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Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam: Guaranteed Thrills for the Artsy Traveler

October 2, 2023October 10, 2024Artsy Sightseeing, Destinations, Europe, Get Inspired, Netherlands carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 10th, 2024 at 03:37 am

I first visited the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam in 1970 and remember it as a gloomy, rather dingy place. The famous Night Watch by Rembrandt was so dark as to be virtually invisible, and I don’t recall seeing any of the amazing objets d’art, from porcelain violins to full-size doll houses, that I saw on recent visits.

Refurbished and renovated, the new Rijksmuseum is a total delight. It’s even more amazing than the Van Gogh Museum, although I suppose it’s not fair to compare! But the main thing to keep in mind is that you’ll need considerably more time to tour the Rijksmuseum than you will for the Van Gogh Museum.

In this post, I share my favorite pieces at the Rijksmuseum, a must-visit for Amsterdam-bound artsy travelers. Make sure you reserve well in advance (more on that later).

Overview of the Rijksmuseum

The most important thing to remember about the Rijksmuseum is its marvelous scope. Yes, there are many, many paintings, including a respectable number of Dutch and Flemish Old Masters, but there are also many, many rooms full of other “stuff”, from model ships to wood sculptures to doll houses. You could spend days exploring.

Location of the Rijksmuseum

The map below shows the location of the Rijksmuseum (#1) in Amsterdam’s Museumplein, easily reached from the Centrum via trams 2 or 12. Also shown is the location of the Van Gogh Museum (#2) next door, and the location of the charming apartment we stayed in on tiny Sint Nicholastraat in the lively Centrum area (#3). Called Here’s Lucy, it’s highly recommended if you’re looking for a private one-bedroom apartment and a much better deal than any hotel I’ve ever stayed at in Amsterdam. The location, not far from the Central Station and the Damrak, is pretty much perfect.

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Medieval Art at the Rijksmuseum

The first room I enter features art from the Middle Ages—and wow! I have a soft spot for art from this period that spans from 1100 to about 1500, and the Rijksmuseum has a superb and varied collection. Here are a few of the knockout pieces.

Wood Sculptures

The figures in this wood sculpture were created in 1475 from a hunk of oak and formed part of a large altar. It depicts the adoration of the newborn child by the Virgin, Joseph and the angels. Check out the detail and the expressions on the faces.

Wood sculpture of jesus and apostles in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

This amusing sculpture from around 1380 of a monk who can barely see over the edge of the pulpit is actually a medieval ink pot. The scribe dipped his pen or quill in the sleeves of the monk’s habit.

Medieval wood sculpture of monk in pulpit s in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

And look at this gem of a sculpture that dates from 1520 – closer to Renaissance than medieval. It’s one of three related pieces. This one depicts the celebration of Mass with Christ. Check out the bread Christ holds in his hands and also the impassive look on the servant girl’s face.

Wood sculpture of Jesus with apostles at dinner n the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

One of the reasons I like medieval art so much is because it depicts the elaborate gowns worn by both men and women, but particularly women. This wooden sculpture is one of 24 similar-sized sculptures that ringed the tomb of Isabella of Bourbon, the wife of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. She died in 1465. The figures represented mourning family members and ancestors and were known as “weepers”.

Medieval statue at the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Renaissance Paintings

While most of the paintings in the medieval and Renaissance rooms at the Rijksmuseum were created in the low countries, this depiction of Mary Magdalene comes from Italy and is an example of the International Gothic style. I’m quite taken by the elaborate coiffure and the beautiful way in which the red gown is rendered.

Gothic painting in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

This landscape depicts an episode in the conquest of America and was painted in 1535 not long after the conquest. The painting is the first to depict Spanish soldiers subduing the people who lived in the “new world.” Jan Jansz Mostaert, the painter, created a traditional European landscape and then added a few exotic elements—a monkey, a porcupine, and some parrots— to show that the landscape was not in fact European.

Painting of soldiers in the New World at the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Dutch Ships at the Rijksmuseum

Several rooms are devoted to displaying models of Dutch ships. They are remarkable! This model of a Dutch warship in the late 17^th century was made at the same dockyards where real warships were built. It’s about one/twelfth life-size. The real ship would have had 74 guns. I am particularly taken by the elaborate decoration and the sheer size of the stern area where presumably the captain would have his quarters. I doubt conditions were quite so luxurious for the regular sailors.

Model of a Dutch warship in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Model ship in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Here’s another view of the many ship models in the Rijksmuseum.

Room of ship models in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Masterworks at the Rijksmuseum

Most visitors to the Rijksmuseum make a beeline for the “Hall of Honour” which includes several paintings by Rembrandt and Vermeer–probably the two most famous Dutch artists.

The Night Watch by Rembrandt

The Night Watch is displayed in a temperature-controlled structure so we can’t get very close. It’s an impressive piece, for sure, and certainly much better to look at now than it was when I first saw it at the age of 14 when it was almost black. Here’s Gregg checking it out.

The Night Watch at the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

And here’s a close-up sans viewers. Thanks to glare, it’s almost impossible to get a decent shot, but you get the idea. There’s so much life and movement in the painting. Everyone is doing something. I like the drummer to the right and the little girl to the left of the guy with the red sash.

Night Watch at the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

The Jewish Bride by Rembrandt

In this beautiful portrayal of a newly married couple, Rembrandt used thick, impasto paint and worked it with a palette knife to create a glittering and sculptural relief. There is a bittersweet quality to this painting. The man looks to be quite a bit older than his bride. While richly dressed, she looks very uncertain about what the future might hold for her.

Rembrandt's Jewish Bride at the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

The Milkmaid by Vermeer

The small, intimate paintings by Vermeer are a big draw at the Rijksmuseum with several groups clustered around them listening to tour guides or audio guides. I managed to sneak through and get this picture of The Milkmaid, which I’ve always had a soft spot for, perhaps because the subject is so humble and yet so exquisitely rendered. She is totally intent upon her task, unaware she will be looked at by millions for centuries to come. This painting also shows how Vermeer was a master of light. You really “get” how great Vermeer was when you compare his paintings to those of most of his contemporaries. While most are competently painted, they don’t glow like Vermeer’s paintings do. He didn’t complete many paintings in his life, but each one was a masterpiece.

The Threatened Swan by Jan Asselijn

This painting by Jan Asselijn is an oil on canvas from 1650. It’s reproduced on bags, mugs, tea towels and other products in the gift shop so obviously it strikes a chord with people. It depicts a swan fiercely defending its nest against a dog. In later centuries, the scuffle was interpreted as a political allegory, with the white swan symbolizing the Dutch statesman Johann de Witt who was assassinated in 1672 while protecting the country from its enemies. This meaning was attached to the painting when it became the first work to be accepted into the collection of the Nationale Kunstgalerij, the forerunner of the Rijksmuseum, in 1800. I’m guessing that the Dutch liked the image of their nation as a swan furiously defending itself.

Threatened Swan in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Still Lifes at the Rijksmuseum

I’ve developed a real fondness for still life paintings—of flowers, kitchen scenes, fruit, and the like. I’m not sure why, but there’s something kind of comforting about super-realistic paintings of everyday things–and the Dutch are masters of the genre.

The Well-Stocked Kitchen by Joachim Beuckelaer

This piece by Joachim Beuckelaer painted in Antwerp in 1566 depicts Christ’s visit to Mary and Martha, although that’s hard to figure out because the action takes place in the background while in the foreground is a profusion of richly painted vegetables, fruit, meat, poultry, and pots and pans. The contrast between the foreground and the background conceals the message of the painting: do not give in to earthly temptations.

Large still life at the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Still Life of Flowers in a Glass Vase by Rachel Ruysch

I’m thrilled to discover that this stiff life was painted by a female artist I’d not heard of. Her name is Rachel Ruysch and I have discovered that she was big news in her time. In fact, she was the most famous female artist of the period. Patrons loved her monumental, sumptuous flower still lifes like this one and paid big guilders to own one. Even after marrying and having ten children, Rachel Ruysch continued to not only paint, but also to sign her paintings with her own name. Now she’s an artist I want to know more about.

Rachel Rausch still life in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Later in the gift shop, I buy a stunningly illustrated book about still lifes from the Dutch Golden Age that includes quite a few of Ruysch’s paintings. Unfortunately, the text is in Dutch, but I buy it anyway so I can enjoy looking at the paintings and drawings, most of which are by women artists. It appears that still lifes—and flower paintings in particular—were popular subjects for female painters of the period.

Still Life with Gilt Cup by Willem Claesz Heda

This painting includes an astounding array of grey tonalities. Heda’s palette is subtle—pewter, silver, damask, glass, mother-of-pearl, with a few yellow and ochre accents thrown in for good measure. He specialized in near monochromatic still lifes that were known as “tonal banquet pieces.”

Monochromatic still life in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Still Life with Cheese by Floris Claesz van Dijck

Van Dijck really brings the subjects in his painting to life. Check out the ridges in the slabs of cheese and how the pewter plate extending over the edge of the table seems to come right out of the painting. Floris van Dijck was considered one of the pioneers of Dutch still-life painting.

Still life with cheese in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Flower Still Life with a Crown Imperios Fritillary in a Stone Niche by Jacob Woutersz Vosmaer

This impressively named painting is an exceptionally large example of a still life. There’s a tactile quality to the flowers that makes them look like they are moving. And then there’s the wee mouse and the cracks in the wall—real life intruding on the luscious beauty of the flower arrangement.

Flower still life at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam

Porcelain at the Rijksmuseum

The Rijksmuseum includes a lot of porcelain and china. I don’t have the energy to tour all the rooms, but my eye is caught by this tin-glazed earthenware violin. It cannot be played and was made purely as a decorative object. The violin is considered to be an absolute masterpiece of Delft earthenware—and no wonder.

Porcelain violin at the Riiksmuseum in amsterdam

Doll Houses at the Rijksmuseum

One of the rooms in the Rijksmuseum is devoted to showcasing two extraordinary dollhouses. They’re both HUGE! And the detail in the rooms is truly astonishing. Here are just a few of the interiors.

Practical Information About the Rijksmuseum

The Rijksmuseum can sell out so buy your tickets online at least a week before you plan to travel to Amsterdam (possibly more during the busy summer months). Most visitors appear to get the audio guide which probably enhances the viewing experience. We did not get it, preferring to discuss the pieces as we look at them. Click one of the options below to purchase your ticket.

Rijksmuseum Tours with Tiqets.com

Here are some options for tours of the Rijksmuseum offered through Tiqets.com

Conclusion

The Rijksmuseum is well worth several hours of your time on even the shortest visit to Amsterdam. I would venture to say that it’s even better than the neighboring Van Gogh Museum simply because it’s a lot bigger and has a lot more to look at. But at the same time, the Rijksmuseum is not overwhelming. In my opinion, it’s a perfectly sized major museum to keep me entertained for a good two or three hours, with a wee break at some point to sample a coffee and a piece of cake in the airy cafeteria and of course to check out the gift shop.

Have you visited the Rijksmuseum? What are some of your favorites? Share in the comments below.

Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam: Best Bets for the Artsy Traveler

September 26, 2023October 8, 2024Artsy Sightseeing, Destinations, Europe, Get Inspired, Netherlands carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 8th, 2024 at 02:34 am

I remember the first time I saw the Van Gogh Museum, almost 50 years ago. Compared to the gingerbread façade of its neighbor, the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum is sleek and modern, and when I first saw it in 1974, it was fringed with massively tall sunflowers. I burst out laughing. How appropriate!

On my latest trip to Amsterdam in September 2023, I didn’t see the sunflowers, but the sleek, modern building remains and still houses the world’s most extensive and lovingly presented collection of work by the Netherlands’s fave artist–Vincent van Gogh. During his lifetime, he didn’t get much love from his home country, but that oversight has been more than made up for in recent decades.

Vincent van Gogh, who barely sold a painting during his life, is big business now.

In this post, I share my favorite pieces at the Van Gogh Museum, a must-visit for Amsterdam-bound artsy travelers, although make sure you reserve well in advance (more on that later).

The map below shows the location of the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam’s Museumplein, easily reached from the Centrum via trams 2 or 12. Also shown is the location of the Rijksmuseum next door, and the location of the charming apartment we stayed in on tiny Sint Nicholastraat in the lively Centrum area. Called Here’s Lucy, it’s highly recommended if you’re looking for a private one-bedroom apartment and a much better deal than any hotel I’ve ever stayed at in Amsterdam. It’s situated not far from the Central Station and the Damrak is pretty much perfect.

Message at the entrance to the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

Overview of the Van Gogh Museum

As the name suggests, the Van Gogh Museum is dedicated to exhibiting and celebrating the work of Vincent van Gogh, one of the world’s most beloved artists. It opened in 1973, three years after my first visit to Amsterdam and a year before my second visit to Amsterdam at the age of 18. I remember being so excited to tour the museum in 1974 when I was already a firm van Gogh fan.

The museum is the most visited museum in the Netherlands, and one of the top most-visited museums in the world. And no wonder! The collection is organized across four floors and includes pieces from several of van Gogh’s contemporaries, including Monet, Gauguin, Pissarro and others. The intention is to show van Gogh’s work in context and according to various themes, including self-portraits, early work, landscapes, and portraits.

Van Gogh provided hundreds of paintings and drawings over the course of just one decade, from 1880 to 1890. The collection at the Van Gogh Museum shows van Gogh as an artist intent on improving himself and his art while also being deeply engaged with the artistic developments of his day.

View of the Museum

A central atrium extends from the ground floor to the fourth floor and is dominated by a staircase and projections of details from van Gogh’s paintings that change regularly. The exhibition spaces run around three sides of the building.

Interior of the Van Gogh Museum with sunflowers projected

Self-Portraits of Van Gogh

The first room we entered featured a good collection of van Gogh’s self-portraits. I include two of my favorites. I like the contrast in how he handled the brushstrokes in these two works, and the intensity of his stare.

Self portrait of Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam — *Self-Portrait, 1887*

Van Gogh didn’t start painting seriously until he was 27 when he set to work to learn the rudiments of painting, mostly by studying the art of other artists. He was a great admirer of French 19th-century painters such as Jean-Francois Millet and Jules Breton who portrayed peasant life in the countryside.

Early Work

Most of van Gogh’s early work that he completed before he went to Paris and then finally to Provence use a very limited, even dreary palette. They have almost an Old Master feel to them.

Still Life with Open Bible

I particularly enjoyed a painting of his recently deceased father’s bible set next to van Gogh’s copy of La joie de vivre by Emile Zola–a ‘bible’ of modern life. The intention of the painting is to juxtapose the religious and traditional mores of his father with van Gogh’s more modern sensibilities. I was intrigued with how he rendered the open pages of the bible with rough brush strokes.

Bible and Zola painting by Van Gogh featured in The Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

The Potato Eaters

One of van Gogh’s most famous works from his early period is The Potato Eaters. The darkness of the painting and the almost grotesque roughness of the figures exemplifies the harshness, even despair, of peasant life. Van Gogh wrote that a true peasant painting should smell of bacon, smoke, and steaming potatoes.

Van Gogh in Paris

The gallery devoted to works that van Gogh created while living in Paris also include several works by his contemporaries, including Monet and Degas.

Nude Bathing by Degas

This nude by Degas is executed in numerous shades of pastel crayon and is one of several nudes that Degas exhibited in Paris and which van Gogh saw and greatly admired.

View Seen Through a Balcony by Gustave Caillebotte

Another work by one of van Gogh’s contemporaries is the painting of a Paris street seen through a wrought iron balcony by Gustave Caillebotte. I’ve seen several of Caillebotte’s paintings at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris and like his work.

View Seen Through a Balocny by Gustave Caillebotte

Café Table with Absinthe

And here’s a painting that van Gogh did while living in Paris. It depicts a glass of absinthe in a café. Already his palette is starting to lighten up with more pastel colors and looser brushstrokes.

Absinthe in a Paris Cafe by Vincent Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

Still Lifes – Red Cabbage and Garlic

I don’t associate van Gogh with still life paintings except, of course, for his flower paintings. This painting of red cabbages and onions is a revelation. I love the blue, red, and gold palette and the vibrancy of his brushstrokes. This still life is anything but still. Van Gogh was apparently intent on studying color contrasts in the painting–the complementary colors of yellow and blue reinforcing each other. He was well aware of color theory and how different color combinations work together to produce different effects and even emotions.

Cabbages and onions painting by Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

Portraits

Several of van Gogh’s most famous paintings are portraits of people he met and interacted with–regular people such as a bar maid, a postman, and his landlord. The Van Gogh Museum includes a few of his portraits, although not any of the super famous ones.

Woman in the Bar

This painting of a solitary woman in a Paris café is a great example of how van Gogh used regular people he encountered every day as his models. The look on her face is so relatable–staring into the middle distance, lost in her own thoughts. Is she annoyed? Pensive? Or just bored?

Woman in a bar painting by Van Gogh in the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

Van Gogh in the South of France

Van Gogh left bustling Paris for the south of France in late winter, arriving just as the trees were beginning to blossom.

The White Orchard

Here is one of three paintings he did not long after arriving in Arles. I’m entranced by the movement of the trees and the joyous freedom of the brushstrokes. It’s as if van Gogh’s been released from prison and poised on the edge of a whole new adventure, which indeed he was.

The Harvest

I felt very verklempt when I saw this painting, the very first van Gogh I ever saw and the first painting that launched me into a lifetime of loving art. I saw it at Expo 67 in Montreal when I was 11. A pretty uneventful childhood spent in Vancouver had not prepared me for modern art. I was blown away, first by The Harvest by van Gogh and then in the same exhibition at Expo 67 Lavender Mist by Jackson Pollock. It’s kinda no wonder I’ve ended up spending my life with a painter!

The Harvest makes me feel happy every time I see it. I’m not sure why. Perhaps it’s the bands of color and texture or maybe the balancing of the complementary colors of gold and blue. It just feels totally right. I look at it and I feel glad to be in the world.

The Harvest by Vincent Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

The Bedroom

How many times have I seen this iconic piece in reproductions and on mugs and mousepads, puzzles and pens? And yet seeing it in “real life” is still a thrill. There’s something so endearing about a man who paints his humble little bedroom and manages to infuse it with such warmth and loneliness. And again, it’s his use of complementary yellows and blues that makes the painting so satisfying to look at.

Sunflowers

And another iconic favorite! Composed of just three shades of yellow, this Sunflowers (he painted several versions) glows like lemons in the sun. The sunflowers are in various stages of dying and yet the painting is beguilingly cheerful.

The Yellow House

And here’s yet another study in blues and yellows! Gosh, he’s good. Van Gogh manages to capture heat shimmering against the walls of the houses in Arles. He was hoping to turn his yellow house into an artist colony but only Gauguin came, and only stayed two months. Poor Vincent led a rather solitary existence.

Japanese Influence

Van Gogh was a huge fan of Japanese art, as were many of his contemporaries, and several pieces were directly influenced by it.

Almond Blossoms

He painted this gorgeous, Japanese-print-inspired piece depicting almond blossoms against a blue sky to celebrate the birth of his nephew and namesake, Vincent–the son of his beloved brother, Theo. It’s almost abstract in its focus only on the blossoms and the sky with no other landscape elements. Van Gogh himself recognized the piece as one of his best–and he wasn’t wrong!

Almong Blossoms by Vincent Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

The Sower

And finally, here is The Sower, one of van Gogh’s smallest and yet most well-known paintings. It has so much movement and energy. I can sense the man purposefully planting his seeds, completely trusting that they will come up in the spring. In this painting, the sky is green instead of blue which casts an eerie glow over the scene, giving it an almost foreboding look, although the sower seems oblivious to anything beyond the sowing of his seeds.

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Practical Information

The Van Gogh Museum sells out many days in advance. Get your tickets online at least two weeks before you plan to travel to Amsterdam (possibly more during the busy summer months). Most visitors appear to get the audioguide which probably enhances the viewing experience. We did not, preferring to discuss the pieces as we looked at them. Every so often, you can discreetly eavesdrop on a guided tour. All of the ones I came across the morning we toured the museum were in English. Click one of the options below to purchase your ticket.

Conclusion

The Van Gogh Museum is well worth several hours of your time on even the shortest visit to Amsterdam. The only downside is that the world holds millions of van Gogh lovers and even with daily limits on visitors, a good chunk of them will be at the museum at the same time you are. It does get tiring dodging the crowds, particularly if you enjoy taking photos of the pieces like I do and also read all the captions. Most people are listening to audio guides and sometimes stand immobile for long periods in front of each painting. When several of them are congregated in front of a parituclarlty popular piece such as The Sunflowers, you’ll have to wait awhile to get your viewing turn.

But hey, it’s worth it. These are original paintings by Vincent Van Gogh! Artsy traveling doesn’t get much better. And when you’re done, you can tour no fewer than three gift shops (there may have been more) loaded to the gunnels with van Gogh schlock. On this trip I resisted, but I do own a very nice van Gogh pen that I purchased on a previous visit.

Have you visited the Van Gogh Museum? What are some of your favorites? Share in the comments below.

Spending an Amazing Day at Proyecto Asis Wildlife Refuge in Costa Rica

September 1, 2023October 10, 2024Activities, Central America, Destinations, Get Inspired carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 10th, 2024 at 09:31 pm

I highly, highly recommend spending a day at a wildlife refuge while traveling in Costa Rica. Just make sure you do your research and find a reputable one that places the animals’ best interests far above those of tourists.

We did quite a bit of searching online before selecting Proyecto Asis for our wildlife refuge day. Its numerous five-star reviews and assurances that it existed for the benefit of the animals in its care convinced us. A non-profit organization, Proyecto Asis provides a secure home to orphaned, abandoned, injured or otherwise neglected animals.

Overview of Proyecto Asis

The intention is to eventually release the animals back to the wild. Unfortunately, humans have damaged some of the animals so badly that they can never again live safely outside captivity. We learned all this during the course of the day, and it was fascinating!

Proyecto Asis is located about 45 minutes from La Fortuna in a beautiful area of farms and forests. If you’re driving, you can get there easily from La Fortuna, or you can ask Proyecto Asis to hire a driver for you (that’s what we did).

Established in 2002, Proyecto Asis is now an animal rescue center, Spanish school, and volunteer center.

Booking a Day at Proyecto Asis

We booked our day at the Proyecto Asis a few months before our visit to Costa Rica. Their website provided several options. We chose to do the sloth walk in the morning, the tour of the wildlife refuge in the afternoon, and an hour or two of volunteering at the end of the day.

I’m very glad we chose to stay for the whole day. Having that much time at the wildlife refuge gave us a good feel for the place and for the excellent work it does protecting animals. I could have happily spent another whole day there. Proyecto Asis has several programs to accommodate a range of interests, so if wildlife conservation is your thing, you’ll likely find some good options.

Getting to Proyecto Asis

Proyecto Asis has organized a transfer for us from the Tabacon Hot Springs Resort near La Fortuna. Promptly at 9:30 am, our driver Alfonso arrives to pick us up. He speaks good English and gets us to the refuge right on time. On the way, he pulls into a fruit stand and emerges holding two containers of freshly chopped papaya, pineapple, and watermelon that he presents to us.

How thoughtful! The fruit is achingly fresh and refreshing and way better than the fruit at the hotel breakfast.

Entrance to Proyecto Asis near La Fortuna in Costa Rica — Entrance to Proyecto Asis Wild Animal Rescue Center

Touring the Sloth Sanctuary

After arriving at Proyecto Asis, we are warmly greeted and our fruit stored for the day in the refrigerator. After spraying ourselves with bug repellant (in the parking lot, not in the forest, to avoid affecting the animals!), we join a family of four for a tour of the sloth sanctuary across the road. The sanctuary is home to many sloths who live in the wild. While there are informative plaques dotted around the pathways, the sanctuary is not a zoo.

Our guide Jonny shares his enthusiasm and extensive knowledge about sloths, stopping every so often during our walk to share information about the four different species of sloths. We don’t see any other wildlife, although Jonny tells us that the week before, he spotted a three-meter boa. I can’t say I’m sorry I didn’t see it too.

Seeing Sloths

Like Luis, our guide at the Arenal Night Walk (described in my post See Costa Rica in Two Packed and Perfect Weeks), Jonny carries a large telescope on a tripod. Without it, seeing any sloths at all beyond brown fur balls high in the trees will be impossible. Jonny also has a contraption to strap the iPhone to the telescope to take pictures and videos of the sloths.

Sloth hanging in a tree — A sloth hanging out in its natural habitat

Learning About Sloths

One of my favorite exhibits at the sloth sanctuary is of the massive prehistoric sloth—twenty feet high and nothing like his furry, bug-infested ancestor. This guy was anything but cute!

We learn that hundreds and hundreds of insects buzz around the sloths hanging out in the trees. Through the telescope, we can see so many that the sloths appear blurry. When a sloth does move, it is to scratch itself, which is hardly surprising.

Jonny tells us that baby sloths stay with Mama for five months. Mama then brings baby down to the ground and leaves it there to fend for itself because presumably by that time it knows how to be a sloth.

Hearing from the Guide

Here’s a clip of Jonny talking about sloths. His enthusiasm for his subject is infectious.

Our guide Jonny teaching us about sloths

In recent years, these creatures, which are actually not at all cuddly and even dangerous to get near as a result of the bugs infesting them, have become incredibly popular. Sloths are the unofficial mascot of Costa Rica. Their images are everywhere–from T-shirts to tea towels and every possible thing in between.

Unfortunately, their popularity has led to some so-called wildlife parks exploiting them to entertain tourists. However, the Costa Rican government is doing its best to crack down on questionable wildlife practices and is shutting down facilities that do not protect the animals.

The sloth walk is through very lush jungle that includes plenty of vibrant flowers. The air hums with insects and the heat and humidity are tropical but still comfortable for walking.

Tropical flowers at Proyecto Asis near La Fortuna in Costa Rica — Beautiful tropical flowers at the sloth sanctuary

Lunch at a Soda

After the sloth walk, we walk down the road to a soda, which is a small restaurant run by locals, to enjoy food that is hearty, typical, and cheap. We both enjoy excellent meals plus pineapple drinks for about 11000 colóns, which is less than $20 USD. It is a bargain for sure.

Excellent simple meal at a soda in Costa Rica — My tasty lunch at a soda

Wildlife Refuge Tour

After lunch, we walk back to Proyecto Asis for the wildlife refuge tour. I have no idea what to expect. To my surprise and delight, the next two hours fly by during probably the most interesting and comprehensive tour I’ve ever been on for anything, anywhere (and I’ve been on my fair share of tours over the years).

Much of the appeal of the tour is due to the personality and enthusiasm of Carlos, our guide. Numerous Trip Advisor reviews mention him by name and no wonder. The man is a gifted entertainer and so passionate about communicating and educating visitors about wildlife preservation and rehabilitation.

Beautiful blue parrot greets us as we enter the wildlife sanctuary to start the tour

Learning About Rescue Animals

All the animals at the Proyecto Asis Wildlife Refuge are rescued, the vast majority from homes where, tragically, they were kept as pets. It’s so sad to hear their stories. Carlos stops at every cage and introduces the animal, tells us its story, and describes how the staff at the refuge are rehabilitating the animal back into the wild. For some, the process will take years; for others, just a few months depending on the severity of injury and trauma the animal has suffered.

A few of the animals are so damaged that they will never be able to survive in the wild. At least they will live their lives securely and be well fed, with plenty of other animals to keep them company.

Carlos talks a lot about how animals in captivity often exhibit unnatural behaviors. Here he explains why parrot “talk”!

Carlos the guide is funny and informative!

Monkeys at Proyecto Asis

The animals in the refuge vary so you never know what you’ll see. On the day we visit, we see spider monkeys and white-faced monkeys, two of the five species of monkeys in Costa Rica. Some are wild monkeys that have been hit by cars and need to recover from their injuries before being returned to the forest. These are the luckier ones. At least they know how to live in the wild.

A monkey at Proyecto Asis — One of the monkeys hanging out

The saddest stories are of the poor creatures who were taken from the wild as babies and then kept chained up for years until finally their owners tired of them and dumped them at the refuge. These monkeys need to learn how to be monkeys again.

Carlos spends a lot of time describing the various ways in which they retrain the monkeys, always with the intention of preparing them for the wild. While they do name the monkeys to identify them, they do not interact with them as pets. They are wild animals—or soon to be—and the respect for them is palpable and so admirable.

Here Carlos explains about monkeys and their tails.

Carlos talking about monkeys

Carlos emphasizes over and over again how they do not want to make the animals playthings of humans, that they deserve to have their own lives as free and wild creatures. All behaviors that are not found in the wild are slowly changed, usually by the animals themselves. A monkey that arrives at the refuge not knowing how to swing by its tail because it never got the chance to learn while in captivity eventually learns by watching the other monkeys.

How Monkeys Become Pets

Carlos tells us how people get monkeys to sell as pets. They go into the forest and take baby monkeys. And how do they get a baby monkey? They kill the mother because if they don’t, the mother will attack. So, two lives are ruined, and for what? It’s heartbreaking, but also heartening because facilities like the Proyecto Asis are doing incredible work.

A monkey staring out of its cage at Proyecto Asis — A better life awaits this guy once he can be rehabilitated back to the wild where he belongs.

A Green Boa

While standing in front of one of monkey cages, we see this beautiful fellow slowly slithering past. He pays zero attention to us.

A snake goes on its slithery way

Tropical Birds at Proyecto Asis

In addition to the monkeys, the refuge takes care of a great variety of tropical birds, particularly toucans, macaws, and parrots. Almost all these birds were once pets. Most have come to the refuge without their tail feathers and some with broken wings, clipped wings, and worse. The birds are so damaged that rehabilitating them can take years. In fact, some of the birds will never be released.

A beautiful scarlet macaw at Proyecto Asis — The parrots are so spectacular

Macaws

Macaws are known to mate for life. When one dies, the other usually dies within weeks. But what self-respecting red or green macaw will mate with a hybrid? None.

We also learn that parrots are not monogamous. When a mate dies, the survivor quickly finds another mate. Interestingly, the parrots live about 40 years. The macaws with their one-mate-for-life live for about 100 years. One point for monogamy!

Carlos explains about how parrots that are separated can get depressed and then die.

A Hybrid Macaw

One of the most tragic stories is of a macaw that was bred from a red macaw and a green macaw. This combination is impossible in nature, because the two species of macaws live in different parts of Costa Rica and would never meet, never mind mate. But some horrible person did manage to mate a red one with a green one. The resulting offspring will forever live at the refuge because in the wild, it couldn’t survive in the area where the red macaws live and it couldn’t survive in the area where the green macaws live.

The hybrid is apparently worth a great deal of money because its plumage is so striking, although so, so wrong. Fortunately for the hybrid, it’s found a good home at Proyecto Asis well away from wildlife traffickers.

A hybrid macaw at Proyecto Asis — This hybrid was bred in captivity and will never be able to live in the wild

I love the toucans; and there are plenty at the refuge. They are so comical to watch, with their large beaks. It’s great to be able to get so close to them.

A toucan at Proyecto Asis — A toucan poses for a picture

Carlos never stops talking for two hours and everything he says is fascinating. I am riveted and inspired.

Volunteering at Proyecto Asis

After the wildlife tour (we also see three wild pigs, two caimans, and a morgay, which is a type of small wildcat), Carlos teaches Julia, me, and one other person from the refuge tour how to chop fruit and veggies to feed the monkeys.

Again, Carlos keeps up a steady stream of commentary about how the animals are fed, how he makes sure the alpha males don’t steal every portion, etc. I learn so much!

After we chop the fruit, Carlos leads us to the monkey enclosures, and we get to watch while the monkeys eat their dinner. But only some of the monkeys! We learn that the refuge doesn’t allow guests to watch the same monkeys eat every day. Guests are rotated between the various monkey cages so that all monkeys get at least a few days a week to eat in privacy. Apparently, privacy has been identified as an important need for the monkeys, which makes sense. I wouldn’t want people watching me eat all the time either.

Conclusion

At the end of our wonderful day at Proyecto Asis, a different driver picks us up and whisks us back to La Fortuna. We ask him to drop us in the town rather than taking us to Tabacon, which is about 7 kilometers away. For several hours, we enjoy wandering around the shops and then having a meal.

Sign up for a tour of a wildlife refuge when you visit Costa Rica. You won’t be disappointed! And check out my long post about my visit to Costa Rica: See Costa Rica in Two Packed and Perfect Weeks

Here are some other tours in Costa Rica:

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Free Your Inner Floral Artist at Stunning Villa Lena in the Tuscan Countryside

March 28, 2023October 15, 2024Activities, Artsy Sightseeing, Destinations, Get Inspired, Italy carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 15th, 2024 at 04:06 am

As an Artsy Traveler, one of the most rewarding things I recommend you do is sign up for an artsy retreat in a gorgeous location. You’ll get inspired while learning new techniques and meeting like-minded travelers.

I recently discovered the Villa Lena in Tuscany (and I LOVE Tuscany!) where you can do just that.

Imagine spending four days surrounded by spring flowers in the Tuscan countryside while you learn how to arrange and paint flowers with master artist Tanvi Pathare. From May 5th to 10th in 2023, Tanvi will be conducting four watercolor master classes that “will focus on an old and healing art form: the slow-paced appreciation of flowers, landscapes, and natural beauty.”

Tanvi Pathare floral painting workshop at Villa Lena in Tuscany

Sounds pretty awesome to me! I hooked up virtually with Tanvi and asked her some questions about her background as an artist and about her upcoming Flower Painting Retreat at the Villa Lena in Tuscany.

Interview with Tanvi Pathare

I interviewed Tanvi virtually (and hope one day to meet and learn with her in person!). Here is our interview.

Who is Tanvi Pathare?

Artsy Traveler: Tell us about your background as an artist–where you studied and some of your influences.

Tanvi Pathare: I was born in Mumbai, India. Since an early age, I was fascinated by the idea that you could create something beautiful with your hands; I enjoyed the craft element of it. I studied at the Sir J. J. School of Art in Mumbai, after which I moved to Florence in the search of more formal training as a realist painter.

I studied in the painting program at the Florence Academy of Art. After graduating from this program, I began teaching, and have been a Principal Instructor for drawing and painting at The Florence Academy ever since.

I look up to painters such as Rembrandt, Titian, Van Dyck, John Singer Sargent, Emil Carlsen, Henri Fantin-Latour, and Isaac Levitan to name a few.

Tanvi’s Inspiration

Artsy Traveler: What is it about floral painting that inspires you?

Tanvi Pathare: I feel my journey as a painter involves the constant delightful pursuit of studying the perfection of nature. Flowers are a wonderful source of inspiration, as they change, move, and grow. I find tracking their beauty through paint highly intriguing.

Tanvi Pathare painting in Tuscany — Tanvi teaching painting in Florence

Tanvi’s Favorite Flowers

Artsy Traveler: Do you have any favorite flowers that you particularly enjoy painting?

Tanvi Pathare: I truly enjoy painting roses and peonies. I think their overall forms are very intricate, and hence a good place to spend a few hours meditating over them.

Painting of peonies by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — Painting of peonies by Tanvi Pathare

Influences of Location

Artsy Traveler: You grew up in India and now live in Florence. How have these locations inspired you? What changed in your work when you moved to Europe?

Tanvi Pathare: I think having grown up in India, color (and a lot of it) was always a part of my visual aesthetic. Moving to Florence, I think my palette, became a bit more harmonized, though still having sharp color notes. My formal training in Florence helped me organize my ideas in a more cohesive way. Living in Florence, you are spoilt by the beauty around you. I think Mumbai and Florence will always be an integral part of my language as a painter.

Villa Lena Workshop

Artsy Traveler: As a workshop leader, what do you hope participants will take away from their experience painting with you?

Tanvi Pathare: hope that participants walk away with a new found appreciation of nature and flowers. Painting flowers is a beautiful way of truly appreciating their beauty because you spend much longer looking at them, versus just taking a picture of them and moving along..

White Roses by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — White Roses by Tanvi Pathare

Tanvi Pathare’s Artwork

Tanvi’s art is truly exquisite. Her website beautifully showcases her work with various subjects: portraits, landscapes, and still lifes (lots of flowers in this category).

Here is a selection of some of her works I particularly liked. I can definitely see how she is influenced by masters such as Titian and Rembrandt and also by 19th century painters such as Henri Fantin-Latour and John Singer Sargent.

Landscapes by Tanvi Pathare

Tanvi’s website includes several paintings of the Tuscan landscape. Artists have been captivated by this landscape for centuries and no wonder. Tanvi captures the light and motion with fluid strokes and an eye for strong composition.

Landscape painting by Tanvi Pathare — *The Valley in Lucca* by Tanvi Pathare

Painting of the Mediterranean by Tanvi Pathare — *The Mediterranean* by Tanvi Pathare

Still Lifes by Tanvi Pathare

I often gravitate to still life paintings when I tour art museums. I especially enjoy flower paintings, perhaps because my mother painted flowers almost until she passed at the age of 93. So flower paintings have been a part of my life forever. Also, although I’m not the best of gardeners, I love watching flowers grow! Tanvi’s flower paintings really spoke to me. She captures the exuberance of their colors and the whimsy of their forms spilling out of vases and scattering petals. I feel like I can reach out and pluck a rose just before it falls.

Wine and Roses by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — *Wine and Roses* by Tanvi Pathare

Of Peonies and Roses by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — *Of Peonies and Roses* **by Tanvi Pathare**

A Wisteria Dream by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — *A Wisteria Dream* by Tanvi Pathare

Still Life with Roses and Cherry Blossoms by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — *Still Life with Roses and Cherry Blossoms* by Tanvi Pathare

To see more of Tanvi’s work, check her website.

About the Flower Painting Workshop at Villa Lena

The Flower Painting Workshop at Villa Lena runs from May 5th to May 10th, 2023. You stay at the Villa Lena and can participate in many more activities in addition to flower painting.

When I read the description about what participants in Tanvi’s floral painting workshop at the Villa Lena are going to do during their stay, I wish I could hop on a plane and attend myself. Alas, not this Spring, although I plan to visit the Villa Lena when I’m in Tuscany in the Fall of 2023.

Here’s what you’ll enjoy during your floral painting workshop:

5 nights accommodation on site at Villa Lena
Full board – farm to table feasting.
4 master classes on painting floral compositions with Tanvi Pathare
Wine tasting
Afternoon tea & baking lesson with in-house pastry chef
Pasta cooking class
Olive oil tasting
Guided tours of the VL orto & flower farm, with flower cutting session
Daily Yoga
Access to Villa Lena facilities including 2 pools, 2 bars and beautiful common areas.

That sounds like an amazing way to spend some time in Tuscany! Interested?

Click here for more information and to book.

Full disclosure: If you follow this link and book a stay at the Villa Lena, I earn a small commission. Thank you!

Having a meal at the Villa Lena in Tuscany

Visit Villa Lena

Villa Lena is located in the heart of Tuscany between Pisa and Florence. The villa hosts retreats and offers agriturismo accommodation.

Aerial view of the pool at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — Villa Lena in Tuscany

View over the Tuscan countryside — Pool overlooking the Tuscany countryside at Villa Lena

Staying at the Villa Lena

The accommodations at Villa Lena are stylish and comfortable. I’m imagining myself sitting in front of that view doing some writing. I’ve always found Tuscany an incredibly inspiring place to work and can’t wait to get back there in Fall 2023.

view from a room at Villa Lena — View from a room at Vill Lena

Villa Lena Foundation

The villa is also affiliated with the Villa Lena Foundation, a not-for-profit organization dedicated to supporting international contemporary artists working in art, music, film, literature, fashion, and other creative disciplines, and fostering opportunities for multi-disciplinary dialogue. If you’re an artist, you can apply to do at residency at the Villa Lena Foundation. Applications open soon for residencies in 2024. Check the Villa Lena Foundation website for details.

Conclusion

Are you traveling to Tuscany this spring? Consider spending time at the Villa Lena learning flower painting with Tanvi Pathare. You’ll come away with a renewed appreciation of the beauty of nature and a painting or two that you’ve created.

Have you ever taken an art workshop or gone on a painting retreat? Share your experience and suggestions with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts about artists and artsy traveling in Tuscany:

National Gallery of Canada: Best Bets for the Artsy Traveler

March 5, 2023October 10, 2024Artsy Sightseeing, Canada, Destinations, Get Inspired, North America carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 10th, 2024 at 03:15 am

Every time I visit Ottawa, I take the opportunity to check out the National Gallery. It is truly a national treasure, and one of the reasons why I was very pleased when my niece told me they were moving to Ottawa with their family a few years ago. Now I have an excuse to visit Ottawa more often, which means I can spend more time at the National Gallery!

In this post, I share my top 20 favorite pieces. These are just the tip of the iceberg, chosen from room after glorious room of masterpieces in the Canadian collection. When you go, you’ll find many more pieces to marvel at.

Overview

The National Gallery of Canada is an excellent museum both inside and out. Outside, the striking glass structure built in 1988 echoes the shape of the library on Parliament Hill that it overlooks. Inside is a comprehensive collection of the best of the best of Canadian painting, particularly the Group of Seven and some notable moderns.

I visited the National Gallery of Canada with my daughter on a brilliant blue-sky day in early February after checking out Winterlude, eating my very first sugar shack maple-syrup lollilop (so delicious), and strolling past Parliament Hill (rated the #1 attraction in Ottawa on Trip Advisor!)

Carol Cram & Julia Simpson in front of the Parliament buildings in Ottawa, Canada — On Parliament Hill in Ottawa on a crystal-cold February day

Location of the National Gallery of Canada

The National Gallery is a short walk from Parliament Hill along the Rideau Canal and from the Byward Market. The map below shows the location of the gallery along with a few landmarks such as the Parliament Buildings, the Rideau Centre, and the Ottawa Art Gallery (also worth a visit).

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

Meet Maman

On your way into the gallery, you can’t help noticing the massive sculpture by Louise Bourgeois. Called Maman and created in 1999, the giant egg-carrying arachnid cast in bronze was inspired by Bourgeois’s own mom. If you don’t much like spiders, you might want to walk quickly past Maman, but if you’re not too bothered, linger a while and take some striking pictures!

Touring the Canadian Collection

On my most recent visit to the National Gallery of Canada, I entered the main Canadian collection from the moderns and traversed backwards to the colonial and pre-colonial eras. Usually, I start old and end new, but I found going backwards was a refreshing way to get a different perspective on the collection.

In addition to the large collection of Canadian art on the main floor, the National Gallery also includes a comprehensive collection of European and American art, and a large area devoted to contemporary work (most of which was kind of missable, to be honest).

Because I’m limiting this post to just 20 of my faves, I’m focusing only on the Canadian collection. Ready? Let’s start with the moderns.

Modern Canadian Art at the National Gallery

Modern art–as opposed to contemporary art–includes works from the mid 20th century until about the 1970s. I’ve limited myself to five faves, presented in the order in which I came across them and listed by artist name rather than the name of the work.

Norval Morrisseau (called Copper Thunderhead)

Norval Morrisseau is credited with creating a completely new art movement inspired by non-European aesthetic conventions and iconography. His work is a visual translation of an Anishnaabe worldview that is based on oral tradition, individual experience, and heritage.

I don’t think anyone could look at a painting by Morrisseau and not be enchanted. The vibrant colors and intriguing shapes, along with his original depictions of animals and people, are irresistible. His work is immediately recognizable and so compelling. This painting was the first I gravitated to when I entered the room.

Artist and Shaman Between Two Worlds by Norval Morrisseau (called Copper Thunderbird) at the National Gallery of Canada. — Norval Morrisseau (called Copper Thunderhead), Artist and Shaman between Two Worlds (1980)

Alex Colville

Alex Colville’s hyper-realistic paintings depict everday life in the Maritimes. This piece is one of my favorites (and probably Colville’s most famous) because it beautifully captures the feel of a sunny, breezy day in summer. Also, what is the woman looking at? Prince Edward Island? Another boat? Us? It’s enigmatic and yet relatable. The painting depicts Colville in the background and his wife Rhoda in the foreground holding the binoculars.

Art McKay

I was unfamiliar with Art McKay, although my husband, painter Gregg Simpson, has since told me that he met him back in the 1970s. I included his work simply because I really liked it. It reminds me of a Pollock but with more fluid movement. Apparently, McKay was inspired to pursue abstraction after meeting the American abstract painter Barnett Newman in 1959.

In this painting, the limited palette (black, white, blue) produces a compellingly energetic work that drew me in. I wanted to sit with it for a while, to feel the paint swirling around me like clouds seen from outer space.

Flat Blue, Flat White, Stove Enamel by Art McKay at the National Gallery of Canada — Art McKay, Flat Blue, Flat White, Stove Enamel (1960)

Jean Paul Riopelle

The National Gallery of Canada includes several paintings by Jean Paul Riopelle in its collection, which is good news for me because I’m a big fan of his work. This massive triptych is so fabulously joyous. Riopelle used a palette knife to apply paint directly to the surface using free and “automatic” gestures. He is known as the most ambitious artist in the Automatistes movement.

The title of the piece, “Pavane”, refers to the 16th century Spanish dance that is characterized by a stately and processional rhythm. And this painting fairly pulsates with rhythm.

I couldn’t do the piece justice with a single photograph and so took this video.

Jean Paul Riopelle, Pavane (1954)

Kathleen Munn

I had never heard of Kathleen Munn (1887-1974) whom I discovered was one of the leading modernist painters in Toronto in the 1920s. I’m happy to see that the National Gallery is including more women in its collection. This appealing piece reminds me of a Franz Marc with its colorful shapes and abstracted landscape elements.

Group of Seven & Friends at the National Gallery

The Group of Seven are justifiably famous for creating paintings that showed the Canadian landscape to the world back in the early 20th century. The Group of Seven (also known as the Algonquin School) includes Frank Carmichael, Lawren Harris, A. Y. Jackson, Frank Johnston, Arthur Lismer, J. E. H. MacDonald, and Fred Varley. Other artists associated with the group are A. J. Casson, Tom Thomson, and Emily Carr.

The National Gallery devotes several rooms to showcasing the work of these artists. I’ve selected my favorites in no particular order, except that I start with my fave, Lawren Harris.

Lawren Harris

Lawren Harris is hands-down my most beloved Group of Seven artist. I particularly appreciate his later work when he moved away from landscape and toward a spiritually-inspired form of abstraction.

The painting below is an example of his later work when he was focusing on producing abstract art using geometric compositions with layered planes.

Abstraction 1939 by Lawren Harris at the National Gallery of Canada — Lawren Harris, Abstraction (1939)

This piece is one of Harris’s most famous. It depicts the north shore of Lake Superior and was painted in 1926 when Harris traveled to the region with fellow Group of Seven artist A. Y. Jackson.

North Shore, Lake Superior by Lawren Harris at the National Gallery of Canada — Lawren Harris, North Shore, Lake Superior (1926)

Call me a tourist (an artsy tourist), but I couldn’t resist taking a selfie in front of this most iconic of paintings.

Carol Cram in front of North Shore, Lake Superior, a painting by Lawren Harris at the National Gallery of Canada — Geeking out at the National Gallery of Canada

J. E. H. MacDonald

Apparently, this painting by J. E. H. MacDonald was panned by the critics when it was first exhibited in the 1920s. One critic even compared the painting to a huge tomato salad. That seems a bit harsh! I was immediately drawn to this painting because of its exuberant depiction of fecundity. Some of the plants are decaying, some are blooming, and all are jumbled together in a glorious mess of in-your-face nature. It’s awesome!

A. Y. Jackson

How much more Canadian can this get–red maple leaves in front of a rushing river. The painting is even called “The Red Maple” and is based on a sketch from nature produced along the Oxtongue River in Algonquin Park.

Arthur Lismer

Is this iconically Ontario or what? To me, this depiction of Georgian Bay in a storm really captures the swirling clouds and choppy waves of the Great Lakes region. It really couldn’t be anywhere else in Canada!

F. H. Varley

Same with this piece, which also depicts a storm on Georgian Bay. The Group of Seven artists are credited with being quintessentially Canadian, but really, they are at heart Ontarians. As someone born and bred in British Columbia, I don’t particularly resonate with the Ontario landscape. However, I can appreciate it and also how its depiction by the Group of Seven artists showcased a corner of Canada’s vast landscape to the world.

Franklin Carmichael

Carmichael is my second favorite Group of Seven artist after Lawren Harris; I even have a print of one of his paintings in my office. See how he smashes together landscape elements to produce a visual earthquake for the viewer. You can feel the seismic energy of the rain, the snow, and the wind in his paintings.

Tom Thomson

Although he was not formally considered a member of the Group of Seven, the paintings by Tom Thomson are pretty much synonymous with most people’s idea of Group of Seven landscapes. The National Gallery includes a large display of several dozen of Thomson’s small canvases. This video gives a good idea of the variety and quality of these exquisite gems.

Small paintings by Tom Thomson

Emily Carr

The other most famous artist who was not part of the Group of Seven, but definitely associated with them, is BC’s own Emily Carr. The National Gallery includes several of her pieces. Most depict the brooding West Coast rainforest–a landscape I definitely resonate with since it’s the one I see outside my window as I write this! A massive cedar tree is directly in my line of sight. It doesn’t take much imagination to see it as Carr did–a swirling, living mass of green energy thrusting skyward. Here are two of her pieces that I particularly liked.

Totems Emily Carr at the National Gallery of Canada — Emily Carr, Totems (1930)

Indigenous Art

The National Gallery does a good job of including several fabulous pieces of indigenous art in the collection of paintings by artists of mostly European descent. Here are two pieces I admired.

Raven Sun Transformation Mask by Marven G. Tallio — Marven G. Tallio, Raven Sun Transformation Mask (1966)

Spirit of the Forest - Mother Nature by John Marston (Qap-u-luq) at the National Gallery of Canada — John Marston (QAP’U’LUQ), Spirit of the Forest – Mother Nature (2013)

Other Notable Pieces

While the stars of the show at the National Gallery are the paintings by the Group of Seven and the pieces of indigenous art, I saw some new-to-me pieces worth mentioning.

Here is yet another depiction of Lake Superior (there are many of them in the National Gallery!), which I liked because of the way in which the houses are all jumbled together in front of a massive landscape and because it’s painted by a woman artist I’d never heard of, Yvonne McKague Housser. She painted this piece just a few years after Lawren Harris made the Lake Superior region famous.

Rossport, Lake Superior by Yvonne McKague Housser at the Natoinal Gallery of Canada — Yvonne McKague Housser, Rossport, Lake Superior (1929)

This piece from the 19th century of loggers clear-cutting the area where I now live resonated because of the interesting way in which the artist depicted the figures next to the logs. The painting catches one moment during the workday. No one is posing; no one cares about posing. They are just getting on with a brutal day’s labor.

Logging by George A. Reid at the National Gallery of Canada — George A. Reid, Logging (1888)

Yes, I’m a sucker for a good still life, and I particularly liked this piece by Quebec artist Joseph Légaré. Apparently, it’s the first still life executed in Canada, although I’m not sure how anyone can be 100% sure of that! Anyway, it’s a nice painting.

Still-Life with Grapes by Joseph Legare at the National Gallery of Canada — Joseph Légaré, Still-life with Grapes (1826)

And Finally – A Shout-Out to the Gift Shop

I love a good museum gift shop and the one at the National Gallery of Canada is right up there in my top ten all-time favorite museum gift shops. There’s a wonderful selection of quality gift items, many with indigenous designs and the assurance that the money actually goes to the artists. Hopefully, that is true because in my last two trips to the National Gallery (February 2023 and December 2021), I purchased several indigenously-designed items there.

Definitely check it out after you’ve toured the National Gallery. I dare you to leave without buying something!

Practical Information

The National Gallery of Canada is located at 380 Sussex Drive in Ottawa (see #1 on the map at the beginning of this post). It is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm (8 pm on Thursday), and closed on Monday. Adults cost $20; seniors $18; and 24 and under & students $10. Children under 11 are free.

Tours & Tickets in Ottawa

Here are some guided bus tours of Ottawa and options for tickets to some of Ottawa’s major museums with Tiqets.com to check out:

Looking for a good walking tour? I recommend GuruWalks. Here are the walks available in Ottawa:

Conclusion

The National Gallery of Canada’s permanent collection is stunning and extremely safe–some would say conservative. The focus is on the crowd-pleasing paintings by the Group of Seven (and hey, I was pleased), but there are very few paintings by more recent Canadian artists. Still, it’s a great collection and worth a few hours of your time when visiting Ottawa, a city with its fair share of excellent museums.

Have you visited the National Gallery of Canada? What are some of your favorites? Share in the comments below.

15 Must-Dos in Copenhagen for the Artsy Traveler

March 3, 2023October 4, 2024Activities, Denmark, Destinations, Get Inspired carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 4th, 2024 at 03:34 am

Put Copenhagen on your list of must-see European cities. It’s small enough to tour in a few days and large enough to reward a longer stay.

I stayed for eight nights in Copenhagen in September 2022, while my husband and partner-in-travel Gregg Simpson had an exhibition of his paintings at Galleri Bredgade 22 close to the picturesque Nyhavn area of the city. I could have easily filled another eight days. Even so, I was able to pack a lot into the time I had available.

This post highlights my top fifteen sites and experiences.

Get Your Bearings

Before starting, check the map below. Most of my suggested sites in Copenhagen city itself are within walking distance of each other. The last four sites are outside Copenhagen and easily accessible by train.

Places mapped by Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

#1: Get the Copenhagen Card

The first item on my list isn’t a site but rather the card you’ll need to tour most of the rest of my recommendations. The Copenhagen Card is truly a bargain. With it, you can get into just about every museum and notable site in the city and use it on all the subways, busses, and trains in the Capital Region (a very large swathe of land that includes Copenhagen and most sites within an hour train ride).

You can purchase the Copenhagen Card for varying lengths. I purchased a five-day card which was perfect and allowed me to see almost everything I wanted to explore.

To find out if it’s worth your while to purchase a Copenhagen Card, choose the sites and museums you want to visit, check their prices online, and then compare them with the cost of the card. I pretty much guarantee you’ll find that the Copenhagen Card will be worth its price.

Click the image below to purchase the Copenhagen card.

#2: Take a Bike Tour

A good idea is to take a bike tour on the first day or two you’re in Copenhagen. That way, you’ll get the “lay of the land” while also ticking off a few of the most touristy sites such as the Little Mermaid (you only need to see her once!), some of the parks, and Nyhavn.

I joined a small bike tour for a 90-minute joy ride through Copenhagen and loved every minute of it. Copenhagen is made for cycling. You have your own lanes and your own traffic lights, and everyone knows and obeys the rules.

Meeting the Copenhagen Bike Tour

I met the tour at the bike racks in Kongen Nytorv (#2 on the map above), the large square not far from where we were staying in Nyhavn (see my review of our fabulous apartment). Our guide showed us the basic hand signals for turning left and right and stopping, assigned each of us in the group of six people a large and sturdy bike, reviewed how to change gears, and then boom, we were off. Helmets? What helmets?

Carol Cram standing with a bike in Copenhagen prior to going on a bike tour — Meeting the bike tour in Kongens Nytorv near Nyhavn

Riding around Copenhagen on a bike makes you feel like a real Copenhager. Everyone cycles here–young and old. Even if you’re not much of a cyclist, or out of practice (as I was), you’ll have no trouble cycling in flat Copenhagen. I think I changed gears once to go up a very slight incline in the area near the Little Mermaid.

King’s Garden

We rode for about ten minutes to the King’s Garden (Kongens Have – #5 on the map), where our guide gave us a quick history of Denmark and Copenhagen. He was a font of knowledge. While you could rent a bike and explore Copenhagen on your own, I recommend taking a tour. You’ll learn a lot, and also get the chance to chat with some fellow travelers.

The King’s Garden includes an attractive castle surrounded by a moat and plenty of tree-lined paths. In September, locals were hanging out on the lawns enjoying the sunshine.

Nyboder

We rode next to Nyboder (#6 on the map), an area of historic row houses that housed sailors in the 18th century. Our guide shared interesting information about the hard life of sailors and their families back in the day.

We then checked out both of Copenhagen’s mermaids. To read about them, see #3 below.

Gefion Fountain

A highlight for me was hearing the story attached to the Gefion Fountain (#10 on the map), which we rode to after visiting with the mermaids. The fountain depicts the mythical story of the creation of the island of Zealand upon which Copenhagen is situated. According to legend, the Swedish king Gylfi promised Gefjun (a goddess) that she could have all the land she could plow in a night. Well, being a bit of a resourceful lass, Gefjun turned her four sons into oxen and plowed out a Zealand-shaped chunk of land which was then thrown into the Danish sea to become the Zealand we know today. She left behind a hole that is now Lake Mälaren in Sweden.

What a woman!

Royal Palace & Opera House

We rode to a location where we could see both Royal Palace (#14) and the fabulous modern opera house (#15) directly across the harbor. Our guide talked a lot about the many environmental innovations Denmark is pioneering, including exciting new ways of recycling trash and using wind energy. Denmark is an inspiration for the rest of the world.

He also talked about the royal family and Queen Margrethe II who was celebrating her 50-year jubilee in 2022. In fact, several celebrations were going on while we were in Copenhagen. Apparently, the royal family are very well liked in Denmark, the Queen in particular. One of her many accomplishments is illustrating The Lord of the Rings, much to the admiration of Tolkein himself.

Royal opera house in Copenhagen — Opera house

Nyhavn

The bike tour ended in Nyhavn (#1) where our guide provided us with plenty of interesting commentary about living in Copenhagen and the remarkable social success story that is Denmark. Yes, there are still problems, but overall, Denmark is having enviable success compared to most other countries when it comes to solving many of the 21st century’s most pressing social and environmental challenges.

In the photo below, you can see the building where we stayed. It’s the dark orange one between the brown and tan buildings to the right of the guide.

Guide standing in front of Nyhavn harbor in Copenhagen — Our knowledgeable guide telling us about Nyhavn

You can choose from plenty of bike tours and even book a private tour. Here are some options:

#3: Check out BOTH Mermaids

Yes, there are two–the famous one in the harbor that is mobbed with tourists, and the not-so-famous one about ten minutes away. Called the Genetically Modified Mermaid (#7), the statue is blissfully lonely. When I visited with the bike tour (see above), we were the only people checking her out.

Her more conventionally depicted sister mermaid sits in the harbor and basks in the glow of a thousand cell phones. Getting a picture of her requires some judicious zooming in to avoid the crowds.

The bronze statue of the Little Mermaid (#9) by sculptor Edvard Eriksen is inspired by the 1837 fairy tale by beloved Danish author Hans Christian Andersen. The statue has reached iconic status worldwide and is a must-stop on every tour itinerary. It’s a pleasant place to pause for a few minutes to enjoy views of Copenhagen’s massive harbor.

Genetically modified mermaid - a statue of a mermaid in Copenhagen — Genetically modified mermaid

Statue of the Little Mermaid in Copenhagen Harbor — Famous mermaid

#4: Take Pictures in Nyhavn

We stayed in a beautiful two-bedroom apartment in Nyhavn (#1) and I’m so glad we did. The area was once very sketchy–think rough pubs and brothels–but after major renovations and rebranding, Nyhavn has become one of the most recognizable regions in all of Copenhagen. In fact, nowadays you’d be hard-pressed to find any tourist info about Denmark that didn’t include a picture of Nyhavn.

The colorful buildings, old ships, and numerous sidewalk cafes are irresistible. I spent quite a bit of time taking photographs at various times of day to capture the shifting light.

According to the guide on my bike tour (see above), the restaurants in Nyhavn are overly touristy and over-priced. He has a point. We ate at one and yes, it was on the pricy side, which is saying something in pricy Copenhagen. But the setting really can’t be beat, so at least stop at one of the sidewalk cafes to enjoy a drink and watch the world go by.

Here’s a selection of photos from different images and in different lights of what must be the world’s most photogenic harbor.

#5: Eat Smørbrød

This is not optional! When you visit Copenhagen, you have to eat several pieces of smørbrød. These hearty, open-faced sandwiches consist of rugbrod rye bread heaped up with a dizzying array of fresh and artfully displayed ingredients. Your biggest challenge will be deciding which smørbrød to choose.

They are surprisingly filling. I found that two or three were plenty for a good lunch. You’ll find smørbrød at many restaurants around Copenhagen and beyond. Also check out cafes in places outside Copenhagen where you’re likely to find less expensive but just as fabulous smørbrød. Here are two plates of smørbrød–one enjoyed in Nyhavn on our first day and the other for a lovely dinner in Tivoli Gardens.

Two Smørbrød on a plate, a specialty in Copenhagen — Smørbrød for a snack

Four Smørbrød on a plate in Copenhagen — Smørbrød for dinner

#6: Tour the Design Museum

The Designmuseum Danmark (AKA the Danish Design Museum – #8) was the first museum we visited in Copenhagen and it set a high bar! It’s a wonderful place with interesting and gorgeously displayed exhibits and plenty of commentary in Danish and English. You could spend all day there and still want to come back for more.

Even if you’re not “into” design, carve some time out of your Copenhagen stay to visit the Design Museum. Everyone sits on chairs and uses cutlery–and both these things, along with a ton more items we use every day, are featured in the context of design. The museum tells the story of Danish design of everything from furniture to objects to textiles to cutlery to posters, and a lot more.

The many rooms in the Designmuseum Danmark are arranged around themed exhibitions. For the most up-to-date information about current exhibitions, see the museum’s website.

Display of modern furniture at the Danish Design Museum

Check out my post A Trio of Must-See Museums in Copenhagen for a more comprehensive description of what you’ll see at the DesignMuseum Danmark.

#7: Visit the Danish National Museum

Called the Nationalmuseet (#12), this major museum is also worth several hours of your time on even a short trip to Copenhagen. We particularly enjoyed the prehistory collection (once of the best-displayed and best-explained I’ve ever seen) and the large exhibition devoted to the Vikings. They were a busy lot, as you’ll find out.

The museum is quite vast. Go early in the morning when you have energy and pace yourself! What I enjoyed the most was the cleverness of the displays. Everything is presented so artfully, which is fitting for a country famed for its design chops. And fortunately, as with the Design Museum, all the displays are accompanied by excellent commentary in both Danish and English.

Check out my post A Trio of Must-See Museums in Copenhagen for a more comprehensive description of what you’ll see at the Nationalmuseet.

#8: Visit Tivoli Gardens at Night

Tivoli Gardens (#11) is an amusement park right smack in the middle of downtown Copenhagen. It’s one of the sites included with the Copenhagen Card, which is a good thing because I don’t think it’s worth the fairly steep admission price. Mind you, we’re not into rides and midway games–both of which take up a fair chunk of the park.

That said, go in the early evening to stroll through the beautifully designed gardens and view the pavilions, have dinner at a restaurant overlooking one of the bodies of water, and then marvel at the fabled lights. It’s a beautiful place to spend an evening.

We enjoyed an excellent meal at a restaurant overlooking the pirate ship. The server kindly took our picture.

Carol and Gregg sitting at an outdoor table in Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen — Dinner al fresco at Tivoli Gardens

After dinner, we checked out the famous pagoda, listened to the screamsof the people braving the rides, and then called it a night.

#9: Go to a Concert at the DR Koncerthuset

We love going to classical music concerts when we travel in Europe and so got tickets for a concert at the DR Koncerthuset (#13), an ultra-modern, acoustically stunning hall a short metro ride from the center of Copenhagen.

We had perfect seats close to the front and in line with the piano keyboard (always a priority for me!). The concert included a Rachmaninoff concerto that knocked our socks off.

As soon as you know when you’ll be visiting Copenhagen, check out what concerts are on and get tickets in advance. The DR Koncerthuset website is in English and Danish.

#10: Wander the Pedestrian Streets

Copenhagen was one of the first (if not the first) European city to designate certain streets in the center of the city as “pedestrians only” in the early 1960s. The main street is called Strøget (#4). At 1.1 km, it’s still one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets and stretches from City Hall Square to Kongens Nytorv. You’ll find a lot of stores lining both sides–both budget chains and designer shops.

I remember being amazed by the Strøget when I visited Copenhagen in 1970. I’d never seen a pedestrianized street like it. My mom and I spent several happy hours wandering up and down it, shopping for Danish souvenirs and eating smørbrød. The name Strøget also refers to several other streets in the area including Frederiksberggade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet and Østergade and Nytorv square, Gammeltorv Square and Amagertorv Square.

Take your time and explore the many streets in the area while soaking up the very Danish vibe.

#11: Eat Lakrids by Bülow

I had never heard of Lakrids and now I’m hooked! Fortunately for my waistline, they are not easy to find in Vancouver. However, the next time I visit Copenhagen, I’m stocking up.

What is Lakrids by Bülow? Only the most scrumptious, luscious, and luxurious licorice I’ve ever tasted. It is a premium brand with a premium price, but oh-so-worth-it for the licorice lover. The delectable balls come in a dizzying variety of colors and flavors. I only bought one tube and have regretted it ever since!

I discovered a beautiful display of Lakrids by Bülow in the very posh Magasin du Nord in an iconic building on the Kongens Nytorv, the central square very close to Nyhavn where we were staying.

Even if you’re not a licorice lover, go to the Magasin du Nord (#3), try a free sample of the licorice bites, and then check out the rest of the store.

The fashionable department store dates back to 1869 and covers five floors in addition to the basement that houses the food market. Here, you’ll find a fabulous selection of fresh and prepared food that reminded me of the Harrods food floor in London. It’s a great place to pick up ingredients for a meal if your accommodations have a kitchen.

I spent a fair bit of time exploring the household goods and posh Danish souvenirs (not the plastic variety sold in the souvenir shops, but the really nice, Danish design variety). Magasin du Nord is the place to pick up exquisitely designed candlesticks, platters, cutlery, Danish china, and the like. I could have spent a lot of money there! Actually, I did spend a lot of money there…

Exploring the Capital Region of Denmark

After enjoying Copenhagen, venture outside the city where you’ll find plenty to do and see. You’ll also still save money with the Copenhagen Card on both the transportation and at the sites themselves.

Here’s a map of the Capital Region of Denmark to orient yourself. Each of the four destinations listed is no more than 40 minutes by train from Copenhagen. If you have lots of energy, you could visit Hamlet’s Castle (Helsginor), the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art and Frederiksborg Castle in one full day and then reserve another day for the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde.

Trip map created using Wanderlog, a travel planner on iOS and Android

#12: Visit “Hamlet’s Castle”

Venture outside Copenhagen to visit Kronborg Castle (#1 on the Danish Capital Region Map above) in Helsingor, about a 40-minute train ride north. Both the castle and the train fare are covered by the Copenhagen Card.

Kronborg Castle is the setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet, although Shakespeare never saw it. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the castle is worth a visit to tour its many rooms, learn about Danish history, and enjoy views over the water to Sweden from its narrow windows. Also spend time exploring the charming little town of Helsingor. Although there’s lots for the tourist to see, the town doesn’t feel touristy. It feels very, well, Danish.

Check out more information about Kronborg Castle and Helsingor in my post Three Recommended Day Trips from Copenhagen.

#13: Visit the Louisiana Gallery of Modern Art

Consider visiting the Louisiana Gallery of Modern Art (#3 on the map above) on the same day you visit Helsingor. The two places are very close to each other (with the Louisiana Gallery just south of Helsingor) and together make for a perfect day trip out of Copenhagen.

The Louisiana Museum is one of Europe’s most renowned museums of modern art. For me, the stars of the place are the outdoor sculptures artfully arranged in the magnificent natural setting overlooking the North Sea and Sweden. Go on a day when the weather is clear so you can fully appreciate the views.

Sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Check out more information about the Louisiana Gallery of Modern Art in my post Three Recommended Day Trips from Copenhagen.

#14: Visit Frederiksborg Castle

Another good day trip out of Copenhagen is to Frederiksborg Castle (#2). It’s an enormous place, very atmospherically located in a large lake. You can even take a launch (cost covered by the Copenhagen Card!) from the little town of Frederiksborg to the castle (or take a bus from the train station). The castle itself is quite sumptuous and very large. Wear your walking shoes!

After touring the castle, spend some time in the landscaped gardens before returning to the charming little town of Frederiksborg for lunch.

Carol Cram on the little launch crossing the lake to Fredericksborg in Denmark with the Fredericksborg Castle in the background — On the little launch crossing the lake to Frederiksborg with the castle in the background

Check out more information about Frederiksborg Castle in my post Three Recommended Day Trips from Copenhagen.

#15: Visit Roskilde

The town of Roskilde, about thirty minutes west of Copenhagen (train fare covered by the Copenhagen card!), is home to the Viking Ship Museum (#4). The town was once the capital of Denmark and fairly oozes history, particularly if you’re into Vikings (and who isn’t?).

Full disclosure–I didn’t get time to visit Roskilde on my recent trip to Copenhagen. However, it’s definitely on my list which is why it’s included in this post. The Viking Ship Museum is built around the five original Viking ships from Skuldelev that are part of a global story about ships, people, and things on voyages. The focus of the museum is to tell the story of how the Vikings changed the world with their ships.

For more information about the Viking Ship Museum, check out the website.

Copenhagen Tours

Check out Tiquets.com for good tours of Copenhagen and the surrounding area.

Copenhagen Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Copenhagen!

Conclusion

Copenhagen is a gem of a city. It’s compact, clean, easy to navigate, and friendly. It doesn’t have a bustling, big-city vibe. Instead, it feels like a place where people are happy to live. If you want to hang out with a lot of very healthy-looking people who all seem to ride bikes and love the outdoors and you like great museums and artfully presented food, then Copenhagen should be your next European destination.

Have you visited Copenhagen? Share your suggestions in the comments below.

Here are some more posts about Copenhagen:

Three Recommended Day Trips from Copenhagen

January 22, 2023October 15, 2024Artsy Sightseeing, Denmark, Destinations, Get Inspired carolcram 1 Comment

Last updated on October 15th, 2024 at 03:52 am

Consider alloting time during your stay in Copenhagen for taking day trips. You’ll find plenty to see and do in the city to fill at least three days, but after that, it’s time to venture farther afield. Your Copenhagen Card (see more below) is your best friend. Use it to take trains all over the greater Capital region and to visit some of Denmark’s premier castles.

In this post, I focus on three day trips from Copenhagen: Frederiksborg Castle, Kronborg Castle, and the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. Each site is a thirty-to-forty-minute train journey from Copenhagen.

Armed with a Copenhagen Card (a must-buy – see below), I spent three half-days of my week-long stay in Copenhagen venturing outside the city limits to sample three Artsy Traveler experiences.

Location of Recommended Day Trips

The map below shows the locations of the three recommended day trips. You could possibly see all three in one day if you’re traveling by car, but that might be overkill! I suggest taking just one trip a day so you have time to enjoy the locations and still get back to Copenhagen in time to take in one or two more local sights and then enjoy a leisurely dinner.

On the map below, #1 is the Copenhagen Hovedbanegården, aka the Central Station. You’ll be catching the trains from here.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

Frederiksborg Castle

The largest Renaissance complex in the Nordic region is Frederiksborg Castle (#2 on the map above) in Hillerød, about 30 minutes outside Copenhagen. The castle is one of the must-do day trips from Copenhagen, particularly if the weather is fine. Set in a lake and surrounded by gardens, the castle is extremely photogenic.

Carol Cram in front of Fredericksberg Castle near Hillerød outside Copenhagen - a perfect day trip from Copenhagen — Carol arrives at Frederiksborg Castle during her day trip from Copenhagen

Entrance to Fredericksberg Castle near Hillerød outside Copenhagen — Walked over the bridge to the entrance to Frederiksborg Castle

Inside the castle is room after sumptuous room. Wear your walking shoes–it’s a big place! I toured the castle fairly quickly because I wanted to get outside to view the castle from the lake. However, if you’re interested in Danish history, the castle could easily fill an hour or two of your time.

Here’s a selection of a few of the rooms and displays I wandered through.

Sumptuous royal bedroom in Fredericksberg castle — One of many sumptuous royal apartments

An 18th-century footman is happy to pose for photos

Outside the castle, you can tour the gardens and then catch the cute little launch that goes from a dock near the castle across the lake to the town of Hillerød. The cost of the launch (along with the castle entrance and all busses and trains) is included with the marvelous Copenhagen Card.

Launch that takes guests across the lake to the town of Hillerød — Cost of the ferry across the lake is included with the Copenhagen card

Carol Cram on the launch across the lake at Fredericksborg Castle during her day trip from Copenhagen — On the launch across the lake at Frederiksborg Castle

As I was crossing the lake, the sun came out with magical results.

Fredericksberg Castle on a sunny day and reflected in the lake - perfect for a day trip from Copenhagen — Fredericksborg Castle

Hillerød

For your day trip to Frederiksborg Castle, you’ll catch the train from Copenhagen to Hillerød and then from the station, take a bus or walk to the castle. Many of the people getting off the train are also tourists and heading for the castle, so it’s pretty easy to just follow the crowd to the bus stop. If in doubt, ask someone who looks like a local. I never encountered anyone in Denmark who did not speak excellent English.

After touring the castle, you can either take the bus back to Hillerød or, like I did, catch the launch across the lake. It docks at Hillerød. Wander through the attractive little town, grab a coffee in the central square, browse a few shops, and then walk to the train station for the journey back to Copenhagen. The entire trip to the castle and Hillerød lasts only a few hours unless you are a super-fan and want to examine every part of the castle open to the public and also walk the miles of pathways in the formal gardens.

The charming town of Hillerød with the castle across the lake

Signposts in Hillerød leading me back to the station

Frederiksborg Castle Practical Information

Frederiksborg Castle is open every day throughout the year from 10:00 to 17:00 April to October and 11:00 to 15:00 November to March. Admission is 90 DKK for adults, but you can use your Copenhagen Card (see below for details). The museum is located in Hillerød, a 40-minute ride on S-train line A from Copenhagen. From Hillerød Station you can walk to the castle (View the route here) or take the local busses 301 (direction: Ullerød) or 302 (direction: Sophienlund) and get off at the stop “Frederiksborg Slot”.

Kronborg Castle

Located on the sound between Sweden and Denmark about 40 minutes north of Copenhagen, Kronborg Castle (#3 on the map above) and the charming town of Helsingor are both great choices for a day trip from Copenhagen. In fact, if you only have time for one of the three day trips presented in this post, I’d choose Kronborg. While the castle itself is not as large and imposing as Frederiksborg Castle, the town of Helsingor has more to offer.

Also, if you’re a Hamlet fan, then you have to visit Kronborg Castle, which was the setting for Shakespeare’s play. It’s easy to imagine Prince Hamlet wandering through the lofty halls of the castle and looking out to sea, brooding and plotting revenge.

If you have a car, you can even zip across on the ferry to Helsingborg in Sweden and from there carry on north to Gothenburg and even Stockholm.

Touring Kronborg Castle

Kronborg Castle towers above the narrow sound between the coasts of Denmark and Sweden. It’s a Renaissance castle complete with spires and towers, and is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Courtyard inside Kronborg Castle, a great destination for a day trip from Copenhagen — Courtyard instide Kronborg Castle

Inside the castle are rooms full of period furnishings. The prevailing feeling is a bit starker than Frederiksborg Castle. It’s worth touring, but doesn’t require a lot of time.

Costumed guide talks about food at Kronborg Castle

The views from the castle over the sound to Sweden on the far shore are lovely on a clear day. Check out the clouds!

View from Kronborg Castle toward Sweden during a day trip from Copenhagen — View from Kronborg Castle toward Sweden

Kronborg Castle Practical Information

Kronborg Castle is open daily from 10:00 to 17:00 May to October and from 11:00 to 15:00 November to April. Admission is 125 DKK for adults, but you can use your Copenhagen Card (see below for details). The castle is located in Helsingør, a 40-minute train ride from Copenhagen. From the station, you can walk about ten minutes to the castle.

Helsingør

I enjoyed wandering around Helsingør. It’s not at all touristy; the vast majority of the people out soaking up the sunny September day were locals. The harbor area with its ships and Maritime Museum are worth lingering in during your day trip from Copenhagen.

Also view murals on buildings throughout the town. I particularly enjoyed seeing the one of Hamlet holding Yorick’s skull.

Colorful mural of in Helsingør in the 16th century — Colorful mural of Helsingør in the 16th century

Close-up of Hamlet in the prow of a ship in a mural

I stopped for lunch on a pedestrian street full of outdoor cafes and enjoyed three scrumptious Smørrebrød – open-faced sandwiches, along with a strong and satisfying Danish beer.

As in many restaurants that serve Smørrebrød, I was invited to go check out a mouth-watering display of the tasty sandwiches and then choose the number and kind I wanted. Each of the three I chose was a winner.

Three tastey smørrebrød for lunch in Helsingør — Smørrebrød for lunch in Helsingør

I happened to arrive in Helsingør when locals were celebrating the Golden Jubilee of Queen Margrethe. There were lots of Danish flags and a parade!

Danish flag as part of celebrations of the Golden Jubilee of the Queen — Danes celebrating the Golden Jubilee of the Queen

Parade for the Golden Jubilee in Helsingør

A good sightseeing strategy if you want to see both Kronborg Castle and the Louisiana Museum of Art on a day trip from Copenhagen is to do both on the same day. They are quite close together in the same geographical area (north of Copenhagen). In fact, you take the same train from Copenhagen. Go to Kronborg Castle first and then backtrack to the Louisiana Museum or go the other way around. Bear in mind that you’ll find more and cheaper lunch options in Helsignor. At the Louisiana Museum, you only have the fancy restaurant at the museum (excellent food but not cheap!).

Frederiksborg & Kronborg Day Tours

You can choose to take a guided day trip from Copenhagen that includes both Frederiksborg Castle and Kronborg Castle. This tour also goes to Roskilde where you’ll tour the Viking Ship Museum.

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (#4 on the map) is about a 30-minute train ride north of Copenhagen and is world-renowned as one of Europe’s best modern art museums. I’ll confess that I found the exhibitions a tad underwhelming. However, the setting of the museum on the North Sea and the many outdoor sculptures are fabulous and well worth the trip.

Founded by Knud W. Jensen to house Danish modern art, the museum opened in 1958. Within a few years, the focus shifted from featuring predominantly Danish art to becoming an international museum that featured internationally renowned artists.

Check what exhibitions are on, but even if they don’t appeal, visit the museum anyway. It makes for a lovely morning out from Copenhagen. You reach it by train (covered by the Copenhagen Card) followed by a pleasant 20-minute stroll along a suburban road to the museum.

After visiting the exhibitions, head outside where the real stars of the museum are located. Here’s a selection of sculptures dotted all around the large property.

Modern sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art with a view toward Sweden — View toward Sweden

Stone spheres outside in the sculpture garden at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art — Stone spheres in the sculpture garden

Large mobile in the sculpture garden at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art — Captivating mobile overlooking the Sound

Black cut-out sculpture garden at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art — Cool cutout sculpture

Granite sculpture in the sculpture garden at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art — Granite sculpture

Miro sculpture in the sculpture garden at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art — Is it a Miro?

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art Practical Information

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is located in Humlebæk about 30 minutes north of Copenhagen. Catch the train from the main train station and then walk about twenty minutes to the museum. If you have a car, you can drive there. Ample parking is provided. The museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 22:00 and Saturday and Sunday from 11:00 to 18:00 (closed Monday) and covered by the Copenhagen Card.

Purchase the Copenhagen Card

Not all tourist cards are great value, but the Copenhagen Card is definitely worth purchasing. It covers so much of what you’ll want to see in Copenhagen, including all three of the sites and all the transportation options covered in this post, dozens museums (there are a LOT of museums in Copenhagen), and attractions such as Tivoli Gardens (worth a visit to see the lights in the evening). You can use the Copenhagen Card on the local subways. It truly is a bargain and a major time saver.

I almost never buy city cards, but I’m very glad I purchased the Copenhagen Card. Having it saved me loads of time, made sightseeing a pleasure, and took all the stress out of riding public transit. It’s a winner!

Click the image below to purchase the Copenhagen card.

Tickets and Tours in Copenhagen

Here are some options for tickets and tours purchased through Tiqets.com:

Conclusion

Have you visited museums in Copenhagen? Which ones did you visit and recommend? Please share in the comments below.

Here are more posts about awesome museums to visit in England and Europe:

Best Three Must-See Museums To Visit in Copenhagen

January 12, 2023October 16, 2024Artsy Sightseeing, Denmark, Destinations, Get Inspired carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 16th, 2024 at 01:14 am

The best three museums in Copenhagen (visit them with the Copenhagen Card) are all world-class and worth a trip to Denmark’s fabulous capital city just to visit them. There are several must-sees, but for this post, I focus on my three favorites: the Design Museum, the Danish National Museum, and the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, which is about thirty minutes north of Copenhagen (super easy to get to).

Armed with a Copenhagen Card, I ventured forth into the bustling streets of Copenhagen for three amazing Artsy Traveler experiences.

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

Design Museum

Called the Designmuseum Danmark, this museum is absolutely stunning (see #1 on the map above). Even if you’ve never in your life thought about design, put this museum on your list of must-sees while in Copenhagen. It tells the story of Danish design in room after room of artful displays of everything from furniture to objects to textiles to cutlery to posters, and a lot more.

Gregg and I never wanted to leave, although after our visit we did enjoy relaxing in the lovely courtyard and drinking lattes served by an enthusiastic young man. He was so pleased when we raved to him about how much we loved the museum.

Breezy and relaxing outdoor area at the Designmuseum Danmark

Gregg relaxing after touring the Designmuseum Danmark

The many rooms in the Designmuseum Danmark are arranged around themed exhibitions that run for quite a long time. For the most up-to-date information about current exhibitions, check the museum’s website.

Each display is accompanied by informative explanations in both Danish and English. Here’s an overview of the exhibitions we saw at the Designmuseum Danmark.

The Future is Present

The first exhibition we entered explored many of the ways in which designers around the world are finding solutions to challenges such as climate change, refugee flows, pandemics, and more. How do we live together in communities, relate to each other, and interact with our environments? And what role does design play?

The many displays are both beautiful and thought-provoking. One of my favorites is this display of biodegradable urns. The pendant attached to the urn is planted so that loved ones can enjoy “the growing flowers and a tree in a place for conversation and remembrance.”

Biodegradable urns - a way to remember loved ones long after their passing — Biodegradable urns – a way to remember loved ones long after their passing

Wonder

This exhibition featured objects from some of the Designmuseum’s many collections. The exhibition tells the story of how a thing becomes an object in a private collection or in a museum. Each display is imaginatively presented and accompanied by excellent commentary. You could spend a lot of time in the Designmuseum Danmark!

Here’s a sampling of some of the objects in the Wonder exhibition.

Gorgeously designed chair from the 19th Century at the Design Museum in Copenhagen — Gorgeously designed chair from the 19th Century

Art nouveau necklace at the Design Museum in Copenhagen — Art nouveau necklace

The Magic of Form

Our favorite exhibition was The Magic of Form that took us on a fabulous journey through Danish design history. As anyone who has seen a piece of Danish modern furniture knows, Denmark and design go hand in hand. The Danes have a knack for creating marvelously designed furniture that is both beautiful and practical.

The exhibition is massive–room after room of objects and pieces of furniture that follow the historical development of Danish design from around 1900 to the present. Every time we entered a new room, we gasped in wonder. Not only were the objects themselves stunning, but also the way in which they were presented raised my experience of museum display techniques to new heights.

Here’s a selection of a few of the rooms and displays we wandered through.

Modern furniture display at the Design Museum in Copenhagen — Danish Modern chairs imaginatively displayed

Lamps and vases at the Design Museum in Copenhagen — Vases, a modern light fixture, and an abstract painting

Sixties-era furniture at the Design Museum in Copenhagen — Chock full of color and form

Creative display of furniture at the Design Museum in Copenhagen — Danish Modern run amok

Modern lamps at the Design Museum in Copenhagenlamps — Ultra modern Danish Modern chic

Modern sculpture at the Design Museum in Copenhagen — Colorful sculpture

Other Exhibitions

When we toured the Designmuseum Danmark, we also saw two other exhibitions. The Table, Cover Thyself exhibition of plates and cultlery showed a myriad selection of table settings including plates, cutlery, tureens, figurines, and more. I particularly loved these two jugs.

Coffee and tea pots at the Design Museum in Copenhagen — Two beautifully designed coffee jugs

The Powerful Patterns exhibition explored patterns as an artform and included a wealth of textiles and costumes, including this beautiful dress.

Elaborate embroidered gown at the Design Museum in Copenhagen — Dress with exquisite embroidery

The Designmuseum Danmark was one of the many highlights of our week in Copenhagen. I can hardly wait to return to see what new exhibitions are being featured.

And to top off my visit, I discovered that even a trip to the ladies room was fraught with design. Here’s what I saw when I look up from where I was, um, sitting:

Plastic chair above a toilet stall at the Design Museum in Copenhagen — Chair suspended over a toilet stall at the Designmuseum Danmark

The Danes have a sense of humor for sure!

Design Museum Practical Information

The Designmuseum Danmark is open from 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday (closed Monday). Admission is 130 DKK for adults, but you can use your Copenhagen Card (see below for details). The museum is located at Bredgade 68 and makes a great stop on the way to see the Little Mermaid in the Copenhagen harbor.

The National Museum of Denmark

The Nationalmuseet (#2 on the map at the top of this post) is another major museum in which you could get lost for hours. In fact, we ran out of steam after touring the awesome collection of prehistory and Viking artifacts and didn’t see all the museum has to offer. All the more reason to return!

But even if you, like us, only manage to tour half the museum, make sure it’s the half that includes the Danish prehistory and Viking collections. Each display is cleverly mounted and includes interesting commentary in Danish and English.

Danish Prehistory Collection

I have a soft spot for prehistory museums and monuments, and visit them whenever I can. Check out my post on seven of my fave prehistory spots in Europe. Given my predelictions (and Gregg’s too), we naturally made a beeline for the Danish Prehistory collection.

What a treasure trove!

The exhibition features objects made prior to 1050 AD and extending way, way back into the misty mists of time (like 6000 BCE!) and includes unique archaeological treasures like the Trundholm Chariot of the Sun, the Egtved girl’s grave, the Gundestrup cauldron, the Hoby tomb, and more.

Twenty-four rooms arranged in a large square enclosing the gardens take you from the earliest years up to the Viking era. I was surprised and enthralled by the age of many of the prehistoric objects in the first several rooms. A highlight is the skeleton of a massive bull elk that perished in a bog over 8500 years ago.

Ancient sculpture of an elk at the Danish National Museum — The Tåderup Elk at the Danish National Museum

Here are two of my favorite displays, but there were many more. You could spend a very long time in the Danish prehistory rooms.

Polished figures from prehistory at the Danish National Museum — Polished figures from prehistoric grave sites

Viksø helmets from the Bronze Age at the Danish National Museum — Viksø helmets from the Bronze Age

Viking Exhibition

Eventually, you’ll arrive at the Viking exhibition to be confronted by a model of a full-size Viking ship (and it’s really big!). The ship dominates the large room that includes displays that trace Denmark’s huge contribution to world history. At one time, Vikings controlled vast swathes of Europe, extending all the way to North America. A wall-size map at the beginning of the exhibition shows how far their influence extended.

Viking costumes at the Danish National Museum — Sartorial elegance of the Vikings; a portion of the ship model is in the background

The Danes are very proud of their Viking heritage, as evidenced by the care they’ve taken to mount such a spectacular exhibition.

The Raid Experience

Included in the Viking exhibition is a new multi-media experience called “The Raid” that invites guests to “hop aboard and join the Vikings on an adventurous raid.”

“The Raid” isn’t actually a ride. You walk through a series of rooms, stopping in each to watch a 360-degree projection accompanied by commentary in English. The projections tell the exciting story of Björn Ironside, the legendary Viking who led 62 ships on an ill-fated journey to Rome.

Along the way, they plunder and pillage as Vikings are wont to do, but never actually make it to Rome. They do make it into the Mediterranean, however. Unfortunately, on their way out again, they are almost destroyed by large firebombs raining down upon them from the cliffs above the Strait of Gibraltar. Poor Bjorn perishes and very few ships make it back to Denmark. So ends Bjorn’s raid, only to be revived 1500-odd years later for tourists to wonder at.

Poster for The Viking Raid attraction at the Danish National Museum — Poster for “The Raid” at the Danish National Museum

What Else to See at the National Museum

The museum includes exhibitions from Denmark’s Middle Ages and Renaissance, the histories of Denmark, an antique collection, the Children’s Museum, Voices from the Colonies, and a Coin and Medal Collection in addition to special exhibitions. Everything is state-of-the-art, a real testament to recent advances in museumology.

I need to go back!

Canal in Copenhagen — On the way to the National Museum of Denmark

National Museum of Denmark Practical Information

The National Museum of Denmark is located in the Prince’s Palace at Ny Vestergade 10. It’s within walking distance from Nyhavn where I recommend you stay. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00 (closed Monday) and covered by the Copenhagen Card.

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (#3 on the map at the top of this post) is about a 30-minute train ride north of Copenhagen. It’s world-renowned as one of Europe’s best modern art museums, and therefore a must-visit for the Artsy Traveler!

That said, I confess that I found the exhibitions a tad underwhelming. However, the setting of the museum on the North Sea and the many outdoor sculptures are fabulous and well worth the trip.

The food in the restaurant overlooking the water is also excellent!

Founded by Knud W. Jensen to house Danish modern art, the museum opened in 1958. Within a few years, the focus shifted from featuring predominantly Danish art to becoming an international museum that showcased internationally renowned artists.

Check what exhibitions are on, but even if they don’t appeal, visit the museum anyway. It makes for a lovely morning out from Copenhagen. You reach it by train (covered by the Copenhagen Card) followed by a pleasant 20-minute stroll along a suburban road to the museum.

After visiting the exhibitions, head outside where the real stars of the museum are located. Here’s a selection of sculptures dotted all around the large property.

Carol Cram in front of a modern sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Granite sphere in the sculpture garden at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Huge mobile in the sculpture garden overlooking the water with Sweden in the distance at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Black cut-out modern sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Granite sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Miro-inspired bird man sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art Practical Information

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is located in Humlebæk about 30 minutes north of Copenhagen. Catch the train from the main train station and then walk about twenty minutes to the museum. If you have a car, you can drive there. Ample parking is provided. The museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 22:00 and Saturday and Sunday from 11:00 to 18:00 (closed Monday) and covered by the Copenhagen Card.

Purchase the Copenhagen Card

Not all tourist cards are great value, but the Copenhagen Card is definitely worth purchasing. It covers so much of what you’ll want to see in Copenhagen, including all three of the museums covered in this post along with dozens more museums (there are a LOT of museums in Copenhagen), attractions such as Tivoli Gardens (worth a visit to see the lights in the evening), and all your transportation in and around Copenhagen. You can use it on the local subways and on trains that go farther afield to popular destinations such as Frederiksburg Castle, Kronburg Castle, and the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. It truly is a bargain and a major time-saver.

I almost never buy city cards, but I’m very glad I purchased the Copenhagen Card. Having it saved me loads of time, made sightseeing a pleasure, and took all the stress out of riding public transit. It’s a winner!

Click the image below to purchase the Copenhagen card.

Copenhagen Tours & Tickets

Check out more tours and things to do in marvelous Copenhagen with Get Your Guide.

You can also purchase tickets directly through Tiqets.com

Copenhagen Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Copenhagen!

Conclusion

Have you visited museums in Copenhagen? Which ones did you visit and recommend? Please share in the comments below.

Here are more posts about awesome museums to visit in England and Europe:

Travel Photography As Art: Tips for Taking Great Shots by Guest Poster Julie H. Ferguson

December 19, 2022December 19, 2022Activities, Get Inspired, Travel Smart carolcram 1 Comment

For most travelers, taking photgraphs is an integral part of exploring new destinations. Some people snap quick photos with their SmartPhones while others travel with several cameras and apply their training and a good eye to taking memorable, even exhibition-worthy photographs. Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson falls into the latter category.

Julie describes how she discovered her love of photography and shares her travel photography tips to help the Artsy Traveler take great pictures.

The cover photo for this post, previously exhibited, shows an iceberg in Baffin Bay, where Julie sailed on an expedition ship in the summer of 2022.

How I Got Started with Travel Photography

I believe photography is an art form, while travel is an addiction. Together, they make a magical combination.

My father was an accomplished painter in oils and watercolors who took me to all the great museums and galleries in the UK and some in Europe. A serious amateur, he was good enough to exhibit in the Royal Academy. He also tried hard to get me drawing and painting from an early age. However, I didn’t have his talent and got frustrated when I couldn’t reproduce what I was seeing. And then, when I was ten, Dad had a brainwave and bought me a Kodak Brownie camera. Finally, I found a way to reproduce what I was seeing! Since then, I always have a camera in my hand.

Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson in Croker Bay on a cruise to Canada's Arctic in 2022 — Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson in Croker Bay on an expedition to Canada’s High Arctic (Nunavut) in 2022 (Courtesy: Susan Dixon)

My Photography Passion Expands

For years, I employed what my father taught me about composition, color, and light, especially after I acquired my first single lens reflex camera. I bought my first digital camera in 1999 and was hooked. I joined a camera club in 2005, practised a lot, and learned how to edit my images on a computer.

Now, I own four cameras — two Nikons and lenses, one small but mighty Lumix that fits in my pocket when I’m doing active things like riding camels, and an old GoPro. I have about 50,000 images in the Cloud and have not stopped practising.

Selection of cameras used by guest poster Julie H. Ferguson when taking travel photographs — Julie’s cameras go everywhere with her when she travels

Exhibiting My Travel Photography

Our visual, connected world has seen an explosion in photography recently but, oddly enough, not much of an increase in photography exhibitions. Go to any small or large gallery, and you will rarely see photographs on display. I try to find photography exhibitions wherever I am in the world and am not always successful, but at least I can enjoy the world’s best travel photographers’ work online. Here are two of my favorite websites:

The excellent art gallery near where I live in Penticton, BC, asked my camera club, the Penticton Photography Club, to mount a small exhibition in collaboration with fibre artists in 2021. This was the first photography exhibit the gallery had mounted in its ninety-nine-year existence. I sold my first image at this exhibition — a thrilling moment for me after over twelve years of exhibiting. It was validating, and I felt I had honored my father’s long ago training sessions.

Guest poster Julie h. Ferguson next to photographs she exhibited — Julie next to the first photograph (R) she sold at an exhibition of the Naramata Inn near Penticton, BC (Courtesy: Merle Kindred)

What Kind of Camera Should You Use?

The best camera you have is the one in your hand is an old saying but it’s spot on! Today, the newer phone cameras are exceptional, and I use mine when I’m stuck without one of my cameras. It takes very sharp images with true colors, and manages low light quite well. The video is good too, although I prefer taking stills because I enjoy the challenge.

My Travel Photography Tips

Do you, like me, view photography as more than a snapshot? Perhaps even art? If so, here are some simple travel photography tips to up your game for taking great travel shots.

Travel Photography Tip 1: Keep it straight

Here’s how to avoid shooting wonky horizons and leaning buildings

Line up the horizon to be parallel with the top or bottom of the screen; line up the side of buildings with the side of the screen.
Don’t tip your camera up or down—keep it parallel to the ground.

An iceberg near Baffin Island in Canada's Arctic--an example of good travel photography — Keeping the horizon line straight and focusing on the foreground

Travel Photography Tip 2: Avoid fuzzy images

Fuzzy images are generally caused by camera shake or poor focussing. Here’s how to fix:

Camera shake (everything is fuzzy): Never hold your camera or phone at arm’s length as it bounces when you click the shutter down. Wedge it against something or fix your elbows on a wall, your chest, or your knees before pressing the shutter.

Out of focus (the subject is fuzzy): Press the shutter halfway down and wait for the camera to focus on the subject. If using a phone, tap the screen over the subject. When shooting people or animals focus on the eye closest to you.

Travel Photography Tip 3: Find great light

Don’t shoot into the sun. The best light is during the golden hour after sunrise and before sunset.

Travel Photography Tip 4: Take great people shots

Light people effectively: Take portraits in the shade or on an overcast day to avoid ugly shadows on faces and squinty eyes in bright sunlight. Dark or silhouetted portraits are caused by bright light behind them from skies, sun, sea, or snow.

Close-up hotograph of a woman whosing how to take people photos without harsh shadows. — An example of a portrait that demonstrates harsh shadows under the nose, deep wrinkles, and squinty eyes in bright midday sun.

Put your focus point on the subject by holding down the shutter halfway while the camera focuses. If your camera has an interactive screen, tap over the subject, or tap the subject on your phone’s screen.

Photograph of two camel traders in Morocco as an example of Travel Photograph Tip 4: keeping the focus point on the subject. — In 2018 at the Pushkar Camel Fair, two chiefs haggle good-naturedly over the price of one camel.

If you’re shooting inside and using flash, move your subjects away from the walls by at least a metre to avoid unsightly shadows behind them.

Travel Photography Tip 5: Apply effective composition principles

Avoid placing your subject (focus point) in the middle of the frame. Use the “Rule of Thirds” and put your subject in the area of one of the red dots in the diagram — it’s more pleasing to the eye.

Diagram showing the Rule of Thirds - Travel Photograph Tip 5.

This photograph of an Inu elder in Canada's Arctic demonstrates the trave; photography tip related to the principle of thirds — This photograph of an Inuk elder in Canada’s Arctic demonstrates the Rule of Thirds and the need for space in front of her.

Travel Photograph Tip 6: Avoid shooting where you are standing

Walk around your subject if possible; move right and left, forward and back, and up and down to find the best angle for your shot.

Ziz Gorge in Morocco - an example of photograph tip 6: avoid shooting where you are standing. — Making this huge rock the focal point using the Rule of Thirds with leading lines in this shot of the Ziz Gorge in Morocco

Travel Photography Tip 7: Practise often!

It’s digital, so you can take as many photos as you like, and your “eye” will begin to improve, and the above tips will become more automatic.

Avoid taking a new camera on vacation without taking 2001+ photographs before you go!

Editing Your Photographs

I always endeavour to get the picture I want right in the camera, but I do appreciate the creativity that the digital darkroom affords. In fact, I love the editing as much as taking the photographs. This is where the magic happens for me.

Once you start getting comfortable with your camera, you might want to take the next step and get an editing app for your phone or computer. There’s plenty of suggestions online or from camera club members to get you started . For example, my favourites are Adobe Photoshop and the Nik Collection, the first of which has a steep learning curve (check out this guide to learning Photoshop). Other apps are effective and easy to use.

Conclusion

Upping your photography game when travelling takes some practice and thought. It’s well worth the effort both for personal satisfaction and as a means of preserving your memories.

Safe travels!

Read about Julie H. Ferguson on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page.

London’s National Gallery: The Best of the Best

November 14, 2022March 11, 2023Artsy Sightseeing, Destinations, England carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on March 11th, 2023 at 08:10 pm

I love the National Gallery in London! It’s small enough to enjoy in a few hours without getting exhausted (unlike the Louvre), and yet big enough to include an astonishing collection of masterpieces from the Middle Ages to the Impressionists.

Also, it’s free, which is amazing considering that every other major art museum in Europe charges at least 20 to 30 Euros.

I dropped by the National Gallery fairly late in the day and so only had an hour to spend before it closed. An hour is not enough, but if it’s all you have, you won’t be disappointed.

I wandered in a trance from room to room, eyes tearing up as every turn brought so many favorites before me. An impressive number of biggies are included in the sumptuous rooms.

I hadn’t visited London’s National Gallery for several years, and so was doubly excited to greet so many old friends and to discover several new pieces to admire.

In this post, I showcase some of the highlights.

Note that the images are downloaded from the National Gallery’s website, which allows display of its images for personal use, including blogs. I was glad to discover this because my own photographs are sometimes a bit crooked and ill-lit! Thank you, National Gallery.

Medieval Period at the National Gallery

Pieces by most of the major painters, including Giotto, Duccio, Lorenzetti, and Lippi, are included in the National Gallery’s medieval collection. One of the reasons why I love medieval Italian painting is because of how the artists depicted buildings. While perspective is generally lacking, the artists of this period captured the essence of medieval towns as a hodgepodge of arches and towers built at varying angles and heights. The arrangements communicate the feeling of a medieval town, rather than just a realistic representation, that still rings true today when you visit places like Siena and San Gimignano in Tuscany.

The Healing of the Man Born Blind by Duccio

I chose this painting because of how Duccio di Buoninsegna depicted the buildings behind the people. I love how the pastel colors of the buildings in the background contrast with the more vibrant robes of the central figures.

This painting is a small panel–one of 54 minutely detailed narrative scenes that was included in Duccio’s Maestà. A massive work, Maestà is considered one of the most ambitious altarpieces ever created. Most of the rest of the altarpiece is on display in the Museo dell’opera del Duomo in Siena. Read about it in my post about top cathedrals in Europe in which I include Siena Cathedral adjacent to the Museo. If you’re in Siena, the Museo dell’opera del Duomo (the museum of the cathedral) is a must-see.

When the Maestà was completed in 1311, it was carried through the streets of Siena. One of the characters in my novel The Towers of Tuscany reminiscences about seeing the procession when she was a young girl.

Duccio The Healing of the Man born Blind 1307/8-11 Egg tempera on wood, 45.1 x 46.7 cm National Gallery in London — Duccio The Healing of the Man born Blind 1307/8-11 Egg tempera on wood, 45.1 x 46.7 cm Bought, 1883 NG1140 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1140

A Group of Four Poor Clares by Ambrogio Lorenzetti

Lorenzetti was active in Siena during the 1300s and likely died of the plague that hit Siena in 1348. I really like his work and so was delighted to discover this piece in the National Gallery. It’s a fragment of a fresco that was discovered under whitewash in 1855. I love the realism of the faces and their pensive expressions.

Ambrogio Lorenzetti A Group of Four Poor Clares possibly about 1336-40 Fresco with areas of secco, 70.4 × 63.4 cm at the National Gallery in London — Ambrogio Lorenzetti A Group of Four Poor Clares possibly about 1336-40 Fresco with areas of secco, 70.4 × 63.4 cm Bought, 1878 NG1147 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1147

Italian Renaissance at the National Gallery

So many masterpieces, so little time! I was rushed by the time I got to the rooms containing some of my favorite artists from the Italian Renaissance, most notably Leonardo da Vinci and Botticelli, so I was unable to linger as long as I would have liked. Still, I managed to soak up the Renaissance vibe.

The Burlington House Cartoon by Leonardo da Vinci

I remember the first time I saw this piece when I was student at Reading University in the 1970s. Reading was only 40 minutes by train from London so I often went up to enjoy the art museums.

The Burlington House Cartoon is a large drawing made in preparation for a painting and is the only surviving large-scale drawing done by da Vinci. I like the contrast of rough and finished in the drawing. Some parts, such as the face of Mary, are beautifully detailed and evocative while others, such as the hand of Saint Anne (Mary’s mother) pointing heavenward, are barely sketched in.

Exhibited in a small, dimly lit room, the piece just glows.

Leonardo da Vinci The Burlington House Cartoon about 1499-1500 Charcoal (and wash?) heightened with white chalk on paper, mounted on canvas, 141.5 x 104.6 cm at the National Gallery in London — Leonardo da Vinci The Burlington House Cartoon about 1499-1500 Charcoal (and wash?) heightened with white chalk on paper, mounted on canvas, 141.5 x 104.6 cm Purchased with a special grant and contributions from the Art Fund, The Pilgrim Trust, and through a public appeal organised by the Art Fund, 1962 NG6337 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6337

Venus and Mars by Sandro Botticelli

I’ve been a fan of Botticelli’s work since discovering it while taking a first-year History of Art course in 1974. I’d forgotten that Venus and Mars–one of Botticelli’s most famous paintings–is in the National Gallery, and gasped out loud when I entered the roomful of Botticellis. Fortunately, no one noticed.

There’s so much to love about this painting! The look on Venus’s face as she coolly regards the blissed- out Mars is priceless. She’s clearly not all that impressed! And then there are the four mischievious nymphs trying to wake up Mars. One of them is even wearing his helmet.

Sandro Botticelli Venus and Mars about 1485 Tempera and oil on poplar, 69.2 x 173 at the National Gallery in London — Sandro Botticelli Venus and Mars about 1485 Tempera and oil on poplar, 69.2 x 173.4 cm Bought, 1874 NG915 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG915

Flemish Masterpieces at the National Gallery

The National Gallery is particularly well endowed with masterpieces from the northern Renaissance. You’ll find several pieces by Rembrandt, two gems by Vermeer, and a famous van Dyck, among many others.

The Arnolfini Portrait by Jan van Eyck

This is one of the most famous paintings in the National Gallery, and is considered one of the most famous and intriguing paintings in the world. There are so many details to examine, and all have significance. For more information about the painting (which was completed in 1434) and why it’s considered so great, check out this analysis on YouTube.

Jan van Eyck The Arnolfini Portrait 1434 Oil on oak, 82.2 x 60 cm at the National Gallery in London — Jan van Eyck The Arnolfini Portrait 1434 Oil on oak, 82.2 x 60 cm Bought, 1842 NG186 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG186

A Woman Bathing in a Stream by Rembrandt

This is such a tender, beautiful painting by Rembrandt, and a bit of a change from his many portraits and self-portraits. The woman may be Hendrickje Stoffels, who came into Rembrandt’s household to look after his infant son after his first wife, Saskia, died. Hendrickje and Rembrandt became lovers but were unable to marry. There is a universality about the intimate moment caught in the painting that resonates with anyone who has ever taken off their shoes on a hot day to wade in a cool stream.

Rembrandt A Woman bathing in a Stream (Hendrickje Stoffels?) at the National Gallery in London — Rembrandt A Woman bathing in a Stream (Hendrickje Stoffels?) 1654 Oil on oak, 61.8 x 47 cm Holwell Carr Bequest, 1831 NG54 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG54

A Young Woman Seated at a Virginal by Johannes Vermeer

The word exquisite always come to mind when I look at a painting by Vermeer. Detailed and delicate, this painting shows us a moment in time. The young girl is just about to play, but someone or something has distracted her. Whatever it is, she doesn’t look too thrilled.

One of the ways to appreciate just why Vermeer is considered so great is to look at paintings by his contemporaries. Most depict similar subjects, but you can tell right away that there’s something different about the Vermeers. The brushwork is finer, the light more skillfully depicted, the backgrounds more perfectly rendered. Vermeer didn’t paint many pieces during his lifetime, but what he did paint was pretty amazing.

hannes Vermeer A Young Woman seated at a Virginal about 1670-2 Oil on canvas, 51.5 x 45.5 cm at the National Gallery in London — Johannes Vermeer A Young Woman seated at a Virginal about 1670-2 Oil on canvas, 51.5 x 45.5 cm Salting Bequest, 1910 NG2568 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG2568

A Boy and A Girl with a Cat and an Eel by Judith Leyster

I was super excited to come across this painting by Judith Leyster, who has been getting more recognition in recent years. The boy and the girl are definitely up to no good!

Judith Leyster A Boy and a Girl with a Cat and an Eel about 1635 Oil on oak, 59.4 × 48.8 cm at the National Gallery in London — Judith Leyster A Boy and a Girl with a Cat and an Eel about 1635 Oil on oak, 59.4 × 48.8 cm Bequeathed by C.F. Leach, 1943 NG5417 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG5417

The Four Elements: Air, Earth, Fire, Water by Joachim Beuckelaer

I had never seen these paintings before. They are not particularly famous, but they are interesting. I couldn’t stop looking at them.

Each painting depicts food according to its relationship to one of the four elements. In the Air painting, birds are being plucked and sold. Some impressive-looking vegetables are on display in the Earth painting. The Fire painting depicts game being butchered and roasted, and finally many different varieties of fish are ready for market in the Water painting.

The expressions on the faces of the people in the paintings are blank and dour. No one looks like they are enjoying themselves! But the colors and textures of the foods are so incredibly real. They almost look like they are about to spill out of the paintings onto the floor of the gallery.

Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Air 1570 Oil on canvas, 158 × 216 cm at the National Gallery in London — Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Air 1570 Oil on canvas, 158 × 216 cm Bought, 2001 NG6587 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6587

Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Earth 1569 Oil on canvas, 158 × 215.4 cm at the National Gallery in London — Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Earth 1569 Oil on canvas, 158 × 215.4 cm Bought, 2001 NG6585 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6585

Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Fire 1570 Oil on canvas at the National Gallery in London — Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Fire 1570 Oil on canvas, 158.2 × 215.4 cm Bought, 2001 NG6588 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6588

Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Water 1569 Oil on canvas, 158.1 × 214.9 cm at the National Gallery in London — Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Water 1569 Oil on canvas, 158.1 × 214.9 cm Bought, 2001 NG6586 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6586

Baroque Paintings at the National Gallery

Boy Bitten by a Lizard by Caravaggio

In a room full of great paintings, I was instantly drawn to this small painting by Caravaggio of a boy being bitten by a lizard. The expression on his face is so real and so relatable. The painting was completed in Rome in the mid-1590s and was considered innovative for the time. Apparently, it was unusual for a late-16th-century painting to show such a moment of action. Caravaggio, however, wasn’t worried about following artistic conventions. He painted directly on the canvas from live models

Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio Boy bitten by a Lizard about 1594-5 Oil on canvas, 66 x 49.5 cm at the National Gallery in London — Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio Boy bitten by a Lizard about 1594-5 Oil on canvas, 66 x 49.5 cm Bought with the aid of a contribution from the J. Paul Getty Jr Endowment Fund, 1986 NG6504 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6504

British Painting at the National Gallery

The Fighting Temeraire by William Turner

My father bought a print of this painting when he first visited London in the 1960s. It was probably the first real painting I’d ever seen, and I remember loving to look at it when I was a child. When I saw it again in the National Gallery, I couldn’t help feeling emotional since my father has been gone for several years now and my mother passed quite recently.

Turner’s painting shows the final journey of the Temeraire, a warship that had played a distinguished role in the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, but by 1838 was ready for the scrap heap. It’s a poignant scene in its depiction of the age of sail giving way to the age of steam. Turner, of course, was most famous for his depiction of light, which is on full display in the magnificent sunset depicted in the painting.

The painting is one of Turner’s most famous and duly celebrated, but for me it will always remind me of my childhood home.

Joseph Mallord William Turner The Fighting Temeraire 1839 Oil on canvas, 90.7 x 121.6 cm at the National Gallery in London — Joseph Mallord William Turner The Fighting Temeraire 1839 Oil on canvas, 90.7 x 121.6 cm Turner Bequest, 1856 NG524 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG524

Impressionists and Post-Impressionists at the National Gallery

The rooms displaying paintings by the Impressionists and post-Impressionists are generally mobbed at the National Gallery. So many famous pieces are included! Stand in the middle of one of the rooms and rotate slowly. If you’re a fan of this era and style of art, you’ll likely recognize just about every piece in the room, from the iconic Sunflowers by van Gogh to the massive painting of The Bathers by Seurat and the sublime waterlilies by Monet.

I’d forgotten just how rich the National Gallery’s collection of Impressionists is and spent my first few minutes in the rooms exclaiming (to myself), they have that? and that one? oh, my, and that one too? This is incredible!

I had to sit down a few times just to collect myself. I’ve picked out four of my favorites (but it was a tough choice).

Waterlilies by Monet

This luscious painting dominates one entire wall and is hard to get a full-on look at thanks to the throngs of like-minded visitors standing in front of it. This piece is one that was not included in the collection of large waterlily paintings in Musėe de l’Orangerie in Paris (check out my round-up of Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris for more about the Monets in the Orangerie).

The waterlily paintings in the Orangerie include details of trees and foliage that anchor the viewer and give them a sense of location. But this painting in the National Gallery is completely free-flowing. You have no idea where in the pond you are; you’re immersed in a shimmering world of greens and pinks and purples. No photograph can do it justice; you need to stand in front of the real thing and just drink it in.

Claude Monet Water-Lilies after 1916 Oil on canvas, 200.7 x 426.7 cm at the National Gallery in London — Claude Monet Water-Lilies after 1916 Oil on canvas, 200.7 x 426.7 cm Bought, 1963 NG6343 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6343

Sunflowers by Vincent van Gogh

This cheerful painting of sunflowers exuberantly clumped together in a plain vase signed by “Vincent” is probably the most famous of van Gogh’s works. It appears on a dizzying array of merchandise in the gift shop, from mugs to cards to t-shirts to umbrellas.

Why is this painting so famous? I think because it looks like sunshine on canvas. The varying shades of yellow and gold that van Gogh uses perfectly capture the feeling of a hot day in late summer when some sunflowers are still in bloom, others have just passed their peak and are starting to wilt, and still others have lost their petals completely.

This version of Sunflowers is one of five, the other four being on display in art museums around the world including the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam (always worth a visit!). Apparently, van Gogh made the paintings to decorate his house in Arles in preparation for a visit from fellow artist Paul Gauguin.

Vincent van Gogh Sunflowers 1888 Oil on canvas, 92.1 x 73 cm at the National gallery in London — Vincent van Gogh Sunflowers 1888 Oil on canvas, 92.1 x 73 cm Bought, Courtauld Fund, 1924 NG3863 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG3863

Bathers at Asnières by Georges Seurat

The painting depicts regular people enjoying a day off at the river, the factories they work in visible in the distance, their focus on the feel of warm grass and cool water. It’s a snapshot in time. Each person is immersed in his own thoughts; each is alone, the exhaustion of a week at work still heavy on their shoulders even on their day off.

This massive painting is famous for its use of pointillism and was Seurat’s first major composition. He painted it at the age of 24 to make his mark at the official Salon in the spring of 1884. Unfortunately, the painting was rejected!

Georges Seurat Bathers at Asnières 1884 Oil on canvas, 201 × 300 cm at the National Gallery in London — Georges Seurat Bathers at Asnières 1884 Oil on canvas, 201 × 300 cm Bought, Courtauld Fund, 1924 NG3908 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG3908

Surprised! by Rousseau

This painting by Rousseau was new to me, and I just loved it! Look at the expression on the tiger’s face! Has he been frightened by the flashes of lightning and the sudden wind blowing the jungle foliage all over the place? Who knows? But it’s such a wonderfully lush moment. Surprised! was the first of about 20 jungle paintings that Rousseau produced. His jungles are entirely imaginary; Rousseau never left France.

He was an amateur artist who faced a fair bit of ridicule from the art establishment, but now Rousseau is considered a pioneer of “naïve art.”

Henri Rousseau Surprised! 1891 Oil on canvas, 129.8 x 161.9 cm at the National Gallery in London — Henri Rousseau Surprised! 1891 Oil on canvas, 129.8 x 161.9 cm Bought, with the aid of a substantial donation from the Hon. Walter H. Annenberg, 1972 NG6421 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6421

National Gallery Details

The National Gallery is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm and on Fridays until 9 pm. It’s located on Trafalgar Square and entry is free, although donations are welcomed. The nearest Tube stations are Charing Cross and Leicester Square.

Tours of the National Gallery

Every so often, I spring for a guided tour of an art museum and I’m never disappointed. Here are some options for touring the National Gallery.

Conclusion

Have you visited the National Gallery? What are some of your favorites? Share in the Comments below. Want more posts about art museums? Here are some posts about great art museums in Europe that I’ve visited and recommend:

Overview of the Rijksmuseum

Location of the Rijksmuseum

Medieval Art at the Rijksmuseum

Wood Sculptures

Renaissance Paintings

Dutch Ships at the Rijksmuseum

Masterworks at the Rijksmuseum

The Night Watch by Rembrandt

The Jewish Bride by Rembrandt

The Milkmaid by Vermeer

The Threatened Swan by Jan Asselijn

Still Lifes at the Rijksmuseum

The Well-Stocked Kitchen by Joachim Beuckelaer

Still Life of Flowers in a Glass Vase by Rachel Ruysch

Still Life with Gilt Cup by Willem Claesz Heda

Still Life with Cheese by Floris Claesz van Dijck

Flower Still Life with a Crown Imperios Fritillary in a Stone Niche by Jacob Woutersz Vosmaer

Porcelain at the Rijksmuseum

Doll Houses at the Rijksmuseum

Practical Information About the Rijksmuseum

Rijksmuseum Tours with Tiqets.com

Conclusion

Other Posts About Great Art Museums

Overview of the Van Gogh Museum

View of the Museum

Self-Portraits of Van Gogh

Early Work

Still Life with Open Bible

The Potato Eaters

Van Gogh in Paris

Nude Bathing by Degas

View Seen Through a Balcony by Gustave Caillebotte

Café Table with Absinthe

Still Lifes – Red Cabbage and Garlic

Portraits

Woman in the Bar

Van Gogh in the South of France

The White Orchard

The Harvest

The Bedroom

Sunflowers

The Yellow House

Japanese Influence

Almond Blossoms

The Sower

Practical Information

Conclusion

Other Posts About Great Art Museums

Overview of Proyecto Asis

Booking a Day at Proyecto Asis

Getting to Proyecto Asis

Touring the Sloth Sanctuary

Seeing Sloths

Learning About Sloths

Hearing from the Guide

Lunch at a Soda

Wildlife Refuge Tour

Learning About Rescue Animals

Monkeys at Proyecto Asis

How Monkeys Become Pets

A Green Boa

Tropical Birds at Proyecto Asis

Macaws

A Hybrid Macaw

Volunteering at Proyecto Asis

Conclusion

Interview with Tanvi Pathare

Who is Tanvi Pathare?

Tanvi’s Inspiration

Tanvi’s Favorite Flowers

Influences of Location

Villa Lena Workshop

Tanvi Pathare’s Artwork

Landscapes by Tanvi Pathare

Still Lifes by Tanvi Pathare

About the Flower Painting Workshop at Villa Lena

Visit Villa Lena

Staying at the Villa Lena

Villa Lena Foundation

Conclusion