17 Must-See Places to Visit in France You Should Know About

As the largest country in western Europe, France has more than its fair share of amazing places to visit.

I’ve been going to France since 1970 when, at the age of 14, I traveled around Europe with my mother on a budget of about $10 a day (you can read about that trip in My Story. This amount covered our hotels, city tours, meals, and probably even our Eurail passes. I don’t remember exactly because I wasn’t paying the bill.

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Since then, I’ve returned to France numerous times—both alone and with Gregg (usually with Gregg). In the past ten years, we’ve visited France together eight times, bringing my lifetime total to 17 visits.

So if you’re wondering why I’m listing 17 places to visit in France, now you know! I want to celebrate my 17 visits to France by listing my 17 quirky, fascinating, amazing favorites. Each holds special memories for me that I want to share with other artsy travelers.

Carol Cram in Normandy countryside
In the Normandy countryside about an hour south of Honfleur, one of my 17 Awesome Places in France

Map of France Showing My 17 Choices

The map below shows my 17 choices in the order in which I mention them, starting with Honfleur (#1) and ending with the Fontainebleau Forest (#17). If you have wheels, you could easily string together an around-France itinerary using these 17 places as stop-over points.

I also include a Google map showing the location of each individual place following its description in the post.

Making the List

You may not have heard of all of theses places to visit in France, but each is worth a visit.

For a place to make my list, it needed to have an artsy component, be beautiful (not hard to do in France), and be off the beaten path. As a result, you won’t find the big name places like Paris, Nice, and Lyon on the list (fabulous though they are).

Ready to check out my 17 favorite places to visit in France? Here they are, starting with Honfleur on the Normandy coast northwest of Paris and going in a more or less counter-clockwise direction to take in Brittany, the Loire Valley, the Dordogne, the south of France, the east of France and ending at the Fontainebleau Forest just south of Paris.

#1: Honfleur, Normandy

A few years ago, Gregg and I were fortunate to be artists-in-residence at a gallery located in the Perche region of central Normandy. For two months when we weren’t painting (Gregg) and writing (me), we explored this beautiful and untrammeled area. Although close to Paris, peaceful rural Normandy feels like another country.

On one trip, we went north to the gorgeous little town of Honfleur on the Normandy coast. To our delight, Honfleur was packed with artsy sites.

What is Special About Honfleur as Place to Visit in France?

Art Galleries in Honfleur

First of all, if you’re looking to purchase art, Honfleur is renowned for its galleries. You can spend many happy hours browsing the offerings in the galleries lining the streets leading to the harbor.

From an architectural perspective, Honfleur has much to offer. The Church of St. Catherine on the town square was built entirely of wood in the late 15th century by shipwrights. Wander through the church to view its many decorative details.

Church of St. Catherine in Honfleur, Normandy. Honfleur is one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France.
Church of St. Catherine in Honfleur, Normandy

The Vieux-Bassin

You’ll eventually end up at the harbor (the vieux-bassin), surely one of the most stunning sights in Normandy. The distinctive high and narrow timber-frame houses are reflected in the still water of the boat-filled harbor.

We spent quite a bit of time walking along the harborfront enjoying the gorgeous views and stopping for a dinner of moules et frites (mussels and fries) along with local wine.

The Vieux-Bassin in Honfleur harbor is lined with wonderful cafés. It's one of my recommended places to visit in France
The Vieux-Bassin in Honfleur harbor is lined with wonderful cafés.

Museums in Honfleur

Two museums in Honfleur are particularly attractive to the Artsy Museum.

First up is the Musée Eugène Boudin, named after the painter Boudin who was born in Honfleur. The museum exhibits an impressive collection of Boudin’s paintings along with works by other artists who have visited or are closely associated with Honfleur, including some big names: Courbet, Dufy, and Monet (you’ve probably heard of him!).

As a side note, Honfleur is not far from Étretat which we also visited. Courbet, Boudin and Monet each painted these cliffs.

Alabaster Coast at Etretat.  Aval cliff. Normandy, France, one of my recommended places to visit in France
Alabaster Coast at Étretat. Aval cliff. Normandy, France.

But our favorite of the two museums we visited in Honfleur is the entrancingly eccentric Maisons Satie. Housed in the birthplace of the composer and darling of the Dadaists, Erik Satie (1866-1925), the museum takes you on an interactive tour of Satie’s music.

Armed with an audio guide, you prowl through dark rooms and activate various musical themes from Satie’s work. It’s a playhouse for music-loving grownups that puts the q in quirky.

If you love Satie’s music (Gymnopedies and Gnossienne are his most famous works), then don’t miss this wacky, wonderful museum.

Getting to Honfleur

Map showing location of Honfleur northwest of Paris
Location of Honfleur northwest of Paris

Honfleur is about a two-hour drive northwest of Paris. The Normandy coast from Honfleur in the northeast to Mont St. Michel in the southwest on the border with Brittany is worth a good long stay.

In addition to Étretat, two other highlights of this fascinating section of coastline are the D-Day beaches and Bayeux. Both places witnessed invasions, a millennium apart.

D-Day Beaches in Normandy Near Honfleur

At the D-Day beaches, I was struck by the spectacular beauty of this stretch of coastline. That it was the scene of so much death and destruction in 1944 is sobering. We visited the marvelous museum and memorial at Juno Beach where the Canadians landed. The Caen Memorial Museum near Caen south of the beaches is also worth a visit.

You can take a guided tour of the area from Paris.

Omaha Beach in Normandy
Omaha Beach
Portion of the Bayeux tapestry showing Edward the Confessor who is looking a trifle bemused
Portion of the Bayeux tapestry showing Edward the Confessor who is looking a trifle bemused

Bayeux Tapestry

A millennium earlier, the French went in the opposite direction to invade England. At Bayeux, you can see the Bayeux tapestry that documents the invasion. The audio guide presentation of the tapestry is excellent–a definite must-see.

For more detailed information about recommended places to see in Normandy, check out Top Normandy Sights for Art & History Lovers.

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Honfleur

Honfleur makes a good home base for a few days while you tour the area. We stayed at the Hôtel L’Ecrin, a lovely old mansion house set in beautiful gardens that included a pool. Free parking was a bonus as was the location of the hotel, an easy stroll to the harbor.

Check the map below for other accommodation options in the area.

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For more about traveling around and enjoying Normandy, see my post Top Normandy Sights to Excite Art & History Lovers.


#2: Côte de Granit Rose, Brittany

Gregg and I have visited the spectacular Côte de Granit Rose twice and hope to return. Thanks to its many plages (beaches), the area is a popular destination in the summer for French families. But the area doesn’t feel touristy or crowded.

What is Special About the Côte de Granit Rose as a Place to Visit in France?

The thirty-kilometer stretch of pink granite rocks twisted into fantastic shapes is considered one of the most outstanding coastlines in Europe. The marriage of pink rocks with turquoise ocean has inspired many artists, notably the French surrealist artist Yves Tanguy (1900-1955).

The Côte de Granit Rose in northern Brittany is a delight for the senses.

This area is perfect for walking and hiking. In fact, you can walk the sentier de douaniers, a former coastguard footpath, from Perros-Guirec via Ploumanac’h to Trégastel Plage. You’ll pass rocks that make you think of slabs of pink-tinted fudge huddled around invitingly sandy coves perfect for paddling in.

The last time we were in the area, a violent windstorm reminded us how nature is her own best artist, using wind and water to sculpt the rocks into such fantastic shapes.

Getting to the Côte de Granit Rose

Map showing the 30-kilometer stretch of coastline between Perros-Guirec and Tregastel is known as the Côte de Granit Rose.
The 30-kilometer stretch of coastline between Perros-Guirec and Trégastel is known as the Côte de Granit Rose.

You need a car to tour this area of northern Brittany. Consider allocating a week to enjoy two or three areas in Brittany–perhaps two nights in the Côte de Granit Rose, two nights farther west in Crozon in the Parc Naturel Regional d’Armorique, and then two nights farther south near Carnac.

View of Pointe de Pen-Hir on the Crozon peninsula in Brittany.
For even more amazing coastline, go farther west to the Pointe de Pen-Hir on the Crozon peninsula in Brittany.

But even a week isn’t long enough. You could easily spend two weeks!

In Brittany, driving is slow along small country roads, and Brittany itself is surprisingly large and varied. Take your time to explore both the northern and the western/southern coasts of this spectacular peninsula.

Did you know that in Brittany, people consider themselves Bretons first, French second? You will occasionally see signs written in Breton–a language related to the Celtic languages of the British isles. After all, Brittany is not far from Cornwall in England.

Practical Tips for Your Visit to the Côte de Granit Rose

We always found delightful small hotels in Brittany. Another option is to rent a house for an extended stay. And while you’re in Brittany, make sure you sample plenty of galettes–the Breton crepes.

Towns to stay at in the area include Trégastel, Perros-Guirec, and Saint-Guirec.

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#3: Gavrinis, Gulf of Morbihan, Brittany

Known as the island of ancient stones, tiny Gavrinis is located in the Gulf of Morbihan, renowned as one of the largest and most beautiful bodies of water in France.

In an area brimming with ancient burial sites, stone alignments, and other Neolithic sites, the burial chamber at Gavrinis is considered one of the most interesting.

What is Special about Gavrinis as a Place to Visit in France?

The Neolithic structure on the island of Gavrinis consists of a tumulus (earth mound) that covers a cairn (stone mound) that in turn covers a dolmen within which is the stone burial chamber. We were told that at Winter Solstice, the sun shines down the passageway and hits the back wall.

How did Neolithic people figure out how to do that? I haven’t a clue, but I love visiting neolithic sites, like Carnac in Brittany and of course, the big kahuna, Stonehenge in England, to try and find out.

What makes Gavrinis unique are the swirling patterns and symbols cut deep into 23 of the 29 rock slabs that form the 24-meter passageway leading to the burial chamber. The designs were cut into the stone over 5,500 years ago (3,500 BC) by some very artistic and amazing people.

Gavrinis passage, replica.Musée de Bougon

[CC BY-SA 4.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)]–Gavrinis passage. Replica in the “Musée des tumulus de Bougon” (Deux-Sèvres), France.

Who were they and why did they make the carvings? You’ll find out on the 90-minute guided tour (including the boat trip) required to view the burial chamber.

The carved patterns are startling in their modernity—zigzag lines, swirls, lozenges, and circles. Some of the shapes appear to be non-abstract objects, such as axes and horns.

Getting To Gavrinis

Gavrinis is located in the Gulf of Morbihan in the southern area of Brittany in western France – Map data @ 2019 Google

The island is accessible by a guided tour from the small town of Larmor-Baden. The boat trip across the sparkling waters of the Gulf of Morbihan makes the 90-minute tour especially enjoyable.

Boat trip across the Gulf of Morbihan to the island of Gavrinis , one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France.
Boat trip across the Gulf of Morbihan to the island of Gavrinis

Check the Brittany Tourism site for more information about touring Gavrinis.

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Gavrinis

The Gulf of Morbihan area is worth several days of your time so you can explore dozens more Neolithic sites and enjoy the marine scenery.

The island of Gavrinis is uninhabited and the village of Larmor-Baden where you catch the boat to tour Gavrinis doesn’t have much in the way of accommodations. However, you’ll find plenty of small, family-run hotels in the area. Zoom out the map below to find some options.

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#4: Chenonceau, Loire Valley

The Loire Valley is famous for its beauty, its wine, and its châteaux. It’s definitely a must-visit place in France! Even if you don’t have a week to explore, consider taking a day trip from Paris to at least see the highlights.

Back in the days before the French Revolution, kings and dukes and marquises and your basic blue-blood types built their summer cottages in the Loire Valley.

Chateau de Chenonceau is a french castle spanning the River Cher near Chenonceaux village, Loire valley in France. It's one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France.
Château de Chenonceau is a French castle spanning the River Cher near Chenonceaux village, Loire valley in France

Okay, cottages is maybe a bit of a misnomer. The number, variety, size, and awesomeness of the châteaux in the Loire is astonishing. You won’t run out of architectural wonders to gawk at, ornamental gardens to wander through, and history to learn.

What is Special about Chenonceau as a Place to Visit in France?

The Château de Chenonceau is my favorite Loire Valley château.

A series of graceful arches supports the château across the river Cher. In World War II, Vichy France was on one side of the river and Free France was on the other. I wonder how many people used the château to escape to freedom.

The first château dated from the 12th and 13th centuries, of which only the dungeon remains: the Tour des Marques. The château in its current form was built between 1513 and 1517.

Women have played an outsized role in the development of Chenonceau. Henry II gave the château to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers, who, shortly after his death, was kicked out by his wife, Queen Catherine d’Medici. Catherine managed the Kingdom of France from her study, the Green Cabinet at Chenonceau.

In the 18th century, Louise Dupin, an exceptional woman who drafted a Code of Women’s Rights, entertained some of the biggest names of the Age of Enlightenment at Chenonceau.

During your visit through the sumptuous rooms, you’ll learn all about these remarkable women and a lot more. Also visit the formal gardens and imagine yourself in Renaissance dress taking your morning constitutional. There is even a maze!

If you had money back in those days, you sure had it made.

Getting to Chenonceau

Chenonceau is located on the Cher river 214 km west of Paris and 34 km east of Tours. If you don’t have time to stay in the Loire Valley, consider taking a tour from Paris. Here are some options.

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Chenonceau

Spend several days in the Loire Valley so you can visit more than one château, but limit yourself to two a day, at most. Château-visiting gets tiring after a while. Less is more.

To minimize driving, spend two or three days around Tours near Chenonceau and then another two or three days closer to Blois. You won’t run out of places to visit.

Another highlight of a visit to the Loire Valley and the area around Chenonceau is the opportunity to sample excellent wine and food. Of course, that’s true pretty much anywhere in France, but the Loire Valley is particularly blessed.

Zoom out the map below to find accommodation options in the Loire Valley.



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For more information about visiting Chenonceau, check the website.


#5: Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil, Dordogne, Aquitaine

I chose Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil (Les Eyzies for short) because it’s smack in the middle of some of the Dordogne’s most compelling prehistory attractions.

Houses in the town of Les Eyzies, Dordogne, France under the shadow of overhanging limestone cliffs. It's one of my recommended places to visit in France.
Houses in the town of Les Eyzies, Dordogne, France under the shadow of overhanging limestone cliffs

Gregg and I are suckers for prehistory–cave paintings, dolmens, megalithic monuments, archeological museums, the lot. If it’s really old, we like it. And if you are also that way inclined, head for this area of the Dordogne around Les Eyzies.

What is Special about Les Eyzies as a Place to Visit in France?

It’s small and charming and is the location of the wonderful Musée National de Préhistoire. Start your exploration here to discover the rich paleolithic heritage of the Vézère Valley, also known as the European “Valley of Man.”

Statue of an early human outside the Musée National de Prehistoire in Les Eyzies
Musée National de Préhistoire in Les Eyzies

Not far from Les Eyzies is the Grotte de Font-de-Gaume where you can view over 800 engravings and drawings of prehistoric horses, bison, aurochs, lions, reindeer, and more.

The Font-de-Gaume is one of the few extensive prehistoric caves still open to the public. Check online for information and to buy tickets. Admission is limited so make sure you buy your tickets well in advance of your visit.

A virtual tour of the cave is also available.

You’ll find many more prehistoric sites in the area. Stay a few days around Les Eyzies and then drive about thirty minutes north to Montignac to visit Lascaux II. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit there and recommend it to anyone interested in prehistoric cave painting.

Yes, Lascaux II is a replica of 90% of the paintings found in the original cave, but it is still awe-inspiring. You must take the 40-minute guided tour. Check the website for information.

Getting to Les Eyzies

Les Eyzies is a two-hour drive east of Bordeaux in the Aquitaine region of southwest France. Consider staying for several days in the area. In addition to exploring prehistoric sites, châteaux. and super-charming villages, you will find many great restaurants.

We had one of the best meals we’ve enjoyed in France (and that’s saying something) at a restaurant overlooking a sleepy canal not far from Les Eyzies.

Carol Cram enjoying dinner next to a canal in the Dordogne
Dinner next to a canal in the Dordogne
Presentation of L'Escargots at a nice restaurant in France
L’Escargots

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Les Eyzies

You’ll find plenty of charming family-run places in the area. On one trip, we stayed in the tiny village of Thonac about halfway between Motignanc and Les Eyzies. The place was on the Vézère River, which we spent an afternoon canoeing down. Heavenly.

Zoom to see accommodation options in the Dordogne.



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#6: Albi, Midi-Pyrénées

Albi in southwest France is a charmingly walkable city with a wonderful red brick cathedral and the world-class Musée Toulouse-Lautrec. If you’re on your way to the Pyrénées, take a day out for Albi.

What is Special about Albi as a Place to Visit in France?

It’s just so darned pretty with its red bricks glowing in the evening light, good restaurants, panoramas over the River Tarn, and laid-back atmosphere.

I also like that it’s steeped in the history of the Cathars–the enlightened sect that practiced a form of proto-Protestantism and refused to recognize the authority of the Catholic church. That didn’t go down too well with the Church (no surprise there) and led to the Cathars being cruelly wiped out in the Albigensian Crusade (1209-1229).

Dominating the ridge above the Tarn River, the cathedral was built a few decades after the conflict and looks more like a fortress than a church. It’s the only large gothic cathedral built out of bricks (pink ones at that) rather than stone.

Here’s a view of the cathedral from our bed-and-breakfast across the river.

Cathedral at Albi seen from across the River Tarn; Albi is one of my recommended places to visit in France
Cathedral in Albi

In addition to the cathedral, the big attraction in Albi is the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec located in the also-pink-bricked medieval Palais de la Berbie next to the cathedral.

I include the museum in my post about Seven Super Single-Artist Museums in Europe.

Getting to Albi

Albi is located 85 km northeast of Toulouse. I recommend staying the night so you can wander around the narrow cobbled streets in the evening and watch the sun as it sets over the cathedral.

Map showing the location of Albi
Map showing the location of Albi in southwest France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Albi

Albi makes a good stop either on your way east from the Dordogne or on your way west toward the Pyrenees and Spain. It’s far enough off the beaten track to retain its provincial feel while still maintaining good tourist services.

Zoom to find accommodation options in Albi.



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#7: Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux, Milau, Midi-Pyrénées 

If you like weird rock formations, you must pay a visit to the Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux. Situated in the heart of the Grand Causses Regional Natural Park about 15 km from Milau and south of the Ardeche area of southwest France, the Chaos is far off the beaten path. You’ll need to plan a special trip.

Panorama at the Chaos of Montepllier le Vieux, one of my recommended places to visit in France
Panorama at the Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux
Photo Credit: La Cité de Pierres

What is Special about Chaos of Montpellier- le-Vieux as a Place to Visit in France?

The Chaos is nature’s art gallery–a maze of canyons bristling with tortured limestone formations. You’ll find over 30 natural works of art, the result of centuries of erosion, with fanciful names such as The Great Sphinx, L’Arc de Triomphe, The Crocodile, The Cathedral, and the Chair of the Devil.

The most accessible rock formations are contained within a 120-hectare area called La Cité de Pierres. On the website, you’ll find information and pictures about the geology, the 30 natural works of “roc-Art”, the 12 rock shelters showing evidence of human habitation from the Neolithic period to the Middle Ages, and some beautiful panoramas.

Getting to Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux

It’s pretty remote! We visited while enroute from the city of Montpellier on the Mediterranean northwest toward Albi.

Map showing the location of the Chaos de Montpellier-le-Vieux in southwest France
Map showing the location of the Chaos de Montpellier-le-Vieux in southwest France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux

The area is rugged with some of the most precipitous roads we’ve ever driven in Europe. Leave yourself plenty of time and consider staying the night in Milau.



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#8: Camargue, Provence

South of Arles and bordering on the Mediterranean Sea is Europe’s largest river delta–the vast, flat, and wildlife-teeming Camargue. Every time we visit, we declare that we really need to stay longer to explore the lakes and marshlands.

The Parc naturel régional de Camargue protects the area and provides visitors with facilities such as observation towers, information boards, themed trails, and guided tours.

What is Special about the Camargue as a Place to Visit in France?

The wild and flat scenery is beautiful, but for me the big attraction of the Camargue is its wildlife–horses, bulls, and especially flamingos. I don’t know why, but it feels very exotic to come across flocks of flamingos in Europe. Even from the road, you can see them standing serenely in the marshes, looking pink and delightful. If you’re into birds, the Camargue is a must-see with more than 400 species of birds.

Pink flamingos in the Camargue, one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France
Pink flamingos in the Camargue

On one trip to the beach, we were surprised to look across the marsh from where we’d parked the car and see several very large, very horned grazing bulls. We stayed clear! Shortly after seeing the bulls, Gregg dove into a foot of water (he thought it was deeper) and smacked his head on the sea bottom. Fortunately, it was sand, but the bruise persisted for many days!

Black Camarguais bulls in swamp, southern France
Black Camarguais bulls in swamp, southern France

And of course, if you’re lucky, you’ll see the famous Camargue horses galloping freely, white manes flowing. Riding stables are scattered throughout the area if you harbor fantasies of riding a horse along the beach. Here’s a TripAdvisor list of horseback riding tours accessible from Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer.

White Camargue Horses running free
White Camargue horses running free

Getting to the Camargue

The Camargue is located between Montpellier in the west and Marseille in the east. Drive south from Arles and you’re in the Camargue.

Map showing the location of the Parc naturel régional de Camargue
Map showing the location of the Parc naturel régional de Camargue west of Marseille

A good strategy for exploring the area in a few days is to home base in either Arles or Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer. We like both places for different reasons. Arles has the Roman arena and, of course, its association with Vincent van Gogh. With its winding streets, good shopping, and outdoor cafes, it’s a very pleasant town to spend time in.

Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer is, as its name suggests, on the Mediterranean Sea. Bristling with boats, cute shops, and cafes, the town is well worth a visit. When we were last there, it was mid-springtime, and the place was virtually deserted.

Carol Cram on the beach near Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer, one of my recommended places to visit in France,
On the beach near Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer

Practical Tips for Your Visit to the Camargue

Two words: mosquito repellent! We got caught without any while taking a stroll through the Camargue wetlands in mid-summer and oh, dear. It was not pretty. I tried counting how many mosquito bites I got and had to give up.

We discovered a brand of mosquito repellent in France called Le Camargue. That tells you something.

Below are accommodation options in the area.



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#9: Carrières de Lumières, Les Baux-de-Provence

This relatively new attraction in a quarry near Les Baux-de-Provence brings you up close and personal with massive projections of artworks, particularly the art of Vincent van Gogh. Managed by CultureSpaces, the exhibition is a “digital immersive experience.”

Van Gogh Experience at Carrières de Lumières
Van Gogh Experience at Carrières de Lumières

We visited in June 2019 and saw two “experiences”: Van Gogh and Japanese Prints. Both ran about 30 minutes and were accompanied by music.

What is Special about Carrières de Lumières as a Place to Visit in France?

Digital immersive experiences are definitely becoming a thing. The CultureSpaces website list three digital art centres in France: The Carrières de Lumières in Les-Baux-de-Provence, the Atelier des Lumières in Paris, and the Bassins de Lumières in Bordeaux.

In the enormous interior space that was once a rock quarry, artworks are projected and duplicated. You are literally walking into the art. The experience is truly remarkable.

Here’s a video I took of the van Gogh performance when the sunflower paintings were being projected. The venue is dark, but you can get some idea of the scale of the projections.

Getting to Carrières de Lumières

The Carrières de Lumières is located 800 m from the Château des Baux-de-Provence, 15 km north-east of Arles and 30 km south of Avignon.

Map showing location of Carrières de Lumières near Les-Baux-de-Provence
Map showing the location of Carrières de Lumières near Les-Baux-de-Provence

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Carrières de Lumières

Purchase your tickets in advance. Admission to the Carrières is strictly
limited so if you don’t have advance tickets, you may be out of luck. Parking
near the venue is also very limited. Check the website for details.

Once you’ve toured the Carrières de Lumières, spend some time exploring
Les Baux-de-Provence, preferably in the late afternoon or early evening when the bus tours have pulled out. From the ramparts at the top of the village, you get a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside.

Each time we’ve stayed near Les Baux-de-Provence, we’ve found wonderful
rural properties with pools. Here’s a video I shot on the grounds of the Domaine du Mas Foucray situated near the small town of Maussane-les-Alpilles and within sight of Les-Baux-de-Provence. Billed as an aparthotel, our one-bedroom suite included a kitchen and sitting area and a private terrace. In early July when we were there, we picked fresh apricots off the trees.

For more options, see the map below.



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#10: Roussillon, Luberon, Provence

Roussillon has been a family favorite since we first discovered it 25 years ago. The red and ocher walls of the village houses distinguish it from other villages in the Luberon area.

The village itself is truly lovely in an area full of lovely villages, including Bonnieux, Ménerbes and Gordes. Pick any village in the Luberon and settle in for several days.

Colorful houses in the village of Roussillon. one of my recommended places to visit in France
Colorful houses in the village of Roussillon

What is Special about Roussillon as a Place to Visit in France ?

What really distinguishes Roussillon are the ochre cliffs situated about 200 meters from the entrance to the village. Trails that make up the Le Sentier des Ocres wind through this magical area where the vivid oranges, yellows and reds of the ochre cliffs contrast with the green trees and brilliant blue Provençal sky.

Ochre landscape at Roussillon in Provence, France, one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France
Ochre landscape at Roussillon in Provence, France

When you arrive in Roussillon, leave your car in the main parking area and walk to where Le Sentier des Ocres starts. Visit Roussillon late in the day, say, about an hour before the quarry closes. Then you can enjoy it relatively crowd-free and take spectacular photographs of the ochre cliffs in the afternoon sun. After your stroll through the quarry, wander around the village and have dinner at one of the local restaurants.

Several shops sell locally produced ceramics (I have a piece on my desk as I write) and other Provence-themed products. End the day by dining at one of the many restaurants in the village. Most have terraces and beautiful views.

Carol Cram at the Le Sentier des Ocres near Roussillon
At the Le Sentier des Ocres near Roussillon

Getting to Roussillon

Roussillon is about an hour’s drive east of Avignon. The main villages–Gordes, Ménerbes, and Bonnieux– are close by. You need a car to enjoy the area.

Map showing the location of Roussillon in the Luberon region of Provence
Map showing the location of Roussillon in the Luberon region of Provence

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Roussillon

Here are two highly recommended hotels in the Luberon, one in Roussillon and one in Gordes.

Les Sables d’Ocre – A 15-minute walk from the village of Roussillon, this place sets the bar for what a country-style, family-run, low-key, easy-on-the-budget place should be. Book a room that includes a terrace. You’ll have your own private outdoor space and be steps from the pool.

Domaine de l’Enclos – This place close to Gordes–one of the most beautiful hill towns in the area–is wonderful. We snagged a room with a terrace which Gregg made use of to do some drawing. The views from the garden over the Luberon are spectacular.

For more accommodation options, check the map below.



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#11: Château La Coste, Aix-en-Provence

On a beautiful May day in 2018, we drove into the hills behind Aix-en-Provence with no particular destination in mind. The day was gorgeous–fluffy white clouds, not too hot, fresh breeze. Perfection!

We hoped to stumble across a nice side-of-the-road restaurant to enjoy a hearty Provençal lunch, preferably overlooking the landscape that had inspired Cézanne.

Rounding a bend in the twisty secondary road, I saw a sign to Château La Coste. I didn’t know anything about the place, but in the vague hope that it would have a café attached to it, I told Gregg to turn left and follow the signs.

And so we discovered lovely and luscious Château La Coste with its gourmet lunch and, best of all, its several hectares of modern outdoor sculptures.

What is Special about Château La Coste as a Place to Visit in France?

Château La Coste is a vineyard that also features a fabulous art walk populated with modern sculpture. Artists and architects from around the world were invited to visit the domaine and choose a place in the landscape on which to create a sculpture or installation.

The resulting Art Walk is an eclectic array of pieces, many which move with the wind and can be pushed, sat upon, and walked through. The Art Walk is extensive and includes hills, so put on your walking shoes and bring water.

Here’s a selection of pieces we explored.

Gregg walking through a colorful sculpture
Gregg walking through a colorful sculpture
Sculpture by Calder at the entrance to the Chateau la Coste, one of my recommended places to visit in France
Sculpture by Calder at the entrance to the Château La Coste
Sculpture in front of the glorious Provence landscape at Chateau la Coste
Sculpture in front of the glorious Provence landscape at Château La Coste

Getting to Château La Coste

Château La Coste is about 15 km north of Aix-en-Provence along a beautiful winding secondary road with gorgeous views over the countryside. Drop in for lunch (the food was fabulous!), pick up a few bottles of wine, and do the Art Walk. You can easily spend an entire afternoon there.

Map showing the location of Château La Coste north of Aix-en-Provence
Map showing the location of Château La Coste north of Aix-en-Provence

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Château La Coste

You can go all out and spend a night (or three) at the Villa La Coste, billed as a luxury hotel and spa. It’s way out of our price range, but wow – it looks amazing!

Here are other options in the area.



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#12: Seillans, Var, Provence

When you drive into Seillans, a hill town in the Var region of Provence, you are greeted by a sign announcing Seillans as among the Plus Beaux Villages de France; that is, one of the most beautiful villages in France.

You see these signs all over France at the entrance to villages. On the official website, 159 villages are currently listed. Follow the link above to view them. The website is in French, but the site includes plenty of pictures and maps.


What is Special about Seillans as a Place to Visit in France?

We don’t love Seillans because it’s beautiful (and it really is). We love it because of its association with Gregg’s favorite surrealist artist—Max Ernst.

From 1964 until his death in 1976, Max Ernst lived in Seillans with his wife, Dorothea Tanning, another noted surrealist artist. View a selection of their lithographs at the Seillans tourist office located in the main square about 100 meters from the parking area.

Large black-and-white photographs of Ernst are posted on the stone wall lining the cobbled street leading down to the square.

Max Ernst and Gregg  just before Gregg hangs an exhibition of his paintings in Seillans
Max Ernst and Gregg, just before Gregg hangs an exhibition of his paintings in Seillans

Just past the square is the exhibition space—the Salle du Couvent (a former convent) in which Gregg has twice exhibited his work, most recently in June, 2019.

We spent two weeks in Seillans. While Gregg chatted with visitors to his exhibition, I wandered around Seillans, snapping pictures and communing with the ghosts of the centuries of humanity who made Seillans home.

Seillans was likely founded around 500 BC by the Saillens, a Celtic-Ligurian tribe. The village grew slowly with one of the oldest surviving structures, the castle from the 11th century, located at the top of the village.

You can only explore Seillans by foot. Drive up the steep road leading from the lower entrance to the village as far as you can go, then leave your car in the large and shady parking lot. From there, walk into the village to explore its quaint and shady streets.

Read more about The Fortified Hilltop Village of Seillans in the Var, Provence.


Getting To Seillans

Seillans is about a 30-minute drive from the A8 motorway that connects the Riviera with Aix-en-Provence, Marseille, and western France. You can choose to exit the motorway at two places. Coming from the west (Aix-en-Provence or Marseille), take Exit 36 and drive north toward Callas. You’ll pass gorgeous wineries sprawling across the rolling countryside.

Vineyards in the Var region of southern France, an area that is one of my fave places to visit in France
Vineyards in the Var region of southern France

Coming from the east (Nice or Cannes), take Exit 39 and drive alongside the stunning Lac de Saint-Cassien that is actually reservoir and accessible at several points for water sports.

Map showing the location of Seillans in the Var region of Provence in southern France about an hour drive from Nice
Map showing the location of Seillans in the Var region of Provence in southern France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Seillans

Seillans is one of several appealing villages in the Var region of Provence. The region is perfect for a one-week stay to fully immerse yourself in the heat and beauty of this relatively under-touristed area. You are only about an hour from the glitz and galleries of the Cote d’Azur; about 40 minutes due south are Sainte-Raphael and Frejus where you can swim in the Mediterranean.

Overlooking the Mediterranean from Cap Esterel about 40 minutes south of Seillans, one of my recommended places to visit in France
Overlooking the Mediterranean from Cap Esterel about 40 minutes south of Seillans

And if you go to Seillans even for a short visit, stay overnight in the area and have dinner at one of Seillans’ wonderful small restaurants. We enjoyed a marvelous meal at Chez Hugo which perches on the edge of Seillans overlooking the bucolic Var countryside.

You’ll find small B&B’s in the area along with several homestay options. We rented a house for two weeks through HomeAway. The house was about a 30-minute walk to the village of Seillans along a lovely country road.

To find other accommodation options in the area, zoom out on the map below.

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#13: Vence, Côte d’Azur

Over the years, we’ve stayed in a few towns in the hills above Cannes and Nice in the Côte d’Azur. Our favorite is still Vence. It’s big enough to feel like a real town and old and quaint enough to be enjoyable to stroll around.

Whenever we fantasize about living in the south of France, we inevitably agree that Vence would be the perfect location.

What is Special about Vence as a Place to Visit in France?

The town itself is the attraction. Perched high above the Mediterranean Sea, it feels a world away from the glitz and bustle of cities like Canne and Nice. The pedestrian-only medieval streets are quiet and relatively crowd-free, certainly compared to the towns bordering the sea.

Enjoy lunch or dinner in a café, do some shopping, and take in an art exhibition

A highlight of a trip to Vence is touring the Chapelle du Rosaire de Vence, otherwise known as the Matisse Chapel. The stained glass and murals are spare and modern. Matisse himself considered the chapel his masterpiece.

Getting to Vence

You need a car to really enjoy Vence and the surrounding areas. Drive farther north up the Col de Vence to enjoy stunning views of the countryside and the Mediterranean. Also visit Saint-Paul-de-Vence a few kilometers south. The Fondation Maeght is the big attraction there. Read about it in Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe.

Map showing the location of Vence between Cannes and Nice
Map showing the location of Vence between Cannes and Nice

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Vence

In all the years we’ve been visiting the area, we’ve never not found great, family-run hotels to stay in. Here are some options.



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#14: Monte Carlo, Côte d’Azur

The last time we visited Monte Carlo (which I know is technically not in France), we did so by mistake. The house we’d rented way up in the hills above Monaco turned out to not be available when we arrived, and we were obliged to find alternative accommodations.

We rolled down the very steep hills to the Mediterranean and for three nights stayed right on the harbor in Monte Carlo. To Gregg’s delight, our hotel overlooked not only the boats in the harbor but also part of the route of the Monaco Grand Prix. Preparations were underway for the 2018 race while we were there.

Our splurgeworthy 4-star hotel room would shoot from a relatively affordable 200 euros per night to 2000 euros per night on race days!

Harbor at Monte Carlo in Monaco
Harbor at Monte Carlo in Monaco

What is Special about Monte Carlo as a Place to Visit in France?

I never expected to like Monte Carlo so much. I’d visited before but only for a short time–just long enough to see where the casino was but not to go in since we were traveling with Julia.

Monte Carlo and Monaco (they kind of blend together) are compact and easy to walk around. Stay for a few days and just wander the narrow streets and quiet squares. Monaco’s old town up on a bluff overlooking the harbor includes the palace and plenty of charming little streets to get lost in.

Carol Cram overlooking an interior harbor near the old town in Monaco
Overlooking an interior harbor near the old town in Monaco

A highlight for us was the car museum, especially for Gregg who is a racing car enthusiast. While in Monte Carlo, he completed this piece as a homage to the Monaco Grand Prix.

Colorful abstract drawing called Straightaway by Gregg Simpson
Straightaway by Gregg Simpson

Getting to Monte Carlo

The area around Monaco is very, very tight. If you don’t have to drive, take the train from Nice. If you’re driving, get to your hotel, park the car, and then walk. On one of our days in Monte Carlo, we caught the train to Menton to visit friends, a much easier way to travel. The traffic on the Côte d’Azur is pretty much always dreadful.

Map showing the location of Monte Carlo and Monaco
Map showing the location of Monte Carlo and Monaco

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Monte Carlo

We stayed in the fabulous Port Palace Hotel right on the harbor. It was a splurge but worth every penny. The staff were friendly and the room huge, with a view over the boats. Here are other options.



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#15: Palais Idéal, Hauterives

In 1879, a postman named Ferdinand Cheval picked up a stone while on his rounds and over the next 33 years built a fantasy structure that can only be described as surreal. In fact, the surrealists led by André Breton consider postman Cheval’s Palais Idéal as the precursor of surrealistic architecture. Breton, along with other artists, including Max Ernst and Léonara Carington, visited and wrote about the Palais Idéal several times.

Palais Ideal Source: Wikipedia
Palais Idéal – Source: Wikipedia

The Palais Idéal is also considered a premier example of Naïve art. Ferdinand Cheval, who had no training in art or architecture, is recognized as a pioneer of Naïve art.

The Palais Idéal may be off the beaten track for many tourists, but it is well known to French people. In fact, the day we visited, I wouldn’t be surprised if we were the only English speakers there. It was mobbed by French families eagerly enjoying the quirky melange of cement and rock.

What is Special about Palais Idéal as a Place to Visit in France?

The Palais Idéal is quite simply remarkable. It looks like a cross between Angkor Wat and a strangely ornate wedding cake. You really have to see it and wander through its passageways to admire the incredible details.

You are awestruck by Cheval’s dedication and imagination. If you’re feeling at all cynical about the power of one person’s commitment to fulfilling a dream, visit the Palais Idéal and have your faith in human ingenuity restored.

Getting to Palais Idéal

The Palais Idéal is located about an hour south of Lyon in the village of Hauterives in the Drôme Department of southeast France. Combine a trip to Palais Idéal with a drive through this beautiful area west of the Alps.

Map showing the location of the Palais Ideal
Map showing the location of the Palais Idéal in the Drôme Department of southeast France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Palais Idéal

Check the Palais Idéal website for detailed information about ticket prices and location.

Here are accommodation options in the area of Hauterives.



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#16: Strasbourg

The city of Strasbourg is not really off the beaten track, but I include it because for us it was a surprise. The Petite France area is utterly charming, with its waterside cafés and Alsatian architecture.

As the chief city of Alsace and a major business center, Strasbourg is also the seat of a number of the European Parliament, the Council of Europe, and the European Court of Human Rights. It’s a hopping place.

What is Special about Strasbourg as a Place to Visit in France?

Strasbourg is the center of Alsatian culture–a unique combination of French and German reflecting a 2000-year history during which custody of Strasbourg frequently changed. The city is also drop-dead gorgeous, with its maze of narrow streets and a melange of architectural styles, including the distinctive half-timbered houses, lining the canals in the Petite France area.

Strasbourg la Petite France in Alsace half timbered houses
Half-timbered houses in Strasbourg, la Petite France in Alsace

The center of Strasbourg is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Another great attraction of Strasbourg is, predictably, the food! Alsatian cuisine is a unique and hearty combination of French and German, all accompanied with glasses of wine. Strasbourg is close to the Alsatian Wine Trail known for producing Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, and Riesling wines.

Also don’t miss Strasbourg Cathedral with its ornate Gothic facade framing a delicately stunning rose window.

Strasbourg Cathedral at sunrise, France
Strasbourg Cathedral at sunrise

Getting to Strasbourg

If you’re coming from or going to Germany, stop a day or two in Strasbourg.

Map showing the location of Strasbourg, France
Map showing the location of Strasbourg in Alsace in northeast France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Strasbourg

Strasbourg’s status as the location for the European Parliament means that it’s very well served by transportation, including an international airport and a TGV train that whisks you to Paris in under two hours.

Here are accommodation options.



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#17: Fontainebleau Forest

The Forêt de Fontainebleau is an easy day trip from Paris, but do yourself a favor and settle in for at least one or two nights. That way, you’ll have time to explore both the Château of Fontainebleau and the vast forest, once the hunting grounds of the kings of France and the second-largest national forest in France.

View on the palace of Fontainebleau with White Horse court
View of the palace of Fontainebleau with White Horse Court

Kilometers of trails criss-cross the forest, taking you past sunlit glades and strange rock formations, many resembling animals, such as elephants, tortoises, and crocodiles.

What is Special about Fontainebleau Forest as a Place to Visit in France?

The Forêt de Fontainebleau has been a mecca for artists since the 19th century when it was the headquarters for the Barbizon group of painters. Gregg was in good company when he created his own series of paintings inspired by the strangely evocative forest. Here are two of his large canvases completed after our first visit to Fontainebleau.

Large landscape painting called The Clearing by Gregg Simpson
66The Clearing by Gregg Simpson
Large landscape painting called Impressions of the Fontainebleau Forest  by Gregg Simpson
Impressions of the Fontainebleau Forest by Gregg Simpson

In addition to spending time in the forest, you can’t miss the Palace at Fontainebleau. We were fortunate to visit it just after it opened in the morning and so were the first people to walk through its sumptuous rooms.

I enjoyed our visit to the palace much more than Versailles, which is overcrowded and overpriced. I’m not suggesting you give Versailles a miss—it’s definitely worth seeing. However, if you have time for only one day trip from Paris and you want to see a royal palace, consider the much less touristy, more authentic-feeling Palais de Fontainebleau.

Getting to Fontainebleau Forest

The last time we visited Fontainebleau, we took a train from the Gare de Lyon train station in Paris and then picked up our rental car near the train station at our destination. It’s much less stressful to pick up a rental car in a small town like Fontainebleau than in the middle of Paris (I don’t recommend doing that!).

After spending a day tootling around the forest, we headed south to begin our trip around France.

Allow forty minutes to take the train or drive from Paris to Fontainebleau.

Map showing the loation of Fontainebleau south of Paris
Map showing the location of Fontainebleau south of Paris

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Fontainebleau Forest

The charming town of Fontainebleau contains several of the type of small hotels we favor when traveling in France. Check options on the map below.



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France Guides

Click the image below to discover lots more things to see and do in wonderful France.

Conclusion

Whew! That’s a lot of France! I hope you’ve discovered some new places to visit and re-acquainted yourself with some old favorites.

One of the many things I love about France is how incredibly diverse it is–from the rugged pink granite cliffs in Brittany to the pastoral, château-studded Loire Valley and south through the history-steeped Dordogne, the wild and wonderful chasms of the Cevennes and Ardeche, the rugged beauty of Provence and then back north alongside the Alps to the Germanic flavor of the Alsace, and finally to get royal in Fontainebleau.

I could easily write a post about another 17 awesome places, but these will do for now!

Have you visited any of the places featured in this post? Let other artsy travelers know about your experiences in the comments below.

Here are some more posts to read next to help you plan and enjoy your time in France:

Seven Super Single-Artist Museums in Europe You Should Visit

One of the great joys of traveling in Europe as an Artsy Traveler is discovering amazing single-artist museums.

By single-artist museum, I mean a museum established to showcase the art of a specific artist, even if the museum also hosts exhibitions by other artists.

Europe is awash with great single-artist museums, many of which I’ve written about in other posts on Artsy Traveler, most notably Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris.

This post recommends lesser known single-artist museums in Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, and Spain. I’ve visited all of them, with the exception of the Sorolla Museum in Madrid. Information about this luscious, single-artist museum comes from guest poster Liz Reding who visited the Sorolla Museum in March of 2020, just days before the pandemic shut down Europe.

Map of Europe Showing Museum Locations

The number assigned to each museum in this post corresponds to the number on the map below. For example #1, the Ernst Fuchs Museum is in Vienna (#1 on the map below).

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

#1 Ernst Fuchs Museum in Vienna, Austria

Start in Austria with one of Europe’s weirdest single-artist museums!

If you’re in the mood for quirky and wonderful, then make your way to the Ernst Fuchs Museum in the Wien Hütteldorf, the 14th district of Vienna. You can drive there from central Vienna in about 25 minutes or hop on a bus.

Ernst Fuchs Museum near Vienna, Austria. Photo from the Ernst Fuchs Museum Website.
Exterior of the stunning Ernst Fuch Museum near Vienna.
Photo Credit: Ernst Fuchs Museum Website

Who is Ernst Fuchs?

Ernst Fuchs (1930-2015) was an extraordinarily prolific artist who created works infused with eroticism and myth. In the sixties, Fuchs became a style icon and designed architecture, furniture, tapestries, and jewelry. He was a founder of the Vienna School of Fantastic Realism and was celebrated internationally.

History of the Ernst Fuchs Museum

Fuchs’s work is displayed in the fabulously restored Wagner House, designed and built in 1888 as a summer house by the renowned Jugendstil architect Otto Wagner. The place is, quite simply, spectacular. Inspired by Palladio, Wagner designed the house in the style of a Roman villa.

Back in the day, the design attracted international attention. The press wrote: “A strange allure is evoked by this peculiar villa . . .Completely deviating from the usual appearance of similar buildings, the frontal view of the house that sits on the flank of a hill only shows a large open hall between two side wings.”

Fuchs bought the villa in 1972 when it was derelict and scheduled for demolition. In two years, he restored the house to its original architectural glory and for many years used the house as his private studio. In 1988, the centenary of the building of the original villa, the Ernst Fuchs Museum opened.

Work of Ernst Fuchs

Fuchs’s work combines the fantastic with elements of the visionary and spiritual, all infused with a healthy dollop of sixties psychedelic and a lot of naked bodies.

You’ll find eroticism everywhere. Even if you’re not a big fan of the work, you will appreciate its complexity and awesome technique. You come away with a new appreciation for the heights made possible by the human imagination.

Although I wasn’t hugely taken by the overly florid and fantastical artworks, I loved the unique architecture, whimsical design elements, gorgeous mosaics, and above all, stunning stained-glass windows.

Images of Ernst Fuchs Museum

I highly recommend a visit to this unique museum that also includes beautifully landscaped gardens. Here are photographs of some of the rooms in the Ernst Fuchs Museum. Source: Ernst Fuchs official website.

Adolf Boehm Salon in the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Adolf Boehm Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Grand Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Grand Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Roman Bath at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Roman Bath at the Ernst Fuchs Museum

Explore Ernst Fuchs Museum in 3D

This fantastic website allows you to walk through the museum and use your mouse to zoom in on every painting and design element. It’s one of the best virtual tours I’ve come across.

Visitor Information

The Ernst Fuchs Museum is located at Hüttelbergstraße 26, 1140 Wien and is from from Tuesday through Sunday from 10 am to 4 pm. Tickets cost €11 for adults and €6 for students and seniors or €8 with the Wiencard. For more information, see the Ernst Fuchs Museum website.

#2: Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France

Located in the charming town of Albi in southwest France, the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is a total treat. If you’re in the area, put it on your list and leave yourself lots of time to tour the extensive collections.

Who is Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec?

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) was a leading French artist famous for capturing the personalities of his subjects in loose, free-flowing lines. Born into a wealthy family in Albi, Toulouse-Lautrec’s interest in art flourished following accidents to his legs in his childhood that incapacitated him and resulted in permanent damage.

In the mid-1880s in Paris, Toulouse-Lautrec began his lifelong association with the bohemian life of the cafés, cabarets, entertainers, and artists in Montmartre.

Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec

The Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is housed in the Bishop’s Palace (Palais de la Berbie) next door to Albi Cathedral (also worth a visit). The original palace was built in the 13th-century as a fortress to house the bishops of Albi. The original medieval architecture has been maintained with high, thick walls, and a central courtyard.

Palais de la Berbie in Albi, France (Albi Cathedral to the left)
Palais de la Berbie in Albi, France (Albi Cathedral to the left)

From the Renaissance to the 18th century, the fortress was transformed into a pleasure palace that included sumptuous state rooms and landscaped formal gardens which you can still visit today.

Overlooking the gardens at the Palais de la Berbie that houses the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France
Overlooking the gardens at the Palais de la Berbie that houses the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France

When we visited the museum soon after it opened in the morning, we practically had the place to ourselves.

And it’s huge! Room after room feature the world’s largest public collection of Lautrec’s paintings, lithographs, drawings, and posters. The collection is laid out in chronological order, starting with Toulouse-Lautrec’s early work and leading to the massive posters for which he is most famous.

In addition to exhibiting Toulouse-Lautrec’s work, the museum includes a large collection of art from the early 20th century. You’ll also view a fine collection of art from earlier periods, displayed in the sumptuously restored palace rooms.

A visit to the museum includes access to the palace’s classical gardens and panoramic views over the Tarn River.

View over the Tarne River in Albi, France
View over the Tarn River in Albi, France

Work of Toulouse-Lautrec

I was fascinated with the looseness of Toulouse-Lautrec’s work. He uses freely handled lines and colors to convey the idea of movement and to infuse his subjects with personality. You can imagine meeting the same people on the streets of Paris today.

Here are two of the works you’ll see in the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec. Both pictures are taken from the website of the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec.

Painting called L'anglaise du star au havre" by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
L’anglaise du star au havre” (1899) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Painting called "Femme qui tire son bras" by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Femme qui tire son bras” (1894) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec

You’ll likely recognize several of the posters that were used to advertise the Moulin Rouge and other popular entertainment venues in late-19th-century Paris.

Moulin Rouge: La Goulue (1981) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Moulin Rouge: La Goulue (1981) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Ambassadeurs – Aristide Bruant (1892) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Ambassadeurs – Aristide Bruant (1892) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia

Visitor Information

Tickets for adults cost €10 and €5 for students. The address for the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is Palais de la Berbie, Place Sainte-Cécile. Find the cathedral and you’ll find the adjacent palace. Hours vary depending on the time of year, but for most of the year, the museum is open from 10 am to noon and 2 pm to 6 pm. From June 21 to September 30, the museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm.

Both the cathedral and the palace are built from bricks that glow pink in the setting sun. Here’s a shot of the cathedral from across the river where we stayed in a bed-and-breakfast.

Albi Cathedral in the setting sun
Albi Cathedral in the setting sun

#3: Musée National Fernand Léger in Biot, France

If you’re staying in the Côte d’Azur, put a visit to this museum on your list of must-sees. As the only museum in the world dedicated to the work of Fernand Léger, this purpose-built museum is truly delightful. You’ll see a fabulous collection of Léger’s paintings, sculptures, drawings, ceramics, and tapestries.

Musée National Fernand Léger
Musée National Fernand Léger Photo Credit: Hans G. Oberlack, Creative Commons

Who is Fernand Léger?

Fernand Léger (1881-1955) was a French painter, sculptor, and filmmaker known for his bright and colorful work–a personal form of cubism known as “tubism”. He often depicted industrial subjects and objects of the consumer age–an art ‘first’–and is considered the forerunner of the pop art movement.

Léger was born in Argentan in Normandy. I recently read that his childhood home is being turned into a museum. That will definitely be on our itinerary the next time we travel in northern France. Check out the article.

Photograph of artist Fernand Léger
Source: Wikipedia
Fernand Léger
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Musée National Fernand Léger

In 1955, not long before his death, Léger purchased a villa on the property upon which the museum now stands. Supervised by his widow, construction of the museum began in 1957 with the museum opening to great fanfare in 1960.

The museum exhibits Léger’s work in chronological order, beginning with his realist early work and progressing to his “tubism” period prior to World War I with its emphasis on cylindrical forms and then to his “mechanical period” that was heavily influenced by his war experiences. The collection includes over 450 pieces.

In addition to the collection inside the museum, you’ll want to linger awhile on the grounds to enjoy Léger’s massive sculptures and especially to view the huge murals that cover the outside of the museum.

Sculpture on the grounds of the Musée National Fernand Léger
Source: Abxhay - Creative Commons
Sculpture on the grounds of the Musée National Fernand Léger
Source: Abxhay – Creative Commons

If you’re traveling with children, the Léger Museum is an excellent stop.

We first visited the museum when Julia was nine years old. She loved it! I think her appreciation for modern art stems partially from that visit. Mind you, growing up surrounded by her dad’s work also likely played a role!

Work of Fernand Léger

Léger’s work is bright, bold, and beautiful. It’s impossible, I think, to tour this museum and not enjoy yourself. The more you study his work, the more you appreciate it.

Here are two works by Léger. Regrettably, I did not take pictures when I visited the museum, so these photos are from the WikiArt website.

"Contrast of Forms" by Fernand Léger (1918)
Source: WikiArt
“Contrast of Forms” (1918) by Fernand Léger
Source: WikiArt

"The Man with the Cane" (1920) Source: WikiArt
“The Man with the Cane” (1920) by Fernand Léger
Source: WikiArt

Visitor Information

Visit the museum every day except Tuesdays, December 25, January 1, and May 1. From November to April, the museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm, and May to October from 10 am to 6 pm. Tickets cost €7.50. Admission is free on the first Sunday of the month. The museum is located at Chemin du Val de Pome, very close to Biot, a small village in the hills above the Côte d’Azur. If you’re traveling by car, you will find it easily. While you’re in the area, don’t miss several other wonderful museums showcasing the work of other 20th-century modern artists.

Two other single-artist museums—the Marc Chagall National Museum in Nice and the Musée National Pablo Picasso in Vallauris— are, like the Léger Museum, part of the network of French National museums in the Alpes-Maritimes department dedicated to 20th-century artists.

#4: Fondation Vasarely in Aix-en-Provence, France

On the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence (one of my favorite towns in the south of France), you’ll find the impressive and undervisited Fondation Vasarely. The museum showcases the massive artworks of Victor Vasarely, a Hungarian-French artist (1906-1997) considered the grandfather and leader of the op art movement.

Fernand Léger
Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France

Who is Victor Vasarely?

Victor Vasarely (1906-1997) was a French-Hungarian artist who used colorful geometric shapes to create compelling 3D optical illusions.

After settling in Paris in 1930, Vasarely experimented with Surrealism and Abstract Expressionism in the 1940s, then developed his hallmark checkerboard paintings.

Victor Vasarely
Source: Wikipedia
Victor Vasarely
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Fondation Vasarely

The Fondation Vasarely was opened in 1976 by French president Georges Pompidou.

Each of the seven hexagonal galleries contains six monumental works of art. On our most recent trip there in 2018, some of the artworks were in need of restoration, which is a shame.

Help support the continuation of this stunning museum by paying it a visit when you’re in the area.

Visiting here is like walking through posters from the swinging sixties, which is hardly surprising since the 3D optical illusions that characterize Vasarely’s work have graced the dorm rooms of students for decades.

Work of Victor Vasarely

Here are some of the massive pieces you’ll see at the Fondation Vasarely.

Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - blues and greens
Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - reds and multi-colors
Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - blues and greens

Visitor Information

Located at 1, Avenue Marcel Pagnol on the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence, the distinctive museum is easy to find. Admission is €9 for adults. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm.

#5: Max Ernst Museum near Cologne, Germany

The stylish Max Ernst Museum is located in Brühl, about a twenty-minute drive from Cologne on the way to Bonn. For Gregg, a visit there on a recent trip to the area was akin to a pilgrimage. Gregg has been a fan of surrealist Max Ernst for decades—pretty much since he first became an artist himself.

Gregg Simpson outside the Max Ernst Museum in Brühl near Cologne, Germany
Gregg outside the Max Ernst Museum in Brühl near Cologne, Germany

Who is Max Ernst?

Max Ernst (1891-1976) was born in Germany and became a naturalised American in 1948 and a French citizen in 1958. He was a painter, sculptor, graphic artist, collagist, and poet, a pioneer of the Dada movement, and a member of the surrealist group.

Towards the end of his life, Max Ernst, along with his wife, noted painter Dorothea Tanning, moved to the charming village of Seillans in the Var region of Provence. We spent two weeks in Seillans in July 2019 where Gregg had an exhibition in a space close to where Ernst and Tanning lived.

Max Ernst
Photo: Wikipedia
Max Ernst
Photo: Wikipedia

History of the Max Ernst Museum

The museum features a marvelous collection of Ernst’s work displayed in a thoughtfully renovated space. A modern glass pavilion is integrated into the horseshoe floor plan of the late-classicist Brühler Pavillon, a popular ballroom and social venue that was erected in 1844 and that Max Ernst himself visited in his youth.

Stylishly renovated Max Ernst Museum in Brühl, Germany
Stylishly renovated Max Ernst Museum in Brühl, Germany
Photo: Max Ernst Museum Website

You’ll find an extensive collection of paintings, drawings, frottages, collages, and sculptures spanning over 70 years of Ernst’s influential career, including his time in Brühl and Bonn, his Dadaist activities in the Rhineland, his contributions to the Surrealist movement in France, his exile in the United States during WWII, and finally his return to Europe in 1953.

I especially loved the sculptures on the grounds of the museum.

Work of Max Ernst

Max Ernst was a fabulously prolific artist with work that is detailed and complex and wholly distinctive. Here’s a selection of some of my favorite works by Max Ernst. Pictures are all from the max-ernst.com website.

"Attirement of the Bride" (1940) by Max Ernst
Attirement of the Bride” (1940) by Max Ernst
"Ubu Imperator" (1923) by Max Ernst
Ubu Imperator” (1923) by Max Ernst
"The Triumph of Surrealism" (1973) by Max Ernst
The Triumph of Surrealism” (1973) by Max Ernst

Visitor Information

The museum is located at Comesstraße 42 / Max-Ernst-Allee 1, 50321 Brühl and is open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. At present (May, 2020), admission to the museum is free. For current information, check the museum website.

#6: René Magritte Museum in Brussels, Belgium

The full name of the museum is the René Magritte Museum – Museum of Abstract Art, a double museum dedicated to Surrealism and Abstraction. Now that’s a double bill I can get behind.

On a recent short visit to Brussels, we made a beeline for the Magritte Museum and were not disappointed. As one of the most iconic figures in the surrealist movement, René Magritte deserves his own museum, and this one is first rate.

Who is René Magritte?

René Magritte (1898-1967) was a Belgian artist and probably one of the best-known surrealists after Salvador Dali. Back in the 1970s, I had a poster of his iconic painting of a massive dove called “The Large Family” on the wall of my student dorm–and I was not the only one.

"The Large Family" by Rene Magritte
Photo Credit: www.renemagritte.org
“The Large Family” by Rene Magritte
Photo Credit: www.renemagritte.org

In the 1920s, Magritte moved to Paris from Belgium and became involved with André Breton and the Surrealist group, of which he was a leading member. He exhibited in 1929 with several of the leading surrealists of the time, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Arp, de Chirico, Max Ernst, Joan Miró, Picabia, Picasso, and Yves Tanguy.

In 1930, Magritte returned to Brussels and continued painting there until his death. His imagery has heavily influenced pop, minimalist, and conceptual art.

René Magritte Photo: www.renemagritte.org

René Magritte Photo: www.renemagritte.org

History of the René Magritte Museum

The museum is relatively new, opened in 1999 shortly after Magritte’s one hundredth birthday. It’s built inside a house that Magritte lived in with his wife and includes an adjoining building that was renovated to showcase 250 masterpieces of Belgian abstract art.

You’ll tour the reconstruction of Magritte’s apartment on the ground floor and then view artworks from a collection that includes over 400 archive documents, photos, and objects, as well as 30 original works. You won’t see some of his most famous works, but you will get a good overview of Magritte’s development.

We loved it!

Work of René Magritte

Magritte’s work is endlessly fascinating–both for its meticulous technique and for its subject matter. Bowler hats, floating rocks, figures that are half animal/half people, and strange juxtapositions of everyday logic. When you tour the museum, you never know what you’re going to see around the next dimly lit corner.

Take your time and enjoy! Here are some of Magritte’s the works from the collection. Photos are all from the Magritte Museum pages on the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium website (Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique)

L'empire des lumières by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
L’empire des lumières by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
Le Domaine d'Arnheim (1962) by  René Magritte - Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
Le Domaine d’Arnheim (1962) by  René Magritte – Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
La magie noire (1945) by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
La magie noire (1945) by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
Golconde (1953) by René Magritte - Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
Golconde (1953) by René Magritte – Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography

Visitor Information

Located at Place Royale, Koningsplein 1 in Brussels, admission to the museum is €10 for adults, €8 for seniors, and €3 for students. Opening hours are Monday to Friday from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm and weekends from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm. Check the website for up-to-date information.

#7: Museo Sorolla in Madrid by Guest Poster Liz Reding

This description of the Sorolla Museum is written by guest poster Liz Reding. She and her husband visited in March, 2020, days before the museum closed in response to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Liz Reding: My husband and I have been admirers of the paintings of Joaquín Sorolla for many years, so on our recent trip to Madrid, a visit to the Museo Sorolla was top of our list.

Who is Joaquín Sorolla?

Born in Valencia, Spain, Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida (1863-1923) received his art education in Madrid, Rome, and Paris and was a contemporary of Picasso, Matisse, John Singer Sargent, and Andreas Zorn. He and his wife, Clotilde, had three children.

He painted portraits, landscapes, and monumental works depicting social and historical themes.

Joaquín Sorolla
Photo: Wikipedia
Joaquín Sorolla
Photo: Wikipedia

History of the Museo Sorolla

The Museo Sorolla is located in the home that Sorolla shared with his family, and is considered one of the best-preserved artist houses in Europe. The collection of more than 1,200 pieces is displayed along with the house’s original furniture and objects.

The house is surrounded by a delightful garden, a real oasis from the rumble of the cars and buses just outside the gate. 

Garden at the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding
Garden at the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding

By urban standards, this museum is relatively small, but packed with dozens of gorgeous paintings, as well as sculptures, sketches, photographs, water colors, and writings.

One noteworthy feature of this museum is that all the works are expertly hung and well lit. Most of the viewing rooms have deep colors that enhance the paintings with light-diffusing devices, such as a window shade or ceiling tapestry. What a pleasure!

Interior of the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding
Interior of the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding

Work of Joaquín Sorolla

Sorolla’s wife and children are featured in a significant number of Sorolla’s paintings, and his love and admiration for them clearly shows. In addition, Sorolla painted many portraits of important people, including U. S. President Taft, and is known for his masterful handling of light, as evidenced by his many beach-scene paintings.

Here are two of Sorolla’s works exhibited at the Museo Sorolla.

Painting by Joaquín Sorolla at the Museo Sorolla, Madrid
Photo credit: Liz Reding
Painting by Joaquín Sorolla at the Museo Sorolla, Madrid
Photo credit: Liz Reding

Visitor Information

Located at Paseo General Martínez Campos, 37, the Museo Sorolla is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9:30 am to 8:00 pm and on Sundays and holidays from 10:00 am to 3:00 pm. Tickets cost €3.

Other Single-Artist Museums in Europe

I wish I could say that I’ve visited all the single-artist museums that I’d like to in Europe, but not yet!

Here are just some of the museums I look forward to visiting in the next few years. If you’ve been to any of them, add a comment to let other Artsy Travelers know what you think!

Fondation Jean Dubuffet

Located in Périgny-sur-Yerres in the department of Val-de-Marne, the Dubuffet Foundation includes paintings and massive outdoor sculptures by Jean Dubuffet. Many years ago, we went there only to find it closed, but we did manage to peek through the fence! It looked amazing!

Zentrum Paul Klee in Bern, Switzerland

I’m a big fan of the work of Paul Klee and have his museum on my list for the next time we drive through Switzerland. Check the website for details.

Franz Marc Museum in Kochel, Germany

A modern extension has extended the exhibition space of this beautifully-situated museum, It overlooks a lake near the little town of Kochel in Bavaria, about an hour west of Munich. Franz Marc’s colorful work makes me smile. Check the website for details.

Conclusion

Have you visited any of the museums listed in this post? If so, let Artsy Traveler readers know what you think.

To keep reading about art in Europe, check out these posts:

Exploring Burgos and León along the Camino of Santiago

Burgos and León are both fascinating cities located along the Camino of Santiago in northern Spain.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie spent time in Burgos and León during her journey along the Camino of Santiago.

In this post, Elizabeth shares what to see and do in two of northern Spain’s most beautiful—and often under-visited—cities.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago

Orientation to Burgos & Leon

The map below includes the places mentioned in this post. Click a number to find out more information.

Exploring Burgos

Burgos is the provincial capital of Castilla y León in northern Spain. Its location on the Camino de Santiago route makes it a natural stopping point for pilgrims traveling the Way. This gorgeous medieval city is well worth a day or two of any traveler’s time.

If you’re traveling in northern Spain, put Burgos on your itinerary. Major sights include:

  • One of Spain’s most magnificent cathedrals
  • A castle
  • An atmospheric old city
  • Excellent museums, including the world-class Museo de Evolución Humana
  • The wonderfully photogenic Arco de Santa Maria
  • Wonderful food.

Museo de Evolución Humana

The Museo de Evolución Humana (#1) (Museum of Human Evolution) is simply terrific and a highlight of our travels in northern Spain. The modern glass construction with high open spaces houses three floors of authentic and reproduction artifacts, including bones, skulls, animal jaws, tools, and portable art.

Adults and kids alike enjoy the interactive displays and quizzes, the videoclips of recent discoveries, the various re-enactments and interpretations of early humans’ social behaviours, and marvellous representations of various members of Australopithecus and Homo.

The museum also includes exhibits on Atapuerca, the archaeological site north of Burgos. Here, Europe’s oldest human fossil remains were discovered in 2007. We walked past Atapuerca on our way into Burgos.

Menhirs in a field near Atapeurca in northern Spain
Standing stones near Atapuerca in the Province of Burgos and near the Way

Lucky for us, the museum was almost empty. We were able to spend as much time as we liked in front of the various displays and interactive activities.

Statue of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar

On your way from the museum back to the central plaza in Burgos, you pass a statue of hometown boy Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, better known as El Cid, who was born in Burgos in 1043 and died in 1099.

Statue of El Cid mounted on horseback with sword in Burgos

El Cid was a Castilian knight and warlord who became a Spanish folk hero and national icon as a result of his service in the armies of both Christian and Muslim rulers, and his temporary conquest of Valencia. El Cid is the protagonist in the most significant medieval Spanish epic poem, El Cantar de Mio Cid.

The Cathedral of Burgos

The 13th-century Cathedral of Burgos (#2)—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—is massive, incorporating the church itself, the cloisters, the Bishop’s Palace, and part of the original city walls. The interior has three naves separated by rows of huge columns and flanked by fifteen side chapels containing altars, tombs, relics, and precious artifacts. 

View of Burgos Cathedral in Burgos, Spain
Burgos Cathedral is one of the most important cathedrals in Spain.

Everywhere you look, whether on the facades or inside the cathedral, you’ll see decoration or carving. The term “el horror del vacío” (“the horror of empty space”) was never so applicable as in the interior of Burgos Cathedral.

The magnificent star-vaulted dome and the spectacular rose windows are awe-inspiring. Also amazing are the gold plating and ornate carvings on the retablo of the high altar that depicts the life of the Virgin Mary.

Altar in the Cathedral of Burgos
Altar in the Cathedral of Burgos

Saints, angels, the nobility, important clergy, and the monarchs appear below the deities—a reminder of God’s absolute power.

One of the highlights in the cathedral is a portrait of Mary Magdalene by Leonardo da Vinci (~1515 ). We also saw one of El Cid’s trunks and a small wooden door with a carved face into whose mouth pilgrims inserted small coins.

If you go, rent the audio guide to learn about the art and architecture. The Cathedral of Burgos ranks alongside the likes of Westminster Abbey, Notre Dame in Paris, and Milan Cathedral—but without the crowds.

Burgos Castle

Include a visit to Burgos Castle (#3), with its original structure and fortifications dating to the 9th century. The small museum is interesting, but the real attraction is the spectacular view over the city of Burgos.

Arco de Santa Maria

The Arco de Santa Maria (#4) is one of the twelve medieval doors that led into the medieval city of Burgos. Rebuilt by Charles V in the 16th century, the structure is worth a stop to admire the carvings on the facade. You can go inside to view special exhibitions and a small museum. At night, the Arco de Santa Maria is beautifully illuminated.

View of the Arco de Santa Maria, an ornately carved wall in Burgos, Spain
Arco de Santa Maria in Burgos

Tours in Burgos

Here are some options for tours in Burgos through GetYourGuide:

Powered by GetYourGuide

León

León is a delightful small city that is a bit off the beaten path but worth a visit for its magnificent cathedral, beautiful old town, and the chance to stay in Parador de León, Hostal de San Marcos, Spain’s top parador (see description below).

We stayed two nights in León which, like Burgos, is situated on the Camino. In fact, the Camino crosses the large plaza in front of the parador. The distinctive concha design symbolizing the Camino is everywhere in León, including on the facades of the buildings.

Historic Center of León

The historic centre of León is utterly charming, with narrow streets and very old and historic buildings. Some of the architecture incorporates the city walls of Roman times. You’ll find plenty of small and large plazas lined with outdoor cafés and interesting shops.

Take time to wander around the town, even occasionally getting lost while appreciating the beauty of this wonderfully walkable city.

León Cathedral

Often dubbed La Casa de la Luz (House of Light), the 13th-century Catedral Santa María de León (#5) is magnificent. Soaring sandstone towers glow in the evening light, and the interior is breathtaking, with three rose windows instead of the usual one.

View of the Cathedral of Leon in Spain
Cathedral of León in Spain

The cathedral was built on the site of the 2nd-century Roman baths, which were converted to a royal palace around the year 1000. A masterpiece of Gothic architecture, the cathedral consists of two towers with a large portal between them, and flying buttresses crusted with gargoyles on the exterior walls.

León is often referred to as the city of stained glass, and no wonder. Windows dating from the 13th to the 15th century contain over 1,800 square meters of stained glass. Also inside the cathedral are hundreds of pieces of sacred art, including examples from Romanesque to Neoclassical times.

León’s cathedral is one of the most important along the Way.

Basilica of San Isidro

Don’t miss the smaller but equally enchanting Basilica of San Isidro (#6). Located on the site of an ancient Roman temple, the church’s Christian roots extend to the early 10th century when a monastery for Saint John the Baptist was erected on the grounds.

Basilica of San Isidro, León - Spain
Basilica of San Isidro, León – Spain

Built in the Romanesque style, the basilica also has elements of both Gothic and Islamic architecture. Check out the 12th-century painted murals in the funeral chapel of the kings of León. The exceptionally well-preserved murals present New Testament subjects as well as scenes of contemporary rural life.

Stay at the Parador de León

The Parador de León (#7) is one of the most luxurious places I’ve ever stayed. Sponsored by the Spanish government, the parador system of lodgings includes refurbished historic buildings, such as castles, monasteries, and royal residences. The system also includes some purpose-built, modern hotels.

Parador San Marcos in  León
Parador San Marcos in León

For five-star luxury, we paid about €170 each for two nights—a serious bargain, considering the service and surroundings.

King Ferdinand founded the Parador de León, Hostal de San Marcos in the early 16th century as a church and hospital for knights of the Order of Saint James. Some of the original staircase has been preserved, as have the curved ceilings, chandeliers, and cloister windows. Fabulous portraits and Renaissance artifacts and armour adorn the lobby and corridors.

Our room—which we accessed with a large skeleton key—was located in one of the converted monks’ cells in the cloister. The room was beautifully appointed with 1000-count monogrammed sheets, slippers, and luxury toiletries.

Museum at the Parador

Visit the church and museum attached to the parador. The original buildings were erected on the remains of a Roman fortress, and the church dates from the mid-12th century. Many sarcophagi and Roman stelae from ancient times dot the lovely cloister gardens. Sadly, parts of the church grounds have a darker past when they served as a prison for suspected or accused fighters in the Spanish Civil War.  

Tours in León

Here are some options for tours in León through Tiqets.com:

Conclusion

Even if you’re not walking the Camino, put Burgos and León on your itinerary in northern Spain. For more information about places to visit in northern Spain, including both Santiago de Compostela and Bilbao, see Exploring Northern Spain and Basque Country.

For more about Elizabeth’s journey along the Camino read her Top Tips for Walking the Camino of Santiago and excerpts from her journal in A Camino Journal: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela.

Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris

Choosing the nine best small museums in Paris to feature in a post about my fave art museums is like choosing a favorite child. It’s impossible and shouldn’t be attempted! But I’m going to do it anyway in the hope of introducing you to some museums that you’ve not yet visited.

You’ll notice I’ve left the three biggies off my list: the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay and the Centre Pompidou. All three are über must-sees, and you’ll find information about them in this post that matches Parisian sights with bistro dishes from my novel Love Among the Recipes.

But the operative word in this post is small, some may even say obscure! You will find some fairly well-known museums on my list, but you may also find several that you have not heard of, let alone visited.

I’ve organized the museums by arrondissement, starting with the Orangerie in the 1st arrondissement and ending with the Marmottan Museum in the 16th arrondissement. The map belows shows the location of each museum.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

#1: The Orangerie

The Musée de l’Orangerie is not far from the Louvre and overlooks the Jardin des Tuileries. I always enjoy popping into the Orangerie to revisit one of the most compelling exhibitions in Paris.

Here, in two consecutive oval salons, you’ll view the eight large paintings that make up Les Nymphéas by Monet. Lit by natural light from the ceiling and oriented from west to east, the light follows the course of the sun.

Detail from a painting of waterlilies by Claude Monet

Monet helped to design these rooms in which his paintings are displayed. He wanted visitors to immerse themselves in the paintings and find solace in their beauty following the horrors of World War I. Monet certainly knew what he was about. Walking through the two salons of the Orangerie feels like being submersed in a cool, blue, calm oasis. As you can tell, I love this space!

Take a virtual tour of the Orangerie.

Visiting the Orangerie

Go to the Orangerie as early in the day as possible to avoid the crowds. Contemplating these incredible paintings is best done in quiet and solitude.

In the first salon, the four compositions depict the reflections of the sky and vegetation in the water from morning to evening. The colors vary from yellows and pinks to greens. I find the paintings the first salon both cheerful and soothing.

But my favorite is the second salon, where the dominant blues inspire a mood of intense calm. Relax on one of the benches and let the beauty of the pieces wash over you. You’ll almost feel as if you’re actually in nature, rather than simply looking at depictions of nature.

After viewing the water lily paintings, check out the rest of the Orangerie. The permanent collection includes works by most of the greats, including Renoir, Gauguin, Cézanne, and Sisley.

Special Exhibitions at the Orangerie

We’ve seen some beautifully curated special exhibitions at the Orangerie, most recently an exhibition of Spanish impressionists. Consult the website to see what’s on.

The Orangerie is located at the Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde. The closest Métro is Tuileries. Make sure to buy your ticket in advance so you can skip the line-up. The museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm daily except Tuesdays.

#2: Picasso Museum

Situated in the heart of Le Marais, the Musée National Picasso-Paris is home to over 5,000 works in a comprehensive collection that includes paintings, sculptures, and engravings.

Housed in the historic Hôtel Salé, a private mansion at 5 rue de Thorigny, the building has been described as “the grandest, most extraordinary, if not the most extravagant, of the grand Parisian houses of the 17th century”.

You’ll also see sketches, studies, drafts, notebooks, etchings, photographs, films, illustrated books, and other documents that demonstrate Picasso’s creative process.

If you’re a fan of modern art, and Picasso in particular, this beautiful museum will keep you well entertained and informed.

The Picasso Museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 10.30 am to 6 pm and weekends from 9.30 am to 6 pm. The museum is popular, so buy your ticket in advance.

#3: Cluny Museum

If I had to choose my favorite art museum in Paris, I would have to say the Musée de Cluny – Le monde médiéval, known colloquially as the Cluny. I enjoy it more than the three biggies for several reasons.

First, it’s manageable, unlike its larger cousins. You can tour the Cluny in an afternoon and still have energy to enjoy the lively 5th arrondissement. Spend an afternoon pacing the massive galleries at the Louvre and you’ll need an hour relaxing by a fountain in the Tuileries to recover.

Second, the Cluny features room after room of outlandishly awesome objets d’art from the Middle Ages–the historical period I most prefer.

Third, you’ll see the gorgeous Lady and the Unicorn tapestries woven from silk and wool in Paris around 1500. Admiring these six tapestries is worth the price of admission alone.

What to See at the Cluny

Take a seat in the special circular room that houses the tapestries and enjoy decoding how each of the first five tapestries depicts a different sense: taste, touch, smell, hearing, and sight. And what is the meaning of the sixth tapestry titled À mon seul désir? The jury’s still out, but some say the tapestry represents love.

The Lady and the unicorn Desire

The sixth tapestry: À mon seul désir Photo: Wikipedia

In addition to the tapestries, the Cluny offers amazing displays of wooden statues, stained glass, objects made from ivory, stone sculptures, and numerous household objects, furniture, paintings… the list goes on.

On one visit to the Cluny, I happened upon a concert of medieval choral music in the sculpture courtyard. Hearing that music while surrounded by the objects made during the same period was transporting. I love coming upon unexpected performances when I’m traveling in Europe. Keep your eyes peeled (as my Dad used to say). You’re bound to discover all sorts of opportunities to enjoy performances in some of your favorite museums and galleries.

Row of sculptures in the Cluny Museum in Paris, one of the best small museums in Paris
Sculptures in the marvelous Cluny Museum

Check the website to find out if concerts are scheduled when you’re in Paris. In the meantime, you can explore the collections at the Cluny on the museum’s comprehensive website.

The Cluny is located at 28 Rue du Sommerard. The closest Métros are Cluny-La Sorbonne, Saint-Michel, and Odéon.

#4: Zadkine Museum

The Musée Zadkine has been called a “folly” in the middle of Paris. On rue d’Assas in the 6th arrondissement and close to the Luxembourg Gardens and hip Montparnasse, the Zadkine Museum was once the studio of Ossip Zadkine (1890-1967), a sculptor of Russian origin.

The small exterior door leads you into a calm, green space that feels miles away from the bustle of Paris. You’ll find sculptures in a variety of media, including wood, stone, clay, and even bronze, along with graphic works and illustrations, photographs, tapestries, and archival material.

Musée Zadkine - Jardin

Sculpture by Zadkine at the Zadkine Museum. Photo: Wikipedia

Shortly before he died, Zadkine wrote, “But it is in any case very beautiful to end your life with a chisel and mallet in your hands.”

The Musée Zadkine is located at 100 bis Rue d’Assass and is open from 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday. The closest Métros are Notre-Dame des Champs and Vavin.

#5: Quai Branly Museum

Not far from the Eiffel Tower but still in the 7th arrondissement and close to the river, the spectacular Musée du Quai Branly Jacques Chirac is a must-see. I never tire of visiting this museum because there is such an incredible number of things (370,000 apparently) to ponder and enjoy.

The Quai Branly houses a remarkable collection of art and objects from around the globe organized into four geographical areas—Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas.

I love this museum’s attention to detail. Interactive screens set up in alcoves around the museum provide in-depth information about specific exhibits. You could spend weeks here and only scratch the surface.

Exterior of the Quai Branly Museum in Paris

The range and complexity of the objects displayed is a testament to human creativity through the ages. Set aside half a day to explore this incroyable museum.

Special exhibitions are also featured. On one visit, we saw an exhibition of Picasso’s collection of art from around the world, including Africa.

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 7:00 pm (Thursdays until 10:00 pm).

#6: Rodin Museum

The Musée Rodin in the 7th arrondissement is simply gorgeous. Housed in the magnificent Hôtel Biron and surrounded by three hectares of sculpture-studded gardens, the Musée Rodin celebrates the work of one of France’s premier sculptors.

Check out The Thinker perpetually contemplating life in the garden then go inside and marvel at the statue called The Kiss. Ooh la la! Wander through room after chandeliered room of sculptures—some marble, some plaster, some bronze. The sheer volume and range of work is overwhelming.

Rodin Museum in Paris, one of the best small museums in Paris.
Rodin Museum in Paris

The Musée Rodin is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6:30 pm.

#7: Musée Maillol

In a quiet area of the 7th arrondissement, the Musée Maillol is well known by Parisian art lovers for its special exhibitions but is not as well known by visitors. We’ve seen excellent exhibitions at the Maillol, including an collection of paintings by van Gogh and a spectacular display of paintings by Artemisia Gentileschi.

The exhibitions we’ve seen have featured several walls’ worth of information about the paintings—all in French. If you don’t read French, ask if a handout with an English translation is available.

The Musée Maillol was established by Dina Vierny, an artists’ model who became a famous singer, art dealer, collector, museum director, and Aristide Maillol’s muse for the final ten years of his life. The top floors of the Musée Maillol feature many works by Maillol, including monumental sculptures of female nudes. Maillol’s work is amazing and beautifully displayed. You’ll also find works by several 20th-century artists.

The Musée Maillol is open daily from 10:30 am to 6:30 pm when exhibitions are on (Fridays until 8:30 pm).

#8: Gustave Moreau Museum

The Musée National Gustave Moreau in the 9th arrondissement at the foot of Montmartre is quite the revelation. If you’re familiar with the work of the symbolist painter Moreau, you’ll know that you’re in for a treat. The museum occupies the painter’s family home and includes hundreds of paintings and watercolors showcasing the work of a painter many consider the master of French Symbolism.

Some of the paintings are massive and contain so much intricate detail that your eyes get sore just looking at them!

Gustave Moreau Salomé 1876

Salome by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia

Jupiter and Semele - Gustave Moreau

Jupiter and Semele by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia

The museum is open daily, except Tuesdays, from 10 am to 6 pm.

#9: Marmottan Museum

Located in the stylish 16th arrondissement, the Musée Marmottan Monet is one of the loveliest art museums in Paris. Highlights of the collection are the works by the impressionists Claude Monet and Berthe Morisot. In addition, you’ll see a collection from the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and the Second Empire, along with paintings by other impressionists, such as Caillebotte, Degas, Pissarro, Renoir, Sisley, and Rodin.

Berthe Morisot, who painted The Sisters shown above, is one of the artists frequently exhibited at The Marmottan

The Marmottan is a bit of a trek from the Metro (La Muette or Ranelagh) but worth the effort required to get there. It features a great museum shop (I’m a sucker for a good museum shop).

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (last admission: 5.30 pm), with extended hours to 9 pm on Thursdays (last admission: 8.30 pm).

Conclusion

Have you been to any of these art museums in Paris? Do you have other suggestions for artsy travelers? Share your recommendations in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts about art in Paris:

Booming Berlin: Best Bets for the Artsy Traveler

Berlin is an artsy sightseer’s candy store. If you love museums, you’ll love Berlin. It’s worth at least three full days of your sightseeing time. If you have more time, you’ll find lots more to do and see. It’s a big city with a whole lotta history.

We spent a week in Berlin when my husband Gregg Simpson had an exhibition there and didn’t come close to seeing everything we wanted to. Check out Gregg’s paintings at Gregg Simpson Art.

In this post I feature the highlights I recommend in Berlin. To help you plan your time, I’ve grouped the sites in geographical order, moving from western Berlin through the historic core and Museum Island in eastern Berlin to the Kreuzberg neighborhood in south Berlin (where we stayed) and the fantastic Jewish museum.

Orientation to Berlin

The map below includes the places mentioned in this post. Click a number to find out more information.

Map created with Wanderlog, a travel planner on iOS and Android

Getting Around Berlin

Make use of Berlin’s efficient subway system. The city is spread out, and distances between the places you’ll want to see require a lot of walking. Save your legs for touring the museums! For information about transit in Berlin, see the Official Website of Berlin.

Western Berlin

The two major sites we enjoyed in the former West Berlin are the relaxing Tiergarten and the Kulturforum near Potsdamer Platz.

Tiergarten

Chill out in the fabulous Tiergarten (#1), Berlin’s massive central park that stretches from the Brandenburg Gate to the Berlin Zoological Garden. We spent the better part of a day there strolling the pathways and enjoying brunch overlooking a lake. From the Tiergarten, you can’t miss the Victory Column, built in 1864. Climb it to enjoy a panoramic view over Berlin.

Potsdamer Platz and Kulturforum

Check out the modern skyscrapers and shopping malls in Potsdamer Platz (#2), then walk over to the Kulturforum where you’ll find a complex that includes the Gemäldegalerie and the Philharmonie Berlin.

In the complex, you’ll also find the Musical Instruments Museum (Musikinstrumenten Museum) and the Museum of Decorative Arts (Kunstgewerbemuseum (#3)), touted as Berlin’s version of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Head here if you’re a fan of the applied arts. The collection of women’s fashions over the centuries is especially good.

Gemäldegalerie

An impressive number of European masters grace the walls of this wonderful art museum. The sleek, modern building houses works by Rembrandt, Dürer, Brueghel, Rubens, and Vermeer along with Italian masterpieces by Giotto, Botticelli, and Caravaggio. On the Gemäldegalerie (#4) website, take a virtual tour of several of the main galleries.

Allocate a morning to enjoying the collection at the Gemäldegalerie.

Philharmonie Berlin

The magnificent home of the Berlin Philharmonic (Berlin Philharmoniker)(#5) will take your breath away. With its unusual tent-like shape and bright yellow color, the concert hall has been a landmark in Berlin since 1963, well before the fall of the Berlin Wall.

The Berliner Philharmonie concert hall in Berlin, Germany

We scored tickets to Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring performed by the Deutsches Symphonie Orchester Berlin. The orchestra’s concerts are less expensive than concerts featuring the Berlin Philharmonic, and the quality was fantastic. Hearing Stravinsky played in the iconic hall was a special experience.  

Check event listings for the dates you’ll be in Berlin and consider getting tickets to a concert at the Philharmonie Berlin.

If you’re not able to see a performance, try to find time for a guided tour of the Philharmonie Berlin. One-hour tours are offered daily at 1:30 pm except during July and August and several days at Christmas. The tours are conducted in German and English.

Historic Core of Berlin

When you arrive in Berlin, make your first stop the area around the iconic Brandenburg Gate at the entrance to the Tiergarten. An 18th-century neoclassical monument built by Frederick William II, the gate once stood forlornly in no-man’s land between East and West Berlin.

Reichstag

The big-ticket site in Berlin is the Reichstag (#6)(Bundestag), Germany’s historic parliament buildings. Also located in no-man’s land between East and West Berlin throughout the Cold War, the Reichstag was rebuilt in 1999. With its glass dome dominating the skyline, the Bundestag has become a symbol of a unified Germany.

Entrance is free but you’ll need to make a reservation at www.bundestag.de. Be sure to get tickets well in advance or you may be out of luck. You’ll need to show your passport to pass through security.

Brandenburg Gate

Walk through the Brandenburg Gate (#7)—something you couldn’t do until the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. The weight of history hangs heavy over the gate. Stand in front of it and realize that armies from Napoleon to Hitler have marched through its massive archway.

Now it’s a selfie stop.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

Walk into this labyrinth of 2,711 pillars of different sizes. The sobering—and gigantic—memorial (#8) to the six million Jews executed by the Nazis is a center of calm in the middle of bustling Berlin. In the Information Center, a continuously running soundtrack recites the names of known victims.

Regrettably, the memorial attracts more than its share of selfie sticks with people posing against the pillars and even climbing and jumping on them.

Go directly into the memorial to get away from the photography mayhem at the peripheries and to experience the dislocation and fear that inevitably arises when you try to find your way out again.

Unter Den Linden

The Unter Den Linden (#9) is the Champs-Élysées of Berlin. Stroll down it from the Brandenburg Gate and stop to sample a currywurst at one of the many kiosks in the center strip. A currywurst is Berlin street food consisting of a fried pork sausage (Bratwurst) cut into bite-sized chunks and seasoned with curry ketchup. Eat it with French fries. Fortunately, you’ll walk off the calories pretty quickly.

Plate of currywurst--street food in Berlin
Traditional German currywurst, served with chips

I’ve tried currywurst once, and I’m good now. It’s an acquired taste, but when in Berlin…

Ampelmänn Stores in Berlin

At the corner of Unter den Linden and Friedrichstrasse—another main drag—you’ll find the flagship Ampelmänn shop (#10).

This place ranks high on my list of favorite souvenir stores. The entire store is devoted to selling products inspired by the iconic Ampelmännchen pedestrian crossing symbols.

You’ll always know when you’re in a neighborhood that was once part of East Berlin because you’ll see Ampelmänn on the illuminated pedestrian signals. The green striding one tells you to Go, and the red standing one tells you to Stop. Both Ampelmännchen wear jaunty, flat-topped hats.

I don’t know why, but I fell in love with Ampelmänn and even bought a plastic one for my keychain. Berlin has several Ampelmänn shops. Search for Ampelmänn on Google maps and you might find one near your hotel. At the very least, treat yourself to a tea towel!

Museum Island

Keep walking down the Unter den Linden and you’ll eventually arrive at Museum Island, home to five world-class museums.

You could spend days, weeks even, exploring the museums here. Each historic museum building was built under a different Prussian king, with the whole site declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.

I recommend visiting Museum Island over two days. You can’t see all five museums in a day without completely wearing yourself out, so don’t even try!

Neues Museum

Of the five, my favorite is the Neues Museum (#11), where you’ll find the bust of Nefertiti along with several floors of treasures from the prehistoric, Egyptian, and classical antiquities eras. The displays on Floor 3 are awesome. Here you’ll find the artifacts from the Stone Age, Bronze Age, and other cultures of the pre-Roman Iron Age.

All the displays are well described in English. You could spend days in this one museum alone.

Pergamon Museum

The Pergamon Museum (#12) draws the crowds because of its jaw-dropping buildings from ancient Babylonia, Assyria, and the Islamic world. Unfortunately, you won’t see the enormous Pergamon Altar until 2025, but exhibits such as the Ishtar Gate (46 feet tall and 100 feet wide), the grandest of Babylon’s gates built during the time of Nebuchadnezzar, are worth the price of admission.

Alte Nationalgalerie

The Old National Gallery (#13) is the place to see German art, including the work of David Caspar Friedrich which pretty much sums up Romanticism. Check out his craggy mountains, bare-limbed trees, and swirling clouds that celebrate nature in the raw.

The gallery also includes works by French and German Impressionists.

Bode & Alte Museums

These two museums will appeal to connoisseurs of Byzantine art, historic coins, ecclesiastical art (Bode), and other classical antiquities from Etruscan, Greek, and Roman times.

If your time is limited, go to the Neues Museum and the Pergamon Museum on separate days, with one day split with the German History Museum (#14).

The museums on Museum Island are pricey. Consider purchasing the 3-day Museum Pass Berlin for €29 to gain entrance to just about every museum you’ll want to see in Berlin. See below.

Other Museums in the Historic Core

Deutsches Historisches Museum

Not far from Museum Island is this massive museum which presents 2,000+ years of German history. Over 7,000 exhibits take you from the early Middle Ages to the present day.

It’s another exhausting experience so pace yourself!

DDR Museum

I enjoyed this museum which shows what life was like in communist East Germany—the DDR (#15)(Deutsche Demokratische Republik).

Many kitschy items are on display, including the reconstruction of a typical home from the period, complete with drawers and cupboards that you’re encouraged to open and rifle through.

Buy your tickets for this popular museum in advance to avoid long lines.

Spree River Cruise

On the river not far from the DDR Museum and behind Berlin Cathedral, hop onto a Spree River Cruise. For a relaxing hour, you’ll listen to an English audio guide and enjoy a riverside view of amazingly nifty modern architecture in the former West Berlin.

You can get off at the Tiergarten, like we did, for some quality nature time – or stay on the boat until it turns around and returns to the dock.

Buy tickets at the dock or online before you go.

South Berlin

Two museums we enjoyed in this area of Berlin, near where we stayed in Kreuzberg in south Berlin, are the Asisi Panorama of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum.

Checkpoint Charlie

You can’t miss Checkpoint Charlie (#16), with its costumed guards and legions of tourists snapping pictures. In the souvenir shops on both sides of the street, you’ll find Soviet army hats and other kitschy memorabilia of the Cold War. The area is kind of a DDR Disneyland.

Between 1961 and 1989, Checkpoint Charlie, located in the middle of Friedrichstrasse, was one of the few places where people could legally pass between East Berlin and West Berlin. The giant back-to-back photographs of two young soldiers dominate the area.

Facing east, the photograph shows a young Soviet soldier (see below). Facing west, the photograph shows a young American soldier. The disconnect represented by the photograph remains a salutary warning that the Cold War wasn’t that long ago.

Photograph of a young Soviet soldier at Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin
Photo of a young Soviet soldier faces east at Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin.

Asisi Panorama–Die Mauer (The Wall)

While in Berlin, I became fascinated by its recent Cold War past. You’ll find museums and memorials commemorating the Cold War throughout Berlin, including the DDR Museum mentioned earlier.

I enjoyed the Asisi Panorama: Die Mauer (The Wall), located across the street from Checkpoint Charlie. The Panorama is a multi-storey immersive experience created by artist Yadegar Asisi in which you step back in time to 1980s Berlin and peer over the Wall from West Berlin into East Berlin.

Climb a set of stairs in front of a massive curved screen. You are five meters back and four meters up on the western side of the Berlin Wall, watching a day unfold over the course of 24 hours.

Sophisticated lighting effects cycle through changes from day to night every half hour or so in the shadow of the guard towers. You experience the contrast between the lively streets and graffiti-daubed wall on the West Berlin side and the drabness and aura of danger of East Berlin.

I was riveted–and fascinated that the scenes depicted on-screen in East Berlin happened a relatively short time ago.

The Berlin Wall existed for almost thirty years of my lifetime, and yet now when you walk around Berlin, you often have no idea when you’re in the former East Berlin. Your only clues are the pedestrian crossing signals (Ampelmänn!) and the stark utilitarian facades of some of the government buildings. Thirty years of unification have blurred the divisions, and pretty much everyone under the age of 35 has little or no memory of the Cold-War past.

Buy tickets in advance to avoid line-ups.

The Jewish Museum Berlin

Housed in a spectacular modern building, the Jewish Museum Berlin (#17) is a must-see. The museum chronicles Jewish history and culture in Germany from the Middle Ages to the present day.

The building itself adds to the compelling visitor experience, with its bold zigzag design and occasional empty spaces (called voids) that stretch the full height of the building and symbolize the cultural loss caused by the Holocaust.

In one space, metal discs representing upturned faces make weirdly disturbing sounds as you walk across them. The effect underscores the dehumanization of the Holocaust.

Room of metal discs representing upturned faces in the Jewish Museum
A room in the Jewish Museum
Exterio of the Jewish Museum
Exterior of the Jewish Museum

Stumble Stones (Stolpersteine)

As you walk around Berlin, particularly in the old Jewish quarter north of Museum Island, you’ll come across slightly raised stones set into the sidewalk and polished by the thousands of feet that have walked over them.

Called stumbling stones (#18), each 10-square-centimeter polished brass square is inscribed with the name of an individual or family that once lived in the building you’re passing.

The inscription on each stone begins “Here lived”, followed by the victim’s name, date of birth, and fate: internment, suicide, exile or, most often, deportation and murder.

Dr. Martin Happ and Sophie Happ were deported from their home in 1943 and murdered (ermordet) in Auschwitz.

Over 70,000 stumble stones are laid in sidewalks in more than 1,200 cities and towns across Europe and Russia.

I wanted to stop and read each one as we walked along the streets, but there were so many, it was heart wrenching. The stumble stones have been controversial, but I found them to be moving tributes to people who were going about their daily lives until ensnared by the horrors of fascism.

According to the Guardian, despite their international scope, the Stolpersteine are a grassroots initiative. Local groups – often residents of a street, or schoolchildren working on a project – unite to research the biographies of local victims and to raise the €120 it costs to install each stone.

Museum Pass & Other Tour Options

I recommend purchasing the three-day Museum Pass Berlin. At €29, the pass gets you into 30+ museums in Berlin, including the five Museum Island museums, the German History Museum, the Jewish History Museum, the Gemäldegalerie, and other museums in the Kulturforum area.

Considering admission to each museum on Museum Island costs €10, a Museum Pass makes sense.

The €18 Museum Island Pass saves you money if you tour two or more of the Museum Island museums on one day.

Here are some other tour options in Berlin:

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Berlin Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Berlin!

More Berlin

Even after spending a week in Berlin, I hadn’t seen everything I wanted to. Depending on your interests, you’ll find many more museums, lively nightlife, and interesting neighborhoods to wander through.

Although we stayed in the Kreuzberg area in south Berlin, I recommend the trendier and more interesting Prenzlauer Berg in north Berlin. We enjoyed dining out in this area that features older buildings, lots of cool restaurants, and a youthful, neighborhood vibe.

The author at an outdoor cafe in Berlin
Enjoying lunch at a sidewalk café in hip and happenin’ Prenzlauer Berg

Where to Stay in Berlin

For accommodation suggestions in Berlin, see Where to Stay in Germany: My Best Picks.

Have you been to Berlin? Please share your experiences and tips with other artsy travelers in the Comments section below.

Here are more posts about Germany on Artsy Traveler:

Art Masterpieces in Tuscany You Don’t Want to Miss

Art masterpieces in Tuscany are as thick on the ground as grapes at harvest time. When you visit Tuscany, you’ll enjoy la dolce vita, for sure, but in between sips of some of the world’s best wine, prepare to have your breath taken away by some of the world’s most cherished art.

Let’s face it, Tuscany is the perfect storm for the cultural tourist—stunning scenery, amazing food, tons of history, and world-class art. 

In this post, I present a selection of the art masterpieces to consider including in your Tuscany travels—whether this is your first trip or your tenth (or somewhere in between).

Art Masterpieces in Tuscany

You’ll recognize some of the art masterpieces included in this post, but others you may not be familiar with. I include both individual masterworks and art destinations in Tuscany.

A few of my suggested places are a fair way off the beaten path which means they won’t be crowded. 

Organization

I’ve grouped the art masterpieces by location, starting with Florence:

  • Florence
  • Villa Demidoff (Outside Florence)
  • San Gimignano
  • Siena
  • Il Giardino dei Tarocchi near Grosseto

The map of Tuscany below shows the general locations of the masterpieces covered in this post. See individual places for more detailed maps.

My list is in no way exhaustive. Tuscany is chock-a-block with art masterpieces, and to list all of them requires books, not blog posts.

This list is a starting point to help you create your own perfect Tuscany itinerary.

Art Masterpieces in Florence

For many travelers to Tuscany, Florence is their only destination, which is a shame. Florence is worth visiting, and you’ll find plenty to see, but it’s also extremely crowded and lacks the charm of other, smaller Tuscan towns, such as Siena and Lucca.

Skyline of Florence with the Duomo
Duomo in Florence, Italy

That said, if you haven’t been to Florence, then you should include it on your itinerary. Stay at least two nights and preferably three or four.

You won’t run out of art masterpieces to enjoy.

Map of Florence

Florence is a very walkable and compact city. You can easily stroll between each of the Florence sites.

Trip map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

Uffizi

The Uffizi is art masterpiece-central in Tuscany and a must-see during your visit to Florence. But be warned! You really, really need to make reservations for the Uffizi.

Don’t just show up hoping to walk right in. That is, unless you enjoy standing in long lines that move an inch a minute while all the people with pre-purchased tickets whisk by. It’s disheartening.

Here are ticket options for the Uffizi.

I’m including my three favourite must-see masterpieces in the Uffizi, but you’ll find many more.

Take a virtual tour.

The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333)

That’s a mouthful. I just call it Martini’s Annunciation. The subject of the annunciation—when the angel Gabriel flutters to earth and informs Mary she is to be the mother of Christ—was popular in medieval and Renaissance art.

I love this version by Martini and Memmi because of the expression on Mary’s face. She’s like, what? Seriously?

The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333)
The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333) [Public domain]

I’m also taken with the gold background and the flatness of the figures.

Annunciation by da Vinci

In later centuries, Annunciations, such as the famous one by Leonardo da Vinci below, look more realistic, but I like the energy and composition of the Martini one the best.

The da Vinci Annunciation is also in the Uffizi. You’ll see it after you view the Martini and Memmi version.

The Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci: Public Domain
The Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci: Public Domain

You’ll come across the Martini masterpiece shortly after entering the Uffizi. A lot of people trudge right past it on a beeline for the more famous paintings by Botticelli, da Vinci, et al, but stop in the galleries of 14th-century paintings and spend some time.

You’ll be well rewarded and won’t be jostling for viewing room with thousands of selfie-stick wielders.

Birth of Venus by Botticelli (1485)

You’ve probably seen many reproductions of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. The goddess of beauty and love arrives on the island of Cyprus, born of the sea spray and blown by the winds Zephyr and Aura (seen in the top left corner).

Venus perches on the edge of a giant scallop shell as goddesses are wont to do. She’s just so danged perfect. I mean, look at that hair!

 Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli in the Uffizi
Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli: Public Domain

The room containing several paintings by Botticelli is generally crowded, so if possible, visit the Uffizi early or late in the day so you can sit and enjoy his work.

Other Works by Botticelli

In addition to Birth of Venus, you’ll also see Botticelli’s equally famous Primavera along with several more of his paintings exhibited in four consecutive rooms.

And once you’ve finished looking at the real things, you can buy them on just about every knick-knack known to humanity in the many gift shops of Florence. Primavera mouse pad? Sure. Birth of Venus apron? Definitely.

Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi

Hooray for Artemisia Gentileschi, one of the first recognized woman artists of the Baroque period. Several other women artists from the period (and earlier) have gained notice in recent years, but Artemisia is the one most people think of when asked to name a woman artist from back in the day.

She was also the first woman to be admitted to the Academy of Art and Design in Florence.

Artemisia’s painting of Judith beheading poor old Holofernes (hey, he deserved it) is an amazing work. Look at Judith’s muscles as she holds down Holofernes.

This subject was a favorite of the period, and male artists usually depicted Judith as a bit of an ethereal wimp. Not Artemisia. She doesn’t shy away from showing the sheer brute strength that Judith would need to saw the head off a man. She and her maid are working hard!

Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi in the Uffizi in Florence
Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi: Public Domain

Davids

That’s Davids plural because in Florence you must see the super-famous David by Michelangelo as well as the not-quite-so-famous-but still-awesome David by Donatello.

Both Davids are art masterpieces that represent the Renaissance in different ways.

Michelangelo’s David

Michelangelo’s David hangs out in the Academia, another place for which you must secure reservations or risk a long line-up.

David stands with magnificent insouciance at the end of a long hallway lined with other works by Michelangelo.

Some of these works are unfinished—human figures emerging half-formed from marble blocks. I like these works almost more than the finished sculptures because they show the process of turning blocks into humans.

Head of Michelangelo's David in the Academia Gallery in Florence
Michelangelo’s David in the Academia Gallery in Florence

When you finally work your way up to the front of the line and stand in front of David in all his naked glory, you’ll know what all the fuss is about. He is magnificent.

Although sculpted from marble, the muscles and sinews appear to pulse with life. Every inch of him is perfection—a testament to the beauty and power of the human form.

I remember wandering around the back of him and staring up at a pair of buttocks that any gym rat would kill for. While thinking unholy thoughts, I was joined by a bevy of nuns. They weren’t speaking English, so I couldn’t understand what they were saying, but they were definitely smiling—and, truth be told, giggling.

Well, no wonder.

Donatello’s David

Donatello’s David at the marvelous Bargello Museum (reservations also recommended) might as well be a different species.

Where Michelangelo’s marble-carved David is tall, strong, and, let’s face it, hunky, Donatello’s bronze David is relaxed, laid-back, and kind of pretty.

He wears a hat festooned with flowers and leans on his sword, one hand on his hip. He’s like, come on Goliath, I dare ya to come at me.

David by Donatello at the Bargello Museum
David by Donatello at the Bargello Museum: Public Domain

Donatello’s David is famous for being the first free-standing bronze sculpture since antiquity.

The Bargello Museum—a former prison—includes many more masterpieces to enjoy, including sculptures by Benvenuto Cellini and works by Michelangelo, including his statue of Bacchus.

Fra Angelico at the Museo di San Marco

I visited the Museo di San Marco on my most recent trip to Florence and was very glad I did. It’s a little off the beaten path which means it’s not crowded—a relief in Florence.

The museum is housed in the former Dominican Monastery (called the Convento di San Marco) where Fra’ Angelico lived as a monk from 1436 to 1455 and painted his stunning frescoes.

Wander down the long corridor flanked on either side by the monk’s cells and stop at each cell to view Fra’ Angelico’s frescoes. I love the way he painted angel wings—very art deco-looking and colorful.

Annuniciation by Fra Angelico in Cell 3
Annunciation by Fra Angelico in Cell 3: Public Domain

The museum contains numerous masterpieces by Fra’ Angelico, including the magnificent fresco in the Chapter House and his famous version of the Annunciation located at the top of the stairs leading to the cells. As I mentioned, I’m partial to Annunciations, and Fra’ Angelico’s version is one of the best.

Savonarola: A Burning Tale

You can also peek into the cell once occupied by the infamous Savonarola, who preached vociferously against greed and luxury and denounced clerical corruption, despotic rule, and the exploitation of the poor.

Unfortunately for Savonarola, he went too far with his well-attended but over-the-top spectacles, including his Bonfires of the Vanities, and ended up hanged and burned in 1498.

Oops.

Brancacci Chapel

The attraction at the lovely Brancacci Chapel across the Arno in a quieter and less touristy area of Florence are the gorgeous frescoes by Masaccio and Masolino. The Chapel is located away from the tourist hordes and requires a pleasantly long walk through a Florentine neighborhood in which people actually live.

I stopped for lunch at a café with three tiny tables perched on the edge of the sidewalk and enjoyed being the only tourist in the vicinity.

I was entertained watching a group of well-heeled, impeccably dressed Florentine businessmen lunching nearby. Each man looked like he’d stepped straight out of one of the Renaissance frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel. Substitute business suits for tights and cloaks and not much has changed.

The Headling of Tabitha by Masolino at the Brancacci Chapel in Florence
The Healing of Tabitha by Masolino at the Brancacci Chapel in Florence: Public Domain

Admission to the Brancacci Chapel is limited so purchase your tickets in advance. Tickets from this site let you skip the line, and provide a video guide.

You’ll be struck by the vivid colors in the Masaccio and Masolino frescoes commissioned in 1424. The Expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise is especially evocative.

Other Suggestions for Florence

Palazzo Davanzati

Tour this medieval palazzo to discover what life was like for wealthy people in the early Renaissance. I had a great visit even though the guided tour was in Italian.

It didn’t matter; I could still get a good idea of how people lived. A highlight is the painted walls in many of the rooms. When I was writing my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, I often envisioned the layout of the rooms in the Palazzo Davanzati as I wrote.

Boboli Gardens

Treat yourself to a refreshing walk through these beautiful gardens with spectacular views over Florence and the Tuscan countryside.

View of the Boboli Gardens in Florence
The beautifully green Boboli Gardens in Florence

When it’s hot (as it often is in Florence), do yourself a favor and escape the crush of tour groups in the center of the city and take a taxi across the Arno to the Boboli Gardens. Once again, you can skip the line by purchasing your ticket ahead (see options below).

Florence overflows with interesting museums and churches and artwork to keep you busy for days. And don’t forget shopping! Florence is the place in Tuscany to buy leather goods (although they can be cheaper in Siena but without as much choice).

Ticket Options for Florence

Here are ticket options for enjoying the many artsy sights in Florence. Purchase tickets in advance for the Uffizi and the Accademia and consider some of the tours.

Tours in Florence

Here are some Get Your Guide tour options in Florence.

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Villa Demidoff – Outside Florence

In the gardens of the Villa Demidoff in Pratolino, about ten kilometers north of Florence in the beautiful Tuscan countryside, you can visit the aptly named Colossus. A seated figure that appears to be half rock, half man broods on an outcropping above a pond.

I adore this statue! It’s just so darned unexpected. We visited a few years ago on a hot summer’s day and were captivated. The 35-foot tall Colossus is a colossal (ha!) statue created in the late 1500s by the Italian sculptor Giambologna.

 Colossus at the Villa Demidorff near Florence
Colossus at the Villa Demidoff near Florence

Despite his size, Colossus looks quite melancholy, as if he wished he could rise from the rocks keeping him captive and clomp off to a quiet grove where no one would take selfies with him. Inside Colossus are various chambers.

Other Sites in the Gardens

The gardens are home to several more interesting features, including the hexagonal Chapel of Buontalenti, a fantastic dragon sculpture behind Colossus, the Cupid’s grotto, and the fountain of Jupiter. The park is open every weekend from April to October, and admission is free. Before you go, check opening times on the park website.

For a good day out, rent a car and drive north to enjoy the park and the surrounding area, then have dinner in Fiesole while watching the sun set over Florence in the valley below.

You can also take a bus to Pratolino: catch the ATAF bus #25A from Piazza San Marco – the “A” is important. SITA also offers service to Pratolino from the main stop in SMN Piazza Stazione and CAP, with stops on Via Nazionale in Florence.

Art Masterpieces in Siena

Hands down, Siena is my favorite city in Tuscany. I never tire of wandering its narrow streets and then emerging, dazzled by the sun, into the Piazza del Campo—or Il Campo.

Called the most beautiful living room in Italy, Il Campo takes my breath away every time.

Campo in Siena at sunset
The breathtaking Campo in Siena

The first time I went to Siena by myself, I was so overcome with emotion by finally making it to the Campo, where several important scenes in my novel The Towers of Tuscany take place, that I dropped to my knees, lay down on my back, and took a selfie.

Carol lying on the 14th century bricks of the Campo in Siena
Relaxing on the 14th-century bricks of the Campo in Siena

Fortunately, no one batted an eye. Several people were doing the same, their backs warmed by bricks laid in the 1330s, not long before the Black Death carried away half of Siena’s population.

Siena is very compact, which is a good thing because the only way to get around is by walking. Fortunately, you can stroll between the two major sites–the cathedral and the palazzo publicco in just a few minutes. Use the map below to orient yourself.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

Piccolomini Library in the Cathedral of Siena

I single out the Piccolomini Library as one of two must-see masterpieces in Siena, but really, the entire cathedral (also known as the Duomo) is worth a half-day of your touring time.

You can skip the line by buying your tickets ahead. Your ticket is also good for the baptistery, crypt, and the Opera museum—all must-sees.

Cathedral Sqare and Duomo in Siena
Cathedral Square and Duomo in Siena

Cathedral of Siena

A superb example of the Gothic Roman style in Italy, the Cathedral of Siena (the Duomo) is full of treasures. Marvel at the Duomo’s indoor and outdoor alternating stripes in white and greenish-black marble. Black and white are the symbolic colors of Siena.

Unlike the sparse interiors of some cathedrals in Italy, notably the Duomo in Florence, the interior of the Duomo of Siena is fantastically decorated.

Carol Cram overlooking the Duomo in Siena
Overlooking the Duomo in Siena

Look for the statue of St. John the Baptist by Donatello to the right after the Piccolomini Library, the rose window by Duccio di Buoninsegna, and the marble pulpit by Nicola Pisano, along with many gorgeous frescoes.

One of the most beautiful parts of the cathedral is its floor. You can spend hours wandering around the huge mosaics to “read” the stories. The fifty-six etched and inlaid marble panels were designed between 1369 and 1547 by forty leading artists.

Piccolomini Library

And then there’s the Piccolomini Library itself. This place was a surprise to me. I hadn’t heard of it and so was in for a treat when I entered and had the breath knocked out of me (figuratively speaking).

Ceiling in the Piccolomini Library in the Siena Duomo
Ceiling in the Piccolomini Library in the Siena Duomo

The library is dedicated to Enea Silvio Piccolomini, an immensely powerful man in the mid 1400s who was elected Pope Pius II in 1458. The big draw in the library are the frescoes by Pinturicchio.

Each of the ten scenes representing important stages in the life of Pope Pius II is exquisitely painted. The colors, perspective, figures, and backgrounds are incredibly detailed and evocative of their time. I was mesmerized.

Maestà Altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna

While you’re hanging around the Duomo, don’t miss the Opera museum (it’s part of your ticket) so you can admire the Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna that was commissioned by the cathedral in 1311.

I like the altarpiece because it’s gorgeous and because it makes a cameo appearance in my novel, The Towers of Tuscany.

Central panel of the Maestà, 1308–1311, by Duccio di Buoninsegna. Museo dell'Opera metropolitana del Duomo, Italy
Central panel of the Maestà, 1308–1311, by Duccio di Buoninsegna. Museo dell’Opera metropolitana del Duomo, Italy

Palazzo Pubblico in Siena

You can’t miss the Palazzo Pubblico in Il Campo. The much-photographed red brick palazzo that looks like a child’s drawing of a castle has become one of the most recognized views in Siena. I’ve taken my share of photos of it and the adjacent Torre Mangia.

Palazzo Publicco in Siena
Palazzo Pubblico in Siena

The Palazzo Pubblico dates from the early 14th century and played an important role in ensuring Siena enjoyed relative peace from the late 13th century to 1355.

While you tour the Museo Civico, read about the “Government of the Nine”, the system of government that consisted of nine representatives of the people elected from the middle class and not from the noble families. This relatively democratic form of government was responsible for commissioning many civic works of art in the first half of the 14th century.

Museo Civico – Torre Mangia

The Museo Civico is located on the first floor of the Palazzo Pubblico, which still functions as Siena’s city hall.

Enter the courtyard called the Cortile del Podestà to access the Museo Civico and, if you’re feeling energetic, climb the 400 steps to the top of the Torre Mangia.

The view is spectacular, but the narrow staircase is claustrophobic and, in the summer, very hot. I’ve climbed the Torre Mangia once and do not feel the need to do so again.

Frescoes in Sala del Mappamondo

There are plenty of interesting things to look at in the Museo Civico, but the big draw are the frescoes by Simone Martini and Ambrogio Lorenzetti.

The two large frescoes by Simone Martini are located in the massive hall called Sala del Mappamondo. You can’t miss it. To your left as you enter the hall is the Maestà by Simone Martini. The gorgeous fresco shows the Madonna seated on a throne with the Child and surrounded by angels and saints. Note all the haloes!

Maestà by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain
Maestà by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain

Turn around and at the other end of the hall you’ll see the fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano, a general on his horse with the castles he just conquered in the distance. You’ll see reproductions of this piece throughout Siena.

I love how Guidoriccio and his horse are wearing the same ensemble. Very stylish.

Fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain
Fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain

Frescoes in the Sala dei Nove

Now walk into the Sala dei Nove—the Hall of the Nine—to see Siena’s most famous masterpiece: the fresco cycle called Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti.

You’ll get a sore neck looking up at the three wall-size frescoes, famous because they’re interesting to look at and because they depict secular subjects instead of religious ones—a rarity at the time (1340s).

I love the girls dancing in the Good Government fresco (pictured below). Take a seat and enjoy gazing up at the frescoes. Whenever I’ve been to the Sala dei Novel, I’ve been pretty much alone.

Although famous, these frescoes aren’t that famous which means you’re likely able to enjoy them crowd-free.

Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Pubblico, Siena: Public Domain
Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Pubblico, Siena: Public Domain

Other Suggestions for Siena

Siena is worth at least two days of your time, although people often squeeze it in as an afternoon trip from Florence. Please don’t do that!

Compared to overcrowded Florence, Siena is a medieval treat. Make room in your itinerary for a proper visit so you have ample time to get to know this delightful city. You won’t find many big-ticket sites, but that’s not the point of Siena.

Here are ticket options in Siena:

And when you’re not enjoying the art, spend time wandering the back streets. Enjoy a cappuccino in one of the cafés overlooking the Campo and buy yourself a leather purse or two. They are far more reasonably priced here than in Florence. My collection is growing!

Selection of leather purses in Siena
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Art Masterpieces in San Gimignano

San Gimignano is overrun with tourists and crammed with tacky tourist shops. And yet I love it!

Every time we visit Tuscany, we stay for a few days in the vicinity of San Gimignano. We usually spend the day either touring around the countryside or staying put in our hotel to write (me) and draw (Gregg).

view of the towers of San Gimignano
San Gimignano

Then, towards the end of the afternoon when the parking lots surrounding Gimignano start to empty, we venture forth.

By 4 or 5 pm, the tour busses have lumbered off, the merchants are standing outside their shops taking a much-needed break, the hot streets are shaded by the towers, and the whole town seems to exhale with relief.

Stroll virtually deserted side streets in search of art and food (in that order). For a small hill town, San Gimignano punches above its weight in excellent restaurants.

You’ll see a lot of art in San Gimignano, but don’t miss these two sites which fortunately are close to each other:

Palazzo Comunale in the Civic Museum

Located next to the Duomo, the Civic Museum also includes the Torre Grossa—the tallest of San Gimignano’s seventeen towers and the only one you can climb.

I have climbed it, and it’s worth doing, but the real draw are the frescoes in the chamber of the Podestà in the Palazzo Comunale (which also has other good art to enjoy).

View from the top of the Torre Grosso in San GImignano
View from the top of the Torre Grossa in San Gimignano

Snares of Love

The series of frescoes is called the “snares of love”, painted by Memmo di Filippucio between 1303 to 1310.

Scenes show both profane love and scenes from marriage. I love the secular nature of these frescoes, especially the one where the young married couple share a bathtub.

One of the frescoes in the Palazzo Communale Civic Museum in San Gimignano showing a naked couple enjoying a bath.
One of the frescoes in the Palazzo Comunale Civic Museum in San Gimignano

Frescoes in the Duomo of San Gimignano

The Duomo also contains an amazing number and variety of frescoes. Every wall on both sides of the nave is filled with frescoes, most dating from the 1300s.

The vivid colors are original; the frescoes have never required restoration.

Fresco in the Duomo at San Gimignano by Bartolo di Fredi [CC BY-SA]

Get the audio guide and walk slowly around the frescoes, picking out scene after scene from the Old and New Testaments. Even if you’re not into Bible stories, you can’t help but be entranced by these frescoes. I enjoy studying the clothing and the facial expressions for inspiration.

Pick up a ticket to the Museum of Sacred Art in the Duomo that includes an audio guide from this link.

Other Suggestions for San Gimignano

Climb to the top of the ruined Fortezza (fortress) at the highest point in San Gimignano to enjoy spectacular views over the countryside.

Even when the main street is heaving with sweaty tourists, the Fortezza is usually virtually empty.

At the top of the Fortezza in San Gimignano overlooking the towers
Overlooking the towers of San Gimignano

San Gimignano 1300

One of my favorite museums in San Gimignano is San Gimignano 1300, located in a side street close to the Piazzale Comunale.

Here you’ll view a scale model of San Gimignano as it appeared in 1300.

Grosseto – Il Giardino dei Tarocchi

I haven’t been to Grosseto, which I’m sure is a lovely town, but I list it as the closest place to The Tarot Garden (Il Giardino dei Tarocchi).

Here is where you’ll see a stunning collection of whimsical sculptures by modern artist Niki Saint Phalle. The sculptures are based on the Tarot cards and are a must-see if you’re looking for something far off the beaten path.

And the sculptures are a nice break from the medieval and Renaissance masterpieces that make up most of the art in Tuscany.

Modern art sculpture in the Tarot Garden near Grossetto in Tuscany
Sculpture in The Tarot Garden
Modern art sculpture in the Tarot Garden near Grossetto in Tuscany
Sculpture in the Tarot Garden

We spent a full hour wandering around the gardens on a hot afternoon in September. Although I took tons of photographs, they don’t do the sculptures justice. You have to visit the gardens and touch the sculptures, walk inside them, and sit on them to fully appreciate them.

When you go, check the website for the current opening hours. Usually, the gardens are open daily from April 1 to October 15 from 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm. In the winter, the gardens are open only on the first Saturday of the month from 9 am to 1 pm.

Summary

My list of must-see art masterpieces barely scratches the surface of all the wonderful art you can enjoy when you slow down and take time to get to know Tuscany in all its glory.

Plan to spend two weeks enjoying the many beautiful towns and villages: Montalcino, Montepulciano, Lucca, Pisa, Volterra…the list goes on. Take a walking holiday or book into an agritourism property and settle in for a week of great food and long, warm days.

For more information about traveling in Tuscany see Exploring Tuscany, Umbria and La Dolce Vita and Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Ciao!

Music in VIenna - statue of Johann Strauss

A Music Lover’s Guide to Enjoying Vienna–The City of Music

If you love classical music, you owe it to yourself to plan a trip to Vienna in Austria. For over 250 years, Vienna has celebrated and enjoyed its reputation as the City of Music. And no wonder!

Many of Europe’s greatest composers, including Haydn, Beethoven, Mozart, Schubert, and Strauss, lived and worked in Vienna. 

If you visit Vienna today, you’ll see evidence everywhere of Vienna’s illustrious musical past.

Vienna and Music

Hang out in the central square (Stephansplatz) near the imposing St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Within minutes, a young person dressed in 18th-century garb will hand you a flyer advertising classical music concerts. 

View of Saint Stephans Cathedral in Vienna illuminated with golden light
Saint Stephansplatz in Central Vienna

Go for a walk in any park and you’ll soon be snapping selfies in front of statues of composers. 

In the evening, wander the cobbled streets in central Vienna to hear snatches of music wafting into the soft air from several concert venues specializing in tourist-oriented programs usually dominated by the music of Mozart and Strauss.

A Map of Musical Vienna

The map below shows the location of all the music sites mentioned in this post. Vienna is a very walkable city. You can easily walk between most of the sites and still have energy left to enjoy a cafe, a slice of torte, and a spot of people watching. I recommend starting at the House of Music (#1) and venturing out from there to visit the museums dedicated to your fave composers.

Trip map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

Music Museums in Vienna

Vienna is chock-a-block with excellent museums. I’m a bit of a museum fangirl, so for me, Vienna ranks as one of Europe’s top museum cities. You could easily spend a week in Vienna and not run out of world-class museums to visit. Read my post about Best Vienna Museum Experiences that Appeal to the Artsy Traveler to find out about some of the top art museums.

In this post, I focus on two of my favorite music museums in Vienna: the House of Music and the Musical Instrument Museum, which is part of the Kunsthistorisches Museum.

House of Music

Make time in your Musical Vienna Itinerary for a visit to the House of Music, (#1 on the map above) also known as Vienna’s Museum of Sound.

Housed in the historical palace of Archduke Karl in the old city center, this museum is a must-see for everyone. And it is absolute heaven for music lovers.

On a recent trip to Vienna, I spent half a day there enjoying its five floors (yes, five!) of installations and displays celebrating music and sound. Trust me, you won’t want to miss this place.

Highlights of the House of Music

Here are some highlights:

  • The virtostage—a multimedia and interactive production. When you move in front of the screen, you become part of the 15-minute opera “zeitperlen”. Members of the Vienna Philharmonic recorded the music with vocals by opera star Natalia Ushakova. Technically and musically, the production is a remarkable achievement.
  • NAMADEUS—an installation created after Mozart’s musical game KV 516f. Included are the interactive Waltz Dice Game and an interactive application called Facing Mozart that lets you bring a Mozart portrait to life by controlling his head movements and facial expressions. Hours of fun!
  • The virtual conductor installation allows you to “conduct” a video projection of the Vienna Philharmonic that responds to your conducting commands. If you conduct poorly, the musicians respond with criticism, so you need to keep time correctly!

Sound installations using state-of-the-art technology, including opportunities to visualize sound as waves, swirls, and grids.

Exhibits at the House of Music

Comprehensive exhibits of composers including Beethoven, Mozart, Haydn, Strauss, and Mahler. I spent at least an hour in this section of the museum. Plenty of life-size figures and original musical instruments bring the subjects to life. I especially enjoyed the Haydn portion of the exhibition.

During his long life, Papa Haydn exerted enormous influence on music in Vienna. He even counted Beethoven and Mozart among his many pupils. Haydn and Beethoven had a complicated relationship. Beethoven criticized his teacher by saying “I never learned anything from Haydn” and then dedicated his set of three Piano Sonatas Opus 2 to Haydn. (reference: Beethoven and Haydn: their relationship)

The House of Music is located at Seilerstätte 30 in Vienna and you can get a discount with the Vienna City Card. The museum is open daily from 10 am to 10 pm.

Musical Instrument Museum

I always enjoy touring a good musical instrument museum, and Vienna’s is first-rate. Housed in the Hofburg Palace and part of the masive Kunsthistorisches Museum, the Musical Instrument Museum (#2 on the map above) exhibits five centuries of historical musical instruments. Its collection of renaissance and baroque instruments is considered one of the most important in the world.

You’ll see a particularly awesome collection of clavichords and Viennese fortepianos. A highlight for me was seeing pianos once played by Mozart, Liszt, Mahler, and Clara Schumann, who is the inspiration for my second novel, A Woman of Note.

Harpsicord made in 1745, Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien, Sammlung alter Musikinstrumente

The museum also includes replicas of historical instruments that visitors may play and regularly holds concerts at which master interpreters of their professions play the original instruments.

The Musical Instrument Museum is located at Heldenplatz and is open daily except Wednesday from 10 am to 6 pm.


Composer Houses

Many of the apartments lived in by Vienna’s famous composers have been converted into museums. Download a map of Musician Walks from the excellent Wien Info website.

Here is information (in alphabetical order!) about the museums dedicated to individual composers including Beethoven, Haydn, Mozart, Schönberg, Schubert, and Strauss. Some composers are celebrated in more than one museum!

You can visit the six apartments of Beethoven, Strauss, Schubert, and Haydn with a special combination ticket from the Wien Museum website. Note that most of the composer museums close on Mondays.

Ludwig von Beethoven

Beethoven House

I’ve made two pilgrimages to the Pasqualati House (#3 on the map above), one of the many houses in which Beethoven lived. Built in the 18th century adjacent to the city walls, the house is named after its owner (Pasqualati). Beethoven lived for eight years, off and on, in the 4th floor apartment at the top of a series of old stone staircases.

During my second visit to the apartment, I was writing A Woman of Note about a woman composer in 1830s Vienna. The novel starts with the funeral of Beethoven, and his influence is felt by the characters throughout the novel. As I mounted the old staircase to Beethoven’s apartment, I imagined my characters mounting similar staircases in buildings of the same vintage. 

When I visited, the rooms of Beethoven’s apartment were virtually bare and contained little in the way of exhibits. Two listening desks are set up for listening to various Beethoven pieces on headphones. I indulged myself with the second movement of Symphony No. 7 for a while. The place was empty, so it was just me and Beethoven’s soaring melodies and the temptation to burst into tears.

Musical tourism doesn’t get any better.

Carol Cram in front of Pasqualati house in Vienna
In front of Pasqualati House in Vienna

Beethoven Museum

Want more Beethoven? Visit the Beethoven Museum (#4). In 2017, the original 40-square-meter apartment at Probusgasse 6 in Heiligenstadt in Vienna’s 19th district where Beethoven lived was extended to create a spacious, 14-room museum. Here you’ll find exhibits chronicling the history of the house, Beethoven’s move from Bonn to Vienna, his stay in Heiligenstadt, and many more related to the maestro.

Pasqualati House (or Pasqualatihaus) is located at Mölker Bastei 8 in Vienna and is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 1 pm and from 2 pm to 6 pm except for public holidays. The Beethoven Museum is located at Probusgasse 6 and is also open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 1 pm and from 2 pm to 6 pm except for public holidays.

Joseph Haydn

Haydnhaus

Managed by the Wien Museum (as are most of the composer houses), Haydnhaus (#5) is the location where Joseph Haydn spent the last twelve years of his life and where he died on May 31, 1809. The museum includes the rooms of Haydn’s flat on the first floor, recently restored so that the rooms are divided in the same way they were when Haydn lived there. Haydn was extremely famous during his lifetime, and exhibits at the museum reflect the esteem in which he was held both then and now.

The museum also has a room dedicated to Brahms. Here’s a detailed post about the Haydnhaus on the Visiting Vienna website.

Haydnhaus is located at Haydngasse 19 and is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 1 pm and from 2 pm to 6 pm except for public holidays.

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart

Mozarthaus Museum

Mozart lived in several houses in Vienna during his short and tumultuous life. The only one that survives is the Mozarthaus Museum (#6) at Domgasse #5, where Mozart lived from 1784 to 1787.

Occupying 1,000 square meters on six levels, the  Mozarthaus Museum is the premier pilgrimage site for Mozart fans.

And seriously, who isn’t a Mozart fan?

The museum immerses you in Mozart’s world. Exhibits celebrate his remarkable genius and creativity and feature his family, friends, and foes in the heady world of late-Baroque Vienna. Get tickets to Mozarthaus.

Mozarthaus is located in St. Stephansplatz at Domgasse 5 and is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm except for public holidays.

Arnold Schönberg

Arnold Schönberg Center

Established in 1998, the Arnold Schönberg Center (#7) celebrates and life and work of one of the 20th century’s most notable composers (and also a painter, teacher, theoretician, and innovator!). If you’re a music history buff, you’ll know that Schönberg is associated with the method of composing with the 12-tone scale.

The museum includes exhibitions about Schönberg’s life, a gallery of his paintings, a replica of his study in Los Angeles, the city in which he died in 1951, and lots of concerts, lectures, and other events aimed at helping people understand and enjoy Schönberg’s music.

The Arnold Schönberg Center is located at St. Stephansplatz at Schwarzenbergplatz 6 and is open Monday to Friday from 9 am to 5 pm except for holidays.

Franz Schubert

Schubert makes a cameo appearance in A Woman of Note. I’m very fond of Schubert who, like Mozart, died very young (he was just 31). He managed to compose an amazing amount of music in his short lifetime, much of it lived in poverty. Two museums are devoted to Schubert in Vienna.

Schubert Geburtshaus

The Schubert Geburtshaus (#8) is the house where Schubert was born on January 31, 1797. He came from a large family that shared one room and a kitchen with an open fire. The exhibits include a pair of spectacles that belonged to Schubert that has apparently become quite an object of veneration for Schubert fans.

Schubert Sterbewohnung

Schubert died here at the Schubert Sterbewohnung (#9) on November 19, 1828. Although he lived in the small apartment for only a few weeks, he composed several works including the song “The Shepherd on the Rock.” Exhibits document the last weeks of his life, his death, and his funeral.

Schubert Geburtshaus is located at Nußdorfer Straße 54 and is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm except for public holidays and Schubert Sterbewohnung is located at Kettenbrückengasse 6 and is open Tuesday to Sunday from to 10 am to pm and 2 pm to 6 pm except for public holidays.

Johann Strauss

Johann Strauss Wohnung

The Johann Strauss Wohnung museum (#10) is the apartment where Strauss composed “The Blue Danube” waltz which has become Austria’s unofficial national anthem. Strauss lived in the apartment for even years in what was a fashionable and elegant Viennese neighborhood. The museum includes Strauss’s instruments along with furniture and paintings from his life, and references to the other musical members of the Strauss dynasty.

Strauss Museum

This new museum (it opened in 2015) is dedicated to the lives and work of the Strauss composers–the Strauss Dynasty! It’s a must-see for Strauss fans. Find pictures and documents from the period and listen to music at the various audio stations arranged in 15 themed areas. Here’s a detailed post about the Strauss Museum on the Visiting Vienna website.

Johann Strauss Wohnung is located at Praterstraße 54 and is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am 1 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm except for public holidays. The Strauss Museum is to remain closed through 2021 and will reopen in 2022 at a new location.


Vienna Concerts

You can’t walk far in Vienna without seeing ads for music concerts, particularly those organized for tourists and featuring Mozart and Strauss (and occasionally Beethoven, Schubert, and Haydn). When I go to Vienna, I check the current concert listings. If I’m lucky, I might get to catch a performance by the Vienna Boys Choir or the Vienna Philharmonic. Following are descriptions of two concerts I enjoyed during a recent trip to Vienna.

Find concert listings on the Vienna Sightseeing website.

Concert at the Sala Terrena

The Sala Terrena (#11) is a lovely old and rather small room next to a monastery in the centre of Vienna. Mozart lived in the building for about two months when he first came to the city as a young man. The room is frescoed from floor to ceiling with a cacophony of Italian Baroque splendor. You’ll see lots of fruit, cherubs, roses, urns, and even a leopard.

I chose the Sala Terrena concert rather than one of the flashier Mozart-Strauss concerts because Schubert was on the programme. Schubert makes a guest appearance in A Woman of Note, so I owed it to my imagination to hear his music played at least once in Vienna.

Alas, ‘twas not to be. The programme was changed to include the American Quartet by Dvorak and string quartets by Mozart and Haydn. The performances were fantastic, so I had no complaints.

Sala Terrena Concert Experience

Four musicians dressed in 18th-century garb (someone in this city must do a roaring trade in producing period costumes) entered the tiny salon and settled in to play. Unfortunately, as so often happens when I attend concerts soon after landing in Europe, jet lag hit me with a vengeance. I was seated in the front row, directly in the line of sight of the first violinist.

Despite my best efforts, my eyelids drooped, and my head started that awful bobbing thing that happens when you desperately fight falling asleep. What if I pitched face-first into the violinist’s lap? She might not appreciate the interruption.

In my defense, I defy any jet-lagged music lover to sit through a Mozart adagio without succumbing to the temptation to close one’s eyes and drift. In the interval, I chatted with a young woman from Japan who was studying art in Florence. I love traveling!

The concert was a success, and I drifted out into the heaving mass of tourists and locals thronging the Stephansplatz. If I hadn’t been alone, I would have hung around for awhile to enjoy a slice of strudel and a glass of wine in the shadow of the floodlit cathedral. Instead, I let the atmosphere wash over me for about ten minutes and then caught the tram back to my apartment.

Concert at the Schloss Laudon

While I was in Vienna, I was determined to see a “real” concert. By real, I mean a concert that does not feature costumed musicians and Eine Kleine Nachtmusik (not that there’s anything wrong with that). But I wanted to attend a concert with local people.

Fortunately, I discovered that the five-day Schloss Laudon festival—a yearly event held in the salon at the Schloss Laudon (#12), also known as the Water Palace about an hour outside of Vienna—was on during my visit.

Getting to Schloss Laudon

With e-ticket in hand, I boarded the metro for a ride to the last stop. For forty minutes, the bus wound through a maze of suburban streets toward what I hoped would be the palace.

I had absolutely no clue where I was and what I’d do if I was on the wrong bus. What if there was no concert at the end of the ride and no bus back? I’d be stranded miles from nowhere with only 60 euros in my wallet and a pathological fear of incurring data roaming charges on my phone because on that trip I hadn’t had the foresight to buy a European SIM card.

But isn’t living dangerously the stuff of great travel?

Fortunately, I heard a couple on the bus mention Schloss Laudon, and minutes later the bus stopped and they got off.

I followed.

Exploring Schloss Laudon

The Schloss Laudon and its stylishly landscaped grounds were exquisite. I was extremely early for the concert but not for the bar, fortunately. I sipped a glass of wine while wandering the sylvan pathways and making friends with the swans.

Carol Cram in front of Schloss Laudon near Vienna
At Schloss Laudon for a concert

Experiencing the Concert at Schloss Laudon

The concert featured a trio – piano, violin, and cello—in the large salon in the Schloss Laudon. A Schloss is basically a palace or a castle, and this place certainly qualified. The salon was frescoed floor to ceiling with exotic animals (tigers, rhinos, elephants, etc.) and exotic scenes of idealized, vaguely New World native-looking people in turbans. Evidently, historical accuracy was not a priority.

I snagged a seat in the second row, in direct line of sight of the keyboard (a pianist’s favorite place!).

Almost everyone around me was dressed to the nines. Most of the men wore suits and ties, and the women wore cocktail dresses and lots of jewelry and perfume. I might as well have had a neon sign on my head – turista. But whatever.

No one paid any attention to me—not even a wee smile of musical comradeship.  I felt a tad isolated, but what could I expect? Solitary travel can sometimes be a bit, ah, solitary.

A drawback of sitting in the second row quickly became apparent. The large spotlight caught me in its glare, and soon I was sweating. The heat would have been tolerable if indeed there had been music to listen to. However, to my dismay, the festival director and an expert on the modern composer featured on the program both shuffled to the front and faced the audience.

The Pre-Concert Talk

Festival-Director Guy talked for about five minutes–a bearable length of time to listen to German and pretend to understand. Then, Composer-Expert Guy took over and talked for at least thirty minutes. He stood directly in front of me, even making eye contact occasionally, so I had to look as if I was hanging on his every German syllable. I caught a few words—Mexico, Nazis, Anschluss, Franco. I snuck a peek at the concert notes–in German, of course and managed to decipher that the composer of the modern piece had left Vienna in 1938 and settled in Mexico by way of Spain. That was not a whole lot of information to get from a thirty-minute lecture.

Haydn & Tchaikovsky

Finally, the three musicians entered and performed an early Beethoven piano trio in the style of Haydn. The heat, the somnolence engendered by Composer-Expert Guy’s talk, and those darned slow movements marred my enjoyment of the piece.

Again, I experienced more than a few head bobs along with the terror that someone might notice. What if I snored or drooled? After the Beethoven came the modern composer’s piece, which was actually pretty good in a dissonant, modern music kind of way.

At the break, I thought about giving in to jet lag and catching the bus back to the metro. I even walked out to the bus stop and checked the times. Then I came to my senses and trudged back into the palace for the second half—the piano trio by Tchaikovsky.

Holy Russian romantic! It was stunning—no danger of head-bobbing for this one. I cheerfully bought the CD.

More Vienna

Vienna is worth a good chunk of your tourism budget, particularly if you love music. Visit the House of Music, pay tribute to Vienna’s composers at one or more of their houses, and splash out for a concert or two.

For more information about what to see and do in Vienna and Austria, check out Visiting Austria: My Best Tips for Enjoying an Artsy Trip and these posts:

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Have you visited any of the music sites in Vienna described in this post? Share your thoughts about music and Vienna with other artsy travelers in the Comments section below.

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in Vienna.

Vienna Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Vienna!

Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, Spain, one of the top ten modern art museums in Europe

Awesome Modern Art Museums in Europe: Best Bets for the Artsy Traveler

Some of the best modern art museums in the world are located in Europe.

In this post, I’ve chosen mostly large museums that feature a variety of artists. My focus is on modern art so you won’t find museums like the Prado and Louvre in this post.

Another option for getting your modern art fix in Europe is to seek out single-artist museums. I’ve compiled a list of seven of my favorites in Seven Super Single-Artist Museums in Europe You Should Visit.

As a life-long lover of modern art (check out my husband Gregg Simpson’s art and you’ll see why!), I’m a bit of a kid in a candy store when it comes to finding awesome modern art museums in Europe. You’ll be spoiled for choice!

Check for Exhibitions

Before you set off for Europe, take some time to check for special exhibitions in the places you’re visiting. Many times, I’ve changed my itinerary on the fly to catch an exhibition before it closes or to take in one at its start.

One of the great pleasures of traveling is switching gears halfway through a trip—to zig when you planned to zag. Stay open to possibilities when you travel. Often, you’ll meet someone who’ll tell you about a must-see art museum that you’ve never heard of.

On a recent trip to Porto, we were told about a special exhibition of the work of M. C. Escher. What a treat! We never would have known about it because of its location in an exhibition space rather than a museum.

Gregg Simpson in an otpical illusion room at the Escher exhibition in Porto

Chat with servers at dinner and strike up a conversation with other travelers you meet on the train or at your hotel. People love to share recommendations!

Modern Art Focus

As I mentioned earlier, in this post, I’m focusing only on museums with significant and varied modern art collections.

What do I mean by modern art? I’m a huge fan of 20th-century art from about the turn of the century to the 1960s. I also appreciate some (not all) of the contemporary art created post-1960.

Most of the best modern art museums covered in this post primarily exhibit traditional modern art. That sounds like an oxymoron, but if you’re an art fan, you’ll know what I mean!

Modern art—as distinct from contemporary art—encompasses the work of a slew of big names. These include Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, Henri Matisse, Georgia O’Keeffe, Rene Magritte… the list goes on and on and on.

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What’s Included in This Post

Most of the modern art museums listed here include works by modern masters in their permanent collections or feature them in major exhibitions. I fondly remember seeing a major retrospective of the work of Salvador Dali at the Centre Pompidou in Paris. It was an amazing curatorial triumph, although, truth be told, I’m not a big Dali fan.

Shhh – don’t tell anyone!

I’ve also included a selection of novels inspired by modern art that are listed on my sister website, Art In Fiction. Quite a few of the big names in 20th-century art have sparked the imaginations of authors.

So, without further preamble, let’s get to it. Drum roll, please! 

Map of Modern Art Museums in Europe

Here are the locations of all the modern art museums covered in the post–from Bilbao (#1) in Spain to the Tate St. Ives (#12) in Cornwall, England.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

Bilbao, Spain: The Guggenheim Museum

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao (#1 on the map) is worth the hype and worth the trip. Located in the Basque region of northeast Spain, Bilbao isn’t on the beaten tourist path.

But please, if you’re in Spain and within striking distance of Bilbao, find the time to spend a night there.

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao was built to revive the failing industrial city. How marvelous that the city bigwigs used art to pull their city out of the economic doldrums and place it firmly on the world cultural map.

The move was bold, even audacious, but it’s paid off spectacularly, thanks to Frank Gehry’s awesome structure. Now the Guggenheim Bilbao shows up in just about every Top Ten list of modern art museums worldwide.

Exterior of the Guggenheim Bilbao

The exterior of the Guggenheim Bilbao plays a major role in its spectacular appeal to art lovers. Stroll around outside the building to see the many amazing sculptures. Most notable are Tall Trees and The Eye by Anish Kapoor, the massive spider Maman by Louise Bourgeois, and the wildly popular Puppy by Jeff Koons.

I defy anyone to stand in front of Puppy and not smile. He is adorable, if a 43-foot tall, flower-encrusted West Highland Terrier can be called adorable. 

Sculpture called Tall Tree and the Eye by Anish Kapoor Outside the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain
Sculpture by Anish Kapoor outside the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain
Sculpture called "Maman" by Louise Bourgeois in front of the Guggenheim, Bilbao
Sculpture called Maman by Louise Bourgeois in front of the Guggenheim, Bilbao

Inside the Guggenheim Bilbao

The museum’s interior is as compelling as its exterior.

On one of our visits, we were lucky to catch a major exhibition of recent landscapes by David Hockney. The massive galleries and thoughtful curatorial choices made the exhibition one of our favorites, which is saying something.

We were also taken with the massive installations by Frank Serra. 

The whole Guggenheim complex with its gorgeous setting on the Nervion River really is miraculous. The museum attracts over 20 million visitors annually.

Now, that’s an art success story!

Exhibitions at the Guggenheim Bilbao change frequently so check what’s on and then plan your visit accordingly. You won’t regret devoting time to exploring the Basque region of Spain. 

For more information about Bilbao and suggestions for accommodations, see these posts:


Bratislava, Slovakia: Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum

Situated on the Danube as the name suggests and about 20 kilometers from Bratislava in the Slovak Republic, the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum is billed as “one of the most romantic museums of modern art in Europe”.

The museum, opened in 2000, was founded by Gerard Meulensteen of Eindhoven, a Dutch collector and art patron, and Slovak gallerist Vincent Polakovič.

Exterior of the Danubiana Meluesteen Art Museum in Bratislava, Slovak Republic
Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum website. Used with permission

The collection includes works by artists from the experimental CoBrA group in the Netherlands, such as Karel Appel and Eugen Brands . Also included are works by Sam Francis, Christo, Corneille, Pierre Alechinsky, and others. 

Plenty of quirky and colorful outdoor sculptures along with the dramatic setting on the Danube make this museum a must-see if you’re traveling to Bratislava.

Sculptures outside the Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum in Bratislava, Slovak Republic
Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum website. Used with permission.

London, England: Tate Modern

I’ve visited the Tate Modern a few times and have mixed feelings about it, to be honest! It’s a monumental place and a huge accomplishment from an architectural perspective.

I mean, seriously—a power station?

It’s pretty darned amazing that Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron could convert the Bankside power station into a gallery and still keep much of the building’s original character.

View of the Tate Modern from the Thames in London, England
View of the Tate Modern from the Thames in London, England

I can’t say I loved—or even liked—all the art exhibited in the Tate Modern. Several exhibits comprise contemporary and installation art, most of which was kind of hit or miss, in my opinion.

However, the special exhibitions can be spectacular. I’ve seen a wonderful retrospective of the work of American artist Georgia O’Keeffe on one visit, and an exhibition of international surrealism on another visit. My husband, Gregg Simpson, was honored to be included in the catalog for the latter exhibition.

Location of the Tate Modern

The location of the Tate Modern on the south side of the Thames, right across the new Millennium Bridge from St. Paul’s Cathedral, is a selling point. You can see the Tate Modern in the morning and then stroll across the bridge and visit St. Paul’s and the City in the afternoon.

You can also take in two Tates in a day. A good strategy is to start at the Tate Britain upriver. Check out the paintings by William Blake and some of the best works by the pre-Raphaelites. Then, hop on the Tate Boat at Millbank Pier and sail downriver to Bankside Pier to see the Tate Modern.

The Tate Boat runs every twenty to thirty minutes along the Thames. For more about the Tate Modern and London in general, check out these posts:

And if you happen be down in St. Ives in Cornwall, don’t miss the Tate St. Ives. See the end of this post for more information.


Madrid, Spain: Reina Sofia

The Reina Sofia is home to one of the most famous paintings of the 20th century—Guernica by Pablo Picasso.

You’ve likely seen Guernica many times in reproduction. However, seeing the “real thing” is a different story.

The massive mural has pride of place in a room of its own. You can sense how enraged Picasso must have felt as he painted it. Its graphic depiction of the bombing of the old Basque city of Gernika in April 1937 has become an iconic image of the brutality of war. 

Outdoor reproduction of Guernica by Picasso
Outdoor reproduction of Guernica by Picasso / Image by Almudena Sanz from Pixabay

The Reina Sofia is a beautifully designed gallery that combines a modern area with the arched hallways and barred windows of an old hospital. In several rooms, films representing specific 20th-century periods are running. Most are silent-era films, which makes following them a lot easier if your Spanish is minimal.

Included in the Reina Sofia are masterpieces by Salvador Dali, Joan Miró, and Juan Gris, as well as a collection of over 22,400 works divided into three sections titled: The Irruption of the 20th Century: Utopia and Conflict (1900-1945)Is the War Over? Art in a Divided World (1945-1968), and From Revolt to Postmodernity (1962-1982).  

Visiting the Reina Sofia

The museum is located on the Art Walk (Paseo del Arte)—a one-kilometer stretch that also includes the must-see Prado Museum and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum.

For more information about Madrid and suggestions for accommodations, see these posts:


Munich, Germany: Pinakothek der Moderne

The Pinakothek der Modern in central Munich is one of three Pinakotheks in Munich’s Kunstareal (art district).

The museum features an excellent collection of the works of German Expressionist artists.

In addition, you’ll find works by modern masters, including Picasso, Miró, Kandinsky, Klee, and Marc.

Other exhibits are related to form and function in a section that features modern industrial design and manufacture, furniture, and appliances.

On Sundays, the admission price is significantly discounted—at least it was when I visited. After strolling through the galleries, stop by the café.

For more information about Munich and suggestions for accommodations, see these posts:


Otterlo, Netherlands: Kröller-Müller Museum

I was 18 years old and traveling on my own for the first time in Europe when I visited the Kröller-Müller Museum. Located in the fantastically unexpected Dutch National Park (Nationaal Park De Hoge Veluwe) outside Otterlo and not far from Arnhem, this museum is a must-see

To say that the Kröller-Müller blew me away that first visit would be an understatement. Fresh off the plane from North America, I’d seen nothing like it in my North-American life.

The Kröller-Müller Museum is light, airy, and filled with famous works by van Gogh and a load of other great painters.

Even better, the museum is smack in the middle of the Dutch National Park. This amazing park teems with deer, rolling sand hills, intriguing forests, and miles of bike paths.

Visiting the Kröller-Müller Museum

When I revisited the museum with Gregg recently, I was thrilled to discover that the Kröller-Müller and the park are as awesome as I remembered.

Everything about the place is perfect!

The museum includes dozens of paintings by van Gogh, room after room of other greats from the 19th and early 20th centuries, a massive sculpture garden, and even a bustling outdoor café with excellent food.

The word that comes to mind when touring the sculpture garden is serendipity. The sculptures are modern and diverse and often positioned in unexpected places.

Every turn of a pathway through forests and across green clipped lawns reveals yet another vista and another sculpture—stone or wood or marble, some moving, some static, some aesthetically stunning, some quirky, a few ugly, and yet all perfect. 

Floating sculpture in the grounds of the  Kröller-Müller Museum in the Netherlands
Floating sculpture on the grounds of the Kröller-Müller Museum in the Netherlands

Getting to the Kröller-Müller Museum

If you’re a fan of van Gogh and modern sculpture but haven’t visited the Kröller-Müller, then go.

Take a day tour from Amsterdam, or better, drive and stay a few days in the area. We combined our visit to the Kröller-Müller with a bike ride around a portion of the 55-square-kilometer national park.

Explore a remarkably varied landscape that includes stunningly beautiful forests, heathlands, and sand dunes. You’ll spot impressively antlered deer, wild boar, foxes, sheep, and more.

Red deer stag in the Dutch National Park the Veluwe
Red deer stag in the Dutch National Park at Hoge Veluwe

For more information about the Netherlands and suggestions for accommodations, see Visiting the Netherlands: My Top Tips for an Artsy Trip


Paris, France: Centre Pompidou

My most recent experience with the Pompidou Center (one of my absolute favorite modern art museums in Europe) was fraught with pure terror.

Gregg and I were trying to find an art gallery on an obscure side street that even Google Maps couldn’t find. The gallery was hosting an exhibition of Gregg’s work, so finding it was a matter of some urgency.

I directed Gregg to turn down what I trusted was the right street. He drove a short block over cobblestones to emerge into a wide, pedestrian-only space that butted up against the back end of the massive Pompidou Center. 

Mon Dieu!

I looked up at the crazy exoskeleton of pipes and glass that had horrified Parisians when it was first built and yelled a few choice curses into my phone. The Google Maps lady was not impressed. She continued to insist that we drive across the square.

Exterior of the Pompidou Center in Paris, France
Exterior of the Pompidou Center in Paris

Luckily, the space was relatively empty of people (a rare event) so Gregg was able to execute a hasty U-turn and head smartly down the correct street. The only problem was that the street was one-way, and we were barreling down it the wrong way.

Fortunately, we found the gallery without having a head-on collision. A few hours later, after unloading the paintings and hanging the show, we were swanning about the vernissage (the opening), champagne glasses in hand.

Phew!

Visiting the Centre Pompidou

Every time we visit Paris, we make a beeline for the Pompidou. Its special exhibitions are almost always excellent.

Check what’s on before coming to Paris and adjust your dates accordingly. One of our favorite special exhibitions featured the work of Gerhard Richter way back in 2012. I was impressed both by the range and styles of Richter’s work and the thoughtful way in which the exhibit was curated. 

No matter when you go to the Pompidou, you’ll always have the legendary fourth floor to wander through. This floor features the museum’s permanent collection and is a veritable “who’s who” of early 20th-century modern art.

All the most famous names are represented. Enjoy strolling through the rooms picking out your favorites and reveling in the glorious mishmash of colors and forms that characterizes 20th-century modern art.

After sighing your way around the art, take the escalator to the rooftop to relish one of the best views of the Paris skyline.

For information about other art museums in Paris, check out Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris and Love Among the Recipes: Paris Sights & Bistro Dishes. For more about Paris and France in general, see Visiting France: My Best Tips for Enjoying an Artsy Trip.


Rome’s National Gallery of Modern Art (Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna) is conveniently located on the edge of the Borghese Gardens, surely one of Europe’s most beguiling parks. 

View of the Temple of Asclepius at Villa Borghese Gardens in Rome
View of the Temple of Asclepius at Villa Borghese Gardens in Rome

The gallery features an excellent collection of 20th-century Italian painters, including Giorgio de Chirico (a particular favorite), Amedeo Modigliani, Antonio Canova, Giacomo Balla, and Giorgio Morandi. You’ll also find works by Rodin, Degas, van Gogh, Monet, Duchamp, Man Ray, and Pollock.

Unlike the Vatican and the other Renaissance and ancient Roman attractions of Rome, the gallery is sparsely attended and therefore extremely pleasant.

After your visit, stroll along the shaded pathways of the Borghese Gardens. 

For more information about Rome, Italy and where to stay, see these posts:


Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France: Fondation Maeght

The Fondation Maeght makes just about every list of must-see art museums in Europe. While not the largest modern art museum in Europe, the Maeght is one of the most respected and also the most beautifully situated.

The Maeght is near the charming village of Saint Paul-de-Vence, not far from Cannes and Nice in the south of France. 

Carol Cram on the grounds of the fabulous Fondation Maeght in the south of France
On the grounds of the fabulous Fondation Maeght in the south of France

I can’t say that every exhibition we’ve seen at the Fondation Maeght has been great. However, you still ought to visit if you’re in the area. When the exhibitions are good, they are extremely good.

The Fondation Maeght is a private foundation that was conceived and funded by Aimé and Marguerite Maeght to exhibit modern art. The Maeghts had several artist friends, including Georges Braque, Alexander Calder, Marc Chagall, Alberto Giacometti, Fernand Léger, and Joan Miró, who from the get-go donated or sold their work to the Foundation.

As Miró emphasized, the Fondation Maeght “…must before all be a place for art that remains alive.”

Visiting the Fondation Maeght

We first visited the Fondation Maeght in the 1990s during our first family trip to Europe with our young daughter. It was love at first sight!

Highlights include the giant sculptures by so many of the great 20th-century modern artists, including Miró, Giacometti, Arp, and Calder; spectacular views across the hills of the Riviera to the turquoise Mediterranean; and an airy modernist gallery. 

You can visit the Fondation Maeght on a tour, but you’d be best off spending at least a few nights exploring the area and visiting the Maeght for a few hours at the beginning or end of the day when the light is best for photography.  

For more about traveling in France, check out 17 Must-See Places to Visit in France You Should Know About.


Venice, Italy: Peggy Guggenheim Collection

If I were to pick a favorite modern art museum from this Must-See list, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice would rank in the top three.

Located right smack on the Grand Canal in the Dorsoduro district of magical Venice between Santa Maria della Salute and the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection just makes me smile. I can’t visit it often enough!

Carol next to a statue of a horse in front of the Peggy
Guggenheim Museum in Venice.

The museum houses Peggy Guggenheim’s personal collection of 20th-century art, including masterpieces of cubism, surrealism, and abstract expressionism.

Gregg is a huge fan of Max Ernst, to whom Peggy was married for a time. Several of Ernst’s marvelous paintings are featured in the collection. Other artists in the permanent collection include Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian. It really is an embarrassment of 20th-century riches.

If you’re in Venice, take a break from the Renaissance and cross the canal to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Wander the cool halls of her renovated palazzo to view the paintings and sculptures, then descend the steps to the edge of the canal and watch the boats go by. 

Venice panorama city skyline at Venice Grand Canal, Venice Italy
Venice panorama city skyline at Venice Grand Canal, Venice Italy

Find more information about Venice, Italy, and where to stay in these posts:


Louisiana Museum of Modern Art Near Copenhagen, Denmark

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (#11 on the map at the top of this post) is about a 30-minute train ride north of Copenhagen. It’s world-renowned as one of Europe’s best modern art museums, and therefore a must-visit for the Artsy Traveler!

Check what exhibitions are on, but even if they don’t appeal, visit the museum anyway. It makes for a lovely morning out from Copenhagen. You reach it by train (covered by the Copenhagen Card) followed by a pleasant 20-minute stroll along a suburban road to the museum.

After visiting the exhibitions, head outside where the real stars of the museum are located.

Sculpture by Miro at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art near Copenhagen
Sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art near Copenhagen, Denmark

For more information about the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, check out my post: A Trio of Must-See Museums in Copenhagen.


Tate St. Ives in Cornwall, England

The Tate St. Ives (#12) is a delightfully compact and easy-to-tour museum overlooking the sea in lovely little St. Ives. I visited on a recent trip to Cornwall, and was lucky to sit in on two curator talks about local artist Robert Lanyon. Here’s one of his pieces.

Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon at the Tate St. Ives
Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon

For more about my visit to the Tate St. Ives, check out Get the Best Out of Southwest England on a Rabbie’s Small Group Tour.

Novels Inspired by Modern Art on Art In Fiction

Modern art is still under-served by authors, at least compared to that of the Renaissance. Fortunately, my sister site, Art In Fiction, includes a selection of modern-art inspired novels. 

Get your modern art hit with these novels.

Modern Art by Evelyn Toynton – The life of Jackson Pollock’s widow Lee Krasner provides the raw material for this strong, assured debut novel (Publisher’s Weekly).

The Season of Migration by Nellie Hermann – A profoundly imaginative, original, and heartbreaking vision of the early years of Vincent van Gogh, before he became the artist we know today. 

Abstract Aliases by Ritter Ames – Book 3 in The Bodies of Art mystery series presents abstract clues that lead to new questions that turn to “dead” ends. It’s an action-packed romp that’s impossible to put down.

Costalegre by Courtney Maum – Set in 1937 in the haute-bohemian circles of Austria, Germany, and Paris, this novel is heavily inspired by the real-life relationship between the heiress Peggy Guggenheim and her daughter, Pegeen.

Cooking for Picasso by Camille Aubray: a touching story of the choices that men and women make as they seek a path toward love, success, and joie de vivre.

Sightseeing Tips

I’ve included links in this post to purchase fast track or skip-the-line tickets from Tiqets.com.

I highly recommend purchasing tickets ahead of time when you’re traveling in Europe. Major art museums are increasingly crowded, with long lines that sap your sightseeing energy. Who can enjoy art after standing for an hour under the hot sun waiting to buy tickets?

Purchase your tickets well in advance of your visit or even the night before from your hotel room. Then enjoy a leisurely breakfast before strolling straight into the museum past the long lines of tourists who did not book ahead. You’ll be sighing in front of some of the world’s great masterpieces in no time!

I prefer to use one website to book all my tickets so I can easily keep track of which venue I’m seeing on which day. You can also book directly with most of the venues; however, you sometimes need to print the tickets, which can be awkward when you’re traveling. I keep all my tickets easily available on my phone which is why I use Tiqets.com.

Have you been to any of the modern art museums covered in this post? What did you think? Share your impressions and recommendations with other artsy travelers in the Comments section below.