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Favorite Regions in Italy for the Artsy Traveler

Artsy Sightseeing, Get Inspired, Italy carolcram Leave a Comment on Favorite Regions in Italy for the Artsy Traveler

Last updated on April 30th, 2022 at 12:32 am

My favorite regions in Italy range from Milan and the Dolomites in the north to Naples in the south. Unless you have several months to spare, you can’t really “do” all of Italy in one trip.

You’ll spend far too much time traveling and far too little time enjoying. Pick one or two regions and spent a week or two in each.

As Rick Steves says, “travel like you plan to return.”

Map of Favorite Regions in Italy

The map below shows approximate locations of the main regions in Italy that I recommend you explore. I’ve visited all of them except for Sicily (coming soon!).

Map of Italy showing major tourist areas including Rome, Tuscany, and Venice

I’m going to start in the north and move south because we often drive to Italy, so that’s the direction we enter the country from.

Here are the five regions of Italy I suggest you explore:

  • Northern Italy: Turin, Lake Como, Milan, Dolomites
  • Venice and Ravenna
  • Tuscany and Umbria
  • Rome
  • Compania: Naples, Pompeii, Amalfi Coast

In this post, I give a brief overview of these areas and provide links to more in-depth posts.

Northern Italy

You could spend at least a week traveling through the regions of northern Italy.

Milan Cathedral at sunset
Milan Cathedral

From east to west, I recommend Turin, Lake Como, Milan, and the Dolomites. Spend at least a week in the north (not counting Venice which deserves at least three days on its own). You won’t run out of things to do!

Highlights of Northern Italy

Here are some of my favorite artsy highlights (a by no means an exhaustive list) in northern Italy:

  • Turin: The Egyptian Museum – Museo Egizio is first-rate. It houses one of the oldest collections of Ancient Egyptian artifacts in the world. Even if you’re only moderately interested in ancient Egypt, put it on your list.
  • Milan: The Duomo, Da Vinci’s Last Supper, and La Scala just for starters. There’s lots to see in Milan and it has a very different vibe (calmer in my opinion) than Rome.
  • Italian Lake District: Spend several days exploring the many small towns and the various lakes; gorgeous views, great food, lots of history.
  • The Dolomites: Drive as far up as you can and then take a chairlift or gondola even higher. The alpine culture is very different from the rest of Italy.
  • Bolzano: The South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology

For more details about these and other artsy sightseeing in northern Italy, check out Recommended Places to Travel in Northern Italy.

Venice

Don’t stint on the time you allocate to visiting Venice. The city is worth at least three days (preferably longer). You could choose to spend a week in the area–three or four nights in Venice, a night in the Veneto to visit Vicenza and Padua, and then head south to spend two nights in glorious Ravenna (more on Ravenna in a minute).

Rialto Bridge
Rialto bridge in stunning Venice

You don’t need a car in Venice and you can reach the other towns in the area by train.

Highlights of Venice

  • Peggy Guggenheim Museum – one of my very favorite small modern art museums in Europe (read more in Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe.
  • Piazza San Marco late at night when the crowds have thinned
  • Accademia Gallery – great selection of Renaissance and Baroque artists in a lovely, old building
  • Island of Murano to watch glass-blowing and buy glass souvenirs
  • Duomo and Doge’s Palace: must-see attractions, but go early or late and get reservations to avoid crowds
  • Enjoying a Vivaldi concert and getting lost in the dark on the way back to your hotel

For more details about these and other sightseeing options and to plan your trip to Venice, read Venice in Three Days for the Artsy Traveler.

Ravenna

Ravenna is a delightful small city south of Venice, most famous for the mosaics in the eight Christian monuments on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

While many of these sites, particularly the most famous mosaics in the Church of San Vitale, attract the tour busses, the rest of Ravenna is wonderfully non-touristy. Relax in the main square and watch the world go by. Ravenna has a subtle charm that made me want to write a novel set there just so I could go and stay for a good long while.

Piazza del Popolo in the evening, Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Piazza del Popolo in the evening, Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

While we were in Ravenna, we watched a bride and groom emerge from a church and get into a red Ferrari, stopped into an art opening and drank white wine with the two Italian artists who were exhibiting their paintings, and enjoyed one of the best meals we’ve ever had in Italy at Ristorante Alexander. Check out the website and make a reservation! The food was to die for and the prices very reasonable.

TIP: When dining in Italy, make use of review apps and websites to find good restaurants. Every time we’ve taken the time to search out well-rated restaurants and to make reservations, we’ve been amply rewarded by fabulous meals.

Highlights of Ravenna: Touring the UNESCO World Heritage Sites

The mosaics in the early Christian monuments are the big draw in Ravenna, as noted earlier.

TIP: Buy your combination ticket for the six UNESCO sites in central Ravenna at any of these locations: the Basilica San Vitale, Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, Neonian Baptistery, and the Archbishop’s Chapel.

The sixth site–the Arian Baptistery–is free and worth a visit to view the well-preserved domed mosaic, dating from the early 6th century AD, that shows Christ being baptized by John the Baptist.

At just €9.50 for entrance to all these sites, the Ravenna Mosaics combo ticket has to be one of Europe’s best artsy bargains. In addition to the six sites in central Ravenna, don’t miss the remaining two UNESCO sites. The mausoleum of Theodoric is a short walk from the town center, and the Church of Sant’Apollinare in Classe is an 8-kilometer drive towards the Adriatic coast.

Mosaic in Ravenna featuring the Empress Theodora
Mosaic in Ravenna featuring the Empress Theodora

Staying in Ravenna

We were driving when we visited Ravenna, and so, as usual, we stayed in a hotel on the outskirts. We then took taxis into the city and from there walked to seven of the eight UNESCO sites in the center of Ravenna. On our last morning in Ravenna, we drove to the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe.

For my hotel recommendations in Ravenna, read Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Tuscany and Umbria

Toscana! The very name evokes warmth and good living and beauty while at the same time associated with a deliciously turbulent history.

All those towers and walls and fortifications in towns such as San Gimignano and Siena and Lucca were not built back in the Middle Ages because life was easy. The architecture of Tuscan hill towns screams strife.

Fortress of Montalcino in Tuscany
The Fortress of Montalcino, a hill town in Tuscany

At the same time, the museums and churches of Tuscany burst at the seams with art–much of it created between 1300 and 1600, from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance.

We’ve been visiting Tuscany for years and plan to return. We’ve only recently “discovered” Umbria and were taken with its less touristy, more authentic atmosphere. While I love Tuscany, it can get overrun with visitors, particularly in Florence.

TIP: I recommend allocating at least a week to exploring Tuscany and another week for Umbria. Spend a few days in Florence to see the highlights and then if you have a car, find a house or an agriturismo property to rent for several days or a week in or near one of the medieval towns in Tuscany. Take day trips to other towns, bearing in mind that driving in Tuscany can be slow going on the twisty, narrow roads.

In a typical week, reserve a few days for just staying put and enjoying bella Toscana.

If you don’t have a car, you can still stay in the country, but choose a place that provides some assistance with transportation. You can join local tours such as wine tours (highly recommended!). Some properties offer cooking classes and painting classes.

After your week in Tuscany, spend a week in Umbria. The areas around Perugia or Assisi are good choices.

You won’t run out of things to see. I guarantee it!

For plenty of recommendations and suggestions, read Exploring Tuscany, Umbria and La Dolce Vita and Exploring San Gimignano in Tuscany. Also check out Art Masterpieces in Tuscany Who Don’t Want to Miss.

Rome

The Eternal City takes hold of your psyche with the weight of its 2,000-plus-year history and the central role it has played in the development of western culture.

Rome will not be denied.

Piazza Navona in Rome
Piazza Navona in Rome in the morning

I’ve visited Rome several times since my first trip there with my parents in 1974. During our most recent trip, Gregg and I spent ten days enjoying the city during Gregg’s exhibition of his paintings at a gallery near the Vatican. We lived like locals in an apartment in the same area and set aside time every day to explore new areas of Rome.

Read my Rome recommendations and a suggested itinerary for a three-day visit in The Best of Rome in Three Days.

Here are additional suggestions for what to see in Rome, including tours.

Naples and the Compania

Naples is kind of crazy–or at least it was when I visited a few years ago. We keep meaning to get down there again to see how or if it’s changed. I rather hoped it hasn’t.

I have a vivid memory of being driven in a taxi through downtown Naples and noticing how the driver barely slowed down at stop signs caked with dirt. Apparently, obeying them was optional. The driver pulled up in front of the National Archeological Museum in Naples, reputed to be one of the best museums in Italy for Roman antiquities. He then turned around and announced chiuso. Closed.

Oh. Those were the days before the Internet took the guesswork out of travel planning. Our only day in Naples was also the only day of the week when the museum was always closed.

That mistake wouldn’t happen nowadays which is a good thing although sometimes I miss the serendipity of the “olden” days when plans could so easily be derailed.

View of the Bay of Naples, the city of Naples, and Vesuvius in the distance
View of the Bay of Naples, the city of Naples, and Vesuvius in the distance

Read my recommendations and a suggested itinerary for a Week in the Campania.

Conclusion

I have a lot of posts on Italy for you to explore. Here again are some of the ones I’ve already mentioned along with a few more.

Italian flag next to a small blackboard with the word "italy" on it

Why do I Love Italy?

Destinations, Get Inspired, Italy carolcram Leave a Comment on Why do I Love Italy?

Last updated on October 9th, 2024 at 02:49 am

Let me count the ways!

First, the landscape is varied and stunning. From the rolling hills of Tuscany to the rugged cliffs of the Amalfi coast and the dreamy canals of Venice, Italy has so much to offer travelers. We are constantly discovering new regions to explore. Our latest favorite is Umbria after spending two weeks there in 2018 during an exhibition of Gregg’s paintings in the charming town of Galdo Tardino.

Stunning Umbrian landscape

When I’m not admiring the landscape of Italy, I’m immersed in its history. Between the Etruscans and the Romans, Italy is brimming with ancient sites. Every town and village traces its roots to at least Roman times and all have a central medieval core. The Middle Ages is my preferred historical period, and Italy brings both the medieval and the Renaissance periods to life every day, sometimes literally.

I don’t think I’ve ever visited Italy and not seen people dressed in medieval garb at one of the many festivals and demonstrations of medieval life.

Costumed reveler at the Venice Carnival
Costumed reveler at the Venice Carnival

Food is another big draw in Italy. Tuck into steaming plates of pasta swimming in amazing sauces, eat your plate-sized paper-thin pizza with a knife and fork like the locals do, enjoy exquisitely prepared main courses, and finish off with desserts to die for. Italy is a gastronomic paradise.

And finally, there’s the art. From the Etruscans to the moderns, art is everywhere in Italy. Some of the most beautiful artworks in the western world were created in Italy and are still there to be admired, which is excellent news for the Artsy Traveler.

For more about what to see in Italy art-wise, check out these posts:

Also, take a look at posts for individual regions:

Here is one of my favorite artworks in Itlay, the fresco featuring the Empress Theodora in Ravenna.

Stunning Byzantine art in Ravenna of Empress Theodora and her serving maids
Stunning Byzantine art in Ravenna

Belvedere Palace in Vienna is also an art gallery

Best Vienna Museum Experiences that Appeal to the Artsy Traveler

Artsy Sightseeing, Austria, Destinations, Get Inspired carolcram 3 Comments on Best Vienna Museum Experiences that Appeal to the Artsy Traveler

Last updated on October 23rd, 2024 at 05:42 am

Museums in Vienna are world-class. You can easily spend several days exploring museums that cater to just about every artsy interest–from painting to music to theater and much more.

In this post, I describe the museums I’ve enjoyed visiting and a few that I’ve yet to visit (but want to!).

Museum Passes

If you enjoy touring museums and have two or more days in Vienna, consider purchasing a Vienna PASS. You’ll be able to skip the line to popular attractions, get in free to more than 60 attractions, including the Belvedere Palace and St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and ride the hop-on hop-off sightseeing bus. It’s a pretty good deal and it saves you time.

Another less expensive option is the Vienna Flexi PASS that allows you to customize your itinerary. Check which attractions they offer to see if you’ll save money.

Map of Vienna

Use the map below to get your bearings when touring Vienna. It’s a very walkable city with most of the museums clustered in the museum district.

This map was made with Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

Touring Museums in Vienna

So let’s dig into my suggestions for best museum experiences in Vienna. As you’ll quickly discover, Vienna really is one of Europe’s best destinations for museum lovers. The only trouble is that you need to pace yourself. All those long, marble-floored corridors are hard on the knees. Take your time! It’s better to enjoy fewer museums and enjoy yourself than try to see them all and be too exhausted to take in a concert in the evening and enjoy a plate of weiner schnitzel.

Assume you’ll return! And while Vienna is a great place for museum-going, it’s also a wonderful place to just sit back and watch the world go by. There’s a reason that Vienna consistently ranks in the top ten of the world’s most livable cities.

Kunsthistorisches Museum

Start at the Kunsthistorisches Museum (#1), Vienna’s answer to the Louvre and one of Europe’s best. The museum is located at Maria-Theresien-Platz in the Imperial Palace complex and exhibits the art collection of the Habsburg family. They were also known as the House of Austria and for several hundred years ruled a large chunk of Europe.

Skip the line by purchasing your tickets to the Kunsthistorisches Museum online before you leave. You save time and are guaranteed entry into this marvelous museum.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum includes several collections.

Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna
Egyptian and Near Eastern

You’ll find one of the world’s most important collections of Egyptian antiquities at the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Take a tour of the collection which includes more than 17,000 objects. I always enjoy a good Egyptian museum, and the collection here is first-rate.

Greek and Roman Antiquities

The collection spans 3,000 years. I’m particularly fond of the Greek vases decorated with scenes of Greek life.

Kunstkammer Wien: The Cradle of the Museum

This relatively new area of the Kunsthistorisches Museum (opened in 2013) contains over 2,200 fabulous artworks. The Habsburg emperors were busy collectors from the late Middle Ages to the Baroque Age. You’ll find sculptures, clocks, objets d’art, scientific instruments, automatons, and a lot more.

The list goes on. Have a good look. You won’t regret it.

The collection in the Picture Gallery at the Kunsthistorisches Museum includes several pieces by Pieter Bruegel the Elder that you’ll probably recognize if you like 16th-century Dutch painting. You’ll also find masterpieces by Caravaggio, Titian, Rubens, and one of my favorites, Arcimboldo, who really had a way with food.

Painting of "Summer" by Arcimbolo exhibited at the Kunsthistoriches in Vienna
Summer by Giuseppe Arcimboldo [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

We bought a jigsaw puzzle of one of the Arcimboldo paintings in the marvelous museum gift shop. I do like a good museum giftshop and the one at the Kunsthistorisches has a great selection.

Collection of Historical Musical Instruments

I write about the incredible collection of historical musical instruments in Music Lover’s Guide to Vienna. On my solo trip to Vienna, I spent a happy afternoon enjoying the rooms full of pianos and harpsichords and various other instruments. The collection of Renaissance and Baroque instruments is reputed to be the finest in the world.

I was in heaven, particularly because this area of the massive Kunsthistorisches Museum was virtually empty. If I’d been so inclined, I could have played one of the pianos, and probably no one would have been the wiser. I didn’t try. The prospect of even a short stay in a Viennese prison did not appeal, even if it’s likely to be well maintained and serve wiener schnitzel.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum also includes the Coin Collection, an Armory, and lots more, but you get the picture. The museum is worth a good chunk of your day. Alternatively, pace yourself and space your visit across a few days. It depends on your stamina because plenty of museums await you in Vienna’s Museum Quarter.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum is open daily except Mondays from 10 am to 6 pm and on Thursdays from 10 am to 9 pm. Check the website for current ticket prices.

Natural History Museum

The architectural mirror image of the Kunsthistorisches Museum is the Museum of Natural History (#2) opposite it. Although natural history museums are not, strictly speaking, artsy sights, I have a soft spot for them. Vienna’s Museum of Natural History is excellent, on par with the Natural History Museums in London, New York, and Washington.

The big draw in Vienna’s Museum of Natural History is the squat statue of the wonderfully fecund Venus of Willendorf. She’s a clay figurine just 11.1 centimeters tall, reputed to have been made between 24,000 and 22,000 BCE, which is a long time ago on any calendar.

Venus of Willendorf exhibited at the National History Museum in Vienna
Venus of Willendorf exhibited at the National History Museum in Vienna – Don Hitchcock [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Although little is known about how or why she was made, you have to think her purpose had something to do with fertility. I mean, seriously! Look at her! Because she lacks defined facial features, some philosophers and archeologists view the Venus of Willendorf as representative of a universal mother.

Well, I certainly took to her. She’s displayed in a special, atmospherically lit case that will probably be surrounded by other museum-goers. Wait your turn and then spend a few minutes contemplating universal motherhood and also thinking about the people who made this exquisite figure. How had they used her? Had she been cherished? I like to think so.

Animal Displays at the Museum of Natural History

The Museum of Natural History is a marvel, with one of the many highlights being the massive second floor containing several high-ceilinged, ornate rooms chock-a-block with stuffed animals.

When we walked into the reptile room on our family trip, I had to sprint through it with my eyes closed. Stuffed snakes in glass cages filled the massive room from floor to ceiling. And I don’t mean the cute plush variety of stuffed snakes. Oh no. I’m talking about very real, very menacing, very snakey snakes. Ugh!

Fortunately, the other rooms made up for the trauma of the reptile room. The Vienna Museum of Natural History gets top marks for taxidermy.

Museums in the Museum Quarter

Vienna’s Museum Quarter (MQ) (#3) in central Vienna is truly a remarkable cultural area. Housing over sixty cultural institutions, the MQ is one of the largest districts for contemporary art and culture in the world. You’ll find museums and events devoted to art, architecture, music, fashion, theater, children’s culture, literature, dance, street art, photography, even gaming culture. This is the place to be if you love the arts.

Highlights of the MQ directly related to visual art include viewing modern art at the Leopold Museum, MUMOK – the Museum of Modern Art and Kunsthalle Wien, and visiting the remarkable Kunst Haus Wien–Vienna’s first ecological museum. The MQ is always open and entry is free. Relax in the various courtyards and engage in some serious people watching.

Hanging out in the Museum Quarter in Vienna

Here are four of the major art museums in the MQ. For more information about what’s on, including special events, check the MQ website and the websites for the individual museums. The range and breadth of cultural activities truly is breathtaking!

Leopold Museum

The Leopold Museum (#4) exhibits the world’s most important collection of paintings and works on paper by Egon Schiele who, along with Gustav Klimt, is one of the best-known Austrian artists of the 20th century.

Egon Schiele, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
MUMOK – Museum moderner Kunst Stiftung Ludwig Wien

MUMOK (#5) is the largest museum of modern and contemporary art in central Europe (and that’s saying something!). You’ll find an amazing collection that features works of classical modernism (my favorite) by artists such as Picasso, Mondrian, and Magritte to mention only a few, along with pop art, Fluxus, minimal art, and concept art, as well as Vienna Actionism and contemporary art.

MUMOK in the Museum Quarter in Vienna
Kunsthalle Wien

The Kunsthalle Wien (#6) fcouses on temporary exhibitions of contemporary art. I confess I’m not generally a fan of contemporary art, but if you are, check the website for current exhibitions.

Kunst Haus Wien

Vienna’s first ecological museum, the Kunst Haus Wien (#7), features contemporary art with a focus on photography. You have to check out the building–it’s remarkable with colorful tiles, uneven floors, and irregular structures. The museum also houses the Museum Hundertwasser which displays the largest permanent collection of works by Friedensreich Hundertwasser who designed the building for the Kunst Haus Wien and is also one of Austria’s most famous artists and visionaries.

Visit Kunst Haus Wien for a very different experience!

The Meeting Place at the MuseumsQuartier (MQ) is one of the largest cultural quarters in the world. You’ll need another day to tour the MQ and also hang out in its public spaces.

Belvedere Palace

If you are a fan of Gustav Klimt, don’t miss the Belvedere Palace (#8). Here you’ll see the world’s largest collection of Klimt’s paintings, including his masterpiece, The Kiss, and the iconic Judith I. You’ll also find a good 19th-century collection that includes work by Monet and van Gogh.

Gustav Klimt, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The baroque Belvedere Palace itself is worth visiting to see its magnificent ornamental gardens and the stunning views of Vienna.

Other Museums in Vienna

Here’s a list of several other art museums in Vienna that are worth a visit.

Click the links to buy your tickets in advance or check if the Vienna PASS or Flexi PASS includes admission or discounts.

Albertina Museum

The Albertina Museum (#9) contains the world’s most important graphic collections along with works by Monet, Renoir, Chagall, Miro, Magritte, Munch, Picasso, and more. You can also visit the Albertina – Modern a few blocks away, which is Vienna’s new museum of modern art.

Theater Museum Vienna

I always go out of my way to visit a theater museum (my third novel The Muse of Fire is set in the theater). The collection at the Theater Museum (#10) in Vienna includes over 1,000 stage models, 600 costumes, and a lot of props that bring the history of theater in Austria to life. So much to see!

Jewish Museum (#11)

Learn about Vienna’s Jewish life from the Middle Ages to the present. Check the website for temporary exhibitions.

MAK – Museum of Applied Arts

The MAK (#12) is a “museum for arts and the everyday world.” Its extensive collection focuses on the applied arts and the interface of design, architecture, and contemporary arts. MAK’s permanent collection includes one of the world’s finest collection of lace and glassware, particularly Venetian glass (I’m a sucker for Venetian glass). You’ll also find a collection of textiles and carpets, and lots more. Check the website for current exhibitions.

And here are more fun museums that are great if you’re traveling with kids (or even if you’re not!).

Music Museums in Vienna

Vienna is the City of Music–home to an impressive number of the world’s most famous composers–Beethoven, Mozart, Haydn, Schubert, Strauss, and Mahler. And several more composers stopped by to perform, including Chopin, Liszt, Schumann (Robert and Clara), and Brahms.

A highlight of my solo trip to Vienna was visiting Pasqualati House where Beethoven lived and worked for a while. He changed apartments a lot, apparently.

Carol Cram outside Beethoven Museum in Vienna

Me in front of Vienna’s Pasqualati House, one of the places where Beethoven lived

The top music museums in Vienna include:

  • Beethoven Museum (#13)
  • The House of Music (also known as the House of Sound)(#14), with five floors of first-rate, music-themed exhibits; not to be missed
  • Mozarthaus Museum (#15)

For more information about these and other top music sites in Vienna, read Music Lover’s Guide to Vienna.

Vienna Tours

Here are some GetYourGuide tours of Vienna.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Vienna Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Vienna!

Other recommended posts about Vienna include Artsy Visits to Vienna & Salzburg and Traveling to Vienna – The Waltz Begins.

Have you been to Vienna? What are your favorite museums? Let us know in the comments below.

Compelling Novels Set in Italy Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Destinations, Get Inspired, Italy carolcram 1 Comment on Compelling Novels Set in Italy Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Last updated on October 10th, 2024 at 09:17 pm

So many authors (including myself!) have set novels in Italy–and no wonder! With its rich history, gorgeous landscape, and fascinating cultures, Italy never fails to be inspiring.

In this post, I feature a selection of novels that are not only set in Italy, but also relate in some way to the arts.

The Night Portrait by Laura Morelli

A thrilling dual-time historical novel set in 1492 and World War II about the creation of one of da Vinci’s most famous paintings.

Blood Water Paint by Joy McCullough

Artemisia Gentileschi was one of the most talented painters of the Baroque era and one of the most famous female painters of all time. Her story is riveting.

The Art of Traveling Strangers by Zoe Disigny

One woman’s journey of self-discovery and personal empowerment inspired by the great art masterpieces of Milan, Venice, Ravenna, Florence, Siena, Rome, and Paris.

The Towers of Tuscany by Carol M. Cram

Set in 14th-century San Gimignano and Siena, the novel follows the journey of a woman painter who risks everything to do what she loves.

Vivaldi’s Virgins by Barbara Quick

A fascinating glimpse inside the source of Vivaldi’s musical legacy, combined with the captivating story of an exceptional young woman’s coming of age in a deliciously reminiscent place and time.

Oil and Marble by Stephanie Storey

Stephanie Storey brings early 16th-century Florence alive, entering with extraordinary empathy into the minds and souls of two Renaissance masters–Michelangelo and da Vinci to create a stunning art history thriller. 

The Wedding Shroud by Elisabeth Storrs

The first in the richly-imagined Tales of Ancient Rome trilogy set in the time of the Etruscans.

Lady in Ermine by Donna DiGiuseppe

An historical biographical novel that tells the fascinating story of Renaissance artist Sofonisba Anguissola.

The Most Beautiful Woman in Florence by Alyssa Palombo

A lush and sensual interpretation of Medici Florence, artist Sandro Botticelli, and the muse that inspired them all.

Juliet by Anne Fortier

A young American woman discovers that her family’s origins reach all the way back to literature’s greatest star-crossed lovers.

The Serpent of Venice by Christopher Moore

A gleeful mashup of Shakespeare’s The Merchant of Venice and Othello: Greed, revenge, deception, lust, and a giant (but lovable) sea monster combine to create another hilarious and bawdy tale from modern comic genius, Christopher Moore.

Midnight at the Tuscany Hotel by James Markert

A story of memories lost and found that explores the mysteries of the mind, the truth behind lore, and the miracle of inspiration.

Have you read a novel set in Italy, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts to enjoy as you plan your adventures in Italy:

Food as Art: FireWorks Feast at the Inn at Bay Fortune

Activities, Artsy Sightseeing, Canada, Destinations, Get Inspired, North America carolcram 1 Comment on Food as Art: FireWorks Feast at the Inn at Bay Fortune

Last updated on October 11th, 2024 at 01:24 am

In 2021, I again put my European travel plans on hold and instead travel with my daughter to Nova Scotia and stunning Prince Edward Island. On one magical evening, we splash out on an Experience with a capital E—a stay at the five-star Inn at Bay Fortune and an evening enjoying the FireWorks Feast. Billed as an “immersive farm-to-table dining experience”, the FireWorks Feast is the brainchild of Chef Michael Smith.

As a long-time fan of cooking shows, I was familiar with Chef Michael, one of Canada’s best-known chefs. He and his wife purchased the Inn at Bay Fortune a few years ago and have transformed it into a truly memorable destination.

Is Food Art?

When food is presented like it is at the Inn at Bay Fortune’s FireWorks Feast, I’d say yes. Very much so.

The Inn at Bay Fortune in Prince Edward Island, Canada

Farm Tour at the FireWorks Feast

We arrive at the Inn at 4 pm just in time to grab a drink and head out across the massive lawn overlooking Bay Fortune on the southeast coast of Prince Edward Island to join our fellow FireWorks Feasters for the first leg of the FireWorks Feast Experience.

My daughter, Julia, holds her drink and mine in preparation for the Farm Tour portion of the FireWorks Feast

The Inn’s resident farmer, Kevin Petrie, stands in the middle of a circle of vibrantly painted Muskoka chairs (also known by my U.S. readers as Adirondack chairs) and holds forth about the Inn’s remarkable herb garden.

Raised beds containing herbs on the front lawn of the Inn at Bay Fortune on Prince Edward Island, Canada

Kevin’s talk is the start of an hour-long farm tour that will take us from the front lawn to the extensive farm behind the Inn that features greenhouses, nursery beds, a mushroom patch, apple orchards, and even a Pots & Pans Trail.

Pots and pans hanging on a tree along the Pots & Pans Trail at the Inn at Bay Fortune on Prince Edward Island

Kevin is a font of information about growing organic food. I learn that the cilantro plant yields at least eight edible parts, including roots, leaves, and flowers that each have a different taste and texture. The seeds are called coriander – a tidbit of knowledge I’d vaguely known and have now confirmed.

I also sample a chunk of the crispest, sweetest cucumber I’ve ever tasted—almost crisp and sweet enough to turn me from a cucumber tolerator to a cucumber enthusiast.

Farmer Petrie stands in front of a greenhouse at the Inn at Bay Fortune prior to the FireWorks Feast
Farmer Petrie stands in front of one of several greenhouses on the farm at the Inn at Bay Fortune

I learn that the soil on the farm is like a chocolate layer cake – aerated and full of goodness, spongy, dark, delicious – and a wellspring of nutrition for the plants.

We tour an experimental area called the nursery to view dozens of varieties of tomatoes, some of which are almost black The purpose of the nursery is to discover which tomato varieties work best in the climate and the terroir.

Ah, the terroir – the earth from which the plants spring. Terroir garners tremendous respect, veneration even. The terroir creates the food we put into our bodies to nourish ourselves.

Oyster Hour at the FireWorks Feast

We walk from the farm back toward the Inn to find a tall man with grizzled grey hair tied in a tight ponytail. It’s Chef Michael himself standing with shovel in hand in front of a large, smoky fire on which oysters will soon be roasting.

Chef Michael Smith greets guests in front of roasting oysters at the Inn at Bay Fortune for the FireWorks Feast
Chef Michael Smith greets guests in front of roasting oysters at the Inn at Bay Fortune

An engaging speaker, Chef Michael exudes an infectious enthusiasm and passion for food, for sustainability, and for terroir. He tells us that the oysters we’re about to slurp were harvested in Bay Fortune that very afternoon. No more than a few hours separate their plucking from the sea to Chef Michael’s shucking knife.

We’ve reached the Oyster Hour portion of the evening that is devoted to sampling a variety of appetizers, including as many oysters as we can slurp. First up are oysters dotted with butter and nestled into the coals of the open fire. I select one and suck it back—tasting the sea, of course, but also a warm, smoky, buttery flavor.

Oysters quickly roasted over an open fire are ready for savoring

Raw oysters are offered next, shucked right in front of us by Chef Michael and then dotted with dollops of fresh-chopped tomatoes from the farm. My daughter Julia is not a seafood lover (where did I go wrong?), but she gamely agrees to try her first raw oyster. Chef Michael instructs her—slurp, chew, swallow.

Julia holds the oyster to her lips, closes her eyes and tilts her head back.

And then, in full view of Chef Michael Smith, she spits the oyster back into the shell. Oops! But he is good-humored about it and commends her for at least trying.

Julia has better luck with some of the other appetizers. She enjoys slices of smoked salmon, delicate pink and so fresh as to be practically swimming, served atop a crisp, salty cracker, along lobster mushrooms on a taco with Sriracha  – heat exploding across chewy smoothness.

Julia has better luck with the salmon appetizer

Pre-Feast Toast

After an hour of sampling appetizers, we gather in front of the flagpole on the lawn overlooking Bay Fortune. Chef Michael directs our attention to the large Canadian flag snapping in the wind at half-mast. He alludes to why, but doesn’t explain, evidently trusting that the gathered company already knows. I wonder if they do and hope so. For readers who may not know, most Canadians have flown the flag at half-mast throughout the summer of 2021 in memory of the thousands of indigenous children across Canada who never returned from residential schools.

Chef Michael then proposes a toast with a sparkling, bubbling Prince Edward Island “champagne” (Benjamin Bridge Bubbles). The assembled guests (about 75 people) raise their glasses and then troop gratefully into the airy dining room to enjoy six more courses of the FireWorks Feast. Julia had thought we’d eat to the accompaniment of real fireworks, but no. FireWorks refers, literally, to fire and works, meaning that most of the food we consume has been cooked over fires fed with local wood.

The FireWorks Feast Begins

We are seated at the window – a perfect spot from which we survey the wide expanse of lawn leading to the sparkling waters of Bay Fortune. As the evening progresses, golden light floods across the grass, turning it into a shimmering expanse of brilliant, molten green. Slowly, the sky turns soft pink, then mauve, then indigo as night descends over peaceful Prince Edward Island. A bonfire flares, its bright orange flames a promise of life in the darkness.

Farm, Fires, & Feast booklet at our place setting

Special FireWorks Feast Bread

First up is the bread tree – a metal “tree” in which nestles a small loaf of warm, fresh-baked sourdough bread described as made from 100-year-old naturally fermented heritage flour and baked in a wood oven. It is brown, dense, and sinfully delicious.

A trio of spreads invites extensive investigation. My favorite is the maple brown butter – sweet and creamy, but also light—frothy even. Pork pâté made from a happy pig (that’s what the server said!) is subtly flavored; again, the texture is silky smooth. Finally, I savor a lighter-than-air cheese pâté, the flavors so delicate as to be almost undistinguished.

Our bread tree with a trio of spreads

Although I’m already almost full from the oysters and other scrumptious appies from the Oyster Hour, I nevertheless chow down on two hunks of fresh bread and far too many slatherings of spreads. I know this is a mistake – the bread is only course two of seven. Seven! Already, I need a rest.

A cool white wine from Nova Scotia provides the perfect accompaniment – not too strong, a blend that truly complements the food rather than overpowers it. There is the option to have four pours of four different wines for $75. I am tempted, but decide that even my indulgence quotient has limits.

Soup Swimming with Seafood

Course three is seafood chowder for me and a chicken broth with veggies for Julia. My chowder overflows with plump and sweet scallops and clams, bright orange mussels, dense clumps of crabmeat and lobster, along with haddock, salt cod, beach wort (whatever that is), dulse (seaweed?) and potatoes, all swimming in a delicate creamy broth. The flavors do not overpower. They blend and dance across the palate, inviting slow savoring.

This is not the place to gobble your food.

Seafood chowder at the FireWorks Feast
Delectable seafood chowder

Both of us eat only half our soups, prompting the lovely young server to ask if we liked it. I hastily reassure her that the chowder is spectacular but that I need to leave room. I’d taken Chef Michael’s exhortation to eat as many oysters as we wanted far too seriously and, not wanting to let down the side for western Canada, had eaten three or four too many.

The Best Salad in the World at the FireWorks Feast

The next course is my favorite – all vegetables, and OMG what vegetables! I watch Chef Michael at the open-plan chef station dump fresh greens plucked mere hours earlier from the farm into a massive bowl. Surrounded by an impressive number of earnest-looking and mostly young chefs-in-training, Chef Michael tosses the greens with his hands. The hefty price tag for this foodie experience is feeling increasingly reasonable considering the value we’re getting.

The chefs portion the salad of herbs, shoots, stalks, stems, leaves, buds, fruits, and a plethora of brilliantly colored edible flowers into a bowl for every two people. We also receive an individual plate smeared with root vegetable purées – ash-baked beets, smoked parsnips, and roasted carrots, along with lentil sprouts and something called seedy soil that turns out to be a pleasantly crunchy, sweet and salty garnish I could have eaten all night.

Trio of vegetable purées with lentil sprouts and seedy soil

We are instructed to place a few tongfuls of the greens (studded with popcorn – seriously!) over the plate of pureed vegetables to experience the different textures and tastes.

The parsnip cream is to die for, and I don’t even like parsnips. Even the beets go down a treat – the rich red color alone worth the price of admission. I want to eat every scrap of the greens, but my tummy is starting to groan. How am I going to manage the main course?

But back to the greens – crisp, tart, sweet, earthy, fresh – I feel like I’m eating a garden, which I suppose I am. My favorites are the flowers – startling orange nasturtiums and soft violet pansies that are peppery and sweet and crunchy. I’ve only just discovered the glories of eating flowers and am now a firm convert. Every so often, a leaf from one of the farm’s 26 herb beds—mint, basil, and many more tastes I don’t recognize—glides across my palate like an Olympic speed skater.

Green salad studded with colorful flowers and popcorn at the FireWorks Feast

I reluctantly leave a fair amount of greens in the salad bowl, having practically licked the plate clean of its purée smears, and await the main course. Chef Michael and his crew are hard at work plating the two choices—brisket or halibut. I made the difficult choice when we arrived earlier but was torn. I adore halibut and almost never get it, but brisket! And I figure brisket smoked and prepared by a world-class chef had to be, well, world-class.

Chef Michael Smith preparing a main course
Chef Michael plates the main course

Main Course – FireWorks Beautiful Brisket

The main course arrives, the slabs of brisket and flatiron steak artfully (well, duh) arranged over an intriguing assortment of roasted root vegetables. But alas, my stomach rebels. I can manage only a few nibbles of wonderfully flavored kale and some brisket before having to give up. Would it be completely low-brow to ask for a doggy bag in a place like this? I envision enjoying a slab of the brisket (melt-in-your-mouth, for sure) later that evening. It would taste sooooo good then, whereas now – nope. I am far too full to appreciate it.

The main course is brisket with root vegetables

But as my dad used to say, they’ll not see you again, so I asked our server if I could have the brisket to go and she cheerfully offers to bring me a box. Phew! Later that evening and again for breakfast, I feast on the most tender, flaky, flavorful brisket I’ve ever tasted. Just enough of the salty au jus clings to the meat to give it flavor without overwhelming it.

Always Room for Dessert

Can we manage dessert? Well, of course. Dessert is a different stomach, right? Also, the gap between main course and dessert is, to my relief, long enough to give my system time to re-calibrate.

Dessert is a haskap berry tarragon meringue/sponge cake topped with blueberry cream and a scoop of lemon verbena ice cream. I eat every morsel.

Dessert at the FireWorks Feast

And still we are not done! Over at the chef station, one of the young chefs is affixing rectangles of blueberry marshmallow to the ends of long sticks. Outside the window, the crackling flames of the campfire beckon. We pick up our marshmallow sticks and proceed to the campfire. Melty, blueberry, sticky. Oh yeah!

But unfortunately, swarms of unwelcome guests also show up to enjoy campfire time. We learn the hard way that the mosquitoes on Prince Edward Island are tiny but vicious. Funny – I never remember reading about mosquitoes feasting on Anne of Green Gables.

The Morning After

Before checking out the next morning, I take a copy of my novel Love Among the Recipes to Reception and ask that it be given to Chef Michael as a thank-you for a wondrous experience. The woman at the desk tells me I can give it to him myself since he’s just around the corner in the dining room working on the evening menu.

Feeling a trifle presumptuous, I nevertheless present Chef Michael with my novel. He graciously accepts, telling me he thinks it looks like something he and his wife would enjoy. I’m honored, and float away from the Inn feeling that our Prince Edward Island splurge is one for the memory books.

Novel called "Love Among the Recipes" by Carol M. Cram
Love Among the Recipes finds a new home at The Inn at Bay Fortune

If you’re traveling to Prince Edward Island during the summer months, consider spending the night at the Inn at Bay Fortune and an evening enjoying the FireWorks Feast. You’ll come away with a renewed appreciation for fresh and nutritious food grown with love.

Six Favorite Regions in France

Destinations, France, Get Inspired carolcram Leave a Comment on Six Favorite Regions in France

Last updated on October 11th, 2024 at 05:21 am

I’ve traveled in almost every region of France and each has much to offer. But if I had to narrow down my choices to just six regions that I recommend to artsy-inclined travelers, I’d choose Normandy, Brittany, Loire, Dordogne (part of Aquitaine), Provence/Côte d’Azur, and of course Paris.

This post presents an overview of my six favorite regions with links to more detailed posts. If you want to really explore these regions, consider renting a car. My post on Driving in Europe gives you some pointers gleaned from our three decades of experience exploring Europe by car.

Map of France showing recommended regions to explore in France
Recommended regions to explore in France

Normandy

Rolling fields, picture-perfect villages, and searing World War II history make Normandy an awesome destination.

We lived for two months at an artist-in-residence place a few years ago. When we weren’t being artists in residence, we spent several happy days exploring this under-touristed area.

Recommended must-sees include the World War II beaches, the charming towns of Honfleur (Satie Museum) and Bayeux (Bayeux tapestry), Mont St. Michel, and the far-off-the-beaten track region of the Perche.

View of the stunning white chalk cliffs of Étretat in Normandy
The stunning area of Étretat was a favorite of Monet’s

Consider visiting Normandy on a guided tour from Paris. Tours include the Normandy D-Day Beaches and the Abbaye du Mont Saint-Michel.

For more details about what to see and do in Normandy, see Top Normandy Sights for Art & History Lovers. I also include Honfleur on the Normandy coast in my post on 17 Awesome Places in France You Might Not Know.

Top Normandy Sights to Excite Art & History Lovers

Top Normandy Sights to Excite Art & History Lovers

Normandy has many wonderful sights to offer the artsy traveler. Here you’ll find charming villages, beaches steeped in history, quirky ...
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17 Must-See Places to Visit in France You Should Know About

17 Must-See Places to Visit in France You Should Know About

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Brittany

Gregg and I adore Brittany. We just do! Every time we visit France, we say We really ought to spend more time in Brittany.

I recommend visiting Brittany in the summer when the weather is pleasantly warm rather than torrid like it is farther south. Beautiful sandy beaches vie for your attention with craggy coves and spectacular rock formations.

Visit beautiful Saint-Malo, hear snippets of the Breton language that is still spoken in the far west, and search out prehistoric stone circles.

Côte de granit rose in northern Brittany
Côte de granit rose in northern Brittany

In addition to being physically gorgeous, Brittany is also home to France’s most concentrated collection of Celtic and prehistoric sites. Standing stones abound in this history-steeped region. Check out my post on Prehistory Sites in Europe that includes several places in Brittany.

Consider at least a week’s stay or better still, three or four days on the north coast around Trégastel and three or four days on the south coast near Carnac.

The Loire Valley

Châteaux are exceedingly thick on the ground in the Loire Valley thanks to the Loire Atlantique region being the playground for the kings of France until kings rather suddenly went out of fashion.

Château of Chenonceau in the Loire Valley
Château of Chenonceau in the Loire Valley

Spend a week here to tour not only the big (and crowded) blockbuster châteaux like Chambord and Chenonceau, but also the more intimate, even quirky ones like Villandry and Azay-Le-Rideau.

In addition to châteaux-hopping, consider an extended stay in the Loire Valley because, let’s face it, the region is drop-dead gorgeous. Rent a bike or go on a walking tour to immerse yourself in the fairy tale landscape. Also, the food in the Loire is exceptional (and that’s saying something!).

If your time is limited, consider a day trip from Paris to tour at least a few of the châteaux.

The Dordogne Valley

The Dordogne is an excellent choice for two reasons: prehistoric caves and amazing food. Don’t miss the cave art sites scattered throughout the region including the super-famous (and justifiably so) Caves of Lascaux. I talk about them in more depth (ha, ha!) in my post on Prehistory Sites in Europe.

If you have a hankering for gorgeous scenery mixed with compelling prehistory sightseeing followed by long, slow dinners where duck often plays a role, then meander down to the Dordogne.

Red-roofed village in the Dordogne region of France
Gorgeous villages are waiting to be explored in the Dordogne

Provence

I dare you to say Provence without sighing!

Ah, Provence! See?

Lavender fields in the Luberon region of Provence
Enjoy lavender fields like this in the Luberon region of Provence

Like Tuscany, Provence has earned its reputation as one of Europe’s most beautiful regions. Settle in for a good long visit to discover why so many artists made their homes here (Picasso, van Gogh, Renoir, Cezanne, Lèger, Matisse, and I’m sure I’m forgetting a bunch).

I think it has a lot to do with the light. Every time Gregg and I visit Provence, Gregg is inspired by the unique way in which light floods a landscape of sharp contrasts—soft greens and lavenders, hard whites and ochers, startling blues.

Provence is big enough to deserve a two-week stay, or at least a week divided in two. I suggest enjoying the Luberon region for a week and then driving down to the Riviera to hang with the beautiful people (and see a ton of art).

View of blue water and mountains on the Cote d'Azur in the south of France
Spend some time on the fabled Riviera in the south of France

In recent years, the Luberon has become rather “chichi”, as in scores of well-heeled people driving nice cars and living in lavender-coated villas, but the food is still wonderful, the weather warm, and the landscape stunning.

Provence is home to the Fondation Maeght, one of my favorite small art museums in Europe. Read about it in my post on Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe. My post on Six Single-Artist Museums in Europe also includes two single-artist museums in France–the Fondation Vasarely and the Musée National Fernand Léger in Biot.

Seven Super Single-Artist Museums in Europe You Should Visit

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Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, Spain, one of the top ten modern art museums in Europe

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Paris

If you’re planning your first visit to France, Paris will likely be on your itinerary. It’s a must-see city in Europe if you are in any way artsy inclined.

Paris is home to dozens of art museums and galleries in addition to the big-ticket sights like the Eiffel Tower (go early or late to avoid the crowds), the Arc de Triomphe, and the Champs-Élysées.

View of the Eiffel Tower and the Seine River in Paris
Le Tour Eiffel–see it early or late to avoid crowds

To truly appreciate Paris, rent an apartment and settle in for the long haul. For the entire month of March one year, Gregg and I stayed in an apartment in Montparnasse. We spent our mornings painting (him) and writing (me) before setting out almost every afternoon to explore the artsy delights of Paris.

We never ran out of things to see then or on subsequent trips. In fact, a stopover in Paris has been on our itinerary for almost all of our dozen-plus trips to Europe. Here are four posts related to Paris.

Love Among the Recipes: Paris Sights & Bistro Dishes

Love Among the Recipes: Paris Sights & Bistro Dishes

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Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris

Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris

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Take a Cooking Class in Paris

Take a Cooking Class in Paris

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Best Cathedrals in Europe to Delight the Artsy Traveler

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And here are some suggestions for things to see, skip-the-line tickets, and tours in Paris.

What Regions of France are Your Favorites?

Do you have a favorite region of France that I’ve left out? Please let us know and if you have any

Woman reading a book with the Eiffel Tower in the background

Compelling Novels Set in France Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Destinations, France, Get Inspired carolcram 1 Comment on Compelling Novels Set in France Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Last updated on October 10th, 2024 at 09:20 pm

When I travel in France, I enjoy reading novels that are set in France and that relate in some way to the arts. Do you enjoy reading novels set in the places you travel to? In this post, I feature a selection of novels that are not only set in France, but also relate in some way to the arts. I also share some of my favorite France guidebooks.

Villa America by Liza Klaussmann

In the 1920s, a dazzling cast of characters including Pablo Picasso, Cole Porter, Ernest Hemingway, John Dos Passos and F. Scott Fitzgerald gather at a villa in Cap d’Antibe.

Leaving Van Gogh by Carol Wallace

The mysteries surrounded the death of Vincent van Gogh in the summer of 1890 and an indelible portrait of his final day are meticulously explored in this riveting novel.

The Last Collection by Jeanne Mackin

An American woman living in Paris as WWII looms becomes entangled in the intense rivalry between iconic fashion designers Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli.

The Little Paris Bookshop by Nina George

Monsieur Perdu runs a bookshop on a barge in the Seine in Paris. He can prescribe the perfect book for a broken heart. But can he fix his own?

Paris 7 a.m. by Liza Wieland

The story of what happened to poet Elizabeth Bishop during three life-changing weeks spent in Paris amidst the imminent threat of World War II

Drawing Lessons by Patricia Sands

The author of the Love in Provence series returns with a poignant portrait of a woman who must learn how to create a new life for herself.

Becoming George Sand by Rosalind Brackenbury

This richly detailed dural-time novel explores past and present, the personal and the historic, and sensuality, responsibility and the mystery of love through the lens of the life story of George Sand, the maverick French novelist whose many lovers included the composer Frederic Chopin.

Love Among the Recipes by Carol M. Cram

Discover love in all its flavors in this fun, food-infused romp through Paris that is as crisp, sweet, and smooth as the perfect macaron. To follow the main character’s journey through Paris, check out this post.

The Postmistress of Paris by Meg Waite Clayton

Listed in the Photography category on Art In Fiction, The Postmistress of Paris revisits the dark early days of the German occupation in France and is inspired by the real-life Chicago heiress Mary Jayne Gold.

Love Letters from Montmartre by Nicolas Barreau

For fans of Nina George, Elena Ferrante, and Valentina Cebeni, a charming, uplifting novel about a man who sets out to fulfil his dead wife’s last wish.

The Lost Manuscript by Cathy Bonidan

A charming epistolary novel about the love of books and magical ability they have to bring people together. When Anne-Lise Briard reserves a room at the Beau Rivage Hotel for her vacation on the Brittany coast, she has no idea this trip will start her on the path to unearthing a mystery.

The Paris Hours by Alex George

Paris of the 1920s and 30s teems with artists, writers, and musicians, a shining crucible of creative genius. But amidst the sparkling creativity of the city’s most famous citizens, four ordinary people each search for something they’ve lost.

The Paris Library by Janet Skeslien Charles

An historical novel based on the true story of the American Library in Paris. In Paris in 1939, Odile Souchet stands to lose everything she holds dear—including her beloved library. After the Nazis march into the City of Light and declare a war on words, Odile and her fellow librarians join the Resistance with the best weapons they have: books.

The Paris Apartment by Kelly Bowen

2017, London: When Aurelia Leclaire inherits a lavish Paris apartment, she is shocked to discover her grandmother’s treasure trove of famous art and couture gowns. One obscure painting leads her to Gabriel Seymour, a highly respected art restorer with his own mysterious past. Together they attempt to uncover the truths concealed within the apartment’s walls.

Guidebooks on France

My preferred guidebook writer, hands down, is Rick Steves. I’m not alone in my admiration for Rick’s thoughtfully organized and thorough travel guides. I’ve often seen travelers with one of Rick’s blue and yellow books tucked under their arms, spurring more than a few good conversations when we’ve discovered our mutual admiration for Rick. Here’s a link to Rick’s latest guidebook on France.

Have you read a novel set in France, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts to enjoy as you plan your adventures in France:

Visit Vienna & Salzburg: Best Tips for Artsy Sightseeing Options

Artsy Sightseeing, Austria, Destinations, Get Inspired carolcram Leave a Comment on Visit Vienna & Salzburg: Best Tips for Artsy Sightseeing Options

Last updated on October 6th, 2024 at 10:37 pm

Visit Vienna and Salzburg to enjoy some of Europe’s quintessentially artsy travel opportunities. Concerts, world-class museums, and incredible art await. If you’re a classical music fan (Mozart, Beethoven, Strauss, oh my!), you’ll be in 7th heaven.

Find out why I recommend travel to Vienna and Salzburg in this post!

I first visited Austria on a skiing holiday in 1975 and fondly remember the friendliness of the people and the gorgeous Tyrolean scenery in the ski resort town of Sölden. Since then, I’ve spent most of my Austria sightseeing time in Salzburg and Vienna (my particular favorite). In fact, my second novel A Woman of Note about a female composer in the 1830s is set in Vienna.

Map of Austria showing major cities Salzburg and Vienna

Artsy Sightseeing in Salzburg

When I first visited Salzburg with my family, I drove them crazy (short drive) with my constant references to my favorite musical of all time–The Sound of Music.

Yes, I know. It’s sentimental and over-the-top, but I loved it when I first saw it in the theater as a child and I still watch it every few Christmases. Those songs just don’t get old.

I threatened to embarrass my family by breaking into song at strategic locations.

To their relief, I never did, but I was rather surprised to discover that The Sound of Music was not always popular in Salzburg. On my first visit in 1999, I could find only a small pamphlet about the movie in the gift shop at the castle (AKA the Hohensalzburg Fortress shown below–one of Salzburg’s major attractions).

The Hohensalzburg Fortress looms above the rooftops of the Baroque historical district.

All that has changed. You can find information about shooting locations on the official Salzburg website and you can take Sound of Music tours. According to the website, more than 300,000 fans visit Salzburg every year to walk in the footsteps of the von Trapp family in the original shooting locations.

Touring Salzburg

We loved wandering around Salzburg. It’s a stunningly beautiful small city dominated by the Hohensalzburg Fortress. Apparently, the fortress is the largest preserved castle in central Europe and has become the symbol of Salzburg as the City of Mozart.

You can visit the Fortress year round. Tour the Fortress Museum to view historical exhibits about courtly life, the Marionette Museum, and the Altes Zeughaus which has interactive displays focused on the development of cannons, armaments and firearms (not really artsy, but interesting nonetheless!).

Part of the fun of a visit to Salzburg is riding the funicular from the Festungsgasse. Admission is included with the Salzburg card. Go early to beat the crowds (always good advice with popular tourist attractions in Europe).

Hohensalzburg Fortress in Salzburg

Mozart in Salzburg

One big reason people visit Salzburg is to worship at the feet of Mozart who was born there in 1756.

If you’re visiting Salzburg, you can’t help but notice its love affair with its most famous son, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. He was born in Salzburg on January 27, 1756 and died on December 5, 1791 in Vienna at the age of 35. Mozart wrote over 600 works, including symphonies, concertos, chamber music, operas, and choral music. Ask anyone to name a great composer and chances are if they don’t say Beethoven or Bach, they’ll say Mozart. 

Salzburg styles itself as the City of Mozart. If you like Mozart-themed chocolates and other souvenirs, you’ve come to the right place (you’ll also find them in Vienna!).

Statue of Mozart in Vienna, Austria
Mozart is everywhere in Salzburg. Take a tour!

The big Mozart attraction is Mozart’s House at No. 9 Getreidegasse in the heart of Salzburg’s old city. Tour the house to see items of everyday life from the period, memorabilia that documents Mozart’s life in Salzburg, and several historical instruments.

To get the lay of the land quickly, consider signing up for the City Center Bus Tour and Mozart’s House. The tour also includes visits to filming locations for The Sound of Music.

Concert-Going in Austria

For me, attending concerts in Austria has two benefits.

First, I get to hear awesome music played by local orchestras, often in the concert halls where the music was first performed. I get goosebumps listening to a concert of Mozart’s work just steps from the house in which he was born.

Second, concerts that are part of local festivals are generally tourist-free. Plenty of tourists attend the special Strauss/Mozart concerts put on for the bus tour groups. These tourist concerts are great, don’t get me wrong. But if you want to be one of the few people in the audience who isn’t a local, check out the many musical festivals and concerts that attract a primarily Austrian crowd.

On the other hand, this strategy can backfire if you don’t do as the Austrians do. Let me explain!

A Tourist Faux Pas at a Concert in Salzburg

One year, we snagged tickets to a concert at the International Mozarteum Foundation building (Internationale Stiftung Mozarteum) in Salzburg. The concert was called Sturm und Drang (Storm and Struggle) and featured piano pieces by Liszt. Anticipating a fiery afternoon of pyrotechnic piano playing, we happily entered the ornate concert room and took our seats.

Within minutes, we became acutely aware that we stood out like stupid-tourist sore thumbs. Although the day was searingly hot, every single person in the audience wore formal dress. The men were decked out either in tuxedos complete with cummerbunds or in full dress uniforms, medals sparkling. The women shimmered in long evening dresses and dripped with pearls and diamonds as they swished into their seats.

Gregg wore ratty, paint-daubed shorts and a T-shirt, Julia wore pink shorts and a grubby T-shirt (hey, we were on holiday–who does laundry?), and I wore my decidedly hippy-dippy, no-crease travel dress. We looked like country bumpkins.

We also seriously miscalculated the appeal of the program. The music was by Liszt all right, but most of the program consisted of delicate, gossamer settings of Schubert’s lieder. The music was beautiful, no doubt about it, but it was also really, really, really slow. After fifteen minutes of trying desparately to look entranced, I wanted nothing more than to curl into a ball under my chair and snooze away the afternoon hidden from the disapproving gaze of all those well-dressed Austrians. And as for twelve-year-old Julia, who, despite our best efforts at the time, was not much of a classical music fan, sitting still in the oppressive heat was agony.

We left at the interval.

That said, don’t let our experience put you off investigating concerts while you’re traveling, especially in Austria where music concerts are as common as lunch.

Tours and Tickets in Salzburg

Here are some options in Salzburg:

Staying in Salzburg

Salzburg is not a large town, but save your legs and stay somewhere in the old town center so you can walk to all the attractions. You’ll pay more, but the convenience will be worth the extra euros. Check the map below for some options.

Booking.com

Artsy Sightseeing in Vienna

Vienna is one of Europe’s loveliest cities. It’s small enough to be easily walkable, at least in the charming city center. And there’s a lot to see, particularly if you enjoy art and music.

Vienna has been ranked by consulting firm Mercer as the most livable city in the world for ten years running.

Quick side note: My home town of Vancouver, Canada was recently ranked number 3 in the same survey. I think we have Vienna beat for scenery and recreation, but Vienna is head and shoulders above Vancouver when it comes to world-class museums and cultural events. And Vienna’s laid-back ambience, historic coffee houses and slabs of sachertorte are also features that Vancouver can’t compete with.

Getting Around Vienna

In Vienna, consider purchasing a Vienna City Card & Airport Transfer ticket before you leave home. I pre-purchased my transportation tickets and was very glad I did because I never did figure out how to pay for the trams. Fortunately, I had my city card so if I was stopped (I never was), I was legit.

A smooth train whisks you from the airport to the center of Vienna in just 16 minutes. You can then catch public transit from the U. Look for the blue U signs at the entrances to the subway stations.

Sign for the U train--the subway in Vienna
Sign for the U train–the subway in Vienna

On both my trips to Vienna, I spent a lot of time walking around the cobbled streets and people-watching. Stephansplatz in the center of Vienna is the perfect place to hang out and watch the action.

Cityscape image of Vienna, Austria with St. Michael's Square at sunrise
Cityscape image of Vienna, Austria with St. Michael’s Square at sunrise

For an entertaining overview of my first day in Vienna as a solo traveler, check out Traveling to Vienna: The Waltz Begins.

Music is a major reason to visit Vienna. My Music Lover’s Guide to Vienna provides a great deal of information about enjoying music in Vienna. You’ll also find plenty of other arts-related sightseeing opportunities in Vienna.

Museums in Vienna

Vienna has an amazing number of first-rate museums. In fact, it has an entire Museum Quarter. If you are a museum-goer, you might not emerge for days.

Consider purchasing a Vienna PASS. You can use it to skip the line at popular attractions, get free admission to over 60 attractions including the Belvedere Palace and St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and ride the hop-on hop-off sightseeing bus. It’s a pretty good deal and saves you time.

A less expensive option is the Vienna Flexi PASS that allows you to customize your itinerary. I haven’t used either pass, but in my experience, such passes can be good value. Check exactly which attractions they offer to calculate if they’ll save you money.

Read my suggestions for touring Museums in Vienna.

Concerts in Vienna

Be sure to enjoy a concert or two while in Vienna. You can purchase tickets from Mozart-costumed touts in Stephansplatz for the tourist shows, or go online and find local concerts.

Also check the web for music festivals and concerts being presented during your time in Austria. Every time I’ve visited Austria, I’ve found a classical music festival–or two–to attend. You can also look for performances by the state opera, the Vienna Boys’ Choir, and the Vienna Philharmonic. If music is your thing, visit Vienna during the season–from about October to May.

Tours and Tickets in Vienna

Here are some other options for sightseeing in Vienna.

Staying in Vienna

Vienna is an expensive city. Expect to pay €250-400 or more for a centrally located, good-quality hotel room in Vienna. When you’re looking for accommodation in Vienna, choose places within the old city walls.

You could opt for a budget hotel on the outskirts but I don’t recommend doing so. You’ll waste too much time commuting through dreary suburbs into the wonderful city center. Spend the money and book a good hotel in the old city.

I made the mistake of being budget conscious to a fault on one trip to Vienna when I booked an apartment about a 40-minute tram ride from the city center. Sure, the place was inexpensive, but the hot water ran out on the second day and it was located in a nondescript neighborhood, kilometers from the action.

For a giggle, read about that misadventure in Robbie Bubble, an excerpt from Pastel & Pen: Travels in Europe that I wrote and my husband Gregg illustrated.

Apartments can be a good bet in Vienna, but again, book one in the center of the city. You’ll find excellent ones listed on HomeAway and on Booking.com. Click on the map below to find places to stay in Vienna.

Booking.com

Have you traveled to Vienna and Salzburg? Share your experiences and recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Compelling Novels Set in Austria Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Artsy Sightseeing, Austria, Destinations, Get Inspired carolcram Leave a Comment on Compelling Novels Set in Austria Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Last updated on October 15th, 2024 at 12:02 am

Read novels set in Austria to get you excited about your trip or, even better, to read while you’re there. Numerous authors have been inspired to set novels in Austria, particularly novels inspired by Austria’s rich cultural heritage.

Each of the novels listed in this post relates in some way to the arts–from Klimt to Mozart to Beethoven. The rich cultural life of Vienna has inspired many authors (including me!). Many are set in the late 18th century when Mozart, Hadyn, and Beethoven walked the streets of Vienna, or at the end of the 19th century starring such luminaries as Klimt and Mahler.

And yes, one of the novels set in Austria is mine! A Woman of Note is my second novel. I spent several days in Vienna researching it. Walking in the footsteps of Beethoven, attending concerts, and drinking in the culture of Vienna left me with many cherished memories.

Read about my solo Vienna adventures in Traveling to Vienna – The Waltz Begins. To get an overview of Austria, check out Visiting Austria: My Best Tips for Enjoying an Artsy Trip.

Ecstasy by Mary Sharratt

Set in Vienna a century ago, this tale of Alma Mahler, wife of the composer Gustav Mahler and a composer herself, is part cautionary tale, part triumph of the feminist spirit.

Stolen Beauty by Laurie Lico Albanese

In the dazzling glitter of Vienna at the turn of the last century, Adele Bloch-Bauer—young, beautiful, brilliant, and Jewish—meets painter Gustav Klimt and begins a passionate affair.

Caught in the Light by Robert Goddard

Photography illuminates this simple tale of a lonely man searching for his lover; a complex study of obsessions, set in Austria and spanning two centuries.

Mozart’s Last Aria by Matt Rees

In 18th-century Vienna, Mozart’s estranged sister, Nannerl, stumbles into a world of ambition, conspiracy, and immortal music while trying to discover the truth about her brother’s death. 

A Woman of Note by Carol M. Cram

An intricately crafted and fascinating tale about a woman composer in 1830s Vienna struggling to find her soul’s song in a dissonant world.

A Minor Deception by Nupur Tustin

The great composer himself is cast as an amateur sleuth in 18th-century Vienna in this first in a series of Joseph Haydn mysteries. If you love this one, you’ll be glad to know there are two more!

Aria to Death by Nupur Tustin

In Book 2 of the Joseph Haydn mystery series, Kapellmeister Joseph Haydn receives a curious a message from Kaspar, an impoverished violinist with an ailing wife, asking Haydn to evaluate a collection of scores reputed to be the lost operas of Monteverdi. But before he can examine the works, Kaspar is murdered—beaten and left to die in front of a wine tavern.

Prussian Counterpoint by Nupur Tustin

In Book 3 of the Joseph Haydn mystery series, Hadyn receives an unexpected invitation from wily King Frederick. Worse still, the invitation appears to stir up suspicion in the highest quarters in Vienna—so much so that a mysterious cloaked lady visits Haydn’s Music Room and issues a thinly veiled threat.

The Woman in the Moonlight by Patricia Morrisroe

A stirring and romantic historical novel about 19th-century Vienna and the tragedy and dynamic passion that inspired Beethoven to write his beloved Moonlight Sonata.

An Equal Music by Vikram Seth

When an English quartet, the Maggiore, undertakes a challenging work of Beethoven’s, violinist Michael Holme is overwhelmed by memories of mastering the piece as a student in Vienna. That’s also where he met Julia McNicholl, a pianist whose beauty was as mesmerizing as her musical genius and whom Michael loved with an intensity he never found again.

Beethoven’s Tenth by Richard Kluger

When the assistant manager of a hardware store in rural New Jersey shows up at the offices of Cubbage & Wakeham, an elite New York auction house, with a worn musical manuscript he hopes to sell for a small (or perhaps hefty) fortune, he is greeted with subdued snickers—not surprisingly. The title page of the document reads, “William Tell: A Dramatic Symphony” and is signed “Ludwig van Beethoven.”

The Vienna Melody by Ernst Lothar

Christopher Alt, piano maker, is the best in Vienna, probably in all of Austria and possibly the world. His piano keys have given life to melodies by Mozart, Haydn, Beethoven, and many others. On his deathbed, he leaves a will specifying that his descendants, if they are to get their inheritance, must live together in the family home. Over successive generations of the Alt family, history itself passes through the doors, down the halls, and into the private rooms of the Alts’ building.

Want more novels set in Austria? You’ll find many more on Art In Fiction, the website I created to showcase novels inspired by the arts.

Guidebooks About Austria

My favorite travel writer, Rick Steves, of course has produced an excellent guidebook on Austria. Rick’s suggestions are pretty much always on the mark. I also enjoy Lonely Planet books for their comprehensive accommodation guides, particularly for budget places.

Conclusion

Have you read a novel set in Austria, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Check out these posts that provide suggestions for what to read in other European countries:

View of the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo in Rome

A Hidden Gem: The Church of Santa Maria del Popolo in Rome

Artsy Sightseeing, Destinations, Italy carolcram 2 Comments on A Hidden Gem: The Church of Santa Maria del Popolo in Rome

Last updated on October 15th, 2024 at 03:48 am

By Guest Poster Andie Easton, author of the Clued In Travel Books –

The walnut tree is the reason the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo was built.

Every Roman citizen knew about the tree and the large number of black crows–an unnatural number–that clung to its branches every day. And it was common knowledge that the tree had everything to do with the Emperor Nero.

In the Renaissance, people wondered why the crows always flocked to that particular tree. It was unnerving, especially to the merchants and officials who used the Flaminia roadway which led north out of Rome. They had to pass right by the tree because the city’s walled gate was next to it.

They were convinced that the shiny, black, rustling tree caused bad luck. Mishaps on their various journeys only confirmed this. They became so fearful of the evil that inhabited the area that they finally demanded the Church fathers do something about it.

Every Roman citizen knew about the tree and the large number of black crows–an unnatural number–that clung to its branches every day. And it was common knowledge that the tree had everything to do with the Emperor Nero.

In the Renaissance, people wondered why the crows always flocked to that particular tree. It was unnerving, especially to the merchants and officials who used the Flaminia roadway which led north out of Rome. They had to pass right by the tree because the city’s walled gate was next to it. They were convinced that the shiny, black, rustling tree caused bad luck. Mishaps on their various journeys only confirmed this. They became so fearful of the evil that inhabited the area that they finally demanded the Church fathers do something about it.

Origins of Santa Maria del Popolo

There are many reasons why the churches in Rome were built and many reasons for their chosen locations. The church of Santa Maria del Popolo is located on the site of the walnut tree that grew over the very spot where the despised Nero’s body had been unceremoniously buried some 1500 years earlier. Nero obviously now haunted the place; people had seen him there. Only a church built on that spot would calm the populace. And it needed to be made important. If the Pope recognized the church, it would become a Basilica.

The order eventually came down from Pope Paschal II. The situation had become a social scandal, and this was his official solution. Important artists must be commissioned to decorate its side chapels and ceiling. The artistic works created for it would need to spring from such important themes that even God would notice it.

For the project, the Church recruited renowned artists Caravaggio, Raphael, and Bernini, who all enjoyed fame during their lifetimes. (Well, Caravaggio was definitely known, but not necessarily for his art.) If you’re unfamiliar with these gentlemen artists of the 16th century, I must tell you that they are very famous in the art world. Legendary, even.

What’s Special about Santa Maria del Popolo

In situ is Latin for “in place” and is the term given for paintings, mosaics, frescoes, and sculptures that are still in the exact spot for which they were commissioned, for where they were designed to be. It is always special when one views something in situ, especially a major work.

And that is why I love Santa Maria del Popolo. It lays claim to two Caravaggio paintings, sculptures by Bernini, and a mosaic ceiling designed by Raphael. These creations have remained undisturbed in their precise positions. They could have easily been moved to some world-class museum or other, to bolster their daily visitation numbers and be celebrated at members-only cocktail events that the press would cover with uneducated glee. But something even more amazing happened: the works stayed where they were and as a result are almost unknown.

Location of Santa Maria del Popolo on the Piazza del Popolo

Located a bit out of the way at the north end of Piazza del Popolo, Santa Maria del Popolo sits quietly, without banners or signs. One would never know that it displays mind-boggling, priceless art. The masterpieces are not featured in any special way. You must actually go looking for them.

Church of Santa Maria del Popolo, Pufui PcPifpef, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

In the Chigi Chapel, you’ll find products of the genius of both Raphael and Bernini. Raphael obviously based his mosaic ceiling on the most important theme he could think of, The Creation of the World. It is so incredible that even as you are staring at it, your eyes tell you that it’s a painting, not a mosaic.

Raphael, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Statues by Bernini

All the amazing statues in this chapel are by Bernini. If you’re not familiar with Bernini, you’ll want to check out more of his beautiful statues, mostly notably those in the Borghese Gallery in the lovely Borghese Gardens in Rome.

Peter1936F, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

In the Cherasi chapel, you’ll find the two astounding canvas paintings by Caravaggio positioned directly opposite one another—the  sensual Conversion on the Way to Damascus and the gut-wrenching Crucifixion of Saint Peter.

Conversion on the Way to Damascus, Caravaggio, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The theme of Peter (as in the apostle Peter of Vatican fame) being crucified upside down in Rome as the Bible describes is not a theme that many artists favor. Perhaps that’s because it is simply too horrific. Caravaggio was not afraid of much, it appears, and clearly threw caution to the wind.

Crucifixion of Saint Peter, Caravaggio, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Visiting Santa Maria del Popolo

You’ll be surprised at the lack of visitors inside the Basilica; you may well be the only one. The reason is simply that most people don’t know about the place or what makes it special, even after being featured in Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons.

The Church of Santa Maria del Popolo is located at 12 Piazza del Popolo, next to the north stone gate and is free to enter. It’s open daily with sporadic hours; check their website for the days of your visit: rome.net/santa-maria-del-popolo. Avoid visiting on a Sunday during Holy Mass because you won’t be allowed to freely wander. Phone: Intl. calling: (011) 39-06-631-0836 / Local calling: 06-631-0836

Happy travels,

Andie Easton

Read about Andie Easton and her wonderful series of books!

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in Rome.

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Rome Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Rome!