Experiential Travel: How to Connect With Local Artists

December 2, 2024December 3, 2024Activities, Arts & Culture, Travel Smart Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Connecting with local artists when you travel provides exciting new perspectives on a destination, sparks fascinating conversations, and gives you an opportunity to support local small businesses.

It’s a win-win for sure!

In this post, I delve deep into ways in which you can meaningfully connect with local artists when you travel. This process is often called “experiential travel”.

What is Experiential Travel?

The term “experiential travel” is also sometimes referred to as “immersion travel”. Experiential travel helps people connect directly with the culture and people of the places they visit. Instead of merely ticking off sites, the experiential traveler seeks out meaningful ways to connect with locals by engaging in authentic cultural experiences.

And what better way to connect with locals than to seek out artists?

Read on for my suggestions for how to connect with local artists and, by so doing, immeasurably enrich your travel experience.

Connect Directly with Local Artists

If you’re an art lover, why not set aside some time during your trip to connect directly with one or two artists? Perhaps you already know and admire the work of an artist who lives in an area you’re traveling to. Reach out and connect! Chances are, you’ll get a positive response, and what do you have to lose?

If you don’t already know a local artist, do a Google search to find artists who create the kind of art you like and who may be open to meeting with you and telling you about their work. Not all artists will be interested, but some will!

Another source to find artists is travel and art groups on social media. My husband, Gregg Simpson, who is a painter, has made many connections with local artists through Facebook. Often during our travels, we visit artists and enjoy the opportunity to “talk art”.

If possible, connect with artists with whom you share an interest either in the style of artwork they do or in some other aspect of their background, such as places they’ve traveled, acquaintances or friends you have in common, or organizations you’re both connected with. For example, you may find an artist who has exhibited their work in your home town or is a member of an organization to which you also belong.

Here’s Gregg with Rik Lina, a Dutch artist who lives in Amsterdam and who has become Gregg’s collaborator and friend.

Visiting an Artist

Once an artist has agreed to meet with you and talk about their work, keep your visit quite short. Artists want to be creating art, and while many enjoy talking about their work, they also usually want to get back to work. There also may be the expectation that you’re interested in purchasing a piece of artwork, so keep that in mind.

Purchasing Artwork from a Local Artist

To be honest, this is a bit tricky, which I know from experience, being married to an artist! While many artists love talking about their work, they also need to make a living just like the rest of us. If possible, purchase something during your visit to an artist’s studio–whether on a solo visit or with a group. If a piece of their original art is out of your budget, buy a greeting card or a print as a thank-you for their time. Also, leave your email so you can join their mailing list.

Showing respect for the artist and their time is the right thing to do.

My Meeting with Silvia Salvadori in Arezzo, Italy

One of the most meaningful connections I had with a local artist was when I visited Silvia Salvadori in the charming Tuscan town of Arezzo. Silvia runs the Bottega d’Arte Toscana where she works and sells her art. Located on a tiny side street steps from the Piazza Grande in Arezzo, her studio is a must-visit for the artsy traveler.

Silvia Salvadori, an artist in Arezzo with author Carol Cram — Silvia Salvadori and me at the Bottega d’Arte Toscana in Arrezo

Silvia creates stunning works inspired by medieval art and using medieval techniques. Her mission is to preserve these typically Tuscan techniques from the Middle Ages and pass them on to future generations. Read more about my visit with Silvia, and check out the small painting I purchased from her.

Attend Art Openings to Connect with Local Artists

Art openings are always free to whoever is walking by and wants to drop in. Don’t be shy! If you’re wandering around an area and spy an art opening, go check it out. Not only will you likely get a free glass of wine, but you’ll also be able to chat with the artist and connect with other locals. You’ll get to admire the artwork and maybe even find the perfect piece to take home.

The vast majority of people attending an art opening will be locals rather than tourists. Over the years, Gregg and I have met so many interesting people at art openings.

Art gallery opening showing people mingling and looking at art — At the opening of Gregg Simpson’s recent exhibition in Madrid

I fondly remember the time the Gregg and I were walking past a gallery in Ravenna that was hosting an art opening. We paused to peer through the window, and moments later, the artist himself bounded out to the sidewalk and invited us in.

Despite our knowing very little Italian, we managed to have several interesting conversations both with the artist and the other attendees. Everyone was so friendly to the Canadese, thanks to our shared interest in art.

A Note About Language

Don’t let the language barrier stop you from dropping into an art opening. Chances are a few people will speak English, and for those who don’t, use a handy translator device (or the Google Translate app on your phone). Here’s the translator I carry with me when I’m traveling.

Go to Multiple Art Openings on “Opening” Nights

In some cities, several galleries in a neighborhood will open late one night a week (often a Thursday or Friday) so that art lovers can hop from opening to opening for a major art fix. Check local listings to find out when galleries open late and when vernissages (French for “openings”) are being held.

Fun Fact: The term vernissage means varnishing and refers to the practice of varnishing a painting just before exhibiting it. Openings are still called vernissages in Paris and many other places in Europe.

Take a Workshop or Class to Connect with Local Artists

Feel like brushing up on your glass-making skills or throwing a pot or two or maybe doing some flower painting? Whatever your interests, you’ll likely find a workshop or class that intrigues you in some of the destinations you’re visiting.

While most of your fellow participants will likely be visitors like you, the teacher will be a local. In addition to teaching you a new skill, they’ll probably tell you about the local art scene, give recommendations about local museums and galleries to visit, and share lots of other information not found in the guidebooks.

If time is limited, choose a half-day or full-day class.

Read my interview with Tanvi Pathare about the flower painting classes she taught at the stunning Villa Lena in Tuscany.

Finding Workshops and Classes

To find local workshops and classes, check with the local arts councils or tourism offices, or do an online search. Some tour companies such as GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com may also offer art workshops. Here are a few options.

Attend an Artist Residency

You can also sign up for a multi-day course and really immerse yourself in being creative. Or, if you’re an artist already, apply for an artist residency.

Imagine spending a week or two or even longer in a beautiful location with like-minded people all engaged in creative work! To me, it sounds like heaven, which is why I’m always on the lookout for artist residencies that both Gregg and I can enjoy—he to paint and me to write.

You’ll find several artist residencies in Europe, some in beautiful castles and châteaux. Some allow anyone to apply; others have a competitive application process and offer funding support for successful applicants. Here are links to a few options in Europe:

Château d’Orquevaux in Orquevaux, France, provides several options for artists and writers in residence. Orquevaux is located in the Haute-Marne department in the Grand Est region in Northeastern France.
The Bellagio Center Residency Program in Bellagio, Italy, brings together academics, artists, and practitioners from around the world and provides them with a space to unlock their creativity and advance groundbreaking work.
The Künstlerhaus Bethanien in Berlin, Germany, offers an international studio program for emerging artists from around the world.

Artist studio at the Châteaux d’Orquevaux in Orquevaux, France

My Experience at an Artist Residency

A few years ago, Gregg and I spent two months at Rouges en Vert, an artist residency in the little town of Soligny La Trappe deep in the Normandy countryside. The place was still under construction and a bit rough, and we were the only occupants, but we had a productive time! And at the end of the residency, the newly completed art gallery attached to the studios hosted an exhibition of the work Gregg had completed.

The very reasonable cost of the residency included accommodation and the use of a studio for Gregg and an office for me.

If you’re looking for an in-depth artist experience, I highly recommend finding an artist residency in the area you want to visit. It’s experiential travel at its most intense!

Check Out Studio Tours

Many tourist offices in areas where the arts are celebrated maintain lists of artist studios you can visit. Sometimes, you’ll be lucky to arrive in a place at a time when a tour of several studios has been organized.

Where I live on Bowen Island near Vancouver in British Columbia, Canada, the annual Bowen Art Tour takes place in May (May 24-25, 2025). People come from all over the region to visit artists in their studios. We are not the only small community to organize studio tours. With the rise of interest in experiential travel, more and more visitors are interested in organized studio art tours which easily connect them with local artists –and local communities are responding.

Check the tourism websites in the areas you’re visiting to find out the dates of organized studio tours, exhibitions and other special art events. A quick search for “art studios in [location]” is likely to yield useful results.

And be on the lookout for special art events. We’ve frequently come across exhibitions set up in parks and other public areas and involving several artists. Strolling from booth to booth to connect with local artists is a very artsy traveler way to spend an afternoon!

Book a Multi-day Art Tour

An easy way to connect with local artists is to take an art tour led by professional artists and art historians. Depending on your interests, you can find programs suitable for both practicing artists and art lovers.

A good bet is taking a tour offered by Walk the Arts. They offer a range of tours that are suitable for “artists at all levels, art lovers, lifelong learners, and independent travelers seeking unique cultural experiences”. Their mission is to promote the arts and culture through art courses that emphasize content, creativity, and experiential learning.

A great source for walking tours hosted by locals is Airbnb Experiences. Some of the tours are arts-related, such as this tour by an artist in Hoxton, London, who takes visitors on a walk along art-lined streets to visit local galleries, independent shops, and other hidden gems.

Also check out GuruWalk. Quite a few of their tours are related to art, such as the Afternoon tour of old Parisian galleries in central Paris that is led by a “proactive pensioner” involved in many cultural and social projects in Paris.

You can even find tours that will take you to exhibition openings. When Gregg had an exhibition in Venice a few years ago, a guide showed up with a small group to see the show. It was great to chat with them and see their reaction to the exhibition.

Conclusion

Experiential travel with a focus on the arts has so many benefits. You get to step well off the beaten track to meet local artists and learn about their work. Depending on the experience you choose, you may even get your hands dirty creating your own artwork.

There are lots of possibilities for arts-inspired experiential travel.

When you’re planning your next trip, find opportunities to enrich your experience by connecting with local artists:

Check out the art opening you come across on your way to dinner
Learn new skills in an art workshop
Sign up for a walking tour of local galleries
Make a detour to check out a local art event
Get a list of artist studios from the local tourism office and make a day of touring them.

Have you connected with local artists during your travels? Share your stories and recommendations in the Comments below.

Here are links to posts about some of my favorite small art museums in Europe:

Explore Greek Cuisine in a Savor Nafplio Cooking Class

October 23, 2024December 19, 2024Activities, Arts & Culture, Destinations, Greece Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on December 19th, 2024 at 09:52 pm

Have your ever wanted to learn the secrets of Greek cooking? If so, then consider adding a cooking class to your Greek travel itinerary.

When you travel in Greece, you’ll find out very quickly that Greek food is drop-dead amazing and consistently tastier than any food I’ve eaten anywhere.

Sure, I’ve had great meals in France, Italy, Spain, and even North America, but Greece wins hands down when it comes to consistency, taste, and freshness.

A collage of four dishes from a cooking class in Nafplio, including a salad, zucchini roll, lamb with potatoes, and orange pie with ice cream, with a red background and text "Cooking Class in Nafplio."

To learn why Greek food is so great–and more importantly, how to prepare it myself, my daughter Julia and I decide take a cooking class at Savor Nafplio Cooking while staying in lovely little Nafplio.

In the three-hour class, we learn how to prepare Greek dishes and then enjoy a five-course meal complete with wine pairings.

Arrival at Savor Nafplio Cooking Class

We arrive at 5 pm to discover that we are the only two participants. Chef Kostas is a wonderful host and teacher. He keeps us enthralled and engaged throughout the class.

I’ve taken several cooking classes while traveling in Europe, and the class at Savor Nafplio Cooking ranks as one of the best.

Chef Kostas starts the evening by sharing the menu and telling us what to expect. We then dive right into work.

Main Course: Lamb Bogana

The main course of the four-course meal is lamb and potatoes. Since both must cook for at least two hours, we start by preparing the lamb followed by the potatoes. Kostas shows me how to cut slits in the lamb and insert small slivers of garlic, along with sprinklings of salt and pepper. Meanwhile, Julia is put to work making the paste to rub over the lamb.

I also peel potatoes to layer under the lamb. While we work, Kostas provides us with a wealth of useful tips and information about what we are doing—and why.

Appetizer: Beef-Stuffed Zucchini

Once the lamb and potatoes are in the oven, we set to work making the beef-stuffed zucchini. Julia and I learn how to core a zucchini (harder than it looks!), and then we prepare the meat filling. We mix fesh herbs, an egg, plenty of olive oil, and green onions with ground beef and then stuff the mixture into the hollowed-out zucchinis.

Kostas nestles three stuffed zucchinis into a pan half-filled with water. Later, we’ll smother them in a delectable egg and lemon sauce.

Tomato Salad with Cucumber Soup

Kostas teaches us how to prepare cucumbers for pureeing into a refreshing green soup. He uses small cucumbers which he says are less bitter. To ensure the soup is a pleasing color of green, but not too bitter, he instructs me to peel the cucumber in stripes. Cool tip.

Later, he serves the cucumber soup under a mound of cut up Greek salad fixings–tomatoes, onions, olives, capers and some crunchy bread bits all topped with fresh feta cheese. Delicious!

Orange Pie

Traditional Greek orange pie is what I’d call cake—a light, orange-flavored sponge soaked in an orange syrup. Kostas demonstrates how to prepare and measure the many ingredients required for the pie.

One of my jobs is to cut a roll of filo pastry into thin ribbons and then mix them with eggs and fresh orange juice. The filo is a substitute for flour. Its texture will give the pie a lighter texture than it would if made with flour. Interesting idea!

Dining at Savor Nafplio

With all the food prepared, the dining and wine tasting begins. Kostas brings out a small loaf of warm sourdough bread for us to dip in local olive oil flavored with local sea salt. The bread is so good that I eat too much of it and then later have trouble finishing all my dinner.

Kostas pairs five wines with the various courses—from a light white to an after-dinner dessert wine. Kostas explains each wine—its origins in Greece and what to expect while tasting. I thoroughly enjoy tasting the wine and sampling the dinner courses.

Here are pictures of the meal we enjoyed at Savor Nafplio Cooking.

A bottle of Zacharias Sklava white wine with a yellow cap and white label on a wooden table, with kitchen utensils and containers in the background. — One of the five local white wines we sampled

A plate of braised lamb with roasted potatoes, drizzled with a yellow sauce, alongside cutlery and a glass of wine on a wooden table. — One of the five local white wines we sampled

Booking a Class at Savor Nafplio Cooking

Kostas varies the menu depending on the preferences of the guests. We’d specified no fish or shellfish so they weren’t on the menu. He also looks at what’s fresh in the local market and consults his own mood. The menu we enjoyed may not be the menu a guest would enjoy on another night. I am, however, confident that whatever the menu, the cooking experience will be first-rate.

A smiling man in a black chef's jacket labeled "Savor" stands next to a woman in a patterned sleeveless top, both posing in front of a wooden world map on the wall. — Carol Cram with Chef Kostas at Savor Nafplio Cooking Class

If you’re visiting Nafplio, I recommend finding three hours in your schedule to take a cooking class and enjoy a meal and wine pairings at Savor Nafplio Cooking. You get excellent value for the money and learn new cooking tips.

Cooking Classes in Greece

Here are some GetYourGuide cooking classes available in Greece:

Conclusion

Have you taken a cooking class while traveling? Share your recommendations in the Comments below. Here are more posts about cooking classes I’ve taken when traveling.

Attend a Residential Writers’ Retreat and Set Fire to Your Creativity

May 28, 2024December 19, 2024Activities, Arts & Culture, Destinations, England Artsy Traveler 2 Comments

Last updated on December 19th, 2024 at 09:29 pm

Have you ever considered going on a writers’ retreat? If you’re a writer—or want to be a writer—the top need on your writer’s wish list is very likely time. Without time, you can’t write. Without time, you can’t improve. When you give yourself the gift of time to think and create, you give yourself the gift of productivity.

In May 2024, I gave myself the gift of time by attending a week-long writers’ retreat in North Yorkshire. Called, fittingly, The Writers’ Retreat, the venue and program is the passion project of writer Jan Birley. Participants gather in a renovated 200-year-old pub in the tiny, picture-perfect Yorkshire village of Beal to write their hearts out in a peaceful and supportive environment.

A building labeled “The Retreat” with a white facade and dark roof tiles, advertised as a “Residential Writers’ Retreat in Yorkshire” by ArtsyTraveler.com.

About The Writers’ Retreat

The Writers’ Retreat runs retreats from one day to six days in duration, along with special events throughout the year. Check out their website.

At The Writers’ Retreat, you are provided with all your meals (even wine with dinner!) and can participate in a series of optional writing workshops and one-to-one mentoring sessions with a writing professional. Jan or her husband Tony even collects you from the local train station and takes you back again at the end of the retreat.

When you’re not eating, sleeping, or being mentored, you are free to write in any number of comfortable locations throughout the building—from the stylishly decorated bedrooms all equipped with writing desks, to tables and squishy sofas scattered throughout several lounges, to an outdoor terrace for days when the sun shines.

A lounge area with a wicker chair, a velvet sofa, a wooden coffee table, and white curtains, decorated in a rustic style with exposed brick and stone walls.

I chose the six-day retreat because I knew from experience that five full days of dedicated writing time was optimum for me to make significant progress on my WIP (Work In Progress).

Spoiler Alert: It worked and it was fabulous!

Here’s my account of the six days.

Day 1: Monday Arrival

The start date of my retreat in May 2024 corresponded with the last day of a five-week trip around Europe with my husband, artist Gregg Simpson. The purpose of our trip was to attend several exhibitions of his paintings in Italy and for me to research locations and get inspiration for new novels.

I discovered The Writers’ Retreat after I’d booked my European trip. Surely it was a sign from the universe that I had to attend when I found out that the dates aligned with the conclusion of my trip–and that there was just one spot left. I immediately rejigged my travel arrangements. My husband flew home from Paris while I flew to Manchester, took a train to Selby in North Yorkshire, and was picked up and brought to the retreat in the sweet little village of Beal.

Here’s my bedroom and the view from my writing table that would inspire for me six days.

A cozy bedroom with a large bed covered in a quilted gray blanket, decorative pillows, a small side table, and two windows showing rooftops outside.

A view from a bedroom window showing a row of houses with tiled roofs, green trees, and a residential street under a cloudy sky.

Meeting My Fellow Writers

After getting settled in my room overlooking a pair of quaint houses with green and pleasant parkland beyond, I meet Jan and the five other writers with whom I’ll be sharing my week. Jan introduces herself and talks about what to expect for the week, and then we all share why we’ve chosen the retreat.

We are an eclectic lot consisting of academics, non-fiction writers, experienced novelists, and short-story writers. Here are brief bios supplied by some of the participants.

Sue

Sue is a Professor from the University of Edinburgh, specialising in developmental psychology. During the retreat, she worked on wrapping up a series of writing projects including a grant proposal, a couple of journal articles, an editorial and the introduction to a book about neurodiversity for teachers. Neurodiversity is gaining ground as a way to understand important aspects of how pupils learn and generally experience school. But lots of teachers aren’t clear what this model means for them and why it is supposed to be helpful to pupils. The book will have chapters written by a neurodiverse group of academics and educators with the aim of helping teachers embed this new theory into their classroom practice.

JoJo Stone

JoJo is a passionate new writer based in the picturesque landscapes of the U.K. From a young age, JoJo discovered a deep connection with the writing world and began crafting poetry that resonates with emotions. JoJo has published three novels and at the retreat worked on her fourth novel and some short stories. Check out her great website.

Ann

When Ann retired, she dipped her toe into various writing groups and also attended a short evening course in Creative Writing at her local university, all of which encouraged her to ‘get writing.’ She’s completed a number of short stories, some of which she intends to publish online. At The Writers’ Retreat in Yorkshire, she revved up her writing engines and hopes to publish her first novel in 2025.

Two writers from the United States also joined us to contribute their enthusiasm and good vibes.

First Evening

After introductions (and a nice glass of wine), we enjoy our first dinner together in the large dining room. Over the course of the week, the dining room becomes the hub for conversation, lots of laughter, food, workshop sessions, and a constant supply of coffee, tea, and cold drinks to sustain us when we aren’t being fed.

My Project for the Week

I retire to my room and get busy working on my project for the week—finishing my sixth novel. Called The Merchant of Siena, the novel follows headstrong Bianca as she learns how to survive and thrive in late 14th century Siena–a time fraught with plagues, famines, and vicious attacks by bands of roving mercenaries. Bianca’s journey from idealistic youth to one of the city’s richest merchants is a rags-to- riches story with a twist.

The first three chapters of The Merchant of Siena were recently shortlisted in the Ancient to 16^th Century category for the Historical Novel Society’s First Chapters competition. This positive feedback has motivated me to finally finish the novel.

A certificate from the Historical Novel Society congratulating "The Merchant of Siena" by Carol M. Cram for making the 2024 First Chapters Competition shortlist in the Ancient to 16th Century category.

Day 2: Tuesday

Our first full day of writing stretches before me with delicious emptiness full of possibilities. Like everyone, I’m up early and down to the dining room at 8 am for a full English breakfast. I can’t manage the full meal deal and opt for two poached eggs and bacon—my go-to for the rest of the week. Cereals, yogurt, fruit, and juices are also available. But in case you’re interested, here’s a photo of another participant’s full English breakfast! That’s a hearty breakfast for sure!

A full English breakfast on a white plate, including fried eggs, bacon, sausages, baked beans, hash browns, grilled tomatoes, and mushrooms.

After a productive morning, we all gather for lunch and are introduced to Clare Bamber, our mentor/workshop leader for the week. Thanks to Clare, my experience at The Writers’ Retreat is about to go second level. My mentorship sessions with her along with the fun writing workshops she facilitates make my week very special and fulfilling.

Meet Clare Bamber – Mentor Extraordinaire

Clare Bamber is truly a delight. She’s been a tutor and mentor in Creative Writing since 2020 and is passionate about encouraging writers of all levels to explore the craft in a supported, nonjudgmental environment. She states: “Supporting writers at The Writers’ Retreat UK this week has been so much fun. There has been so much diversity in the subject matter, but it’s great to see everyone being supportive of each other in their projects. What a wonderful bunch of people to have spent time with! I crossed the finish line of drafting my own novel whilst on a retreat here, so I understand the value of giving ourselves the space to write.”

A woman smiling and walking along a grassy path near a riverbank, wearing red pants, a zebra-patterned shirt, and a red cardigan, with cloudy skies in the background.

Where to Find Clare Bamber

You can visit Clare’s website to check out her services for writers or visit her on Facebook.

Workshop: Character Creation

Clare’s first writing workshop is on character creation. The four of us most interested in writing fiction meet with Clare to learn valuable techniques for creating memorable characters. I very much enjoy the exercise that she leads us through. A highlight is listening to what everyone else writes. The level of creativity is astonishing!

Country Walks

After the workshop and on most days during the week, I slip out for a country walk. The village of Beal is situated in the middle of farmland with access to a public footpath bordering the River Aire. I have a grand old time snapping photos of the Constable-like skies, the sheep with their gamboling lambs, and a contingent of curious cows.

A grassy riverbank with multiple sheep and lambs grazing in front of houses with tiled roofs and a sign reading “The Retreat.” — Lambs in front of The Retreat

A tranquil river with reflections of the cloudy sky, surrounded by green fields and trees under a soft overcast sky. — Lambs in front of The Retreat

Day 3: Wednesday

My writing is starting to click into high gear. I spend my mentorship session with Clare hashing out a plot problem. Together, we come up with some excellent strategies. I’m feeling energized and exhilarated. Writing retreats rock!

I skip the workshop (it was on point of view and I’m sure was wonderful!) only because I’m on a roll and want to get a few more chapters under my belt before dinner.

A woman with short gray hair in a purple cardigan, smiling while sitting on a couch and typing on a laptop. The setting is a cozy room with a coffee table and a phone nearby.

At 5, I take off for the only local pub in the village to sip some wine and continue writing before being joined at 6:30 by the rest of the group for a pub dinner. We continue getting to know each other amid much laughter as well as interact with the friendly pub staff.

Some of the Participants Hard at Work

So many work spaces are provided for participants at The Writers’ Retreat. I chose mostly to work in my room because I liked the view. Most of the others spread out among the many areas on the main floor of the converted pub.

A person with long white hair wearing glasses and a patterned sweater, reading a book at a desk filled with papers, a laptop, a mug, and office supplies.

A person with curly red hair and glasses lounging on a velvet couch, typing on a laptop. A decorative pillow supports the laptop, and a vase of flowers and a window with drapes are in the background.

Day 4: Thursday

Another mentorship meeting with Clare builds on my progress. She provides excellent and useful feedback about The Merchant of Siena. I’m finally starting to feel like this novel—which I’ve been writing on and off for about five years—is on its way to being completed.

Workshop: Writing Descriptions

In the afternoon, Clare facilitates a workshop on writing good descriptions. Thanks to her advice and prompts, each of us produces and reads two compelling pieces.

Day 5: Friday

Today, I share with Clare the first three chapters of Mill Song, my recently completed fifth novel. As I’ve come to expect from Clare, she provides me with thoughtful and useful feedback. I’m feeling more excited now about getting Mill Song out to the world.

Workshop: Writing Emotion

Our afternoon workshop is on how to effectively write emotion (no easy task). To my delight, I follow Clare’s prompts and end up writing a piece that I’ll be including in The Merchant of Siena. Talk about a win-win!

Day 6: Saturday

After a series of cloudy, wet days, the sun finally emerges on our last full day at The Writers’ Retreat. After five full days of solid writing, I start the final day feeling relaxed and much more confident in my ability to complete and be proud of The Merchant of Siena. I still have a few months worth of work to do before it’s ready to send to an editor, but that’s okay. I’m feeling motivated and confident—and that’s worth a lot!

After lunch, a few of us read a piece of our writing aloud to the group. I share a passage from The Merchant of Siena and am gratified by the positive response. One of our group is leaving, so after the readings, we troop out to the parking lot for a group photo.

A group of eight people smiling for a photo outside a building with a wooden picnic table in front. They are standing or sitting in front of a white building with curtains in the windows, dressed in casual clothing, with a mix of ages and genders. — The writers at The Writers’ Retreat with wonderful staff member Shane

Workshop: Writing Dialogue

Our final workshop with Clare is on how to write good dialogue (another challenging and useful topic). She has a knack for giving us just the right prompts to stimulate the creative juices. I’m amazed at the work each of us produces in a very short time. The creative process really is miraculous.

At the end of the day, we all retire to the pub for a farewell drink and dinner. I go to bed feeling tired but very satisfied with my progress over the week.

Should You Go On A Writers’ Retreat?

In a word, yes. No matter where you are on your writing journey, a writing retreat will help you. Having the time and mental space to do nothing but write and be creative is tremendously therapeutic. No cooking, no cleaning, no kids, no spouses, no day job—just you and your pen or laptop and the infinite possibilities roaming around your head waiting to be led to the light of day.

What could be better than that?

Conclusion

In March 2024, I went on another, very different, writers’ retreat with three other historical novelists. This one was based in sunny and warm Florida and was just as wonderful. Fellow historical novelist and retreatee Mary Tod wrote an interesting blog post about our experience in Florida.

Writers Retreat: Fun, Productive, Informative

Have you ever been on a writers’ retreat? Share your experience in the comments below.

Here are some literary-themed posts on Artsy Traveler:

How Not to Tour the Colosseum in Rome

May 5, 2024December 17, 2024Activities, Arts & Culture, Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on December 17th, 2024 at 12:40 am

You’ve arrived in Rome! Maybe, you’ve been lucky enough to have your taxi whisk you past the Colosseum on your way to your accommodations.

There it is! It’s huge! OMG!

We’re in the Eternal City!

This is SO cool!

The upper facade of the Colosseum with arches and weathered stone against a bright blue sky. Overlaid text reads, “How Not to Tour the Colosseum in Rome,” with the website "artsytraveler.com" at the bottom.

Yes, the Colosseum in Rome is impressive and iconic. It’s the symbol of Rome and one of the seven wonders of the world. Millions of visitors come from all over the globe to see it. They snap selfies in front of it, gaze out over its ruined amphitheater, and stand in line-ups for hours.

My question is–should you bother? My answer? It depends!

My Rome Colosseum History

Since my first visit to Rome in 1974, I’ve popped into the Colosseum four times. Three of those visits were great.

The most recent one was a nightmare.

The Colosseum itself hasn’t changed much apart from some restoration work over the decades. It’s still a massive ruin that, while impressive, bears little similarity to the magnificent original built over two thousand years ago.

Earthquakes, looting, and the general wear and tear of two millennia, not to mention the shuffling feet of millions and millions of visitors have taken their toll.

What has changed for visitors in recent years is just how incredibly crowded the Colosseum has become. The Colosseum ranks as the number one tourist attraction in Rome. Even St. Peter’s and the Vatican aren’t that crowded (although they are pretty much overrun).

Although I have no way of knowing for sure, I get the feeling during my most recent visit to the Colosseum that many people are ticking it off their must-see list, whether they are enjoying it or not. What a shame! Rome is so much more fabulous than the Colosseum.

The Colosseum is amazing, for sure. But is it worth your time to go inside when you can snap a photo like the one below with zero effort?

Exterior of the Colosseum in Rome showing columns and blue sky.

Should You Visit Rome and Not Go to the Colosseum?

Gasp! Should you do it? If you want to enjoy this marvelous city and you’re visiting between April to October, then I say yes, give the Colosseum a miss. Also forget the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel. You might consider visiting St. Peter’s since in my experience, the line moves fairly briskly and at least you’re outdoors for most of the wait.

But back to the Colosseum. In this post, I’ll describe my latest visit. You can then decide for yourself if it’s worth several hours of your precious sightseeing time. Or, would you be better off skipping the crowds and heading for some of the city’s quieter and infinitely more lovely sights such as the cosy Keats-Shelley House near the Spanish Steps?

Signing Up for a Colosseum Tour: Smart Idea or ?

As a savvy traveler (or at least so I like to think!), I know that the early visitor beats the crowds. The two-hour guided tour of the Colosseum I sign up for starts at 8 am and guarantees first entry into the site.

I imagine wandering through deserted passageways, the morning sun slanting pleasingly across the ancient ruins. The only sounds are the murmurs of the guide, a few tweeting birds, and perhaps the whispers of long-gone gladiators wafting up from the cells beneath the arena.

I mean, who starts sightseeing so early in the morning? For sure, I’ll have the place to myself along with a handful of other intrepid travelers willing to sign up for an early morning tour.

Finding the Tour

Promptly at 7:50 am, I arrive at the meeting point across the street from one of the entrances to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. A small crowd of at least fifty people all proffering cell phones is my clue that I’m in the right place. I wait patiently for the beleaguered guide to check my phone, declare me valid, and press a small white sticker onto my chest. It’s now about 8:10 am, so obviously the tour doesn’t actually start at 8 am.

While waiting, I snap a photo of the Roman Forum across the street. It looks splendid in the early morning sun of one of the first really warm days I’ve experienced in Rome on my current trip in early May.

A daytime view of the Roman Forum, showing historic stone buildings, a bell tower, and a dome against a blue sky. Greenery and trees surround the ancient structures, with traffic lights in the foreground.

Waiting to Enter the Colosseum

Several minutes later, we are ushered across the road to the entrance gate and told that the ticket takers open at 8:30 and that we will be first! (said with enthusiasm, like it is a rare treat and not what we’ve signed up for).

Ticket takers? I’d neglected to read the fine print of the tour. The cost does not include the cost of entry into the archaeological site which includes the Forum and Palatine Hill in addition to the Colosseum.

A word of warning: Check what’s included in your tour and opt for a tour that includes the entry cost so the guide already has your tickets.

Lesson learned, I prepare to wait in line (at least I am close to the front) until the ticket booths open at 8:30–another fifteen minutes. After all, the guide has assured us that we’ll be first into the Colosseum. Isn’t that worth waiting a few extra minutes for?

Remember the tweeting birds, the silence of the ancient stones, the gladiator ghosts reminiscing about gladiator fights, the glorious isolation!

Buying a Ticket to the Colosseum

At precisely 8:40 am, the ticket takers open the two wickets and the first people in line eagerly step forward to buy their tickets. Yahoo! The line will surely go quickly and I’ll be inside the Colosseum communing with history and getting tons of inspiration for my next novel in no time flat.

8:50 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth.

9:00 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth. Oh wait! One of the groups has left and another couple has stepped forward. But at the other booth, the same four people are still talking with the attendant. What can they be talking about? What’s the holdup? Are they sharing recipes? Have they found a long-lost cousin? What gives?

The guide comes by and tells us to have our passports out and ready to show the ticket takers. What? I don’t have my passport with me although fortunately I do have my driver’s license. I ask the guide if that will do. Yes. Phew.

Another five minutes goes by and the first group of four finally leaves the booth. They are looking weary but relieved. I’d love to ask them what went down, but of course I don’t dare risk losing my place in line.

The next group steps forward. I take to counting to gauge how long they stay at the booth. Sixty seconds, another sixty, another sixty…five minutes and they’re done. Another ten minutes goes by during which time a few more groups get to the booth and then several minutes later step away, tickets in hand. Their per wait time is marginally decreasing.

Progress is being made.

My Turn Getting Tickets for the Colosseum

Finally, it’s my turn. I’m about to find out why it takes almost five minutes to process each person in a line that is now stretching back to the road and a considerable way along it. Did all these people book a group tour that required them to buy tickets?

I find out later that yes, they are all group tour people. The “regular” people who just want a ticket to the Colosseum without a tour buy their tickets at another booth. I’ll soon discover that many, many hundreds of them get inside the Colosseum long before we arrive.

So much for us being first!

Anyway, I’m at the booth.

“One for the Colosseum, per favore.”

“One?”

“Si.”

The attendant shakes her head as if to say what kind of a loser visits the Colosseum all by themselves first thing in the morning? I don’t share that my husband has elected to do the smart thing and spend a leisurely morning enjoying cappuccino and a walk about the chic ‘hood we’re staying in up near the Piazza del Popolo.

Instead, I push my driver’s license under the glass barrier and she places it in front of her keyboard. Then, with two stiff fingers, she laboriously starts to type. No wonder this whole process is taking forever! She has to physically enter the ID for every single person in line and she can’t touch type.

Oh dear.

After about two minutes (possibly a record), she hands me back my driver’s license, I pay with my credit card, and then I go stand with my fellow line waiters for the tour to begin.

It’s now 9:30 am.

Starting the Tour of the Colosseum–Almost

Promptly at 9:45 am, only 1 hour and 45 minutes past the tour start time, our guide leads those of us who have Colosseum tickets marked 9:15 am to another loooooong line. This is the line for all the Skip-the-Line group tours. As I said, it’s long.

Security Line at the Colosseum

We wait for another twenty minutes while the guide finally explains why progress that morning has been unusually slow. I’m at least heartened to find out that the current process is not normal. Apparently, there was a security incident (bomb scare?) a few days earlier, and since May 1 (it’s May 3^rd), new procedures using a new security firm are being instituted.

Unfortunately, thorough testing is lacking so chaos reigns as the Colosseum ticket takers are obliged to enter everyone’s ID information into the computer and new security personnel are stationed at the entrances to the actual Colosseum to again check IDs and tickets.

Entering the Colosseum

We finally reach the front of the Skip-the-Line group tour line and enter the outer perimeter of the Colosseum.

It’s big. Really big—much bigger than it looks from the road with massive columns that soar way up into the blue Roman sky. Inside, the arches are truly impressive. Roman engineering is a marvel.

A long, dimly lit hallway inside the Colosseum, featuring massive stone columns and arches. Tourists walk through the corridor, which captures the grandeur and history of the ancient structure.

The guide starts her spiel while leading us to yet another line. She tells us that construction of the Colosseum began between 70 and 72 CE during the reign of the Emperor Vespasian. Before then, the area had been a lake on the grounds of Nero’s Domus Aurea (golden house).

Nero was not popular, to say the least, and so the decision to replace his private lake with a public amphitheater hosting thousands of locals was a great way to erase him from recent history.

The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with Euros so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.

Not Everyone Loves Rome

The guide takes a break from her history lesson and cheerfully asks two people in the group where they are from. They reply that they are from Austria and that never again will they come to Rome because it is horrible and dirty. I am offended on behalf of both myself and the guide who smiles gamely but I can see is a trifle nonplussed. I mean, rude much? Apparently, the Austrians booked into a hotel that is less than stellar and that has colored their whole opinion of one of my favorite cities in the world.

I want to tell them that the place we’re staying in is absolutely wonderful—clean, spacious and in an excellent location. Here’s the link to our serviced apartment called Viam 6B. It truly is one of the best places we’ve stayed in Rome, ever.

Perhaps the Austrians decided to cheap out. Rome is a fabulous place to visit, but accommodations are not budget friendly. But then you can say that about just about every destination in Europe in recent years. The days of Europe on $5 a day (or even $100 or $200 a day) belong to the middle of the last century.

The guide decides not to ask the rest of the group about their experience. The mood is already a bit iffy considering we’ve all stood in lines for more than two hours for our first-into-the-Colosseum tour and haven’t actually started touring the Colosseum. We are in it, but only just.

The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with coins so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.

Climbing to the Top of the Colosseum

And then, finally, we’re in and the tour officially begins. The guide talks to us for quite a while about the history of the Colosseum and then invites us to trudge up three flights of very steep steps to look out over the arena.

We emerge into a surging Sargasso Sea of visitors all packed cheek by jowl along the railing much like the spectators must have done during the Colosseum’s heyday. Everyone’s snapping selfies (something that wasn’t done during the days of the Roman empire) and I suppose communing with their inner gladiator.

We walk and walk and walk some more around the perimeter to a slightly less crowded stretch of railing, and get our one minute of time to snap pics of the ancient amphitheater.

A panoramic view of the Colosseum’s interior, showcasing tiered seating, arches, and the underground chambers. Crowds of tourists walk along designated paths inside the historic amphitheater.

Yes, it’s an impressive place for sure. In its day, up to 70,000 screaming Romans watched gladiatorial combat, executions, triumphal celebrations, and other spectacles. Today, approximately 16,000 people visit the Colosseum every single day. So although the place feels very crowded to me, it is positively empty compared to what it would have been back when the arena floor was covered in sand to better absorb the blood.

The guide talks about how wild beasts were starved for days before being let loose to gnaw on convicts, Christian martyrs, and anyone else the Emperor didn’t like. It’s the odd interesting fact such as this that you get from a guided tour.

Is A Guided Tour of the Rome Colosseum Worth the Wait?

So, should you opt for a guided tour of Rome’s most famous monument, check it out on your own, or forget about it and do something that doesn’t involve rubbing shoulders (literally) with thousands of strangers?

You may have guessed my opinion, which is Door #3. The entire tour/ordeal lasted about three hours, with the smallest number of minutes devoted to the tour and the largest to waiting for the tour.

Now, to be fair, the extra security measures ate up a goodly chunk of that three hours. I don’t know if these measures will become the norm going forward, in which case be prepared for waits, or if it’s temporary. You’ll have to check that out before you book.

I don’t blame the tour guide for all the waiting. She was doing her best in difficult circumstances and to her credit remained cheerful and upbeat throughout. I gave her a 5 Euro tip which appeared to surprise her, but hey, I figure she’d earned it.

Most people either didn’t tip or gave her 5 euros for their entire party which I thought was a bit cheap of them. Tips are not required, but I think it’s a good idea to give the guide a little extra considering they probably don’t get paid all that much, and it’s a challenging job at the best of times.

Touring the Colosseum On Your Own

What about the second option—see the Colosseum on your own? I think it may be marginally the better option because you don’t need to arrive at a location two hours ahead of when you get in. Instead, you can go straight to the ticket line and take your chances. The wait could be 10 minutes or two hours.

You could also buy your ticket online. You’ll still need to stand in line-ups, but not for quite so long. It’s difficult to say. We bought our “skip-the-line” tickets to Pompeii online and still had to wait in line about 20 minutes to exchange the online tickets for real tickets.

When To Visit the Colosseum

I think the moral of the story is that whatever way you slice it, sites like the Colosseum are really, really popular. You can try to beat the crowds, but I don’t think in any universe you’ll get around waiting in long lines.

My advice? Either visit the Colosseum during the off-season (November to March) when crowds are thinner, or forget about it and go see some of the city’s other awesome sites.

Tours of the Colosseum

If you do opt for a tour (and I’m just saying, buyer beware), then GetYourGuide has plenty of tours to choose from. I suggest choosing a tour that includes a ticket to the Colosseum and the Forum so you won’t need to line up to buy your ticket separately.

Also, you may be better off booking a tour in the late afternoon or opt for one of the evening tours instead of the morning. I felt like everyone fueled up on their hotel breakfast as early as possible and made a beeline for the Colosseum as their first stop of the day. Possibly later in the day may be less frantic.

Other Sites in Rome

Rome is chock-a-block full of amazing things to see and do. Here are some of my favorite sites in Rome. You’ll note that I don’t include big ticket items like the Vatican Museum, St. Peter’s, the Pantheon, and the Trevi Fountain, all of which are over-run with visitors.

Walking tour of the Jewish Ghetto
Capitoline Museum
Etruscan Museum
Keats/Shelley House at the Spanish Steps
Modern Art Museum
Borghese Gardens
Baths of Caracella

These are just a sampling. There are also a ton of fabulous churches, some with Roman foundations.

My Favorite Activity in Rome

For me, my favorite Rome activity is walking around the various neighborhoods and avoiding the bottleneck areas around the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, St. Peter’s Square, and especially the Trevi Fountain. If you want to experience any of those places crowd-free, either swing by late at night or go for a very early morning stroll.

Here’s a shot taken on our way home after a scrumptious dinner in a restaurant on an atmospheric side street just steps from where we stayed at Viam 6B, which was not far from the Spanish Steps.

A narrow cobblestone street in Rome at night, lined with potted plants and historic buildings with shutters. A woman in a floral dress stands under streetlights, adding to the serene, atmospheric scene.

Accommodation Options in Rome

In 2024, we stayed in two places in Rome because we broke up our 2-week stay with a 5-day trip south to Naples and Paestum (read about my visit to the incomparable Naples Archaeological Museum).

When we first arrived, we stayed at Sant’Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome, very close to a lot of Roman ruins in addition to the Capitoline Museum and the Piazza Venezia, site of the Victor Emmanuel monument. The apartment was very atmospheric and in an excellent location for exploring ancient Rome.

When we returned to Rome, we stayed at Viam 6B located between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Popolo–a very upscale and chi-chi part of Rome with lots of designer stores. I preferred the location of our first place because the area was much less touristy and very medieval-feeling. However, the accommodations at Viam 6B were very modern and comfortable and included a beautiful outdoor terrace. It was also staffed which is nice for getting directions and ordering taxis.

But both places were great and I’d cheerfully stay in either on our next trip to Rome.

More Tour Options for the Colosseum

Here are some tour options to consider sold through Tiqets.com:

Walking Tours of Rome

If you enjoy walking tours, I can recommend the tours offered by GuruWalks. Here are a few of the tours available in Rome.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Colosseum in Rome recently and not found it crowded? Do you have any tips for how to have an enjoyable visit? Please share in the comments below.

Posts About Rome

Here are some more posts about Rome, one of my very favorite cities in the world. I’ve visited eight times, and I’m not done yet!

Pizza, Gelato, Suppli–Oh My! A Fantastic Cooking Class in Rome

April 29, 2024December 4, 2024Activities, Arts & Culture, Destinations, Europe, Italy Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on December 4th, 2024 at 12:13 am

I’m a huge fan of taking cooking classes when I travel around interesting locales that have unique cuisines. So far, I’ve taken a market class and a French sauces class (sweet and savory) in Paris, a tapas class in Madrid, and a pasta & tiramasu class in Rome (see my post about that awesome class here).

Choosing a Class in Rome

With two weeks to spend in Rome in 2024 (with a few days off to visit Naples and Paestum), I decided to take yet another cooking class. Most of classes available were variations on the pasta/tiramasu class I’d already taken, but after a bit of searching on Get Your Guide, I discovered a pizza and gelato-making class.

Perfect! I signed up on Tuesday for the class on Friday.

EnjoyCooking.com with Crown Tours

In 2022, I’d taken the pasta/tiramisu class with InRome Cooking, which I highly recommend. But this time, I decided to go with EnjoyCooking.com for the sake of variety and having a new company to write about on Artsy Traveler. EnjoyCooking.com partners with Crown Tours to offer cooking classes in a lovely, brick-arched space next door to their tour office and across the street from the Colosseum.

The day before the class, I got a WhatsApp call from the company. The family that had signed up to take the class at the same time as me had canceled, leaving me on my own. Did I want to postpone the class to the evening slot? I could not because in the evening, we had the opening of Gregg’s art exhibition at Il Leone Galleria in Rome. I was assured that they were happy to still offer the class at the 10 am time slot even if I was on my own. Lucky me!

Arrival at EnjoyCooking.com

I arrived on Friday morning and was ushered into the cooking space. There was room for eight people in a class so it was much more intimate than the class I took at InRome Cooking in 2022 which hosted I think twelve people. To my delight, there was one other woman in the class. Over the course of the next three hours, we bonded and had an awesome time.

Chef Marco!

But the biggest surprise was meeting the chef. In walked Marco–the same chef who had taught the pasta/tiramisu class at InRome Cooking. I couldn’t believe it! I told him I’d taken his class and showed him the blog post. He was so excited!

So that was a great way to kick off the morning. Over the next three hours, Chef Marco led my new friend and me in a lively, hands on and informative class. I’m always amazed at how much I learn about cooking technique in these classes.

Gelato Making

We started with gelato. I discovered to my relief that the ice cream maker I’d purchased several years earlier could be dragged out, dusted off, and used to make gelato. Who knew?

We heated several pints of fresh milk in a pot over an electric hot plate. Marco informed us that the milk should be as fresh as possible–so fresh that it would spoil after three days. Of course, getting milk that fresh is pretty much impossible in North America unless you live on a farm, which I don’t. But the next best thing is high quality organic milk.

We heated the milk and whisked in sugar followed by ten egg yolks and grated lemon zest to make limone gelato. The lemons had come from the Amalfi coast and smelled divine.

After mixing the gelato, we poured it into the commercial gelato maker that would produce perfect gelato within thirty minutes. What an impressive looking machine!

Carol Cram pouring gelato into gelato maker

Marco informed us that we would also make raspberry sorbetto to go along with the limone gelato. Sorbetto is even faster and easier to make than gelato. We mixed water with raspberries and once the gelato was made, we poured it into the gelato-maker (after the limone gelato was done, of course).

Here’s a video of the raspberry gelato being extruded from the gelato maker–an exceedingly beautiful and satisfying sight.

Suppli Making

I had never heard of suppli–a Roman street food that is widely available all over the city. Marco showed us how to take rice cooked in tomatoes and form it around fresh cubes of mozzarella cheese, then bread and deep fry it. The result was a log-shaped rectangle that when still hot and pulled apart stretched the warm mozzarella cheese. It was yummy but a bit rich for me at only 11 am!

But when in Rome!

Pizza Making

The main event of the cooking class was making pizza the proper way–aka like they make piazza in Napoli where Marco was from.

I learned that the pizza dough should be rested for two hours after mixing and then rested in the refrigerator for up to three days. That was something new to me. I’d always let my piazza dough rise for about an hour, if that, and then cooked it. Apparently, doing so results in dough that is still fermenting when it enters your tummy. Not good!

Mixing the Pizza Dough

We mixed the dough and kneaded it for about six minutes–a very satisfying process. The dough was light and very elastic. It was then put away to rest and presumably used for a class the next day. Marco then produced dough that had already been rested and risen for a day, and we proceeded to learn how to shape the dough into a pizza. Handling the soft, pliant dough was such a pleasure. We didn’t learn how to throw it in the air, but we did learn a few tricks I can apply back home.

Baking the Pizza

Another tip I learned was to slather on the tomato sauce first, bake the pizza for about six minutes in a home oven (much less in a high temperature commercial oven) and then add the toppings and cook for another three to four minutes. Who knew? I also learned that certain toppings such as prosciutto should not be cooked, but added after the pizza came out of the oven.

For best results, I was told that I should get myself a pizza stone so that’s going on my Christmas list for next year!

Topping the Pizza

After baking the pizza with the sauce, we were offered a wide array of toppings to dress our pizza. My companion chose mozzarella cheese and fresh sausage. I chose anchovies, mushrooms, olives, and of course mozzarella cheese. Here we are making our pizzas in front of the scrumptious assortment of toppings.

Finishing the Pizzas

The pizzas went back in the oven and voila! Within minutes they were being served to us. The first bites were wonderful–the crust slightly charred and very puffed up (the sign of a good pizza) and the toppings fresh. I managed to get through three pieces before having to give up. Marco thoughtfully put the remainder in a pizza box for me to carry home to Gregg.

Finished pizza with anchovies and olives at cooking class in rome

After pizza, we were served the gelato we’d made earlier. OMG! The limone gelato, in particular, was truly to die for. I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a fresher and more delightful-tasking gelato. It puts the run-of-the-mill gelatos found in gelato stores to shame. As Marco said, it’s all about using the freshest ingredients.

The class ended with me receiving my certificate and posing for a picture with Marco. I was thoroughly satisfied with my second Rome cooking experience in EnjoyCooking.com and Crown Tours.

A smile was on my face as I threaded my way through the crowds of tourists streaming past the Colosseum and Forum on my way back to our comfy little apartment in the Jewish Ghetto.

Thank you, EnjoyCooking.com and Marco for an excellent experience.

EnjoyCooking.com Class

Here’s a link to the cooking class I took through Crown Tours. As I’ve mentioned often on Artsy Traveler, I’m a very big fan of Get Your Guide. I booked my class with Crown Tours through Get Your Guide. If you click on the link below (or the links in the next section) and take any tour (not just the ones listed), I get a small commission. Thank you.

Cooking Classes in Rome with Get Your Guide

Here is a selection of additional cooking classes in Rome run by both Crown Tours and other companies.

Conclusion

Have you taken a cooking class while traveling? Share your experience in the comments below!

Spending an Amazing Day at Proyecto Asis Wildlife Refuge in Costa Rica

September 1, 2023December 4, 2024Activities, Arts & Culture, Central America, Destinations Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on December 4th, 2024 at 12:04 am

I highly, highly recommend spending a day at a wildlife refuge while traveling in Costa Rica. Just make sure you do your research and find a reputable one that places the animals’ best interests far above those of tourists.

We did quite a bit of searching online before selecting Proyecto Asis for our wildlife refuge day. Its numerous five-star reviews and assurances that it existed for the benefit of the animals in its care convinced us. A non-profit organization, Proyecto Asis provides a secure home to orphaned, abandoned, injured or otherwise neglected animals.

Overview of Proyecto Asis

The intention is to eventually release the animals back to the wild. Unfortunately, humans have damaged some of the animals so badly that they can never again live safely outside captivity. We learned all this during the course of the day, and it was fascinating!

Proyecto Asis is located about 45 minutes from La Fortuna in a beautiful area of farms and forests. If you’re driving, you can get there easily from La Fortuna, or you can ask Proyecto Asis to hire a driver for you (that’s what we did).

Established in 2002, Proyecto Asis is now an animal rescue center, Spanish school, and volunteer center.

Booking a Day at Proyecto Asis

We booked our day at the Proyecto Asis a few months before our visit to Costa Rica. Their website provided several options. We chose to do the sloth walk in the morning, the tour of the wildlife refuge in the afternoon, and an hour or two of volunteering at the end of the day.

I’m very glad we chose to stay for the whole day. Having that much time at the wildlife refuge gave us a good feel for the place and for the excellent work it does protecting animals. I could have happily spent another whole day there. Proyecto Asis has several programs to accommodate a range of interests, so if wildlife conservation is your thing, you’ll likely find some good options.

Getting to Proyecto Asis

Proyecto Asis has organized a transfer for us from the Tabacon Hot Springs Resort near La Fortuna. Promptly at 9:30 am, our driver Alfonso arrives to pick us up. He speaks good English and gets us to the refuge right on time. On the way, he pulls into a fruit stand and emerges holding two containers of freshly chopped papaya, pineapple, and watermelon that he presents to us.

How thoughtful! The fruit is achingly fresh and refreshing and way better than the fruit at the hotel breakfast.

Entrance to Proyecto Asis near La Fortuna in Costa Rica — Entrance to Proyecto Asis Wild Animal Rescue Center

Touring the Sloth Sanctuary

After arriving at Proyecto Asis, we are warmly greeted and our fruit stored for the day in the refrigerator. After spraying ourselves with bug repellant (in the parking lot, not in the forest, to avoid affecting the animals!), we join a family of four for a tour of the sloth sanctuary across the road. The sanctuary is home to many sloths who live in the wild. While there are informative plaques dotted around the pathways, the sanctuary is not a zoo.

Our guide Jonny shares his enthusiasm and extensive knowledge about sloths, stopping every so often during our walk to share information about the four different species of sloths. We don’t see any other wildlife, although Jonny tells us that the week before, he spotted a three-meter boa. I can’t say I’m sorry I didn’t see it too.

Seeing Sloths

Like Luis, our guide at the Arenal Night Walk (described in my post See Costa Rica in Two Packed and Perfect Weeks), Jonny carries a large telescope on a tripod. Without it, seeing any sloths at all beyond brown fur balls high in the trees will be impossible. Jonny also has a contraption to strap the iPhone to the telescope to take pictures and videos of the sloths.

Sloth hanging in a tree — A sloth hanging out in its natural habitat

Learning About Sloths

One of my favorite exhibits at the sloth sanctuary is of the massive prehistoric sloth—twenty feet high and nothing like his furry, bug-infested ancestor. This guy was anything but cute!

We learn that hundreds and hundreds of insects buzz around the sloths hanging out in the trees. Through the telescope, we can see so many that the sloths appear blurry. When a sloth does move, it is to scratch itself, which is hardly surprising.

Jonny tells us that baby sloths stay with Mama for five months. Mama then brings baby down to the ground and leaves it there to fend for itself because presumably by that time it knows how to be a sloth.

Hearing from the Guide

Here’s a clip of Jonny talking about sloths. His enthusiasm for his subject is infectious.

In recent years, these creatures, which are actually not at all cuddly and even dangerous to get near as a result of the bugs infesting them, have become incredibly popular. Sloths are the unofficial mascot of Costa Rica. Their images are everywhere–from T-shirts to tea towels and every possible thing in between.

Unfortunately, their popularity has led to some so-called wildlife parks exploiting them to entertain tourists. However, the Costa Rican government is doing its best to crack down on questionable wildlife practices and is shutting down facilities that do not protect the animals.

The sloth walk is through very lush jungle that includes plenty of vibrant flowers. The air hums with insects and the heat and humidity are tropical but still comfortable for walking.

Tropical flowers at Proyecto Asis near La Fortuna in Costa Rica — Beautiful tropical flowers at the sloth sanctuary

Lunch at a Soda

After the sloth walk, we walk down the road to a soda, which is a small restaurant run by locals, to enjoy food that is hearty, typical, and cheap. We both enjoy excellent meals plus pineapple drinks for about 11000 colóns, which is less than $20 USD. It is a bargain for sure.

Excellent simple meal at a soda in Costa Rica — My tasty lunch at a soda

Wildlife Refuge Tour

After lunch, we walk back to Proyecto Asis for the wildlife refuge tour. I have no idea what to expect. To my surprise and delight, the next two hours fly by during probably the most interesting and comprehensive tour I’ve ever been on for anything, anywhere (and I’ve been on my fair share of tours over the years).

Much of the appeal of the tour is due to the personality and enthusiasm of Carlos, our guide. Numerous Trip Advisor reviews mention him by name and no wonder. The man is a gifted entertainer and so passionate about communicating and educating visitors about wildlife preservation and rehabilitation.

Beautiful blue parrot greets us as we enter the wildlife sanctuary to start the tour

Learning About Rescue Animals

All the animals at the Proyecto Asis Wildlife Refuge are rescued, the vast majority from homes where, tragically, they were kept as pets. It’s so sad to hear their stories. Carlos stops at every cage and introduces the animal, tells us its story, and describes how the staff at the refuge are rehabilitating the animal back into the wild. For some, the process will take years; for others, just a few months depending on the severity of injury and trauma the animal has suffered.

A few of the animals are so damaged that they will never be able to survive in the wild. At least they will live their lives securely and be well fed, with plenty of other animals to keep them company.

Carlos talks a lot about how animals in captivity often exhibit unnatural behaviors. Here he explains why parrot “talk”!

Monkeys at Proyecto Asis

The animals in the refuge vary so you never know what you’ll see. On the day we visit, we see spider monkeys and white-faced monkeys, two of the five species of monkeys in Costa Rica. Some are wild monkeys that have been hit by cars and need to recover from their injuries before being returned to the forest. These are the luckier ones. At least they know how to live in the wild.

A monkey at Proyecto Asis — One of the monkeys hanging out

The saddest stories are of the poor creatures who were taken from the wild as babies and then kept chained up for years until finally their owners tired of them and dumped them at the refuge. These monkeys need to learn how to be monkeys again.

Carlos spends a lot of time describing the various ways in which they retrain the monkeys, always with the intention of preparing them for the wild. While they do name the monkeys to identify them, they do not interact with them as pets. They are wild animals—or soon to be—and the respect for them is palpable and so admirable.

Here Carlos explains about monkeys and their tails.

Carlos emphasizes over and over again how they do not want to make the animals playthings of humans, that they deserve to have their own lives as free and wild creatures. All behaviors that are not found in the wild are slowly changed, usually by the animals themselves. A monkey that arrives at the refuge not knowing how to swing by its tail because it never got the chance to learn while in captivity eventually learns by watching the other monkeys.

How Monkeys Become Pets

Carlos tells us how people get monkeys to sell as pets. They go into the forest and take baby monkeys. And how do they get a baby monkey? They kill the mother because if they don’t, the mother will attack. So, two lives are ruined, and for what? It’s heartbreaking, but also heartening because facilities like the Proyecto Asis are doing incredible work.

A monkey staring out of its cage at Proyecto Asis — A better life awaits this guy once he can be rehabilitated back to the wild where he belongs.

A Green Boa

While standing in front of one of monkey cages, we see this beautiful fellow slowly slithering past. He pays zero attention to us.

A snake goes on its slithery way

Tropical Birds at Proyecto Asis

In addition to the monkeys, the refuge takes care of a great variety of tropical birds, particularly toucans, macaws, and parrots. Almost all these birds were once pets. Most have come to the refuge without their tail feathers and some with broken wings, clipped wings, and worse. The birds are so damaged that rehabilitating them can take years. In fact, some of the birds will never be released.

A beautiful scarlet macaw at Proyecto Asis — The parrots are so spectacular

Macaws

Macaws are known to mate for life. When one dies, the other usually dies within weeks. But what self-respecting red or green macaw will mate with a hybrid? None.

We also learn that parrots are not monogamous. When a mate dies, the survivor quickly finds another mate. Interestingly, the parrots live about 40 years. The macaws with their one-mate-for-life live for about 100 years. One point for monogamy!

Carlos explains about how parrots that are separated can get depressed and then die.

A Hybrid Macaw

One of the most tragic stories is of a macaw that was bred from a red macaw and a green macaw. This combination is impossible in nature, because the two species of macaws live in different parts of Costa Rica and would never meet, never mind mate. But some horrible person did manage to mate a red one with a green one. The resulting offspring will forever live at the refuge because in the wild, it couldn’t survive in the area where the red macaws live and it couldn’t survive in the area where the green macaws live.

The hybrid is apparently worth a great deal of money because its plumage is so striking, although so, so wrong. Fortunately for the hybrid, it’s found a good home at Proyecto Asis well away from wildlife traffickers.

A hybrid macaw at Proyecto Asis — This hybrid was bred in captivity and will never be able to live in the wild

I love the toucans; and there are plenty at the refuge. They are so comical to watch, with their large beaks. It’s great to be able to get so close to them.

A toucan at Proyecto Asis — A toucan poses for a picture

Carlos never stops talking for two hours and everything he says is fascinating. I am riveted and inspired.

Volunteering at Proyecto Asis

After the wildlife tour (we also see three wild pigs, two caimans, and a morgay, which is a type of small wildcat), Carlos teaches Julia, me, and one other person from the refuge tour how to chop fruit and veggies to feed the monkeys.

Again, Carlos keeps up a steady stream of commentary about how the animals are fed, how he makes sure the alpha males don’t steal every portion, etc. I learn so much!

After we chop the fruit, Carlos leads us to the monkey enclosures, and we get to watch while the monkeys eat their dinner. But only some of the monkeys! We learn that the refuge doesn’t allow guests to watch the same monkeys eat every day. Guests are rotated between the various monkey cages so that all monkeys get at least a few days a week to eat in privacy. Apparently, privacy has been identified as an important need for the monkeys, which makes sense. I wouldn’t want people watching me eat all the time either.

Conclusion

At the end of our wonderful day at Proyecto Asis, a different driver picks us up and whisks us back to La Fortuna. We ask him to drop us in the town rather than taking us to Tabacon, which is about 7 kilometers away. For several hours, we enjoy wandering around the shops and then having a meal.

Sign up for a tour of a wildlife refuge when you visit Costa Rica. You won’t be disappointed! And check out my long post about my visit to Costa Rica: See Costa Rica in Two Packed and Perfect Weeks

Here are some other tours in Costa Rica:

15 Must-Dos in Copenhagen for the Artsy Traveler

March 3, 2023December 10, 2024Activities, Arts & Culture, Denmark, Destinations Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on December 10th, 2024 at 05:16 am

Put Copenhagen on your list of must-see European cities. It’s small enough to tour in a few days and large enough to reward a longer stay.

I stayed for eight nights in Copenhagen in September 2022, while my husband and partner-in-travel Gregg Simpson had an exhibition of his paintings at Galleri Bredgade 22 close to the picturesque Nyhavn area of the city. I could have easily filled another eight days. Even so, I was able to pack a lot into the time I had available.

This post highlights my top fifteen sites and experiences.

Get Your Bearings

Before starting, check the map below. Most of my suggested sites in Copenhagen city itself are within walking distance of each other. The last four sites are outside Copenhagen and easily accessible by train.

Places mapped by Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

#1: Get the Copenhagen Card

The first item on my list isn’t a site but rather the card you’ll need to tour most of the rest of my recommendations. The Copenhagen Card is truly a bargain. With it, you can get into just about every museum and notable site in the city and use it on all the subways, busses, and trains in the Capital Region (a very large swathe of land that includes Copenhagen and most sites within an hour train ride).

You can purchase the Copenhagen Card for varying lengths. I purchased a five-day card which was perfect and allowed me to see almost everything I wanted to explore.

To find out if it’s worth your while to purchase a Copenhagen Card, choose the sites and museums you want to visit, check their prices online, and then compare them with the cost of the card. I pretty much guarantee you’ll find that the Copenhagen Card will be worth its price.

Click the image below to purchase the Copenhagen card.

#2: Take a Bike Tour

A good idea is to take a bike tour on the first day or two you’re in Copenhagen. That way, you’ll get the “lay of the land” while also ticking off a few of the most touristy sites such as the Little Mermaid (you only need to see her once!), some of the parks, and Nyhavn.

I joined a small bike tour for a 90-minute joy ride through Copenhagen and loved every minute of it. Copenhagen is made for cycling. You have your own lanes and your own traffic lights, and everyone knows and obeys the rules.

Meeting the Copenhagen Bike Tour

I met the tour at the bike racks in Kongen Nytorv (#2 on the map above), the large square not far from where we were staying in Nyhavn (see my review of our fabulous apartment). Our guide showed us the basic hand signals for turning left and right and stopping, assigned each of us in the group of six people a large and sturdy bike, reviewed how to change gears, and then boom, we were off. Helmets? What helmets?

Carol Cram standing with a bike in Copenhagen prior to going on a bike tour — Meeting the bike tour in Kongens Nytorv near Nyhavn

Riding around Copenhagen on a bike makes you feel like a real Copenhager. Everyone cycles here–young and old. Even if you’re not much of a cyclist, or out of practice (as I was), you’ll have no trouble cycling in flat Copenhagen. I think I changed gears once to go up a very slight incline in the area near the Little Mermaid.

King’s Garden

We rode for about ten minutes to the King’s Garden (Kongens Have – #5 on the map), where our guide gave us a quick history of Denmark and Copenhagen. He was a font of knowledge. While you could rent a bike and explore Copenhagen on your own, I recommend taking a tour. You’ll learn a lot, and also get the chance to chat with some fellow travelers.

The King’s Garden includes an attractive castle surrounded by a moat and plenty of tree-lined paths. In September, locals were hanging out on the lawns enjoying the sunshine.

Nyboder

We rode next to Nyboder (#6 on the map), an area of historic row houses that housed sailors in the 18th century. Our guide shared interesting information about the hard life of sailors and their families back in the day.

We then checked out both of Copenhagen’s mermaids. To read about them, see #3 below.

Gefion Fountain

A highlight for me was hearing the story attached to the Gefion Fountain (#10 on the map), which we rode to after visiting with the mermaids. The fountain depicts the mythical story of the creation of the island of Zealand upon which Copenhagen is situated. According to legend, the Swedish king Gylfi promised Gefjun (a goddess) that she could have all the land she could plow in a night. Well, being a bit of a resourceful lass, Gefjun turned her four sons into oxen and plowed out a Zealand-shaped chunk of land which was then thrown into the Danish sea to become the Zealand we know today. She left behind a hole that is now Lake Mälaren in Sweden.

What a woman!

Royal Palace & Opera House

We rode to a location where we could see both Royal Palace (#14) and the fabulous modern opera house (#15) directly across the harbor. Our guide talked a lot about the many environmental innovations Denmark is pioneering, including exciting new ways of recycling trash and using wind energy. Denmark is an inspiration for the rest of the world.

He also talked about the royal family and Queen Margrethe II who was celebrating her 50-year jubilee in 2022. In fact, several celebrations were going on while we were in Copenhagen. Apparently, the royal family are very well liked in Denmark, the Queen in particular. One of her many accomplishments is illustrating The Lord of the Rings, much to the admiration of Tolkein himself.

Royal opera house in Copenhagen — Opera house

Nyhavn

The bike tour ended in Nyhavn (#1) where our guide provided us with plenty of interesting commentary about living in Copenhagen and the remarkable social success story that is Denmark. Yes, there are still problems, but overall, Denmark is having enviable success compared to most other countries when it comes to solving many of the 21st century’s most pressing social and environmental challenges.

In the photo below, you can see the building where we stayed. It’s the dark orange one between the brown and tan buildings to the right of the guide.

Guide standing in front of Nyhavn harbor in Copenhagen — Our knowledgeable guide telling us about Nyhavn

You can choose from plenty of bike tours and even book a private tour. Here are some options:

#3: Check out BOTH Mermaids

Yes, there are two–the famous one in the harbor that is mobbed with tourists, and the not-so-famous one about ten minutes away. Called the Genetically Modified Mermaid (#7), the statue is blissfully lonely. When I visited with the bike tour (see above), we were the only people checking her out.

Her more conventionally depicted sister mermaid sits in the harbor and basks in the glow of a thousand cell phones. Getting a picture of her requires some judicious zooming in to avoid the crowds.

The bronze statue of the Little Mermaid (#9) by sculptor Edvard Eriksen is inspired by the 1837 fairy tale by beloved Danish author Hans Christian Andersen. The statue has reached iconic status worldwide and is a must-stop on every tour itinerary. It’s a pleasant place to pause for a few minutes to enjoy views of Copenhagen’s massive harbor.

Genetically modified mermaid - a statue of a mermaid in Copenhagen — Genetically modified mermaid

Statue of the Little Mermaid in Copenhagen Harbor — Famous mermaid

#4: Take Pictures in Nyhavn

We stayed in a beautiful two-bedroom apartment in Nyhavn (#1) and I’m so glad we did. The area was once very sketchy–think rough pubs and brothels–but after major renovations and rebranding, Nyhavn has become one of the most recognizable regions in all of Copenhagen. In fact, nowadays you’d be hard-pressed to find any tourist info about Denmark that didn’t include a picture of Nyhavn.

The colorful buildings, old ships, and numerous sidewalk cafes are irresistible. I spent quite a bit of time taking photographs at various times of day to capture the shifting light.

According to the guide on my bike tour (see above), the restaurants in Nyhavn are overly touristy and over-priced. He has a point. We ate at one and yes, it was on the pricy side, which is saying something in pricy Copenhagen. But the setting really can’t be beat, so at least stop at one of the sidewalk cafes to enjoy a drink and watch the world go by.

Here’s a selection of photos from different images and in different lights of what must be the world’s most photogenic harbor.

#5: Eat Smørbrød

This is not optional! When you visit Copenhagen, you have to eat several pieces of smørbrød. These hearty, open-faced sandwiches consist of rugbrod rye bread heaped up with a dizzying array of fresh and artfully displayed ingredients. Your biggest challenge will be deciding which smørbrød to choose.

They are surprisingly filling. I found that two or three were plenty for a good lunch. You’ll find smørbrød at many restaurants around Copenhagen and beyond. Also check out cafes in places outside Copenhagen where you’re likely to find less expensive but just as fabulous smørbrød. Here are two plates of smørbrød–one enjoyed in Nyhavn on our first day and the other for a lovely dinner in Tivoli Gardens.

Two Smørbrød on a plate, a specialty in Copenhagen — Smørbrød for a snack

Four Smørbrød on a plate in Copenhagen — Smørbrød for dinner

#6: Tour the Design Museum

The Designmuseum Danmark (AKA the Danish Design Museum – #8) was the first museum we visited in Copenhagen and it set a high bar! It’s a wonderful place with interesting and gorgeously displayed exhibits and plenty of commentary in Danish and English. You could spend all day there and still want to come back for more.

Even if you’re not “into” design, carve some time out of your Copenhagen stay to visit the Design Museum. Everyone sits on chairs and uses cutlery–and both these things, along with a ton more items we use every day, are featured in the context of design. The museum tells the story of Danish design of everything from furniture to objects to textiles to cutlery to posters, and a lot more.

The many rooms in the Designmuseum Danmark are arranged around themed exhibitions. For the most up-to-date information about current exhibitions, see the museum’s website.

Display of modern furniture at the Danish Design Museum

Check out my post A Trio of Must-See Museums in Copenhagen for a more comprehensive description of what you’ll see at the DesignMuseum Danmark.

#7: Visit the Danish National Museum

Called the Nationalmuseet (#12), this major museum is also worth several hours of your time on even a short trip to Copenhagen. We particularly enjoyed the prehistory collection (once of the best-displayed and best-explained I’ve ever seen) and the large exhibition devoted to the Vikings. They were a busy lot, as you’ll find out.

The museum is quite vast. Go early in the morning when you have energy and pace yourself! What I enjoyed the most was the cleverness of the displays. Everything is presented so artfully, which is fitting for a country famed for its design chops. And fortunately, as with the Design Museum, all the displays are accompanied by excellent commentary in both Danish and English.

Check out my post A Trio of Must-See Museums in Copenhagen for a more comprehensive description of what you’ll see at the Nationalmuseet.

#8: Visit Tivoli Gardens at Night

Tivoli Gardens (#11) is an amusement park right smack in the middle of downtown Copenhagen. It’s one of the sites included with the Copenhagen Card, which is a good thing because I don’t think it’s worth the fairly steep admission price. Mind you, we’re not into rides and midway games–both of which take up a fair chunk of the park.

That said, go in the early evening to stroll through the beautifully designed gardens and view the pavilions, have dinner at a restaurant overlooking one of the bodies of water, and then marvel at the fabled lights. It’s a beautiful place to spend an evening.

We enjoyed an excellent meal at a restaurant overlooking the pirate ship. The server kindly took our picture.

Carol and Gregg sitting at an outdoor table in Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen — Dinner al fresco at Tivoli Gardens

After dinner, we checked out the famous pagoda, listened to the screamsof the people braving the rides, and then called it a night.

#9: Go to a Concert at the DR Koncerthuset

We love going to classical music concerts when we travel in Europe and so got tickets for a concert at the DR Koncerthuset (#13), an ultra-modern, acoustically stunning hall a short metro ride from the center of Copenhagen.

We had perfect seats close to the front and in line with the piano keyboard (always a priority for me!). The concert included a Rachmaninoff concerto that knocked our socks off.

As soon as you know when you’ll be visiting Copenhagen, check out what concerts are on and get tickets in advance. The DR Koncerthuset website is in English and Danish.

#10: Wander the Pedestrian Streets

Copenhagen was one of the first (if not the first) European city to designate certain streets in the center of the city as “pedestrians only” in the early 1960s. The main street is called Strøget (#4). At 1.1 km, it’s still one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets and stretches from City Hall Square to Kongens Nytorv. You’ll find a lot of stores lining both sides–both budget chains and designer shops.

I remember being amazed by the Strøget when I visited Copenhagen in 1970. I’d never seen a pedestrianized street like it. My mom and I spent several happy hours wandering up and down it, shopping for Danish souvenirs and eating smørbrød. The name Strøget also refers to several other streets in the area including Frederiksberggade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet and Østergade and Nytorv square, Gammeltorv Square and Amagertorv Square.

Take your time and explore the many streets in the area while soaking up the very Danish vibe.

#11: Eat Lakrids by Bülow

I had never heard of Lakrids and now I’m hooked! Fortunately for my waistline, they are not easy to find in Vancouver. However, the next time I visit Copenhagen, I’m stocking up.

What is Lakrids by Bülow? Only the most scrumptious, luscious, and luxurious licorice I’ve ever tasted. It is a premium brand with a premium price, but oh-so-worth-it for the licorice lover. The delectable balls come in a dizzying variety of colors and flavors. I only bought one tube and have regretted it ever since!

I discovered a beautiful display of Lakrids by Bülow in the very posh Magasin du Nord in an iconic building on the Kongens Nytorv, the central square very close to Nyhavn where we were staying.

Even if you’re not a licorice lover, go to the Magasin du Nord (#3), try a free sample of the licorice bites, and then check out the rest of the store.

The fashionable department store dates back to 1869 and covers five floors in addition to the basement that houses the food market. Here, you’ll find a fabulous selection of fresh and prepared food that reminded me of the Harrods food floor in London. It’s a great place to pick up ingredients for a meal if your accommodations have a kitchen.

I spent a fair bit of time exploring the household goods and posh Danish souvenirs (not the plastic variety sold in the souvenir shops, but the really nice, Danish design variety). Magasin du Nord is the place to pick up exquisitely designed candlesticks, platters, cutlery, Danish china, and the like. I could have spent a lot of money there! Actually, I did spend a lot of money there…

Exploring the Capital Region of Denmark

After enjoying Copenhagen, venture outside the city where you’ll find plenty to do and see. You’ll also still save money with the Copenhagen Card on both the transportation and at the sites themselves.

Here’s a map of the Capital Region of Denmark to orient yourself. Each of the four destinations listed is no more than 40 minutes by train from Copenhagen. If you have lots of energy, you could visit Hamlet’s Castle (Helsginor), the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art and Frederiksborg Castle in one full day and then reserve another day for the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde.

Trip map created using Wanderlog, a travel planner on iOS and Android

#12: Visit “Hamlet’s Castle”

Venture outside Copenhagen to visit Kronborg Castle (#1 on the Danish Capital Region Map above) in Helsingor, about a 40-minute train ride north. Both the castle and the train fare are covered by the Copenhagen Card.

Kronborg Castle is the setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet, although Shakespeare never saw it. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the castle is worth a visit to tour its many rooms, learn about Danish history, and enjoy views over the water to Sweden from its narrow windows. Also spend time exploring the charming little town of Helsingor. Although there’s lots for the tourist to see, the town doesn’t feel touristy. It feels very, well, Danish.

Check out more information about Kronborg Castle and Helsingor in my post Three Recommended Day Trips from Copenhagen.

#13: Visit the Louisiana Gallery of Modern Art

Consider visiting the Louisiana Gallery of Modern Art (#3 on the map above) on the same day you visit Helsingor. The two places are very close to each other (with the Louisiana Gallery just south of Helsingor) and together make for a perfect day trip out of Copenhagen.

The Louisiana Museum is one of Europe’s most renowned museums of modern art. For me, the stars of the place are the outdoor sculptures artfully arranged in the magnificent natural setting overlooking the North Sea and Sweden. Go on a day when the weather is clear so you can fully appreciate the views.

Sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Check out more information about the Louisiana Gallery of Modern Art in my post Three Recommended Day Trips from Copenhagen.

#14: Visit Frederiksborg Castle

Another good day trip out of Copenhagen is to Frederiksborg Castle (#2). It’s an enormous place, very atmospherically located in a large lake. You can even take a launch (cost covered by the Copenhagen Card!) from the little town of Frederiksborg to the castle (or take a bus from the train station). The castle itself is quite sumptuous and very large. Wear your walking shoes!

After touring the castle, spend some time in the landscaped gardens before returning to the charming little town of Frederiksborg for lunch.

Carol Cram on the little launch crossing the lake to Fredericksborg in Denmark with the Fredericksborg Castle in the background — On the little launch crossing the lake to Frederiksborg with the castle in the background

Check out more information about Frederiksborg Castle in my post Three Recommended Day Trips from Copenhagen.

#15: Visit Roskilde

The town of Roskilde, about thirty minutes west of Copenhagen (train fare covered by the Copenhagen card!), is home to the Viking Ship Museum (#4). The town was once the capital of Denmark and fairly oozes history, particularly if you’re into Vikings (and who isn’t?).

Full disclosure–I didn’t get time to visit Roskilde on my recent trip to Copenhagen. However, it’s definitely on my list which is why it’s included in this post. The Viking Ship Museum is built around the five original Viking ships from Skuldelev that are part of a global story about ships, people, and things on voyages. The focus of the museum is to tell the story of how the Vikings changed the world with their ships.

For more information about the Viking Ship Museum, check out the website.

Copenhagen Tours

Check out Tiquets.com for good tours of Copenhagen and the surrounding area.

Copenhagen Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Copenhagen!

Conclusion

Copenhagen is a gem of a city. It’s compact, clean, easy to navigate, and friendly. It doesn’t have a bustling, big-city vibe. Instead, it feels like a place where people are happy to live. If you want to hang out with a lot of very healthy-looking people who all seem to ride bikes and love the outdoors and you like great museums and artfully presented food, then Copenhagen should be your next European destination.

Have you visited Copenhagen? Share your suggestions in the comments below.

Here are some more posts about Copenhagen:

Travel Photography As Art: Tips for Taking Great Shots by Guest Poster Julie H. Ferguson

December 19, 2022December 7, 2024Activities, Arts & Culture, Travel Smart Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on December 7th, 2024 at 02:28 am

For most travelers, taking photgraphs is an integral part of exploring new destinations. Some people snap quick photos with their SmartPhones while others travel with several cameras and apply their training and a good eye to taking memorable, even exhibition-worthy photographs. Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson falls into the latter category.

Julie describes how she discovered her love of photography and shares her travel photography tips to help the Artsy Traveler take great pictures.

The cover photo for this post, previously exhibited, shows an iceberg in Baffin Bay, where Julie sailed on an expedition ship in the summer of 2022.

How I Got Started with Travel Photography

I believe photography is an art form, while travel is an addiction. Together, they make a magical combination.

My father was an accomplished painter in oils and watercolors who took me to all the great museums and galleries in the UK and some in Europe. A serious amateur, he was good enough to exhibit in the Royal Academy. He also tried hard to get me drawing and painting from an early age. However, I didn’t have his talent and got frustrated when I couldn’t reproduce what I was seeing. And then, when I was ten, Dad had a brainwave and bought me a Kodak Brownie camera. Finally, I found a way to reproduce what I was seeing! Since then, I always have a camera in my hand.

Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson in Croker Bay on a cruise to Canada's Arctic in 2022 — Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson in Croker Bay on an expedition to Canada’s High Arctic (Nunavut) in 2022 (Courtesy: Susan Dixon)

My Photography Passion Expands

For years, I employed what my father taught me about composition, color, and light, especially after I acquired my first single lens reflex camera. I bought my first digital camera in 1999 and was hooked. I joined a camera club in 2005, practised a lot, and learned how to edit my images on a computer.

Now, I own four cameras — two Nikons and lenses, one small but mighty Lumix that fits in my pocket when I’m doing active things like riding camels, and an old GoPro. I have about 50,000 images in the Cloud and have not stopped practising.

Selection of cameras used by guest poster Julie H. Ferguson when taking travel photographs — Julie’s cameras go everywhere with her when she travels

Exhibiting My Travel Photography

Our visual, connected world has seen an explosion in photography recently but, oddly enough, not much of an increase in photography exhibitions. Go to any small or large gallery, and you will rarely see photographs on display. I try to find photography exhibitions wherever I am in the world and am not always successful, but at least I can enjoy the world’s best travel photographers’ work online. Here are two of my favorite websites:

The excellent art gallery near where I live in Penticton, BC, asked my camera club, the Penticton Photography Club, to mount a small exhibition in collaboration with fibre artists in 2021. This was the first photography exhibit the gallery had mounted in its ninety-nine-year existence. I sold my first image at this exhibition — a thrilling moment for me after over twelve years of exhibiting. It was validating, and I felt I had honored my father’s long ago training sessions.

Guest poster Julie h. Ferguson next to photographs she exhibited — Julie next to the first photograph (R) she sold at an exhibition of the Naramata Inn near Penticton, BC (Courtesy: Merle Kindred)

What Kind of Camera Should You Use?

The best camera you have is the one in your hand is an old saying but it’s spot on! Today, the newer phone cameras are exceptional, and I use mine when I’m stuck without one of my cameras. It takes very sharp images with true colors, and manages low light quite well. The video is good too, although I prefer taking stills because I enjoy the challenge.

My Travel Photography Tips

Do you, like me, view photography as more than a snapshot? Perhaps even art? If so, here are some simple travel photography tips to up your game for taking great travel shots.

Travel Photography Tip 1: Keep it straight

Here’s how to avoid shooting wonky horizons and leaning buildings

Line up the horizon to be parallel with the top or bottom of the screen; line up the side of buildings with the side of the screen.
Don’t tip your camera up or down—keep it parallel to the ground.

An iceberg near Baffin Island in Canada's Arctic--an example of good travel photography — Keeping the horizon line straight and focusing on the foreground

Travel Photography Tip 2: Avoid fuzzy images

Fuzzy images are generally caused by camera shake or poor focussing. Here’s how to fix:

Camera shake (everything is fuzzy): Never hold your camera or phone at arm’s length as it bounces when you click the shutter down. Wedge it against something or fix your elbows on a wall, your chest, or your knees before pressing the shutter.

Out of focus (the subject is fuzzy): Press the shutter halfway down and wait for the camera to focus on the subject. If using a phone, tap the screen over the subject. When shooting people or animals focus on the eye closest to you.

Travel Photography Tip 3: Find great light

Don’t shoot into the sun. The best light is during the golden hour after sunrise and before sunset.

Travel Photography Tip 4: Take great people shots

Light people effectively: Take portraits in the shade or on an overcast day to avoid ugly shadows on faces and squinty eyes in bright sunlight. Dark or silhouetted portraits are caused by bright light behind them from skies, sun, sea, or snow.

Close-up hotograph of a woman whosing how to take people photos without harsh shadows. — An example of a portrait that demonstrates harsh shadows under the nose, deep wrinkles, and squinty eyes in bright midday sun.

Put your focus point on the subject by holding down the shutter halfway while the camera focuses. If your camera has an interactive screen, tap over the subject, or tap the subject on your phone’s screen.

Photograph of two camel traders in Morocco as an example of Travel Photograph Tip 4: keeping the focus point on the subject. — In 2018 at the Pushkar Camel Fair, two chiefs haggle good-naturedly over the price of one camel.

If you’re shooting inside and using flash, move your subjects away from the walls by at least a metre to avoid unsightly shadows behind them.

Travel Photography Tip 5: Apply effective composition principles

Avoid placing your subject (focus point) in the middle of the frame. Use the “Rule of Thirds” and put your subject in the area of one of the red dots in the diagram — it’s more pleasing to the eye.

Diagram showing the Rule of Thirds - Travel Photograph Tip 5.

This photograph of an Inu elder in Canada's Arctic demonstrates the trave; photography tip related to the principle of thirds — This photograph of an Inuk elder in Canada’s Arctic demonstrates the Rule of Thirds and the need for space in front of her.

Travel Photograph Tip 6: Avoid shooting where you are standing

Walk around your subject if possible; move right and left, forward and back, and up and down to find the best angle for your shot.

Ziz Gorge in Morocco - an example of photograph tip 6: avoid shooting where you are standing. — Making this huge rock the focal point using the Rule of Thirds with leading lines in this shot of the Ziz Gorge in Morocco

Travel Photography Tip 7: Practise often!

It’s digital, so you can take as many photos as you like, and your “eye” will begin to improve, and the above tips will become more automatic.

Avoid taking a new camera on vacation without taking 2001+ photographs before you go!

Editing Your Photographs

I always endeavour to get the picture I want right in the camera, but I do appreciate the creativity that the digital darkroom affords. In fact, I love the editing as much as taking the photographs. This is where the magic happens for me.

Once you start getting comfortable with your camera, you might want to take the next step and get an editing app for your phone or computer. There’s plenty of suggestions online or from camera club members to get you started . For example, my favourites are Adobe Photoshop and the Nik Collection, the first of which has a steep learning curve (check out this guide to learning Photoshop). Other apps are effective and easy to use.

Conclusion

Upping your photography game when travelling takes some practice and thought. It’s well worth the effort both for personal satisfaction and as a means of preserving your memories.

Safe travels!

Read about Julie H. Ferguson on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page.

Cooking in Roma with InRome Cooking

October 10, 2022September 16, 2024Activities, Arts & Culture, Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler 2 Comments

Last updated on September 16th, 2024 at 05:44 am

Culinary tourism is definitely a thing, and nowhere more so than in Italy. Food tours and cooking classes abound and for good reason. Italy and food go together like, well, Italy and food.

The popularity of Stanley Tucci’s series Searching for Italy about food in Italy is proof that eating and cooking continue to be two of the many artsy reasons to travel in Italy.

Is cooking an art? Absolutely!

And so, while spending a week in Rome in 2022, I decided to take a cooking class. I’d taken a cooking class in Paris, and one of my guest posters, Liz Reding, has written a post about her cooking class experiences in France and Spain.

It was time for Italy to take a turn.

Choosing InRome Cooking

I chose a 3-hour cooking class with InRome Cooking. Here’s the link to register if, after reading this post, you’re interested in taking the class.

Full disclosure – the link takes you to the Tiqets.com website, which is one of my affiliates. That means I get a small percentage of the ticket price if you register.

Cut to the chase–I highly recommend taking a 3-hour class with InRome Cooking. The time flew by and not only did I learn a lot, but I also enjoyed a fabulous meal that I’d cooked myself with some help from my new friends and chef Marco.

About InRome Cooking

InRome Cooking operates out of three locations:

Flagship school on Corso del Rinascimento in a converted 17th-century palace very close to the Piazza Navona and overlooking the Italian parliament. This is the location for the Hands-on Pasta Making Class & Tiramisù class I took.
A sleek and stylish terraced building near the Pantheon on Via Giustiniani.
A cooking school located in the Pope’s organic farm at his private estate in Castel Gandolfo outside Rome.

My Experience with InRome Cooking

In this post, I write about my experience taking a 3-hour class at the Corso del Rinascimento location.

InRome Cooking offers several classes–either shared or private.

I chose the Hands-on Pasta Making Class & Tiramisù for two reasons. First, my husband, Gregg Simpson, had recently discovered the delectable delights of Tiramisù and so I thought it would be good to learn how to make it at home. And second, I have a pasta maker gathering dust in my cupboard, and felt it was high time I learned how to use it correctly.

Both goals were met during the course of the evening.

Registering for a Class with InRome Cooking

I registered for the class about three days in advance, in October 2022. The registration process through Tiqets.com was quick and efficient. Within seconds, I had my ticket downloaded and ready to show. It’s advisable to register well in advance. I was probably lucky to get a spot because the class of just twelve participants was full.

Arriving at InRome Cooking

Promptly at 5:20, I arrived at InRome Cooking located at Corso del Rinascimento, 65 after passing it and then doubling back. You have to look closely to see the rather small InRome Cooking sign on the door.

View of the InRome Cooking sign at Corso del Rinascimento, 65 in Rome — InRome Cooking next to the buzzer at Corso del Rinascimento, 65

For a few moments, I was flummoxed, but soon figured out that I needed to ring the buzzer to be let in. A voice answered (phew!), the buzzer buzzed, and I climbed two flights of marble stairs in the converted 17th-century palazzo. I do like a nice palazzo.

I was met at the top of the stairs by Chef Marco holding a clipboard and smiling broadly. He ushered me into a gorgeous, light-filled kitchen and introduced me to my companions for the evening: a mother and son from Arizona; a mother and son from Sweden, a mom and dad and son from San Francisco, and two couples from Toronto.

The InRome Cooking kitchen with ingredients set out to make Tiramisù

The evening began promptly at 5:30 with a welcome glass of prosecco. We were then placed around the large table already laden with the ingredients and utensils we’d need to make Tiramisù.

Carol Cram at InRome Cooking — Me with chef Marco

Making Tiramisù

We started by making dessert so it would have time to set before enjoying it at the end of the evening.

Chef Marco paired us up and told us to get cracking (literally!). We each separated an egg to get two yolks. The whites were whisked away to be beaten by the sous chefs for later folding into the Tiramisù. We then set to work beating the gorgeous yellow yolks.

Marco told us that fresh eggs are essential for Tiramisù (or indeed any cooking). They shouldn’t be much older than a few weeks and preferably from local hens. I’m lucky that I live on an island where fresh eggs are readily available.

Throughout the evening, Marco emphasized that great cooking starts with the very freshest of ingredients. You don’t need many ingredients to create a wonderful dish when each ingredient is top quality.

Tiramisù Ingredients

For the Tiramisù, we used only six ingredients: fresh eggs, sugar, mascarpone cheese, ladyfingers (called savoiardi), cold coffee, and cocoa powder (unsweetened) for the topping. Tiramisù translates literally as “pick me up,” a direct result of the espresso used in the recipe.

Tiramisù Method

Under Marco’s expert tutelage, we beat sugar into the egg yolks until the color was a rich and creamy light yellow. The more we beat, the creamier the eggs became. I’d say we beat for at least five minutes. Fortunately, Marco supplied links to recipes at the end of the class so I didn’t need to make notes.

After beating the eggs and sugar, we stirred in very generous dollops of mascarpone cheese. Marco emphasized that precise measuring is not necessary in Italian cooking. A generous tablespoon looked to me more like two or three level tablespoons. But then is there such a thing as too much marscapone?

Next step was folding in generous spoonfuls of whipped egg yolks.

Layering the Tiramisù

With our creamy, eggy, cheesy concoction all mixed and ready to go, we were ready to build our Tiramisù. Marco handed each of us a lovely big tea cup (I suppose coffee cup would be more accurate!) and demonstrated the next steps.

First, I took a ladyfinger biscuit and dipped it quickly into the bowl of cold espresso. Down and up, no lingering. The ladyfinger should absorb the coffee but not be dissolved by it. I then broke the ladyfinger in two and placed it at the bottom of the cup.

Next, I spooned in half of the creamy, eggy, cheesy mixture and then dipped and broke another ladyfinger. Finally, I slathered on the rest of the creamy stuff.

One more step! We were given shakers of pure, unsweetened cocoa to sprinkle on top of the Tiramisù and directed to carve something meaningful into the cocoa so we’d know which one is ours.

Here’s my first (and extremely delicious) attempt at Tiramisù with my initials etched in with a toothpick:

A serviing of Tiramisù made at the InRome Cooking school — Tiramisù made at InRome Cooking

Making Pasta

The Tiramisùs were whisked away and the large workspace cleaned by the staff while I mingled for a while with the other guests and enjoyed another glass of prosecco. Two of the people from Toronto had been to Bowen Island where I live, and one has a friend who has just written her first historical novel. Coincidentally, it’s about a subject that intrigued me after visiting the Back to Backs National Trust property in Birmingham. Small world.

We were to make two kinds of pasta: cacio e pepe and amatriciana. It turned out we wouldn’t be making the sauces; Marco demonstrated that. Our job was to make the pasta.

Marco showed us how to mix the two flours and then to knead in the olive oil to make a beautiful, yellow dough. Next step was to pass the dough through the rollers of the pasta maker several times to flatten it and then through the cutters.

The pasta makers were equipped with two cutters–one to make spaghetti which we later ate with the cacio e pepe sauce and one to make fettucine, which we ate with the amatriciana sauce.

Carol Cram passing pasta dough through a pasta maker at the InRome Cooking school — Carol flattening the pasta

Making the Sauces

As he had all evening, Marco emphasized the importance of using just a few, top quality ingredients.

Amatriciana Sauce

The amatriciana sauce contains only three ingredients: Mutti tomato sauce (it only contains tomatoes grown in Italy, of course), small pieces of pork cheek that have been very slowly cooked to release the fat and flavor, and romano cheese.

Marco cooked the fettucine we’d just made for a very few minutes and then showed us how to combine the pasta with the three-ingredient sauce. The smell was amazing!

Cacio e pepe Sauce

This sauce is a Roman specialty and is the simplest of all. Only two ingredients are used–romano cheese and freshly ground pepper. That’s it! Marco demonstrated how he makes the sauce by stirring the starchy water from the boiled pasta into the cheese to make a rich, creamy sauce. He then added the fresh pepper. The result was to die for!

Chef Marco at InRome Cooking school making pasta — Making Amatriciana

Chef Marco at InRome Cooking school adding spaghetti to a sauce. — Making Cacio e pepe

Eating the Results

Following the demonstrations of how the pasta is combined with the two sauces to make Amatriciana and Cacio e pepe, we were invited into the adjacent dining room, complete with coffered, Renaissance style ceiling. I joined the table of Canadians and enjoyed pleasant conversation about travel and food while enjoying the fruits of the evening’s labors.

Rome Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Rome!

Conclusion

The three-hour cooking class (more like three and half by the time we finished eating) at InRome Cooking is a bargain at only €75 (price varies depending on which class you choose). Considering I enjoyed three delectable courses, learned a lot of valuable cooking tips and even got plenty of hands-on practice, I consider the fee very reasonable indeed.

Have you taken a cooking class in Rome? Share your experience in the comments below.

Favorite Concerts & Performances in Europe

February 17, 2022December 10, 2024Activities, Arts & Culture Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on December 10th, 2024 at 12:59 am

When it comes to concerts and performances, Europe is like a chocolate box brimming over with artsy flavors. Venues in every city and town showcase a wide range of musical styles, from classical to traditional to rock.

In addition to music concerts, you’ll find plenty of theater and dance performances, along with festivals and special events.

Gregg and I reminisce most often about the many wonderful performances we’ve enjoyed during our European travels. Some of our favorite memories are of performances we stumbled across, often as a result of chatting with local artists and fellow travelers, noticing posters and flyers, and checking out “What’s On” pages on local websites.

Gregg and I reflected in the ultra-modern façade of the Paris Philharmonie

Overview

While I’m always open to serendipity when it comes to choosing performances and concerts, I also believe in planning ahead. I suggest that as soon as you know the dates of your trip, go online and search for concerts, performances, festivals and other live events that will be on while you’re traveling.

A search for “musicals in London”, “classical concerts in Paris”, or “dance performances, Seville” should yield good results. You can also use generic searches such as “what’s on in Berlin” or “concerts in Vienna” and then narrow down the choices to focus on the music genres that interest you.

In this post, I share some of the memorable concerts and performances we’ve enjoyed, listed by city.

Amsterdam

One of Europe’s most beautiful concert halls is Amsterdam’s Concertgebouw, located across from the Museumplein. Free lunchtime concerts are held on Wednesdays in the small concert hall adjacent to the main hall.

On a recent visit to Amsterdam, we enjoyed a lively performance by two vibraphonists. Check the website to find out what’s on when you’re in Amsterdam. You’ll join locals and very few other tourists for a marvelous (and free!) musical experience.

Exterior of the Concertgebouw in Amsterdam, a great place to see concerts and performances in Europe — The Concertgebouw in Amsterdam

Barcelona

The Ópera y Flamenco performance at the astonishingly exquisite Palau de la Música Catalana is not to be missed. Even if Ópera y Flamenco is not playing when you’re visiting Barcelona, check out the Palau de la Música Catalana website to see what’s on and, if possible, get tickets. A visit to the Palau de la Música will quite simply blow your mind!

The magnificent stained glass at the Palau de la Música Catalana

Built between 1905 and 1908 by the modernist architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, the Palau de la Música Catalana is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you can’t get tickets to a performance, you can still take a tour of the building.

Berlin

If you’re a classical music fan, check out what’s on at the impressive home of the Berlin Philharmonic (Berlin Philharmoniker). The building itself is fabulous with wonderful acoustics and worth touring even if you can’t see a concert there. We enjoyed an awe-inspiring performance of Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring performed by the Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin.

Check out the concert calendar and buy tickets from the Berlin Philharmoniker website.

Cologne

While we usually book tickets well in advance, we’re always open to attending concerts on the spur of the moment. One such memorable concert was at the Kölner Philharmonie, a magnificent concert hall a stone’s throw from Cologne’s famous cathedral and in the same complex as the wonderful Ludwig Museum.

We had just finished visiting the Romano-Germanic-Museum (a must-see!) and were walking past the Kölner Philharmonie when we noticed a poster for the evening’s concert. The programme appealed to us and so we inquired at the box office about tickets. The very friendly, English-speaking attendant told us that tickets were available and at a price we considered incredibly reasonable, at least compared to what we were accustomed to paying in Vancouver.

Two hours later, we took our seats in one of the most dazzling modern concert halls I’d ever been in. Built in 1986, the Kölner Philharmonie is constructed like an amphitheatre and provides near-perfect acoustics. Even the size and padding of the seats have been selected to ensure constant acoustics regardless of whether the seat is occupied.

Check the Kölner Philharmonie website to see what’s on.

Leipzig

Marvelous Leipzig is a must-visit for classical music lovers, particularly if you adore (like I do!) the music of Johann Sebastian Bach. Read my post about our visit to the Bach Museum (I still swoon when I think of it!).

While in Leipzig, we attended a wonderful concert at the famed Gewandhaus where the young Clara Wieck (who became Clara Schumann and the inspiration for my second novel, A Woman of Note) debuted as a solo pianist in 1828. Many other famous musicians have played at Gewandhaus and for that reason I was curious to see a performance there.

Exterior of the Gewandhaus concert venue in Leipzig, Germany, a stunning venue for concerts and performances in Europe — Gewandhaus concert hall in Leipzig, Germany

The ultra-modern Gewandhaus concert hall is nothing like the venue Clara played in, and is, in fact, the third concert hall to bear the name Gewandhaus, the first being built in 1781, the second in 1884 (designed by famed architect Martin Gropius), and the current hall in 1981.

We snagged tickets to a solo piano concert of music by Mozart and Chopin. What a treat, and, at less than $30CDN per ticket, probably the best value for a concert I’ve ever enjoyed. At the interval, we thought the concert was over. The pianist had played for so long that we couldn’t imagine he’d be able to perform any longer. As we prepared to leave, a local woman came up to us and told us in careful English that it was only the break and that we needed to stay for the second half. Gratefully, we returned to the concert hall to enjoy another ninety minutes of jaw-dropping music performed by the very hard-working pianist.

Check the Gewandhaus website to see what’s on.

Lisbon

When you’re visiting Lisbon, make time for a fado performance (or two). We favor the smaller clubs with intimate performances over the more touristy offerings.

A fado guitar; see fado performances while traveling in Portugal

Our favorite place for fado in Lisbon is Restaurante Canto do Camões on Travessa da Espera in the Bairro Alto. It’s low-key, with a friendly owner, good food, reasonable prices, and lots of fado. When we were there, singers dropped in, performed a few songs designed to rip our hearts out, collected a few euros from the proprietor, and then left, presumably to go sing in another place. Sadly, Restaurante Canto do Camões is now closed permanently; however, you’ll find other small restaurants that feature fado in the Bairro Alto and the Alfama.

You can also see fado performances in Porto and Coimbra. In Porto, we loved the performance at the Casa da Guitarra, which also included a glass of port. In Coimbra, fado is only sung by men. We saw a troupe of men who sing wearing traditional costumes at À Capella, a 14th-century chapel that includes a bar and tapas with the live fado serenades.

Skyline of Coimbra in Portugal, a great place to hear fado — Coimbra is a charming town and a great place to enjoy fado

London

The first thing I do after booking a trip to London is check out what’s playing in the West End and what’s on at the National Theater and the Globe. I’ve enjoyed so many memorable performances in London, starting in the 1970s when I was a student at Reading University, a 40-minute train ride from the bright lights of the West End. In those days, performances in London were so reasonably priced that even a student could afford them! Even now, I find that prices for musicals in the West End are far below what I’ve paid in New York.

Go to the London Theatre website, see what’s on and get tickets well in advance. You can also take your chances during your trip and purchase last-minute tickets, often at a reduced rate. However, I don’t recommend doing this for a performance that you really want to see.

But if you are flexible and open to seeing what’s playing, you could well get lucky. On a trip to London in 2018, I got a ticket for Mamma Mia on the day of the performance for just 40 GBP.

Before going to the theater, enjoy an early dinner at one of the many restaurants in the West End advertising pre-theatre menus.

And while planning your entertainment options in London, don’t forget to check out what’s on at venues such as the Albert Hall and the Barbican Centre. Another option is the lunchtime and evening concerts at the achingly lovely St Martin-in-the-Fields near Trafalgar Square.

Exterior of Saint Martins-in-the-Fields in London, a venue for classical music concerts — Saint Martins-in-the-Fields next to Trafalgar Square in London hosts classical music concerts

Paris

We love going to concerts in Paris. Spectacular venues such as the Opéra Bastille, the Paris Philharmonie and Sainte-Chapelle enhance the musical experiences, and the quality of the performances is always first-rate. Here are just a few of the venues to check out, particularly if you are a classical music lover.

Opéra Bastille

Seeing an opera in Paris is definitely a cool experience, and one that we hope to repeat as restrictions continue to lift. One of our most memorable opera experiences was seeing Götterdämmerung at the Opéra Bastille. Talk about mind-exploding!

Exterior of the Opera Bastille in Paris, a stunning venue for concerts and performances in Europe — Opéra Bastille in Paris

The Opéra national de Paris presents operas at two venues—the ultra chic and modern Opéra Bastille and the sumptuously decorated and historic Opéra Garnier. Check the website for the Opéra national de Paris.

Paris Philharmonie

The Philharmonie de Paris is just breathtaking! Located in Parc de la Villette in the northeast of Paris, the Philharmonie is a complex of buildings that also house exhibition spaces and rehearsal rooms. We attended a performance in the symphonic concert hall—a 2,400-seat über-modern venue designed by Jean Nouvel and opened in January 2015. It was a stunning experience.

Check the website for upcoming performances and events.

Piano Concerts at Église Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre

Located just across the Seine from Notre-Dame Cathedral in the 5^th arrondissement, the Église Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is one of the oldest churches in Paris. Concerts featuring either solo piano or duos (e.g., violin and piano or cello and piano) are frequently held there—and they are well worth attending. We’ve been to several. Tickets are reasonably priced, the venue is deliciously ancient and atmospheric, and the quality of the playing is first-rate.

Exterior of Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre in the 5th arrondisement in Paris, across the Seine from Notre-Dame Cathedral. The church is a lovely venue for concerts and performances in Europe. — Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is just across the Seine from Notre-Dame Cathedral

Check the website for upcoming concerts and keep an eye out for posters in the area (that’s how we discovered what was on).

Sainte-Chapelle Concerts

Fancy spending an hour or two staring up at sublimely beautiful stained glass supported by impossibly slender columns while listening to sublimely beautiful classical music? Then check out the website for Sainte-Chapelle’s concerts and purchase tickets for a performance. You won’t be disappointed!

Imagine listening to music surrounded by this view!

We’ve enjoyed several concerts at Sainte-Chapelle and have always been transported into ever higher planes of awesomeness. A favorite evening out is to enjoy the performance at 7 pm and then to wander starry-eyed through the cobbled streets of Île de la Cité to Île Saint-Louis and dine at one of the many small bistros in the area. Artsy traveling doesn’t get much better!

Seville

We’re firm fans of flamenco. See my post describing the flamenco performance we enjoyed on our first visit to Seville. In Seville, you can see flamenco at several venues. I recommend two.

Flamenco Museum

From the website, purchase the combo ticket that includes the museum and a late afternoon flamenco performance that will leave you breathless.

Los Gallos

Situated in a charming little courtyard in the heart of Seville, Los Gallos is an intimate venue with world-class talent. Sip the Sangria included in the ticket price and prepare to be blasted into the stratosphere.

Stratford-upon-Avon

Every time I visit England, I do my best to squeeze in a trip to Stratford-upon-Avon to see a performance by the Royal Shakespeare Company. I have been fortunate to see many wondrous performances there, including productions of Romeo and Juliet and Hamlet that both starred the incomparable David Tennant.

When I was a student at Reading University, a two-hour drive southeast of Stratford-upon-Avon, I frequently made the trek to see a performance. I was studying for a degree in English Literature so taking in as many Shakespeare productions as possible was almost mandatory.

You can see Shakespeare productions at the Globe in London and the experience is highly recommended. However, I must admit that I prefer the productions at Stratford-upon-Avon. The seating is more comfortable, and the quality is top-notch. I liken seeing a production by the Royal Shakespeare Company as the auditory equivalent of looking at high-quality cut crystal. Every word and gesture is crisp and perfect.

When you go up to Stratford-upon-Avon to slake your Shakespeare yen, you also get the bonus of having time to wander the charming streets of Stratford. Sure, it’s a bit touristy, but so what? I love touring Shakespeare’s birthplace, paying my respects at his grave in the church, and watching the swans glide by on the River Avon.

Exterior of Shakespeare's home in Stratford-upon-Avon in England — Shakespeare’s birthplace in Stratford-upon-Avon

In August 2022, I’ll be visiting Stratford-upon-Avon again, this time to catch a performance of Richard III. Although admittedly not my favorite of Shakespeare’s History plays, I know I’ll see a production to remember.

Visit the RSC’s website for details about upcoming productions in Stratford-upon-Avon and London.

Venice

On one visit to Venice, we were strolling through the quiet streets after dark when we noticed a young man dressed in 18^th-century garb and carrying a violin case hurry past. We caught up to him and asked if he was a musician. He told us he was on his way to play a concert of 17^th- and 18^th-century music in a church. Did we like music like that?

Is Vivaldi Venetian?

Yes!

We followed him to the church and half an hour later were sitting beneath a mural painted by Titian and listening to a selection of Venetian classical music favorites. Bliss! The orchestra was clad in 18^th-century garb and the performance was obviously aimed at tourists, but that didn’t affect the quality of the musicianship or the depth of our enjoyment.

A mask and violin representing music in Venice, a place with many venues for concerts and performances — Hearing Baroque music in Venice just makes sense!

After the concert, we floated out into a warm evening to find ourselves moments later at the edge of the Grand Canal. A barge filled with another group of musicians in period dress slid past, the music wafting through the balmy air like the rustling of silk stockings.

Magical!

In Venice, several venues feature classical music concerts. Check out the Music in Venice website for programs and dates.

Verona

The Arena di Verona, the Roman amphitheatre in Verona, Italy, periodically presents operas to hundreds of fans who are mostly perched on the edge of very hard, very ancient Roman stone steps. We know because several years ago, we were such fans. To read about an evening that has become synonymous with disaster in our family, check out Meltdown in Verona.

Our experience aside, attending a performance at the Roman arena in Verona could be the magical experience we’d expected. The detailed RM Europa Tickets website contains information about all the opera festivals in Europe in 2022. You’ll find opera festivals in almost all European countries, along with a detailed list of venues and schedules, including the Arena di Verona.

The Arena di Verona, a venue for grand operas and other concerts and performances in Italy — Arena di Verona

Vienna

You can’t walk two feet in Vienna’s Stephansplatz without tripping over a bewigged young person trying to sell you tickets to a performance of Strauss, Mozart, or both. Vienna has several venues featuring tourist-oriented shows designed to showcase the oldie goldies of several of its most famous composers, particularly Johann Strauss.

The last time I visited Vienna, traveling solo, I attended a delightful string quartet concert at the gorgeous Sala Terrena, an intimate and heavily decorated venue in the center of the city. Mozart allegedly lived in the building in which the Sala Terrena is housed when he first came to Vienna as a young man. While you wait for the concert to begin, feast your eyes on the riotous Baroque frescoes and look out especially for the leopard! For more about my experience at the Sala Terrena concert, check out my post on Music in Vienna.

Interior of the Sala Terrena in Vienna, a charming venue for classical concerts and performances — Some of the frescoes at the Sala Terrena in Vienna

On the same trip to Vienna, I took the tram and then a bus out to Schloss Laudon (Water Palace) in the bucolic countryside surrounding Vienna to attend a concert that was part of the five-day Schloss Laudon festival. I discovered the festival while planning my trip to Vienna and was very glad I managed to snag a ticket for a performance that featured an early Beethoven piano trio in the style of Haydn and a marvelous rendition of Tchaikovsky’s piano trio.

Hamburg

In Hamburg, get tickets to see a performance at the ultra-modern Elbphilharmonie, one of the world’s most stunning concert halls.

Conclusion

Before you travel, check websites for venues and performance times and budget as much money as you can spare for live entertainment. You’ll be making memories that last a lifetime.

And keep a lookout for local folk performances that are often free, with some even encouraging participation. You’ll typically find these advertised in flyers and on posters. Watch a flag-waving demonstration by young people dressed in medieval garb in Siena, dance the Sardana in front of Barcelona Cathedral along with hundreds of locals and tourists, watch a concert featuring ancient instruments in a tiny chapel in Les Baux de Provence, and more!

Keep your eyes and ears open; you never know what’s around the next corner.

Statue featuring several figures dancing the Sardana, a traditional dance in Barcelona, Spain — Statue commemorating the Sardana in Barcelona

Have you attended concerts while traveling in Europe? Share your experiences and recommendations in the Comments below. Here are some more posts that feature information about concert-going in Europe:

What is Experiential Travel?

Connect Directly with Local Artists

Connecting with Artists Through Social Media

Visiting an Artist

Purchasing Artwork from a Local Artist

My Meeting with Silvia Salvadori in Arezzo, Italy

Attend Art Openings to Connect with Local Artists

A Note About Language

Go to Multiple Art Openings on “Opening” Nights

Take a Workshop or Class to Connect with Local Artists

Finding Workshops and Classes

Attend an Artist Residency

My Experience at an Artist Residency

Check Out Studio Tours

Book a Multi-day Art Tour

Sign Up for an Art Walking Tour

Conclusion

Arrival at Savor Nafplio Cooking Class

Main Course: Lamb Bogana

Appetizer: Beef-Stuffed Zucchini

Tomato Salad with Cucumber Soup

Orange Pie

Dining at Savor Nafplio

Booking a Class at Savor Nafplio Cooking

Cooking Classes in Greece

Conclusion

About The Writers’ Retreat

Day 1: Monday Arrival

Meeting My Fellow Writers

Sue

JoJo Stone

Ann

First Evening

My Project for the Week

Day 2: Tuesday

Meet Clare Bamber – Mentor Extraordinaire

Where to Find Clare Bamber

Workshop: Character Creation

Country Walks

Day 3: Wednesday

Some of the Participants Hard at Work

Day 4: Thursday

Workshop: Writing Descriptions

Day 5: Friday

Workshop: Writing Emotion

Day 6: Saturday

Workshop: Writing Dialogue

Should You Go On A Writers’ Retreat?

Conclusion

Related Posts

My Rome Colosseum History

Should You Visit Rome and Not Go to the Colosseum?

Signing Up for a Colosseum Tour: Smart Idea or ?

Finding the Tour

Waiting to Enter the Colosseum

Buying a Ticket to the Colosseum

My Turn Getting Tickets for the Colosseum

Starting the Tour of the Colosseum–Almost

Security Line at the Colosseum

Entering the Colosseum

Not Everyone Loves Rome

Climbing to the Top of the Colosseum

Is A Guided Tour of the Rome Colosseum Worth the Wait?

Touring the Colosseum On Your Own

When To Visit the Colosseum

Tours of the Colosseum

Other Sites in Rome

My Favorite Activity in Rome

Accommodation Options in Rome

More Tour Options for the Colosseum

Walking Tours of Rome

Conclusion

Posts About Rome

Choosing a Class in Rome

EnjoyCooking.com with Crown Tours

Arrival at EnjoyCooking.com

Chef Marco!

Gelato Making

Suppli Making

Pizza Making