I recently visited the Courtauld Gallery within hours of landing at Heathrow after flying to London from Vancouver. After three years away from Europe, I was itching to see great art, and the Courtauld Gallery turned out to be the perfect place to ease my way back into artsy traveling.
It’s small, it’s centrally located, and its collection is exquisite.
The highlights of the Courtauld Gallery are the truly impressive Impressionist collection and the medieval collection.
What is the Courtauld Gallery?
The Courtauld Gallery is part of the renowned Courtauld Institute of Art. This research-led higher education institution is the University of London’s largest community of art historians, conservators and curators. The gallery recently reopened after being closed for three years. The new and improved version is little short of spectacular.
Impressionist Collection at the Courtauld Gallery
Like the vast majority of visitors, I headed first to the top floor to view the Impressionist collection and the special exhibition of paintings by Edvard Munch (see my review of this exhibition). The room containing the Impressionist collection attracts the most visitors and can get a bit crowded.
I walked into the large room containing a delicious collection of Impressionists and immediately had to sit down to prevent myself from falling down and embarrassing myself. What I really wanted to do is laugh out loud and twirl myself past masterpiece after masterpiece, giddy with the beauty surrounding me.
When, finally, I collected myself, I began pacing slowly and reverently past gorgeous painting after gorgeous painting by all the biggies—Monet, Cézanne, Gauguin, Renoir, and on and on.
Here are just a few of the highlights of the Impressionist collection.
Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan by Paul Cézanne
“Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan” by Paul Cezanne
Cézanne painted many views of the countryside surrounding Jas de Bouffan, a rural estate outside Aix-en-Provence owned by Cézanne’s father. Having visited the area, I can attest that Cézanne captures the shimmering quality of the light and the particularly vivid shades of green unique to Provence. My favorite Cézannes are his paintings of the Provence landscapes and this one is a keeper for sure!
Young Woman Powdering Herself by Georges Seurat
“Young Woman Powdering Herself” by Georges Seurat
I’ve long been a fan of Georges Seurat who created the “pointillist” style of painting. He followed newly formulated optical theories by placing colors from opposite sides of the color wheel–orange and blue; pink and green–next to each other to create contrast. Seurat died at age 31 but he left behind some stunning works, this one being his only major portrait.
Self Portrait with Bandaged Ear by Vincent van Gogh
“Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear” by Vincent van Gogh
I couldn’t believe the Courtauld had this piece! It’s one of my favorite van Goghs. I love how he contrasts the various colors–blue hat, green coat, orange face–and also includes the image of one of the Japanese prints he collected. Van Gogh was heavily influenced by Japanese printmaking. He painted this piece in 1889, a week after leaving hospital following the famous incident when he cut off a portion of his left ear after a heated argument with Paul Gauguin. Even injured, van Gogh was determined to keep painting.
The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin
The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin
And speaking of Gauguin, I was thrilled to see this piece which he painted while he was living in Brittany. Gregg Simpson (husband and painter) is currently working on the Pont Aven Suite, a series inspired by Gauguin’s Brittany paintings, so Gauguin has been a regular topic of a conversation in our house. I love how Gauguin simplifies and flattens forms and colors. This piece has so much movement–the women raking hay above and the man driving the oxen below.
A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Edouard Manet
A Bar at the Folies-Bergères by Edouard Manet
Fabulous as all the pieces in the Impressionist collection are, the best of all is my old friend A Bar at the Folies-Bergères by Manet. What a painting!
The young barmaid (the model’s name was Suzon) looks out at the viewer, her expression both bored and vulnerable at the same time. According to the descriptive text next to the piece, “Manet created a complex and absorbing compostion that is considered one of the iconic paintings of modern life.” That is certainly true!
Suzon is every person in the world working in a dead-end job they hate and yet obliged to pretend they enjoy for the sake of the customers.
Medieval Collection at the Courtauld Gallery
After thoroughly exploring the top floor, I began my descent to the other two floors to explore the rest of the Courtauld Gallery’s collection. I was in for a treat as it turned out.
One of my favorite eras for painting is the middle ages, particularly the first half of the 14th century when artists were not worried about perspective and realism. I love the use of gold, the pastel shades of the egg tempera paint the artists used, and the lego-like way in which they depicted medieval buildings.
Well, the Courtauld delivered! To my delight, it houses a lovely medieval collection that includes such notables as Lorenzetti and Duccio—two hometown boys from Siena, my fave Italian city (and one of the settings for The Towers of Tuscany).
As is often the case in art museums, the medieval rooms were pretty much empty so I drifted from painting to painting and admired to my heart’s content.
A highlight is a series of small panels painted by Fra Angelico (1417-1455) that depicts six female saints. Each face is incredibly expressive and compelling. I wonder who Fra Angelico used as models.
Other Highlights of the Courtauld Gallery Collection
After thoroughly exploring and enjoying the large collection of medieval art, I toured the rest of the collection. There’s a fair number of works from the 16th to the 19th centuries, including works by Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Reynolds, and Rubens.
A big selling point of the Courtauld is its compact size and that each piece in the colleciton is stellar. I don’t think I’ve ever visited an art museum where the quality of all the pieces is so uniformly high.
After my visit, I got chatting with the young man in the gift shop. He enthusiastically agreed that the Courtauld’s collection is first-rate and also kindly listened to me rattle on about how I first visited the Courtauld with my mom back in 1970 (likely a good forty years befor he was born!)
Here are two more of my favorites at the Courtauld Gallery.
“Adam and Eve” by Cranach the Elder
“Landscape with the Flight Into Egypt” by Pieter Bruegel the Elder
Courtauld Gallery Practical Information
The Courtauld Gallery is open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Book your ticket in advance on the website to avoid line-ups and also to make sure you get in! Check the website also for special exhibitions. The Munch exhibition I saw was definitely worth the extra price.
London Tours & Tickets
Here are some options for touring London and buying tickets for interesting museums such as the Design Museum and other attractions.
GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of London!
Conclusion
As my first visit to a world-class art museum in three years, the Courtauld was the perfect choice. It gently eased me back into artsy traveling, doling out artsy hits like small bites of gourmet chocolates—each one more flavorful than the last and yet all equally fabulous.
Have you visited the Courtauld? Which piece was your favorite? Share your experience in the Comments section below.
Here are some more posts about favorite art museums in Europe:
The Wilde Aparthotel at Covent Garden is the perfect place to stay on a short visit to London.
The price is reasonable (under $200 CDN a night when I booked, although this price may vary), the amenities and comforts are first rate, and the location unbelievable.
I’ve stayed in many places in London over the years, highlights being the ParkCity in Kensington and The Cavendish near Green Park, but never have I stayed in a place as fabulously located and appointed as Wilde Aparthotel, particularly if you, like me, are a theater nut.
Location, Location, Location
From the Wilde Aparthotel, you can walk to most West End theaters in under five minutes. Two of them are just across the street on the Strand.
After an evening at the theater, nothing kills the post-applause buzz like a long tube ride. I prefer to waltz no more than a few blocks along brightly lit streets thronged with other theatergoers. I especially appreciate the Wilde Aparthotel’s location when I am visiting London alone. Safety first, and for the solo traveler, the area feels very safe.
Value for Money at the Wilde Aparthotel
The Wilde Aparthotel, which is part of a chain owned by StayCity (their other property is at Paddington), has figured out how to provide visitors with a four-star experience in a five-star location at a price that won’t require them to mortgage their homes back home.
They cut corners on unnecessary stuff and spend money on things that directly contribute to customer comforts.
The two most obvious cuts are the lack of a lobby and breakfast service. A lobby is generally a waste of space and food is certainly not hard to come by in this part of London. Several coffee shops are within a five-minute walk of the hotel.
Arriving at the Wilde Aparthotel
Guests walk into a narrow entranceway and go immediately up the elevator to their rooms. Everything is sleek, modern and kind of quirky, befitting a hotel named after Oscar Wilde.
According to a plaque at the entrance, the hotel was opened by Oscar Wilde’s grandson. How cool is that!
An attendant is on duty each time I enter the hotel, always greeting me warmly and asking me if I need anything. Every staff member I encounter during my stay at the Wilde Aparthotel is friendly and professional. I feel like they really want me to have a good stay.
Room Features
My room is pretty tiny, but it has everything I can possibly need including a full kitchen, a desk, a fabulous rainforest shower, a large TV and a very comfy bed. Okay, I have to crawl across the bed and navigate around a million pillows to get to the window so I can open and close the curtains, but that’s not much of an inconvenience.
The room would be small for two people, but it is perfect for one.
My very comfortable bed at the Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden
Free Stuff
The fridge is stocked with free glass bottles of water (with more available whenever needed) and snacks. Yes, you read that right–free.
Unlike every other hotel I’ve ever stayed in, the Wilde Aparthotel does not charge for the contents of the minibar. Gone is the feverish scanning of price lists at 3 am, recoiling at the eye-watering prices and then having to make the agonizing choice between eating dinner the next day and slaking your thirst.
Instead, I pluck a cold, recyclable glass bottle of water and happily chug it down, secure in the knowledge that I can have another…and another.
Kitchen area in the room at the Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden
Room Layout
The space is thoughtfully arranged with lots of little touches like fragrant shampoos and lotions in large refillable bottles, a sturdy umbrella which I needed on Day 2, fluffy towels, and good lighting. Really, it can’t be more perfect.
Back in the day, most affordable accommodation in London consisted of dreary bed-and-breakfasts with bathrooms down the hall, thin towels, lumpy beds, and hideous wallpaper reminiscent of Oscar Wilde’s last words on Earth.
Either that wallpaper goes or I do.
And he did.
What’s Close to the Wilde Aparthotel?
The Wilde Aparthotel is located on Adams Street just around the corner from the Strand. It’s no more than a five-minute walk from Trafalgar Square, the Thames, and Covent Garden.
Busses ply the Strand constantly to get to wherever you need to go in minutes. For my entire two-and-a-bit days in London, I never needed to take the Underground.
Numerous coffee shops and restaurants are very close by. On my first night, I enjoy a wonderful plate of fettucine and smoked salmon at Uvilo, an Italian place directly across the Strand from the hotel. The portion is huge so I pack up the leftovers to store in my fridge. The small kitchen is equipped with a microwave and stove so the next day I’m able to heat up the leftovers for lunch. I’ve never had access to kitchen facilities in a London hotel.
I will definitely stay at the Wilde Aparthotel again and can recommend it unreservedly.
An Artsy Traveler is always on the look-out for those magical moments that make traveling so, well, magical.
Guest poster, writer, storyteller, performer (and fellow Bowen Islander!) Tina Overbury shares her experience finding magical moments with trees while participating in a writing program in Dartmoor, England (one of my favorite places!).
Overview
‘Stories don’t enchant, they break spells’ – Dr. Martin Shaw, Director of the West Country School of Myth
I’m fresh back from a week-long summer school program called Tent of the Seven Doors from The West Country School of Myth. Led by storyteller and mythologist Martin Shaw, who is also the founder of the Oral Tradition and Mythic Life courses at Stanford University, the program was located in Dartmoor National Park in the southwest corner of England.
I had just completed a two-week story pilgrimage in Ireland and decided that since I’m so close, I should really hop over to England and tick a story-box I’ve been carrying for a long time.
Who is Dr. Martin Shaw, Director of the West Country School of Myth?
I came across Dr. Martin Shaw’s work seven years ago when my writing partner, Meribeth Deen, sent me an article from Emergence Magazine: Mud and Antler Bone. I swear I listened to that interview fifty times. I used to run to it and then stop it mid-stride, catch my breath and slap my head with: What? What did he say…?
OMGGGGGG – There’s a language for what I see in my head? Other people talk like this?
I didn’t understand then that the way my instrument as an artist works is through ‘thinking’ and ‘hearing’ in mythological terms.
What this looks like for my friends is that I have a rather obnoxious habit (to some) of explaining everything in metaphor. This isn’t because I think I’m all that and a bag of chips, or because I’m trying to hide from being clear about anything. It’s because to me, using symbols and imagery that are thick with textured meaning ARE the closest way I know to speak succinctly.
Communicating Truth
How else can you communicate the complexity of honesty and the truth? Or so says me! And thankfully I discovered this summer during my travels that a gaggle of other story people say so too.
Let me tell you about three magic moments I had with trees in beautiful, mystical Dartmoor.
Magical Moment 1: Finding the Ashes
To provide a context for the magical moments with trees I experienced while walking on the moor, I first need to go back two years to when I wrote a piece called OMYGOD about the women we burned, the babies we buried and the Gods we have worshiped.
As the name sounds, it was a tough piece to write. I didn’t choose to write it, it chose me, and to top it all off, I decided to perform it as a live storytelling piece. However, due to the pandemic, we filmed it instead. All this to say, I had to memorize the damn thing–all 60 pages and 93 minutes of it.
The ‘women we burned’ part – the story that named six Irish women who were burned at the stake for witchcraft – was proving impossible to memorize. I just couldn’t get the words of those women into my body. I tried everything. I walked, I prayed, I asked… I did everything.
The Magical Power of Dreams
Eventually, I engaged in a dreaming session with a healer friend of mine. I saw myself as a birthing aid of sorts. I was in a hut smoothing clay like mud across a dying woman’s chest. She was taking her last breaths post-childbirth and I was placing lavender on her throat. Best as I could make sense, I was helping her transition to the other side. Because of this, the clergy and the officials of the town took me, and I was burned alongside a number of other women for witchcraft.
As dreams can do, I was able to step in and out of places in the story. I didn’t watch myself or the other women burn. Instead, I time jumped to the place where they were all ashes and I was on the outside.
I stood in front of the line of pyres in front of me, and I cried and cried and cried, saying over and over again…
’What happened to the ashes of these women? Who collected their ashes? Who laid them to rest?’
Finding the Story in a Tree
And then I stepped wayyyyyy out and started picking up pieces of wood and laying them in a circle, like a sacred line of acknowledgement of their life, and to mark their death.
Magical Moment 2: Exploring the Landscape of Place
The Tent of the Seven Doors program certainly wasn’t like any other writing class I’d taken. To be fair, it wasn’t a writing class. In fact, I’m not even sure it was a ‘class’, but rather an initiation into the realm of mythical storytelling.
We didn’t learn through cognitive lesson plans with hand-outs or PowerPoints. We didn’t learn through experiences and examples unpacked through journaling or reflections. The truth is, I’m still trying to figure out how we learned, but if I had to guess, I’d have to say that we learned through invitation.
We were invited to step from one world into another.
We were invited through the landscape of place.
We were invited through the imagining that happened with each story.
Each day we would experience a story, and each afternoon or evening we would experience the land.
Connecting with a Lush and Luxuriant Oak
On one such afternoon, I came a gorgeous oak and unlike most of the scarred and barren trees of the moor, she is lush and radiant and there is more limb and branch to her than trunk. She has been reaching toward the sun for a very long time.
I spent some time with her and found myself collecting sticks. I was finishing a story that started with a dream a number of months ago. I acknowledged more women, and I collected more ashes. I placed a circle of sticks around her.
And then that dreamscape story of OMYGOD felt complete. I don’t have much more to say about that other than I knew it was done.
But then…
Magical Moment 3: The Cork Tree Walks with Me
Have you ever seen a cork oak tree? Because I sure hadn’t.
There is a HUGE cork oak by the enormous fire pit at the back of the property where we gathered to close our summer school experience. Seeing that tree made me think that I had just stepped into The Shire from The Lord of the Rings. I had to talk myself out of believing it could walk.
You know when you’re walking down the street and a dog starts to follow you and if you look back he’ll keep following so you have to discipline yourself TO NOT LOOK BACK? Well, that was me.
I mean, how was it going to make it into the house with me? Okay, I know this tree can’t actually walk. But jeeeeeeeeeeez… I swear, this tree was magnificent.
It transported me to a place I have only ever made fun of: the land of affirmation people, the ones who only see the world through the lens of sunshine, rainbows and lollipops.
But there it was.
If Snow White was a real person, she would step out of a little apple-red door with the seven dwarfs following behind, singing Heigh Ho, Heigh Ho…
Check this out (you’ll even hear the cows!) :
The Magic of a Cork Tree
And to touch the bark? I mean the cork… I mean the bark. It is light, like the false front of a western town film set, except this isn’t a facade. It’s a whole damn tree and it has to be hundreds of years old.
She was the antithesis and antidote to all the gloom, grief and burning that had been my journey of mythic trees thus far.
I fully expected unicorns and fairies to pour out of its bark like a clown car filled with magic instead of red-shoed men.
Who knew?
Holding the Light and the Dark
As an artist, I’m comfortable in the darker shades of story. I easily walk the bottom of the ocean while holding hands with the harder emotions. I write pieces to look for hope. I write to discover the color that lives in the shadowy blend of things, but this time, I didn’t have to.
This gorgeous cork oak tree did all the heavy lifting for me.
Learning Community
“In troubled times we can create a culture of resistance and delight. The learning community believes that myth has something vital to say about the condition of both our lives and the earth. That certain stories we need right now arrived, perfectly on time, about five thousand years ago. Central to this is the notion that culture and wildness have experienced an artificial separation, and that both initiation and myth can create what Shaw calls a Culture of Wildness.”
Martin also says: ‘When the center is in crisis, it is only from the edge that the genius comes’. I believe him.
So while these days, there IS a lot to be troubled about…for sure, there is also much to be hopeful for.
Please meet this community of Bards, Storytellers, Eco-Romantics, land-as-church visionaries, fire-dwellers, academics, nurturers and fools.
There is a movement afoot.
And it’s coming from multiple directions.
These are mythic times.
Read about Tina Overbury on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page. Here are some other contributions from Tina and other guest posters to help you get the most of your artsy traveling.
How do you know you’re a writing adventurer? That’s what guest poster, writer, storyteller, performer (and fellow Bowen Islander!) Tina Overbury asked after venturing across the Atlantic to Ireland in July of 2022. Her experiences led her to share these three tips in the hopes that you, too, can become a writer adventurer!
Ready to find out? I know that I definitely want to be a writing adventurer!
How Do You Know You’re a Writing Adventurer?
You are drawn to lush landscapes that you swear are whispering your name.
To make room for more books, you roll your t-shirts and the one pair of jeans you packed rather than fold them.
The stories you might miss if you don’t go are already swirling through your head, and you haven’t even booked your flight yet.
The smell of city, forest, farm and pub grub takes you to all the places and unwritten scenes you’ve collected from around the world.
I just came back from a story-pilgrimage to Ireland, and I have a few tools to offer you from my journey.
What’s a Pilgrimage?
“A pilgrimage is a journey, often into an unknown or foreign place, where a person goes in search of new or expanded meaning about their self, others, nature, or a higher good, through the experience. It can lead to personal transformation, after which the pilgrim returns to their daily life.” – so says Wiki.
That definition just sounds like a regular writing day. To me, the act of communication is more akin to a sacred practice. If you want to be a writing adventurer, throw in some travel to mythically rich places and hell, you might even call it church.
That brings me to TIP #1.
Tip #1: When you Travel, Don’t just Write, Myth-dive
As soon as you step off the plane and place your feet on new soil, you become a writing adventurer! You are entering a multilayered invitation to discover what you don’t know… not what you do know.
Arriving in Ireland
Everyone said to me, ‘Ireland is waiting for you… you will feel you are home… she is magical.’ And on the one hand, they were all totally right. She is undeniably magical.
But on the other, nope – she didn’t feel like home to me at all…not yet, anyway. She felt like a landscape of a zillion mysteries that I hadn’t earned the invitation to hear – yet.
Full disclosure, I work in myth and I have a passion for land-based stories, so for me being a writing adventurer means I spend a lot of time listening, waiting, and following impulses rather than making a list of destinations to check off as a ‘been there, done that.’
Ask Yourself: What’s This Country’s Origin Story?
So truly, and from my heart… the next time you land somewhere new, I invite you to myth-dive. As a writing adventurer, ask:
What is this country’s origin story?
What story does the land hold?
What are its symbols and emblems?
What are its stories?
Because believe me, the stories OF a place want to be heard, seen and known – just as much as you do.
It’s basic attachment theory, really. 😉
Going off the Beaten Track
The writing adventurer isn’t afraid to veer away from the usual tourist sites to find stories.
In our search of Ireland’s origin story, we were all set to visit Newgrange, a Neolithic monument from Boyne Valley, County Meath constructed 5,200 years ago (3,200 BC). It’s older than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids of Giza.
But the idea of lining up, buying tickets, listening to experts and not being ‘free to roam’ didn’t jive with my adventurer’s heart, never mind my writing adventurer’s heart!
So instead, we went to Grianán of Aileach on the upper reaches of Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle.
Grianán of Aileach overlooks the neighbouring counties of Londonderry, Donegal and Tyrone in northern Ireland
Our visit to Grianán of Aileach
As we approached the monument at dusk, with nothing but our voices echoing back to us from the center, it’s like I could hear those whispers of Ireland’s story, and I cried.
The summit of the Grianán looks over the neighbouring counties of Londonderry, Donegal and Tyrone. While this is a restored site from the original which records its destruction in 1101, a tumulus (ancient burial mound) at the Grianán may date back to the Neolithic age, as evidenced by a covered well that was found near the cashel in the early nineteenth century.
Information about Grianán of Aileach in Northern Ireland
While I’d still like to visit Newgrange one of these days, I’m glad I followed my storyheart to Grianán of Aileach. You don’t hear the secrets of a place through the mouth of a tour guide. You hear it from the land.
TIP #2: Go to the Places that Haunt You
My trip to Ireland was a story-pilgrimage because I was trying to make sense of a story I had come across about the Bon Secour Mother and Baby Homes in Tuam, County Galway. The remains of 796 children were discovered buried in an abandoned septic tank under the ground where the home had stood.
I caught the news story that featured the public apology offered by the Irish Prime Minister Micheál Martin and it shook me hard enough to write about it. As I watched his statement, I was haunted by one question: Why is it so hard to say I’m sorry?
That question inspired me to write and film an entire performance piece called OMYGOD during the height of the pandemic.
And then something unplanned happened. On the evening prior to the global screening of OMYGOD, the remains of 215 Indigenous children were found outside the Kamloops Residential School in British Columbia, Canada, only a few hundred kilometers from where I live. The story had come very close to home.
Visit to the Children’s Burial Ground Memorial in Tuam, County Galway
When you write about what haunts you, you’ll find far more meaning beyond the words that actually hit the page.
Saying sorry at the Children’s Burial Ground Memorial in Tuam, County Galway
We found the site, but it wasn’t easy. Google actually has a ‘pin’ dropped where it thinks it is but it’s not in exactly the right spot, and took us to a rather large cemetery. We walked for a while and couldn’t find what we assumed would be a large monument to the 796 children. But no. It wasn’t going to be that easy. Finally, we asked someone and she pointed us in an entirely different direction.
“Outside the graveyard. Down two blocks. Between two rows of houses. Within a blocked-off courtyard and taped-off playground. You’ll find it there.”
And we did.
Tip #3 – Buy The Damn Hat
Okay, so this is a silly one, but it’s legit. Buy the damn hat. It’s the one you think you can’t afford, but you want it just the same. That was me.
I picked up the hat and then put it down.
I walked away from the hat and then I walked back.
The little voice in my head told me it was ‘too much’ for my budget.
But then I saw myself heading back home on the plane without the hat…. And well, this is me and the hat guy at Beflast’s St. George’s Market.
I buy the hat
Do it. Just buy the damn hat!
What Else Should a Writing Adventurer Do?
Well, after you buy the damn hat, here are some more tips!
Bonus Tip #1: Stay in the weird places you have to look for to find. Our favorite AirBNB stay was in County Roscommon with Fiona.
Bonus Tip #2: Wear the shoes that let you keep walking until you don’t feel lost anymore.
The spectacular beaches of Ireland
Bonus Tip #3: Choose to talk to ALL the people, like, all of them (even the Irish Traveller who has just been released from prison and grew up in the circus – not even kidding a little bit).
Bonus Tip #4: Eat the caramel, shortbread crust, custardy gooey dessert thing made by the guy’s mom who owns the coffee stand, and then eat it again because it’s that damn good. (FiFi’s coffee in Donegal is da bomb!).
Fiffi’s Coffee in Donegal – just go!
Bonus Tip #5: Don’t settle for places that feel boring to you. Wait until you find that dark doorway that you can’t pass by – and then go in. It might be the ghosts of three Irish writers calling you in for a spot of whiskey (Go to Garavan’s Whiskey Bar and order the Irish Writer’s Tasting Platter).
Enjoying a whiskey tasting
And I could go on and on… but all I’m really trying to say is:
The impulse that made you want to go on a trip is trying to tell you something, and you can’t hear it if you’re not listening.
So go.
Do the things.
Listen to the story of a place.
Follow the wild impulses you can’t ignore.
And buy the damn hat.
Read about Tina Overbury on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page. Here are some other contributions from guest posters to help you get the most of your artsy traveling.
A three-day visit to Venice gives you a flavorful taste of this float-on-water, impossibly beautiful city.
I love Venice and go there as often as I can. In three days, you won’t see everything, but you’ll see a fair bit and, most importantly, you’ll whet your appetite (forgive the pun!) to return.
My suggestions for three days in Venice include plenty of time for slowing down and enjoying yourself. You can’t see everything, so don’t even try. Instead, focus on my suggested artsy highlights and still have plenty of energy left over for wandering.
Venice is probably the most “wanderable” city I’ve ever visited.
Definitely avoid popping into Venice for a day, or worse, an afternoon. It’s better not to visit at all than to end up being jostled around Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) with thousands of other sweaty, rushed tourists. You’ll come away with a negative view of Venice, and that would be a terrible shame!
Why I Love Venice
Of all the cities I’ve been to, Venice is my favorite. The first time I visited, I couldn’t stop laughing for the first fifteen minutes of our ride on the vaporetto (water bus) from the train station along the Grand Canal to our hotel. I just couldn’t believe that such a place existed on Earth, that Venice was real.
But Venice is real, and Venice is special.
Quiet side canals glimmer in the luminous Adriatic light, buildings with exotic facades slowly sink into the mud, world-class museums and art galleries abound, peaceful piazzas and bustling piazzas beckon, gondolas glide and water taxis and water busses churn up and down the Grand Canal, and the music of Vivaldi wafts into the night air.
A quiet side canal in Venice
Can you tell that I adore Venice? Unfortunately, in the years before the pandemic, my favorite city was become horribly overcrowded. Massive cruise ships docked within sight of the Grand Canal and the cafés on the Piazza San Marco took rip-offs to a whole new level.
I wonder how things will change now that Venice is again starting to welcome back travelers. I personally hope that more regulations are put in place to handle the flow of visitors. I don’t mind paying a tourist tax to enjoy Venice (cafe rip-offs aside). We’ll see what the future holds!
When to Visit Venice
That said, go to Venice. Just be strategic about how and when you visit. Floods in winter are often a serious problem, and summers can be hot and crowded. I’ve stayed in Venice in both spring and autumn and recommend both seasons. You’ll still encounter crowds, but the weather will be bearable. Just bring lots of mosquito repellant!
A Three-Day Venice Itinerary
Here’s how I suggest you spend your time as an Artsy Traveler with two full days and three nights in Venice.
Day 1 in Venice
Arrival in Venice
Arrive around lunchtime and make your way to your hotel. If you’re driving, park in the Tronchetto Car Park. The rates are fairly reasonable and the car park has a station on the Venice People Mover, an automated tramway that takes you quickly into Venice.
People Mover station near Tronchetto Car Park in Venice
I wouldn’t waste time parking on the mainland. You’ll save a bit of money, but you’ll also waste a fair bit of time getting into Venice itself. Save your energy for sightseeing! Here’s a comprehensive overview of parking options in Venice.
If you’re taking the train, you’ll arrive at the train station and then, depending on where your hotel is located, hop on a vaporetto–the Venice version of a bus.
Getting Around Venice
The two main ways to get around Venice is by riding the vaporetto–a quintessentially Venetian experience–and walking. You could also take water taxis, but they are super expensive. I’ve only taken one once from our place near the Grand Canal back to the Tronchetto Car Park at the end of a week in Venice to attend one of Gregg’s art exhibitions. We had a large box of his paintings in addition to our luggage and did not want to wrangle everything on to and off of the people mover.
A sleek and stylish water taxi may be worth the splurge if you have lots of luggage
Sometimes, saving your legs and your sanity is worth the extra cost of a water taxi. But most of the time, you’ll get everywhere you need to go in Venice either by walking or by taking the vaporetto. Also, even when it’s packed to the gunnels, a ride on the vaporetto is fun!
Buy Tickets in Advance for the Vaporetto
A single ride on a vaporetto costs€7.5 Euros! That’s waterway robbery. Fortunately, you can buy a City Pass from the Venezia Unica website CityPass website that includes public transit and entrance to various Venice sites or you can just buy a transit pass for one, two, three, or seven days.
A vaporetto on the Grand Canal in Venice
I suggest buying the three-day pass and using it on Days 1, 2, and 3. On the morning of Day 4 when you’re making your way back to your car, either walk, depending on where you’re staying, or splash out for a single ticket. We bought a seven-day travel card for €60 each. Since our apartment was close to the Grand Canal, we used the vaporetto several times a day to get around and to travel to Burano and Murano. Buy the Venice Travel Card at the ticket-vending machines located at the largest vaporetto stops or online before you arrive (most convenient).
Areas to Stay in Venice
I suggest you stay in the Dosoduro area across the Grand Canal from Piazza San Marco or the area between the Rialto Bridge and the train station. I’ll talk more about hotels later. For now, drop your bags if your room isn’t ready and set out for your first stop.
Activities on Day 1 in Venice
Here’s what you’ll have time to do on your first afternoon and evening in Venice:
Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum
Walk to and cross the Rialto Bridge
Visit Piazza San Marco as the sun is setting and the crowds have thinned
Take a traghetto back across the Grand Canal
Dine at a small trattoria near your hotel
Here are the details!
Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum
I seriously love this museum. Located right on the Grand Canal and accessed from the Dosoduro district, the Peggy Guggenheim Museum is a must-see for modern art lovers. Peggy Guggenheim was quite the gal in her day. She knew just about every famous modern artist in Europe in the 1930s and 1940s and amassed an amazing collection of their art.
You’ll find works by Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian.
The museum is located in Peggy’s renovated Venetian palazzo. Wander the cool halls to revel in the fabulous collection and then go outside to enjoy a stunning panoramic view of the Grand Canal. On your first day in Venice, this really is the place to come to get your first Venetian hit.
The Rialto Bridge is one of Venice’s most iconic sites and as such it is often heaving with tourists. Avoid crossing it during the day, but definitely cross it at least once or twice during your visit to Venice. Since it’s one of the very few bridges across the Grand Canal, you can’t miss it!
The Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal is often very crowded
Visit Piazza San Marco
Take your time and wait until the sun is setting and the crowds have thinned, and then make your way to Piazza San Marco. Called the drawing room of Europe by Napoleon, the Piazza San Marco lives up to the hype, even when seething with tourists. But it’s better when it’s not too crowded.
Another option is to visit it very early in the morning (see my suggestions for Day 3) or late at night after dinner to really see and appreciate it.
In the evening, you can dance to the music coming from the posh cafés that line both sides of the piazza. Scare away a few pigeons and enjoy. I have occasionally splurged on a cup of coffee at one of the cafés (the prices are truly eye-watering), but the people-watching is worth the price and hey, you’re in Venice.
Piazza San Marco on a rainy evening
Take a Traghetto Back Across the Grand Canal
You have to ride a traghetto at least once while you’re in Venice. These fairly large and plain gondolas ferry people across the Grand Canal from various points. One option is to catch it from the Santa Sofia boat pier not far from Piazza San Marco and go across to the Rialto Fish Market. The ride is fast, cheap, and great fun. It’s not exactly a replacement for a “real” gondola ride, but it’s a great budget option, and at least you can say you rode in a gondola.
On the other hand, I do suggest you splurge on a gondola ride (see Day 3 suggestions).
Dine at a Small Trattoria
Check restaurant reviews and find a small restaurant near where you are staying. Avoid the more touristy restaurants at or near Piazza San Marco. My most memorable meal in Venice was at La Zucca, a small osteria on a side canal on the Dorsoduro side of the Grand Canal. Get reservations in advance (advisable everywhere in Venice) and enjoy!
Day 2 in Venice
On your first of two full days in Venice, use your morning energy for sightseeing (fewer crowds) and then spend the afternoon on Murano. Here’s what I suggest:
Visit the Accademia Gallery
Visit Murano for a glass-blowing demonstration and to shop for glass
Go to a concert of baroque music in the evening
Here are the details!
Activities on Day 2 in Venice
Visit the Accademia Gallery
You’ll find plenty of Renaissance and Baroque biggies in the Accademia in Venice (Gallerie Accademia). Works by such masters as Veronese, Tiepolo, Bellini, and Titian grace the walls of this very walkable and enjoyable museum. It’s not too big and in my experience isn’t usually that crowded.
That said, get tickets in advance to avoid line-ups, just in case. Check the gallery’s website for details.
Take the Vaporetto to Murano
Using your vaporetto pass, hop on the vaporetto for a trip across the lagoon to the lovely island of Murano. It’s quite a long voyage and the lagoon can be choppy. If you can, snag a seat outside to guard against seasickness.
Murano is the glass-blowing island and allegedly the best place to buy the distinctive Venetian blown glass. There are certainly plenty of shops there and the prices did seem to be a bit more reasonable than the prices at the tourist joints in Venice itself.
Enjoy a Glass-blowing Demonstration
Upon arival, head for a glass-blowing demonstration. It’s put on for the tourists, and our hand-scarred guy looked kind of bored as he dutifully blew, rotated, heated, and smashed a variety of glass ornaments. But I enjoyed the demonstration and recommend it to see how glass blowing is done.
Glass blowing is big business on the Venetian island of Murano
Browse the Shops
Make your way down some fairly nondescript streets to the main shopping street bisected with a small, straight canal arched over with several small bridges. On both sides of the canal, shop after shop after shop marched a good three blocks in both directions—each one crammed to the ceiling with glass.
Colorful main drag on the island of Murano
Storefront after storefront twinkles with heaps of glittering, glaring, glinting glass—swoopy vases and finely spun figures, paperweights, pendants, chandeliers, glasses, earrings, pitchers, plates, bowls, beads. Every store advertised that their glass is authentic, made on Murano, not in China like 80% of all the other glass for sale in Venice.
Enjoy Lunch Along the Canal in Murano
After shopping, enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of the canalside restaurants in Murano and then hop back on the vaporetto to return to Venice.
After your trip to Murano, either relax in or near your hotel for the afternoon or just keep wandering. Venice is endlessly fascinating. I love strolling alongside the canals, never knowing what’s around the next corner. Sometimes, I find a bustling street, at other times, nothing is moving except a cat stretching on a boat moored in the canal.
Gregg loved our visit to Murano and created several pieces inspired by glass blowing. Here’s my favorite (also featured in our collaboration Pastel & Pen: Travels in Europe):
“Murano” inspired by Murano blown glass by Gregg Simpson
Attend a Concert of Italian Baroque Music
A highlight of a trip to Venice is attending a concert of Italian baroque music. Vivaldi is the hometown boy here and you shouldn’t have much trouble finding a concert featuring his Four Seasons. by Italian baroque
One concert we attended was held in a baroque church with a ceiling painted by Tiepolo.
Look online for concert schedules and purchase tickets in advance if you can. Afterwards, float out into the warm Venetian evening (depending on the time of year!) and find another small trattoria for dinner.
Get Lost in Venice After Dark
And after dinner,keep wandering. Getting lost after dark in Venice is one of Europe’s best travel experiences. In fact, I put getting lost in Venice at the top of my list of must-do activities because first, getting lost is unavoidable (even with GPS on your phone), and second, you’ll never be lost for long.
Some of my fondest Venice memories are of strolling alongside dark canals in the evening (violent crime is very rare in Venice), not knowing if I was going in the right direction and not caring.
Sign pointing to San Marco in Venice
Venice is an island; you can’t fall off. With the world asleep and the crowds long gone, Venice at night is one of the most magical places on Earth. Walk until you come to one of the ubiquitous signs pointing to San Marco or Rialto or Ferrovia (train station) and get your bearings. You could also ask someone for directions, but chances are they’re tourists and also lost.
Day 3 in Venice
Get going bright and early to take in two of the most iconic sites of Venice, again before the crowds start to gather. Here’s an overview of Day 3:
Tour the Duomo and the Doge’s Palace
Wander and get lost some more
Take a gondola ride after dark
Activities on Day 3 in Venice
Tour the Duomo and Doge’s Palace
Both are crowded, and both are must-sees. Get your tickets ahead of time and go early or late. Several times I’ve bypassed long lines of hot and tired tourists waiting to get into the Doge’s Palace. Breeze past them with your pre-purchased ticket.
The sumptuous public rooms of the Doge’s Palace will show you just how powerful Venice was back in the day. A more sobering attraction are the dungeons reached by crossing the Bridge of Sighs, so called because prisoners who crossed it got their last glimpse of the world before being shut away and usually executed. Cheerful stuff.
Bridge of Sighs at night in Venice, Italy.
Leave Piazza San Marco before it gets too crowded and spend the afternoon wandering the back streets. Shop for souvenirs if you haven’t already bought your quota in Murano, relax at a sidewalk cafe in a small piazza, watch the people go by, and enjoy life.
What’s the hurry? You’re in Venice!
Take a Gondola Ride at Dusk
Yes, it’s expensive and kinda touristy but it’s also super romantic and relaxing. You’ll be taken into canals you may not have seen from the street, and if you’re lucky, you’ll hear a few gondoliers break into song. Occasionally, I’ve seen gondola traffic jams. To avoid them (not at all romantic!), go later.
Gondolas bobbing on the Grand Canal in Venice
At the time of writing, a daytime gondola ride costs 80 Euros for 40 minutes. After dark, the price rises to 100 euros, but in my opinion, going at night is the best. Six people fit in a gondola so you could share, depending on who you are with and whether romance is on the cards!
Tours of Venice
Here’s a selection of artsy sightseeing options in Venice with links to fast-track tickets.
Walking Tours of Venice with GuruWalks
How about a walking tour of Venice? GuruWalks has some good options:
Staying in Venice
Venice deserves at least three nights and preferably more so you can settle in and enjoy being a temporary Venetian. If time allows, rent an apartment and stay for a week.
My most cherished memories of Venice are the ten days we spent there in September 2015 while Gregg had an exhibition of his paintings in a gallery overlooking the Grand Canal.
Poster for exhibition of Gregg Simpson’s work in Venice
Paintings featured in the exhibition by Gregg Simpson
I spent hours just wandering the city, staying well clear of the heaving masses in Piazza San Marco and taking my time getting to know this most extraordinary city. For our apartment stay, we chose a place just off the Grand Canal about a five-minute walk from the train station. The neighborhood was quiet and close to a piazza that every evening spilled over with local Venetians enjoying the air and watching their children play.
If you have the time, rent an apartment in Venice and stay for a week. Live like a local, not that you’ll see many locals these days. Venetians are moving out of the city at an alarming rate. But at least you’ll experience shopping in tiny local grocery stores and get to know your way around a neighborhood.
As mentioned earlier, consider staying in the Dorsoduro district across the Grand Canal from the Piazza San Marco. I recommend you avoid the area immediately adjacent to Piazza San Marco. Hotels there can be expensive, and the tiny streets in the area are wall-to-wall tourists during the day.
Accommodation Suggestions
Here are suggestions for hotels that we have stayed in–one in the Dorsoduro and one near the Rialto Bridge.
Hotel Canaletto: We stayed there a few years ago and loved it. The rooms were small, but that’s par for the course in Venice. The location, just 200 meters from Rialto Bridge, was fantastic as was its situation on a charming side canal.
Hotel Messner is a more modest option, located in the Dorsoduro neighborhood close to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. It was quiet, and the area was peaceful and uncrowded, particularly at night.
For other options in Venice, check the map below. Resist the temptation to stay on the mainland. The savings will be minimal once you take into account train fares and your time. Stay in the middle of Venice and enjoy this unique city.
Include Venice in your trip to Italy if at all possible. With a bit of planning and some strategic dodging, you can easily avoid the crowds and find plenty of peaceful areas to enjoy. Venice is a city for dreaming. Give her time and she’ll reward you.
Looking to travel elsewhere in Italy? Here are some more posts to check out:
Known as the Garden Isle (and you’ll quickly find out why when you start exploring!), Kauai has so much to offer the artsy traveler. For one thing, it’s absolutely, irresistibly, awesomely gorgeous. Like, jaw-dropping-at-practically-every-turn gorgeous.
I felt like I was traveling through a work of art—one that has taken about five million years to create.
What’s In This Post
In this post, I provide suggestions for areas to explore on Kauai and then share my recommendations about how long to stay and where.
The East Shore is where most residents live and is quite busy and often traffic-clogged. However, its proximity to the airport, shopping, and some good beaches makes it a smart stop for a few days, particularly when you first arrive.
Stocking Up at Big Box Stores
On my first full day on Kauai’s East Shore, I drove to Costco and Walmart in the town of Lihue to buy vacation essentials at reasonable prices. At Costco, I picked up a case of water, a large bag of macadamia nuts that lasted me the entire trip, a few bags of snacks, a hunk of cheese, and a box of salad.
At Walmart, I bought a mask and snorkel, a pair of water shoes, and a nice big beach bag. You can rent snorkel equipment at various places on Kauai, but it’s cheaper (and more hygienic) to pick up the gear at a store like Walmart.
Town of Kapa‘a
The town of Kapa‘a (#1 on the map) is over 125 years old and was once the hub of a sugar-growing and then pineapple-growing area. The old canneries are closed now, and tourism is the main industry. Restaurants and gift shops line about two blocks on either side of the highway with some of the structures retaining the architecture of a frontier town.
I stopped a few times in Kapa‘a to buy lunch at the various food trucks parked in lots convenient to the road and once to treat myself to a cup of lychee and pineapple ice cream (creamy and very yummy!).
One evening, I ventured a block from where I had parked in the main part of town to the bike and walking path that hugs the coast for about 4.5 miles north from Kapa‘a. Another 2.5-mile section of the path leads from Lydgate Park to Wailua Beach Park south of Kapa‘a. The path is mostly flat and traverses an appealing coastal landscape.
Coconut Palms along the bike and walking path near Ka’apa
Lydgate Beach Park
One of the safest beaches on the East Shore for swimming and snorkeling, particularly with children, is Lydgate Beach Park (#2), a few miles south of Kapa‘a and close to Wailua right off the main road.
A reef protects two pools from the ocean waves. When I was there, the high winds made even the relatively calm pools too choppy for comfort. But the park would be a must-go-to on a less blustery day. Here’s a video in which you can clearly hear the wind!
Anahola Beach
This gorgeous beach north of Ka’apa is a great place to hang out while enjoying a breakfast acai (ah-sigh-EE) bowl, which is what I did on my second morning on Kauai. I suggest driving first to Kalalea Juice Hale on the road going north toward Anahola (#3), getting your acai bowl, and then eating it on the beach.
Anahola Beach
What is an acai bowl? Cool, smooth, and very purple mashed acai berries are topped with granola, hemp seeds, chia seeds, banana, and then drizzled with peanut butter. It’s a filling breakfast, but definitely worth trying a few times during a Kauai vacation.
What Else to See on the East Shore
There are many beautiful places to visit on the East Shore. Here’s a sampling:
Opaeka’a Falls (#4)
Wailua Falls (#5)
Nounou East Trail – ‘Sleeping Giant’ (#6)
Fern Grotto (#7)
Kauai Museum (#8)
For details, check out The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook by Andrew Doughty. This definitive guide to Kauai is a must-buy, along with Doughty’s very informative and amusing driving app. Check my post on traveling solo in Kauai for details.
Exploring the North Shore
The North Shore is wetter than other regions of Kauai, but has wonderful beaches, a more old-world, laid-back atmosphere and incredibly breathtaking scenery. Seriously, there are not enough superlatives in the thesaurus to describe the area’s sparkling beaches, lush greenery, and breathtaking mountains.
Here are a few recommended activities and sites on the North Shore of Kauai.
The Drive to Ha’ena State Park
You require a permit to enter Ha’ena State Park (#9), so if you didn’t get one several weeks in advance of your trip, you’re out of luck. Check the Haena State Park website for details.
Even if you can’t enter the park, the drive to the park, which is as far as you can drive on the North Shore before running into the impassable cliffs of Nāpali, is absolutely lovely and very relaxing because it’s impossible to drive too fast.
Every few minutes, you must navigate a one-lane bridge. After crossing the first few bridges, you quickly become an old hand, stopping at the start of the bridge, checking ahead to see if any cars are already waiting on the other side to cross, waiting for them to cross, and then when the coast is clear, crossing yourself.
Typical one-lane bridge on the road to Ha’ena State Park on the North Shore of Kauai
It is a bit like a dance. The etiquette is to allow about five to seven cars across at a time. Not everyone knows that so sometimes the wait to cross can take longer than it should, but who cares? You’re in paradise!
Hanalei and Hanalei Bay
A highlight on the North Shore is the charming little town of Hanalei (#10) on the world-famous Hanalei Bay. This broad, curving scimitar of sand lapped by turquoise waves and bulwarked by the first set of dramatic cliffs marching along the Nāpali Coast is an absolute must-see.
Hanalei Bay on the North Shore of Kauai
The town of Hanalei meanders along the road with touristy shops on each side. I poked around a bit and enjoyed a Hawaiian grilled cheese sandwich at Pink’s Creamery, but I can’t say there was much to see. More interesting was driving a block or two to Hanalei Bay itself, where I parked and spent a few afternoons on the beach. I did some swimming, but the waves were fairly rough.
One memorable evening, I drove to Hanalei pier to watch the sunset.
Hanalei Bay at sunset
Sunset over the Pacific Ocean at Hanalei Bay
Kīlauea Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge
At the town of Kīlauea on the North Shore, follow signs to the Kīlauea Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge (#11). Pay the $10 entrance fee and take a breezy stroll along the clifftops to the lighthouse. You’ll revel in dazzling views of the ocean waves crashing into the cliffs below and feel glad to be alive in the wonderfully fresh air.
Cliffs near the Kilauea Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge
View from the lighthouse at the Kilauea Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge
Kilauea Lighthouse
Kilauea Town
On the way to Kilauea Lighthouse, you’ll pass a few small shopping areas in the charming town of Kilauea (#12). I liked this area much better for shopping than the busier and more touristy Princeville area. There are some good take-out places (I enjoyed the offerings at Kilauea Fish Market and Sushi Girl Kauai) and the vibe is a lot more laid-back.
On the way back to the main highway, stop at the Healthy Hut Market & Cafe. A favorite of locals, this wonderful old health food store is chock full of health foods and organic produce and includes an excellent juice bar. I recommend the Kaupea Sundown organic fresh juice–carrots, fresh-squeezed (and local) orange juice, turmeric, and aloe. Wow!
The Healthy Hut Market and Cafe–great place to stop near Kilauea
The Kaupea Sundown
Hanalei Valley Lookout
Just after passing the mall at Princeville, you’ll see a pullout for the Hanalei Valley Lookout (#13). I stopped at it every time I passed because the magnificent view over the Hanalei Valley never got old. It’s, like, so gorgeous!
View from the Hanalei lookout on the road from Princeville to Hanalei
One time, I was lucky enough to stop when a rainbow was arcing across the valley. From the viewpoint (one of the most photographed lookouts in all Hawaii) you see taro fields, soaring mountains, and waterfalls. It is a truly magical site.
Limahuli Botanical Gardens
A stop here for either a self-guided or guided tour is a highlight of your North Shore exploration. Located just before the road along the North Shore ends at Ha’ena State Park, the marvelous Limahuli Gardens (#14) is a cool respite from crowded beaches and busy towns.
Its setting at the base of the “Bali Hai” mountain (yes, it’s the same mountain that stood in for Bali Hai in the movie South Pacific) makes it feel very remote and Hawaiian.
View of mountains from a lookout at Limahuli Gardens
I opted for the self-guided tour which I’d booked in advance. For more about Limahuli Gardens see the post Six Highlights of a Kauai Vacation.
Exploring the South Shore
The South Shore is much drier and has great beaches but with a more “resorty” feel. The other main attractions of this area are the drive up to Waimea Canyon and the Kalalau lookouts and the Allerton and McBryde Gardens.
The area is compact, with plenty of resorts occupying much of the oceanfront real estate. You’ll also find some attractive shopping malls and many options for eating.
Walking Trail
I stayed at the Point at Poipu (more below) which is steps from a trail that runs from Shipwreck Beach through the amazing poolside areas of the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa. Here are some shots taken along the pathway:
Poolside at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa
Sunset from the Point at Poipu
A longer “out and back” trail is the Mala’ulepu Heritage Trail that goes from the southeast corner of Shipwreck Beach along sand-dune cliffs to Punahoa Point.
Poipu Beach Park
Considered one of the most accessible and largest beaches in the area, Poipu Beach Park (#15) is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. There is a fair bit of parking, the swimming area is protected, and the snorkeling right from the beach is pretty good.
Monk seal hanging out at Poipu Beach Park
Wear water shoes when wading into the ocean. I was surprised to discover rocky shelves underfoot rather than sand. You may be lucky and see basking monk seals and sea turtles on the sands at Poipu Beach Park.
I highly recommend making reservations at Brennecke’s, right across the street from Poipu Beach Park. Dine on really tasty food while enjoying a view of the ocean. My seafood risotto was divine.
Spouting Horn
The astonishing Spouting Horn (#16) blow hole is a must-see when you’re driving along the South Shore on your way to the Allerton and McBryde Gardens. The blow hole is one of the most visited and photographed sites on the island. In fact, the only time during my trip that I saw a tour bus was at Spouting Horn.
Spouting Horn
Wander over to the railings and enjoy the spectacle. Every few seconds, the waves are forced up through a hole in the rocks in a fair imitation of Old Faithful but with sea water.
Waimea Canyon and Kalalau Lookouts
Take a few hours on a sunny day (make sure it’s sunny!) to drive up to enjoy out-of-this-world views of the Waimea Canyon (#17) and the Nāpali Coast. For more about the trip, see my post Six Highlights of a Kauai Vacation.
At the Waimea Canyon lookout
Tours of Allerton and McBryde Gardens
Make reservations to tour one or both of these gardens. The tours are educational and a feast for all the senses. A highlight is a visit to the giant wavy trees made famous in Jurassic Park. But remember to take mosquito repellent.
If you have the time and the funds, I suggest staying on Kauai for about two weeks. I stayed for ten days, which wasn’t quite long enough for me to explore Kauai as thoroughly as I would have liked.
When on Kauai, divide your time between the three main regions. On my ten-day trip, I stayed for four nights on the East Shore (known as the Coconut Coast), four nights on the North Shore, and two nights on the South Shore.
Beach on Kauai’s East Shore
For a two-week vacation, I suggest staying two or at most three nights on the East Shore and then a full week on the North Shore and the remaining days on the South Shore. I wished I’d spent longer on the South Shore during my trip, but I’d booked late, and accommodation had become very scarce—or at least accommodation in my price range.
Tours & Tickets on Kauai
Here are some options for tours and tickets on Kauai with Tiqets.com
Where to Stay on Kauai
Kauai has a variety of accommodation options and most of them are not inexpensive. You can find some hostels and a handful of budget hotels, but most places are going to put a large dent in your wallet.
Kauai is not the best choice if you are on a limited budget. But if you have the funds, you’ll find some beautiful places to stay.
Here are my recommendations for the three areas of Kauai I stayed in: the East Shore, North Shore, and South Shore.
Staying on the East Shore–the Coconut Coast
The East Shore of Kauai is where most Kauai residents live, primarily in Kaa’pa and Lihue which are quite close to the airport. Lihue has its fair share of malls and big box stores (convenient for stocking up).
The area is nicknamed the Coconut Coast or Royal Coconut Coast because of the many coconut palms growing along the coast and highways. Also, most of the resorts in the area feature coconut palms on their grounds.
Kauai Beach Villas
My flight from Vancouver arrived at 9:30 PM when the tropical darkness had well and truly fallen. I didn’t want to drive a long distance in the dark and so I chose a place that was close to the airport but still on the beach.
It’s about a seven-minute drive due north of Lihue Airport and just off the main highway. Even without GPS, I would have had a hard time getting lost.
The Kauai Beach Villas shares its location with the Kauai Beach Resort & Spa. Driving into the long, tree-lined driveway from the main road, you come first to the cluster of two-story buildings that make up the Kauai Beach Villas.
At 10:30 PM, the front desk for the Kauai Beach Villas—which is more of a condo development than a traditional hotel—was still open, thankfully. I checked in (very friendly staff!) and was given a bracelet to use to access the parking area and my suite. Within minutes, I was walking into a spacious one-bedroom unit on the ground floor.
Dining room, living room, and lanai at the Kauai Beach Villas
Kitchen at the Kauai Beach Villas
My Suite at the Kauai Beach Villas
I faced the lagoon and gardens. When I woke up before dawn on my first full day in Kauai, I strolled for about five minutes through charmingly landscaped grounds to a wide and sandy beach. While not good for swimming (way too rough), the beach faced east which meant I was about to experience my very first Kauai sunrise.
Several people were already gathered on the beach, cameras in hand, to await the arrival of the sun. Coming from a wet and chilly Vancouver, I felt like I’d been teleported to paradise as the warm winds swirled my skirts and the sound of the waves whooshed away jet lag.
Sunrise near Kauai Beach Villas on my first day on Kauai
I liked the Kauai Beach Villas because it was an easy drive from the airport, it was close to the beach and the adjacent resort had a restaurant, convenience store, and swimming pools.
My cosy unit was a great place to watch the only big rainstorm I experienced during my ten days on the island. It was on the first day and I was worried that rain was going to be a feature of my trip. Fortunately, I had pretty much clear skies for the rest of the trip. Here’s a video of the rainstorm taken from my lanai at the Kauai Beach Villas.
Other Accommodation Options on the East Shore
Several other accommodation options are located on the East Shore. Check the map below.
After my four nights at Kauai Beach Villas, I drove north to Princeville on Kauai’s North Shore.
Princeville itself is not really my cup of tea, to be honest. Basically, it’s a collection of resorts and vacation condos scattered atop the cliffs between Kīlauea Lighthouse and Hanalei Bay. The whole area, with its sleek developments, golf courses, and one touristy mall, feels very buffed and over-landscaped, kind of like a Pacific Palm Springs.
But Princeville makes an excellent home base for exploring the North Shore. Also, most of the accommodation options on the North Shore are in the area. Fortunately, a quick and achingly scenic drive north takes you down a winding road to gorgeous Hanalei Bay.
Sealodge F6 at Princeville
I stayed at Unit F6 at SeaLodge. Unit F6 was on the second floor of one of the many building in the 3-story SeaLodge condo development. Each unit is privately owned, either by individuals or by a vacation rental company. SeaLodge F6 is owned by Vancasa Vacation Rentals, and I booked it through booking.com (my go-to site for accommodations whenever I travel).
From the outside, the SeaLodge development is not particularly attractive with its brown, weathered shingles and boxy architecture. However, the one-bedroom unit that I stayed in was perfect. I had an outstanding view of the ocean from both the comfortable living room and the bedroom. Each night, I was lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves crashing onto the beach below the cliffs.
Living room at SeaLodge F6
Balcony and view at SeaLodge F6
I’ve read some reviews stating that not all the units at SeaLodge are as nice as Unit F6 so make sure you search for reviews of the specific unit you’re considering before you book.
Other Accommodation Options on the North Shore
Find other accommodation options in Princeville and Hanalei:
My last stop was Kauai’s South Shore for two nights. I definitely recommend you stay longer on the South Shore. This is probably the most resort-heavy area of Kauai with a wide range of accommodation and restaurant options, great beaches, reliably sunny weather, and proximity to one of the world’s great drives up to Waimea Canyon and the Kalalau lookouts.
The Point at Poipu
I stayed in the Point at Poipu, a large resort consisting of two-bedroom units with either garden or ocean views. As a solo traveler, a two-bedroom unit was overkill, but that was all that was available at the time I booked.
To save a few pennies, I’d booked a unit with a garden view rather than an ocean view. But, lucky me, I was given a fabulous ground floor unit that had both ocean and garden views. Score!
View of Shipwreck Beach steps from my room at the Point at Poipu
The Point at Poipu also has a large swimming pool which I only swam in once. But one of the best things about the Point at Poipu is its proximity to the ocean as well as the very, very swishy Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa right next door.
On my first morning, I walked out to the shoreline path in the direction of the Hyatt. As the sun rose, I snapped a ridiculous number of pictures of the lush, tropical grounds, fancifully landscaped swimming pools, and ponds brimming with fat koi.
A lot of koi
The Grand Hyatt Kauai
I treated myself to the buffet breakfast at the Ilima Terrace restaurant. Big mistake! Over-priced and with mediocre and tasteless food, the buffet was, needless to say, a disappointment. However, service was friendly and efficient, and the view was nice, so that was some compensation. Skip the buffet and pick up a coffee and pastry at the Seaview Terrace after wandering through the magnificent lobby and admiring the orchid garden.
Find more accommodation options on the South Shore on booking.com.
All three of my accommodation choices on Kauai were condo units with kitchens. Food prices, like all prices on Kauai, are very high. You can save a little bit by occasionally cooking or at least heating up take-out. Also, having more room to stretch out is, well, nice!
Conclusion
In this post, I’ve touched on what to see on the East Shore, North Shore and South Shore of Kauai, and shared my accommodation suggestions.
But I’ve just scratched the surface! On Kauai, you can enjoy so many cool activities, from hiking to snorkeling to helicopter rides. Here are two more posts about Kauai on Artsy Traveler:
My Kauai vacation highlights will get you going on exploring one of the most beautiful islands on Earth! Called the Garden Isle–and you’ll soon see why–Kauai is the perfect vacation destination if you’re looking for activity options in addition to great places to hang out and soak up the sunshine.
I visited Kauai for a ten-day solo trip during which I combined sightseeing and relaxing with working on my current novel. For tips on traveling solo on Kauai, checking out my post Ten Tips for Traveling Solo on Kauai. For an overview of traveling to and staying on Kauai, see What to See and Do on Kauai.
#1: Take a Helicopter Ride
Over three-quarters of Kauai is inaccessible by road, so if you want to see the island in its stunning entirety, shell out the big bucks for a helicopter ride. And I’m not going to lie—it’s expensive.
Andrew Doughty, author of the must-have Kauai Revealed Guidebook, includes a comprehensive evaluation of the various helicopter tour companies on Kauai and recommends Blue Hawaiian as the best. I can’t say whether that’s true, but I can say that I had an excellent experience with Blue Hawaiian. I paid extra to sit up front and had the most superb view imaginable.
Blue Hawaiian helicopter coming in for a landing on Kauai
The Helicopter Ride Begins
The 50-minute ride took us up over the resorts south of Lihue and then inland. At take-off, the theme from Hawaii Five-O played over our headsets. Shortly after, at the request of the pilot, we introduced ourselves using a small microphone shared between two people. I found out that the other five passengers were a family from New York and Sweden.
Taking off from Lihue airport and flying south over the cruise ship port
The music switched to the theme from Jurassic Park as the pilot swooped over the falls made famous in the movie. A huge rainbow arced across the valley and falls—a remnant of the downpours from the day before.
In fact, I had been booked to fly the day after I arrived, but inclement weather had grounded the choppers. Fortunately, I was rebooked for the following day. Not everyone is so lucky, so a good piece of advice is to book your helicopter ride at the beginning of your trip. If it’s canceled because of weather, you’ll have time to rebook.
Rainbow arcing over the interior Kauai as we head west toward Waimea Canyon
Waimea Canyon from the Air
Soon, the helicopter was soaring into the Waimea Canyon, nicknamed the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. I had already planned to drive up to the canyon, but it was wonderful to get a different perspective on the its multi-colored layers. They really did remind me of the other Grand Canyon.
View of Waimea Canyon–the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” from a helicopter
In between stretches of appropriately-themed music, the pilot provided an informative commentary. He pointed out interesting locations, shared facts and stories about Kauai and its history, and kept us thoroughly entertained. The occasional bouts of turbulence added to the excitement, although the woman next to me started to look a bit green toward the end of the trip.
Flying up the Nāpali Coast
The helicopter flew lazily up the famed Nāpali Coast. For a good thirty minutes, we turned and hovered, then swept into and out of deep-cut valleys and over the blue blue ocean. The only way to see the entire Nāpali coast is from the air.
Napali coast
Close-up of cliffs on the Napali coast
An alternative for close-up views is to hike the famed Kalalau Trail. In some places, the trail is only about 18 inches wide with sheer drops into the ocean. Rated a 10 out of 10 on the scale of the world’s most difficult hikes, the two-day in-and-out trek along the Kalalau Trail isn’t for the faint of heart.
It certainly isn’t for this heart!
Every minute of the helicopter trip revealed a new and alluring vista. Cloaked in lush green vegetation, the impossibly slender spires and knife-edge folds of the cliffs tumbled below us like pleated napkins at a cosmic wedding. I’ve never seen a landscape like it, except in movies like South Pacific and Pirates of the Caribbean, parts of which were shot here.
Spectacular cliffs on the Napali coast of Kauai
All too soon, the music faded, and the rotors ceased.That was the fastest fifty minutes I’ve ever experienced!
Gently, John the pilot set the helicopter down on terra firma, and with shaking legs I clambered out.
Looking out to sea on the Napali Coast
Beautiful beaches seen from the air in Kauai
Once back in the terminal, the pictures taken of the passengers before embarking were available along with a video of the entire journey. Although I’d snapped pictures almost non-stop throughout the trip, I knew they couldn’t compare with video shot from cameras mounted under the helicopter and accompanied by all the music and commentary.
So, of course, I plunked down the $60 to buy a memory stick containing the video. First, however, I confirmed that I could share it with readers on my website!
Video of My Blue Hawaiian Helicopter Ride
Here is the video of my entire Blue Hawaiian helicopter trip, divided into three parts:
Book a helicopter ride before you arrive on Kauai so that you can be sure of getting a flight. It will be the highlight of your trip.
And don’t worry about the weather. Blue Hawaiian checks the weather constantly before authorizing a flight. If the weather is inclement and you can’t be rebooked on a flight that works for your schedule, you’ll receive a full refund.
So, what have you got to lose? Book it!
#2: Take a Boat Ride
On Kauai, you can take boat trips along the Nāpali coast from Port Allen or Eleele on the South Shore or from Anini Beach on the North Shore. Most boat trips depart from the South Shore because the waters tend to be calmer year-round. However, much of the ride is spent looking at a rather uninteresting coastline. The tours of the North Shore reach the Nāpali coast very quickly, which is a huge bonus.
We set off from Anini Beach (a great place for swimming and snorkeling) and cruised up the coast. Within minutes of leaving the beach, we approached the cliffs I’d seen a few days earlier from the air. The boat held 16 passengers and so was small enough to get very close to the many sea caves.
I was glad I’d chosen a small boat tour rather than the large 50-person catamaran tours that depart from the South Shore. They may be a bit more luxurious, but the Nāpali Sea Breeze Tour felt homier and more personalized.
Cruising along the Napali Coast
One of the crew on the Napali Sea Breeze Tour
The captain and two crew members went out of their way to make the trip enjoyable, pointing out a pod of humpback whales and sharing stories about their lives on Kauai. The captain took the small boat very close to the sea caves gouged out of the cliffs all the way up the coast.
Getting close to caves on the Napali coast
Waterfall cascading into the ocean seen from the Napali Sea Breeze boat tour
Snorkeling on the Napali Sea Breeze Tour
After cruising the coastline for about three hours, we stopped at Tunnels Beach for snorkeling. The reef there is so large it can be seen from space. Luckily, after several pretty windy days, the water within the reef was calm and clear. Fish glinted and glimmered below me along with several lazily swimming turtles.
Few things are more restful than floating above a tropical reef and watching the sea life swim by.
Sea trutle swimming above a reef
Unfortunately, my boat trip didn’t end as well as it started for me. This is no reflection on the quality of the tour. I swallowed a bit too much sea water while snorkeling and was not feeling my best. As I climbed back on to the boat, the crew was setting out sandwiches and drinks and everyone was happily drying off and chowing down. I retreated to a seat at the back and looked resolutely out at the horizon in the hope that would settle my stomach.
On the way back, the ride got very bumpy with a whole lot of spray and roiling swells. The friendly couple next to me wanted to chat until finally I had to tell them I was feeling seasick and needed to stay very, very still. They were sympathetic!
But note to self (and to you!), take something for motion sickness before your boat trip, just in case.
Find Nāpali Sea Breeze Tours online. The 3-to-4-hour morning tour starts with a 7 AM shuttle bus ride to the boat at Anini Beach.
#3: Take a Garden Tour (or Two)
Kauai is home to several tropical gardens open to the public. I visited three of them—the Allerton Gardens and McBryde Gardens on the South Shore, and the Limahuli Gardens on the North Shore.
Allerton and McBryde Garden Tour
Located on the South Shore very close to the famous Spouting Horn blow hole, the Allerton and McBryde Gardens are part of the National Tropical Botanical Garden system that includes five gardens—Allerton and McBryde Gardens in the south and Limahuli Garden in the north, Kahanu Garden on Maui, and The Kampong in Coconut Grove, Florida.
I highly recommend the tour. You’ll learn a lot and see some amazing plants, and get to chat with fellow travelers and the guide during the many stops.
Setting off on the “Best of Both Worlds” Tour of the Allerton and McBryde Gardens on the South Shore of Kauai
The sixteen-seat minibus took seven of us through some of the most exquisite tropical gardens I’ve ever seen. I am a sucker for a well-designed garden, and the huge variety of plants on display did not disappoint.
Coolest tree ever seen on the “Best of Both Worlds” tour of the Allerton & McBryde Gardens on Kauai
Allerton Garden is named one of the ’50 Places of a Lifetime’ by National Geographic Traveler, while the McBryde Garden is an active conservation and research garden with Hawaiian cultural significance. It includes the world’s largest assemblage of native Hawaiian plants. Most of these plants grow only in Hawaii and many are threatened, endangered, or even extinct in the wild.
Together, the two gardens offered a comprehensive look at a fantastic array of trees, flowers, and fruits.
Exotic flowers abound
Orchids everywhere
What to See on the Best of Both Worlds Tour
Every so often, the driver stopped the bus and took us on a walking tour to view the plants up close. We saw familiar fruits such as pineapples, papayas and mangoes as well as new-to-me fruits such as breadfruit and a species of wild cherry that tasted wonderful. We also saw many species of orchid along with some truly remarkable trees and several birds.
Atula–possibly extinct in the wild, but being rehabilitated in the gardens
This guy followed us throughout the orchard
Gorgeous views over the gardens
A highlight was a stop at the “Jurassic Park Trees” where several scenes from the movie were filmed. The guide happened to have her own T Rex along with her for the ride.
Help!
The gardens also include several beautiful classically-inspired pools and sculptures in various “rooms”. Here are two of the pools I particularly liked. Notice how they are thoughtfully designed to reflect the surrounding trees and vegetation.
Temple of Diana
Series of pools
One note of warning if you are planning to take a guided tour—take mosquito repellent and a tube of After Bite. I did not follow this advice and paid dearly with a few pounds of my tasty flesh offered up to the mosquitoes. Voracious little blighters! I wondered why the guide was sensibly dressed in long pants and running shoes.
Limahuli Garden and Preserve
I visited the Limahuli Garden and Preserve when I was staying on the North Shore. Located not far before the road along the North Shore ends at Haena State Park, this marvelous site is a lovely, cool respite from crowded beaches and busy towns.
Its setting at the base of the “Bali Hai” mountain (yes, the same mountain that stood in for Bali Hai in South Pacific) makes it feel very remote and Hawaiian.
Panoramic view over the Limahuli Gardens on the North Shore of Kauai
I opted for the self-guided tour which I’d booked in advance. With most if not all of the gardens on Kauai requiring advance reservations, make sure to book before you leave home.
Armed with a bottle of water and the booklet provided with my ticket, I set off from the tiny visitors’ center to explore. Many of the plants grown in the gardens are ones that are endangered or almost extinct. The mandate of the garden is to conserve, preserve and where possible propagate them.
Gorgeous flower in Limahuli Gardens
LIke a drop of sunshine in Limahuli Gardens
I learned that the vast majority of the flowers, shrubs and trees that make Kauai so beautiful are actually invasive species that are choking out native Hawaiian species to the detriment of the ecosystem.
The area was home to ancient Hawaiians who planted “canoe gardens” containing plants brought in the large canoes that sailed from Polynesia over 1000 years ago.
Here’s a 360-degree view of Limahuli Gardens from a viewpoint overlooking the ocean in one direction and the “Bali Hai” mountains in the other direction.
I had the gardens almost to myself. It was lovely and peaceful and the views spectacular. I took my time and made use of the many shaded benches on the self-guided route to stop and read about the plants I was passing and admire the extensive conservation work being done.
Other Gardens on Kauai
So many gardens are worth visiting on Kauai! I wish I’d had time to visit them all. Here are some other notable gardens on Kauai.
Princeville Botanical Gardens
Located on the North Shore near Princeville, tours of these gardens include fruit and chocolate tastings (sounds good!). The gardens cultivate a diverse collection of native and “canoe” plants, medicinals, and rare and endangered flowers. Advance reservations for guided tours are required. Self-guided tours are not available.
Na’Aina Botanical Gardens & Sculpture Park
Also located on the North Shore, the Na’Aina Botanical Gardens and Sculpture Park is run by a not-for-profit organization dedicated to conservation and preservation. A variety of guided tours to the formal gardens, wild forest gardens and Kaluakai Beach are provided, along with a self-guided tour of the formal gardens. Reservations are required for all tours which run weekly on a limited schedule.
Smith’s Tropical Paradise
This lush 30-acre garden park on the East Shore is located within the Wailua Marina State Park and features over a mile of meandering pathways through tropical splendor that includes wandering peacocks and other birds. There are tropical orchards with over twenty types of fruit, bamboo and fruit forests, a Japanese-themed garden island, and replicas of Polynesian and Filipino huts.
#4: Drive to Waimea Canyon and Beyond
Set aside three to four hours to drive from the South Shore to Waimea Canyon (the Grand Canyon of the Pacific) then continue on to the lookouts over the Nāpali coast.
Two roads lead up to Waimea Canyon—the Waimea Canyon Road (Highway 550) that starts from Waimea Town and Kōkeʻe Road (Highway 552) that starts from Kekaha a few miles to the west. The two roads merge within Kōkeʻe State Park which leads to Waimea State Park.
Waimea Canyon
I drove up Highway 552 and had the wide, sweeping road all to myself. In fact, I was a bit worried I was on the wrong road because I knew that Waimea Canyon was a major tourist attraction. Fortunately, my GPS did not let me down and after a dizzying ascent, I pulled into the parking lot with the first and most panoramic view over the canyon.
“Grand Canyon of the Pacific” – Waimea Canyon on Kauai
I paid $15 for all-day access to all the parking lots in the park which include views over both the Waimea Canyon and the Napali Coast, then set off up the pathway to the railings to get my first glimpse of Waimea Canyon.
In front of Waimea Canyon
In front of the Kalalau Valley Lookout
Oh yeah! I’d seen it already from the helicopter, but the view from the rim was different and somehow more expansive. Here’s a short video I shot of the canyon.
Back in the car and on to the Puʻu Hinahina Lookout at mile marker 13.5. From this lookout, the Waimea River winding through the canyon is visible. While not as expansive as the view from the first lookout, this view provides another, interesting perspective on the canyon.
After driving several more miles, I passed Kōkeʻe Lodge Cabins and Campground where, according to my trusty Kauai Revealed driving app, the only restaurant in the park was located. I vowed to return for lunch and pressed on.
The Kauai Revealed app advised me to drive right past the second-to last lookout at mile marker 18 and go straight across a tire-popping stretch of potholed road to Puʻu o-Kila at mile marker 19. This is the end of the road and the best place from which to view the Nāpali Coast and Kalalau Valley. By this point in my Kauai vacation, I’d seen the Nāpali coast from the sea and from the air. Seeing it from the road was just as awesome.
Best view of the Kalalau Valley from the Puʻu o-Kila Lookout
I was fortunate that the view of the very blue Pacific far below was clear. Often, it’s shrouded in mist and clouds. While I was admiring the view, the clouds started rolling in and by the time I left, the view was definitely compromised.
Here’s a video of the view taken just moments before the clouds started rolling in.
I drove back to the Kalalau Lookout at mile marker 18 and then, feeling a trifle overwhelmed by amazing views, settled down for a pulled pork sandwich at the Kōkeʻe Lodge. It was one of the better lunches I enjoyed on Kauai.
I took the Waimea Canyon Road (Highway 550) back down to the coast, enjoying stupendous views of the ocean below me as I swept down the mountain. I wish I could have snapped a few pictures, but that would not have been a good idea while driving!
#5: Make Friends with the Chickens
Chickens, chicks, and roosters are everywhere on Kauai. You notice them as soon as you check in to your hotel. They strut and waddle around the gardens clucking and crowing and scrounging for food. But don’t feed them—there’s a $500 fine.
I grew very fond of the chickens on Kauai, even when the roosters woke me up every morning with their raucous cock-a-doodle-doos. But at least they got me out of bed in time to see the sunrise so how could I object?
A rooster crows
Momma chicken with her chicks hitching a ride
The roosters in particular are very colorful and seem to be well aware of how cool they look. I spent many happy minutes watching them strut past. Equally fun to watch were the chickens with their chicks. Often the chicks hitched a ride tucked in mom’s feathers.
Why all the feral chickens? The early Hawaiians brought chickens to the island when they arrived about 1000 years ago. Then, subsequent waves of settlers brought their own chickens. When Hurricane Iwa hit in 1982 and then Hurricane Iniki in 1992, the coops blew open and the domesticated chickens escaped and bred with the feral chickens.
Sounds plausible!
#6: Catch all the Sunrises & Sunsets
Make time every day to see both the sunrise and the sunset. Being in the tropics, night and day are pretty much the same duration so it’s a good idea to get up early so you can enjoy the maximum amount of daylight. I rose at 6 AM on the first morning to catch the sunrise around 6:20 and never looked back.
Every day from then on, I set my alarm for 6, jumped out of bed, pulled on a dress and padded out to view the sunrise to the accompaniment of the always early-rising roosters.
Sunrise from the East Coast
Sunrise from the South Coast
And here’s sunrise from the North Shore:
You can enjoy both the sunrise and the sunset from pretty much anywhere on the island.
At the end of most days, I caught some spectacular sunsets. Here are a few.
Sunset from Hanalei Bay
Sunset from the South Shore
Every sunrise and sunset was different and every one magnificent.
Hiking on Kauai
One activity that is a definite highlight of a trip to Kauai that I don’t mention is hiking. Kauai is a marvelous place for hiking, with miles and miles of world-class trails leading to jaw-dropping views.
However, since I was traveling solo, I chose not to go hiking on my own.
But if you’re into hiking, check out the suggestions in Andrew Doughty’s Kauai Revealed Guidebook.
I could have used several more days on Kauai to explore other highlights such as the Wailua Falls, the three gardens I missed, Haena State Park, and even more beaches. I’d also like to visit the grounds of the Hindu Monastery and Himalayan Academy. Nestled on the banks of the Wailua River near the East Coast, the Hindu Monastery is set in gorgeous grounds that are open in the mornings but require reservations (which I failed to get in time).
One of the main things I loved about visiting Kauai was how easily I could divide my time between sightseeing, relaxing, and writing. Driving distances are relatively short so reaching any given site doesn’t take much time.
And there was always a beach to flop down on and watch the waves roll in.
Traveling solo on Kauai is safe, easy, and convenient. The island is compact and very comfortable to drive around with nominal help from GPS. As a solo traveler, you’ll find plenty to see and do, good accommodation options, and friendly people.
Kauai is not a budget destination, so bear that in mind when planning to travel solo on Kauai. But if you have the funds, Kauai is an excellent choice. You’ll find a terrific opportunities to explore, with lots of options for sightseeing and relaxing.
I spent ten days on traveling solo on Kauai and had a marvelous time. So much variety. And the views! Kauai wins the Hawaii gorgeousness sweepstakes hands down. No wonder Kauai is known as the Garden Isle.
In this post, I share ten tips for traveling solo on Kauai. For more on Kauai, check out my other posts:
Ready for my ten tips on traveling solo on Kauai? Here goes!
Sunrise from the beach at Kauai Beach Villas on the East Coast of Kauai
Tip 1: Stay the First Night or Two Close to the Airport
I flew direct from Vancouver, BC, on WestJet. Its once-daily flight arrived at 9:30 PM. By that time, darkness had well and truly settled over Kauai. If I hadn’t have booked accommodation close to the airport, I’d have been driving on dark, unfamiliar roads—many without streetlights. No thank you!
When traveling solo, I suggest you make accommodation and transportation decisions based on how you answer three questions:
Is it easy?
Is it safe?
Is it convenient?
For my solo trip to Kauai, my answers to these questions led me to book my first few nights at the Kauai Beach Villas. Located on a beach a seven-minute drive due north on the main road out of Lihue Airport, I couldn’t get lost if I tried.
Kauai Beach Villas Close to the Airport Perfect for Solo Travelers
Checking into the Kauai Beach Villas was easy. The front desk was still open when I arrived at 10:30 PM, the spacious one-bedroom condo felt very safe and secure, and the location steps from the beach could not have been more convenient.
Living room, dining room, and garden view lanai – the one-bedroom suite at Kauai Beach Villas
On the beach steps from Kauai Beach Villas
Even if you arrive on Kauai during the day, I suggest you book a few nights at a place like the Kauai Beach Villas on Kauai’s East Shore. Otherwise known as the Coconut Coast, the area is home to most of Kauai’s population and includes several big box stores convenient for stocking up on essentials at slightly less than eye-popping prices.
Coconut palms are everywhere on Kauai’s East Coast
The area also boasts some of Kauai’s nicest and most accessible beaches. And, even more useful, its proximity to Lihue Airport means you don’t have to drive far to enjoy the first of my highly recommended activities on Kauai—taking a helicopter ride (more on this later!).
Other Accommodation Options on the East Shore
Several other East Shore accommodation options are close to Lihue Airport:
Normally, I’m not a fan of stores like Costco and Walmart. But on Kauai, I spent a few hours on my first afternoon traipsing through both stores in search of vacation essentials at reasonable prices. In Costco, I picked up a case of water, a large bag of macadamia nuts that lasted me the entire trip eating a good handful a day (gosh, they’re tasty!), a Hawaiian shirt for my husband (a bargain at $20 and good quality too), a few bags of snacks, and a hunk of cheese.
I considered a tub of poke for $10 and realized I’d never finish it before it started walking on its own. Messing with raw fish is not a good idea when traveling solo.
I also visited Walmart to buy a mask and snorkel, a pair of water shoes, and a nice big beach bag to carry towels and other beachie things. You can rent snorkel equipment at various places on Kauai, but it’s cheaper (and more hygienic) to pick up the gear at a place like Walmart. You’ll then have it for your next trip to a tropical paradise.
Since I live on an island (albeit not a tropical one), I look forward to using my new snorkel gear on summer swims at the beaches near my home.
Tip 2: Rent a Car
You pretty much have to rent a car when visiting Kauai. I had hoped to get around on public transit or take taxis, but nope, not on Kauai. There are busses, but apparently they are unreliable and likely won’t go to all the places you want to explore. Services such as Lyft and Uber are not prevalent on Kauai and taxis are scarce.
The biggest problem with renting a car is the cost, as in, ouch! I’ve never paid so much for a ten-day car rental in my life. But it was either that or spend my vacation stuck in one place, and what would be the point of that?
So, adjust your budget upward (waaaay upward), and book your car well in advance. In recent years, rental cars have sometimes been hard to come by. You don’t want to arrive on Kauai and find no cars available. That would suck…a lot.
Car Rental from Thrifty
As a solo traveler, I rented the cheapest car in the budget category from Thrifty. The friendly agent at the Thrifty counter upgraded me at no extra charge from a hatchback to a closed trunk model because she said that was safer. She knew I was traveling on my own (because I told her!). I joked that I’d left my husband at home so I could enjoy ten days of blissful solitude. She laughed.
Getting to the car rental counter is very easy on Kauai. Walk out of the small Lihue airport, hang a left and within seconds, you’re at the bus stop for the car rental shuttles. I hopped on the Thrifty shuttle, waited about ten minutes in a short line, and ten minutes after that I was loading my suitcase into my silver Kia.
My trusty silver Kia took me over 440 miles around Kauai in 10 days
Note that silver is a very popular color for rental cars in Kauai. In parking lots, I often saw dozens of silver and/or white cars. More than once, I tried getting into someone else’s car. Fortunately, they weren’t around to notice as I quickly realized my mistake and sheepishly moved on.
The smartest thing to do is to take a picture of your license plate and also memorize the number. You’ll avoid a lot of traipsing around parking lots dolefully clicking the remote and listening for the subtle beep above the whooshing of the trade winds.
Driving Solo on Kauai
I confess that I was a little bit worried about driving on unfamiliar roads. I’m not a nervous driver, but still! I usually rent cars with my husband and then I do the navigating rather than the driving. How would I manage on my own?
As it turned out, perfectly well. Driving is sooooooo easy on Kauai because the speed limits are generally very low. Limits of 40 mph, 35 mph, and even 15 mph are common. Even on the busiest roads near the airport, the speed limit never tops 50 mph. Also, I found that most Kauai drivers obey the speed limits and do not tailgate, even if you’re going slower than the posted speed.
Okay, once, a big black truck honked at me when I was going about 30 mph in a 40-mph zone for about three minutes. Sheesh!
I remember being terrified driving on Maui where the speed limits were much higher (at least they were a few years ago) and people drove like maniacs. Kauai is much more laid back. I loved driving there!
Tip 3: Download the Kauai Revealed Touring App
And speaking of driving, one of the smartest things you can do, whether traveling solo or not, is to download Andrew Doughty’s Kauai Revealed driving app. Andrew Doughty is the author of The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook, the definitive guide to Kauai and a must-buy. If you didn’t pick up a copy before coming to Kauai, no worries. I saw it in virtually every gift shop I visited and at Walmart.
The app and the guidebook together provide you with just about all the information you need to enjoy a wonderful Kauai vacation. I followed many of Andrew’s recommendations, particularly when it came to which helicopter and boat tour companies to choose, and I was very glad I had.
What’s on the Kauai Revealed App?
Regarding Andrew’s app, it’s a hoot! Download it to your phone, click Driving Mode, plug it into your car so you hear Andrew’s commentary through the car’s sound system, and then hit the open road.
Every so often, Andrew’s voice shares some snippet of interesting information about Hawaiian history and culture, tells you where to turn to visit a cool beach, and makes all sorts of useful recommendations. As a solo traveler, I felt like I’d made a new friend.
Download the Kauai Revealed Drive Tour App to get the most out of driving around Kauai
Over time, I began to chat with Andrew as I drove, which sounds a bit creepy, but it was kinda fun and perhaps an occupational risk of solo travel. I can’t say I was ever lonely on my trip, but I did begin to appreciate having Andrew along for the ride as the days flew by.
For solo travelers who don’t have a companion to navigate, the driving app is a must-have. I’m a firm convert to driving apps now and hope I can find them for other places I plan to travel. Andrew also has apps and books for Maui, The Big Island, and Oahu.
Tip 4: Stay in At Least Two Areas on Kauai
As a solo traveler, I like to move around and get a feel for different areas in the country or region I’m visiting. On Kauai, some travelers settle in either the north or the south (sometimes the east, but not as often) for the duration of their trip and then take day trips to see the other parts of the island.
I don’t think that’s the best strategy. The North Shore and South Shore of Kauai are so different that each warrants at least a few days of dedicated sightseeing. After staying a few days at Kauai Beach Villas on the East Shore to get acclimatized, I drove an hour to the North Shore where I stayed for four nights.
Staying on the North Shore
The North Shore is the wetter and more tropical area accessible by road on Kauai and the scenery is absolutely spectacular. Seriously, there are not enough superlatives in the thesaurus to describe the area’s pristine beaches, tropical greenery, and sheer mountains.
I stayed in the SeaLodge condo development in Princeville, which stretches along a clifftop about fifteen minutes east of Hanalei Bay. One of my intentions in traveling solo to Kauai was to work on my current WIP (Work in Progress aka my fifth novel). When I wasn’t out sightseeing, I spent several very productive hours writing while overlooking a view of palms and ocean accompanied by the constant sound of waves crashing against the beach below the cliff.
View from my balcony
Exterior of SeaLodge condo on Kauai’s North Shore
Talk about inspiring!
Staying on the South Shore
The South Shore is “resort central” with plenty to see and do, lots of great accommodation and restaurant options, and consistently sunny weather. I stayed at the Point at Poipu which was located right on the water and next door to the uber-luxurious Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa.
My writing room on the lanai at the Point at the Point on Kauai’s South Shore
You’ll find lots to do on the South Shore—from touring the Allerton and McBryde Gardens to driving up to ogle Waimea Canyon and beyond that the fabled Nāpali coast.
Okay, so I’ve mentioned taking a helicopter ride twice already and now I’ll tell you why.
Because it’s awesome!
A Blue Hawaiian helicopter comes in for a landing on Kauai
Over three-quarters of Kauai is inaccessible by road. So, if you want to see the island in its stunning entirety, shell out the big bucks for a helicopter ride.
And I’m not going to lie—it’s expensive. Like, forget-eating-for-a-week expensive. On my ride, the other five passengers were from one family. I shuddered as I did the math for what their trip cost!
I love snorkeling! But as a solo traveler, I was nervous about snorkeling on my own and leaving my stuff unattended on the beach (although the crime rate is reportedly low on Kauai). I also feared going too far out and being swept into the Pacific Ocean.
From past trips to tropical locales, I knew that taking a guided boat trip was the best and safest way for me to get my snorkeling hit.
See the stunning Napali coast from a boat tour with Napali Sea Breeze Tours
From a solo travel perspective, spending four hours on a small boat with everyone pretty much cheek by jowl provides lots of opportunities to chat with new friends. When we came to the snorkeling place, we were asked to pair up, so I snorkeled for about 40 minutes with a friendly woman from California whose husband, fortunately for me, decided to stay on the boat.
For now, trust me when I say that the Nāpali Sea Breeze Tour from Anini Beach in the north of Kauai was fabulous and again, worth every penny.
Tip 7: Go on a Garden Tour
As a solo traveler, I find that taking the occasional guided tour is a smart way to see maximum territory with minimum effort. Before I left home, I booked the three-hour “Best of Both Worlds” tour of the Allerton and McBryde Gardens in the south of Kauai.
See some seriously amazing plants and trees on a tour of the Allerton and McBryde Gardens on South Shore of Kauai
I was so glad I did. The tour was informative and beautiful. If you love plants (and even if you’re so-so about them), take the tour. You can choose from several tours (see the website), but I’m glad I chose the “Best of Both Worlds” tour to get an overview of these two fabulous gardens.
I also enjoyed a solo walking tour of Limahuli Gardens on the North Shore.
One of my favorite things to do when I travel solo is to drop in to a Nia class. Nia is a dance-fitness practice that I’ve been involved with both as a teacher and a student for nearly 15 years. It’s a worldwide practice with teachers on all seven continents. Before I leave home, I always check the Nianow.com website to find the location of classes near where I’m staying.
On Kauai, I took two Nia classes at the Golden Lotus Studio in Kapa’a on the East Shore, about a ten-minute drive from the Kauai Beach Villas. The teacher and other students were so warm and welcoming. I loved the opportunity not only to dance with them but also to chat afterwards and learn something about their lives as locals living on Kauai (lucky them!).
Me with Nia teacher Isabelle Winninger Fisher before Nia class on Kauai
Even if dancing Nia isn’t your thing, consider checking out a yoga or other type of fitness class at a facility on Kauai. The Golden Lotus Studio offers several kinds of classes each week (check the website) and I’m sure it’s not the only venue.
Attending a class with locals is a wonderful way to enrich your Kauai experience and take you off the beaten tourist path.
Tip 9: Choose Food Trucks and Take-Out
Restaurants are Kauai are expensive. Very expensive. And eating alone is not much fun, particularly in crowded tourist areas. When I’m at home, I often dine alone in restaurants. But for some reason when I’m in a vacation area, I feel a bit out of place when the vast majority of other patrons are couples or families.
So, for me, the best meal options while traveling in Kauai were food trucks and take-out.
A food truck serving Indian food in Kaa’pa on Kauai
Food Trucks
Kauai is famous—and justly so—for its food trucks. Stop and enjoy a scrumptious breakfast or lunch. However, many, if not most, of the food trucks close about 3 PM, so they are not an option for dinner.
I sampled the fare at a few food trucks during my trip, although not as many as I would have liked. Either they were closed when I was driving by, or I wasn’t hungry when they were open. But for a reliable and relatively inexpensive lunch, the food trucks of Kauai are definitely a good choice.
For a comprehensive look at Kauai food trucks, check out this post.
Here are two highlights:
Kalalea Juice Hale
This spot is located on the road going north toward Anahola. I sampled my first acai (ah-sigh-EE) bowl here and was captivated! Cool, smooth, very purple mashed acai berries are topped with granola, hemp seeds, chia seeds, banana, and a few other things I can’t remember and then drizzled with peanut butter. I know, it sounds like overkill but trust me, it was divine.
My first acai bowl from Kalalea Juice Hale near Anahola Beach on the East Shore of Kauai
While I was eating it at a picnic table, the heavens opened. I ran to my car and drove to Anahola Beach to finish my bowl. Anahola Beach is a worthwhile stop for dreamy views, but not for swimming, at least not on the day I was there.
I ate my acai bowl while enjoying this view from Anahola Beach
Indian Food
The prawn curry I enjoyed at the Indian food truck in a parking lot in Kapa’a contained a plethora of plump, meaty prawns swimming in a spicy, rich coconut-flavored sauce. A highlight was the chunky, flavorful mango lassi that accompanied my curry. Very refreshing!
Prawn curry – rich and delicious with a mango lassi from a Ka’paa food truck
Other Food Truck Favorites
So many of the food truck serve tacos of every description—pork, chicken, prawns, seafood and even tofu. Kauai seems to have more taco joints than Mexico!
Other food truck staples are shaved ice and puka dogs. Alas, I didn’t get the chance to sample either. However, I did try another Kauai specialty—a Hawaiian grilled cheese sandwich containing pulled Kalua pork, Muenster cheese, and sweet pineapple at Pink’s Creamery in Hanalei Bay. Yes, it sounds a bit odd, but it was amazing!
Take-out
In Kauai, every restaurant I poked my nose into was hopping busy. I didn’t like taking up a whole table when groups were waiting and so usually I ordered take-out and ate it it in solitary splendor back on my lanai.
Unfortunately, take-out was rather hit-or-miss. The food was usually quite flavorful, but by the time I got it home, it was also usually cold. Fortunately, every place I stayed in had a microwave, but it’s not the same, let’s face it! And don’t think you’ll save money by getting take-out. The prices are the same for take-out and dine-in so the only thing you might save on is drinks.
I bought wine from local grocery stores to accompany my take-out meals. Once, I went to the bar at the Kauai Beach Resort to have a Mai Tai. After sipping the over-sweet concoction that cost over $20, I decided to forgo the tropical drinks.
Overall, I can’t say that my culinary experiences on Kauai lived up to the island’s reputation as a place to get great food. I think staff shortages may be one culprit. Almost every place I went, from a food truck to a nice restaurant, I saw Help Wanted signs. The lack of staff coupled with the crowds did not make for relaxing dining options, particularly for a single.
Shout-out to Brennekes
However, I must give a shout-out to Brennekes, a justifiably famous eatery on the South Shore overlooking Poipu Beach Park. I splurged on a sit-down meal there (my only one of the trip) and enjoyed a swoon-worthy plate of seafood risotto. Creamy, rich, and chock-a-block with scallops, prawns, fish chunks, and mushrooms, the risotto will stand as one of my all-time great meals.
Creamy, rich seafood risotto was the best meal of my trip at Brenneckes on Kauai’s South Shore
Tip 10: Choose the Safest Beaches
Kauai has some of the best beaches in the Hawaiian Islands—long sandy stretches, turquoise waters, swaying palm trees—the whole tropical nine yards. However, the beaches can also be death traps, particularly for the solo traveler.
People drown every year on Kauai as a result of being caught in rip tides or swept out to sea by rogue waves. If you’re on your own, who will be watching out for you if you get into trouble? Hopefully, there will be a lifeguard close by, but I wasn’t about to take any chances.
Take warnings like this seriously!
Almost every day I was on Kauai, the water at most beaches was too rough for swimming. I found only two places where I could consistently swim, and even they could get quite choppy.
Swimming on the North Shore
My favorite safe beach on the North Shore was Anini Beach. The lagoon is ringed by a reef and so safe enough even for children (and solo travelers like me!). I went there a few times to bob around.
Anini Beach on Kauai’s North Shore
Also on the North Shore is Tunnels Beach which, like Anini Beach, is reputed to be safe for swimming most of the time. The day I drove there, I couldn’t find parking so only got to see it the day I swam from the boat during the Nāpali Sea Breeze tour. Oh well!
Swimming on the South Shore
On the South Shore, Poipu Beach at Poipu Beach Park is ranked as one of the best beaches in the world. That is a bit of a stretch since the bottom is not very sandy (water shoes are a must!). However, the location is certainly delightful and the snorkeling good.
Poipu Beach on Kauai’s South Shore
On the East Shore, Lydgate Beach Park is usually safe for swimming but the day I was there, the wind was whipping the waves into a white-capped frenzy so, um, no.
The safest way to swim on Kauai is to hop into the pool at your hotel or condo. Sure, it’s not as exciting as swimming in the ocean, but it’s refreshing, generally uncrowded, and your chances of waving goodbye to this life while being swept out to sea are pretty much nil.
I loved traveling solo around Kauai. The pace was relaxed, the weather glorious (even if occasionally windy), the roads easy to drive, the service people uniformly helpful and friendly, and the scenery to die for.
If you’re craving a bit of “me time” away from your regular life, consider taking a solo trip to Kauai.
Aloha!
Have you traveled solo on Kauai? Share your recommendations in the Comments below.
This ten-day itinerary works well if you have a limited time and you want to explore, at a reasonably leisurely pace, two of France’s most iconic areas–Paris and the south of France, specifically the Riviera and Provence.
France is a large country and best savored by spending at least two days in each place you plan to visit.
Overview of 10-Day France Itinerary
Here’s an overview of an itinerary that provides you with a taste of fabulous Paris (just enough to make you want to return!), four days split between two of the most scenic areas of Provence, and finally two days of sun and fun on the Riviera.
Days 1 to 3: Arrive in Paris on Day 1 and spend three nights in Paris, leaving on the morning of Day 4.
Days 4 and 5: Take the TGV to Avignon, pick up a rental car at the TGV station and drive east into the Luberon. Spend two nights in Rousillon or Gordes for a super Provence hit.
Days 6 and 7: Drive to Aix-en-Provence and spend two nights there; explore nearby Arles, Les Baux-de-Provence, or the Camargue.
Days 8 to 10: Drive to the coast and spend two nights in Antibes, Vence, or Cannes. Drop off the car at Nice airport and fly home.
Following are my suggestions for what to see in Paris and the South (particularly artsy sites!) and some recommendations for accommodations.
Three days in Paris is nowhere near long enough to fully enjoy one of the world’s most fabulous cities, but it is long enough to explore most of the big bang sites. I’ll get to sightseeing suggestions in a minute, but first, consider where you wish to put down temporary Parisian roots. To my mind, making sure you stay in an interesting part of Paris is almost as important as seeing the sights.
Find an interesting Parisian neighborhood to settle in, even if only for a few days
Choosing Your Parisian Neighborhood
Before and after you go touring around the city, you want to be able to walk to great restaurants and cafes, enjoy people-watching, and have quick access to the Seine for long, leisurely evening strolls to see the lights.
My preferred neighborhoods to stay in Paris are either the fifth or the sixth arrondisements on the Left Bank. Yes, you can save money by getting a hotel near the péripherique (the multi-lane ring road that circles Paris) and then taking the Métro into Paris for sightseeing, but don’t succumb to the temptation unless your budget is really tight.
A few times over the years, I’ve stayed at soulless chain hotels on the edges of Paris, and each time it was a mistake. I may have saved a few Euros, but I also wasted too many hours getting to and from the cool areas of Paris. Instead of ending each evening watching the illuminated bateau mouches glide along the Seine with the sparkling Eiffel Tower in the distance before tumbling a few minutes later into a warm bed, I endured long, rattling Métro rides followed by quick walks through some pretty sketchy neighborhoods.
Like all major cities, Paris has its fair share of dreary, and sometimes even unsafe areas, I’m sorry to say, and while you can still find some nice places to eat and enjoy Parisian street life out by the péripherique, I’d stick with the arrondisements closest to the river and the Île de la Cité.
If you’re in Paris for longer than a few days, consider renting an apartment. I’ve stayed in some great apartments in Montparnasse, the Marais, and Saint-Germain. But for short stays, I almost always head for the fifth and sixth arrondisements on the Left Bank.
This reasonably-priced (for Paris) hotel is on a quiet side street in the sixth arrondisement, a few blocks from the lively area around rue Bonaparte and Boulevard Saint-Germain. We stayed there for three nights and loved the neighborhood, which is quintessentially Parisian and not too touristy. I spent many happy hours writing and people-watching at a cafe on the corner of the Boulevard Saint-Germain and Rue du Bac (where there’s also a convenient Metro station) about a three-minute walk from the hotel. The staff was great, the beds comfy, and the location quiet but still central.
Sixth Arrondisement
Sometimes referred to as Luxembourg because it contains the Luxembourg Gardens, the sixth arrondisement is probably still the area in Paris I most like to stay in. In recent years, it’s gotten very chi-chi and can be a bit touristy and expensive, but I still love wandering its narrow streets, window shopping and finding great little cafés to while away an afternoon. I like the area so much that I had the heroine of my novel Love Among the Recipes rent an apartment on rue Bonaparte right across the street from Les Deux Magots, one of the most famous cafés in Paris.
Back in the day, French intellectuals such as Simone de Bouvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre discussed philosophy in Les Deux Magots and its equally historic neighbor the Café de Flore. Nowadays the prices for a café crème at either place might make you weep, so walk a few blocks toward the Luxembourg Gardens and you’ll find more reasonable and less crowded alternatives.
Montparnasse
A little farther south past the Luxembourg Gardens is Montparnasse, another cool and less touristy area to stay. Back in the 1920s, Montparnasse was the haunt of artists, including Giorgio de Chirico, Amedeo Modigliani, Vassili Kandinsky, Max Ernst, Joan Miró, and Alberto Giacometti. For that reason alone, we enjoy staying in Montparnasse. It’s a few Métro stops away from the Seine, but within walking distance of the Luxembourg Gardens. The area abounds with cool restaurants such as La Rotunde on Boulevard Montparnasse where many artists and intellectuals congregated back in the day. Hotel prices can also be a little bit more reasonable in this area.
I also recommend the Hôtel A La Villa des Artistes, which is the first hotel we stayed in on our first trip to Paris as a family when our daughter was eight years old. Located close to the Vavin Metro, the hotel is also a short walk to the Luxembourg Gardens where our daughter spent many happy hours in a smartly designed playground.
I also enjoy staying in the fifth arrondisement near the Boulevard Saint Michel. Like the sixth, the fifth is one of the oldest areas of Paris with plenty of winding side streets and one of my favorite museums, the Cluny (sadly still closed until 2023). We’ve stayed at the Hôtel Le Clos Médicis which has a great location about a block from the Luxembourg Gardens near the Boulevard Saint Michel. The rooms are pricey and quite small but very well-appointed and comfortable.
Search for more hotels in Paris. Also check out my post about finding accommodation in France for general tips about finding good places to stay.
What to See in Paris
Where to start? On a three-day visit to Paris, I recommend the sites described below. I suggest checking out two or at the most three each day and then leaving plenty of time for wandering around your new neighborhood, sipping coffee in cafés and going out for dinner.
Eiffel Tower
Yes, it’s touristy and over-priced and super crowded, but you have to go up the Eiffel Tower at least once. I recommend going at night when the crowds are considerably less and the views are just as breath-taking. Buy tickets in advance from the official website.
The Louvre
The Louvre is massive, over-crowded, expensive, and magnificent. The key to visiting the Louvre with ease is to focus on one or two areas at most. There’s a great deal of art in the Louvre, and while all of it is amazing, some pieces are more amazing than others.
A visit to the Louvre is a must-do in Paris for art lovers
When you enter the pyramid and descend the escalator to the center of the Louvre, you’re faced with three wings: Sully, Richelieu, and Denon. Most visitors make a beeline for the Denon wing because that’s where some of the most famous artworks in the world are displayed, including the Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci. Unless you have a burning desire to stand in a massive crowd bristling with pickpockets so you can peer over the tops of heads to see a tiny, glass-enclosed painting on a single wall, I’d give Mona a miss. If you do want to see her, arrive early, or drop by just before the museum closes.
Suggested Way to Enjoy the Louvre
A better and less headache-inducing option is to head for the far end of the Denon wing and work your way back. You’ll pass several remarkable pieces, including The Raft of the Medusa by Géricault, Autumnby Giuseppe Arcimboldo, Liberty Leading the People by Delacroix, Saint John the Baptist by Leonardo da Vinci, and La Grande Odalisque by Ingres (one of my faves).
Depending on your interests, you may also want to take a quick walk through the Greek, Roman, and Egyptian Antiquities in the Sully wing. The key to enjoying the Louvre is to pace yourself. You absolutely cannot see all of it in one visit.
Visiting the Louvre
You must book a time-slot to visit the Louvre. Check the website for details. The museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm daily except Tuesdays.
Sainte-Chapelle
The exquisite Sainte-Chapelle on the Île de la Cité is still one of my all-time favorite Parisian sites. I make time for a visit every time I go to Paris. Its other-worldly beauty will literarlly stop you in your tracks. Guaranteed.
The best way to see and really enjoy Sainte-Chapelle is to get tickets for a concert. You’ll experience its awesomeness without crowds while soaring to the heavens on the wings of sublime music. For me, a perfect Parisian evening starts with a 7 pm concert at Sainte Chapelle followed by a walk across Île de la Cité to enjoy dinner on medieval Île Saint Louis. Check out this website to buy concert tickets.
I’d usually include Note Dame Cathedral in my list of must-sees in Paris, but unfortunately it is undergoing repairs after the devastating fire in 2019.
The upper chapel in Sainte-Chapelle
Sainte-Chapelle is open from 11 am to 7 pm and reservations are required. Get tickets for priority access.
The Musée d’Orsay
I love visiting the Musée d’Orsay maybe even more than the Louvre. It’s a little less crowded and not nearly so large. It also displays some of the most-loved works of art by Manet, Morisot, van Gogh, Monet, and a lot more. To avoid the crowds, buy your tickets in advance and go early in the day. Head first for the fifth floor so you can enjoy the most popular paintings accompanied in relative peace.
Take your time wandering from room to room and then stop by the café behind the large clock–the original from when the Musée d’Orsay was a train station.
The Musée d’Orsay is on the Left Bank in Paris
The Pompidou
If you are a fan of mid twentieth-century modern art, then the fourth floor of the Pompidou Centre is your happy place. Room after room after room displays masterpieces by modern painters including Matisse, Pollock, Miro, and a lot more. The area around the Pompidou Centre is also fun, particularly the Stravinsky Fountain. Linger for awhile to people watch.
Stravinsky Fountain near the Pompidou Centre
Buy tickets in advance to avoid line-ups to the Pomipdou Centre, which is open every day except Tuesdays from 11 am to 8 pm.
Quai Branly Museum
Also known as the Musée du Quai Branly Jacques Chirac, the Musée Quai Branly deserves a place on your Paris itinerary if you are interested in art and objects created by indigenous cultures from around the world. The collection is displayed in four distinct areas representing Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas. Read more about the Musée du Quai Branly in my post Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris.
Plan to visit the Branly on the day you visit the Eiffel Tower. It’s within walking distance and is one of the few other noteworthy sites in the Eiffel Tower area. If you’re in Paris on a Thursday, visit the museum around 6 or 7 pm (it’s open until 10:00 on Thursdays), go up the Eiffel Tower to see the sunset and the lights (depending on the time of year), and end with dinner at a restaurant in the area. There are not a huge number of restaurants in that area, so check before you go and make reservations to avoid long, hungry walks up and down the relatively restaurant-free streets.
The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 7:00 pm (Thursdays until 10:00 pm). Get tickets in advance to book your time slot and avoid lines.
The Orangerie
Monet’s waterlily paintings take center stage at The Orangerie and are well worth a visit (go early or late to avoid crowds). The Orangerie makes a nice stop after spending a few hours in the Tuileries Gardens watching the world go by. Get tickets in advance.
Tuileries near the Orangerie in Spring
Paris has many more amazing museums in addition to the Big Three (Louvre, d’Orsay and Pompidou). If you have time, you’ll be spoiled for choice. My post on Paris Art Museums provides you with some ideas.
And for even more details about my suggested sites and their tie-ins withLove Among the Recipes, along with descriptions of dozens of other things to see in Paris, check out my post on Paris Sightseeing.
After three full days of touring Paris, you’ll be ready for a relaxing morning riding the TGV, France’s high speed train, to the south of France. You catch the TGV to Avignon from Gare Montparnasse. Check the SCNF website to buy tickets.
I love riding the TGV. It’s so smooth and fast! Within about four hours, you’ll arrive at the sleek, modern train station in Avignon and step into the warm southern air.
I suggest renting a car for pick-up at Avignon station. The traffic around the station isn’t too frenetic, and very quickly you’ll be on your way east to the Luberon. For information and tips about driving in Europe, see my post Top Tips for Driving in Europe.
The Luberon
Made famous by Peter Mayle’s book A Year in Provence, the Luberon region of Provence has been thoroughly discovered. But it’s still a magical area and one which I visit as often as possible. I never tire of driving around the little villages, taking walks through the glorious countryside, eating fabulous al fresco meals and poking around the little shops. I always come away with a bag full of lavender and honey soaps.
The villages I like best are Gordes, Rousillon (an absolute must-see) and Bonnieux. I suggest settling into a country hotel in the area and taking day trips to explore the villages and just soak up the Provençal vibe. Other attractive villages are Menerbes, Lacoste, and Saignon where we stayed for two weeks back in the nineties.
Rousillon deserves a special mention. Not only is the village itself delightful with plenty of good restaurants and shopping, it is close to Le Sentier des Ocres, which is reopening on April 9. This area of stunning ocher cliffs and pathways is an easy walk from the village. For more information, check out this post.
Ocher cliffs in the Sentier des Ocres near Rousillon
Here are two highly recommended hotels in the Luberon, one in Roussillon and one in Gordes.
A 15-minute walk from the village of Roussillon, this place sets the bar for what a country-style, family-run, low-key, easy-on-the-budget place should be. Book one of the rooms that includes a terrace. You’ll have your own private outdoor space and be steps from the pool.
This place close to Gordes–one of the most beautiful hill towns in the area–is wonderful. We snagged a room with a terrace which Gregg made use of to do some drawing. The views from the garden over the Luberon are spectacular. Check our his work on his website.
Gregg drawing outside at our hotel near Gordes in the Luberon
Avignon
On your way to Aix-en-Provence from the Luberon, consider stopping for an afternoon to see Avignon. I loved touring the Pope’s Palace (the Palais des Papes) where back in the 14th century, several popes lived when the papacy was moved from Rome to Avignon. The palace is one of the largest and most important medieval Gothic buildings in Europe.
Palace of the Popes in Avignon
The town of Avignon is pleasant and compact, and it’s always fun to see the famous pont d’Avignon that stretches only halfway across the Rhone River.
The Pont d’Avignon made famous in the song
Aix-en-Provence and Arles
You could choose to home base either in Aix-en-Provence or Arles. Both have their charms and both are within easy driving distance of plenty of fabulous Provence landscapes.
Consider spending a day in the Camargue, where you’ll see flamingos, bulls, and the Mediterranean; wander Arles in the footsteps of van Gogh; and enjoy a meal on the picturesque and car free Le Cours Mirabeau, the main drag in Aix-en-Provence. The key to enjoying this area is just to relax and soak up the atmosphere.
The main drag in Aix-en-Provence
For an off-the-beaten track adventure, check out Château La Coste in the hills north of Aix-en-Provence. It’s a vineyard and sculpture park with a great restaurant. I write about our visit here.
The Riviera
Drive east from Aix-en-Provence and within two hours, you’ll see signs to Cannes, Antibes, Nice, Menton and Monte Carlo. You’re on the fabled Riviera! Ts:
Enjoying the high life in Monaco on the French Riviera
There is a lot to do on the French Riviera so I suggest finding a home base and then taking day trips. Here are just a few of the highlights.
Antibes
Visit the Picasso Museum and wander the picturesque back streets. Enjoy great views of the Mediterranean and watch the boats.
A view of the Picasso Museum (the tower) in Antibes
Cannes
Promenade along the famous seaside and mingle with the beautiful people, enjoy a cocktail on the terrace of the famed Carlton Cannes Hotel, then check out the high class shops.
Along the waterfront in swishy Cannes
Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Located on Cap Ferrat just to the east of Nice, the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild is worth a visit for the gardens alone (and the house is no slouch either). The nearby Greek Villa Kerylos is also fun to visit, particularly for the spectacular views of the Mediterranean.
Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild on Cap Ferrat
Nice
Nice is a large and bustling city and although a bit iffy in some areas, is a great place to home base. Avoid the areas near the train station. Spend an afternoon and evening exploring the narrow streets of Old Nice to sample great food and just get all your senses stimulated.
Menton
Menton is a great choice for a town that is less crowded than some of its more famous cousins. I’ve spent several afternoons in Menton and can’t wait to go back. Its old town is charming and its beach long and sandy.
Harbor in Menton
Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Located in the hills above Cannes, the enchanting (achingly so!) village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence is truly delightful, even it is has in recent years become very upscale. We’ve enjoyed some good meals there overlooking spectacular views. Saint-Paul-de-Vence is also very close to the Fondation Maeght, a modern art museum set in gorgeous gardens with very cool sculptures.
The lovely village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Vence
A few kilometers past Saint-Paul-de-Vence and closer to the mountains that buttress the French Riviera is Vence, one of our favorite places to relax away from the hubbub on the coast. The pedestrian-only medieval streets of this walled town are peaceful and shady with plenty of restaurants are available. Vence feels like a place where people actually live.
If you’re a fan of Matisse, a visit to the Matisse Chapel (the Chapelle du Rosaire) a fifteen-minute walk from Vence is a must. Matisse designed every detail of the chapel. The interior is very spare and modern with stunning stained glass windows.
Tour Options on the French Riviera
Here are some options with Tiqets.com for touring the French Riviera. A boat trip would be fun!
Nice or Cannes both make good home bases on the Mediterranean. You’ll find lots of hotels here, some on the waterfront.
Another option is to home base in a village like Saint-Paul-de-Vence or Vence and then drive to the towns on the Mediterrenean. One drawback of this plan is that the traffic can be horrendous the closer to the waterfront you get. On the other hand, the villages above the Riviera are so spectacular that it would be shame not to spend some time there.
Here are some options:
La Petite Maison: This two-story apartment has a spectacular view over Saint-Paul-de-Vence and the Mediterranean beyond. You are also within easy walking distance of the village.
Gregg surveying Saint Paul-de-Vence from the terrace of Le Petite Maison
Hôtel Marc Hély: We enjoyed a room with a view over Saint Paul-de-Vence and a tasty breakfast in the courtyard. This is a great choice in La Colle-sur-Loup, which is about a ten-minute drive from the Fondation Maeght.
Miramar: This hotel is in Vence, which is just up the hill from Saint-Paul-de-Vence and a larger town with more services. FYI, we had the best pizza in an outdoor café in the Old Town of Vence! The Miramar is a reasonably-priced and well-located property that is great for drivers.
Enjoying French cuisine in the thousands of small restaurants all over France is a huge highlight. You can get a bad meal in France (and we’ve endured some doozies), but that’s usually the exception. Check online reviews of the restaurants in the area you’re traveling to and make dinner reservations.
Check out my general tips on dining well on a budget in Europe.
Conclusion
One of the best things about traveling in France is just being in France. People are friendly and helpful, particularly if you attempt to speak French, the food is almost always wonderful, and a great deal of the French countryside is drop-dead gorgeous.
Most of our fondest memories of our travels in France are of great meals we’ve shared and the scenic drives and walks we’ve taken through the countryside. Slow down, make time to smell the lavender, and enjoy!
Here are some more posts about traveling in France:
Do you enjoy reading novels set in the places you are traveling to? I know I do. I love curling up at the end of a long day of sightseeing and reading a novel that helps me revisit the places I’ve seen.
I’ve chosen my top ten novels based on two criteria. First, the novel needs to evoke a sense of the place in which it was set, and second, it needs to relate in some way to the arts. You’re sure to find some new-to-you reads to take along on your next trip, or even to stay at home with.
England
Entertaining Mr Pepysby Deborah Swift
Entertaining Mr Pepys is the third novel in Deborah Swift’s “Women of Pepys’ Diary” series. All three novels are worth taking along if you are spending time in London and want a fascinating glimpse of what life was like in the 1660s. Famed diarist Samuel Pepys is at the center of this and the first two novels (Pleasing Mr Pepys and A Plague on Mr Pepys), each following a different woman who knew Samuel and was mentioned in his diary. In Entertaining Mr Pepys, the actress Elizabeth (Bird) Carpenter takes center stage as she navigates the world of the theater when women were finally allowed on stage as actresses. If you enjoy impeccably researched historical novels with plenty of intrigue, then the “Women of Pepys’ Diary” series is for you.
The Lost Book of the Grail by Charlie Lovett
While traveling in England, plan on touring some of its awesome cathedrals (don’t miss York Minster, Salisbury Cathedral, and Durham Cathedral to name just three of my faves!) and then settle down with The Lost Book of the Grail. The setting is an ancient cathedral in the fictional town of Barchester. Flashback chapters open with succinct descriptions of cathedral areas such as cloisters, the nave, chapels, and more that I found fascinating. Through a series of clever flashbacks, you navigate the history of the cathedral from its founding by a martyred saint through the Norman invasion, Reformation, Civil War, Victorian era, World War II, and modern times. The plot’s twists and turns provide enough mystery to make the denouement both surprising and satisfying.
France
Drawing Lessons by Patricia Sands
Are you taking a trip to Provence? Then pack or download a copy of Drawing Lessons, a delicious novel set in Arles that follows a woman’s quest to redefine herself after the death of her husband. Patricia Sands evokes the sensuous delights of Provence so beautifully that you’ll feel like you are there. And if, indeed, you are there, you’ll have the sights and smells that surround you confirmed in the story.
The Paris Hours by Alex George
This is the novel to read when you’re spending time in Paris. The Paris Hours tells the stories of four “ordinary” people during one day in Paris in 1927. Along the way, they encounter an extraordinary panoply of luminaries including Hemingway, Proust, Picasso, Gertrude Stein, Ravel, Josephine Baker, and even Sylvia Beach, the proprietor of Paris’s most famous English bookstore, Shakespeare & Company. Alex George brings the ambience, and the people, of Paris to life as he takes readers through streets and parks they can still walk through today. Surprises and twists abound in one of the most cleverly plotted and exquisitely written novels I’ve read in a long while.
Germany
And After the Fireby Lauren Belfer
I am a huge fan of the music of Johann Sebastian Bach (check out my visit to the Bach Museum in Leipzig) and so And After the Fire was the novel for me. It tells the fascinating story of a lost Bach manuscript with a disturbing message. The story spans over two hundred years, from Berlin in the 18th century through the Holocaust to New York in contemporary times. Inspired by historical events, the compelling narrative of this deeply researched and evocative novel resonates with emotion and immediacy.
Chasing the Wind by C. C. Humphreys
Heading for Berlin? Take along Chasing the Wind, a rollicking good adventure that mixes a Bruegel masterpiece, a female aviator, espionage, and the 1936 Berlin Olympics. It’s a page-turner, so make sure you’ve finished your sightseeing for the day before reading it, else you may decide to stay in your hotel room and read rather than go out to sample Berlin’s many museums (check out Booming Berlin: Your Artsy Guide for suggestions about what to do during a three-day visit to Berlin).
Italy
Raphael, Painter in Rome by Stephanie Storey
No trip to Rome is complete without experiencing the art of Raphael, Michelangelo and da Vinci. And the perfect novel to accompany you is Raphael, Painter in Romeby Stephanie Storey, and her other novel Oil and Marble. Both chronicle the lives of three of the most renowned artists in western Europe: Raphael in Raphael, Painter in Rome and Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci in Oil and Marble. Even in the 21st century, there are parts of old Rome in which only a small leap of the imagination is needed to be transported back to the Renaissance when intrigue lurked around every corner and the smell of oil paint was heavy in the air. Raphael. Painter in Rome takes you deep into the heart of a Rome that may be long gone but still lingers in the imagination after dark.
Netherlands
Girl with a Pearl Earring by Tracy Chevalier
One of the things I love about touring the Netherlands is how the light often reminds me of an Old Master painting. One of the most famous is Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring. So, the perfect read for fans of his work is the novel of the same name by Tracy Chevalier. Set in 17th-century Delft, Girl with a Pearl Earring is a richly-imagined portrait of the young woman who inspired the painting. I love how Chevalier seamlessly merges history and fiction in this and many of her other novels set in Europe, including The Lady and the Unicorn (14th-century France), Burning Bright(late 18th-century London), Falling Angels (early 20th-century London), A Single Thread(1930s England), and Remarkable Creatures (early 19th-century England).
Spain
The Return by Victoria Hislop
I picked up a copy of The Returnin a second-hand bookstore while wandering the back streets of Antibes seeking shade at the height of the 2019 heat wave (la canicule, as the French called it). It was the perfect novel to read while traveling west into Spain. It takes place both in the present and during the Spanish Civil War, a time in history about which I knew very little. The story of a flamenco guitar player (a tocadores) and a flamenco dancer (a bailaora) who fall in love in 1930s Granada and are separated during the terrible excesses of the Spanish Civil War will stay with you long after you leave Spain.
The Miramonde Trilogy by Amy Maroney
For a book lover, few things are more enchanting than enjoying a novel and then discovering that it’s the first in a trilogy. I had that experience after reading The Girl from Oto, the first offering in Amy Maroney’s trilogy about a female artist in Renaissance Spain, the other two novels being Mira’s Way and A Place in the World. I read all three not long after I traveled through the Pyrenees where much of the story takes place. Amy Maroney brings the region to life wonderfully—its wildlife and independent mountain people, the sweeping landscapes and harsh weather, and the turbulent history during the time when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella were on the throne.
What’s your favorite artsy novel set in Europe? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
