My favorite regions in Italy range from Milan and the Dolomites in the north to Naples in the south. Unless you have several months to spare, you can’t really “do” all of Italy in one trip.
You’ll spend far too much time traveling and far too little time enjoying. Pick one or two regions and spent a week or two in each.
As Rick Steves says, “travel like you plan to return.”
Map of Favorite Regions in Italy
The map below shows approximate locations of the main regions in Italy that I recommend you explore. I’ve visited all of them except for Sicily (coming soon!).
I’m going to start in the north and move south because we often drive to Italy, so that’s the direction we enter the country from.
Here are the five regions of Italy I suggest you explore:
Northern Italy: Turin, Lake Como, Milan, Dolomites
Venice and Ravenna
Tuscany and Umbria
Rome
Compania: Naples, Pompeii, Amalfi Coast
In this post, I give a brief overview of these areas and provide links to more in-depth posts.
Northern Italy
You could spend at least a week traveling through the regions of northern Italy.
Milan Cathedral
From east to west, I recommend Turin, Lake Como, Milan, and the Dolomites. Spend at least a week in the north (not counting Venice which deserves at least three days on its own). You won’t run out of things to do!
Highlights of Northern Italy
Here are some of my favorite artsy highlights (a by no means an exhaustive list) in northern Italy:
Turin: The Egyptian Museum – Museo Egizio is first-rate. It houses one of the oldest collections of Ancient Egyptian artifacts in the world. Even if you’re only moderately interested in ancient Egypt, put it on your list.
Milan: The Duomo, Da Vinci’s Last Supper, and La Scala just for starters. There’s lots to see in Milan and it has a very different vibe (calmer in my opinion) than Rome.
Italian Lake District: Spend several days exploring the many small towns and the various lakes; gorgeous views, great food, lots of history.
The Dolomites: Drive as far up as you can and then take a chairlift or gondola even higher. The alpine culture is very different from the rest of Italy.
Don’t stint on the time you allocate to visiting Venice. The city is worth at least three days (preferably longer). You could choose to spend a week in the area–three or four nights in Venice, a night in the Veneto to visit Vicenza and Padua, and then head south to spend two nights in glorious Ravenna (more on Ravenna in a minute).
Rialto bridge in stunning Venice
You don’t need a car in Venice and you can reach the other towns in the area by train.
Ravenna is a delightful small city south of Venice, most famous for the mosaics in the eight Christian monuments on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
While many of these sites, particularly the most famous mosaics in the Church of San Vitale, attract the tour busses, the rest of Ravenna is wonderfully non-touristy. Relax in the main square and watch the world go by. Ravenna has a subtle charm that made me want to write a novel set there just so I could go and stay for a good long while.
Piazza del Popolo in the evening, Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy
While we were in Ravenna, we watched a bride and groom emerge from a church and get into a red Ferrari, stopped into an art opening and drank white wine with the two Italian artists who were exhibiting their paintings, and enjoyed one of the best meals we’ve ever had in Italy at Ristorante Alexander. Check out the website and make a reservation! The food was to die for and the prices very reasonable.
TIP: When dining in Italy, make use of review apps and websites to find good restaurants. Every time we’ve taken the time to search out well-rated restaurants and to make reservations, we’ve been amply rewarded by fabulous meals.
Highlights of Ravenna: Touring the UNESCO World Heritage Sites
The mosaics in the early Christian monuments are the big draw in Ravenna, as noted earlier.
TIP: Buy your combination ticket for the six UNESCO sites in central Ravenna at any of these locations: the Basilica San Vitale, Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, Neonian Baptistery, and the Archbishop’s Chapel.
The sixth site–the Arian Baptistery–is free and worth a visit to view the well-preserved domed mosaic, dating from the early 6th century AD, that shows Christ being baptized by John the Baptist.
At just €9.50 for entrance to all these sites, the Ravenna Mosaics combo ticket has to be one of Europe’s best artsy bargains. In addition to the six sites in central Ravenna, don’t miss the remaining two UNESCO sites. The mausoleum of Theodoric is a short walk from the town center, and the Church of Sant’Apollinare in Classe is an 8-kilometer drive towards the Adriatic coast.
Mosaic in Ravenna featuring the Empress Theodora
Staying in Ravenna
We were driving when we visited Ravenna, and so, as usual, we stayed in a hotel on the outskirts. We then took taxis into the city and from there walked to seven of the eight UNESCO sites in the center of Ravenna. On our last morning in Ravenna, we drove to the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe.
Toscana! The very name evokes warmth and good living and beauty while at the same time associated with a deliciously turbulent history.
All those towers and walls and fortifications in towns such as San Gimignano and Siena and Lucca were not built back in the Middle Ages because life was easy. The architecture of Tuscan hill towns screams strife.
The Fortress of Montalcino, a hill town in Tuscany
At the same time, the museums and churches of Tuscany burst at the seams with art–much of it created between 1300 and 1600, from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance.
We’ve been visiting Tuscany for years and plan to return. We’ve only recently “discovered” Umbria and were taken with its less touristy, more authentic atmosphere. While I love Tuscany, it can get overrun with visitors, particularly in Florence.
TIP: I recommend allocating at least a week to exploring Tuscany and another week for Umbria. Spend a few days in Florence to see the highlights and then if you have a car, find a house or an agriturismo property to rent for several days or a week in or near one of the medieval towns in Tuscany. Take day trips to other towns, bearing in mind that driving in Tuscany can be slow going on the twisty, narrow roads.
In a typical week, reserve a few days for just staying put and enjoying bella Toscana.
If you don’t have a car, you can still stay in the country, but choose a place that provides some assistance with transportation. You can join local tours such as wine tours (highly recommended!). Some properties offer cooking classes and painting classes.
After your week in Tuscany, spend a week in Umbria. The areas around Perugia or Assisi are good choices.
You won’t run out of things to see. I guarantee it!
The Eternal City takes hold of your psyche with the weight of its 2,000-plus-year history and the central role it has played in the development of western culture.
Rome will not be denied.
Piazza Navona in Rome in the morning
I’ve visited Rome several times since my first trip there with my parents in 1974. During our most recent trip, Gregg and I spent ten days enjoying the city during Gregg’s exhibition of his paintings at a gallery near the Vatican. We lived like locals in an apartment in the same area and set aside time every day to explore new areas of Rome.
Here are additional suggestions for what to see in Rome, including tours.
Naples and the Compania
Naples is kind of crazy–or at least it was when I visited a few years ago. We keep meaning to get down there again to see how or if it’s changed. I rather hoped it hasn’t.
I have a vivid memory of being driven in a taxi through downtown Naples and noticing how the driver barely slowed down at stop signs caked with dirt. Apparently, obeying them was optional. The driver pulled up in front of the National Archeological Museum in Naples, reputed to be one of the best museums in Italy for Roman antiquities. He then turned around and announced chiuso. Closed.
Oh. Those were the days before the Internet took the guesswork out of travel planning. Our only day in Naples was also the only day of the week when the museum was always closed.
That mistake wouldn’t happen nowadays which is a good thing although sometimes I miss the serendipity of the “olden” days when plans could so easily be derailed.
View of the Bay of Naples, the city of Naples, and Vesuvius in the distance
Museums in Vienna are world-class. You can easily spend several days exploring museums that cater to just about every artsy interest–from painting to music to theater and much more.
In this post, I describe the museums I’ve enjoyed visiting and a few that I’ve yet to visit (but want to!).
Museum Passes
If you enjoy touring museums and have two or more days in Vienna, consider purchasing a Vienna PASS. You’ll be able to skip the line to popular attractions, get in free to more than 60 attractions, including the Belvedere Palace and St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and ride the hop-on hop-off sightseeing bus. It’s a pretty good deal and it saves you time.
Another less expensive option is the Vienna Flexi PASS that allows you to customize your itinerary. Check which attractions they offer to see if you’ll save money.
Map of Vienna
Use the map below to get your bearings when touring Vienna. It’s a very walkable city with most of the museums clustered in the museum district.
So let’s dig into my suggestions for best museum experiences in Vienna. As you’ll quickly discover, Vienna really is one of Europe’s best destinations for museum lovers. The only trouble is that you need to pace yourself. All those long, marble-floored corridors are hard on the knees. Take your time! It’s better to enjoy fewer museums and enjoy yourself than try to see them all and be too exhausted to take in a concert in the evening and enjoy a plate of weiner schnitzel.
Assume you’ll return! And while Vienna is a great place for museum-going, it’s also a wonderful place to just sit back and watch the world go by. There’s a reason that Vienna consistently ranks in the top ten of the world’s most livable cities.
Kunsthistorisches Museum
Start at the Kunsthistorisches Museum (#1), Vienna’s answer to the Louvre and one of Europe’s best. The museum is located at Maria-Theresien-Platz in the Imperial Palace complex and exhibits the art collection of the Habsburg family. They were also known as the House of Austria and for several hundred years ruled a large chunk of Europe.
Skip the line by purchasing your tickets to the Kunsthistorisches Museum online before you leave. You save time and are guaranteed entry into this marvelous museum.
The Kunsthistorisches Museum includes several collections.
Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna
Egyptian and Near Eastern
You’ll find one of the world’s most important collections of Egyptian antiquities at the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Take a tour of the collection which includes more than 17,000 objects. I always enjoy a good Egyptian museum, and the collection here is first-rate.
Greek and Roman Antiquities
The collection spans 3,000 years. I’m particularly fond of the Greek vases decorated with scenes of Greek life.
Kunstkammer Wien: The Cradle of the Museum
This relatively new area of the Kunsthistorisches Museum (opened in 2013) contains over 2,200 fabulous artworks. The Habsburg emperors were busy collectors from the late Middle Ages to the Baroque Age. You’ll find sculptures, clocks, objets d’art, scientific instruments, automatons, and a lot more.
The list goes on. Have a good look. You won’t regret it.
Picture Gallery
The collection in the Picture Gallery at the Kunsthistorisches Museum includes several pieces by Pieter Bruegel the Elder that you’ll probably recognize if you like 16th-century Dutch painting. You’ll also find masterpieces by Caravaggio, Titian, Rubens, and one of my favorites, Arcimboldo, who really had a way with food.
We bought a jigsaw puzzle of one of the Arcimboldo paintings in the marvelous museum gift shop. I do like a good museum giftshop and the one at the Kunsthistorisches has a great selection.
Collection of Historical Musical Instruments
I write about the incredible collection of historical musical instruments in Music Lover’s Guide to Vienna. On my solo trip to Vienna, I spent a happy afternoon enjoying the rooms full of pianos and harpsichords and various other instruments. The collection of Renaissance and Baroque instruments is reputed to be the finest in the world.
I was in heaven, particularly because this area of the massive Kunsthistorisches Museum was virtually empty. If I’d been so inclined, I could have played one of the pianos, and probably no one would have been the wiser. I didn’t try. The prospect of even a short stay in a Viennese prison did not appeal, even if it’s likely to be well maintained and serve wiener schnitzel.
The Kunsthistorisches Museum also includes the Coin Collection, an Armory, and lots more, but you get the picture. The museum is worth a good chunk of your day. Alternatively, pace yourself and space your visit across a few days. It depends on your stamina because plenty of museums await you in Vienna’s Museum Quarter.
The Kunsthistorisches Museum is open daily except Mondays from 10 am to 6 pm and on Thursdays from 10 am to 9 pm. Check the website for current ticket prices.
Natural History Museum
The architectural mirror image of the Kunsthistorisches Museum is the Museum of Natural History (#2) opposite it. Although natural history museums are not, strictly speaking, artsy sights, I have a soft spot for them. Vienna’s Museum of Natural History is excellent, on par with the Natural History Museums in London, New York, and Washington.
The big draw in Vienna’s Museum of Natural History is the squat statue of the wonderfully fecund Venus of Willendorf. She’s a clay figurine just 11.1 centimeters tall, reputed to have been made between 24,000 and 22,000 BCE, which is a long time ago on any calendar.
Although little is known about how or why she was made, you have to think her purpose had something to do with fertility. I mean, seriously! Look at her! Because she lacks defined facial features, some philosophers and archeologists view the Venus of Willendorf as representative of a universal mother.
Well, I certainly took to her. She’s displayed in a special, atmospherically lit case that will probably be surrounded by other museum-goers. Wait your turn and then spend a few minutes contemplating universal motherhood and also thinking about the people who made this exquisite figure. How had they used her? Had she been cherished? I like to think so.
Animal Displays at the Museum of Natural History
The Museum of Natural History is a marvel, with one of the many highlights being the massive second floor containing several high-ceilinged, ornate rooms chock-a-block with stuffed animals.
When we walked into the reptile room on our family trip, I had to sprint through it with my eyes closed. Stuffed snakes in glass cages filled the massive room from floor to ceiling. And I don’t mean the cute plush variety of stuffed snakes. Oh no. I’m talking about very real, very menacing, very snakey snakes. Ugh!
Fortunately, the other rooms made up for the trauma of the reptile room. The Vienna Museum of Natural History gets top marks for taxidermy.
Museums in the Museum Quarter
Vienna’s Museum Quarter (MQ) (#3) in central Vienna is truly a remarkable cultural area. Housing over sixty cultural institutions, the MQ is one of the largest districts for contemporary art and culture in the world. You’ll find museums and events devoted to art, architecture, music, fashion, theater, children’s culture, literature, dance, street art, photography, even gaming culture. This is the place to be if you love the arts.
Highlights of the MQ directly related to visual art include viewing modern art at the LeopoldMuseum, MUMOK – the Museum of Modern Art and Kunsthalle Wien, and visiting the remarkable Kunst Haus Wien–Vienna’s first ecological museum. The MQ is always open and entry is free. Relax in the various courtyards and engage in some serious people watching.
Hanging out in the Museum Quarter in Vienna
Here are four of the major art museums in the MQ. For more information about what’s on, including special events, check the MQ website and the websites for the individual museums. The range and breadth of cultural activities truly is breathtaking!
Leopold Museum
The Leopold Museum (#4) exhibits the world’s most important collection of paintings and works on paper by Egon Schiele who, along with Gustav Klimt, is one of the best-known Austrian artists of the 20th century.
Egon Schiele, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
MUMOK – Museum moderner Kunst Stiftung Ludwig Wien
MUMOK (#5) is the largest museum of modern and contemporary art in central Europe (and that’s saying something!). You’ll find an amazing collection that features works of classical modernism (my favorite) by artists such as Picasso, Mondrian, and Magritte to mention only a few, along with pop art, Fluxus, minimal art, and concept art, as well as Vienna Actionism and contemporary art.
MUMOK in the Museum Quarter in Vienna
Kunsthalle Wien
The Kunsthalle Wien (#6) fcouses on temporary exhibitions of contemporary art. I confess I’m not generally a fan of contemporary art, but if you are, check the website for current exhibitions.
Kunst Haus Wien
Vienna’s first ecological museum, the Kunst Haus Wien (#7), features contemporary art with a focus on photography. You have to check out the building–it’s remarkable with colorful tiles, uneven floors, and irregular structures. The museum also houses the Museum Hundertwasser which displays the largest permanent collection of works by Friedensreich Hundertwasser who designed the building for the Kunst Haus Wien and is also one of Austria’s most famous artists and visionaries.
Visit Kunst Haus Wien for a very different experience!
The Meeting Place at the MuseumsQuartier (MQ) is one of the largest cultural quarters in the world. You’ll need another day to tour the MQ and also hang out in its public spaces.
Belvedere Palace
If you are a fan of Gustav Klimt, don’t miss the Belvedere Palace (#8). Here you’ll see the world’s largest collection of Klimt’s paintings, including his masterpiece, The Kiss, and the iconic Judith I. You’ll also find a good 19th-century collection that includes work by Monet and van Gogh.
Gustav Klimt, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The baroque Belvedere Palace itself is worth visiting to see its magnificent ornamental gardens and the stunning views of Vienna.
Other Museums in Vienna
Here’s a list of several other art museums in Vienna that are worth a visit.
Click the links to buy your tickets in advance or check if the Vienna PASS or Flexi PASS includes admission or discounts.
Albertina Museum
The Albertina Museum (#9) contains the world’s most important graphic collections along with works by Monet, Renoir, Chagall, Miro, Magritte, Munch, Picasso, and more. You can also visit the Albertina – Modern a few blocks away, which is Vienna’s new museum of modern art.
Theater Museum Vienna
I always go out of my way to visit a theater museum (my third novel The Muse of Fire is set in the theater). The collection at the Theater Museum (#10) in Vienna includes over 1,000 stage models, 600 costumes, and a lot of props that bring the history of theater in Austria to life. So much to see!
Jewish Museum (#11)
Learn about Vienna’s Jewish life from the Middle Ages to the present. Check the website for temporary exhibitions.
MAK – Museum of Applied Arts
The MAK (#12) is a “museum for arts and the everyday world.” Its extensive collection focuses on the applied arts and the interface of design, architecture, and contemporary arts. MAK’s permanent collection includes one of the world’s finest collection of lace and glassware, particularly Venetian glass (I’m a sucker for Venetian glass). You’ll also find a collection of textiles and carpets, and lots more. Check the website for current exhibitions.
And here are more fun museums that are great if you’re traveling with kids (or even if you’re not!).
Music Museums in Vienna
Vienna is the City of Music–home to an impressive number of the world’s most famous composers–Beethoven, Mozart, Haydn, Schubert, Strauss, and Mahler. And several more composers stopped by to perform, including Chopin, Liszt, Schumann (Robert and Clara), and Brahms.
A highlight of my solo trip to Vienna was visiting Pasqualati House where Beethoven lived and worked for a while. He changed apartments a lot, apparently.
Me in front of Vienna’s Pasqualati House, one of the places where Beethoven lived
The top music museums in Vienna include:
Beethoven Museum (#13)
The House of Music (also known as the House of Sound)(#14), with five floors of first-rate, music-themed exhibits; not to be missed
In 2021, I again put my European travel plans on hold and instead travel with my daughter to Nova Scotia and stunning Prince Edward Island. On one magical evening, we splash out on an Experience with a capital E—a stay at the five-star Inn at Bay Fortune and an evening enjoying the FireWorks Feast. Billed as an “immersive farm-to-table dining experience”, the FireWorks Feast is the brainchild of Chef Michael Smith.
As a long-time fan of cooking shows, I was familiar with Chef Michael, one of Canada’s best-known chefs. He and his wife purchased the Inn at Bay Fortune a few years ago and have transformed it into a truly memorable destination.
Is Food Art?
When food is presented like it is at the Inn at Bay Fortune’s FireWorks Feast, I’d say yes. Very much so.
The Inn at Bay Fortune in Prince Edward Island, Canada
Farm Tour at the FireWorks Feast
We arrive at the Inn at 4 pm just in time to grab a drink and head out across the massive lawn overlooking Bay Fortune on the southeast coast of Prince Edward Island to join our fellow FireWorks Feasters for the first leg of the FireWorks Feast Experience.
My daughter, Julia, holds her drink and mine in preparation for the Farm Tour portion of the FireWorks Feast
The Inn’s resident farmer, Kevin Petrie, stands in the middle of a circle of vibrantly painted Muskoka chairs (also known by my U.S. readers as Adirondack chairs) and holds forth about the Inn’s remarkable herb garden.
Raised beds containing herbs on the front lawn of the Inn at Bay Fortune on Prince Edward Island, Canada
Kevin’s talk is the start of an hour-long farm tour that will take us from the front lawn to the extensive farm behind the Inn that features greenhouses, nursery beds, a mushroom patch, apple orchards, and even a Pots & Pans Trail.
Pots and pans hanging on a tree along the Pots & Pans Trail at the Inn at Bay Fortune on Prince Edward Island
Kevin is a font of information about growing organic food. I learn that the cilantro plant yields at least eight edible parts, including roots, leaves, and flowers that each have a different taste and texture. The seeds are called coriander – a tidbit of knowledge I’d vaguely known and have now confirmed.
I also sample a chunk of the crispest, sweetest cucumber I’ve ever tasted—almost crisp and sweet enough to turn me from a cucumber tolerator to a cucumber enthusiast.
Farmer Petrie stands in front of one of several greenhouses on the farm at the Inn at Bay Fortune
I learn that the soil on the farm is like a chocolate layer cake – aerated and full of goodness, spongy, dark, delicious – and a wellspring of nutrition for the plants.
We tour an experimental area called the nursery to view dozens of varieties of tomatoes, some of which are almost black The purpose of the nursery is to discover which tomato varieties work best in the climate and the terroir.
Ah, the terroir – the earth from which the plants spring. Terroir garners tremendous respect, veneration even. The terroir creates the food we put into our bodies to nourish ourselves.
Oyster Hour at the FireWorks Feast
We walk from the farm back toward the Inn to find a tall man with grizzled grey hair tied in a tight ponytail. It’s Chef Michael himself standing with shovel in hand in front of a large, smoky fire on which oysters will soon be roasting.
Chef Michael Smith greets guests in front of roasting oysters at the Inn at Bay Fortune
An engaging speaker, Chef Michael exudes an infectious enthusiasm and passion for food, for sustainability, and for terroir. He tells us that the oysters we’re about to slurp were harvested in Bay Fortune that very afternoon. No more than a few hours separate their plucking from the sea to Chef Michael’s shucking knife.
We’ve reached the Oyster Hour portion of the evening that is devoted to sampling a variety of appetizers, including as many oysters as we can slurp. First up are oysters dotted with butter and nestled into the coals of the open fire. I select one and suck it back—tasting the sea, of course, but also a warm, smoky, buttery flavor.
Oysters quickly roasted over an open fire are ready for savoring
Raw oysters are offered next, shucked right in front of us by Chef Michael and then dotted with dollops of fresh-chopped tomatoes from the farm. My daughter Julia is not a seafood lover (where did I go wrong?), but she gamely agrees to try her first raw oyster. Chef Michael instructs her—slurp, chew, swallow.
Julia holds the oyster to her lips, closes her eyes and tilts her head back.
And then, in full view of Chef Michael Smith, she spits the oyster back into the shell. Oops! But he is good-humored about it and commends her for at least trying.
Julia has better luck with some of the other appetizers. She enjoys slices of smoked salmon, delicate pink and so fresh as to be practically swimming, served atop a crisp, salty cracker, along lobster mushrooms on a taco with Sriracha – heat exploding across chewy smoothness.
Julia has better luck with the salmon appetizer
Pre-Feast Toast
After an hour of sampling appetizers, we gather in front of the flagpole on the lawn overlooking Bay Fortune. Chef Michael directs our attention to the large Canadian flag snapping in the wind at half-mast. He alludes to why, but doesn’t explain, evidently trusting that the gathered company already knows. I wonder if they do and hope so. For readers who may not know, most Canadians have flown the flag at half-mast throughout the summer of 2021 in memory of the thousands of indigenous children across Canada who never returned from residential schools.
Chef Michael then proposes a toast with a sparkling, bubbling Prince Edward Island “champagne” (Benjamin Bridge Bubbles). The assembled guests (about 75 people) raise their glasses and then troop gratefully into the airy dining room to enjoy six more courses of the FireWorks Feast. Julia had thought we’d eat to the accompaniment of real fireworks, but no. FireWorks refers, literally, to fire and works, meaning that most of the food we consume has been cooked over fires fed with local wood.
The FireWorks Feast Begins
We are seated at the window – a perfect spot from which we survey the wide expanse of lawn leading to the sparkling waters of Bay Fortune. As the evening progresses, golden light floods across the grass, turning it into a shimmering expanse of brilliant, molten green. Slowly, the sky turns soft pink, then mauve, then indigo as night descends over peaceful Prince Edward Island. A bonfire flares, its bright orange flames a promise of life in the darkness.
Farm, Fires, & Feast booklet at our place setting
Special FireWorks Feast Bread
First up is the bread tree – a metal “tree” in which nestles a small loaf of warm, fresh-baked sourdough bread described as made from 100-year-old naturally fermented heritage flour and baked in a wood oven. It is brown, dense, and sinfully delicious.
A trio of spreads invites extensive investigation. My favorite is the maple brown butter – sweet and creamy, but also light—frothy even. Pork pâté made from a happy pig (that’s what the server said!) is subtly flavored; again, the texture is silky smooth. Finally, I savor a lighter-than-air cheese pâté, the flavors so delicate as to be almost undistinguished.
Our bread tree with a trio of spreads
Although I’m already almost full from the oysters and other scrumptious appies from the Oyster Hour, I nevertheless chow down on two hunks of fresh bread and far too many slatherings of spreads. I know this is a mistake – the bread is only course two of seven. Seven! Already, I need a rest.
A cool white wine from Nova Scotia provides the perfect accompaniment – not too strong, a blend that truly complements the food rather than overpowers it. There is the option to have four pours of four different wines for $75. I am tempted, but decide that even my indulgence quotient has limits.
Soup Swimming with Seafood
Course three is seafood chowder for me and a chicken broth with veggies for Julia. My chowder overflows with plump and sweet scallops and clams, bright orange mussels, dense clumps of crabmeat and lobster, along with haddock, salt cod, beach wort (whatever that is), dulse (seaweed?) and potatoes, all swimming in a delicate creamy broth. The flavors do not overpower. They blend and dance across the palate, inviting slow savoring.
This is not the place to gobble your food.
Delectable seafood chowder
Both of us eat only half our soups, prompting the lovely young server to ask if we liked it. I hastily reassure her that the chowder is spectacular but that I need to leave room. I’d taken Chef Michael’s exhortation to eat as many oysters as we wanted far too seriously and, not wanting to let down the side for western Canada, had eaten three or four too many.
The Best Salad in the World at the FireWorks Feast
The next course is my favorite – all vegetables, and OMG what vegetables! I watch Chef Michael at the open-plan chef station dump fresh greens plucked mere hours earlier from the farm into a massive bowl. Surrounded by an impressive number of earnest-looking and mostly young chefs-in-training, Chef Michael tosses the greens with his hands. The hefty price tag for this foodie experience is feeling increasingly reasonable considering the value we’re getting.
The chefs portion the salad of herbs, shoots, stalks, stems, leaves, buds, fruits, and a plethora of brilliantly colored edible flowers into a bowl for every two people. We also receive an individual plate smeared with root vegetable purées – ash-baked beets, smoked parsnips, and roasted carrots, along with lentil sprouts and something called seedy soil that turns out to be a pleasantly crunchy, sweet and salty garnish I could have eaten all night.
Trio of vegetable purées with lentil sprouts and seedy soil
We are instructed to place a few tongfuls of the greens (studded with popcorn – seriously!) over the plate of pureed vegetables to experience the different textures and tastes.
The parsnip cream is to die for, and I don’t even like parsnips. Even the beets go down a treat – the rich red color alone worth the price of admission. I want to eat every scrap of the greens, but my tummy is starting to groan. How am I going to manage the main course?
But back to the greens – crisp, tart, sweet, earthy, fresh – I feel like I’m eating a garden, which I suppose I am. My favorites are the flowers – startling orange nasturtiums and soft violet pansies that are peppery and sweet and crunchy. I’ve only just discovered the glories of eating flowers and am now a firm convert. Every so often, a leaf from one of the farm’s 26 herb beds—mint, basil, and many more tastes I don’t recognize—glides across my palate like an Olympic speed skater.
Green salad studded with colorful flowers and popcorn at the FireWorks Feast
I reluctantly leave a fair amount of greens in the salad bowl, having practically licked the plate clean of its purée smears, and await the main course. Chef Michael and his crew are hard at work plating the two choices—brisket or halibut. I made the difficult choice when we arrived earlier but was torn. I adore halibut and almost never get it, but brisket! And I figure brisket smoked and prepared by a world-class chef had to be, well, world-class.
Chef Michael plates the main course
Main Course – FireWorks Beautiful Brisket
The main course arrives, the slabs of brisket and flatiron steak artfully (well, duh) arranged over an intriguing assortment of roasted root vegetables. But alas, my stomach rebels. I can manage only a few nibbles of wonderfully flavored kale and some brisket before having to give up. Would it be completely low-brow to ask for a doggy bag in a place like this? I envision enjoying a slab of the brisket (melt-in-your-mouth, for sure) later that evening. It would taste sooooo good then, whereas now – nope. I am far too full to appreciate it.
The main course is brisket with root vegetables
But as my dad used to say, they’ll not see you again, so I asked our server if I could have the brisket to go and she cheerfully offers to bring me a box. Phew! Later that evening and again for breakfast, I feast on the most tender, flaky, flavorful brisket I’ve ever tasted. Just enough of the salty au jus clings to the meat to give it flavor without overwhelming it.
Always Room for Dessert
Can we manage dessert? Well, of course. Dessert is a different stomach, right? Also, the gap between main course and dessert is, to my relief, long enough to give my system time to re-calibrate.
Dessert is a haskap berry tarragon meringue/sponge cake topped with blueberry cream and a scoop of lemon verbena ice cream. I eat every morsel.
Dessert at the FireWorks Feast
And still we are not done! Over at the chef station, one of the young chefs is affixing rectangles of blueberry marshmallow to the ends of long sticks. Outside the window, the crackling flames of the campfire beckon. We pick up our marshmallow sticks and proceed to the campfire. Melty, blueberry, sticky. Oh yeah!
But unfortunately, swarms of unwelcome guests also show up to enjoy campfire time. We learn the hard way that the mosquitoes on Prince Edward Island are tiny but vicious. Funny – I never remember reading about mosquitoes feasting on Anne of Green Gables.
The Morning After
Before checking out the next morning, I take a copy of my novel Love Among the Recipesto Reception and ask that it be given to Chef Michael as a thank-you for a wondrous experience. The woman at the desk tells me I can give it to him myself since he’s just around the corner in the dining room working on the evening menu.
Feeling a trifle presumptuous, I nevertheless present Chef Michael with my novel. He graciously accepts, telling me he thinks it looks like something he and his wife would enjoy. I’m honored, and float away from the Inn feeling that our Prince Edward Island splurge is one for the memory books.
Love Among the Recipes finds a new home at The Inn at Bay Fortune
If you’re traveling to Prince Edward Island during the summer months, consider spending the night at the Inn at Bay Fortune and an evening enjoying the FireWorks Feast. You’ll come away with a renewed appreciation for fresh and nutritious food grown with love.
Visit Vienna and Salzburg to enjoy some of Europe’s quintessentially artsy travel opportunities. Concerts, world-class museums, and incredible art await. If you’re a classical music fan (Mozart, Beethoven, Strauss, oh my!), you’ll be in 7th heaven.
Find out why I recommend travel to Vienna and Salzburg in this post!
I first visited Austria on a skiing holiday in 1975 and fondly remember the friendliness of the people and the gorgeous Tyrolean scenery in the ski resort town of Sölden. Since then, I’ve spent most of my Austria sightseeing time in Salzburg and Vienna (my particular favorite). In fact, my second novel A Woman of Note about a female composer in the 1830s is set in Vienna.
Artsy Sightseeing in Salzburg
When I first visited Salzburg with my family, I drove them crazy (short drive) with my constant references to my favorite musical of all time–The Sound of Music.
Yes, I know. It’s sentimental and over-the-top, but I loved it when I first saw it in the theater as a child and I still watch it every few Christmases. Those songs just don’t get old.
I threatened to embarrass my family by breaking into song at strategic locations.
To their relief, I never did, but I was rather surprised to discover that The Sound of Music was not always popular in Salzburg. On my first visit in 1999, I could find only a small pamphlet about the movie in the gift shop at the castle (AKA the Hohensalzburg Fortress shown below–one of Salzburg’s major attractions).
The Hohensalzburg Fortress looms above the rooftops of the Baroque historical district.
All that has changed. You can find information about shooting locations on the official Salzburg website and you can take Sound of Music tours. According to the website, more than 300,000 fans visit Salzburg every year to walk in the footsteps of the von Trapp family in the original shooting locations.
Touring Salzburg
We loved wandering around Salzburg. It’s a stunningly beautiful small city dominated by the Hohensalzburg Fortress. Apparently, the fortress is the largest preserved castle in central Europe and has become the symbol of Salzburg as the City of Mozart.
You can visit the Fortress year round. Tour the Fortress Museum to view historical exhibits about courtly life, the Marionette Museum, and the Altes Zeughaus which has interactive displays focused on the development of cannons, armaments and firearms (not really artsy, but interesting nonetheless!).
Part of the fun of a visit to Salzburg is riding the funicular from the Festungsgasse. Admission is included with the Salzburg card. Go early to beat the crowds (always good advice with popular tourist attractions in Europe).
Hohensalzburg Fortress in Salzburg
Mozart in Salzburg
One big reason people visit Salzburg is to worship at the feet of Mozart who was born there in 1756.
If you’re visiting Salzburg, you can’t help but notice its love affair with its most famous son, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. He was born in Salzburg on January 27, 1756 and died on December 5, 1791 in Vienna at the age of 35. Mozart wrote over 600 works, including symphonies, concertos, chamber music, operas, and choral music. Ask anyone to name a great composer and chances are if they don’t say Beethoven or Bach, they’ll say Mozart.
Salzburg styles itself as the City of Mozart. If you like Mozart-themed chocolates and other souvenirs, you’ve come to the right place (you’ll also find them in Vienna!).
The big Mozart attraction is Mozart’s House at No. 9 Getreidegasse in the heart of Salzburg’s old city. Tour the house to see items of everyday life from the period, memorabilia that documents Mozart’s life in Salzburg, and several historical instruments.
To get the lay of the land quickly, consider signing up for the City Center Bus Tour and Mozart’s House. The tour also includes visits to filming locations for The Sound of Music.
Concert-Going in Austria
For me, attending concerts in Austria has two benefits.
First, I get to hear awesome music played by local orchestras, often in the concert halls where the music was first performed. I get goosebumps listening to a concert of Mozart’s work just steps from the house in which he was born.
Second, concerts that are part of local festivals are generally tourist-free. Plenty of tourists attend the special Strauss/Mozart concerts put on for the bus tour groups. These tourist concerts are great, don’t get me wrong. But if you want to be one of the few people in the audience who isn’t a local, check out the many musical festivals and concerts that attract a primarily Austrian crowd.
On the other hand, this strategy can backfire if you don’t do as the Austrians do. Let me explain!
A Tourist Faux Pas at a Concert in Salzburg
One year, we snagged tickets to a concert at the International Mozarteum Foundation building (Internationale Stiftung Mozarteum) in Salzburg. The concert was called Sturm und Drang (Storm and Struggle) and featured piano pieces by Liszt. Anticipating a fiery afternoon of pyrotechnic piano playing, we happily entered the ornate concert room and took our seats.
Within minutes, we became acutely aware that we stood out like stupid-tourist sore thumbs. Although the day was searingly hot, every single person in the audience wore formal dress. The men were decked out either in tuxedos complete with cummerbunds or in full dress uniforms, medals sparkling. The women shimmered in long evening dresses and dripped with pearls and diamonds as they swished into their seats.
Gregg wore ratty, paint-daubed shorts and a T-shirt, Julia wore pink shorts and a grubby T-shirt (hey, we were on holiday–who does laundry?), and I wore my decidedly hippy-dippy, no-crease travel dress. We looked like country bumpkins.
We also seriously miscalculated the appeal of the program. The music was by Liszt all right, but most of the program consisted of delicate, gossamer settings of Schubert’s lieder. The music was beautiful, no doubt about it, but it was also really, really, really slow. After fifteen minutes of trying desparately to look entranced, I wanted nothing more than to curl into a ball under my chair and snooze away the afternoon hidden from the disapproving gaze of all those well-dressed Austrians. And as for twelve-year-old Julia, who, despite our best efforts at the time, was not much of a classical music fan, sitting still in the oppressive heat was agony.
We left at the interval.
That said, don’t let our experience put you off investigating concerts while you’re traveling, especially in Austria where music concerts are as common as lunch.
Tours and Tickets in Salzburg
Here are some options in Salzburg:
Staying in Salzburg
Salzburg is not a large town, but save your legs and stay somewhere in the old town center so you can walk to all the attractions. You’ll pay more, but the convenience will be worth the extra euros. Check the map below for some options.
Vienna is one of Europe’s loveliest cities. It’s small enough to be easily walkable, at least in the charming city center. And there’s a lot to see, particularly if you enjoy art and music.
Vienna has been ranked by consulting firm Mercer as the most livable city in the world for ten years running.
Quick side note: My home town of Vancouver, Canada was recently ranked number 3 in the same survey. I think we have Vienna beat for scenery and recreation, but Vienna is head and shoulders above Vancouver when it comes to world-class museums and cultural events. And Vienna’s laid-back ambience, historic coffee houses and slabs of sachertorte are also features that Vancouver can’t compete with.
Getting Around Vienna
In Vienna, consider purchasing a Vienna City Card & Airport Transfer ticket before you leave home. I pre-purchased my transportation tickets and was very glad I did because I never did figure out how to pay for the trams. Fortunately, I had my city card so if I was stopped (I never was), I was legit.
A smooth train whisks you from the airport to the center of Vienna in just 16 minutes. You can then catch public transit from the U. Look for the blue U signs at the entrances to the subway stations.
Sign for the U train–the subway in Vienna
On both my trips to Vienna, I spent a lot of time walking around the cobbled streets and people-watching. Stephansplatz in the center of Vienna is the perfect place to hang out and watch the action.
Cityscape image of Vienna, Austria with St. Michael’s Square at sunrise
Music is a major reason to visit Vienna. My Music Lover’s Guide to Vienna provides a great deal of information about enjoying music in Vienna. You’ll also find plenty of other arts-related sightseeing opportunities in Vienna.
Museums in Vienna
Vienna has an amazing number of first-rate museums. In fact, it has an entire Museum Quarter. If you are a museum-goer, you might not emerge for days.
Consider purchasing a Vienna PASS. You can use it to skip the line at popular attractions, get free admission to over 60 attractions including the Belvedere Palace and St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and ride the hop-on hop-off sightseeing bus. It’s a pretty good deal and saves you time.
A less expensive option is the Vienna Flexi PASS that allows you to customize your itinerary. I haven’t used either pass, but in my experience, such passes can be good value. Check exactly which attractions they offer to calculate if they’ll save you money.
Be sure to enjoy a concert or two while in Vienna. You can purchase tickets from Mozart-costumed touts in Stephansplatz for the tourist shows, or go online and find local concerts.
Also check the web for music festivals and concerts being presented during your time in Austria. Every time I’ve visited Austria, I’ve found a classical music festival–or two–to attend. You can also look for performances by the state opera, the Vienna Boys’ Choir, and the Vienna Philharmonic. If music is your thing, visit Vienna during the season–from about October to May.
Tours and Tickets in Vienna
Here are some other options for sightseeing in Vienna.
Staying in Vienna
Vienna is an expensive city. Expect to pay €250-400 or more for a centrally located, good-quality hotel room in Vienna. When you’re looking for accommodation in Vienna, choose places within the old city walls.
You could opt for a budget hotel on the outskirts but I don’t recommend doing so. You’ll waste too much time commuting through dreary suburbs into the wonderful city center. Spend the money and book a good hotel in the old city.
I made the mistake of being budget conscious to a fault on one trip to Vienna when I booked an apartment about a 40-minute tram ride from the city center. Sure, the place was inexpensive, but the hot water ran out on the second day and it was located in a nondescript neighborhood, kilometers from the action.
Apartments can be a good bet in Vienna, but again, book one in the center of the city. You’ll find excellent ones listed on HomeAway and on Booking.com. Click on the map below to find places to stay in Vienna.
Read novels set in Austria to get you excited about your trip or, even better, to read while you’re there. Numerous authors have been inspired to set novels in Austria, particularly novels inspired by Austria’s rich cultural heritage.
Each of the novels listed in this post relates in some way to the arts–from Klimt to Mozart to Beethoven. The rich cultural life of Vienna has inspired many authors (including me!). Many are set in the late 18th century when Mozart, Hadyn, and Beethoven walked the streets of Vienna, or at the end of the 19th century starring such luminaries as Klimt and Mahler.
And yes, one of the novels set in Austria is mine! A Woman of Note is my second novel. I spent several days in Vienna researching it. Walking in the footsteps of Beethoven, attending concerts, and drinking in the culture of Vienna left me with many cherished memories.
Set in Vienna a century ago, this tale of Alma Mahler, wife of the composer Gustav Mahler and a composer herself, is part cautionary tale, part triumph of the feminist spirit.
In the dazzling glitter of Vienna at the turn of the last century, Adele Bloch-Bauer—young, beautiful, brilliant, and Jewish—meets painter Gustav Klimt and begins a passionate affair.
Photography illuminates this simple tale of a lonely man searching for his lover; a complex study of obsessions, set in Austria and spanning two centuries.
In 18th-century Vienna, Mozart’s estranged sister, Nannerl, stumbles into a world of ambition, conspiracy, and immortal music while trying to discover the truth about her brother’s death.
The great composer himself is cast as an amateur sleuth in 18th-century Vienna in this first in a series of Joseph Haydn mysteries. If you love this one, you’ll be glad to know there are two more!
In Book 2 of the Joseph Haydn mystery series, Kapellmeister Joseph Haydn receives a curious a message from Kaspar, an impoverished violinist with an ailing wife, asking Haydn to evaluate a collection of scores reputed to be the lost operas of Monteverdi. But before he can examine the works, Kaspar is murdered—beaten and left to die in front of a wine tavern.
In Book 3 of the Joseph Haydn mystery series, Hadyn receives an unexpected invitation from wily King Frederick. Worse still, the invitation appears to stir up suspicion in the highest quarters in Vienna—so much so that a mysterious cloaked lady visits Haydn’s Music Room and issues a thinly veiled threat.
The Woman in the Moonlight by Patricia Morrisroe
A stirring and romantic historical novel about 19th-century Vienna and the tragedy and dynamic passion that inspired Beethoven to write his beloved Moonlight Sonata.
When an English quartet, the Maggiore, undertakes a challenging work of Beethoven’s, violinist Michael Holme is overwhelmed by memories of mastering the piece as a student in Vienna. That’s also where he met Julia McNicholl, a pianist whose beauty was as mesmerizing as her musical genius and whom Michael loved with an intensity he never found again.
When the assistant manager of a hardware store in rural New Jersey shows up at the offices of Cubbage & Wakeham, an elite New York auction house, with a worn musical manuscript he hopes to sell for a small (or perhaps hefty) fortune, he is greeted with subdued snickers—not surprisingly. The title page of the document reads, “William Tell: A Dramatic Symphony” and is signed “Ludwig van Beethoven.”
Christopher Alt, piano maker, is the best in Vienna, probably in all of Austria and possibly the world. His piano keys have given life to melodies by Mozart, Haydn, Beethoven, and many others. On his deathbed, he leaves a will specifying that his descendants, if they are to get their inheritance, must live together in the family home. Over successive generations of the Alt family, history itself passes through the doors, down the halls, and into the private rooms of the Alts’ building.
Want more novels set in Austria? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.
Guidebooks About Austria
My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on Austria. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.
Conclusion
Have you read a novel set in Austria, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Check out these posts that provide suggestions for what to read in other European countries:
The walnut tree is the reason the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo was built.
Every Roman citizen knew about the tree and the large number of black crows–an unnatural number–that clung to its branches every day. And it was common knowledge that the tree had everything to do with the Emperor Nero.
In the Renaissance, people wondered why the crows always flocked to that particular tree. It was unnerving, especially to the merchants and officials who used the Flaminia roadway which led north out of Rome. They had to pass right by the tree because the city’s walled gate was next to it.
They were convinced that the shiny, black, rustling tree caused bad luck. Mishaps on their various journeys only confirmed this. They became so fearful of the evil that inhabited the area that they finally demanded the Church fathers do something about it.
Every Roman citizen knew about the tree and the large number of black crows–an unnatural number–that clung to its branches every day. And it was common knowledge that the tree had everything to do with the Emperor Nero.
In the Renaissance, people wondered why the crows always flocked to that particular tree. It was unnerving, especially to the merchants and officials who used the Flaminia roadway which led north out of Rome. They had to pass right by the tree because the city’s walled gate was next to it. They were convinced that the shiny, black, rustling tree caused bad luck. Mishaps on their various journeys only confirmed this. They became so fearful of the evil that inhabited the area that they finally demanded the Church fathers do something about it.
Origins of Santa Maria del Popolo
There are many reasons why the churches in Rome were built and many reasons for their chosen locations. The church of Santa Maria del Popolo is located on the site of the walnut tree that grew over the very spot where the despised Nero’s body had been unceremoniously buried some 1500 years earlier. Nero obviously now haunted the place; people had seen him there. Only a church built on that spot would calm the populace. And it needed to be made important. If the Pope recognized the church, it would become a Basilica.
The order eventually came down from Pope Paschal II. The situation had become a social scandal, and this was his official solution. Important artists must be commissioned to decorate its side chapels and ceiling. The artistic works created for it would need to spring from such important themes that even God would notice it.
For the project, the Church recruited renowned artists Caravaggio, Raphael, and Bernini, who all enjoyed fame during their lifetimes. (Well, Caravaggio was definitely known, but not necessarily for his art.) If you’re unfamiliar with these gentlemen artists of the 16th century, I must tell you that they are very famous in the art world. Legendary, even.
What’s Special about Santa Maria del Popolo
In situ is Latin for “in place” and is the term given for paintings, mosaics, frescoes, and sculptures that are still in the exact spot for which they were commissioned, for where they were designed to be. It is always special when one views something in situ, especially a major work.
And that is why I love Santa Maria del Popolo. It lays claim to two Caravaggio paintings, sculptures by Bernini, and a mosaic ceiling designed by Raphael. These creations have remained undisturbed in their precise positions. They could have easily been moved to some world-class museum or other, to bolster their daily visitation numbers and be celebrated at members-only cocktail events that the press would cover with uneducated glee. But something even more amazing happened: the works stayed where they were and as a result are almost unknown.
Location of Santa Maria del Popolo on the Piazza del Popolo
Located a bit out of the way at the north end of Piazza del Popolo, Santa Maria del Popolo sits quietly, without banners or signs. One would never know that it displays mind-boggling, priceless art. The masterpieces are not featured in any special way. You must actually go looking for them.
In the Chigi Chapel, you’ll find products of the genius of both Raphael and Bernini. Raphael obviously based his mosaic ceiling on the most important theme he could think of, The Creation of the World. It is so incredible that even as you are staring at it, your eyes tell you that it’s a painting, not a mosaic.
Raphael, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Statues by Bernini
All the amazing statues in this chapel are by Bernini. If you’re not familiar with Bernini, you’ll want to check out more of his beautiful statues, mostly notably those in the Borghese Gallery in the lovely Borghese Gardens in Rome.
In the Cherasi chapel, you’ll find the two astounding canvas paintings by Caravaggio positioned directly opposite one another—the sensual Conversion on the Way to Damascus and the gut-wrenching Crucifixion of Saint Peter.
Conversion on the Way to Damascus, Caravaggio, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The theme of Peter (as in the apostle Peter of Vatican fame) being crucified upside down in Rome as the Bible describes is not a theme that many artists favor. Perhaps that’s because it is simply too horrific. Caravaggio was not afraid of much, it appears, and clearly threw caution to the wind.
Crucifixion of Saint Peter, Caravaggio, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Visiting Santa Maria del Popolo
You’ll be surprised at the lack of visitors inside the Basilica; you may well be the only one. The reason is simply that most people don’t know about the place or what makes it special, even after being featured in Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons.
The Church of Santa Maria del Popolo is located at 12 Piazza del Popolo, next to the north stone gate and is free to enter. It’s open daily with sporadic hours; check their website for the days of your visit: rome.net/santa-maria-del-popolo. Avoid visiting on a Sunday during Holy Mass because you won’t be allowed to freely wander. Phone: Intl. calling: (011) 39-06-631-0836 / Local calling: 06-631-0836
Happy travels,
Andie Easton
Read about Andie Easton and her wonderful series of books!
Most of the world-class art exhibitions that were scheduled to open in galleries and museums in Europe in 2020 were postponed to later in 2021 or 2022.
The following list of art exhibitions in Europe in 2021 doubles as my personal wish list. If I’m lucky enough to return to Europe this fall, I plan to take in at least a few of them. And if not, 2022 here I come.
My list of art exhibitions in Europe includes all the exhibitions that I’d go out of my way to see, which means it reflects my interests and preferences. I hope you also find some exhibitions that pique your interest and that you are able to get to. But if not, reading about them may be the next best thing. My list also includes arts-inspired novels related to the subjects of the exhibitions. For more artsy novels, check out Art In Fiction, the sister website to Artsy Traveler.
Basel
Sophie Taeuber-Arp: Living Abstraction at the Kunstmuseum Basel
The Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber-Arp “pioneered a form of abstraction that fused elements of Dadaism, avant-garde experimentalism, and her technical training as a teacher of applied art.” Until recently, Sophie Taeuber-Arp was over-shadowed by her better-known husband, Jean Arp, but she and her work were very influential. Also, her paintings are delightful. This exhibition is the first to present a comprehensive retrospective of Sophie Taeuber-Arp’s work to an international audience.
Following its exhibition in Basel, which runs from March 20 to June 20, Sophie Taeuber-Arp: Living Abstraction travels to the Tate Modern in London (July 15 to October 17) and then to the Museum of Modern Art in New York (November 21 to March 12, 2022).
Vermeer: On Reflection at the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister
One of Vermeer’s most famous works–Girl Reading a Letter at an Open Window–has been a feature of the collection at the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister in Dresden since 1742. This masterpiece–and its stunning restoration–will be the centerpiece of the exhibition that includes nine other paintings by Vermeer along with over 50 works of Dutch genre painting from the second half of the 17th century A segment of the exhibition will also feature Vermeer’s painting technique and the recent restoration of the Girl Reading a Letter at an Open Window.
The exhibition is scheduled to run from April 6 to December 9. For more information and to purchase tickets, check the website.
Suggested Reading
Girl with a Peal Earring by Tracy Chevalier from the Visual Arts category on Art In Fiction transports readers to a bygone time and place in a richly-imagined portrait of the young woman who inspired one of Vermeer’s most celebrated paintings.
The Vermeer Deception by Jennifer S. Alderson from the Visual Arts category on Art In Fiction is a fun mystery set in Munich, Heidelberg, and Amsterdam in which an art historian finds–and then loses–a portrait by Johannes Vermeer.
London
Epic Iran at the Victoria & Albert Museum
This massive exhibition explores over 5,000 years of art, design, and culture in Iran. The Victoria & Albert is one of my favorite museums in London, and in my experience, their special exhibitions are first rate. The monumental Epic Iranexhibition includes both ancient and modern works. Here are some of the highlights:
Horoscope of Iskander Sultan from 1411
Jewelry, such as an armlet from 500-330 BC found in present-day Afghanistan
Pottery, such as a bottle and bowl with poetry from 1180-1220
Costumes, such as a woman’s jacket, blouse, and skirt from 1800
Contemporary paintings and sculptures
The exhibition is set to open on May 29. Check the website for up-to-date information.
Victoria & Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, London
Suggested Reading
The Blood of Flowers by Anita Amirrezvani from the Decorative Arts category on Art In Fiction is an historical novel set in 17th-century Persia.
The Stationery Shop by Marjan Kamali from the Literature category on Art In Fiction is an historical novel set during a time of political upheaval in Tehran in 1953.
Jean Dubuffet: Brutal Beauty at the Barbican Art Gallery
I’ve long been a fan of the work of Jean Dubuffet. Many years ago, we drove to the village of Périgny-sur-Yerres about fifteen miles southeast of Paris in search of the Fondation Dubuffet, but alas, we arrived to find it closed. Those were in the days before smartphones on which access to museum websites is now a finger swipe away. We did get to peek through the fence to see a portion of Dubuffet’s distinctive white and black sculptures. Fortunately, a few years ago we were able to clamber around Jardin d’émail (the “garden of enamel”) installed in the expansive sculpture garden surrounding the marvelous Kröller-Müller Museum near Arnhem.
The Brutal Beauty exhibition at the Barbican Gallery is scheduled from May 17 to August 22. The exhibition is the first major survey of Dubuffet’s work for over 50 years and showcases four decades of his career, including his whimsical statues, butterfly assemblages, and giant canvases.
The exhibition also includes Dubuffet’s personal collection of Art Brut works. The term Art Brut, coined by Dubuffet, translates as “raw art”.
Check the Barbican Gallery website for more information.
Dürer’s Journey: Travels of a Renaissance Artist at the National Gallery
First off, I love any excuse to visit the National Gallery in London. Its collection of masterpieces takes my breath away–from Turner to Monet to Botticelli to Artemisia and so many more. Almost every room contains a painting that I recognize. Check out this overview of the collection highlights and you’ll see what I mean.
The exhibition of work by Albrecht Dürer is scheduled to run from November 20 to February 27, 2022 and it looks amazing. Ever since visiting Dürer’s home in Nuremberg, I’ve been a firm fan. Actually, I admired his work for many years before that, but visiting his home and watching a demonstration of how he made his famous woodcuts really cemented my opinions.
Dürer’s home and museum in Nuremberg
Dürer’s woodcut of a rhinocerous
The National Gallery exhibition follows Dürer’s travels across Europe through his paintings, drawings, prints, and letters. From the exhibition description: Charting his journeys to the Alps, Italy, Venice and the Netherlands, the exhibition will explore how Dürer’s travels sparked an exchange of ideas with Netherlandish and Italian Renaissance artists, fuelled his curiosity and creativity, and increased his fame and influence across Europe.
Check the National Gallery website for more information and to get tickets. Or join the National Gallery and go for free.
Suggested Reading
The Relic Master by Christopher Buckley from the Decorative Arts category on Art In Fiction is an “hilarious, bawdy, and irreverent …tale” about a 16th-century relic hunter and artist Albrecht Dürer who conspire to fabricate Christ’s burial shroud.
Drifts by Kate Zambreno from the Literature category on Art In Fiction is a story of artistic ambition, personal crisis, and the possibilities and failure of literature in which a woman’s love for the work of Albrecht Dürer plays a role.
Madrid
Georgia O’Keeffe at the Thyssen-Bornemisza
This major retrospective of the work of Georgia O’Keeffe is the first in Spain and is a complete survey of O’Keeffe’s career from 1910 to her death in 1986. I think the exhibition may be similar to the one I saw at the Tate Modern a few years ago. If so, it’s a must-see–one of the most beautifully curated and informative special exhibitions I’ve ever seen.
If you’re lucky enough to be in Madrid between April 20 and August 8, make a beeline for the Thyssen-Bornemisza, which in itself is worth an extended visit. The permanent collection includes an awesome collection of medieval art along with major works, from the Renaissance to the 20th century.
Georgia by Dawn Tripp from the Visual Arts category on Art In Fiction is a dazzling work of historical fiction that brings to life Georgia O’Keeffe, her love affair with photographer Alfred Stieglitz, and her quest to become an independent artist.
Queen of the Owls by Barbara Linn Probst from the Photography category on Art In Fiction is the powerful story of a woman’s search for wholeness, framed around the art and life of iconic American painter Georgia O’Keeffe.
Paris
Botticelli at the Musée Jacquemart-André
Oh, how I hope I can see this exhibition! It’s scheduled to run from September 10 to January 24, 2022 which means if my planned trip to Europe in September happens, I’ll get to see it. Botticelli is one of my favorite Renaissance artists. I love the clarity of his figures, the subtle ways in which he uses color, and his depiction of draped material, not to mention the way he paints curly locks of red hair in masterpieces such as The Birth of Venus.
The exhibition at the Musée Jacquemart-André is being touted as a major survey of Botticelli’s works. Forty works by Botticelli will be on display along with several paintings by contemporaries who were influenced by him.
Botticelli is a popular subject for authors. Several novels listed on Art In Fiction are inspired by his life and work. Here are two:
Botticelli’s Muse by Dorah Blume from the Visual Arts category on Art In Fiction is a provocative historical novel about Botticelli and his conflicts with Florence’s Medici family, and the woman at the heart of his paintings.
The Most Beautiful Woman in Florence by Alyssa Palombo from the Visual Arts category on Art In Fiction is a lush and sensual interpretation of Medici Florence, artist Sandro Botticelli, and the muse that inspired them all.
Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France
The Giacometti: A Family of Creators, Fondation Maeght
The Fondation Maeght is one of my favorite museums in France and is included in my post on the Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe. Whenever we’re traveling in the south of France, we always stop into the Fondation Maeght to see what’s on.
Gregg at the Fondation Maeght
The Giacometti: A Family of Creators exhibition highlights the Giacometti family of artists, starting with Alberto Giacometti, its most famous member. Many of his sculptures are already permanent features in the gardens at the Fondation Maeght. Also exhibited is work by his father Giovanni, and his cousin Augusto, both painters, as well as his brothers Diego, the middle brother, sculptor and designer, and Bruno, the youngest brother and architect.
If you are able to make it to any of these exhibitions, please share your experience in the comments below.
I love Paris so much that I set my fourth novel there. Love Among the Recipesis about a cookbook author who reinvents herself by moving to Paris. The novel is also my love letter to Paris–one of my favorite cities in the world.
In Love Among the Recipes, cookbook author Genna McGraw writes a cookbook/guidebook that matches Parisian sights such as the Eiffel Tower with recipes for bistro-style French dishes such as steak haché.
The next time you visit Paris, use this post to visit the places featured in Love Among the Recipes. Included are descriptions of the sights along with links to some of their matched recipes.
No visit to Paris is complete without a visit to the Eiffel Tower! This iconic monument symbolizes the City of Light. For the most romantic experience, ascend the Eiffel Tower at night.
In Love Among the Recipes, the Eiffel Tower is the first sight Genna visits soon after her arrival in Paris. From the second level, she enjoys both the view and the passing parade of tourists. She also comes up with the idea for the first recipe for her cookbook/guidebook–Steak Haché et Frites.
Here’s how Genna describes this staple of the menu enfant–the children’s menu:
One beef patty, grilled and crispy, accompanied by a mound of light, hot, salty, and crunchy french fries—the best fries in the world. Steak haché et frites was as basic as cooking got in France.
The Eiffel Tower–the most iconic structure in Paris
Get tickets to the Eiffel Tower in advance to avoid very long lines. The Eiffel Tower is open year round from 10:30 am to 6:30 pm (9:30 am to 11:45 pm from June 1 to September 1).
Arc de Triomphe
The Arc de Triomphe stands proudly in the middle of the Place Charles de Gaulle (formerly known as the Place de l’Étoile), oblivious to the traffic swirling around it. I know whereof I speak. In the days before Google Maps and GPS, we took a wrong turn and were swept into the Place Charles de Gaulle. Gregg had to circumnavigate the unusually large roundabout (twelve exits!) numerous times before finally crossing a frightening number of lanes to reach our exit. I still break out into a cold sweat when I think of that drive.
Begun in 1806, the Arc de Triomphe honors soldiers who fought in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. Directly under the arch is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier who was killed in World War I.
You can wander around and under the Arc de Triomphe for free, but you’ll pay to climb the stairs to the top. The glorious view of the Place Charles de Gaulle, Champs-Élysées, the Tuileries, and the Eiffel Tower in the distance is well worth the price. WARNING: Don’t even think about trying to cross the Place Charles de Gaulle! Use the pedestrian tunnels located around its perimeter to lead you safely under the traffic.
The Arc de Triomphe marooned in the middle of a river of speeding cars
L’abbaye de Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Dating from the 6th century, the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés is the oldest church in Paris and contains some notable frescoes. The current church was built in the 12th century, with the distinctive spire added in the 19th century. The abbey is also where the heart of philosopher René Descartes is buried.
In Love Among the Recipes, Genna rents an apartment on the top floor of a building steps from the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. I modeled her apartment on one I stayed in with my family in 1995. The needlepoint reproduction of La Grande Odalisque by Ingres that hangs in Genna’s apartment was inspired by a similar (and equally hideous) version that hung in the apartment we rented.
Close to the church are two famous cafés in which several scenes take place: Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore. While sitting at a table overlooking the church, Genna decides to pair it with a recipe for French Onion Soup. This version comes from My Parisian Kitchen.
The Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Les Invalides
Napoleon’s mammoth tomb and an impressive military museum (Musée de l’Armée) is housed in Les Invalides and is worth a look for Napoleon buffs.
When life starts to go sideways for Genna in Love Among the Recipes, she makes a tearful visit to her grizzled but kindly landlord and most loyal taste-tester. After pouring her heart out to him while savoring shots of fine Napoleon brandy, Genna pairs Les Invalides and its Napoleonic associations with Steak Diane Flambéed in Brandy. This recipe is created by Emeril Lagasse and comes from the Food & Wine website.
Les Invalides, home to the tomb of Napoleon
Les Invalides is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm, except for January 1, May 1, and December 25. Get priority entrance tickets here.
Notre-Dame Cathedral
The partial destruction of Notre-Dame Cathedral in 2019 broke the hearts of many cathedral lovers, including me. Some of my most memorable moments in Paris were spent in the vicinity of Notre-Dame. Several times, I attended music concerts in the cathedral and was blown away by the sublime sound and medieval atmosphere.
In Love Among the Recipes, which is set several years prior to the fire, Genna matches Notre-Dame Cathedral with Lemon Sole with Butter Sauce. Here’s the description she wrote for her cookbook/guidebook:
A visit to Notre-Dame Cathedral takes you into the heart and soul of France. Emerging from a recent cleaning, the cream-colored stone glows in the spring sunshine, much as it did when it was first built a millennium ago.The cathedral sits on an island in the middle of the Seine, until modern times the principal artery for commerce. For centuries, fish from the river nourished the well-fed clerics who kept the great cathedral running.From soul to sole, this recipe for grilled lemon sole swims in a light cream sauce made tart by thin slices of melted lemon. Serve with a fluffy rice pilaf studded with pistachio nuts for a heavenly experience.
Me in front of Notre-Dame Cathedral on a spring evening
Rose Window in Notre-Dame Cathedral
The rose window at Notre-Dame Cathedral is one of Europe’s most stunning examples of Gothic stained glass. Miraculously, the rose window survived the 2019 fire. In Love Among the Recipes, Genna pairs a classic Strawberry Tart with the rose window. This recipe comes from Recipe Girl.
Sainte-Chapelle
Sainte-Chapelle on the Île de la Cité ranks as my all-time favorite religious structure. I first visited when I was 14 years old while on my epic trip around Europe with my mom, and I always pop in every time I’m in Paris. The joyful release I experience when stepping from the dark, winding staircase into the bright and airy stained-glass heaven of the upper chapel never gets old. I include Sainte-Chapelle in my post about the top cathedrals in Europe.
Sainte-Chapelle is open from 11 am to 7 pm and reservations are required. Get tickets for priority access.
Tour Saint-Jacques
Located in the 4th arrondissement, the Tour Saint-Jacques is a fabulous example of the flamboyant Gothic style. It was originally part of a church built in the 16th century which was destroyed during the French Revolution. I always enjoy catching sight of the statue-encrusted Tour Saint-Jacques while walking around the area. The tower’s connection to butchers (the original church was called Eglise Saint-Jacques-de-la-Boucherie) inspires Genna to pair it with homemade sausages.
Genna liked the contrast of the ornate tower with the lowly sausage, a dish perfect for an everyday dinner. She could include directions for making the actual sausage. A homemade sausage made from freshly ground meats in the cook’s own kitchen and blended with a rich mix of seasonings was surely one of life’s great gastronomic pleasures.
Viewing the eight giant canvases Claude Monet painted of the water lilies in his garden at Giverny never fails to exhilarate me. Two purpose-built rooms contain four canvases each. Stepping into the rooms is like stepping to the edge of a tranquil pond in a cool forest glade.
In Love Among the Recipes, the water lily paintings have a particularly dramatic effect on Marsha, a young woman whom Genna befriends from her French class. While Marsha blisses out in front of the paintings (collectively called Les Nymphéas), Genna settles onto a bench and thinks about Vichyssoise. Here’s what she writes:
Made with tender young leeks, pale yellow potatoes, heavy cream, and black pepper, a bowl of chilled Vichyssoise on a hot summer day will transport you to Monet’s world, where your soul receives the solace that only nature can supply.
Detail from a painting of water lilies by Claude Monet
Musée de Cluny
As I’ve written in my post Paris for Art Lovers: Cool Art Museums You May Not Know, the Cluny (otherwise known as Musée national du Moyen Âge) is my favorite art museum in Paris. I spend at least a few hours of every trip to Paris wandering through the dark rooms overflowing with medieval treasures. That’s my idea of paradise–that and stopping for a glass of wine at a local bistro after my visit.
Genna also loves the Cluny, particularly the stunning Lady and the Unicorn tapestries. While enjoying coffee with Parisian hottie Pierre Leblanc, Genna’s description of why she paired the famous tapestries with Duck Confit comes replete with some seriously suggestive double entendres.
This recipe for Duck Confit to match with the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries comes from Serious Eats.
The sixth tapestry: À mon seul désir Photo: Wikipedia
The Cluny Museum is open every day except Monday from 9:30 am to 6:15 pm. Ticket office closes at 5:30 pm. Evacuation of the rooms begins at 5:45 pm.
Musée Delacroix
The Musée Delacroix is housed in Delacroix’s former home and is considered a rare gem in the heart of the 6th arrondissement. The collection includes over a thousand artworks by Delacroix along with objects that belonged to him, and artworks created by artists who admired him.
In Love Among the Recipes, Genna visits the Musée Delacroix the day before she hosts a dinner party for her new friend Marsha and Marsha’s insufferable boyfriend. She pairs the Musée Delacroix with a rich and flavorful Bœuf Bourguignon:
The idea for bœuf bourguignon came to her as she was touring rooms that once housed Delacroix’s living quarters and studio. When she thought of Delacroix, she thought of clutter and heat, of fallen soldiers and distressed maidens densely painted in browns and ochers and reds. Delacroix’s large canvases were too big, too full, too heroic—and a good match for the richness of a well-cooked bœuf bourguignon.
The museum is open Wednesday to Monday, from 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., with a night opening until 9 p.m. on the first Thursday of the month.
Musée d’Orsay
I never tire of visiting the Musée d’Orsay. It teems with masterpieces created between 1848 and 1914, and includes scores of great paintings by Manet, Morisot, Monet and more. Genna matches three recipes to various aspects of the venerable museum.
To avoid the crowds, buy your tickets in advance and go early in the day. Head first for the fifth floor so you can enjoy the most popular paintings accompanied by few visitors. Take your time wandering from room to room and then stop by the café behind the large clock–the original from when the Musée d’Orsay was a train station.
Musée d’Orsay as a Whole
When Genna visits theMusée d’Orsay with her daughter, Becky, she pairs cassoulet with the museum. She explains her choice to Becky, who has arrived unexpectedly in Paris, bringing with her an attitude and a secret:
“I was watching all the people crowding into the galleries and I couldn’t help thinking of them as so many ball bearings all rolling along together, one indistinguishable from the next. Then from there I went to beans—white haricot beans that are smooth and round and meaty. And from there, I thought of richness—the paintings, which led me to think of chunks of homemade garlic sausage and duck confit legs simmered in wild garlic and . . .”
“Stop!” Becky held up her hand. “I get the picture. The cassoulet mixes all kind of colors and textures with herbs and beans, just like the museum combines paintings and people.”
“Exactly!” At this rate, they’d start wearing matching stretch pants and pink T-shirts with Mother on one and Daughter on the other.
Here’s a recipe for cassoulet, a tasty recipe from southwest France, on Jo Cooks.
Mère et enfant sur fond vert, Musée d’Orsay
Becky is fascinated by the painting Mère et enfant sur fond vert by Mary Cassatt. Later in the novel, Genna pairs the painting with clafoutis, a delicious and simple fruit pudding suitable for serving to children.
Mère et enfant sur fond vert by Mary Cassatt from Musée d’Orsay
Great Clock at the Musée d’Orsay
Genna pairs the great clock that dominates the façade of the Musée d’Orsay with a classic French apple tart–a tarte aux pommes. This recipe for Apple Tart comes from My Parisian Kitchen.
The clock in theMusée d’Orsay
Make sure to buy tickets to visit the Musée d’Orsay in advance so you can skip the line-up. The museum is open from 9:30 am to 6 pm daily except Mondays.
Musée du Louvre
The Louvre is massive, over-crowded, expensive, and magnificent. The key to visiting the Louvre with ease is to focus on one or two areas at most. There’s a great deal of art in the Louvre, and while all of it is amazing, some pieces are more amazing than others.
In Love Among the Recipes, Genna pairs recipes with three different parts of the Louvre: the Denon wing, La Grande Odalisque by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, and a charming terra cotta piece from the antiquities exhibits in the Sully wing.
Denon Wing
When you enter the pyramid and descend the escalator to the center of the Louvre, you’re faced with three wings: Sully, Richelieu, and Denon. Most visitors make a beeline for the Denon wing because that’s where some of the most famous artworks in the world are displayed, including the Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci. Unless you have a burning desire to stand in a massive crowd bristling with pickpockets so you can peer over the tops of heads to see a tiny, glass-enclosed painting on a single wall, I’d give Mona a miss. If you do want to see her, arrive early, or drop by just before the museum closes.
Instead, head for the far end of the Denon wing and work your way back. You’ll pass several remarkable pieces, including:
The Raft of the Medusa by Théodore Géricault, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Autumn by Giuseppe Arcimboldo, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Liberty Leading the People by Eugène Delacroix, Public domain, via Wikipedia Commons
Saint John the Baptist by Leonardo da Vinci, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The rich, deep-red walls of the Denon wing inspire Genna to match it with a recipe for Shrimp-Stuffed Salmon. When she serves the dish at a party, the consequences are devastating–and a pivotal moment in Love Among the Recipes. Here’s a link to a recipe for a similar dish on Jamie Oliver’s website.
La Grande Odalisque by Ingres
Your stroll through the French masterpieces in the Denon wing also takes you past La Grande Odalisque by Ingres. The enigmatic image of the nude courtesan plays a prominent role in Love Among the Recipes. In one of the final scenes of the novel, Genna matches the painting with a recipe for tagine–a warm and spicy Moroccan dish of lamb cooked with apricots and nuts. This recipe for Tagine and Couscous comes from Easy Peasy Foodie.
Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Greek, Roman, and Egyptian Antiquities
While perusing the fabulous collection of antiquities in the Sully wing, Genna comes across a small terra-cotta carving depicting a row of bakers:
Genna trailed past glass cases brimming with cooking pots and spear tips, wrought gold bracelets and bronze helmets. Her attention was arrested by a roughly hewn terra-cotta piece showing a row of figures seated at a bench, kneading what appeared to be dough. Thanks to her progress in French class, she easily deciphered the description. The object represented bakers making bread. The preparation of food was rarely represented in art, and almost never in the art of antiquity. Genna tried to imagine the artisan who had sculpted the little piece and for what reason. It was neither well-formed nor beautiful. A child with Plasticine could have done better. But at over 2,500 years old, the piece was remarkable.
Take virtual tours of the Louvre. Make sure to buy tickets to visit the Louvre in advance so you can skip the line-up. The museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm daily except Tuesdays.
Quai Branly Museum
Also know as the Musée du Quai Branly Jacques Chirac, the Musée Quai Branly deserves a place on your Paris itinerary, particularly if you enjoy art and objects created by indigenous cultures from around the world. The collection is displayed in four distinct areas representing Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas. Read more about the Musée du Quai Branly in my post Paris for Art Lovers: Cool Art Museums You May Not Know.
Genna visits the Branly with Becky, just after Becky inadvertently shares news of a seriously life-altering event. While prowling the dimly lit exhibits, Genna decides on a recipe for Chocolate Mousse. This one comes from My Parisian Kitchen.
Here’s what Genna writes:
No one who has gazed awestruck at an intricately carved exorcism mask from Sri Lanka or the complex geometric rugs woven by Berber tribeswomen could doubt that the objects on display in the Musée du Quai Branly represent human ingenuity in all its diverse glory. Intrepid visitors glide from the Congo to the Sahara, across India and around Polynesia, into the vast lands of Asia and on across the Pacific to the plains of North America and the secret jungles of Brazil. A delicately constructed chocolate mousse should explode with flavor with the same intensity so richly captured in the Branly’s dark passageways.
Display in the Africa area in the Musée Quai Branly
The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 7:00 pm (Thursdays until 10:00 pm). Get tickets in advance to avoid lines.
Situated in the trendy Marais district, the Musée Picasso is close to the apartment Marsha buys in Love Among the Recipes. When Marsha takes Genna to see the apartment, Genna is bowled over by its size and elegance, while poor Marsha is distraught.
Genna pairs a recipe for bouillabaisse, the classic Mediterranean fish stew, with the museum devoted to the work of Picasso, who was born in Málaga on Spain’s Mediterranean coast. Her decision to include bouillabaisse in her cookbook/guidebook prompts her to host a dinner party for the new friends she’s made in Paris. The events at this party lead to the climax of the novel.
The Picasso Museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 10.30 am to 6 pm and weekends from 9.30 am to 6 pm. The museum is popular, so buy tickets in advance.
When Genna visits the Musée Rodin, she is entranced by the many large and small versions of Rodin’s famous Kiss sculpture and by the sophisticated beauty of the museum and its grounds. She contemplates The Thinker, admires the sculptures in the sumptuously appointed chandeliered rooms, and comes up with crème brûlée to match with the museum. Here’s what she writes:
A silky crème brûlée topped with a sheen of caramelized sugar cracked open by one smart rap of the spoon made the perfect ending to a meal. It combined hard and soft together in one dish, like one of Rodin’s sculptures. The cold marble came alive with the heat generated by the two bodies wrapped around each other. What looked solid became malleable and alive.
The Musée Rodin is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6:30 pm. Buy tickets in advance and skip the lines.
Pompidou Centre
The fourth floor of the Pompidou Centre houses an incredible collection of early-to-mid-20th-century modern art. It’s one of my husband Gregg’s favorite art museums. As a painter, he loves admiring the work of the artists who have inspired him–from Max Ernst to Matisse to Pollock.
Pompidou Centre is the most visited museum in Paris
Buy tickets to the Pompidou Centre in advance to avoid line-ups, open every day except Tuesdays from 11 am to 8 pm.
Stravinsky Fountain, Centre Pompidou
Adjacent to the Pompidou Centre is one of the most striking and fun fountains I’ve ever seen. Created by Niki de Saint Phalle, the Stravinsky fountain was a huge favorite with my daughter, Julia, when she was a child.
Immediately before her rose the whimsical Stravinsky Fountain—a favorite of her children on their family trip to Paris. Sixteen sculptures, including a treble clef, a pair of swollen red lips, and various brightly painted amorphous shapes, rotated, swiveled, and shot water at odd angles. Genna defied anyone to stand next to Niki de Saint Phalle’s extraordinary creation on a hot summer’s day and not smile.
The quirky, colorful cheeriness of the Stravinsky Fountain inspires Genna to pair it with a scrumptious fruit flan that she describes as: Slices of yellow peaches, green kiwis, and creamy white pears, glistening blueberries, and rosy-red strawberries and raspberries and cherries would be arranged in perfect spirals on top of a custard filling spread over a crunchy sugar crust, the whole creation bathed in a glaze of equal parts sherry and Cointreau.
The Jardin des Plantes in the 5th arrondissement is a marvelous place to spend an afternoon. If you enjoy prowling through natural history museums (as I do), then allocate a day to explore the Gallery of Evolution, the Gallery of Mineralogy and Geology, the Gallery of Paleontology and Comparative Anatomy, and the Gallery of Botany.
Le Jardin des Plantes is open from 7:30 am to 6:30 pm, with most of the galleries opening at 10 am.
Luxembourg Gardens
The Luxembourg Gardens holds a special place in the hearts of my family. We spent many happy hours at the awesome playground when our daughter was young, and in recent years have always enjoyed strolling through its shaded walkways and lounging by the round pool.
Genna also has very positive associations with the Luxembourg Gardens and goes there with her daughter, Becky. The variety of facilities within the gardens inspire Genna to create a recipe for pot-au-feu.
Fountain at the Luxembourg Gardens
Monet’s Garden at Giverny
An hour outside Paris is Giverny and the house that artist Claude Monet lived in for several decades. The garden he created–depicted in many of his paintings–attracts millions of visitors every year.
In Love Among the Recipes, Genna visits Giverny with Bill Turner. The first glimmer of romance is sparked amid the leafy green walkways and dreamy views of water-lily-studded ponds. While gazing over one of these ponds, Genna decides on a light and fluffy asparagus soufflé. This recipe comes from Simply Recipes.
One of the charming green bridges in Monet’s garden at Giverny
Parc Buttes Chaumont
This wonderful neighborhood park in the 19th arrondissement is the fifth largest park in Paris and almost completely bypassed by tourists. Wander several kilometers of pathways and admire the evocative Temple de la Sibylle perched on a cliff overlooking the lower garden.
In Love Among the Recipes, Genna pairs the park–a favorite with families–with a family-friendly recipe for Chicken & 40 Cloves of Garlic that she serves to an appreciative Monsieur Leblanc, her landlord. This version comes from Jo Cooks.
Temple de la Sibylle in Parc Buttes Chaumont
Parc de la Villette
This massive park, also in the 19th arrondissement, is full of interesting things to see and do. It’s home to one of the largest concentrations of cultural venues in Paris, including the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, Europe’s largest science museum; three major concert venues, including the Philharmonie de Paris; and La Géode, an Omnimax theater. Also in the park are ten themed gardens, including the Jardin du Dragon, along with 26 follies–large, bright red metal sculptures.
In Love Among the Recipes, Genna visits Parc de la Villette with Pierre Leblanc and later tells him she’s pairing the park with a Pork Terrine with Roasted Red Peppers and Hazelnuts. Here’s an excerpt from her conversation with Pierre:
“A layered terrine of pork pâté with roasted red peppers and a layer or two of nuts all pressed into a perfect rectangle. When you cut the terrine into thick slices, all the layers are exposed.”
“Like the structures of the park in nature.”
“Exactly!” Genna put down her fork and grinned at Pierre. “You are an amazing inspiration, Pierre. That’s the second good connection I’ve made, thanks to you.”
This delightful park in the 8th arrondissement contains a number of interesting follies, including a miniature ancient Egyptian pyramid, a Roman colonnade, antique statues, a pond full of water lilies, a Dutch windmill, a minaret, and an enchanted grotto. Far off the tourist path, the Parc Monceau is the perfect place for an after-lunch stroll.
The Paris Métro is efficient, fast, and cheap. You can’t beat it as the quickest way to cross the city when you don’t want to take a taxi driven by a French driver with a death wish. If you have more time to get where you’re going, take busses so that you can watch the passing parade of Parisian sights and people. But if you’re in a hurry, descend to the Métro, check your route on the illuminated maps, and enjoy the ride.
While waiting in the Métro, Genna is struck by its relationship to the humble pissaladière, a pizza-like flatbread criss-crossed with anchovies and studded with olives. This recipe comes from Serious Eats.
Île de la Cité
Before fire devastated Notre-Dame Cathedral in 2019, one of my favorite things to do on a warm evening was to stroll around the magical Île de la Cité. Repairs to the cathedral are progressing, but we likely won’t see the cathedral in all its floodlit glory for quite some time.
In Love Among the Recipes, Genna pairs Île de la Cité with Rainbow Trout as a result of a tip from the irascible but kind-hearted and seriously committed foodie, Monsieur Leblanc. The recipe is from Dinner with Julie.
Near the Île de la Cité on a chilly spring day
L’Opéra Bastille
I was fortunate to see a performance of Wagner’s Götterdämmerung at L’Opéra Bastille a few years ago. A remarkable structure, the opera house in the Place de la Bastille in the 12th arrondissement was inaugurated in 1989 and is the home of the Paris National Opera.
In Love Among the Recipes, Genna is inspired by the wrapped and layered exterior of the opera house to create a recipe for veal cutlets in parchment (Escalopes de veau en papillote).
L’Opéra Bastille
Les Halles
Back in the day (and as recently as 1971), Les Halles was Paris’s central fresh-food market. Now, the market is part of a massive underground shopping mall. Les Halles is usually an area I traverse through long tunnels when changing lines at the Châtelet–Les Halles Métro stop. It’s one of the largest underground stations in the world that connects three of five RER lines and five of the sixteen Métro lines.
Thanks once again to the refined palate of Monsieur Leblanc, Genna pairs Les Halles with a recipe for Rabbit in Mustard Sauce.
Plaza above Les Halles
Montmartre
Montmartre overlooks Paris atop a large hill in the 18th arrondisement. It’s dominated by the ice-cream-cone domes of the Basilica of the Sacré-Cœur and includes plenty of charming cafés and an artsy atmosphere. However, each time I’ve visited, the crowds have been intense and so I usually haven’t stayed long. On the other hand, the views across the Paris skyline from Sacré-Cœur are magnificent, and I do remember our daughter at the age of nine enjoying the carousel at the base of the basilica.
Basilica of the Sacré-Cœur with the carousel at its base
Place du Tertre in Montmartre
The Place du Tertre teems with sidewalk cafés, street artists, locals, and tourists. At the beginning of the 20th century, the area was home to many famous painters, including Picasso and Modigliani. The home and studio of Renoir and Suzanne Valadon are also nearby.
The lively and cheerful area is a perfect match for macarons–the crispy, chewy, gloriously colorful confections that take pride of place in every French patisserie. This recipe comes from Serious Eats.
Place du Tertre in Montmartre
Place de la Concorde
The busy Place de la Concorde symbolizes monumental Paris. Stand in the middle of it and you can see many of the most famous sites in Paris, from the giant Ferris wheel to the Egyptian obelisk to the Eiffel Tower in the distance. Genna chooses the elegant French cookies called madeleines to pair with the Place de la Concorde.
Place de la Concorde
Tuileries Gardens
After trudging through the Louvre in search of great art, nothing beats taking some “me” time in one of the metal chairs arranged around fountains in the Tuileries Gardens. The flower beds overflow with color, the crowds swish past, and all is right with the world.
In Love Among the Recipes, Genna and Bill relax in the Tuileries before heading across the river to the Right Bank and Bill’s posh hotel on the Rue Saint-Honoré. Before they leave the gardens, Genna matches the Tuileries Gardens with Salade Niçoise, a hearty salad brimming with fresh anchovies, hard-boiled eggs, green beans, tuna, tomatoes, and potatoes. As Genna says, “every bite is a new combination of salty and crunchy.” This recipe comes from Serious Eats.
Gregg relaxing in one of the metal chairs in the Tuileries Gardens
Versailles
Versailles, the sumptuous palace of French kings and queens, is worth the day trip from Paris, but arrive early to avoid the crowds! Tour the palace first and then spend the rest of your time wandering around the grounds. You can easily walk all day and not come close to exploring all 2,000-plus acres of what is considered the world’s largest royal domain.
I find the interior of Versailles too over the top and opulent for my taste, but it is worth seeing. I remember experiencing terrible claustrophobia trapped in a heaving mass of tourists in the famous Hall of Mirrors, which is why I suggest getting to the palace as soon as it opens. Outside the palace, the grounds and fountains are truly spectacular. Schedule your visit on a day when the fountains are playing. Check the Versailles website for times.
Genna visits Versailles with Pierre Leblanc, and together they come up with Caesar Salad as the perfect dish to pair with the royal residence. This recipe comes from Serious Eats.
Hall of Mirrors in Versailles
Book your tickets well in advance and skip the line for the Palace of Versailles. The Palace is open every day except Monday from 9 am.
Have you read Love Among the Recipes? Share your thoughts in the Comments section below.
Cathedrals are pretty thick on the ground in Europe compared to where I come from. In fact, massive stone edifices with slender columns soaring heavenward and sparkling stained glass are pretty must non-existent.
We have our fair share of churches but nothing like the ancient piles that rise from the piazzas and town squares of every major city in Europe—and plenty of not-so-major ones.
Map of the Best Cathedrals in Europe
The map below shows the locations of the Best Cathedrals in Europe mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.
I visit cathedrals to revel in the history and the art and to imagine the incredible skill and dedication required to build them so long ago. When I study just how complex these ancient structures are, I marvel anew at the ingenuity of humanity.
For this post, I’ve chosen my 8 favorite cathedrals in Europe. To be clear, not all of them are actually cathedrals, which is a specific ecclesiastical term. I’ve thrown in a basilica, a couple of abbeys, and one plain old chapel (which is anything but plain!).
I’ve left out several of the biggies, like St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and Cologne Cathedral in Germany, that you might expect to see on a list of best cathedrals in Europe. But my aim here is to share the places that over the years have touched me the most and that I revisit every chance I get.
My choices are located in England, France, Spain, and Italy.
Durham Cathedral in Durham, England
I’ll start with my favorite cathedral in the world–the queen of all cathedrals, in my opinion. Durham Cathedral (#1) is a massive Norman pile situated on top of a bluff overlooking the River Wear.
Durham Cathedral and River Wear in Durham, United Kingdom
Unlike most cathedrals in northern Europe built in the Gothic style, Durham Cathedral dates from Norman times. Instead of slender columns and vaulted ceilings, Durham Cathedral has massive round columns and solid round arches and is one of the world’s foremost examples of Norman architecture.
Why I Love Durham Cathedral
I adore Durham Cathedral!
In fact, I love it so much that back in the mists of my past, I chose to go to Durham University for a year simply because I wanted to live in the shadow of its cathedral. I have many fond memories of visiting the cathedral, sitting quietly in the nave, and sometimes hearing the organ soar.
Interior of Durham Cathedral
Good times!
I’m not alone in considering Durham Cathedral a must-see. Bill Bryson, one of my favorite travel writers, also loves Durham Cathedral. For a time, he was even a Chancellor of Durham University.
“Why, it’s wonderful – a perfect little city – and I kept thinking: ‘Why did no-one tell me about this?’ I knew, of course, that it had a fine Norman cathedral but I had no idea that it was so splendid. I couldn’t believe that not once in twenty years had anyone said to me, ‘You’ve never been to Durham? Good God, man, you must go at once! Please – take my car’.”
Durham Cathedral Highlights
The Anglo-Saxon cathedral on the site dates from 995. However, construction of Durham Cathedral as we know it today began in 1093, making it one of England’s oldest cathedrals. Highlights of the cathedral include:
Norman Pillars
These massive carved pillars (6.6 meters round and 6.6 meters high) are one of my favorite things about Durham Cathedral. They hold up the gorgeous round arches that mark Durham Cathedral as a Norman cathedral rather than a Gothic cathedral like most of the other cathedrals in England, including York Minster and Westminster Abbey.
Shrine of St. Cuthbert
The best loved saint in the north of England is St. Cuthbert. He lived as a monk, a bishop, and finally a hermit on Lindisfarne and was proclaimed a saint in 698. His shrine is located within the cathedral.
Tomb of the Venerable Bede
The Venerable Bede was a monk who lived in the 7th and 8th centuries and is regarded as the greatest Anglo-Saxon scholar. He was declared “venerable” in 836 and canonized in 1899. His bones were brought to Durham in 1022 and eventually entombed in the Galilee Chapel in Durham Cathedral.
Open Treasure Exhibition
Various exhibitions showcasing medieval art and artifacts are featured. Check the website for up-to-date information.
Stained Glass
Enjoy the number and variety of stained-glass windows in Durham Cathedral–from medieval to modern, the most recent installed in 2010.
You’ll find plenty of things to enjoy at Durham Cathedral. After touring it, stroll down to the River Wear so you can admire the iconic view of the cathedral. When I was a student at Durham University, I spent many hours walking alongside the river and admiring views of the cathedral.
For more information about opening times, check the Durham Cathedral website.
Practical Information for Visiting Durham
Durham is located between York and Newcastle in the northeast of England. You can see it from the train. In fact, my first glimpse of Durham Cathedral was from the train when we passed it on my epic BritRail journey around Britain when I was eighteen. I knew then that I had to return!
I recommend staying a day or two in Durham to enjoy the cathedral and the lovely town of Durham and to explore the surrounding countryside. Click below for accommodation options in Durham.
The spire of Salisbury Cathedral (#2) rising above the bucolic Wiltshire countryside is the quintessential English view. Stay a night to also enjoy the charming town of Salisbury. It makes a great home base for exploring the area that includes Stonehenge just 9 miles to the north.
Salisbury Cathedral in the town of Salisbury in Wiltshire, England
Salisbury Cathedral Highlights
The ornate 13th-century cathedral built in the Gothic style is not as old as Durham Cathedral and includes a graceful 123-meter spire and a 14th- century clock that still works. Apart from the beauty of the cathedral itself, the big draw for history buffs is the display of an original copy of the Magna Carta from 1215.
After touring the cathedral, linger in the 80-acre Cathedral Close–the largest in Britain. Notable highlights include:.
Arundells
The home of former Prime Minister Sir Edward Heath houses collections of his sailing and musical memorabilia in addition to oriental and European ceramics, paintings, political cartoons, and more.
Mompresson House
This National Trust property is an 18th-century townhouse in the heart of Cathedral Close. Check out the notable plaster work, an elegant carved oak staircase, period furniture, and even a collection of 18th-century drinking glasses.
Front facade of the historic Mompesson House in Salisbury, Wiltshire
The Salisbury Museum
This fine museum houses archeological collections from the region, including the Stonehenge Gallery and displays of pre-historic, Roman, Saxon, and medieval artifacts.
Practical Information for Visiting Salisbury
Salisbury is located in Wiltshire about 100 kilometers southwest of London. The train journey from Waterloo Station takes about 90 minutes.
I recommend staying at least one night in Salisbury so you can enjoy the town and explore nearby Stonehenge and Old Sarum to the north. The bus to Stonehenge takes 30 minutes from Salisbury, or you can take a tour from London. Here are options.
Click below for accommodation options in Salisbury. We stayed in a bed-and-breakfast within walking distance of the Cathedral–a good choice if you’re not traveling by car.
It’s crowded, you must buy the audio tour, and you can only go in one direction when you tour the abbey, but OMG, it’s worth it. I never tire of visiting Westminster Abbey (#3). The history of this place coupled with the always fascinating Poet’s Corner make it a must-see every time I visit London, which is as often as I can manage!
Westminster Abbey, London
The last time I visited Westminster Abbey, I was extremely fortunate to be taken into a chapel not accessible to the public to view the tombs of John Philip Kemble and Sarah Siddons. They were the two greatest actors of the early 19th century who also make an appearance in my 3rd novel, The Muse of Fire.
I asked an attendant where the tombs were when I couldn’t find them in Poet’s Corner. She directed me to one of the abbey’s clerics who took me to the side chapel where women were arranging flowers. I could look at the 2 tombs, both decorated with large marble sculptures of the famous actors. However, I wasn’t allowed to take pictures. Still, it was a thrill to pay my respects to 2 people with whom I’d spent a lot of time while writing The Muse of Fire.
One very good thing about having to tour Westminster Abbey with the audio guide clamped to your ear is that the noise level is very low. People are too busy listening to the audioguide to talk. As a result, even with the abbey heaving with people, you still feel something of the spiritual atmosphere of a church that has played an outsized role in British history since 1066.
Before you visit, take a virtual tour to get your bearings.
Westminster Abbey Highlights
The audio tour is extremely thorough so you’ll get a lot of information about what you’re seeing as you shuffle around the abbey.
Coronation Chair
View where the kings and queens of England have been crowned for over 700 years. Under the chair is the Stone of Scone brought by Kind Edward I from Scotland to Westminster Abbey in 1295. The stone was stolen on Christmas Day in 1950. For an entertaining movie about the theft, see The Stone of Destiny.
Pyx Chamber
One of the oldest surviving parts of Westminster Abbey, the Pyx Chamber is a low vaulted room off the East Cloister that was built about 1070. You really get a feel for the incredible antiquity of the abbey in this chamber.
Royal Tombs
Westminster Abbey contains the mortal remains of 30 kings and queens, starting with King Edward the Confessor. As you tour the abbey, you’ll pass the tombs of such major figures as Edward I, Richard II, Henry VII, Queen Elizabeth I, and Charles II. Walking around the tombs is like taking a trip through English history.
Cloisters
I always enjoy walking around cloisters at cathedrals. The ones at Westminster Abbey enclose a green space with a central fountain commemorating Capability Brown, the famous landscape gardener and architect from the 18th century.
Cloisters at Westminster Abbey, London
Poet’s Corner
This area is a must-visit for artsy travelers. I could spend all day here looking for the tombs of over 100 of England’s greatest writers and poets, including Jane Austen, Charles Dickens, Thomas Hardy, Geoffrey Chaucer, C. S. Lewis, and composers such as George Frederick Handel.
Other Tombs and Memorials
Over 3,300 tombs and memorials are scattered throughout Westminster Abbey. If you’re looking for a particular person and can’t find them on the regular tour (and you know a memorial to them exists in the abbey), ask an attendant. If the tomb is accessible, you may be allowed to view it even if it is not in an area open to the public.
Check out the Westminster Abbey website to buy tickets.
Practical Information for Visiting London
London is enormous, so allocate at least 5 days to visit it and preferably a week. You won’t run out of things to see and do in London.
Sunset over Big Ben, the Parliament buildings and the Thames River in London
Here are London-based tours to consider, particularly if you are short on time.
When I visit London, I choose the most central accommodation I can find. Yes, you can find cheaper (and drearier) accommodation farther from the center, but you’ll spend more time and money commuting.
The last time I was in London, I stayed at the Cavendish Hotel near Green Park and within walking distance of the theaters in London’s West End. The location was perfect. I very rarely needed to take a tube, mostly relying on either busses or walking.
Click below for accommodation options in central London.
If you have not yet visited Sainte-Chapelle (#4) in Paris, put it at the top of your list. It’s truly one of the city’s marvels–which is saying something in Paris. Every time I visit the City of Light, I make make time to pop into Sainte- Chapelle.
What’s So Special About Sainte-Chapelle?
Two words: stained glass. The walls enclosing the top floor of the 2-storey chapel are virtually all glass. Very slender columns separate the soaring stained glass windows.
Stained glass windows of Sainte-Chapelle in Paris
Pictures can’t capture the incredible light and beauty of Sainte-Chapelle. Arranged across 15 windows, each 15 metres high, the stained-glass panes depict 1,113 scenes from the Old and New Testaments.
The chapel was built over a period of just 7 years–an incredibly fast pace for the time and why the chapel’s architecture is so harmonious.
For information about opening times, check the Sainte-Chapelle website.
Attend a Concert at Sainte-Chapelle
One of the best ways to enjoy Sainte-Chapelle is to attend a concert there. We’ve done so several times and have always been transported. It’s a wonderful artsy experience to listen to Bach, Vivaldi, and other 18th- century masters while bathed in the colored light filtering through the stained glass.
Lean your head back and look up at the star-spangled ceiling.
Ceiling of Sainte-Chapelle in Paris
Purchase tickets in advance for concerts at Sainte-Chapelle. The ClassicTic website is a reliable place to find tickets.
Practical Information for Visiting Sainte- Chapelle
Sainte-Chapelle is located on the Île de la Cité in the heart of Paris. Since the chapel is located within the precincts of the Palais de Justice, you need to go through a security screening before you can enter Sainte-Chapelle. Visit early in the day or wait until the evening and combine your visit with a concert.
While on the Île de la Cité, you’ll pass by Notre Dame Cathedral–a heartbreaking site as a result of the fire that devastated it in 2019. Repairs are underway, so hopefully one day you’ll be able to tour it again.
Here’s the Île de la Cité showing Notre Dame Cathedral before the fire. The spire in the center of the picture is Sainte-Chapelle.
Île de la Cité and the Pont des Arts at sunrise
Paris deserves at least 4 days to tour and preferably a week. I’ve stayed a month at a time and have never run out of things to see and do.
Here are Paris-based tours to consider, particularly if you are short on time.
Staying in Paris
When I visit Paris, I choose the most central accommodation I can find. Cheaper accommodation is available on the Périphérique, but the neighborhoods can be souless, and you’ll spend more time commuting to central Paris.
See my suggestions about where to stay in Paris or click below for other accommodation options in central Paris.
Chartres makes a great day trip from Paris or a stop on the way to tour the Loire Valley.
Considered one of the most beautiful in France, Chartres Cathedral (#5) is also one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture. The cathedral dominates the delightful small town of Chartres.
The south view of Cathedral of Our Lady of Chartres, France
Chartres Cathedral has it all: graceful spires, pointed arches, flying buttresses, and magnificent 12th- and 13th-century stained-glass windows. The intensity of your visit is heightened by the fact that no direct light enters the building. All light is filtered through the stained glass, so your enjoyment of the remarkable interior of the cathedral has an other-worldly feel.
Stained-glass windows in Chartres Cathedral, France
At the center of the cathedral is a maze of 290 meters that the faithful used to follow on their knees. Ouch.
Read more about the cathedral on the Chartres Cathedral website, including information about opening times and history.
Practical Information for Visiting Chartres
Chartres is located about an hour’s drive or train ride southwest of Paris. If you decide to make Chartres an overnight stop on the way farther west to visit the châteaux in the Loire Valley, here are accommodation options:
I confess that I did not visit the Sagrada Familia (#6) until my 3rd and most recent trip to Barcelona. The first time I was 21 and intimidated by seeing phalanxes of helmeted soldiers close in around me in the Plaza Catalunya. This was during the Franco years in the 1970s. On my second visit, I’d failed to get tickets ahead of time. The line of people who did not have the foresight to book ahead stretched around the building, and so I passed.
Finally, 3rd time lucky! I purchased my ticket to the Sagrada Familia online and well in advance of my visit and happily breezed past the long line-ups of very hot tourists on a day when the temperature hovered around a very humid 35 degrees.
Sagrada Familia Cathedral, Barcelona
Even with a ticket, make sure you arrive at least 30 minutes prior to your entry time. You’ll still queue but not for as long as will the poor souls who didn’t plan ahead. When I visited at 3 pm, people were being told that the next entrance time was at 6.
The Sagrada Familia was started in the 1880s and is not yet finished. Cranes arch across the towers, and you’ll hear hammers pounding. After visiting the interior, take a leisurely walk around the building to admire the intricate sculptures encrusting the walls like artsy barnacles.
What’s Special About the Sagrada Familia?
At your scheduled time, if you’re not taking a tour, join the hordes trudging around the perimeter of the basilica to the entrance for ticket holders, and pick up an audio guide (included in the ticket price and very informative) as you enter.
Then prepare to be blown away!
The interior of the Sagrada Familia is like nowhere else on earth. Abstract patterns in blues, golds, greens, and reds bounce the Barcelona sun across faces, walls, t-shirts, and floors.
High above, star-shaped openings punch the roof to let the sun stream in like bolts of pure light.
Take your time exploring the Sagrada Familia. I suggest grabbing a pew and just sitting, listening to the audio guide and letting the beauty of the place soak in.
Regardless of your religious convictions, you can’t help but appreciate the magnificence of the architecture as a fitting celebration of spirit. You may never want to leave.
To book tickets, go directly to the Sagrada Familia website.
Practical Information for Visiting Barcelona
For more information about what to do and see in Barcelona, check out my post on Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Trendy Barcelona. In addition to my suggestions, here are tours to consider.
I recommend staying at least 2 days and 3 nights in Barcelona. Check out my suggestions for where to stay in Barcelona.
Basilica of San Vitale in Ravenna, Italy
I singled out the Basilica of San Vitale (#7) in Ravenna for this post, but when you go to Ravenna, you definitely want to visit all the churches and mausoleums containing the Byzantine mosaics dating from the 5th and 6th centuries.
Basilica di San Vitale, Ravenna, Italy
Start at the Basilica of San Vitale, which contains the most famous mosaics, including those showing the Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora.
Byzantine mosaic representing the Empress Theodora and her court in the Basilica San Vitale, Ravenna, Italy
When you arrive at the Basilica San Vitale, buy your combination ticket for all 6 UNESCO World Heritage sites in central Ravenna.
The combination ticket is also available at a few other locations, including the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, the Neonian Baptistry, and the Archbishop’s Chapel. Basically, buy your ticket at the first site you visit.
The sites are almost all within walking distance of each other and you’ll need a full day to see them all, with a long break to enjoy lunch in the lovely Piazza del Popolo in the center of Ravenna.
What’s Special about Basilica San Vitale
I’ve known about the Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna, particularly the ones in San Vitale, ever since I studied art history at university.
Seeing pictures of the mosaics in books was impressive enough, but the real mosaics take your breath away. You’ll also end up with a sore neck within a few minutes of entering San Vitale. Be warned and pace yourself. When you visit San Vitale, and indeed all the Byzantine sites in Ravenna, you spend a lot of time looking up.
But the pain is worth it. Built in 525, the Basilica San Vitale is by far the oldest of the cathedrals presented in this post and one of the oldest in Christendom. And yet its mosaics look like they were made yesterday. It’s almost impossible to believe they are getting on for 1,500 years old.
What also struck me was the modernity of many of the decorative elements surrounding the figurative mosaics. You’ll also see many details from the natural world, such as birds, flowers, and small animals.
Exquisite detail of the Byzantine mosaic in the mausoleum of Galla Placidia in Ravenna, Italy
Practical Information for Visiting Ravenna
Ravenna is located about 145 kilometers (a 2-hour drive) south of Venice and 85 kilometers due east of Bologna on the Adriatic Sea. The city makes a great stop either on your way to or from Venice.
I recommend staying at least a night in Ravenna so you have plenty of time to tour both the Basilica San Vitale and the other World Heritage sites containing Byzantine mosaics. Check out my suggestions for where to stay in Ravenna.
Siena Cathedral in Siena, Italy
Siena Cathedral (Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) (#8) has so much to offer that you’ll need the better part of a day to explore and appreciate it and the adjacent museum.
Chock full of fabulous art, much of it from the 14th century (my favorite century for art!), Siena Cathedral is my top pick for best medieval cathedral in Italy.
Overlooking Siena Cathedral after a bit of a stiff climb
To start with, the exterior of the cathedral is stunning, with its black and white striped tower and super ornate facade. Dating from the 12th century, the cathedral is a masterpiece of Romanesque and Gothic architecture.
Siena Cathedral
Siena Cathedral Highlights
The interior of the cathedral is just as stunning (maybe even more so) than its exterior. Here are the highlights of Siena Cathedral and the adjoining museum.
Cathedral Floor
You’ll spend a lot of time looking down when you’re inside Siena Cathedral. In fact, its floor is the most interesting floor I’ve ever seen in a cathedral. Giorgio Vasari, who wrote the famous round-up of artists called Lives of the Most Excellent Painters, Sculptors, and Architects in the 16th century, considered the floor in Siena Cathedral the “most beautiful…, largest and most magnificent floor ever made.”
He got that right. The floor consists of 56 inlay panels created between the 14th and 19th centuries. All of the artists who worked on the floor were Sienese, except for Pinturicchio who was from Umbria. The panels represent the sibyls, scenes from the Old Testament, allegories, and virtues, and remarkably, most are still in their original state.
A panel in Siena Cathedral’s floor showing the She-Wolf of Siena dating from 1373
Piccolomini Library
I confess that I had not heard of the Piccolomini Library, which is a sad admission for a lover of medieval and Renaisannce art. But there you go, and I’ve now discovered the error of my ways.
The library is to the left of the nave when you enter the cathedral. You might need to line up to get in.
Between 1503 and 1508, Pinturicchio covered the walls and ceiling of the library with scenes celebrating the life and work of Pope Pius II. You’ll be amazed by the atmospheric landscapes, the splendid costumes of the figures, and the rich, enamelled palette. The colors look like they were applied yesterday. The frescoes truly are a wonder.
Gate of Heaven
Recently, the cathedral began to allow people to tour a series of rooms at the top of the cathedral. You can walk above the nave to admire views both inside and outside the cathedral. It looks pretty cool (I haven’t done it yet!).
Museo dell’Opera
Not all museums attached to cathedrals are worth visiting, but the Museo dell’Opera is. The museum houses numerous masterpieces. My favorite (and the biggest draw) is the Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna (usually referred to as Duccio).
Duccio painted Mary and Jesus (Maestà means a madonna and child) in the early 14th century for the cathedral’s altarpiece. He is considered one of the greatest Italian painters of the late medieval period and is credited with created the paintings styles of the Sienese school.
The Duccio altarpiece is housed is quite a large room, suitably darkened and climate controlled and equipped with chairs so you can sit and contemplate this miraculous work for as long as you want.
Duccio’s Maestà altarpiece in the Museo dell’Opera at Siena Cathedral Source: Creative Commons
Duccio’s altarpiece is close to my heart because I feature it in my novel The Towers of Tuscanyabout a fictional woman painter in 14th century Italy who spent some time in Siena.
The museum also includes sculptures by Donatello, Pisano, and Jacopo della Quercia, a treasury that exhibits fabulous works by goldsmiths and jewelers, and a very rare collection of illuminated manuscripts.
I was in 7th heaven in this museum.
Practical Information for Visiting Siena
Siena is located about an hour south of Florence and 2 hours north of Rome in beautiful Tuscany. To read more about Tuscany (one of my all-time favorite places to visit in Italy), see my post on Tuscany and Umbria.
Here are other tour options in Siena and the surrounding countryside.
I recommend staying at least 2 nights in Siena to give you ample time to explore this wonderful city and to just relax in the Campo. Check out my suggestions for where to stay in Siena.
Summary
You can’t go far in Europe without coming across cathedrals and churches with historical significance. Every village has a stone church, its steeple rising above the surrounding countryside, the style changing from region to region.
If you enjoy learning about the building of the great Gothic cathedrals in Europe, then pick up copies of Ken Follett’s Kingsbridge Series. The three extraordinary novels chart the course of the fictional Kingsbridge Cathedral through four centuries. A prequel to The Pillars of the Earth is coming in September, 2020.
Do you have a favorite European cathedral or church you’d like to share with other Artsy Travelers?
Prehistory sites abound in Europe and I go out of my way to visit them–the older the better.
In Europe, you’ll find breathtaking cave paintings, soaring menhirs, mysterious dolmens, logic-defying stone alignments, and compelling archeological museums.
I get a kick out of visiting prehistoric sites built by fellow humans thousands of years before recorded history. Peering at shapes drawn on cave walls by artists who lived and loved so long ago gives me a peculiar thrill. I feel connected to the creative spirit that makes us human.
Prehistory Sites Featured in this Post
For this post, I’ve chosen seven of my favorite prehistoric sites, but these are by no means the only ones. You’ll find hundreds more scattered around the British Isles and western Europe, particularly the western edges of Brittany and the Dordogne in France, southern Spain, and the Alentejo region of Portugal.
Location of Prehistory Sites
I’ve presented the prehistoric sites from north to south and west to east. Start at Newgrange in Ireland, head south to Portugal and Spain, go north again through the Dordogne in France, and end in Brittany.
I barely scratch the surface, but that’s great news if you can’t get enough of wandering around these ancient sites. Here’s a map of Europe showing the seven prehistory sites featured in this post. The number assigned to each site corresponds with the number on the map below.
A visit to Newgrange (#1 on the map) in the Boyne Valley in Ireland is a must for prehistory lovers. Located about 40 minutes north of Dublin near the town of Drogheda, Newgrange is a revelation. At over 5,200 years old, it predates Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids.
Classified as a passage tomb, Newgrange is considered a place of “astrological, spiritual, religious, and ceremonial importance.”
I was blown away. Even crowded with tourists, the place exuded an energetic and spiritual pull.
Newgrange in Ireland, with a double rainbow
Who were the people who conceived and built the tomb all those millennia ago? As a result of its precise construction, a beam of light at dawn at the winter solstice penetrates the roof-box above the passage entrance and travels up the 19-meter passage to dramatically illuminate the central chamber.
Each year, people enter a lottery to witness the sunrise one morning from December 18 to December 23rd. Wouldn’t it be amazing to be chosen?
Visiting the Newgrange Prehistory Site
When you visit Newgrange, go first to the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre to pick up your tickets (book in advance). The excellent exhibits explore the seasonal nature of Stone Age society, the monument building process, and the significance of the ceremonies associated with the monuments.
From the Visitor Centre, a shuttle bus transports you to the Newgrange and Knowth monuments. You can’t enter Knowth, but at Newgrange you’re led into the tomb on a tour. When I visited, we filed into the central chamber through the narrow passageway. The lights were doused for several seconds. In the total darkness of the enclosed space, I easily imagined myself shivering in the pre-dawn chill 5000 years ago as I waited for the sun to return at the winter solstice.
Built over five thousand years ago, Newgrange is a megalithic passage tomb. View over the entrance stone with the famous ‘Triple Spiral’ and ‘Diamonds’.
Then, light meant to represent the rising sun shone through the roof-box. For a few glorious minutes, I witnessed the magic of the light slowly extending from the floor at the base of the roof-box along the passageway to the rear of the chamber.
More Information about Newgrange
Check the Newgrange website for information about pre-purchasing tickets for the full tour that includes the Newgrange chamber. Walk-in tickets are limited, so them online as soon as you know your travel plans.
Here’s a tour that includes Newgrange and Hill of Tara, the seat of power of the Irish High Kings.
#2: Avebury, England
I first visited Avebury (#2) when I was eighteen and attending Reading University in Berkshire, about an hour’s drive east toward London.
Located in Wiltshire in southwest England, Avebury consists of a massive bank and ditch enclosing an area of 28.5 acres. Within its boundaries is the largest stone circle in Britain. At one time consisting of 100 stones, the large circle in turn encloses two smaller stone circles.
Standing stones at Avebury
The stones encircle an area that includes part of Avebury village. The site was built and altered over several centuries from 2850 BC and 2200 BC.
I like visiting Avebury because, unlike at Stonehenge, you can wander freely around the stones. While the stones themselves are not as large and impressive as those of Stonehenge, Avebury’s location in the bucolic English countryside provides much more scope for the imagination.
Visiting Avebury
Managed by the National Trust, Avebury is open during daylight hours. While you’re there, pay a visit to Avebury Manor which dates from the 12th century and in the 1930s was the home of Alexander Keiller, an archeologist who did extensive work on the Avebury Stone Circle. The Alexander Keiller Museum includes prehistoric finds from Avebury and other monuments in the area.
Here are some tours to Stonehenge that also take you through the beautiful Wiltshire countryside.
Other Prehistoric Sites in Southern England
This area of southern England includes many wonderful prehistoric sites, including Stonehenge and Silbury Hill. One of my other favorite places is White Horse Hill near Uffington in Oxfordshire. The white horse is one of several figures cut by Bronze Age people into the chalk downs of the area.
White Horse of Uffington – Source: Wikipedia
#3: Almendres Cromlech near Évora, Portugal
The Alentejo region of Portugal, notably around Évora, is a treasure trove of megalithic sites. In fact, the area is considered the most important area for megaliths on the Iberian Peninsula.
Most of the megaliths are standing stones that date from the Early Neolithic period (5500-4500 BC). Megaliths abound in the fields around Évora: more than 10 megalithic enclosures, 100 isolated menhirs, 800 dolmens and 450 megalithic settlements. Wow!
Head west from Évora to the Almendres Cromlech (Cromeleque dos Almendres), a megalithic complex reputed to be one of the world’s oldest—over 2,000 years older than Stonehenge.
Almendres Cromlech near Évora
More than 100 standing stones bristle down a hillside. Wander among them at will, take pictures, and commune with the ancestral forces. Whenever we’ve visited, the place has been virtually deserted.
Visiting Almendres Cromlech
Follow the road signs to the site from the small village of Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe. Not far from the Almendres megaliths is the Almendres Menhir which was erected to mark the sunrise in the summer solstice
Getting up close and personal with the Almendres Menhir
Spend an afternoon driving around the area to see evidence of a civilization that flourished millenia ago.
The Almendres megalithic enclosure is the largest megalithic monument in the Iberian Peninsula and one of the oldest in the world.
#4: Cueva de la Pileta near Ronda, Spain
The Cueva de la Pileta is the only cave art site we’ve visited in Spain. We’re big cave art fans and one day plan to visit the ‘queen’ of the cave art sites–the Cave of Altamira in northern Spain near the charming town of Santillana del Mar. Featured there are charcoal drawings and polychrome paintings of animals and human hands.
The paintings in the Cueva de la Pileta are not nearly as extensive as those in Altamira or Lascaux (see below), but still worth a visit if you’re traveling near Ronda and you have a car. We learned about the caves from the owner of the beautiful little hotel we stayed at in the countryside near Ronda (see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks).
Gregg waiting at the entrance to the cave
The hour-long tour in the dimly lit cave took us past paintings and drawings that are at least 30,000 years old. None of the paintings is as colorful and fully formed as you’ll see in Lascaux in France, but their incredible antiquity is awesome.
The tour group is small, the footing rough, and the experience very authentic. Our guide conducted the tour in Spanish and English.
Visiting Cueva de La Pileta
You must get reservations before you visit the cave. Check the website for more information. To make reservations, call 666 74 17 75. After parking along the road, you walk up a steep, rough pathway to the cave entrance. Bring warm clothes to wear inside the cave even if the weather is hot outside. After an hour inside the cave, you’ll be chilly.
The charming town of Ronda in fabulous Andalusia is not far from the caves. Stop here for a meal and to enjoy the sunset over the surrounding countryside.
Town of Ronda at sunset
These tours take you to Ronda and around the gorgeous White Towns of Andalusia.
#5: Lascaux, Dordogne, France
Probably the most famous prehistoric site in Europe, if not the world, is the Cave of Lascaux near the town of Montignac in the Dordogne region of France. You can’t visit the original cave, but you can visit Lascaux IV, which is a replica of 90% of the paintings found in the original cave.
Until we visited, we thought that seeing a replica wouldn’t be worth the trip. We were wrong! The 40-minute guided tour was wonderful and highly recommended. The unparalleled energy and beauty of the paintings is awe-inspiring.
Lascaux cave paintings – Source: Wikipedia
Visiting Lascaux
For more information about visiting Lascaux, check out my post about visiting and enjoying spectacular Lascaux IV.
Other Prehistory Sites Near Lascaux
The area around Lascaux is teeming with prehistory. South of Montignac is Les Eyzies where you’ll find the wonderful Musée National de Préhistoire. Start your exploration here to discover the rich paleolithic heritage of the Vézère Valley, also known as the European “Valley of Man.”
Musée National de Préhistoire in Les Eyzies
Not far from Les Eyzies is the Grotte de Font-de-Gaume where you can view over 800 engravings and drawings of prehistoric horses, bison, aurochs, lions, reindeer, and more.
The Font-de-Gaume is one of the few extensive prehistoric caves still open to the public. Check online for information and to buy tickets. Admission is limited so make sure to buy tickets well in advance.
A virtual tour of the Font-de-Gaume is also available.
Known as the island of ancient stones, tiny Gavrinis is located in the Gulf of Morbihan, renowned as one of the largest and most beautiful bodies of water in France.
In an area brimming with ancient burial sites, stone alignments, and other Neolithic sites, the burial chamber at Gavrinis is considered one of the most interesting.
Aerial view of the island of Gavrinis in the Gulf of Morbihan
The Neolithic structure on the island of Gavrinis consists of a tumulus (earth mound) that covers a cairn (stone mound) that in turn covers a dolmen within which is the stone burial chamber. At Winter Solstice, the sun shines down the passageway and hits the back wall.
What makes Gavrinis unique are the swirling patterns and symbols cut deep into 23 of the 29 rock slabs that form the 24-meter passageway leading to the burial chamber. The designs were cut into the stone over 5,500 years ago (3,500 BC) by some very artistic and amazing people.
Replica of part of the Gavrinis Passage in the Bougon Museum – Source: Wikipedia
Who were the artists who created these carvings and why did they make them? You’ll find out on the 90-minute guided tour (including the boat trip) required to view the burial chamber.
The carved patterns are startling in their modernity—zigzag lines, swirls, lozenges, and circles. Some of the shapes appear to be non-abstract objects, such as axes and horns.
Visiting Gavrinis
The island is accessible by a guided tour from the small town of Larmor-Baden. The boat trip across the sparkling waters of the Gulf of Morbihan makes the 90-minute tour especially enjoyable.
Boat trip across the Gulf of Morbihan to the island of Gavrinis
Check the Brittany Tourism site for more information about touring Gavrinis.
#7: Carnac, Brittany
After visiting Gavrinis, head a little farther north to enjoy one of the most remarkable–and largest–stone alignments in Europe. Over 3,000 standing stones march across the fields near Carnac.
Gregg still remembers fondly the morning a friendly farmer opened a gate to let him wander at will through a section of the stone alignments. Gregg didn’t know at the time that the farmer was doing him a favor and that normally, the area is off limits to tourists.
Megalithic alignments at Carnac
Visiting Carnac
Because it’s famous, Carnac can get crowded and attracts tour busses. Fortunately, you’ll find many other standing stones, tumuli, and dolmen throughout Brittany. Most of the time, these sites are deserted so you can commune in solitude with the spirits of the ancients.
Other Prehistory Sites in the Carnac Area
Other prehistory highlights in the area include Barnenez, one of the oldest man-made structures in the world, and the megaliths at Locmariaquer.
Barnenez in BrittanyGrand menhir at Locmariaquer in Brittany
Conclusion
I never tire of seeking out prehistory sites and marveling at the intelligence that created them. So little is known about the why and the how of these incredible iterations of the creativity and drive of early humans.
As I mentioned, my list only barely scratches the surface of all the prehistoric sites scattered around Europe. As you travel, be on the lookout for stone circles, ancient caves, dolmens, and ancient burial sites.
I’ve often discovered new prehistoric sites when I wasn’t even looking for them. Check at the local tourist offices and ask your bed-and-breakfast hosts about local sites. We’d never heard of the Cueva de la Pileta until told about it by the host of the Hotel Cortijo-las-Piletas where we were staying.
I also remember stumbling across the Castlerigg Stone Circle near Keswick in England’s Lake District because I saw a sign pointing to it and, on a whim, followed it. What a magical place!
Castlerigg Ancient Stone Circle, near Keswick Town, Lake District National Park, Cumbria County, England, UK
I’ll leave you with a picture of a site that is high on my list of next-sees–the standing stones of Callanish on the Isle of Lewis in the far north of Scotland.
Callanish henge on Isle of Lewis, Scotland
Do you have ancient sites you’d like to tell other Artsy Travelers about? Please leave comments below and let us know about them.
Here are some more posts on Artsy Traveler about recommended sightseeing in Europe:
