The Roman Baths in Bath, England, is the city’s foremost must-see attraction. If you only have time to visit one historic site in Bath, make it the Roman Baths. It’s small enough to enjoy in about an hour, includes an excellent audio guide, and is enlivened by numerous projections of Roman-clad people going about their bathing business.
In September 2024, I visited the Roman Baths for a third time and loved it just as much as I had in 2008 and 2018.
Arrival
I arrive outside the Pump Room that houses the Roman Baths to find quite a crowd gathered and signs indicating which time slot is currently being accommodated. Oh dear! I forgot to take my own advice and book in advance! I ask the person marshaling the crowd if I needed to book, and she promptly stands aside and motions for me to walk right in, bypassing the long line. I don’t stop to question my good fortune.
The admission price is a steep £27—and that’s the Seniors’ rate (a whole pound off the Adult rate). But that’s okay. I’m always happy to support museums that really deliver memorable visitor experiences.
Audio Guide
The price includes an audio guide with two tracks. The regular one provides the usual historical context in short and interesting installments. The children’s track includes first-person accounts by the many characters that wander across screens projected throughout the museum. I alternate between the adult and children’s tracks. Both are excellent.
Touring the Baths
The clearly signposted route starts at the walkway surrounding the baths. This structure and the statues of various Roman bigwigs are Victorian additions that were built atop the Roman ruins to house the museum when it opened in the late 19th century.
The walkway is a delightful space surrounded by warm Bath stone and with the façade of Bath Abbey looming in the background. Below are the deep green waters of the main pool. Bath has been a mecca for health-seekers for two millennia.
View of the main pool from the top walkwayView of Bath Abbey from the top walkway
Hot Springs History
I learn that Bath is the only place in the entire country that has hot springs—three of them. No wonder people have been coming here for millennia.
Before the Romans arrived, the local Dobunni tribe considered the site sacred and was where they worshiped the goddess Sulis. In those days, the heated natural spring was a bubbling, steaming pool surrounded by a thick swamp. When the Romans arrived, they incorporated worship of Sulis into their own pantheon and so transformed her into Sulis Minerva. The Romans were generally “equal opportunity” when it came to accommodating other religions, so long as the people practicing them rendered unto Caesar the necessary taxes.
The Roman legionnaires who first conquered the area must have been very happy to have found a place where they could soak their weary bones in warm water in the midst of a Great Britain winter.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, Bath developed into one of the world’s most fashionable watering holes. Everyone who was anyone came here to take the waters. Jane Austen herself bathed here.
Museum Exhibits
The tour leads back indoors and descends through several rooms full of artfully displayed exhibits about the Romans. Enlivening the experience are screens projecting a selection of Roman people who would have frequented the baths back in the day. It’s a clever way to bring history to life and makes me feel like I’m witnessing it firsthand.
I listen to a blacksmith on the audio guide while watching a screen showing him hard at work making armor.
Projection of a Roman blacksmith
The Baths
The exhibits give way to a series of walkways leading across the remains of the various rooms in the Roman Baths. The Romans took their health seriously. There are rooms for getting massaged and plucked (apparently, the Romans weren’t keen on body hair), rooms for bathing in various water temperatures, and even a gymnasium where Romans got good and sweaty in humid air that still smells of sulfur.
Projection of Roman woman preparing to bathe
The ruins themselves don’t photograph particularly well. Here’s one room showing the bricks that would have been under the floor to supply the heating. The audio commentary provides details about the impressive heating and cooling mechanisms. The Romans certainly knew how to engineer.
Ruins of the heating system
Minerva Sulis
One of the most striking artifacts on display is the gilt bronze head of the goddess Sulis Minerva. It’s a rare and beautiful example of ancient craftsmanship.
Bust of the goddess Sulis Minerva
Outside next to the large pool sits a Roman-clad guide. She acknowledges me with a regal nod when I take her picture. I’m unsure if she’s meant to speak or if her job is to sit by the pool all day and have her picture taken.
A Roman watches the crowds go by
Rome Walking Tours
GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of city Rome!
Tours and Tickets
Here are some tours and ticket options to consider when touring Bath.
Conclusion
Ruins can be challenging to enjoy because they are, well, ruins. The Roman Baths manages to bring the stony vestiges of a once great Roman hangout to life with its thoughtful use of projections and audio commentary.
As you exit the museum, you can enjoy a cupful of the medicinal waters to give you energy for more Bath sightseeing.
In 2024, the Roman Baths are open from 9 am to 10 pm from July 20 to August 31, and from 9 am to 6 pm from September 1 to December 31. Buy your tickets online from the museum’s website.
Have you visited the Roman Baths? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.
Exploring the Area
Here are some GetYourGuide tours in southern England.
This must-see museum of thoughtfully curated exhibits showcases the history of rural life in England. Eight galleries and an impressive open storage area present artifacts and commentary related to the traditions and challenges related to food production in the English countryside.
I spent a wonderful afternoon with associate director Isabel Hughes, who graciously answered my many questions about the museum and then took me on a guided tour.
This place is a real Artsy Traveler find! And fair warning: this is a LONG post because there is just so much to write about.
Some Background
A few decades ago, I lived in Reading for three years while attending the University of Reading to earn my BA in English Language and Literature. I hadn’t returned to Reading since I graduated, so on a recent trip to England from my home near Vancouver, BC, I decided to make Reading my first stop after landing at Heathrow.
I wasn’t sure what I planned to do during my one afternoon in Reading, so I googled museums and discovered the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) run by my alma mater, the University of Reading. I had never heard of MERL, although Isabel told me the museum was established in 1951 and did indeed exist when I attended the university in the 1970s. In 2004, the museum moved to its spacious new digs in the former St. Andrew’s Hall, one of the student residences that was around during my time at the university.
Since its expansion, MERL has established itself as one of the United Kingdom’s premier destinations at which to learn about English rural life.
Why I Wanted to Visit the Museum of English Rural Life
I decided to visit MERL for two reasons. First, it’s a niche museum and as such is a perfect candidate for featuring on Artsy Traveler. Although I often write about blockbuster museums such as the Rijksmuseum, National Gallery of London, and the Uffizi, my heart beats particularly fast when I discover an off-the-beaten-track museum that my readers may not know about, and that fits with my interests.
The second reason I wanted to visit MERL is because one of my works in progress (a novel titled Mill Song) is partially set in Devon in the 1880s. Eliza, my main character, must move with her family from a bucolic rural life in Devon to the “dark, satanic mills” of northern England where most of the novel takes place. In the scenes set in Devon, I wanted to sprinkle in a few more details about rural life that I hoped I’d find at MERL.
And I wasn’t disappointed! This museum is a hidden gem—and admission is free!
Arrival at the Museum of English Rural Life
A few hours prior to visiting MERL, I land at Heathrow after a smooth eight-hour flight from Vancouver. Twenty minutes after deplaning, I’m standing, phone in hand, searching for my Uber. Most of that time has been taken up with long, long walks through long, long corridors, many rides up and down long escalators and a two-minute wait to go through the electronic customs kiosk.
Since my flight has arrived an hour early, I take the Uber to my hotel before heading to the museum. I’m staying at the Hotel Malmaison (#1 on the map) in downtown Reading, which I highly recommend. After freshening up, I decide to walk the 22 minutes from the hotel to MERL (#2). Here’s a map of Reading:
Along the way, I expect to take a few jaunts down memory lane, but alas, it isn’t to be. Nothing looks the same as I remember from the 1970s—not even close. The Reading skyline bristles with new buildings designed by architects who likely hadn’t been born when I was studying at the university.
When I lived in Reading, there was hardly anywhere to get coffee, much less enjoy a meal. We existed on copious amounts of strong tea; coffee bars were unheard of. And as for eating out, it just wasn’t done, or at least very rarely. Now, every other establishment in Reading serves food, or so it seems as I stroll through the downtown area.
Along the way, I cross over the Kennett-Avon canal which looks serene and well-groomed in the late August sunshine.
Kennett-Avon canal in Reading
When I arrive at MERL, associate director Isabel Hughes meets me and, over a very welcome cup of tea, we start our chat.
The Interview
Here’s a summary of my interview with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) at the University of Reading in England.
Carol
What is the purpose of the Museum of English Rural Life?
Isabel
The purpose of the museum is to present exhibits and objects that help visitors understand the human side of English rural life: the production of food, farming practices since the 19th century, and the changing countryside. We like to present the human side of rural life and really celebrate working people since the vast majority of people in the 19th century and into the 20th century either worked on the land or in mills, or were servants.
Farming practices began to change in the late 19th century because of the agricultural depression caused by wheat production in Canada.
Carol
That’s very interesting because in my novel Mill Song, my main character’s family moves from Devon because there is no more farm labor work for the men. I thought it was because of mechanization that jobs became scarce, but there was also an agricultural depression. It’s interesting that Canada was to blame! A lot of people, including many of my ancestors, emigrated from a rural life in the West Country to Canada during the 19th century.
Isabel
MERL was started by the Agriculture Department at the University of Reading in 1951. World War II had ended and there was a push to make agriculture more self-sufficient and productive with the use of insecticides and the development of large farms. But as a result, traditional farming practices were being lost.
The founders of the museum realized this and decided to collect items such as old wagons and hand tools. They went to agricultural shows and talked to farmers, and acquired examples of traditional crafts such as basketry, woodworking, and bodging (making things such as brooms and chairs out of unseasoned green wood).
In 2004, the museum moved to its present location in the former St. Andrew’s Hall of residence, helped in part by funding from Alfred Palmer, a well-known Reading businessperson.
Carol
I well remember taking my exams at Reading University in the Palmer Building! He was quite the benefactor.
What is your number one recommendation for touring the Museum of English Rural Life?
Isabel
We like people to have a wander and see it all. The huge collection of wagons is particularly impressive. We have wagons from almost every county in England.
One of the many wagons at MERL, this one from Dorset
People can explore the eight galleries and then go upstairs to view our open storage of the thousands of items the museum has collected over the years.
Attached to each artifact is a luggage label; these were the original labels affixed when the artifact was acquired by the museum.
A large collection of farm implements in the open storage area of the museum
Another thing that we want people to notice is the textile wall hanging created for the Countryside Pavilion at the Festival of Britain in 1951. It was one of several we acquired. The one on display depicts Cheshire and cheese production.
An enormous wall hanging featuring Cheshire and cheese production
Carol
What is your favorite exhibit and why?
Isabel
I think my favorite is a pitchfork that was grown in a hedgerow. A branch growing off the shrub was nurtured until it was just the right size and shape for a pitchfork.
It’s made by nature but guided by hand.
Isabel’s favorite, a pitchfork grown from a hedgerow
Carol
What are some of the hidden gems that visitors should check out at MERL?
Isabel
The display of friendly society pole heads is intriguing. A friendly society was a cooperative that workers bought into. If they had a rough time, then the cooperative could help to support them. The pole heads were elaborately carved and resembled pub signs. They were carried in processions such as church parades.
Some of the silver pole heads in the MERL collection
Carol
Is The Museum of English Rural Life the only rural museum in England?
Isabel
It is one of the earliest museums but not the only one. There is a rural museum network that includes small community museums. Other large museums like MERL are the National Museum of Rural Life in Scotland and the St. Fagan’s National Museum of History in Wales. There is also the Weald and Downland Living Museum near Chichester, which is where Repair Shop is filmed. We like to think of MERL as the national rural museum for England, but it is not, officially.
Carol
What is the most popular gift shop item?
Isabel
We’ve had images from the wall hangings turned into merchandise such as mugs, pencil cases, notebooks, tea towels and bags. We also have tea towels depicting engineering drawings of farm machinery, which are very popular with enthusiasts who are interested in recreating rural farm machinery.
Carol
Are any new exhibits planned at the Museum of English Rural Life?
Isabel
We have quite a few artifacts related to the Roma people that are often not labeled as such. These include photographs of people working the land, and a gypsy wagon. We are starting to re-label these artifacts to feature the history of the Roma people in the English countryside.
A gypsy wagon at the Museum of English Rural Life
Carol
Anything else you’d like to share?
Isabel
At MERL, we have an extensive library and archives containing a wealth of stories. Of particular note is our archive of letters that children evacuees during World War II sent to their parents when they were evacuated from the cities to the countryside. Reading was one of the hubs for evacuee children. Some of the letters were positive, depicting the experience as active and fun, while others were from children who were upset and even mistreated.
The labels affixed to the children when they were put on the train to go into the countryside inspired Michael Bond to write the Paddington Bear books in the 1950s.
A group of children being evacuated from the city during World War II
Touring the Museum
After our chat, Isabel takes me around the museum. Seeing it after talking with her really brings it to life. Throughout the galleries are interactive activities for children. MERL has an active school program and welcomes over 50,000 visitors a year, likely a good proportion of them families.
I love the sheep clad in an Aran sweater in the first main gallery.
A large stuffed sheep wearing an Aran sweater greets visitors to the first large gallery
The size of MERL surprises me. The galleries go on forever, each one more chock-a-block with artifacts than the last. You can spend a lot of time here!
One of the very large galleries at the Museum of English Rural Life
Land Girls
I’m particularly taken by the exhibits related to the Land Girls—young women who worked on the farms during World War II. Here are photographs of several Land Girls and the uniform they wore.
Land Girls in World War IILand Girls uniform in World War II
The Land Girls experience inspired Land Girls, a British TV series available on Netflix.
Traps
A sobering exhibit features various traps—both for animals and people. The two human traps are particularly horrifying. Anyone caught in one would likely die a very slow and painful death. These traps were placed to prevent poaching.
Human traps, fortunately outlawed in 1827.
We spend almost an hour roaming through the galleries and viewing the open storage collections on the first floor. I’m very impressed with both the size and the quality of the exhibits and am reminded how, in another life, I would have loved to have been a museum curator.
But being a novelist and travel blogger is also good—and MERL ticks the boxes on both fronts. I’m finding plenty of inspiration for the country scenes in Mill Song. The open storage collection of smocks, many beautifully embellished with traditional smocking, reminds me of what some of my characters may have worn. I can also imagine my main character wearing a bonnet, such as the ones displayed, while she helped with the harvest.
These smocks were likely worn for special occasionsBonnets in open storage
New Inspiration
To my delight, MERL sparks inspiration for a new novel based around the story of two evacuees in World War II. After my meeting with Isabel, I scribble several pages of notes about possible characters and plots. It looks like I’m going to have to return to MERL to comb through their extensive archive of letters written by evacuees during World War II.
I can only imagine what treasures await.
As the museum gets set to close, Isabel and I pose for a photo, I purchase a notebook that shows a detail from the Cheshire wall hanging, and say my good-byes.
Carol Cram with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life
I walk back to my hotel, enjoy an excellent dinner, and then, finally, turn the lights out at 9. My first day in the UK has been a success.
Exploring the Area
Here are some GetYourGuide tours in southern England. Most depart from London.
The Museum of English Rural Life is a specialty museum with broad appeal. Touring a museum dedicated to how food was produced back in the day reminds us of our rural roots–and everyone eats food! No matter where you come from, chances are good that at least a few of your ancestors had something to do with agriculture.
The Museum of English Rural Life is open from 10 am to 5 pm daily and entrance is free. It is located at 6 Redlands Road in Reading, Berkshire. The museum’s extensive website showcases its many exhibits.
Have you visited this museum or another like it? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.
The Keats-Shelley House is nestled right next to the world famous Spanish Steps in Rome. Thousands of visitors mill around the piazza in front of the steps, climb the steps, and take pictures of the steps.
Yes, the steps really are very attractive–lots of flowers and a striking two-tower church at the top.
But in the end, the steps are, well, steps. If you go to the Spanish Steps, take a quick pic and then veer right to visit the lovely little Keats-Shelley House. You’re in for a first-rate Artsy Traveler experience.
Literary Leanings
If you’ve been reading the Artsy Traveler blog for awhile, you probably know that I write mostly arts-inspired historical novels. My first three novels feature a painter (The Towers of Tuscany), a composer (A Woman of Note), and an actress (The Muse of Fire). So, as a novelist, I’m a lover of literature, and what could be more literary than two of the greatest Romantic poets?
Also, back in the day when I went to university in England, I took my degree in English Literature. As a result, I studied a lot of poetry, particularly by Shelley. So to enter rooms where Keats and Shelley hung out, really is a pilgrimage.
Touring the Keats-Shelley House
The Keats-Shelley House is extremely easy to find thanks to its location next to the Spanish Steps. You’ll also see the banner hanging outside. The Keats-Shelley House is open from 10 to 1 and 2 to 6, and includes a special rate for seniors.
The ticket person got on my good side by telling us we didn’t qualify for the senior’s rate because it’s only for people over 65. Awww. That was kind of her. But needless to say, I corrected her and got the reduced rate.
You enter the museum and climb to the first floor where you’ll find the tiny gift shop (more on that later) and the ticket taker. After paying the entrance fee, turn right to tour a series of beautiful rooms containing a great many treasures and curiosities associated with the lives and works of several of the Romantic poets and their associates.
You’ll see letters written by Keats, Shelley, Bryon, Mary Shelley, Wordsworth, and other luminaries from the time. The evenness of their penmanship puts most modern folks to shame! Also on display are drawings, snippets of poetry, paintings, and other memorabilia. The explanations are clear and informative.
Why The Poets Loved Italy
Back in the 18th and 19th centuries, with a decade or two off during the beginning of the 19th century for the Napoleonic Wars, Italy was a mecca for poets and writers from northern climes, including the Romantic poets from England, and Goethe from Germany. These writers loved Italy’s warm weather, easy-going life, and the inspiration to be found in so many centuries of history. What attracted them to Italy back then isn’t so very different from what attracts me to Italy today.
It’s a very special country with so much to offer. No wonder I keep coming back year after year!
Rooms in the Keats-Shelley House
The rooms in the Keats-Shelley House include a library of more than 8,000 volumes. It’s considered one of the finest libraries of Romantic literature in the world. Thoughtfully presented displays provide you with a lot to read as you prowl around the rooms. You could spend a great deal of time here!
The tour through the rooms ends at the tiny bedroom where John Keats died on February 23, 1821 at the age of just 25. It’s astonishing how he was able to compose so much sublime poetry in so few years. The museum includes plenty of information in English and Italian about Keats, his life, his tragic death, and of course his poetry.
Was it a vision, or a waking dream? Fled is that music:—Do I wake or sleep?
From Ode to a Nightingale
Here is the bed on which Keats died.
Byron’s Bicentenary
At first, I was mystified by the several banners related to Byron on display in the main library. After all, it’s the Keats-Shelley House. The very friendly and knowledgeable attendant told us that the House is celebrating the Bicentenary of Byron’s death in 1824.
His poetry is figured prominently on red banners. I haven’t read Byron for many years, so it was a real treat to reacquaint myself with some of his poetry.
We had a great chat with the attendant about the poets, Mary Shelley and her mum Mary Wollstonecraft, and the arts in general. I mentioned that I’d interviewed Samantha Silva, author of Love and Fury about Mary Wollstonecraft on The Art In Fiction Podcast. Since the attendant was obviously interested in the era, I figured she may want to read the novel (highly recommended, by the way). She was delighted to learn about it and promised to look up the podcast.
I also told her about my novels and gave her one of my bookmarks because, well, marketing.
The Terrace
A highlight of a visit to the Keats-Shelley House is walking out on to the sweet little terrace overlooking the Spanish Steps. Imagine Keats and the gang sitting out there on a warm May afternoon sipping tea and talking poetry! It’s pretty cool to think that the view Keats saw wasn’t all that dissimilar to the view we see today.
The house included drawings of the Piazza Spagna and the steps in the early 19th century, and indeed, not much has changed if you look above the ground floor shops.
The Gift Shop
After thoroughly enjoying touring the rooms, we exited via the gift shop. I couldn’t resist buying myself a cloth bag with a Grecian Urn on it, homage to Keats’s Ode to a Grecian Urn. I also studied the collection of fridge magnets. We’ve taken to buying them most places we visit. Back home, our fridge door is getting pretty full up, but there’s always room for one more, or in this case, three.
I couldn’t decide which magnet to buy–Keats, Shelley, or Bryon–and so I bought all three. Here they are–Keats on the left, Shelley in the middle, and Byron on the right. These guys were all in the twenties and early thirties when they were hanging out together, and all three died young. They’re a bit like the rock stars of their time–living with unbridled passion and energy that burned out quickly, but wow, what a legacy they each left in their wake!
Conclusion
Have you visited the Keats-Shelley House in Rome? What did you think Share your impressions in the comments below for other Artsy Travelers.
Artsy Tours in Rome
I couldn’t find any literary-themed tours in Rome on Get Your Guide, so here’s a selection of tours related to music and also a tour of locations mentioned in Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code series. Note that I include tours listed on the Get Your Guide website because I’ve taken and enjoyed many of their tours. Also, full disclosure, if you click on any tour below to go to the Get Your Guide website and purchase a tour (any tour), I get a small commission. Thank you!
Naples has long been on my list of places to visit, mostly because I wanted to tour the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli aka the National Archaeological Museum of Naples aka MANN, and then visit Pompeii.
Both Gregg and I had visited Pompeii twice each–Gregg in 1958 when he was eleven, me in 1974 when I was 18 and then together with our daughter in 1994. In all those trips, we’d never managed to visit the National Archaeological Museum in Naples. We came close in 1994 when we took a taxi from our hotel to the museum on our way to Pompeii only to find it closed. In those pre-Google days, I’d neglected to read the guide book.
So we were determined to finally see MANN because we’d heard that it housed the vast majority of the art excavated from Pompeii and Herculaneum.
See the National Archaeological Museum of Naples First!
Now that I’ve toured MANN, I can without hesitation recommend that you go there first and then tour Pompeii. As you’ll discover, Pompeii is pretty much all ruins (quel surprise!) with the vast majority of the frescoes, mosaics, and statues long ago removed to the National Archaelogical Museum in Naples.
Also, to be honest, wandering around Pompeii in the heat (we visited in late April and it was 30 degrees) with thousands of other visitors is not as comfortable an experience as strolling through room after room in the thoughtfully air conditioned museum.
Overview of the National Archaelogical Museum in Naples
So let’s get started! In this post, I’ll share some of my favorite parts of the National Archaelogical Museum in Naples (MANN) with the proviso that the museum is chock-a-block with amazing objects. I’ve rarely seen such a beautifully appointed museum where just about every item in it was worth a stop and a good long look.
MANN is large, but not overwhelming. You can easily tour it in about two to three hours, depending on your energy level. MANN also has a cafe so you can take a break for refueling after touring a floor or two. We did, and it made all the difference to our enjoyment of the museum.
Exterior of the National Archaelogical Museum of Naples
When we toured MANN in late April, the crowds were light (unlike the next day in Pompeii!) and we waited only a few minutes to buy tickets. In busier times of the year, you may want to skip the ticket line by buying your tickets online from the museum’s website or through resellers such as Get Your Guide.
The museum is organized according to type of art, so you’ll find rooms full of sculptures, mosaics, everyday objects salvaged from Pompeii, frescoes, and coins. We saw most of what was on display in the sculpture, mosaic, everyday objects, and fresco areas. The quality of the work is awe-inspiring.
I suggest starting with the sculptures on the ground floor and then going to the top floor and working your way down. We find doing so minimizes stair climbs (there’s an elevator to whisk you to the second floor) and conserves energy.
Sculptures
Start with sculptures because they are the first things you see when you enter the museum. Wowza! They are stunning. I didn’t expect to see so many really large sculptures that looked like they were chiseled yesterday when in fact they were almost 2000 years old.
Here’s a selection of my favorites.
Hercules at Rest
Even big guys like Hercules can use some time off now and again. This massive sculpture of old Herc shows him leaning on his club. The sculpture is a Roman copy from the end of the 2nd/beginning of the 3rd Century CE of a Greek statue from the second half of the 4th century BCE. The subject of Hercules at rest is a very popular one. It shows him exhausted and pensive after having undertaken yet another labor for his cousin Eurytheus.
While the top half of Hercules sags with fatigue, his legs and feet still look dynamic, as if he was ready to spring into action (yet again) at any moment. The sheer size of the statue took my breath away–and it’s just one of many dozens of sculptures in MANN.
Dog Sculptures
Large sculptures dominate the rooms, but they are by no means the only sculptures worth admiring at MANN. Here are three incredibly charming sculptures of Roman pooches. They look like they could come to life at any minute and run toward you, tails wagging.
Athena
Athena is the Goddess of Wisdom, along with warfare and handicrafts. The next time you pick up a knitting project, call on Athena for some extra guidance! This sculpture (bigger than can possibly be portrayed in a photo) really shows off Athena’s robes in all their pleated glory.
Bust of a Woman
I don’t know who this is but I love her hair! At least I think the bust is of a woman’s head. She looks a bit careworn, perhaps from having to cope with all those corkscrew locks every day. I also loved the black stone used–an interesting break from the predominantly cream-colored marble used to create most of the other sculptures in MANN.
It’s hard to believe this sculpture dates back two millennia. Like most of the sculptures in MANN, the bust is in near perfect shape.
Petite Figure
This small statuette of a child is one of several equally adorable pieces. You can understand how the artists descended from the ones who sculpted these pieces came up with cupids! The pieces look incredibly lifelike.
Everyday Objects
For me, a highlight of the MANN collection is the vast array of household and everyday objects that were salvaged from Pompeii during excavations that began in the late 18th century. Many of the objects were remarkably preserved–pots, glassware, small statues of household gods, combs, jewelry, cooking utensils–you name it.
The ancient Roman versions of pretty much everything humans need to cook, clean, and live in houses is on display. It turns out that Romans aren’t all that different from us when it comes to the stuff they had in their houses. Take away our electronics and indoor plumbing, and we’re left with similar objects to those used by the average Pompeii resident: wine bottles, cooking pots, jewelry, cups, combs, chairs, and the like.
Here are some particularly fine examples of the household objects salvaged from the ruins of both Herculaneum and Pompeii.
Glass Cup
Can you believe this cup is 2000 years old? I was astonished to see it in the display, but yup, according to the description. the object is a “so-called millefiori ribbon small cup” from Pompeii in the 1st century CE. It looks like something I could buy today in Venice.
Terracotta Frog
Is this little guy not the sweetest thing? It’s a statuette of a frog made from lead-glazed terracotta. I’m not sure what he was used for, but he sure caught my eye. And he was just one of many, many such objects artfully displayed in room after well-lit room at MANN.
Deep Wine Cup
Look at the handiwork on this lead-glazed terracotta wine cup! It’s decorated with vegetable motifs and doves. Imagine drinking your wine out of that!
Cosmetic Jar
Ladies in Pompeii wore cosmetics just like women do today. But with plastic rather lacking, they stored their cosmetics in glass containers such as the one shown below. Again, it looks brand new! The jar is described as free-blown glass from the 1st century CE.
Blue Glass Pitcher
And last but not least, I have to include this perfect example of a free-blown glass pitcher. Look at the color! There were also many, many more examples of pitchers blown in darker tones as well as clear glass. I still can’t get over how they survived the blast, but I guess the ash buried things so thoroughly that they were preserved during the 1800 odd years they lay undisturbed. Remarkable!
Mosaics
The people of Pompeii and Herculanean sure liked their mosaics. The floors of many houses, particularly those belonging to rich people (of which there were quite a few in Pompeii), were decorated with mosaics. The mosaics in MANN give just a taste of just how opulent the homes must have been. The intricacy of the mosaics really is breathtaking.
Zootopia Mosaic
Here is a series of three mosaics, displayed in horizontal format, but shown here in three parts to better check out the imagery. Each of these mosaics includes a bevy of wild animals–from hippos to snakes to ducks to crocodiles. What a tour de force!
Dog Mosaic
The Romans definitely liked dogs! Here’s another depiction of a dog–this time in mosaic form. This image is very popular; it’s on various products sold in the gift shop, including bags, fridge magnets, and mouse pads. We did buy a fridge magnet at the MANN gift shop, but of Sappho (see below) not the dog!
Sea Creatures
Can you imagine the imagination that concocted this delectable cornucopia of sea creatures? Wow! I particularly like the giant octopus in the middle. The mosaic also reminds me of the kinds of displays you’d see in 19th century natural history museums.
Frescoes
Paintings galore! You won’t believe how many paintings and frescoes you’ll find at MANN. This is because the Romans lavishly painted the inside walls of their villas and added painted embellishments just about anywhere there was a blank wall.
The Romans were unbelievably good painters! They’d mastered perspective and realism 1500 years before the Renaissance. So many of the paintings in MANN look like they could have been painted in the past few hundred years, particularly the gorgeous still lifes.
Here’s my best picks at MANN.
Isis & Snakes
Snakes are quite a recurring theme in the paintings in MANN. I’m not sure why that is; perhaps sea serpents were bigger and more threatening back in the day. For whatever reason, you’ll see snakes depicted in mosaics and frescoes, and included as details on pots, urns, and other objects.
This fresco, which had once graced the wall of a villa in Pompeii, shows Isis hauling the boat with the body of Osiris along the Nile accompanied by snakes lurking below the surface. Cheerful.
Still Lifes
I couldn’t believe the quality and quantity of still life paintings at MANN. The realism truly is incredible. I have a soft spot for still lifes (see my post about the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam where some of my fave still lifes are exhibited). I never knew that the ancient Romans were so adept at creating them.
Here are two still lifes–one of dead birds and mushrooms, and the other of a bunny with onions.
Portraits
MANN includes several portraits of Romans in its collection. One of the most famous is the portrait of the baker Therentius Neo and his wife. Don’t they look contemporary? Walking along the streets of Naples after visiting MANN brought us face to face with several of their descendants!
Here is another very famous portrait, this one of the poet Sappho, or at least that’s how it’s billed. The truth is that we don’t know if the portrait is actually of Sappho. It’s rather a “typological” representation of a young woman holding a stylus and a wax tablet–two things the real poet Sappho would likely have.
Anyway, it’s nice to think the portrait really is of Sappho which is probably why the image is everywhere in the gift shop, including on the fridge magnet I bought.
Could This be My Next Character?
And finally, I came across this lovely mosaic portrait of a young woman. According to the description, the mosaic dates to the Julian-Claudian era (27 BCE to 68 CE) in Pompeii. She’s likely pretty high born (check out the necklace). I love how she looks directly out at the viewer. If I do decide to write a novel set in ancient Rome (and I am toying with some ideas), then this mosaic could be the image of my main character!
Tour Options in the Naples Area
Here are some Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com tickets and tours you may wish to consider while in the Naples area. I frequently purchase tours and tickets from Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com and have yet to be disappointed. The tours they include on their website are, in my experience, reasonably priced and interesting.
If you enjoy walking tours, then you can’t go wrong with GuruWalks. Check out their tours in Naples.
Conclusion
In this post, I’ve just scratched the surface of the MANN collection. I recommend you make time in your itinerary to visit MANN, preferably as I said earlier, before you visit Pompeii. In fact, if I had to choose between visiting Pompeii and visiting MANN, I’d choose MANN. Yes, I know that the ruins are way more famous–and they are pretty impressive. However, they truly are mobbed with visitors.
And they are BIG! If you can, visit very early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid the heat. Altneratively, visit at a time of year when temperatures are less ferocious. There is virtually no shade anywhere.
Have you visited the National Archaelogical Museum in Naples? What were some of your favorites? Share in the comments below.
What is it about Siena that makes an artsy traveler swoon? Mention Siena to anyone who has traveled there and immediately they’ll clasp their hands to their hearts and look heavenward while intoning their undying love for this gem of a medieval city.
Every time I visit Siena (and I’ve been five times), I am inundated with a profound sense of living history. Of course, I could say that about many other places in Europe, but there’s something about Siena that makes it extra special.
Why is Siena so Special?
One reason why Siena is so special is that the modern world intrudes so discreetly that it’s easy to believe, especially at night, that you’ve been transported seven hundred years into the past. The stone and brick walls of ancient buildings soar into the deep blue sky either side of stone-paved streets. Everywhere you look are bricked archways, scarred and ancient wooden doors, iron rings for tethering horses, and shadowed alleyways. Everywhere the ancient past lives and breathes.
Walking Into the Campo
When I walk into the Campo—surely, the most beautiful public space in the world—I feel my throat constrict with emotion. I am in Siena! I am walking where my Sofia (from The Towers of Tuscany) walked, where my Lena grew rich and regretful (The Merchant of Siena – to be published) and where hundreds of years of Sienese people have lived and died, fought, prayed, loved, and hated.
On these bricks in the Campo, laid down even before the Black Death, people in heavy gowns walked and talked. They argued and haggled in business, they gazed at each other with love, they snubbed an enemy and clasped hands with a friend. This space—this Campo—has teemed with life for centuries, its shape and beauty unchanged through wars and famines and plagues and the chain stores of the 21st century.
Views Over the Campo
The view across the Campo to the Torre Mangia and Palazzo Pubblico from the cafés lining the high side of the Campo has not changed appreciably since the buildings were new.
Lorenzetti strode across these bricks on his way to paint the Allegory of Good and Bad Government in the Palazzo Pubblico. From one of the windows in a palazzo above where I sit sipping my Aperol Spritz, my Lena watched her lover Paolo enter the Campo with an army of mercenaries. My Sofia first entered the Campo with Francesco from the street to the left of the Torre Mangia and was instantly captivated.
Siena & Visitors
Siena is still a pulsing living city with more locals than tourists, although there are certainly plenty of tourists. But the crowds are manageable and easy to sidestep. One minute, I’m on a street streaming with people, occasionally standing aside to let a car go past. The next minute, I turn into a small side street and am alone with the ghosts and my imagination.
At night, Siena belongs to the locals, particularly young people. The Campo is filled with groups of teens–boys in one tight knot, girls in another. In the side streets, students spill out from the bars, glasses of wine in hand and voices at full volume. In the wee hours, a cadre of loud young men pass under our window, singing with drunken abandon. It’s more endearing than annoying.
Reliving my Novels in Siena
Everywhere I walk in Siena, I think about scenes in the two novels I’ve set there. Is this the street Lena ran down before being captured by mercenaries in The Merchant of Siena? In this piazza, did Sofia in The Towers of Tuscany watch a girl be whipped for dressing like a boy? I’ve spent so many months, years even, seeing these streets in my mind as I write that to walk in them now feels like I’m coming home.
Arriving in Siena
I booked a room at the I Merli di Ada which is inside the walls of Siena. Usually, we avoid places inside medieval towns because we know from experience that driving through narrow medieval streets mobbed with people is a recipe for disaster. But we wanted to be close to the action in Siena and so decided to take the risk.
The hotel sent instructions about parking. We were to enter Siena from the Porta Romana, drive to a little piazza near the hotel, drop off our luggage, then hand our keys to a valet parking attendant. The cost of valet parking is an exorbitant 30 euros per day, but I don’t care. The benefits of staying within Siena’s walls and having someone else park the car far outweigh the cost.
Driving Into Siena
With trepidation, we follow the GPS directions to drive through the Porta Romana past a phalanx of official-looking people in uniform who don’t stop us. I know we’re being electronically monitored. If we stay too long in Siena, we’ll be subject to a hefty fine. Tourists are allowed a small amount of time to drive to their accommodation and drop off their bags. They then must skedaddle, fast (or in our case, give the keys to a valet who does the skedaddling for us).
The GPS directs us along a street with pedestrians who stand aside to let us pass. Gregg drives very, very slowly. We turn left as directed up a side street and then sharp left again. The hotel’s directions tell us there will be a little piazza to our right where we can stop to unload our luggage. Lo and behold, there it is! We pull in and breathe a sigh of relief. I hop out and walk a few paces down the street to find our hotel.
Entrance to I Merli de Ada on a side street in Siena
Phew! That was one of the easier entries into a medieval town we’ve experienced. With great gratitude, Gregg hands the keys to the valet who appears moments later to smilingly move our car to God knows where and I don’t care! We’re informed that we’ll see the car again on Sunday. Spoiler alert – we do.
I Merli di Ada
The I Merli di Ada hotel is lovely. The entrance way is brick-arched and reeking with history. The tiny elevator that climbs very slowly from the lobby to the third floor is the only modern intrusion. We put our luggage into the elevator and climb the winding marble staircase. How many feet have climbed here? I don’t know how old the current building is, but I can say with certainty that its foundations are probably medieval, if not older.
Lobby of the I Merli di Ada in Siena
Our room on the third floor is high-ceilinged, the white-painted beams reminding us of former times. I can’t help wondering how many people have lived and breathed in this space over the centuries. The window looks out over the street and the building opposite—the same red brick as our building with arched windows, most shuttered.
First Walks into Siena
We walk out into Siena with an agenda—find a laundromat, eat a late lunch, buy Gregg some art materials, and, most importantly, drink in our first encounter in six years with my favorite city in Europe.
Thanks to Google, I find a laundromat just down the street, so we head there first. The directions are thoughtfully posted in both Italian and English. Within minutes, we’ve loaded our laundry into one of the machines, inserted eight euros, and pressed the start button. We leave to find lunch.
Lunch in the Campo
Minutes later, we are entering the Campo and my knees go weak. I want to run right out into the middle and twirl. I resist (although later I do a spot of twirling under the cover of darkness–see later in this post). We choose one of the ubertouristy cafés on the edge of the Campo and settle in.
Even Rick Steves, who usually eschews places in ‘high rent’ areas like the Campo, has written in his Siena guidebook that camping at one of the cafés on the Campo is a must-do. Hang the cost.
As it is, the cost is perfectly reasonable, the service efficient and good-humored, and the food really delicious. We split an order of bruschetta along with a large salad replete with anchovies, hard-boiled eggs, very fresh greens, and tomatoes.
The sun beats down pleasantly warm as we gaze out at the Palazzo Pubblico and the Campo. I am truly in heaven.
Errands in Siena
After our late lunch, we hightail it back to the laundromat, put the clothes in the dryer (another five euros), then go in search of art materials. We find them at a little shop on the other side of the Campo. Gregg buys a pad of paper and some paints and looks forward to many happy hours of art creating to come.
We pick up a few groceries so we don’t have to buy the hotel breakfast in the morning, then huff up the three flights of stairs to our room for a bit of quiet time before dinner.
Dinner in Siena
In the evening, we venture out to enjoy an excellent dinner at a well-reviewed osteria not far from the hotel. The service is excellent and the ambiance cozy and warm in a brick-vaulted room that’s probably been in use for centuries.
So far as I can hear, we’re the only English speakers. Most of the other diners are Europeans. We start with fried cheese accompanied by fresh pear sauce recommended by the server and then Gregg has a tasty pasta with bacon and I have thinly sliced Florentine steak. We share a green salad. The food is fresh, simply prepared, and absolutely delicious. With wine, the bill is about 60 euros—perhaps not a bargain, but certainly not over-priced considering the quality of the food, the service, and the ambiance.
Evening Stroll in Siena
After dinner, we stroll to the Campo where I do indeed twirl across the 14th-century pavement and snap endless shots of the floodlit Palazzo Pubblico in front of a deep azure sky. We end the evening with a walk along narrow medieval streets and a final stop at a gelateria for a small cup with two flavors—very dark chocolate with amaretto for me; stracciatella and fragola (strawberry) for Gregg.
A Perfect Full Day in Siena
The next day, I’m up early, excited to begin my only full day in Siena. I start with a caffè Americano at a lovely little café just down the street from our hotel. The place is deserted and I spend a productive hour working on The Merchant of Siena. Set in the second half of the 14th century—a time of great strife and hardship for Siena—the novel tells the story of a woman who is determined to control her own destiny in a world where all the odds are stacked against her.
April Weather
The weather has turned cloudy and chilly. By the time I emerge from the café, the rain has started in earnest, and I wish I’d brought some warmer clothes. I mistakenly thought that Italy in April would be warm. It can be, for sure, but it also can be chilly and wet. There’s a reason why the Tuscan countryside is so green.
I return to the hotel and together, Gregg and I set out to tour the Palazzo Pubblico. I’m anxious to see an exhibition of costumes from the Palio, and of course to revisit my favorite Lorenzetti frescoes.
Palazzo Pubblico
The Palazzo Pubblico is most certainly the most photographed building in all of Siena. I’ve taken dozens of photos myself in as many lights as possible—from brilliant sunshine to moonlit evening. The Palazzo Pubblico with its accompanying tower (the Torre Mangia) was built between 1297 and 1310 and is considered the world’s most perfect example of civic Gothic architecture. The Signoria and the Podestà resided in the Palazzo Publicco and still today, the building is a symbol of political power.
Alas, I discover while buying our tickets that the Lorenzetti frescoes are being renovated. Oh well. I’ve seen them a few times already, and there is still plenty to see between the public rooms and the current exhibition of Palio costumes.
Exhibition of Palio Costumes
We first head downstairs for the costume exhibition that features examples of the medieval-inspired costumes worn by participants in the Palio. I’m a sucker for a good costume exhibit and this one certainly doesn’t disappoint. The only thing lacking are women’s costumes since the focus is on how the riders in the Palio dressed and all of them are for men (or at least I presume so).
Public Rooms in the Palazzo Pubblico
Upstairs in the main part of the Palazzo Pubblico are the stunning reception rooms. With the room containing the Lorenzetti frescoes of Good and Bad Government off limits, the main highlight is the Sala del Mappamondo (the World Map Room), which was once the headquarters of the Council of the Republic.
Martini Fresco
I stand in the middle of the large room and stare at the Maesta by Simone Martini. In The Towers of Tuscany, Sofia stands exactly where I stand to look at the Maesta. Although obviously restored, the 2024 version probably doesn’t hold a candle to the brilliantly colored original that Sofia would have seen.
Fresco of the Maesta by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena
I spin around to see Martini’s other famous masterwork–the fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano. Mounted on his charger, the captain of the Sienese army rides across the territory he has just conquered (Montemassi, in 1328). Recently, art historians have disputed the attribution of this work to Martini, claiming that it was either a slightly later work or even a 16th-century fake. Part of what sparked the debate was the 1980 discovery of a slightly older scarred fresco lower on the wall. This earlier painting depicts two figures standing in front of a wooden-fenced castle. Some claim this is the fresco Martini painted, while those who support the authenticity of the Guidoriccio attribute this older fresco to Duccio, Pietro Lorenzetti, or Memmo di Filippuccio.
Fresco attributed to Lorenzetti in Siena’s Palazzo Pubblico
Who knows! It’s awesome whoever painted it.
Siena Cathedral
The sun bursts forth after our visit to the Palazzo Pubblico. Gregg heads back to the hotel and I set off to tour Siena Cathedral and the adjoining museums. Here’s where you’ll find the crowds in Siena! The cathedral is mobbed with tour groups, but it’s definitely worth a look-see.
Don’t miss the very cool 15th century paintings in the Piccolomini library. You have to line up to get in, but entrance is included in your ticket to the cathedral.
Interior of the Piccolomini Library in Siena Cathedral
If you visit Siena Cathedral, buy a ticket that includes all of the various components, even if you don’t visit them all. I made the mistake of only buying a ticket for Siena Cathedral and then discovering later that I couldn’t access the Museo Opera where the fabulous Maesta by Duccio is housed (it has a cameo appearance in The Towers of Tuscany). By the time I figured out that I didn’t have the right ticket, I couldn’t summon the energy to trudge all the way back to the side of the cathedral to line up to buy the correct ticket. Fortunately, I’ve seen the Duccio twice before!
I return “home” for an hour’s rest before setting off for the other side of Siena where we find a great place for dinner prior to attending a concert.
Italian Opera in Siena
When we’d arrived at I Merli di Ada, I’d picked up a brochure about opera concerts held three times a week in Siena. The price is reasonable and tickets are available. We decide to check it out. The Italian Opera in Siena concert turns out to be very entertaining. A soprano accompanied by a pianist sings many opera favorites by Puccini, Verdi, and Bizet.
Afterwards, we float out on an operatic high and stroll the thirty minutes back to our hotel through the moonlit streets. Siena at night goes beyond magical to mesmerizing. Most of the time, we are alone, the only sounds our footsteps on the cobblestones and the muted clanking of iron rings in the wind.
Out in the Campo for the last time, I shoot a 360-degree video of one of my favorite places in the world!
Siena will forever hold a special place in my artsy traveler heart!
Where to Stay in Siena
Here are more options in addition to the highly recommended I Merli di Ada:
Tour Options In and Around Siena
On one trip to Siena several years ago, I joined a small group tour of wineries in Montalcino and Montepulciano that also included an amazing lunch. If you’re in Siena for a few days and want to spend one of them touring the wine regions, then check out some of the many tours available. You could also choose a cooking class (I always enjoy a good cooking class!), or guided tours of some of Siena’s sites. As I’ve mentioned many times on Artsy Traveler, I’m a huge fan of Get Your Guide tours. Without exception, every tour I’ve taken has been excellent value. Full disclosure – if you click on any of the tours below and purchase a tour (any tour) from Get Your Guide, I receive a small commission. Thank you.
Have you visited Siena? Share your tips for an awesome experience with other artsy travelers in the comments below. And here are more posts about Italy:
I love Amsterdam, which is why on almost every trip to Europe I make it my first stop. Since 1970 on my epic first trip to Europe with my mom, I’ve visited Amsterdam fifteen times. You’d think I’d have run out of places to see by now, but I haven’t. On my most recent visit to AmsterdamX, I discovered two new-to-me museums that I highly recommend.
First is the National Maritime Museum (#1 on the map below) and second is the Rembrandt House Museum (Rembrandt Huis – #2). Both deliver an excellent bang for your euro. The map below also shows the location of my recommended hotel (#3) and for context, Amsterdam’s two heavyweight museums: the Rijksmuseum (#4) and the Van Gogh Museum (#5).
Despite all my visits to the city, I’d never heard about Amsterdam’s excellent Maritime Museum. On my latest trip, the taxi drove us right past the massive replica of an 18th century Dutch three-master sailing ship (the Amsterdam) moored in the harbor. I asked him what it was and he told us it was part of the National Maritime Museum. Intrigued, I looked it up when we got to the hotel, which turned out to be only a six-minute walk away.
Arriving at the National Maritime Museum
The National Maritime Museum is housed in a stately three-storey building on the edge of Amsterdam’s massive harbor and adjacent to the Amsterdam ship moored in the harbor. After entering at the south side of the building, we walked into a spacious covered atrium with entrances leading to the north, west and east.
Outside the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam
Touring The Amsterdam
We headed first for the north door that led straight out to a wharf and the docked replica of the Amsterdam. What a sight! The huge hull rose several storeys above our heads, above which soared three masts.
A replica of the East Indiaman Amsterdam at the National Maritime Museum
We boarded the ship and were immediately engulfed by a posse of schoolchildren all wearing yellow safety vests and swarming through the sailors’ quarters. Apart from the kids, the quarters looked spacious until I realized the space would house a crew of 191 sweaty sailors. The smells and swells on a rough day at sea would not have been pretty.
Sailors quarters in the Amsterdam tall ship at the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam
Information about the Amsterdam
Throughout the ship, descriptions in both English and Dutch provided fascinating glimpses into the history of the original Amsterdam and Dutch trade back in the 17th and 18th centuries. I learned that on one voyage, the Amsterdam carried one captain, 191 sailors, 128 marines, 11 artisans, and 3 women passengers for a total of 334 people. That’s a lot of bodies to squeeze onto a ship that, while large, wasn’t that large. I found it a bit crowded with a school group of maybe 30 kids!
Eating on the Amsterdam
In the galley at the front of the ship, the cook would prepare meals for everyone on board, who would then take turns eating in groups of seven. The captain and passengers got the best and freshest food, leaving the crew to half starve and fall prey to diseases such as typhus, dysentery, and scurvy. It must have been pretty grim, particularly since long voyages to destinations in the East Indies took many, many months.
Women Dressed as Men
I was particularly taken by a description of women dressed as men who sailed on the Dutch ships. Some were forced by circumstances to earn money; some were likely trying to escape an unhappy marriage; some maybe just wanted adventure. Unfortunately, any woman who was trying to pass herself off as a man on a ship was severely punished.
In 1770, a woman called Margereta Reymers dressed as a man and joined the crew of the East Indiaman Schoonzicht under the name Hans Hendrik Reymers on a ship sailing to Asia. Margereta was discovered two months into the voyage and put ashore at Cape Town where a man who had promised to marry her left her pregnant.
Eventually, Margereta managed to find a place on a ship returning to the Netherlands. Her daughter was born at sea. No one knows what happened to Margereta and her daughter afterwards. Hmmm – therein lies an interesting idea for a novel!
The Maritime Museum Exhibits
The museum itself is quite vast and beautifully curated. If you are into ships, navigation, and sailing, you could spend many happy hours there. I particularly enjoyed the displays of figureheads and model ships.
For more information about the National Maritime Museum, check out their informative website: https://www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.com/
After touring the National Maritime Museum, we enjoyed lunch in a typical Dutch pub, then headed to the Rembrandt House Museum, which was about a ten minute walk from our hotel.
The Rembrandt House Museum
Unlike the National Maritime Museum, I had heard about the Rembrandt House Museum, but had never managed to visit it. I thought it would be a rather dusty old place with little to recommend it beyond the fact that Rembrandt once lived there.
I discovered that I was wrong and that the Rembrandt House Museum is well worth an hour of any artsy traveler’s time.
Renovated Museum
The museum has been recently renovated to include an adjacent building containing the entrance area, a gift shop (of course), and two floors of exhibition space.
We entered the airy modern foyer, purchased our tickets and picked up our audio guides. We don’t usually go for audio guides, but the man at the desk told us they were essential to our enjoyment of the museum and so we dutifully donned the earphones and headed for door leading into the house that Rembrandt called home for 19 years.
Touring Rembrandt House
For the next hour or so, we drifted from room to room and up several sets of winding staircases to explore the nooks and crannies of what was—and still is—a large and comfortable home. Rembrandt was flying high when he and his wife purchased the house. He was receiving many commissions in addition to earning a sizable chunk of his income from teaching wannabe Rembrandts.
But regrettably, Rembrandt was not the best of businessmen. After nineteen years of enjoying the good life, Rembrandt’s many creditors forced him to sell just about everything not nailed down and move across town.
Rembrandt’s Misfortunes are History’s Gains
I learned that it was thanks to Rembrandt’s financial misfortunes that his house has been so immaculately recreated. When Rembrandt was forced to liquidate all his assets, he left behind an extremely detailed inventory of the house contents. Historians were able to use this inventory to faithfully recreate the rooms in his house so that today we can wander through them secure in the knowledge that they looked more or less the same as they did in Rembrandt’s day—except with electric light and tourists listening to audio guides.
The comprehensive audio guide provided us with a wealth of information about each of the rooms we entered—from grand salon to the room of curiosities to Rembrandt’s gorgeously bright and airy painting studio. In each room, audio commentary described the room and its uses, and provided information about Rembrandt’s life and work.
Rembrandt House Highlights
Box Beds
One of several box beds in the house was situated in the main salon, and like every box bed in the house (there were several) was much shorter than would seem reasonable to accommodate an average-sized human. I learned that back in Rembrandt’s time, people slept sitting up and so had no need of a bed that extended their full height. Apparently, the prevailing medical wisdom of the day dictated that sleeping completely prone was very bad for the health. Peering into the box beds, I shuddered at the thought of actually sleeping in one. If you are at all prone to claustrophobia, you wouldn’t last ten minutes.
The box bed shown below was in the main salon and would be for visitors.
Box bed for visitors
Etching Studio
Rembrandt was known for his etchings, many of which he made in the etching studio. Nowadays, a rubber-gloved attendant demonstrates the art of etching. Unfortunately, we missed her demonstration but it was likely very similar to the one we saw at the house of Albrecht Dürer in Nuremberg. In fact, the setup of the Rembrandt House Museum reminded me of the Dürer museum. You can read about our visit there in my page about Artsy Sightseeing in Germany.
Painting Studio
Stepping into Rembrandt’s large painting studio feels quite magical. Although now filled with visitors all listening intently to their audio guides, it’s salutary to remember that you are actually treading the same floor boards and looking out the same windows as Rembrandt did four hundred years previously.
The room faces north, an aspect favored by painters because the light varies the least throughout the day. The studio is at the top of the house and so would have been as bright and airy as any room in a 17th- century house could be.
The studio includes a large video screen that shows a demonstration of how Rembrandt and his assistants made pigments. I’m familiar with the process of grinding and mixing the pigments from my research for The Towers of Tuscany. But whereas my characters in 14th-century Italy mixed their pigments with egg yolks, Rembrandt and his contemporaries mixed pigments with linseed oil.
Small Painting Studio
I was quite taken with the second painting studio which was partitioned into four sections to accommodate four students.The whole setup looked so modern. Apparently, Rembrandt made 30% of his annual income from students, but even that income wasn’t enough to keep him afloat. I wonder what became of the students after Rembrandt had to liquidate!
But check out these studios. Many artists would feel quite at home in one today!
The Room of Curiosities
Like many people of his time, particularly artists, Rembrandt was an avid collector. His many collections fill the room of curiosities–from parrot feathers and stuffed caimans and armadillos, to tortoise shells, butterflies, rocks, and a hundred other exotic bits and pieces he accumulated over the years. Amsterdam, of course, was a port, and so Rembrandt was able to acquire objects from around the globe that had been brought to Amsterdam by the sailors.
Exhibition Center
After touring Rembrandt’s house, we funneled back into the exhibition center. There wasn’t much on when we were there, but I did appreciate the projection of a montage of Rembrandt’s greatest hits.
Visiting Rembrandt’s House
For more information and to purchase tickets, check out the Rembrandt House website: https://www.rembrandthuis.nl/en/
You can also purchase your tickets in advance from Get Your Guide. As I’ve mentioned many times on Artsy Traveler, I’m a big fan of Get Your Guide. Click the image below to go to their website.
On my stopover in Amsterdam in 2024, I stayed only two nights, but still managed to log several kilometers of wandering. Amsterdam is a fantastic city for walking, so long as you keep a very sharp eye out for cyclists. They go very, very fast! I wonder how many tourists who stepped off a curb without looking ended up in Emergency.
In the evening of our only full day in Amsterdam, we met Gregg’s artist friend Rik Lina in his home and went out for a wonderful Caribbean dinner. Here Rik is with Gregg in front of one of his paintings. He and Gregg have been collaborating for years. Notice the collection of masks. Like Rembrandt, Rik is an avid collector.
Dutch artist Rik Lina in front of one of his paintings with Canadian artist Gregg Simpson
Amsterdam at Night
After dinner, we strolled through Amsterdam in the moonlight, crossing many canals and passing an endless number of intriguing storefronts. Amsterdam has an admirably eclectic variety of stores carrying everything from Old Master knock-offs to rubber duckies to high fashion to painted cows. I adore window shopping in Amsterdam.
Painted cows in a shop in Amsterdam
Amsterdam at night truly is magical! The side streets are quiet, the canals serene in the moonlight, the bike traffic considerably calmed. You can wander for hours, imagining yourself into a cityscape that hasn’t changed appreciably for four hundred odd years.
Other Tours in Amsterdam
There’s so much to see in Amsterdam for the artsy traveler! I highly recommend booking one of the Get Your Guide tours, if only to skip the line at the most popular museums. I’ve consistently found Get Your Guide tours to be good value, and have taken them in Rome, Venice, Paris, Madrid, and Sirmione. Here are links to Get Your Guide tours in Amsterdam.
I also often purchase tickets and tours through Tiqets.com. Here are some options for Amsterdam.
And finally, check out a walking tour with GuruWalks. They offer these tours in Amsterdam:
Staying in Amsterdam
Over the years, I’ve stayed in many different places in Amsterdam–from Airbnbs to hotels on the outskirts. Our stay in 2024 was one of the best–and also the most reasonably priced considering the location and amenities.
I’m not usually a big fan of chain hotels, but to my surprise the Holiday Inn Express – City Hall in Amsterdam, steps from the harbor and within walking distance of old Amsterdam, was a perfect choice. The view of the canal from our window was endlessly fascinating depending on the time of day and the shifting April weather, the room was comfortable, and the staff friendly and helpful.
View of canals from the window of a room at the Holiday Inn Express – City Hall in Amsterdam
I also appreciated the large urn full of citrus fruits and water in the lobby. Every time I came into the hotel, I helped myself to a refreshing glass of citrus water.
Here are other options for staying in Amsterdam. I recommend you resist the temptation to opt for the cheaper places outside the city center. Amsterdam is worth the splurge. Book a place as close to the ring of canals as you can and enjoy many happy hours of wandering–particularly after dark.
Conclusion
Have you visited Amsterdam? What are some of your best picks? Share your experiences in the comments below.
The Uffizi Gallery in Florence is an Artsy Traveler must-see, particularly for artsy travelers who love Renaissance art. I’ve visited Florence six times over the past thirty years, and on most visits, I take the time to visit the Uffizi Gallery.
Few artsy traveler pursuits equal the joy of wandering blissfully through rooms full of many of western Europe’s most iconic masterpieces.
In this post, I highlight ten of my favorite pieces in the Uffizi Gallery.
When to Visit
The very best time to visit the Uffizi Gallery is first thing in the morning, particularly if you are visiting in high season (April to October). You’ll have the vast complex to yourself, at least for a little while, so you can trip wide-eyed from room to room in peace. You may even snag a place in front of one of the two most famous Botticellis without sharing air with dozens of other people.
If you’re visiting Florence between November and March, you’ll find fewer crowds and a more relaxed pace. As a result, you’ll likely be comfortable visiting at any time of day. On my recent visit in November, I chose an afternoon visit. Although the Uffizi was less crowded than I’ve found it at other times of the year, it was hardly empty. I still saw a long line-up of people who hadn’t gotten the memo about buying their tickets in advance, and large groups of art lovers jockeying for position in front of the Botticellis.
Getting Tickets
No matter what time of year you visit, purchase your tickets to the Uffizi Gallery in advance. In high season, purchase them at least a week or more before your visit. You’ll get the entry time that suits your schedule and you won’t need to queue up.
We arrived at the Uffizi about 45 minutes before our 13:15 entry time. The weary ticket collector let us in anyway, probably because it was November. The only delay was getting through security.
Location of the Uffizi Gallery
The map below shows the location of the Uffizi Gallery in Florence. Also shown is the location of the Accademia (#2), the Duomo (aka Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore) at #3, the Bargelo (#4), the Museo di Palazzo Davanzati–an awesome small museum showing what life was like for a wealthy person in medieval Florence (#5), and the gorgeous apartment we stayed in on the banks of the Arno during our three-day stay in Florence in November 2023 (#6: see below for more information about the Palazzo Serristori Residence — high recommended).
The Uffizi Gallery is large and brimming with amazing art. Pace yourself. I suggest you focus on enjoying ten to twenty pieces rather than stopping to admire every piece. Doing so will quickly exhaust you.
Even in November, visitors throng the long corridors in the Uffizi
The Uffizi’s collection is spread across two floors, with the most famous pieces by artists such as Botticelli, Michelangelo, Raphael, and Giotto located on the second floor. I suggest taking the elevator, or climbing the long flights of stairs to Level 2 and then starting with the room of medieval art that contains gorgeous works by Giotti, Lorenzetti, and Martini.
Here are my ten favorite pieces in the Uffizi, presented by artist and in the order in which I encountered them.
Giotto
I’ve become a big Giotto fan over the years. Although he died in 1337, Giotto is considered the first artist of the Renaissance because of his use of realism to depict his subjects. His most famous works are the frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua and Assisi.
Madonna and Child Enthroned with Angels and Saints shown below is one of Giotto’s most iconic pieces. It’s truly breathtaking, particularly when you realize that Giotto painted it in 1306 at a time when other artists were still depicting everything on one plane. Check out the Madonna’s knee under the blue drapery of her gown. It’s three-dimensional. This use of perspective set Giotto apart from his contemporaries and heralded the realism that become the hallmark of the Renaissance painters such as Da Vinci and Raphael over 150 years later. This painting was a source of inspiration for Florentine artists for generations.
Madonna and Child Enthroned with Angels and Saints, 1306-10, Giotto
Martini
I have a huge soft spot for Simone Martini, who was active in the mid-14th century. I even include a reference to his Maesta fresco in Siena’s Palazzo Pubblico in my novel The Towers of Tuscany. In The Annunciation with St. Ansansu and St. Maxima, below, I love Martini’s over-the-top use of gold, as well as how he shows the Archangel Gabriel in relationship to Mary.
Martini depicts a fluttering cloak and unfurled wings to suggest that the angel’s appearance is sudden. No wonder Mary looks distressed, turning away and wrapping her cloak around her. The fact that Gabriel is telling her she’s to be the mother of Jesus would have likely added to her confusion and distress. In her hand, Mary holds a book. Martini is likening her to a wealthy Sienese woman–the only women who would be able to afford a book, much less read it. Memmo Lippi is also given credit for the work, although apparently Lorenzetti is considered by art critics to be responsible for the conception and execution of the painting.
Annunciation with St. Maxima and St. Ansanus, 1333, Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi
Lorenzetti
Every time I walk into a room of medieval paintings in an art museum, I make a beeline for anything painted by Ambrolgio Lorenzetti. He’s a Siena hometown boy who was a major figure in his day, before succumbing to the plague (so far as we know) in 1348. He painted The Allegory of Good and Bad Government frescoes in Siena’s Palazzo Publicco, one of the palazzo’s many breathtaking highlights.
Lorenzetti painted the four panels from the life of St. Nicholas shown below. I get such a kick out of Lorenzetti’s depictions both of people and life in medieval Siena and the architecture–the graceful archways, exterior staircases, and crenelated rooftops. I’ve spent a lot of time over the years looking at Lorenzetti’s work to help me visualize what Siena looked like in the mid-14th century so that I can accurately write about the period.
St. Nicolas Gives to the Poor
In the top left painting, St. Nicholas is throwing pieces of gold to a poor man to enable him to gather the dowry required to marry off his daughters. The point is that St. Nicholas is carrying out the charitable deed secretly and humbly, without seeking acknowledgment (what a swell guy!).
St. Nicholas Gets Ordained
In the bottom left painting, St. Nicholas is being ordained as a bishop of the city of Myra in Asia Minor. The legend is that the prelates who had gathered to elect the new bishop of Myra heard a voice ordering them to choose the first man named Nicholas who entered the church. And guess who just happened to walk in?
St. Nicholas Raises the Dead
The top right painting depicts a miracle performed by St. Nicholas after his death. He returns to bring a child back to life after the child was killed by the devil disguised as a pilgrim (the figure in black mounting the stairs). There’s a lot to look at in this panel. I particularly like the way the figures are portrayed in the upper and lower rooms.
St. Nicholas Talks to Sailors
In bottom right panel, Nicholas asks sailors to give some of the grain their ships are carrying to the starving people of Myra. When the sailors comply, the ships are miraculously replenished with grain.
Uccello
This large painting by Paolo Uccello dominated the wall on which it was installed in the Uffizi. Check out all the horses–so much vigor and action. The painting is called The Battle of San Romano and is part of a cycle of three paintings that celebrated the victory of the Florentine forces over the Sienese troops in 1432.
Poor Siena. It had a tough time after being devastated by plague in 1348 and then suffering numerous mercenary raids, famines, and hostile takeovers culminating in its defeat at the hands of the bellicose Florentines in 1432. While I’m firmly on the side of Team Siena since I’m currently writing a novel set there, I have to admire how Uccello depicted the battle in his painting.
The Battle of Romano, 1435-40, Paolo Uccello
Botticelli
Almost everyone who visits the Uffizi is captivated by two of Botticelli’s most famous paintings–Primavera and The Birth of Venus. They are both huge and both fantastic–that is, if you can get close enough to get a good, long look.
The large room in which the paintings are hung is mobbed with visitors, all brandishing cell phones and elbowing for position to get a good shot. I know. I was one of them.
Standing in quiet contemplation is out of the question. But it’s still worth seeing the paintings in the flesh, so to speak, just to confirm that yes, indeed, they deserve their vaunted place in western art history. The figures are ethereal and also realistic, the movement joyous, the themes full of promise and celebration. I don’t think it’s possible to look at Botticelli’s masterpieces and not smile.
Primavera
Here’s what you see while approaching Primavera.
And here’s the shot I managed to get when it was my turn to step in front of the painting. It truly is a wonderful work. Botticelli had chops, all right. Look at how he depicts the gossamer draperies encasing the three dancing muses and the figure to the right. The central figure in the painting is Venus, goddess of love and beauty. She’s a stunner for sure.
Primavera, 1480, Sandro Botticelli
TheBirth of Venus
TheBirth of Venus is just as mobbed as Primavera, which comes as no surprise considering versions of this work appears on everything from aprons to mugs to mouse pads in Florence’s gift shops. There is so much movement; you can practically feel the wind in your hair as you contemplate this painting, which depicts Venus, goddess of love and beauty, surfing to land on a clamshell, gently spritzed with sea spray and blown by the winds Zephyr and Aura.
I wasn’t able to get a decent shot of the painting, so the image below is from the Uffizi’s marvelous website.
The Birth of Venus, 1486, Sandro Botticelli
Michelangelo
Florence’s Number One Son is well represented at the Uffizi Gallery and elsewhere in Florence. Thanks to a long and prolific career, Michelangelo’s work is pretty much synonymous with the Italian Renaissance. The Uffizi Gallery has the magnificent, circular Doni Tondo, the only finished panel painting done by Michelangelo that has survived the centuries. It glows.
Doni Tondo, 1505-1506, Michelangelo
Piero della Francesca
This double portrait by Piero della Francesca positively defines aristocratic haughtiness. Imagine the amount of time the duchess must have had to sit still to have that hairdo done. I’m hoping it wasn’t a daily thing. Look at the background–how it continues through from one side to the next. Showing the two figures in profile is a typical device in 15th century portraits that was a throwback to ancient coins. The artist’s attention to detail is a result of his training in both Florentine and Flemish traditions.
The Duke and Duchess of Urbino Frederico da Montefeltro and Battista Sforza, 1473-75, Piero della Francesca
Leonardo da Vinci
Another big draw to the Uffizi Gallery is the presence of a handful of paintings by Leonardo da Vinci. My favorite is his Annunciation because I love the contrast in styles between da Vinci’s version done in the late 15th century and Martini’s version done in the mid-14th century (see above).
In da Vinci’s Annunication, the figures are rendered extremely realistically and are also quite static. The Virgin is not shrinking away but is is confident and receptive. The trees almost look like fantasy trees, and the distant mountains like something out of Lord of the Rings. The way da Vinci renders the folds of the clothing is remarkable, considering he completed this painting when he was still quite young.
Annunciation, 1472, Leonardo da Vinci
Raphael
I’ve grown to appreciate Raphael’s work over the years. He’s certainly one of the biggies, considered by some to be the greatest painter of them all. There’s a lot of justification for that view. Unlike Michelangelo and da Vinci, who had other pursuits (science for da Vinci and architecture and sculpture for Michelangelo), Raphael only did painting–and an astonishing amount of it considering he died young, while da Vinci and Michelangelo both lived to ripe old ages.
The work by Raphael I most liked in the Uffizi is Madonna of the Goldfinch. The Madonna’s expression is so youthful and serene; unlike many Madonnas, she really does look like a young mum. The trees and landscape in the background are so beautifully rendered. In places they almost look like something Cézanne would have painted 400 years later. And check out the red of the Madonna’s gown–so rich and full and Florentine. It’s a keeper.
Mary, Christ and the young John the Baptist, known as “Madonna of the Goldfinch“, 1506, Raffaello Sanzio
More Uffizi
After exploring the long galleries on Level 2 of the Uffizi, you can descend to Level 1 to take in even more masterpieces of the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. Highlights include several works by Caravaggio. If you have the energy, don’t miss them.
Enjoying Florence
You emerge from the Uffizi into the beautiful piazza della Signoria. Here, you’ll stare up at the Palazzo Vecchio with its iconic tower, check out a statue of Michelangelo’s David (the original is displayed in the Accademia), and marvel at the fountain and statue of Neptune. Here’s a shot of it in the evening.
Neptune’s Fountain in the Piazza della Signoria in Florence
Resist the urge to stop and have a coffee at one of the cafes in the piazza, These high-rent places cater to tourists and have sky-high prices. Walk a few blocks into the maze of streets leading from the piazza toward the river to find slightly less touristy places, although to be honest, Florence is Tourism Central. And no wonder! It’s crowded, crammed with souvenir shops, and far from undiscovered. But hey, it’s Florence, and there’s no place on Earth quite like it for conjuring the grandeur and pomposity of the Renaissance.
Staying in Florence
On each visit to Florence, I’ve stayed somewhere different–sometimes on the outskirts and sometimes in the middle. My very favorite place was Serristori Palace Residence where we stayed during our trip in November 2023. Although a bit on the pricey side, the Serristori Palace Residence is excellent value because of the size of the one-bedroom apartment, with high ceilings, view of the river, and its stunning location.
Here’s a video I shot from the bedroom window early on a breezy November morning.
You will need to walk a good fifteen minutes to reach the center of Florence. But the walk that takes you along the Arno is just spectacular, particularly at sunset. Compared to a typical hotel room in Florence, the Serristori Palace Residence is almost a bargain, at least for Florence.
Here’s me on the walk into Florence on a brilliantly sunny (but not particularly warm) November day.
Tickets and Tours in Florence
You can easily spend several days in Florence, immersing yourself in the great art of the western world. If you’re short on time, consider a guided tour. Here are a few suggestions from Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com. I’ve purchased tours and tickets through both companies and been very satisfied with the prices, the quality of the tours, and the ease of booking
I spent two weeks exploring fascinating Madrid (minus a three-day excursion to Ávila and Cáceres at the end of week one) and fell hopelessly in love. Madrid is, quite simply, one of Europe’s easiest cities to visit and enjoy.
From sightseeing to strolling to eating to just chilling out in the many parks–Madrid is the place to hang out if you’re looking for a city that feels more like a cheerfully crowded village.
In this post, I chronicle my day-to-day activities during our two-week stay.
Before I launch into my celebration of Madrid, I’ll say a word about expectations. Gregg (husband, artist & frequent travel companion) and I first visited Madrid together in 2010 and stayed two nights. I remember Madrid as loud, noisy, crowded, and really not very nice. Also, on the second night, both of us came down with colds. This, of course, wasn’t Madrid’s fault, but our experience there did color our opinion of the city, already tainted by the fact that on Gregg’s solo visit to Madrid in 2004, he’d been pick-pocketed in the train station.
So when Gregg was given the opportunity to exhibit his paintings in Madrid, I was at first dubious. Did I really want to hang out in that big city for almost two weeks? Was it fair to judge Madrid on the basis on two not-so-great experiences of short duration?
Thank goodness we decided to give Madrid another shot. Staying for an extended period in Madrid was a wonderful experience. We are hooked on this city of four million souls.
Orientation to Madrid
The map below includes the places mentioned in this post. Click a number to find out more information.
We set off from Burgos around noon and drive two hours south to Madrid through beautiful mountainous country. I hadn’t realized that a mountain range—the Sierra de Guadarrama—runs to the north of Madrid.
Our drive into Madrid is smooth and thankfully uneventful. We follow the instructions provided by our accommodation to find the parking lot, and in no time are parking the car and making our way into the fabulous ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini.
ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini
Located just to the west of the center of Madrid and across the street from the Royal Palace (the rooftop terrace overlooks the palace), the ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini is the perfect place to stay in Madrid, particularly if you’re driving. It’s located just outside the Limited Access zone on a main road easily accessed from the motorway, and a short walk from the historical center of Madrid.
I can’t say enough about how great this place is. We stayed for twelve nights in two different but both excellent suites and could not have been more satisfied with our choice. The hotel is stylish and well-appointed and the staff are extremely helpful and friendly, always smiling and saying hola every time we leave or enter the lobby.
Here are pictures of the living room/dining room, the bedroom, and the very spacious bathroom with one of the largest bathtubs we’ve ever had in a hotel room.
As mentioned, the ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini is directly across the street from the Royal Palace. A lively rooftop bar takes full advantage of the stunning view, especially at night when the palace is floodlit.
Settling Into Madrid
Once settled into our one-bedroom suite, we stock up on a few food essentials at the small supermarket just down the street, and set off to explore.
We cross the busy street and climb the stairs to the broad plazas and formal gardens surrounding the Royal Palace. Over the next two weeks, we’ll walk this route many times, never tiring of the many views of the palace.
The changing of the guard is about to take place so we hang out for a few minutes to see the troops march past. Like Madrid itself, the ceremony is low-key and easy-going, lacking much in the way of pomp and circumstance. A handful of guards troops in, two guards on horses join them, there are a few salutes, and that’s about it.
In search of the historical centro of Madrid, we take a wrong turn and end up walking too far in the opposite direction! Tired now and in need of food, we retrace our steps to our hotel with the intention of further exploration the next day.
First Impressions
We have almost two weeks in Madrid—plenty of time to explore! And our first impressions are very positive. My only problem is that I have zero sense of direction in Madrid. In Paris and Rome, I pretty much know where I am most of the time, even without GPS. Landmarks such as the Eiffel Tower and the Seine, or the Tiber and the Colosseum, help orient me. But in Madrid, I have no focal points yet, apart from the Royal Palace.
But orientation will come and I’m content to wait.
Eating In – Once!
In the evening, we decide to stay in and cook dinner—the only night we do so during our entire stay! Although our suite is equipped with a kitchenette, it’s a very small one with just a two-burner stovetop and very few cooking pots and utensils. But that’s okay. Madrid has thousands of restaurants catering to every taste, and prices are reasonable.
I make a tasty pasta dish with the limited facilities, declare that I’ll likely not cook in again, and then we’re early to bed.
Day 2: Wednesday, October 18 – Hanging the Exhibition in Madrid
The priority of the day is to visit the gallery and hang Gregg’s show. After a walk around the ‘hood in the morning, we take a taxi to the Gallery Captaloona where we finally meet Claudio, the gallery director, in person. He’s already got most of the paintings hung so after having a quick coffee in the bar next door, he and Gregg set to work hanging the framed pieces and tweaking the installation. I sit at Claudio’s spacious desk and work on my novel.
Public Transit in Madrid
Afterwards, we go in search of the Metro where we purchase a Metro card and load it with twenty rides—hopefully sufficient for the duration of our trip (it is). I ask the attendant if we need two cards, or if we can use just the one card with one of us going through the turnstile first, then handing it back to the other. I ask because in Paris both people require their own card. The attendant tells me that one card is fine and I confirm that Gregg and I must always stick together. He laughs.
We ride the Metro to Puerta del Sol, the very center of Madrid.
Puerta del Sol
Puerta del Sol (#1) (Gate of the Sun) is a large public square that is one of Madrid’s best known and busiest places. It is also the center (Km 0) of the radial network of Spanish roads.
Here also is the Statue of the Bear and the Strawberry Tree (El Oso y el Madroño) that was installed in 1967 and represents the coat of arms of Madrid. I take the obligatory picture and then we set off to explore the area.
Around the square is a warren of small streets, most pedestrianized. We soon relax into the Madrid amble as we window shop our way towards a stop for lunch and then home. We are slowly getting a handle on where we are so that my fixation on my phone’s GPS becomes less necessary as I become more familiar with the streets.
Plaza Isabel II
We emerge into the Plaza Isabel II (#2), the location of the Opera Metro and our touch point for entering and exiting the centro from our hotel. A quick stroll around the Opera house brings us to the Royal Palace in all its brilliant white-façaded glory.
We hang a right in front of the palace, wind through the formal palace gardens to the top of “our” stairs and moments later, we’re crossing the busy Cuesta de San Vincente and entering the ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini.
Day 3: Thursday, October 19 – A Day of Art in Madrid
The day dawns wet and cold. Really wet! The word monsoon comes to mind. It’s the first really wet day of our trip which, considering we’ve been on the road almost a month, means we have nothing to complain about. We receive a text from Claudio at the gallery warning us that attendance at the opening that evening will be sparse. However, since invitations have been sent, we decide to go ahead with the opening and then to have another opening (more of a closing) the following week.
First up is a visit to a local hairdresser. The staff at the Jardines made the booking for me the day before. I tell the stylist to give me a short cut and she does, charging me a mere 14 euros. What a bargain! It’s one of the best cuts I’ve ever had–easy to manage and perfect for life on the road.
I slosh back to the hotel and we get ready for a visit to the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza. It’s new territory for both of us and we’re excited to see what it has to offer. When we get down to the lobby and see just how ferocious the rain is, we ask the front desk to call a taxi. Sometimes comfort takes precedence over budget.
Well, quite often, actually, particularly as we get older!
Taxis in Madrid
Taxis in Madrid are very affordable, and Ubers are even cheaper, we discover later. We never wait longer than five minutes for either. A trip to the Thyssen on the other side of the centro costs about 10 euros and is well worth it. But even with an umbrella, I’m soaked by the time I exit the taxi, step into a puddle, and wrestle the umbrella open.
But no matter. Minutes later, we’re inside the Thyssen. The security guard deftly wraps my umbrella in plastic and directs us to the cloakroom where we join a long line-up to leave our coats and the umbrella. Better that than dripping all over the marble floors.
Visiting the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza in Madrid
We start first with the marvelous collection of 19th-century art—mostly Impressionists—that graces the first floor. Within seconds, we are gobsmacked by the depth and breadth of the Thyssen’s (#3) collection. While it doesn’t contain many super-famous pieces like the Musée d’Orsay does, it contains a lot of variety and some truly stunning pieces.
Here are just a few highlights.
Reclining Nude Shepherdess, 1891, Berthe MorisotTwo Breton Women Under an Apple Tree in Flower, 1892, Paul SérusierThe Cliffs at Le Pouldu, 1884, Émile Bernard Still Life with a Parrot, 1907, Robert Delaunay
There are plenty more excellent pieces from all eras, starting in the 15th century right up to some by mid-20th-century masters such as Ernst and Dali. There’s also an interesting special exhibition of Picasso.
We see it all and then retire to the café for a well-deserved coffee and snack.
Opening of Flamenco Abstractions
We float out of the Thyssen and wash into a taxi for the rain-drenched journey back to our place for a quick pit stop before getting into another taxi to go to the gallery. We’ve been warned not to expect many people because of the rain, but as it turns out, quite a few people show up and we have many interesting conversations.
Afterwards, we ride the Metro back to our ‘hood and enjoy a late dinner in Old Madrid. The rain stops obligingly and we stroll home through the palace gardens. Madrid at night feels safe and family-friendly.
Day 4: Friday, October 20 – Cooking in Madrid
I start the day by walking a block down the street to a lovely coffee shop where I snag a table on the upstairs level and enjoy a caffe con leche, a fruit smoothie and a pastry while working on my novel. I’m in heaven! Here’s the view of the street from my writing perch.
Temple of Debod
After my writing stint, Gregg and I set off in search of an Egyptian temple. Called the Temple of Debod (#4), the monument dates back to the 2nd century BC. It was donated to Spain by the Egyptian government to save it from floods following the construction of the Aswan Dam. The temple was transported to Madrid and rebuilt stone by stone, opening to the public in 1972.
The park where the temple is located is just a few minutes’ uphill walk from our hotel. After the rains of the day before, the air is brisk and clear. We climb several flights of stairs to a viewpoint that overlooks a massive park to the west of Madrid, then head out in search of the temple.
It’s pretty darned impressive! We enjoy a walk around it and snap a few pictures.
Lunchtime calls so we descend to the Plaza de España to check out Cervantes and his most famous creation and find something to eat (not exactly difficult in Madrid!).
Plaza de España
The Plaza de España (#5) was renovated extensively a few years ago with all parking and traffic sent underground, and the plaza itself reopened only for pedestrians in 2021. It’s a delightful space with playgrounds, sculptures, parks, and a huge statue of Cervantes behind his two most famous creations.
Tapas Cooking Class
At 3 pm, I set off for a location in the centro to take a tapas cooking class. With great confidence, I make my way to the bus stop only to discover that the GPS was directing me to take the Metro, not a bus. Fine. I jump on a Metro and within seconds realize I’m on the wrong line. Sigh. Of course, the next stop is miles away—taking a good five minutes to get to.
Times a-ticking, so I jump off and onto another Metro only to discover that it’s also going in the wrong direction. What kind of a seasoned traveler am I? The next stop is even farther away—so far, in fact, that when I emerge onto the platform, I hear birdsong and see only trees. The station is outdoors and I must go up stairs and cross the tracks to get to the other side. Finally, I get on the right Metro going in the right direction. I still have a good ten minute walk to the cooking school from the Metro and arrive breathless and late. The chef has already started describing the ten tapas we will make.
Making Tapas
No matter. I tie on my apron and listen to her talk about the dishes. She then assigns a dish to each person. My job is to make a cold tomato soup. I cut up garlic and a lot of fresh tomatoes, then throw them in the blender and turn it on. I then add several pieces of bread which apparently will help the soup thicken. Interesting! Finally, I drizzle in about a quarter of a bottle of olive oil and keep blending until the final result is smooth and red.
And wow, does it taste amazing! So fresh—like eating sunshine from a spoon.
Over the next three hours, we make ten tapas. The chef/instructor never stops–she’s a whirling dervish tending to everyone’s questions and directing us to do something new when we’ve completed a task. I’m one of a few participants chosen to flip a potato and egg tortilla. The pictures show that I wasn’t wholly successful!
After all the tapas have been made, we take pictures and then dig in. My favorite is the tomato soup I’d made and the cheese popsicles. I’m not so keen on the tortilla, not being a potato lover, but I did enjoy learning how to make it.
Book a Cooking Class Through Get Your Guide
Here are some options; mine was the 2.5-hour Tapas class.
After the class, I walk home through narrow, twisting streets. When I get to the palace, I snap pictures of a luscious sunset.
Day 5: Saturday, October 21 – Art and Flamenco
After enjoying my morning routine of breakfast and writing at “my” local café, Gregg and I go for a splendidly solitary stroll in the Jardines Sabatini–the landscaped gardens attached to the palace that we access from an iron gate (closed at night) across the street.
Jardines Sabatini
The gardens (#6) are simply magical–plenty of twisty paths and sunlit dells. For the remainder of our stay in Madrid, Gregg goes every day to the gardens to paint.
Visit to the Prado in Madrid
The main item on the agenda for the day is a visit to the Prado (#7)–one of Europe’s great art museums on par with the Louvre, the Uffizi, and the National Gallery. It’s a must-visit if you want to stand in the presence of some of western art’s most iconic pieces. What I love about the Prado as compared to the Louvre (not so much the Uffizi or the National Gallery) is that it’s very accessible. Yes, it’s large–three floors with dozens of rooms and hundreds of masterpieces–but it’s not too large. We are able to see almost every room and every time period, from medieval to 18th century, in about two hours of leisurely strolling.
I have bought tickets in advance (a must to avoid long lines) and within five minutes of arriving, we’ve sped past a long line and are standing at the entrance of the main gallery. I snap off this picture before discovering that photography in the Prado is forbidden. Oops!
No Pictures!
While at first I’m disappointed not to be able to snap pictures of my favorite paintings, I soon feel grateful for the photography prohibition. Often in art museums, I spend more time hovering in front of a painting waiting for others to move so I can get a good shot than I do appreciating the painting.
Freed of the compulsion to document our visit, Gregg and I wandered happily from room to room, thoroughly enjoying the opportunity to stop in front of paintings we like to discuss why we like them.
Get Your Tickets with Get Your Guide
I recommend buying your tickets in advance through Get Your Guide or even splurging for a guided tour. You’ll learn a lot and are sure to see all the highlights.
Banco d’Espagna
After our visit to the Prado, we walk over to the impressive Banco d’Espagna (#8) to catch the Metro home for a wee rest before another trip highlight to come–flamenco!
Here’s a shot of the wedding-cake banco d’Espagna. What a great building. It really says “Madrid” to me–so imposing and kind of in your face, but in a good way.
Plaza Mayor
Gregg and I love going to flamenco shows and so of course we’ve booked one in Madrid. We have an early dinner of tapas in the imposing Plaza Mayor (#9), then make our way to the Tablao Las Carboneras.
The Plaza Mayor, by the way, is a great place to visit, but I don’t recommend eating at the restaurants there. Most are multi-lingual tourist traps with food that is at best mediocre. At least that was our experience, and I have read other reviews that say the same. Visit the plaza to enjoy its architecture, then eat at a place in a side street nearby.
Flamenco at Tablao Los Carboneras
We arrive and are ushered into a “tablao.” This is a room with small tables where patrons are given one “free” drink and a small plate of olives and cheese. Unfortunately, we are seated to the left of the stage and so need to crane our heads around to see the dancers and can’t really see the singers and guitar player at all.
Oh well. Once the lights go down, the three dancers (two women and one man), a male singer, and a guitarist come out and start playing, and we are mesmerized. Flamenco is endlessly fascinating to me. Every performance is different with every dancer, singer, and musician bringing their own soul to the dance floor. Flamenco reminds us of jazz because, like jazz, it is improvisational. One dancer listens and then responds to the singer and the guitarist while the other dancers egg them on with cries of Huzzah and Ole! You can see that they are completely consumed by their performances.
The only fly in the flamenco ointment is that the group of girls next to us won’t stop talking, particularly during the guitar solo (which is heart-rendingly fabulous). I tried to ignore them, but it is irritating and takes away from the pleasure of the evening. We resolve to catch another flamenco performance at a different place before we leave Madrid.
Flamenco Shows on Get Your Guide
Here are a few flamenco shows sold through Get Your Guide. We went to performances at Los Carboneras and Emociones.
Joining the Throngs
After the show, we sail out into the evening and join the throngs of Madrileños out strolling on a Saturday night. The crowds move slowly, everyone chatting and enjoying each others’ company. It’s so darned civilized, and so very different from how we spend our evenings back home! The solitude of island living can be soul soothing, but sometimes, it sure is cool to join the human race in a city like Madrid.
Day 6: Sunday, October 22 – Off to Ávila
We leave the ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini for a three-day trip to two small cities to the west and southwest of Madrid. Our first stop is Ávila, a walled city sometimes called the Town of Stones and Saints. The medieval walls are impressive, but they are a good twenty minute walk through dreary suburbia from our hotel. Orson Welles once named Ávila as the place in which he would most desire to live, calling it a “strange, tragic place”. He filmed scenes of his 1965 film Chimes at Midnight in the town, and more recently, some of the town was used as backdrops in Game of Thrones.
I rather wish we’d booked a hotel within the walls, but Gregg has a horror of driving into medieval villages, based on several mishaps over the years! And why add to the stress? Our hotel–the Hotel Exe Reina Isabel–is lovely and was very easy to drive to so no complaints except for its distance to the medieval part of the city.
In Ávila we encounter the first chilly temps of our trip. I am obliged to bring out the hat, gloves, and scarf I’d brought and hoped not to need.
Getting Medical Attention in Ávila
Once we’re settled, we go in search of a doctor to look at my plugged ear. The pharmacist in Madrid told me that I really should see a doctor since over-the-counter remedies have done nothing for five days. After much walking and a taxi ride, we end up at a hospital emergency that won’t take me because they can’t accept payments. They kindly direct us to a clinic that turns out to be five minutes from our hotel. Once there, the nurse hums and haws and finally lets me pay 120 euros to get looked at by a doctor.
The nice doctor who doesn’t speak much English concludes I have an ear infection and writes out a prescription – antibiotics for five days plus spritzing twice a day with another concoction, presumably to soften the wax buildup. Fun.
We trudge back through the dreary streets to the magnificent medieval town to look for the only pharmacist for miles around that is open on a Sunday afternoon. We’re discovering that Spanish small towns on a Sunday can be very, very closed.
Fortunately, we find the pharmacy, get the prescription, wander a bit through completely empty streets, admire the impressive medieval walls, then return to our warm hotel room for an early night.
Day 7: Monday, October 23 – Cáceres
We’re up and on the road early for the 2.5 hour drive to Cáceres (#10), another medieval town quite close to the Portuguese border. We’re staying in a country resort that is remarkably reasonable considering it was once a palace. It’s called Hospes Palacio de Arenales and Spa.
We arrive after lunch and decide to stay put for the rest of the day. I try out the very warm swimming pool and various jacuzzi jets, then we have a light dinner in the bar. The weather outside is cold, so staying warm indoors wins over sightseeing. The palace itself is magnificent.
Day 8: Tuesday, October 24 – Exploring Cáceres
We are staying two nights in Cáceresso the next morning after a sumptuous breakfast, we drive into the town to check out the medieval center. Most of Cáceres is forgettable–a town like any town in Europe. We find a parking space and walk into the historical center. It’s pretty deserted but certainly atmospheric. We snap a few photos, visit the church, then have a hearty lunch in the main square.
Our three-day sojourn from Madrid has been relaxing but has involved a bit too much driving considering the payoff.
Day 9: Wednesday, October 25 – Return to Madrid
We are happy to return to Madrid this morning. The three-hour drive through fairly dreary landscapes flies by. Before we know it, we’re pulling into the parking lot next to the ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini. We are greeted like old friends and given keys to a new suite on the fifth floor at the back of the building.
Sunset View
The view of building rooftops is not particularly inspiring, but does include glimpses of some memorable sunsets.
Once settled, we go for a good long walk through the narrow streets of old Madrid before ending up at Plaza de España and the stairs leading down to “home.”
On this, our re-entry day into Madrid, we do very little beyond the walk. I have travel arrangements to attend to. We’ve decided to cut our trip short by two days, thereby eliminating a long drive from Padua to Lyon in France. As a result, I must spend several hours online with KLM making the flight changes, then reshuffling our accommodations.
Thank goodness for booking.com. I know that properties prefer clients to book directly with them because booking.com charges a 10% commission, and I sympathize. However, for a long trip such as ours, having all our accommodations together on one website is so convenient. I’ve never yet been on a trip when I didn’t make some changes to our itinerary and the associated accommodations. Canceling and rebooking accommodations on booking.com is a breeze.
For dinner, we opt for Thai food at a little place down the block. Its reviews are excellent and we are tired. Also, I’m craving Asian food after a fairly steady diet of Spanish tapas. They can be a trifle on the heavy side and vegetables are rarely featured. I want something spicy and fresh and Thai food fits the bill.
Turns out it is a good choice. We share one appetizer and one red curry made with crispy duck and are pleasantly full.
Day 10: Thursday, October 26 – A Day of Nothing Much in Madrid
Today is our day off from our 66-day sojourn. I start the day at my favorite café and write for an hour before Gregg comes by. We decide that a day off is a good day to go in search of a new suitcase for me. One of the wheels on my suitcase was broken on the plane and now lists to one side. I don’t fancy its chances of surviving two more flights.
Gran Via – The Heart of Madrid
Off we go up the stairs to Plaza de España and then along bustling Gran Via (#11)—the main artery that cuts through central Madrid. Gran Via is the Broadway of Madrid on which most of the theaters are clustered along with the big hotels, chain stores, and fast-food restaurants. It’s a delightful street to stroll along—wide and clean with imposing buildings on both sides. The Plaza de España is at one end (near where we are staying) and the Prado is at the other end. Here are some pictures of the magnificent architecture along the Gran Via.
Some Rest and Relaxation
When we get back from our shopping trip, new suitcase in tow, I indulge in an afternoon nap and it does feel good to just rest! Traveling is wonderful, but it can also be hard work. I’m grateful to have such a comfortable place to stay. In the evening, we climb the stairs back to Plaza de España and look for an Indian restaurant. We are the first customers at 8 pm. The food is plentiful and tasty.
Day 11: Friday, October 27 – A Visit to El Retiro
A sunny day! We plan another quiet day in Madrid prior to going to the second opening this evening. I start my day at my favorite café. By this time, the servers know me and smile with recognition first at my order and then point upstairs to my favorite table overlooking the action. I love starting my day this way—the bustle and clink, the murmur of voices—never too loud in Europe, the wagging tails of the dogs brought in by their owners. When I get upstairs to “my” table, three little mop dogs are tethered to the table behind. They get very excited when I come up and jump up with much wagging of tails and bodies.
After working for about an hour, I drop my computer back at the Jardines and we embark on our outing of the day—a walk through Retiro Park. We stroll across the street and up the stairs to the gardens flanking the Royal Palace, skirt the palace and go around the Opera house to arrive at the Opera Metro station. A few stops later, we emerge across the street from Retiro Park.
Retiro Park in Madrid
Paris has the Luxembourg Gardens, London has Hyde Park, Rome has the Borghese Gardens, Berlin has the Tiergarten, and Madrid has El Retiro (#12). I’ve been to all of them and I have to say that Retiro in Madrid is my new favorite.
Gorgeous trees, wide walkways, a large lake studded with rowboats being lazily propelled in the October sunshine, an exquisite rose garden, and a lot more make Retiro a delightful place to spend an hour or two. We walk from one end to the other, sometimes joining the throngs of people on the larger avenues, and other times veering off to small pathways where only the occasional jogger lopes past.
Retiro is 118 hectares of green space in the very center of the city and was built in the mid-17th century for King Felipe IV.
We walk the length of the park and emerge into a workaday neighborhood where I’m sure we’re the only tourists. We stop into a cafeteria for lunch and enjoy a bargain meal–two very filling sandwiches, two coffees, a soda water, and two desserts for about 12 euros. All very tasty and fresh! We are finding that food prices in Madrid, particularly away from tourist areas, are extremely reasonable. And even in the tourist areas the prices are still less than what I’d pay in Vancouver for comparable quality–a lot less!
Second Opening of Flamenco Abstractions
In the evening, we go again to Captaloona Gallery for the second opening. More people come and we enjoy many interesting conversations along with some sales. All in all, a successful evening! Afterwards, we take the Metro back into Old Madrid and enjoy yet another excellent meal.
Rez Mad Rid Festival
The Rez Mad Rid Festival (we finally figure out that it means Lights Madrid) has started and all over Madrid sound and light shows are set up. At the Royal Palace, black Hallow’eenish tendrils crawl across the facade to the accompaniment of suitably spooky sound effects. On the side of another building, the projection of an artist “painting” with light entertains us for several minutes.
The streets and walkways are teeming with people and the cold air is alive with their conversations.
Day 12: Saturday, October 28 – Royal Palace and More Flamenco
I’d booked a guided tour of the Royal Palace (#13) a few days earlier, and so at 9:40 set off from ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini to stroll across the road to the palace grounds and through them to meet the tour at the statue of Felipe II. The morning is chilly with a biting wind. I’m grateful when finally, after much milling about and waiting in line, we are ushered into the palace.
Our guide is a perky and well-informed young woman wearing a bright purple hat and blue raincoat so she’s easy to spot among the dozens of more soberly clad tourists.
I used to turn up my nose at guided tours, but I’m coming to see their worth in small doses—about two hours is my maximum. I learn more from a live guide than I do from the ubiquitous audio guides that always make me want to fast forward.
The Royal Palace Tour Begins
Our guide starts off by giving us a quick summary of the history of the palace, which is the official residence of the Spanish royal family (although they don’t live there). Back in the 1730s, Philip V decided to have a new palace built after the mouldering fortress that Spanish kings had been occupying for centuries burned to the ground. Apparently, the fire roared through the old place on New Year’s Day, not long after all the best paintings had been taken out. Coincidence?
Measuring 135,000 square meters with more than 1,400 rooms, the Royal Palace is massive. Thankfully, the tour explores only a handful of the rooms, but what a handful. The first room we enter is laden with massive chandeliers, and I snap a picture.
Seconds later, I’m almost bowled over by a very angry guard.
“No pictures!”
“Sorry!”
He wags a thick finger at me and for a second I’m worried he might tackle me to the ground and confiscate my phone. Instead, he turns away, grumbling under his breath as he readies himself to pounce on the next unsuspecting tourist.
The guide apologizes to the group for neglecting to tell us that photographs are not allowed. She also acknowledges that the guard was somewhat aggressive. No kidding! My heart rate doesn’t return to normal for two more rooms. I feel like the very worst sort of cultural criminal.
Sumptuous Rooms in the Royal Palace
Sumptuous is putting it mildly. Ceilings are covered in frescoes, walls with silks and paintings; objets d’art including some pretty nifty clocks sit atop beautifully carved tables, and there are chandeliers galore. It’s somewhat over the top but hey, it’s a palace. The guide provides just enough history and stories to bring the place alive without overdoing it.
One room displays a collection of five instruments made by Stradivarius. Each is worth tens of millions of euros and can only be played by a virtuoso. It would be amazing to hear how they sound!
We also check out the banquet room and the throne room, and learn that the current king came to the throne in 2014 after his dad, King Juan Carlos, abdicated following a series of scandals involving the misuse of government money. King Felipe VI looks to be an upstanding fellow. The palace is getting ready to host a major royal event when his eldest daughter, the heir to the throne, pledges her loyalty to the constitution. The palace will be closed for several days.
Should You Visit the Royal Palace?
Is a visit to Madrid’s Royal Palace worth a few hours of your time? I think so. Despite its massive size, it’s one of the more accessible palaces I’ve toured, and the history of the various kings and queens who inhabited it is fascinating. If you go, I suggest signing up for a guided tour and choosing the first tour of the day so you enter the palace when it opens at 10 am.
Access to the rooms is through very narrow entranceways. I find it crowded enough early in the day and can’t imagine what it would be like later on. I think getting from room to room would take twice as long.
When I emerge from the palace at 12:30 at the end of the tour, the line-up to get in stretches for a few blocks. So yeah, go early.
After my tour, I meander slowly through crowds of tourists (the most I’ve seen since arriving in Madrid) to return to the hotel. The air is still cool, but the sun is shining and the palace gardens are as inviting as ever. Once again, I’m struck with how comfortable a city Madrid is. People don’t rush around here, not like they do in Paris or Rome. There are also very few bikes and almost no cars in the center of the city so walking is a pleasure instead of an exercise in death-defying dodging.
Accessing Health Care in Madrid
Back “home” at the Jardines Sabitini, I connect with a local doctor to help me with my ongoing ear problem. Forty minutes after I call a number for a Madrid doctor on call, a doctor arrives at my door. She is from Colombia and quickly gets to work solving my ear problem and also providing help with some skin issues I’ve been having since coming to Europe. She is a wonder! The cost is 130 euros and she comes equipped with a Visa machine.
What a service! She tells me that she is on call for 24 hours and that the morning was very busy with people suffering from major hangovers after over-indulging in the Madrid night life. Many people told her they would never drink again, but she tells me with a twinkle in her eye that she doesn’t believe them.
Another Flamenco Show in Madrid
On the agenda for the evening is yet another flamenco show. Ever since seeing our first live flamenco in Barcelona in 2010, Gregg and I have been obsessed. In fact, Gregg’s exhibition in Madrid is heavily inspired by the flamenco shows we’ve attended over the years.
We opt for Madrid: “Emociones”, billed as one of Madrid’s best flamenco shows. It’s in a theater rather than a club and we hold out hope that we’ll snag better seats than we did for the flamenco show we attended a week earlier. With that goal in mind, we leave home at 5 pm and walk about 25 minutes through what are becoming the familiar streets of Madrid to get to the theater. Along the way, we join the throngs on Gran Via.
Saturday Night in Madrid
It’s Saturday night and the street is packed to the gunnels—and it’s only 5:30! But it will only become more crowded, as we’ll discover after the show.
We arrive and are shown to absolutely first-rate seats in the second row directly in front of the stage. The price includes one drink each. Gregg orders agua con gaz and gets a nice big bottle that I share, while I order a white wine (my first in over a week to celebrate finishing a round of antibiotics). It’s a good choice since it is a very small glass of white wine!
Still, we’re not there for the drinks. The lights go down and the hour-long show begins. We are introduced one by one to the six performers who will pour their hearts onto the stage, literally to be stomped upon. The cast consists of two female dancers, one male dancer, a guitarist and two female singers. Together, they present a mesmerizing show that really showcases the various roles each of the components play—dancers, musicians, singers.
The Flamenco Performance
The three dancers dance together and then each takes the stage separately to perform breathtaking solos. We are at eye level with the feet and especially during the man’s performance, I fix my gaze on his shoes and watch with wonder as he slides, slides, stomps, stamps, taps, and even jumps. Meanwhile, he fixes a haughty gaze high above the heads of the audience and with his hands alternates between slow snaps, sinuous arms movements, and then rapid grabbing of his jacket and wrenching it back and forth like a matador’s cape.
As in every flamenco show we’ve attended, the guitarist takes a solo.The flurry of runs shivering up and down the neck of the guitar has me swooning. I don’t think there’s any kind of guitar playing more perfect, more soulful than Spanish guitar playing. It truly is poetry performed by ten impossibly strong fingers.
Day 13: Sunday, October 29 – Tango in Madrid
In the morning, I go out to my favorite place for morning coffee and to work on my novel. At 11:30, we hop in a cab and go to the gallery where Gregg and Claudio take down and pack the show. It has been a success in many ways, not just with some sales but also because of the contacts made and people met.
Claudio is very supportive of Gregg’s work and promises more connections and possibly another show in Madrid. Will we return? Who knows? I certainly like this city with its calm and easy atmosphere. Madrid feels more like a village than a big city, despite the crowds. Perhaps it’s because there is virtually no traffic noise in the streets of Old Madrid. With almost all cars banned from the city center, most streets are either pedestrianized or have so little traffic that it’s common to walk most of the time in the center of the street, only moving calmly aside when a car comes sedately along. No cars horns blaring, no sirens, no feeling of imminent demise, and as mentioned, almost no bikes or scooters.
Uber in Madrid
After packing up the show, we call for our first Madrid Uber. I’m surprised that I’m required to enter my passport number before I can order one. Apparently, it’s a requirement of the Spanish government. I have no idea why but I guess I’ll forever be registered in some Spanish government archive as having ordering a 7 euro Uber on October 28, 2023.
Back “home,” we go for lunch at a nearby café that’s packed to the gills with locals enjoying a cheap Sunday lunch. The food is definitely budget-friendly and filling, but the one server is run off his feet and a good lunch is followed by twenty minutes of waiting for il cuenta. Finally, he tends to us after passing by numerous times with a promise to return, only to have us pay the wrong amount! He has to run out of the café to collect an extra thirty cents because I thought the bill read 20.50 and it was 20.80!
Gregg spends the afternoon drawing and I head out for a last swing through the centro to see if I can pick up some Madrid souvenirs. I’ve bought nothing so far in this wonderful city. Souvenir shops are brimming over with tackiness. I snag some jewelry, a flamenco fridge magnet and a mug.
Tango in the Evening
At 7 pm, we meet Claudio and his wife for what turns out to be an epic treat–a performance by two masters of the tango at Café Berlin. One sings and the other plays the harmonica and all the rhythms are inspired by tango.
What a tour de force! Accompanied by an amazing guitarist, the two men entertain us for over 90 minutes. In addition, every so often, guests come up on stage and sing. We love every minute of it. Here’s a link to a video Gregg took: https://www.facebook.com/1262160445/videos/350491717540159/
After the performance, we go out to a marvelous meal with our new friends. As we stroll home through the Sunday evening crowds, we feel very grateful for how well our Madrid odyssey has gone.
Day 14: Monday, October 30 – The Ballet
Last full day in Madrid! I have nothing planned beyond working on my novel in my favorite café, working on this journal, doing some research, going for lunch somewhere, and getting packed up before we head out of town tomorrow.
After my morning stint at the café, Gregg swings by and we go for our last stroll in the Jardines Sabatini across the street. We wind our way down sylvan paths completely alone with the trees and unable to hear the traffic from the street above us. We walk farther than we have in the past and discover a rose garden, more statues, and a few other follies, along with some great views of the palace up on the hill. The leaves are turning fast now and with the sun filtering through, we are in a magical place.
After dropping back into our place to recharge my phone, we set out again to find an art store. Gregg needs to stock up on more conté pastels before the next phase of our trip. During our travels, we spend a fair amount of time searching out art stores.
The big event of the day is a performance of Swan Lake by Ballet Kiev.
Swan Lake
Neither of us has ever seen a full-length ballet (with the exception of The Nutcracker when I was a little girl), so we are excited to see what Ballet Kiev has in store for us. The dancing is beautiful, with glittering costumes and sets. At a mere 40 euros for excellent seats (and no one next to us so we are able to stretch out), the evening is excellent value.
We dance our way home through almost empty streets. It’s a Monday evening and apparently even Madrid sometimes slows down.
Day 15: Tuesday, October 31 – Maestras
Our last morning in Madrid! We pack the car and set off via Uber for the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisz to see a special exhibition of women artists called Maestras.
Our driver is obliged to take almost an hour to get from our hotel to the museum (about a 30-minute walk away) because many roads are blocked off. The Crown Princess is giving her oath fo the constitution in Parliament today and security is tight.
Maestras at Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisz
Finally, we arrive (I add on an extra-big tip!) and we tour the exhibition. It’s excellent! Not only are the pieces chosen gorgeous to look at; the thematic organization is very thought-provoking. Works by so many of my faves are featured, including Artemisa Gentilleschi, Berthe Morisot, Mary Cassatt, and Rachael Rausch.
Time to Say Goodbye
And finally, it’s time to say adios to Madrid and hola to Valencia. We say our good-byes to the staff at the ApartoSuites and promise to return! They have truly made our stay a pleasure.
Minutes later we’re on the road out of Madrid. The GPS doesn’t disappoint and before we know it Gregg’s staring down the A3 for the next three and a half hours.
Even after twelve days in Madrid, we missed a few museums I’d wanted to visit, such as the Costume Museum, and didn’t get a chance to pop into the Reina Sofia to say hi to Picasso’s Guernica. I also never visited the imposing cathedral and I’m sure missed a few more worthy sites.
But hopefully, we will return!
Madrid Walking Tours
GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Madrid!
Madrid Tickets & Tours
Here are lots of options for getting tickets and tours through Get Your Guide. I use their tours frequently and can recommend them wholeheartedly.
I also like the tours and ticket options available through Tiqets.com
Conclusion
Have you been to Madrid? Share your recommendations in the comments below. Also, here are more posts about Spain.
A visit to Lascaux IV in the Dordogne region of France is a must for the artsy traveler. Here you will view the incredible paintings done by our artistically-inclined ancestors over 30,000 years ago (give or take a few centuries).
The size, breadth, and sheer beauty of the paintings definitely will take your breath away.
In this post, I’m sharing my experience at Lascaux IV near the charming town of Montignac in the Dordogne region of France.
We first visited Lascaux II in 1995 almost reluctantly. The original cave closed to visitors in 1963 after they’d been allowed to crowd through for about fifteen years. Unfortunately, bacteria from their breath was eradicating the paintings at an alarming rate.
Lascaux II
Lascaux II opened in 1984–an almost exact facsimile created to show tourists the paintings in the Great Hall of the Bulls and the Painted Gallery. Purists as we were back in those days, we didn’t think a facsimile could be as good as the real thing.
We were very wrong.
Lascaux II was small, cramped, and fabulous. The magnificence of the prehistoric paintings blew us away, particularly inspiring Gregg (my husband & an artist–meet him on the About page) to create several paintings related to our visit. We could hardly believe the paintings were in fact almost exact replicas of the real thing.
Lascaux III and IV
The Lascaux cave’s fame as the premier destination for prehistoric art lovers in France, or indeed all of Europe, continued to grow. In 2012, reproductions of the paintings, called Lascaux III, were taken on the road. Then, in 2016, the massive complex that now houses Lascaux IV and its accompanying museum opened to the public.
Preparing for Our Visit to Lascaux IV
We secured our reservations for the English tour weeks before leaving Canada—and a good thing. There were only three English tours available daily during the three days we were in the Dordogne. Even a month out, only a few spots remained in the time slot we wanted (11:10 am). We snapped them up, printed off our tickets, and looked forward to the ultimate prehistoric treat. We knew the paintings themselves would not have changed since we saw them in Lascaux II, but were interested to see how the Lascaux IV iteration had enhanced the experience.
Buy Tickets in Advance at https://www.lascaux.fr/en
Or check on Tiqets.com:
Location of Lascaux IV
The map below shows the location of Lascaux IV in the Dordogne region of France. It is close to the charming town of Montignac.
We arrive about twenty minutes before our designated time slot and park in the huge lot across from the long, low modern building housing Lascaux IV, built below the hill that houses the real Lascaux cave.
In the airy atrium, we spend the time before the tour starts browsing the gift shop and discovering a whole new level of Lascaux-themed merch. We resolve to return after the tour and make our choices.
But before leaving the gift shop, I can’t resist snapping a pic of a whole wall of prehistoric animal stuffies. Is life truly worth living without a stuffed mammoth? I think not.
The tour begins with a flurry of English-speaking people affixing headsets and audio receivers as the cheerful guide asks if we are “hearing my voice in your head?” After several minutes all thirty or so of us are kitted out and the tour begins in an elevator.
Starting Outside Lascaux IV
We zip up to the roof of the low-slung building and learn about the discovery of the Lascaux cave in 1940. A man was out with his dog Robot (yep, that was the dog’s name) and discovered the narrow entrance to the cave at the top of the wooded hill behind the building. He returned the next day with three boys. They entered the cave through a 15-metre-deep shaft and discovered cave walls covered with depictions of animals—aurochs, bison, deer, horses, and more.
Our guide plays up the drama of the discovery and then invites us to cast ourselves back 30,000 years to imagine leaving the fresh air to clamber into a dark cave. He reminds us frequently that the humans who created the paintings in Lascaux are the same as is, biologically speaking. They were Cro-Magnon, relatively recent arrived in the area which had been inhabited for several hundreds of thousands of years by their Neanderthal cousins.
Entering Lascaux IV
With a flourish, the door slides open and we troop into the narrow cave. Our guide exhorts us to proceed in total silence and with reverence for what we are about to witness. He does a good job of setting the scene.
My art sensors are on high alert.
The door slides shut behind us and we are in the first room. Arching high above us and on the walls either side are an awe-inspiring jumble of painted animals. Some overlap, and the prevailing impression is one of constant, joyous movement. Looking up in the eerie light cast by the guide’s flashlight, the animals sway and gallop across the uneven surfaces of the cave. Each bump and swell of the simulated rock has been incorporated into the bodies of the animals in exact imitation of how the animals appear in the real cave.
Description of Images
The images of animals cavorting above us are not primitive scratchings on a rock wall. This is the prehistoric Sistine Chapel. The beauty and freshness of the vividly colored animals explode in front of us. We gasp with wonder and respect. These early painters truly were artists.
Throughout the tour, the guide emphasizes that we have no idea why the long-ago artists made these paintings. The prevailing theory is that they were made because the artists wanted to make them. In other words, these cave artists were not much different from an artist in any period. They created the animals they saw outside the cave in all their kinetic glory because, well, they just kinda felt like it. Perhaps they painted during the winter when game was scarce. Being inside a relatively warm and cozy cave was better than being outside in the snow.
Who knows!
Types of Images in Lascaux
The cave contains nearly 6,000 figures, the vast majority of which are animals. One bird-headed human figure appears in a shaft that they don’t include in Lascaux IV (but show in the museum). The cave also includes various symbols whose meaning archeologists have yet to determine.
There are no images of the surrounding landscape or the local vegetation. The animals charge across the cave walls and ceiling unencumbered by gravity.
Creating the Images
The artists used three colors: red, yellow, and black made from minerals and sometimes mixed with grease. Tools used include early versions of brushes along with tubes for blowing the paint onto the rock. The museum we enter after touring the replica cave provides many more details.
Hall of the Bulls
First up is the Hall of the Bulls. The clarity, brightness and size of the many images is spectacular. Each animal looks like it was painted yesterday, which is sort of true since it’s a replica, but it’s a replica of what the real caves look like.
The Hall of the Bulls contains 130 figures, including cows, horses, aurochs, and the only bear in the cave. One of the bulls is enormous. Spanning 5.5 meters, it’s the world’s largest known prehistoric representation of an animal.
Also in the hall is the first unicorn—a representation of an animal that never existed in nature. What was the artist thinking? Why did he or she choose to paint it? We’ll never know. The guide spends a lot of time focusing on the unicorn and speculating.
Axial Gallery
We keep going through the hall to the axial gallery, a 30-meter passage dubbed the Sistine Chapel of Prehistory. My favorite is the line of small horses merrily cantering along one wall. Called the Frieze of the Small Horses, they face the direction of the entrance to the Axial gallery. Each one is different in color, size, and shape. I unfortunately did not snap a picture of the little horses later when we entered the museum.
Overhead flow more horses and bulls and cows and aurochs and even two ibexes in a joyous celebration of movement and color. Below is a photo of one of the ceilings, taken from Canva. Photography inside the replica cave is forbidden so I wasn’t able to snap my own pics.
The Nave
Five large stags follow in a row, only their heads and antlers visible as if they are swimming. Also there are two black bison facing back to back with the rump of one placed just ahead of the other to give a 3D effect. They look like they are galloping off in opposite directions.
Where Are the Reindeers?
Being inside the replica cave is somewhat claustrophobic and yet wondrous at the same time. I tried to imagine what compelled people just like me to lower themselves into a cave and use tools and pigments to cover walls with a riot of animals in motion. And what’s even more astonishing is that not one of the animals depicted is a reindeer—the most plentiful animal roaming the landscape at the time.
Why did the artists only depict the less common animals instead of the one they depended on most for food? Again, no one knows.
The population of France during the time when the paintings were created was less than 50,000 people. And yet a fair number of them must have been artists, considering the large number of painted caves in the Dordogne area, elsewhere in France, and in northern Spain. The guide tells us that all the painted caves in existence will never be discovered.
Ending the Tour
At the end of the tour, we emerge into the sunlight to the sound of running water. The guide asks us to consider the role water played in creating caves of hollowed-out rock beneath the earth.
After answering questions, the guide leads us into the museum. Here, each of the main panels in the caves is reproduced so we can study them more closely and also take pictures. As mentioned, photography is forbidden within the caves.
Exploring the Museum
The museum is very high-tech and stylish. I would like to stay longer, but it’s already one o‘clock and tummies are rumbling. After snapping pictures of my favorite parts of the cave, I check out some of the interactive stations where people are invited to try “painting” on the screen using the colors and tools available to the cave artists. It’s all very cleverly done.
Once out, we make a quick pit stop at the gift shop and load up on Lascaux-themed merch. I buy myself a Lascaux mouse pad, a fridge magnet to add to our growing collection, a stylized figurine of an auroch, and a book about Lascaux so we can read about what we’ve just seen.
Tour Options for the Dordogne
Here are some more options for touring the Dordogne area of France. Allocate at least a week for the area. We stayed for just three days and it was not long enough!
Conclusion
A visit to Lascaux IV is a must if you’re traveling in the Dordogne area. It’s located close to the charming village of Montignac. Have you visited? Share your impressions and your tips for other artsy travelers in the comments.
Here are some more wonderful places to visit while traveling in France:
We’ve come to beautiful little Pont-Aven in southern Brittany for six days. The works created by painters of the Pont-Aven School, most notably Paul Gauguin, Emile Bernard and Paul Sérusier, has long intrigued my husband Gregg Simpson. These artists—plus many more over the past century—have found the light and landscape of this corner of Brittany inspiring. Gregg wants to find out if inspiration will also hit him. (Spoiler alert: it does!).
I’m toying with an idea for a character who comes from a provincial French town and makes her way to Paris during the Belle Époque. Why not have her come from Pont-Aven? I resolve to spend the week soaking in the atmosphere and the vistas, and learning what I can about what life was like here in the 1880s.
Tuesday, October 2
Morning in Rennes
After breakfast at our hotel in Rennes (Hôtel Anne de Bretagne—a good choice for a one-night stay), we set off to explore the medieval streets of Rennes, the capital of Brittany. The city allegedly has the greatest number of half-timbered medieval houses still standing in France—360 houses in total. We don’t think we’ll have time to see all 360, but I’m determined to see a goodly portion of them. Armed with a route I mapped out from various blog posts about Rennes and its medieval architecture, we set off.
There are few people on the streets on the fine and sunny Tuesday morning. We walk about ten minutes, retracing our steps from our post-dinner stroll the night before, then turn a corner and voilà! We come face to face with the famed Rennes medieval houses—well, a few of them at least.
Half-Timbered Houses in Rennes
They are gorgeous! Half-timbered, often painted, some crooked and leaning out into the street. It takes a very small leap of the imagination to see myself back in the 1400s so long as I keep my gaze upwards to avoid looking at the modern storefronts at ground level.
After a while, we notice that ghostly images of what we think are white ferrets fill the windows of many of the half-timbered buildings. These are the buildings that must be in the process of being preserved because instead of storefronts at the bottom, there are … ferrets. We quickly become obsessed with snapping pictures of these rather creepy guys!
En Route to Pont-Aven: A Stop in Josselin
We leave Rennes and take our time driving to Pont-Aven. According to our navigation system, it’s just two hours away, and since we can’t check into the house we rented until 4 pm, there’s no need to rush.
On our way, we stop in Josselin. I had no idea it would be as pretty as it turned out to be. I was looking on Google Maps for a good place to break our journey. A click on Josselin showed it had a château. I’m always up for checking out a château, so we set the navigation system for Josselin.
Wow! Josselin is adorable! Its half-timbered houses have been meticulously renovated and restored, many painted in bright colors.
The town is small—really more of a village, so it doesn’t take long to walk along its cobbled streets and down toward the river where stands the château. It opens in an hour, but we won’t wait to go in. In my experience, most French châteaux are pretty much empty inside, and according to the website, the château at Josselin is no exception. We opt instead to walk down by the river and snap photos in the glorious October sunshine.
Arrival in Pont-Aven
Then it’s back in the car and onwards to Pont-Aven. At 4 pm, we enter Pont-Aven, our home for the next six nights. We’ve visited the town twice before—first in 1995 when Gregg discovered its association with several of the painters he admires, and again in 2013 when we spent a night there during a short jaunt to Brittany. Both times, we loved the picturesque little town and hoped it hadn’t changed.
The navigation system wants to take us across what looks like a pedestrian plaza. We balk and opt for the long way around that ends in a very sharp turn up a very steep driveway marked privé. But the address is correct and so Gregg barrels up the road and makes a second very sharp turn into the parking area.
Although I’d seen pictures of the place on booking.com, I am not prepared for just how stunning it is, perched on a ridge with a view across the boat-choked inlet. Called Le Fusain, the house itself is large and modern with a massive kitchen, a large living/dining area, a master bedroom with attached bathroom downstairs, and two smaller bedrooms and another bathroom upstairs. It’s too big for us but we don’t mind. And it’s an incredible bargain, compared to what we paid in Paris and Amsterdam.
The person who manages the place shows us around and then leaves us to get acquainted with our new digs. We both stake out our work areas—me at the modern dining room table in the living room (left) Gregg at the large wooden table in the kitchen (right), and resolve to use a lot of our time to get stuck into some work.
First Stroll Into Pont-Aven
But first, we must check out Pont-Aven and buy food for dinner. We set off down the hill for our first of what will be several forays into exquisite little Pont-Aven. I can’t stop snapping pictures!
Eventually, we end up at the Intermarché near the edge of town, load up on provisions, and head back up the hill to our beautiful domain. That night, we enjoy a light dinner of crêpes stuffed with ham and cheese. Divine (and also so much cheaper than eating out!).
Overview of Pont-Aven
Henry Bacon, an American artist, “discovered” Pont-Aven in the 1860s. Many more artists began flocking to the area, attracted by the light and the beauty of the town and the surrounding landscape. Painters came from Scandinavia, England, and the United States, but were all called the Americans by the locals. Pont-Aven‘s reputation as a mecca for artists was cemented in 1886 when Paul Gauguin arrived. Other artists in the Impressionist and Synthetist school soon followed, including Émile Bernard and Paul Sérusier. Their work became known worldwide as the “School of Pont-Aven”. Their likenesses are painted on a wall in Pont-Aven. From left to right – Sérusier, Bernard, and Gauguin.
Check out my post on the Musée d’Orsay for some of the most famous examples of their work.
Wednesday, October 4
Pont-Aven weaves its magic spell around us and we can’t get enough of enjoying its many vistas. We set off mid-morning for our first real exploration. Pont-Aven is located at the end of a very long inlet. It’s a good 90-minute walk along a wooded sentier to get to the sea. Back in the day, the town was a popular fishing port, apparently attracting so many French sailors that locals tended to speak French rather than Breton as did most of the people in the surrounding towns and villages.
Bois d’Amour
We head first to the tourist information office and pick up a map of the area and directions to the Bois d’Amour—the Wood of Love, a delightful walk alongside the river where Paul Gauguin and Paul Sérusier first “discovered” abstraction. Well, that’s the legend, anyway. The very spot where Gauguin apparently told Sérusier how to use color vibrantly is marked with a plaque as well as the painting that Sérusier created, entitled Le Talisman.
We are entranced by the beauty of the walk as well as the almost complete absence of other people. A visit in October is just the ticket to avoid crowds. The area is very popular with holidaymakers during the summer months.
Pont-Aven is tiny and yet boasts 60 art galleries! Pretty much every shop on the four main streets that make up the town is an art gallery of some sort. Most of the art in the galleries is of the sailboat landscape variety, competently done but not that interesting.
Thursday, October 5
After a morning walk into town for coffee and croissants followed by catching up on writing (me) and doing some drawing (Gregg), we head out at 4 pm to explore the area by car. Our first goal is to find the sea! We know we’re close—we can smell it and hear the seagulls, but so far we haven’t yet seen it. That changes pretty quickly after we leave Pont-Aven and drive along beautifully winding country roads to emerge onto our first beach. It’s wide and windy and absolutely stunning. It’s also empty.
For the next two hours, we swoop and swerve along the country roads, stopping every so often to admire yet another sea view of blue ocean and rocks tortured into weird shapes.
Visit to Concarneau
At close to 6 pm, we drive into Concarneau, a relatively large town that consists of a modern portion on the mainland and then a walled old city across a bridge in the harbor. We arrive just in time to watch the merchants closing up their shops. Here’s a shot of the old town from the new town. One of the flags is a Canadian flag!
I had thought we’d eat dinner in the old town but nope. The drawbridge comes down at 6:30! We have a quick walk around and then go in search of restaurant on the street facing the harbor. We are the first people in at 7:15 and ushered upstairs to a table with a lovely view over the harbor (see below).
The server is attentive and friendly. He happily speaks English and laughs good-humoredly at our attempts to order in French. While we eat, the place fills to capacity. Ours is the only server and I watch fascinated as he deftly and efficiently attends to the many tables.
We order steak and both have too large a piece to finish. I ask the server for a box and he brings me a large plastic container into which I unselfconsciously stow our leftovers. It will make a perfect dinner the next day. I remember a time when asking for a “doggie bag” just wasn’t done in France, but fortunately all that’s changed, and a request to pack up leftovers doesn’t even elicit an eyebrow raise.
Friday, October 6
We decide to stay close to home and make a visit to the Musée Pont-Aven our priority. Good call! The museum is wonderful! After four days in Pont-Aven, I’m getting plenty of inspiration for my WIP (Work in Progress) and have decided that an American artist must play a role, preferably a female American artist. Were there any?
Musée Pont-Aven
The museum provides the answer! The oldest painting by a female artist visiting Pont-Aven was done in 1883 by Marie Luplau, a Danish artist and ardent feminist. Apparently, many women artists came to the town to paint during the period, including Emily Carr at the beginning of the 20th century. Marie’s painting is of the Bois d’Amour, where we walked the day before.
Ideas ping and pong off each other as I wander the beautifully curated displays at the museum. In the first room, I take a picture of every single frame of a short slide show about Pont-Aven in the 19th century when it first started attracting artists. Pictures of people at the time in which an historical novel is set provide a wealth of information about what people looked like, what they wore, what the houses were like, and so on.
What strikes me most is how little Pont-Aven has changed. Although now attracting thousands of tourists a year, the town has kept its original buildings and flavor so that photographs taken in the 19th century don’t look all that much different from photographs taken today. Here are just two of the many photos I snapped.
I also learn that local people wore wooden shoes—a nice detail to file away for future reference.
The museum includes works by all the main School of Pont-Aven artists, including the “Big Three”: Gauguin, Sérusier, and Bernard. Here are some highlights.
Les Porcelets by Paul Sérusier
This delightful piece beautifully combines cold blues in the background and warm yellows in the foreground and, while not abstract, definitely shows tendencies towards favoring shapes over realism. It’s a good example of the aesthetic of the Pont-Aven School in its use of simplified lines, bright colors and unusual framing that cuts off the top of the woman’s body.
La Grammaire by Paul Sérusier
This painting represents Sérusier’s interest in the sibyls, ancient prophetesses, but his version is a contemporary Pont-Aven woman. I love the simple shapes and flat planes of the piece, and also how the woman’s hand clasps the book. She looks like she’s just come in from milking the cows, so having her writing in a book like she’s a scholar is both jarring and intriguing.
Special Exhibition
We check out the special exhibition on the second floor and are blown away to discover it’s an exhibition of women artists and photographers who documented their travels in the 19th century. These were some pretty intrepid women—traveling all over the world to paint and photograph local landscapes and people. The exhibition is a great example of how, finally, artwork made by women is being showcased in major exhibitions.
Saturday, October 7
Quick Trip into Quimper
We set off mid-morning for a day trip to Quimper followed by another country drive, this time in search of prehistoric sites. Quimper is the oldest city in France and is known for its cathedral and its many beautifully preserved half-timbered houses. We arrive and park, then make our way into the delightful town. The central area is compact, with plenty of attractive houses to photograph and lots of shops selling local delicacies. We wander around, stop for a good lunch at a café overlooking the cathedral, buy Gregg more art supplies, and then set out in search of prehistory.
Menez Dregan
A thirty-minute drive takes us to the coast to a site called Menez Dregan, a paleolithic site of major importance. We are suckers for paleolithic sites (see my post about Prehistory Sites in Europe) and are astonished to discover that evidence found in the oldest layers of the rock at the site show that it was inhabited around 465,000 years B.C.
Excavations have uncovered flint tools, bones (especially from large mammals like perissodactyls, and an elephant’s tooth) and hearths, making the site one of the oldest in the world where fire is known to have been used. It’s beautifully situated. We sit on a rock and look out to sea, imagining our distant ancestors pausing in their work to gaze out at the same sea on a warm October afternoon.
Getting Lost in Brittany
We leave Menez Dregan and for the first time on the trip, our navigation system lets us down! The main road back to Pont-Aven is blocked but nobody told Madame GPS with the soothing English accent. As a result, she keeps trying to take us to the same exit over and over again. Finally, I tell Gregg to take another exit that leads in the opposite direction and try to plot a route using my phone’s Google Maps across country back to Pont-Aven. We end up driving a good hour longer than we should have, but we do eventually make it home. Fortunately, the bucolic Brittany countryside we drove through made the extra time fly by.
Sunday, October 8
Our last day in Pont-Aven is just as warm and beautiful as each of the days we’ve spent here. The weather is eerily warm for this time of year—high twenties every day. We decide to spend most of the day at our place, finishing up work and generally relaxing before setting out on another road trip the next day.
We walk down to the town and have a delicious lunch of crêpes and salad. Pont-Aven on a warm October day is hopping—the busiest we’ve seen it all week. We end the day with a final stroll down to the inlet to get rid of our garbage. Because our house is on a private road, there is no garbage pickup. As a result, we need to take our garbage down the hill and across the bridge to some public poubelles in a park. I’m not sure what people do if they have a lot of garbage! But after just under a week, we can easily transport our two bags.
And then it’s back up the hill one last time. We’ll miss this little corner of heaven in Pont-Aven. There’s even a cross on a rock alongside the little private road leading to “our” house.
En Route to La Rochelle
After saying good-bye to the manager of the house, we set off for Carnac on our way south to La Rochelle, our destination for the night. We’ve resolved on this trip to never drive more than three or four hours in a day. La Rochelle on the Atlantic coast is about four hours south of Pont-Aven and four hours north of our next destination in Les Eyzies in the Dordogne, so it’s a good choice for a break.
We’ve visited Carnac twice over the past thirty years and both times been blown away by the sheer number of stones in the famous alignments. They really are remarkable! And what were they for? No one really knows.
We park and share a picnic lunch, then check out a few of the largest stones. These days, people are not allowed into the alignments. Thirty years ago, Gregg walked up to a gate and asked a farmer if he could go in to take some pictures, and the farmer was happy to open the gate and usher him in. That wouldn’t happen now!
And finally, a rare photo of the two of us! An obliging hiker was walking by as Gregg was taking a picture of me in front of the alignments and asked if we’d like one of us together.
Touring Brittany
Brittany is a very large department, so choose an area to home base in. We’ve spent time in northern Brittany on the spectacular Côte Granite Rose and in the Gulf of Morbihan area. Here are other posts on Artsy Traveler about various areas in Brittany:
