Things to See at the Design Museum in London

Arts & Culture, Destinations, England, Europe, Museums Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 15th, 2025 at 06:54 pm

London’s new-to-me Design Museum is indeed quite new. Founded in 1989, it moved in 2016 to its spacious digs in South Kensington adjacent to Holland Park from a former 1940s banana warehouse on the South Bank.

Now the Design Museum hosts millions of visitors each year.

And no wonder! The Design Museum’s vision is “A world in which design enables this planet and its inhabitants to thrive.” Innovative exhibitions, partnerships, research and learning programs celebrate design in all its forms.

Pinterest graphic with the text "Enjoying Your Visit to the Design Museum in London" over a picture of the interior of the Design Museum in London, England.

I highly recommend a visit to the Design Museum in London. Unlike many museums that are full of objects we can admire but never use, the Design Museum features objects we all use every day—from teaspoons to computers to cars. It’s fascinating to see the integral role design has played in shaping our modern world. Read on to learn what there is to see and do at the Design Museum in London!

Things to See in the Design Museum in London

Located on Kensington High Street near Holland Park, the Design Museum’s newly renovated building is spacious, airy, and chock full of interesting things to look at.

Admission to the permanent collection at the Design Museum (1) is free, just like so many of London’s major museums including the Victoria and Albert Museum (2), the National Gallery (3), and the British Museum (4).

Trip map created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

In addition to the marvelous permanent collection called Designer Maker User, the Design Museum houses several special exhibitions which do require tickets.

Check the Design Museum’s website to see if any of the special exhibitions interest you, buy your ticket online in advance, and then make sure you save some energy to tour the permanent collection. Tickets for popular exhibitions, such as Barbie: The Exhibition that I saw in September 2024 and the current Tim Burton Exhibition that runs to April 21, 2025, sell out quickly.

Barbie: The Exhibition at the Design Museum in London

If you’re visiting London this fall or winter, then run, don’t walk to see Barbie: The Exhibition before it closes on February 23, 2025. The story of the iconic doll’s evolution from a design and marketing perspective is fascinating.

The bright, colorful (and VERY pink) Barbie exhibition at the Design Museum in London showcases Barbie’s development from her creation in 1959 to her hundreds of iterations today and includes a nod to the 2024 Barbie movie.

Portion of the Barbie exhibition at the Design Museum in London — Part of the very colorful Barbie Exhibition at the Design Museum in London

My First Barbie

I got my first Barbie when I was eight years old, and I remember loving her. I also remember my older brother trying to put my Barbie through the wringer washer. Fortunately, she survived surprisingly intact. That plastic was made to last!

My mom sewed clothes for my Barbie, a monumental achievement considering the teeny tiny size of Barbie clothes. At the time, I took her incredible skill for granted. As I gazed down at the Barbie clothes on display in the Barbie exhibition, I was astonished anew by my mother’s abilities and achievements.

For obvious reasons, I particularly liked the displays of the early Barbies. I remember coveting the high-priced Barbie Dreamhouse and Barbie cars, but they were out of reach for my family. I did know a few very wealthy girls at school who had them and were the envy of us all. Here is a selection of cars from Barbie’s early years.

Barbie Cars at the Design Museum in London

Barbie’s Success Story

Barbie sure is a design success story. The doll has evolved over the years, and while still essentially a stick-thin glamor girl, she has had some iterations that bring her closer to real life. There are different body shapes, different ethnicities and different head shapes.

I’m particularly impressed by all the ways in which Barbie is shown to participate in the world—from Firefighter Barbie to Astronaut Barbie to President Barbie.

Barbie Dolls at the Design Museum in London

Barbie has become a much healthier role model for young girls than she was back in the 1960s. My first dolls were baby dolls in keeping with the emphasis in the 1950s on preparing girls for motherhood. Having a doll that looked glamorous, had long hair that I could brush, and that wore pretty clothes was a revelation. But the concept of a Firefighter Barbie or an Astronaut Barbie or even a Management Consultant Barbie was foreign territory indeed.

So yeah, we’ve come a long way since 1959 when Barbie first hit the market!

I’m Just Ken!

Barbie: The Exhibition does not neglect good ‘ole Ken. I snapped this photo of a collection of Kens standing tall and proud in a case of their own.

Collection of Ken dolls at the Design Museum in London

Exploring the Permanent Collection at the Design Museum in London

After touring Barbie: The Exhibition, I ascended to the third floor to tour the permanent collection of the Design Museum and admire the museum’s interior space.

That to See in the Designer Maker User Collection

The permanent collection at the Design Museum is called Designer Maker User and it’s a stunner! The curators have done an excellent job of explaining various design concepts through the display of everyday objects, from spoons to chairs to computers.

The exhibit features over 1000 objects divided into three segments: Designer, Maker, and User .

Designer at the Design Museum

The objects in the Designer section are displayed in ways that invite the visitor to contemplate the thought process of the designer who must envision how the designed object will be used. I like the quote on one of the information plaques: “The role of the designer stretches from the spoon to the city.”

In this section are displayed objects such as a traffic light, the Anglepoise lamp, and a Tube carriage.

Maker at the Design Museum

The Maker section presents objects in relation to the evolution of manufacturing. Included are café chairs, a Model T Ford, robotic arms, and 3D printers. Objects such as tennis balls and the London 2012 Olympic Torch are presented at different stages of production.

As I wandered through the exhibits, I was constantly amazed by the ingenuity of the human mind. Take tennis, for instance. First, someone had to want a ball they could bounce and hit with a racket. Then, someone else had to figure out how to make a prototype of the ball. Finally, a whole team of brainiacs had to figure out how to manufacture thousands of balls so that anyone who wanted to could play tennis. Mind-boggling!

User at the Design Museum

The User section explores the interaction between people and brands that define the modern world. As a computer user for many decades, I was especially taken by the display of electronics, from the clunky Apple computers of the 1980s to the sleek Macs of today. The red Sony laptop in the picture below is identical to one I had a good twenty years ago. I really liked that computer!

Computers at the Design Museum in London

Crowdsourced Wall at the Design Museum

Outside the Designer User Maker exhibit is the Crowdsourced Wall. Here are displayed more than 200 objects that people from 25 countries nominated as their most important objects. The diverse selection of objects is meant to “demonstrate the intimate relationships we have with the everyday objects that shape our lives.”

Items on display include a red bucket, an Underground sign, a bicycle, a green plastic stool, a sewing machine, a drill, a mop, a pair of jeans, and a lot more. The fascinating selection is so much fun to look at since these are objects that we all know and use.

The Crowdsourced Wall of everyday objects at the Design Museum in London

Checking Out the Rods at the Design Museum

I am arrested by a display of…rods! I didn’t know rods were a thing in the UK, but they certainly were a cherished part of my early school years. For those who don’t know, rods are various colored plastic rectangles used to teach children arithmetic.

A white rod represents one and is one-tenth the size of an orange rod that represents ten. In between are red for two, green for three, and so on. When I was in Grades 1 and 2, the highlight of a day was when you finished your work early and the teacher let you go to the back of the room to “play rods.” I spent many a happy hour solving arithmetic problems with the tactile aid of those plastic rectangles that felt so smooth and were so pleasingly colored. Rods are still in use to this day, although my daughter doesn’t remember having them when she was at school in the 1990s.

What a shame for her! I credit rods with giving me a lifelong penchant for arithmetic. Mathematics? Not so much, but I’m a dab hand at addition, subtraction, multiplication and division without a calculator! Thank you, rods.

A box of rods used to solve arithmetic problems at the Design Museum in London — A display of rods used to teach children arithmetic

The box of rods on display at the Design Museum isn’t the only object that catapults me down memory lane. The entire museum is one big time-travel experience.

If you use household objects (and who doesn’t?), then check out the Design Museum. You’re bound to find at least a few displays that trigger happy memories.

The Design Museum Shop

After you’ve toured the exhibits, check out the stylish gift shop. You’ll find all sorts of cool design items there.

Practical Information about the Design Museum in London

The Design Museum is located at 224–238 Kensington High Street and is open Monday to Thursday from 10:00 to 17:00, and Friday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Some ticketed exhibitions may remain open later on weekends. The Design Museum is closed on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day. Admission to the permanent collection is free. Check the website for more information.

Touring London

London is full of intriguing museums and experiences, some very much off-the-beaten path. GetYourGuide has plenty of options to choose from. Here are a few:

Staying in London

London is not an inexpensive city, but nevertheless, I’ve discovered some excellent places to stay that, while not bargain basement, are good value and centrally located.

On a recent trip to London, I stayed at the Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel. Located right across the street from Victoria Station, the Park Plaza Victoria (5 on the map at the beginning of this post) is a remarkably good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London. My room for two was spacious and even had a view over London.

The Wilde ApartHotel (6) in central London is also a wonderful choice. I loved its central location within walking distance of Trafalgar Square and most of the West End theaters. Check out my post about the Wilde ApartHotel.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Design Museum? What were your favorite exhibits? Did you see a special exhibition? Share your experiences and recommendations in the Comments below.

Here are links to posts about three of my favorite London galleries and museums:

How to Get the Most Out of Your Visit to the Victoria & Albert Museum in London

Arts & Culture, Destinations, England, Europe, Museums Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 31st, 2025 at 05:07 am

The Victoria and Albert Museum is one of the world’s most amazing repositories of, well, beautiful stuff.

It’s a collector’s dream come true with astonishing examples of the decorative arts and the applied arts. You’ll find everything from costumes to metal gates to furniture to bracelets and everything in between.

There is so much to see at London’s Victoria and Albert museum that you need to pace yourself and have a plan.

You can’t really define the V&A because it’s just so eclectic.

A split image showing the iconic entrance and courtyard of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London with the text "The Victoria and Albert Museum in London" and "artsytraveler.com."

Think of an object and the V&A probably has an example of a version made with exquisite skill by someone somewhere in the world.

It’s a sensual feast for the eyes and a testament to the ingenuity of human beings and their commitment to fashioning objects that are not only functional but gorgeous.

There are so many things to see that you could spend days exploring—it’s HUGE! In this post, I share my recommendations for seeing the best of the V&A.

V&A at a Glance

Favorite Gallery: It’s a tie between Fashion and Glass
Favorite Piece: Bed of Ware
Where to Stay in London: Park Plaza Victoria
Recommended V&A Tour: Guided Private Tour

Overview of the Victoria and Albert Museum

The V&A museum is high on my list of favorite museums. Almost every time I go to London, I pop into the V&A. No matter how often I visit, I still discover new things to look at.

The only problem with this incredible museum is that it’s impossible to see and appreciate all of it in one visit, or two, or ten. I’ve visited at least five times over the years, and I feel like I haven’t even scratched the surface.

The museum lives up to its reputation as the world’s largest museum of art and design.

The V&A was established in 1852 with collections from the Great Exhibition of 1851, and was originally called the Museum of Manufactures and then the South Kensington Museum.

Queen Victoria laid the foundation stone of the current location in 1899 and changed the name to the Victoria and Albert Museum to include her late husband Prince Albert.

Location of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London

The V&A is located near the South Kensington underground station and alongside several of London’s largest South Kensington museums.

If you love museums, make a day of it. Visit the V&A (1), and then hop on over to the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum (2 & 3 on the map). Both are excellent places to visit with children.

Better still, spread the visits over two days. Museum-hopping can be exhausting. Go at your own pace and take time to explore nearby Hyde Park (4) and Kensington Gardens (5) for a nature break.

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Visiting the Victoria and Albert Museum in London

Yes, the V&A is huge and yes, there’s a ton to see, but you have to start somewhere. Your best bet when first visiting is to select five or six galleries to explore, occasionally veering into exhibition rooms en route when something catches your eye.

List of Galleries

Architecture
Britain (1500 – 1760)
Britain (1760 – 1900)
Buddhism
Cast Courts
Ceramics
China
Contemporary Glass
Design (1900 – Now)
Europe (1600 – 1815)
Fashion
Furniture
Glass
Gold, Silver & Mosaics

Himalayas & Southeast Asia
Ironwork
Islamic Middle East
Japan
Jewelry
Korea
Leighton
Medieval & Renaissance (300 – 1600)
Metalware
Paintings
Photography Centre
Portrait Miniatures

Prints & Drawings
The Raphael Cartoons
Sacred Silver & Stained Glass
Sculpture
Sculpture (1300 – 1600)
Silver
South Asia
South Asian Sculpture
Tapestries
Theatre & Performance

Daunting? You betcha! Note that some galleries may be closed. Start your visit by checking at the information desk to find out what’s open. For example, the Theatre & Performance gallery was not open when I visited in September, 2024.

So where to start?

A bright view of the grand entrance to the Victoria and Albert Museum, showcasing the building's intricate white stone architecture against a clear blue sky. — Exterior of the Victoria and Albert Museum on Cromwell Road in Kensington

Arriving at the Victoria and Albert Museum

First, walk up the steps and enter the museum’s massive atrium. Straight ahead is a large information area—your first stop.

Put your wallet away (unless you’re planning to see the special exhibition) because admission to the permanent collection is FREE. I know. Amazing!

You can make a donation (I always do), but you don’t have to. The attendants at the information booth will give you a map and may also suggest you purchase the guidebook.

For £5, it’s a bargain because it gives you an overview of the highlights of each gallery.

Special Exhibitions

You can choose to buy a ticket to the special exhibition. A few weeks before you visit the V&A, check what’s on and make reservations. Popular exhibitions often sell out quickly.

Getting Started

Once you’ve purchased your guidebook, or even just armed with the free map, walk straight through the gift shop (you can come back later!) and out into the courtyard.

Buy something to drink from the kiosk and settle down at one of the tables (weather permitting) to check the map and/or guidebook.

The exterior courtyard of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, featuring the building's red brick façade, a circular fountain, and manicured greenery, including a topiary tree in a planter. — Courtyard at the V&A

While sipping your beverage of choice, figure out which areas you want to focus on and where they are in the museum. You want to avoid backtracking.

The beauty of the V&A is that even if you’ve decided to tour only six galleries, you’ll see plenty more as you walk through the museum from chosen gallery to chosen gallery. Don’t be surprised if you’re tempted to veer off to check out a gallery you hadn’t intended to visit.

Give in to these impulses. The V&A truly is a treasure trove!

Now you’re ready to start your tour. Go slowly and pace yourself. Beauty overload is a thing!

Here are just some of the hundreds (thousands?) of things to see at the V&A.

Things to See at the Victoria and Albert Museum

I’m focusing here on six galleries: Fashion, Asian (which includes several areas), Furniture, Cast Court, Glass, and Jewelry.

Fashion Gallery

I always drop into the fashion collection, located in the central area of the main floor. Here, you’ll find a unique collection of European clothing and textiles spanning from 1750 to the present.

I particularly enjoy the 18^th- and 19^th-century dresses. Can you imagine wearing so many hoops and corsets? Here’s an elaborate dress from the 1760s.

A museum display of an ornate 18th-century floral gown with a full skirt and corseted bodice. The dress is set against a historical backdrop alongside a wooden string instrument.

Asian Art and Objects at the Victoria and Albert Museum

This is a broad category that includes art and objects from several regions: Japan, Korea, China, South Asia and Himalayas, and Southeast Asia. Take a stroll through the galleries to enjoy an amazing collection of articles.

Highlights for me are the Samurai armor collection in the Japan section, a golden Buddha, jade objects from China, delicate porcelain, and so many more treasures.

An interesting—if rather gruesome—piece is Tipu’s Tiger in the South Asia and Himalayas section. This wooden sculpture was made for Tipu Sultan, ruler of Mysore in South India.

When the handle on the side of the tiger is turned, the ghastly noises produced imitate the wails of agony of the British soldier lying underneath the tiger. Apparently, this exhibit was one of the most popular in the East India Company’s museum.

A unique wooden sculpture depicting a tiger attacking a British soldier, with vibrant colors and intricate carving. The piece is housed in a glass display case with accompanying text panels.

And although not part of the Asian galleries, take a quick detour to check out the Ardabil carpet, which is the world’s oldest dated carpet. Although its exact origins are unknown, the carpet was made sometime during the 16th century.

It’s a stunner.

Furniture Gallery

Examples of furniture are scattered throughout many of the galleries in the V&A. In addition, the Dr. Susan Weber Gallery of Furniture showcases how furniture was been made and decorated for over 600 years. Included are items from the Renaissance to the present.

Bed of Ware

One of the most interesting pieces of furniture is in the Britain 1500 – 1760 gallery. Definitely make a detour to check out the Great Bed of Ware, so famous in its day that it was mentioned by Shakespeare.

The famous bed is three meters wide and apparently able to comfortably accommodate four couples (at least!). It was constructed around 1590 as a tourist attraction for an inn in Ware, Hertfordshire, which was a day’s journey from London and a convenient overnight stop for travelers bound for Cambridge and points north.

The initials that visitors carved into the bed posts and the headboard are still visible today.

A historic four-poster bed with ornate dark wood carvings and bright red and yellow curtains. The bed is displayed in a dimly lit museum gallery.

Cast Courts

The massive sculptures in the Cast Courts are the showstopping, must-see areas of the V&A. You’ll be able to view the two huge, connected courts from many angles as you make your way up through the four levels of the museum.

Look down from one of the walkways on the third or fourth level and find yourself faced with a bewildering hodge podge of iconic statues, altarpieces, and even columns.

Why go to Florence when you can visit the cast courts at the V&A instead? It’s like a souvenir store for giants.

These plaster casts of great art and architecture from around the world were collected and displayed for visitors to study.

One of the many highlights is Michelangelo’s David. Apparently, Queen Victoria was shocked by the anatomical correctness of the David cast and requested that a suitably proportioned fig leaf be made and hung on the statue when dignitaries visited.

My source didn’t specify if regular visitors were allowed to view the full Monty, so to speak.

A wide view of a museum's cast court filled with replicas of famous sculptures, including Michelangelo's David, surrounded by detailed architectural elements and other statues.

Another highlight is the reproduction of Trajan’s column. The original is too tall to include in the building and so the reproduction is divided into two massive columns.

I’ve seen the original in Rome, and because of the column’s height, it’s difficult to see the detail. At the V&A, you can get pretty close to the columns to view the intricate carvings.

Interior view of a museum gallery showcasing large replicas of ancient Roman columns, including Trajan's Column, surrounded by other monumental sculptures under a skylit ceiling.

Glass Gallery

Up on Level 3 in a corner of the museum that was virtually empty when I last visited is the astounding Glass Gallery. Here, you’ll trace the development of design and technology in glassmaking over 3,500 years.

The museum’s glass collection is reputed to be one of the world’s most comprehensive.

I’m always intrigued by glass. How did people figure out that sand heated up could turn transparent? The variety and beauty of the hundreds and hundreds of objects on display is truly remarkable. I could have stayed there for hours.

A display of slender, artistic glass vessels in shades of blue, turquoise, and brown with elongated, curving necks. These pieces are delicately shaped, highlighting the elegance of glassblowing techniques.

Jewelry Gallery

I’m feeling overwhelmed after looking at some many amazing objects, but I can’t resist a walk through the narrow, dimly lit and quite crowded collection reputed to be among the finest in the world.

More than 3,000 pieces tell the story of western jewelry from ancient times to the present day.

Case after case contain pieces ranging from tiaras, brooches, and earrings to stunning necklaces, bracelets, and rings.

All around you, people can be heard oohing and aahing, and no wonder! The ingenuity and skill that was required to make such superb objects is unfathomable.

Close-up of two golden snake-shaped bracelets, intricately detailed with scales, displayed on a dark surface. The craftsmanship emphasizes the serpent motif with coiled designs and lifelike texture.

Completing Your Visit

Your visit will probably take you three to four hours. But don’t spend all that time touring the exhibits! Here are some ideas for pacing yourself.

Taking a Break at the Café

A good strategy is to take a break to enjoy something to eat at the V&A café. Not only is the food tasty, but you’ll also benefit from getting off your feet to further study the guidebook and map.

The café can get crowded, so time your visit either before or after the lunch rush.

One good strategy to avoid crowds is to arrive at the museum when it opens at 10 am, tour a few galleries, and then enjoy an early lunch in the café before tackling some more.

Checking Out the Gift Shop

I do love a good gift shop, and the one at the V&A is first-rate. You’ll find relatively affordable textiles, jewelry, books, fashion items, gift items, cool stuff for kids, and much more.

I bought some lovely tea towels that will be for display only in my kitchen. They are far too nice to use!

Studying at the Victoria and Albert Museum

The V&A is a world-class research center. In addition to displaying over 60,000 objects in the Museum, the museum also maintains a number of study rooms, both on and off-site. Here, you can view over two million objects from the Reference Collections and conduct private research.

When I was researching my novel The Muse of Fire, set in early 19th century London, I booked time at one of the study centers to view original prints of cartoons popular at the time.

In the hushed atmosphere of the offsite study room, I received the box of prints from an attendant who looked straight out of a Dickens novel, and spent several happy hours making notes and taking pictures.

If you have a research project in mind, you may well find useful resources at the V&A. Check the website for more information. Note that you must book well in advance of your visit.

Book cover for "The Muse of Fire" by Carol M. Cram. It features a woman in a vintage brown dress standing against a fiery orange background, exuding a dramatic and historical ambiance. The tagline reads "by the author of The Towers of Tuscany."

Practical Information

The Victoria and Albert Museum is open seven days a week from 10:00 am to 17:45, except for Fridays when it is open until 22:00. Admission is free. Check the website for more information.

Taking a Tour

On one visit to the V&A, I opted to take a guided tour. Good call! The two-hour tour showed me all sorts of amazing objects I may have missed if touring on my own. You can take a free tour provided by the museum staff or an outside tour.

Here is a tour option from GetYourGuide:

Other Awesome Museums in London

Of course, top of the list is the British Museum, in which you’ll experience objects from cultures all across the globe over two million years. Entry is free, but book your entry ticket in advance. The closest tube stations are Tottenham Court Road, Holborn, and Russell Square.

For art, you can’t beat the Tate Britain, the Tate Modern, the National Gallery of Britain (my favorite), the National Portrait Gallery, and the Courtauld Gallery.

The Wallace Collection is small but eclectic and worth a visit. And while you’re in South Kensington, check out the Design Museum, which has become one of my new favorite places in London.

Staying in London

London is not an inexpensive city, but over the years, I’ve discovered some excellent places to stay that, while not bargain basement, are good value and very centrally located.

On my latest trip to London, I stayed at the Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel. Located right across the street from Victoria Station, the Park Plaza Victoria (6 on the map at the beginning of this post) is a remarkably good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.

My room for two was spacious and even had a view over London.

A cloudy cityscape of London, featuring modern high-rise buildings in the distance and a mix of urban architecture in the foreground, with rooftops and chimneys adding character to the scene. — View from my room at the Park Plaza Victoria Hotel in London

The Wilde ApartHotel (7) just off the Strand is also a wonderful choice. I loved its very central location within walking distance of Trafalgar Square and most of the West End theaters.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Victoria and Albert Museum in London? What were your favorite exhibits? Share your experiences and recommendations in the Comments below.

Here are links to posts about three of my favorite London galleries:

Explore Greek Cuisine in a Savor Nafplio Cooking Class

Activities, Arts & Culture, Destinations, Greece Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:47 pm

Have your ever wanted to learn the secrets of Greek cooking? If so, then consider adding a cooking class to your Greek travel itinerary.

When you travel in Greece, you’ll find out very quickly that Greek food is drop-dead amazing and consistently tastier than any food I’ve eaten anywhere.

Sure, I’ve had great meals in France, Italy, Spain, and even North America, but Greece wins hands down when it comes to consistency, taste, and freshness.

A collage of four dishes from a cooking class in Nafplio, including a salad, zucchini roll, lamb with potatoes, and orange pie with ice cream, with a red background and text "Cooking Class in Nafplio."

To learn why Greek food is so great–and more importantly, how to prepare it myself, my daughter Julia and I decide take a cooking class at Savor Nafplio Cooking while staying in lovely little Nafplio.

In the three-hour class, we learn how to prepare Greek dishes and then enjoy a five-course meal complete with wine pairings.

Arrival at Savor Nafplio Cooking Class

We arrive at 5 pm to discover that we are the only two participants. Chef Kostas is a wonderful host and teacher. He keeps us enthralled and engaged throughout the class.

I’ve taken several cooking classes while traveling in Europe, and the class at Savor Nafplio Cooking ranks as one of the best.

Chef Kostas starts the evening by sharing the menu and telling us what to expect. We then dive right into work.

Main Course: Lamb Bogana

The main course of the four-course meal is lamb and potatoes. Since both must cook for at least two hours, we start by preparing the lamb followed by the potatoes. Kostas shows me how to cut slits in the lamb and insert small slivers of garlic, along with sprinklings of salt and pepper. Meanwhile, Julia is put to work making the paste to rub over the lamb.

I also peel potatoes to layer under the lamb. While we work, Kostas provides us with a wealth of useful tips and information about what we are doing—and why.

Appetizer: Beef-Stuffed Zucchini

Once the lamb and potatoes are in the oven, we set to work making the beef-stuffed zucchini. Julia and I learn how to core a zucchini (harder than it looks!), and then we prepare the meat filling. We mix fesh herbs, an egg, plenty of olive oil, and green onions with ground beef and then stuff the mixture into the hollowed-out zucchinis.

Kostas nestles three stuffed zucchinis into a pan half-filled with water. Later, we’ll smother them in a delectable egg and lemon sauce.

Tomato Salad with Cucumber Soup

Kostas teaches us how to prepare cucumbers for pureeing into a refreshing green soup. He uses small cucumbers which he says are less bitter. To ensure the soup is a pleasing color of green, but not too bitter, he instructs me to peel the cucumber in stripes. Cool tip.

Later, he serves the cucumber soup under a mound of cut up Greek salad fixings–tomatoes, onions, olives, capers and some crunchy bread bits all topped with fresh feta cheese. Delicious!

Orange Pie

Traditional Greek orange pie is what I’d call cake—a light, orange-flavored sponge soaked in an orange syrup. Kostas demonstrates how to prepare and measure the many ingredients required for the pie.

One of my jobs is to cut a roll of filo pastry into thin ribbons and then mix them with eggs and fresh orange juice. The filo is a substitute for flour. Its texture will give the pie a lighter texture than it would if made with flour. Interesting idea!

Dining at Savor Nafplio

With all the food prepared, the dining and wine tasting begins. Kostas brings out a small loaf of warm sourdough bread for us to dip in local olive oil flavored with local sea salt. The bread is so good that I eat too much of it and then later have trouble finishing all my dinner.

Kostas pairs five wines with the various courses—from a light white to an after-dinner dessert wine. Kostas explains each wine—its origins in Greece and what to expect while tasting. I thoroughly enjoy tasting the wine and sampling the dinner courses.

Here are pictures of the meal we enjoyed at Savor Nafplio Cooking.

A bottle of Zacharias Sklava white wine with a yellow cap and white label on a wooden table, with kitchen utensils and containers in the background. — One of the five local white wines we sampled

A plate of braised lamb with roasted potatoes, drizzled with a yellow sauce, alongside cutlery and a glass of wine on a wooden table. — One of the five local white wines we sampled

Booking a Class at Savor Nafplio Cooking

Kostas varies the menu depending on the preferences of the guests. We’d specified no fish or shellfish so they weren’t on the menu. He also looks at what’s fresh in the local market and consults his own mood. The menu we enjoyed may not be the menu a guest would enjoy on another night. I am, however, confident that whatever the menu, the cooking experience will be first-rate.

A smiling man in a black chef's jacket labeled "Savor" stands next to a woman in a patterned sleeveless top, both posing in front of a wooden world map on the wall. — Carol Cram with Chef Kostas at Savor Nafplio Cooking Class

If you’re visiting Nafplio, I recommend finding three hours in your schedule to take a cooking class and enjoy a meal and wine pairings at Savor Nafplio Cooking. You get excellent value for the money and learn new cooking tips.

Cooking Classes in Greece

Here are some GetYourGuide cooking classes available in Greece:

Conclusion

Have you taken a cooking class while traveling? Share your recommendations in the Comments below. Here are more posts about cooking classes I’ve taken when traveling.

Make the Roman Baths in Bath a Sightseeing Priority

Arts & Culture, Destinations, England, Museums Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:18 pm

The Roman Baths in Bath, England, is the city’s foremost must-see attraction.

If you only have time to visit one historic site in the city of Bath, make it the Roman Baths.

It’s small enough to enjoy in about an hour, includes an excellent audio guide, and is enlivened by numerous projections of Roman-clad people going about their bathing business.

I’ve visited the Roman baths three times over the past ten years and each time, I discover something new.

Pinterest graphic with the text "Roman Baths" over a picture of the Roman baths in Bath, England, taken from the terrace of the Roman Baths Museum

Roman Baths at a Glance

Enjoy views of Bath Abbey from the museum terrace
Discover the ancient history of the sacred spring
Explore fascinating displays and costumed recreations that bring ancient Aquae Sulis to life
Consider a guided tour to get the most out of your visit
Stay at the Harington’s Boutique Hotel in the center of Bath

Location of the Roman Baths

The Roman Baths are located next to the Pump Room in the center of Bath. It’s a short walk from the train station.

When you arrive, you may find quite a crowd gathered and signs indicating which time slot is currently being accommodated.

If you didn’t get tickets in advance, ask the person marshaling the crowd if you can still get in. I did this on a recent visit and the attendant promptly stood aside and motioned for me to walk right in, bypassing the long line. I didn’t stop to question my good fortune.

That said, I wouldn’t count on getting in without buying your ticket in advance. You can purchase tickets online from the official website or choose a tour.

Audio Guide

The price includes an audio guide with two tracks in twelve languages. The regular track provides the usual historical context in short and interesting installments.

The children’s track includes first-person accounts by the many characters that wander across screens projected throughout the museum. I alternate between the adult and children’s tracks. Both are excellent.

Touring the Baths

The clearly signposted route starts on the terrace, which consists of a walkway surrounding the baths.

This structure and the statues of various Roman bigwigs are Victorian additions that were built atop the Roman ruins to house the museum when it opened in the late 19^th century.

The terrace is a delightful space surrounded by warm Bath stone and with the façade of Bath Abbey looming in the background. Below are the deep green waters of the main pool. Bath has been a mecca for health-seekers for two millennia.

Overhead view of the main pool at the Roman Baths Museum — View of the main pool from the top walkway

View of Bath Abbey from the top walkway at thhe Roman Baths Museum — View of Bath Abbey from the top walkway

Hot Springs History

While touring the museum, you’ll learn that Bath is the only place in the entire country that has hot springs—three of them. No wonder people have been coming here for millennia.

Before the Romans arrived, the local Dobunni tribe worshipped the goddess Sulis at the sacred spring. In those days, the heated natural spring was a bubbling, steaming pool surrounded by a thick swamp.

When the Romans arrived, they incorporated worship of Sulis into their own pantheon and so transformed her into Sulis Minerva and called the settlement Aquae Sulis.

The Romans were generally “equal opportunity” when it came to accommodating other religions, so long as the people practicing them rendered unto Caesar the necessary taxes.

In Roman Britain, the legionnaires who first conquered the area must have been very happy to have found a place where they could soak their weary bones in warm water in the midst of a Great Britain winter.

In the 17^th and 18^th centuries, Bath developed into one of the world’s most fashionable watering holes. Everyone who was anyone came here to take the waters. Jane Austen herself bathed here.

Museum Exhibits

The tour leads back indoors and descends through several rooms full of artfully displayed exhibits about the Romans.

Enlivening the experience are screens projecting a selection of Roman bathers who would have frequented the baths back in the day. It’s a clever way to bring history to life and makes you feel like you’re witnessing it firsthand.

Projection of Roman characters at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England

You can listen to a blacksmith on the audio guide while watching a screen showing him hard at work making armor.

Projection of a Roman blacksmith at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England — Projection of a Roman blacksmith

The Baths

The exhibits give way to a series of walkways leading across the archaeological remains of the various rooms in the Roman Baths.

The Romans took their health seriously. There are rooms for getting massaged and plucked (apparently, the Romans weren’t keen on body hair), rooms for bathing in various water temperatures, and even a gymnasium where Romans got good and sweaty in humid air that still smells of sulfur.

Projection of Romans getting prepared to bathe at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England — Projection of Roman woman preparing to bathe

The ruins themselves don’t photograph particularly well. Here’s one room showing the bricks that would have been under the floor to supply the heating.

The audio commentary provides details about the impressive heating and cooling mechanisms. The Romans certainly knew how to engineer.

Ruins of the heating system at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England — Ruins of the heating system

Minerva Sulis

One of the most striking artifacts on display is the gilt bronze head of the goddess Sulis Minerva. It’s a rare and beautiful example of ancient craftsmanship.

Outside next to the large pool sits a Roman-clad guide. She acknowledges me with a regal nod when I take her picture. I’m unsure if she’s meant to speak or if her job is to sit by the pool all day and have her picture taken.

A costumed guide at the Roman Baths Museum in Bath, England — A Roman watches the crowds go by

Bath Tours

Bath is unique in that it has two inscriptions as a UNESCO World Heritage site. In the 1980s, the town was inscribed for its Hot Springs, Roman archaeology, Georgian buildings and natural landscape setting.

And then just a few years ago in 2021, it was awarded a second inscription as one of the Great Spa Towns of Europe.

The best way to explore Bath is through a walking tour. GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides.

Tours and Tickets

If you’re a Bridgerton fan, you may find this tour fun:

Conclusion

Ruins can be challenging to enjoy because they are, well, ruins. The Roman Baths manages to bring the stony vestiges of a once great Roman hangout to life with its thoughtful use of projections and audio commentary.

As you exit the museum, you can enjoy a cupful of the medicinal waters to give you energy for more Bath sightseeing.

The Roman Baths are open from 9 am to 10 pm from July 20 to August 31, and from 9 am to 6 pm from September 1 to December 31. Buy your tickets online from the museum’s website.

Have you visited the Roman Baths? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

Here are posts about other Interesting Museums:

Enjoying the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England

Arts & Culture, Destinations, England, Europe, Museums Artsy Traveler 2 Comments

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:16 pm

This must-see museum of thoughtfully curated exhibits showcases the history of life in rural England.

Eight galleries and an impressive open storage area present artifacts and commentary related to the traditions and challenges related to food production in the English countryside.

I spent a wonderful afternoon at this museum in Reading with associate director Isabel Hughes, who graciously answered my many questions about the museum and then took me on a guided tour.

Collage with two images: the top shows a scenic canal lined with red brick buildings, blooming flower baskets, and a bright blue sky. The bottom features the Museum of English Rural Life sign at the University of Reading, with a red-brick building and leafy surroundings in the background. Overlayed text reads 'Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England' and 'artsytraveler.com' in white on a magenta banner.

This place is a real Artsy Traveler find! And fair warning: this is a LONG post because there is just so much to write about.

Some Background

I lived in Reading for three years a few decades ago. During that time, I attended the University of Reading where I earned my BA in English Language and Literature.

I hadn’t returned to Reading since I graduated, so on a recent trip to England from my home near Vancouver, BC, I decided to make Reading my first stop after flying to Heathrow from Vancouver.

I wasn’t sure what I planned to do during my one afternoon in Reading. I googled museums and discovered the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) run by my alma mater, the University of Reading.

I had never heard of MERL, although Isabel told me the museum was established in 1951 and did indeed exist when I attended the university in the 1970s.

In 2004, the museum moved to its spacious new digs in the former St. Andrew’s Hall, one of the student residences that was around during my time at the university.

Since its expansion, MERL has established itself as one of the United Kingdom’s premier destinations at which to learn about English rural life.

Why I Wanted to Visit the Museum of English Rural Life

I decided to visit MERL for two reasons.

First, it’s a niche museum and as such is a perfect candidate for featuring on Artsy Traveler.

Although I often write about blockbuster museums such as the Rijksmuseum, National Gallery of London, and the Uffizi, my heart beats particularly fast when I discover an off-the-beaten-track museum that my readers may not know about, and that fits with my interests.

The second reason I wanted to visit is because one of my novels titled Hidden Voices is partially set in Devon in the 1880s.

Eliza, my main character, must move with her family from a bucolic rural life in Devon to the “dark, satanic mills” of northern England where most of the novel takes place. In the scenes set in Devon, I wanted to sprinkle in a few more details about rural life that I hoped to find at MERL.

And I wasn’t disappointed! This extensive museum dedicated to farming practices and rural life is a hidden gem—and admission is free or by donation.

Arrival at the Museum of English Rural Life

A few hours prior to visiting MERL, I land at Heathrow after a smooth eight-hour flight from Vancouver. Twenty minutes after deplaning, I’m standing, phone in hand, searching for my Uber.

Most of that time has been taken up with long, long walks through long, long corridors, many rides up and down long escalators and a two-minute wait to go through the electronic customs kiosk.

Since my flight has arrived an hour early, I take the Uber to my hotel before heading to the museum. I’m staying at the Hotel Malmaison (#1 on the map) in downtown Reading, which I highly recommend. After freshening up, I decide to walk the 22 minutes from the hotel to MERL (#2). Here’s a map of Reading:

Map created using Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

Along the way, I expect to take a few jaunts down memory lane, but alas, it isn’t to be. Nothing looks the same as I remember from the 1970s—not even close. The Reading skyline bristles with new buildings designed by architects who likely hadn’t been born when I was studying at the university.

When I lived in Reading, there was hardly anywhere to get coffee, much less enjoy a meal. We existed on copious amounts of strong tea; coffee bars were unheard of. And as for eating out, it just wasn’t done, or at least very rarely. Now, every other establishment in Reading serves food, or so it seems as I stroll past the cafes and restaurants in the downtown area.

Along the way, I cross over the Kennet-Avon canal which looks serene and well-groomed in the late August sunshine.

Kennet and Avon Canal in Reading — Kennet-Avon canal in Reading

When I arrive at MERL, associate director Isabel Hughes meets me and, over a very welcome cup of tea, we start our chat.

The Interview

Here’s a summary of my interview with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) at the University of Reading in England.

Carol

What is the purpose of the Museum of English Rural Life?

Isabel

The purpose of the museum is to present exhibits and objects that help visitors understand the human side of English rural life: the production of food, farming practices since the 19^th century, and the changing countryside. We like to present the human side of rural life and really celebrate working people since the vast majority of people in the 19^th century and into the 20^th century either worked on the land or in mills, or were servants.

Farming practices began to change in the late 19^th century because of the agricultural depression caused by wheat production in Canada.

Carol

That’s very interesting because in my novel Mill Song, my main character’s family moves from Devon because there is no more farm labor work for the men. I thought it was because of mechanization that jobs became scarce, but there was also an agricultural depression. It’s interesting that Canada was to blame! A lot of people, including many of my ancestors, emigrated from a rural life in the West Country to Canada during the 19^th century.

Isabel

MERL was started by the Agriculture Department at the University of Reading in 1951. World War II had ended and there was a push to make agriculture more self-sufficient and productive with the use of insecticides and the development of large farms. But as a result, traditional farming practices were being lost.

The founders of the museum realized this and decided to collect items such as old wagons and hand tools. They went to agricultural shows and talked to farmers, and acquired examples of traditional crafts such as basketry, woodworking, and bodging (making things such as brooms and chairs out of unseasoned green wood).

In 2004, the museum moved to its present location in the former St. Andrew’s Hall of residence, helped in part by funding from Alfred Palmer, a well-known Reading businessperson.

Carol

I well remember taking my exams at Reading University in the Palmer Building! He was quite the benefactor.

What is your number one recommendation for touring the museum?

Isabel

We like people to have a wander and see it all. The huge collection of wagons is particularly impressive. We have wagons from almost every county in England.

An old wagon in the Museum of English Rural Life — One of the many wagons at MERL, this one from Dorset

People can explore the eight galleries and then go upstairs to view our open storage of the thousands of items the museum has collected over the years.

Attached to each artifact is a luggage label; these were the original labels affixed when the artifact was acquired by the museum.

A large collection of farm implements in the open storage area of the museum

Another thing that we want people to notice is the textile wall hanging created for the Countryside Pavilion at the Festival of Britain in 1951. It was one of several we acquired. The one on display depicts Cheshire and cheese production.

An enormous wall hanging featuring cheshire and cheese production at the Museum of English Rural Life — An enormous wall hanging featuring Cheshire and cheese production

Carol

What is your favorite exhibit and why?

Isabel

I think my favorite is a pitchfork that was grown in a hedgerow. A branch growing off the shrub was nurtured until it was just the right size and shape for a pitchfork.

It’s made by nature but guided by hand.

A pitchfork grown in a hedgerow at the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England. — Isabel’s favorite, a pitchfork grown from a hedgerow

Carol

What are some of the hidden gems that visitors should check out at MERL?

Isabel

The display of friendly society pole heads is intriguing. A friendly society was a cooperative that workers bought into. If they had a rough time, then the cooperative could help to support them. The pole heads were elaborately carved and resembled pub signs. They were carried in processions such as church parades.

A collection of silver pole heads that resemble English pub signs — Some of the silver pole heads in the MERL collection

Carol

Is this place the only rural museum in England?

Isabel

It is one of the earliest museums but not the only one. There is a rural museum network that includes small community museums. Other large museums like MERL are the National Museum of Rural Life in Scotland and the St. Fagan’s National Museum of History in Wales. There is also the Weald and Downland Living Museum near Chichester, which is where Repair Shop is filmed. We like to think of MERL as the national rural museum for England, but it is not, officially.

Carol

What is the most popular gift shop item?

Isabel

We’ve had images from the wall hangings turned into merchandise such as mugs, pencil cases, notebooks, tea towels and bags. We also have tea towels depicting engineering drawings of farm machinery, which are very popular with enthusiasts who are interested in recreating rural farm machinery.

Carol

Are any new exhibits planned?

Isabel

We have quite a few artifacts related to the Roma people that are often not labeled as such. These include photographs of people working the land, and a gypsy wagon. We are starting to re-label these artifacts to feature the history of the Roma people in the English countryside.

A gypsy wagon at the Museum of English Rural Life — A gypsy wagon

Carol

Anything else you’d like to share?

Isabel

At MERL, we have an extensive library and archives containing a wealth of stories. Of particular note is our archive of letters that children evacuees during World War II sent to their parents when they were evacuated from the cities to the countryside. Reading was one of the hubs for evacuee children. Some of the letters were positive, depicting the experience as active and fun, while others were from children who were upset and even mistreated.

The labels affixed to the children when they were put on the train to go into the countryside inspired Michael Bond to write the Paddington Bear books in the 1950s.

A group of children being evacuated from the city during World War II

Touring the Museum Galleries

After our chat, Isabel takes me around the museum. Seeing it after talking with her really brings it to life. Throughout the galleries are interactive activities for children. MERL has an active school program and welcomes over 50,000 visitors a year, likely a good proportion of them families.

I love the sheep clad in an Aran sweater in the first main gallery.

A large stuffed sheep wearing an Aran sweater greets visitors to the first large gallery

The size of MERL surprises me. The galleries go on forever, each one more chock-a-block with artifacts than the last. You can spend a lot of time here!

One of the very large galleries at the Museum of English Rural Life

Land Girls

I’m particularly taken by the collection of objects and photographs related to the Land Girls—young women who worked on the farms during World War II. Here are photographs of several Land Girls and the uniform they wore.

Photograph of the uniform worn by Land Girls, young women who worked the farms during WW II — Land Girls uniform in World War II

The Land Girls experience inspired Land Girls, a British TV series available on Netflix.

Traps

A sobering exhibit features various traps—both for animals and people. The two human traps are particularly horrifying. Anyone caught in one would likely die a very slow and painful death. These traps were placed to prevent poaching.

We spend almost an hour roaming through the galleries and viewing the open storage collections on the first floor. I’m very impressed with both the size and the quality of the exhibits and am reminded how, in another life, I would have loved to have been a museum curator.

But being a novelist and travel blogger is also good—and MERL ticks the boxes on both fronts. I’m finding plenty of inspiration for the country scenes in Mill Song. The open storage collection of smocks, many beautifully embellished with traditional smocking, reminds me of what some of my characters may have worn. I can also imagine my main character wearing a bonnet, such as the ones displayed, while she helped with the harvest.

Several smocks hanging in open storage at the Museum of Rural Life — These smocks were likely worn for special occasions

A collection of bonnets worn by women on farms in the 19th century — Bonnets in open storage

New Inspiration

To my delight, MERL sparks inspiration for a new novel based around the story of two evacuees in World War II. After my meeting with Isabel, I scribble several pages of notes about possible characters and plots. It looks like I’m going to have to return to MERL to comb through their extensive archive of letters written by evacuees during World War II.

I can only imagine what treasures await.

As the museum gets set to close, Isabel and I pose for a photo, I purchase a notebook that shows a detail from the Cheshire wall hanging, and say my good-byes.

Carol Cram and Isabel Hughes, co-director of the Museum of English Rural Life — Carol Cram with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life

I walk back to my hotel, enjoy an excellent dinner, and then, finally, turn the lights out at 9. My first day in the UK has been a success.

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in southern England. Most depart from London.

Conclusion

The Museum of English Rural Life is a specialty museum with broad appeal. Touring a museum dedicated to how food was produced back in the day reminds us of our rural roots–and everyone eats food! No matter where you come from, chances are good that at least a few of your ancestors had something to do with agriculture.

The opening times of Museum of English Rural Life are from 10am to 5pm daily and entrance is free. It is located at 6 Redlands Road in Reading, Berkshire. The museum’s extensive website showcases its many exhibits.

Have you visited this museum or another like it? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

Other Specialty Museums on Artsy Traveler

Top Ten Ways to Joyously Experience Traveling in Europe

Arts & Culture, Destinations, Europe, Travel Smart Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 18th, 2025 at 01:17 am

In the aftermath of the pandemic, everyone and their cousin who wants to travel and can travel is heading for Europe. Recently, Italy was named the number one tourist destination in the world, with France close behind. Many destinations are full to bursting with visitors, which means sold-out accommodations, packed beaches, and museums filled to the rafters.

Some communities, such as Barcelona and Malaga in Spain, and Santorini in Greece, have even launched campaigns to limit the number of tourists permitted to invade their hometowns at any one time.

Pinterest graphic with the text top ten ways to joyously experience traveling in Europe over a photograph of a signpost with european countries pointing in different directions such as france, germany, italy, etc.

Introduction

I’ve experienced my share of crowds all flocking to experience the same iconic sites—the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, the Uffizi in Florence, the Colosseum in Rome, the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Thousands surge into spaces meant for hundreds, each holding aloft a smartphone to capture the moment.

The joys of travel—discovering new places, meeting new people, learning new things, enjoying great art—quickly dwindle in the face of relentless crowds, inflated prices, and grumpy locals.

Interacting with Locals

When you travel to a new place, consider looking for opportunities to interact with locals instead of lining up for the big-ticket sites. Sample local food, check out off-the-beaten path museums and galleries, meet local artists and artisans, go to local concerts, ride public transit, and wander around back streets where local people live.

You can do all these things in even the most heavily-touristed destinations if you’re willing to zig away from the crowds rather than zag towards them. Doing so may require you to skip the most famous—and crowded—sites. But the rewards more than make up for any lingering feelings of FOMO (Fear of Missing Out).

Here are my top ten ways to joyously enjoy your European travels.

1. Check Restaurant Reviews

Chances are you’re traveling with a smartphone. Use it to find restaurants that fellow travelers and especially locals have rated highly. Ever since I started checking reviews and purposely choosing restaurants instead of wandering the streets in hopes of finding a place, I’ve enjoyed numerous awesome dining experiences.

In fact, I can safely say that almost every highly rated restaurant I’ve eaten at in Europe in the last few years was a winner.

A Parisian café is a great place to people watch while enjoying a trip to Europe

Search Criteria

I search for restaurants that have at least a 4.5-star average review and then read what people say about the quality of the food and the service. If most of the best reviews are in the local language, that’s a plus because it means the restaurant is well frequented by locals.

Make Reservations

Once I’ve made my choice, I visit the restaurant’s website and call to reserve a table or use the online booking system if it’s available. I’ve found in recent years that reservations are essential in many popular places. Without one, you may well be wandering for quite some time before finding a well-reviewed restaurant with available tables.

Note that during busy periods, you may have better luck choosing a reservation time when the restaurant opens (usually 7 or 8 pm, depending on the location). Europeans tend to eat dinner later than North Americans. If you make a reservation for 7 pm, you may well have the restaurant to yourself.

A good rule of thumb in any big European city is to steer clear of restaurants that are full of tour groups reading multi-lingual plasticated menus in high-rent locations such as the Piazza Navona in Rome.

Walk a few blocks away from the busy areas to quiet side streets and you’ll find favorite local restaurants with superb food.

Ask a Local for Recommendations

Another good strategy is to ask your hotel to recommend a local restaurant and then make a reservation for you. Every time we’ve gone to a restaurant recommended by our hotel, we’ve had a great meal.

For a giggle, check out what happened to me when I did not follow my own advice in Bella Roma Rip-off, one of the pieces in Pastel & Pen: Two Ways of Seeing, a collaboration of my writing with Gregg Simpson’s artwork. Gregg is an artist and my husband and usual travel companion.

2. Seek Out Lesser-Known Museums

Your sightseeing time is precious. Instead of spending it waiting in long lines, seek out museums and other sites that may be less well known but are just as interesting (sometimes more so) and considerably less crowded. These days, you’ll stand in line to tour the big sites even if you book ahead. On a recent trip to Pompeii, I lined up for forty minutes to get my skip-the-line ticket that I’d purchased online days earlier, and then lined up for another twenty minutes in the skip-the-line line to get into Pompeii.

Instead of sweating in the queue outside the Louvre in Paris, visit the lovely Rodin Museum.

In Amsterdam, skip the Van Gogh Museum (or go very early in the day) and visit the charming and informative Rembrandt Huis.

In Rome, forget the Vatican Museum and head instead to the marvelous Etruscan Museum that houses an incredible collection of treasures. Both times I’ve visited, the museum was virtually empty, which is in no way a reflection on the quality of the displays. The museum just happens to be so far off the beaten track of Rome’s iconic sites that few tourists find it.

The Etruscan Museum in Rome is almost never crowded, a great bet for travelers looking to avoid crowds — The Etruscan Museum is one of Rome’s most interesting museums

Lesser-Known Museums to Visit

Here are posts about some of my favorite lesser-known and fabulous museums:

3. Go to Art Openings

If you’ve checked out other posts on Artsy Traveler, you’ll know that a lot of my European travel centers around my husband’s art exhibitions. Most exhibitions include an opening (a vernissage in France; an inaugurazione in Italy). These events often include food and wine, and a short talk by the artist and the curator. They are also free to anyone who wants to drop in.

We’ve frequently met fellow travelers at Gregg’s openings, in addition to local art lovers, and have attended the openings of exhibitions by other artists—some we knew, some we didn’t. We always have a memorable time!

Art openings in Europe are usually free and open to everyone — Art openings at private galleries in Europe are usually free and open to everyone

Finding Art Openings

To find art openings, check online listings. Also, stroll areas that have a lot of art galleries, such as the Left Bank and Marais districts in Paris. You’ll have the most luck finding an opening in the early evening on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

If you pass an art gallery hosting an opening, don’t be shy! Walk in and say hello, check out some artwork, and maybe even have a glass of wine and an appetizer. You’re bound to meet a few locals who speak English, or you can practice your language skills.

4. Attend Local Concerts and Events

One of my favorite things to do when traveling in Europe is going to classical music concerts. Sometimes, I book tickets ahead of time to see a particular concert, but at other times, I look for posters and flyers.

On a recent trip to Siena, I picked up a flyer in our hotel advertising an intimate concert with a singer and pianist held in a local church. It was magical!

While in Rome, we saw a poster advertising concerts at the stylish Auditorium Parco della Musica well off the tourist beat north of the city. We bought tickets, and enjoyed two fantastic concerts with other music lovers, the vast majority of whom were locals.

Classical music concert venue in Europe — Classical music concerts are top quality and reasonably priced

Tourist Concerts

I find that attending concerts in Europe really enhances my appreciation of the local culture. Even if the concert is advertised for tourists—such as a flamenco performance in Seville—it’s going to be good.

Trust me on this. We’ve enjoyed fado in Lisbon, flamenco in Spain, medieval music in southern France, opera in Paris, folk music in Bacharach on the Rhine, Vivaldi in Venice, Stravinsky in Berlin, Chopin in Leipzig, Shostakovich in Hamburg…I could go on and on.

And best of all, prices for classical music concerts in some of the world’s best concert venues are shockingly reasonable compared to what we pay to attend a concert in Canada.

Fado performers in Porto, Portugal — Local performances are generally authentic and well worth the price

5. Ride Public Transit

Few travel experiences bring you closer to locals than riding busses, trains, and metros. These days, you can pay for most transit options with a tap of your credit card. I love hopping on a bus and following my progress on Google Maps, so I know exactly where to get off.

I also enjoy people-watching on public transit. On very crowded busses and metros, just be sure to keep a good grip on your valuables. While violent crime in Europe is rare, pickpockets do flourish in crowded cities.

A bus in Europe, a great way to travel local — Take a city bus in Europe and enjoy great people watching

A Cautionary Tale

A word of caution about bus travel. If you happen to have a paper ticket, ALWAYS remember to validate it when you get on the bus. I learned this lesson the hard way. On a recent stay in Turin, I got on the bus, paper ticket in hand, and noticed that no one else was validating their tickets at the machine. I wrongly presumed that validation wasn’t required. Maybe it was a special holiday?

Ten minutes later, an inspector got on the bus and started checking tickets. Everyone on the bus held up their smartphones. As tourists, we had only the paper tickets we’d purchased from the local tobacconist. When the inspector came to Gregg and me and tried to scan our tickets—nada. My protestations of being a dumb tourist fell on deaf ears. That mistake cost us 40 euros—each.

So, just because no one else is validating their ticket doesn’t mean you shouldn’t validate your ticket!

6. Shop for Food in Local Markets

Shopping for snacks, lunches and the occasional dinner in your hotel room or apartment not only lets you experience life as a temporary local, but it also saves you money. In general, food prices are lower in Europe (although starting to rise). The quality of the fresh produce is also far superior to what is found in the average North American grocery store.

I love prowling the aisles of a European supermarket and ordering pre-made food at the in-store delis. I’ve typically found the staff to be friendly and tolerant of my attempts to at least say hello, good-bye and thank you in their language.

Outdoor Markets

Be on the lookout for open-air markets where you’ll find a dizzying array of foods along with clothing and knick-knacks. Some cities also have large indoor markets, such as the Mercado de Triana in Seville.

An outdoor market in Europe is a great place to find good, fresh food while avoiding tourist crowds — Interact with locals while browsing outdoor markets in Europe

7. Take a Cooking Class

When you take a cooking class in Europe, you’ll meet travelers from around the world and learn from a local chef. I’m a firm fan of cooking classes and take one every chance I get.

On a recent trip to Rome, I learned how to make gelato and pizza with lovely Marco: Pizza, Gelato, Suppli–Oh My! A Fantastic Cooking Class in Rome

A cooking class in Europe is a great way to learn new skills and avoid crowds — Take a cooking class and learn new skills

In a tapas class I took in Madrid, I met fellow travelers from Australia, Holland, the UK, France, and Korea.

8. Go on a Walking Tour

I’ve also become a big fan of walking tours, particularly specialty tours that cater to a specific interest. In Rome, I went on a walking tour of the old Jewish ghetto. In London, I explored the back alleys and colorful history of the Covent Garden theater district. In Stratford-upon-Avon, I joined three other people for a small walking tour with a guide pretending to be William Shakespeare.

Walking tours usually take you behind the scenes and to places where regular bus tours can’t go. The guides are often locals who are very enthusiastic about their subject and love showing off hidden gems.

A great source for walking tours is GuruWalk. All the tours listed are pay-what-you-can and run by locals. Here are some of the free walks available from GuruWalk in Paris.

9. Skip the Iconic Sites

Yes, this recommendation is blasphemy but heeding it could make the difference between reveling in a relaxing and memorable European vacation and enduring one that leaves you hot, bothered, and blistered. When you’re planning what you want to see, consider not visiting super popular sites such as the Colosseum in Rome, the ruins in Pompeii, and the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Instead, choose smaller, lesser-known museums and sites, and leave more time for wandering.

By all means, stroll past the Colosseum and view the Eiffel Tower from one of the bridges. Snap some photos and drink in the view. Then, veer off into a shady side street and enjoy an hour or tour wandering around a quiet neighborhood, sitting in a park, and enjoying a drink at an outdoor café surrounded by locals.

Carol Cram in front of the Colosseum in Rome — See the Colosseum from the outside only

Travel isn’t all about ticking off the big sites. Instead, think of travel as your opportunity to surround yourself with a kaleidoscope of interesting sights, sounds, and smells.

Slow down and savor the displays in a small museum, make time for a concert or an art opening, be on the lookout for a local festival, and just be.

10. Walk Away from the Crowds

Even in Venice, one of Europe’s busiest tourist cities, you can find solitude. Leave the busy piazzas and thoroughfares and within seconds, you’ll be wandering down narrow alleyways and crossing tiny bridges spanning sleepy canals that look like they haven’t been disturbed for centuries.

Even in crowded Venice, you can easily find quiet corners

I skirt the main tourist drags in busy towns by going left or right down the first narrow street I see. I may get a bit lost, but I’ll also find glorious solitude and the chance to commune with the past.

Siena’s Campo bustles with tourists but walk a few meters down a side street and you’re alone and surrounded by buildings that haven’t changed much in 700 years. And at night, you’ll even have the Campo all to yourself.

Carol Cram in the Campo in Siena at night — Have the Campo in Siena to yourself at night

Such opportunities for quiet encounters with history make European travel endlessly appealing.

Some of My Favorite Uncrowded European Sites

Conclusion

What are your tips for avoiding crowds in Europe? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below.

When is the Best Time to Tour Europe?

Arts & Culture, Travel Smart Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 5th, 2025 at 01:07 am

Are you trying to figure out the best time of year to tour Europe? You probably already know that summer may not be the optimal time to tour some European countries, but not necessarily all.

How do you plan your trip to get maximum bang for your euro while also avoiding crowds and enjoying decent weather?

Don’t worry! You’re not the first person to ask this question. I ponder it myself when planning my trips to Europe. And the answer depends on three factors:

Crowds
Activities
Weather

Split image featuring a crowded sunny beach and a snowy mountain landscape, with a "Best Time to Tour Europe" banner from ArtsyTraveler.com.

I do consider two other factors–the dates of writers’ conferences and retreats I may want to attend, and the dates when my husband, artist Gregg Simpson, has an art exhibition scheduled.

Introduction

I’ve visited Europe in all four seasons, and each has its pros and cons. Yes, even summer can be a great choice, depending on where you’re going.

Read on for my recommendations for when and where to tour Europe in each of the four seasons, starting with summer.

Touring Europe: Is Summer Best?

I think back to summer vacations when I was a child. My parents packed my big brother and me into a hot car (no air con in those days) and drove us to a National Park or a beach or to visit relatives. Summer vacations were a combination of fun and sunburn.

Now that I’m a grown-up, I think about summer a bit differently. I no longer have children in school and my work commitments are flexible. I can stay home in the summer and avoid excessive heat and crowds, or I can choose destinations that give me a comfortable summer holiday experience.

Aerial view of a long, golden beach in Portugal, crowded with colorful umbrellas and sunbathers, with turquoise ocean waves. — Tour Europe in the summer to experience plenty of awesome beach time

Touring Europe in the Summer

Some European countries are best visited in the summer—and some are not. Here are my recommendations.

Countries to Avoid in Summer

If possible, avoid summer travel to destinations such as southern Portugal, southern Spain, southern Italy, and Greece. Thanks to climate change, summers are getting hotter and tourist spots are paying the price.

Attractions such as the Acropolis in Greece are often closed in the afternoons because of excessive heat, and trust me, you really don’t want to tour Rome when the temperatures soar above 38 C (100 F).

Countries to Consider in Summer

Southern France, northern Italy, northern Spain, and northern Portugal can all experience hot summer weather, but don’t rule them out as summertime destinations.

I’ve visited southern France in June and ended up gasping for air during a canicule when temperatures hit 45 C. With air conditioning still not that common, I spent a lot of time floating in a pool when I wasn’t sitting indoors next to a tray of ice in front of a fan.

But I’ve also stayed for several weeks in southern France during July and August and enjoyed beautiful weather. Yes, it was warm, but not excessively so, and finding reasonably priced accommodations with pools was pretty easy.

And of course, there are beaches.

So don’t rule out visiting the south of France in summer, although you will find it crowded, particularly in August.

Northern Italy is generally comfortable in the summer, and there are all those beautiful lakes and mountains to explore.

I’ve also visited northern Spain and northern Portugal in summer and enjoyed both, even experiencing quite a bit of rain in green and pleasant Galicia in northwest Spain.

Stunning alpine scenery with jagged Dolomite mountains reflected in a calm, still lake, under a clear blue sky. — Destinations such as the Dolomites in northern Italy are a summer travel choice.

Countries to Choose in Summer

You can’t go wrong visiting countries in northern Europe during the summer. Here are my recommendations.

France

Take a summer vacation in Brittany. You’ll find some crowds, but you’ll also enjoy beautiful weather and fabulous beaches along with local festivals.

Other great options in France for summer touring are Normandy and the Loire Valley.

Dramatic white chalk cliffs and arches along the Normandy coast, with blue water and green hills. — Normandy is beautiful in the summer with plenty to see and great beaches to enjoy.

Austria, Switzerland, Germany and the Low Countries

I love visiting these countries in the summer, particularly Austria and the Low Countries. Hiking in the Alps is best (and safest) during the summer months.

And as for the Netherlands, the gloomy skies you’ll find during most of the year tend to clear in summer. A visit to the spectacular Kröller-Müller Museum near Arnhem on a balmy summer afternoon is an Artsy Traveler must.

A white abstract sculpture reflecting on a pond, surrounded by lush green trees and grass. — Don’t miss the outdoor sculptures at the Kröller-Müller Museum near Arnhem if you visit the Netherlands in summer.

United Kingdom

Having traveled frequently in the UK, I can safely say that summer is the best time to visit England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales if you’re hoping for good weather. You may not actually get good weather, but your chances are higher during July, August and even early September than at any other time of year.

That said, I’ve toured southern Ireland in August and have needed to buy gloves and a hat.

Artsy Traveler Motto: Be Prepared!

I’ve also visited Scotland three times during the month of September and each time, the weather was spectacular. The only thing you can be certain about regarding summer travel in the UK is that if it’s raining in the morning, chances are the sun will come out in the afternoon.

A serene countryside landscape with a river lined by wildflowers and a row of old stone cottages in the distance. — The English countryside in late summer rarely disappoints.

A Note About Garden Tours

One compelling reason to visit the United Kingdom during the summer months is to enjoy the profusion of flowers found both in private and public gardens. I have a soft spot for a good garden tour, and in the UK, you’re spoiled for choice.

Scandinavia

Traveling in the Scandinavian countries in summer is delightful thanks to long days and relatively balmy weather. I spent time in Copenhagen during early September and found the weather a shade cool but mostly dry and perfect for sightseeing.

If you choose to go to Iceland during the summer, you’ll find a lot of fellow travelers. It’s a trade-off.

Visit Iceland in winter and you’ll have many sites to yourself in the semi-darkness. Visit Iceland in midsummer and you’ll jostle for position in front of every waterfall, but on the plus side, you’ll see waterfalls for about 20 hours a day.

Snow-covered mountains in the background and a frozen, rocky terrain in the foreground under a clear blue sky. — Tour Iceland in the summer to experience a maximum number of daylight hours.

No matter when you travel to Iceland, you’ll experience ferocious weather. I visited in February, so I expected it to be cold, but I know people who visited in June and saw almost nothing of the spectacular scenery. How tragic is that?

Summer At a Glance

Crowds: Destinations can be extremely crowded, with many popular sites sold out if you don’t purchase tickets in advance.

Activities: Lots of festivals and markets, but fewer blockbuster art shows and concerts

Weather: Unbearably hot in the south; relatively comfortable in the north

Touring Europe: How About Fall?

I think that fall is the second-best season to tour Europe (or at least most of it). And if you’re wondering, I think spring is the best season (more on touring Europe in the spring below).

Here are the pros of touring Europe in the fall (or autumn for my British friends):

Major Exhibitions

I always check what art and museum exhibitions are going to be on in the destinations I’m planning to visit. While some exhibitions run through the summer, many of the best ones start in September or October.

Concert Season

Whenever possible, I get tickets to as many classical music concerts as I can when I’m traveling in Europe. Some of the world’s best orchestras are located in cities such as Berlin, Paris, and London, with most concert seasons running from September to May.

Modern concert hall with a large orchestra preparing for a performance; multiple levels of seating and warm interior lighting. — Interior of the Elbphilharmonie concert hall in Hamburg, one of the world’s great concert halls.

Manageable Crowds

Well, more or less. Even on a cold November day, Venice was crowded, and a recent visit to the Louvre in Paris in October was a nightmare. But overall, the crowds are not nearly as large in the fall as they are in midsummer, or even spring.

Visit popular sites early in the morning and book ahead, and you should be fine.

Pleasant Weather

I’ve visited most countries in western Europe during the fall at least once and have almost always enjoyed great weather. The temperatures, particularly as you go farther south, are warm but not too hot, and rainfall is generally scarcer in fall than in spring.

Just make sure you’re equipped with a rain jacket and hat no matter where you plan to travel in the fall (or spring, for that matter).

And if you’re traveling in November, be prepared for chilly temperatures pretty much everywhere in Europe. I froze in Venice in late November, and I wouldn’t recommend venturing north of London after October.

The days get very short by the time you make it to Scotland.

Fall At a Glance

Crowds: Popular destinations are generally less crowded than in summer, although purchasing advance tickets is always a good idea.

Activities: Major exhibitions and concert seasons start, along with some festivals.

Weather: Balmy and warm in the south growing increasingly chilly as you move north, with rain common everywhere, especially in November

Touring Europe: Winter Wonderland?

Winter is, surprisingly, not a terrible time to visit Europe, although it’s my fourth choice overall. In winter, you should focus your energies on touring cities such as London, Paris, Berlin, and Rome.

I once spent two weeks in Rome in December and loved it. The Vatican Museum was almost empty (that never happens at any other time of year) and the days were clear and crisp.

In winter, the concert season is in full swing, you’ll find plenty of exhibitions to tour, and prices for accommodations will be lower. In northern Europe, the days are shorter, but since you’ll mostly be visiting indoor sites, the lack of daylight isn’t a drawback.

I visited Iceland for ten days in February and enjoyed clear skies on every day but one. I also was able to commune with the major scenic sites in relative solitude and even saw the northern lights.

Winter At a Glance

Crowds: Popular destinations will be much less crowded, and purchasing advance tickets typically not required except for the most popular sites such as da Vinci’s Last Supper in Milan.

Activities: Major exhibitions and concert seasons are ongoing; also, Christmas celebrations and decorations enliven December all over Europe.

Weather: Chilly in the south growing increasingly colder as you move north, with rain common and snow likely

Touring Europe: Spring is the Winner!

The spring months are the perfect time to tour Europe if you don’t have your heart set on enjoying beach time or lazy afternoons by the pool. Even in southern Italy, the beaches don’t open until the end of May, and the unheated pools in most resorts are frigid.

A cloudy sky over a beach with rows of wooden lounge chairs and white umbrellas lined up on a sandy shoreline — A breezy beach in southern Italy in early May is still not open for business.

In spring, the crowds are generally larger than in fall or winter (but not as large as in summer!). You won’t be enjoying your favorite sites alone (read about my ill-fated visit to the Colosseum in Rome in May!), but at least the weather won’t be as hot.

Standing in long lines when the temperature is 24 C is manageable. Doing the same thing when the temperature hits 40 C is not.

One caveat about traveling in spring—be prepared for rain. I almost always experience a lot more rain in Europe in the spring than in the fall. On a recent trip to Italy in May, I wore a dress and sandals only once. The rest of the time, I needed long pants and a warmish jacket.

And in April and May in Paris, expect rain and then sun and then rain on repeat.

Woman in a beige coat and purple scarf standing on a bridge in Paris with the Eiffel Tower in the foggy background.

A woman in a beige coat and turquoise scarf smiling on a bridge in Paris, with the River Seine behind her and the Louvre and surrounding buildings in the background under a clear blue sky.

As with fall and winter, a lot of major exhibitions at museums and galleries start in the spring. In addition, concert seasons are still in full swing.

You’re also more likely to stumble across pageants and processions in spring, particularly around Easter.

A man in a red and yellow medieval costume proudly waving a matching flag featuring a lion and cross emblem, with other people in period clothing walking behind him in a historical setting. — Medieval processions are popular in Tuscany in the spring

Tulips!

And if you can, make a point of visiting the Netherlands in the spring so you can tiptoe through the tulips in the fabulous Keukenhof Gardens. You’ll find plenty of crowds (go early to avoid the tour busses), but the chance to see so many tulips in one gloriously landscaped garden is not to be missed.

I’ve visited Keukenhof Gardens in April twice. It doesn’t get old.

A vibrant garden scene with rows of pink, white, and purple flowers weaving through bright green grass, surrounded by tall trees and spring blossoms. — View of tulips in the Keukenhof Gardens in the Netherlands

Spring At a Glance

Crowds: Popular destinations can be crowded with advance tickets advisable for most sites and required for very popular sites and museums such as the Uffizi and the Louvre

Activities: Major exhibitions and concert seasons are ongoing.

Weather: Moderate in the south and chilly in the north but generally good weather for sightseeing, although often rainier in the spring than in the summer and fall

A Note About Costs

Costs vary from place to place and season to season. You’ll pay more when you travel in high season, but high season is not always summer.

At a ski resort in the Alps, for example, the high season is winter.

I’ve generally found that prices are low-ish in winter, relatively affordable in spring and fall, and at their peak in summer, depending on the destination.

At popular times of the year, steer clear of resorts and tourist meccas such as Paris and Florence. Instead, seek out off-the-beaten path destinations. Regardless of the time of year, you’ll encounter fewer crowds, meet more locals, and get better value for the money you spend.

Top Tips for Touring Europe

Planning a trip to Europe is almost as fun as going on a trip to Europe. Keep in mind these three tips and you’re sure to make informed choices:

Tip #1: Choose countries based on the weather: go north in the warmer months and south in the cooler months.

Tip #2: Check when major exhibitions and concerts are scheduled and plan accordingly.

Tip #3: Avoid crowds by visiting popular tourist spots during less popular times such as in fall and winter, or first thing in the morning or late in the afternoon.

Ultimately, the best time to travel to Europe is whenever you have the time. You may have to go to Greece in August.

If so, travel smart by avoiding strenuous activities during the heat of the day, scheduling visits to tourist hot spots such as the Acropolis in the early morning or evening (it stays open quite late), and opting for less sightseeing time and more pool/beach time.

Or you may only be able to visit England in December. No worries! Spend the mornings visiting scenic areas and quaint villages, and then visit museums later in the day when the sun starts to go down.

And in London, spend an evening or two enjoying a West End show.

Conclusion

What advice do you have for someone planning a trip to Europe? In what seasons have you traveled? Which were great? Which are best avoided? Share your experiences in the comments below.

For more posts about traveling smart check out:

Visit Rome’s Best Kept Literary Oasis: The Keats-Shelley House

Arts & Culture, Destinations, Italy, Museums Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:33 pm

If you’re a fan of English Romantic poets, then you must make a pilgrimage to the Keats-Shelley House in Rome.

This lovely little literary museum is nestled right next to the world famous Spanish Steps in Rome. Thousands of visitors mill around the piazza in front of the steps, climb the steps, and take pictures of the steps.

Yes, the steps really are very attractive–lots of flowers and a striking two-tower church at the top.

Pinterest graphic with the text The Keats-Shelley House. Above the text is a picture of the interior of the museum with old style bookcases. The picture below the text shows busts of the poets Keats and Shelley.

But in the end, the steps are, well, steps. If you go to the Spanish Steps, take a quick pic and then veer right to visit the Keats-Shelley House. You’re in for a first-rate Artsy Traveler experience.

Literary Leanings

If you’ve been reading the Artsy Traveler blog for awhile, you probably know that I write mostly arts-inspired historical novels. My first three novels feature a painter (The Towers of Tuscany), a composer (A Woman of Note), and an actress (The Muse of Fire).

So, as a novelist, I’m a lover of literature, and what could be more literary than two of the greatest Romantic poets?

Also, back in the day when I went to university in England, I took my degree in English Literature. As a result, I studied a lot of poetry, particularly by Shelley.

So to enter rooms where Keats and Shelley hung out, really is a pilgrimage.

A richly stocked library with bookshelves filled with over 8,000 volumes, considered one of the finest Romantic literature collections in the world.

Touring the Keats-Shelley House

The Keats-Shelley House is extremely easy to find thanks to its location next to the Spanish Steps. You’ll also see the banner hanging outside.

The Keats-Shelley House is open from 10 to 1 and 2 to 6, and includes a special rate for seniors.

The ticket person got on my good side by telling us we didn’t qualify for the senior’s rate because it’s only for people over 65. Awww. That was kind of her.

But needless to say, I corrected her and got the reduced rate.

You enter the museum and climb to the first floor where you’ll find the tiny gift shop (more on that later) and the ticket taker.

After paying the entrance fee, turn right to tour a series of beautiful rooms containing a great many treasures and curiosities associated with the lives and works of several of the Romantic poets and their associates.

You’ll see letters written by Keats, Shelley, Bryon, Mary Shelley, Wordsworth, and other luminaries from the time. The evenness of their penmanship puts most modern folks to shame!

Also on display are drawings, snippets of poetry, paintings, and other memorabilia. The explanations are clear and informative.

Why The Poets Loved Italy

Back in the 18th and 19th centuries, with a decade or two off during the beginning of the 19th century for the Napoleonic Wars, Italy was a mecca for poets and writers from northern climes, including the Romantic poets from England, and Goethe from Germany.

These writers loved Italy’s warm weather, easy-going life, and the inspiration to be found in so many centuries of history. What attracted them to Italy back then isn’t so very different from what attracts me to Italy today.

It’s a very special country with so much to offer. No wonder I keep coming back year after year!

Rooms in the Keats-Shelley House

The rooms in the Keats-Shelley House include a library of more than 8,000 volumes. It’s considered one of the finest libraries of Romantic literature in the world.

Thoughtfully presented displays provide you with a lot to read as you prowl around the rooms. You could spend a great deal of time here!

The tour through the rooms ends at the tiny bedroom where John Keats died on February 23, 1821 at the age of just 25. It’s astonishing how he was able to compose so much sublime poetry in so few years. The museum includes plenty of information in English and Italian about Keats, his life, his tragic death, and of course his poetry.

Was it a vision, or a waking dream?
Fled is that music:—Do I wake or sleep?

From Ode to a Nightingale

Here is the bed on which Keats died.

A simple bedroom where poet John Keats passed away, showcasing a modest bed and period furnishings.

Byron’s Bicentenary

At first, I was mystified by the several banners related to Byron on display in the main library. After all, it’s the Keats-Shelley House. The very friendly and knowledgeable attendant told us that the House is celebrating the Bicentenary of Byron’s death in 1824.

His poetry is figured prominently on red banners. I haven’t read Byron for many years, so it was a real treat to reacquaint myself with some of his poetry.

banner containing poetry by Byron at the Keats-Shelley House in Rome

We had a great chat with the attendant about the poets, Mary Shelley and her mum Mary Wollstonecraft, and the arts in general.

I mentioned that I’d interviewed Samantha Silva, author of Love and Fury about Mary Wollstonecraft on The Art In Fiction Podcast. Since the attendant was obviously interested in the era, I figured she may want to read the novel (highly recommended, by the way). She was delighted to learn about it and promised to look up the podcast.

I also told her about my novels and gave her one of my bookmarks because, well, marketing.

The Terrace

A highlight of a visit to the Keats-Shelley House is walking out on to the sweet little terrace overlooking the Spanish Steps. Imagine Keats and the gang sitting out there on a warm May afternoon sipping tea and talking poetry!

It’s pretty cool to think that the view Keats saw wasn’t all that dissimilar to the view we see today.

A vibrant view of the Spanish Steps in Rome, adorned with colorful flowers, leading up to the twin towers of Trinità dei Monti Church. Visitors gather around the piazza in front of the steps.

The house included drawings of the Piazza Spagna and the steps in the early 19th century, and indeed, not much has changed if you look above the ground floor shops.

The Gift Shop

After thoroughly enjoying touring the rooms, we exited via the gift shop. I couldn’t resist buying myself a cloth bag with a Grecian Urn on it, homage to Keats’s Ode to a Grecian Urn.

I also studied the collection of fridge magnets. We’ve taken to buying them most places we visit. Back home, our fridge door is getting pretty full up, but there’s always room for one more, or in this case, three.

I couldn’t decide which magnet to buy–Keats, Shelley, or Bryon–and so I bought all three.

Here they are–Keats on the left, Shelley in the middle, and Byron on the right. These guys were all in the twenties and early thirties when they were hanging out together, and all three died young.

They’re a bit like the rock stars of their time–living with unbridled passion and energy that burned out quickly, but wow, what a legacy they each left in their wake!

Conclusion

Have you visited the Keats-Shelley House in Rome? What did you think Share your impressions in the comments below for other Artsy Travelers.

Artsy Tours in Rome

I couldn’t find any literary-themed tours in Rome on GetYourGuide, so here’s a selection of tours related to music and also a tour of locations mentioned in Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code series.

Note that I include tours listed on the GetYourGuide website because I’ve taken and enjoyed many of their tours.

How Not to Tour the Colosseum in Rome

Activities, Arts & Culture, Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:28 pm

You’ve arrived in Rome! Maybe, you’ve been lucky enough to have your taxi whisk you past the Colosseum on your way to your accommodations.

There it is! It’s huge! OMG!

We’re in the Eternal City!

This is SO cool!

The upper facade of the Colosseum with arches and weathered stone against a bright blue sky. Overlaid text reads, “How Not to Tour the Colosseum in Rome,” with the website "artsytraveler.com" at the bottom.

Yes, the Colosseum in Rome is impressive and iconic. It’s the symbol of Rome and one of the seven wonders of the world. Millions of visitors come from all over the globe to see it. They snap selfies in front of it, gaze out over its ruined amphitheater, and stand in line-ups for hours.

My question is–should you bother? My answer? It depends!

Tours & Accommodations at a Glance

Tour the Colosseum on a Small Group Evening Tour
Stay at the Sant’Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto
Stay at Viam 6B near the Spanish Steps

My Rome Colosseum History

Since my first visit to Rome in 1974, I’ve popped into the Colosseum four times. Three of those visits were great.

The most recent one was a nightmare.

The Colosseum itself hasn’t changed much apart from some restoration work over the decades. It’s still a massive ruin that, while impressive, bears little similarity to the magnificent original built over two thousand years ago.

Earthquakes, looting, and the general wear and tear of two millennia, not to mention the shuffling feet of millions and millions of visitors have taken their toll.

What has changed for visitors in recent years is just how incredibly crowded the Colosseum has become. The Colosseum ranks as the number one tourist attraction in Rome. Even St. Peter’s and the Vatican aren’t that crowded (although they are pretty much overrun).

Although I have no way of knowing for sure, I get the feeling during my most recent visit to the Colosseum that many people are ticking it off their must-see list, whether they are enjoying it or not. What a shame! Rome is so much more fabulous than the Colosseum.

The Colosseum is amazing, for sure. But is it worth your time to go inside when you can snap a photo like the one below with zero effort?

Exterior of the Colosseum in Rome showing columns and blue sky.

Should You Visit Rome and Not Go to the Colosseum?

Gasp! Should you do it? If you want to enjoy this marvelous city and you’re visiting between April to October, then I say yes, give the Colosseum a miss. Also forget the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel. You might consider visiting St. Peter’s since in my experience, the line moves fairly briskly and at least you’re outdoors for most of the wait.

But back to the Colosseum. In this post, I’ll describe my latest visit. You can then decide for yourself if it’s worth several hours of your precious sightseeing time. Or, would you be better off skipping the crowds and heading for some of the city’s quieter and infinitely more lovely sights such as the cosy Keats-Shelley House near the Spanish Steps?

Signing Up for a Colosseum Tour: Smart Idea or ?

As a savvy traveler (or at least so I like to think!), I know that the early visitor beats the crowds. The two-hour guided tour of the Colosseum I sign up for starts at 8 am and guarantees first entry into the site.

I imagine wandering through deserted passageways, the morning sun slanting pleasingly across the ancient ruins. The only sounds are the murmurs of the guide, a few tweeting birds, and perhaps the whispers of long-gone gladiators wafting up from the cells beneath the arena.

I mean, who starts sightseeing so early in the morning? For sure, I’ll have the place to myself along with a handful of other intrepid travelers willing to sign up for an early morning tour.

Finding the Tour

Promptly at 7:50 am, I arrive at the meeting point across the street from one of the entrances to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. A small crowd of at least fifty people all proffering cell phones is my clue that I’m in the right place. I wait patiently for the beleaguered guide to check my phone, declare me valid, and press a small white sticker onto my chest. It’s now about 8:10 am, so obviously the tour doesn’t actually start at 8 am.

While waiting, I snap a photo of the Roman Forum across the street. It looks splendid in the early morning sun of one of the first really warm days I’ve experienced in Rome on my current trip in early May.

A daytime view of the Roman Forum, showing historic stone buildings, a bell tower, and a dome against a blue sky. Greenery and trees surround the ancient structures, with traffic lights in the foreground.

Waiting to Enter the Colosseum

Several minutes later, we are ushered across the road to the entrance gate and told that the ticket takers open at 8:30 and that we will be first! (said with enthusiasm, like it is a rare treat and not what we’ve signed up for).

Ticket takers? I’d neglected to read the fine print of the tour. The cost does not include the cost of entry into the archaeological site which includes the Forum and Palatine Hill in addition to the Colosseum.

A word of warning: Check what’s included in your tour and opt for a tour that includes the entry cost so the guide already has your tickets.

Lesson learned, I prepare to wait in line (at least I am close to the front) until the ticket booths open at 8:30–another fifteen minutes. After all, the guide has assured us that we’ll be first into the Colosseum. Isn’t that worth waiting a few extra minutes for?

Remember the tweeting birds, the silence of the ancient stones, the gladiator ghosts reminiscing about gladiator fights, the glorious isolation!

Buying a Ticket to the Colosseum

At precisely 8:40 am, the ticket takers open the two wickets and the first people in line eagerly step forward to buy their tickets. Yahoo! The line will surely go quickly and I’ll be inside the Colosseum communing with history and getting tons of inspiration for my next novel in no time flat.

8:50 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth.

9:00 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth. Oh wait! One of the groups has left and another couple has stepped forward. But at the other booth, the same four people are still talking with the attendant. What can they be talking about? What’s the holdup? Are they sharing recipes? Have they found a long-lost cousin? What gives?

The guide comes by and tells us to have our passports out and ready to show the ticket takers. What? I don’t have my passport with me although fortunately I do have my driver’s license. I ask the guide if that will do. Yes. Phew.

Another five minutes goes by and the first group of four finally leaves the booth. They are looking weary but relieved. I’d love to ask them what went down, but of course I don’t dare risk losing my place in line.

The next group steps forward. I take to counting to gauge how long they stay at the booth. Sixty seconds, another sixty, another sixty…five minutes and they’re done. Another ten minutes goes by during which time a few more groups get to the booth and then several minutes later step away, tickets in hand. Their per wait time is marginally decreasing.

Progress is being made.

My Turn Getting Tickets for the Colosseum

Finally, it’s my turn. I’m about to find out why it takes almost five minutes to process each person in a line that is now stretching back to the road and a considerable way along it. Did all these people book a group tour that required them to buy tickets?

I find out later that yes, they are all group tour people. The “regular” people who just want a ticket to the Colosseum without a tour buy their tickets at another booth. I’ll soon discover that many, many hundreds of them get inside the Colosseum long before we arrive.

So much for us being first!

Anyway, I’m at the booth.

“One for the Colosseum, per favore.”

“One?”

“Si.”

The attendant shakes her head as if to say what kind of a loser visits the Colosseum all by themselves first thing in the morning? I don’t share that my husband has elected to do the smart thing and spend a leisurely morning enjoying cappuccino and a walk about the chic ‘hood we’re staying in up near the Piazza del Popolo.

Instead, I push my driver’s license under the glass barrier and she places it in front of her keyboard. Then, with two stiff fingers, she laboriously starts to type. No wonder this whole process is taking forever! She has to physically enter the ID for every single person in line and she can’t touch type.

Oh dear.

After about two minutes (possibly a record), she hands me back my driver’s license, I pay with my credit card, and then I go stand with my fellow line waiters for the tour to begin.

It’s now 9:30 am.

Starting the Tour of the Colosseum–Almost

Promptly at 9:45 am, only 1 hour and 45 minutes past the tour start time, our guide leads those of us who have Colosseum tickets marked 9:15 am to another loooooong line. This is the line for all the Skip-the-Line group tours. As I said, it’s long.

Security Line at the Colosseum

We wait for another twenty minutes while the guide finally explains why progress that morning has been unusually slow. I’m at least heartened to find out that the current process is not normal. Apparently, there was a security incident (bomb scare?) a few days earlier, and since May 1 (it’s May 3^rd), new procedures using a new security firm are being instituted.

Unfortunately, thorough testing is lacking so chaos reigns as the Colosseum ticket takers are obliged to enter everyone’s ID information into the computer and new security personnel are stationed at the entrances to the actual Colosseum to again check IDs and tickets.

Entering the Colosseum

We finally reach the front of the Skip-the-Line group tour line and enter the outer perimeter of the Colosseum.

It’s big. Really big—much bigger than it looks from the road with massive columns that soar way up into the blue Roman sky. Inside, the arches are truly impressive. Roman engineering is a marvel.

A long, dimly lit hallway inside the Colosseum, featuring massive stone columns and arches. Tourists walk through the corridor, which captures the grandeur and history of the ancient structure.

The guide starts her spiel while leading us to yet another line. She tells us that construction of the Colosseum began between 70 and 72 CE during the reign of the Emperor Vespasian. Before then, the area had been a lake on the grounds of Nero’s Domus Aurea (golden house).

Nero was not popular, to say the least, and so the decision to replace his private lake with a public amphitheater hosting thousands of locals was a great way to erase him from recent history.

The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with Euros so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.

Not Everyone Loves Rome

The guide takes a break from her history lesson and cheerfully asks two people in the group where they are from. They reply that they are from Austria and that never again will they come to Rome because it is horrible and dirty. I am offended on behalf of both myself and the guide who smiles gamely but I can see is a trifle nonplussed. I mean, rude much? Apparently, the Austrians booked into a hotel that is less than stellar and that has colored their whole opinion of one of my favorite cities in the world.

I want to tell them that the place we’re staying in is absolutely wonderful—clean, spacious and in an excellent location. Here’s the link to our serviced apartment called Viam 6B. It truly is one of the best places we’ve stayed in Rome, ever.

Perhaps the Austrians decided to cheap out. Rome is a fabulous place to visit, but accommodations are not budget friendly. But then you can say that about just about every destination in Europe in recent years. The days of Europe on $5 a day (or even $100 or $200 a day) belong to the middle of the last century.

The guide decides not to ask the rest of the group about their experience. The mood is already a bit iffy considering we’ve all stood in lines for more than two hours for our first-into-the-Colosseum tour and haven’t actually started touring the Colosseum. We are in it, but only just.

The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with coins so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.

Climbing to the Top of the Colosseum

And then, finally, we’re in and the tour officially begins. The guide talks to us for quite a while about the history of the Colosseum and then invites us to trudge up three flights of very steep steps to look out over the arena.

We emerge into a surging Sargasso Sea of visitors all packed cheek by jowl along the railing much like the spectators must have done during the Colosseum’s heyday. Everyone’s snapping selfies (something that wasn’t done during the days of the Roman empire) and I suppose communing with their inner gladiator.

We walk and walk and walk some more around the perimeter to a slightly less crowded stretch of railing, and get our one minute of time to snap pics of the ancient amphitheater.

A panoramic view of the Colosseum’s interior, showcasing tiered seating, arches, and the underground chambers. Crowds of tourists walk along designated paths inside the historic amphitheater.

Yes, it’s an impressive place for sure. In its day, up to 70,000 screaming Romans watched gladiatorial combat, executions, triumphal celebrations, and other spectacles. Today, approximately 16,000 people visit the Colosseum every single day. So although the place feels very crowded to me, it is positively empty compared to what it would have been back when the arena floor was covered in sand to better absorb the blood.

The guide talks about how wild beasts were starved for days before being let loose to gnaw on convicts, Christian martyrs, and anyone else the Emperor didn’t like. It’s the odd interesting fact such as this that you get from a guided tour.

Is A Guided Tour of the Rome Colosseum Worth the Wait?

So, should you opt for a guided tour of Rome’s most famous monument, check it out on your own, or forget about it and do something that doesn’t involve rubbing shoulders (literally) with thousands of strangers?

You may have guessed my opinion, which is Door #3. The entire tour/ordeal lasted about three hours, with the smallest number of minutes devoted to the tour and the largest to waiting for the tour.

Now, to be fair, the extra security measures ate up a goodly chunk of that three hours. I don’t know if these measures will become the norm going forward, in which case be prepared for waits, or if it’s temporary. You’ll have to check that out before you book.

I don’t blame the tour guide for all the waiting. She was doing her best in difficult circumstances and to her credit remained cheerful and upbeat throughout. I gave her a 5 Euro tip which appeared to surprise her, but hey, I figure she’d earned it.

Most people either didn’t tip or gave her 5 euros for their entire party which I thought was a bit cheap of them. Tips are not required, but I think it’s a good idea to give the guide a little extra considering they probably don’t get paid all that much, and it’s a challenging job at the best of times.

Touring the Colosseum On Your Own

What about the second option—see the Colosseum on your own? I think it may be marginally the better option because you don’t need to arrive at a location two hours ahead of when you get in. Instead, you can go straight to the ticket line and take your chances. The wait could be 10 minutes or two hours.

You could also buy your ticket online. You’ll still need to stand in line-ups, but not for quite so long. It’s difficult to say. We bought our “skip-the-line” tickets to Pompeii online and still had to wait in line about 20 minutes to exchange the online tickets for real tickets.

When To Visit the Colosseum

I think the moral of the story is that whatever way you slice it, sites like the Colosseum are really, really popular. You can try to beat the crowds, but I don’t think in any universe you’ll get around waiting in long lines.

My advice? Either visit the Colosseum during the off-season (November to March) when crowds are thinner, or forget about it and go see some of the city’s other awesome sites.

Tours of the Colosseum

If you do opt for a tour (and I’m just saying, buyer beware), then GetYourGuide has plenty of tours to choose from. I suggest choosing a tour that includes a ticket to the Colosseum and the Forum so you won’t need to line up to buy your ticket separately.

Also, you may be better off booking a tour in the late afternoon or opt for one of the evening tours instead of the morning. I felt like everyone fueled up on their hotel breakfast as early as possible and made a beeline for the Colosseum as their first stop of the day. Possibly later in the day may be less frantic.

This evening tour may be a good bet:

Other Sites in Rome

Rome is chock-a-block full of amazing things to see and do. Here are some of my favorite sites in Rome. You’ll note that I don’t include big ticket items like the Vatican Museum, St. Peter’s, the Pantheon, and the Trevi Fountain, all of which are over-run with visitors.

Walking tour of the Jewish Ghetto
Capitoline Museum
Etruscan Museum
Keats/Shelley House at the Spanish Steps
Modern Art Museum
Borghese Gardens
Baths of Caracella

These are just a sampling. There are also a ton of fabulous churches, some with Roman foundations.

My Favorite Activity in Rome

For me, my favorite Rome activity is walking around the various neighborhoods and avoiding the bottleneck areas around the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, St. Peter’s Square, and especially the Trevi Fountain. If you want to experience any of those places crowd-free, either swing by late at night or go for a very early morning stroll.

Here’s a shot taken on our way home after a scrumptious dinner in a restaurant on an atmospheric side street just steps from where we stayed at Viam 6B, which was not far from the Spanish Steps.

A narrow cobblestone street in Rome at night, lined with potted plants and historic buildings with shutters. A woman in a floral dress stands under streetlights, adding to the serene, atmospheric scene.

Accommodation Options in Rome

On my latest trip to Rome, I stayed in two places in Rome because I broke up the 2-week stay with a 5-day trip south to Naples and Paestum (read about my visit to the incomparable Naples Archaeological Museum).

For the first week, I stayed at Sant’Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome, very close to a lot of Roman ruins in addition to the Capitoline Museum and the Piazza Venezia, site of the Victor Emmanuel monument. The apartment was very atmospheric and in an excellent location for exploring ancient Rome.

After touring the Naples area, I returned to Rome and stayed at Viam 6B, located between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Popolo–a very upscale and chi-chi part of Rome with lots of designer stores. I preferred the location of the first place because the area was much less touristy and very medieval-feeling. However, the apartment at Viam 6B, was very modern and comfortable and included a beautiful outdoor terrace. It was also staffed which is nice for getting directions and ordering taxis.

But both places were great and I’d cheerfully stay in either on my next trip to Rome.

More Tour Options for Rome

Touring major sites such as the Colosseum and Vatican in Rome can get tiring. Why not take a break and opt for a more relaxing experience, such as this food tour of the lively Trastevere District (one of my favorite areas of Rome).

Walking Tours of Rome

If you enjoy walking tours, I can recommend the tours offered by GuruWalks. Here are a few of the tours available in Rome.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Colosseum in Rome recently and not found it crowded? Do you have any tips for how to have an enjoyable visit? Please share in the comments below.

Posts About Rome

Here are some more posts about Rome, one of my very favorite cities in the world. I’ve visited eight times, and I’m not done yet!

How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

Arts & Culture, Destinations, Europe, Italy, Museums Artsy Traveler 2 Comments

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:33 pm

Naples-bound? Then put the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli aka the National Archaeological Museum of Naples high on your list of must-sees.

I’ve visited Pompeii twice before my most recent trip in 2024 and both times, I never managed to visit the Naples National Archaeological Museum. I came close when visiting with my family in 1994. We took a taxi from our hotel to the museum on our way to Pompeii only to find it closed.

In those pre-Google days, I’d neglected to read the guide book.

A detailed mosaic depicting various birds, plants, and animals, overlaid with the text, “Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.” The bottom section features the website "artsytraveler.com."

So on my latest trip I was determined to finally see the museum because it houses the vast majority of the art excavated from ancient Pompeii and Herculaneum and is considered one of the best archeological museums in the world.

Museum & Naples at a Glance

Take a guided tour of the museum
Museum highlights:
- The sculpture collection, particularly Hercules at Rest
- Collection of everyday objects is a poignant reminder of the people who lived and died in Pompeii
- The “Zootopia” mosaic with its bevy of wild animals
- Portrait of the poet Sappho
Great apartment to stay in Naples: Palazzorefici
Recommended tour of Naples that includes Pompeii.

See the National Archaeological Museum of Naples First!

Now that I’ve toured the National Archaeological Museum, I can without hesitation recommend that you go there first and then tour the ruins of Pompeii and/or Herculaneum. Both cities were buried in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 CE, with excavations starting at far back as the 16th century.

As you’ll discover, Pompeii and Herculaneum are pretty much all ruins (quel surprise!) with the vast majority of the frescoes, mosaics, and statues long ago removed to the National Archaeological Museum.

Also, to be honest, wandering around Pompeii in the heat (I visited in late April and it was 30 degrees) with thousands of other visitors is not as comfortable an experience as strolling through room after room in the thoughtfully air conditioned National Archaeological Museum of Naples.

Overview of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

In this post, I’ll share some of my favorite parts of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples (MANN) with the proviso that the museum is chock-a-block with amazing objects from antiquity.

I’ve rarely seen such a beautifully appointed museum where just about every item in it is worth a stop and a good long look.

You can easily visit the National Archaeological Museum in about two to three hours, depending on your energy level. You’ll also find a good cafe so you can take a break for refueling after touring a floor or two.

I did, and it made all the difference to my enjoyment of the museum.

The exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, a grand pink building with arched windows, statues, and palm trees lining the street under a clear blue sky. — Exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples

When I toured MANN in late April, the crowds were light (unlike the next day in Pompeii!) and I waited only a few minutes at the entrance to buy tickets.

In busier times of the year, you may want to skip the ticket line by buying your tickets online from the museum’s website or through resellers such as Get Your Guide. Here’s an option that includes a guided tour:

Plan of Attack

The museum is organized according to type of art, so you’ll find rooms full of artifacts from Pompeii, including sculptures, mosaics, everyday objects, frescoes, and coins.

I saw most of what was on display in the sculpture, mosaic, everyday objects, and fresco areas. The quality of the work is awe-inspiring.

I suggest starting with the sculptures on the ground floor and then going to the top floor and working your way down. Doing so minimizes stair climbs (there’s an elevator to whisk you to the second floor) and conserves energy.

Sculptures

Start with sculptures because they are the first things you see when you enter the museum.

Wowza! They are stunning. I didn’t expect to see so many really large sculptures that looked like they were chiseled yesterday when in fact they are almost 2000 years old.

Here’s a selection of my favorites.

Hercules at Rest

Even big guys like Hercules can use some time off now and again. This massive sculpture of old Herc shows him leaning on his club. The sculpture is a Roman copy from the end of the 2nd/beginning of the 3rd Century CE of a Greek statue from the second half of the 4th century BCE. The subject of Hercules at rest is a very popular one. It shows him exhausted and pensive after having undertaken yet another labor for his cousin Eurytheus.

While the top half of Hercules sags with fatigue, his legs and feet still look dynamic, as if he was ready to spring into action (yet again) at any moment. The sheer size of the statue took my breath away–and it’s just one of many dozens of sculptures in MANN.

A massive marble statue of Hercules standing, leaning on his club draped with a lion’s skin. The muscular figure is displayed in a grand hall with museum visitors in the background.

Hercules is part of the Farnese Collection, which was one of the first collections of artistic items from Greco-Roman antiquity.

It was started by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese (he later became Pope Paul III) back in the 16th century when collecting antiquities started being all the rage. Many of the works in MANN are from his collection.

Dog Sculptures

Large sculptures dominate the rooms, but they are by no means the only sculptures worth admiring at MANN. Here are three incredibly charming sculptures of Roman pooches. They look like they could come to life at any minute and run toward you, tails wagging.

A marble sculpture of a dog sitting and scratching itself with its hind leg, carved with detailed musculature and a lifelike posture.

Two marble statues of dogs seated on stone bases, both with their heads tilted upwards, possibly barking or howling. The detailed carvings highlight the dogs’ muscular forms and expressive faces.

A marble statue of a dog lying down on a stone base, its body relaxed and head slightly raised. The sculpture captures the animal’s muscular build and detailed features.

Athena

Athena is the Goddess of Wisdom, along with warfare and handicrafts. The next time you pick up a knitting project, call on Athena for some extra guidance!

This sculpture (bigger than can possibly be portrayed in a photo) really shows off Athena’s robes in all their pleated glory.

A marble statue of the goddess Athena in full armor, holding out a shield-like cloth decorated with a gorgon’s face. The statue stands tall in a museum setting with visitors in the background.

Bust of a Woman

I don’t know who this is but I love her hair! At least I think the bust is of a woman’s head.

She looks a bit careworn, perhaps from having to cope with all those corkscrew locks every day. I also loved the black stone–an interesting break from the predominantly cream-colored marble used to create most of the other sculptures in MANN.

It’s hard to believe this sculpture dates back two millennia. Like most of the sculptures in MANN, the bust is in near perfect shape.

A bronze bust of a woman’s head with intricate spiral-patterned hair. The sculpture rests on a pedestal, showing lifelike facial features and detailed craftsmanship.

Petite Figure

This small statuette of a child is one of several equally adorable pieces. You can understand how the artists descended from the ones who sculpted these pieces came up with cupids!

The pieces look incredibly lifelike.

A marble sculpture of a young boy seated, holding a cornucopia filled with fruits. The sculpture captures intricate details of the boy’s curly hair and gentle expression.

Everyday Objects

For me, a highlight of the MANN collection is the vast array of household and everyday objects that were salvaged from Pompeii during excavations that began in the late 18th century. Many of the objects were remarkably preserved–pots, glassware, small statues of household gods, combs, jewelry, cooking utensils–you name it.

The ancient Roman versions of pretty much everything humans need to cook, clean, and live in houses is on display.

It turns out that Romans aren’t all that different from us when it comes to the stuff they had in their houses. Take away our electronics and indoor plumbing, and we’re left with similar objects to those used by the average Pompeii resident: wine bottles, cooking pots, jewelry, cups, combs, chairs, and the like.

Here are some particularly fine examples of the household objects salvaged from the ruins of both Herculaneum and Pompeii.

Glass Cup

Can you believe this cup is 2000 years old? I was astonished to see it in the display, but yup, according to the description. the object is a “so-called millefiori ribbon small cup” from Pompeii in the 1st century CE.

It looks like something I could buy today in Venice.

A colorful ancient glass cup with vibrant blue, green, and white stripes accented by yellow bands, displayed on a reflective surface with a small numbered label "4" in front.

Terracotta Frog

Is this little guy not the sweetest thing? It’s a statuette of a frog made from lead-glazed terracotta. I’m not sure what he was used for, but he sure caught my eye.

And he was just one of many, many such objects artfully displayed in room after well-lit room at MANN.

A terracotta sculpture of a frog with a wide mouth, seated on a base. The texture and details of the frog’s body are finely crafted.

Deep Wine Cup

Look at the handiwork on this lead-glazed terracotta wine cup! It’s decorated with vegetable motifs and doves. Imagine drinking your wine out of that!

A brown ceramic wine cup with two handles shaped like animal heads. The surface is decorated with floral patterns and intricate detailing.

Cosmetic Jar

Ladies in Pompeii wore cosmetics just like women do today. But with plastic rather lacking, they stored their cosmetics in glass containers such as the one shown below.

Again, it looks brand new! The jar is described as free-blown glass from the 1st century CE.

A cylindrical blue glass container with a fitted lid, labeled with the number "3." The container’s surface has minor scratches and signs of age.

Blue Glass Pitcher

And last but not least, I have to include this perfect example of a free-blown glass pitcher. Look at the color! There were also many, many more examples of pitchers blown in darker tones as well as clear glass.

I still can’t get over how they survived the blast, but I guess the ash buried things so thoroughly that they were preserved during the 1800 odd years they lay undisturbed. Remarkable!

A deep blue ancient glass vase with a curved handle and narrow spout, displayed against a white background. The surface shows subtle signs of wear.

Mosaics

The people of Pompeii and Herculaneum sure liked their mosaics. The floors of many houses, particularly those belonging to rich people (of which there were quite a few in Pompeii), were decorated with mosaics.

The mosaics in MANN give just a taste of just how opulent the homes must have been. The intricacy of the mosaics really is breathtaking.

Zootopia Mosaic

Here is a series of three mosaics, displayed in horizontal format, but shown here in three parts to better check out the imagery. Each of these mosaics includes a bevy of wild animals–from hippos to snakes to ducks to crocodiles. What a tour de force!

An elaborate mosaic showing a hippopotamus with an open mouth, ducks, and a crocodile in a marsh setting. The scene is filled with reeds and blooming flowers.

A detailed mosaic featuring ducks, snakes, and a boar set among water plants and flowers. The snakes are shown coiling and slithering in the water.

A vibrant mosaic depicting ducks swimming in water, surrounded by lotus flowers and plants. The ducks are shown in various poses with intricate feather details.

Dog Mosaic

The Romans definitely liked dogs! Here’s another depiction of a dog–this time in mosaic form. This image is very popular; it’s on various products sold in the gift shop, including bags, fridge magnets, and mouse pads.

I did buy a fridge magnet at the MANN gift shop, but of Sappho (see below) not the dog!

A Roman mosaic featuring a black dog on a leash, shown mid-stride with its mouth open, against a background of small white tiles. The leash is highlighted in red.

Sea Creatures

Can you imagine the imagination that concocted this delectable cornucopia of sea creatures? Wow! I particularly like the giant octopus in the middle. The mosaic also reminds me of the kinds of displays you’d see in 19th century natural history museums.

Frescoes

Paintings galore! You won’t believe how many paintings and frescoes you’ll find at MANN. This is because the Romans lavishly painted the inside walls of their villas and added painted embellishments just about anywhere there was a blank wall.

That so many of these paintings survived the eruption of Vesuvius is truly remarkable.

The Romans were unbelievably good painters. They’d mastered perspective and realism 1500 years before the Renaissance. So many of the paintings in MANN look like they could have been painted in the past few hundred years, particularly the gorgeous still lifes.

Here’s my best picks at MANN.

Isis & Snakes

Snakes are quite a recurring theme in the paintings in MANN. I’m not sure why that is; perhaps sea serpents were bigger and more threatening back in the day.

For whatever reason, you’ll see snakes depicted in mosaics and frescoes, and included as details on pots, urns, and other objects.

This fresco, which had once graced the wall of a villa in Pompeii, shows Isis hauling the boat with the body of Osiris along the Nile accompanied by snakes lurking below the surface. Cheerful.

An ancient fresco showing two busts of figures flanking a scene of a boat on water with a shrine and a bird. Beneath them are two large, coiled snakes and a small temple-like structure.

Still Lifes

I couldn’t believe the quality and quantity of still life paintings at MANN. The realism truly is incredible. I have a soft spot for still lifes (see my post about the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam where some of my fave still lifes are exhibited).

I never knew that the ancient Romans were so adept at creating them.

Here are two still lifes–one of dead birds and mushrooms, and the other of a bunny with onions.

A fresco depicting dead birds hanging on a wooden rod above a collection of mushrooms. The muted colors and detailed rendering capture a sense of realism.

A fresco still life depicting a dead rabbit lying on a wooden surface alongside figs and pomegranates. The painting shows detailed textures of the fur and fruits.

Erotica

Don’t miss the Secret Room if you’re inclined to view the museum’s extensive collection of erotic and sexually-themed objects and paintings salvaged from Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The room was finally re-opened in 2000 with a display that organizes objects according to their, ah, function and material.

It’s a bit of an eye-opener, but definitely interesting and proving there is nothing new under the sun!

Portraits

MANN includes several portraits of Romans in its collection. One of the most famous is the portrait of the baker Therentius Neo and his wife. Don’t they look contemporary?

Walking along the streets of Naples after visiting MANN brought us face to face with several of their descendants!

A Roman fresco showing a man and a woman, both holding writing instruments and scrolls. The woman wears a red garment and the man a white tunic, symbolizing literacy and social standing.

Here is another very famous portrait, this one of the poet Sappho, or at least that’s how it’s billed. The truth is that we don’t know if the portrait is actually of Sappho. It’s rather a “typological” representation of a young woman holding a stylus and a wax tablet–two things the real poet Sappho would likely have.

Anyway, it’s nice to think the portrait really is of Sappho which is probably why the image is everywhere in the gift shop, including on the fridge magnet I bought.

A fresco depicting a woman, believed to be the poet Sappho, holding a stylus to her lips and a wax tablet in her other hand. She has curly hair and wears gold earrings, set against a cracked circular frame.

Could This be My Next Character?

And finally, I came across this lovely mosaic portrait of a young woman. According to the description, the mosaic dates to the Julian-Claudian era (27 BCE to 68 CE) in Pompeii. She’s likely pretty high born (check out the necklace).

I love how she looks directly out at the viewer. If I do decide to write a novel set in ancient Rome (and I am toying with some ideas), then this mosaic could be the image of my main character!

An ancient mosaic portrait of a young woman with dark hair tied back, wearing pearl earrings and a necklace. Her gaze is serious, and the background is composed of brown mosaic tiles

Tour Options in the Naples Area

Here are some Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com tickets and tours you may wish to consider while in the Naples area. I frequently purchase tours and tickets from Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com and have yet to be disappointed. The tours they include on their website are, in my experience, reasonably priced and interesting.

Walking Tours of Naples

If you enjoy walking tours, then you can’t go wrong with GuruWalks. Check out their tours in Naples.

Where to Stay in Naples

Here are the two places I’ve stayed in Naples:

The Hotel Paradiso is located on Posillipo Hill and has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.

The Palazzorefici is a stylish apartment deep in the heart of Naples on a tiny side street. It’s close to a main street where you can easily get taxis to where you want to go in Naples.

Conclusion

In this post, I’ve just scratched the surface of the collection at the National Archaeological Museum of Naples. I recommend you make time in your itinerary to visit, preferably as I said earlier, before you visit Pompeii.

In fact, if I had to choose between visiting Pompeii and visiting the museum, I’d choose the museum. Yes, I know that the ruins are way more famous–and they are pretty impressive. However, they truly are mobbed with visitors.

And they are BIG! If you can, visit very early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid the heat. Alternatively, visit at a time of year when temperatures are less ferocious. There is virtually no shade anywhere.

Have you visited the National Archaeological Museum in Naples? What were some of your favorite objects? Share in the comments below.

Here are some most posts about travels in Italy: