the Blue Lagoon that eventually made me feel ill. For my account of our morning at the Blue Lagoon see Iceland’s Blue Lagoon: Should You Go?

Two waterfalls of warm water pound down close by. I bob over and submit to a massage over my shoulders and let my head get wet. The wind has died down and I no long feel in danger of contracting pneumonia.

Across a barrier is a second large pool of marginally cooler water. We climb out of the hot pool and dash across the narrow barrier to the cool pool just because we figure the warm pool will feel even warmer after the cool pool.

Mývatn Nature Baths at Sunset
Mývatn Nature Baths at sunset

The cool pool is closer to the view and feels like it drops off into infinity. The snow-dusted lava rocks ringing it add drama to the scene. This ain’t your normal swimming hole.

Our last stop is the hottest pool—a long, thin affair heated to 41 degrees. We clamber in and give ourselves over to several more minutes of bliss while the sun sets in earnest. By the time we get out, the setting sun is coating the steaming water with gold. We struggle out of wet bathing suits and into outdoor clothes, faces glowing red.

Mývatn vs. the Blue Lagoon

If Iceland can be said to have a tourist controversy it would be Mývatn versus the Blue Lagoon. Which is better? Should you go to both? Or should you go to just one—and if so, which one? Or neither?

My considered opinion, having gone to both, is to visit the Blue Lagoon first, just because it’s pretty amazing if you haven’t done Mývatn, and then do Mývatn second because it’s so much better than the Blue Lagoon.

On the other hand, if you go to Mývatn first, then don’t bother with the Blue Lagoon, because it’s more crowded, way more expensive, and just a tad overwhelming. That said, I’m very glad I experienced the Blue Lagoon fresh off the plane. It is an experience, for sure, whereas Mývatn is just good, clean fun.

Fosshotel Mývatn

The Fosshotel Mývatn is gorgeous. Perched high on a hill overlooking the lake, the place is modern and well appointed. In fact, every Fosshotel we’ve stayed at during the trip is wonderful. When I return to Iceland, I’ll be booking them again.

When we check in, we’re asked if we’d like a northern lights wake-up call. We say yes and hope the call won’t come in the middle of the night.

The Northern Lights

The call comes at 9 pm. Battle stations! We leap into our warm clothes (it’s really cold out!) and clump out to the parking lot. The hotel is perfectly situated for northern lights viewing. There are no other structures within miles and it’s high on a hill.

The ice underfoot is black and slick and deadly. I pause to put on my spikes and waddle out to be amazed. And yes, I am amazed—eventually. At first, a faint band of pale green stretches across the sky. I think it’s a cloud but am informed that no—it’s the northern lights. I am disappointed but resolve to stay outside a little longer.

A few more glimmers of green appear in the sky—impressive but not really blowing me away.

The Northern Lights Deliver

Several minutes later, the northern lights switch themselves on in earnest, and the parking lot echoes with squeals of delight. iPhones click, and the serious photographers with tripods and primed aperture settings bend to their viewfinders. Julia sets up her mini tripod on a convenient ledge and starts snapping.

I raise my iPhone to the lights and snap away but I get nothing. Apparently, my phone isn’t up to the task so I shove freezing fingers back into my gloves and resolve to just enjoy myself.

The lights begin to dance—swirling and spiraling and pulsing. The sky is alive with bright green and white and the occasional flashes of light pink at the base near the horizon. Halfway through the show, we join the woman from Quebec and set off across the frozen parking lot to slog up a snow-covered hill to a ridge.

We have a 360-degree view with a full moon shining behind us and the lights sweeping in a broad arc in front of us. The cold brightens my cheeks and slices through the thin material of my pants. We’d gotten ready in such a hurry that I’d neglected to put on my usual two layers—long johns and snow pants.

All the static shots I’ve seen of the northern lights have not prepared me for the movement. We stare awestruck at the gyrations. My pictures don’t even begin to do the show justice! Here are some stock pictures of the northern lights that give you some idea of their brilliance.

The Northern Lights in Norse Legend

At the Aurora Museum in Reykjavik, we’d read the scientific explanations for why the sky bursts with joyful abandon at certain times of the year. But I prefer to believe the ancient Norse explanations.

Here’s one of several.

Back in the day, Odin was the chief god and ruler of Asgard, revered by all Vikings. Odin’s task was to prepare for a series of events called Ragnarök that would presage the end of the gods. In Viking legend, Ragnarök was to be Odin’s greatest battle for which he needed the bravest warriors.

Enter the Valkyries – female warriors on horseback who wear armor and carry spears and shields. The northern lights are the reflections of the Valkyries’ armor as they lead Odin’s chosen warriors to Valhalla.

Isn’t that more interesting than charged particles from the sun striking atoms in the Earth’s atmosphere, causing electrons in the atoms to move to a higher-energy state, then dropping back to a lower-energy state and releasing a photon: light to create the northern lights? Or so I’m told.

Day 6: Northern Iceland

Today, we drive to Akureyri, Iceland’s second city. On the way, we stop for coffee and waffles at a dairy farm. The friendly owner takes some of us into the barn to see the very well-fed and contented cows.

Akureyri

And then it’s off to Akureyri for an afternoon of wandering around the shops while some of the tour group go whale watching.

Downtown Akureyri
Typical street in downtown Akureyri

The weather is wet and dreary and there’s not much to see in Akureyri so this day is the least exciting of the tour. I look forward to returning in summer when we can explore more of the small coastal villages in the area.

Kjarnalundur Hotel

Perched on a hill several kilometers outside Akureyri, the Kjarnalundur Hotel is not as well appointed as some of the other hotels we’ve stayed at. We eat take-out food bought in Akureyri and spend the evening doing not very much. No more northern lights!

Day 7: West Iceland and Snaefellsnes Peninsula

We start the day by driving along the north coast toward Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Jon tells us about his extensive experience with Icelandic horses, and we stop at a horse farm to get up close and snuggly with a few of the horses. I can’t get enough of the endearing little guys.

Carol Cram with an Icelandic horse
Me with my new friend in northern Iceland.

Jon was born in the area and entertains us with plenty of stories from his youth. We also stop to view the statue of Gudrid Thorbjarnardóttir who was born in Snæfellsnes in 980 and during her lifetime took eight sea voyages and traveled twice across Europe as far as Rome. Read more about her in Artsy Sightseeing on the Iceland page.

Deildartunguhver Hot Springs

We stop near Reykholtsdalur to view yet another wonderful thermal area at Deildartunguhver, the highest flowing hot springs in Europe. The water here is HOT—a constant 97 degrees Celsius (207 degrees Fahrenheit). Wooden walkways line the hot springs and we learn how much of the water is used to heat Icelandic homes.

More Waterfalls: Hraunfossar and Barnafoss

I’m not yet tired of waterfalls which is a good thing because Iceland sure has more than its share! Both of the waterfalls we visit are completely different and both are stunning.

Hraunfossar waterfall
Glacial River Pool, Barnafoss, Iceland. Barnafoss, also known as Bjarnarfoss, is near Hraunfossar which bursts out of Hallmundarhraun, a great lava plain.

Reykholt

We stop for the night in Reykholt, home of the great Snorri Sturluson who in Iceland is as revered as Shakespeare is in the English-speaking world. Read more about him in Artsy Sightseeing on the Iceland page.

Fosshotel Reykholt

The Fosshotel Reykholt is one of the best—modern, well appointed, and efficiently staffed. In the evening, we enjoy drinks with some of our tour mates, something we haven’t done much of during the tour.

Day 8: Snæfellsnes Peninsula and Return to Reykjavik

Today, we head farther west to the fabled Snæfellsnes Peninsula for a full day of spectacular scenery. Snæfellsjökull, a massive glacier-capped volcano, dominates the skyline as we drive into the Snæfellsjökull National Park, one of only three national parks in Iceland. The stratovolcano beneath Snæfellsjökull is 700,000 years old.

Snæfellsjökull in western Iceland on the Snæfellsnes  Peninsula

Kirkjufell

A highlight for Game of Thrones fans—and anyone, really—is the iconic Kirkjufell, otherwise known as Church Mountain. Note that “kirk” means church and “fell” means mountain.

Its distinctly shaped peak is probably the most photographed mountain in all of Iceland. And no wonder!

 Kirkjufell in western Iceland
Kirkjufell in western Iceland

We’re lucky to be able to park close by and snap several good photos. In the summer, the small parking lot gets overwhelmed with visitors, and the traffic is bumper to bumper along the road leading to it.

Jon gets us together for a group photo in front of Kirkjufell.

The group of 15 people on the eight-day tour around Iceland
The group on the eight-day tour around Iceland

Vatnshellir Lava Cave

Our last add-on tour is of the Vatnshellir Lava Cave. Wearing helmets and carrying small lanterns, we descend 35 meters into the 8,000-year-old lava cave created by a volcanic eruption in the nearby Purkholar crater.

The entertaining guide leads us past rainbow-colored volcanic rocks and petrified lava formations. At one point, we enter a side cave and turn off our lanterns to experience a few moments of true darkness. While the black presses into our eyes, the guide sings a haunting Icelandic song.

Very evocative!

Outside, a ferocious, sleet-filled wind has whipped up, and we scurry back to the bus for the final drive to Reykjavik.

Conclusion

Our eight-day tour of Iceland provided an awesome introduction to this wonderful country and thoroughly whetted our appetites to return.

On the next trip, we’ll rent a car and explore the Ring Road at a more leisurely pace. At least two weeks is needed so we can go on a few hikes and spend more time in the Eastfjords and the north.

I’d also like to explore some of the highlands, Iceland’s spectacular and vast interior hinterland that is closed during the winter. The Westfjords region in northwest Iceland is another remarkable area that even at the height of summer is sparsely visited.

Here are some tours to consider if you’re thinking about visiting Iceland.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Have You Visited Iceland?

Please share your experiences and recommendations in the comments below!

Here are more posts about Iceland:

Blue lagoon in Iceland

Should You Visit the Blue Lagoon in Iceland?

Are you planning to visit Iceland?

If so, consider visiting the Blue Lagoon where you’ll experience one of Iceland’s top places for enjoying the miraculous thermal waters that heat most of the country and make many of its surfaces bubble and gush.

The famous Blue Lagoon in Iceland is an expensive, slickly produced experience as far removed from jumping into a natural hot spring in the Icelandic hinterland as you can get.

But should you go? Definitely!

Pinterest graphic with the text Iceland's Blue Lagoon over a picture of the blue lagoon in Iceland.

Overview

I visited the Blue Lagoon on my first morning in Iceland on a February trip with my daughter, Julia. Here are my impressions and my tips for making the most of the none-too-cheap experience.

It’s a bucket list thing to do, for sure. But make sure you go very early so you won’t have to share your experience with hundreds of other bobbing best friends.

Blue lagoon in Iceland showing the buildings and a bridge. The water is ice blue.
Blue lagoon geothermal spa in Iceland

Yes, entrance to the Blue Lagoon is strictly regulated but by noon when I left, it was pretty darned crowded compared to how empty it was when I arrived.

In the early morning when the crowds are sparsest, you’ll be enveloped in steam and warmth and feel like you’re the only person on Earth.

Purchasing Tickets

You must purchase tickets for a time slot to visit the Blue Lagoon in advance of your trip to Iceland. If you’re planning a visit to Iceland in the busy summer months, purchase tickets several months ahead.

Although I was visiting in February, I found availability was already limited when I booked in November. And if you want to include a massage or eat at the Lava Restaurant, don’t wait!

At the same time as you purchase your tickets to the Blue Lagoon, purchase bus tickets from the airport to the Blue Lagoon and from the Blue Lagoon to Reykjavik (or the other way around).

Here are some options for purchasing Blue Lagoon tickets through Tiqets.com:

Blue Lagoon Strategy

A good strategy is to go to the Blue Lagoon just after you land in Iceland or, if your flight time allows, on the morning you depart. The Blue Lagoon is situated in a lava field near Grindavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula, about 20 minutes from Keflavík International Airport and 50 minutes from Reykjavík.

Buy Blue Lagoon and bus tickets directly from the Blue Lagoon website if you’re traveling independently. Another idea is to combine your visit to the Blue Lagoon with a tour that includes transportation and other sightseeing. Here’s an option with GetYourGuide:

Powered by GetYourGuide

Following is my summary of a Blue Lagoon Experience in February.

Arriving in Iceland

We touch down at Keflavik International Airport at 6 am after an eight-hour overnight flight on Icelandair from Vancouver. We are not alone! Many flights from North America arrive early, so the stylishly designed airport is hopping.

We wait about thirty minutes inside the warm terminal for our pre-paid bus ride to the Blue Lagoon. Ten minutes before it’s due to arrive, we venture out into an Icelandic morning in February.

Cold? Yes, very. But it’s definitely refreshing after eight hours on a plane.

Getting to the Blue Lagoon

The bus arrives, and it’s a scramble as everyone surges forward to stow their luggage. We circle around to the other side and find room for our two suitcases and then present ourselves and our tickets to the driver.

Ahead of us is a group of six people who don’t have the right tickets. The driver is unmoved by their pleas. Finally, they step aside, and we board. It’s 7:30 am and pitch dark.

The bus lumbers out to the road flanked on either side by desolate fields studded with rocks. During the drive, we can’t see much and so both of us soon nod off. About twenty minutes later, we awaken to a slightly rockier landscape and a very faint glimmer of gray piercing the darkness. We’re close to the Blue Lagoon.

The first signs of it are clouds of steam from the massive thermal power plant that is the lagoon’s reason for existence.

If you’re expecting a natural hot spring, you’ll be disappointed. The Blue Lagoon is unashamedly man-made, although the hot, mineral-laden water is natural. The lagoon evolved from the warm blue reservoir that formed following the construction of the nearby Svartsengi geothermal power plant.

Geothermal plant at the Blue Lagoon
Geothermal plant at the Blue Lagoon

Arriving at the Blue Lagoon

The bus stops and we join the large queue outside a small building containing lockers for our luggage. I’m surprised at how long we have to wait at only 8 am. But finally, we struggle through a narrow corridor to the lockers, hand over our suitcases, get our tags, and follow signs to the entrance to the Blue Lagoon complex.

TIP: Make sure you pack your bathing suit, flip flops, and any toiletries you need in your carry-on bag so you have them handy when you arrive at the Blue Lagoon. You don’t want to be digging through your suitcase while waiting in the very crowded line-up.

It’s still very dark and also very cold. This is our first taste of Iceland weather, and we’re very glad of our warm coats, snow boats, hats, and gloves. But we’ve come to Iceland in February. What did we expect?

Entering the Blue Lagoon Complex

Inside the reception building that contains the changing rooms and a cafeteria, we are efficiently processed. Our reservation is checked and our locker is assigned. It’s incredibly well organized. The Blue Lagoon welcomes up to 4000 visitors per day year-round.

Entrance to the Blue Lagoon
The crowds haven’t yet arrived at the Blue Lagoon reception area

I’m struck by the cheerfulness of the attendant checking us in. She sees thousands of guests a day and yet she knows how exciting the experience is for first-timers and smiles at our enthusiasm.

She gives each of us a towel, a white robe and an electronically coded wristband. We must wear the wristbands at all times to get access to our lockers and to receive our free drink and face mud out in the lagoon. The wristbands are also encoded with the time of our scheduled massages.

We’ve paid several hundred dollars for our Blue Lagoon experience that includes transportation and in-water massages, so no wonder we’re excited.

I’m determined to enjoy every second!

Enjoying the Blue Lagoon

Preparing for the Blue Lagoon

Into the immaculately clean changeroom we go, where we divest ourselves of our heavy clothes and stuff them into the lockers which are not large. I’ve read that you’re expected to shower naked but everyone else is wearing a bathing suit as they enter the showers and so I do too.

I don’t want to scare people this early in the morning.

Graphic signs remind us to shower thoroughly and with soap. In Iceland, cleanliness at thermal pools is taken very seriously. You are expected to wash your hair and all parts of you. Shampoo and liquid soap are supplied.

Finally, showered and robed, we make our way to a glass-enclosed anteroom, hang up our robes on numbered hooks that we’ll hopefully remember, then get ready to exit to the great outdoors.

Dipping Into the Blue Lagoon

Ahead of us, we hear the squeals of guests as they expose flesh still dripping from their cleansing showers to the freezing air. I experience a moment of doubt.

Who walks outside at 8:30 am in the pitch dark (yes, it’s still dark) in Iceland in February wearing only a wet bathing suit?

Apparently, I do.

My bare feet encounter real, honest-to-goodness ice. I’m walking over ice in Iceland in bare feet! This is really a stupid idea. Is it too late to turn back? Will they refund my money?

I join the squealers and pick up the pace to cover the ice-slick ground from the entranceway into the waters of the blue lagoon—a distance of maybe ten yards. It feels like ten miles.

I am so nuts.

A good inch of fresh snow covers the railing at the top of the steps leading into the steam-swathed lagoon. I grip it anyway rather than risk slipping and ignominiously falling face first into the lagoon.

My toes reach the lapping waters which in the darkness look white under a heavy layer of steam. Ahead, I glimpse a few bobbing heads.

I feel like I’m about to descend into the pit of Hell. At any moment, Pluto will swoop down and, mistaking Julia for Persephone, carry her away forever.

The water laps up to my ankles, shins, thighs, and then….

Ahhhhhhhh!

Bobbing Around the Blue Lagoon

I descend up to my neck into the most blissful warmth I’ve ever experienced. The few people I see have their faces covered in thick white, black, or green silica. They are golems and ghosts and goblins.

I slosh slowly across the milky blue water of the lagoon to one of the silica stations.

Included in our admission to the Blue Lagoon is a nice big gloopy scoop of silica-laden mud. Reputed to have healing properties and infused with minerals, the mud is to be spread liberally over our faces and left on for about 30 minutes.

Person relaxing in the Blue Lagoon in Iceland
Entrance to the Blue Lagoon includes a mineral-enriched face mask

Dutifully, I hold out my cupped hands to receive a ladleful of goop from an attendant dressed head to toe in cold-weather gear. He or she (can’t tell) spends all day in the freezing cold air, doling goop out to half-naked people immersed in hot water. It’s not a job I would want.

To be honest, the mud stings a bit, but it’s included in the price and I’m darned if I’ll wash it off before it’s nourished my skin with its mineral goodness.

I bob around the water of the Blue Lagoon some more as very slowly the sky lightens and glows pale pink in the east. You don’t really swim in the blue lagoon.

Dawn is breaking over southwest Iceland at 9:00 am.

Exploring the Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon is massive and includes large outcroppings of lava, arched bridges to bob under, snow- covered hills emerging above the steam, and several steam caves.

Blue Lagoon geothermal spa in Iceland.
Blue Lagoon geothermal spa in Iceland.

Getting Your Free Drink

After exploring most of the attractively laid out complex of pools, Julia and I head over to the drinks bar. Included in the price of admission is a drink you can order from a surprising menu of choices that include alcohol.

I don’t fancy beer or wine this early in the morning and so opt for a green health drink.

Later, my choice will turn out to be a mistake, but the combination of spinach, ginger, and banana goes down easy. Julia gets a strawberry smoothie that’s almost as thick as the mud on her face.

Our massages are scheduled for 10:30, still about 45 minutes away. I don’t like to admit it, but the truth is that the bobbing about is starting to get a bit old. I’d booked the 1:30 bus to Reykjavik, and now I’m hoping I can change the time because spending another three hours splashing about the lagoon is beginning to lack appeal.

We return to the main building, retrieve our robes and towels and go upstairs to sit in one of the lounge chairs overlooking the lagoon. The crowds are thickening, and as the sky lightens, the lagoon is starting to look more like a regular swimming pool than the ethereal mist-shrouded wonderland it was when we first submerged.

We settle into the loungers and nap for about half an hour, warmed to the bone and rubbery with relaxation.

View over the Blue Lagoon at sunrise
View over the Blue Lagoon in the morning

Whatever is in the Blue Lagoon is good stuff.

By the time we go back downstairs to divest ourselves of our robes and return to the pool, every hook is taken. I’m not sure if the lagoon is at capacity, but it feels like it might be.

I’m very glad we booked three months ahead.

Experiencing an In-Water Massage in the Blue Lagoon

Back out in the lagoon we bob across to the cordoned-off area. An attendant sitting in a booth tells us to wait by the entrance to the private area for our masseuse to call our names. I’m excited again. I’m having a massage, in the water, in Iceland!

Woo hoo!

A young woman wearing a wetsuit and with her hair under a cap comes over and cheerfully welcomes me. She asks where I’m from and tells me she’s spent time in Canada. She helps me onto a yoga mat. I stretch out on my back and she covers with me with a heavy sodden blanket, then pushes me across the water into the massage area.

For the next thirty minutes, she moves well-oiled hands between my back and the mat, kneading plane-stiffened muscles up my spine and to my neck and then along each arm.

I want to relax. I really want to relax and enjoy this new form of ecstasy. But for some reason, I can’t unclench my jaw.

My masseur, in her lovely Icelandic accent, encourages me to relax. I try, but I feel exposed staring up into the grey void, still lightening with the coming day.

I close my eyes, but then I worry I’ll roll off the mat and drown. Every so often, the masseur shakes the mat to swoosh water up my back, warming me but not, unfortunately, relaxing me.

At the end of 30 minutes, she casts me adrift into an adjacent holding pond with other floating lumps. I meet up with Julia who has managed to accomplish bliss, and we float for a while before finally deciding that we’ve had enough.

Ending Our Blue Lagoon Experience

Back out in the main area, we agree that even though we’re supposed to stay another two hours, we’re done. It’s time to get dry and catch the first bus to Reykjavik.

We head for the changeroom. The combination of heat, the heavy mineral-sulfur smell of the lagoon waters, and the rich, green drink hit my system in an unpleasant way. I suddenly don’t feel at all well, but I shall spare you the details.

Fortunately, after a drink of water and a half hour of sitting in the cafeteria, I’m well enough to stumble out into the cold to retrieve our luggage and wait for the bus.

Blue Lagoon Recommendations

Our Blue Lagoon experience—anticipated for months—is over. Do I recommend it?

Absolutely!

I will say, however, that you’re likely to want to spend less time than you think. Your entrance allows you to stay for as long as you want, but I’d allocate about two to three hours.

Blue Lagoon in Iceland
Even when it’s crowded, the steam partially obscures other people at the Blue Lagoon

The price is steep for a few hours of watery bliss, but the Blue Lagoon is special. Even though you’ll likely visit a few more thermal pools while in Iceland, I recommend also spend time at the over-priced Blue Lagoon. It’s a marvel of efficiency and really like nothing else I’ve ever experienced.

Massage?

Should you shell out for the in-water massage? To be honest, I don’t think so. Julia enjoyed herself, but I can’t say I did. It wasn’t awful—the masseuse did her best. But for some reason, floating on a mat under a sodden blanket made me more anxious than relaxed.

You’ll pay about €120 for a thirty-minute massage.

Comfort vs. Premium

On the website, you’ll see two prices—Comfort and Premium. We chose Comfort at a cost that includes use of a towel and robe, one dollop of goop, and a drink. So far as I can tell, the Premium package at about 20 euros more doesn’t offer that much extra.

Note that prices vary somewhat depending on exchange rates between Icelandic Kröna (ISK) and Euros. Check the website for the latest prices.

Evening Visit

If you visit the Blue Lagoon after 7 pm (it closes at 10 pm), you pay about €48 for Comfort and €68 for Premium. If you’re lucky and visiting in the winter, you may see northern lights while you bask in the warm waters.

Hotel and Restaurant

The Blue Lagoon complex includes a hotel (The Retreat) and a gourmet restaurant. While both are reputed to be excellent, I wouldn’t want to spend a night at the Blue Lagoon.

Apart from splashing around the pools and eating, there’s not much else to do. The area surrounding the Blue Lagoon is pretty much a barren wasteland.

After your two or three hours, take the bus into Reykjavik where you’ll find lots of good hotels and restaurants, great shopping, and plenty of interesting sights.

Other Thermal Pools in Iceland

The Blue Lagoon is not the only place in Iceland where you can dunk in a thermally heated pool. You’ll find public swimming complexes, many including multiple pools, steam rooms, and hot tubs, in most communities throughout Iceland.

You’ll pay a fraction of the cost of the Blue Lagoon to warm yourself up, with the added bonus of sharing the experience with locals rather than other tourists.

You won’t find many locals at the expensive Blue Lagoon. The vast majority of your swim mates will be tourists just like you.

If you travel to the north, you won’t want to miss the Mývatn Nature Baths—another awesome experience. But it’s very different from the Blue Lagoon.

Entrance to the Myvatn Nature Baths in northern Iceland
Entry to the Myvatn nature baths in northern Iceland

My advice? Go to both and throw in a visit to a public swimming pool. You’re in Iceland!

For more about Iceland, check out Best of Iceland on An 8-Day Ring Road Tour.

Have you Visited the Blue Lagoon?

Let other Artsy Travelers know your experience at the Blue Lagoon. Do you think it’s worth the time and money? Leave your comments below.

Exploring Burgos and León along the Camino of Santiago

Burgos and León are both fascinating cities located along the Camino of Santiago in northern Spain.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie spent time in Burgos and León during her journey along the Camino of Santiago.

In this post, Elizabeth shares what to see and do in two of northern Spain’s most beautiful—and often under-visited—cities.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago

Orientation to Burgos & Leon

The map below includes the places mentioned in this post. Click a number to find out more information.

Exploring Burgos

Burgos is the provincial capital of Castilla y León in northern Spain. Its location on the Camino de Santiago route makes it a natural stopping point for pilgrims traveling the Way. This gorgeous medieval city is well worth a day or two of any traveler’s time.

If you’re traveling in northern Spain, put Burgos on your itinerary. Major sights include:

  • One of Spain’s most magnificent cathedrals
  • A castle
  • An atmospheric old city
  • Excellent museums, including the world-class Museo de Evolución Humana
  • The wonderfully photogenic Arco de Santa Maria
  • Wonderful food.

Museo de Evolución Humana

The Museo de Evolución Humana (#1) (Museum of Human Evolution) is simply terrific and a highlight of our travels in northern Spain. The modern glass construction with high open spaces houses three floors of authentic and reproduction artifacts, including bones, skulls, animal jaws, tools, and portable art.

Adults and kids alike enjoy the interactive displays and quizzes, the videoclips of recent discoveries, the various re-enactments and interpretations of early humans’ social behaviours, and marvellous representations of various members of Australopithecus and Homo.

The museum also includes exhibits on Atapuerca, the archaeological site north of Burgos. Here, Europe’s oldest human fossil remains were discovered in 2007. We walked past Atapuerca on our way into Burgos.

Menhirs in a field near Atapeurca in northern Spain
Standing stones near Atapuerca in the Province of Burgos and near the Way

Lucky for us, the museum was almost empty. We were able to spend as much time as we liked in front of the various displays and interactive activities.

Statue of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar

On your way from the museum back to the central plaza in Burgos, you pass a statue of hometown boy Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, better known as El Cid, who was born in Burgos in 1043 and died in 1099.

Statue of El Cid mounted on horseback with sword in Burgos

El Cid was a Castilian knight and warlord who became a Spanish folk hero and national icon as a result of his service in the armies of both Christian and Muslim rulers, and his temporary conquest of Valencia. El Cid is the protagonist in the most significant medieval Spanish epic poem, El Cantar de Mio Cid.

The Cathedral of Burgos

The 13th-century Cathedral of Burgos (#2)—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—is massive, incorporating the church itself, the cloisters, the Bishop’s Palace, and part of the original city walls. The interior has three naves separated by rows of huge columns and flanked by fifteen side chapels containing altars, tombs, relics, and precious artifacts. 

View of Burgos Cathedral in Burgos, Spain
Burgos Cathedral is one of the most important cathedrals in Spain.

Everywhere you look, whether on the facades or inside the cathedral, you’ll see decoration or carving. The term “el horror del vacío” (“the horror of empty space”) was never so applicable as in the interior of Burgos Cathedral.

The magnificent star-vaulted dome and the spectacular rose windows are awe-inspiring. Also amazing are the gold plating and ornate carvings on the retablo of the high altar that depicts the life of the Virgin Mary.

Altar in the Cathedral of Burgos
Altar in the Cathedral of Burgos

Saints, angels, the nobility, important clergy, and the monarchs appear below the deities—a reminder of God’s absolute power.

One of the highlights in the cathedral is a portrait of Mary Magdalene by Leonardo da Vinci (~1515 ). We also saw one of El Cid’s trunks and a small wooden door with a carved face into whose mouth pilgrims inserted small coins.

If you go, rent the audio guide to learn about the art and architecture. The Cathedral of Burgos ranks alongside the likes of Westminster Abbey, Notre Dame in Paris, and Milan Cathedral—but without the crowds.

Burgos Castle

Include a visit to Burgos Castle (#3), with its original structure and fortifications dating to the 9th century. The small museum is interesting, but the real attraction is the spectacular view over the city of Burgos.

Arco de Santa Maria

The Arco de Santa Maria (#4) is one of the twelve medieval doors that led into the medieval city of Burgos. Rebuilt by Charles V in the 16th century, the structure is worth a stop to admire the carvings on the facade. You can go inside to view special exhibitions and a small museum. At night, the Arco de Santa Maria is beautifully illuminated.

View of the Arco de Santa Maria, an ornately carved wall in Burgos, Spain
Arco de Santa Maria in Burgos

Tours in Burgos

Here are some options for tours in Burgos through GetYourGuide:

Powered by GetYourGuide

León

León is a delightful small city that is a bit off the beaten path but worth a visit for its magnificent cathedral, beautiful old town, and the chance to stay in Parador de León, Hostal de San Marcos, Spain’s top parador (see description below).

We stayed two nights in León which, like Burgos, is situated on the Camino. In fact, the Camino crosses the large plaza in front of the parador. The distinctive concha design symbolizing the Camino is everywhere in León, including on the facades of the buildings.

Historic Center of León

The historic centre of León is utterly charming, with narrow streets and very old and historic buildings. Some of the architecture incorporates the city walls of Roman times. You’ll find plenty of small and large plazas lined with outdoor cafés and interesting shops.

Take time to wander around the town, even occasionally getting lost while appreciating the beauty of this wonderfully walkable city.

León Cathedral

Often dubbed La Casa de la Luz (House of Light), the 13th-century Catedral Santa María de León (#5) is magnificent. Soaring sandstone towers glow in the evening light, and the interior is breathtaking, with three rose windows instead of the usual one.

View of the Cathedral of Leon in Spain
Cathedral of León in Spain

The cathedral was built on the site of the 2nd-century Roman baths, which were converted to a royal palace around the year 1000. A masterpiece of Gothic architecture, the cathedral consists of two towers with a large portal between them, and flying buttresses crusted with gargoyles on the exterior walls.

León is often referred to as the city of stained glass, and no wonder. Windows dating from the 13th to the 15th century contain over 1,800 square meters of stained glass. Also inside the cathedral are hundreds of pieces of sacred art, including examples from Romanesque to Neoclassical times.

León’s cathedral is one of the most important along the Way.

Basilica of San Isidro

Don’t miss the smaller but equally enchanting Basilica of San Isidro (#6). Located on the site of an ancient Roman temple, the church’s Christian roots extend to the early 10th century when a monastery for Saint John the Baptist was erected on the grounds.

Basilica of San Isidro, León - Spain
Basilica of San Isidro, León – Spain

Built in the Romanesque style, the basilica also has elements of both Gothic and Islamic architecture. Check out the 12th-century painted murals in the funeral chapel of the kings of León. The exceptionally well-preserved murals present New Testament subjects as well as scenes of contemporary rural life.

Stay at the Parador de León

The Parador de León (#7) is one of the most luxurious places I’ve ever stayed. Sponsored by the Spanish government, the parador system of lodgings includes refurbished historic buildings, such as castles, monasteries, and royal residences. The system also includes some purpose-built, modern hotels.

Parador San Marcos in  León
Parador San Marcos in León

For five-star luxury, we paid about €170 each for two nights—a serious bargain, considering the service and surroundings.

King Ferdinand founded the Parador de León, Hostal de San Marcos in the early 16th century as a church and hospital for knights of the Order of Saint James. Some of the original staircase has been preserved, as have the curved ceilings, chandeliers, and cloister windows. Fabulous portraits and Renaissance artifacts and armour adorn the lobby and corridors.

Our room—which we accessed with a large skeleton key—was located in one of the converted monks’ cells in the cloister. The room was beautifully appointed with 1000-count monogrammed sheets, slippers, and luxury toiletries.

Museum at the Parador

Visit the church and museum attached to the parador. The original buildings were erected on the remains of a Roman fortress, and the church dates from the mid-12th century. Many sarcophagi and Roman stelae from ancient times dot the lovely cloister gardens. Sadly, parts of the church grounds have a darker past when they served as a prison for suspected or accused fighters in the Spanish Civil War.  

Tours in León

Here are some options for tours in León through Tiqets.com:

Conclusion

Even if you’re not walking the Camino, put Burgos and León on your itinerary in northern Spain. For more information about places to visit in northern Spain, including both Santiago de Compostela and Bilbao, see Exploring Northern Spain and Basque Country.

For more about Elizabeth’s journey along the Camino read her Top Tips for Walking the Camino of Santiago and excerpts from her journal in A Camino Journal: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela.

Best Tips for Walking the Camino of Santiago

Everyone I know who has walked the Camino of Santiago (the Way) to Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain raves about the experience.

My friend and guest poster Elizabeth Petrie is no exception. She and her friend, Cheri, walked the Camino from Pamplona to Burgos and from Sarria to Santiago, with train travel between Burgos, León, and Sarria.

Elizabeth shares her experiences and recommendations in three posts on Artsy Traveler. In this post, learn her top tips for enjoying the Camino of Santiago. To find out how Elizabeth and Cheri organized their walk, read A Camino Journal: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela. Elizabeth’s recommendations for Burgos and León are included in Exploring Burgos and León.

Pinterest graphic with the text Top tips for walking the camino of santiago over a picture of a person carrying a backpack and walking along a path on the camino of santiago

Guest Poster Elizabeth Petrie

Retirement brings new opportunities, and one of my most cherished is having the chance to travel. New places, unique experiences, wonderful memories—what could be more enticing? 

For a long time, walking across northern Spain on the Camino has topped my “bucket list.” My friend, Cheri, shared the same interest, so we decided to make plans to walk the Camino together.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago

Here are tips for helping you plan an awesome experience on the Camino of Santiago.

Prepare for the Camino of Santiago

Distance walking was new to me, so I started training about a year before leaving for Spain. Cheri and I began with modest treks of six to eight kilometers twice a week and worked up to walks of ten to twelve kilometers. By the time we left for Spain, we could comfortably walk about fourteen kilometers with our backpacks partially full.

Plan Your Itinerary

The Camino of Santiago extends across several countries and hundreds of kilometers. Start in France on the Camino Francés or complete all or a portion of the Camino del Norte like we did.

We put together an itinerary that included stays in four-star hotels in the cities we’d pass through: Pamplona, Burgos, León, and our final destination, Santiago de Compostela. We knew we’d appreciate a bit of luxury after days of slogging along and nights spent in the dormitory-like albergues.

An albergue is a hostel that provides accommodation only for pilgrims walking the Camino of Santiago. To stay in an albergue, you need to have a Pilgrims Passport.

Obtain a Pilgrims Passport

The Pilgrims Passport contains spaces for the sellos (stamps) that prove you’ve walked that day and are entitled to stay in one of the state-run albergues.

If you start the Camino from St. Jean in France or from Pamplona, like we did, you need to get one stamp per day. If you walk only the last 100 kilometers from Sarria, you need to get two stamps each day.

So long as you have sufficient stamps and you state at the Pilgrims Office in Santiago de Compostela that you’ve completed the Camino for religious or spiritual reasons, you’ll receive the Compostela at the end of the journey in Santiago.

If you state other reasons for completing the Camino, you receive a different certificate to commemorate your journey.

You can also get a passport at some albergues and pilgrims’ offices along the Way.

However, to save time, I recommend you obtain your Pilgrims Passport before you leave. To do so, connect with the Pilgrims’ Association in your home country.

Camino Websites for the UK and the United States

For other organizations, search online for Pilgrims’ Association and the name of your country.

Choose When to Go

Consider walking the Camino in May or September. The weather from June to August is too hot, the hotel prices are higher, and the Way is much more crowded.

We found that May was perfect with regard to both the weather and the crowds (or lack of!). While you definitely won’t run into crowds in the winter months, be aware that many of the smaller albergues are closed from mid-October to mid-April.

Purchase a Guidebook

I recommend A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago (Camino Francés): St. Jean – Roncesvalles – Santiago by John Brierley. The book includes all the information you’ll need: route and town maps, and the location of coffee shops, restaurants, and albergues. The book also lists telephone numbers of the albergues so that you can book ahead.

Plan Your Daily Walk Duration

Plan to walk no more than 15 to 18 kilometers in a day (about five hours), depending on the terrain.

This distance is long enough to give you a reasonable goal, time to stop for sightseeing and meals, and the best chance of finding accommodations. Also, we found that blisters started forming if we attempted to walk more than 22 kilometers in one day.

On most days, we left the albergue around 8 am and arrived at our next albergue in the mid-afternoon. The earlier you get to the albergue you plan to stay in, the better your chances of finding accommodations. Many albergues do not take reservations, although sometimes you can speak with the hospitalero and ask them to call ahead for you.

Book Accommodations for the Final 100 Kilometers

While you do not need to book accommodations along the early stretches of the Way (and often you cannot), you should book places to stay along the last 100 kilometers.

The Way becomes increasingly crowded the closer you get to Santiago. We used booking.com to book small hotels along the last stretch of the Way and were glad we did. Each place we booked was clean and conveniently located.



Booking.com

Walk the Camino of Santiago

Here are some tips for helping you enjoy your time on the Camino.

Use the Send-Ahead Pack Service

Send your main pack ahead and hike with just a day pack. The send-ahead service was well worth the few extra euros (usually €3 to €5 per pack). You can send your pack from any Camino albergue in the morning to the albergue at your next stopping point. Call ahead to make sure the albergue you plan on staying at has available beds and will be open when the van arrives with your pack.

Take a Day Pack

Pack the following items in your day pack:

  • A full first-aid pack, complete with Compeed*and blister treatment, a needle and cotton thread, antibiotic ointment, Band-Aids, antiseptic spray, antihistamines, Afterbite, an elastic bandage, and sunscreen. You’ll find plenty of pharmacies along the Way in case you run out of anything.
  • A liter of water. If you sweat a lot, you will occasionally need to supplement your water with a local version of Gatorade.
  • A change of socks. Sweaty socks can bring on blisters. 
  • A change of shirt and rain gear if rain threatens.
  • Fresh or dried fruit, nuts, protein, etc. Depending on your route for the day, you’ll usually find small coffee bars and restaurants along the Way where you can purchase lunch.
  • Your passport, credit cards, and other essential documents. Also, carry a day’s worth of currency and never flash around large amounts of cash.

*Compeed is a miracle blister treatment available in Spanish farmacias.

I suggest stocking up on Compeed before you leave by buying it online. As soon as you feel a friction blister coming on, put the clear plastic Compeed over it and leave it on. You’ll never have another blister!

Limit Technology

On the Way, consider forgoing technology as much as possible. If you take a SmartPhone to check weather reports and make hotel bookings, particularly in the last 100 kilometers, purchase a cell phone package for Europe from your service provider or pick up a SIM card at a local provider such as Vodafone or Orange.

Use your phone to take pictures instead of carrying a heavy, expensive camera. Also, I suggest not wearing earbuds while you’re walking or you’ll miss the bird song and conversation.

One of my lasting memories on the Way is the sound of an amazing variety of bird songs.

Enjoy the Pilgrim’s Dinner

Have the pilgrim’s dinner when it’s offered at the albergues. You’ll get a cheap and tasty meal that includes soup or salad, a fish or pork entrée, dessert, and a glass of local wine. The local soups are delicious and filling.

Use Other Transportation as Needed

Consider occasionally taking a taxi or public transit when you get tired rather than risking injury. Walking the Camino in short stages will help conserve your energy.

Take Good Footwear

Wear hiking boots that are well broken in. Also, pack a pair of lighter shoes, such as Teva sandals, to occasionally give your feet a rest. Wear flip flops in the shower and around the albergue at the end of the day.

Marker along the Camino of Santiago with a running shoe
Some markers are decorated imaginatively.

Enjoy Meeting New People on the Camino

A highlight of walking the Way is meeting many wonderful and interesting people. People in the albergues and elsewhere along the Camino could not do enough for us. We always left our packs closed, and they were never disturbed, even when we left them in dormitories to go sightseeing. 

Slow Down

My best advice for walking the Camino is to slow down and savor the experience. In other words, stop and smell the roses!

Check out as many churches, shrines, historical sites, and civic plazas as you can. You’ll be amazed at the unexpected beauty and fascinating art and architecture.

Sign on the Santiago of Compostela
Sign on the Camino de Santiago

Northern Spain has been home to human beings for tens of thousands of years, from Neanderthal times to the present. You can hardly take a step without passing a fascinating site of historical significance.

For example, on some sections of the Way, you’ll be following, if not actually walking on, the original Roman roads. And in some of the smaller villages where the Spanish Civil War was fought in the 1930s, you’ll still see bullet holes in the walls of old barns and houses.

Suggested Itinerary

For a detailed breakdown of our itinerary that started in Pamplona, Spain and included stops in Burgos and León,along with a few train journeys, see the post A Camino Journey: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela.

I can’t imagine how our trip could have been any better. We enjoyed pretty much perfect weather, and we both kept well and healthy. In addition, we met interesting people, enjoyed delicious and reasonably-priced meals, and soaked up some of the rich history and culture of Navarra, La Rioja, and Galicia.

We also appreciated the spiritual nature of our journey to Santiago, taking time every day to reflect with humble gratitude upon our many blessings. Our trip was a pilgrimage in many senses of the word.

Do I recommend walking the Camino? Absolutely!

¡Vaya con Dios!

Walking the Way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela: A Camino Journal

Is walking the Camino (walking the way) across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela on your travel wish list?

Artsy Travelers who Walk the Way will view countless treasures, including the portrait of Mary Magdalene by Leonardo da Vinci in Burgos, tiny medieval churches steeped in history, and soaring architectural wonders, such as the cathedral at León.

Elizabeth Petrie, my friend and an Artsy Traveler guest poster, walked the Camino with her friend, Cheri, and shares her experiences and insights.

A promotional image for the Camino de Santiago journal, reading 'Walking the Way: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela' overlaid on a path and stone marker with the scallop shell symbol.

Overview of Walking the Way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela Camino Route

Elizabeth and Cheri walked first from Pamplona to Burgos. After a few days sightseeing in Burgos, they took the train to León and then to Lugos.

From Lugos, they rejoined the Way at Sarria and walked the last 120 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela.

Elizabeth shares her experiences and recommendations in three posts on Artsy Traveler.

A smiling person standing next to a Camino de Santiago marker with a scallop shell symbol, wearing a blue hiking outfit and hat.
Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago

This post includes excerpts from the detailed journal that Elizabeth kept while walking the Way. If you’re interested in walking the Way yourself, read Elizabeth’s recommendations in Top Tips for Walking the Camino to Santiago de Compostela. And for suggestions about what to see and do in beautiful Burgos and León, read Exploring Burgos and León along the Camino of Santiago.

Elizabeth’s lively description of her journey is excerpted from the journal she kept while walking the Way between May 3 and June 1, 2017.

Part 1: Walking the Camino from Pamplona to Burgos

Welcome to Pamplona

The capital of Navarra, Pamplona charms us with its pretty streets, attractive green spaces, and many historical buildings. From our window at the NH Pamplona Hotel, we enjoy a southeast view of a nearby quarry that glows in the evening sun. 

A short stroll along the main boulevard brings us to La Cittadella, an old, star-shaped fortress with huge, thick walls. The fortress is situated in a large park through which the Camino passes.

On the day we start our Camino journey, we’ll only need to walk a short distance from our hotel to pick up the trail.

What to See in Pamplona

The central Plaza del Castillo is an attractive public square surrounded by beautiful old buildings. Pamplona is full of monuments, typical in a country with thousands of years of history. All the statues and monuments are well signed and beautifully maintained.

Especially interesting is the large bronze statue depicting the famous “running of the bulls” (el encierro de toros). The portrayal of some unfortunates being trampled or gored by the bulls looks very realistic.

There’s not enough money in the world to convince me to do it, which is just as well since women typically don’t participate.

Monument depicting the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona, Spain, featuring bronze sculptures of bulls and runners in a dramatic chase scene.
Running of the Bulls Monument in Pamplona, Spain

Walking Tour of Pamplona

Consider taking a free walking tour with Free Walking Tour Pamplona.  You’ll explore the old town and visit the Gothic Cathedral of Santa Maria, the Plaza del Castillo, and the impressive fortifications that once protected the city. There’s a lot to see in Pamplona!

We’re On Our Way!

At the pilgrims’ albergue in front of the Gothic cathedral, we get our first stamp (estampilla) in our pilgrims’ passports (pasaportes de peregrinos).

We have officially begun walking the way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela! 

Day 1: Walking the Way from Pamplona to Puente la Reina: 27 kilometers

After three nights in lovely Pamplona, we’re feeling well rested and ready to begin walking the way on our first stretch of the Camino.

Starting Out

As the sun rises in a clear blue sky, we walk through the beautiful grounds of the Universidad de Navarra and out into lovely rolling countryside. Wild poppies are scattered among fields of newly planted crops. We hear birds singing in the fields and hedgerows.

Hikers hiking along a gravel path surrounded by green fields and trees near Pamplona, Spain, on the Camino de Santiago trail.
Setting off on the Way, west of Pamplona

We stop to get a stamp at a private albergue next to the 12th-century Iglesia de San Miguel. The fortified tower of the church was part of the Monasterio de los Hospitalarios de San Juan de Jerusalén.

The knights of the Hospitallers eventually became the Knights of St. John of Malta from which we get the St. John Ambulance service today. 

Our First Steep Section

The Alto del Perdón—the first steep section we encounter on the trail—is described in our guidebook as “not as difficult as you will have heard” and is estimated to take “only a half-hour”.

Wrong on both counts!

The trail climbs pretty much straight up—the hardest ascent along the whole Camino. Whenever we start feeling weary, we chant “Alto del Perdón, Alto del Perdón! Nothing is as hard as Alto del Perdón” in rhythm with our steps.

Eventually, we make it to the top where the views are spectacular. Both nearby and in the distance we see one of the many wind farms that take advantage of the strong breezes coming from the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Biscay.

Modern metal cut-outs describe the various methods that pilgrims used over the centuries to travel the Camino. One of the inscriptions reads, “where the road of the winds crosses the road of the stars.” 

Silhouette metal sculptures of pilgrims and animals on the summit of Alto del Perdón, Camino de Santiago, with a vast mountainous landscape in the background.
Cut-outs and view at the summit of the Alto del Perdón

Albergue de Santiago Apóstel in Puente la Reina

At our first albergue, we’re assigned two upper bunks (no ladders!) in a four-bunk room. After a hot shower, we enjoy a pilgrim’s dinner of salad, fish, water, and yogurt, all for just €20, including accommodation.

We’re gratified to have virtually no injuries or aches other than a couple of small blisters. I decide to alternate boots with shoes to avoid putting too much pressure on any one spot on my feet. 

The medieval Puente la Reina bridge in Navarre, Spain, reflecting perfectly on the calm waters of the river below.
Bridge leading into Puente la Reina

Day 2: Puente la Reina to Ayeguí: 20 kilometers

The next morning, the owner kindly calls ahead to book beds at the albergue in Ayeguí. He also confirms transportation of our packs for only €5 each. Normally, albergues do not take advance reservations. I wonder whether the fact that I speak Spanish helped!

The second day of walking the way is much easier than the first, even with a few strenuous uphill stretches. (Altos del Perdón, Altos del Perdón…). The countryside continues to amaze us with its many crops, flowers, and birdsong. Small lizards sun themselves on the stone walls that mark the route.

Lorca

We stop for coffee in Lorca, a medieval hill town with a wonderful view of the surrounding valley. The route out of Lorca drops very steeply down what is little more than a slippery, rocky gully. After a few more hours of walking, I feel a blister starting on my heel. We decide to take a taxi the rest of the way to Ayeguí.

I recommend making occasional use of taxis and public transport to save your feet. A small blister can become a large one very quickly and make walking agony.

Day 3: Ayeguí to Torres del Río: 27 kilometers

Our third day walking the way is a long one! We take a break in Irache, where a fountain with a dual spigot offers both water and wine. We fill our water bottles from one and take a sip from the other.

The sign on the fountain reads Pilgrim! If you wish to arrive in Santiago full of strength and vigour, just take a drop of this great wine and jump for joy. Another sign notes We invite you to enjoy in moderation; if you wish to take some wine along, you will have to buy it!

The Camino winds past numerous churches and historical buildings—too many to count and, unfortunately, too many to visit. Many are Romanesque in style, reminding us again of the extent of the Roman Empire at its height. 

Sometimes, we walk at the side of the local highway and at other times on gravel paths dating from ancient times. The Way between Villamayor de Monjardín and Los Arcos typifies the Camino.

It’s a long, narrow road stretching into the distance between open fields, with very little shade and no place to fill our water bottles. 

Los Arcos

Arriving in Los Arcos is a relief for our feet and our thirsty throats. It’s a beautiful old town that has been inhabited since Roman times. The Iglesia de Santa María has a mixture of architectural styles (Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque), and the series of arches along the walls of the original cloisters gives the town its name. 

Los Arcos is a popular stopping point, but we decide to continue another six kilometers to Torres del Río. Hmm…perhaps not the best idea, as it turns out! The weather has warmed considerably, and there’s not a breath of wind. We sing, make lists of places we’d like to go someday, and generally distract ourselves from the trudge. 

A Camino de Santiago marker featuring a yellow scallop shell and arrow, topped with a hiking shoe and wildflowers, set against a green field
Some of the markers along the Way have been decorated by passing pilgrims

Finally, we arrive at the delightful little town of Sansol and take a taxi to Albergue La Pata de Oca at Torres del Río. What a treat! The main building is hundreds of years old, with thick stone walls and solid beams in the ceilings, all covered with plaster.

Our private room is upstairs under the rafters. The ceiling slopes so much that we have to stoop to open the window. The patio is lovely, with lots of flower pots filled with bright red geraniums.

We enjoy a delicious dinner of bean and chorizo soup, chicken, flan, and wine. After a long, hot day, we collapse into bed about 9:15.

Day 4: Torres del Río to Ventosa: 4 kilometers

We decide to take it easy after yesterday’s long walk and opt for a later start and a shorter walk with a taxi ride in between.

While relaxing over breakfast on the terrace, we meet Ian from Ireland. He tells us that he’s a former addict who has been clean for 26 years and has adopted his nephews (one of whom is on the autism spectrum) after the death of their parents.

Encounters with people like Ian and others from all over the world and with a variety of backgrounds is one of the most enjoyable aspects of our journey.

Before starting our walk, we visit the Romanesque Church of the Holy Sepulchre across the street from the albergue. Dating from the 12th century, the small, octagon-shaped church was founded by the Knights Templar during the time of the Crusades.

The dome’s ribbing forms the outline of an eight-sided star, typical of Moorish Spain. The 13th-century crucifix depicts Christ’s feet separately rather than crossed one over the other as is typical.

Day 5: Logroño to Ventosa: 21 kilometers

We stop for lunch in Navarrete, an attractive hill town with narrow cobblestoned streets leading to the town plaza. A small church–La Iglesia de la Asunción–doesn’t look particularly special from the outside. We almost don’t go in. Luckily, we did and found one of the most amazing Baroque retablos (altarpieces) in all of Spain. 

Our albergue in the tiny village of Ventosa has a typical set-up, with ten bunks to the room, plenty of hot water and many modern conveniences. Again, our pilgrims’ meal is delicious and very reasonably priced. For €10, we dine on paella with chorizo along with salad and a beer.

Day 6: Ventosa to Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada: 5 kilometers

Cheri’s blister and ankle are acting up, so we take a taxi and then a local bus to Santo Domingo where we stop for the night.

A rooster motif is everywhere in Santo Domingo, reflecting the legend of how a young man had been wrongly accused and executed for theft.

One version recounts that his parents had seen a vision of St. Dominic holding their son up alive. When they rushed to the magistrate to report this miracle, the judge laughed and said that the boy was as dead as the rooster and chicken on his plate. At that, the birds came alive and fluttered about the room, thereby “proving” that the young man was innocent.

To this day, a pen inside the cathedral holds a rooster and a hen (different ones every two weeks). It’s a sign of good luck if you hear the rooster crow.

Day 7: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado: 21 kilometers

On a day of mixed sun and cloud, we pass through the town of Viloria de Rioja, the birthplace of St. Dominic and from there into the province of Castilla y León. 

At the albergue in the evening, we enjoy our €10 pilgrims’ dinner of two courses and wine and chat with Marcelo from Argentina and David from San Sebastián. Our pleasant conversation covers everything from politics, to films, to the various people we’ve met on the Way, to our common love of travel and adventure.

Day 8: Belorado to Cardeñuelo Río Pico: 9 kilometers

We carry our big packs today and find that after more than a week of walking the way on the Camino, we’re getting stronger.

The Albergue Santa Fe in Cardiñuela where we stop for the night has just one double room left, complete with a private bath, towels, soap and shower gel, and a television. With the pilgrims’ dinner included, the cost is about €55 each—another example of the excellent travel bargains to be found on the Camino.

Day 9: Cardeñuela Río Pico to Burgos: 17 kilometers

A strong, cool breeze in the morning makes for good walking weather. As we approach Burgos, we pass through several prosperous-looking neighbourhoods which likely are bedroom communities of the city itself. 

The Camino enters Burgos via a pretty walk along the river. When we finally reach the center of town, we take a taxi to the AC Hotel which is perfectly situated about two blocks from the central plaza and the cathedral.

We enjoy tapas at one of the outdoor cafés in the colonnaded central plaza.

Part Two: Walking the Way from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela

Days 10 to 14: For the next several days, Elizabeth and Cheri tour Burgos and then León. Read Elizabeth’s suggestions about what to see there in the post Exploring Burgos and León.

Day 15: Samos to Sarria: 21 kilometers

After several days exploring Burgos, León , and Lugos (see Exploring Burgos and León ), we take the train to Sarria, drop off our packs at the albergue La Casona de Sarria and then take a taxi to Samos to explore the Benedictine Monastery.

Wow! The Benedictine monastery at Samos is stunning, with some sections dating back to the 6th century.

Currently, only eight monks and two novices are in residence, with some of the original monks’ cells now serving as simple accommodations for people participating in organized religious retreats.

Benedictine Monastery of San Julián de Samos in Galicia, Spain, surrounded by lush greenery and a reflective stream under a cloudy sky.
Benedictine monastery of San Julian de Samos located in Samos, Lugo, Galicia

The interior cloister at the monastery is the largest in Spain, and some of the walls display original frescoes.

Back on the Camino: Samos to Sarria

After a quick lunch, we resume walking after our days off for sightseeing in Burgos, León , and Lugo. We set off back to Sarria, a walk of about twelve kilometers and one of the most beautiful stages of our journey.

The route starts behind the monastery, winds past the kitchen gardens and along cool shaded paths alongside a small river, with some ascents and some descents but few signs of modern habitation. We pass a couple of 12th-century wayside chapels, small abandoned houses, wooden bridges, and old slate drystone walls.

You can almost imagine yourself a thousand miles from any center of population and thousands of years back in time.

One farmer is repairing his drystone slate wall and lets us fill our water bottles from his well. We stop a bit farther on for a cold drink in a typical taberna do Camino.

Day 16: Sarria to Portomarín: 24 kilometers

We start our day by crossing the old Roman bridge just down from the albergue. The stela marker informs us that we are 113 kilometers from Santiago.

At this point of our walk, we’re encountering many more people on the Camino, particularly Europeans taking a week to do the minimum journey (100 kilometers).

To receive the completion compostela in Santiago, pilgrims must present their passports bearing at least two stamps per day for the final 100 kilometers.

As we’ve come to expect, the countryside is absolutely beautiful, with rolling hills, manageable ascents, and plenty of lush vegetation providing shade in the increasingly hot weather.

This region is quite well watered by rain, and there are lots more dairy cattle and other livestock grazing in green pastures. 

Scenic view of the San Estevo water reservoir near Portomarín, Galicia, Spain, with a vibrant green valley, river, and rolling hills under a cloud-streaked sky.
Countryside along the Way in Galicia

At one short rest stop, we listen to a piper in Galician dress—a reminder of the strong Celtic influence in this part of Spain. Much of the day’s route follows the old Roman road, with some of the original Roman stone walls still marking out different pastures. 

A very old church marks the beginning of the final 100 kilometers to Santiago.  

Day 17: Portomarín to Palas de Rei: 26 kilometers

Today’s route includes ups and downs through rolling and beautiful countryside. We’re starting to become blasé about the medieval churches. Ho hum, 14th century.

We find a fair bit of traffic along the Camino and several small tour groups.

Part of the Camino passes through thick stands of eucalyptus trees, originally imported from Australia. The scent of the leaves that have fallen to the ground and crushed by passing feet is delightful. 

Day 18: Palas de Rei to Melide to Arzúa: 17 kilometers

Despite the heat, we enjoy a good night’s sleep followed by an excellent breakfast.

In a small chapel along the route, I’m fascinated by a poster of a stunning Madonna and Child (Mater Divinae Providentiae) painted by Scipione Pulzone da Gaeta in the mid-16th century.

I’ve never seen a Madonna which so tenderly expresses the love of mother for child. How different from the usual dreamy, remote images of Mary and the baby Jesus. This one is all about maternal love and one of the loveliest I’ve ever seen. I’ve never heard of this artist, and I plan to learn more about him.

The Camino from Melide to Arzúa is not a difficult stage, but it does have ascents and descents virtually the entire way. Fortunately, the many groves of fragrant conifers and eucalyptus trees along the path are very pleasant and make the steeper inclines much more manageable.

The official markers remind us that we’re getting closer to our final destination. 

Later this afternoon, I suffer the only mishap of the entire trip when I stumble into a patch of nettles. Ouch! But Cheri quickly pulls out the antihistamine tablets and After Bite lotion, and, almost immediately, the rash subsides and the itch disappears.

Day 19: Arzúa to Pedrouzo: 22 kilometers

Our water and energy drinks at the ready, we set off early before the heat sets in and make pretty good time, even on the up and down stretches. The crowds are certainly growing. 

At one stop, we purchase coffee, bananas, and small concha patches sold on the honor system/por donativo. Next to the building is a “wall of wisdom” (muro de la sabiduría) containing interesting quotes and reflections on travel.

I’m sure the quotes keep conversation going among the pilgrims as they near the end of a long journey. 

An interesting feature of the places we pass are the corn cribs—large covered storage areas on stilts. The walls are perforated to allow air circulation but not rodents, and their height prevents livestock from investigating too closely and knocking them over.

Day 20: Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela: 22 kilometers

Our last day of walking the Camino!

We’re up and away before sunrise on what promises to be another warm day. The crowds have become thick, and we sometimes have to jostle for room to manoeuvre around groups. 

Approaching Santiago de Compostela, the Camino skirts the northern end of the airport, which is clean and modern. We encounter a couple more steep spots, and then, suddenly, we’ve reached the official city limits of Santiago.

To enter the city proper, we cross a rickety plank footbridge into a semi-residential area and up into the original medieval town. We descend a flight of stairs, walk through a large portal set into very thick stone walls, and enter the central plaza of Santiago de Compostela.

The scaffold-covered cathedral looms into the rapidly clouding sky. We’ve made it!

We head to the new tourist center to get our official completion credential. There’s a long queue, and for a while we wait outside in the patio area.

Almost immediately after we enter the building, a big thunderstorm breaks, rain teeming down on the poor folks still out walking on the Camino or waiting outside to get their final stamp.

Arrival in Santiago de Compostela

We celebrate our achievement with an empanada and beer in the restaurant of the Santiago Parador—a former hospital founded by Ferdinand and Isabella in the 1490s.

We enjoy a deep, restful sleep, despite the thunderstorms. By mid-morning, the weather has cleared, and we return to the cathedral and tour the adjacent museum, timing it so that we can enter the cathedral itself from the cloister.

Visit to the Cathedral of Santiago

The entrance to the cathedral closes at 11:45 in preparation for the Pilgrims’ Mass, and by 11:15, it’s already filling up. We snag a spot on a small ledge at the base of one of the huge pillars near the back and have a reasonably good view. 

Facade of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, Spain, showing intricate Baroque architecture and two towering spires against a deep blue sky
The Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela

The service starts, and the nun leading the chants and responses has the most glorious voice. We recognize many of the service prayers, even though they are in Spanish: the collect, the Lord’s Prayer, the reading from the Old and New Testaments (Corinthians and John), the general confession, and so on.  

The highlight of the service, and the reason that many people are there, is the swinging of the enormous censer across the transept.

At least five or six deacons or lay brothers manoeuvre it into place and set it swinging, and the sweep of its pendulum action gets higher and higher. Ropes and pulleys are affixed to the ceiling, and the angle of the swing is maybe 120° or more. 

After the service, people line up behind the main altar to hug a plaster statue of St. James. Meanwhile, there are practically no people lined up to descend to the crypt to see St. James’ ossuary, an amazing chest of embossed silver.

If the bones of the saint are really contained within, it’s interesting to think that here was someone who actually knew Christ. 

Back at the hotel after a bit of shopping, we calculate the distance we’ve walked. From our first day of walking on May 6 to our final day in Santiago de Compostela on May 26, we logged 338 kilometers!

Conclusion

Would I do the Camino again? Absolutely! Do I recommend it to anyone who is reasonably fit and looking for an adventure? Of course!

Something magical happens when you slow down to tread in the footsteps of the thousands of pilgrims who have walked the Way.

You hear birdsong, feel the sun warm your face, view stunning landscapes steeped in history, enjoy wonderful food, and meet people from all over the world.

The Camino beckoned and I’m very glad I followed.

For more on the Camino, read Elizabeth’s recommendations in Top Tips for Walking the Camino to Santiago de Compostela. And for suggestions about what to see and do in beautiful Burgos and León, read Exploring Burgos and León along the Camino of Santiago.

Recommended Places to Stay in France That Will Make You Want to Return

You’re in luck when it comes to finding great places to stay in France.

In fact, some of our most memorable stays in Europe have been in family-run, country-style hotels in France.

In this post, I provide general tips about accommodations in France and then list hotels I recommend.

Pinterest graphic with the text Recommended Places to stay in France that will make you want to return over a blue facade of a hotel in france.

Top Five Hotels at a Glance

Here are my five favorite recommended hotels in France:

Choosing a Room

To Book or Not to Book?

I favor a combination approach to booking hotels in France. Generally, I book most of the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home, and then while traveling, I make adjustments as needed.

I like the security of knowing that I have a place to stay, but I also take advantage of cancellation options to ensure I can always change my mind.

To stay flexible, choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book, change, or cancel hotel reservations if your itinerary changes. Most sites offer a no-cancellation option at a lower price. I favor booking.com and Expedia for hotels and VRBO for long-term stays.

TIP: Stay flexible when you travel. You never know when you might meet someone who recommends a festival or event or exhibition. More than once, I’ve altered an itinerary to attend a special exhibition or visit a new attraction.

I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel. For example, I will select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from because I know those locations won’t change.

Breakfasts in French Hotels

Breakfasts in France are generally of the continental variety and include croissants (both regular and chocolate-filled), fresh baguettes with wonderful butter and lots of jams and marmalades, and coffee.

You may also find fresh fruit, dry cereal, cold meats, and cheeses. In large hotels, cooked options may be available.

In my experience, most breakfasts in small country hotels in France are continental breakfasts that are either included in the room price or are generally not too expensive.

If hotel breakfasts cost too much extra, I buy yogurt and fruit at a local grocery store and then go to a bar or café for my morning café au lait.

In France, I favor hotels on the outskirts of cities or in the countryside if I’m driving. I check the map showing the location of hotels and choose one that is outside town walls but within walking distance of the center of town.

I don’t recommend driving into Paris. We’ve done so several times, and it’s challenging, to say the least!

View of a traffic jam in Paris with the Arc de Triomphe in the center
Traffic in Paris–not for the faint of heart!

Star Rating

I favor three- or four-star properties in France that offer amenities such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, pools, and WIFI.

I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters is too small for two people with luggage. I do my best to book rooms that are at least 20 square meters.

Reviews – Should You Care?

I recommend that you pay attention to reviews. If a property’s aggregate review is under 8.0 out of a possible 10, consider taking a pass. Sometimes, the difference between a property with a 9.6 review and one with an 8.2 review is only a few euros, and yet the quality of the higher-rated property makes the extra money worth spending.

You have to take reviews with a grain of salt, however. Just because a property has a score of 9.8 doesn’t meant it’s five-star luxury. A 9.8 score for a two-star hotel is not the same as a 9.8 for a four-star.

TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in France and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.

For more tips on finding accommodations, read Six Steps to Making Awesome Accommodation Choices in Europe.

Accommodation Options by Region in France

For each destination, I describe properties I’ve stayed in. Click the link to the hotel to make a reservation with booking.com.

Places to Stay in Paris

When you’re in Paris, you won’t want to stay outside the périphérique in what are pretty dull suburban areas. The périphérique is the multi-lane ring road that circles Paris. Mammoth traffic jams are not uncommon on the périphérique –I’ve experienced a few!

To avoid driving into Paris, I’ve occasionally stayed at a hotel near one of the portes on the périphérique. However, I don’t recommend doing so. The surrounding area can be quite dreary, and you’ll need to take a long Metro ride into the center.

If you’re driving, consider organizing your trip so that you either start or end in Paris. That way, you can be car-free in the city and stay at a place in an interesting and central area, such as the Marais or my favorites, the fifth, sixth, and fourteenth arrondisements on the Left Bank.

I visit Paris frequently and usually stay in apartments or hotels on the Left Bank. The Montparnasse area in the fourteenth arrondisement is far enough from the tourist crowds and the throat-tightening prices of Saint Germain but still within walking distance, or a short Metro ride, of the Seine. 

Montparnasse these days isn’t the bohemian, majorly hip place it was between the World Wars when everyone who was anyone—from Hemingway to Picasso to the newly formed surrealist group— hung out there.

However, it still has plenty of good restaurants (La Coupole, Le Dôme) with appropriately snooty waiters (I adore watching Parisian waiters work!) and amazing seafood. 

Here are my accommodation picks for Paris, all of which I’ve stayed in.

Hôtel de L’Université on the Left Bank near Saint-Germain-des-Prés is lovely with spacious rooms and an awesome location just blocks from the Seine and the hip part of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. I will definitely stay there again.

Hôtel A La Villa des Artistes is the first hotel I stayed in with my family. Located in Montparnasse on the same street as the Hôtel Le Chaplain and close to the Vavin Metro, the hotel is also a short walk to the Luxembourg Gardens where our daughter spent many happy hours in a smartly designed playground.

Hôtel Le Clos Médicis has a great location about a block from the Luxembourg Gardens near the Boulevard Saint Michel. The rooms are pricey and a bit small, but very well-appointed and comfortable.

Citadines Saint-Germain-des-Prés Paris is a surprisingly reasonable option considering the size of the room, which includes a small kitchen. The location is perfect–right on the Seine in the 6th arrondisement.

Medici Fountain in the Luxembourg Gardens in Paris
Medici fountain in the Luxembourg Garden near the Hôtel Le Clos Médici

I’ve stayed in a few more hotels that don’t warrant a recommendation. Paris has its share of overpriced and underwhelming places. Take your time finding a place and be aware that you may need to adjust your budget upwards to get a comfortable room in a good location.

As mentioned, I usually stay in apartments. Good options are available on VRBO and booking.com.

Search for more hotels in Paris.

Places to Stay in Normandy

I recommend basing yourself in Honfleur and from there exploring the World War II beaches at Normandy, the charming town of Bayeux with its historic tapestry, and the soaring cliffs of Étretat.

Honfleur has several good choices, including the Hotel L’Ecrin where I stayed. The hotel includes free parking and is within easy walking distance of the Vieux Bassin.

For information about what to see in Normandy, see Top Normandy Sites for Art & History Lovers.

Places to Stay in Brittany

We love traveling in Brittany! Over the years, we’ve visited a few times and have always found excellent, country-style accommodations.

Here are three hotels that I’m happy to recommend:

Trébeurden and Trégastel on the Côte de Granit Rose

Both Trébeurden and Trégastel are great choices if you want to spend time exploring the gorgeous Côte de granit rose (Pink Granite Coast). Both of these hotels are excellent options:

Trébeurden: Hôtel Le Toeno offers simple and comfortable accommodation with terraces that overlook the ocean.

Trégastel: Le Beauséjour also features sea views in addition to an excellent restaurant. Our room had a very fancy spa bath with more jet settings than I’ve ever seen.

View of the Côte de Granit Rose near  Trégastel in Brittany
View of the Côte de Granit Rose near Trégastel in Brittany

Pont Aven

Spend some time in lovely little Pont Aven where Gauguin was inspired to paint some of his most memorable works.

We stayed at Le Domain de Pont Aven Art Gallery Resort–quite a posh place that was worth the cost. Set in beautiful grounds and within walking distance of Pont Aven, the resort is a good choice for a splurge.

Places to Stay in Provence and the Côte d’Azur

Provence and the stunning Côte d’Azur are, hands down, my favorite areas of France. Well, why not? Provence has it all–fields of lavender and sunflowers under brittle blue skies, swims in the warm Mediterranean, excellent meals enjoyed al fresco, and that special light that has inspired artists for centuries.

Pretty much every time we’ve traveled to Europe in the past several years, we’ve squeezed in at least a few days in the south of France.

Here, I’ll describe some of the places we’ve stayed in Provence. Areas include van Gogh country around Les Baux-des-Provence on the western edge of Provence, the charming towns of Roussillon and Gordes in the Luberon area, the relatively undiscovered Var region, and finally, the fabled Côte d’Azur.

Les Baux-des-Provence in Van Gogh Country

By van Gogh country, I mean Arles and the surrounding areas where Vincent van Gogh painted during the few years he lived in the region. Because I always have a car in Provence, I book places in the countryside in this area rather than within the Arles city limits or in difficult-to-navigate Les Baux-des-Provence.

Panorama of Les Baux-de-Provence in southern France
Les Baux-des-Provence is close to both recommended properties

But if you’re not driving, find a hotel in Arles so you can enjoy wandering this delightful city in the warm, Provençal evening.

Here are two places I highly recommend, both in the countryside near Les Baux-des-Provence:

Du Côté Des Olivades is outside the small town of Paradou, but it’s in the vicinity of Les Baux-des-Provence. This place is Provence with a capital P, with plenty of 4-star luxury and a gorgeous country setting. I walked from here to nearby Paradou to enjoy one of my favorite meals in Provence (which is saying something!).

On my most recent trip to the area, I stayed in Domaine du Mas Foucray in a rural setting near the small town of Maussane-les-Alpilles and within sight of Les-Baux-de-Provence. Billed as an aparthotel, the one-bedroom suites include a kitchen and sitting area and a private terrace. In early July when I was there, I picked fresh apricots off the trees.

I took this video on the grounds of the property. If you’re looking for a relaxing, Provençal experience without the hefty price tag of some of the properties in the area, then you can’t go wrong with the Domaine du Mas Foucray.

Domaine du Mas Foucray near Les Baux-de-Provence

Luberon Area (Vaucluse)

On one of my first family trips to Europe when my daughter was nine years old, I rented a house for two weeks in the hill town of Saignon, located near Apt in the Vaucluse region of the Luberon.

With lavender season in full swing and beautiful vistas everywhere I looked, not to mention warm summer days and lots to see, I fell in love with the area.

Village of Saignon in Provence with lavender field in the foreground
Saignon in the Luberon in Provence

Pick one of the gorgeous little towns and settle in for as many days as you can manage. We’ve home-based in Bonnieux, Roussillon, and Gordes. Other good options are Menerbes (where A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle is set), Lacoste, and tiny Saignon with its ruined fortress and sweeping views.

One of our favorite family-run, country-style hotels is Les Sables d’Ocre in Roussillon. The place is also one of the two French properties I include in 10 Family-Run Hotels in Europe I Recommend.

Here are two highly recommended hotels in the Luberon, one in Roussillon and one in Gordes.

Les Sables d’Ocre – A 15-minute walk from the village of Roussillon, this place sets the bar for what a country-style, family-run, low-key, easy-on-the-budget place should be. Book one of the rooms that includes a terrace. You’ll have your own private outdoor space and be steps from the pool.

Domain de l’Enclos – This place close to Gordes–one of the most beautiful hill towns in the area–is wonderful. I snagged a room with a terrace which Gregg made use of to do some drawing. The views from the garden over the Luberon are spectacular.

Gregg Simpson drawing on the terrace of a hotel in Provence, France
Gregg drawing on the terrace at the Domaine de l’Enclos near Gordes, Provence

The Var

If you’re driving from Aix-en-Provence to the Côte d’Azur, you pass through the spectacular–and relatively undiscovered–region of the Var. We’ve stayed in the Var a few times while Gregg had exhibitions at the gorgeous little village of Seillans, a hill town not far from Fayence, one of the principal towns in the area.

Here are two recommended properties in the area around Seillans.

Hôtel Restaurant des Deux Rocs – Situated at the edge of Seillans and including a lovely restaurant with a terrace overlooking the view, this place is a great choice if you want to stay in the village of Seillans.

La Bastide de Negrin – This place is a good example of a typical small bed and breakfast in the area, with comfortable rooms and of course, a pool.

Each of the four rooms is named after a different artist: Matisse, Picasso, Renoir, and Cezanne.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence and Vence

This area of the Côte d’Azur is one of our favorites, particularly the town of Vence. You’ll find plenty of gorgeous properties in the area. Here are three that we’ve stayed in.

La Petite Maison: This two-story apartment has a spectacular view over Saint-Paul-de-Vence and the Mediterranean beyond. You are also within easy walking distance of the village.

Village of Saint Paul-de-Vence from the terrace of Le Petite Maison in the south of France
Gregg surveying Saint Paul-de-Vence from the terrace of Le Petite Maison

Hôtel Marc Hély: I enjoyed a room with a view over Saint Paul-de-Vence and a tasty breakfast in the courtyard. This is a great choice in La Colle-sur-Loup, which is about a ten-minute drive from the Fondation Maeght.

View of Saint Paul de Vence and a valley in the south of France
Wine on the balcony at the Hôtel Marc-Hély

Miramar: This hotel is in Vence, which is just up the hill from Saint-Paul-de-Vence and a larger town with more services.

FYI, I had the best pizza in an outdoor café in the Old Town of Vence! The Miramar is a reasonably-priced and well-located property that is great for drivers.

Search other hotels in Vence.

Search other hotels in Saint-Paul-de-Vence.

Monte Carlo and the Côte d’Azur

Port Palace Hotel in Monte Carlo – On a recent trip to the Riviera, I arrived at the house I’d rented for three days high above Monte Carlo to find no one there.

A quick call to the agency we’d rented the place from confirmed that our reservation had never been confirmed, despite emails to the contrary. What to do? Fortunately, the agency responded to our predicament by booking us into the Port Palace Hotel right on the harbor in Monte Carlo.

The first night was comped, but I loved the place so much that I stayed for another two nights.

Although a bit on the pricey side, the massive room and the harbor view along with fabulous breakfasts and really friendly staff made our stay at the Port Palace once of our most memorable in France.

Hôtel de l’Esterel in Agay overlooking the Mediterranean and not far from Saint Raphael is located right smack in the middle of a Pierre-en-Vacances, otherwise known as a holiday village.

The room overlooked one of the largest hotel pools I’ve ever seen. The holiday village was hopping with French families and included several restaurants, a row of shops, and numerous activities.

Swimming pools at a holiday village in the south of France overlooking the Mediterranean
Massive pools at the Holiday Village where the Hôtel de l’Esterel is located

Places to Stay in Dordogne and Languedoc

Like Provence, both Languedoc and the Dordogne have many gorgeous properties set in idyllic countryside. Here are two in the Dordogne and one in Albi in Languedoc that we’ve stayed in and recommend.

Château le Tour is a fabulous choice in the middle of the countryside east of Bergerac and near the tiny village of Faux.

I stayed for several days and enjoyed evening meals served outside to all the guests, swims in the infinity pool, and lots of lounging around the grounds. If you want a country experience in the Dordogne and you’re touring France by car, you can’t go wrong at this place.

Chateau de Tour in the Dordogne region of France
Château de Tour in the Dordogne region of France

The tel Archambeau in the tiny village of Thonac not far from Montignac is another great country-style choice. Take a walk around the village and out into the bucolic countryside.

We recently visited Albi in Languedoc for the first time and were very much taken with it. La Cabane Albigeoise is a self-contained, two-floor minihouse located in a large garden above the river and right across from the iconic Albi Cathedral. Here’s the view from the terrace.

View of Albi Cathedral for La Cabane Albigeoise
View of Albi Cathedral from La Cabane Albigeoise

Conclusion

Do you have recommendations for great places to stay in France? Please share your experience with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments section below.

Once you’ve secured your accommodations, check out what there is to see in the places your visiting. Here are some posts to help you choose:

Discover Lyon–Friendly, Vibrant & Very French

Discover the hidden gems of Lyon, France’s third-largest city and the center of gastronomy in France.

A few years ago, guest poster Liz Reding moved with her husband Michael to France and settled in the charming city of Lyon.

Liz shares tips for exploring and enjoying her adopted city.

Pinterest graphic with the text Discover Lyon: Friendly, Vibrant & Very French over a view of Lyon from the river

By Liz Reding

When you travel, do you enjoy seeing and doing things that are a little off the beaten path? I know I do! Mind you, I think going to a grocery store in a foreign country is fun.  

In this post, I’ll introduce you to my new hometown–the beautiful and vibrant city of Lyon.

Guest Poster Liz Reding raising a glass of wine at a dinner in France.
Guest Poster Liz Reding

Map of Lyon

The map below shows the location of the sights covered in this post. Because Lyon is relatively small, you can walk everywhere. And when you tire of walking, the public transportation system will get you where you want to go in a flash. It’s cheap, easy to use, clean, modern, and fast!

This map was made with Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android

Lyon Overview

In Lyon, you won’t experience the manic hustle and tourist hordes of larger European cities, such as Paris, Berlin, and London. You will find friendly people, a truly French environment, and a lively cultural scene. 

You’ll also find many opportunities for artsy travel in Lyon–from opera performances and fine arts museums to boulangeries and foodie experiences.

View of the Saone River and city of Lyon at sunrise
Lyon just before sunrise Photo: Liz Reding

With a population of 1.7 million, Lyon is a manageable city about the same size as Copenhagen, Munich, and Vienna. It’s one third the size of Barcelona and one quarter that of Madrid. 

A UNESCO World Heritage City, Lyon has a rich and varied history and cultural heritage. It was the capital of the Gauls in Roman times, an integral part of the 17th-century silk trade, a pivotal center of French Resistance during World War II, and is now a leader in the development and production of pharmaceuticals. 

I’ve divided my guide to discovering Lyon into three sections: Touring Lyon, Visiting Museums and Churches, and Exploring Lyon’s Food Culture.

Touring Lyon

Lyon City Card

Like most European cities, Lyon offers a tourist card that gives you access to most of its museums and all of its transit system. To purchase your Lyon City Card, visit the Lyon Visitor Center at one of its many locations (including Place Bellecour) or purchase it online at Tiqets.com. Durations from one to four days are available.

The Lyon City Card offers free access to the public transportation system and free/discounted admission to 23 museums. You can enter an included attraction once per purchased card. 

When using your Lyon City Card, be mindful of what days you’ll be using it. Many museums are closed on Monday. It would be a shame to lose one whole museum use day if your card includes a Monday.  

For more information and a complete list of attractions, check the Lyon City Card website.

View of the old town of Lyon from the river
View of Lyon from the Saône River

Lyon Sightseeing Cruise

The Lyon Sightseeing Cruise along the the Saône (rhymes with cone) River is a perfect afternoon/evening activity when you’ve walked your feet off and need some rest and relaxation. Enjoy watching the city of Lyon drift by while listening to the interesting narrative provided by the guide. 

Every time I take one of these cruises, I learn something new. If you’re lucky and the weather is fine, you’ll be able to sit on the open top deck and take in some rays along with the sights. 

The river cruise is free with the Lyon City Card or €13 per person without the card.

View of the river and a sightseeing boat in Lyon, France.
Lyon Sightseeing River Cruise – included with the Lyon City Card Photo: Tiqets.com

For more information and schedules, check out Sightseeing Cruises with Les Bateaux Lyonnais (#1 on the map above).

City Tram Tour

This motorized tour takes you to the Croix-Rousse area (#2) and shows you many fascinating features of this city-within-a-city in Lyon.

The open-sided tram trundles through the village-like streets of an area that was once the silk workers’ district and is now famous for its boho atmosphere, markets, and wall murals (more on the murals later!).

Unlike the rest of the city, Croix-Rousse is located on top of a hill. You can access Croix-Rousse by foot, Metro, or bus. However, taking the funicular is the most fun. If you haven’t ridden one, you really must!

The tram tour is free with the Lyon City Card or €9 per person without the card. Find out more and book your tour at the Lyon City Tram website.

Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon)

The old town of Lyon (#3) is quaint, charming, and full of mysteries and calories. Vieux Lyon is the one of the most extensive Renaissance neighborhoods in Europe, with three distinct sections: Saint Jean, Saint Paul and Saint Georges.

Stroll along charming, narrow cobblestone streets and through the traboules–covered passageways–that are a fascinating historical feature of this area. Have a look at the Gothic-style Saint Jean Cathedral.

Better yet, take a guided walking tour of Vieux Lyon. This two-hour tour in English includes lively narration about the history and culture of Lyon, the history of silk production, the French Resistance during World War II, and Lyon food culture.

Check the Free Tour Lyon website for tour times and more details. The tour starts at 10 am at Place Saint-Jean and runs on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Book ahead or just show up.

Visiting Churches and Museums

La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière

How can you not be awed by this building and the view of Lyon from the overlook? La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière (#4) is one of Lyon’s principal landmarks, visible from almost everywhere in the city. 

The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière dominates the skyline of Lyon
The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière dominates the skyline of Lyon.

Built between 1872 and 1884 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière is a relatively modern structure. The annual Fête de Lumières (Festival of Lights), held in early December, is Lyon’s way of thanking the Virgin for saving the city from the bubonic plague that swept through Europe in 1643. 

Highlights of your visit to Fourvière include:

  • Discovery Visit: Every day from April to November, take a free, 30-minute guided tour of the Basilica; it’s offered in several languages. Check the website for tour times.
  • Theme Visit: Every Saturday at 2:30 pm, choose one of ten free theme visits to learn about various aspects of the Basilica including its Byzantine and Art Nouveau-inspired mosaics, stained glass, and the altarpieces.
  • Rooftop Visit: Go behind the scenes of the basilica and take a walk on the roof. The guided Rooftop Tour is free with the Lyon City Card or €10 without the card. Pre-booking is recommended. Check the website for dates and times.
  • Garden Walk: The beautifully landscaped Rosary Gardens include 1,400 meters of pathways.
  • View over Lyon: Enjoy the stunning view over Lyon.
Interior of La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière in Lyon showing the frescoed ceiling
Interior of La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière in Lyon

To visit the Basilica, take the Fourvière funicular to Vieux Lyon Saint Jean station. Find information about opening times on the website.

Museum of Confluences 

This giant of a building is worth seeing, even if you don’t go in: it’s that dynamic and eye-catching.

The Musée des Confluences (#5) includes a world-class collection of over two million objects from the fields of paleontology, mineralogy, entomology, ethnology, Egyptology, and technology and is divided into three areas: natural sciences, human sciences, and science and technology. 

 Musée des Confluences in Lyon
Musée des Confluences in Lyon is a must-see. Photo: Liz Reding

The museum is named both for its location at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône Rivers and for its explorations of the confluences between cultures, animals, and technology. 

This monument to modern architecture is a must-see in Lyon. Its detailed and fascinating exhibits are creatively curated. Set aside several hours to explore the many galleries.

Exterior View Photo: Tiqets.com
Gallery of animals Photo: Tiqets.com

The museum is free with the Lyon City Card or €9 per person without the card. Another option is to buy Skip-the-Line tickets in advance.

If you’d prefer to simply enjoy a magnificent view of the rivers and Lyon, you can access the observation deck free of charge.

My husband and I sometimes go into the building just to marvel at the structure. The museum looks completely different depending on your vantage point.

Take Tram T1 to Musée des Confluences. The museum is open Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday from 11 am to 7 pm, Thursday from 11 am to 10 pm, and Saturday, Sunday and public holidays from 10 am to 7 pm. For more information about special exhibitions, visit the museum’s website.

Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation

This sobering, reflective, and reverent collection is one example of how Lyon commemorates its role in the deportation of enemies of the state during World War II. 

The Centre d’histoire de la résistance et de la déportation (#6) is my favorite museum in Lyon. I love its artifacts and how they are presented.

Nearly every time I visit this museum, I encounter a group of students learning about this important time in their city’s history. I’m always struck by the attention they pay and the respect they show while listening to the guide explain the exhibits.

Admission is free with the Lyon City Card or €6 per person without the card.

Display at the Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation Photo: Liz Reding

The Centre is open Wednesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm. Take Tram T2 to Centre Berthelot stop or Metro Line B to Station Jean Macé. Find more information about special exhibitions on the museum’s website.

Musée Gadagne: Lyon History Museum 

Another favorite, the Musée Gadagne (#7) traces the history of the city from the Capital of the Gauls to the present. If you love urban planning and want to learn how Lyon got to where it is today, this museum is for you!  

I was surprised to learn that Lyon had the same mayor (Edouard Herriot) for over 50 years–from 1905 to 1940 and from 1945 to 1957. 

As you leave this exhibit, you’ll see a beautiful re-creation of a residential parlor during World War II and a film on the history of Lyon during the early 1900s. 

Re-creation of a parlor during World War II Photo: Liz Reding

The Lyon History Museum is located at 1 place du petit Collège and is open Wednesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 6:30 pm. Admission is free with the Lyon City Card or €8 per person without the card. For more information about special exhibitions, check the museum’s website.

Lumière Museum

The Institut Lumière (#8) museum celebrates the achievements of the Lumière brothers (Auguste and Louis) and is located in the house in which their family lived. 

Louis Lumière invented the Cinématograph in 1895 as well as various cameras and color and relief photographs. The first film was made in the garden of the house which, at the time, was the largest factory in Europe for the production of photographic plates. 

The Institut Lumière produces the annual Festival Lumière every October. If you’re interested in film, you’ll be dazzled by the silent films in this exhibit. The technology on display has been lovingly preserved.

This Lumière Museum is free with the Lyon City Card or €7 per person without the card.

Sign for the Institut Lumière Photo Credit: Liz Reding

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6:30 pm. For information about location and special exhibitions, check the website.

Tony Garnier Urban Museum 

The Tony Garnier Urban Museum (#9) outdoor museum is in the 8th arrondissement (district) of Lyon known as États-Unis (United States). The buildings within the district were designed by the architect Tony Garnier, who worked with long-time friend and Lyon mayor, Edouard Herriot. 

Garnier was responsible for much of the infrastructure in the City of Lyon. He designed the social housing development in the États-Unis. Somewhat of a rebel, Garnier wanted to explore new ways of thinking about how to solve modern housing problems. 

Huge murals on the ends of housing blocks have turned the area into an open-air art gallery. Many of these paintings incorporate optical illusions that draw you into the action – you can hardly determine what’s real and what’s not. Check in at the museum office to get a map and an audio guide to take with you as you tour the murals.

Here are some of the murals you’ll see in the neighborhood. All photos by Liz Reding.

Mural of a town seen from the air in Lyon
Large mural on the side of a buliding of a jumble of houses in a village in Lyon
Large mural of a buidling with a clock tower on the side of a building in Lyon
Mural showing the interior of a large dairy barn on the side of a building in Lyon

While most of this exhibit is outdoors, a highlight is the excellent indoor re-creation of a model apartment. You’ll find many tributes to Tony Garnier throughout Lyon.

The Tony Garnier Urban Museum is free with the Lyon City Card or €6 per person without the card.

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 2 pm to 6 pm and closes for three weeks in August. Take Tram T4 to Musée Tony Garnier on 4, rue des Serpollières.

Exploring Lyon’s Food Culture

Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse 

Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse (#10) is foodie heaven! And, even better, visiting Les Halle de Lyon is free. 

Fortunately, as we all know, food consumed on vacation doesn’t have any calories!

What kind of food will you find here? Buy bread, cheese, meat, fish, poultry, fresh produce, oils and vinegars, wine, and, of course, chocolates and pastries that will clog your arteries and make you happy.

You’ll also find a dizzying array of restaurants tucked in and around the shops. Exploring this amazing place and sampling what’s being served in the restaurants is part of the fun! 

Les Halle de Lyon – Paul Bocuse is located at 102 Cours Lafayette and open daily from 7 am to 10:30 pm. Access via Tram T1, stop Mairie du 3.

Huge pot of paella at a food stall in Les Halle de Lyon
A stall at Les Halle de Lyon – Paul Bocuse Photo: Liz Reding

Croix-Rousse Marché

Open every day except Monday, the Marché alimentaire de la Croix-Rousse (#11) is like no other. It’s huge and carries regular and bio (organic) produce. 

In addition to the Croix-Rousse Marche, you’ll find a market in every arrondissement in Lyon. Most markets start early in the morning and end around 1 pm.

One of the few markets that opens later in the day is located just above the Metro stop at Place Jean Jaures. This market is smaller than most but offers a wide selection of produce, cheese, and meat and is open Thursdays from 2 pm-7 pm.

What To Eat in Lyon

Hey, you’re in France! Eat lots of bread and pastry … and drink lots of wine! You’ll find boulangeries (bakeries) on nearly every street.

Do I have a favorite boulangerie? Well, some people say that the best boulangerie is the one that’s open and closest to you. I prefer the establishments with signs that say either boulanger or boulangerie, because the products are usually hand-made rather than frozen or pre-made and baked on-site. 

Shelf of fresh baked bread at a boulangerie in Lyon, France
A local boulangerie in Lyon Photo Credit: Liz Reding

You’ll have to do your own research to decide which boulangerie is the best. 

Purchase wine in any grocery store, even on Sundays. You’ll be astounded by the number of wine choices and how much fun they can be to sample! Of course, you can always find pricey wines, but don’t overlook the cheap stuff.

Our price point is €4 to €8 per bottle, and we’re never disappointed. Also, practice makes perfect!

Although full of attractions and interesting things to do, Lyon remains relatively undiscovered by tourists. You won’t find the museums crowded, and you shouldn’t have trouble finding great restaurants in which to enjoy Lyon’s famous cuisine.

Lyon is considered the capital of gastronomy in France.

No wonder my husband and I moved here.


Tours & Tickets in Lyon

Here are some tours and ticket options to consider when visiting Lyon.

Lyon Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Lyon!

Conclusion

Check out Liz Reding’s post about cooking classes in Paris and Lyon. And have you visited Lyon? Share your recommendations in the Comments below.

For more information about France, check out the France page and these posts:

Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris

Choosing the best small museums in Paris to feature in a post about my fave art museums is like choosing a favorite child. It’s almost impossible! But I’m going to give it whirl anyway to introduce you to some museums that you may not have visited.

You’ll notice I’ve left the three biggies off my list: the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay and the Centre Pompidou. All three are über must-sees, and you’ll find information about them in this post that matches Parisian sights with bistro dishes from my novel Love Among the Recipes.

Pinterest graphic with the text Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris" over a picture of Monet's waterlilies at the top and a row or medieval scsulpture from the Cluny Museum in Paris at the bottom.

But the operative word in this post is small, some may even say obscure! You will find some fairly well-known museums on my list, but you may also find several that you have not heard of, let alone visited.

I’ve organized the museums by arrondissement, starting with the Orangerie in the 1st arrondissement and ending with the Marmottan Museum in the 16th arrondissement. The map belows shows the location of each museum.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

#1: The Orangerie

The Musée de l’Orangerie is not far from the Louvre and overlooks the Jardin des Tuileries. I always enjoy popping into the Orangerie to revisit one of the most compelling exhibitions in Paris.

Here, in two consecutive oval salons, you’ll view the eight large paintings that make up Les Nymphéas by Monet. Lit by natural light from the ceiling and oriented from west to east, the light follows the course of the sun.

Detail from a painting of waterlilies by Claude Monet

Monet helped to design these rooms in which his paintings are displayed. He wanted visitors to immerse themselves in the paintings and find solace in their beauty following the horrors of World War I. Monet certainly knew what he was about. Walking through the two salons of the Orangerie feels like being submersed in a cool, blue, calm oasis. As you can tell, I love this space!

Take a virtual tour of the Orangerie.

Visiting the Orangerie

Go to the Orangerie as early in the day as possible to avoid the crowds. Contemplating these incredible paintings is best done in quiet and solitude.

In the first salon, the four compositions depict the reflections of the sky and vegetation in the water from morning to evening. The colors vary from yellows and pinks to greens. I find the paintings the first salon both cheerful and soothing.

But my favorite is the second salon, where the dominant blues inspire a mood of intense calm. Relax on one of the benches and let the beauty of the pieces wash over you. You’ll almost feel as if you’re actually in nature, rather than simply looking at depictions of nature.

After viewing the water lily paintings, check out the rest of the Orangerie. The permanent collection includes works by most of the greats, including Renoir, Gauguin, Cézanne, and Sisley.

Special Exhibitions at the Orangerie

We’ve seen some beautifully curated special exhibitions at the Orangerie, most recently an exhibition of Spanish impressionists. Consult the website to see what’s on.

The Orangerie is located at the Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde. The closest Métro is Tuileries. Make sure to buy your ticket in advance so you can skip the line-up. The museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm daily except Tuesdays.

#2: Picasso Museum

Situated in the heart of Le Marais, the Musée National Picasso-Paris is home to over 5,000 works in a comprehensive collection that includes paintings, sculptures, and engravings.

Housed in the historic Hôtel Salé, a private mansion at 5 rue de Thorigny, the building has been described as “the grandest, most extraordinary, if not the most extravagant, of the grand Parisian houses of the 17th century”.

You’ll also see sketches, studies, drafts, notebooks, etchings, photographs, films, illustrated books, and other documents that demonstrate Picasso’s creative process.

If you’re a fan of modern art, and Picasso in particular, this beautiful museum will keep you well entertained and informed.

The Picasso Museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 10.30 am to 6 pm and weekends from 9.30 am to 6 pm. The museum is popular, so buy your ticket in advance.

#3: Cluny Museum

If I had to choose my favorite art museum in Paris, I would have to say the Musée de Cluny – Le monde médiéval, known colloquially as the Cluny. I enjoy it more than the three biggies for several reasons.

First, it’s manageable, unlike its larger cousins. You can tour the Cluny in an afternoon and still have energy to enjoy the lively 5th arrondissement. Spend an afternoon pacing the massive galleries at the Louvre and you’ll need an hour relaxing by a fountain in the Tuileries to recover.

Second, the Cluny features room after room of outlandishly awesome objets d’art from the Middle Ages–the historical period I most prefer.

Third, you’ll see the gorgeous Lady and the Unicorn tapestries woven from silk and wool in Paris around 1500. Admiring these six tapestries is worth the price of admission alone.

What to See at the Cluny

Take a seat in the special circular room that houses the tapestries and enjoy decoding how each of the first five tapestries depicts a different sense: taste, touch, smell, hearing, and sight. And what is the meaning of the sixth tapestry titled À mon seul désir? The jury’s still out, but some say the tapestry represents love.

The Lady and the unicorn Desire

The sixth tapestry: À mon seul désir Photo: Wikipedia

In addition to the tapestries, the Cluny offers amazing displays of wooden statues, stained glass, objects made from ivory, stone sculptures, and numerous household objects, furniture, paintings… the list goes on.

On one visit to the Cluny, I happened upon a concert of medieval choral music in the sculpture courtyard. Hearing that music while surrounded by the objects made during the same period was transporting. I love coming upon unexpected performances when I’m traveling in Europe. Keep your eyes peeled (as my Dad used to say). You’re bound to discover all sorts of opportunities to enjoy performances in some of your favorite museums and galleries.

Row of sculptures in the Cluny Museum in Paris, one of the best small museums in Paris
Sculptures in the marvelous Cluny Museum

Check the website to find out if concerts are scheduled when you’re in Paris. In the meantime, you can explore the collections at the Cluny on the museum’s comprehensive website.

The Cluny is located at 28 Rue du Sommerard. The closest Métros are Cluny-La Sorbonne, Saint-Michel, and Odéon.

#4: Zadkine Museum

The Musée Zadkine has been called a “folly” in the middle of Paris. On rue d’Assas in the 6th arrondissement and close to the Luxembourg Gardens and hip Montparnasse, the Zadkine Museum was once the studio of Ossip Zadkine (1890-1967), a sculptor of Russian origin.

The small exterior door leads you into a calm, green space that feels miles away from the bustle of Paris. You’ll find sculptures in a variety of media, including wood, stone, clay, and even bronze, along with graphic works and illustrations, photographs, tapestries, and archival material.

Musée Zadkine - Jardin

Sculpture by Zadkine at the Zadkine Museum. Photo: Wikipedia

Shortly before he died, Zadkine wrote, “But it is in any case very beautiful to end your life with a chisel and mallet in your hands.”

The Musée Zadkine is located at 100 bis Rue d’Assass and is open from 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday. The closest Métros are Notre-Dame des Champs and Vavin.

#5: Quai Branly Museum

Not far from the Eiffel Tower but still in the 7th arrondissement and close to the river, the spectacular Musée du Quai Branly Jacques Chirac is a must-see. I never tire of visiting this museum because there is such an incredible number of things (370,000 apparently) to ponder and enjoy.

The Quai Branly houses a remarkable collection of art and objects from around the globe organized into four geographical areas—Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas.

I love this museum’s attention to detail. Interactive screens set up in alcoves around the museum provide in-depth information about specific exhibits. You could spend weeks here and only scratch the surface.

Exterior of the Quai Branly Museum in Paris

The range and complexity of the objects displayed is a testament to human creativity through the ages. Set aside half a day to explore this incroyable museum.

Special exhibitions are also featured. On one visit, we saw an exhibition of Picasso’s collection of art from around the world, including Africa.

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 7:00 pm (Thursdays until 10:00 pm).

#6: Rodin Museum

The Musée Rodin in the 7th arrondissement is simply gorgeous. Housed in the magnificent Hôtel Biron and surrounded by three hectares of sculpture-studded gardens, the Musée Rodin celebrates the work of one of France’s premier sculptors.

Check out The Thinker perpetually contemplating life in the garden then go inside and marvel at the statue called The Kiss. Ooh la la! Wander through room after chandeliered room of sculptures—some marble, some plaster, some bronze. The sheer volume and range of work is overwhelming.

Rodin Museum in Paris, one of the best small museums in Paris.
Rodin Museum in Paris

The Musée Rodin is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6:30 pm.

#7: Musée Maillol

In a quiet area of the 7th arrondissement, the Musée Maillol is well known by Parisian art lovers for its special exhibitions but is not as well known by visitors. We’ve seen excellent exhibitions at the Maillol, including an collection of paintings by van Gogh and a spectacular display of paintings by Artemisia Gentileschi.

The exhibitions we’ve seen have featured several walls’ worth of information about the paintings—all in French. If you don’t read French, ask if a handout with an English translation is available.

The Musée Maillol was established by Dina Vierny, an artists’ model who became a famous singer, art dealer, collector, museum director, and Aristide Maillol’s muse for the final ten years of his life. The top floors of the Musée Maillol feature many works by Maillol, including monumental sculptures of female nudes. Maillol’s work is amazing and beautifully displayed. You’ll also find works by several 20th-century artists.

The Musée Maillol is open daily from 10:30 am to 6:30 pm when exhibitions are on (Fridays until 8:30 pm).

#8: Gustave Moreau Museum

The Musée National Gustave Moreau in the 9th arrondissement at the foot of Montmartre is quite the revelation. If you’re familiar with the work of the symbolist painter Moreau, you’ll know that you’re in for a treat. The museum occupies the painter’s family home and includes hundreds of paintings and watercolors showcasing the work of a painter many consider the master of French Symbolism.

Some of the paintings are massive and contain so much intricate detail that your eyes get sore just looking at them!

Gustave Moreau Salomé 1876

Salome by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia

Jupiter and Semele - Gustave Moreau

Jupiter and Semele by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia

The museum is open daily, except Tuesdays, from 10 am to 6 pm.

#9: Marmottan Museum

Located in the stylish 16th arrondissement, the Musée Marmottan Monet is one of the loveliest art museums in Paris. Highlights of the collection are the works by the impressionists Claude Monet and Berthe Morisot. In addition, you’ll see a collection from the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and the Second Empire, along with paintings by other impressionists, such as Caillebotte, Degas, Pissarro, Renoir, Sisley, and Rodin.

Berthe Morisot, who painted The Sisters shown above, is one of the artists frequently exhibited at The Marmottan

The Marmottan is a bit of a trek from the Metro (La Muette or Ranelagh) but worth the effort required to get there. It features a great museum shop (I’m a sucker for a good museum shop).

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (last admission: 5.30 pm), with extended hours to 9 pm on Thursdays (last admission: 8.30 pm).

Conclusion

Have you been to any of these art museums in Paris? Do you have other suggestions for artsy travelers? Share your recommendations in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts about art in Paris:

Top Normandy Sights to Excite Art & History Lovers

Normandy has many wonderful sights to offer the artsy traveler.

You’ll find charming villages, beaches steeped in history, quirky museums, and a tapestry for the ages.

Spend at least a week in Normandy to explore its long coastline and rolling fields dotted with stone church spires. 

Pinterest graphic with the text "Top Normandy Sights to Excite Art & History Lovers" overlaid two pictures. The top pictures shows the harbor in the picturesque town of Honfleur in Normandy. The bottom picture shows a view of Mont Saint Michel in Normany.

Highlights of Normandy

Map of France: Normandy

The map below shows the locations of the artsy sightseeing favorites mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.

Artist-In-Residence in Normandy

A few years ago, Gregg Simpson (husband and artist) and I spent two months at an artist-in-residence place called Les Rouges en Vert in the tiny village of Soligny-la-Trappe in the Perche region of France.

When we weren’t painting (Gregg) and writing (me), we spent many hours exploring a region of France that’s both stunningly beautiful and that has played an outsized role in the history of western Europe.

Here are a few shots of our time at Les Rouges en Vert where Gregg had a painting studio and an exhibition and where I worked on my novel, The Towers of Tuscany.

Gregg Simpson in front of rouges en vert, an artists residence in Normandy
Gregg Simpson painting
Gregg Simpson at the opening of an exhibition in Normany

Normandy is home to more than thirty World Heritage Sites, including Honfleur, Mont St. Michel, the cliffs of Étretat, Caen, and Bayeux, all of which are covered in this post.

Cliffs at Étretat

These iconic chalk cliffs captivated Monet, and they’ll likely captivate you. On a clear day, the white cliffs, needles, and arches shimmer in the famous Normandy light. No wonder Monet painted so many views.

Climb to the top of the cliffs from either end of the beautiful sandy beach to enjoy better views than you’ll get from the beach below.

The paths and steps are steep with few hand railings. Vertigo sufferers are advised to admire the cliffs from the beach.

Panoramic landscape of the famous cliff of Etretat, Normandy, France
Panoramic landscape of the famous cliffs of Étretat, Normandy, France

The resort town of Étretat (#1), with its half-timbered houses and outdoor cafés, is a wonderful place to enjoy lunch before or after climbing to the top of the cliffs. You’ll find resort-style shops and even a casino on the beach.

Honfleur

Visit Honfleur (#2) to see where many of the impressionist painters were inspired, including Monet, Renoir, Courbet, Pissarro, and native son Eugène Boudin who has a whole museum dedicated to his work.

Honfleur is fabulous! As an artist, Gregg was captivated by the same luminous light that attracted the impressionists. The town’s dedication to the arts continues, with many art galleries lining the streets of the old town.

The other big attraction, since we love music, is the quirky Satie Museum.

Satie Museum

Known as the Maisons Satie (#3), the Erik Satie Museum ranks high on our list of favorite music museums. The museum occupies the entire house in which Satie was born in 1866.

Satie was a composer from the early 20th century, a compatriot of Debussy, and active in the Dada movement.

When you enter the museum, you’re given an audio guide that takes you on a sonic and sensory journey unlike any I’ve experienced. Put on the headphones, then walk into any room to trigger a range of music, light, image, and sound effects.

The museum even includes a leg-powered merry-go-round to pedal to the accompaniment of Satie’s music.

Gregg rides the music and leg-powered merry-go-round in the Satie Museum
Gregg rides the music- and leg-powered merry-go-round in the Satie Museum

Musée Eugène Boudin

Close to the Satie Museum is the Musée Eugène Boudin (#4). This large museum is worth an hour or two of your time to admire paintings by not only Boudin but also many of his impressionist compatriots, including Claude Monet and Berthe Morisot (one of my favorites).

The museum also exhibits clothes and furniture, photographs from 1880 to 1920, a cool collection of more than 100 tourist posters from 1880 to 1950 advertising the delights of Normandy, and even antique toys.

Staying in Honfleur

Stay two nights so you’ll have lots of time to wander the old town and enjoy the Vieux Bassin (#5), where tall, skinny houses rise above a sea of fishing boats and masts.

Honfleur Harbour, Normandy, France.
Honfleur Harbour – Vieux Bassin in Normandy, France

Pull up a chair at one of the many outdoor cafés lining the Vieux Bassin, order moulesfrites (mussels and fries), and watch the world go by.

Honfleur is a popular tourist spot with several good accommodation options for staying a night or two. We stayed at the very comfortable Hotel L’Ecrin.

Another option is to make Honfleur your home base for a longer stay in the area. The location is convenient for driving to Caen, the D-Day beaches and Bayeux to the west, and the cliffs at Étretat to the east.

World War II Beaches

Today, the windswept Normandy beaches invite long walks on golden sands, face upturned to a blue sky arched over white-capped waves. I hadn’t expected the area to be so beautiful, considering the devastation it witnessed just a handful of decades ago.

Caen Memorial Museum

Make your first stop the Caen Memorial Museum (#6) near Caen to learn about the D-Day invasion from the point of view of both the Allied and the German soldiers.

Reserve a few hours to browse the comprehensive exhibition of artifacts and films. You’ll leave with a deeper understanding of the Battle of Normandy.

Exterior of Caen Memorial Museum showing a WWII American tank and flagpoles flaying flags of the allies.
Caen Memorial Museum in Normandy

Proceed to at least one of the beaches. We chose Juno Beach, where the Canadians landed on June 6, 1944. If you’re from the United States, you’ll want to see Omaha and Utah beaches farther west.

Visiting Juno Beach

At Juno Beach (#7), a thoughtfully curated museum provides a Canadian perspective on the war and on the invasion.

Most poignant was a film showing a continuous stream of names in alphabetical order of the men who landed on Juno. We knew one of the men and waited for his name to come up, but there were so many that we realized we’d have to wait a long time to see his.

It’s sobering to realize that each name belongs to a young man who, even if he’d survived, would be forever plagued by trauma.

The 54-mile stretch of coastline from Utah Beach in the west to Sword Beach in the east is awash in WWII museums, memorials, cemeteries, and battle remains from the largest military operation in history. You could easily spend several days in the area.

Sign pointing to Omaha Beach in Normandy
Direction sign of Omaha Beach in Normandy
Sign pointing to Juno Beach in Normandy
Direction sign of Juno Beach in Normandy

Bayeux

I was thrilled to finally visit the museum housing the famous Bayeux (#8) Tapestry–La Tapisserie de Bayeux (#9). If you’re fascinated by the story of the invasion of England by the Normans in 1066, then you’ll enjoy this fine museum.

The 70-meter-long tapestry is displayed on a special round spool that you walk around to the accompaniment of an excellent audio guide. In the darkened room, only the tapestry is lit. Follow the progress of the invasion—the boats and horses and helmeted men wielding swords.

Detail from the Bayeux tapestry, one of the principal sites in Normany for the artsy traveler

The story told by the tapestry begins in 1064, when Edward the Confessor, King of England, tells his brother-in-law, Harold Godwinson, to go to Normandy and offer his cousin, William, the succession to the English throne. The story ends with the Anglo-Saxons fleeing at the end of the Battle of Hastings in October 1066, although the last bit of the tapestry is missing.

Description of the Bayeux Tapestry Museum

The tapestry contains 58 scenes, 626 characters, and 202 horses.

What intrigued me about the Bayeux Tapestry was that it was created by women. Some historians maintain that the women embroiderers of Kent did the stitching. How did these women feel about telling the story of their invaders? How did they make the designs?

Some of these questions are answered in the film and museum exhibits you’ll see after viewing the tapestry.

The museum is open daily, 9:00 am to 6:30 pm, from February 1st to December 31st. From May to August, the museum remains open until 7:00 pm.

After touring the museum, wander around Bayeux’s quaint streets and pop into the massive Bayeux Cathedral that dominates the skyline. The Bayeux Tapestry was commissioned by Bishop Odo, half-brother of William the Conqueror, to adorn the cathedral where, for centuries, the tapestry was displayed once each year.

Water mill and Aure River in the old city of Bayeux
Water mill and Aure River in the attractive town of Bayeux

Perche Region

This pleasant area of rolling green hills, thousands of white cows, and grey-steepled churches is not a tourist mecca. It is, however, a popular place for wealthy Parisians to have second homes—and no wonder. The countryside is achingly gorgeous.

Drive around the quiet country roads past lakes and forests and visit some of the charming towns, including Alençon (#10), Argentan (#11), the cathedral at Sées (#12), and L’Aigle (#13). Get out of the car and go walking, make friends with the cows, and visit the Perche Natural Regional Park.

Carol Cram in the Perche countryside in Normandy
Enjoying a walk in the Perche countryside

For Canadians, particularly those of French descent, a visit to the Museum of French Emigration to Canada in Tourouvre is worthwhile. Many of the people who populated Quebec in the 17th century came from the Perche region. The museum tells their story.

Here are pictures of the countryside surrounding the place where Gregg and I did a two-month artist-in-residence stint a few years ago.

Bucolic scene across a lake to an abbey in the Perche region of Normandy
Cathedral at Sées
White cows grazing in a field in Normandy
Lots of white cows in Normandy
Enjoying a picnic in the beautiful Perche region of Normandy
Enjoying a picnic in the countryside
View over golden fields of rapeseed in Normandy, France
Golden fields of rapeseed

Mont St. Michel

Floating off the Normandy coast on the border of Brittany, Mont St. Michel will make you smile.

Mont Saint Michel in Normandy, France
Approaching Mont St. Michel in Normandy, France

Is it real? Did people from centuries ago actually brave the tortuous tides to build the massive, stone-walled abbey?

Indeed, they did, and since its founding in 966, Mont St. Michel (#14) has attracted pilgrims and now tourists. Its tiny cobbled streets are clogged with souvenir shops and crowds, but visit anyway. The views of the swirling waters from the ramparts of the abbey are breathtaking.

Park in the new car parks located about 1.5 miles from the island and walk to the Place des Navettes to catch a shuttle bus (passeur) across the causeway to the island.

You can also walk across the causeway to the island. Once there, you’ll climb the steep streets to the abbey. Buy tickets in advance to skip the line.

Inside, you’ll find peaceful cloisters, the soaring Gothic church, and one of the grand chambers, known as The Marvel because it clings spectacularly to the rock.

Traveling To and Around Normandy

Normandy is best explored with a car or on a tour from Paris. A good strategy is to pick up a rental car outside of Paris at Charles de Gaulle Airport and then head west into Normandy for at least a week.

On your way to the locations described in this post, stop off in Rouen to view the magnificent cathedral—one of Monet’s favored subjects.

Tours in Normandy

If you choose not to drive in Normandy, consider taking a tour. Here are options through Tiqets.com:

And here are some options for tours in Normandy with GetYourGuide:

Powered by GetYourGuide

Conclusion

Have you visited Normandy? Do you have artsy and historic sites to recommend? Please share your experiences with other artsy travelers in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts to read next to help you plan and enjoy your time in France: