UBC Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver: Why You Should Go!

Arts & Culture, Canada, Destinations, Museums Artsy Traveler 4 Comments

Last updated on February 3rd, 2025 at 04:18 pm

The Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia (UBC) is the must-see museum in my hometown of Vancouver.

While I was on an Alaskan cruise a few years back, several visitors asked me what they should see during their one day in Vancouver. I always said the anthropology museum and always received a blank stare.

Regrettably, this world-class museum is not as well known as it deserves to be. Usually, when people talk about what tourists should see in Vancouver, they say the Capilano Suspension Bridge (crowded and way over-priced), the Vancouver Art Gallery (okay), and Stanley Park (a definite yes).

An image collage promoting the UBC Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver, featuring totem poles and bold text reading “Why You Should Go!” with “artsytraveler.com” at the bottom.

But a trip out to UBC to tour the Museum of Anthropology (MOA) is an absolute must. MOA houses an unparalleled collection of northwest coast Indigenous art and artifacts, along with exquisite exhibits of objects from cultures all over the world.

Overview

In this post, I share my recommendations for enjoying your visit to the UBC Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver, BC. I’ve also included practical information, such as hours, admission fees, and how to get there. Finally, check out what else you can see at the University of British Columbia and my suggested hotels in downtown Vancouver.

Where is the Museum of Anthropology (MOA)?

Designed by famed Canadian architect Arthur Erickson, the Museum of Anthropology (also known as MOA) is located on the campus of the University of British Columbia at the very tip of Point Grey, a peninsula that juts into the Strait of Georgia west of Vancouver’s downtown core. See #1 on the map below.

After being closed for a few years for seismic upgrading, MOA is again welcoming visitors.

Here’s the view of mountains and ocean that greets you from the rose garden on a hill above the museum.

A view of the rose garden at the University of British Columbia and the view of mountains and ocean beyond. The roses planted in the garden are in bloom.

The map below shows the location of the Museum of Anthropology (#1) along with other worthwhile sites at the University of British Columbia and recommended hotels in Vancouver.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Arriving at MOA

After parking in the lot conveniently located just off NW Marine Drive and adjacent to the museum, you pass the MOA sign and a rock with a message in two languages reminding you that you are on the ancestral homeland of the Musqueam people.

Sign at the entrance to the Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia in BC

Rock at the entrance to the Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia in BC

I grew up close to this area and regrettably learned very little about the people who first lived here. In recent years, great strides are being made to redress the imbalances.

One such development is the increasing use of Indigenous names for landmarks that for 150 years were known by their “settler” names.

Entering the Museum of Anthropology

Enter the spacious lobby and buy your ticket. If you have a backpack or bag, you’ll need to store it in the lockers provided (they even give you a quarter to open a locker!).

And now, get ready for some serious awesomeness! Your first stop? Walk down a shallow ramp past exhibits of local First Nations art and into the Great Hall.

On your way, read the many informative plaques to learn about the displays. Their purpose is to educate visitors about why each object or artifact is significant to the culture and heritage of the First Nations people.

A vibrant woven blanket with intricate geometric patterns hanging in a museum exhibit, next to a wooden carving. These are featured on the way into the Great Hall at the Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver, Canada.

Here’s the description of the contemporary woven blanket displayed to your right as you walk down the ramp:

We dedicate this blanket to our mother Helen, our elders, and those who have gone before us. We look at this blanket as part of the tradition of education that was in place in our community for generations and is now being revived. Our ancestors speak through this weaving, through all of our weavings. In this way, they continue to share their knowledge with us.

The Great Hall

I’ve visited the Museum of Anthropology at UBC many times. But every time I walk into the Great Hall filled with one of the world’s most extensive collections of Indigenous art from the northwest coast, I feel an overwhelming sense of awe.

MOA does an excellent job of explaining the significance of each of the displays, with much of the information contributed by Indigenous artists who are carving totems and creating art today.

Stroll around this large space to get a feel for the awesomeness of the art and take time to read the explanatory plaques.

Here are some of the many totem poles that west coast First Nations people carved from cedar. Tilt your head back and marvel at the intricacy and beauty of the poles soaring to the rafters in this incredible space.

Totem poles in the great hall at the Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia in BC

Tall Indigenous totem poles displayed in the Great Hall at the Museum of Anthropology museum with floor-to-ceiling glass windows and natural light.

Sea-Lion House

It’s difficult to single out any one piece for more elaboration because every piece is accompanied by a fascinating story. The Sea-Lion House (Indigenous name Klix’Ken Gukwdzi) is particularly noteworthy.

According to the information provided, the First Nations community built the house in 1906 in defiance of the assimilation pressures imposed through the federal Indian Act.

A large Indigenous wood carving featuring a figure with painted facial details, supported by two figures holding a wooden beam.

This house was the last old-style dwelling erected in the village as a home for an extended family. It’s probably one of the last examples of traditional northwest coast architecture in the entire Pacific Northwest.

Colonialism and Indigenous People

The dramatic beauty of traditional northwest coast art on display at MOA is all the more remarkable considering that for decades, many of the cultural traditions of the First Nations people in British Columbia were banned.

Potlaches were outlawed, people were not permitted to wear their masks or dance or sing their traditional songs, and their languages were systematically wiped out.

In recent decades, the devastation wrought by these draconian laws is slowly being overcome. MOA’s curators and historians are doing an amazing job of putting together thoughtful and beautiful displays that celebrate the First Nations culture and do not shy away from painful truths about the colonial past.

Sculptures created by artists in the pacific Northwest on display at the Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver.

European Ceramics Gallery

After marveling at the totems and other displays in the Great Hall, return to the entrance and head to the right to tour the Koerner Collection of European ceramics.

The feeling here is completely different but no less interesting. This extensive collection features ceramics displayed in a darkened room that every time I’ve visited has been virtually empty.

Cases of ceramics, mostly plates and dinnerware in the ceramics room at the Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver.

I enjoyed learning something about the history of ceramics and was fascinated by so many incredible examples of ceramic art, some dating back millennia.

These little guys are particularly adorable. They were made in the 18^th century at the Holič factory in Hungary.

Brightly colored ceramic sculptures created in Hungary and on display in the ceramics room at the Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver.

Multiversity Galleries

From the ceramics exhibition head back through the main hall and explore the museum’s multiversity galleries. MOA pioneered the use of open storage displays to exhibit their massive collection of objects from around the world.

These message greets you at the entrance to the Multiversity Galleries:

Enter here to meet creative expressions from around the globe. The galleries are laid out like a map of the world, joined by oceans and rivers. Pull open the drawers. Look up more information at the computer stations. Experience how connecting objects and people can bring the collection to life.

Here’s a portion of the South Pacific collection.

One of the entrances into the galleries showing objects from Oceania at the Museum of Anthropology

Northwest Coast First Nations Art and Objects

Don’t miss the collection of Pacific Northwest objects and art created by the area’s First Nations people. It is by far the largest collection in the galleries and features impressive displays of sculptures, masks, baskets, hats, textiles, and much more—some historical, some contemporary.

This massive Raven mask has been passed down for generations and, like all the exhibits in the First Nations collection, holds both artistic and spiritual significance along with precious knowledge for the communities that used it in ceremonies.

Massive raven mask (about six feet long) on display at the Museum of Anthropology

World Cultures

MOA features an impressive collection of thousands of ethnographic objects and artifacts from around the world. You’ll see magnificent objects from the Americas, Africa, Asia, and Oceania along with thoughtful and comprehensive descriptions.

Here are just a few examples of the breadth and astonishing variety of the collection the museum features.

Wall of masks from Mexico on display at the Museum of Anthropology

Collection of Indonesian dolls on display at the Museum of Anthropology

Take your time to really look at these incredible objects. You could easily spend hours. And don’t forget to open the drawers! You never know what you’ll discover.

Works by Bill Reid

Acclaimed Haida artist Bill Reid is renowned for his sculptures and jewelry, several breathtaking examples of which are displayed in the museum.

The centerpiece is Bill Reid’s sculpture called The Raven and the First Men.

The Raven and the First Men sculpture by Haida Artist Bill Reid

This stunning sculpture, made from a 4.5-ton cube of 106 laminated beams, took several years to complete. The museum acquired it in 1980.

Here is the legend of Raven and the First Humans as presented on MOA’s excellent website:

One day after the great flood Raven was walking along the beach at Rose spit in the Queen Charlotte Islands when he heard a sound emanating from a clamshell at his feet. He looked more closely and saw that the shell was full of small humans. He coaxed, cajoled and coerced them to come out and play in the wonderful new world. Some immediately scurried back into the shell, but eventually curiosity overcame caution, and they all clambered out. From these little dwellers came the original Haidas, the first humans.

Walk around the sculpture and be constantly enchanted by how it changes. This piece is a marvel.

Special Exhibitions

In addition to the three areas described in this post, MOA has areas devoted to special exhibitions. These vary throughout the year, so check the website to find out what’s on during your visit.

Tours of MOA

You can choose to take one of the free guided tours the museum offers with one of the new Cultural Interpreters. Learn about the collection from an Indigenous perspective and gain insight from Cultural Interpreters who have a personal connection to the belongings and treasures.

Tours last 45 to 60 minutes and are offered Tuesday to Thursday at 11 am, 1 pm and 3 pm, and Friday to Sunday at 1 pm and 3 pm.

Make sure to check the website to confirm the schedule.

Practical Information

The Museum of Anthropology is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm (Thursdays to 9 pm). It’s closed on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.

Museum admission currently costs $25 for adults, $22 for seniors (65+) and students, and $10 for youth. Children under 5, Indigenous people, UBC students, staff and faculty, and MOA members are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Museum Gift Shop

The museum’s small gift shop features with some pretty nice stuff, including plenty of examples of Indigenous art, jewelry and crafts, along with books and souvenirs.

Accessing the Museum of Anthropology from Downtown Vancouver

The Museum of Anthropology is located on the University of British Columbia campus, about 20 minutes from downtown Vancouver (#2 in the map at the beginning of this post). Here are some options for getting there from downtown Vancouver:

By Public Transit: Take the #4 UBC Bus from various downtown locations to the UBC Exchange or take the #99 B-Line bus to the UBC bus loop. From there, it’s about a ten-minute walk to MOA. Check the Translink website for routes, fares, and schedules.

From Vancouver International Airport (#3), take the Canada Line Skytrain to the Olympic Village station and then transfer to the #84 bus to UBC.

By Car: The museum is located at 6393 Northwest Marine Drive on the UBC campus. Ample parking is available at the museum, and parking fees are typically in line with campus parking rates.

Walking or Cycling: If you’re staying nearby, you can reach the museum on foot or by bicycle.

Other Attractions Near the Museum of Anthropology

If you have time to explore further, there are several other interesting attractions nearby.

Beaty Biodiversity Museum

Located a short walk from MOA, the Beaty Biodiversity Museum (#4) on the UBC campus is another excellent museum with exhibits showcasing the incredible biodiversity of our planet. Here are some pictures I took on a visit there.

A taxidermy big horn sheep with large curved horns against a dark background.

A museum display featuring colorful taxidermy birds, including a silver pheasant with iridescent feathers and an Elliot's pheasant on wooden stands.

You could spend hours browsing the extensive displays. With its wonderful collection of taxidermy animals, it’s a great place to take children.

UBC Botanical Garden

Another nearby gem is the UBC Botanical Garden (#5). Here, you can explore themed gardens, hiking trails, and a diverse collection of plant species from around the world. Established in 1916, the garden is Canada’s oldest university botanic garden.

I love going in the late spring and summer. Take your walking shoes; there’s a lot to see and it’s big!

Pacific Spirit Regional Park

For nature lovers, Pacific Spirit Regional Park (#6) offers extensive walking and hiking trails through lush forest, providing a peaceful retreat from the city. It’s a great spot for a post-museum stroll.

Nitobe Gardens

I adore Nitobe Gardens (#7) and pop in almost every time I visit the campus of the University of British Columbia. The gardens are a short walk from MOA so you can easily include it in your visit.

Considered one of the most authentic Japanese gardens outside of Japan, Nitobe Gardens is just gorgeous no matter what time of year you visit. But the best times are in spring when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom and again in the fall when the maple leaves are bright red.

Here are two photos taken in late spring.

A tranquil pond in the Nitobe Gardens at UBC, a Japanese garden with an arched bridge surrounded by pink blossoms, green trees, and the reflection of the landscape in the water.

A view of the Nitobe Gardens at UBC in Vancouver showing a pond reflecting a blossoming cherry tree, rocks, and lush greenery in the background.

Where to Stay in Vancouver

Vancouver is a major tourist destination for Canada-bound travelers, and as such has plenty of excellent hotels. Your best bet is to stay in a hotel downtown, preferably one with a view of the magnificent North Shore mountains and the ocean.

Here are my three favorite hotels in Vancouver:

Granville Island Hotel

Located on Granville Island about a ten-minute bus ride from downtown Vancouver, the Granville Island Hotel is a great choice if you’re looking something a little bit different.

You can stroll around the Granville Island Market and other shops, take in a performance at nearby Bard on the Beach or the Arts Club Theatre, and listen to the seagulls as you drift off to sleep.

Pan Pacific Vancouver

Pan Pacific Vancouver is one of Vancouver’s most iconic hotels with gorgeous views of the cruise ships and freighters in Burrard Inlet with the North Shore mountains beyond.

This hotel is upscale, expensive, and right in the center of the action. It’s a great choice if you’re staying overnight in Vancouver before taking an Alaskan cruise.

The Westin Bayshore

I love The Westin Bayshore and often stay here if I’m taking a “town” break from my home on nearby Bowen Island.

The Bayshore’s location right next to Stanley Park is a huge selling point. Rent a bike and ride around the park, then return to the hotel and enjoy a drink overlooking Vancouver’s stunning harbor.

Vancouver Tours

GetYourGuide offers a variety of tours of Vancouver and the surrounding areas. If you have a full day to spare, then I recommend you head up to Whistler.

On this tour, you’ll ride the Sea to Sky Gondola in Squamish, explore Whistler Village (don’t miss the Audain Art Museum), and visit stunning Shannon Falls on the world-famous Sea-to-Sky Highway.

After visiting MOA, you may feel inspired by the various Indigenous portrayals of the Orcas that swim in the local waters. Treat yourself to a whale watching experience.

Conclusion

The Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver is a cultural and artistic treasure well worth a few hours of your time.

The sweeping views of mountains and sea you’ll enjoy on the journey out to the University of British Columbia are reason enough to visit, but you’ll also learn so much about the Indigenous cultures of the Pacific Northwest and get a chance to marvel at the the objects on display from around the world.

The ingenuity of people never ceases to amaze me, which is why I love museums like this.

Have you visited the Museum of Anthropology? What were your favorite exhibits? Share your recommendations and observations in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts about museums I’ve visited and heartily recommend:

Novels Set in Spain Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Arts & Culture, Artsy Novels, Destinations, Spain Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 18th, 2025 at 01:08 am

Read novels set in Spain to get you excited about your trip or, even better, to read while you’re there.

Lots of authors have been inspired to set novels in Spain, many of which revolve around art.

Each of the novels listed in this post relates in some way to the arts–from flamenco to Cervantes to Spanish Baroque art and more.

Pinterest graphic with the text compelling novels set in spain perfect for the artsy traveler. Above the text is a picture of the playa major in Madrid and below is a picture of flamenco dangers.

The Return by Victoria Hislop

In the heart of Granada, a family witnesses the worst horrors of the Spanish Civil War. Divided by politics and tragedy, everyone must choose a side, fighting a personal battle as Spain tears itself apart. With wonderful scenes featuring flamenco, this novel is a must-read for Spain bound travelers.

Dulcinea by Ana Veciana-Suarez

Dulcinea is a feminist reimagining of Cervantes’s Dolça, the fictional muse behind Don Quixote. The daughter of a wealthy merchant, young Dolça Llull Prat is besotted with the dashing, bootstrapping Miguel Cervantes from their first meeting. When Miguel renders her as the lowly Dulcinea in his great Quixote, revealing their association, he commits an unforgivable offense, and their decades-long affinity is severed—until he reaches out to her one last time.

The Master of the Prado by Javier Sierra

Presented as a fictionalized autobiography, The Master of the Prado begins in Madrid in 1990, when Sierra encounters a mysterious stranger named Luis Fovel within the halls of the Prado. Fovel takes him on a whirlwind tour and promises to uncover startling secrets hidden in the museum’s masterpieces—secrets that open up a whole new world to Sierra.

The Lady with the Dark Hair by Erin Bartels

This a dual-time novel about artists and identity. Esther Markstrom and her artist mother have always been proud of their ancestor, painter Francisco Vella. They even run a small museum and gallery dedicated to raising awareness of his scandalously underappreciated work. But when Esther reconnects with her former art history professor, she finds her once-solid family history on shaky ground as questions arise about Vella’s greatest work–a portrait entitled The Lady with the Dark Hair.

Attribution by Linda Moore

When art historian Cate Adamson discovers a hidden painting, possibly a Baroque masterpiece, she risks her career, financial disaster, and further alienation from her family and flees to Spain with the painting to consult art experts.

The Girl from Oto by Amy Maroney

Following her birth 1500, Renaissance-era artist Mira is raised in a Pyrenees convent believing she is an orphan until she learns the terrible truth about her true origins, and must determine whether she possesses the strength to face those who would wish her harm.

The Lines Between Us by Rebecca D’Harlingue

Listed in the Literature category on Art In Fiction, The Lines Between Us is a dual-time book that takes place in Madrid in 1661 and Missouri in 1992. The connection between the two eras leads Rachel in 1992 to try healing the wounds caused by her mother’s lifelong reticence.

The Spanish Bow by Andromeda Romano-Lax

The bequest of a cello bow sets Feliu on the path to becoming a musician, an unlikely destiny given his beginnings in a dusty Catalonian village. When he is forced to flee to anarchist Barcelona, his education in music, life, and politics begins.

The Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafón

Barcelona, 1945: A city slowly heals in the aftermath of the Spanish Civil War, and Daniel, an antiquarian book dealer’s son who mourns his mother’s death, finds comfort in a mysterious book entitled The Shadow of the Wind, by one Julián Carax. But when he sets out to find the author’s other works, he makes a shocking discovery: someone has been systematically destroying every copy of every book Carax has written.

Want more novels set in Spain? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.

Guidebooks About Spain

My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on Spain. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.

Tours Around Spain

Visit some of the destinations mentioned in the featured novel. This 5-day tour that starts in Madrid, takes you to Cordoba, Seville, Granada, and Toledo.

Conclusion

Have you read a novel set in Spain, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Check out these posts that provide suggestions for what to read in other European countries:

Novels Set in Netherlands Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Arts & Culture, Artsy Novels, Destinations, Netherlands Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:42 pm

Read novels set in the Netherlands both to help get you in the mood for traveling and to enjoy when you’re there.

Each of the novels listed in this post relates in some way to the arts–from Rembrandt to Vermeer to the depiction of tulips in Golden Age Holland.

Reading any one of these novels will help set the scene for your travels in one of my favorite European countries!

Pinterest graphic with the text compelling novels set in Netherlands perfect for the artsy traveler above a field of colorful tulips

The Anatomy Lesson by Nina Siegal

The Anatomy Lesson takes readers through a single day in Golden Age Amsterdam when the city is preparing for the Winter Festival: executions, followed by a public dissection, and then a feast and torch parade through the city.

Girl with a Pearl Earring by Tracy Chevalier

History and fiction merge seamlessly in a novel about artistic vision and sensual awakening set in 1664 in Delft. Young Griet goes to work in the household of the great painter Johannes Vermeer and is immortalized in canvas and paint.

A Light of Her Own by Carrie Callaghan

This historical biographical novel tells the story of Judith Leyster, a Dutch painter from the 17th century whose work was lost to history until 1893. The novel richly weaves the journey of a woman of ambition set against the backdrop of Rembrandt and an uncompromising religion.

The Rembrandt Secret by Alex Connor

Inspired by real events in the artist’s life, The Rembrandt Secret is an historical thriller that follows a deadly serial killer who is wreaking havoc across London and New York.

The Vermeer Deception by Jennifer S. Alderson

Book 4 in Jennifer S. Alderson’s Zelda Richardson Mystery series revolves around the discovery of a missing portrait by Johannes Vermeer that results in a dangerous game of cat-and-mouse with unethical art collectors, unscrupulous dealers, and an all-too-real killer.

Tulip Fever by Deborah Moggach

Seventeenth-century Amsterdam is a city in the grip of tulip fever. To celebrate growing wealthy from this exotic new flower, a merchant commissions a gifted young artist to paint him with his beautiful bride. But as the portrait grows, so does the passion between his wife and the painter; and ambitions, desires, and dreams breed an intricate deception and a reckless gamble.

The Lost Diaries of Frans Hals by Michael Kernan

When ancient notebooks surface in a Long Island garage, Peter Van Overloop, a Columbia grad student, sets about translating them, and finds himself immersed in the life and times of the Dutch painter Frans Hals. The notebooks appear to be Hal’s diaries, and they paint a gripping portrait of a man living in the age of Rembrandt and Descartes, and bursting with a lust for the world surrounding him.

The Winter Dress by Lauren Chater

Textiles historian Jo Baaker returns to the Dutch island where she was born, to investigate the provenance of a valuable 17th-century silk dress retrieved from a sunken shipwreck. Her research leads her to Anna Tesseltje, a poor Amsterdam laundress who served on the fringes of the Dutch court. But how did Anna come to possess such a precious dress?

The Map Colorist by Rebecca D’Harlingue

In 1660, Amsterdam is the trading and map-printing capital of the world. Anneke van Brug is one of the colorists paid to enhance black-and-white maps for a growing number of collectors. But Anneke is not content to simply embellish the work of others; she longs to create maps of her own.

Still Life by Dodie Bishop

In this 17th-century historical romance, gifted artist Clara Peeters has to make sacrifices and risk everything to pursue her craft. Together with fellow pupil Nico, the two find themselves surrounded by dangerous secrets and powerful enemies. But in the face of so much past pain, can something as fragile as love survive?

Want more novels set in the Netherlands? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.

Guidebooks About the Netherlands

My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on the Netherlands. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.

Tours Around the Netherlands

While reading one of my featured novels, you may want to explore more of the Netherlands on a bus tour. On this tour that starts and ends in Amsterdam, you’ll see traditional 17th-century houses and windmills in the Dutch countryside and visit Zaanse Schans, Volendam, Edam, and Marken.

Conclusion

Have you read a novel set in the Netherlands, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Check out these posts that provide suggestions for what to read in other European countries:

Novels Set in England Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Arts & Culture, Artsy Novels, Destinations, England Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:31 pm

Read novels set in England to get you excited about your trip or, even better, to read while you’re there. Numerous authors have been inspired to set novels in England, particularly novels inspired by England’s rich literary heritage from Shakespeare to Jane Austen to Oscar Wilde to Agatha Christie.

And yes, one of the novels set in England is mine! T he Muse of Fire is my third novel, and it’s set in early 19th Century London and inspired by real events.

Graphic for Pinterest showing the text "Compelling Novels Set in England Perfect for the Artsy Traveler" over a picture of a red double-decker bus crossing a bridge in front of London's Big Ben.

The Wildes by Louis Bayard

Oscar Wilde’s wife and two sons come out from the shadows of history in this emotional journey of a family moving from the Italian countryside to the trenches of WWI as they grapple with their famous father’s legacy.

From the Ground Up by Katherine J. Scott

Listed in the Architecture category on Art In Fiction, From the Ground Up takes place in Elizabethan England and is Katherine J. Scott’s first Robert Smythson Mystery.

A Change of Location by Margaret Porter

In this contemporary romance, Hanna Ballard is a film location manager involved in pre-production for a film set in the Somerset countryside when she becomes involved with the local landowner.

The British Booksellers by Kristy Cambron

From deep in the trenches of the Great War to the storied English countryside and the devastating Coventry Blitz of World War II, The British Booksellers explores the unbreakable bonds that unite us through love, loss, and the enduring solace that can be found between the pages of a book.

The Ghost Theatre by Mat Osman

This wild and hallucinatory reimagining of Elizabethan London is listed in the Theater category on Art In Fiction and is a fever-dream full of prophecy and anarchy, gutter rats and bird gods that takes the reader on a wild ride from the rooftops of Elizabethan London to its dark underbelly.

Bloomsbury Girls by Natalie Jenner

This compelling and heartwarming story is set in post-war London and revolves around three women working at Bloomsbury Books, an old-fashioned new and rare bookstore that has persisted and resisted change for a hundred years. As the women interact with various literary figures of the time–Daphne Du Maurier, Ellen Doubleday, Sonia Blair (widow of George Orwell), Samuel Beckett, Peggy Guggenheim, and others–they plot out a future that is richer and more rewarding than anything society will allow.

The Queens of Crime by Marie Benedict

Set in London in 1930, the five greatest women crime writers have banded together to form a secret society with a single goal: to show they are no longer willing to be treated as second class citizens by their male counterparts in the legendary Detection Club. Led by the formidable Dorothy L. Sayers, the group includes Agatha Christie, Ngaio Marsh, Margery Allingham and Baroness Emma Orczy–the Queens of Crime.

The Last Heir to Blackwood Library by Hester Fox

Set in the 1920s, The Last Heir to Blackwood Library is described as a love letter to books. It’s a compelling rags-to-riches tale laced with betrayal and intrigue with a magnificent library and an enigmatic manuscript at its center.

The Muse of Fire by Carol M. Cram

Set in London in 1808-09, The Muse of Fire takes readers behind the scenes at Covent Garden theater where the intrigue, romance, and betrayal offstage rivals the drama in the plays performed onstage.

Hamnet & Judith by Maggie O’Farrell

This telling of the little-known story behind Shakespeare’s most enigmatic play is a luminous portrait of a marriage and the devastating loss of a beloved child.

Want more novels set in England? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.

Guidebooks About England

My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on England. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.

Tours Around England

I highly recommend a tour around Southwest England to give you a good sense of the beautiful English countryside described in some of my featured novels. This tour from Bristol visits many of the same locations I went to on the 4-day tour I took, including Minack Theatre, Durdle Door, Stonehenge, and St Ives.

Conclusion

Have you read any arts-inspired novels set in England? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Check out these posts containing suggestions for what to read in other European countries:

Novels Set in Germany Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Arts & Culture, Artsy Novels, Destinations, Germany Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:44 pm

Read novels set in Germany to get you excited about your trip or, even better, to read while you’re there. Numerous authors have been inspired to set novels in Germany–and not all of them are World War II novels set in Germany (although some are).

Each of the novels listed in this post relates in some way to the arts–from glassblowing to a lost Bach manuscript to a medieval cathedral, and more.

And if you can’t find what you’re looking for here, go to my sister site Art In Fiction and search for Germany or a related subject, and see what comes up.

A graphic for Pinterest containing the text "Compelling Novels Set in Germany Perfect for the Artsy Traveler" and including two pictures of buildings in Berlin.

The Glassblower by Petra Durst-Benning

This wonderful novel is the first in Petra Durst-Benning’s Glassblower Trilogy. It tells the story of three sisters in 19th century Germany who must learn the art of glass-blowing that has traditionally been done only by men so they can take care of themselves in a harsh world.

And After the Fire by Lauren Belfer

This dual-time novel spans over two hundred years from Berlin in the 18th century through the Holocaust to New York in contemporary times to tell the story of a lost Bach manuscript with a disturbing message. The novel is inspired by historical events.

The Porcelain Maker by Sarah Freethy

This dual-time debut novel by Sarah Freethy is inspired by an actual porcelain factory in Dachau. In Germany in 1929, two young artists begin a whirlwind romance until Max is arrested and sent to Dachau. Desperate to save her lover, Bettina risks everything to rescue him and escape Germany.

The Novelist from Berlin by V. S. Alexander

The Novelist from Berlin is inspired by the mysterious true story of Irmgard Keun, a novelist who defied all the rules. In 1920s Germany, even a woman as resourceful and intelligent as Niki Rittenhaus needs alliances in order to survive. She publishes her first novel, The Berlin Woman under a pseudonym to great success. But anonymity cannot last and soon she is in great danger.

Cathedral by Ben Hopkins

This immersive read is a remarkable feat of imagination. At the heart of the novel is the Cathedral and the story of its design and construction in the 13th and 14th centuries in the Rhineland town of Hagenburg unites a vast array of memorable characters whose fortunes are intertwined with the shifting political factions and economic interests vying for supremacy.

The Wild Girl by Kate Forsyth

One of six sisters, Dortchen Wild lives in the small German kingdom of Hesse-Cassel in the early 19th century. She finds herself irresistibly attracted to the boy next door, the handsome but very poor fairy tale scholar Wilhelm Grimm. As Dortchen tells Wilhelm some of the most powerful and compelling stories which will one day become his and Jacob’s renowned fairy tale collection, their love grows.

The Magician by Colm Tóibín

In The Magician (2021), Colm Tóibín captures the profound personal conflict of the very public life of German novelist Thomas Mann.
When the Great War breaks out in 1914 Thomas Mann, like so many of his fellow countrymen, is fired up with patriotism. But his flawed vision will form the beginning of a dark and complex relationship with his homeland, and see the start of great conflict within his own brilliant and troubled family.

The Weather in Berlin by Ward Just

This is a novel of Americans abroad. When a renowned Hollywood director travels to post-Wall Germany to spark his genius, he is unexpectedly reunited with an actress who mysteriously disappeared from the set of his movie thirty years earlier. Masterly and atmospheric, The Weather in Berlin explores the subtleties of artistic inspiration, the nature of memory, and the pull of the past.

Marlene by C. W. Gortner

Raised in genteel poverty after the World War I, Maria Magdalena Dietrich dreams of a career on the stage. This historical biographical novels follows the beautiful, desirous Marlene from Germany to America and back to Germany.

Want more novels set in Germany ? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.

Guidebooks About Germany

My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on Austria. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.

Tours Around Germany

While you’re reading a novel set in Germany, why not take a tour! This tour from Munich to the iconic castles of Ludwig II, King of Bavaria includes fairytale Neuschwanstein, intimate Linderhof and scenic Hohenschwangau.

Conclusion

Have you read a novel set in Germany, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Check out these posts that provide suggestions for what to read in other European countries:

Eiffel Tower: Should You Soar to the Summit?

Destinations, Europe, France Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:34 pm

Riding to the summit of the Eiffel Tower—or even to the second level—has long been a Paris must-do. Millions flock to the iconic monument every year to stand in long lines, ride an elevator up one of the sturdy pylons, and then look at the view.

But should you bother? Especially if your time in Paris is limited, should you spend a half day braving the crowds to ride an elevator or two (or even three) to see a view?

Read on for my recommendations about putting the Eiffel Tower on our must-see list while touring Paris.

A poster featuring the Eiffel Tower in daylight with vibrant green gardens and a bold headline asking, "Should You Soar to the Top of the Eiffel Tower in Paris?"

Going Up the Eiffel Tower in Paris, France

Well, it’s the Eiffel Tower and you’ve traveled a long way to see it. And after all, it’s the most famous architectural feature of the Paris skyline. Going up the Eiffel Tower is almost a rite of passage for the first-time visitor to Paris.

But do you really need to go up it?

Frankly, I say forget the elevator ride and just admire the tower from a distance. Take pictures of it from the Trocadero on the opposite side of the Seine, or from the middle of one of the bridges.

A classic view of the Eiffel Tower taken from the Trocadéro gardens, with fountains, greenery, and a bright blue sky with fluffy clouds.

Stay well away from the crowds and enjoy seeing the tower pop up every now and again as you tour Paris. There are so many amazing things to see in this city that spending half a day waiting in line (and you’ll likely wait in line even if you buy tickets in advance or take a tour) seems like such a waste of time.

I know—blasphemy—but really, if you don’t like crowds, can live without an elevator ride, and can find better things to spend the 25+ euros on (like lunch), then I say skip the Eiffel Tower.

What to Know If You Decide to Go Up the Eiffel Tower

That said, I totally get why going up the Eiffel Tower is appealing. Over the years, I’ve gone up the tower at least five times, and each time was more crowded than the time before.

My most recent visit was in spring 2024—and wow! I couldn’t believe the size of the crowds as well as how little there was to do once I reached the second level and circumnavigated the tower to view Paris from all directions.

Go Up the Eiffel Tower in the Evening

Of my five visits, my favorite was the one I took in the evening a few years ago. The crowds were thin and the view over the sparkling lights of Paris magical.

A breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower illuminated against the night sky, with reflections in the nearby Seine River.

If you can manage to find a time when the Eiffel Tower is not crowded then sure, take a ride up to at least the second level.

Purchase Tickets in Advance

Whenever you decide to go, buy your ticket well in advance. You’ll probably still have to queue, but not for as long as you would without a ticket. Also, if you don’t get your ticket in advance, you risk not being able to get in at all if the tower is at capacity.

Here’s the official website for purchasing tickets to the Eiffel Tower.

Riding to the Tippy Top

Don’t be fooled by tours that say they include the summit. They may not, so you really need to double-check. If you have your heart set on going to the summit of the Eiffel Tower, then book your tickets on the official website as far in advance (up to three months) as you can. Spots book up really fast.

At the top, you’ll enjoy the highest view from two floors–one open-air and the other enclosed. You’ll also see a reconstruction of Gustave Eiffel’s office and a tableaux of wax models depicting Gustave Eiffel and his daughter Claire receiving the famous American inventor, Thomas Edison.

Should You Consider a Guided Tour?

On my most recent visit to the Eiffel Tower, I chose a guided tour because I (mistakenly as it turned out) thought it would take me to the very tippy top. It did not.

Basically, a guide takes you to a long line and waits with you while occasionally regaling you with facts and figures about the Eiffel Tower. At the second level, the guide bids you farewell and you’re on your own to enjoy the view.

Here’s a brief summary of my Eiffel Tower tour experience so you can decide for yourself if the 50+ Euro price tag is worth it.

My Tour of the Eiffel Tower

I arrive at the Eiffel Tower with moments to spare before the tour is to begin, only to discover I’m in the wrong place.

HINT: Double-check the meeting place for the tour; it likely is not at the entrance to the Eiffel Tower. In the case of the tour I took, the meeting place was a brisk ten-minute walk away.

A ground-level shot of the Eiffel Tower framed by trees, emphasizing its grandeur and architectural beauty.

I run to where the guide is supposed to be, arriving ten minutes late to find her waiting and not at all worried. After joining her and eight other people, I briskly retrace my steps back to the base of the Eiffel Tower where we wait a good thirty minutes, which is about ninety minutes less than the wait for people without tickets, to ride the elevator to the second stage.

I ask if we’re going to the top.

Non, Madame.

But it says in the tour description that we go to the top…

Non, Madame. Second level only.

Oh.

I resolve to enjoy myself and get my 50 euros worth (pretty much double the cost of a regular ticket). The guide’s commentary is interesting, although I’m the only person who listens to it. The other people on the tour are either not interested or don’t speak English, or both.

Some History of the Eiffel Tower

I’m working on a novel set in the late 1880s during the time when the Eiffel Tower was being constructed. The novel includes a character modeled after the brave souls who, in the frigid winter before the Eiffel Tower opened for the 1889 World Exposition, climbed higher and higher every day to bang rivets into a structure that at the time was a marvel of engineering (and still is). Two men lost their lives building the Eiffel Tower (although not my character).

The guide doesn’t tell me very much that I haven’t already read during my research about Gustave Eiffel and the history of his tower. Construction of the Eiffel Tower began in 1888 and finished in May 1889 just in time for the opening of the 1889 Paris Exposition that celebrated the 100th anniversary of the storming of the Bastille, which marked the beginning of the French Revolution. Over 32 million people attended, which is a lot of people in 1889!

If you’re looking for in-depth information about a site, you’re not likely to find it on a tour designed for the general public. You’d be better off connecting with an expert and arranging a private tour.

Riding Up to the Second Level

It takes about an hour to finally get up to the second level of the Eiffel Tower. The two elevators are crowded and hot, and the ride isn’t all that exciting. I snag a place by the window to snap photos and face away from the germs. If you are at all claustrophobic, you may wish to think twice about cramming yourself into the elevators to the first and then the second levels.

A photo taken from inside the Eiffel Tower's elevator, showing the iron lattice framework and the greenery of the Champ de Mars below.

At the Second Level

Once we arrive at the second level, our guide thanks us and returns to Earth, presumably to herd another group up the elevators.

I stroll around the four sides, snap some photos, and feel a bit deflated. The view from the second stage is fine but not particularly breathtaking, even on a sunny day.

An expansive aerial view of Paris, featuring Les Invalides and the Montparnasse Tower, framed by green parks and historic buildings. — View to the south from the Eiffel Tower

A sweeping view of Paris from above, capturing the Seine River, bridges, and iconic Parisian architecture under a partly cloudy sky. — View to the northeast from the Eiffel Tower

I do, however, enjoy snapping photos of the rest of the Eiffel Tower soaring up to the third level that I didn’t get to visit.

A dramatic upward perspective of the Eiffel Tower from the second level, showcasing its intricate ironwork against a clear blue sky.

After the Tour

After taking as many pictures as I can and circumnavigating the second level at least twice to get my money’s worth, I descend to the bottom and snap lots of photos in the beautiful golden light. The nearby gardens are particularly fetching.

A serene view of a lush garden with a pond surrounded by trees and bushes, under a bright blue sky with scattered clouds.

View from below the Eiffel Tower showcasing its intricate iron latticework structure against a bright blue sky, with sunlight streaming through the open arches.

A Paris Traffic Jam

With the sun starting to set, I go in search of a bus. I can’t find the right stop and finally admit defeat and hail a taxi. The traffic is practically gridlocked. I can probably walk back to where I’m staying near Boulevard Saint Michel faster. The driver entertains me with a lot of voluble French commentary about the shocking state of the circulation in Paris, the bicycles, the other cars, the stupid pedestrians, etc. As the fare creeps up over twenty euros (I have a 20-euro bill clutched in my hand), I reach for my wallet. He gestures for me to put it away.

Non, non, madame. Il est vignt.

He waves away the number on the meter as if to make it disappear. I gather he’s not going to charge me more than the twenty euros that I have ready to pay him because the traffic is so bad. That’s very kind of him!

Where Are the Rude Parisians?

My taxi driver drops me at my destination, cheerfully takes the twenty and wishes me a bonne journée. I’ve yet to meet the fabled rude Parisians who are supposedly abundant in Paris.

In my experience over many, many trips to Paris, the Parisians are almost uniformly helpful, friendly, and good-humored. They also frequently like to make jokes. The night before, the clerk at the supermarket, after being asked the way out, shakes his head and tells us gravely that there is no way out, and that we will be locked in and have to stay the night. He then laughs and leads us to the exit where he merrily scans our items while telling us all about his brother who is moving to Calgary.

Tours of the Eiffel Tower

If you’ve decided to go up the Eiffel Tower, you have two choices. Either purchase a tour to get some commentary along with your elevator ride or go it alone with tickets you’ve purchased in advance. While I can’t say the tour I took was worth the extra euros, it did give me the chance to talk about the Eiffel Tower with the guide and glean a few more useful bits of information for my research.

Here are some ticket and tour options offered by GetYourGuide:

Conclusion

I love the Eiffel Tower! It’s the symbol of Paris, and it’s beautiful and iconic and just so cool. I’m fascinated by how it was built, I love taking pictures of it, and I even include it on the cover of one of my novels (Love Among the Recipes). I’m writing a new novel featuring the Eiffel Tower at the beginning of its life. So yes, I think the Eiffel Tower is awesome!

But I also think that you’d not be missing a whole lot if you decided to skip waiting in long lines (even with a ticket and/or a tour) for what is essentially an elevator ride.

Illustration of the book cover for "Love Among the Recipes" by Carol M. Cram, featuring a basket with bread, cheese, and wine on top of a stack of cookbooks, with a blue background showing Paris landmarks, including the Eiffel Tower.

Spend your time touring some of the world’s best museums, enjoy a café crème at a sidewalk café, take a cruise on the Seine, snap pics of the Eiffel Tower to your heart’s content, and relax in Paris’s lovely parks (the Luxembourg Gardens is my fave).

Here are more posts about being an Artsy Traveler in Paris:

And for my take on touring another of Europe’s iconic sites, check out Should You Make the Climb to the Acropolis of Athens?

Nine Great Reasons To Visit Meteora in Greece

Destinations, Greece Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:47 pm

Meteora is located in the Thessaly region in northern Greece and is out-of-this-world spectacular. And with over three million visitors annually, it’s been well and truly discovered.

When Julia (daughter and travel companion on my trip to Greece) first showed me pictures of the stunning rock columns of Meteora and told me she was going to include it in our itinerary,

I was both intrigued and excited. I’d seen the pictures of monasteries perched atop rock columns, but I never realized they were accessible to visitors.

Pinterest graphic with the text Nine Great Reasons to Visit Meteora in Greece over two scenes of the rock formations and monasteries in Meteora.

Very accessible as it turns out, so long as you have the knees for lots of climbing. Only one of the six monasteries (there used to be 24 monasteries) doesn’t require climbing.

In this travel guide to visiting Meteora, I describe my two-night and one full day trip to Meteora from Athens en route to Delphi, list the six monasteries, and share my top reasons and travel tips why you should definitely add Meteora to your list of must-see places in Greece.

Overview of Meteora

The region known as Meteora is located in Thessaly in northern Greece, about a four-hour drive from Athens. This spectacular area with its ancient monasteries perched atop spectacular rock formations is included on the World Heritage List.

Kalambaka (#1 on the map below and the main town sometimes referred to as Kalabaka) and its smaller sibling Kastraki (#2) at the towns in the Meteora region where you’ll find accommodations and restaurants.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

A Suggested Itinerary for Visiting Meteora

While you could book a tour as a day trip from Athens to Meteora, I wouldn’t advise it. The distances are just too great to allow enough time to enjoy this most spectacular of destinations.

You’ll spend most of your time on a bus and see one or two of the Meteora monasteries along with thousands of other visitors, and you’ll not have time to view the famous Meteora sunset (a must-do), hike around some of the Meteora rocks, or explore lovely little Kalambaka.

So, first off, plan to stay in Meteora for at least one night. Two nights are better to give you a full day in which to enjoy both a morning and a sunset tour, explore Kalambaka and maybe go on a short hike.

You’ll easily find things to do in Meteora to fill your time.

Our trip to Meteora was organized by Visit Meteora which took care of the transfers and booking two excellent tours that I can highly recommend. Both were small group tours (my favorite kind). You could also book each component separately.

Here’s a 2-day trip that includes one overnight in Meteora and tours of the monasteries.

Day 1: Traveling to Meteora

Pick-up at 8 am in Athens (#10) for the four-hour drive on a large bus to Meteora (#9)
Arrival in Kalambaka and transfer to a shuttle bus that drops us at the Hotel Theatro Odysseum (recommended)
Leisurely lunch in Kalambaka (great food and relaxed ambiance)
Pick-up from the hotel for a four-hour small group tour called the Sunset Tour that visits the Monastery of Saint Stephen (actually a nunnery) and a church, includes a walk to see the caves where the first monks lived, and culminates with a stop high above the valley to take in breathtaking views of the sunset

Here’s a Sunset Tour you can take from Kalabaka or Kastraki that includes the hermit caves and of course, the breathtaking sunset over the Meteora rock formations and monasteries.

Day 2: All Day to Enjoy Meteora

Pick-up at the hotel for a three-hour small group tour of Meteora that visits two of the monasteries not included on the Sunset Tour itinerary
Leisurely lunch in Kalambaka
Free afternoon and evening to enjoy the pool at Theatro Hotel Odysseon (or you could go hiking)

Six Monasteries at Meteora

The 6 monasteries that are open to the public in Meteora are:

Holy Monastery of Great Meteoron (#3): a male monastery founded around 1340 that is the oldest and largest of all the monasteries of Meteora. The ancient kitchens are interesting.
Holy Monastery of Varlaam (#4): the second largest monastery, founded in the mid-14^th century by a monk named Varlaam. The frescoes inside the church are particularly beautiful.
Roussanou Nunnery (#5): one of the most traditional of the monasteries and not as crowded as some of the others. To access, walk down from the main road through a lovely forest to reach the steps leading up to the monastery. It feels very peaceful here.
Saint Stephen Nunnery (#7): connected by a small stone bridge to the road and the easiest of the six monasteries to access. As a result, it’s also one of the most crowded.
Holy Trinity Monastery (#8): situated atop a rocky precipice over 400 meters high, it’s reached via 130 steps. The view from the top is stunning (which is saying something).
Saint Nicholas Anapafsas Monastery (#6): the first monastery you come across after leaving Kastraki and the least visited.

Check to make sure the monastery you want to visit is open on the day of the week you are in Meteora. Here are the closing days in summer. Note that in the winter season, most monasteries are closed for at least two days each week. Check Meteora.com for details.

Great Meteoran: Tuesday
Varlaam: Friday
Rousanou: Wednesday
Saint Nicholas Anapafsas: Friday
St. Stephen: Monday
Holy Trinity: Thursday

Which Meteora Monasteries to Visit

This is a question visitors often ask when planning their visit to Meteora. During the two tours we took, we visited St. Stephen, Great Meteoron, and Roussanou. Each of them is quite similar and includes plenty of stairs (except for St. Stephen), a chapel, a souvenir shop (always), possibly a museum, and amazing views.

I suggest picking just two or three to visit. You’ll get the general idea pretty quickly, and you’ll likely see the monasteries you don’t visit from the vantage points of the monasteries you do visit.

If you don’t like crowds, select one of the smaller monasteries such as Roussanou.

Note that each monastery charges an entrance fee of three euros.

The roads winding around the stone pillars offer plenty of viewpoints you can stop at to take photos. Both of the tours we took included frequent stops to take pictures.

Best Time to Visit Meteora

I visited Meteora in September and the weather was perfect–warm, but not too hot. Some of the monasteries were crowded, but not nearly as crowded as I understood they can get.

Our tour guides timed the monastery visits to avoid the largest influx of tour busses, many coming all the way from Athens.

I suggest visiting the monasteries either right after they open or just before they close. An hour is usually more than sufficient to tour a monastery.

Now that you know how to organize your time in Meteora, here are my reasons why you must visit (including plenty of recommendations!).

Nine Reasons for Visiting Meteora

1. Stunning Geological Formations

First and foremost, the scenery around Meteora is beyond incredible. The geological formations—shaped 60 million years ago—must be seen to be believed. Pictures give some idea of the size of the formations, but they cannot prepare you for their jaw-dropping grandeur.

On both tours we took in Meteora, we learned about the geological shenanigans required to shape such an incredible landscape. It’s quite a story!

The rock columns are omnipresent, visible from both Kalambaka and Kastraki. You’ll likely be staying in one of these towns during your visit.

Every time you step out of your hotel (or look out your window if you spring for a view), you’ll gaze up, up, up at these jagged formations and marvel at how they change with the passing of the sun across their grey flanks.

2. Fascinating History of the Monasteries

The geological formations alone would be reason enough to visit Meteora, but even more interesting is the fact that around 1100 AD, a group of intrepid monks moved into caves embedded in the rock columns.

After a few centuries, some even more intrepid monks decided they weren’t isolated enough in caves, so they started building monasteries on top of the rock columns.

Until recently, the only way to get from the valley up to a monastery was to rock climb or be cranked up in a basket. Rock climbing involved pounding sticks into the soft rocks.

One of the guides told us that the sticks sometimes broke. I couldn’t help wondering how many skeletons are buried in the deep valleys surrounding the rock pillars.

The sheer ingenuity and courage required to build and inhabit the first monasteries is mind-boggling.

Visiting the Monasteries

The six monasteries that welcome visitors are the big draw here. Two of the monasteries in Meteora are actually nunneries. There are approximately 50 nuns and 17 monks still living in the active monasteries of Meteora.

Visiting the Monastery of Saint Stephen

Saint Stephen is the only monastery in Meteora that is easily accessed from the road and does not require climbing long flights of steps that in the summer heat could be very challenging.

Unfortunately, everyone and their cousin who comes to Meteora on any day except Monday (when the place is closed) visits Saint Stephen monastery.

It’s the only place where we saw monastic people. Nuns dressed all in black with serene faces took tickets and sat next to the cash register in the gift shop.

Modest Dress Required

When we arrived, a box of scarves was made available to women who were wearing shorts or pants. Modest dress for men and women is required, and women are required to wear dresses, so even if you are wearing pants that cover your knees, you must also wrap a long scarf around your waist so it falls past your knees.

Although I was wearing a dress, I worried it didn’t sufficiently cover my knees and so I grabbed a scarf. However, it wasn’t any longer than my dress so was kind of useless.

At another monastery the next day, the attendant told me my dress was fine.

Sign at a monastery in Meteora about modest dress

What to See

St. Stephen includes a church, a small museum, a gift shop, and spectacular views—which for most people is the real attraction.

The monasteries at Meteora were originally built between the 14^th and 16^th centuries. Time and wars (several of the monasteries were bombed during WWII) have destroyed most of them. Those remaining have been heavily renovated.

Other Monasteries

Each of the three monasteries we visited during the Sunset and Morning Tours of Meteora include a church, a museum, and a gift shop. I was most fascinated by the remains of the mechanisms used back in the day to hoist provisions and monks up the side of the cliffs.

Winch used to hoist people and goods up to monasteries in Meteora

Nowadays, stairs have been cut into the rock—and there are a lot of them. Meteora is not a great place to visit if you have mobility issues—or if you don’t like crowds.

Julia on stairs climbing up to a monastery in Meteora

Frescoes in the Monasteries

Beautiful frescoes adorn each of the churches we visited. Photos are not allowed, although I saw several people snapping pics despite warnings from attendants.

There’s a heavy emphasis in the frescoes on depictions of the many and gruesome ways in which the early Christian saints and martyrs were tortured, mostly by the Romans, who were quite the hideously creative lot.

Most frescoes are quite new, having been painted during the rebuilding of the monasteries, some since WWII, so the pictures are alarmingly vivid and graphic.

I did manage to get one picture in a chapel where photos were allowed.

View from the Monasteries

The views from each of the monasteries are stupendous, unworldly even. No wonder Game of Thrones petitioned to shoot here.

The monks said no because they didn’t approve of any production that involved violence. Unfortunately, their refusal to allow on-location shooting didn’t stop the production company from taking a panorama of the area and then using it in the last episode of the first season.

Kind of sneaky, if you ask me.

3. Beautiful Ancient Churches and Precipitous Cave Dwellings

Take time to visit the ancient and evocative Church of the Virgin Mary in Kalambaka. Erected between the 10^th and 11^th centuries AD, this Byzantine church was built upon the ancient foundations of Greek and Roman temples. Many of the stones were incorporated into the current church.

Frescoes adorn the interior dominated by a marble pulpit that is unique in Greece. It rises imposingly at the center of the church in front of the Holy Gate.

During our Sunset Tour of Meteora, we hiked a short way up a gravel road to view the cliffs containing caves that once housed hermits. The wooden structures are medieval and intact because rock overhangs protect them from the elements.

Can you imagine monks living in those caves high up the rock faces?

Caves where early holy men lived in Meteora

4. Informative Small Group Tours

If you have a rental car, you can easily visit as many of the open monasteries as you wish. Alternatively, you can opt for a guided tour. Both the tours organized by Visit Meteora were first-rate, with tour guides who grew up in the area and were passionate about sharing the history of Meteora.

Finding a Meteora Tour

Several tour companies offer tours and activities in Meteora. If you arrive in Meteora without first booking a tour, just wander along the main street in Kalambaka and you’ll soon find a company selling local tours by bus, private car, hiking, or cycling.

If you have the funds, discover Meteora on a private tour. That way, you can choose which monasteries you want to visit and also ask your guide to take you to some out-of-the way places to escape the crowds.

Parking Woes at Meteora Monasteries

Parking is limited at the monasteries and a lot of the available space is taken up by massive tour busses. If you take a small group tour, you’ll be dropped right at the entrance to each monastery.

If you drive, you’re likely in for a long walk uphill from wherever you can find a parking place along the road.

In this photo taken from a monastery, you can see the cars and tour busses parked all along the road.

View from a monastery in Meteora showing cars and busses.

5. Breathtaking Sunsets

High above the valley are several sunset-watching spots from which you can bask in the rays of the setting sun. Adventurous souls walk far out onto the rocks to get the perfect shot. I didn’t venture too close to the edge, but I still enjoyed some remarkable views.

Julia walked farther out to the edge and took this video.

6. Charming Small Towns

We stayed in Kalambaka, which is the larger of the two Meteora towns. The central area with its smattering of outdoor cafes and a cooling fountain is charming and laid-back.

Julia in the small town of Kalambaka in a monastery in Meteora

At one restaurant, the server had just moved from Canada where she grew up back to Greece. We enjoyed a great conversation with her while chowing down on yet another tasty Greek meal.

7. Good Accommodation Options

Both Kalambaka and Kastraki have a variety of accommodation options at reasonable prices.

The Hotel Theatro Odysseum where we stayed had comfortable rooms, each themed around a movie and including large photographs of actors and actresses. The staff were friendly, the pool a bit on the chilly side in late September, and the views of the iconic granite columns spectacular.

View of the pool from the Hotel Theatro Odysseum in a monastery in Meteora

8. Plenty of Hiking and Cycling Opportunities

If you’re energetic, you can hike around the rocks and into the valleys that do not have monasteries nearby and so are free of tour busses and gift shops.

You can also rent ebikes to scale the steep roads with ease, although I’m not sure I’d want to share the roads with the many massive tour busses.

The landscape is wild and beautiful away from the tourist beat, and it doesn’t take long to leave the main roads behind. You could easily spend a week exploring all the area has to offer.

View over the geological formations in Meteora

9. Easy to Reach From Athens

As noted previously, Meteora is about 350 kilometers from Athens, with busses being the only public transit option apart from flying. Visit Meteora organized our transport to Meteora which included a shuttle bus to our hotel and the two tours in addition to a private transfer from Meteora to Delphi.

If you’re driving, you can go on to explore more of northern Greece. West of Meteora the town of Thessaloniki and the island of Corfu—a destination that is definitely on my to-visit-next list.

Tours to Meteora

Check out some of the tours offered through GetYourGuide or connect with Visit Meteora directly.

Conclusion

Meteora will surprise and delight you. For me, the big attraction is the geological formations, the views, and the town of Kalambaka.

I was less interested in the monasteries which I found too crowded and commercialized. I can’t imagine many of the full-time inhabitants enjoy a particularly contemplative life there. Perhaps that is why the number of monks and nuns continues to dwindle every year.

Have you visited Meteora? Share your recommendations in the Comments below.

Here are more posts about Greece:

What to See at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens

Arts & Culture, Destinations, Greece, Museums Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:47 pm

The National Archaeological Museum in Athens is the largest archaeological museum in Greece and a must-see while visiting Athens.

As one of the world’s most important museums devoted to ancient Greek art, the National Archaeological Museum in Athens showcases centuries of ancient Greek history.

You’ll find artifacts from the earliest inhabitants to the Romans displayed in several large rooms. Information about each exhibit is provided in both English and Greek.

Pinterest graphic with the text What to See at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens over a picture of a Minoan wall painting on the top and the facade of the museum on the bottom.

Orientation to the National Archaeological Museum in Athens

The National Archeological Museum (#1 on the map below) is about a twenty-minute walk or a short taxi ride from the center of Athens where you’ll likely be spending most of your time. Here’s a map showing the location of the museum along with other Athens landmarks.

Trip map courtesy of Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

Don’t be tempted to skip the National Archaeological Museum in favor of the more modern Acropolis Museum. Both museums offer different takes on the ancient world and both are well worth your time. If possible, schedule your visits on different days so you don’t get over-loaded!

In this post, I feature my favorite pieces from the Prehistoric Antiquities and Sculpture collections. Take your time wandering through the Archaeological Museum. It’s large, but not overwhelming. Many of the rooms are quite spacious and, at least when I was there in September, not crowded.

Prehistoric Antiquities at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens

Your first stop after entering the museum is the area featuring unique works of art from the major civilizations that flourished in Greece and the Aegean Sea area from the 7th millennium (that’s a long time ago) to around 1050 BC.

Discover works from the Neolithic period and the Bronze Age. Some of the most significant artifacts come from the royal tombs of Mycenae. You’ll also view evocative Cycladic marble figurines and the astonishingly well-preserved wall paintings from Thera (aka Santorini).

Mycenean Collection

Two of the many show-stoppers in the Mycenean collection are gold masks dating from the 16th century BC. The mask on the left is known as the mask of Agamemnon.

The Mask of Agamemnon at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

Gold mask part of the Mycenean collection at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

Having already visited Mycenae (see my post on the two days I spent in Nafplio during which I took a semi-private tour to Mycenae), I enjoyed seeing even more of the artifacts from that period. The Mycenaean civilization flourished between 1600 and 1100 BC, and was a wealthy and very influential culture. The beauty and intricacy of the objects, many rendered in gold, is astonishing.

Cycladic Antiquities

I’m glad I chose to visit the Archaeological Museum of Athens at the end of my trip around Greece. I had more context for understanding what I was looking at. During my visit to the Cyclades (Santorini and Naxos), I visited several small museums featuring Cycladic art and already knew a little bit about it.

I especially loved the almost alien-looking marble sculptures with their smooth surfaces and blank eyes. This little guy is playing a double flute and dates from 2800 to 2300 BC.

Cycladic figure at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

Antiquities of Thera

Thera is the proper name for Santorini, which was the first stop on my trip to Greece. While there, I visited the archaeological site at Akrotiri (check out my post on Santorini) where many of the artifacts in the National Archeological Museum come from.

Before it was destroyed in a volcanic eruption, Akrotiri included public spaces and three-story houses decorated with wall paintings, many of which have survived in remarkably good condition. Here are two of them. The stylization, color combinations, and sheer delicate beauty of the paintings took my breath away.

Painting from Thera at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

Also featured in the collection at the National Archaeological Museum are some amazing pots, my favorites being these two. It’s hard to believe that these were painted in the 16th century BC. They look so modern!

Large jug from Thera at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

Large jug showing grapes from Thera at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

Sculpture Collection at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens

The sculpture collection occupies several rooms at the museum and presents the evolution of ancient Greek sculpture from 700 BC to the 5th century AD. The collection includes over 16,000 sculptures from archaeological sites all over Greece, not all of which are on display. Four periods are represented: Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, and Roman.

Archaic Sculptures

My faves are the sculptures from the Archaic Period. While I appreciate the much more realistic sculptures from later periods, there’s something about the stiff, upright, far-seeing Kouros statues that just gets to me. They are over life-size and not realistic, but then they don’t pretend to be. This one is made of Naxian marble and was a votive offering to Poseidon.

Classical Sculptures

The sculptures from the classical period date from the 5th century BC. Democracy had been established in Athens and various military victories at the battles of Marathon and Plataea had resulted in an era of intellectual creativity, material prosperity, and democratic consolidation. Artists flocked to the city, and by the peak of the century, sculptors were drawing their inspiration from the idealized human body.

You’ll find a great many wonderful sculptures from the classical period to check out. One of the most famous is the statue of Poseidon. He dominates one of the rooms with his great set of abs and one arm poised to throw his trident into the waves. This imposing statue was found at the bottom of the sea in 460 BC.

Hellenistic Sculptures

The Hellenistic period runs from the late 4th to the early 1st century BC. Figures were rendered realistically, rather than in the idealized way they tended to be in the Classical period.

I was drawn to the theater masks made from marble. This one dates from the 2nd century BC and is modeled after masks used in comedy.

Theater mask at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

This grouping from 340 BC is pretty amazing, and one of several similar sculptures that were created as grave reliefs. Look at the details in the hair and beard, and the expressions on the faces!

Group of sculptured figures at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

Roman Sculptures

I got the impression while traveling around Greece that the Greeks are still none too happy that the Romans invaded their country back in the day. Occasionally, a guide would disparagingly note that a particular ruin was Roman, and they didn’t mean it as a compliment. From the 2nd century BC onwards, Greece was gradually conquered by the Romans until their eventual dominance in 31 BC.

Many of the artistic treasures of Greece were taken to Rome, which probably didn’t go over too well with the locals. Eventually, new local workshops were established to satisfy the demand for copies of Classical and Hellenistic works and by the 2nd century AD, Athens was again an artistic center.

Here are two of the many Roman sculptures in the museum. On the left is an intriguing bronze portrait statue of the empress Julia Aquilia Severa (AD 220). She doesn’t look particularly happy. On the right is a rather fine statue of the goddess Hygieia dating from AD 200 that was found at the sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidauros which we visited while staying in Nafplion.

Bronze Roman sculpture at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

Marble Roman sculpture at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

The Jockey

One of the most famous pieces in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens is known as The Artemision Jockey. This bronze statue of a horse and jockey dates from around 140 BC, and was retrieved in pieces between 1928 and 1937 from the sea floor off Cape Artemision. Check out the boy’s expression. He’s so focused on handling his massive steed. This huge piece takes pride of place in the museum and no wonder. It’s truly remarkable.

Other Collections at the Archaeological Museum in Athens

The museum also includes a wonderful collection of metalwork, with its Bronze collection reputed to be one of the finest in the world. In addition, you’ll find an extensive collection of vases, many with the distinctive black and gold coloring.

I never get tired of studying these ancient vases with their intricately drawn scenes. If I ever decide to write a novel set in ancient Greece, I can see myself spending a lot of time studying the imagery on the vases to learn what people wore and how they lived.

Check out this vase depicting a man placing a child on a swing. Sweet or what?

Greek vase at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

And just in case you haven’t yet slaked your appetite for looking at antiquities, check out the Egyptian and Cypriot collections, both world renowned.

Practical Information

From November 1 to March 31, the National Archaeological Museum in Athens is open from Wednesday to Monday from 8:30 am to 3:30 pm and on Tuesdays from 1:00 pm to 8:00 pm. From April 1 to October 31, the museum is open from Wednesday to Monday from 8:30 am to 8:00 pm and on Tuesdays from 1:00 pm to 8:00 pm. The museum is closed on December 25 – 26, January 1, March 25, May 1 and Orthodox Easter Sunday. Admission costs 12€ from April 1 to October 31 and 6€ from November 1 to March 31.

Where to Stay in Athens

On our recent trip to Athens, we stayed in two places: a holiday apartment for two nights and a hotel for one night. I highly recommend both, which are in neighborhoods convenient for sightseeing in Athens.

Karma Apartments

Steps from the lively Plaka district on a quiet side street, Karma Apartments is a real find in Athens. The one-bedroom apartment on the top floor of a building containing other holiday lets includes a large terrace with a peekaboo view of the Acropolis.

Hotel Lozenge

On our last night in Greece, we stayed at the Hotel Lozenge in the upscale Kolonaki neighbourhood. This is a great choice for a business-style hotel with comfortable rooms, an attached restaurant, and very helpful staff.

Tours of Athens

Here are some tours of Athens from GetYourGuide.

Conclusion

Athens is more than its antiquities, but wow, they sure do have incredible antiquities! Take the time to wander through the rooms at the National Archaeological Museum to marvel at the some of the most beautiful sculptures and other objects ever made by human hands. And then when you’re done, go enjoy a tasty Greek meal (every meal I had was tasty!) and relax.

You’re in Athens and life is good. Here are more posts about travels in Greece:

Have you visited the National Archaeological Museum in Athens? Share your comments and recommendations in the Comments below.

How to Spend a Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Athens

Destinations, Greece, Perfect Day Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:46 pm

In one day in Athens, you can easily see and enjoy a good taste of what this wonderful and historic city has to offer the Artsy Traveler.

For a perfect Artsy Traveler day in Athens, I suggest taking a walking tour, strolling around some of the lesser-visited archeological sites and visiting either the National Archeological Museum or the Acropolis Museum.

Pinterest graphic with the text A Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Athens over a picture of a quaint village street in Athens with te view of the Acropolis beyound.

Later in the afternoon, stop at Syntagma (Constitution) Square to watch the Changing of the Guard, and then end your perfect Artsy Traveler day with an evening performance of folk dancing at the Dora Stratou Theatre, followed by dinner and a spot of souvenir shopping in the lively Plaka district.

What About the Acropolis?

I don’t include the Acropolis as part of a Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Athens, not because it’s not worth visiting (it certainly is!), but because it’s likely already on your agenda. Visit the Acropolis in the late afternoon the day before your perfect day in Athens. It’s the star attraction, but once you’ve seen it, you can relax and explore all the other wonderful sites and experiences that Athens has to offer.

For my take on how to enjoy the Acropolis, check out Should You Make the Climb to the Acropolis in Athens.

Here’s how I suggest you spend your perfect Artsy Traveler day in Athens.

Orientation to Athens

Athens is a very large city, and you may at first be worried, as I was, that it will be too busy and crowded for comfort. You’ll likely be pleasantly surprised. The area of Athens that most interests visitors is compact and easy to navigate. You’ll find many pedestrianized streets, some leafy squares and gardens, and a general aura of calm.

While you may expect tooting horns and pollution, you’re more likely to experience laid-back and cheerful.

Here’s a map showing the locations mentioned in this post.

Map created using Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

Morning on A Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Athens

Start your perfect Artsy Traveler day with a walking tour. If you’re visiting during hot weather, the streets in the morning will be shadier and the air cooler. You can find plenty of walking tours in Athens; I recommend a GuruWalk.

Hidden Gems GuruWalk of Athens

On its website, GuruWalk claims that “the best free walking tour guides in the world are here.” The company provides access to an international community of pay-what-you-please walking tours. They call their guides “gurus” and describe them as “open, attentive, fun people with great knowledge of the city.”

I recommend the Hidden Gems tour of Athens with GuruWalk guide Anastasios, who enthusiastically shared his love of Greek history—and especially ancient Greek history—on a two-hour tour that took us up the slopes of the Acropolis.

Meeting the Hidden Gems Tour

You’ll meet the tour in a small park in front of the Monument of Lycicrates (#1 on the map) near the Diogenis restaurant in the Plaka area (#3), not far from my recommended accommodation at Karma Suites (#2). When I took the tour, I joined about twenty-five people from all over the world: Belgium, Spain, Italy, England, Lithuania, Brazil, Denmark, the US, and Julia and me from Canada.

The tour involved quite a bit of walking up steep stairs and along very narrow lanes. One of the first stops was the tiny neighborhood of Anafiotika, located under the northeastern side of the Acropolis Hill in the middle of historical Plaka.

Anafiotika

Our guide Anastasios informed the group that Anafiotika (#4) was built by workers who came from the Cyclades Islands (Santironi, Mykonos, Naxos, et al) to build Plaka in the early 19^th century.

Here’s a view of one of the narrow, picturesque streets with the Acropolis looming above.

View of the charming neighborhood of Anafliotika with the Acropolis in the background

The workers built their homes in the island style—white-washed, thick-walled houses clustered around tiny lanes, some barely wide enough to fit a lumbering donkey. How they managed to get furniture into their houses in anyone’s guess, although Anastasios mentioned that most of the homes have been abandoned because the area was made part of the archeological site of the Acropolis. A few families still live there, but unofficially.

Progressing Around the Acropolis

Anastasios provided an excellent “Hidden Gems” tour of the area around the Acropolis. He stopped frequently at places with walls to perch on so participants could listen in comfort as he talked about history and philosophy, and shared tips about how to get the best out of our Athens visit.

You’ll find his historical stories–told with enthusiasm and pride–fascinating. He really knows his history and is obviously happy to share what he knows. You’ll learn just how much we owe to the ancient Greeks—theater, philosophy, architecture, democracy, mathematics, medicine—the list goes on and on.

GuruWalk guide Anastasios on the Hidden Gems walking tour

At the end of the tour, Anastasios directed participants to his GuruWalk page where he’d listed his recommendations for Athens, including the best places to view the sunset as well as good restaurants in the area.

If you’re visiting Athens, sign up for the Hidden Gems tour. You’ll learn a lot, see some places you’d never find on your own, and get a good work-out. Despite a lot of steep climbing, fortunately the pace is pleasingly sedate with frequent stops to sit and listen.

Exploring Athens

Agora & Archeological Sites on the Combo Ticket

Spend some of your perfect Artsy Traveler day in Athens checking out the Agora (#5) and other archeological sites. I suggest you purchase the combo ticket when you visit the Acropolis so that you can tour up to six more archeological sites.

The Agora is a large area littered with ruined bits of ancient Greece. It’s peaceful, uncrowded, and verdant, with plenty of scope for the imagination. It’s not much of a stretch to visualize ancient Greeks going about their business—buying, selling, eating, drinking, arguing, and loving, just like modern Greeks are still doing in the streets adjacent to the Agora.

A highlight is the Temple of Hephaestus (#6), the god of blacksmiths. This very impressive temple takes pride of place on a slight rise and is highly photogenic—far more so than its big brother up on top of the Acropolis. The temple is scaffolding-free and in surprisingly good nick.

Temple of Hephaestus in the Agora in Athens

Lunch in Monastiraki

The chef who ran the cooking class that Julia and I took in Nafplio (see Explore Greek Cuisine in a Savor Nafplio Cooking Class) recommended we visit a famous deli in the Monastiraki district. I definitely recommend you check this place out for lunch. Called Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani (#7), it’s crowded, lively, and full of both tourists and locals.

And the food! We ordered and quickly devoured a meat and cheese board.

Meat and cheese board at a deli in Monastiraki

Although we arrived without a reservation, we were quickly seated in the back courtyard. Service was fast and the food delicious.

Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani in Monastiraki

Shops in Monastiraki

This lively and very Greek-feeling area is full of interesting food shops. Take some time to wander the narrow streets and check out the many displays of meats, herbs, and other foods hanging from open doorways.

National Archeological Museum

Allocate at least two to three hours to tour the marvelous National Archeological Museum(#8) . You can get there via Uber (which is actually just a local taxi) or walk for about twenty minutes from Monastiraki.

While not as state-of-the-art and modern as the Acropolis Museum (#11), the National Archeological Museum is still an Athens must-see. It’s the largest archaeological museum in Greece and one of the world’s most important museums devoted to ancient Greek art.

Centuries of ancient Greek history, from the earliest inhabitants to the Romans, are displayed in several large rooms. Information about each exhibit is provided in both English and Greek so it’s easy to tour the museum and figure out what you’re looking at.

Here are some of the highlights.

Mask of Agammenon at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

Octopus vase at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

For a detailed overview about what to see at the National Archeological Museum, read my post: What To See at The National Archeological Museum in Athens.

Acropolis Museum

You’ll want to visit both the National Archeological Museum and the Acropolis Museum, but not on the same day. I love museums, but even I try to pace myself!

Visit the Acropolis Museum after you visit the Acropolis itself. If you’re in Athens on a Friday, start your visit to the Acropolis around 5 pm, and then descend and visit the museum, which is open until 10 pm.

For more about the Acropolis Museum, check out my post Should You Make the Climb to the Acropolis of Athens?

Syntagma and the Changing of the Guard

After visiting the marvelous National Archeological Museum in Athens, catch another Uber for about five euros to Syntagma (#9), otherwise known as Constitution Square. This area is the heart of modern Athens and the location of the Hellenic Parliament. Your mission is to see the famed Changing of the Guard.

Every hour, the guards who stand in perfect stillness in front of the Parliament participate in a slow, graceful, and achingly beautiful Changing of the Guard ceremony. On Sundays at 11:00 am, a more elaborate ceremony takes place.

The sun was blazing across the façade of the parliament building when we arrived to find two young soldiers dressed in traditional uniform. Their composure and stamina was remarkable. I was relieved to see that they stood under small awnings which presumably gave them some protection from the sun.

Guard standing in front of the Hellenic Parliament in Athens

Who Are The Guards?

The guards are from the elite Evzones unit of the Hellenic Army, and their duty is to guard the Monument of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Hellenic Parliament and the Presidential Mansion. The monument is dedicated to Greek soldiers who were killed in war. The Evzones are symbols of bravery and courage for the Greek people.

Uniform of the Guards

The traditional uniform worn by the guards fascinated me. The day we visited, they wore a light tan jacket, but I’ve seen pictures of them wearing navy blue jackets.

The uniform consists of the farion, the Evzone’s fez, that is made from red baize and features a black silk tuft and the Greek coat of arms; a white shirt with loose sleeves; a handmade waistcoat adorned with several delicate shapes; the fustanella, which is the Greek kilt consisting of 400 folds, each representing one year of the 400-year Ottoman occupation; two socks on each leg; a leather belt that holds the socks; the tsarouchia, which are the traditional red leather shoes (each weighing three kilos!) with a black tuft or what we’d call a pom pom in front; and various other accessories.

Each guard also carries a shotgun.

Gathering of the Crowds

The crowd clustered in a semi-circle about four meters from the two guards. Every so often, an intrepid tourist crossed an invisible line and tried to get close to one of the guards for a photo op. Another guard stationed to the side and wearing army fatigues rather than the traditional uniform yelled at the hapless tourist to get back. He did this several times during the fifty minutes we watched the guards.

I’ve seen pictures of people standing next to the guards, but evidently that practice has been discontinued, which is just as well. Can you imagine how difficult it must be for the guards to stand so still, their faces expressionless, every muscle completely immobile? They don’t need the added aggravation of coping with wayward tourists looking for selfies.

Half-Time Repositioning of the Guard

We arrived just after the Changing of the Guard at the top of the hour and decided to wait. Thirty minutes later, the two guards changed places in a slow march with high kicks that bore witness to incredible core strength and discipline.

After they changed places, the fatigue-wearing guard wiped the sweat from each guard’s brow. It was a touching and powerful testament to both the physical toll the movements must take on the men, but also the incredible respect with which the guards are treated.

Guards changing position in front of the Hellenic Parliament in Athens

Changing of the Guard

Just before the top of the hour, the crowd parted and a contingent of fresh guards marched in. The light had faded and we witnessed the solemn ceremony in awe. At times, I felt moved to tears as I watched the men execute their incredibly slow movements in perfect synchronicity.

Dance Performance

If you’re visiting Athens during the summer, check out the folk dancing show at the Dora Stratou Theatre (#10). This 860-seat garden theater is located on Philopappou Hill, opposite the Acropolis.

Getting there is half the fun! From the Plaka district, you enter the dimly lit (and eerily empty when we visited) pathways that wind through the park surrounding the hill to the theatre. Just when you might start feeling a bit vulnerable with no theatre in site, you’ll arrive at the theatre. On a September evening a few days short of the end of the season, the large outdoor theatre was surprisingly empty.

What a shame! The show is well worth seeing. But be warned. If you visit in spring or in mid-September, like we did, take along a sweater. Since the daytime temperature had hovered around 28 degrees, I’d mistakenly believed that an outdoor concert in the evening would be balmy. Wrong! My light wrap was no match for the chill that began descending halfway through the performance.

What’s in the Show at the Dora Stratou Theatre?

A company of 75 dancers, musicians and folk singers clad in costumes from the theatre’s extensive collection performed for over an hour. The dances come from all over Greece, and are characterized by slow, steady movement interspersed with some fancy moves, mostly by the men.

Dinner in the Plaka

After the performance, stroll back to the Plaka district to enjoy a late dinner. Along the way, you’ll admire floodlit views of the Acropolis. This inspiring vista does not get old. Every time I glance up, I want to pinch myself.

I’m in Athens! This is so cool.

You’ll find plenty of places to eat in the Plaka district which admittedly is a little on the touristy side. But the atmosphere is lively, the food hearty, and the service friendly.

Relaxing at an outside table, dipping pita into fresh tzatziki and chatting about a full Artsy Traveler day in Athens is my kind of travel!

Shopping!

And after dinner? Well, the shops in the Plaka district stay open late, so why not end your day by shopping for souvenirs?

While many of the shops sell pretty schlocky stuff, such Kiss Me, I’m Greek T-shirts, persevere and you’ll find some gems. I found a lovely shop selling textiles and stocked up on placemats, a pillow cover, and tea towels, and Julia snagged a set of ceramic olive oil dispensers.

Where to Stay in Athens

Karma Apartments

Steps from the lively Plaka district but on a quiet side street, Karma Apartments is a real find in Athens. The one-bedroom apartment we were assigned is on the top floor of a building containing other holiday lets, and even includes a large terrace with a peekaboo view of the Acropolis.

Hotel Lozenge

On our last night in Greece, we stayed at the Hotel Lozenge in the upscale Kolonaki neighborhood. This is a great choice for a business-style hotel with comfortable rooms, an attached restaurant, and very helpful staff.

Tours of Athens

Here are some tours of Athens from GetYourGuide.

Conclusion

You can definitely “do” Athens in one full day, although two days is better. Don’t just rush up to the Acropolis and call it a day. Explore some of the neighborhoods—Plaka, Syntagma, the Acropolis area, Monastiraki, Thissio (where the Agora is located), and elegant Kolonaki.

Slow down and enjoy this incredibly historical city. After all, Socrates walked here, and Plato too. Give them their due by walking slowly and breathing the same air they did (more or less). Maybe you’ll be struck by some deep philosophical thoughts that change the course of western civilization.

Here are more posts about travels in Greece:

Have you visited Athens? Share your comments and recommendations in the Comments below.

Things to See at the Design Museum in London

Arts & Culture, Destinations, England, Europe, Museums Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 15th, 2025 at 06:54 pm

London’s new-to-me Design Museum is indeed quite new. Founded in 1989, it moved in 2016 to its spacious digs in South Kensington adjacent to Holland Park from a former 1940s banana warehouse on the South Bank.

Now the Design Museum hosts millions of visitors each year.

And no wonder! The Design Museum’s vision is “A world in which design enables this planet and its inhabitants to thrive.” Innovative exhibitions, partnerships, research and learning programs celebrate design in all its forms.

Pinterest graphic with the text "Enjoying Your Visit to the Design Museum in London" over a picture of the interior of the Design Museum in London, England.

I highly recommend a visit to the Design Museum in London. Unlike many museums that are full of objects we can admire but never use, the Design Museum features objects we all use every day—from teaspoons to computers to cars. It’s fascinating to see the integral role design has played in shaping our modern world. Read on to learn what there is to see and do at the Design Museum in London!

Things to See in the Design Museum in London

Located on Kensington High Street near Holland Park, the Design Museum’s newly renovated building is spacious, airy, and chock full of interesting things to look at.

Admission to the permanent collection at the Design Museum (1) is free, just like so many of London’s major museums including the Victoria and Albert Museum (2), the National Gallery (3), and the British Museum (4).

Trip map created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

In addition to the marvelous permanent collection called Designer Maker User, the Design Museum houses several special exhibitions which do require tickets.

Check the Design Museum’s website to see if any of the special exhibitions interest you, buy your ticket online in advance, and then make sure you save some energy to tour the permanent collection. Tickets for popular exhibitions, such as Barbie: The Exhibition that I saw in September 2024 and the current Tim Burton Exhibition that runs to April 21, 2025, sell out quickly.

Barbie: The Exhibition at the Design Museum in London

If you’re visiting London this fall or winter, then run, don’t walk to see Barbie: The Exhibition before it closes on February 23, 2025. The story of the iconic doll’s evolution from a design and marketing perspective is fascinating.

The bright, colorful (and VERY pink) Barbie exhibition at the Design Museum in London showcases Barbie’s development from her creation in 1959 to her hundreds of iterations today and includes a nod to the 2024 Barbie movie.

Portion of the Barbie exhibition at the Design Museum in London — Part of the very colorful Barbie Exhibition at the Design Museum in London

My First Barbie

I got my first Barbie when I was eight years old, and I remember loving her. I also remember my older brother trying to put my Barbie through the wringer washer. Fortunately, she survived surprisingly intact. That plastic was made to last!

My mom sewed clothes for my Barbie, a monumental achievement considering the teeny tiny size of Barbie clothes. At the time, I took her incredible skill for granted. As I gazed down at the Barbie clothes on display in the Barbie exhibition, I was astonished anew by my mother’s abilities and achievements.

For obvious reasons, I particularly liked the displays of the early Barbies. I remember coveting the high-priced Barbie Dreamhouse and Barbie cars, but they were out of reach for my family. I did know a few very wealthy girls at school who had them and were the envy of us all. Here is a selection of cars from Barbie’s early years.

Barbie Cars at the Design Museum in London

Barbie’s Success Story

Barbie sure is a design success story. The doll has evolved over the years, and while still essentially a stick-thin glamor girl, she has had some iterations that bring her closer to real life. There are different body shapes, different ethnicities and different head shapes.

I’m particularly impressed by all the ways in which Barbie is shown to participate in the world—from Firefighter Barbie to Astronaut Barbie to President Barbie.

Barbie Dolls at the Design Museum in London

Barbie has become a much healthier role model for young girls than she was back in the 1960s. My first dolls were baby dolls in keeping with the emphasis in the 1950s on preparing girls for motherhood. Having a doll that looked glamorous, had long hair that I could brush, and that wore pretty clothes was a revelation. But the concept of a Firefighter Barbie or an Astronaut Barbie or even a Management Consultant Barbie was foreign territory indeed.

So yeah, we’ve come a long way since 1959 when Barbie first hit the market!

I’m Just Ken!

Barbie: The Exhibition does not neglect good ‘ole Ken. I snapped this photo of a collection of Kens standing tall and proud in a case of their own.

Collection of Ken dolls at the Design Museum in London

Exploring the Permanent Collection at the Design Museum in London

After touring Barbie: The Exhibition, I ascended to the third floor to tour the permanent collection of the Design Museum and admire the museum’s interior space.

That to See in the Designer Maker User Collection

The permanent collection at the Design Museum is called Designer Maker User and it’s a stunner! The curators have done an excellent job of explaining various design concepts through the display of everyday objects, from spoons to chairs to computers.

The exhibit features over 1000 objects divided into three segments: Designer, Maker, and User .

Designer at the Design Museum

The objects in the Designer section are displayed in ways that invite the visitor to contemplate the thought process of the designer who must envision how the designed object will be used. I like the quote on one of the information plaques: “The role of the designer stretches from the spoon to the city.”

In this section are displayed objects such as a traffic light, the Anglepoise lamp, and a Tube carriage.

Maker at the Design Museum

The Maker section presents objects in relation to the evolution of manufacturing. Included are café chairs, a Model T Ford, robotic arms, and 3D printers. Objects such as tennis balls and the London 2012 Olympic Torch are presented at different stages of production.

As I wandered through the exhibits, I was constantly amazed by the ingenuity of the human mind. Take tennis, for instance. First, someone had to want a ball they could bounce and hit with a racket. Then, someone else had to figure out how to make a prototype of the ball. Finally, a whole team of brainiacs had to figure out how to manufacture thousands of balls so that anyone who wanted to could play tennis. Mind-boggling!

User at the Design Museum

The User section explores the interaction between people and brands that define the modern world. As a computer user for many decades, I was especially taken by the display of electronics, from the clunky Apple computers of the 1980s to the sleek Macs of today. The red Sony laptop in the picture below is identical to one I had a good twenty years ago. I really liked that computer!

Computers at the Design Museum in London

Crowdsourced Wall at the Design Museum

Outside the Designer User Maker exhibit is the Crowdsourced Wall. Here are displayed more than 200 objects that people from 25 countries nominated as their most important objects. The diverse selection of objects is meant to “demonstrate the intimate relationships we have with the everyday objects that shape our lives.”

Items on display include a red bucket, an Underground sign, a bicycle, a green plastic stool, a sewing machine, a drill, a mop, a pair of jeans, and a lot more. The fascinating selection is so much fun to look at since these are objects that we all know and use.

The Crowdsourced Wall of everyday objects at the Design Museum in London

Checking Out the Rods at the Design Museum

I am arrested by a display of…rods! I didn’t know rods were a thing in the UK, but they certainly were a cherished part of my early school years. For those who don’t know, rods are various colored plastic rectangles used to teach children arithmetic.

A white rod represents one and is one-tenth the size of an orange rod that represents ten. In between are red for two, green for three, and so on. When I was in Grades 1 and 2, the highlight of a day was when you finished your work early and the teacher let you go to the back of the room to “play rods.” I spent many a happy hour solving arithmetic problems with the tactile aid of those plastic rectangles that felt so smooth and were so pleasingly colored. Rods are still in use to this day, although my daughter doesn’t remember having them when she was at school in the 1990s.

What a shame for her! I credit rods with giving me a lifelong penchant for arithmetic. Mathematics? Not so much, but I’m a dab hand at addition, subtraction, multiplication and division without a calculator! Thank you, rods.

A box of rods used to solve arithmetic problems at the Design Museum in London — A display of rods used to teach children arithmetic

The box of rods on display at the Design Museum isn’t the only object that catapults me down memory lane. The entire museum is one big time-travel experience.

If you use household objects (and who doesn’t?), then check out the Design Museum. You’re bound to find at least a few displays that trigger happy memories.

The Design Museum Shop

After you’ve toured the exhibits, check out the stylish gift shop. You’ll find all sorts of cool design items there.

Practical Information about the Design Museum in London

The Design Museum is located at 224–238 Kensington High Street and is open Monday to Thursday from 10:00 to 17:00, and Friday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Some ticketed exhibitions may remain open later on weekends. The Design Museum is closed on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day. Admission to the permanent collection is free. Check the website for more information.

Touring London

London is full of intriguing museums and experiences, some very much off-the-beaten path. GetYourGuide has plenty of options to choose from. Here are a few:

Staying in London

London is not an inexpensive city, but nevertheless, I’ve discovered some excellent places to stay that, while not bargain basement, are good value and centrally located.

On a recent trip to London, I stayed at the Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel. Located right across the street from Victoria Station, the Park Plaza Victoria (5 on the map at the beginning of this post) is a remarkably good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London. My room for two was spacious and even had a view over London.

The Wilde ApartHotel (6) in central London is also a wonderful choice. I loved its central location within walking distance of Trafalgar Square and most of the West End theaters. Check out my post about the Wilde ApartHotel.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Design Museum? What were your favorite exhibits? Did you see a special exhibition? Share your experiences and recommendations in the Comments below.

Here are links to posts about three of my favorite London galleries and museums: