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How to Spend a Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Athens

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Last updated on December 18th, 2024 at 07:52 pm

In one day in Athens, you can easily see and enjoy a good taste of what this wonderful and historic city has to offer the Artsy Traveler.

For a perfect Artsy Traveler day in Athens, I suggest taking a walking tour, strolling around some of the lesser-visited archeological sites and visiting either the National Archeological Museum or the Acropolis Museum.

Later in the afternoon, stop at Syntagma (Constitution) Square to watch the Changing of the Guard, and then end your perfect Artsy Traveler day with an evening performance of folk dancing at the Dora Stratou Theatre, followed by dinner and a spot of souvenir shopping in the lively Plaka district.

What About the Acropolis?

I don’t include the Acropolis as part of a Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Athens, not because it’s not worth visiting (it certainly is!), but because it’s likely already on your agenda. Visit the Acropolis in the late afternoon the day before your perfect day in Athens. It’s the star attraction, but once you’ve seen it, you can relax and explore all the other wonderful sites and experiences that Athens has to offer.

For my take on how to enjoy the Acropolis, check out Should You Make the Climb to the Acropolis in Athens.

Here’s how I suggest you spend your perfect Artsy Traveler day in Athens.

Orientation to Athens

Athens is a very large city, and you may at first be worried, as I was, that it will be too busy and crowded for comfort. You’ll likely be pleasantly surprised. The area of Athens that most interests visitors is compact and easy to navigate. You’ll find many pedestrianized streets, some leafy squares and gardens, and a general aura of calm.

While you may expect tooting horns and pollution, you’re more likely to experience laid-back and cheerful.

Here’s a map showing the locations mentioned in this post.

Map created using Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

Morning on A Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Athens

Start your perfect Artsy Traveler day with a walking tour. If you’re visiting during hot weather, the streets in the morning will be shadier and the air cooler. You can find plenty of walking tours in Athens; I recommend a GuruWalk.

Hidden Gems GuruWalk of Athens

On its website, GuruWalk claims that “the best free walking tour guides in the world are here.” The company provides access to an international community of pay-what-you-please walking tours. They call their guides “gurus” and describe them as “open, attentive, fun people with great knowledge of the city.”

I recommend the Hidden Gems tour of Athens with GuruWalk guide Anastasios, who enthusiastically shared his love of Greek history—and especially ancient Greek history—on a two-hour tour that took us up the slopes of the Acropolis.

Meeting the Hidden Gems Tour

You’ll meet the tour in a small park in front of the Monument of Lycicrates (#1 on the map) near the Diogenis restaurant in the Plaka area (#3), not far from my recommended accommodation at Karma Suites (#2). When I took the tour, I joined about twenty-five people from all over the world: Belgium, Spain, Italy, England, Lithuania, Brazil, Denmark, the US, and Julia and me from Canada.

The tour involved quite a bit of walking up steep stairs and along very narrow lanes. One of the first stops was the tiny neighborhood of Anafiotika, located under the northeastern side of the Acropolis Hill in the middle of historical Plaka.

Anafiotika

Our guide Anastasios informed the group that Anafiotika (#4) was built by workers who came from the Cyclades Islands (Santironi, Mykonos, Naxos, et al) to build Plaka in the early 19th century.

Here’s a view of one of the narrow, picturesque streets with the Acropolis looming above.

View of the charming neighborhood of Anafliotika with the Acropolis in the background

The workers built their homes in the island style—white-washed, thick-walled houses clustered around tiny lanes, some barely wide enough to fit a lumbering donkey. How they managed to get furniture into their houses in anyone’s guess, although Anastasios mentioned that most of the homes have been abandoned because the area was made part of the archeological site of the Acropolis. A few families still live there, but unofficially.

Progressing Around the Acropolis

Anastasios provided an excellent “Hidden Gems” tour of the area around the Acropolis. He stopped frequently at places with walls to perch on so participants could listen in comfort as he talked about history and philosophy, and shared tips about how to get the best out of our Athens visit.

You’ll find his historical stories–told with enthusiasm and pride–fascinating. He really knows his history and is obviously happy to share what he knows. You’ll learn just how much we owe to the ancient Greeks—theater, philosophy, architecture, democracy, mathematics, medicine—the list goes on and on.

GuruWalk guide Anastasios on the Hidden Gems walking tour
GuruWalk guide Anastasios on the Hidden Gems walking tour

At the end of the tour, Anastasios directed participants to his GuruWalk page where he’d listed his recommendations for Athens, including the best places to view the sunset as well as good restaurants in the area.

If you’re visiting Athens, sign up for the Hidden Gems tour. You’ll learn a lot, see some places you’d never find on your own, and get a good work-out. Despite a lot of steep climbing, fortunately the pace is pleasingly sedate with frequent stops to sit and listen.

Exploring Athens

Agora & Archeological Sites on the Combo Ticket

Spend some of your perfect Artsy Traveler day in Athens checking out the Agora (#5) and other archeological sites. I suggest you purchase the combo ticket when you visit the Acropolis so that you can tour up to six more archeological sites.

The Agora is a large area littered with ruined bits of ancient Greece. It’s peaceful, uncrowded, and verdant, with plenty of scope for the imagination. It’s not much of a stretch to visualize ancient Greeks going about their business—buying, selling, eating, drinking, arguing, and loving, just like modern Greeks are still doing in the streets adjacent to the Agora.

A highlight is the Temple of Hephaestus (#6), the god of blacksmiths. This very impressive temple takes pride of place on a slight rise and is highly photogenic—far more so than its big brother up on top of the Acropolis. The temple is scaffolding-free and in surprisingly good nick.

Temple of Hephaestus in the Agora in Athens
Temple of Hephaestus in the Agora in Athens

Lunch in Monastiraki

The chef who ran the cooking class that Julia and I took in Nafplio (see Explore Greek Cuisine in a Savor Nafplio Cooking Class) recommended we visit a famous deli in the Monastiraki district. I definitely recommend you check this place out for lunch. Called Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani (#7), it’s crowded, lively, and full of both tourists and locals.

And the food! We ordered and quickly devoured a meat and cheese board.

Meat and cheese board at a deli in Monastiraki

Although we arrived without a reservation, we were quickly seated in the back courtyard. Service was fast and the food delicious.

Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani in Monastiraki

Shops in Monastiraki

This lively and very Greek-feeling area is full of interesting food shops. Take some time to wander the narrow streets and check out the many displays of meats, herbs, and other foods hanging from open doorways.

Herbs in Monastiraki in Athens
Sausages in Monastiraki in Athens

National Archeological Museum

Allocate at least two to three hours to tour the marvelous National Archeological Museum(#8) . You can get there via Uber (which is actually just a local taxi) or walk for about twenty minutes from Monastiraki.

While not as state-of-the-art and modern as the Acropolis Museum (#11), the National Archeological Museum is still an Athens must-see. It’s the largest archaeological museum in Greece and one of the world’s most important museums devoted to ancient Greek art.

Centuries of ancient Greek history, from the earliest inhabitants to the Romans, are displayed in several large rooms. Information about each exhibit is provided in both English and Greek so it’s easy to tour the museum and figure out what you’re looking at.

Here are some of the highlights.

Mask of Agammenon at the National Archeological Museum in Athens
Octopus vase at the National Archeological Museum in Athens
Statue of a Khorus at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

For a detailed overview about what to see at the National Archeological Museum, read my post: What To See at The National Archeological Museum in Athens.

Acropolis Museum

You’ll want to visit both the National Archeological Museum and the Acropolis Museum, but not on the same day. I love museums, but even I try to pace myself!

Visit the Acropolis Museum after you visit the Acropolis itself. If you’re in Athens on a Friday, start your visit to the Acropolis around 5 pm, and then descend and visit the museum, which is open until 10 pm.

Acropolis Museum in Athens
The new Acropolis Museum in Athens

For more about the Acropolis Museum, check out my post Should You Make the Climb to the Acropolis of Athens?

Syntagma and the Changing of the Guard

After visiting the marvelous National Archeological Museum in Athens, catch another Uber for about five euros to Syntagma (#9), otherwise known as Constitution Square. This area is the heart of modern Athens and the location of the Hellenic Parliament. Your mission is to see the famed Changing of the Guard.

Every hour, the guards who stand in perfect stillness in front of the Parliament participate in a slow, graceful, and achingly beautiful Changing of the Guard ceremony. On Sundays at 11:00 am, a more elaborate ceremony takes place.

The sun was blazing across the façade of the parliament building when we arrived to find two young soldiers dressed in traditional uniform. Their composure and stamina was remarkable. I was relieved to see that they stood under small awnings which presumably gave them some protection from the sun.

Guard standing in front of the Hellenic Parliament in Athens

Who Are The Guards?

The guards are from the elite Evzones unit of the Hellenic Army, and their duty is to guard the Monument of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Hellenic Parliament and the Presidential Mansion. The monument is dedicated to Greek soldiers who were killed in war. The Evzones are symbols of bravery and courage for the Greek people.

Uniform of the Guards

The traditional uniform worn by the guards fascinated me. The day we visited, they wore a light tan jacket, but I’ve seen pictures of them wearing navy blue jackets.

The uniform consists of the farion, the Evzone’s fez, that is made from red baize and features a black silk tuft and the Greek coat of arms; a white shirt with loose sleeves; a handmade waistcoat adorned with several delicate shapes; the fustanella, which is the Greek kilt consisting of 400 folds, each representing one year of the 400-year Ottoman occupation; two socks on each leg; a leather belt that holds the socks; the tsarouchia, which are the traditional red leather shoes (each weighing three kilos!) with a black tuft or what we’d call a pom pom in front; and various other accessories.

Each guard also carries a shotgun.

Gathering of the Crowds

The crowd clustered in a semi-circle about four meters from the two guards. Every so often, an intrepid tourist crossed an invisible line and tried to get close to one of the guards for a photo op. Another guard stationed to the side and wearing army fatigues rather than the traditional uniform yelled at the hapless tourist to get back. He did this several times during the fifty minutes we watched the guards.

I’ve seen pictures of people standing next to the guards, but evidently that practice has been discontinued, which is just as well. Can you imagine how difficult it must be for the guards to stand so still, their faces expressionless, every muscle completely immobile? They don’t need the added aggravation of coping with wayward tourists looking for selfies.

Half-Time Repositioning of the Guard

We arrived just after the Changing of the Guard at the top of the hour and decided to wait. Thirty minutes later, the two guards changed places in a slow march with high kicks that bore witness to incredible core strength and discipline.

After they changed places, the fatigue-wearing guard wiped the sweat from each guard’s brow. It was a touching and powerful testament to both the physical toll the movements must take on the men, but also the incredible respect with which the guards are treated.

Guards changing position in front of the Hellenic Parliament in Athens

Changing of the Guard

Just before the top of the hour, the crowd parted and a contingent of fresh guards marched in. The light had faded and we witnessed the solemn ceremony in awe. At times, I felt moved to tears as I watched the men execute their incredibly slow movements in perfect synchronicity.

Dance Performance

If you’re visiting Athens during the summer, check out the folk dancing show at the Dora Stratou Theatre (#10). This 860-seat garden theater is located on Philopappou Hill, opposite the Acropolis.

Getting there is half the fun! From the Plaka district, you enter the dimly lit (and eerily empty when we visited) pathways that wind through the park surrounding the hill to the theatre. Just when you might start feeling a bit vulnerable with no theatre in site, you’ll arrive at the theatre. On a September evening a few days short of the end of the season, the large outdoor theatre was surprisingly empty.

What a shame! The show is well worth seeing. But be warned. If you visit in spring or in mid-September, like we did, take along a sweater. Since the daytime temperature had hovered around 28 degrees, I’d mistakenly believed that an outdoor concert in the evening would be balmy. Wrong! My light wrap was no match for the chill that began descending halfway through the performance.

What’s in the Show at the Dora Stratou Theatre?

A company of 75 dancers, musicians and folk singers clad in costumes from the theatre’s extensive collection performed for over an hour. The dances come from all over Greece, and are characterized by slow, steady movement interspersed with some fancy moves, mostly by the men.

Dinner in the Plaka

After the performance, stroll back to the Plaka district to enjoy a late dinner. Along the way, you’ll admire floodlit views of the Acropolis. This inspiring vista does not get old. Every time I glance up, I want to pinch myself.

I’m in Athens! This is so cool.

Acropolis at night in Athens

You’ll find plenty of places to eat in the Plaka district which admittedly is a little on the touristy side. But the atmosphere is lively, the food hearty, and the service friendly.

Relaxing at an outside table, dipping pita into fresh tzatziki and chatting about a full Artsy Traveler day in Athens is my kind of travel!

Dinner in the Plaka in Athens

Shopping!

And after dinner? Well, the shops in the Plaka district stay open late, so why not end your day by shopping for souvenirs?

While many of the shops sell pretty schlocky stuff, such Kiss Me, I’m Greek T-shirts, persevere and you’ll find some gems. I found a lovely shop selling textiles and stocked up on placemats, a pillow cover, and tea towels, and Julia snagged a set of ceramic olive oil dispensers.

A shop in the Plaka area in Athens

Where to Stay in Athens

On our recent trip to Athens, we stayed in two places: a holiday apartment for two nights and a hotel for one night. I highly recommend both, which are in neighborhoods convenient for sightseeing in Athens.

Karma Apartments

Steps from the lively Plaka district but on a quiet side street, Karma Apartments is a real find in Athens. The one-bedroom apartment we were assigned is on the top floor of a building containing other holiday lets, and even includes a large terrace with a peekaboo view of the Acropolis.

Hotel Lozenge

On our last night in Greece, we stayed at the Hotel Lozenge in the upscale Kolonaki neighborhood. This is a great choice for a business-style hotel with comfortable rooms, an attached restaurant, and very helpful staff.

Tours of Athens

Here are some tours of Athens from GetYourGuide.

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Conclusion

You can definitely “do” Athens in one full day, although two days is better. Don’t just rush up to the Acropolis and call it a day. Explore some of the neighborhoods—Plaka, Syntagma, the Acropolis area, Monastiraki, Thissio (where the Agora is located), and elegant Kolonaki.

Slow down and enjoy this incredibly historical city. After all, Socrates walked here, and Plato too. Give them their due by walking slowly and breathing the same air they did (more or less). Maybe you’ll be struck by some deep philosophical thoughts that change the course of western civilization.

Here are more posts about travels in Greece:

Have you visited Athens? Share your comments and recommendations in the Comments below.

How to Spend a Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Madrid

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Last updated on November 26th, 2024 at 05:06 am

A Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Madrid must include a visit to at least one of the three major art museums, an hour or two strolling through a park, a cooking class, lots of wandering through the evocative and virtually traffic-free centro, a concert, and a yummy selection of tapas and raciones for a late dinner (the only kind in Madrid). 

Here’s my take on how to spend a Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Madrid.

Map of Madrid: Perfect Artsy Traveler Day

The map below shows the locations of the artsy sightseeing favorites mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

Preparation

A few days or even weeks before embarking upon my Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Madrid, I go online to secure tickets to my chosen art museum(s). I’ve decided to visit the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza on my Perfect Day, and so I buy tickets for a mid-morning time slot. I also get tickets to a flamenco performance; you’ll find plenty of venues to choose from in Madrid.

Thus prepared, I’m ready to go.

Early Morning on My Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Madrid

When I travel, I love to get up early and spend an hour or two wandering around my neighborhood before stopping at a café for coffee. On my recent trip to Madrid, I stayed across the street from the Jardines Sabatini, the lush gardens surrounding the opulent Royal Palace, so that’s where I’ll start.

Early Morning Walk through the Jardines Sabatini

The Jardines Sabatini (#1) are magical. In the early morning, I enter through an iron gate that is locked at night and immediately have the twisty paths and gorgeous foliage all to myself.

The Jardines Sabatini in Madrid
The peaceful, beautifully landscaped Jardines Sabatini in Madrid

After a brisk walk, I cross back over the busy road separating the gardens from my highly recommended aparthotel (the ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini) and stop in at a stylish café for a breakfast of a freshly made smoothie, a pastry, and of course, coffee.

Taxi to the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza

I discover that taxis in Madrid are very affordable, and Ubers even cheaper. The closest metro station to where I’m staying is a good fifteen-minute walk, and so I ask the very helpful staff at the ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini to call me a taxi. Five minutes later, I’m being whisked into the crazy Madrid traffic for the 10-euro trip. It’s money well spent.

Mid-Morning on My Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Madrid

Visit to the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza in Madrid

Although not as well known as the Museo Prado (another excellent pick for an artsy day in Madrid), the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza (#2) has a wonderful collection and is not quite so overwhelming as the Museo Prado.

I start on the main floor with a visit to the stunning collection of 19th-century art—mostly Impressionists. While the Thyssen doesn’t contain many super-famous pieces like the Musée d’Orsay does, it features a lot of variety and some truly stunning paintings.

Here are two of my favorites.

Reclining Nude Shepherdess, 1891, Berthe Morisot at the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza
Reclining Nude Shepherdess, 1891, Berthe Morisot
The Cliffs at Le Pouldu, 1884, Émile Bernard at the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza
The Cliffs at Le Pouldu, 1884, Émile Bernard

The Thyssen also houses a comprehensive collection of works from the 15th century right up to the mid-20th century. Here’s an interesting piece by the American painter Edward Hopper.

Hotel Room, Edward Hopper, 1931 at the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza
Hotel Room, Edward Hopper, 1931

TIP: Before traveling to Madrid, check what’s on and be sure to get your tickets for the major museums such as the Prado, the Thyssen-Bornemisza, and the Museo Reina Sofía (home of Picasso’s Guernica) well ahead of your visit.

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Midday Break on My Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Madrid

After leaving the Thyssen, I catch another taxi into the heart of Madrid—the Plaza Mayor (#3)— for a snack and some people-watching. I usually advise fellow travelers to avoid high-rent areas like the Plaza Mayor when looking for places to eat, but today I break my own rule and settle in at one of the many outdoor cafés. Why? Because the view of the surrounding buildings is just too spectacular to miss, and the ambiance can’t be beat. The Plaza Mayor truly is a must-see public space. It was begun in the 17th century by King Philip III. His bronze equestrian statue stands in the middle of the enormous square.

The Plaza Major in Madrid
The enormous Plaza Major in the center of Madrid is perfect for people watching

I order a light lunch because in a few hours I’ll be attending a cooking class.

I pledge to return to the Plaza Major in the evening on another day to enjoy a drink in the shadow of the floodlit buildings.

Afternoon on My Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Madrid

After my plaza break, I browse the souvenir shops in the area, and then head for a tapas cooking class.

A Tapas Cooking Class

The 2.5-hour cooking class promises to teach me how to make ten tapas. I tie on my apron and join an international group of fellow travelers to listen to the chef. She’s a dynamic presenter who is obviously passionate about food and cooking.

She assigns a dish to each person. My job is to make a cold tomato soup. I cut up garlic and a lot of fresh tomatoes, then throw them in the blender and turn it on. I then add several pieces of bread which help the soup thicken and finally, I drizzle in about a quarter of a bottle of olive oil.

After much blending, the result is smooth, fresh, and very red. And the taste! Wowza!

Carol Cram at a tapas cooking class in Madrid
Making fresh tomato soup at a tapas cooking class in Madrid
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I also help to make a Spanish omelet, which is made with potatoes and a little heavy for my taste. Other tasty treats included flat-breads spread with various sauces, skewers of quince (a kind of solidified jam) and melon, and Parmesan cheese lollipops. The food is hearty and there’s plenty of it. The group barely makes a dent. I hope they had someone to give the leftovers to.

Selection of tapas made at the cooking class in Madrid
Selection of tapas made at the cooking class in Madrid

Evening

In Madrid, dinner isn’t served until about 9 pm (and even that’s considered a tad early) so after my cooking class I return to my hotel for a short rest before joining the throngs of strolling Madrileños on my way to a concert.

The people of Madrid love to stroll throughout the evening. Whole families, with babies in strollers and toddlers rushing about, are on the move. People are smiling and laughing. As I join them, I feel like I’m a part of the community despite being a visitor.

Flamenco Concert

As any Spaniard will tell you, Madrid is not the historic home of flamenco. That honor goes to Seville. However, several venues offer flamenco performances that are well worth the money. The one I choose includes a plate of olives and other snacks and a glass of wine or a soft drink.

Flamenco dancers in Spain
A flamenco performance is a highlight of any trip to Spain

As is the case with every flamenco performance I’ve seen, the dancers are incredible and the music exhilarating. I truly never tire of going to flamenco shows when I’m traveling in Spain!

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Late Dinner

And finally, it’s time for a late Madrid dinner. I confess that I find the Spanish cuisine a little on the heavy side. Potatoes, ham, and beef dominate and you won’t find a great many fresh vegetables. Salads do not appear to be a thing in Spain, at least in my experience.

The food is, however, tasty and there’s a lot of it.

TIP: Order fewer dishes than you think you’ll want. Portions in Spain are generally very large. Two dishes are usually enough for two people.

Here’s an article that describes the various options on a Spanish menu.

Stroll Home

I end my Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Madrid with a stroll through the medieval streets of the centro to the wide plaza in front of the floodlit Royal Palace. It’s a gorgeous building that is reminiscent of Buckingham Palace in London, probably because it dates from a similar era.

The royal palace in Madrid at night
The royal palace in Madrid is floodlit at night

Read More About Madrid

Here’s a post about the two weeks I spent in Madrid: Exploring Fascinating Madrid–Europe’s Best-Kept Secret for the Artsy Traveler

Tours of Madrid

If you enjoy taking tours while traveling (and I recommend them as a great way to see more in less time), then check out tours from GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com and the free walking tours offered through GuruWalk.

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Conclusion

What are your recommendations for a Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Madrid? Share your experiences and tips in the comment box below.

Eiffel Tower in Paris

How to Spend A Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Paris

Perfect Day Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on How to Spend A Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Paris

Last updated on December 10th, 2024 at 12:39 am

A Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Paris must include three essentials: museums, parks, and great food.

Here’s my take on how to spend A Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Paris. See what you think, and if it gives you ideas for planning your perfect Artsy Traveler day.

Preparation

A few days or even weeks before embarking upon my Perfect Paris Day, I go online to secure tickets to my chosen art museum(s). I’ve decided to include a visit to the Musée d’Orsay on my perfect day, and so I buy tickets for the earliest time slot I can get, preferably at opening time. I’ve also chosen to visit the Musée de Cluny on my perfect day. While the Musée de Cluny is not usually as crowded as the Musée d’Orsay, I hedge my bets by also snagging tickets for an afternoon visit.

Thus equipped, I’m ready to go.

Early Morning on My Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Paris

When I travel, I love to get up early and spend an hour or two wandering around my neighborhood before stopping in a café for a light breakfast. In Paris, I generally stay somewhere close to the Seine on the Left Bank and so that’s where I’ll start.

Early Morning Walk along the Seine

In the early morning, Paris is quiet. A few locals walk briskly to jobs, a street cleaner trundles past, the book stalls overlooking the Seine are shuttered, the cafes are just opening, and the heavenly scent of coffee and fresh croissants competes with the evocative smells of the river and old stone.

I like to walk east toward the Île de la Cité to see the morning sun shining on the façade of Notre-Dame Cathedral. Later in the day, the area in front of the cathedral will be mobbed with tourists, but for an hour or so I have the view to myself.

View of the River Seine and Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris
Walkway along the Seine heading towards Notre Dame Cathedral

I cross back over to the Left Bank and find a café where I order my favorite French breakfast—a café au lait with a length of baguette accompanied by pots of French butter and jam. At home, I never eat jam, but in France? Mais oui.

While enjoying my breakfast, I divide my time between people-watching and writing. In the early morning, few tourists are about so most of the people nearby are locals scrolling on their phones. The atmosphere is peaceful and unhurried—a marked contrast from the busy-ness to come.

Bus to the Musée d’Orsay

Refreshed and ready for some serious artsy sightseeing, I hop on a bus that takes me along the Quai Anatole France to the Musée d’Orsay. In recent years, I’ve taken to riding the bus far more often than the metro.

While the metro is great for getting from A to B quickly, the bus is a more leisurely and visitor-friendly option. Instead of taking an expensive Hop On, Hop Off Bus tour, I take local busses and see the same monuments of Paris for a fraction of the price and get in some seriously interesting people-watching.

Mid-Morning on My Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Paris

Visit to the Musée d’Orsay

Few artsy traveler experiences are more rewarding than walking into the Musée d’Orsay ahead of the crowds. Of all the grand museums in Paris, the Musée d’Orsay is my favorite, and I drop in every time I visit. In addition to its stunning permanent collection, the Musée d’Orsay hosts excellent special exhibitions.

TIP: Before traveling to Paris, check what’s on and be sure to get your tickets well ahead of your visit.

Go to the Top Floor

I start my visit by taking the escalators straight up to the fifth floor so I can tour them while they are still relatively empty. Later in the day, I’ll be hard-pressed to see any of my favorites through the crowds.

A Break in the Museum Café

After touring the top floor, I take a break and enjoy a coffee and pastry in the elegant café behind the giant clock. Usually, it’s not too crowded in the morning before the lunchtime rush. I sip my coffee, contemplate the glorious art I’ve seen, and plan which galleries I’ll visit next.

View of the Café at the Musee d’Orsay
The elegant café on the fifth floor of the Musée d’Orsay

The Lower Floors

Once refreshed, I begin my descent through the next few floors, taking time to check out the art nouveau exhibits on the second floor. This floor is almost always deserted, and yet the art is stunning.

Display of art nouveau furniture at the Musee d’Orsay in Paris
Display of art nouveau furniture at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris

On the main floor, I make sure to see Manet’s Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe and Courbet’s evocative L’Origine du Monde.

The Gift Shop

I always leave some time to browse the gift shop at the Musée d’Orsay where there are shelves full of beautiful art books along with plenty of art-encrusted swag. An umbrella emblazoned with van Gogh’s Sunflowers? A Manet fridge magnet? A Gauguin mug? They’re all here, and a great deal more.

For a more detailed overview on how to spend an excellent few hours in the Musée d’Orsay, check out my post: Musée d’Orsay in Paris: An Inspiring Must-See for the Artsy Traveler

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Late Morning on My Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Paris

After a few hours enjoying the delights of the Musée d’Orsay, I re-emerge into the light and head east again. I could take a bus back to the Saint-Michel area, but I decide to walk.

Browsing Left Bank Shops

The walk is fairly long, but I love it because it takes me past so many interesting shops. The area of the Left Bank between the Musée d’Orsay and the Boulevard Saint-Michel teems with boutiques offering antiques, objets d’art, and paintings. The variety of artsy stuff on display is truly astonishing. I really could spend an entire day peering into the shop windows.

Shop window showing elegant vases on the Left Bank in Paris
Elegant shop window on the Left Bank

I’m not sure who buys a life-size antique sculpture of a Roman gladiator or an ornate armoire that probably graced a room in Louis XIV’s Versailles, but obviously someone does. Many of these shops have probably been in business for centuries.

Lunch on My Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Paris

As I stroll, I notice the crowds swelling. By the time I get to the area around the Boulevard Saint-Michel, the solitary hours of my early morning feel like a dream.

Finding a good place to have lunch can be a challenge in this busy area. There are plenty of choices, but not all are great. I use my smartphone to help me find an eatery that has at least a 4.5-star rating. I veer off the main thoroughfares and search along small side streets.

After settling on a café for lunch, I order one of the grande salades. These never disappoint. My favorite is the Salade Norge. Usually, it consists of a massive helping of smoked salmon and shrimps with salad greens, hard-boiled eggs, capers, olives, and plenty of lemon slices. If I’m in the mood, I may even order a glass of white wine to accompany my salad.

Seafood salad in Paris
Generous helpings of seafood in a Grande Salade in Paris

Afternoon on My Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Paris

After lunch, I wander up the Boulevard Saint-Michel to the Musée national du Moyen Âge, also known as the Musée de Cluny.

Visit the Musée de Cluny

If I had to choose my favorite small museum in Paris, the Musée de Cluny would win hands down. I love it because two of my novels—The Towers of Tuscany (Lake Union Publishing 2014) and The Merchant of Siena (coming in 2025) are set in the fourteenth century.

The Musée de Cluny is the 14th and 15th centuries on steroids. 

The exhibits feature exquisite items in a wonderful variety of mediums—from woodworking to enameling to metalworking to sculpture to miniatures to, well, you name a medium and you’ll find a medieval example of it at the Musée de Cluny.

Medieval wood sculpture at the Cluny Museum in Paris
Exquisite wood sculpture at the Musée national du Moyen Âge

A highlight of my visit is the room containing the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries. These stunning tapestries warrant a good chunk of my touring time. I take a seat in the middle of the room and enjoy the details in each of the six tapestries.

For more about the Musée de Cluny, check out my post Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris

Relax in the Luxembourg Gardens

Still full of energy after my Cluny visit, I stroll up Boulevard Saint-Michel to the Luxembourg Gardens.

The Luxembourg Gardens is the quintessential Parisian garden—full of gorgeous flower beds, cool activities and Parisians at play. I Iinger by the round pool in the middle and watch children sail remote control boats, wander the beautiful pathways and enjoy the wealth of sculptures, stop for a coffee or a drink at one of the small cafes, and just chill out. I snag a chair near the pool and bask in the sunshine.

Large pool with remote controlled sailboat in the Luxembourg Gardens in Paris
Large pool at the Luxembourg Gardens in Paris

TIP: If you’re traveling with children, don’t miss the Luxembourg Gardens playground. Even after thirty years, our daughter still speaks fondly of playing on the varied apparatus at the Luxembourg Gardens when she was eight. During that trip back in 1995, we spent a LOT of time at that playground!

Evening

I’m ready for a rest! I head back to my hotel room and enjoy some quiet time and to make dinner reservations.

Early Concert

My perfect day in Paris definitely includes taking in a classical music concert. And I have plenty to choose from. A reliable option is to get tickets for a concert at the stunning Philharmonie de Paris in the Cité de la musique located in the Parc de la Villette in northeast Paris. I’ve gone a few times, and each time I’ve been blown away both by the venue and the performance.

Interior of the Philharmonie de Paris concert hall
Interior of the stunning Philharmonie de Paris concert hall

Or perhaps I’ll go to a concert at Sainte-Chapelle on the Île de la Cité or at Saint-Julien-le- Pauvre on the Left Bank. I highly recommend both options.

I choose one of the earlier times, so I can go to the concert first and have dinner after.

Late Dinner

And finally, the pièce de résistance of my Perfect Artsy Traveler Paris Day—dinner! After all, one of the many reasons to visit Paris is to sample great food. With so many options, I always make sure to check reviews.

I’ve had some of the best meals of my life in Paris—as well as some of the worst. Bad food in Paris can be really, really bad. I avoid the super-touristy joints on the Champs- Élysées and search for places tucked away on side streets, favoring places with menus printed only in French. Chances are very good that my server will speak English and cheerfully translate.

The myth of the snooty French server is, at least in my experience, a myth. Almost without exception, every French server I’ve encountered in the forty-odd years in which I’ve been traveling to Paris has been helpful, friendly, and fun, often cracking jokes and anxious to ensure I enjoy my meal. I find that the key to getting good service in Paris is to start off in French, even if it’s only Bonjour or Bonsoir. Showing my willingness to at least try speaking French means I’m almost always rewarded with excellent service.

You will pay more for an excellent meal in Paris than you will in other parts of the country, but you don’t need to spend a fortune. You can spend a fortune if you want to, but in my experience, you can get a top-rate meal for two that includes three courses and wine for about a hundred euros. So no, not cheap, but excellent value.

Stroll Home

I end my Perfect Artsy Traveler day in Paris with a stroll past its many floodlit monuments. Paris is called the City of Light for good reason. I linger in the middle of a bridge spanning the Seine and admire the Eiffel Tower in one direction and Notre-Dame Cathedral in the other. It feels wonderful to slow down and relax.

Medieval building floodlit in Paris
Floodlit buildings make Paris magical at night.
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Read More About Paris

Here are more posts about Paris, including one about the Parisian sites featured in my novel Love Among the Recipes, a contemporary romance inspired by my enduring love for Paris.

Tours of Paris

If you enjoy taking tours while traveling (and I recommend them as a great way to see more in less time), then check out tours from Get Your Guide and the free walking tours offered through Guru Walks.

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Conclusion

What are your recommendations for a Perfect Artsy Traveler Paris Day? Share your experiences and tips in the comment box below.