If you’re planning a trip to the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico, I highly recommend you include a tour of at least one of the Maya ancient sites. The two largest and most easily accessible are Coba and Chichén Itzá.
But before you go, check out Beyond the Ruins, a stunning 2024 documentary that will change how you think about the Maya people and provide you with valuable insights into their way of life.
This post features a review of Beyond the Ruins, an award-winning feature documentary by Brady Skye that chronicles his journey to deepen understanding of the Maya and their culture.
Introduction
Many people—documentary-maker Brady Skye included, until he learned otherwise—mistakenly think the Maya culture belongs firmly in the past.
On a trip to the impressive ruins at Coba in the Yucatán in 2018, Brady’s fascination with the ancient Maya ruins led him to wonder about the people who built them. His interaction with a local Maya guide inspired him to return to the area to film his documentary in 2021.
Through his interactions with two Maya families, Brady discovered that the Maya culture was still alive and vibrant, and with a great deal to teach the modern world.
Over six million people belong to the Maya ethnic group. Many of these people still live and thrive on the Yucatán Peninsula.
Meeting Two Maya Families
The documentary chronicles Brady’s interactions with two Maya families. They welcome him into their homes and share with him their way of life and their beliefs.
Brady soon discovers that the modern Maya’s traditions and culture are firmly woven into the fabric of their daily lives, influencing everything from their farming practices to their spiritual beliefs.
By living in harmony with the natural world, the families Brady meets show him what it means to live a meaningful life.
One of the people he interviews is an expert on the local spider monkeys and leads Brady through the forest to view the monkeys in their natural habitat.
A woman called Rosa shows Brady the gorgeous embroidery she does, some of which she sells to visitors.
The documentary celebrates the many ways in which the two families interact with their environment—from their close relationship with nature and animals to the ways in which they live and work.
The Value of Community
Community and family are paramount in the lives of the people Brady meets.
In one scene, Brady puts up a hammock and joins members of the family in an afternoon siesta—all swinging together in one room.
It’s a colorful and peaceful scene that underscores the value the Maya place on family and community.
Philosophy of Living
Jesus Canul, the Maya guide Brady meets at the beginning of his journey, declares that he is richer than some people who have a lot of money.
He has all he needs: family, community, and the natural world.
One simple phrase sums up the philosophy of the Maya:
I am you; you are me.
The Maya believe in the interconnectedness of all humans and animals. By sharing our lives and helping one another, we can all live a fulfilling life.
This is a valuable lesson that so many people in our frequently disconnected world would benefit from embracing.
As Brady says in the documentary, the Maya offer a powerful alternative vision to what it means to live a life of meaning and connection. They understand that true happiness comes from the nurturing of human bonds and not in dependence on artificial machines.
The documentary demonstrates the value of fostering connections with Indigenous wisdom, thereby recognizing the universal truth that we are all interconnected.
Recognition for Beyond the Ruins
Beyond the Ruins is the recipient of numerous awards, including:
Best Documentary Feature, 19th Orlando International Film Festival
Silver Anthem Award Recipient, International Academy of Arts & Sciences
Best Documentary Feature, TRAVEL FILM International Film Festival
Best Cultural Documentary, 14th Travel Beyond Film Festival
Best Documentary Feature, 2024 Follywood Film Festival
“One Planet, One World” Special Award Recipient from the ART&TUR International Film Festival
Official Selection at 36th Girona Film Festival, 29th Red Nation International Film Festival, and the 25th Santa Fe Film Festival.
Conclusion
Beyond the Ruins is both visually stunning and philosophically profound. Viewers will be inspired by Brady’s depictions of the two families and their interdependence upon the natural world.
This documentary fascinated me. I visited the Yucatán Peninsula several years ago and remember being fascinated by the Maya culture and people after touring Coba accompanied by a local guide who provided fascinating commentary about the ruins and the Maya people. I wish I’d had more time to explore the ruins and delve deeper.
Fortunately, Brady Skye does just that in his work.
I highly recommend checking out Beyond the Ruins, whether before or after you travel to the Yucatán, , or even if you never plan to visit the Yucatán!
If you’re looking for a family-friendly outing in Vancouver, carve out a few hours to visit the Vancouver Museum (AKA the Museum of Vancouver).
After getting a good hit of cultural history, walk the seawall or hop on the False Creek ferry to Granville Island for lunch and shopping.
At the Museum of Vancouver (MOV), you’ll discover the cultural history of the city. A series of exhibits take you on a journey past hundreds of artifacts used by individuals and communities that have called the area home.
Take a food tour of Granville Island Public Market
Introduction
I’ve lived in Vancouver all my life. I remember when the Museum of Vancouver was built in 1968. I also remember when, in 1979, Granville Island was transformed from an industrial wasteland to a major Vancouver tourist attraction.
On a recent bright and sunny January day, I joined the throngs of Vancouverites who emerge when the sun shines and headed for Kitsilano. This laid-back residential area is one of Vancouver’s most beautiful with its huge saltwater pool and mountain views from Kitsilano Beach.
Here, I toured the Museum of Vancouver and then rode the False Creek ferry to Granville Island for lunch and shopping.
The spectacular views of this area of Vancouver never get old.
Whether you’re a local or a visitor, make time to visit the Vancouver Museum. Then, get yourself over to bustling Granville Island, an especially enjoyable outing on a sunny day.
Locations
The Museum of Vancouver (#1) is located at 1100 Chestnut Street in Vanier Park (#2) in Vancouver’s Kitsilano neighborhood. It is within the unceded territory of the Musqueam, Squamish, and Tsleil-Waututh Nations.
Vanier Park occupies most of Kitsilano Point and overlooks stunning views of the mountains, the ocean and False Creek. Downtown Vancouver is about a fifteen-minute bus or car ride away.
Granville Island is located about a 20-minute walk from Vanier Park under the Granville Street Bridge at the edge of False Creek. For decades, the area was a polluted blight on the Vancouver skyline.
After its extensive makeover starting in 1979, Granville Island now teems with shops and activities, including a great area for children and the world-famous Granville Island Public Market (#3).
Stroll along the seawall or take the False Creek ferry to Granville Island for lunch.
Return to the area to enjoy a matinée at Bard on the Beach (#4), a five-minute walk from the MOV.
History of the Museum of Vancouver
Originally located in downtown Vancouver, the museum was founded in 1894 by a group of art and history enthusiasts who amassed a collection of artifacts and donations from local citizens.
In 1968, the building where the museum is now housed was erected in Vanier Park. The MOV shares its iconic building with the Vancouver Planetarium and the H.R. Macmillan Space Centre. The distinctive dome is meant to resemble the woven basket hats made by Northwest Coast First Nations peoples.
Initially called the Centennial Museum and then the Vancouver Museum, the new building was renamed the Museum of Vancouver in 2009 and the museum positioned as the place to go to learn about Vancouver’s cultural history.
I first visited the MOA not long after it opened in 1968 and have continued to revisit every decade or so, sometimes to take in a special exhibition, or to enjoy the fascinating permanent collection. I always find something new to look at and learn.
Explore the Galleries
The MOV is Vancouver’s largest civic museum and features several history galleries, starting with galleries dedicated to the First Nations people who lived on this bountiful land for centuries before contact with people from other parts of the world, primarily Europe and Asia.
The City Before the City: c̓əsnaʔəm
The first gallery contains The City Before the City exhibition that features c̓əsnaʔəm, the ancestral village of the Musqueam First Nation. On display are bone, stone, and shell objects from c̓əsnaʔəm that have survived for thousands of years.
The exhibition is both respectful and informative, with the aim of educating visitors about the people who inhabited the land before it was transformed by the streets and buildings we see today.
Listening stations encourage visitors to slow down, don a pair of headphones, and then watch and listen to videos narrated by First Nations people about their history and the exhibits.
That Which Sustains Us
The focus of the That Which Sustain Us gallery is on the land itself and how interactions with it are shaped by culture. You’ll learn about traditional ecological knowledge in addition to the consequences of deforestation and the urbanization of Vancouver.
I particularly enjoyed the exhibits showcasing ancestral skills such as making leather from tanning fish skin and creating dye pigments from the mushrooms found in local forests.
Also included is this wall showing words from the Musqueam language.
1900s to 1920s: Gateway to the Pacific
I’m a third-generation Vancouverite, with both sets of grandparents settling in Vancouver around 1911, coincidentally a few blocks apart. My maternal grandmother remembers carrying water to their log cabin, and I grew up on stories about the expanding city.
The Gateway to the Pacific gallery features thoughtfully curated displays related to the lives of the early settlers, both European and Asian. Photographs, mannequins dressed in vintage clothing, and an impressive collection of objects bring the era to life.
Other displays relate to Vancouver during World War I. My maternal great-grandfather, who was originally from England, left Vancouver in 1914 to fight overseas and was killed in 1916 when my grandmother was just 10 years old.
1930s to 1940s: Boom, Bust, and War
The exhibits in this gallery chronicle the growth of Vancouver through difficult times culminating in World War II.
A dark stain on the city’s history was the internment of people from the well-established Japanese-Canadian community following the bombing of Pearl Harbor. I know people whose grandparents and parents were relocated to internment camps in the interior of British Columbia. My mother, who lived not far from one of the internment camps in the early 1940s, remembered seeing the displaced people.
My mother moved to Vancouver in 1942 when my grandfather got work in one of the many new factories gearing up production for the war effort, and met my dad in high school. I remember my grandmother’s kitchen looking very similar to this one:
1950s: The ‘50s Gallery
For many of the people who settled in Vancouver, the post-war city was a hopeful place where home ownership was within reach. That was certainly the case for my family. We moved into our first house in the Kerrisdale neighborhood of Vancouver in 1960.
The exhibits in this gallery bring back fuzzy memories. I got a kick out of the old wringer washer which reminded me of my brother trying to put my Barbie doll through the wringer. He was not successful, as I recall.
Check out the display of neon signs. Vancouver was famous for its neon, mostly clustered along Granville Street. The full-size car is a nice touch.
1960s – 1970s: You Say You Want a Revolution
If you were born prior to the 1970s, you’ll experience a major walk down memory lane in this gallery. And even if you’re not from Vancouver, you’ll likely recognize something of your past in the exhibits.
As in many places in North America, the 1960s and 1970s in Vancouver were a time of contention. The city was growing fast, with protests, “hippies”, and alternative lifestyles front and center. The environmental group Greenpeace started in Vancouver during this period.
A highlight of this fun yet also thought-provoking gallery was seeing a poster with my husband’s name on it. Gregg Simpson was very active in the art scene during the late 1960s and early 1970s, both as an artist and a musician.
I spent quite a bit of time squinting at the many old photographs in the exhibit to catch a glimpse of him. We weren’t successful, but I did see many familiar names in the old posters and commentaries.
Completing Your Visit
The MOA is not a large museum. You can tour it in about an hour, depending on how long you like to spend reading the wealth of information provided.
After your visit, consider taking one of the adorable False Creek ferries to Granville Island.
MOV Practical Information
Getting There
If you’re visiting Vancouver and staying downtown without a car, your best option is to either take the #2 bus or rent a bicycle (weather permitting). Here are all your options:
Take the Bus
The museum is about a five-minute walk from Cornwall Avenue where the #2 bus stops. Plan your route on Translink.
Take the False Creek Ferry
From various points around False Creek, catch a ferry that stops at the Vancouver Maritime Museum (#5). Then, walk south-east for about five minutes to the museum entrance. If you’re planning on more explorations, consider buying a day pass for the False Creek ferry in advance.
Ride a Bike
Use the Mobi Bike Share service to cycle to Vanier Park. The bike share is located at Chestnut Street and McNicoll Avenue, just west of the MOA.
Walk from Granville Island
Walk west along the seawall for about 15 minutes. Note that in the winter months, the seawall may be closed for maintenance. If that’s the case, retrace your steps and take the ferry.
Drive
From downtown Vancouver:
Cross the Burrard Street bridge heading south.
Veer right onto Cornwall Street as you come off the bridge.
Turn right onto Chestnut Street (this will be the first street).
Turn right onto Whyte Avenue.
Turn left into the parking lot.
From the south:
Take Burrard Street going north.
Turn left onto Cornwall Street just before the Burrard Street Bridge.
Turn right onto Whyte Avenue.
Turn left into the parking lot.
Museum Hours and Ticket Prices
The MOV is open 7 days a week from 10 am to 5 pm. Admission costs $17 for adults, $12 for seniors and students, and $10 for youth ages 6 to 17. Children under five and individuals who self-identify as Indigenous enter for free.
For more information, check the Museum’s FAQ page.
Taking the Ferry to Granville Island
Nineteen little ferries ply the waters of False Creek, stopping at the places shown on the map below. The stop for the Museum of Vancouver is Maritime Museum (Kitsilano Beach).
For a round-trip cost of $10 for adults and $7 for seniors/children, you can take the ferry to Granville Island where you’ll find an excellent indoor market, restaurants, food stalls, and lots of fabulous shops.
I pretty much always find something to buy whenever I visit. On my most recent trip to Granville Island, I couldn’t resist purchasing a gorgeous red leather purse inset with a First Nations design of a raven.
Rates vary depending upon the route and the number of zones covered. If you choose, you can sail all the way to Science World at the easternmost end of False Creek. Check the rates.
The ferries scoot back and forth across False Creek and are a lot of fun to ride:
Catch the ferry from the dock below the Vancouver Maritime Museum, which is about a five-minute walk to the west of the Vancouver Museum.
Buy a return ticket on the ferry (they take credit cards) if you’re parked at the museum, or get a one-way ticket and then take a bus back to your home or accommodation. You can also purchase a day pass and explore more of False Creek.
Granville Island
The Granville Island Public Market is the main attraction on Granville Island. Here, you’ll find a dizzying array of produce, seafood, bakery items, gourmet edibles, gift items, and flowers. Lunch options also abound from food stalls serving up everything from perogies to poke.
Pro Tip: Treat yourself to a cannelle at Le Bise Bakery. They are seriously to die for.
Take your food outside and enjoy it while gazing out at the boats plying the waters of False Creek with the skyline of Vancouver and the mountains beyond. Here’s one of my favorite views towards the Burrard Street Bridge:
Shopping on Granville Island
After lunch, wander around the many shops on the island or even take in a performance at the Vancouver Arts Club Theatre next door to the market.
If you want more than a quick bite at the market, consider stopping in at the Tap & Barrel – Bridges Restaurant or the Dockside Restaurant. Both offer scenic views of the mountains and water and plenty of seafood options.
Other Vancouver Museums
Here’s a quick roundup of three other Vancouver museums worth visiting.
Museum of Anthropology
If you really want to dig into Indigenous history, head out to the Museum of Anthropology (#6) at the University of British Columbia, arguably the best museum in Vancouver. You’ll discover a comprehensive collection not only of indigenous art from BC, but also from across Canada and around the world.
Science World
If you have children (or even if you don’t but just like science!), then Science World (#7) should definitely be on your itinerary. Tons of hands-on interactive exhibits, cool science shows, and world-class feature exhibitions will keep you entertained and informed.
Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art
If you’ve visited the Museum of Anthropology, then you’ll have already seen some of Bill Reid’s magnificent work.
The Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art (#8) in downtown Vancouver exhibits the Bill Reid SFU Art Collection in addition to contemporary Indigenous Northwest Coast Art.
Where to Stay in Vancouver
Visitors to Vancouver are spoiled for choice when it comes to accommodations. Be warned, however, that prices are steep, especially for downtown hotels with views of the magnificent North Shore mountains and the ocean. Here are two of my favorite hotels in Vancouver:
Granville Island Hotel
The Granville Island Hotel (#9) is the closest hotel to the Museum of Vancouver and the Granville Island Public Market. It’s a great choice that’s a bit off the beaten track from downtown Vancouver.
Sutton Place Hotel
Located on Burrard Street (and so an easy bus ride over the Burrard Street Bridge to the Museum of Vancouver) and around the corner from plenty of good shops and restaurants on Robson Street, the Sutton Place Hotel (#10) is one of the more reasonable options in Vancouver with comfy 4-star rooms.
Vancouver Tours
GetYourGuide offers a few tours that include Granville Island. Here’s a foodie tour of Granville Island Public Market.
And here are more options for touring Vancouver. Why not really splurge and take a seaplane flight over the city? On a clear day, the views are amazing.
The Museum of Vancouver is worth a visit if you enjoy cultural history (which I do!).
The location of the museum is also a major plus. After you’ve toured the museum, you’ll enjoy breezy views of the ocean and mountains and perhaps take a ride on one of the little False Creek ferries.
Have you visited the Museum of Vancouver? What were your favorite galleries? Share your recommendations and observations in the Comments below.
Here are more posts about museums I’ve visited and heartily recommend:
Art masterpieces in Tuscany are as thick on the ground as grapes at harvest time.
When you visit Tuscany, you’ll enjoy la dolce vita, for sure, but in between sips of some of the world’s best wine, prepare to have your breath taken away by some of the world’s most cherished art.
Let’s face it, Tuscany is the perfect storm for art lovers with its stunning scenery, amazing food, tons of history, and world-class art.
In this post, I present a selection of the art masterpieces to consider including in your Tuscany travels—whether this is your first trip or your tenth (or somewhere in between).
Top Masterpieces at a Glance
Paintings by Martini, da Vinci, Botticelli & Artemisia at the Uffizi in Florence
You’ll recognize some of the art included in this post, but others you may not be familiar with. I include both individual masterworks and art destinations in Tuscany.
A few of my suggested places are a fair way off the beaten path which means they won’t be crowded.
Organization
I’ve grouped the art by location:
Florence
Villa Demidoff (Outside Florence)
San Gimignano
Siena
Il Giardino dei Tarocchi near Grosseto
The map of Tuscany below shows the general locations of the pieces covered in this post. See individual places for more detailed maps.
My list is in no way exhaustive. Tuscany is chock-a-block with magnificent art, and to list all of them requires books, not blog posts. This list is a starting point to help you create your own perfect Tuscany itinerary.
Art in Florence
For many travelers to Tuscany, Florence, birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, is their only destination, which is a shame.
This wonderful city is worth visiting, and you’ll see amazing art galore, but it’s also extremely crowded and lacks the charm of other, smaller Tuscan towns, such as Siena and Lucca.
Duomo in Florence, Italy
That said, if you haven’t been to Florence, then you should include it on your itinerary. Stay at least two nights and preferably three or four.
You won’t run out of important works of art to enjoy.
Map of Florence
Florence is a very walkable and compact city. You can easily stroll between each of the main sites.
The Uffizi Gallery in Florence is masterpiece-central in Tuscany and a must-see. But be warned! You really, really need to make reservations for the Uffizi.
Don’t just show up hoping to walk right in. That is, unless you enjoy standing in long lines that move an inch a minute while all the people with pre-purchased tickets whisk by. It’s disheartening.
Here’s a ticket option for the Uffizi that includes a small group guided tour.
The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333)
That’s a mouthful. I just call it Martini’s Annunciation. The subject of the annunciation—when the angel Gabriel flutters to earth and informs the Virgin Mary that she is to be the mother of Christ—was popular in medieval and Renaissance art.
I love this version by Martini and Memmi because of the expression on Mary’s face. She’s like, what? Seriously?
The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333) [Public domain]
I’m also taken with the gold background and the flatness of the figures, a characteristic of 14th century art.
You’ll come across Martini’s Annunciation shortly after entering the Uffizi. A lot of people trudge right past it on a beeline for the more famous paintings by Botticelli, da Vinci, et al, but stop in the galleries of 14th-century paintings and spend some time.
You’ll be well rewarded and won’t be jostling for viewing room with thousands of selfie-stick wielders.
Annunciation by da Vinci
In later centuries, Annunciations, such as the famous one by Leonardo da Vinci below, look more realistic, but I like the energy and composition of the Martini one the best.
Since the art in the Uffizi is arranged chronologically, you’ll see da Vinci’s Annunciation after you view the Martini and Memmi version.
The Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci: Public Domain
Birth of Venus by Botticelli (1485)
You’ve probably seen many reproductions of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. The goddess of beauty and love arrives on the island of Cyprus, born of the sea spray and blown by the winds Zephyr and Aura (seen in the top left corner).
Venus perches on the edge of a giant scallop shell as goddesses are wont to do. She’s just so danged perfect.
I mean, look at that hair!
Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli: Public Domain
The room containing several paintings by Botticelli is generally really crowded. If possible, visit the Uffizi early or late in the day so you can swoon in relative solitude.
Other Works by Botticelli
In addition to Birth of Venus, you’ll also see Botticelli’s equally famous Primavera along with several more of his paintings exhibited in four consecutive rooms.
And once you’ve finished looking at the real things, you can buy them on just about every knick-knack known to humanity in the many gift shops lining the streets of the city.
Primavera mouse pad? Sure. Birth of Venus apron? Definitely.
Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi
Hooray for Artemisia Gentileschi, one of the first recognized woman artists of the Baroque period. Several other women artists from the period (and earlier) have gained notice in recent years, but Artemisia is the one most people think of when asked to name a woman artist from back in the day.
She was also the first woman to be admitted to the Academy of Art and Design in Florence, which was no small feat at the time.
Artemisia’s painting of Judith beheading poor old Holofernes (hey, he deserved it) is an amazing work. Look at Judith’s muscles as she holds down Holofernes.
This subject was a favorite of the period, and male artists usually depicted Judith as a bit of an ethereal wimp. Not Artemisia. She doesn’t shy away from showing the sheer brute strength that Judith would need to saw the head off a man.
She and her maid are working hard!
Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi: Public Domain
Two Amazing Davids
That’s Davids plural because in Florence you must see the super-famous David by Michelangelo as well as the not-quite-so-famous-but still-awesome David by Donatello.
Both Davids represent the Renaissance in different ways.
Michelangelo’s David
The most famous statue of David is the one created by Michelangelo and displayed in the Accademia, another place for which you must secure reservations or risk a long line-up.
David stands with magnificent insouciance at the end of a long hallway lined with other works by Michelangelo.
Some of these works are unfinished—human figures emerging half-formed from marble blocks. I like these works almost more than the finished sculptures because they show the process of turning blocks into humans.
Michelangelo’s David in the Accademia Gallery
When you finally work your way up to the front of the line and stand in front of David in all his naked glory, you’ll know what all the fuss is about.
He is magnificent.
Although sculpted from marble, the muscles and sinews appear to pulse with life. Every inch of him is perfection—a testament to the beauty and power of the human form.
I remember wandering around the back of him and staring up at a pair of buttocks that any gym rat would kill for. While thinking unholy thoughts, I was joined by a bevy of nuns. They weren’t speaking English, so I couldn’t understand what they were saying, but they were definitely smiling—and, truth be told, giggling.
Well, no wonder.
Here’s an topin for purchasing your timed-entry ticket to see Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia.
Donatello’s David at the marvelous Bargello Museum (reservations also recommended) might as well be a different species.
Where Michelangelo’s marble-carved David is tall, strong, and, let’s face it, hunky, Donatello’s bronze David is relaxed, laid-back, and kind of pretty.
He wears a hat festooned with flowers and leans on his sword, one hand on his hip. He’s like, come on Goliath, I dare ya to come at me.
Donatello’s David is famous for being the first free-standing bronze sculpture since antiquity.
The Bargello Museum—a former prison—includes many more wonderful artworks to enjoy, including sculptures by Benvenuto Cellini and works by Michelangelo, including his statue of Bacchus.
Fra Angelico at the Museo di San Marco
The Museo di San Marco is a little off the beaten path which means it’s not crowded—a relief in Florence.
The museum is housed in the former Dominican Monastery (called the Convento di San Marco) where Fra’ Angelico lived as a monk from 1436 to 1455 and painted his stunning frescoes.
Wander down the long corridor flanked on either side by the monk’s cells and stop at each cell to view Fra’ Angelico’s frescoes. I love the way he painted angel wings—very art deco-looking and colorful.
Annunciation by Fra Angelico in Cell 3: Public Domain
The museum contains numerous frescoes by Fra’ Angelico, including the magnificent fresco in the Chapter House and his famous version of the Annunciation located at the top of the stairs leading to the cells. As I mentioned, I’m partial to Annunciations, and Fra’ Angelico’s version is one of the best.
Savonarola: A Burning Tale
You can also peek into the cell once occupied by the infamous Savonarola, who preached vociferously against greed and luxury and denounced clerical corruption, despotic rule, and the exploitation of the poor.
Unfortunately for Savonarola, he went too far with his well-intended but over-the-top spectacles, including his Bonfires of the Vanities, and ended up hanged and burned in 1498.
Oops.
Brancacci Chapel
The attraction at the lovely Brancacci Chapel across the Arno in a quieter and less touristy area of Florence are the gorgeous frescoes by Masaccio and Masolino. The Chapel is located away from the tourist hordes and requires a pleasantly long walk through a Florentine neighborhood in which people actually live.
I stopped for lunch at a café with three tiny tables perched on the edge of the sidewalk and enjoyed being the only tourist in the vicinity.
I was entertained watching a group of well-heeled, impeccably dressed Florentine businessmen lunching nearby. Each man looked like he’d stepped straight out of one of the Renaissance frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel.
Substitute business suits for tights and cloaks and not much has changed.
The Healing of Tabitha by Masolino at the Brancacci Chapel: Public Domain
Admission to the Brancacci Chapel is limited so purchase your tickets in advance. Tickets from this site let you skip the line, and provide a video guide.
You’ll be struck by the vivid colors in the Masaccio and Masolino frescoes commissioned in 1424. The Expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise is especially evocative.
Other Suggestions for Florence
Palazzo Davanzati
Tour this medieval palazzo to discover what life was like for wealthy people in the early Renaissance. I had a great visit even though the guided tour was in Italian.
It didn’t matter; I could still get a good idea of how people lived.
A highlight is the painted walls in many of the rooms. When I was writing my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, I often envisioned the layout of the rooms in the Palazzo Davanzati as I wrote.
Here’s an option for a private guided tour of the Palazzo Davanzati, which would be well worth your time if you are interested in how rich people lived seven hundred-odd years ago.
Treat yourself to a refreshing walk through these beautiful gardens with spectacular views over Florence and the Tuscan countryside.
The beautifully green Boboli Gardens
When it’s hot (as it often is in the summer), do yourself a favor and escape the crush of tour groups in the center of the city and take a taxi across the Arno to the Boboli Gardens.
Florence overflows with interesting museums and churches and artwork to keep you busy for days.
And don’t forget shopping! Florence is the place in Tuscany to buy leather goods (although they can be cheaper in Siena but without as much choice).
Tours in Florence
Here are some Get Your Guide tour options in Florence.
In the gardens of the Villa Demidoff in Pratolino, about ten kilometers north of Florence in the beautiful Tuscan countryside, you can visit the aptly named Colossus. A seated figure that appears to be half rock, half man broods on an outcropping above a pond.
I adore this statue!
It’s just so darned unexpected. We visited a hot summer’s day and were captivated. The 35-foot tall Colossus is a colossal (ha!) statue created in the late 1500s by the Italian sculptor Giambologna.
Colossus at the Villa Demidoff
Despite his size, Colossus looks quite melancholy, as if he wished he could rise from the rocks keeping him captive and clomp off to a quiet grove where no one would take selfies with him.
Inside Colossus are various chambers.
Other Sites in the Gardens
The gardens are home to several more interesting features, including the hexagonal Chapel of Buontalenti, a fantastic dragon sculpture behind Colossus, the Cupid’s grotto, and the fountain of Jupiter.
The park is open every weekend from April to October, and admission is free. Before you go, check opening times on the park website.
For a good day out, rent a car and drive north to enjoy the park and the surrounding area, then have dinner in Fiesole while watching the sun set over Florence in the valley below.
You can also take a bus to Pratolino: catch the ATAF bus #25A from Piazza San Marco – the “A” is important. SITA also offers service to Pratolino from the main stop in SMN Piazza Stazione and CAP, with stops on Via Nazionale in Florence.
Art Masterpieces in Siena
Hands down, Siena is my favorite city in Tuscany. I never tire of wandering its narrow streets and then emerging, dazzled by the sun, into the Piazza del Campo—or Il Campo.
Called the most beautiful living room in Italy, Il Campo takes my breath away every time.
The breathtaking Campo
The first time I went to Siena by myself, I was so overcome with emotion by finally making it to the Campo, where several important scenes in my novel The Towers of Tuscany take place, that I dropped to my knees, lay down on my back, and took a selfie.
Relaxing on the 14th-century bricks of the Campo in Siena
Fortunately, no one batted an eye. Several people were doing the same, their backs warmed by bricks laid in the 1330s, not long before the Black Death carried away half of the medieval city’s population.
Siena is very compact, which is a good thing because the only way to get around is by walking. Fortunately, you can stroll between the two major sites–the cathedral and the palazzo publicco in just a few minutes. Use the map below to orient yourself.
I single out the Piccolomini Library as one of two must-see masterpieces in Siena, but really, the entire cathedral (also known as the Duomo) is worth a half-day of your touring time.
You can skip the line by buying your tickets ahead. Your ticket is also good for the baptistery, crypt, and the Opera museum—all must-sees.
Cathedral Square and Duomo
Cathedral of Siena
A superb example of the Gothic Roman style in Italy, the Cathedral (the Duomo) is full of treasures. Marvel at the Duomo’s indoor and outdoor alternating stripes in white and greenish-black marble.
Black and white are the symbolic colors of Siena.
Unlike the sparse interiors of some cathedrals in Italy, the interior of the Duomo is fantastically decorated.
Overlooking the Duomo
Look for the statue of St. John the Baptist by Donatello to the right after the Piccolomini Library, the rose window by Duccio di Buoninsegna, and the marble pulpit by Nicola Pisano, along with many gorgeous frescoes.
One of the most beautiful parts of the cathedral is its floor. You can spend hours wandering around the huge mosaics to “read” the stories.
The fifty-six etched and inlaid marble panels were designed between 1369 and 1547 by forty leading artists.
Piccolomini Library
And then there’s the Piccolomini Library itself. This place was a surprise to me. I hadn’t heard of it and so was in for a treat when I entered and had the breath knocked out of me (figuratively speaking).
Ceiling in the Piccolomini Library
The library is dedicated to Enea Silvio Piccolomini, an immensely powerful man in the mid 1400s who was elected Pope Pius II in 1458.
The big draw in the library are the frescoes by Pinturicchio.
Each of the ten scenes representing important stages in the life of Pope Pius II is exquisitely painted. The colors, perspective, figures, and backgrounds are incredibly detailed and evocative of their time. I was mesmerized.
Maestà Altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna
While you’re hanging around the Duomo, don’t miss the Opera museum (it’s part of your ticket) so you can admire the Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna that was commissioned by the cathedral in 1311.
I like the altarpiece because it’s gorgeous and because it makes a cameo appearance in my novel, The Towers of Tuscany.
Central panel of the Maestà, 1308–1311, by Duccio di Buoninsegna. Museo dell’Opera metropolitana del Duomo, Italy
Palazzo Pubblico
You can’t miss the Palazzo Pubblico in Il Campo. The much-photographed red brick palazzo that looks like a child’s drawing of a castle has become one of the most recognized views in Siena. I’ve taken my share of photos of it and the adjacent Torre Mangia.
Palazzo Pubblico
The Palazzo Pubblico dates from the early 14th century and played an important role in ensuring Siena enjoyed relative peace from the late 13th century to 1355.
While you tour the Museo Civico, read about the “Government of the Nine”, the system of government that consisted of nine representatives of the people elected from the middle class and not from the noble families. This relatively democratic form of government was responsible for commissioning many civic works of art in the first half of the 14th century.
Museo Civico – Torre Mangia
The Museo Civico is located on the first floor of the Palazzo Pubblico, which still functions as Siena’s city hall.
Enter the courtyard called the Cortile del Podestà to access the Museo Civico and, if you’re feeling energetic, climb the 400 steps to the top of the Torre Mangia.
The view is spectacular, but the narrow staircase is claustrophobic and, in the summer, very hot. I’ve climbed the Torre Mangia once and do not feel the need to do so again.
Frescoes in Sala del Mappamondo
There are plenty of interesting things to look at in the Museo Civico, but the big draw are the frescoes by Simone Martini and Ambrogio Lorenzetti.
The two large frescoes by Simone Martini are located in the massive hall called Sala del Mappamondo. You can’t miss it. To your left as you enter the hall is the Maestà by Simone Martini. The gorgeous fresco shows the Madonna seated on a throne with the Child and surrounded by angels and saints. Note all the haloes!
Maestà by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico: Public Domai
Turn around and at the other end of the hall you’ll see the fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano, a general on his horse with the castles he just conquered in the distance. You’ll see reproductions of this piece in a lot of souvenir shops.
I love how Guidoriccio and his horse are wearing the same ensemble. Very stylish.
Fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain
Frescoes in the Sala dei Nove
Now walk into the Sala dei Nove—the Hall of the Nine—to see Siena’s most famous masterpiece: the fresco cycle called Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti.
You’ll get a sore neck looking up at the three wall-size frescoes, famous because they’re interesting to look at and because they depict secular subjects instead of religious ones—a rarity at the time (1340s).
I love the girls dancing in the Good Government fresco (pictured below). Take a seat and enjoy gazing up at the frescoes. Whenever I’ve been to the Sala dei Novel, I’ve been pretty much alone.
Although famous, these frescoes aren’t that famous which means you’re likely able to enjoy them crowd-free.
Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Pubblico: Public Domain
Other Suggestions for Siena
Siena is worth at least two days of your time, although people often squeeze it in as an afternoon trip from Florence. Please don’t do that!
Compared to overcrowded Florence, this wonderful small city is a medieval treat. Make room in your itinerary for a proper visit so you have ample time to get to know this delightful city. You won’t find many big-ticket sites, but that’s not the point of Siena.
Here are some options for touring Siena and other nearby locations:
And when you’re not enjoying the art, spend time wandering the back streets of Siena.
Enjoy a cappuccino in one of the cafés overlooking the Campo and buy yourself a leather purse or two. They are far more reasonably priced here than in Florence. My collection is growing!
Art Masterpieces in San Gimignano
San Gimignano is overrun with tourists and crammed with tacky tourist shops. And yet I love it!
Every time we visit Tuscany, we stay for a few days in the vicinity of San Gimignano. We usually spend the day either touring around the countryside or staying put in our hotel to write (me) and draw (Gregg).
San Gimignano
Then, towards the end of the afternoon when the parking lots surrounding Gimignano start to empty, we venture forth.
By 4 or 5 pm, the tour busses have lumbered off, the merchants are standing outside their shops taking a much-needed break, the hot streets are shaded by the towers, and the whole town seems to exhale with relief.
Stroll virtually deserted side streets in search of art and food (in that order). For a small hill town, San Gimignano punches above its weight in excellent restaurants.
You’ll see a lot of art in San Gimignano, but don’t miss these two sites which fortunately are close to each other:
Palazzo Comunale in the Civic Museum
Located next to the Duomo, the Civic Museum also includes the Torre Grossa—the tallest of San Gimignano’s seventeen towers and the only one you can climb.
I have climbed it, and it’s worth doing, but the real draw are the frescoes in the chamber of the Podestà in the Palazzo Comunale (which also has other good art to enjoy).
View from the top of the Torre Grossa in San Gimignano
Snares of Love
The series of frescoes is called the “snares of love”, painted by Memmo di Filippucio between 1303 to 1310.
Scenes show both profane love and scenes from marriage. I love the secular nature of these frescoes, especially the one where the young married couple share a bathtub.
One of the frescoes in the Palazzo Comunale Civic Museum in San Gimignano
Frescoes in the Duomo of San Gimignano
The Duomo also contains an amazing number and variety of frescoes. Every wall on both sides of the nave is filled with frescoes, most dating from the 1300s.
The vivid colors are original; the frescoes have never required restoration.
Get the audio guide and walk slowly around the frescoes, picking out scene after scene from the Old and New Testaments. Even if you’re not into Bible stories, you can’t help but be entranced by these frescoes. I enjoy studying the clothing and the facial expressions for inspiration.
Pick up a ticket to the Museum of Sacred Art in the Duomo that includes an audio guide from this link.
Other Suggestions for San Gimignano
Climb to the top of the ruined Fortezza (fortress) at the highest point in San Gimignano to enjoy spectacular views over the countryside.
Even when the main street is heaving with sweaty tourists, the Fortezza is usually virtually empty.
San Gimignano 1300
One of my favorite museums in San Gimignano is San Gimignano 1300, located in a side street close to the Piazzale Comunale.
Here you’ll view a scale model of San Gimignano as it appeared in 1300.
You may also be able to pick up a copy ofThe Towers of Tuscany at San Gimignano 1300. I first visited the exhibit back in 2011 when I was researching my novel, and have returned many times since.
Here is where you’ll see a stunning collection of whimsical sculptures by modern artist Niki Saint Phalle. The sculptures are based on the Tarot cards and are a must-see if you’re looking for something far off the beaten path.
And the sculptures are a nice break from the medieval and Renaissance masterpieces that make up most of the art in Tuscany.
We spent a full hour wandering around the gardens on a hot afternoon in September. Although I took tons of photographs, they don’t do the sculptures justice. You have to visit the gardens and touch the sculptures, walk inside them, and sit on them to fully appreciate them.
When you go, check the website for the current opening hours. Usually, the gardens are open daily from April 1 to October 15 from 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm. In the winter, the gardens are open only on the first Saturday of the month from 9 am to 1 pm.
Where to Stay in Tuscany
I don’t think I’ve ever stayed in a sub-standard place in Tuscany. You are spoiled for choice! While prices will not be low if you’re looking for comfort and convenience (my two must-haves!), you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous views, friendly proprietors and il dolce vita!
Here are four of my favorite places I’ve stayed around Tuscany:
Sant’Antonio Country Resort near Montelpulciano: Fantastic place to kick back and relax. Stay for a week! I write a whole post about my experience staying there.
Agriturismo Casanova di Pescille near San Gimignano: You’ll need a car, but this place (and a handful more in the area) is just about perfect.
Serristori Palace Residence in Florence: this spacious apartment is right on the river and about a ten minute walk into the center of Florence. Highly recommended.
I Merli di Ada in Siena: this place is delightful! It’s very centrally located with lovely hosts and a comfy and spacious room.
Summary
My list of must-see art masterpieces barely scratches the surface of all the wonderful art you can enjoy when you slow down and take time to get to know Tuscany in all its glory.
Plan to spend two weeks enjoying the many beautiful towns and villages: Montalcino, Montepulciano, Lucca, Pisa, Volterra…the list goes on. Take a walking holiday or book into an agritourism property and settle in for a week of great food and long, warm days.
The Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia (UBC) is the must-see museum in my hometown of Vancouver.
While I was on an Alaskan cruise a few years back, several visitors asked me what they should see during their one day in Vancouver. I always said the anthropology museum and always received a blank stare.
Regrettably, this world-class museum is not as well known as it deserves to be. Usually, when people talk about what tourists should see in Vancouver, they say the Capilano Suspension Bridge (crowded and way over-priced), the Vancouver Art Gallery (okay), and Stanley Park (a definite yes).
But a trip out to UBC to tour the Museum of Anthropology (MOA) is an absolute must. MOA houses an unparalleled collection of northwest coast Indigenous art and artifacts, along with exquisite exhibits of objects from cultures all over the world.
Overview
In this post, I share my recommendations for enjoying your visit to the UBC Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver, BC. I’ve also included practical information, such as hours, admission fees, and how to get there. Finally, check out what else you can see at the University of British Columbia and my suggested hotels in downtown Vancouver.
Where is the Museum of Anthropology (MOA)?
Designed by famed Canadian architect Arthur Erickson, the Museum of Anthropology (also known as MOA) is located on the campus of the University of British Columbia at the very tip of Point Grey, a peninsula that juts into the Strait of Georgia west of Vancouver’s downtown core. See #1 on the map below.
After being closed for a few years for seismic upgrading, MOA is again welcoming visitors.
Here’s the view of mountains and ocean that greets you from the rose garden on a hill above the museum.
The map below shows the location of the Museum of Anthropology (#1) along with other worthwhile sites at the University of British Columbia and recommended hotels in Vancouver.
After parking in the lot conveniently located just off NW Marine Drive and adjacent to the museum, you pass the MOA sign and a rock with a message in two languages reminding you that you are on the ancestral homeland of the Musqueam people.
I grew up close to this area and regrettably learned very little about the people who first lived here. In recent years, great strides are being made to redress the imbalances.
One such development is the increasing use of Indigenous names for landmarks that for 150 years were known by their “settler” names.
Entering the Museum of Anthropology
Enter the spacious lobby and buy your ticket. If you have a backpack or bag, you’ll need to store it in the lockers provided (they even give you a quarter to open a locker!).
And now, get ready for some serious awesomeness! Your first stop? Walk down a shallow ramp past exhibits of local First Nations art and into the Great Hall.
On your way, read the many informative plaques to learn about the displays. Their purpose is to educate visitors about why each object or artifact is significant to the culture and heritage of the First Nations people.
Here’s the description of the contemporary woven blanket displayed to your right as you walk down the ramp:
We dedicate this blanket to our mother Helen, our elders, and those who have gone before us. We look at this blanket as part of the tradition of education that was in place in our community for generations and is now being revived. Our ancestors speak through this weaving, through all of our weavings. In this way, they continue to share their knowledge with us.
The Great Hall
I’ve visited the Museum of Anthropology at UBC many times. But every time I walk into the Great Hall filled with one of the world’s most extensive collections of Indigenous art from the northwest coast, I feel an overwhelming sense of awe.
MOA does an excellent job of explaining the significance of each of the displays, with much of the information contributed by Indigenous artists who are carving totems and creating art today.
Stroll around this large space to get a feel for the awesomeness of the art and take time to read the explanatory plaques.
Here are some of the many totem poles that west coast First Nations people carved from cedar. Tilt your head back and marvel at the intricacy and beauty of the poles soaring to the rafters in this incredible space.
Sea-Lion House
It’s difficult to single out any one piece for more elaboration because every piece is accompanied by a fascinating story. The Sea-Lion House (Indigenous name Klix’Ken Gukwdzi) is particularly noteworthy.
According to the information provided, the First Nations community built the house in 1906 in defiance of the assimilation pressures imposed through the federal Indian Act.
This house was the last old-style dwelling erected in the village as a home for an extended family. It’s probably one of the last examples of traditional northwest coast architecture in the entire Pacific Northwest.
Colonialism and Indigenous People
The dramatic beauty of traditional northwest coast art on display at MOA is all the more remarkable considering that for decades, many of the cultural traditions of the First Nations people in British Columbia were banned.
Potlaches were outlawed, people were not permitted to wear their masks or dance or sing their traditional songs, and their languages were systematically wiped out.
In recent decades, the devastation wrought by these draconian laws is slowly being overcome. MOA’s curators and historians are doing an amazing job of putting together thoughtful and beautiful displays that celebrate the First Nations culture and do not shy away from painful truths about the colonial past.
European Ceramics Gallery
After marveling at the totems and other displays in the Great Hall, return to the entrance and head to the right to tour the Koerner Collection of European ceramics.
The feeling here is completely different but no less interesting. This extensive collection features ceramics displayed in a darkened room that every time I’ve visited has been virtually empty.
I enjoyed learning something about the history of ceramics and was fascinated by so many incredible examples of ceramic art, some dating back millennia.
These little guys are particularly adorable. They were made in the 18th century at the Holič factory in Hungary.
Multiversity Galleries
From the ceramics exhibition head back through the main hall and explore the museum’s multiversity galleries. MOA pioneered the use of open storage displays to exhibit their massive collection of objects from around the world.
These message greets you at the entrance to the Multiversity Galleries:
Enter here to meet creative expressions from around the globe. The galleries are laid out like a map of the world, joined by oceans and rivers. Pull open the drawers. Look up more information at the computer stations. Experience how connecting objects and people can bring the collection to life.
Here’s a portion of the South Pacific collection.
Northwest Coast First Nations Art and Objects
Don’t miss the collection of Pacific Northwest objects and art created by the area’s First Nations people. It is by far the largest collection in the galleries and features impressive displays of sculptures, masks, baskets, hats, textiles, and much more—some historical, some contemporary.
This massive Raven mask has been passed down for generations and, like all the exhibits in the First Nations collection, holds both artistic and spiritual significance along with precious knowledge for the communities that used it in ceremonies.
World Cultures
MOA features an impressive collection of thousands of ethnographic objects and artifacts from around the world. You’ll see magnificent objects from the Americas, Africa, Asia, and Oceania along with thoughtful and comprehensive descriptions.
Here are just a few examples of the breadth and astonishing variety of the collection the museum features.
Take your time to really look at these incredible objects. You could easily spend hours. And don’t forget to open the drawers! You never know what you’ll discover.
Works by Bill Reid
Acclaimed Haida artist Bill Reid is renowned for his sculptures and jewelry, several breathtaking examples of which are displayed in the museum.
The centerpiece is Bill Reid’s sculpture called The Raven and the First Men.
This stunning sculpture, made from a 4.5-ton cube of 106 laminated beams, took several years to complete. The museum acquired it in 1980.
Here is the legend of Raven and the First Humans as presented on MOA’s excellent website:
One day after the great flood Raven was walking along the beach at Rose spit in the Queen Charlotte Islands when he heard a sound emanating from a clamshell at his feet. He looked more closely and saw that the shell was full of small humans. He coaxed, cajoled and coerced them to come out and play in the wonderful new world. Some immediately scurried back into the shell, but eventually curiosity overcame caution, and they all clambered out. From these little dwellers came the original Haidas, the first humans.
Walk around the sculpture and be constantly enchanted by how it changes. This piece is a marvel.
Special Exhibitions
In addition to the three areas described in this post, MOA has areas devoted to special exhibitions. These vary throughout the year, so check the website to find out what’s on during your visit.
Tours of MOA
You can choose to take one of the free guided tours the museum offers with one of the new Cultural Interpreters. Learn about the collection from an Indigenous perspective and gain insight from Cultural Interpreters who have a personal connection to the belongings and treasures.
Tours last 45 to 60 minutes and are offered Tuesday to Thursday at 11 am, 1 pm and 3 pm, and Friday to Sunday at 1 pm and 3 pm.
Make sure to check the website to confirm the schedule.
Practical Information
The Museum of Anthropology is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm (Thursdays to 9 pm). It’s closed on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Museum admission currently costs $25 for adults, $22 for seniors (65+) and students, and $10 for youth. Children under 5, Indigenous people, UBC students, staff and faculty, and MOA members are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.
Museum Gift Shop
The museum’s small gift shop features with some pretty nice stuff, including plenty of examples of Indigenous art, jewelry and crafts, along with books and souvenirs.
Accessing the Museum of Anthropology from Downtown Vancouver
The Museum of Anthropology is located on the University of British Columbia campus, about 20 minutes from downtown Vancouver (#2 in the map at the beginning of this post). Here are some options for getting there from downtown Vancouver:
By Public Transit: Take the #4 UBC Bus from various downtown locations to the UBC Exchange or take the #99 B-Line bus to the UBC bus loop. From there, it’s about a ten-minute walk to MOA. Check the Translink website for routes, fares, and schedules.
From Vancouver International Airport (#3), take the Canada Line Skytrain to the Olympic Village station and then transfer to the #84 bus to UBC.
By Car: The museum is located at 6393 Northwest Marine Drive on the UBC campus. Ample parking is available at the museum, and parking fees are typically in line with campus parking rates.
Walking or Cycling: If you’re staying nearby, you can reach the museum on foot or by bicycle.
Other Attractions Near the Museum of Anthropology
If you have time to explore further, there are several other interesting attractions nearby.
Beaty Biodiversity Museum
Located a short walk from MOA, the Beaty Biodiversity Museum (#4) on the UBC campus is another excellent museum with exhibits showcasing the incredible biodiversity of our planet. Here are some pictures I took on a visit there.
You could spend hours browsing the extensive displays. With its wonderful collection of taxidermy animals, it’s a great place to take children.
UBC Botanical Garden
Another nearby gem is the UBC Botanical Garden (#5). Here, you can explore themed gardens, hiking trails, and a diverse collection of plant species from around the world. Established in 1916, the garden is Canada’s oldest university botanic garden.
I love going in the late spring and summer. Take your walking shoes; there’s a lot to see and it’s big!
Pacific Spirit Regional Park
For nature lovers, Pacific Spirit Regional Park (#6) offers extensive walking and hiking trails through lush forest, providing a peaceful retreat from the city. It’s a great spot for a post-museum stroll.
Nitobe Gardens
I adore Nitobe Gardens (#7) and pop in almost every time I visit the campus of the University of British Columbia. The gardens are a short walk from MOA so you can easily include it in your visit.
Considered one of the most authentic Japanese gardens outside of Japan, Nitobe Gardens is just gorgeous no matter what time of year you visit. But the best times are in spring when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom and again in the fall when the maple leaves are bright red.
Here are two photos taken in late spring.
Where to Stay in Vancouver
Vancouver is a major tourist destination for Canada-bound travelers, and as such has plenty of excellent hotels. Your best bet is to stay in a hotel downtown, preferably one with a view of the magnificent North Shore mountains and the ocean.
Here are my three favorite hotels in Vancouver:
Granville Island Hotel
Located on Granville Island about a ten-minute bus ride from downtown Vancouver, the Granville Island Hotel is a great choice if you’re looking something a little bit different.
You can stroll around the Granville Island Market and other shops, take in a performance at nearby Bard on the Beach or the Arts Club Theatre, and listen to the seagulls as you drift off to sleep.
Pan Pacific Vancouver
Pan Pacific Vancouver is one of Vancouver’s most iconic hotels with gorgeous views of the cruise ships and freighters in Burrard Inlet with the North Shore mountains beyond.
This hotel is upscale, expensive, and right in the center of the action. It’s a great choice if you’re staying overnight in Vancouver before taking an Alaskan cruise.
The Westin Bayshore
I love The Westin Bayshore and often stay here if I’m taking a “town” break from my home on nearby Bowen Island.
The Bayshore’s location right next to Stanley Park is a huge selling point. Rent a bike and ride around the park, then return to the hotel and enjoy a drink overlooking Vancouver’s stunning harbor.
Vancouver Tours
GetYourGuide offers a variety of tours of Vancouver and the surrounding areas. If you have a full day to spare, then I recommend you head up to Whistler.
On this tour, you’ll ride the Sea to Sky Gondola in Squamish, explore Whistler Village (don’t miss the Audain Art Museum), and visit stunning Shannon Falls on the world-famous Sea-to-Sky Highway.
After visiting MOA, you may feel inspired by the various Indigenous portrayals of the Orcas that swim in the local waters. Treat yourself to a whale watching experience.
The Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver is a cultural and artistic treasure well worth a few hours of your time.
The sweeping views of mountains and sea you’ll enjoy on the journey out to the University of British Columbia are reason enough to visit, but you’ll also learn so much about the Indigenous cultures of the Pacific Northwest and get a chance to marvel at the the objects on display from around the world.
The ingenuity of people never ceases to amaze me, which is why I love museums like this.
Have you visited the Museum of Anthropology? What were your favorite exhibits? Share your recommendations and observations in the Comments below.
Here are some more posts about museums I’ve visited and heartily recommend:
In the heart of Granada, a family witnesses the worst horrors of the Spanish Civil War. Divided by politics and tragedy, everyone must choose a side, fighting a personal battle as Spain tears itself apart. With wonderful scenes featuring flamenco, this novel is a must-read for Spain bound travelers.
Dulcinea is a feminist reimagining of Cervantes’s Dolça, the fictional muse behind Don Quixote. The daughter of a wealthy merchant, young Dolça Llull Prat is besotted with the dashing, bootstrapping Miguel Cervantes from their first meeting. When Miguel renders her as the lowly Dulcinea in his great Quixote, revealing their association, he commits an unforgivable offense, and their decades-long affinity is severed—until he reaches out to her one last time.
Presented as a fictionalized autobiography, The Master of the Prado begins in Madrid in 1990, when Sierra encounters a mysterious stranger named Luis Fovel within the halls of the Prado. Fovel takes him on a whirlwind tour and promises to uncover startling secrets hidden in the museum’s masterpieces—secrets that open up a whole new world to Sierra.
This a dual-time novel about artists and identity. Esther Markstrom and her artist mother have always been proud of their ancestor, painter Francisco Vella. They even run a small museum and gallery dedicated to raising awareness of his scandalously underappreciated work. But when Esther reconnects with her former art history professor, she finds her once-solid family history on shaky ground as questions arise about Vella’s greatest work–a portrait entitled The Lady with the Dark Hair.
When art historian Cate Adamson discovers a hidden painting, possibly a Baroque masterpiece, she risks her career, financial disaster, and further alienation from her family and flees to Spain with the painting to consult art experts.
Following her birth 1500, Renaissance-era artist Mira is raised in a Pyrenees convent believing she is an orphan until she learns the terrible truth about her true origins, and must determine whether she possesses the strength to face those who would wish her harm.
Listed in the Literature category on Art In Fiction, The Lines Between Us is a dual-time book that takes place in Madrid in 1661 and Missouri in 1992. The connection between the two eras leads Rachel in 1992 to try healing the wounds caused by her mother’s lifelong reticence.
The bequest of a cello bow sets Feliu on the path to becoming a musician, an unlikely destiny given his beginnings in a dusty Catalonian village. When he is forced to flee to anarchist Barcelona, his education in music, life, and politics begins.
Barcelona, 1945: A city slowly heals in the aftermath of the Spanish Civil War, and Daniel, an antiquarian book dealer’s son who mourns his mother’s death, finds comfort in a mysterious book entitled The Shadow of the Wind, by one Julián Carax. But when he sets out to find the author’s other works, he makes a shocking discovery: someone has been systematically destroying every copy of every book Carax has written.
Want more novels set in Spain? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.
Guidebooks About Spain
My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on Spain. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.
Tours Around Spain
Visit some of the destinations mentioned in the featured novel. This 5-day tour that starts in Madrid, takes you to Cordoba, Seville, Granada, and Toledo.
Have you read a novel set in Spain, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Check out these posts that provide suggestions for what to read in other European countries:
The Anatomy Lesson takes readers through a single day in Golden Age Amsterdam when the city is preparing for the Winter Festival: executions, followed by a public dissection, and then a feast and torch parade through the city.
History and fiction merge seamlessly in a novel about artistic vision and sensual awakening set in 1664 in Delft. Young Griet goes to work in the household of the great painter Johannes Vermeer and is immortalized in canvas and paint.
This historical biographical novel tells the story of Judith Leyster, a Dutch painter from the 17th century whose work was lost to history until 1893. The novel richly weaves the journey of a woman of ambition set against the backdrop of Rembrandt and an uncompromising religion.
Inspired by real events in the artist’s life, The Rembrandt Secret is an historical thriller that follows a deadly serial killer who is wreaking havoc across London and New York.
Book 4 in Jennifer S. Alderson’s Zelda Richardson Mystery series revolves around the discovery of a missing portrait by Johannes Vermeer that results in a dangerous game of cat-and-mouse with unethical art collectors, unscrupulous dealers, and an all-too-real killer.
Seventeenth-century Amsterdam is a city in the grip of tulip fever. To celebrate growing wealthy from this exotic new flower, a merchant commissions a gifted young artist to paint him with his beautiful bride. But as the portrait grows, so does the passion between his wife and the painter; and ambitions, desires, and dreams breed an intricate deception and a reckless gamble.
When ancient notebooks surface in a Long Island garage, Peter Van Overloop, a Columbia grad student, sets about translating them, and finds himself immersed in the life and times of the Dutch painter Frans Hals. The notebooks appear to be Hal’s diaries, and they paint a gripping portrait of a man living in the age of Rembrandt and Descartes, and bursting with a lust for the world surrounding him.
Textiles historian Jo Baaker returns to the Dutch island where she was born, to investigate the provenance of a valuable 17th-century silk dress retrieved from a sunken shipwreck. Her research leads her to Anna Tesseltje, a poor Amsterdam laundress who served on the fringes of the Dutch court. But how did Anna come to possess such a precious dress?
In 1660, Amsterdam is the trading and map-printing capital of the world. Anneke van Brug is one of the colorists paid to enhance black-and-white maps for a growing number of collectors. But Anneke is not content to simply embellish the work of others; she longs to create maps of her own.
In this 17th-century historical romance, gifted artist Clara Peeters has to make sacrifices and risk everything to pursue her craft. Together with fellow pupil Nico, the two find themselves surrounded by dangerous secrets and powerful enemies. But in the face of so much past pain, can something as fragile as love survive?
Want more novels set in the Netherlands? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.
Guidebooks About the Netherlands
My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on the Netherlands. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.
Tours Around the Netherlands
While reading one of my featured novels, you may want to explore more of the Netherlands on a bus tour. On this tour that starts and ends in Amsterdam, you’ll see traditional 17th-century houses and windmills in the Dutch countryside and visit Zaanse Schans, Volendam, Edam, and Marken.
Have you read a novel set in the Netherlands, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Check out these posts that provide suggestions for what to read in other European countries:
Read novels set in England to get you excited about your trip or, even better, to read while you’re there. Numerous authors have been inspired to set novels in England, particularly novels inspired by England’s rich literary heritage from Shakespeare to Jane Austen to Oscar Wilde to Agatha Christie.
And yes, one of the novels set in England is mine! The Muse of Fire is my third novel, and it’s set in early 19th Century London and inspired by real events.
Oscar Wilde’s wife and two sons come out from the shadows of history in this emotional journey of a family moving from the Italian countryside to the trenches of WWI as they grapple with their famous father’s legacy.
Listed in the Architecture category on Art In Fiction, From the Ground Up takes place in Elizabethan England and is Katherine J. Scott’s first Robert Smythson Mystery.
In this contemporary romance, Hanna Ballard is a film location manager involved in pre-production for a film set in the Somerset countryside when she becomes involved with the local landowner.
From deep in the trenches of the Great War to the storied English countryside and the devastating Coventry Blitz of World War II, The British Booksellers explores the unbreakable bonds that unite us through love, loss, and the enduring solace that can be found between the pages of a book.
This wild and hallucinatory reimagining of Elizabethan London is listed in the Theater category on Art In Fiction and is a fever-dream full of prophecy and anarchy, gutter rats and bird gods that takes the reader on a wild ride from the rooftops of Elizabethan London to its dark underbelly.
This compelling and heartwarming story is set in post-war London and revolves around three women working at Bloomsbury Books, an old-fashioned new and rare bookstore that has persisted and resisted change for a hundred years. As the women interact with various literary figures of the time–Daphne Du Maurier, Ellen Doubleday, Sonia Blair (widow of George Orwell), Samuel Beckett, Peggy Guggenheim, and others–they plot out a future that is richer and more rewarding than anything society will allow.
Set in London in 1930, the five greatest women crime writers have banded together to form a secret society with a single goal: to show they are no longer willing to be treated as second class citizens by their male counterparts in the legendary Detection Club. Led by the formidable Dorothy L. Sayers, the group includes Agatha Christie, Ngaio Marsh, Margery Allingham and Baroness Emma Orczy–the Queens of Crime.
Set in the 1920s, The Last Heir to Blackwood Library is described as a love letter to books. It’s a compelling rags-to-riches tale laced with betrayal and intrigue with a magnificent library and an enigmatic manuscript at its center.
Set in London in 1808-09, The Muse of Fire takes readers behind the scenes at Covent Garden theater where the intrigue, romance, and betrayal offstage rivals the drama in the plays performed onstage.
This telling of the little-known story behind Shakespeare’s most enigmatic play is a luminous portrait of a marriage and the devastating loss of a beloved child.
Want more novels set in England? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.
Guidebooks About England
My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on England. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.
Tours Around England
I highly recommend a tour around Southwest England to give you a good sense of the beautiful English countryside described in some of my featured novels. This tour from Bristol visits many of the same locations I went to on the 4-day tour I took, including Minack Theatre, Durdle Door, Stonehenge, and St Ives.
Have you read any arts-inspired novels set in England? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Check out these posts containing suggestions for what to read in other European countries:
Read novels set in Germany to get you excited about your trip or, even better, to read while you’re there. Numerous authors have been inspired to set novels in Germany–and not all of them are World War II novels set in Germany (although some are).
Each of the novels listed in this post relates in some way to the arts–from glassblowing to a lost Bach manuscript to a medieval cathedral, and more.
And if you can’t find what you’re looking for here, go to my sister site Art In Fiction and search for Germany or a related subject, and see what comes up.
This wonderful novel is the first in Petra Durst-Benning’s Glassblower Trilogy. It tells the story of three sisters in 19th century Germany who must learn the art of glass-blowing that has traditionally been done only by men so they can take care of themselves in a harsh world.
This dual-time novel spans over two hundred years from Berlin in the 18th century through the Holocaust to New York in contemporary times to tell the story of a lost Bach manuscript with a disturbing message. The novel is inspired by historical events.
This dual-time debut novel by Sarah Freethy is inspired by an actual porcelain factory in Dachau. In Germany in 1929, two young artists begin a whirlwind romance until Max is arrested and sent to Dachau. Desperate to save her lover, Bettina risks everything to rescue him and escape Germany.
The Novelist from Berlin is inspired by the mysterious true story of Irmgard Keun, a novelist who defied all the rules. In 1920s Germany, even a woman as resourceful and intelligent as Niki Rittenhaus needs alliances in order to survive. She publishes her first novel, The Berlin Woman under a pseudonym to great success. But anonymity cannot last and soon she is in great danger.
This immersive read is a remarkable feat of imagination. At the heart of the novel is the Cathedral and the story of its design and construction in the 13th and 14th centuries in the Rhineland town of Hagenburg unites a vast array of memorable characters whose fortunes are intertwined with the shifting political factions and economic interests vying for supremacy.
One of six sisters, Dortchen Wild lives in the small German kingdom of Hesse-Cassel in the early 19th century. She finds herself irresistibly attracted to the boy next door, the handsome but very poor fairy tale scholar Wilhelm Grimm. As Dortchen tells Wilhelm some of the most powerful and compelling stories which will one day become his and Jacob’s renowned fairy tale collection, their love grows.
In The Magician (2021), Colm Tóibín captures the profound personal conflict of the very public life of German novelist Thomas Mann. When the Great War breaks out in 1914 Thomas Mann, like so many of his fellow countrymen, is fired up with patriotism. But his flawed vision will form the beginning of a dark and complex relationship with his homeland, and see the start of great conflict within his own brilliant and troubled family.
This is a novel of Americans abroad. When a renowned Hollywood director travels to post-Wall Germany to spark his genius, he is unexpectedly reunited with an actress who mysteriously disappeared from the set of his movie thirty years earlier. Masterly and atmospheric, The Weather in Berlin explores the subtleties of artistic inspiration, the nature of memory, and the pull of the past.
Raised in genteel poverty after the World War I, Maria Magdalena Dietrich dreams of a career on the stage. This historical biographical novels follows the beautiful, desirous Marlene from Germany to America and back to Germany.
Want more novels set in Germany ? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.
Guidebooks About Germany
My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on Austria. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.
Tours Around Germany
While you’re reading a novel set in Germany, why not take a tour! This tour from Munich to the iconic castles of Ludwig II, King of Bavaria includes fairytale Neuschwanstein, intimate Linderhof and scenic Hohenschwangau.
Have you read a novel set in Germany, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Check out these posts that provide suggestions for what to read in other European countries:
Connecting with local artists when you travel provides exciting new perspectives on a destination, sparks fascinating conversations, and gives you an opportunity to support local small businesses.
It’s a win-win for sure!
In this post, I delve deep into ways in which you can meaningfully connect with local artists when you travel. This process is often called “experiential travel”.
What is Experiential Travel?
The term “experiential travel” is also sometimes referred to as “immersion travel”. Experiential travel helps people connect directly with the culture and people of the places they visit. Instead of merely ticking off sites, the experiential traveler seeks out meaningful ways to connect with locals by engaging in authentic cultural experiences.
And what better way to connect with locals than to seek out artists?
Read on for my suggestions for how to connect with local artists and, by so doing, immeasurably enrich your travel experience.
Connect Directly with Local Artists
If you’re an art lover, why not set aside some time during your trip to connect directly with one or two artists? Perhaps you already know and admire the work of an artist who lives in an area you’re traveling to. Reach out and connect! Chances are, you’ll get a positive response, and what do you have to lose?
If you don’t already know a local artist, do a Google search to find artists who create the kind of art you like and who may be open to meeting with you and telling you about their work. Not all artists will be interested, but some will!
Connecting with Artists Through Social Media
Another source to find artists is travel and art groups on social media. My husband, Gregg Simpson, who is a painter, has made many connections with local artists through Facebook. Often during our travels, we visit artists and enjoy the opportunity to “talk art”.
If possible, connect with artists with whom you share an interest either in the style of artwork they do or in some other aspect of their background, such as places they’ve traveled, acquaintances or friends you have in common, or organizations you’re both connected with. For example, you may find an artist who has exhibited their work in your home town or is a member of an organization to which you also belong.
Here’s Gregg with Rik Lina, a Dutch artist who lives in Amsterdam and who has become Gregg’s collaborator and friend.
Visiting an Artist
Once an artist has agreed to meet with you and talk about their work, keep your visit quite short. Artists want to be creating art, and while many enjoy talking about their work, they also usually want to get back to work. There also may be the expectation that you’re interested in purchasing a piece of artwork, so keep that in mind.
Purchasing Artwork from a Local Artist
To be honest, this is a bit tricky, which I know from experience, being married to an artist! While many artists love talking about their work, they also need to make a living just like the rest of us. If possible, purchase something during your visit to an artist’s studio–whether on a solo visit or with a group. If a piece of their original art is out of your budget, buy a greeting card or a print as a thank-you for their time. Also, leave your email so you can join their mailing list.
Showing respect for the artist and their time is the right thing to do.
My Meeting with Silvia Salvadori in Arezzo, Italy
One of the most meaningful connections I had with a local artist was when I visited Silvia Salvadori in the charming Tuscan town of Arezzo. Silvia runs the Bottega d’Arte Toscana where she works and sells her art. Located on a tiny side street steps from the Piazza Grande in Arezzo, her studio is a must-visit for the artsy traveler.
Silvia Salvadori and me at the Bottega d’Arte Toscana in Arrezo
Silvia creates stunning works inspired by medieval art and using medieval techniques. Her mission is to preserve these typically Tuscan techniques from the Middle Ages and pass them on to future generations. Read more about my visit with Silvia, and check out the small painting I purchased from her.
Attend Art Openings to Connect with Local Artists
Art openings are always free to whoever is walking by and wants to drop in. Don’t be shy! If you’re wandering around an area and spy an art opening, go check it out. Not only will you likely get a free glass of wine, but you’ll also be able to chat with the artist and connect with other locals. You’ll get to admire the artwork and maybe even find the perfect piece to take home.
The vast majority of people attending an art opening will be locals rather than tourists. Over the years, Gregg and I have met so many interesting people at art openings.
At the opening of Gregg Simpson’s recent exhibition in Madrid
I fondly remember the time the Gregg and I were walking past a gallery in Ravenna that was hosting an art opening. We paused to peer through the window, and moments later, the artist himself bounded out to the sidewalk and invited us in.
Despite our knowing very little Italian, we managed to have several interesting conversations both with the artist and the other attendees. Everyone was so friendly to the Canadese, thanks to our shared interest in art.
A Note About Language
Don’t let the language barrier stop you from dropping into an art opening. Chances are a few people will speak English, and for those who don’t, use a handy translator device or the Google Translate app on your phone.
Go to Multiple Art Openings on “Opening” Nights
In some cities, several galleries in a neighborhood will open late one night a week (often a Thursday or Friday) so that art lovers can hop from opening to opening for a major art fix. Check local listings to find out when galleries open late and when vernissages (French for “openings”) are being held.
Fun Fact: The term vernissage means varnishing and refers to the practice of varnishing a painting just before exhibiting it. Openings are still called vernissages in Paris and many other places in Europe.
Take a Workshop or Class to Connect with Local Artists
Feel like brushing up on your glass-making skills or throwing a pot or two or maybe doing some flower painting? Whatever your interests, you’ll likely find a workshop or class that intrigues you in some of the destinations you’re visiting.
While most of your fellow participants will likely be visitors like you, the teacher will be a local. In addition to teaching you a new skill, they’ll probably tell you about the local art scene, give recommendations about local museums and galleries to visit, and share lots of other information not found in the guidebooks.
If time is limited, choose a half-day or full-day class.
Read my interview with Tanvi Pathare about the flower painting classes she taught at the stunning Villa Lena in Tuscany.
Finding Workshops and Classes
To find local workshops and classes, check with the local arts councils or tourism offices, or do an online search. Some tour companies such as GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com may also offer art workshops. Here are a few options.
You can also sign up for a multi-day course and really immerse yourself in being creative. Or, if you’re an artist already, apply for an artist residency.
Imagine spending a week or two or even longer in a beautiful location with like-minded people all engaged in creative work! To me, it sounds like heaven, which is why I’m always on the lookout for artist residencies that both Gregg and I can enjoy—he to paint and me to write.
You’ll find several artist residencies in Europe, some in beautiful castles and châteaux. Some allow anyone to apply; others have a competitive application process and offer funding support for successful applicants. Here are links to a few options in Europe:
Château d’Orquevaux in Orquevaux, France, provides several options for artists and writers in residence. Orquevaux is located in the Haute-Marne department in the Grand Est region in Northeastern France.
The Bellagio Center Residency Program in Bellagio, Italy, brings together academics, artists, and practitioners from around the world and provides them with a space to unlock their creativity and advance groundbreaking work.
The Künstlerhaus Bethanien in Berlin, Germany, offers an international studio program for emerging artists from around the world.
Artist studio at the Châteaux d’Orquevaux in Orquevaux, France
My Experience at an Artist Residency
A few years ago, Gregg and I spent two months at Rouges en Vert, an artist residency in the little town of Soligny La Trappe deep in the Normandy countryside. The place was still under construction and a bit rough, and we were the only occupants, but we had a productive time! And at the end of the residency, the newly completed art gallery attached to the studios hosted an exhibition of the work Gregg had completed.
The very reasonable cost of the residency included accommodation and the use of a studio for Gregg and an office for me.
If you’re looking for an in-depth artist experience, I highly recommend finding an artist residency in the area you want to visit. It’s experiential travel at its most intense!
Check Out Studio Tours
Many tourist offices in areas where the arts are celebrated maintain lists of artist studios you can visit. Sometimes, you’ll be lucky to arrive in a place at a time when a tour of several studios has been organized.
Where I live on Bowen Island near Vancouver in British Columbia, Canada, the annual Bowen Art Tour takes place in May (May 24-25, 2025). People come from all over the region to visit artists in their studios. We are not the only small community to organize studio tours. With the rise of interest in experiential travel, more and more visitors are interested in organized studio art tours which easily connect them with local artists –and local communities are responding.
Check the tourism websites in the areas you’re visiting to find out the dates of organized studio tours, exhibitions and other special art events. A quick search for “art studios in [location]” is likely to yield useful results.
And be on the lookout for special art events. We’ve frequently come across exhibitions set up in parks and other public areas and involving several artists. Strolling from booth to booth to connect with local artists is a very artsy traveler way to spend an afternoon!
Book a Multi-day Art Tour
An easy way to connect with local artists is to take an art tour led by professional artists and art historians. Depending on your interests, you can find programs suitable for both practicing artists and art lovers.
A good bet is taking a tour offered by Walk the Arts. They offer a range of tours that are suitable for “artists at all levels, art lovers, lifelong learners, and independent travelers seeking unique cultural experiences”. Their mission is to promote the arts and culture through art courses that emphasize content, creativity, and experiential learning.
Sign Up for an Art Walking Tour
A great source for walking tours hosted by locals is Airbnb Experiences. Some of the tours are arts-related, such as this tour by an artist in Hoxton, London, who takes visitors on a walk along art-lined streets to visit local galleries, independent shops, and other hidden gems.
Also check out GuruWalk. Quite a few of their tours are related to art, such as the Afternoon tour of old Parisian galleries in central Paris that is led by a “proactive pensioner” involved in many cultural and social projects in Paris.
You can even find tours that will take you to exhibition openings. When Gregg had an exhibition in Venice a few years ago, a guide showed up with a small group to see the show. It was great to chat with them and see their reaction to the exhibition.
Conclusion
Experiential travel with a focus on the arts has so many benefits. You get to step well off the beaten track to meet local artists and learn about their work. Depending on the experience you choose, you may even get your hands dirty creating your own artwork.
There are lots of possibilities for arts-inspired experiential travel.
When you’re planning your next trip, find opportunities to enrich your experience by connecting with local artists:
Check out the art opening you come across on your way to dinner
Learn new skills in an art workshop
Sign up for a walking tour of local galleries
Make a detour to check out a local art event
Get a list of artist studios from the local tourism office and make a day of touring them.
Have you connected with local artists during your travels? Share your stories and recommendations in the Comments below.
Here are links to posts about some of my favorite small art museums in Europe:
The National Archaeological Museum in Athens is the largest archaeological museum in Greece and a must-see while visiting Athens.
As one of the world’s most important museums devoted to ancient Greek art, the National Archaeological Museum in Athens showcases centuries of ancient Greek history.
You’ll find artifacts from the earliest inhabitants to the Romans displayed in several large rooms. Information about each exhibit is provided in both English and Greek.
Orientation to the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
The National Archeological Museum (#1 on the map below) is about a twenty-minute walk or a short taxi ride from the center of Athens where you’ll likely be spending most of your time. Here’s a map showing the location of the museum along with other Athens landmarks.
Don’t be tempted to skip the National Archaeological Museum in favor of the more modern Acropolis Museum. Both museums offer different takes on the ancient world and both are well worth your time. If possible, schedule your visits on different days so you don’t get over-loaded!
In this post, I feature my favorite pieces from the Prehistoric Antiquities and Sculpture collections. Take your time wandering through the Archaeological Museum. It’s large, but not overwhelming. Many of the rooms are quite spacious and, at least when I was there in September, not crowded.
Prehistoric Antiquities at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
Your first stop after entering the museum is the area featuring unique works of art from the major civilizations that flourished in Greece and the Aegean Sea area from the 7th millennium (that’sa long time ago) to around 1050 BC.
Discover works from the Neolithic period and the Bronze Age. Some of the most significant artifacts come from the royal tombs of Mycenae. You’ll also view evocative Cycladic marble figurines and the astonishingly well-preserved wall paintings from Thera (aka Santorini).
Mycenean Collection
Two of the many show-stoppers in the Mycenean collection are gold masks dating from the 16th century BC. The mask on the left is known as the mask of Agamemnon.
Having already visited Mycenae (see my post on the two days I spent in Nafplio during which I took a semi-private tour to Mycenae), I enjoyed seeing even more of the artifacts from that period. The Mycenaean civilization flourished between 1600 and 1100 BC, and was a wealthy and very influential culture. The beauty and intricacy of the objects, many rendered in gold, is astonishing.
Cycladic Antiquities
I’m glad I chose to visit the Archaeological Museum of Athens at the end of my trip around Greece. I had more context for understanding what I was looking at. During my visit to the Cyclades (Santorini and Naxos), I visited several small museums featuring Cycladic art and already knew a little bit about it.
I especially loved the almost alien-looking marble sculptures with their smooth surfaces and blank eyes. This little guy is playing a double flute and dates from 2800 to 2300 BC.
Antiquities of Thera
Thera is the proper name for Santorini, which was the first stop on my trip to Greece. While there, I visited the archaeological site at Akrotiri (check out my post on Santorini) where many of the artifacts in the National Archeological Museum come from.
Before it was destroyed in a volcanic eruption, Akrotiri included public spaces and three-story houses decorated with wall paintings, many of which have survived in remarkably good condition. Here are two of them. The stylization, color combinations, and sheer delicate beauty of the paintings took my breath away.
Also featured in the collection at the National Archaeological Museum are some amazing pots, my favorites being these two. It’s hard to believe that these were painted in the 16th century BC. They look so modern!
Sculpture Collection at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
The sculpture collection occupies several rooms at the museum and presents the evolution of ancient Greek sculpture from 700 BC to the 5th century AD. The collection includes over 16,000 sculptures from archaeological sites all over Greece, not all of which are on display. Four periods are represented: Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, and Roman.
Archaic Sculptures
My faves are the sculptures from the Archaic Period. While I appreciate the much more realistic sculptures from later periods, there’s something about the stiff, upright, far-seeing Kouros statues that just gets to me. They are over life-size and not realistic, but then they don’t pretend to be. This one is made of Naxian marble and was a votive offering to Poseidon.
Classical Sculptures
The sculptures from the classical period date from the 5th century BC. Democracy had been established in Athens and various military victories at the battles of Marathon and Plataea had resulted in an era of intellectual creativity, material prosperity, and democratic consolidation. Artists flocked to the city, and by the peak of the century, sculptors were drawing their inspiration from the idealized human body.
You’ll find a great many wonderful sculptures from the classical period to check out. One of the most famous is the statue of Poseidon. He dominates one of the rooms with his great set of abs and one arm poised to throw his trident into the waves. This imposing statue was found at the bottom of the sea in 460 BC.
Hellenistic Sculptures
The Hellenistic period runs from the late 4th to the early 1st century BC. Figures were rendered realistically, rather than in the idealized way they tended to be in the Classical period.
I was drawn to the theater masks made from marble. This one dates from the 2nd century BC and is modeled after masks used in comedy.
This grouping from 340 BC is pretty amazing, and one of several similar sculptures that were created as grave reliefs. Look at the details in the hair and beard, and the expressions on the faces!
Roman Sculptures
I got the impression while traveling around Greece that the Greeks are still none too happy that the Romans invaded their country back in the day. Occasionally, a guide would disparagingly note that a particular ruin was Roman, and they didn’t mean it as a compliment. From the 2nd century BC onwards, Greece was gradually conquered by the Romans until their eventual dominance in 31 BC.
Many of the artistic treasures of Greece were taken to Rome, which probably didn’t go over too well with the locals. Eventually, new local workshops were established to satisfy the demand for copies of Classical and Hellenistic works and by the 2nd century AD, Athens was again an artistic center.
Here are two of the many Roman sculptures in the museum. On the left is an intriguing bronze portrait statue of the empress Julia Aquilia Severa (AD 220). She doesn’t look particularly happy. On the right is a rather fine statue of the goddess Hygieia dating from AD 200 that was found at the sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidauros which we visited while staying in Nafplion.
The Jockey
One of the most famous pieces in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens is known as The Artemision Jockey. This bronze statue of a horse and jockey dates from around 140 BC, and was retrieved in pieces between 1928 and 1937 from the sea floor off Cape Artemision. Check out the boy’s expression. He’s so focused on handling his massive steed. This huge piece takes pride of place in the museum and no wonder. It’s truly remarkable.
Other Collections at the Archaeological Museum in Athens
The museum also includes a wonderful collection of metalwork, with its Bronze collection reputed to be one of the finest in the world. In addition, you’ll find an extensive collection of vases, many with the distinctive black and gold coloring.
I never get tired of studying these ancient vases with their intricately drawn scenes. If I ever decide to write a novel set in ancient Greece, I can see myself spending a lot of time studying the imagery on the vases to learn what people wore and how they lived.
Check out this vase depicting a man placing a child on a swing. Sweet or what?
And just in case you haven’t yet slaked your appetite for looking at antiquities, check out the Egyptian and Cypriot collections, both world renowned.
Practical Information
From November 1 to March 31, the National Archaeological Museum in Athens is open from Wednesday to Monday from 8:30 am to 3:30 pm and on Tuesdays from 1:00 pm to 8:00 pm. From April 1 to October 31, the museum is open from Wednesday to Monday from 8:30 am to 8:00 pm and on Tuesdays from 1:00 pm to 8:00 pm. The museum is closed on December 25 – 26, January 1, March 25, May 1 and Orthodox Easter Sunday. Admission costs 12€ from April 1 to October 31 and 6€ from November 1 to March 31.
Where to Stay in Athens
On our recent trip to Athens, we stayed in two places: a holiday apartment for two nights and a hotel for one night. I highly recommend both, which are in neighborhoods convenient for sightseeing in Athens.
Karma Apartments
Steps from the lively Plaka district on a quiet side street, Karma Apartments is a real find in Athens. The one-bedroom apartment on the top floor of a building containing other holiday lets includes a large terrace with a peekaboo view of the Acropolis.
Hotel Lozenge
On our last night in Greece, we stayed at the Hotel Lozenge in the upscale Kolonaki neighbourhood. This is a great choice for a business-style hotel with comfortable rooms, an attached restaurant, and very helpful staff.
Athens is more than its antiquities, but wow, they sure do have incredible antiquities! Take the time to wander through the rooms at the National Archaeological Museum to marvel at the some of the most beautiful sculptures and other objects ever made by human hands. And then when you’re done, go enjoy a tasty Greek meal (every meal I had was tasty!) and relax.
You’re in Athens and life is good. Here are more posts about travels in Greece:
