Front of the Basque museum in Bayonne France

Unique Museums in Europe to Put On Your List

One of the many joys of traveling is discovering new-to-you museums, particularly artsy ones!

While world class must-see museums such as the Louvre and the Rijksmuseum are awesome, they can also be very crowded and a tad overwhelming. You can’t see more than a fraction of the collection in any one visit.

A small, specialty museum is a different story. Usually, the museum won’t be crowded, and if there are attendants, you may be able to engage them in conversation about the collection. On a visit to the Keats-Shelley house in Rome last year, I had a great chat with the attendant about some of my favorite Romantic literary figures.

In this collaboration post, I bring together experiences submitted by 13 fellow travelers and bloggers, including myself in the first post about the Basque and Bayonne History Museum in Bayonne, France.

You’re sure to find a museum to put on your next itinerary! I know I already have.

Bayonne, France: Basque and Bayonne History Museum

By Carol M. Cram of ArtsyTraveler

The Basque people have long fascinated me, so I was delighted to discover the Basque and Bayonne History Museum in Bayonne, France.

Thoughtful exhibits chronicling the history of the Basque people in France span three floors and twenty rooms. Multiple aspects of Basque culture are featured, including its origins and language, funeral rites, rural life and architecture, domestic life and crafts, maritime and river activities, festivals and games, and regional history.

I particularly enjoyed the many old films of Basque people from over 100 years ago. One featured the haunting sounds of mountain people calling across valleys.

The collection is the richest in France solely devoted to social life in the Northern Basque Country. It’s housed in the Maison Dagourette, a 17th Century port residence. If you’re visiting Bayonne, I highly recommend taking the time to tour this museum and learn about one of Europe’s most intriguing and oldest cultures.

The Basque and Bayonne History museum is located at 37 quai des Corsaires in Bayonne in southwest France and is open year-round, from Tuesday to Sunday. Check the website for details.


Santorini, Greece: Santorini Wine Museum 

By Mal of RentingACarInEurope101

As wine lovers, a visit to the Wine Museum was one of the best things we did during our  Santorini trip. The museum is located 5 km from the island’s capital, Fira, and you can visit it independently or as part of a wine tour, which we did. The museum is set in a traditional cave house, which was once part of a family winery, which really adds to the unique experience! 

The whole place is dedicated to showcasing the island’s rich wine making tradition, which dates back thousands of years.

The museum displays ancient wine making tools, artifacts, and exhibits that detail the process of making wine from antiquity to the present day. 

The best part of our visit was the wine tasting itself. It took place in an elegant cellar. You can choose between five different packages that include also snacks such as home-made bread and cheese. The tickets start at €25 per person. Each wine you taste comes with a detailed explanation so you can learn about Santorini wine while tasting it. 

The Koutsogiannopoulos Winery in Santorini, Greece, featuring a bright red-orange entrance with a rustic wine press and a spiral staircase against traditional Cycladic architecture under a clear blue sky.

Glasgow, Scotland: The St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art

By Paulina from the UK Every Day

In Glasgow, St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art is situated in picturesque Cathedral Square, right next to the historic Glasgow Cathedral. This museum is conveniently included in the Glasgow Hop On Hop Off Bus Tour, with the stunning Glasgow Cathedral being the second stop on the route, making it an easy addition to your sightseeing itinerary.

The museum’s collection features an impressive array of artifacts, ranging from ancient Egyptian relics to contemporary pieces, providing visitors with a rich understanding of the universal human quest for spirituality.

Entry to St Mungo Museum is free, and it stands out as one of the few museums worldwide dedicated exclusively to this fascinating subject.

After you’ve taken the time to explore the museum’s intriguing exhibits, consider treating yourself to a meal at the nearby Italian eatery, Celentano’s. This charming restaurant is located in the historic part of Glasgow, just a stone’s throw away from both the Glasgow Cathedral and the St Mungo Museum.

If you’re looking for a longer stay, you can also book a room at Celentano’s, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the rich culture and history of Glasgow.

A serene museum exhibit featuring a central Buddha statue, flanked by glass display cases with religious artifacts. Stained glass windows in the background depict Christian figures.

Warsaw, Poland: Neon Museum

By Juan from Planet of Adventures

If you’re looking for a fascinating places to visit in Poland, look no further than the Neon Museum in Warsaw.

Named one of the best museums to visit in Europe by The Guardian, Warsaw’s Neon Museum boasts hundreds of neon signs that tell the story of Poland post WWII. What at first just seem to be functional objects are in reality pieces of art by themselves. The atmosphere of darkness and light in the museum creates an experience like no other.

This is not only an unusual museum but it’s one that made such an impact on me that ever since I visited it I keep spotting neon signs wherever I travel in the world!

The museum opens daily from 12:00 to 18:00 and is closed on Tuesdays. The entry ticket is about €4. To visit it, you can walk about 40 minutes from the Old Town or take the 26 tram from the Royal Castle. 

The area around the Neon Museum has several trendy cafes as nearby there’s also a University campus and the Soho Art Center.

I recommend you in one of the many traditional apartments in the old town of Warsaw for a more authentic experience.

A dimly lit indoor exhibition with vibrant neon signs, including the word "Berlin" glowing in red and various other illuminated letters and symbols creating a retro ambiance.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands: KattenKabinet (Cat Cabinet)

By Kristy of Tassie Devil Abroad

Amsterdam is a great destination for cat lovers, with many resident cats, a cat café, a floating cat shelter, and the KattenKabinet; a museum entirely dedicated to art featuring cats. 

Taking up four rooms on the second floor of a beautiful canal house (plus the garden), the KattenKabinet is crammed full of cat paintings, sketches, advertisements, sculptures and more. Some of the most unique items on display include an original costume from the musical Cats, a pinball machine made of Lucky Cat figures and a mummified cat from around 200 BC. There are even original pieces by Picasso and Rembrandt. 

While the museum is small, the items on display are unique and quirky. The gift shop is also well worth checking out.

See more photos here, including some shots of the real-life resident cats who often wander around the museum as well. Just be warned – don’t try to pet the black and white cat as he doesn’t appreciate it!

The KattenKabinet is located at Herengracht 497, a short walk from Rembrandtplein. Tickets cost €12.50 for adults, but there is a discount for those using the I Amsterdam City Card, as well as discounts for seniors and students.

To keep the cat theme going you could stay at nearby Hotel Estherea (it’s close enough to walk to the KattenKabinet from the hotel), a stunning hotel in a 17th-century canal house which is also home to three resident cats who like to hang out in the common areas. 

For dining near the KattenKabinet, I recommend checking out Lion Noir, which is one street over. No real cats here, unfortunately, but they do serve delicious contemporary French cuisine in a beautiful space and hey, lions are cats too!

A lavish room in the KattenKabinet museum in Amsterdam, showcasing cat-themed artwork, sculptures, and antique furniture. The walls are covered in rich red fabric with gold accents.

Lisbon, Portugal: The National Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo)

By De Wet & Jin of Museum of Wander

The National Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo) in Lisbon is dedicated to showcasing the art of traditional Portuguese tilework, known as azulejos.

Housed in the former Convent of Madre de Deus, the museum guides visitors through the history of Portuguese tiles, from the 15th century to contemporary designs. The exhibits feature stunning displays of decorative tiles in various shapes, sizes, and styles, including religious scenes, historical narratives, and intricate geometric patterns.

One of the standout pieces is a large, panoramic tile panel depicting Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake. This classic blue and white Grand Panorama of Lisbon measures nearly 23 meters and portrays the city along a 14-kilometer stretch of coastline.

The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions, workshops, and a café in a beautiful cloistered courtyard. Anyone with an interest in Portugal’s cultural history will enjoy visiting this museum. Creative souls will want to prioritize the museum on their Lisbon itinerary, as they will find plenty of inspiration for future projects.

The Tile Museum is located at Rua Me, Deus 4 in the Xabregas district. The hours are Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM (closed on Mondays) and the entry fee is €5 (free with Lisboa Card). Check their website for more information.

Recommended Hotel: Duques Villa Luxury Guesthouse, located just a few hundred meters from the museum.

Recommended Restaurant: Soul Kitchen & Bar, known for its beautiful tapas-style dishes that include creative interpretations of Angolan and Cabo Verdean cuisine.

A panoramic blue-and-white tile mural depicting a historic cityscape of Lisbon, displayed along a curved red wall inside a museum. Two visitors admire the artwork.

The Hague, Netherlands: Escher in the Palace

By Daniela of Exploring the Netherlands

Escher in the Palace is perhaps one of the most unique art museums in the Netherlands. Housed in a former royal palace in The Hague, it exhibits an extensive collection of M.C. Escher’s masterpieces. So, basically you are visiting two sites in one.

The Queen Mother, Queen Emma (1858-1934) used to live in this palace, which then was called Lange Voorhout Palace and was her winter residence. Queen Emma is the great-great grandmother of Willem-Alexander, the current King of the Netherlands.

Since 2002 the Palace houses a permanent exhibition about the life and work of the extraordinary Dutch artist M. C. Escher (1898-1972). Escher was inspired by mathematics and the tessellations in Alhambra (Granada) and La Mezquita (Cordoba). He explored infinity, symmetry, perspective, and impossible objects in his art. Today, there are about 120 works of Escher exhibited in the Palace.

After visiting the palace and the exhibitions, stop for a piece of cake and a cup of coffee at the Museum’s café which is housed in the Palace’s original kitchen. The setting is really unique.

The Museum is located the city centre. It’s very close to other attractions in The Hague, like the Mauritshuis and Binnenhof, and the Central Train Station. In 2025, the entry ticket for the museum is 13,50 EUR. Talking about palaces, when visiting The Hague, why not stay in a former palace? Just across the Museum is the emblematic Hotel des Indes, the former palace of Baron van Brienen. Prices start at about 250 EUR per night.

A stately historic palace in The Hague, Netherlands, featuring a symmetrical facade, grand windows, and a banner advertising an Escher exhibition. A few visitors stand at the entrance.

Innsbruck, Austria: Schloss Ambras

By Lavina D’Souza from Continent Hop

When it comes to under-the-touristy-radar locations, Schloss Ambras in Innsbruck,Austria ranks at the top of the list. I was glad I decided to visit the Schloss Ambras, a Renaissance castle complex where the fascinating collections date back to the 1560s and tell you tales of centuries-old history, politics, culture, and art. 

Today, the Ambras Castle Museum is proud to preserve the original armour suits that are more than 450 years old. You will also get to see a thousand miniature portraits dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries.

There is a late medieval sculpture made of pear wood, which is a highlight of the collection. I was amazed by the artworks that adorn the Spanish Hall. With so many interesting things on display, Schloss Ambras deserves a spot in your Austria itinerary.  

If you are looking for hotels nearby, consider staying at Hotel Bierwirt as it is only 10 minutes away from Schloss Ambras. I loved the laid-back vibes and delicious food at Café-Restaurant Martin. 

Ambras Castle is open every day from 10 am to 5 pm and is closed only in November. The ticket price is € 14 for adults and € 12 for students and senior citizens. You can check the season opening and closing times along with detailed ticket prices here

A historic European manor, Schloss Ambras, featuring a white facade with a steeply pitched roof and multiple dormer windows. A covered balcony with red wooden beams runs along the second floor, overlooking a manicured garden with neatly trimmed hedges and a decorative gazebo. The scene is framed by lush greenery, creating a peaceful atmosphere.

Mougins, France – Femmes Artistes Musee Mougins

By Theresa of Explore the Riviera

The FAMM (Femmes Artistes Musee Mougins) opened in June 2024 in the French Riviera village of Mougins, becoming Europe’s first art museum dedicated entirely to female artists. With around 100 works by 90 accomplished talents from around the world, this museum encompasses four floors of a building that previously was the Mougins Museum of Classical Art.

Wandering into the first gallery, you’ll immediately be surrounded by the soft brush strokes of Impressionism, including paintings by Berthe Morisot, Eva Gonzalès, and Monet – Blanche Hoschedé-Monet, that is. Despite being the step-daughter and eventual daughter-in-law of the Impressionist master Claude Monet, Blanche’s 300 works are rarely displayed publicly.

Continue through each floor of the museum to observe the galleries transition in succession to highlight female artists from various 20th-century modern art eras, like Frida Kahlo and Leonora Carrington, who are associated with Surrealism.

You’ll also notice a collection of large floor-to-ceiling canvases displaying both harmonious and dissonant abstract works by artists like Joan Mitchell and Alma Thomas.

Located along the medieval streets of Old Town Mougins, the FAMM is easy to visit during any day trip from nearby cities like Nice, Cannes, or Antibes. Mougins also makes a great homebase with luxury stays like Le Mas Candille and a storied gastronomical legacy, featuring Michelin-recommended restaurants like Bohème and La Place de Mougins.

The FAMM is open every day and admission costs $16 per adult.

**Alt Text**: A framed painting of Claude Monet’s "The Japanese Bridge," displayed in the FAMM Museum in Mougins, France. The artwork features a lush garden scene with a wooden bridge over a pond, surrounded by greenery and pink flowers. The ornate gold frame contrasts with the deep purple walls of the gallery.

Barcelona, Spain: Moco Museum

By Jill of Jill on Journey

While Barcelona offers some well-known museums such as the Picasso Museum, Moco Museum is more of a hidden gem in Barcelona. Yet, it’s very worth seeing.

You can find Pop Culture art with interesting pieces of Andy Warhol, as well as some Banksy artworks in there.

Especially because it is not as huge as other art museums, you can take your time and will still be able to marvel at all of it.

It is located close to Barcelona’s center in Carrer de Montcada 25.

Ticket prices vary depending on your selected time of entry. Morning tickets (entry slot between 10:00 a.m. and 10:45 a.m.) and evening tickets (entry between 6:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m.) are a bit cheaper at 13.95 Euros. The rest of the day an adult ticket is at 16.95 Euros.

Close by you can find a lovely tapas bar called Bubita Sangria Bar serving vegan tapas, paella and different types of sangria to enjoy.

Located in the lively Ciutat Vella district, H10 Cubik Eco Hotel is not far from Moco Museum. You can reach it within 13 minutes on foot.

So when you travel to Barcelona, don’t miss this unique art museum. 

A bronze sculpture of a distorted humanoid figure with elongated arms and drawers emerging from its torso, inspired by Salvador Dalí’s surrealist art. Displayed in a vaulted brick gallery, the piece is accompanied by a quote about art and enlightenment on the wall behind it.

Basel, Switzerland: Fondation Beyeler

by Stephanie from Bey of Travel

The Fondation Beyeler in Riehen, near Basel, is a must-visit for art lovers. Housing the exceptional collection of Hildy and Ernst Beyeler, it showcases around 300 masterpieces from Classic Modernism and beyond, spanning the 20th and 21st centuries. 

You’ll encounter works by renowned artists like Picasso, Monet, Rothko, and Warhol, displayed within a stunning space designed by Pritzker-winning architect Renzo Piano. The museum seamlessly blends art, architecture, and nature, nestled amidst tranquil gardens and a serene pond.

To make the most of your visit, plan your trip using public transportation as parking is limited. 

The museum, located at Baselstrasse 101, 4125 Riehen, is open every day of the year. Tickets cost 30 CHF for adults, or 15 CHF if you have a BaselCard. Allow yourself a few hours to truly immerse yourself in the art and perhaps enjoy a moment of reflection in the surrounding landscape.

A contemporary art gallery at the Fondation Beyeler, featuring a minimalist design with a glass ceiling and wooden floors. Framed paintings, including works by Francis Bacon, line the walls, while a string of hanging lights adds a dynamic element. A sign in the background announces an exhibition by Doris Salcedo titled Palimpsest, with two visitors visible in the distance.

Tirana, Albania: Bunk’Art 2 Museum

By Alina of World of Lina

If you’re a history lover like me, a visit to the Bunk’Art 2 museum is one of the best things to do in Tirana. Situated in a former nuclear bunker, this museum offers an immersive experience that takes you deep into Albania’s communist past.

During my visit, I was captivated by the exhibits that combine historical artifacts, photographs, and multimedia displays to tell the complex story of life under Albania’s regime. Some parts of the museum, like the interrogation room and displays of torture methods, are intense, but they provide a raw and powerful look at Albania’s turbulent history.

You can expect to see a variety of exhibits that highlight the country’s social, political, and cultural landscape during the communist era.

When planning your visit, Bunk’Art 2 is open daily from 9:40 am to 8:00 pm. Tickets cost LEK 500 for standard entry or LEK 700 if you’d like to include an audio tour. I recommend setting aside 1.5 to 2 hours to fully explore the museum. You can find more information on their website. 

If you’re looking for somewhere to stay nearby, I suggest the Xheko Imperial Hotel, just a 15-minute walk away. This luxurious hotel offers a comfortable stay with modern amenities and a welcoming atmosphere.

A dome-shaped concrete bunker turned into a museum entrance, labeled "MUSEUM" on a metal plate at the entrance. The structure has a weathered exterior with visible streaks of discoloration. A military-style vehicle with "BUNKART" written on the windshield is parked next to it, and a few pedestrians walk nearby. The sky is cloudy, and a construction crane is visible in the background.

Seville, Spain: Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo (CAAC)

Recommended by Jamie of What’s down that street?

Housed in the vast, atmospheric grounds of a former monastery and ceramics factory, Seville’s premier modern art gallery is as much about the space as the art inside it.

Focused on Andalusian artists, such as Luis Gordillo and Carmen Laffrón, CAAC’s collection also showcases works from Spanish and international artists. And with a full visit costing just 3€, it’s very affordable.

But the real draw here is the building itself – a 15th century monastery frequently visited by Christopher Columbus, which had a second life as a ceramics factory.

Cloisters and chapels now exhibit edgy, often experimental work. The contrast between the Christian architecture, the art, and traditional Sevillian 19th century ceramics make it a truly unique gallery.

CAAC is in the Cartuja Island district of Seville, a little away from the main old town. It feels almost like a secret. We visited off-season and almost had the place to ourselves.

Just 15 minutes away is lively Triana, with excellent tapas bars. A personal favourite in the area is Bodeguita Albero. For somewhere to stay, I’d recommend crossing the river to Hotel NH Sevilla Plaza de Armas. Visit CAAC’s website for more information.

Interior of the entro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo (CAAC) in Seville, Spain showing Moorish columns and rounded arches.

Conclusion

Have you found some new museums to explore? I hope so! And if you’ve visited some off-the-beaten path museums you think other artsy traveler may enjoy, please share in the comments.

Other posts about museums in Europe on Artsy Traveler:

Carol Cram stands in front of the Museum of Vancouver, a futuristic looking white building with a saucer shaped roof and a fountain sculpture at the entrance. The building is labeled as the Museum of Vancouver, and the bright blue sky enhances the structure's architectural design.

The Vancouver Museum & Granville Island: A Great Day Out

If you’re looking for a family-friendly outing in Vancouver, carve out a few hours to visit the Vancouver Museum (AKA the Museum of Vancouver).

After getting a good hit of cultural history, walk the seawall or hop on the False Creek ferry to Granville Island for lunch and shopping.

At the Museum of Vancouver (MOV), you’ll discover the cultural history of the city. A series of exhibits take you on a journey past hundreds of artifacts used by individuals and communities that have called the area home.

A graphic promoting "The Vancouver Museum & Granville Island," featuring a view of Vancouver Museum with the author Carol Cram in front above the text and a little ferry on the water in English Bay in Vancouver among many other anhored boats below the text.

Highlights of Your Vancouver Day

Introduction

I’ve lived in Vancouver all my life. I remember when the Museum of Vancouver was built in 1968. I also remember when, in 1979, Granville Island was transformed from an industrial wasteland to a major Vancouver tourist attraction.

On a recent bright and sunny January day, I joined the throngs of Vancouverites who emerge when the sun shines and headed for Kitsilano. This laid-back residential area is one of Vancouver’s most beautiful with its huge saltwater pool and mountain views from Kitsilano Beach.

Here, I toured the Museum of Vancouver and then rode the False Creek ferry to Granville Island for lunch and shopping.

The spectacular views of this area of Vancouver never get old.

Carol Cram stands by a tree on the edge of a scenic waterfront. Sailboats float in the blue water, with mountains and clear skies in the background.

Whether you’re a local or a visitor, make time to visit the Vancouver Museum. Then, get yourself over to bustling Granville Island, an especially enjoyable outing on a sunny day.

Locations

The Museum of Vancouver (#1) is located at 1100 Chestnut Street in Vanier Park (#2) in Vancouver’s Kitsilano neighborhood. It is within the unceded territory of the Musqueam, Squamish, and Tsleil-Waututh Nations.

Vanier Park occupies most of Kitsilano Point and overlooks stunning views of the mountains, the ocean and False Creek. Downtown Vancouver is about a fifteen-minute bus or car ride away. 

Granville Island is located about a 20-minute walk from Vanier Park under the Granville Street Bridge at the edge of False Creek. For decades, the area was a polluted blight on the Vancouver skyline.

After its extensive makeover starting in 1979, Granville Island now teems with shops and activities, including a great area for children and the world-famous Granville Island Public Market (#3).

Map of the Area

This map was created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

Summer Suggestion

In summer, consider this itinerary:

  • Visit the Museum of Vancouver in the morning.
  • Stroll along the seawall or take the False Creek ferry to Granville Island for lunch.
  • Return to the area to enjoy a matinée at Bard on the Beach (#4), a five-minute walk from the MOV.

History of the Museum of Vancouver

Originally located in downtown Vancouver, the museum was founded in 1894 by a group of art and history enthusiasts who amassed a collection of artifacts and donations from local citizens.

In 1968, the building where the museum is now housed was erected in Vanier Park. The MOV shares its iconic building with the Vancouver Planetarium and the H.R. Macmillan Space Centre. The distinctive dome is meant to resemble the woven basket hats made by Northwest Coast First Nations peoples.

Initially called the Centennial Museum and then the Vancouver Museum, the new building was renamed the Museum of Vancouver in 2009 and the museum positioned as the place to go to learn about Vancouver’s cultural history.

I first visited the MOA not long after it opened in 1968 and have continued to revisit every decade or so, sometimes to take in a special exhibition, or to enjoy the fascinating permanent collection. I always find something new to look at and learn.

The MOV is Vancouver’s largest civic museum and features several history galleries, starting with galleries dedicated to the First Nations people who lived on this bountiful land for centuries before contact with people from other parts of the world, primarily Europe and Asia. 

The City Before the City: c̓əsnaʔəm

The first gallery contains The City Before the City exhibition that features c̓əsnaʔəm, the ancestral village of the Musqueam First Nation. On display are bone, stone, and shell objects from c̓əsnaʔəm that have survived for thousands of years.

A close-up of historical artifacts, including stone tools, wooden items, and other indigenous implements, displayed in a glass case with detailed labels describing their origins and uses.

The exhibition is both respectful and informative, with the aim of educating visitors about the people who inhabited the land before it was transformed by the streets and buildings we see today.

Listening stations encourage visitors to slow down, don a pair of headphones, and then watch and listen to videos narrated by First Nations people about their history and the exhibits.

An exhibition showcasing First Nations artifacts and cultural information. The display includes red information panels with indigenous words and visuals, interactive screens, and historical tools arranged on tables under dim museum lighting.

That Which Sustains Us

The focus of the That Which Sustain Us gallery is on the land itself and how interactions with it are shaped by culture. You’ll learn about traditional ecological knowledge in addition to the consequences of deforestation and the urbanization of Vancouver. 

I particularly enjoyed the exhibits showcasing ancestral skills such as making leather from tanning fish skin and creating dye pigments from the mushrooms found in local forests.

Also included is this wall showing words from the Musqueam language.

A grid of wooden blocks displaying an indigenous alphabet, with each block featuring a letter, an illustration, and a corresponding English translation, such as "Raven" and "Salt."

1900s to 1920s: Gateway to the Pacific

I’m a third-generation Vancouverite, with both sets of grandparents settling in Vancouver around 1911, coincidentally a few blocks apart. My maternal grandmother remembers carrying water to their log cabin, and I grew up on stories about the expanding city.

The Gateway to the Pacific gallery features thoughtfully curated displays related to the lives of the early settlers, both European and Asian. Photographs, mannequins dressed in vintage clothing, and an impressive collection of objects bring the era to life.

A museum display depicting pre-World War I commerce. Mannequins dressed in period clothing stand beside a vintage cash register and other business-related items in a glass-enclosed exhibit.

Other displays relate to Vancouver during World War I. My maternal great-grandfather, who was originally from England, left Vancouver in 1914 to fight overseas and was killed in 1916 when my grandmother was just 10 years old.

1930s to 1940s: Boom, Bust, and War

The exhibits in this gallery chronicle the growth of Vancouver through difficult times culminating in World War II. 

A dark stain on the city’s history was the internment of people from the well-established Japanese-Canadian community following the bombing of Pearl Harbor. I know people whose grandparents and parents were relocated to internment camps in the interior of British Columbia. My mother, who lived not far from one of the internment camps in the early 1940s, remembered seeing the displaced people.

My mother moved to Vancouver in 1942 when my grandfather got work in one of the many new factories gearing up production for the war effort, and met my dad in high school. I remember my grandmother’s kitchen looking very similar to this one:

A vintage kitchen exhibit featuring an old-fashioned cream-colored stove, a kettle, and various household items like a dustpan and cloth, showcasing domestic life in the early 20th century.

For many of the people who settled in Vancouver, the post-war city was a hopeful place where home ownership was within reach. That was certainly the case for my family. We moved into our first house in the Kerrisdale neighborhood of Vancouver in 1960.

The exhibits in this gallery bring back fuzzy memories. I got a kick out of the old wringer washer which reminded me of my brother trying to put my Barbie doll through the wringer. He was not successful, as I recall.

An antique "Easy" brand wringer washing machine displayed with a sign explaining its functionality. The machine is white with metallic accents and represents household innovations from the early 20th century.

Check out the display of neon signs. Vancouver was famous for its neon, mostly clustered along Granville Street. The full-size car is a nice touch.

A retro museum exhibit featuring a classic 1950s white car parked under neon signs advertising garage, parking, and gas services. The setup evokes the mid-20th-century American automotive culture.

1960s – 1970s: You Say You Want a Revolution

If you were born prior to the 1970s, you’ll experience a major walk down memory lane in this gallery. And even if you’re not from Vancouver, you’ll likely recognize something of your past in the exhibits. 

As in many places in North America, the 1960s and 1970s in Vancouver were a time of contention. The city was growing fast, with protests, “hippies”, and alternative lifestyles front and center. The environmental group Greenpeace started in Vancouver during this period.

A highlight of this fun yet also thought-provoking gallery was seeing a poster with my husband’s name on it. Gregg Simpson was very active in the art scene during the late 1960s and early 1970s, both as an artist and a musician. 

A poster advertising a "Collage Show" with names like Bill Bissett, Gregg Simpson, Joy Long, Gary Lee Nova, Ian Wallace, and others. The event runs from February 1-14 at "Mandan Ghetto, 2645 W4th," with "Opening 8 PM" highlighted. Decorative graphics, including an angel labeled "God" and a vintage building illustration, adorn the design.

I spent quite a bit of time squinting at the many old photographs in the exhibit to catch a glimpse of him. We weren’t successful, but I did see many familiar names in the old posters and commentaries.

Completing Your Visit

The MOA is not a large museum. You can tour it in about an hour, depending on how long you like to spend reading the wealth of information provided.

After your visit, consider taking one of the adorable False Creek ferries to Granville Island.

MOV Practical Information

Getting There

If you’re visiting Vancouver and staying downtown without a car, your best option is to either take the #2 bus or rent a bicycle (weather permitting). Here are all your options:

Take the Bus

The museum is about a five-minute walk from Cornwall Avenue where the #2 bus stops. Plan your route on Translink.

Take the False Creek Ferry

From various points around False Creek, catch a ferry that stops at the Vancouver Maritime Museum (#5). Then, walk south-east for about five minutes to the museum entrance. If you’re planning on more explorations, consider buying a day pass for the False Creek ferry in advance.

Ride a Bike

Use the Mobi Bike Share service to cycle to Vanier Park. The bike share is located at Chestnut Street and McNicoll Avenue, just west of the MOA.

Walk from Granville Island

Walk west along the seawall for about 15 minutes. Note that in the winter months, the seawall may be closed for maintenance. If that’s the case, retrace your steps and take the ferry.

Drive

From downtown Vancouver:

  • Cross the Burrard Street bridge heading south.
  • Veer right onto Cornwall Street as you come off the bridge.
  • Turn right onto Chestnut Street (this will be the first street).
  • Turn right onto Whyte Avenue.
  • Turn left into the parking lot.

From the south:

  • Take Burrard Street going north.
  • Turn left onto Cornwall Street just before the Burrard Street Bridge.
  • Turn right onto Whyte Avenue.
  • Turn left into the parking lot.

Museum Hours and Ticket Prices

The MOV is open 7 days a week from 10 am to 5 pm. Admission costs $17 for adults, $12 for seniors and students, and $10 for youth ages 6 to 17. Children under five and individuals who self-identify as Indigenous enter for free.

For more information, check the Museum’s FAQ page.

Taking the Ferry to Granville Island

Nineteen little ferries ply the waters of False Creek, stopping at the places shown on the map below. The stop for the Museum of Vancouver is Maritime Museum (Kitsilano Beach).

For a round-trip cost of $10 for adults and $7 for seniors/children, you can take the ferry to Granville Island where you’ll find an excellent indoor market, restaurants, food stalls, and lots of fabulous shops.

I pretty much always find something to buy whenever I visit. On my most recent trip to Granville Island, I couldn’t resist purchasing a gorgeous red leather purse inset with a First Nations design of a raven.

Rates vary depending upon the route and the number of zones covered. If you choose, you can sail all the way to Science World at the easternmost end of False Creek. Check the rates.

The ferries scoot back and forth across False Creek and are a lot of fun to ride:

Catch the ferry from the dock below the Vancouver Maritime Museum, which is about a five-minute walk to the west of the Vancouver Museum.

Buy a return ticket on the ferry (they take credit cards) if you’re parked at the museum, or get a one-way ticket and then take a bus back to your home or accommodation. You can also purchase a day pass and explore more of False Creek.

Granville Island

The Granville Island Public Market is the main attraction on Granville Island. Here, you’ll find a dizzying array of produce, seafood, bakery items, gourmet edibles, gift items, and flowers. Lunch options also abound from food stalls serving up everything from perogies to poke. 

A vibrant market stall filled with colorful fresh produce, including tomatoes, pineapples, bitter melons, and long beans. Handwritten price signs are displayed, and the scene is bustling with bright colors.

Pro Tip: Treat yourself to a cannelle at Le Bise Bakery. They are seriously to die for.

Take your food outside and enjoy it while gazing out at the boats plying the waters of False Creek with the skyline of Vancouver and the mountains beyond. Here’s one of my favorite views towards the Burrard Street Bridge:

A wide-angle view of Burrard Bridge spanning a marina filled with boats. The city skyline and mountains are visible in the background, framed by a partly cloudy sky.

Shopping on Granville Island

After lunch, wander around the many shops on the island or even take in a performance at the Vancouver Arts Club Theatre next door to the market.

If you want more than a quick bite at the market, consider stopping in at the Tap & Barrel – Bridges Restaurant or the Dockside Restaurant. Both offer scenic views of the mountains and water and plenty of seafood options.

Other Vancouver Museums

Here’s a quick roundup of three other Vancouver museums worth visiting.

Museum of Anthropology

If you really want to dig into Indigenous history, head out to the Museum of Anthropology (#6) at the University of British Columbia, arguably the best museum in Vancouver. You’ll discover a comprehensive collection not only of indigenous art from BC, but also from across Canada and around the world.

Science World

If you have children (or even if you don’t but just like science!), then Science World (#7) should definitely be on your itinerary. Tons of hands-on interactive exhibits, cool science shows, and world-class feature exhibitions will keep you entertained and informed.

If you’ve visited the Museum of Anthropology, then you’ll have already seen some of Bill Reid’s magnificent work.

The Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art (#8) in downtown Vancouver exhibits the Bill Reid SFU Art Collection in addition to contemporary Indigenous Northwest Coast Art.

Where to Stay in Vancouver

Visitors to Vancouver are spoiled for choice when it comes to accommodations. Be warned, however, that prices are steep, especially for downtown hotels with views of the magnificent North Shore mountains and the ocean. Here are two of my favorite hotels in Vancouver:

Granville Island Hotel

The Granville Island Hotel (#9) is the closest hotel to the Museum of Vancouver and the Granville Island Public Market. It’s a great choice that’s a bit off the beaten track from downtown Vancouver.

Sutton Place Hotel

Located on Burrard Street (and so an easy bus ride over the Burrard Street Bridge to the Museum of Vancouver) and around the corner from plenty of good shops and restaurants on Robson Street, the Sutton Place Hotel (#10) is one of the more reasonable options in Vancouver with comfy 4-star rooms.

Vancouver Tours

GetYourGuide offers a few tours that include Granville Island. Here’s a foodie tour of Granville Island Public Market.

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And here are more options for touring Vancouver. Why not really splurge and take a seaplane flight over the city? On a clear day, the views are amazing.

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Conclusion

The Museum of Vancouver is worth a visit if you enjoy cultural history (which I do!).

The location of the museum is also a major plus. After you’ve toured the museum, you’ll enjoy breezy views of the ocean and mountains and perhaps take a ride on one of the little False Creek ferries.

Have you visited the Museum of Vancouver? What were your favorite galleries? Share your recommendations and observations in the Comments below.

Here are more posts about museums I’ve visited and heartily recommend:

UBC Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver: Why You Should Go!

The Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia (UBC) is the must-see museum in my hometown of Vancouver.

While I was on an Alaskan cruise a few years back, several visitors asked me what they should see during their one day in Vancouver. I always said the anthropology museum and always received a blank stare.

Regrettably, this world-class museum is not as well known as it deserves to be. Usually, when people talk about what tourists should see in Vancouver, they say the Capilano Suspension Bridge (crowded and way over-priced), the Vancouver Art Gallery (okay), and Stanley Park (a definite yes).

An image collage promoting the UBC Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver, featuring totem poles and bold text reading “Why You Should Go!” with “artsytraveler.com” at the bottom.

But a trip out to UBC to tour the Museum of Anthropology (MOA) is an absolute must. MOA houses an unparalleled collection of northwest coast Indigenous art and artifacts, along with exquisite exhibits of objects from cultures all over the world.

Overview

In this post, I share my recommendations for enjoying your visit to the UBC Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver, BC. I’ve also included practical information, such as hours, admission fees, and how to get there. Finally, check out what else you can see at the University of British Columbia and my suggested hotels in downtown Vancouver.

Where is the Museum of Anthropology (MOA)?

Designed by famed Canadian architect Arthur Erickson, the Museum of Anthropology (also known as MOA) is located on the campus of the University of British Columbia at the very tip of Point Grey, a peninsula that juts into the Strait of Georgia west of Vancouver’s downtown core. See #1 on the map below.

After being closed for a few years for seismic upgrading, MOA is again welcoming visitors.

Here’s the view of mountains and ocean that greets you from the rose garden on a hill above the museum.

A view of the rose garden at the University of British Columbia and the view of mountains and ocean beyond. The roses planted in the garden are in bloom.

The map below shows the location of the Museum of Anthropology (#1) along with other worthwhile sites at the University of British Columbia and recommended hotels in Vancouver.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Arriving at MOA

After parking in the lot conveniently located just off NW Marine Drive and adjacent to the museum, you pass the MOA sign and a rock with a message in two languages reminding you that you are on the ancestral homeland of the Musqueam people.

I grew up close to this area and regrettably learned very little about the people who first lived here. In recent years, great strides are being made to redress the imbalances.

One such development is the increasing use of Indigenous names for landmarks that for 150 years were known by their “settler” names. 

Entering the Museum of Anthropology

Enter the spacious lobby and buy your ticket. If you have a backpack or bag, you’ll need to store it in the lockers provided (they even give you a quarter to open a locker!).

And now, get ready for some serious awesomeness! Your first stop? Walk down a shallow ramp past exhibits of local First Nations art and into the Great Hall.

On your way, read the many informative plaques to learn about the displays. Their purpose is to educate visitors about why each object or artifact is significant to the culture and heritage of the First Nations people.

A vibrant woven blanket with intricate geometric patterns hanging in a museum exhibit, next to a wooden carving. These are featured on the way into the Great Hall at the Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver, Canada.

Here’s the description of the contemporary woven blanket displayed to your right as you walk down the ramp:

We dedicate this blanket to our mother Helen, our elders, and those who have gone before us. We look at this blanket as part of the tradition of education that was in place in our community for generations and is now being revived. Our ancestors speak through this weaving, through all of our weavings. In this way, they continue to share their knowledge with us.

The Great Hall

I’ve visited the Museum of Anthropology at UBC many times. But every time I walk into the Great Hall filled with one of the world’s most extensive collections of Indigenous art from the northwest coast, I feel an overwhelming sense of awe.

MOA does an excellent job of explaining the significance of each of the displays, with much of the information contributed by Indigenous artists who are carving totems and creating art today.

Stroll around this large space to get a feel for the awesomeness of the art and take time to read the explanatory plaques. 

Here are some of the many totem poles that west coast First Nations people carved from cedar. Tilt your head back and marvel at the intricacy and beauty of the poles soaring to the rafters in this incredible space.

Totem poles in the great hall at the Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia in BC
Tall Indigenous totem poles displayed in the Great Hall at the Museum of Anthropology museum with floor-to-ceiling glass windows and natural light.

Sea-Lion House

It’s difficult to single out any one piece for more elaboration because every piece is accompanied by a fascinating story. The Sea-Lion House (Indigenous name Klix’Ken Gukwdzi) is particularly noteworthy.

According to the information provided, the First Nations community built the house in 1906 in defiance of the assimilation pressures imposed through the federal Indian Act.

A large Indigenous wood carving featuring a figure with painted facial details, supported by two figures holding a wooden beam.

This house was the last old-style dwelling erected in the village as a home for an extended family. It’s probably one of the last examples of traditional northwest coast architecture in the entire Pacific Northwest.

Colonialism and Indigenous People

The dramatic beauty of traditional northwest coast art on display at MOA is all the more remarkable considering that for decades, many of the cultural traditions of the First Nations people in British Columbia were banned.

Potlaches were outlawed, people were not permitted to wear their masks or dance or sing their traditional songs, and their languages were systematically wiped out.

In recent decades, the devastation wrought by these draconian laws is slowly being overcome. MOA’s curators and historians are doing an amazing job of putting together thoughtful and beautiful displays that celebrate the First Nations culture and do not shy away from painful truths about the colonial past.

Sculptures created by artists in the pacific Northwest on display at the Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver.

After marveling at the totems and other displays in the Great Hall, return to the entrance and head to the right to tour the Koerner Collection of European ceramics.

The feeling here is completely different but no less interesting. This extensive collection features ceramics displayed in a darkened room that every time I’ve visited has been virtually empty.

Cases of ceramics, mostly plates and dinnerware in the ceramics room at the Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver.

I enjoyed learning something about the history of ceramics and was fascinated by so many incredible examples of ceramic art, some dating back millennia.

These little guys are particularly adorable. They were made in the 18th century at the Holič factory in Hungary.

Brightly colored ceramic sculptures created in Hungary and on display in the ceramics room at the Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver.

Multiversity Galleries

From the ceramics exhibition head back through the main hall and explore the museum’s multiversity galleries. MOA pioneered the use of open storage displays to exhibit their massive collection of objects from around the world.

These message greets you at the entrance to the Multiversity Galleries:

Enter here to meet creative expressions from around the globe. The galleries are laid out like a map of the world, joined by oceans and rivers. Pull open the drawers. Look up more information at the computer stations. Experience how connecting objects and people can bring the collection to life.

Here’s a portion of the South Pacific collection.

One of the entrances into the galleries showing objects from Oceania at the Museum of Anthropology

Northwest Coast First Nations Art and Objects

Don’t miss the collection of Pacific Northwest objects and art created by the area’s First Nations people. It is by far the largest collection in the galleries and features impressive displays of sculptures, masks, baskets, hats, textiles, and much more—some historical, some contemporary.

This massive Raven mask has been passed down for generations and, like all the exhibits in the First Nations collection, holds both artistic and spiritual significance along with precious knowledge for the communities that used it in ceremonies.

Massive raven mask (about six feet long) on display at the Museum of Anthropology

World Cultures

MOA features an impressive collection of thousands of ethnographic objects and artifacts from around the world. You’ll see magnificent objects from the Americas, Africa, Asia, and Oceania along with thoughtful and comprehensive descriptions.

Here are just a few examples of the breadth and astonishing variety of the collection the museum features.

Take your time to really look at these incredible objects. You could easily spend hours. And don’t forget to open the drawers! You never know what you’ll discover.

Works by Bill Reid

Acclaimed Haida artist Bill Reid is renowned for his sculptures and jewelry, several breathtaking examples of which are displayed in the museum.

The centerpiece is Bill Reid’s sculpture called The Raven and the First Men.

The Raven and the First Men sculpture by Haida Artist Bill Reid

This stunning sculpture, made from a 4.5-ton cube of 106 laminated beams, took several years to complete. The museum acquired it in 1980.

Here is the legend of Raven and the First Humans as presented on MOA’s excellent website:

One day after the great flood Raven was walking along the beach at Rose spit in the Queen Charlotte Islands when he heard a sound emanating from a clamshell at his feet. He looked more closely and saw that the shell was full of small humans. He coaxed, cajoled and coerced them to come out and play in the wonderful new world. Some immediately scurried back into the shell, but eventually curiosity overcame caution, and they all clambered out. From these little dwellers came the original Haidas, the first humans.

Walk around the sculpture and be constantly enchanted by how it changes. This piece is a marvel.

Special Exhibitions

In addition to the three areas described in this post, MOA has areas devoted to special exhibitions. These vary throughout the year, so check the website to find out what’s on during your visit.

Tours of MOA

You can choose to take one of the free guided tours the museum offers with one of the new Cultural Interpreters. Learn about the collection from an Indigenous perspective and gain insight from Cultural Interpreters who have a personal connection to the belongings and treasures.

Tours last 45 to 60 minutes and are offered Tuesday to Thursday at 11 am, 1 pm and 3 pm, and Friday to Sunday at 1 pm and 3 pm.

Make sure to check the website to confirm the schedule.

Practical Information

The Museum of Anthropology is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm (Thursdays to 9 pm). It’s closed on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.

Museum admission currently costs $25 for adults, $22 for seniors (65+) and students, and $10 for youth. Children under 5, Indigenous people, UBC students, staff and faculty, and MOA members are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Museum Gift Shop

The museum’s small gift shop features with some pretty nice stuff, including plenty of examples of Indigenous art, jewelry and crafts, along with books and souvenirs.

Accessing the Museum of Anthropology from Downtown Vancouver

The Museum of Anthropology is located on the University of British Columbia campus, about 20 minutes from downtown Vancouver (#2 in the map at the beginning of this post). Here are some options for getting there from downtown Vancouver:

By Public Transit: Take the #4 UBC Bus from various downtown locations to the UBC Exchange or take the #99 B-Line bus to the UBC bus loop. From there, it’s about a ten-minute walk to MOA. Check the Translink website for routes, fares, and schedules.

From Vancouver International Airport (#3), take the Canada Line Skytrain to the Olympic Village station and then transfer to the #84 bus to UBC.

By Car: The museum is located at 6393 Northwest Marine Drive on the UBC campus. Ample parking is available at the museum, and parking fees are typically in line with campus parking rates.

Walking or Cycling: If you’re staying nearby, you can reach the museum on foot or by bicycle.

Other Attractions Near the Museum of Anthropology

If you have time to explore further, there are several other interesting attractions nearby.

Beaty Biodiversity Museum

Located a short walk from MOA, the Beaty Biodiversity Museum (#4) on the UBC campus is another excellent museum with exhibits showcasing the incredible biodiversity of our planet. Here are some pictures I took on a visit there.

You could spend hours browsing the extensive displays. With its wonderful collection of taxidermy animals, it’s a great place to take children.

UBC Botanical Garden

Another nearby gem is the UBC Botanical Garden (#5). Here, you can explore themed gardens, hiking trails, and a diverse collection of plant species from around the world. Established in 1916, the garden is Canada’s oldest university botanic garden.

I love going in the late spring and summer. Take your walking shoes; there’s a lot to see and it’s big!

Pacific Spirit Regional Park

For nature lovers, Pacific Spirit Regional Park (#6) offers extensive walking and hiking trails through lush forest, providing a peaceful retreat from the city. It’s a great spot for a post-museum stroll.

Nitobe Gardens

I adore Nitobe Gardens (#7) and pop in almost every time I visit the campus of the University of British Columbia. The gardens are a short walk from MOA so you can easily include it in your visit.

Considered one of the most authentic Japanese gardens outside of Japan, Nitobe Gardens is just gorgeous no matter what time of year you visit. But the best times are in spring when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom and again in the fall when the maple leaves are bright red.

Here are two photos taken in late spring.

Where to Stay in Vancouver

Vancouver is a major tourist destination for Canada-bound travelers, and as such has plenty of excellent hotels. Your best bet is to stay in a hotel downtown, preferably one with a view of the magnificent North Shore mountains and the ocean.

Here are my three favorite hotels in Vancouver:

Granville Island Hotel

Located on Granville Island about a ten-minute bus ride from downtown Vancouver, the Granville Island Hotel is a great choice if you’re looking something a little bit different.

You can stroll around the Granville Island Market and other shops, take in a performance at nearby Bard on the Beach or the Arts Club Theatre, and listen to the seagulls as you drift off to sleep.

Pan Pacific Vancouver

Pan Pacific Vancouver is one of Vancouver’s most iconic hotels with gorgeous views of the cruise ships and freighters in Burrard Inlet with the North Shore mountains beyond.

This hotel is upscale, expensive, and right in the center of the action. It’s a great choice if you’re staying overnight in Vancouver before taking an Alaskan cruise.

The Westin Bayshore

I love The Westin Bayshore and often stay here if I’m taking a “town” break from my home on nearby Bowen Island.

The Bayshore’s location right next to Stanley Park is a huge selling point. Rent a bike and ride around the park, then return to the hotel and enjoy a drink overlooking Vancouver’s stunning harbor.

Vancouver Tours

GetYourGuide offers a variety of tours of Vancouver and the surrounding areas. If you have a full day to spare, then I recommend you head up to Whistler.

On this tour, you’ll ride the Sea to Sky Gondola in Squamish, explore Whistler Village (don’t miss the Audain Art Museum), and visit stunning Shannon Falls on the world-famous Sea-to-Sky Highway.

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After visiting MOA, you may feel inspired by the various Indigenous portrayals of the Orcas that swim in the local waters. Treat yourself to a whale watching experience.

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Conclusion

The Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver is a cultural and artistic treasure well worth a few hours of your time.

The sweeping views of mountains and sea you’ll enjoy on the journey out to the University of British Columbia are reason enough to visit, but you’ll also learn so much about the Indigenous cultures of the Pacific Northwest and get a chance to marvel at the the objects on display from around the world.

The ingenuity of people never ceases to amaze me, which is why I love museums like this.

Have you visited the Museum of Anthropology? What were your favorite exhibits? Share your recommendations and observations in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts about museums I’ve visited and heartily recommend:

Facade of the National Archeological Museum in Athens

What to See at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens

The National Archaeological Museum in Athens is the largest archaeological museum in Greece and a must-see while visiting Athens.

As one of the world’s most important museums devoted to ancient Greek art, the National Archaeological Museum in Athens showcases centuries of ancient Greek history.

You’ll find artifacts from the earliest inhabitants to the Romans displayed in several large rooms. Information about each exhibit is provided in both English and Greek.

Pinterest graphic with the text What to See at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens over a picture of a Minoan wall painting on the top and the facade of the museum on the bottom.

Orientation to the National Archaeological Museum in Athens

The National Archeological Museum (#1 on the map below) is about a twenty-minute walk or a short taxi ride from the center of Athens where you’ll likely be spending most of your time. Here’s a map showing the location of the museum along with other Athens landmarks.

Trip map courtesy of Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

Don’t be tempted to skip the National Archaeological Museum in favor of the more modern Acropolis Museum. Both museums offer different takes on the ancient world and both are well worth your time. If possible, schedule your visits on different days so you don’t get over-loaded!

In this post, I feature my favorite pieces from the Prehistoric Antiquities and Sculpture collections. Take your time wandering through the Archaeological Museum. It’s large, but not overwhelming. Many of the rooms are quite spacious and, at least when I was there in September, not crowded.

Prehistoric Antiquities at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens

Your first stop after entering the museum is the area featuring unique works of art from the major civilizations that flourished in Greece and the Aegean Sea area from the 7th millennium (that’s a long time ago) to around 1050 BC.

Discover works from the Neolithic period and the Bronze Age. Some of the most significant artifacts come from the royal tombs of Mycenae. You’ll also view evocative Cycladic marble figurines and the astonishingly well-preserved wall paintings from Thera (aka Santorini).

Mycenean Collection

Two of the many show-stoppers in the Mycenean collection are gold masks dating from the 16th century BC. The mask on the left is known as the mask of Agamemnon.

Having already visited Mycenae (see my post on the two days I spent in Nafplio during which I took a semi-private tour to Mycenae), I enjoyed seeing even more of the artifacts from that period. The Mycenaean civilization flourished between 1600 and 1100 BC, and was a wealthy and very influential culture. The beauty and intricacy of the objects, many rendered in gold, is astonishing.

Cycladic Antiquities

I’m glad I chose to visit the Archaeological Museum of Athens at the end of my trip around Greece. I had more context for understanding what I was looking at. During my visit to the Cyclades (Santorini and Naxos), I visited several small museums featuring Cycladic art and already knew a little bit about it.

I especially loved the almost alien-looking marble sculptures with their smooth surfaces and blank eyes. This little guy is playing a double flute and dates from 2800 to 2300 BC.

Cycladic figure at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

Antiquities of Thera

Thera is the proper name for Santorini, which was the first stop on my trip to Greece. While there, I visited the archaeological site at Akrotiri (check out my post on Santorini) where many of the artifacts in the National Archeological Museum come from.

Before it was destroyed in a volcanic eruption, Akrotiri included public spaces and three-story houses decorated with wall paintings, many of which have survived in remarkably good condition. Here are two of them. The stylization, color combinations, and sheer delicate beauty of the paintings took my breath away.

Painting from Thera at the National Archeological Museum in Athens
Painting from Thera at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

Also featured in the collection at the National Archaeological Museum are some amazing pots, my favorites being these two. It’s hard to believe that these were painted in the 16th century BC. They look so modern!

Sculpture Collection at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens

The sculpture collection occupies several rooms at the museum and presents the evolution of ancient Greek sculpture from 700 BC to the 5th century AD. The collection includes over 16,000 sculptures from archaeological sites all over Greece, not all of which are on display. Four periods are represented: Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, and Roman.

Archaic Sculptures

My faves are the sculptures from the Archaic Period. While I appreciate the much more realistic sculptures from later periods, there’s something about the stiff, upright, far-seeing Kouros statues that just gets to me. They are over life-size and not realistic, but then they don’t pretend to be. This one is made of Naxian marble and was a votive offering to Poseidon.

Statue of a kourus from ancient Greece

Classical Sculptures

The sculptures from the classical period date from the 5th century BC. Democracy had been established in Athens and various military victories at the battles of Marathon and Plataea had resulted in an era of intellectual creativity, material prosperity, and democratic consolidation. Artists flocked to the city, and by the peak of the century, sculptors were drawing their inspiration from the idealized human body.

You’ll find a great many wonderful sculptures from the classical period to check out. One of the most famous is the statue of Poseidon. He dominates one of the rooms with his great set of abs and one arm poised to throw his trident into the waves. This imposing statue was found at the bottom of the sea in 460 BC.

Statue of Poseidon

Hellenistic Sculptures

The Hellenistic period runs from the late 4th to the early 1st century BC. Figures were rendered realistically, rather than in the idealized way they tended to be in the Classical period.

I was drawn to the theater masks made from marble. This one dates from the 2nd century BC and is modeled after masks used in comedy.

Theater mask at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

This grouping from 340 BC is pretty amazing, and one of several similar sculptures that were created as grave reliefs. Look at the details in the hair and beard, and the expressions on the faces!

Group of sculptured figures at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

Roman Sculptures

I got the impression while traveling around Greece that the Greeks are still none too happy that the Romans invaded their country back in the day. Occasionally, a guide would disparagingly note that a particular ruin was Roman, and they didn’t mean it as a compliment. From the 2nd century BC onwards, Greece was gradually conquered by the Romans until their eventual dominance in 31 BC.

Many of the artistic treasures of Greece were taken to Rome, which probably didn’t go over too well with the locals. Eventually, new local workshops were established to satisfy the demand for copies of Classical and Hellenistic works and by the 2nd century AD, Athens was again an artistic center.

Here are two of the many Roman sculptures in the museum. On the left is an intriguing bronze portrait statue of the empress Julia Aquilia Severa (AD 220). She doesn’t look particularly happy. On the right is a rather fine statue of the goddess Hygieia dating from AD 200 that was found at the sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidauros which we visited while staying in Nafplion.

The Jockey

One of the most famous pieces in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens is known as The Artemision Jockey. This bronze statue of a horse and jockey dates from around 140 BC, and was retrieved in pieces between 1928 and 1937 from the sea floor off Cape Artemision. Check out the boy’s expression. He’s so focused on handling his massive steed. This huge piece takes pride of place in the museum and no wonder. It’s truly remarkable.

Marble Roman sculpture at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

Other Collections at the Archaeological Museum in Athens

The museum also includes a wonderful collection of metalwork, with its Bronze collection reputed to be one of the finest in the world. In addition, you’ll find an extensive collection of vases, many with the distinctive black and gold coloring.

I never get tired of studying these ancient vases with their intricately drawn scenes. If I ever decide to write a novel set in ancient Greece, I can see myself spending a lot of time studying the imagery on the vases to learn what people wore and how they lived.

Check out this vase depicting a man placing a child on a swing. Sweet or what?

Greek vase at the National Archeological Museum in Athens

And just in case you haven’t yet slaked your appetite for looking at antiquities, check out the Egyptian and Cypriot collections, both world renowned.

Practical Information

From November 1 to March 31, the National Archaeological Museum in Athens is open from Wednesday to Monday from 8:30 am to 3:30 pm and on Tuesdays from 1:00 pm to 8:00 pm. From April 1 to October 31, the museum is open from Wednesday to Monday from 8:30 am to 8:00 pm and on Tuesdays from 1:00 pm to 8:00 pm. The museum is closed on December 25 – 26, January 1,  March 25, May 1 and Orthodox Easter Sunday. Admission costs 12€ from April 1 to October 31 and 6€ from November 1 to March 31.

Where to Stay in Athens

On our recent trip to Athens, we stayed in two places: a holiday apartment for two nights and a hotel for one night. I highly recommend both, which are in neighborhoods convenient for sightseeing in Athens.

Karma Apartments

Steps from the lively Plaka district on a quiet side street, Karma Apartments is a real find in Athens. The one-bedroom apartment on the top floor of a building containing other holiday lets includes a large terrace with a peekaboo view of the Acropolis.

Hotel Lozenge

On our last night in Greece, we stayed at the Hotel Lozenge in the upscale Kolonaki neighbourhood. This is a great choice for a business-style hotel with comfortable rooms, an attached restaurant, and very helpful staff.

Tours of Athens

Here are some tours of Athens from GetYourGuide.

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Conclusion

Athens is more than its antiquities, but wow, they sure do have incredible antiquities! Take the time to wander through the rooms at the National Archaeological Museum to marvel at the some of the most beautiful sculptures and other objects ever made by human hands. And then when you’re done, go enjoy a tasty Greek meal (every meal I had was tasty!) and relax.

You’re in Athens and life is good. Here are more posts about travels in Greece:

Have you visited the National Archaeological Museum in Athens? Share your comments and recommendations in the Comments below.

The Design Museum in London

Things to See at the Design Museum in London

London’s new-to-me Design Museum is indeed quite new. Founded in 1989, it moved in 2016 to its spacious digs in South Kensington adjacent to Holland Park from a former 1940s banana warehouse on the South Bank.

Now the Design Museum hosts millions of visitors each year.

And no wonder! The Design Museum’s vision is “A world in which design enables this planet and its inhabitants to thrive.” Innovative exhibitions, partnerships, research and learning programs celebrate design in all its forms.

Pinterest graphic with the text "Enjoying Your Visit to the Design Museum in London" over a picture of the interior of the Design Museum in London, England.

I highly recommend a visit to the Design Museum in London. Unlike many museums that are full of objects we can admire but never use, the Design Museum features objects we all use every day—from teaspoons to computers to cars. It’s fascinating to see the integral role design has played in shaping our modern world. Read on to learn what there is to see and do at the Design Museum in London!

Things to See in the Design Museum in London

Located on Kensington High Street near Holland Park, the Design Museum’s newly renovated building is spacious, airy, and chock full of interesting things to look at.

Admission to the permanent collection at the Design Museum (1) is free, just like so many of London’s major museums including the Victoria and Albert Museum (2), the National Gallery (3), and the British Museum (4).

Trip map created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

In addition to the marvelous permanent collection called Designer Maker User, the Design Museum houses several special exhibitions which do require tickets.

Check the Design Museum’s website to see if any of the special exhibitions interest you, buy your ticket online in advance, and then make sure you save some energy to tour the permanent collection. Tickets for popular exhibitions, such as Barbie: The Exhibition that I saw in September 2024 and the current Tim Burton Exhibition that runs to April 21, 2025, sell out quickly.

Barbie: The Exhibition at the Design Museum in London

If you’re visiting London this fall or winter, then run, don’t walk to see Barbie: The Exhibition before it closes on February 23, 2025. The story of the iconic doll’s evolution from a design and marketing perspective is fascinating.

The bright, colorful (and VERY pink) Barbie exhibition at the Design Museum in London showcases Barbie’s development from her creation in 1959 to her hundreds of iterations today and includes a nod to the 2024 Barbie movie.

Portion of the Barbie exhibition at the Design Museum in London
Part of the very colorful Barbie Exhibition at the Design Museum in London

My First Barbie

I got my first Barbie when I was eight years old, and I remember loving  her. I also remember my older brother trying to put my Barbie through the wringer washer. Fortunately, she survived surprisingly intact. That plastic was made to last!

My mom sewed clothes for my Barbie, a monumental achievement considering the teeny tiny size of Barbie clothes. At the time, I took her incredible skill for granted. As I gazed down at the Barbie clothes on display in the Barbie exhibition, I was astonished anew by my mother’s abilities and achievements.

For obvious reasons, I particularly liked the displays of the early Barbies. I remember coveting the high-priced Barbie Dreamhouse and Barbie cars, but they were out of reach for my family. I did know a few very wealthy girls at school who had them and were the envy of us all. Here is a selection of cars from Barbie’s early years.

Barbie Cars at the Design Museum in London

Barbie’s Success Story

Barbie sure is a design success story. The doll has evolved over the years, and while still essentially a stick-thin glamor girl, she has had some iterations that bring her closer to real life. There are different body shapes, different ethnicities and different head shapes.

I’m particularly impressed by all the ways in which Barbie is shown to participate in the world—from Firefighter Barbie to Astronaut Barbie to President Barbie.

Barbie Dolls at the Design Museum in London

Barbie has become a much healthier role model for young girls than she was back in the 1960s. My first dolls were baby dolls in keeping with the emphasis in the 1950s on preparing girls for motherhood. Having a doll that looked glamorous, had long hair that I could brush, and that wore pretty clothes was a revelation. But the concept of a Firefighter Barbie or an Astronaut Barbie or even a Management Consultant Barbie was foreign territory indeed.

So yeah, we’ve come a long way since 1959 when Barbie first hit the market!

I’m Just Ken!

Barbie: The Exhibition does not neglect good ‘ole Ken. I snapped this photo of a collection of Kens standing tall and proud in a case of their own.

Collection of Ken dolls at the Design Museum in London

Exploring the Permanent Collection at the Design Museum in London

After touring Barbie: The Exhibition, I ascended to the third floor to tour the permanent collection of the Design Museum and admire the museum’s interior space.

That to See in the Designer Maker User Collection

The permanent collection at the Design Museum is called Designer Maker User and it’s a stunner! The curators have done an excellent job of explaining various design concepts through the display of everyday objects, from spoons to chairs to computers.

The exhibit features over 1000 objects divided into three segments: Designer, Maker, and User .

Designer at the Design Museum

The objects in the Designer section are displayed in ways that invite the visitor to contemplate the thought process of the designer who must envision how the designed object will be used. I like the quote on one of the information plaques: “The role of the designer stretches from the spoon to the city.”

In this section are displayed objects such as a traffic light, the Anglepoise lamp, and a Tube carriage.

Maker at the Design Museum

The Maker section presents objects in relation to the evolution of manufacturing. Included are café chairs, a Model T Ford, robotic arms, and 3D printers. Objects such as tennis balls and the London 2012 Olympic Torch are presented at different stages of production.

As I wandered through the exhibits, I was constantly amazed by the ingenuity of the human mind. Take tennis, for instance.  First, someone had to want a ball they could bounce and hit with a racket. Then, someone else had to figure out how to make a prototype of the ball. Finally, a whole team of brainiacs had to figure out how to manufacture thousands of balls so that anyone who wanted to could play tennis. Mind-boggling!

User at the Design Museum

The User section explores the interaction between people and brands that define the modern world. As a computer user for many decades, I was especially taken by the display of electronics, from the clunky Apple computers of the 1980s to the sleek Macs of today. The red Sony laptop in the picture below is identical to one I had a good twenty years ago. I really liked that computer!

Computers at the Design Museum in London

Crowdsourced Wall at the Design Museum

Outside the Designer User Maker exhibit is the Crowdsourced Wall. Here are displayed more than 200 objects that people from 25 countries nominated as their most important objects. The diverse selection of objects is meant to “demonstrate the intimate relationships we have with the everyday objects that shape our lives.”

Items on display include a red bucket, an Underground sign, a bicycle, a green plastic stool, a sewing machine, a drill, a mop, a pair of jeans, and a lot more. The fascinating selection is so much fun to look at since these are objects that we all know and use.

The Crowdsourced Wall of everyday objects at the Design Museum in London

Checking Out the Rods at the Design Museum

I am arrested by a display of…rods! I didn’t know rods were a thing in the UK, but they certainly were a cherished part of my early school years. For those who don’t know, rods are various colored plastic rectangles used to teach children arithmetic.

A white rod represents one and is one-tenth the size of an orange rod that represents ten. In between are red for two, green for three, and so on. When I was in Grades 1 and 2, the highlight of a day was when you finished your work early and the teacher let you go to the back of the room to “play rods.” I spent many a happy hour solving arithmetic problems with the tactile aid of those plastic rectangles that felt so smooth and were so pleasingly colored. Rods are still in use to this day, although my daughter doesn’t remember having them when she was at school in the 1990s.

What a shame for her! I credit rods with giving me a lifelong penchant for arithmetic. Mathematics? Not so much, but I’m a dab hand at addition, subtraction, multiplication and division without a calculator! Thank you, rods.

A box of rods used to solve arithmetic problems at the Design Museum in London
A display of rods used to teach children arithmetic

The box of rods on display at the Design Museum isn’t the only object that catapults me down memory lane. The entire museum is one big time-travel experience.

If you use household objects (and who doesn’t?), then check out the Design Museum. You’re bound to find at least a few displays that trigger happy memories.

The Design Museum Shop

After you’ve toured the exhibits, check out the stylish gift shop. You’ll find all sorts of cool design items there.

Practical Information about the Design Museum in London

The Design Museum is located at 224–238 Kensington High Street and is open Monday to Thursday from 10:00 to 17:00, and Friday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Some ticketed exhibitions may remain open later on weekends. The Design Museum is closed on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day. Admission to the permanent collection is free. Check the website for more information.

Touring London

London is full of intriguing museums and experiences, some very much off-the-beaten path. GetYourGuide has plenty of options to choose from. Here are a few:

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Staying in London

London is not an inexpensive city, but nevertheless, I’ve discovered some excellent places to stay that, while not bargain basement, are good value and centrally located.

On a recent trip to London, I stayed at the Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel. Located right across the street from Victoria Station, the Park Plaza Victoria (5 on the map at the beginning of this post) is a remarkably good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London. My room for two was spacious and even had a view over London.

The Wilde ApartHotel (6) in central London is also a wonderful choice. I loved its central location within walking distance of Trafalgar Square and most of the West End theaters. Check out my post about the Wilde ApartHotel.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Design Museum? What were your favorite exhibits? Did you see a special exhibition? Share your experiences and recommendations in the Comments below.

Here are links to posts about three of my favorite London galleries and museums:

Carol Cram at the V & A Museum in London

How to Get the Most Out of Your Visit to the Victoria & Albert Museum in London

The Victoria and Albert Museum is one of the world’s most amazing repositories of, well, beautiful stuff.

It’s a collector’s dream come true with astonishing examples of the decorative arts and the applied arts. You’ll find everything from costumes to metal gates to furniture to bracelets and everything in between.

There is so much to see at London’s Victoria and Albert museum that you need to pace yourself and have a plan.

You can’t really define the V&A because it’s just so eclectic.

A split image showing the iconic entrance and courtyard of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London with the text "The Victoria and Albert Museum in London" and "artsytraveler.com."

Think of an object and the V&A probably has an example of a version made with exquisite skill by someone somewhere in the world.

It’s a sensual feast for the eyes and a testament to the ingenuity of human beings and their commitment to fashioning objects that are not only functional but gorgeous.

There are so many things to see that you could spend days exploring—it’s HUGE! In this post, I share my recommendations for seeing the best of the V&A.

V&A at a Glance

Overview of the Victoria and Albert Museum

The V&A museum is high on my list of favorite museums. Almost every time I go to London, I pop into the V&A. No matter how often I visit, I still discover new things to look at.

The only problem with this incredible museum is that it’s impossible to see and appreciate all of it in one visit, or two, or ten. I’ve visited at least five times over the years, and I feel like I haven’t even scratched the surface.

The museum lives up to its reputation as the world’s largest museum of art and design.

The V&A was established in 1852 with collections from the Great Exhibition of 1851, and was originally called the Museum of Manufactures and then the South Kensington Museum.

Queen Victoria laid the foundation stone of the current location in 1899 and changed the name to the Victoria and Albert Museum to include her late husband Prince Albert.

Location of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London

The V&A is located near the South Kensington underground station and alongside several of London’s largest South Kensington museums.

If you love museums, make a day of it. Visit the V&A (1), and then hop on over to the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum (2 & 3 on the map). Both are excellent places to visit with children.

Better still, spread the visits over two days. Museum-hopping can be exhausting. Go at your own pace and take time to explore nearby Hyde Park (4) and Kensington Gardens (5) for a nature break.

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Visiting the Victoria and Albert Museum in London

Yes, the V&A is huge and yes, there’s a ton to see, but you have to start somewhere. Your best bet when first visiting is to select five or six galleries to explore, occasionally veering into exhibition rooms en route when something catches your eye.

List of Galleries

  • Architecture
  • Britain (1500 – 1760)
  • Britain (1760 – 1900)
  • Buddhism
  • Cast Courts
  • Ceramics
  • China
  • Contemporary Glass
  • Design (1900 – Now)
  • Europe (1600 – 1815)
  • Fashion
  • Furniture
  • Glass
  • Gold, Silver & Mosaics
  • Himalayas & Southeast Asia
  • Ironwork
  • Islamic Middle East
  • Japan
  • Jewelry
  • Korea
  • Leighton
  • Medieval & Renaissance (300 – 1600)
  • Metalware
  • Paintings
  • Photography Centre
  • Portrait Miniatures
  • Prints & Drawings
  • The Raphael Cartoons
  • Sacred Silver & Stained Glass
  • Sculpture
  • Sculpture (1300 – 1600)
  • Silver
  • South Asia
  • South Asian Sculpture
  • Tapestries
  • Theatre & Performance

Daunting? You betcha! Note that some galleries may be closed. Start your visit by checking at the information desk to find out what’s open. For example, the Theatre & Performance gallery was not open when I visited in September, 2024.

So where to start?

A bright view of the grand entrance to the Victoria and Albert Museum, showcasing the building's intricate white stone architecture against a clear blue sky.
Exterior of the Victoria and Albert Museum on Cromwell Road in Kensington

Arriving at the Victoria and Albert Museum

First, walk up the steps and enter the museum’s massive atrium. Straight ahead is a large information area—your first stop.

Put your wallet away (unless you’re planning to see the special exhibition) because admission to the permanent collection is FREE. I know. Amazing!

You can make a donation (I always do), but you don’t have to. The attendants at the information booth will give you a map and may also suggest you purchase the guidebook.

For £5, it’s a bargain because it gives you an overview of the highlights of each gallery.

Special Exhibitions

You can choose to buy a ticket to the special exhibition. A few weeks before you visit the V&A, check what’s on and make reservations. Popular exhibitions often sell out quickly.

Getting Started

Once you’ve purchased your guidebook, or even just armed with the free map, walk straight through the gift shop (you can come back later!) and out into the courtyard.

Buy something to drink from the kiosk and settle down at one of the tables (weather permitting) to check the map and/or guidebook.

The exterior courtyard of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, featuring the building's red brick façade, a circular fountain, and manicured greenery, including a topiary tree in a planter.
Courtyard at the V&A

While sipping your beverage of choice, figure out which areas you want to focus on and where they are in the museum. You want to avoid backtracking.

The beauty of the V&A is that even if you’ve decided to tour only six galleries, you’ll see plenty more as you walk through the museum from chosen gallery to chosen gallery. Don’t be surprised if you’re tempted to veer off to check out a gallery you hadn’t intended to visit.

Give in to these impulses. The V&A truly is a treasure trove!

Now you’re ready to start your tour. Go slowly and pace yourself. Beauty overload is a thing!

Here are just some of the hundreds (thousands?) of things to see at the V&A.

Things to See at the Victoria and Albert Museum

I’m focusing here on six galleries: Fashion, Asian (which includes several areas), Furniture, Cast Court, Glass, and Jewelry.

Fashion Gallery 

I always drop into the fashion collection, located in the central area of the main floor. Here, you’ll find a unique collection of European clothing and textiles spanning from 1750 to the present.

I particularly enjoy the 18th- and 19th-century dresses. Can you imagine wearing so many hoops and corsets? Here’s an elaborate dress from the 1760s.

A museum display of an ornate 18th-century floral gown with a full skirt and corseted bodice. The dress is set against a historical backdrop alongside a wooden string instrument.

Asian Art and Objects at the Victoria and Albert Museum

This is a broad category that includes art and objects from several regions: Japan, Korea, China, South Asia and Himalayas, and Southeast Asia. Take a stroll through the galleries to enjoy an amazing collection of articles.

Highlights for me are the Samurai armor collection in the Japan section, a golden Buddha, jade objects from China, delicate porcelain, and so many more treasures.

An interesting—if rather gruesome—piece is Tipu’s Tiger in the South Asia and Himalayas section. This wooden sculpture was made for Tipu Sultan, ruler of Mysore in South India.

When the handle on the side of the tiger is turned, the ghastly noises produced imitate the wails of agony of the British soldier lying underneath the tiger. Apparently, this exhibit was one of the most popular in the East India Company’s museum.

A unique wooden sculpture depicting a tiger attacking a British soldier, with vibrant colors and intricate carving. The piece is housed in a glass display case with accompanying text panels.

And although not part of the Asian galleries, take a quick detour to check out the Ardabil carpet, which is the world’s oldest dated carpet. Although its exact origins are unknown, the carpet was made sometime during the 16th century.

It’s a stunner.

Examples of furniture are scattered throughout many of the galleries in the V&A. In addition, the Dr. Susan Weber Gallery of Furniture showcases how furniture was been made and decorated for over 600 years. Included are items from the Renaissance to the present.

Bed of Ware

One of the most interesting pieces of furniture is in the Britain 1500 – 1760 gallery. Definitely make a detour to check out the Great Bed of Ware, so famous in its day that it was mentioned by Shakespeare.

The famous bed is three meters wide and apparently able to comfortably accommodate four couples (at least!). It was constructed around 1590 as a tourist attraction for an inn in Ware, Hertfordshire, which was a day’s journey from London and a convenient overnight stop for travelers bound for Cambridge and points north.

The initials that visitors carved into the bed posts and the headboard are still visible today.

A historic four-poster bed with ornate dark wood carvings and bright red and yellow curtains. The bed is displayed in a dimly lit museum gallery.

Cast Courts 

The massive sculptures in the Cast Courts are the showstopping, must-see areas of the V&A. You’ll be able to view the two huge, connected courts from many angles as you make your way up through the four levels of the museum.

Look down from one of the walkways on the third or fourth level and find yourself faced with a bewildering hodge podge of iconic statues, altarpieces, and even columns.

Why go to Florence when you can visit the cast courts at the V&A instead? It’s like a souvenir store for giants.

These plaster casts of great art and architecture from around the world were collected and displayed for visitors to study.

One of the many highlights is Michelangelo’s David. Apparently, Queen Victoria was shocked by the anatomical correctness of the David cast and requested that a suitably proportioned fig leaf be made and hung on the statue when dignitaries visited.

My source didn’t specify if regular visitors were allowed to view the full Monty, so to speak.

A wide view of a museum's cast court filled with replicas of famous sculptures, including Michelangelo's David, surrounded by detailed architectural elements and other statues.

Another highlight is the reproduction of Trajan’s column. The original is too tall to include in the building and so the reproduction is divided into two massive columns.

I’ve seen the original in Rome, and because of the column’s height, it’s difficult to see the detail. At the V&A, you can get pretty close to the columns to view the intricate carvings.

Interior view of a museum gallery showcasing large replicas of ancient Roman columns, including Trajan's Column, surrounded by other monumental sculptures under a skylit ceiling.

Glass Gallery

Up on Level 3 in a corner of the museum that was virtually empty when I last visited is the astounding Glass Gallery. Here, you’ll trace the development of design and technology in glassmaking over 3,500 years.

The museum’s glass collection is reputed to be one of the world’s most comprehensive.

I’m always intrigued by glass. How did people figure out that sand heated up could turn transparent? The variety and beauty of the hundreds and hundreds of objects on display is truly remarkable. I could have stayed there for hours.

A display of slender, artistic glass vessels in shades of blue, turquoise, and brown with elongated, curving necks. These pieces are delicately shaped, highlighting the elegance of glassblowing techniques.

I’m feeling overwhelmed after looking at some many amazing objects, but I can’t resist a walk through the narrow, dimly lit and quite crowded collection reputed to be among the finest in the world.

More than 3,000 pieces tell the story of western jewelry from ancient times to the present day.

Case after case contain pieces ranging from tiaras, brooches, and earrings to stunning necklaces, bracelets, and rings.

All around you, people can be heard oohing and aahing, and no wonder! The ingenuity and skill that was required to make such superb objects is unfathomable.

Close-up of two golden snake-shaped bracelets, intricately detailed with scales, displayed on a dark surface. The craftsmanship emphasizes the serpent motif with coiled designs and lifelike texture.

Completing Your Visit

Your visit will probably take you three to four hours. But don’t spend all that time touring the exhibits! Here are some ideas for pacing yourself.

Taking a Break at the Café 

A good strategy is to take a break to enjoy something to eat at the V&A café. Not only is the food tasty, but you’ll also benefit from getting off your feet to further study the guidebook and map.

The café can get crowded, so time your visit either before or after the lunch rush.

One good strategy to avoid crowds is to arrive at the museum when it opens at 10 am, tour a few galleries, and then enjoy an early lunch in the café before tackling some more.

Checking Out the Gift Shop 

I do love a good gift shop, and the one at the V&A is first-rate. You’ll find relatively affordable textiles, jewelry, books, fashion items, gift items, cool stuff for kids, and much more.

I bought some lovely tea towels that will be for display only in my kitchen. They are far too nice to use!

Studying at the Victoria and Albert Museum

The V&A is a world-class research center. In addition to displaying over 60,000 objects in the Museum, the museum also maintains a number of study rooms, both on and off-site. Here, you can view over two million objects from the Reference Collections and conduct private research.

When I was researching my novel The Muse of Fire, set in early 19th century London, I booked time at one of the study centers to view original prints of cartoons popular at the time.

In the hushed atmosphere of the offsite study room, I received the box of prints from an attendant who looked straight out of a Dickens novel, and spent several happy hours making notes and taking pictures.

If you have a research project in mind, you may well find useful resources at the V&A. Check the website for more information. Note that you must book well in advance of your visit.

Book cover for "The Muse of Fire" by Carol M. Cram. It features a woman in a vintage brown dress standing against a fiery orange background, exuding a dramatic and historical ambiance. The tagline reads "by the author of The Towers of Tuscany."

Practical Information

The Victoria and Albert Museum is open seven days a week from 10:00 am to 17:45, except for Fridays when it is open until 22:00. Admission is free. Check the website for more information.

Taking a Tour

On one visit to the V&A, I opted to take a guided tour. Good call! The two-hour tour showed me all sorts of amazing objects I may have missed if touring on my own. You can take a free tour provided by the museum staff or an outside tour.

Here is a tour option from GetYourGuide:

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Other Awesome Museums in London

Of course, top of the list is the British Museum, in which you’ll experience objects from cultures all across the globe over two million years. Entry is free, but book your entry ticket in advance. The closest tube stations are Tottenham Court Road, Holborn, and Russell Square.

For art, you can’t beat the Tate Britain, the Tate Modern, the National Gallery of Britain (my favorite), the National Portrait Gallery, and the Courtauld Gallery

The Wallace Collection is small but eclectic and worth a visit. And while you’re in South Kensington, check out the Design Museum, which has become one of my new favorite places in London. 

Staying in London

London is not an inexpensive city, but over the years, I’ve discovered some excellent places to stay that, while not bargain basement, are good value and very centrally located.

On my latest trip to London, I stayed at the Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel. Located right across the street from Victoria Station, the Park Plaza Victoria (6 on the map at the beginning of this post) is a remarkably good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.

My room for two was spacious and even had a view over London.

A cloudy cityscape of London, featuring modern high-rise buildings in the distance and a mix of urban architecture in the foreground, with rooftops and chimneys adding character to the scene.
View from my room at the Park Plaza Victoria Hotel in London

The Wilde ApartHotel (7) just off the Strand is also a wonderful choice. I loved its very central location within walking distance of Trafalgar Square and most of the West End theaters.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Victoria and Albert Museum in London? What were your favorite exhibits? Share your experiences and recommendations in the Comments below.

Here are links to posts about three of my favorite London galleries:

Carol Cram at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England

Make the Roman Baths in Bath a Sightseeing Priority

The Roman Baths in Bath, England, is the city’s foremost must-see attraction. 

If you only have time to visit one historic site in the city of Bath, make it the Roman Baths.

It’s small enough to enjoy in about an hour, includes an excellent audio guide, and is enlivened by numerous projections of Roman-clad people going about their bathing business.

I’ve visited the Roman baths three times over the past ten years and each time, I discover something new.

Pinterest graphic with the text "Roman Baths" over a picture of the Roman baths in Bath, England, taken from the terrace of the Roman Baths Museum

Roman Baths at a Glance

  • Enjoy views of Bath Abbey from the museum terrace
  • Discover the ancient history of the sacred spring
  • Explore fascinating displays and costumed recreations that bring ancient Aquae Sulis to life
  • Consider a guided tour to get the most out of your visit
  • Stay at the Harington’s Boutique Hotel in the center of Bath

Location of the Roman Baths

The Roman Baths are located next to the Pump Room in the center of Bath. It’s a short walk from the train station.

When you arrive, you may find quite a crowd gathered and signs indicating which time slot is currently being accommodated.

If you didn’t get tickets in advance, ask the person marshaling the crowd if you can still  get in. I did this on a recent visit and the attendant promptly stood aside and motioned for me to walk right in, bypassing the long line. I didn’t stop to question my good fortune.

That said, I wouldn’t count on getting in without buying your ticket in advance. You can purchase tickets online from the official website or choose a tour.

Audio Guide

The price includes an audio guide with two tracks in twelve languages. The regular track provides the usual historical context in short and interesting installments.

The children’s track includes first-person accounts by the many characters that wander across screens projected throughout the museum. I alternate between the adult and children’s tracks. Both are excellent.

Touring the Baths

The clearly signposted route starts on the terrace, which consists of a walkway surrounding the baths.

This structure and the statues of various Roman bigwigs are Victorian additions that were built atop the Roman ruins to house the museum when it opened in the late 19th century.

The terrace is a delightful space surrounded by warm Bath stone and with the façade of Bath Abbey looming in the background. Below are the deep green waters of the main pool. Bath has been a mecca for health-seekers for two millennia.

Overhead view of the main pool at the Roman Baths Museum
View of the main pool from the top walkway
View of Bath Abbey from the top walkway at thhe Roman Baths Museum
View of Bath Abbey from the top walkway

Hot Springs History

While touring the museum, you’ll learn that Bath is the only place in the entire country that has hot springs—three of them. No wonder people have been coming here for millennia.

Before the Romans arrived, the local Dobunni tribe worshipped the goddess Sulis at the sacred spring. In those days, the heated natural spring was a bubbling, steaming pool surrounded by a thick swamp.

When the Romans arrived, they incorporated worship of Sulis into their own pantheon and so transformed her into Sulis Minerva and called the settlement Aquae Sulis.

The Romans were generally “equal opportunity” when it came to accommodating other religions, so long as the people practicing them rendered unto Caesar the necessary taxes.

In Roman Britain, the legionnaires who first conquered the area must have been very happy to have found a place where they could soak their weary bones in warm water in the midst of a Great Britain winter.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, Bath developed into one of the world’s most fashionable watering holes. Everyone who was anyone came here to take the waters. Jane Austen herself bathed here.

Museum Exhibits

The tour leads back indoors and descends through several rooms full of artfully displayed exhibits about the Romans.

Enlivening the experience are screens projecting a selection of Roman bathers who would have frequented the baths back in the day. It’s a clever way to bring history to life and makes you feel like you’re witnessing it firsthand.

Projection of Roman characters at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England

You can listen to a blacksmith on the audio guide while watching a screen showing him hard at work making armor. 

Projection of a Roman blacksmith at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England
Projection of a Roman blacksmith

The Baths

The exhibits give way to a series of walkways leading across the archaeological remains of the various rooms in the Roman Baths.

The Romans took their health seriously. There are rooms for getting massaged and plucked (apparently, the Romans weren’t keen on body hair), rooms for bathing in various water temperatures, and even a gymnasium where Romans got good and sweaty in humid air that still smells of sulfur.

Projection of Romans getting prepared to bathe at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England
Projection of Roman woman preparing to bathe

The ruins themselves don’t photograph particularly well. Here’s one room showing the bricks that would have been under the floor to supply the heating.

The audio commentary provides details about the impressive heating and cooling mechanisms. The Romans certainly knew how to engineer.

Ruins of the heating system at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England
Ruins of the heating system

Minerva Sulis

One of the most striking artifacts on display is the gilt bronze head of the goddess Sulis Minerva. It’s a rare and beautiful example of ancient craftsmanship. 

Bust of the goddess Minerva-Sulis at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England
Bust of the goddess Sulis Minerva

Outside next to the large pool sits a Roman-clad guide. She acknowledges me with a regal nod when I take her picture. I’m unsure if she’s meant to speak or if her job is to sit by the pool all day and have her picture taken. 

A costumed guide at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England
A Roman watches the crowds go by

Bath Tours

Bath is unique in that it has two inscriptions as a UNESCO World Heritage site. In the 1980s, the town was inscribed for its Hot Springs, Roman archaeology, Georgian buildings and natural landscape setting.

And then just a few years ago in 2021, it was awarded a second inscription as one of the Great Spa Towns of Europe.

The best way to explore Bath is through a walking tour. GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides.

Tours and Tickets

If you’re a Bridgerton fan, you may find this tour fun:

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Conclusion

Ruins can be challenging to enjoy because they are, well, ruins. The Roman Baths manages to bring the stony vestiges of a once great Roman hangout to life with its thoughtful use of projections and audio commentary. 

As you exit the museum, you can enjoy a cupful of the medicinal waters to give you energy for more Bath sightseeing.

The Roman Baths are open from 9 am to 10 pm from July 20 to August 31, and from 9 am to 6 pm from September 1 to December 31. Buy your tickets online from the museum’s website.

Have you visited the Roman Baths? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

Here are posts about other Interesting Museums:

A modern brick building housing the Museum of English Rural Life, surrounded by greenery and a clear blue sky.

Enjoying the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England

This must-see museum of thoughtfully curated exhibits showcases the history of life in rural England.

Eight galleries and an impressive open storage area present artifacts and commentary related to the traditions and challenges related to food production in the English countryside.

I spent a wonderful afternoon at this museum in Reading with associate director Isabel Hughes, who graciously answered my many questions about the museum and then took me on a guided tour.

Collage with two images: the top shows a scenic canal lined with red brick buildings, blooming flower baskets, and a bright blue sky. The bottom features the Museum of English Rural Life sign at the University of Reading, with a red-brick building and leafy surroundings in the background. Overlayed text reads 'Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England' and 'artsytraveler.com' in white on a magenta banner.

This place is a real Artsy Traveler find! And fair warning: this is a LONG post because there is just so much to write about.

Some Background

I lived in Reading for three years a few decades ago. During that time, I attended the University of Reading where I earned my BA in English Language and Literature.

I hadn’t returned to Reading since I graduated, so on a recent trip to England from my home near Vancouver, BC, I decided to make Reading my first stop after flying to Heathrow from Vancouver.

I wasn’t sure what I planned to do during my one afternoon in Reading. I googled museums and discovered the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) run by my alma mater, the University of Reading.

I had never heard of MERL, although Isabel told me the museum was established in 1951 and did indeed exist when I attended the university in the 1970s.

In 2004, the museum moved to its spacious new digs in the former St. Andrew’s Hall, one of the student residences that was around during my time at the university.

Since its expansion, MERL has established itself as one of the United Kingdom’s premier destinations at which to learn about English rural life.

Why I Wanted to Visit the Museum of English Rural Life

I decided to visit MERL for two reasons.

First, it’s a niche museum and as such is a perfect candidate for featuring on Artsy Traveler.

Although I often write about blockbuster museums such as the Rijksmuseum, National Gallery of London, and the Uffizi, my heart beats particularly fast when I discover an off-the-beaten-track museum that my readers may not know about, and that fits with my interests.

The second reason I wanted to visit is because one of my novels titled Hidden Voices is partially set in Devon in the 1880s.

Eliza, my main character, must move with her family from a bucolic rural life in Devon to the “dark, satanic mills” of northern England where most of the novel takes place. In the scenes set in Devon, I wanted to sprinkle in a few more details about rural life that I hoped to find at MERL.

And I wasn’t disappointed! This extensive museum dedicated to farming practices and rural life is a hidden gem—and admission is free or by donation.

Arrival at the Museum of English Rural Life

A few hours prior to visiting MERL, I land at Heathrow after a smooth eight-hour flight from Vancouver. Twenty minutes after deplaning, I’m standing, phone in hand, searching for my Uber.

Most of that time has been taken up with long, long walks through long, long corridors, many rides up and down long escalators and a two-minute wait to go through the electronic customs kiosk.

Since my flight has arrived an hour early, I take the Uber to my hotel before heading to the museum. I’m staying at the Hotel Malmaison (#1 on the map) in downtown Reading, which I highly recommend. After freshening up, I decide to walk the 22 minutes from the hotel to MERL (#2). Here’s a map of Reading:

Along the way, I expect to take a few jaunts down memory lane, but alas, it isn’t to be. Nothing looks the same as I remember from the 1970s—not even close. The Reading skyline bristles with new buildings designed by architects who likely hadn’t been born when I was studying at the university.

When I lived in Reading, there was hardly anywhere to get coffee, much less enjoy a meal. We existed on copious amounts of strong tea; coffee bars were unheard of. And as for eating out, it just wasn’t done, or at least very rarely. Now, every other establishment in Reading serves food, or so it seems as I stroll past the cafes and restaurants in the downtown area.

Along the way, I cross over the Kennet-Avon canal which looks serene and well-groomed in the late August sunshine.

Kennet and Avon Canal in Reading
Kennet-Avon canal in Reading

When I arrive at MERL, associate director Isabel Hughes meets me and, over a very welcome cup of tea, we start our chat.

The Interview

Here’s a summary of my interview with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) at the University of Reading in England.

Carol

What is the purpose of the Museum of English Rural Life?

Isabel

The purpose of the museum is to present exhibits and objects that help visitors understand the human side of English rural life: the production of food, farming practices since the 19th century, and the changing countryside. We like to present the human side of rural life and really celebrate working people since the vast majority of people in the 19th century and into the 20th century either worked on the land or in mills, or were servants.

Farming practices began to change in the late 19th century because of the agricultural depression caused by wheat production in Canada.

Carol

That’s very interesting because in my novel Mill Song, my main character’s family moves from Devon because there is no more farm labor work for the men. I thought it was because of mechanization that jobs became scarce, but there was also an agricultural depression. It’s interesting that Canada was to blame! A lot of people, including many of my ancestors, emigrated from a rural life in the West Country to Canada during the 19th century.

Isabel

MERL was started by the Agriculture Department at the University of Reading in 1951. World War II had ended and there was a push to make agriculture more self-sufficient and productive with the use of insecticides and the development of large farms. But as a result, traditional farming practices were being lost.

The founders of the museum realized this and decided to collect items such as old wagons and hand tools. They went to agricultural shows and talked to farmers, and acquired examples of traditional crafts such as basketry, woodworking, and bodging (making things such as brooms and chairs out of unseasoned green wood).

In 2004, the museum moved to its present location in the former St. Andrew’s Hall of residence, helped in part by funding from Alfred Palmer, a well-known Reading businessperson.

Carol

I well remember taking my exams at Reading University in the Palmer Building! He was quite the benefactor.

What is your number one recommendation for touring the museum?

Isabel

We like people to have a wander and see it all. The huge collection of wagons is particularly impressive. We have wagons from almost every county in England.

An old wagon in the Museum of English Rural Life
One of the many wagons at MERL, this one from Dorset

People can explore the eight galleries and then go upstairs to view our open storage of the thousands of items the museum has collected over the years.

Attached to each artifact is a luggage label; these were the original labels affixed when the artifact was acquired by the museum.

A large collection of farm implements in the open storage area of the museum
A large collection of farm implements in the open storage area of the museum

Another thing that we want people to notice is the textile wall hanging created for the Countryside Pavilion at the Festival of Britain in 1951. It was one of several we acquired. The one on display depicts Cheshire and cheese production.

An enormous wall hanging featuring cheshire and cheese production at the Museum of English Rural Life
An enormous wall hanging featuring Cheshire and cheese production

Carol

What is your favorite exhibit and why?

Isabel

I think my favorite is a pitchfork that was grown in a hedgerow. A branch growing off the shrub was nurtured until it was just the right size and shape for a pitchfork.

It’s made by nature but guided by hand.

A pitchfork grown in a hedgerow at the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England.
Isabel’s favorite, a pitchfork grown from a hedgerow

Carol

What are some of the hidden gems that visitors should check out at MERL?

Isabel

The display of friendly society pole heads is intriguing. A friendly society was a cooperative that workers bought into. If they had a rough time, then the cooperative could help to support them. The pole heads were elaborately carved and resembled pub signs. They were carried in processions such as church parades.

A collection of silver pole heads that resemble English pub signs
Some of the silver pole heads in the MERL collection

Carol

Is this place the only rural museum in England?

Isabel

It is one of the earliest museums but not the only one. There is a rural museum network that includes small community museums. Other large museums like MERL are the National Museum of Rural Life in Scotland and the St. Fagan’s National Museum of History in Wales. There is also the Weald and Downland Living Museum near Chichester, which is where Repair Shop is filmed. We like to think of MERL as the national rural museum for England, but it is not, officially.

Carol

Isabel

We’ve had images from the wall hangings turned into merchandise such as mugs, pencil cases, notebooks, tea towels and bags. We also have tea towels depicting engineering drawings of farm machinery, which are very popular with enthusiasts who are interested in recreating rural farm machinery.

Carol

Are any new exhibits planned?

Isabel

We have quite a few artifacts related to the Roma people that are often not labeled as such. These include photographs of people working the land, and a gypsy wagon. We are starting to re-label these artifacts to feature the history of the Roma people in the English countryside.

A gypsy wagon at the Museum of English Rural Life
A gypsy wagon

Carol

Anything else you’d like to share?

Isabel

At MERL, we have an extensive library and archives containing a wealth of stories. Of particular note is our archive of letters that children evacuees during World War II sent to their parents when they were evacuated from the cities to the countryside. Reading was one of the hubs for evacuee children. Some of the letters were positive, depicting the experience as active and fun, while others were from children who were upset and even mistreated.

The labels affixed to the children when they were put on the train to go into the countryside inspired Michael Bond to write the Paddington Bear books in the 1950s.

A group of children being evacuated from the city during World War II
A group of children being evacuated from the city during World War II

Touring the Museum Galleries

After our chat, Isabel takes me around the museum. Seeing it after talking with her really brings it to life. Throughout the galleries are interactive activities for children. MERL has an active school program and welcomes over 50,000 visitors a year, likely a good proportion of them families.

I love the sheep clad in an Aran sweater in the first main gallery.

A large stuffed sheep wearing an Aran sweater
A large stuffed sheep wearing an Aran sweater greets visitors to the first large gallery

The size of MERL surprises me. The galleries go on forever, each one more chock-a-block with artifacts than the last. You can spend a lot of time here!

One of the very large galleries at the Museum of English Rural Life
One of the very large galleries at the Museum of English Rural Life

Land Girls

I’m particularly taken by the collection of objects and photographs related to the Land Girls—young women who worked on the farms during World War II. Here are photographs of several Land Girls and the uniform they wore.

Photograph of five Land Girls, young women who worked the farms during WW II
Land Girls in World War II

Photograph of the uniform worn by Land Girls, young women who worked the farms during WW II
Land Girls uniform in World War II

The Land Girls experience inspired Land Girls, a British TV series available on Netflix.

Traps

A sobering exhibit features various traps—both for animals and people. The two human traps are particularly horrifying. Anyone caught in one would likely die a very slow and painful death. These traps were placed to prevent poaching.

Two traps used prior to 1827 to catch poachers
Human traps, fortunately outlawed in 1827.

We spend almost an hour roaming through the galleries and viewing the open storage collections on the first floor. I’m very impressed with both the size and the quality of the exhibits and am reminded how, in another life, I would have loved to have been a museum curator.

But being a novelist and travel blogger is also good—and MERL ticks the boxes on both fronts. I’m finding plenty of inspiration for the country scenes in Mill Song. The open storage collection of smocks, many beautifully embellished with traditional smocking, reminds me of what some of my characters may have worn. I can also imagine my main character wearing a bonnet, such as the ones displayed, while she helped with the harvest.

Several smocks hanging in open storage at the Museum of Rural Life
These smocks were likely worn for special occasions

A collection of bonnets worn by women on farms in the 19th century
Bonnets in open storage

New Inspiration

To my delight, MERL sparks inspiration for a new novel based around the story of two evacuees in World War II. After my meeting with Isabel, I scribble several pages of notes about possible characters and plots. It looks like I’m going to have to return to MERL to comb through their extensive archive of letters written by evacuees during World War II.

I can only imagine what treasures await.

As the museum gets set to close, Isabel and I pose for a photo, I purchase a notebook that shows a detail from the Cheshire wall hanging, and say my good-byes.

Carol Cram and Isabel Hughes, co-director of the Museum of English Rural Life
Carol Cram with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life

I walk back to my hotel, enjoy an excellent dinner, and then, finally, turn the lights out at 9. My first day in the UK has been a success.

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in southern England. Most depart from London.

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Conclusion

The Museum of English Rural Life is a specialty museum with broad appeal. Touring a museum dedicated to how food was produced back in the day reminds us of our rural roots–and everyone eats food! No matter where you come from, chances are good that at least a few of your ancestors had something to do with agriculture.

The opening times of Museum of English Rural Life are from 10am to 5pm daily and entrance is free. It is located at 6 Redlands Road in Reading, Berkshire. The museum’s extensive website showcases its many exhibits.

Have you visited this museum or another like it? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

Other Specialty Museums on Artsy Traveler

Visit Rome’s Best Kept Literary Oasis: The Keats-Shelley House

If you’re a fan of English Romantic poets, then you must make a pilgrimage to the Keats-Shelley House in Rome.

This lovely little literary museum is nestled right next to the world famous Spanish Steps in Rome. Thousands of visitors mill around the piazza in front of the steps, climb the steps, and take pictures of the steps.

Yes, the steps really are very attractive–lots of flowers and a striking two-tower church at the top.

Pinterest graphic with the text The Keats-Shelley House. Above the text is a picture of the interior of the museum with old style bookcases. The picture below the text shows busts of the poets Keats and Shelley.

But in the end, the steps are, well, steps. If you go to the Spanish Steps, take a quick pic and then veer right to visit the Keats-Shelley House. You’re in for a first-rate Artsy Traveler experience.

Literary Leanings

If you’ve been reading the Artsy Traveler blog for awhile, you probably know that I write mostly arts-inspired historical novels. My first three novels feature a painter (The Towers of Tuscany), a composer (A Woman of Note), and an actress (The Muse of Fire).

So, as a novelist, I’m a lover of literature, and what could be more literary than two of the greatest Romantic poets?

Also, back in the day when I went to university in England, I took my degree in English Literature. As a result, I studied a lot of poetry, particularly by Shelley.

So to enter rooms where Keats and Shelley hung out, really is a pilgrimage.

A richly stocked library with bookshelves filled with over 8,000 volumes, considered one of the finest Romantic literature collections in the world.

Touring the Keats-Shelley House

The Keats-Shelley House is extremely easy to find thanks to its location next to the Spanish Steps. You’ll also see the banner hanging outside.

The Keats-Shelley House is open from 10 to 1 and 2 to 6, and includes a special rate for seniors.

The ticket person got on my good side by telling us we didn’t qualify for the senior’s rate because it’s only for people over 65. Awww. That was kind of her.

But needless to say, I corrected her and got the reduced rate.

You enter the museum and climb to the first floor where you’ll find the tiny gift shop (more on that later) and the ticket taker.

After paying the entrance fee, turn right to tour a series of beautiful rooms containing a great many treasures and curiosities associated with the lives and works of several of the Romantic poets and their associates.

You’ll see letters written by Keats, Shelley, Bryon, Mary Shelley, Wordsworth, and other luminaries from the time. The evenness of their penmanship puts most modern folks to shame!

Also on display are drawings, snippets of poetry, paintings, and other memorabilia. The explanations are clear and informative.

Why The Poets Loved Italy

Back in the 18th and 19th centuries, with a decade or two off during the beginning of the 19th century for the Napoleonic Wars, Italy was a mecca for poets and writers from northern climes, including the Romantic poets from England, and Goethe from Germany.

These writers loved Italy’s warm weather, easy-going life, and the inspiration to be found in so many centuries of history. What attracted them to Italy back then isn’t so very different from what attracts me to Italy today.

It’s a very special country with so much to offer. No wonder I keep coming back year after year!

Rooms in the Keats-Shelley House

The rooms in the Keats-Shelley House include a library of more than 8,000 volumes. It’s considered one of the finest libraries of Romantic literature in the world.

Thoughtfully presented displays provide you with a lot to read as you prowl around the rooms. You could spend a great deal of time here!

library in Keats shelley house in Rome

The tour through the rooms ends at the tiny bedroom where John Keats died on February 23, 1821 at the age of just 25. It’s astonishing how he was able to compose so much sublime poetry in so few years. The museum includes plenty of information in English and Italian about Keats, his life, his tragic death, and of course his poetry.

Was it a vision, or a waking dream?
Fled is that music:—Do I wake or sleep?

From Ode to a Nightingale

Here is the bed on which Keats died.

A simple bedroom where poet John Keats passed away, showcasing a modest bed and period furnishings.

Byron’s Bicentenary

At first, I was mystified by the several banners related to Byron on display in the main library. After all, it’s the Keats-Shelley House. The very friendly and knowledgeable attendant told us that the House is celebrating the Bicentenary of Byron’s death in 1824.

His poetry is figured prominently on red banners. I haven’t read Byron for many years, so it was a real treat to reacquaint myself with some of his poetry.

banner containing poetry by Byron at the Keats-Shelley House in Rome

We had a great chat with the attendant about the poets, Mary Shelley and her mum Mary Wollstonecraft, and the arts in general.

I mentioned that I’d interviewed Samantha Silva, author of Love and Fury about Mary Wollstonecraft on The Art In Fiction Podcast. Since the attendant was obviously interested in the era, I figured she may want to read the novel (highly recommended, by the way). She was delighted to learn about it and promised to look up the podcast.

I also told her about my novels and gave her one of my bookmarks because, well, marketing.

The Terrace

A highlight of a visit to the Keats-Shelley House is walking out on to the sweet little terrace overlooking the Spanish Steps. Imagine Keats and the gang sitting out there on a warm May afternoon sipping tea and talking poetry!

It’s pretty cool to think that the view Keats saw wasn’t all that dissimilar to the view we see today.

A vibrant view of the Spanish Steps in Rome, adorned with colorful flowers, leading up to the twin towers of Trinità dei Monti Church. Visitors gather around the piazza in front of the steps.

The house included drawings of the Piazza Spagna and the steps in the early 19th century, and indeed, not much has changed if you look above the ground floor shops.

The Gift Shop

After thoroughly enjoying touring the rooms, we exited via the gift shop. I couldn’t resist buying myself a cloth bag with a Grecian Urn on it, homage to Keats’s Ode to a Grecian Urn.

I also studied the collection of fridge magnets. We’ve taken to buying them most places we visit. Back home, our fridge door is getting pretty full up, but there’s always room for one more, or in this case, three.

I couldn’t decide which magnet to buy–Keats, Shelley, or Bryon–and so I bought all three.

Here they are–Keats on the left, Shelley in the middle, and Byron on the right. These guys were all in the twenties and early thirties when they were hanging out together, and all three died young.

They’re a bit like the rock stars of their time–living with unbridled passion and energy that burned out quickly, but wow, what a legacy they each left in their wake!

Keats, Shelley, Byron fridge magnets

Conclusion

Have you visited the Keats-Shelley House in Rome? What did you think Share your impressions in the comments below for other Artsy Travelers.

Artsy Tours in Rome

I couldn’t find any literary-themed tours in Rome on GetYourGuide, so here’s a selection of tours related to music and also a tour of locations mentioned in Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code series.

Note that I include tours listed on the GetYourGuide website because I’ve taken and enjoyed many of their tours.

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Other Literary Leaning Posts on Artsy Traveler

How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

Naples-bound? Then put the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli aka the National Archaeological Museum of Naples high on your list of must-sees.

I’ve visited Pompeii twice before my most recent trip in 2024 and both times, I never managed to visit the Naples National Archaeological Museum. I came close when visiting with my family in 1994. We took a taxi from our hotel to the museum on our way to Pompeii only to find it closed.

In those pre-Google days, I’d neglected to read the guide book.

A detailed mosaic depicting various birds, plants, and animals, overlaid with the text, “Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.” The bottom section features the website "artsytraveler.com."

So on my latest trip I was determined to finally see the museum because it houses the vast majority of the art excavated from ancient Pompeii and Herculaneum and is considered one of the best archeological museums in the world.

Museum & Naples at a Glance

  • Take a guided tour of the museum
  • Museum highlights:
    • The sculpture collection, particularly Hercules at Rest
    • Collection of everyday objects is a poignant reminder of the people who lived and died in Pompeii
    • The “Zootopia” mosaic with its bevy of wild animals
    • Portrait of the poet Sappho
  • Great apartment to stay in Naples: Palazzorefici
  • Recommended tour of Naples that includes Pompeii. 

See the National Archaeological Museum of Naples First!

Now that I’ve toured the National Archaeological Museum, I can without hesitation recommend that you go there first and then tour the ruins of Pompeii and/or Herculaneum. Both cities were buried in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 CE, with excavations starting at far back as the 16th century.

As you’ll discover, Pompeii and Herculaneum are pretty much all ruins (quel surprise!) with the vast majority of the frescoes, mosaics, and statues long ago removed to the National Archaeological Museum.

Also, to be honest, wandering around Pompeii in the heat (I visited in late April and it was 30 degrees) with thousands of other visitors is not as comfortable an experience as strolling through room after room in the thoughtfully air conditioned National Archaeological Museum of Naples.

Overview of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

In this post, I’ll share some of my favorite parts of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples (MANN) with the proviso that the museum is chock-a-block with amazing objects from antiquity.

I’ve rarely seen such a beautifully appointed museum where just about every item in it is worth a stop and a good long look.

You can easily visit the National Archaeological Museum in about two to three hours, depending on your energy level. You’ll also find a good cafe so you can take a break for refueling after touring a floor or two.

I did, and it made all the difference to my enjoyment of the museum.

The exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, a grand pink building with arched windows, statues, and palm trees lining the street under a clear blue sky.
Exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples

When I toured MANN in late April, the crowds were light (unlike the next day in Pompeii!) and I waited only a few minutes at the entrance to buy tickets.

In busier times of the year, you may want to skip the ticket line by buying your tickets online from the museum’s website or through resellers such as Get Your Guide.

Plan of Attack

The museum is organized according to type of art, so you’ll find rooms full of artifacts from Pompeii, including sculptures, mosaics, everyday objects, frescoes, and coins.

I saw most of what was on display in the sculpture, mosaic, everyday objects, and fresco areas. The quality of the work is awe-inspiring.

I suggest starting with the sculptures on the ground floor and then going to the top floor and working your way down. Doing so minimizes stair climbs (there’s an elevator to whisk you to the second floor) and conserves energy.

Sculptures

Start with sculptures because they are the first things you see when you enter the museum.

Wowza! They are stunning. I didn’t expect to see so many really large sculptures that looked like they were chiseled yesterday when in fact they are almost 2000 years old.

Here’s a selection of my favorites.

Hercules at Rest

Even big guys like Hercules can use some time off now and again. This massive sculpture of old Herc shows him leaning on his club. The sculpture is a Roman copy from the end of the 2nd/beginning of the 3rd Century CE of a Greek statue from the second half of the 4th century BCE. The subject of Hercules at rest is a very popular one. It shows him exhausted and pensive after having undertaken yet another labor for his cousin Eurytheus.

While the top half of Hercules sags with fatigue, his legs and feet still look dynamic, as if he was ready to spring into action (yet again) at any moment. The sheer size of the statue took my breath away–and it’s just one of many dozens of sculptures in MANN.

A massive marble statue of Hercules standing, leaning on his club draped with a lion’s skin. The muscular figure is displayed in a grand hall with museum visitors in the background.

Hercules is part of the Farnese Collection, which was one of the first collections of artistic items from Greco-Roman antiquity.

It was started by  Cardinal Alessandro Farnese (he later became Pope Paul III) back in the 16th century when collecting antiquities started being all the rage. Many of the works in MANN are from his collection.

Dog Sculptures

Large sculptures dominate the rooms, but they are by no means the only sculptures worth admiring at MANN. Here are three incredibly charming sculptures of Roman pooches. They look like they could come to life at any minute and run toward you, tails wagging.

A marble sculpture of a dog sitting and scratching itself with its hind leg, carved with detailed musculature and a lifelike posture.
Two marble statues of dogs seated on stone bases, both with their heads tilted upwards, possibly barking or howling. The detailed carvings highlight the dogs’ muscular forms and expressive faces.
A marble statue of a dog lying down on a stone base, its body relaxed and head slightly raised. The sculpture captures the animal’s muscular build and detailed features.

Athena

Athena is the Goddess of Wisdom, along with warfare and handicrafts. The next time you pick up a knitting project, call on Athena for some extra guidance!

This sculpture (bigger than can possibly be portrayed in a photo) really shows off Athena’s robes in all their pleated glory.

A marble statue of the goddess Athena in full armor, holding out a shield-like cloth decorated with a gorgon’s face. The statue stands tall in a museum setting with visitors in the background.

Bust of a Woman

I don’t know who this is but I love her hair! At least I think the bust is of a woman’s head.

She looks a bit careworn, perhaps from having to cope with all those corkscrew locks every day. I also loved the black stone–an interesting break from the predominantly cream-colored marble used to create most of the other sculptures in MANN.

It’s hard to believe this sculpture dates back two millennia. Like most of the sculptures in MANN, the bust is in near perfect shape.

A bronze bust of a woman’s head with intricate spiral-patterned hair. The sculpture rests on a pedestal, showing lifelike facial features and detailed craftsmanship.

Petite Figure

This small statuette of a child is one of several equally adorable pieces. You can understand how the artists descended from the ones who sculpted these pieces came up with cupids!

The pieces look incredibly lifelike.

A marble sculpture of a young boy seated, holding a cornucopia filled with fruits. The sculpture captures intricate details of the boy’s curly hair and gentle expression.

Everyday Objects

For me, a highlight of the MANN collection is the vast array of household and everyday objects that were salvaged from Pompeii during excavations that began in the late 18th century. Many of the objects were remarkably preserved–pots, glassware, small statues of household gods, combs, jewelry, cooking utensils–you name it.

The ancient Roman versions of pretty much everything humans need to cook, clean, and live in houses is on display.

It turns out that Romans aren’t all that different from us when it comes to the stuff they had in their houses. Take away our electronics and indoor plumbing, and we’re left with similar objects to those used by the average Pompeii resident: wine bottles, cooking pots, jewelry, cups, combs, chairs, and the like.

Here are some particularly fine examples of the household objects salvaged from the ruins of both Herculaneum and Pompeii.

Glass Cup

Can you believe this cup is 2000 years old? I was astonished to see it in the display, but yup, according to the description. the object is a “so-called millefiori ribbon small cup” from Pompeii in the 1st century CE.

It looks like something I could buy today in Venice.

A colorful ancient glass cup with vibrant blue, green, and white stripes accented by yellow bands, displayed on a reflective surface with a small numbered label "4" in front.

Terracotta Frog

Is this little guy not the sweetest thing? It’s a statuette of a frog made from lead-glazed terracotta. I’m not sure what he was used for, but he sure caught my eye.

And he was just one of many, many such objects artfully displayed in room after well-lit room at MANN.

A terracotta sculpture of a frog with a wide mouth, seated on a base. The texture and details of the frog’s body are finely crafted.

Deep Wine Cup

Look at the handiwork on this lead-glazed terracotta wine cup! It’s decorated with vegetable motifs and doves. Imagine drinking your wine out of that!

A brown ceramic wine cup with two handles shaped like animal heads. The surface is decorated with floral patterns and intricate detailing.

Cosmetic Jar

Ladies in Pompeii wore cosmetics just like women do today. But with plastic rather lacking, they stored their cosmetics in glass containers such as the one shown below.

Again, it looks brand new! The jar is described as free-blown glass from the 1st century CE.

A cylindrical blue glass container with a fitted lid, labeled with the number "3." The container’s surface has minor scratches and signs of age.

Blue Glass Pitcher

And last but not least, I have to include this perfect example of a free-blown glass pitcher. Look at the color! There were also many, many more examples of pitchers blown in darker tones as well as clear glass.

I still can’t get over how they survived the blast, but I guess the ash buried things so thoroughly that they were preserved during the 1800 odd years they lay undisturbed. Remarkable!

A deep blue ancient glass vase with a curved handle and narrow spout, displayed against a white background. The surface shows subtle signs of wear.

Mosaics

The people of Pompeii and Herculaneum sure liked their mosaics. The floors of many houses, particularly those belonging to rich people (of which there were quite a few in Pompeii), were decorated with mosaics.

The mosaics in MANN give just a taste of just how opulent the homes must have been. The intricacy of the mosaics really is breathtaking.

Zootopia Mosaic

Here is a series of three mosaics, displayed in horizontal format, but shown here in three parts to better check out the imagery. Each of these mosaics includes a bevy of wild animals–from hippos to snakes to ducks to crocodiles. What a tour de force!

An elaborate mosaic showing a hippopotamus with an open mouth, ducks, and a crocodile in a marsh setting. The scene is filled with reeds and blooming flowers.
A detailed mosaic featuring ducks, snakes, and a boar set among water plants and flowers. The snakes are shown coiling and slithering in the water.
A vibrant mosaic depicting ducks swimming in water, surrounded by lotus flowers and plants. The ducks are shown in various poses with intricate feather details.

Dog Mosaic

The Romans definitely liked dogs! Here’s another depiction of a dog–this time in mosaic form. This image is very popular; it’s on various products sold in the gift shop, including bags, fridge magnets, and mouse pads.

I did buy a fridge magnet at the MANN gift shop, but of Sappho (see below) not the dog!

A Roman mosaic featuring a black dog on a leash, shown mid-stride with its mouth open, against a background of small white tiles. The leash is highlighted in red.

Sea Creatures

Can you imagine the imagination that concocted this delectable cornucopia of sea creatures? Wow! I particularly like the giant octopus in the middle. The mosaic also reminds me of the kinds of displays you’d see in 19th century natural history museums.

A detailed mosaic depicting various sea creatures, including fish, an octopus, a lobster, and eels, all set against a dark background. The intricate artwork highlights the diversity of marine life.

Frescoes

Paintings galore! You won’t believe how many paintings and frescoes you’ll find at MANN. This is because the Romans lavishly painted the inside walls of their villas and added painted embellishments just about anywhere there was a blank wall.

That so many of these paintings survived the eruption of Vesuvius is truly remarkable.

The Romans were unbelievably good painters. They’d mastered perspective and realism 1500 years before the Renaissance. So many of the paintings in MANN look like they could have been painted in the past few hundred years, particularly the gorgeous still lifes.

Here’s my best picks at MANN.

Isis & Snakes

Snakes are quite a recurring theme in the paintings in MANN. I’m not sure why that is; perhaps sea serpents were bigger and more threatening back in the day.

For whatever reason, you’ll see snakes depicted in mosaics and frescoes, and included as details on pots, urns, and other objects.

This fresco, which had once graced the wall of a villa in Pompeii, shows Isis hauling the boat with the body of Osiris along the Nile accompanied by snakes lurking below the surface. Cheerful.

An ancient fresco showing two busts of figures flanking a scene of a boat on water with a shrine and a bird. Beneath them are two large, coiled snakes and a small temple-like structure.

Still Lifes

I couldn’t believe the quality and quantity of still life paintings at MANN. The realism truly is incredible. I have a soft spot for still lifes (see my post about the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam where some of my fave still lifes are exhibited).

I never knew that the ancient Romans were so adept at creating them.

Here are two still lifes–one of dead birds and mushrooms, and the other of a bunny with onions.

A fresco depicting dead birds hanging on a wooden rod above a collection of mushrooms. The muted colors and detailed rendering capture a sense of realism.
A fresco still life depicting a dead rabbit lying on a wooden surface alongside figs and pomegranates. The painting shows detailed textures of the fur and fruits.

Erotica

Don’t miss the Secret Room if you’re inclined to view the museum’s extensive collection of erotic and sexually-themed objects and paintings salvaged from Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The room was finally re-opened in 2000 with a display that organizes objects according to their, ah, function and material. 

It’s a bit of an eye-opener, but definitely interesting and proving there is nothing new under the sun!

Portraits

MANN includes several portraits of Romans in its collection. One of the most famous is the portrait of the baker Therentius Neo and his wife. Don’t they look contemporary?

Walking along the streets of Naples after visiting MANN brought us face to face with several of their descendants!

A Roman fresco showing a man and a woman, both holding writing instruments and scrolls. The woman wears a red garment and the man a white tunic, symbolizing literacy and social standing.

Here is another very famous portrait, this one of the poet Sappho, or at least that’s how it’s billed. The truth is that we don’t know if the portrait is actually of Sappho. It’s rather a “typological” representation of a young woman holding a stylus and a wax tablet–two things the real poet Sappho would likely have.

Anyway, it’s nice to think the portrait really is of Sappho which is probably why the image is everywhere in the gift shop, including on the fridge magnet I bought.

A fresco depicting a woman, believed to be the poet Sappho, holding a stylus to her lips and a wax tablet in her other hand. She has curly hair and wears gold earrings, set against a cracked circular frame.

Could This be My Next Character?

And finally, I came across this lovely mosaic portrait of a young woman. According to the description, the mosaic dates to the Julian-Claudian era (27 BCE to 68 CE) in Pompeii. She’s likely pretty high born (check out the necklace).

I love how she looks directly out at the viewer. If I do decide to write a novel set in ancient Rome (and I am toying with some ideas), then this mosaic could be the image of my main character!

An ancient mosaic portrait of a young woman with dark hair tied back, wearing pearl earrings and a necklace. Her gaze is serious, and the background is composed of brown mosaic tiles

Tour Options in the Naples Area

Here are some Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com tickets and tours you may wish to consider while in the Naples area. I frequently purchase tours and tickets from Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com and have yet to be disappointed. The tours they include on their website are, in my experience, reasonably priced and interesting.

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Walking Tours of Naples

If you enjoy walking tours, then you can’t go wrong with GuruWalks. Check out their tours in Naples.

Where to Stay in Naples

Here are the two places I’ve stayed in Naples:

The Hotel Paradiso is located on Posillipo Hill and has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.

The Palazzorefici is a stylish apartment deep in the heart of Naples on a tiny side street. It’s close to a main street where you can easily get taxis to where you want to go in Naples.

Conclusion

In this post, I’ve just scratched the surface of the collection at the National Archaeological Museum of Naples. I recommend you make time in your itinerary to visit, preferably as I said earlier, before you visit Pompeii.

In fact, if I had to choose between visiting Pompeii and visiting the museum, I’d choose the museum. Yes, I know that the ruins are way more famous–and they are pretty impressive. However, they truly are mobbed with visitors.

And they are BIG! If you can, visit very early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid the heat. Alternatively, visit at a time of year when temperatures are less ferocious. There is virtually no shade anywhere.

Have you visited the National Archaeological Museum in Naples? What were some of your favorite objects? Share in the comments below.

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