17 Must-See Places to Visit in France You Should Know About

As the largest country in western Europe, France has more than its fair share of amazing places to visit.

I’ve been going to France since 1970 when, at the age of 14, I traveled around Europe with my mother on a budget of about $10 a day (you can read about that trip in My Story. This amount covered our hotels, city tours, meals, and probably even our Eurail passes. I don’t remember exactly because I wasn’t paying the bill.

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Since then, I’ve returned to France numerous times—both alone and with Gregg (usually with Gregg). In the past ten years, we’ve visited France together eight times, bringing my lifetime total to 17 visits.

So if you’re wondering why I’m listing 17 places to visit in France, now you know! I want to celebrate my 17 visits to France by listing my 17 quirky, fascinating, amazing favorites. Each holds special memories for me that I want to share with other artsy travelers.

Carol Cram in Normandy countryside
In the Normandy countryside about an hour south of Honfleur, one of my 17 Awesome Places in France

Map of France Showing My 17 Choices

The map below shows my 17 choices in the order in which I mention them, starting with Honfleur (#1) and ending with the Fontainebleau Forest (#17). If you have wheels, you could easily string together an around-France itinerary using these 17 places as stop-over points.

I also include a Google map showing the location of each individual place following its description in the post.

Making the List

You may not have heard of all of theses places to visit in France, but each is worth a visit.

For a place to make my list, it needed to have an artsy component, be beautiful (not hard to do in France), and be off the beaten path. As a result, you won’t find the big name places like Paris, Nice, and Lyon on the list (fabulous though they are).

Ready to check out my 17 favorite places to visit in France? Here they are, starting with Honfleur on the Normandy coast northwest of Paris and going in a more or less counter-clockwise direction to take in Brittany, the Loire Valley, the Dordogne, the south of France, the east of France and ending at the Fontainebleau Forest just south of Paris.

#1: Honfleur, Normandy

A few years ago, Gregg and I were fortunate to be artists-in-residence at a gallery located in the Perche region of central Normandy. For two months when we weren’t painting (Gregg) and writing (me), we explored this beautiful and untrammeled area. Although close to Paris, peaceful rural Normandy feels like another country.

On one trip, we went north to the gorgeous little town of Honfleur on the Normandy coast. To our delight, Honfleur was packed with artsy sites.

What is Special About Honfleur as Place to Visit in France?

Art Galleries in Honfleur

First of all, if you’re looking to purchase art, Honfleur is renowned for its galleries. You can spend many happy hours browsing the offerings in the galleries lining the streets leading to the harbor.

From an architectural perspective, Honfleur has much to offer. The Church of St. Catherine on the town square was built entirely of wood in the late 15th century by shipwrights. Wander through the church to view its many decorative details.

Church of St. Catherine in Honfleur, Normandy. Honfleur is one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France.
Church of St. Catherine in Honfleur, Normandy

The Vieux-Bassin

You’ll eventually end up at the harbor (the vieux-bassin), surely one of the most stunning sights in Normandy. The distinctive high and narrow timber-frame houses are reflected in the still water of the boat-filled harbor.

We spent quite a bit of time walking along the harborfront enjoying the gorgeous views and stopping for a dinner of moules et frites (mussels and fries) along with local wine.

The Vieux-Bassin in Honfleur harbor is lined with wonderful cafés. It's one of my recommended places to visit in France
The Vieux-Bassin in Honfleur harbor is lined with wonderful cafés.

Museums in Honfleur

Two museums in Honfleur are particularly attractive to the Artsy Museum.

First up is the Musée Eugène Boudin, named after the painter Boudin who was born in Honfleur. The museum exhibits an impressive collection of Boudin’s paintings along with works by other artists who have visited or are closely associated with Honfleur, including some big names: Courbet, Dufy, and Monet (you’ve probably heard of him!).

As a side note, Honfleur is not far from Étretat which we also visited. Courbet, Boudin and Monet each painted these cliffs.

Alabaster Coast at Etretat.  Aval cliff. Normandy, France, one of my recommended places to visit in France
Alabaster Coast at Étretat. Aval cliff. Normandy, France.

But our favorite of the two museums we visited in Honfleur is the entrancingly eccentric Maisons Satie. Housed in the birthplace of the composer and darling of the Dadaists, Erik Satie (1866-1925), the museum takes you on an interactive tour of Satie’s music.

Armed with an audio guide, you prowl through dark rooms and activate various musical themes from Satie’s work. It’s a playhouse for music-loving grownups that puts the q in quirky.

If you love Satie’s music (Gymnopedies and Gnossienne are his most famous works), then don’t miss this wacky, wonderful museum.

Getting to Honfleur

Map showing location of Honfleur northwest of Paris
Location of Honfleur northwest of Paris

Honfleur is about a two-hour drive northwest of Paris. The Normandy coast from Honfleur in the northeast to Mont St. Michel in the southwest on the border with Brittany is worth a good long stay.

In addition to Étretat, two other highlights of this fascinating section of coastline are the D-Day beaches and Bayeux. Both places witnessed invasions, a millennium apart.

D-Day Beaches in Normandy Near Honfleur

At the D-Day beaches, I was struck by the spectacular beauty of this stretch of coastline. That it was the scene of so much death and destruction in 1944 is sobering. We visited the marvelous museum and memorial at Juno Beach where the Canadians landed. The Caen Memorial Museum near Caen south of the beaches is also worth a visit.

You can take a guided tour of the area from Paris.

Omaha Beach in Normandy
Omaha Beach
Portion of the Bayeux tapestry showing Edward the Confessor who is looking a trifle bemused
Portion of the Bayeux tapestry showing Edward the Confessor who is looking a trifle bemused

Bayeux Tapestry

A millennium earlier, the French went in the opposite direction to invade England. At Bayeux, you can see the Bayeux tapestry that documents the invasion. The audio guide presentation of the tapestry is excellent–a definite must-see.

For more detailed information about recommended places to see in Normandy, check out Top Normandy Sights for Art & History Lovers.

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Honfleur

Honfleur makes a good home base for a few days while you tour the area. We stayed at the Hôtel L’Ecrin, a lovely old mansion house set in beautiful gardens that included a pool. Free parking was a bonus as was the location of the hotel, an easy stroll to the harbor.

Check the map below for other accommodation options in the area.

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For more about traveling around and enjoying Normandy, see my post Top Normandy Sights to Excite Art & History Lovers.


#2: Côte de Granit Rose, Brittany

Gregg and I have visited the spectacular Côte de Granit Rose twice and hope to return. Thanks to its many plages (beaches), the area is a popular destination in the summer for French families. But the area doesn’t feel touristy or crowded.

What is Special About the Côte de Granit Rose as a Place to Visit in France?

The thirty-kilometer stretch of pink granite rocks twisted into fantastic shapes is considered one of the most outstanding coastlines in Europe. The marriage of pink rocks with turquoise ocean has inspired many artists, notably the French surrealist artist Yves Tanguy (1900-1955).

The Côte de Granit Rose in northern Brittany is a delight for the senses.

This area is perfect for walking and hiking. In fact, you can walk the sentier de douaniers, a former coastguard footpath, from Perros-Guirec via Ploumanac’h to Trégastel Plage. You’ll pass rocks that make you think of slabs of pink-tinted fudge huddled around invitingly sandy coves perfect for paddling in.

The last time we were in the area, a violent windstorm reminded us how nature is her own best artist, using wind and water to sculpt the rocks into such fantastic shapes.

Getting to the Côte de Granit Rose

Map showing the 30-kilometer stretch of coastline between Perros-Guirec and Tregastel is known as the Côte de Granit Rose.
The 30-kilometer stretch of coastline between Perros-Guirec and Trégastel is known as the Côte de Granit Rose.

You need a car to tour this area of northern Brittany. Consider allocating a week to enjoy two or three areas in Brittany–perhaps two nights in the Côte de Granit Rose, two nights farther west in Crozon in the Parc Naturel Regional d’Armorique, and then two nights farther south near Carnac.

View of Pointe de Pen-Hir on the Crozon peninsula in Brittany.
For even more amazing coastline, go farther west to the Pointe de Pen-Hir on the Crozon peninsula in Brittany.

But even a week isn’t long enough. You could easily spend two weeks!

In Brittany, driving is slow along small country roads, and Brittany itself is surprisingly large and varied. Take your time to explore both the northern and the western/southern coasts of this spectacular peninsula.

Did you know that in Brittany, people consider themselves Bretons first, French second? You will occasionally see signs written in Breton–a language related to the Celtic languages of the British isles. After all, Brittany is not far from Cornwall in England.

Practical Tips for Your Visit to the Côte de Granit Rose

We always found delightful small hotels in Brittany. Another option is to rent a house for an extended stay. And while you’re in Brittany, make sure you sample plenty of galettes–the Breton crepes.

Towns to stay at in the area include Trégastel, Perros-Guirec, and Saint-Guirec.

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#3: Gavrinis, Gulf of Morbihan, Brittany

Known as the island of ancient stones, tiny Gavrinis is located in the Gulf of Morbihan, renowned as one of the largest and most beautiful bodies of water in France.

In an area brimming with ancient burial sites, stone alignments, and other Neolithic sites, the burial chamber at Gavrinis is considered one of the most interesting.

What is Special about Gavrinis as a Place to Visit in France?

The Neolithic structure on the island of Gavrinis consists of a tumulus (earth mound) that covers a cairn (stone mound) that in turn covers a dolmen within which is the stone burial chamber. We were told that at Winter Solstice, the sun shines down the passageway and hits the back wall.

How did Neolithic people figure out how to do that? I haven’t a clue, but I love visiting neolithic sites, like Carnac in Brittany and of course, the big kahuna, Stonehenge in England, to try and find out.

What makes Gavrinis unique are the swirling patterns and symbols cut deep into 23 of the 29 rock slabs that form the 24-meter passageway leading to the burial chamber. The designs were cut into the stone over 5,500 years ago (3,500 BC) by some very artistic and amazing people.

Gavrinis passage, replica.Musée de Bougon

[CC BY-SA 4.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)]–Gavrinis passage. Replica in the “Musée des tumulus de Bougon” (Deux-Sèvres), France.

Who were they and why did they make the carvings? You’ll find out on the 90-minute guided tour (including the boat trip) required to view the burial chamber.

The carved patterns are startling in their modernity—zigzag lines, swirls, lozenges, and circles. Some of the shapes appear to be non-abstract objects, such as axes and horns.

Getting To Gavrinis

Gavrinis is located in the Gulf of Morbihan in the southern area of Brittany in western France – Map data @ 2019 Google

The island is accessible by a guided tour from the small town of Larmor-Baden. The boat trip across the sparkling waters of the Gulf of Morbihan makes the 90-minute tour especially enjoyable.

Boat trip across the Gulf of Morbihan to the island of Gavrinis , one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France.
Boat trip across the Gulf of Morbihan to the island of Gavrinis

Check the Brittany Tourism site for more information about touring Gavrinis.

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Gavrinis

The Gulf of Morbihan area is worth several days of your time so you can explore dozens more Neolithic sites and enjoy the marine scenery.

The island of Gavrinis is uninhabited and the village of Larmor-Baden where you catch the boat to tour Gavrinis doesn’t have much in the way of accommodations. However, you’ll find plenty of small, family-run hotels in the area. Zoom out the map below to find some options.

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#4: Chenonceau, Loire Valley

The Loire Valley is famous for its beauty, its wine, and its châteaux. It’s definitely a must-visit place in France! Even if you don’t have a week to explore, consider taking a day trip from Paris to at least see the highlights.

Back in the days before the French Revolution, kings and dukes and marquises and your basic blue-blood types built their summer cottages in the Loire Valley.

Chateau de Chenonceau is a french castle spanning the River Cher near Chenonceaux village, Loire valley in France. It's one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France.
Château de Chenonceau is a French castle spanning the River Cher near Chenonceaux village, Loire valley in France

Okay, cottages is maybe a bit of a misnomer. The number, variety, size, and awesomeness of the châteaux in the Loire is astonishing. You won’t run out of architectural wonders to gawk at, ornamental gardens to wander through, and history to learn.

What is Special about Chenonceau as a Place to Visit in France?

The Château de Chenonceau is my favorite Loire Valley château.

A series of graceful arches supports the château across the river Cher. In World War II, Vichy France was on one side of the river and Free France was on the other. I wonder how many people used the château to escape to freedom.

The first château dated from the 12th and 13th centuries, of which only the dungeon remains: the Tour des Marques. The château in its current form was built between 1513 and 1517.

Women have played an outsized role in the development of Chenonceau. Henry II gave the château to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers, who, shortly after his death, was kicked out by his wife, Queen Catherine d’Medici. Catherine managed the Kingdom of France from her study, the Green Cabinet at Chenonceau.

In the 18th century, Louise Dupin, an exceptional woman who drafted a Code of Women’s Rights, entertained some of the biggest names of the Age of Enlightenment at Chenonceau.

During your visit through the sumptuous rooms, you’ll learn all about these remarkable women and a lot more. Also visit the formal gardens and imagine yourself in Renaissance dress taking your morning constitutional. There is even a maze!

If you had money back in those days, you sure had it made.

Getting to Chenonceau

Chenonceau is located on the Cher river 214 km west of Paris and 34 km east of Tours. If you don’t have time to stay in the Loire Valley, consider taking a tour from Paris. Here are some options.

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Chenonceau

Spend several days in the Loire Valley so you can visit more than one château, but limit yourself to two a day, at most. Château-visiting gets tiring after a while. Less is more.

To minimize driving, spend two or three days around Tours near Chenonceau and then another two or three days closer to Blois. You won’t run out of places to visit.

Another highlight of a visit to the Loire Valley and the area around Chenonceau is the opportunity to sample excellent wine and food. Of course, that’s true pretty much anywhere in France, but the Loire Valley is particularly blessed.

Zoom out the map below to find accommodation options in the Loire Valley.



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For more information about visiting Chenonceau, check the website.


#5: Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil, Dordogne, Aquitaine

I chose Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil (Les Eyzies for short) because it’s smack in the middle of some of the Dordogne’s most compelling prehistory attractions.

Houses in the town of Les Eyzies, Dordogne, France under the shadow of overhanging limestone cliffs. It's one of my recommended places to visit in France.
Houses in the town of Les Eyzies, Dordogne, France under the shadow of overhanging limestone cliffs

Gregg and I are suckers for prehistory–cave paintings, dolmens, megalithic monuments, archeological museums, the lot. If it’s really old, we like it. And if you are also that way inclined, head for this area of the Dordogne around Les Eyzies.

What is Special about Les Eyzies as a Place to Visit in France?

It’s small and charming and is the location of the wonderful Musée National de Préhistoire. Start your exploration here to discover the rich paleolithic heritage of the Vézère Valley, also known as the European “Valley of Man.”

Statue of an early human outside the Musée National de Prehistoire in Les Eyzies
Musée National de Préhistoire in Les Eyzies

Not far from Les Eyzies is the Grotte de Font-de-Gaume where you can view over 800 engravings and drawings of prehistoric horses, bison, aurochs, lions, reindeer, and more.

The Font-de-Gaume is one of the few extensive prehistoric caves still open to the public. Check online for information and to buy tickets. Admission is limited so make sure you buy your tickets well in advance of your visit.

A virtual tour of the cave is also available.

You’ll find many more prehistoric sites in the area. Stay a few days around Les Eyzies and then drive about thirty minutes north to Montignac to visit Lascaux II. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit there and recommend it to anyone interested in prehistoric cave painting.

Yes, Lascaux II is a replica of 90% of the paintings found in the original cave, but it is still awe-inspiring. You must take the 40-minute guided tour. Check the website for information.

Getting to Les Eyzies

Les Eyzies is a two-hour drive east of Bordeaux in the Aquitaine region of southwest France. Consider staying for several days in the area. In addition to exploring prehistoric sites, châteaux. and super-charming villages, you will find many great restaurants.

We had one of the best meals we’ve enjoyed in France (and that’s saying something) at a restaurant overlooking a sleepy canal not far from Les Eyzies.

Carol Cram enjoying dinner next to a canal in the Dordogne
Dinner next to a canal in the Dordogne
Presentation of L'Escargots at a nice restaurant in France
L’Escargots

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Les Eyzies

You’ll find plenty of charming family-run places in the area. On one trip, we stayed in the tiny village of Thonac about halfway between Motignanc and Les Eyzies. The place was on the Vézère River, which we spent an afternoon canoeing down. Heavenly.

Zoom to see accommodation options in the Dordogne.



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#6: Albi, Midi-Pyrénées

Albi in southwest France is a charmingly walkable city with a wonderful red brick cathedral and the world-class Musée Toulouse-Lautrec. If you’re on your way to the Pyrénées, take a day out for Albi.

What is Special about Albi as a Place to Visit in France?

It’s just so darned pretty with its red bricks glowing in the evening light, good restaurants, panoramas over the River Tarn, and laid-back atmosphere.

I also like that it’s steeped in the history of the Cathars–the enlightened sect that practiced a form of proto-Protestantism and refused to recognize the authority of the Catholic church. That didn’t go down too well with the Church (no surprise there) and led to the Cathars being cruelly wiped out in the Albigensian Crusade (1209-1229).

Dominating the ridge above the Tarn River, the cathedral was built a few decades after the conflict and looks more like a fortress than a church. It’s the only large gothic cathedral built out of bricks (pink ones at that) rather than stone.

Here’s a view of the cathedral from our bed-and-breakfast across the river.

Cathedral at Albi seen from across the River Tarn; Albi is one of my recommended places to visit in France
Cathedral in Albi

In addition to the cathedral, the big attraction in Albi is the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec located in the also-pink-bricked medieval Palais de la Berbie next to the cathedral.

I include the museum in my post about Seven Super Single-Artist Museums in Europe.

Getting to Albi

Albi is located 85 km northeast of Toulouse. I recommend staying the night so you can wander around the narrow cobbled streets in the evening and watch the sun as it sets over the cathedral.

Map showing the location of Albi
Map showing the location of Albi in southwest France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Albi

Albi makes a good stop either on your way east from the Dordogne or on your way west toward the Pyrenees and Spain. It’s far enough off the beaten track to retain its provincial feel while still maintaining good tourist services.

Zoom to find accommodation options in Albi.



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#7: Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux, Milau, Midi-Pyrénées 

If you like weird rock formations, you must pay a visit to the Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux. Situated in the heart of the Grand Causses Regional Natural Park about 15 km from Milau and south of the Ardeche area of southwest France, the Chaos is far off the beaten path. You’ll need to plan a special trip.

Panorama at the Chaos of Montepllier le Vieux, one of my recommended places to visit in France
Panorama at the Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux
Photo Credit: La Cité de Pierres

What is Special about Chaos of Montpellier- le-Vieux as a Place to Visit in France?

The Chaos is nature’s art gallery–a maze of canyons bristling with tortured limestone formations. You’ll find over 30 natural works of art, the result of centuries of erosion, with fanciful names such as The Great Sphinx, L’Arc de Triomphe, The Crocodile, The Cathedral, and the Chair of the Devil.

The most accessible rock formations are contained within a 120-hectare area called La Cité de Pierres. On the website, you’ll find information and pictures about the geology, the 30 natural works of “roc-Art”, the 12 rock shelters showing evidence of human habitation from the Neolithic period to the Middle Ages, and some beautiful panoramas.

Getting to Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux

It’s pretty remote! We visited while enroute from the city of Montpellier on the Mediterranean northwest toward Albi.

Map showing the location of the Chaos de Montpellier-le-Vieux in southwest France
Map showing the location of the Chaos de Montpellier-le-Vieux in southwest France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Chaos of Montpellier-le-Vieux

The area is rugged with some of the most precipitous roads we’ve ever driven in Europe. Leave yourself plenty of time and consider staying the night in Milau.



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#8: Camargue, Provence

South of Arles and bordering on the Mediterranean Sea is Europe’s largest river delta–the vast, flat, and wildlife-teeming Camargue. Every time we visit, we declare that we really need to stay longer to explore the lakes and marshlands.

The Parc naturel régional de Camargue protects the area and provides visitors with facilities such as observation towers, information boards, themed trails, and guided tours.

What is Special about the Camargue as a Place to Visit in France?

The wild and flat scenery is beautiful, but for me the big attraction of the Camargue is its wildlife–horses, bulls, and especially flamingos. I don’t know why, but it feels very exotic to come across flocks of flamingos in Europe. Even from the road, you can see them standing serenely in the marshes, looking pink and delightful. If you’re into birds, the Camargue is a must-see with more than 400 species of birds.

Pink flamingos in the Camargue, one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France
Pink flamingos in the Camargue

On one trip to the beach, we were surprised to look across the marsh from where we’d parked the car and see several very large, very horned grazing bulls. We stayed clear! Shortly after seeing the bulls, Gregg dove into a foot of water (he thought it was deeper) and smacked his head on the sea bottom. Fortunately, it was sand, but the bruise persisted for many days!

Black Camarguais bulls in swamp, southern France
Black Camarguais bulls in swamp, southern France

And of course, if you’re lucky, you’ll see the famous Camargue horses galloping freely, white manes flowing. Riding stables are scattered throughout the area if you harbor fantasies of riding a horse along the beach. Here’s a TripAdvisor list of horseback riding tours accessible from Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer.

White Camargue Horses running free
White Camargue horses running free

Getting to the Camargue

The Camargue is located between Montpellier in the west and Marseille in the east. Drive south from Arles and you’re in the Camargue.

Map showing the location of the Parc naturel régional de Camargue
Map showing the location of the Parc naturel régional de Camargue west of Marseille

A good strategy for exploring the area in a few days is to home base in either Arles or Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer. We like both places for different reasons. Arles has the Roman arena and, of course, its association with Vincent van Gogh. With its winding streets, good shopping, and outdoor cafes, it’s a very pleasant town to spend time in.

Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer is, as its name suggests, on the Mediterranean Sea. Bristling with boats, cute shops, and cafes, the town is well worth a visit. When we were last there, it was mid-springtime, and the place was virtually deserted.

Carol Cram on the beach near Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer, one of my recommended places to visit in France,
On the beach near Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer

Practical Tips for Your Visit to the Camargue

Two words: mosquito repellent! We got caught without any while taking a stroll through the Camargue wetlands in mid-summer and oh, dear. It was not pretty. I tried counting how many mosquito bites I got and had to give up.

We discovered a brand of mosquito repellent in France called Le Camargue. That tells you something.

Below are accommodation options in the area.



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#9: Carrières de Lumières, Les Baux-de-Provence

This relatively new attraction in a quarry near Les Baux-de-Provence brings you up close and personal with massive projections of artworks, particularly the art of Vincent van Gogh. Managed by CultureSpaces, the exhibition is a “digital immersive experience.”

Van Gogh Experience at Carrières de Lumières
Van Gogh Experience at Carrières de Lumières

We visited in June 2019 and saw two “experiences”: Van Gogh and Japanese Prints. Both ran about 30 minutes and were accompanied by music.

What is Special about Carrières de Lumières as a Place to Visit in France?

Digital immersive experiences are definitely becoming a thing. The CultureSpaces website list three digital art centres in France: The Carrières de Lumières in Les-Baux-de-Provence, the Atelier des Lumières in Paris, and the Bassins de Lumières in Bordeaux.

In the enormous interior space that was once a rock quarry, artworks are projected and duplicated. You are literally walking into the art. The experience is truly remarkable.

Here’s a video I took of the van Gogh performance when the sunflower paintings were being projected. The venue is dark, but you can get some idea of the scale of the projections.

Getting to Carrières de Lumières

The Carrières de Lumières is located 800 m from the Château des Baux-de-Provence, 15 km north-east of Arles and 30 km south of Avignon.

Map showing location of Carrières de Lumières near Les-Baux-de-Provence
Map showing the location of Carrières de Lumières near Les-Baux-de-Provence

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Carrières de Lumières

Purchase your tickets in advance. Admission to the Carrières is strictly
limited so if you don’t have advance tickets, you may be out of luck. Parking
near the venue is also very limited. Check the website for details.

Once you’ve toured the Carrières de Lumières, spend some time exploring
Les Baux-de-Provence, preferably in the late afternoon or early evening when the bus tours have pulled out. From the ramparts at the top of the village, you get a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside.

Each time we’ve stayed near Les Baux-de-Provence, we’ve found wonderful
rural properties with pools. Here’s a video I shot on the grounds of the Domaine du Mas Foucray situated near the small town of Maussane-les-Alpilles and within sight of Les-Baux-de-Provence. Billed as an aparthotel, our one-bedroom suite included a kitchen and sitting area and a private terrace. In early July when we were there, we picked fresh apricots off the trees.

For more options, see the map below.



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#10: Roussillon, Luberon, Provence

Roussillon has been a family favorite since we first discovered it 25 years ago. The red and ocher walls of the village houses distinguish it from other villages in the Luberon area.

The village itself is truly lovely in an area full of lovely villages, including Bonnieux, Ménerbes and Gordes. Pick any village in the Luberon and settle in for several days.

Colorful houses in the village of Roussillon. one of my recommended places to visit in France
Colorful houses in the village of Roussillon

What is Special about Roussillon as a Place to Visit in France ?

What really distinguishes Roussillon are the ochre cliffs situated about 200 meters from the entrance to the village. Trails that make up the Le Sentier des Ocres wind through this magical area where the vivid oranges, yellows and reds of the ochre cliffs contrast with the green trees and brilliant blue Provençal sky.

Ochre landscape at Roussillon in Provence, France, one of my 17 recommended places to visit in France
Ochre landscape at Roussillon in Provence, France

When you arrive in Roussillon, leave your car in the main parking area and walk to where Le Sentier des Ocres starts. Visit Roussillon late in the day, say, about an hour before the quarry closes. Then you can enjoy it relatively crowd-free and take spectacular photographs of the ochre cliffs in the afternoon sun. After your stroll through the quarry, wander around the village and have dinner at one of the local restaurants.

Several shops sell locally produced ceramics (I have a piece on my desk as I write) and other Provence-themed products. End the day by dining at one of the many restaurants in the village. Most have terraces and beautiful views.

Carol Cram at the Le Sentier des Ocres near Roussillon
At the Le Sentier des Ocres near Roussillon

Getting to Roussillon

Roussillon is about an hour’s drive east of Avignon. The main villages–Gordes, Ménerbes, and Bonnieux– are close by. You need a car to enjoy the area.

Map showing the location of Roussillon in the Luberon region of Provence
Map showing the location of Roussillon in the Luberon region of Provence

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Roussillon

Here are two highly recommended hotels in the Luberon, one in Roussillon and one in Gordes.

Les Sables d’Ocre – A 15-minute walk from the village of Roussillon, this place sets the bar for what a country-style, family-run, low-key, easy-on-the-budget place should be. Book a room that includes a terrace. You’ll have your own private outdoor space and be steps from the pool.

Domaine de l’Enclos – This place close to Gordes–one of the most beautiful hill towns in the area–is wonderful. We snagged a room with a terrace which Gregg made use of to do some drawing. The views from the garden over the Luberon are spectacular.

For more accommodation options, check the map below.



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#11: Château La Coste, Aix-en-Provence

On a beautiful May day in 2018, we drove into the hills behind Aix-en-Provence with no particular destination in mind. The day was gorgeous–fluffy white clouds, not too hot, fresh breeze. Perfection!

We hoped to stumble across a nice side-of-the-road restaurant to enjoy a hearty Provençal lunch, preferably overlooking the landscape that had inspired Cézanne.

Rounding a bend in the twisty secondary road, I saw a sign to Château La Coste. I didn’t know anything about the place, but in the vague hope that it would have a café attached to it, I told Gregg to turn left and follow the signs.

And so we discovered lovely and luscious Château La Coste with its gourmet lunch and, best of all, its several hectares of modern outdoor sculptures.

What is Special about Château La Coste as a Place to Visit in France?

Château La Coste is a vineyard that also features a fabulous art walk populated with modern sculpture. Artists and architects from around the world were invited to visit the domaine and choose a place in the landscape on which to create a sculpture or installation.

The resulting Art Walk is an eclectic array of pieces, many which move with the wind and can be pushed, sat upon, and walked through. The Art Walk is extensive and includes hills, so put on your walking shoes and bring water.

Here’s a selection of pieces we explored.

Gregg walking through a colorful sculpture
Gregg walking through a colorful sculpture
Sculpture by Calder at the entrance to the Chateau la Coste, one of my recommended places to visit in France
Sculpture by Calder at the entrance to the Château La Coste
Sculpture in front of the glorious Provence landscape at Chateau la Coste
Sculpture in front of the glorious Provence landscape at Château La Coste

Getting to Château La Coste

Château La Coste is about 15 km north of Aix-en-Provence along a beautiful winding secondary road with gorgeous views over the countryside. Drop in for lunch (the food was fabulous!), pick up a few bottles of wine, and do the Art Walk. You can easily spend an entire afternoon there.

Map showing the location of Château La Coste north of Aix-en-Provence
Map showing the location of Château La Coste north of Aix-en-Provence

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Château La Coste

You can go all out and spend a night (or three) at the Villa La Coste, billed as a luxury hotel and spa. It’s way out of our price range, but wow – it looks amazing!

Here are other options in the area.



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#12: Seillans, Var, Provence

When you drive into Seillans, a hill town in the Var region of Provence, you are greeted by a sign announcing Seillans as among the Plus Beaux Villages de France; that is, one of the most beautiful villages in France.

You see these signs all over France at the entrance to villages. On the official website, 159 villages are currently listed. Follow the link above to view them. The website is in French, but the site includes plenty of pictures and maps.


What is Special about Seillans as a Place to Visit in France?

We don’t love Seillans because it’s beautiful (and it really is). We love it because of its association with Gregg’s favorite surrealist artist—Max Ernst.

From 1964 until his death in 1976, Max Ernst lived in Seillans with his wife, Dorothea Tanning, another noted surrealist artist. View a selection of their lithographs at the Seillans tourist office located in the main square about 100 meters from the parking area.

Large black-and-white photographs of Ernst are posted on the stone wall lining the cobbled street leading down to the square.

Max Ernst and Gregg  just before Gregg hangs an exhibition of his paintings in Seillans
Max Ernst and Gregg, just before Gregg hangs an exhibition of his paintings in Seillans

Just past the square is the exhibition space—the Salle du Couvent (a former convent) in which Gregg has twice exhibited his work, most recently in June, 2019.

We spent two weeks in Seillans. While Gregg chatted with visitors to his exhibition, I wandered around Seillans, snapping pictures and communing with the ghosts of the centuries of humanity who made Seillans home.

Seillans was likely founded around 500 BC by the Saillens, a Celtic-Ligurian tribe. The village grew slowly with one of the oldest surviving structures, the castle from the 11th century, located at the top of the village.

You can only explore Seillans by foot. Drive up the steep road leading from the lower entrance to the village as far as you can go, then leave your car in the large and shady parking lot. From there, walk into the village to explore its quaint and shady streets.

Read more about The Fortified Hilltop Village of Seillans in the Var, Provence.


Getting To Seillans

Seillans is about a 30-minute drive from the A8 motorway that connects the Riviera with Aix-en-Provence, Marseille, and western France. You can choose to exit the motorway at two places. Coming from the west (Aix-en-Provence or Marseille), take Exit 36 and drive north toward Callas. You’ll pass gorgeous wineries sprawling across the rolling countryside.

Vineyards in the Var region of southern France, an area that is one of my fave places to visit in France
Vineyards in the Var region of southern France

Coming from the east (Nice or Cannes), take Exit 39 and drive alongside the stunning Lac de Saint-Cassien that is actually reservoir and accessible at several points for water sports.

Map showing the location of Seillans in the Var region of Provence in southern France about an hour drive from Nice
Map showing the location of Seillans in the Var region of Provence in southern France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Seillans

Seillans is one of several appealing villages in the Var region of Provence. The region is perfect for a one-week stay to fully immerse yourself in the heat and beauty of this relatively under-touristed area. You are only about an hour from the glitz and galleries of the Cote d’Azur; about 40 minutes due south are Sainte-Raphael and Frejus where you can swim in the Mediterranean.

Overlooking the Mediterranean from Cap Esterel about 40 minutes south of Seillans, one of my recommended places to visit in France
Overlooking the Mediterranean from Cap Esterel about 40 minutes south of Seillans

And if you go to Seillans even for a short visit, stay overnight in the area and have dinner at one of Seillans’ wonderful small restaurants. We enjoyed a marvelous meal at Chez Hugo which perches on the edge of Seillans overlooking the bucolic Var countryside.

You’ll find small B&B’s in the area along with several homestay options. We rented a house for two weeks through HomeAway. The house was about a 30-minute walk to the village of Seillans along a lovely country road.

To find other accommodation options in the area, zoom out on the map below.

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#13: Vence, Côte d’Azur

Over the years, we’ve stayed in a few towns in the hills above Cannes and Nice in the Côte d’Azur. Our favorite is still Vence. It’s big enough to feel like a real town and old and quaint enough to be enjoyable to stroll around.

Whenever we fantasize about living in the south of France, we inevitably agree that Vence would be the perfect location.

What is Special about Vence as a Place to Visit in France?

The town itself is the attraction. Perched high above the Mediterranean Sea, it feels a world away from the glitz and bustle of cities like Canne and Nice. The pedestrian-only medieval streets are quiet and relatively crowd-free, certainly compared to the towns bordering the sea.

Enjoy lunch or dinner in a café, do some shopping, and take in an art exhibition

A highlight of a trip to Vence is touring the Chapelle du Rosaire de Vence, otherwise known as the Matisse Chapel. The stained glass and murals are spare and modern. Matisse himself considered the chapel his masterpiece.

Getting to Vence

You need a car to really enjoy Vence and the surrounding areas. Drive farther north up the Col de Vence to enjoy stunning views of the countryside and the Mediterranean. Also visit Saint-Paul-de-Vence a few kilometers south. The Fondation Maeght is the big attraction there. Read about it in Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe.

Map showing the location of Vence between Cannes and Nice
Map showing the location of Vence between Cannes and Nice

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Vence

In all the years we’ve been visiting the area, we’ve never not found great, family-run hotels to stay in. Here are some options.



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#14: Monte Carlo, Côte d’Azur

The last time we visited Monte Carlo (which I know is technically not in France), we did so by mistake. The house we’d rented way up in the hills above Monaco turned out to not be available when we arrived, and we were obliged to find alternative accommodations.

We rolled down the very steep hills to the Mediterranean and for three nights stayed right on the harbor in Monte Carlo. To Gregg’s delight, our hotel overlooked not only the boats in the harbor but also part of the route of the Monaco Grand Prix. Preparations were underway for the 2018 race while we were there.

Our splurgeworthy 4-star hotel room would shoot from a relatively affordable 200 euros per night to 2000 euros per night on race days!

Harbor at Monte Carlo in Monaco
Harbor at Monte Carlo in Monaco

What is Special about Monte Carlo as a Place to Visit in France?

I never expected to like Monte Carlo so much. I’d visited before but only for a short time–just long enough to see where the casino was but not to go in since we were traveling with Julia.

Monte Carlo and Monaco (they kind of blend together) are compact and easy to walk around. Stay for a few days and just wander the narrow streets and quiet squares. Monaco’s old town up on a bluff overlooking the harbor includes the palace and plenty of charming little streets to get lost in.

Carol Cram overlooking an interior harbor near the old town in Monaco
Overlooking an interior harbor near the old town in Monaco

A highlight for us was the car museum, especially for Gregg who is a racing car enthusiast. While in Monte Carlo, he completed this piece as a homage to the Monaco Grand Prix.

Colorful abstract drawing called Straightaway by Gregg Simpson
Straightaway by Gregg Simpson

Getting to Monte Carlo

The area around Monaco is very, very tight. If you don’t have to drive, take the train from Nice. If you’re driving, get to your hotel, park the car, and then walk. On one of our days in Monte Carlo, we caught the train to Menton to visit friends, a much easier way to travel. The traffic on the Côte d’Azur is pretty much always dreadful.

Map showing the location of Monte Carlo and Monaco
Map showing the location of Monte Carlo and Monaco

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Monte Carlo

We stayed in the fabulous Port Palace Hotel right on the harbor. It was a splurge but worth every penny. The staff were friendly and the room huge, with a view over the boats. Here are other options.



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#15: Palais Idéal, Hauterives

In 1879, a postman named Ferdinand Cheval picked up a stone while on his rounds and over the next 33 years built a fantasy structure that can only be described as surreal. In fact, the surrealists led by André Breton consider postman Cheval’s Palais Idéal as the precursor of surrealistic architecture. Breton, along with other artists, including Max Ernst and Léonara Carington, visited and wrote about the Palais Idéal several times.

Palais Ideal Source: Wikipedia
Palais Idéal – Source: Wikipedia

The Palais Idéal is also considered a premier example of Naïve art. Ferdinand Cheval, who had no training in art or architecture, is recognized as a pioneer of Naïve art.

The Palais Idéal may be off the beaten track for many tourists, but it is well known to French people. In fact, the day we visited, I wouldn’t be surprised if we were the only English speakers there. It was mobbed by French families eagerly enjoying the quirky melange of cement and rock.

What is Special about Palais Idéal as a Place to Visit in France?

The Palais Idéal is quite simply remarkable. It looks like a cross between Angkor Wat and a strangely ornate wedding cake. You really have to see it and wander through its passageways to admire the incredible details.

You are awestruck by Cheval’s dedication and imagination. If you’re feeling at all cynical about the power of one person’s commitment to fulfilling a dream, visit the Palais Idéal and have your faith in human ingenuity restored.

Getting to Palais Idéal

The Palais Idéal is located about an hour south of Lyon in the village of Hauterives in the Drôme Department of southeast France. Combine a trip to Palais Idéal with a drive through this beautiful area west of the Alps.

Map showing the location of the Palais Ideal
Map showing the location of the Palais Idéal in the Drôme Department of southeast France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Palais Idéal

Check the Palais Idéal website for detailed information about ticket prices and location.

Here are accommodation options in the area of Hauterives.



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#16: Strasbourg

The city of Strasbourg is not really off the beaten track, but I include it because for us it was a surprise. The Petite France area is utterly charming, with its waterside cafés and Alsatian architecture.

As the chief city of Alsace and a major business center, Strasbourg is also the seat of a number of the European Parliament, the Council of Europe, and the European Court of Human Rights. It’s a hopping place.

What is Special about Strasbourg as a Place to Visit in France?

Strasbourg is the center of Alsatian culture–a unique combination of French and German reflecting a 2000-year history during which custody of Strasbourg frequently changed. The city is also drop-dead gorgeous, with its maze of narrow streets and a melange of architectural styles, including the distinctive half-timbered houses, lining the canals in the Petite France area.

Strasbourg la Petite France in Alsace half timbered houses
Half-timbered houses in Strasbourg, la Petite France in Alsace

The center of Strasbourg is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Another great attraction of Strasbourg is, predictably, the food! Alsatian cuisine is a unique and hearty combination of French and German, all accompanied with glasses of wine. Strasbourg is close to the Alsatian Wine Trail known for producing Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, and Riesling wines.

Also don’t miss Strasbourg Cathedral with its ornate Gothic facade framing a delicately stunning rose window.

Strasbourg Cathedral at sunrise, France
Strasbourg Cathedral at sunrise

Getting to Strasbourg

If you’re coming from or going to Germany, stop a day or two in Strasbourg.

Map showing the location of Strasbourg, France
Map showing the location of Strasbourg in Alsace in northeast France

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Strasbourg

Strasbourg’s status as the location for the European Parliament means that it’s very well served by transportation, including an international airport and a TGV train that whisks you to Paris in under two hours.

Here are accommodation options.



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#17: Fontainebleau Forest

The Forêt de Fontainebleau is an easy day trip from Paris, but do yourself a favor and settle in for at least one or two nights. That way, you’ll have time to explore both the Château of Fontainebleau and the vast forest, once the hunting grounds of the kings of France and the second-largest national forest in France.

View on the palace of Fontainebleau with White Horse court
View of the palace of Fontainebleau with White Horse Court

Kilometers of trails criss-cross the forest, taking you past sunlit glades and strange rock formations, many resembling animals, such as elephants, tortoises, and crocodiles.

What is Special about Fontainebleau Forest as a Place to Visit in France?

The Forêt de Fontainebleau has been a mecca for artists since the 19th century when it was the headquarters for the Barbizon group of painters. Gregg was in good company when he created his own series of paintings inspired by the strangely evocative forest. Here are two of his large canvases completed after our first visit to Fontainebleau.

Large landscape painting called The Clearing by Gregg Simpson
66The Clearing by Gregg Simpson
Large landscape painting called Impressions of the Fontainebleau Forest  by Gregg Simpson
Impressions of the Fontainebleau Forest by Gregg Simpson

In addition to spending time in the forest, you can’t miss the Palace at Fontainebleau. We were fortunate to visit it just after it opened in the morning and so were the first people to walk through its sumptuous rooms.

I enjoyed our visit to the palace much more than Versailles, which is overcrowded and overpriced. I’m not suggesting you give Versailles a miss—it’s definitely worth seeing. However, if you have time for only one day trip from Paris and you want to see a royal palace, consider the much less touristy, more authentic-feeling Palais de Fontainebleau.

Getting to Fontainebleau Forest

The last time we visited Fontainebleau, we took a train from the Gare de Lyon train station in Paris and then picked up our rental car near the train station at our destination. It’s much less stressful to pick up a rental car in a small town like Fontainebleau than in the middle of Paris (I don’t recommend doing that!).

After spending a day tootling around the forest, we headed south to begin our trip around France.

Allow forty minutes to take the train or drive from Paris to Fontainebleau.

Map showing the loation of Fontainebleau south of Paris
Map showing the location of Fontainebleau south of Paris

Practical Tips for Your Visit to Fontainebleau Forest

The charming town of Fontainebleau contains several of the type of small hotels we favor when traveling in France. Check options on the map below.



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France Guides

Click the image below to discover lots more things to see and do in wonderful France.

Conclusion

Whew! That’s a lot of France! I hope you’ve discovered some new places to visit and re-acquainted yourself with some old favorites.

One of the many things I love about France is how incredibly diverse it is–from the rugged pink granite cliffs in Brittany to the pastoral, château-studded Loire Valley and south through the history-steeped Dordogne, the wild and wonderful chasms of the Cevennes and Ardeche, the rugged beauty of Provence and then back north alongside the Alps to the Germanic flavor of the Alsace, and finally to get royal in Fontainebleau.

I could easily write a post about another 17 awesome places, but these will do for now!

Have you visited any of the places featured in this post? Let other artsy travelers know about your experiences in the comments below.

Here are some more posts to read next to help you plan and enjoy your time in France:

Seven Super Single-Artist Museums in Europe You Should Visit

One of the great joys of traveling in Europe as an Artsy Traveler is discovering amazing single-artist museums.

By single-artist museum, I mean a museum established to showcase the art of a specific artist, even if the museum also hosts exhibitions by other artists.

Europe is awash with great single-artist museums, many of which I’ve written about in other posts on Artsy Traveler, most notably Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris.

This post recommends lesser known single-artist museums in Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, and Spain. I’ve visited all of them, with the exception of the Sorolla Museum in Madrid. Information about this luscious, single-artist museum comes from guest poster Liz Reding who visited the Sorolla Museum in March of 2020, just days before the pandemic shut down Europe.

Map of Europe Showing Museum Locations

The number assigned to each museum in this post corresponds to the number on the map below. For example #1, the Ernst Fuchs Museum is in Vienna (#1 on the map below).

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

#1 Ernst Fuchs Museum in Vienna, Austria

Start in Austria with one of Europe’s weirdest single-artist museums!

If you’re in the mood for quirky and wonderful, then make your way to the Ernst Fuchs Museum in the Wien Hütteldorf, the 14th district of Vienna. You can drive there from central Vienna in about 25 minutes or hop on a bus.

Ernst Fuchs Museum near Vienna, Austria. Photo from the Ernst Fuchs Museum Website.
Exterior of the stunning Ernst Fuch Museum near Vienna.
Photo Credit: Ernst Fuchs Museum Website

Who is Ernst Fuchs?

Ernst Fuchs (1930-2015) was an extraordinarily prolific artist who created works infused with eroticism and myth. In the sixties, Fuchs became a style icon and designed architecture, furniture, tapestries, and jewelry. He was a founder of the Vienna School of Fantastic Realism and was celebrated internationally.

History of the Ernst Fuchs Museum

Fuchs’s work is displayed in the fabulously restored Wagner House, designed and built in 1888 as a summer house by the renowned Jugendstil architect Otto Wagner. The place is, quite simply, spectacular. Inspired by Palladio, Wagner designed the house in the style of a Roman villa.

Back in the day, the design attracted international attention. The press wrote: “A strange allure is evoked by this peculiar villa . . .Completely deviating from the usual appearance of similar buildings, the frontal view of the house that sits on the flank of a hill only shows a large open hall between two side wings.”

Fuchs bought the villa in 1972 when it was derelict and scheduled for demolition. In two years, he restored the house to its original architectural glory and for many years used the house as his private studio. In 1988, the centenary of the building of the original villa, the Ernst Fuchs Museum opened.

Work of Ernst Fuchs

Fuchs’s work combines the fantastic with elements of the visionary and spiritual, all infused with a healthy dollop of sixties psychedelic and a lot of naked bodies.

You’ll find eroticism everywhere. Even if you’re not a big fan of the work, you will appreciate its complexity and awesome technique. You come away with a new appreciation for the heights made possible by the human imagination.

Although I wasn’t hugely taken by the overly florid and fantastical artworks, I loved the unique architecture, whimsical design elements, gorgeous mosaics, and above all, stunning stained-glass windows.

Images of Ernst Fuchs Museum

I highly recommend a visit to this unique museum that also includes beautifully landscaped gardens. Here are photographs of some of the rooms in the Ernst Fuchs Museum. Source: Ernst Fuchs official website.

Adolf Boehm Salon in the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Adolf Boehm Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Grand Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Grand Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Roman Bath at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Roman Bath at the Ernst Fuchs Museum

Explore Ernst Fuchs Museum in 3D

This fantastic website allows you to walk through the museum and use your mouse to zoom in on every painting and design element. It’s one of the best virtual tours I’ve come across.

Visitor Information

The Ernst Fuchs Museum is located at Hüttelbergstraße 26, 1140 Wien and is from from Tuesday through Sunday from 10 am to 4 pm. Tickets cost €11 for adults and €6 for students and seniors or €8 with the Wiencard. For more information, see the Ernst Fuchs Museum website.

#2: Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France

Located in the charming town of Albi in southwest France, the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is a total treat. If you’re in the area, put it on your list and leave yourself lots of time to tour the extensive collections.

Who is Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec?

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) was a leading French artist famous for capturing the personalities of his subjects in loose, free-flowing lines. Born into a wealthy family in Albi, Toulouse-Lautrec’s interest in art flourished following accidents to his legs in his childhood that incapacitated him and resulted in permanent damage.

In the mid-1880s in Paris, Toulouse-Lautrec began his lifelong association with the bohemian life of the cafés, cabarets, entertainers, and artists in Montmartre.

Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec

The Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is housed in the Bishop’s Palace (Palais de la Berbie) next door to Albi Cathedral (also worth a visit). The original palace was built in the 13th-century as a fortress to house the bishops of Albi. The original medieval architecture has been maintained with high, thick walls, and a central courtyard.

Palais de la Berbie in Albi, France (Albi Cathedral to the left)
Palais de la Berbie in Albi, France (Albi Cathedral to the left)

From the Renaissance to the 18th century, the fortress was transformed into a pleasure palace that included sumptuous state rooms and landscaped formal gardens which you can still visit today.

Overlooking the gardens at the Palais de la Berbie that houses the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France
Overlooking the gardens at the Palais de la Berbie that houses the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France

When we visited the museum soon after it opened in the morning, we practically had the place to ourselves.

And it’s huge! Room after room feature the world’s largest public collection of Lautrec’s paintings, lithographs, drawings, and posters. The collection is laid out in chronological order, starting with Toulouse-Lautrec’s early work and leading to the massive posters for which he is most famous.

In addition to exhibiting Toulouse-Lautrec’s work, the museum includes a large collection of art from the early 20th century. You’ll also view a fine collection of art from earlier periods, displayed in the sumptuously restored palace rooms.

A visit to the museum includes access to the palace’s classical gardens and panoramic views over the Tarn River.

View over the Tarne River in Albi, France
View over the Tarn River in Albi, France

Work of Toulouse-Lautrec

I was fascinated with the looseness of Toulouse-Lautrec’s work. He uses freely handled lines and colors to convey the idea of movement and to infuse his subjects with personality. You can imagine meeting the same people on the streets of Paris today.

Here are two of the works you’ll see in the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec. Both pictures are taken from the website of the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec.

Painting called L'anglaise du star au havre" by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
L’anglaise du star au havre” (1899) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Painting called "Femme qui tire son bras" by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Femme qui tire son bras” (1894) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec

You’ll likely recognize several of the posters that were used to advertise the Moulin Rouge and other popular entertainment venues in late-19th-century Paris.

Moulin Rouge: La Goulue (1981) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Moulin Rouge: La Goulue (1981) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Ambassadeurs – Aristide Bruant (1892) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Ambassadeurs – Aristide Bruant (1892) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia

Visitor Information

Tickets for adults cost €10 and €5 for students. The address for the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is Palais de la Berbie, Place Sainte-Cécile. Find the cathedral and you’ll find the adjacent palace. Hours vary depending on the time of year, but for most of the year, the museum is open from 10 am to noon and 2 pm to 6 pm. From June 21 to September 30, the museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm.

Both the cathedral and the palace are built from bricks that glow pink in the setting sun. Here’s a shot of the cathedral from across the river where we stayed in a bed-and-breakfast.

Albi Cathedral in the setting sun
Albi Cathedral in the setting sun

#3: Musée National Fernand Léger in Biot, France

If you’re staying in the Côte d’Azur, put a visit to this museum on your list of must-sees. As the only museum in the world dedicated to the work of Fernand Léger, this purpose-built museum is truly delightful. You’ll see a fabulous collection of Léger’s paintings, sculptures, drawings, ceramics, and tapestries.

Musée National Fernand Léger
Musée National Fernand Léger Photo Credit: Hans G. Oberlack, Creative Commons

Who is Fernand Léger?

Fernand Léger (1881-1955) was a French painter, sculptor, and filmmaker known for his bright and colorful work–a personal form of cubism known as “tubism”. He often depicted industrial subjects and objects of the consumer age–an art ‘first’–and is considered the forerunner of the pop art movement.

Léger was born in Argentan in Normandy. I recently read that his childhood home is being turned into a museum. That will definitely be on our itinerary the next time we travel in northern France. Check out the article.

Photograph of artist Fernand Léger
Source: Wikipedia
Fernand Léger
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Musée National Fernand Léger

In 1955, not long before his death, Léger purchased a villa on the property upon which the museum now stands. Supervised by his widow, construction of the museum began in 1957 with the museum opening to great fanfare in 1960.

The museum exhibits Léger’s work in chronological order, beginning with his realist early work and progressing to his “tubism” period prior to World War I with its emphasis on cylindrical forms and then to his “mechanical period” that was heavily influenced by his war experiences. The collection includes over 450 pieces.

In addition to the collection inside the museum, you’ll want to linger awhile on the grounds to enjoy Léger’s massive sculptures and especially to view the huge murals that cover the outside of the museum.

Sculpture on the grounds of the Musée National Fernand Léger
Source: Abxhay - Creative Commons
Sculpture on the grounds of the Musée National Fernand Léger
Source: Abxhay – Creative Commons

If you’re traveling with children, the Léger Museum is an excellent stop.

We first visited the museum when Julia was nine years old. She loved it! I think her appreciation for modern art stems partially from that visit. Mind you, growing up surrounded by her dad’s work also likely played a role!

Work of Fernand Léger

Léger’s work is bright, bold, and beautiful. It’s impossible, I think, to tour this museum and not enjoy yourself. The more you study his work, the more you appreciate it.

Here are two works by Léger. Regrettably, I did not take pictures when I visited the museum, so these photos are from the WikiArt website.

"Contrast of Forms" by Fernand Léger (1918)
Source: WikiArt
“Contrast of Forms” (1918) by Fernand Léger
Source: WikiArt

"The Man with the Cane" (1920) Source: WikiArt
“The Man with the Cane” (1920) by Fernand Léger
Source: WikiArt

Visitor Information

Visit the museum every day except Tuesdays, December 25, January 1, and May 1. From November to April, the museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm, and May to October from 10 am to 6 pm. Tickets cost €7.50. Admission is free on the first Sunday of the month. The museum is located at Chemin du Val de Pome, very close to Biot, a small village in the hills above the Côte d’Azur. If you’re traveling by car, you will find it easily. While you’re in the area, don’t miss several other wonderful museums showcasing the work of other 20th-century modern artists.

Two other single-artist museums—the Marc Chagall National Museum in Nice and the Musée National Pablo Picasso in Vallauris— are, like the Léger Museum, part of the network of French National museums in the Alpes-Maritimes department dedicated to 20th-century artists.

#4: Fondation Vasarely in Aix-en-Provence, France

On the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence (one of my favorite towns in the south of France), you’ll find the impressive and undervisited Fondation Vasarely. The museum showcases the massive artworks of Victor Vasarely, a Hungarian-French artist (1906-1997) considered the grandfather and leader of the op art movement.

Fernand Léger
Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France

Who is Victor Vasarely?

Victor Vasarely (1906-1997) was a French-Hungarian artist who used colorful geometric shapes to create compelling 3D optical illusions.

After settling in Paris in 1930, Vasarely experimented with Surrealism and Abstract Expressionism in the 1940s, then developed his hallmark checkerboard paintings.

Victor Vasarely
Source: Wikipedia
Victor Vasarely
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Fondation Vasarely

The Fondation Vasarely was opened in 1976 by French president Georges Pompidou.

Each of the seven hexagonal galleries contains six monumental works of art. On our most recent trip there in 2018, some of the artworks were in need of restoration, which is a shame.

Help support the continuation of this stunning museum by paying it a visit when you’re in the area.

Visiting here is like walking through posters from the swinging sixties, which is hardly surprising since the 3D optical illusions that characterize Vasarely’s work have graced the dorm rooms of students for decades.

Work of Victor Vasarely

Here are some of the massive pieces you’ll see at the Fondation Vasarely.

Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - blues and greens
Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - reds and multi-colors
Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - blues and greens

Visitor Information

Located at 1, Avenue Marcel Pagnol on the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence, the distinctive museum is easy to find. Admission is €9 for adults. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm.

#5: Max Ernst Museum near Cologne, Germany

The stylish Max Ernst Museum is located in Brühl, about a twenty-minute drive from Cologne on the way to Bonn. For Gregg, a visit there on a recent trip to the area was akin to a pilgrimage. Gregg has been a fan of surrealist Max Ernst for decades—pretty much since he first became an artist himself.

Gregg Simpson outside the Max Ernst Museum in Brühl near Cologne, Germany
Gregg outside the Max Ernst Museum in Brühl near Cologne, Germany

Who is Max Ernst?

Max Ernst (1891-1976) was born in Germany and became a naturalised American in 1948 and a French citizen in 1958. He was a painter, sculptor, graphic artist, collagist, and poet, a pioneer of the Dada movement, and a member of the surrealist group.

Towards the end of his life, Max Ernst, along with his wife, noted painter Dorothea Tanning, moved to the charming village of Seillans in the Var region of Provence. We spent two weeks in Seillans in July 2019 where Gregg had an exhibition in a space close to where Ernst and Tanning lived.

Max Ernst
Photo: Wikipedia
Max Ernst
Photo: Wikipedia

History of the Max Ernst Museum

The museum features a marvelous collection of Ernst’s work displayed in a thoughtfully renovated space. A modern glass pavilion is integrated into the horseshoe floor plan of the late-classicist Brühler Pavillon, a popular ballroom and social venue that was erected in 1844 and that Max Ernst himself visited in his youth.

Stylishly renovated Max Ernst Museum in Brühl, Germany
Stylishly renovated Max Ernst Museum in Brühl, Germany
Photo: Max Ernst Museum Website

You’ll find an extensive collection of paintings, drawings, frottages, collages, and sculptures spanning over 70 years of Ernst’s influential career, including his time in Brühl and Bonn, his Dadaist activities in the Rhineland, his contributions to the Surrealist movement in France, his exile in the United States during WWII, and finally his return to Europe in 1953.

I especially loved the sculptures on the grounds of the museum.

Work of Max Ernst

Max Ernst was a fabulously prolific artist with work that is detailed and complex and wholly distinctive. Here’s a selection of some of my favorite works by Max Ernst. Pictures are all from the max-ernst.com website.

"Attirement of the Bride" (1940) by Max Ernst
Attirement of the Bride” (1940) by Max Ernst
"Ubu Imperator" (1923) by Max Ernst
Ubu Imperator” (1923) by Max Ernst
"The Triumph of Surrealism" (1973) by Max Ernst
The Triumph of Surrealism” (1973) by Max Ernst

Visitor Information

The museum is located at Comesstraße 42 / Max-Ernst-Allee 1, 50321 Brühl and is open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. At present (May, 2020), admission to the museum is free. For current information, check the museum website.

#6: René Magritte Museum in Brussels, Belgium

The full name of the museum is the René Magritte Museum – Museum of Abstract Art, a double museum dedicated to Surrealism and Abstraction. Now that’s a double bill I can get behind.

On a recent short visit to Brussels, we made a beeline for the Magritte Museum and were not disappointed. As one of the most iconic figures in the surrealist movement, René Magritte deserves his own museum, and this one is first rate.

Who is René Magritte?

René Magritte (1898-1967) was a Belgian artist and probably one of the best-known surrealists after Salvador Dali. Back in the 1970s, I had a poster of his iconic painting of a massive dove called “The Large Family” on the wall of my student dorm–and I was not the only one.

"The Large Family" by Rene Magritte
Photo Credit: www.renemagritte.org
“The Large Family” by Rene Magritte
Photo Credit: www.renemagritte.org

In the 1920s, Magritte moved to Paris from Belgium and became involved with André Breton and the Surrealist group, of which he was a leading member. He exhibited in 1929 with several of the leading surrealists of the time, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Arp, de Chirico, Max Ernst, Joan Miró, Picabia, Picasso, and Yves Tanguy.

In 1930, Magritte returned to Brussels and continued painting there until his death. His imagery has heavily influenced pop, minimalist, and conceptual art.

René Magritte Photo: www.renemagritte.org

René Magritte Photo: www.renemagritte.org

History of the René Magritte Museum

The museum is relatively new, opened in 1999 shortly after Magritte’s one hundredth birthday. It’s built inside a house that Magritte lived in with his wife and includes an adjoining building that was renovated to showcase 250 masterpieces of Belgian abstract art.

You’ll tour the reconstruction of Magritte’s apartment on the ground floor and then view artworks from a collection that includes over 400 archive documents, photos, and objects, as well as 30 original works. You won’t see some of his most famous works, but you will get a good overview of Magritte’s development.

We loved it!

Work of René Magritte

Magritte’s work is endlessly fascinating–both for its meticulous technique and for its subject matter. Bowler hats, floating rocks, figures that are half animal/half people, and strange juxtapositions of everyday logic. When you tour the museum, you never know what you’re going to see around the next dimly lit corner.

Take your time and enjoy! Here are some of Magritte’s the works from the collection. Photos are all from the Magritte Museum pages on the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium website (Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique)

L'empire des lumières by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
L’empire des lumières by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
Le Domaine d'Arnheim (1962) by  René Magritte - Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
Le Domaine d’Arnheim (1962) by  René Magritte – Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
La magie noire (1945) by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
La magie noire (1945) by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
Golconde (1953) by René Magritte - Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
Golconde (1953) by René Magritte – Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography

Visitor Information

Located at Place Royale, Koningsplein 1 in Brussels, admission to the museum is €10 for adults, €8 for seniors, and €3 for students. Opening hours are Monday to Friday from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm and weekends from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm. Check the website for up-to-date information.

#7: Museo Sorolla in Madrid by Guest Poster Liz Reding

This description of the Sorolla Museum is written by guest poster Liz Reding. She and her husband visited in March, 2020, days before the museum closed in response to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Liz Reding: My husband and I have been admirers of the paintings of Joaquín Sorolla for many years, so on our recent trip to Madrid, a visit to the Museo Sorolla was top of our list.

Who is Joaquín Sorolla?

Born in Valencia, Spain, Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida (1863-1923) received his art education in Madrid, Rome, and Paris and was a contemporary of Picasso, Matisse, John Singer Sargent, and Andreas Zorn. He and his wife, Clotilde, had three children.

He painted portraits, landscapes, and monumental works depicting social and historical themes.

Joaquín Sorolla
Photo: Wikipedia
Joaquín Sorolla
Photo: Wikipedia

History of the Museo Sorolla

The Museo Sorolla is located in the home that Sorolla shared with his family, and is considered one of the best-preserved artist houses in Europe. The collection of more than 1,200 pieces is displayed along with the house’s original furniture and objects.

The house is surrounded by a delightful garden, a real oasis from the rumble of the cars and buses just outside the gate. 

Garden at the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding
Garden at the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding

By urban standards, this museum is relatively small, but packed with dozens of gorgeous paintings, as well as sculptures, sketches, photographs, water colors, and writings.

One noteworthy feature of this museum is that all the works are expertly hung and well lit. Most of the viewing rooms have deep colors that enhance the paintings with light-diffusing devices, such as a window shade or ceiling tapestry. What a pleasure!

Interior of the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding
Interior of the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding

Work of Joaquín Sorolla

Sorolla’s wife and children are featured in a significant number of Sorolla’s paintings, and his love and admiration for them clearly shows. In addition, Sorolla painted many portraits of important people, including U. S. President Taft, and is known for his masterful handling of light, as evidenced by his many beach-scene paintings.

Here are two of Sorolla’s works exhibited at the Museo Sorolla.

Painting by Joaquín Sorolla at the Museo Sorolla, Madrid
Photo credit: Liz Reding
Painting by Joaquín Sorolla at the Museo Sorolla, Madrid
Photo credit: Liz Reding

Visitor Information

Located at Paseo General Martínez Campos, 37, the Museo Sorolla is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9:30 am to 8:00 pm and on Sundays and holidays from 10:00 am to 3:00 pm. Tickets cost €3.

Other Single-Artist Museums in Europe

I wish I could say that I’ve visited all the single-artist museums that I’d like to in Europe, but not yet!

Here are just some of the museums I look forward to visiting in the next few years. If you’ve been to any of them, add a comment to let other Artsy Travelers know what you think!

Fondation Jean Dubuffet

Located in Périgny-sur-Yerres in the department of Val-de-Marne, the Dubuffet Foundation includes paintings and massive outdoor sculptures by Jean Dubuffet. Many years ago, we went there only to find it closed, but we did manage to peek through the fence! It looked amazing!

Zentrum Paul Klee in Bern, Switzerland

I’m a big fan of the work of Paul Klee and have his museum on my list for the next time we drive through Switzerland. Check the website for details.

Franz Marc Museum in Kochel, Germany

A modern extension has extended the exhibition space of this beautifully-situated museum, It overlooks a lake near the little town of Kochel in Bavaria, about an hour west of Munich. Franz Marc’s colorful work makes me smile. Check the website for details.

Conclusion

Have you visited any of the museums listed in this post? If so, let Artsy Traveler readers know what you think.

To keep reading about art in Europe, check out these posts:

Armchair Travel Options for When You Can’t Travel

I originally wrote this post during lockdown in the spring of 2020! Fortunately, those dark days are behind us. However, that doesn’t mean the content in this post can’t still be relevant. No matter how much you love traveling, you may not be able to do it all the time. I know I still have long stretches of home time!

So what to do when you can’t travel? Well, you can relax, reflect, and travel from your couch or armchair or chaise lounge–whatever.

In this post, I share three ways you can get your travel fix, each made possible by the Internet.

Catch Up on Your Reading

You can always enjoy a good book and indulge your love of travel at the same time–whether you’re couch bound or plane bound.

My reading suggestions fall into three categories: travel blogs, novels, and memoirs.

Travel Blogs

One of my not-so-secret-pleasures is monthly library visits to check out an armload of travel guides about my next destination. Reading travel blogs also help you scratch the travel itch. You could spend every waking minute until the next millennium scrolling through travel blogs and still not read them all.

Narrow the field by searching for blogs about travel experiences that match your travel interests. I like the arts and so I gravitate to bloggers who, like me, showcase artsy sightseeing options and travel tips.

On Google and social media, search for your travel interests (for example, “art museums in Europe” or “traveling to Iceland”).

Several travel blogs focus on Europe and the arts (like Artsy Traveler!). Here’s a selection to get you started:

Culture Tourist: This clearly-laid-out blog by an Amsterdam-based blogger includes several virtual art museum tours.

Context Travel: This website promotes “scholarly tours for curious travelers” and includes an excellent blog. Also access “Context Conversations”, a selection of live Zoom seminars conducted by art history experts created to help them continue connecting with and educating travelers.

Culture Passport: Designated as a premier online destination for design-minded travelers, the blog features European destinations and articles about recommended art museums.

Cultural Travel: This website belongs to a UK-based travel company that no longer runs culture tours in Europe. However, the blog includes some wonderful articles about European art and culture.

Novels Set in Interesting Locations

I love reading novels set in locations I’ve either visited or want to visit. A few years ago, I traveled in Iceland and since then often indulge my Iceland fascination by reading novels that are set there.

Many novels set in Iceland are thrillers, some darker than others. I recently read and enjoyed the Reykjavik Noir Trilogy by Lilja Sigurdardóttir.

Do you have a favorite travel destination or one that you’re longing to explore? When you read novels set in places you’ve visited or want to visit, you satisfy your wanderlust while also enjoying a good story. And who doesn’t love a good story?

Trip Fiction

An awesome resource for armchair travelers is the Trip Fiction website. Here, you’ll find thousands of novels categorized by location. Select a location and view a list of novels set there.

Trip Fiction Website - great place to find novels set in travel locations
Trip Fiction Website

Novels Set in Europe

Here’s a selection of recommended novels set in places I’ve traveled to in Europe:

300 Days of Sun by Deborah Lawrenson: A contemporary novel set in Faro in the sunny Algarve region of southern Portugal. “A deeply satisfying novel, a rich story with a strong feeling for time and place and the expert pacing of the best thrillers. Readers will appreciate Lawrenson’s ability to combine stunning atmosphere with a fascinating historical backstory.” (Booklist, starred review)

The Little French Bistro by Nina George: A contemporary novel of self-discovery and new beginnings set on the stunning coast of Brittany in northwest France. “George beautifully evokes Brittany with its rocky shores, crustacean-rich waters and Celtic origins… It’s no spoiler to say this novel offers a happy ending — and a satisfying one as well.” —The Washington Post

Brandenburg Gate by Henry Porter: A thriller set in East Berlin in the late 1980s as East Germany collapses. Winner of the CWA Ian Fleming Steel Dagger Award. “An elegant spy thriller that, I believe, John le Carré himself would be pleased to have attributed to him.” –The Guardian

Rome is Where the Heart Is by Tilly Tennant: An uplifting romance set in Rome. ”I’ve been a fan of this writer for some time now and she never fails to delight. Tilly really does have a way of captivating her readers and taking them to the settings of her stories.…Five stars!’ – The Reading Shed

Arts-Inspired Novels

My sister website to Artsy Traveler is Art In Fiction where you’ll find over 1700 novels (and counting) inspired by the arts. Many of these arts-inspired novels are set in Europe. When I want to combine my yen for travel with my love of the arts and Europe, I choose one of these novels.

I recommend you check out these arts-inspired novels set in Europe.

The Towers of Tuscany by Carol M. Cram (yes, that’s me!) tells the story of a female painter in 14th-century Tuscany. Winner of the Chaucer Grand Prize Ribbon for Historical Fiction Pre-1750s. “The Towers of Tuscany is a delightful escape to the Siena we all love. Carol Cram has crafted a delicious story about a strong woman torn between her secret past, her love of painting, and the forbidden charms of her rich patron. Hard to resist and highly recommended!” Anne Fortier, author of the New York Times bestseller Juliet and The Lost Sisterhood

Muse by Mary Novik is a fascinating historical novel set in 14th-century Provence about the woman who was the inspiration behind Petrarch’s sublime love poetry. “With Muse, Novik has crafted a heroine who pushes against the constraints of her time and station, placing her in a richly imagined world that thrums with life.” —The Globe and Mail

Jane and the Madness of Lord Byron by Stephanie Barron is a delightful mystery starring famous novelist-turned-sleuth Jane Austen and set in Brighton in the early 1800s. “Barron does a wonderful job of bringing the Regency era to life. I was fascinated with the thoroughness of her research and her grasp of the nuances of social strata, fashions, and manners of the time. ” – Art In Fiction Review

And After the Fire by Lauren Belfer is a must-read if you’re traveling to Germany and you love the music of Johann Sebastian Bach. National Jewish Book Award Winner. “Blending the gorgeousness of Bach and the horror of anti-Semitism over several centuries should make for unsettling contemplation, and readers of Belfer’s . . . know that the author will be meticulous with both fact and fiction.” – Library Journal

The Return by Victoria Hislop is a remarkable dual-time novel set in Granada during the Spanish Civil War and the present day. If you love history, flamenco, and Spain, you’ll adore this novel. “Hislop marries an epic family saga with meticulous historical research, and it’s a captivating partnership.” – Easy Living

Oil and Marble: A Novel of Leonardo and Michelangelo by Stephanie Storey brings 16th-century Florence alive in this story of the two Renaissance masters. “The artistic process can be one of self-doubt, struggle, and sheer physical exertion, and Storey depicts the drama here with truth and insight. A rewarding read for art aficionados and fans of historical fiction.”– Booklist

Travel Memoirs

The travel memoir genre has been around for centuries. When you think about it, Homer’s Odyssey is a travel memoir!

The urge to document one’s travels did not start with the invention of the blog, that’s for sure. An online search for “travel memoir” yields thousands of titles. Narrow them down by specifying a location and even a time period.

For example, a search for “travel memoir England 18th century” will uncover The Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides (1786) by James Boswell. Okay, that might be a bit obscure, but the point is that you can choose from thousands of travel memoirs, both old and new.

One of my favorite memoirs from the 19th century is Innocents Abroad by Mark Twain. He is such a delicious curmudgeon. If you’ve never read it, check it out. The Project Gutenberg version is free and illustrated. Scroll through to find places you’ve visited yourself and then read what Mark Twain had to say about them. You’ll find a lot to laugh about, I guarantee it.

Here are some good travel memoirs and travel stories to check out.

Neither Here Nor There: Travels in Europe by Bill Bryson is a laugh-out-loud-funny tour through Europe from northern Norway to Rome, and taking in Paris, Amsterdam, Cologne, and Austria among many other destinations. I’m a big fan of all Bill Bryson’s books, but this is still one of my favorites.

Driving Over Lemons: An Optimist in Spain by Chris Stewart is about the trials and tribulations of owning a sheep farm without running water and electricity in the Alpujarra Mountains in southern Spain.  “Take half a cup of Bill Bryson, mix with three tablespoons of Peter Mayle, then add just a pinch of Monty Python, and what you get is Driving Over Lemons.”- Chicago Tribune 

A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle is a good read and responsible for introducing millions of people to the delights of the Luberon in the south of France. I credit it with piquing my own interest in the region that has since become a firm favorite. “Engaging, funny and richly appreciative.” —The New York Times Book Review

Four Seasons in Rome: On Twins, Insomnia, and the Biggest Funeral in the History of the World by Anthony Doerr is a memoir about art and adventures in Rome by the acclaimed author of All The Light We Cannot See. “…a funny, precise, touching account of cultural barricades crossed and fatherly exhaustions overcome…that will lift the heart of every parent and delight the mind of every lover of Italy.”– Adam Gopnik, author of Through the Children’s Gate and From Paris to the Moon

Explore Online Tours

You’ll find a lot of online chatter these days about substituting a visit to an art museum with a virtual tour. I’m not going to pretend that viewing online exhibits is as satisfying as experiencing the museums in real life. On the other hand, your feet won’t get sore and you won’t need to jostle for viewing room with thousands of other tourists.

Two virtual options are available for the art-starved traveler: Take a Virtual Tour and Explore Collections.

Virtual Museum Tours

Most of the famous museums in Europe offer excellent virtual tours of their collections, generally designed to mimic walking through the museum. Use your mouse to get a 360-degree view of a room, then zoom in on particular pieces.

Art Museums with Virtual Tours

The Google Arts & Culture website is an excellent source for virtual tours of major European art museums and artworks. Also explore the virtual tours offered by the museum websites. Here are tours of some of my favorite art museums in Europe.

Rijksmuseum From Home: Watch short videos of curators talking about the collection, take the Grand Rijksmuseum Pub Quiz, and check out the masterpieces up close and online in Amsterdam’s grandest museum.

Front View of the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam - the museum website includes a virtual tour of the collection
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Louvre Online: Visit the museum’s exhibition rooms and galleries and contemplate the façades of the Louvre in Paris.

The Louvre museum website includes a virtual tour of the collection
Pyramid of the Louvre Museum in Paris

Centre Pompidou: Find a large collection of guided audio tours through the exhibitions and permanent collections of one of my favorite modern art museums.

Centre Pompidou in Paris - check out the website for podcasts and virtual tours
Centre Pompidou in Paris

Musée d’Orsay, Paris: Take a virtual walk through galleries containing works by artists such as van Gogh, Monet, and Cézanne, among others.

Interior of the Musee d'Orsay in Paris; the museum has great virtual tours
Musée d’Orsay in Paris

Pergamon Museum, Berlin: The Google Arts and Culture site also includes virtual tours through the collections at the Pergamon in Berlin, perfect for fans of ancient art from the Middle East.

View of Museum island on Spree river in Berlin where the Pergamonmuseum is located
Museum island on Spree River in Berlin where the Pergamon Museum is located

Uffizi Gallery, Florence: The Uffizi’s sumptuous website provides detailed information and beautiful photographs of many of the major works in the museum. Read more about must-see artworks in Tuscany.

View of Uffizi Gallery from Ponte Vecchio, Florence, Italy. Check out their collection online.
Uffizi Gallery from Ponte Vecchio, Florence, Italy

Online Museum Collections

Many of the smaller art museums in Europe include comprehensive listings of the pieces in their collections. I like zeroing in on a particular work of art or exhibit and reading about it on the museum’s website.

Museum Websites

Here are websites of some of my favorite museums in Europe.

Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna: The website includes close-up views and information about a wide range of objects and paintings from the museum’s massive collection.

Musée du quai Branly-Jacques Chirac: I love this Paris museum showcasing the arts of cultures from around the globe. Their website includes pictures and information of thousands of the objects in the collection.

Kröller-Müller Museum in the Netherlands: The collections in this wonderful museum are showcased online on the museum’s website. Make sure you pay a visit to the Sculpture Garden

Read more about museums to visit both virtually and in person, in these posts:

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Walkabout Videos

One of my favorite thing to do while I’m working on the computer is to take virtual walks or aerial tours through places I want to visit. Like many people who work in the digital world, I have two screens set up on my desk. I do my work on one screen and load a walking tour or landscape video on my second screen.

Out of the corner of my eye, I catch glimpses of gorgeous landscapes, historic city centers, and interesting sights.

On YouTube, search for the place you want to go to along with the word “walking” or “aerial” and you’ll find plenty of options.

My favorite walking tours are videos made by fellow travelers that focus on a specific city or even neighborhood. For example, you can find numerous neighborhood walk-throughs in Paris. Watching them feels almost as good as being there as the camera glides past people enjoying outdoor cafes and relaxing in parks.

Here’s a selection of videos to enjoy when you’re hankering for a stroll through European cities.

Paris Walkabouts: These videos generally run between 20 and 40 minutes and provide restful, walking-pace explorations of Paris neighborhoods. Explore the Marais, the Left Bank (my fave!), Luxembourg Gardens and Notre Dame after the fire, and a nice, long, 3-hour, 12-mile (19 kilometer) walk through the streets of Paris including the Louvre, Notre Dame (before the fire), the Champs-Élysées, Arc de Triomphe, and Eiffel Tower.

Walking through the Latin Quarter on the Left Bank in Paris

Florence: Take a 3-hour walking tour through the streets of Florence.

A Walking Tour through Florence

Amsterdam: You’ll find lots of walking videos in this wonderfully walkable city. This walkabout video runs about 40 minutes.

A Walking Tour of Amsterdam

Venice: Take a walking tour of fabulous Venice. I loved re-experiencing the tiny back streets of one of the most enchanting cities in the world.

Walking Tour Around Venice

Flyover Videos

Sometimes, I just want to immerse myself in amazing landscapes. Fortunately, hundreds of flyover videos are a click away. Feel like soaring over the Alps? Exploring Tuscany from the air? Cycling through tulip fields in the Netherlands? You’ll find a video on YouTube that fits the bill.

TIP: To filter out the hundreds of super-short videos, many of which are tour ads, click Filter at the top of the list of search results. Choose Long for the duration. Here are some of my favorites.

Iceland from Above: A one-hour drone flight above wonderful Iceland. Oh, how I long to return!

Cinque Terre, Italy: A flyover of the Cinque Terre coast in western Italy. Stunning scenery and gorgeous towns last for almost an hour.

Amalfi Coast, Italy: Two hours of fabulous footage of the towns on the Amalfi coast: Positano, Amalfi, Sorrento, and the coast by sea.

Lavender Fields in Provence: Oh yeah, I could watch this all day. The drone video lasts for about 20 minutes and includes magnificent vistas of lavender fields. All that’s missing is the buzz of the bees and the smell of lavender.

Germany and Austria: One hour of flyover footage featuring lots of cute towns, soaring Alps, and pretty countryside. Turn off the sound to avoid the cloying lounge music soundtrack.

Andalusia in Spain: Includes Seville, Granada, and Corboda. The shots of the Alhambra in Granada are particularly lovely.

Algarve in Portugal: Twenty-plus minutes of fabulous views of red cliffs, white-washed villages, and gorgeous blue ocean.

Watch Documentaries

I adore documentaries, particularly those about travel and the arts.

Between YouTube, Netflix and assorted other streaming services, you’ll find plenty of documentaries to keep you binge-watching for months.

Travel Documentaries

Of course, the King of travel documentaries is Rick Steves. He has recorded over 1800 hours (yes, you read that right) of travel shows. I never tire of listening to Rick extol the virtues of hiking in England’s Lake District or touring the Vatican Museums or enjoying a meal in a French bistro.

On YouTube, search for “Rick Steves” and the name of the destination; for example, “Rick Steves, Paris” and you’ll be spoiled for choice. You can also find all his videos on his website.

But Rick’s not the only game in town. Some other favorites include:

Venice, Island Treasure with Pierre Brouwers: A documentary from 2016 that goes behind the scenes of the canals, gondolas, and sumptuous palaces to explore the real city, with its inhabitants and lifestyle organized to meet the site’s geographical limitations.

Francesco’s Mediterranean Voyage: This 12-part documentary about a sailing voyage from Venice to Istanbul is hosted by the super charming Francesco da Mosto from Venice. It’s not easy to find online. Check DailyMotion to find each episode. Here is Episode 1.

Passport to Europe with Samantha Brown is an entertaining series with bubbly host Samantha Brown who offers practical travel tips and introduces viewers to “A-list” experts who share the best their cities have to offer. Find it on Amazon.

Travel Man with Richard Ayoade is a witty series hosted by British actor and comic Richard Ayoade. He is often joined by other British celebrities while they go on frenetic 48-hour tours of European capitals. Over nine seasons, destinations include Dubrovnik, Bergen, Zurich, Barcelona, Paris…you name it. The short episodes make for perfect quick travel fixes. Find the series on the Travel Man website.

Art Documentaries

You are spoiled for choice when it comes to art documentaries. Gregg and I love art documentaries and over the years have probably watched hundreds of them. These favorites all focus on art in Europe. Find dozens more by searching keywords on YouTube and on streaming services.

Waldemar Januszczak hosts wonderful documentaries about European art, some available on YouTube, like this one on the Dark Ages in Europe. It’s very easy to get hooked on Waldemar’s pithy and often hilarious commentary. And he really knows his stuff!

Mary Beard‘s documentary on Rome: Empire Without Limit is a recent find that I highly recommend. She travels from Spain to Iran, Egypt to Scotland, and Tunisia to Greece to explore the creation, achievements, and legacy of the Roman Empire.

If you are a fan of Cézanne, this PBS video on YouTube called Cézanne in Provence will appeal.


More Resources

Check out these posts highlighting some of my favorite pieces in three art museums:

Blue lagoon in Iceland

Iceland’s Blue Lagoon: Should You Go?

At the Blue Lagoon, you’ll experience one of Iceland’s top places for enjoying the miraculous thermal waters that heat most of the country and make many of its surfaces bubble and gush.

Should you include a visit to the Blue Lagoon in your Iceland itinerary? It’s an expensive, slickly produced experience as far removed from jumping into a natural hot spring in the Icelandic hinterland as you can get.

But should you go? Definitely!

I visited the Blue Lagoon on my first morning in Iceland on a February trip with my daughter, Julia. Here are my impressions and my tips for making the most of the €73 experience. That’s the cheapest rate, by the way. You can spend more (and we did!).

Blue lagoon in Iceland
Blue lagoon geothermal spa in Iceland

Entrance to the Blue Lagoon is strictly regulated so it will never be bobbing room only. But if possible, go in the early morning when the crowds are sparsest. Enveloped in steam and warmth, you’ll feel like you’re the only person on Earth.

Purchasing Tickets

You must purchase tickets for the Blue Lagoon well in advance of your trip to Iceland. If you’re going in the busy summer months, purchase tickets several months ahead.

Although we were visiting in February, we found availability was already limited when we booked in November. And if you want to include a massage, don’t wait! We managed to snag two of the last spots.

At the same time as you purchase your tickets to the Blue Lagoon, purchase bus tickets from the airport to the Blue Lagoon and from the Blue Lagoon to Reykjavik (or the other way around).

Here are some options for purchasing Blue Lagoon tickets through Tiquets.com:

Blue Lagoon Strategy

A good strategy is to visit the Blue Lagoon just after you land in Iceland or, if your flight time allows, on the morning you depart. The Blue Lagoon is situated in a lava field near Grindavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula, about 20 minutes from Keflavík International Airport and 50 minutes from Reykjavík.

Buy Blue Lagoon and bus tickets directly from the Blue Lagoon website if you’re traveling independently. Another idea is to combine your visit to the Blue Lagoon with a tour that includes transportation and other sightseeing. Here are some options:

Following is my summary of a Blue Lagoon Experience in February.

Arriving in Iceland

We touch down at Keflavik International Airport at 6 am after an eight-hour overnight flight on Icelandair from Vancouver. We are not alone! Many flights from North America arrive early, so the stylishly designed airport is hopping.

Our first stop is the small convenience store outside Baggage Claim where we buy SIM cards and a snack.

TIP: A pre-paid Icelandic SIM card with about 5 GB of data for an unlocked GSM phone costs €15 to €20. We each bought SIM cards and had plenty of data for our ten days in Iceland. The cell coverage in Iceland is phenomenal. Even when perched atop a glacier, I was able to check email and scroll through Instagram. Apparently, cell coverage is so good in Iceland to facilitate emergency broadcasts about volcanic eruptions. Iceland is basically sitting atop a boiling cauldron of molten lava.

We wait about thirty minutes inside the warm terminal for our pre-paid bus ride to the Blue Lagoon. Ten minutes before it’s due to arrive, we venture out into an Icelandic morning in February.

Cold? Yes, very. But it’s definitely refreshing after eight hours on a plane.

Boarding the Bus for the Blue Lagoon

The bus arrives, and it’s a scramble as everyone surges forward to stow their luggage. We circle around to the other side and find room for our two suitcases and then present ourselves and our tickets to the driver. Ahead of us is a group of six people who don’t have the right tickets. The driver is unmoved by their pleas. Finally, they step aside, and we board. It’s 7:30 am and pitch dark.

The bus lumbers out to the road flanked on either side by desolate fields studded with rocks. We can’t see much and so both of us soon nod off. About twenty minutes later, we awaken to a slightly rockier landscape and a very faint glimmer of gray piercing the darkness. We’re close to the Blue Lagoon.

The first signs of it are clouds of steam from the massive thermal power plant that is the lagoon’s reason for existence. If you’re expecting a natural hot spring, you’ll be disappointed. The Blue Lagoon is unashamedly man-made, although the hot, mineral-laden water is natural. The lagoon evolved from the warm blue reservoir that formed following the construction of the nearby Svartsengi geothermal power plant.

Geothermal plant at the Blue Lagoon
Geothermal plant at the Blue Lagoon

Arriving at the Blue Lagoon

The bus stops and we join the large queue outside a small building containing lockers for our luggage. I’m surprised at how long we have to wait at only 8 am. But finally, we struggle through a narrow corridor to the lockers, hand over our suitcases, get our tags, and follow signs to the entrance to the Blue Lagoon complex.

TIP: Make sure you pack your bathing suit, flip flops, and any toiletries you need in your carry-on bag so you have them handy when you arrive at the Blue Lagoon. You don’t want to be digging through your suitcase while waiting in the very crowded line-up.

It’s still very dark and also very cold. This is our first taste of Iceland weather, and we’re very glad of our warm coats, snow boats, hats, and gloves. But we’ve come to Iceland in February. What did we expect?

Entering the Blue Lagoon Complex

Inside the reception building that contains the changing rooms and a cafeteria, we are efficiently processed – our reservation checked and our locker assigned. It’s incredibly well organized. The Blue Lagoon welcomes up to 4000 visitors per day year-round.

Entrance to the Blue Lagoon
The crowds haven’t yet arrived at the Blue Lagoon reception area

I’m struck by the cheerfulness of the attendant checking us in. She sees thousands of guests a day and yet she knows how exciting the experience is for first-timers and smiles at our enthusiasm.

She gives each of us a towel, a white robe and an electronically coded wristband. We must wear the wristbands at all times to get access to our lockers and to receive our free drink and face mud out in the lagoon. The wristbands are also encoded with the time of our scheduled massages.

We’ve paid several hundred dollars for our Blue Lagoon experience that includes transportation and in-water massages, so no wonder we’re excited. I’m determined to enjoy every second!

Enjoying the Blue Lagoon

Preparing for the Blue Lagoon

Into the immaculately clean changeroom we go, where we divest ourselves of our heavy clothes and stuff them into the lockers which are not large. I’ve read that you’re expected to shower naked but everyone else is wearing a bathing suit as they enter the showers and so I do too. I don’t want to scare people this early in the morning.

Graphic signs remind us to shower thoroughly and with soap. In Iceland, cleanliness at thermal pools is taken very seriously. You are expected to wash your hair and all parts of you. Shampoo and liquid soap are supplied.

Finally, showered and robed, we make our way to a glass-enclosed anteroom, hang up our robes on numbered hooks that we’ll hopefully remember, then get ready to exit to the great outdoors.

Dipping Into the Blue Lagoon

Ahead of us, we hear the squeals of guests as they expose flesh still dripping from their cleansing showers to the freezing air. I experience a moment of doubt. Who walks outside at 8:30 am in the pitch dark (yes, it’s still dark) in Iceland in February wearing only a wet bathing suit?

Apparently, we do.

Our bare feet encounter real, honest-to-goodness ice. I’m walking over ice in Iceland in bare feet! This is really a stupid idea. Is it too late to turn back? Will they refund my money?

We join the squealers and pick up the pace to cover the ice-slick ground from the entranceway into the water—a distance of maybe ten yards. It feels like ten miles. We are so nuts.

A good inch of fresh snow covers the railing at the top of the steps leading into the steam-swathed lagoon. I grip it anyway rather than risk slipping and ignominiously falling face first into the lagoon.

Our toes reach the lapping waters which in the darkness look white under a heavy layer of steam. Ahead, we glimpse a few bobbing heads. I feel like I’m about to descend into the pit of Hell. At any moment, Pluto will swoop down and, mistaking Julia for Persephone, carry her away forever.

The water laps up to our ankles, shins, thighs, and then….

Ahhhhhhhh!

Bobbing Around the Blue Lagoon

We descend up to our necks into the most blissful warmth I’ve ever experienced. The few people we see have their faces covered in thick white, black, or green mud—golems and ghosts and goblins. We slosh slowly across the lagoon to one of the mud stations.

Included in our admission to the Blue Lagoon is a nice big gloopy scoop of silica-laden mud. Reputed to have healing properties and infused with minerals, the mud is to be spread liberally over our faces and left on for about 30 minutes.

Person relaxing in the Blue Lagoon in Iceland
Entrance to the Blue Lagoon includes a mineral-enriched face mask

Dutifully, we hold out our cupped hands to receive a ladleful of goop from an attendant dressed head to toe in cold-weather gear. He or she (can’t tell) spends all day in the freezing cold air, doling goop out to half-naked people immersed in hot water. It’s not a job I would want.

To be honest, the mud stings a bit, but it’s included in the price and I’m darned if I’ll wash it off before it’s nourished my skin with its mineral goodness.

We bob around some more as very slowly the sky lightens and glows pale pink in the east. Dawn is breaking over southwest Iceland at 9:00 am.

Exploring the Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon is massive and includes large outcroppings of lava, arched bridges to bob under, snow- covered hills emerging above the steam, and several steam caves.

Blue Lagoon geothermal spa in Iceland.
Blue Lagoon geothermal spa in Iceland.

Getting Your Free Drink

After exploring most of the attractively laid out complex of pools, we head over to the drinks bar. Included in the price of admission is a drink we can order from a surprising menu of choices that include alcohol. I don’t fancy beer or wine this early in the morning and so opt for a green health drink.

Later, my choice would turn out to be a mistake, but the combination of spinach, ginger, and banana goes down easy. Julia gets a strawberry smoothie that’s almost as thick as the mud on her face.

Our massages are scheduled for 10:30, still about 45 minutes away. We don’t like to admit it, but the truth is that the bobbing about is starting to get a bit old. We booked the 1:30 bus to Reykjavik. I’m hoping we can change the time because spending another three hours splashing about the lagoon is beginning to lack appeal.

We return to the main building, retrieve our robes and towels and go upstairs to sit in one of the lounge chairs overlooking the lagoon. The crowds are thickening, and as the sky lightens, the lagoon is starting to look more like a regular swimming pool than the ethereal mist-shrouded wonderland it was when we first submerged. We settle into the loungers and nap for about half an hour, warmed to the bone and rubbery with relaxation.

View over the Blue Lagoon at sunrise
View over the Blue Lagoon in the morning

Whatever is in the Blue Lagoon is good stuff.

By the time we go back downstairs to divest ourselves of our robes and return to the pool, every hook is taken. I’m not sure if the lagoon is at capacity, but it feels like it might be. We’re very glad we booked three months ahead.

Experiencing an In-Water Massage in the Blue Lagoon

Back out in the lagoon we bob across to the cordoned-off area. An attendant sitting in a booth tells us to wait by the entrance to the private area for our masseuse to call our names. We are excited again. We’re having massages, in the water, in Iceland!

Woo hoo!

A young woman wearing a wetsuit and with her hair under a cap comes over and cheerfully welcomes me. She asks where I’m from and tells me she’s spent time in Canada. She helps me onto a yoga mat. I stretch out on my back and she covers with me with a heavy sodden blanket, then pushes me across the water into the massage area.

For the next thirty minutes, she moves well-oiled hands between my back and the mat, kneading plane-stiffened muscles up my spine and to my neck and then along each arm.

I want to relax. I really want to relax and enjoy this new form of ecstasy. But for some reason, I can’t unclench my jaw. My masseur, in her lovely Icelandic accent, encourages me to relax. I try, but I feel exposed staring up into the grey void, still lightening with the coming day.

I close my eyes, but then I worry I’ll roll off the mat and drown. Every so often, the masseur shakes the mat to swoosh water up my back, warming me but not, unfortunately, relaxing me.

At the end of 30 minutes, she casts me adrift into an adjacent holding pond with other floating lumps. I meet up with Julia who has managed to accomplish bliss, and we float for a while before finally deciding that we’ve had enough.

Ending Our Blue Lagoon Experience

Back out in the main area, we agree that even though we’re supposed to stay another two hours, we’re done. It’s time to get dry and catch the first bus to Reykjavik.

We head for the changeroom. The combination of heat, the heavy mineral-sulfur smell of the lagoon waters, and the rich, green drink hit my system in an unpleasant way. I suddenly don’t feel at all well. I shall spare you the details.

Fortunately, after a drink of water and a half hour of sitting in the cafeteria, I’m well enough to stumble out into the cold to retrieve our luggage and wait for the bus.

Blue Lagoon Recommendations

Our Blue Lagoon experience—anticipated for months—is over. Do I recommend it?

Absolutely!

I will say, however, that you’re likely to want to spend less time than you think. Your entrance allows you to stay for as long as you want, but I’d allocate about two to three hours.

Blue Lagoon in Iceland
Even when it’s crowded, the steam partially obscures other people at the Blue Lagoon

The price is steep for a few hours of watery bliss, but the Blue Lagoon is special. Even though you’ll likely visit a few more thermal pools while in Iceland, I recommend also enjoying the over-priced Blue Lagoon. It’s a marvel of efficiency and really like nothing else I’ve ever experienced.

Massage?

Should you shell out for the in-water massage? To be honest, I don’t think so. Julia enjoyed herself, but I can’t say I did. It wasn’t awful—the masseuse did her best. But for some reason, floating on a mat under a sodden blanket made me more anxious than relaxed.

You’ll pay about €120 for a thirty-minute massage.

Comfort vs. Premium

On the website, you’ll see two prices—Comfort and Premium. We chose Comfort at a cost of about €80 which includes use of a towel and robe, one dollop of goop, and a drink. So far as I can tell, the Premium package at €100 doesn’t offer that much more.

Note that prices vary somewhat depending on exchange rates between Icelandic Kröna (ISK) and Euros.

Evening Visit

If you visit the Blue Lagoon after 7 pm (it closes at 10 pm), you pay about €48 for Comfort and €68 for Premium. If you’re lucky and visiting in the winter, you may see northern lights while you bask in the warm waters.

Hotel and Restaurant

The Blue Lagoon complex includes a hotel and a gourmet restaurant. While both are reputed to be excellent, I wouldn’t want to spend a night at the Blue Lagoon. Apart from splashing around the pools and eating, there’s not much else to do. The area surrounding the Blue Lagoon is pretty much a barren wasteland. After your two or three hours, take the bus into Reykjavik where you’ll find lots of good hotels and restaurants, great shopping, and plenty of interesting sights.

Other Thermal Pools in Iceland

The Blue Lagoon is not the only place in Iceland where you can dunk in a thermally heated pool. You’ll find public swimming complexes, many including multiple pools, steam rooms, and hot tubs, in most communities throughout Iceland.

You’ll pay a fraction of the cost of the Blue Lagoon to warm yourself up, with the added bonus of sharing the experience with locals rather than other tourists.

You won’t find many locals at the expensive Blue Lagoon. The vast majority of your swim mates will be tourists just like you.

If you travel to the north, you won’t want to miss the Mývatn Nature Baths—another awesome experience. But it’s very different from the Blue Lagoon.

Entrance to the Myvatn Nature Baths in northern Iceland
Entry to the Myvatn nature baths in northern Iceland

My advice? Go to both and throw in a visit to a public swimming pool. You’re in Iceland!

For more about Iceland, check out Travel in Iceland: Top Tips for an Awesome Trip and

Have you Visited the Blue Lagoon?

Let other Artsy Travelers know your experience at the Blue Lagoon. Do you think it’s worth the time and money? Leave your comments below.

Best Tips for Walking the Camino of Santiago

Everyone I know who has walked the Camino of Santiago (the Way) to Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain raves about the experience.

My friend and guest poster Elizabeth Petrie is no exception. She and her friend, Cheri, walked the Camino from Pamplona to Burgos and from Sarria to Santiago, with train travel between Burgos, León, and Sarria.

Elizabeth shares her experiences and recommendations in three posts on Artsy Traveler. In this post, learn her top tips for enjoying the Camino of Santiago. To find out how Elizabeth and Cheri organized their walk, read A Camino Journal: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela. Elizabeth’s recommendations for Burgos and León are included in Exploring Burgos and León.

Guest Poster Elizabeth Petrie

Retirement brings new opportunities, and one of my most cherished is having the chance to travel. New places, unique experiences, wonderful memories—what could be more enticing? 

For a long time, walking across northern Spain on the Camino has topped my “bucket list.” My friend, Cheri, shared the same interest, so we decided to make plans to walk the Camino together.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago

Here are tips for helping you plan an awesome experience on the Camino of Santiago.

Prepare for the Camino of Santiago

Distance walking was new to me, so I started training about a year before leaving for Spain. Cheri and I began with modest treks of six to eight kilometers twice a week and worked up to walks of ten to twelve kilometers. By the time we left for Spain, we could comfortably walk about fourteen kilometers with our backpacks partially full.

Plan Your Itinerary

The Camino of Santiago extends across several countries and hundreds of kilometers. Start in France on the Camino Francés or complete all or a portion of the Camino del Norte like we did.

We put together an itinerary that included stays in four-star hotels in the cities we’d pass through: Pamplona, Burgos, León, and our final destination, Santiago de Compostela. We knew we’d appreciate a bit of luxury after days of slogging along and nights spent in the dormitory-like albergues.

An albergue is a hostel that provides accommodation only for pilgrims walking the Camino of Santiago. To stay in an albergue, you need to have a Pilgrims Passport.

Obtain a Pilgrims Passport

The Pilgrims Passport contains spaces for the sellos (stamps) that prove you’ve walked that day and are entitled to stay in one of the state-run albergues.

If you start the Camino from St. Jean in France or from Pamplona, like we did, you need to get one stamp per day. If you walk only the last 100 kilometers from Sarria, you need to get two stamps each day.

So long as you have sufficient stamps and you state at the Pilgrims Office in Santiago de Compostela that you’ve completed the Camino for religious or spiritual reasons, you’ll receive the Compostela at the end of the journey in Santiago.

If you state other reasons for completing the Camino, you receive a different certificate to commemorate your journey.

You can also get a passport at some albergues and pilgrims’ offices along the Way.

However, to save time, I recommend you obtain your Pilgrims Passport before you leave. To do so, connect with the Pilgrims’ Association in your home country.

Camino Websites for the UK and the United States

For other organizations, search online for Pilgrims’ Association and the name of your country.

Choose When to Go

Consider walking the Camino in May or September. The weather from June to August is too hot, the hotel prices are higher, and the Way is much more crowded.

We found that May was perfect with regard to both the weather and the crowds (or lack of!). While you definitely won’t run into crowds in the winter months, be aware that many of the smaller albergues are closed from mid-October to mid-April.

Purchase a Guidebook

I recommend A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago (Camino Francés): St. Jean – Roncesvalles – Santiago by John Brierley. The book includes all the information you’ll need: route and town maps, and the location of coffee shops, restaurants, and albergues. The book also lists telephone numbers of the albergues so that you can book ahead.

Plan Your Daily Walk Duration

Plan to walk no more than 15 to 18 kilometers in a day (about five hours), depending on the terrain.

This distance is long enough to give you a reasonable goal, time to stop for sightseeing and meals, and the best chance of finding accommodations. Also, we found that blisters started forming if we attempted to walk more than 22 kilometers in one day.

On most days, we left the albergue around 8 am and arrived at our next albergue in the mid-afternoon. The earlier you get to the albergue you plan to stay in, the better your chances of finding accommodations. Many albergues do not take reservations, although sometimes you can speak with the hospitalero and ask them to call ahead for you.

Book Accommodations for the Final 100 Kilometers

While you do not need to book accommodations along the early stretches of the Way (and often you cannot), you should book places to stay along the last 100 kilometers.

The Way becomes increasingly crowded the closer you get to Santiago. We used booking.com to book small hotels along the last stretch of the Way and were glad we did. Each place we booked was clean and conveniently located.



Booking.com

Walk the Camino of Santiago

Here are some tips for helping you enjoy your time on the Camino.

Use the Send-Ahead Pack Service

Send your main pack ahead and hike with just a day pack. The send-ahead service was well worth the few extra euros (usually €3 to €5 per pack). You can send your pack from any Camino albergue in the morning to the albergue at your next stopping point. Call ahead to make sure the albergue you plan on staying at has available beds and will be open when the van arrives with your pack.

Take a Day Pack

Pack the following items in your day pack:

  • A full first-aid pack, complete with Compeed*and blister treatment, a needle and cotton thread, antibiotic ointment, Band-Aids, antiseptic spray, antihistamines, Afterbite, an elastic bandage, and sunscreen. You’ll find plenty of pharmacies along the Way in case you run out of anything.
  • A liter of water. If you sweat a lot, you will occasionally need to supplement your water with a local version of Gatorade.
  • A change of socks. Sweaty socks can bring on blisters. 
  • A change of shirt and rain gear if rain threatens.
  • Fresh or dried fruit, nuts, protein, etc. Depending on your route for the day, you’ll usually find small coffee bars and restaurants along the Way where you can purchase lunch.
  • Your passport, credit cards, and other essential documents. Also, carry a day’s worth of currency and never flash around large amounts of cash.

*Compeed is a miracle blister treatment available in Spanish farmacias.

I suggest stocking up on Compeed before you leave by buying it online. As soon as you feel a friction blister coming on, put the clear plastic Compeed over it and leave it on. You’ll never have another blister!

Limit Technology

On the Way, consider forgoing technology as much as possible. If you take a SmartPhone to check weather reports and make hotel bookings, particularly in the last 100 kilometers, purchase a cell phone package for Europe from your service provider or pick up a SIM card at a local provider such as Vodafone or Orange.

Use your phone to take pictures instead of carrying a heavy, expensive camera. Also, I suggest not wearing earbuds while you’re walking or you’ll miss the bird song and conversation.

One of my lasting memories on the Way is the sound of an amazing variety of bird songs.

Enjoy the Pilgrim’s Dinner

Have the pilgrim’s dinner when it’s offered at the albergues. You’ll get a cheap and tasty meal that includes soup or salad, a fish or pork entrée, dessert, and a glass of local wine. The local soups are delicious and filling.

Use Other Transportation as Needed

Consider occasionally taking a taxi or public transit when you get tired rather than risking injury. Walking the Camino in short stages will help conserve your energy.

Take Good Footwear

Wear hiking boots that are well broken in. Also, pack a pair of lighter shoes, such as Teva sandals, to occasionally give your feet a rest. Wear flip flops in the shower and around the albergue at the end of the day.

Marker along the Camino of Santiago with a running shoe
Some markers are decorated imaginatively.

Enjoy Meeting New People on the Camino

A highlight of walking the Way is meeting many wonderful and interesting people. People in the albergues and elsewhere along the Camino could not do enough for us. We always left our packs closed, and they were never disturbed, even when we left them in dormitories to go sightseeing. 

Slow Down

My best advice for walking the Camino is to slow down and savor the experience. In other words, stop and smell the roses!

Check out as many churches, shrines, historical sites, and civic plazas as you can. You’ll be amazed at the unexpected beauty and fascinating art and architecture.

Sign on the Santiago of Compostela
Sign on the Camino de Santiago

Northern Spain has been home to human beings for tens of thousands of years, from Neanderthal times to the present. You can hardly take a step without passing a fascinating site of historical significance.

For example, on some sections of the Way, you’ll be following, if not actually walking on, the original Roman roads. And in some of the smaller villages where the Spanish Civil War was fought in the 1930s, you’ll still see bullet holes in the walls of old barns and houses.

Suggested Itinerary

For a detailed breakdown of our itinerary that started in Pamplona, Spain and included stops in Burgos and León,along with a few train journeys, see the post A Camino Journey: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela.

I can’t imagine how our trip could have been any better. We enjoyed pretty much perfect weather, and we both kept well and healthy. In addition, we met interesting people, enjoyed delicious and reasonably-priced meals, and soaked up some of the rich history and culture of Navarra, La Rioja, and Galicia.

We also appreciated the spiritual nature of our journey to Santiago, taking time every day to reflect with humble gratitude upon our many blessings. Our trip was a pilgrimage in many senses of the word.

Do I recommend walking the Camino? Absolutely!

¡Vaya con Dios!

Walking the Way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela: A Camino Journal

Is walking the Camino (walking the way) across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela on your travel wish list? Artsy Travelers who Walk the Way will view countless treasures, including the portrait of Mary Magdalene by Leonardo da Vinci in Burgos, tiny medieval churches steeped in history, and soaring architectural wonders, such as the cathedral at León.

A promotional image for the Camino de Santiago journal, reading 'Walking the Way: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela' overlaid on a path and stone marker with the scallop shell symbol.

I haven’t walked the Way, but I’m considering it! Fortunately, Elizabeth Petrie, my friend and an Artsy Traveler guest poster, walked the Camino with her friend, Cheri, and shares her experiences and insights.

Overview of Walking the Way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela Camino Route

Elizabeth and Cheri walked first from Pamplona to Burgos. After a few days sightseeing in Burgos, they took the train to León and then to Lugos. From Lugos, they rejoined the Way at Sarria and walked the last 120 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela.

Elizabeth shares her experiences and recommendations in three posts on Artsy Traveler.

A smiling person standing next to a Camino de Santiago marker with a scallop shell symbol, wearing a blue hiking outfit and hat.
Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago

This post includes excerpts from the detailed journal that Elizabeth kept while walking the Way. If you’re interested in walking the Way yourself, read Elizabeth’s recommendations in Top Tips for Walking the Camino to Santiago de Compostela. And for suggestions about what to see and do in beautiful Burgos and León, read Exploring Burgos and León along the Camino of Santiago.

Elizabeth’s lively description of her journey is excerpted from the journal she kept while walking the Way between May 3 and June 1, 2017.

Part 1: Walking the Camino from Pamplona to Burgos

Welcome to Pamplona

The capital of Navarra, Pamplona charms us with its pretty streets, attractive green spaces, and many historical buildings. From our window at the NH Pamplona Hotel, we enjoy a southeast view of a nearby quarry that glows in the evening sun. 

A short stroll along the main boulevard brings us to La Cittadella, an old, star-shaped fortress with huge, thick walls. The fortress is situated in a large park through which the Camino passes.

On the day we start our Camino journey, we’ll only need to walk a short distance from our hotel to pick up the trail.

What to See in Pamplona

The central Plaza del Castillo is an attractive public square surrounded by beautiful old buildings. Pamplona is full of monuments, typical in a country with thousands of years of history. All the statues and monuments are well signed and beautifully maintained.

Especially interesting is the large bronze statue depicting the famous “running of the bulls” (el encierro de toros). The portrayal of some unfortunates being trampled or gored by the bulls looks very realistic. There’s not enough money in the world to convince me to do it, which is just as well since women typically don’t participate.

Monument depicting the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona, Spain, featuring bronze sculptures of bulls and runners in a dramatic chase scene.
Running of the Bulls Monument in Pamplona, Spain

Walking Tour of Pamplona

Consider taking a free walking tour with Free Walking Tour Pamplona.  You’ll explore the old town and visit the Gothic Cathedral of Santa Maria, the Plaza del Castillo, and the impressive fortifications that once protected the city. There’s a lot to see in Pamplona!

We’re On Our Way!

At the pilgrims’ albergue in front of the Gothic cathedral, we get our first stamp (estampilla) in our pilgrims’ passports (pasaportes de peregrinos).

We have officially begun walking the way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela! 

Day 1: Walking the Way from Pamplona to Puente la Reina: 27 kilometers

After three nights in lovely Pamplona, we’re feeling well rested and ready to begin walking the way on our first stretch of the Camino.

Starting Out

As the sun rises in a clear blue sky, we walk through the beautiful grounds of the Universidad de Navarra and out into lovely rolling countryside. Wild poppies are scattered among fields of newly planted crops. We hear birds singing in the fields and hedgerows.

Hikers hiking along a gravel path surrounded by green fields and trees near Pamplona, Spain, on the Camino de Santiago trail.
Setting off on the Way, west of Pamplona

We stop to get a stamp at a private albergue next to the 12th-century Iglesia de San Miguel. The fortified tower of the church was part of the Monasterio de los Hospitalarios de San Juan de Jerusalén.

The knights of the Hospitallers eventually became the Knights of St. John of Malta from which we get the St. John Ambulance service today. 

Our First Steep Section

The Alto del Perdón—the first steep section we encounter on the trail—is described in our guidebook as “not as difficult as you will have heard” and is estimated to take “only a half-hour”.

Wrong on both counts!

The trail climbs pretty much straight up—the hardest ascent along the whole Camino. Whenever we start feeling weary, we chant “Alto del Perdón, Alto del Perdón! Nothing is as hard as Alto del Perdón” in rhythm with our steps.

Eventually, we make it to the top where the views are spectacular. Both nearby and in the distance we see one of the many wind farms that take advantage of the strong breezes coming from the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Biscay.

Modern metal cut-outs describe the various methods that pilgrims used over the centuries to travel the Camino. One of the inscriptions reads, “where the road of the winds crosses the road of the stars.” 

Silhouette metal sculptures of pilgrims and animals on the summit of Alto del Perdón, Camino de Santiago, with a vast mountainous landscape in the background.
Cut-outs and view at the summit of the Alto del Perdón

Albergue de Santiago Apóstel in Puente la Reina

At our first albergue, we’re assigned two upper bunks (no ladders!) in a four-bunk room. After a hot shower, we enjoy a pilgrim’s dinner of salad, fish, water, and yogurt, all for just €20, including accommodation.

We’re gratified to have virtually no injuries or aches other than a couple of small blisters. I decide to alternate boots with shoes to avoid putting too much pressure on any one spot on my feet. 

The medieval Puente la Reina bridge in Navarre, Spain, reflecting perfectly on the calm waters of the river below.
Bridge leading into Puente la Reina

Day 2: Puente la Reina to Ayeguí: 20 kilometers

The next morning, the owner kindly calls ahead to book beds at the albergue in Ayeguí. He also confirms transportation of our packs for only €5 each. Normally, albergues do not take advance reservations. I wonder whether the fact that I speak Spanish helped!

The second day of walking the way is much easier than the first, even with a few strenuous uphill stretches. (Altos del Perdón, Altos del Perdón…). The countryside continues to amaze us with its many crops, flowers, and birdsong. Small lizards sun themselves on the stone walls that mark the route.

Lorca

We stop for coffee in Lorca, a medieval hill town with a wonderful view of the surrounding valley. The route out of Lorca drops very steeply down what is little more than a slippery, rocky gully. After a few more hours of walking, I feel a blister starting on my heel. We decide to take a taxi the rest of the way to Ayeguí.

I recommend making occasional use of taxis and public transport to save your feet. A small blister can become a large one very quickly and make walking agony.

Day 3: Ayeguí to Torres del Río: 27 kilometers

Our third day walking the way is a long one! We take a break in Irache, where a fountain with a dual spigot offers both water and wine. We fill our water bottles from one and take a sip from the other.

The sign on the fountain reads Pilgrim! If you wish to arrive in Santiago full of strength and vigour, just take a drop of this great wine and jump for joy. Another sign notes We invite you to enjoy in moderation; if you wish to take some wine along, you will have to buy it!

The Camino winds past numerous churches and historical buildings—too many to count and, unfortunately, too many to visit. Many are Romanesque in style, reminding us again of the extent of the Roman Empire at its height. 

Sometimes, we walk at the side of the local highway and at other times on gravel paths dating from ancient times. The Way between Villamayor de Monjardín and Los Arcos typifies the Camino. It’s a long, narrow road stretching into the distance between open fields, with very little shade and no place to fill our water bottles. 

Los Arcos

Arriving in Los Arcos is a relief for our feet and our thirsty throats. It’s a beautiful old town that has been inhabited since Roman times. The Iglesia de Santa María has a mixture of architectural styles (Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque), and the series of arches along the walls of the original cloisters gives the town its name. 

Los Arcos is a popular stopping point, but we decide to continue another six kilometers to Torres del Río. Hmm…perhaps not the best idea, as it turns out! The weather has warmed considerably, and there’s not a breath of wind. We sing, make lists of places we’d like to go someday, and generally distract ourselves from the trudge. 

A Camino de Santiago marker featuring a yellow scallop shell and arrow, topped with a hiking shoe and wildflowers, set against a green field
Some of the markers along the Way have been decorated by passing pilgrims

Finally, we arrive at the delightful little town of Sansol and take a taxi to Albergue La Pata de Oca at Torres del Río. What a treat! The main building is hundreds of years old, with thick stone walls and solid beams in the ceilings, all covered with plaster.

Our private room is upstairs under the rafters. The ceiling slopes so much that we have to stoop to open the window. The patio is lovely, with lots of flower pots filled with bright red geraniums.

We enjoy a delicious dinner of bean and chorizo soup, chicken, flan, and wine. After a long, hot day, we collapse into bed about 9:15.

Day 4: Torres del Río to Ventosa: 4 kilometers

We decide to take it easy after yesterday’s long walk and opt for a later start and a shorter walk with a taxi ride in between.

While relaxing over breakfast on the terrace, we meet Ian from Ireland. He tells us that he’s a former addict who has been clean for 26 years and has adopted his nephews (one of whom is on the autism spectrum) after the death of their parents.

Encounters with people like Ian and others from all over the world and with a variety of backgrounds is one of the most enjoyable aspects of our journey.

Before starting our walk, we visit the Romanesque Church of the Holy Sepulchre across the street from the albergue. Dating from the 12th century, the small, octagon-shaped church was founded by the Knights Templar during the time of the Crusades.

The dome’s ribbing forms the outline of an eight-sided star, typical of Moorish Spain. The 13th-century crucifix depicts Christ’s feet separately rather than crossed one over the other as is typical.

Day 5: Logroño to Ventosa: 21 kilometers

We stop for lunch in Navarrete, an attractive hill town with narrow cobblestoned streets leading to the town plaza. A small church–La Iglesia de la Asunción–doesn’t look particularly special from the outside. We almost don’t go in. Luckily, we did and found one of the most amazing Baroque retablos (altarpieces) in all of Spain. 

Our albergue in the tiny village of Ventosa has a typical set-up, with ten bunks to the room, plenty of hot water and many modern conveniences. Again, our pilgrims’ meal is delicious and very reasonably priced. For €10, we dine on paella with chorizo along with salad and a beer.

Day 6: Ventosa to Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada: 5 kilometers

Cheri’s blister and ankle are acting up, so we take a taxi and then a local bus to Santo Domingo where we stop for the night.

A rooster motif is everywhere in Santo Domingo, reflecting the legend of how a young man had been wrongly accused and executed for theft.

One version recounts that his parents had seen a vision of St. Dominic holding their son up alive. When they rushed to the magistrate to report this miracle, the judge laughed and said that the boy was as dead as the rooster and chicken on his plate. At that, the birds came alive and fluttered about the room, thereby “proving” that the young man was innocent.

To this day, a pen inside the cathedral holds a rooster and a hen (different ones every two weeks). It’s a sign of good luck if you hear the rooster crow.

Day 7: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado: 21 kilometers

On a day of mixed sun and cloud, we pass through the town of Viloria de Rioja, the birthplace of St. Dominic and from there into the province of Castilla y León. 

At the albergue in the evening, we enjoy our €10 pilgrims’ dinner of two courses and wine and chat with Marcelo from Argentina and David from San Sebastián. Our pleasant conversation covers everything from politics, to films, to the various people we’ve met on the Way, to our common love of travel and adventure.

Day 8: Belorado to Cardeñuelo Río Pico: 9 kilometers

We carry our big packs today and find that after more than a week of walking the way on the Camino, we’re getting stronger.

The Albergue Santa Fe in Cardiñuela where we stop for the night has just one double room left, complete with a private bath, towels, soap and shower gel, and a television. With the pilgrims’ dinner included, the cost is about €55 each—another example of the excellent travel bargains to be found on the Camino.

Day 9: Cardeñuela Río Pico to Burgos: 17 kilometers

A strong, cool breeze in the morning makes for good walking weather. As we approach Burgos, we pass through several prosperous-looking neighbourhoods which likely are bedroom communities of the city itself. 

The Camino enters Burgos via a pretty walk along the river. When we finally reach the center of town, we take a taxi to the AC Hotel which is perfectly situated about two blocks from the central plaza and the cathedral.

We enjoy tapas at one of the outdoor cafés in the colonnaded central plaza.

Part Two: Walking the Way from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela

Days 10 to 14: For the next several days, Elizabeth and Cheri tour Burgos and then León. Read Elizabeth’s suggestions about what to see there in the post Exploring Burgos and León.

Day 15: Samos to Sarria: 21 kilometers

After several days exploring Burgos, León , and Lugos (see Exploring Burgos and León ), we take the train to Sarria, drop off our packs at the albergue La Casona de Sarria and then take a taxi to Samos to explore the Benedictine Monastery.

Wow! The Benedictine monastery at Samos is stunning, with some sections dating back to the 6th century. Currently, only eight monks and two novices are in residence, with some of the original monks’ cells now serving as simple accommodations for people participating in organized religious retreats.

Benedictine Monastery of San Julián de Samos in Galicia, Spain, surrounded by lush greenery and a reflective stream under a cloudy sky.
Benedictine monastery of San Julian de Samos located in Samos, Lugo, Galicia

The interior cloister at the monastery is the largest in Spain, and some of the walls display original frescoes.

Back on the Camino: Samos to Sarria

After a quick lunch, we resume walking after our days off for sightseeing in Burgos, León , and Lugo. We set off back to Sarria, a walk of about twelve kilometers and one of the most beautiful stages of our journey.

The route starts behind the monastery, winds past the kitchen gardens and along cool shaded paths alongside a small river, with some ascents and some descents but few signs of modern habitation. We pass a couple of 12th-century wayside chapels, small abandoned houses, wooden bridges, and old slate drystone walls.

You can almost imagine yourself a thousand miles from any center of population and thousands of years back in time. One farmer is repairing his drystone slate wall and lets us fill our water bottles from his well. We stop a bit farther on for a cold drink in a typical taberna do Camino.

Day 16: Sarria to Portomarín: 24 kilometers

We start our day by crossing the old Roman bridge just down from the albergue. The stela marker informs us that we are 113 kilometers from Santiago.

At this point of our walk, we’re encountering many more people on the Camino, particularly Europeans taking a week to do the minimum journey (100 kilometers). To receive the completion compostela in Santiago, pilgrims must present their passports bearing at least two stamps per day for the final 100 kilometers.

As we’ve come to expect, the countryside is absolutely beautiful, with rolling hills, manageable ascents, and plenty of lush vegetation providing shade in the increasingly hot weather. This region is quite well watered by rain, and there are lots more dairy cattle and other livestock grazing in green pastures. 

Scenic view of the San Estevo water reservoir near Portomarín, Galicia, Spain, with a vibrant green valley, river, and rolling hills under a cloud-streaked sky.
Countryside along the Way in Galicia

At one short rest stop, we listen to a piper in Galician dress—a reminder of the strong Celtic influence in this part of Spain. Much of the day’s route follows the old Roman road, with some of the original Roman stone walls still marking out different pastures. 

A very old church marks the beginning of the final 100 kilometers to Santiago.  

Day 17: Portomarín to Palas de Rei: 26 kilometers

Today’s route includes ups and downs through rolling and beautiful countryside. We’re starting to become blasé about the medieval churches. Ho hum, 14th century.

We find a fair bit of traffic along the Camino and several small tour groups.

Part of the Camino passes through thick stands of eucalyptus trees, originally imported from Australia. The scent of the leaves that have fallen to the ground and crushed by passing feet is delightful. 

Day 18: Palas de Rei to Melide to Arzúa: 17 kilometers

Despite the heat, we enjoy a good night’s sleep followed by an excellent breakfast.

In a small chapel along the route, I’m fascinated by a poster of a stunning Madonna and Child (Mater Divinae Providentiae) painted by Scipione Pulzone da Gaeta in the mid-16th century.

I’ve never seen a Madonna which so tenderly expresses the love of mother for child. How different from the usual dreamy, remote images of Mary and the baby Jesus. This one is all about maternal love and one of the loveliest I’ve ever seen. I’ve never heard of this artist, and I plan to learn more about him.

The Camino from Melide to Arzúa is not a difficult stage, but it does have ascents and descents virtually the entire way. Fortunately, the many groves of fragrant conifers and eucalyptus trees along the path are very pleasant and make the steeper inclines much more manageable. The official markers remind us that we’re getting closer to our final destination. 

Later this afternoon, I suffer the only mishap of the entire trip when I stumble into a patch of nettles. Ouch! But Cheri quickly pulls out the antihistamine tablets and After Bite lotion, and, almost immediately, the rash subsides and the itch disappears.

Day 19: Arzúa to Pedrouzo: 22 kilometers

Our water and energy drinks at the ready, we set off early before the heat sets in and make pretty good time, even on the up and down stretches. The crowds are certainly growing. 

At one stop, we purchase coffee, bananas, and small concha patches sold on the honor system/por donativo. Next to the building is a “wall of wisdom” (muro de la sabiduría) containing interesting quotes and reflections on travel. I’m sure the quotes keep conversation going among the pilgrims as they near the end of a long journey. 

An interesting feature of the places we pass are the corn cribs—large covered storage areas on stilts. The walls are perforated to allow air circulation but not rodents, and their height prevents livestock from investigating too closely and knocking them over.

Day 20: Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela: 22 kilometers

Our last day of walking the Camino!

We’re up and away before sunrise on what promises to be another warm day. The crowds have become thick, and we sometimes have to jostle for room to manoeuvre around groups. 

Approaching Santiago de Compostela, the Camino skirts the northern end of the airport, which is clean and modern. We encounter a couple more steep spots, and then, suddenly, we’ve reached the official city limits of Santiago.

To enter the city proper, we cross a rickety plank footbridge into a semi-residential area and up into the original medieval town. We descend a flight of stairs, walk through a large portal set into very thick stone walls, and enter the central plaza of Santiago de Compostela.

The scaffold-covered cathedral looms into the rapidly clouding sky. We’ve made it!

We head to the new tourist center to get our official completion credential. There’s a long queue, and for a while we wait outside in the patio area. Almost immediately after we enter the building, a big thunderstorm breaks, rain teeming down on the poor folks still out walking on the Camino or waiting outside to get their final stamp.

Arrival in Santiago de Compostela

We celebrate our achievement with an empanada and beer in the restaurant of the Santiago Parador—a former hospital founded by Ferdinand and Isabella in the 1490s.

We enjoy a deep, restful sleep, despite the thunderstorms. By mid-morning, the weather has cleared, and we return to the cathedral and tour the adjacent museum, timing it so that we can enter the cathedral itself from the cloister.

Visit to the Cathedral of Santiago

The entrance to the cathedral closes at 11:45 in preparation for the Pilgrims’ Mass, and by 11:15, it’s already filling up. We snag a spot on a small ledge at the base of one of the huge pillars near the back and have a reasonably good view. 

Facade of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, Spain, showing intricate Baroque architecture and two towering spires against a deep blue sky
The Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela

The service starts, and the nun leading the chants and responses has the most glorious voice. We recognize many of the service prayers, even though they are in Spanish: the collect, the Lord’s Prayer, the reading from the Old and New Testaments (Corinthians and John), the general confession, and so on.  

The highlight of the service, and the reason that many people are there, is the swinging of the enormous censer across the transept. At least five or six deacons or lay brothers manoeuvre it into place and set it swinging, and the sweep of its pendulum action gets higher and higher. Ropes and pulleys are affixed to the ceiling, and the angle of the swing is maybe 120° or more. 

After the service, people line up behind the main altar to hug a plaster statue of St. James. Meanwhile, there are practically no people lined up to descend to the crypt to see St. James’ ossuary, an amazing chest of embossed silver. If the bones of the saint are really contained within, it’s interesting to think that here was someone who actually knew Christ. 

Back at the hotel after a bit of shopping, we calculate the distance we’ve walked. From our first day of walking on May 6 to our final day in Santiago de Compostela on May 26, we logged 338 kilometers!

Conclusion

Would I do the Camino again? Absolutely! Do I recommend it to anyone who is reasonably fit and looking for an adventure? Of course!

Something magical happens when you slow down to tread in the footsteps of the thousands of pilgrims who have walked the Way.

You hear birdsong, feel the sun warm your face, view stunning landscapes steeped in history, enjoy wonderful food, and meet people from all over the world.

The Camino beckoned and I’m very glad I followed.

For more on the Camino, read Elizabeth’s recommendations in Top Tips for Walking the Camino to Santiago de Compostela. And for suggestions about what to see and do in beautiful Burgos and León, read Exploring Burgos and León along the Camino of Santiago.

Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris

Choosing the nine best small museums in Paris to feature in a post about my fave art museums is like choosing a favorite child. It’s impossible and shouldn’t be attempted! But I’m going to do it anyway in the hope of introducing you to some museums that you’ve not yet visited.

You’ll notice I’ve left the three biggies off my list: the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay and the Centre Pompidou. All three are über must-sees, and you’ll find information about them in this post that matches Parisian sights with bistro dishes from my novel Love Among the Recipes.

But the operative word in this post is small, some may even say obscure! You will find some fairly well-known museums on my list, but you may also find several that you have not heard of, let alone visited.

I’ve organized the museums by arrondissement, starting with the Orangerie in the 1st arrondissement and ending with the Marmottan Museum in the 16th arrondissement. The map belows shows the location of each museum.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

#1: The Orangerie

The Musée de l’Orangerie is not far from the Louvre and overlooks the Jardin des Tuileries. I always enjoy popping into the Orangerie to revisit one of the most compelling exhibitions in Paris.

Here, in two consecutive oval salons, you’ll view the eight large paintings that make up Les Nymphéas by Monet. Lit by natural light from the ceiling and oriented from west to east, the light follows the course of the sun.

Detail from a painting of waterlilies by Claude Monet

Monet helped to design these rooms in which his paintings are displayed. He wanted visitors to immerse themselves in the paintings and find solace in their beauty following the horrors of World War I. Monet certainly knew what he was about. Walking through the two salons of the Orangerie feels like being submersed in a cool, blue, calm oasis. As you can tell, I love this space!

Take a virtual tour of the Orangerie.

Visiting the Orangerie

Go to the Orangerie as early in the day as possible to avoid the crowds. Contemplating these incredible paintings is best done in quiet and solitude.

In the first salon, the four compositions depict the reflections of the sky and vegetation in the water from morning to evening. The colors vary from yellows and pinks to greens. I find the paintings the first salon both cheerful and soothing.

But my favorite is the second salon, where the dominant blues inspire a mood of intense calm. Relax on one of the benches and let the beauty of the pieces wash over you. You’ll almost feel as if you’re actually in nature, rather than simply looking at depictions of nature.

After viewing the water lily paintings, check out the rest of the Orangerie. The permanent collection includes works by most of the greats, including Renoir, Gauguin, Cézanne, and Sisley.

Special Exhibitions at the Orangerie

We’ve seen some beautifully curated special exhibitions at the Orangerie, most recently an exhibition of Spanish impressionists. Consult the website to see what’s on.

The Orangerie is located at the Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde. The closest Métro is Tuileries. Make sure to buy your ticket in advance so you can skip the line-up. The museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm daily except Tuesdays.

#2: Picasso Museum

Situated in the heart of Le Marais, the Musée National Picasso-Paris is home to over 5,000 works in a comprehensive collection that includes paintings, sculptures, and engravings.

Housed in the historic Hôtel Salé, a private mansion at 5 rue de Thorigny, the building has been described as “the grandest, most extraordinary, if not the most extravagant, of the grand Parisian houses of the 17th century”.

You’ll also see sketches, studies, drafts, notebooks, etchings, photographs, films, illustrated books, and other documents that demonstrate Picasso’s creative process.

If you’re a fan of modern art, and Picasso in particular, this beautiful museum will keep you well entertained and informed.

The Picasso Museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 10.30 am to 6 pm and weekends from 9.30 am to 6 pm. The museum is popular, so buy your ticket in advance.

#3: Cluny Museum

If I had to choose my favorite art museum in Paris, I would have to say the Musée de Cluny – Le monde médiéval, known colloquially as the Cluny. I enjoy it more than the three biggies for several reasons.

First, it’s manageable, unlike its larger cousins. You can tour the Cluny in an afternoon and still have energy to enjoy the lively 5th arrondissement. Spend an afternoon pacing the massive galleries at the Louvre and you’ll need an hour relaxing by a fountain in the Tuileries to recover.

Second, the Cluny features room after room of outlandishly awesome objets d’art from the Middle Ages–the historical period I most prefer.

Third, you’ll see the gorgeous Lady and the Unicorn tapestries woven from silk and wool in Paris around 1500. Admiring these six tapestries is worth the price of admission alone.

What to See at the Cluny

Take a seat in the special circular room that houses the tapestries and enjoy decoding how each of the first five tapestries depicts a different sense: taste, touch, smell, hearing, and sight. And what is the meaning of the sixth tapestry titled À mon seul désir? The jury’s still out, but some say the tapestry represents love.

The Lady and the unicorn Desire

The sixth tapestry: À mon seul désir Photo: Wikipedia

In addition to the tapestries, the Cluny offers amazing displays of wooden statues, stained glass, objects made from ivory, stone sculptures, and numerous household objects, furniture, paintings… the list goes on.

On one visit to the Cluny, I happened upon a concert of medieval choral music in the sculpture courtyard. Hearing that music while surrounded by the objects made during the same period was transporting. I love coming upon unexpected performances when I’m traveling in Europe. Keep your eyes peeled (as my Dad used to say). You’re bound to discover all sorts of opportunities to enjoy performances in some of your favorite museums and galleries.

Row of sculptures in the Cluny Museum in Paris, one of the best small museums in Paris
Sculptures in the marvelous Cluny Museum

Check the website to find out if concerts are scheduled when you’re in Paris. In the meantime, you can explore the collections at the Cluny on the museum’s comprehensive website.

The Cluny is located at 28 Rue du Sommerard. The closest Métros are Cluny-La Sorbonne, Saint-Michel, and Odéon.

#4: Zadkine Museum

The Musée Zadkine has been called a “folly” in the middle of Paris. On rue d’Assas in the 6th arrondissement and close to the Luxembourg Gardens and hip Montparnasse, the Zadkine Museum was once the studio of Ossip Zadkine (1890-1967), a sculptor of Russian origin.

The small exterior door leads you into a calm, green space that feels miles away from the bustle of Paris. You’ll find sculptures in a variety of media, including wood, stone, clay, and even bronze, along with graphic works and illustrations, photographs, tapestries, and archival material.

Musée Zadkine - Jardin

Sculpture by Zadkine at the Zadkine Museum. Photo: Wikipedia

Shortly before he died, Zadkine wrote, “But it is in any case very beautiful to end your life with a chisel and mallet in your hands.”

The Musée Zadkine is located at 100 bis Rue d’Assass and is open from 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday. The closest Métros are Notre-Dame des Champs and Vavin.

#5: Quai Branly Museum

Not far from the Eiffel Tower but still in the 7th arrondissement and close to the river, the spectacular Musée du Quai Branly Jacques Chirac is a must-see. I never tire of visiting this museum because there is such an incredible number of things (370,000 apparently) to ponder and enjoy.

The Quai Branly houses a remarkable collection of art and objects from around the globe organized into four geographical areas—Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas.

I love this museum’s attention to detail. Interactive screens set up in alcoves around the museum provide in-depth information about specific exhibits. You could spend weeks here and only scratch the surface.

Exterior of the Quai Branly Museum in Paris

The range and complexity of the objects displayed is a testament to human creativity through the ages. Set aside half a day to explore this incroyable museum.

Special exhibitions are also featured. On one visit, we saw an exhibition of Picasso’s collection of art from around the world, including Africa.

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 7:00 pm (Thursdays until 10:00 pm).

#6: Rodin Museum

The Musée Rodin in the 7th arrondissement is simply gorgeous. Housed in the magnificent Hôtel Biron and surrounded by three hectares of sculpture-studded gardens, the Musée Rodin celebrates the work of one of France’s premier sculptors.

Check out The Thinker perpetually contemplating life in the garden then go inside and marvel at the statue called The Kiss. Ooh la la! Wander through room after chandeliered room of sculptures—some marble, some plaster, some bronze. The sheer volume and range of work is overwhelming.

Rodin Museum in Paris, one of the best small museums in Paris.
Rodin Museum in Paris

The Musée Rodin is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6:30 pm.

#7: Musée Maillol

In a quiet area of the 7th arrondissement, the Musée Maillol is well known by Parisian art lovers for its special exhibitions but is not as well known by visitors. We’ve seen excellent exhibitions at the Maillol, including an collection of paintings by van Gogh and a spectacular display of paintings by Artemisia Gentileschi.

The exhibitions we’ve seen have featured several walls’ worth of information about the paintings—all in French. If you don’t read French, ask if a handout with an English translation is available.

The Musée Maillol was established by Dina Vierny, an artists’ model who became a famous singer, art dealer, collector, museum director, and Aristide Maillol’s muse for the final ten years of his life. The top floors of the Musée Maillol feature many works by Maillol, including monumental sculptures of female nudes. Maillol’s work is amazing and beautifully displayed. You’ll also find works by several 20th-century artists.

The Musée Maillol is open daily from 10:30 am to 6:30 pm when exhibitions are on (Fridays until 8:30 pm).

#8: Gustave Moreau Museum

The Musée National Gustave Moreau in the 9th arrondissement at the foot of Montmartre is quite the revelation. If you’re familiar with the work of the symbolist painter Moreau, you’ll know that you’re in for a treat. The museum occupies the painter’s family home and includes hundreds of paintings and watercolors showcasing the work of a painter many consider the master of French Symbolism.

Some of the paintings are massive and contain so much intricate detail that your eyes get sore just looking at them!

Gustave Moreau Salomé 1876

Salome by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia

Jupiter and Semele - Gustave Moreau

Jupiter and Semele by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia

The museum is open daily, except Tuesdays, from 10 am to 6 pm.

#9: Marmottan Museum

Located in the stylish 16th arrondissement, the Musée Marmottan Monet is one of the loveliest art museums in Paris. Highlights of the collection are the works by the impressionists Claude Monet and Berthe Morisot. In addition, you’ll see a collection from the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and the Second Empire, along with paintings by other impressionists, such as Caillebotte, Degas, Pissarro, Renoir, Sisley, and Rodin.

Berthe Morisot, who painted The Sisters shown above, is one of the artists frequently exhibited at The Marmottan

The Marmottan is a bit of a trek from the Metro (La Muette or Ranelagh) but worth the effort required to get there. It features a great museum shop (I’m a sucker for a good museum shop).

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (last admission: 5.30 pm), with extended hours to 9 pm on Thursdays (last admission: 8.30 pm).

Conclusion

Have you been to any of these art museums in Paris? Do you have other suggestions for artsy travelers? Share your recommendations in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts about art in Paris:

Booming Berlin: Best Bets for the Artsy Traveler

Berlin is an artsy sightseer’s candy store. If you love museums, you’ll love Berlin. It’s worth at least three full days of your sightseeing time. If you have more time, you’ll find lots more to do and see. It’s a big city with a whole lotta history.

We spent a week in Berlin when my husband Gregg Simpson had an exhibition there and didn’t come close to seeing everything we wanted to. Check out Gregg’s paintings at Gregg Simpson Art.

In this post I feature the highlights I recommend in Berlin. To help you plan your time, I’ve grouped the sites in geographical order, moving from western Berlin through the historic core and Museum Island in eastern Berlin to the Kreuzberg neighborhood in south Berlin (where we stayed) and the fantastic Jewish museum.

Orientation to Berlin

The map below includes the places mentioned in this post. Click a number to find out more information.

Map created with Wanderlog, a travel planner on iOS and Android

Getting Around Berlin

Make use of Berlin’s efficient subway system. The city is spread out, and distances between the places you’ll want to see require a lot of walking. Save your legs for touring the museums! For information about transit in Berlin, see the Official Website of Berlin.

Western Berlin

The two major sites we enjoyed in the former West Berlin are the relaxing Tiergarten and the Kulturforum near Potsdamer Platz.

Tiergarten

Chill out in the fabulous Tiergarten (#1), Berlin’s massive central park that stretches from the Brandenburg Gate to the Berlin Zoological Garden. We spent the better part of a day there strolling the pathways and enjoying brunch overlooking a lake. From the Tiergarten, you can’t miss the Victory Column, built in 1864. Climb it to enjoy a panoramic view over Berlin.

Potsdamer Platz and Kulturforum

Check out the modern skyscrapers and shopping malls in Potsdamer Platz (#2), then walk over to the Kulturforum where you’ll find a complex that includes the Gemäldegalerie and the Philharmonie Berlin.

In the complex, you’ll also find the Musical Instruments Museum (Musikinstrumenten Museum) and the Museum of Decorative Arts (Kunstgewerbemuseum (#3)), touted as Berlin’s version of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Head here if you’re a fan of the applied arts. The collection of women’s fashions over the centuries is especially good.

Gemäldegalerie

An impressive number of European masters grace the walls of this wonderful art museum. The sleek, modern building houses works by Rembrandt, Dürer, Brueghel, Rubens, and Vermeer along with Italian masterpieces by Giotto, Botticelli, and Caravaggio. On the Gemäldegalerie (#4) website, take a virtual tour of several of the main galleries.

Allocate a morning to enjoying the collection at the Gemäldegalerie.

Philharmonie Berlin

The magnificent home of the Berlin Philharmonic (Berlin Philharmoniker)(#5) will take your breath away. With its unusual tent-like shape and bright yellow color, the concert hall has been a landmark in Berlin since 1963, well before the fall of the Berlin Wall.

The Berliner Philharmonie concert hall in Berlin, Germany

We scored tickets to Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring performed by the Deutsches Symphonie Orchester Berlin. The orchestra’s concerts are less expensive than concerts featuring the Berlin Philharmonic, and the quality was fantastic. Hearing Stravinsky played in the iconic hall was a special experience.  

Check event listings for the dates you’ll be in Berlin and consider getting tickets to a concert at the Philharmonie Berlin.

If you’re not able to see a performance, try to find time for a guided tour of the Philharmonie Berlin. One-hour tours are offered daily at 1:30 pm except during July and August and several days at Christmas. The tours are conducted in German and English.

Historic Core of Berlin

When you arrive in Berlin, make your first stop the area around the iconic Brandenburg Gate at the entrance to the Tiergarten. An 18th-century neoclassical monument built by Frederick William II, the gate once stood forlornly in no-man’s land between East and West Berlin.

Reichstag

The big-ticket site in Berlin is the Reichstag (#6)(Bundestag), Germany’s historic parliament buildings. Also located in no-man’s land between East and West Berlin throughout the Cold War, the Reichstag was rebuilt in 1999. With its glass dome dominating the skyline, the Bundestag has become a symbol of a unified Germany.

Entrance is free but you’ll need to make a reservation at www.bundestag.de. Be sure to get tickets well in advance or you may be out of luck. You’ll need to show your passport to pass through security.

Brandenburg Gate

Walk through the Brandenburg Gate (#7)—something you couldn’t do until the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. The weight of history hangs heavy over the gate. Stand in front of it and realize that armies from Napoleon to Hitler have marched through its massive archway.

Now it’s a selfie stop.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

Walk into this labyrinth of 2,711 pillars of different sizes. The sobering—and gigantic—memorial (#8) to the six million Jews executed by the Nazis is a center of calm in the middle of bustling Berlin. In the Information Center, a continuously running soundtrack recites the names of known victims.

Regrettably, the memorial attracts more than its share of selfie sticks with people posing against the pillars and even climbing and jumping on them.

Go directly into the memorial to get away from the photography mayhem at the peripheries and to experience the dislocation and fear that inevitably arises when you try to find your way out again.

Unter Den Linden

The Unter Den Linden (#9) is the Champs-Élysées of Berlin. Stroll down it from the Brandenburg Gate and stop to sample a currywurst at one of the many kiosks in the center strip. A currywurst is Berlin street food consisting of a fried pork sausage (Bratwurst) cut into bite-sized chunks and seasoned with curry ketchup. Eat it with French fries. Fortunately, you’ll walk off the calories pretty quickly.

Plate of currywurst--street food in Berlin
Traditional German currywurst, served with chips

I’ve tried currywurst once, and I’m good now. It’s an acquired taste, but when in Berlin…

Ampelmänn Stores in Berlin

At the corner of Unter den Linden and Friedrichstrasse—another main drag—you’ll find the flagship Ampelmänn shop (#10).

This place ranks high on my list of favorite souvenir stores. The entire store is devoted to selling products inspired by the iconic Ampelmännchen pedestrian crossing symbols.

You’ll always know when you’re in a neighborhood that was once part of East Berlin because you’ll see Ampelmänn on the illuminated pedestrian signals. The green striding one tells you to Go, and the red standing one tells you to Stop. Both Ampelmännchen wear jaunty, flat-topped hats.

I don’t know why, but I fell in love with Ampelmänn and even bought a plastic one for my keychain. Berlin has several Ampelmänn shops. Search for Ampelmänn on Google maps and you might find one near your hotel. At the very least, treat yourself to a tea towel!

Museum Island

Keep walking down the Unter den Linden and you’ll eventually arrive at Museum Island, home to five world-class museums.

You could spend days, weeks even, exploring the museums here. Each historic museum building was built under a different Prussian king, with the whole site declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.

I recommend visiting Museum Island over two days. You can’t see all five museums in a day without completely wearing yourself out, so don’t even try!

Neues Museum

Of the five, my favorite is the Neues Museum (#11), where you’ll find the bust of Nefertiti along with several floors of treasures from the prehistoric, Egyptian, and classical antiquities eras. The displays on Floor 3 are awesome. Here you’ll find the artifacts from the Stone Age, Bronze Age, and other cultures of the pre-Roman Iron Age.

All the displays are well described in English. You could spend days in this one museum alone.

Pergamon Museum

The Pergamon Museum (#12) draws the crowds because of its jaw-dropping buildings from ancient Babylonia, Assyria, and the Islamic world. Unfortunately, you won’t see the enormous Pergamon Altar until 2025, but exhibits such as the Ishtar Gate (46 feet tall and 100 feet wide), the grandest of Babylon’s gates built during the time of Nebuchadnezzar, are worth the price of admission.

Alte Nationalgalerie

The Old National Gallery (#13) is the place to see German art, including the work of David Caspar Friedrich which pretty much sums up Romanticism. Check out his craggy mountains, bare-limbed trees, and swirling clouds that celebrate nature in the raw.

The gallery also includes works by French and German Impressionists.

Bode & Alte Museums

These two museums will appeal to connoisseurs of Byzantine art, historic coins, ecclesiastical art (Bode), and other classical antiquities from Etruscan, Greek, and Roman times.

If your time is limited, go to the Neues Museum and the Pergamon Museum on separate days, with one day split with the German History Museum (#14).

The museums on Museum Island are pricey. Consider purchasing the 3-day Museum Pass Berlin for €29 to gain entrance to just about every museum you’ll want to see in Berlin. See below.

Other Museums in the Historic Core

Deutsches Historisches Museum

Not far from Museum Island is this massive museum which presents 2,000+ years of German history. Over 7,000 exhibits take you from the early Middle Ages to the present day.

It’s another exhausting experience so pace yourself!

DDR Museum

I enjoyed this museum which shows what life was like in communist East Germany—the DDR (#15)(Deutsche Demokratische Republik).

Many kitschy items are on display, including the reconstruction of a typical home from the period, complete with drawers and cupboards that you’re encouraged to open and rifle through.

Buy your tickets for this popular museum in advance to avoid long lines.

Spree River Cruise

On the river not far from the DDR Museum and behind Berlin Cathedral, hop onto a Spree River Cruise. For a relaxing hour, you’ll listen to an English audio guide and enjoy a riverside view of amazingly nifty modern architecture in the former West Berlin.

You can get off at the Tiergarten, like we did, for some quality nature time – or stay on the boat until it turns around and returns to the dock.

Buy tickets at the dock or online before you go.

South Berlin

Two museums we enjoyed in this area of Berlin, near where we stayed in Kreuzberg in south Berlin, are the Asisi Panorama of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum.

Checkpoint Charlie

You can’t miss Checkpoint Charlie (#16), with its costumed guards and legions of tourists snapping pictures. In the souvenir shops on both sides of the street, you’ll find Soviet army hats and other kitschy memorabilia of the Cold War. The area is kind of a DDR Disneyland.

Between 1961 and 1989, Checkpoint Charlie, located in the middle of Friedrichstrasse, was one of the few places where people could legally pass between East Berlin and West Berlin. The giant back-to-back photographs of two young soldiers dominate the area.

Facing east, the photograph shows a young Soviet soldier (see below). Facing west, the photograph shows a young American soldier. The disconnect represented by the photograph remains a salutary warning that the Cold War wasn’t that long ago.

Photograph of a young Soviet soldier at Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin
Photo of a young Soviet soldier faces east at Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin.

Asisi Panorama–Die Mauer (The Wall)

While in Berlin, I became fascinated by its recent Cold War past. You’ll find museums and memorials commemorating the Cold War throughout Berlin, including the DDR Museum mentioned earlier.

I enjoyed the Asisi Panorama: Die Mauer (The Wall), located across the street from Checkpoint Charlie. The Panorama is a multi-storey immersive experience created by artist Yadegar Asisi in which you step back in time to 1980s Berlin and peer over the Wall from West Berlin into East Berlin.

Climb a set of stairs in front of a massive curved screen. You are five meters back and four meters up on the western side of the Berlin Wall, watching a day unfold over the course of 24 hours.

Sophisticated lighting effects cycle through changes from day to night every half hour or so in the shadow of the guard towers. You experience the contrast between the lively streets and graffiti-daubed wall on the West Berlin side and the drabness and aura of danger of East Berlin.

I was riveted–and fascinated that the scenes depicted on-screen in East Berlin happened a relatively short time ago.

The Berlin Wall existed for almost thirty years of my lifetime, and yet now when you walk around Berlin, you often have no idea when you’re in the former East Berlin. Your only clues are the pedestrian crossing signals (Ampelmänn!) and the stark utilitarian facades of some of the government buildings. Thirty years of unification have blurred the divisions, and pretty much everyone under the age of 35 has little or no memory of the Cold-War past.

Buy tickets in advance to avoid line-ups.

The Jewish Museum Berlin

Housed in a spectacular modern building, the Jewish Museum Berlin (#17) is a must-see. The museum chronicles Jewish history and culture in Germany from the Middle Ages to the present day.

The building itself adds to the compelling visitor experience, with its bold zigzag design and occasional empty spaces (called voids) that stretch the full height of the building and symbolize the cultural loss caused by the Holocaust.

In one space, metal discs representing upturned faces make weirdly disturbing sounds as you walk across them. The effect underscores the dehumanization of the Holocaust.

Room of metal discs representing upturned faces in the Jewish Museum
A room in the Jewish Museum
Exterio of the Jewish Museum
Exterior of the Jewish Museum

Stumble Stones (Stolpersteine)

As you walk around Berlin, particularly in the old Jewish quarter north of Museum Island, you’ll come across slightly raised stones set into the sidewalk and polished by the thousands of feet that have walked over them.

Called stumbling stones (#18), each 10-square-centimeter polished brass square is inscribed with the name of an individual or family that once lived in the building you’re passing.

The inscription on each stone begins “Here lived”, followed by the victim’s name, date of birth, and fate: internment, suicide, exile or, most often, deportation and murder.

Dr. Martin Happ and Sophie Happ were deported from their home in 1943 and murdered (ermordet) in Auschwitz.

Over 70,000 stumble stones are laid in sidewalks in more than 1,200 cities and towns across Europe and Russia.

I wanted to stop and read each one as we walked along the streets, but there were so many, it was heart wrenching. The stumble stones have been controversial, but I found them to be moving tributes to people who were going about their daily lives until ensnared by the horrors of fascism.

According to the Guardian, despite their international scope, the Stolpersteine are a grassroots initiative. Local groups – often residents of a street, or schoolchildren working on a project – unite to research the biographies of local victims and to raise the €120 it costs to install each stone.

Museum Pass & Other Tour Options

I recommend purchasing the three-day Museum Pass Berlin. At €29, the pass gets you into 30+ museums in Berlin, including the five Museum Island museums, the German History Museum, the Jewish History Museum, the Gemäldegalerie, and other museums in the Kulturforum area.

Considering admission to each museum on Museum Island costs €10, a Museum Pass makes sense.

The €18 Museum Island Pass saves you money if you tour two or more of the Museum Island museums on one day.

Here are some other tour options in Berlin:

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Berlin Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Berlin!

More Berlin

Even after spending a week in Berlin, I hadn’t seen everything I wanted to. Depending on your interests, you’ll find many more museums, lively nightlife, and interesting neighborhoods to wander through.

Although we stayed in the Kreuzberg area in south Berlin, I recommend the trendier and more interesting Prenzlauer Berg in north Berlin. We enjoyed dining out in this area that features older buildings, lots of cool restaurants, and a youthful, neighborhood vibe.

The author at an outdoor cafe in Berlin
Enjoying lunch at a sidewalk café in hip and happenin’ Prenzlauer Berg

Where to Stay in Berlin

For accommodation suggestions in Berlin, see Where to Stay in Germany: My Best Picks.

Have you been to Berlin? Please share your experiences and tips with other artsy travelers in the Comments section below.

Here are more posts about Germany on Artsy Traveler:

Take a Cooking Class in Paris

Have you considered taking a cooking class while traveling in France? Paris is the place for cooking classes, but you’ll also find classes in other French cities such as Lyon.

Several years ago, guest poster Liz Reding moved with her husband Michael to France and settled in the charming city of Lyon. Every few months, she and Michael take trips to explore different areas in Europe.

Picture of Liz Reding, the guest poster with a meal in Spain
Guest poster Liz Reding enjoying paella in Spain; Photo credit: Liz Reding

One of the things Liz likes to do when she travels around Europe from her new French home is to take cooking classes. 

Here’s what Liz has to say about taking cooking classes in Paris and Lyon.

Cooking in France by Liz Reding

Is cooking art? If you’ve ever seen a great chef at work or eaten a beautifully plated meal, I think you’ll agree that cooking is an art form.

Maybe you love to cook, maybe you don’t … but you have to eat, right? So, doesn’t it make sense to spend time perfecting your cooking skills?

Some might say, YES… but not while I’m on vacation. I say, YES, especially while I’m on vacation! 

The quality of the local produce, cheese, seafood, and meat in French markets is outstanding. When you take a class taught by a local chef at a cooking school, you learn how to use local ingredients to prepare regional favorites.

Cooking Classes in Paris

Thanks to the ongoing popularity of French cuisine and French cooking, several culinary schools offer short-duration classes designed for travelers.

Paris is the undisputed center for cooking classes in France. Consider spending a morning or an evening taking a class. You’ll meet interesting people and learn new skills and cooking methods.

Eiffel Tower in Paris
Eiffel Tower in Paris

Several kinds of cooking classes are available in Paris. In some classes, you focus on how to make specific dishes, such as macarons or baguettes, while in others, you cook several dishes which you then enjoy along with a glass or two of wine.

The Market Class

My favorite type of cooking class is the Market Class

Choose a market class that starts early in the morning and includes lunch or one that starts later in the afternoon and includes dinner.

You’ll start a market class by meeting up with the chef at a local outdoor market. With the help of the chef, you’ll choose whatever is seasonally available and then return to the kitchen to start cooking. 

Several hours later, you’ll sit down to the wonderful three-course lunch or dinner that you and your classmates prepared. A glass or two of wine is often included, along with wine-tasting tips.

In some market classes, the chef decides ahead of time what you’ll make. You pick up the ingredients and then head to the cooking school to start learning and cooking. No surprises! 

Seafood in a Paris market; photo credit: Liz Reding

Other classes take more of a let’s see what we can find approach. You go to the market with the chef and see what’s fresh.

Will it be crayfish or lamb? New asparagus or an oozing camembert? Fresh tomatoes from Provence or foie gras from the Dordogne?

The chef accompanies you around the stalls and helps you make the selections.

Either type of class is a wonderful experience, but the laissez-faire version is more exciting and a test of the chef’s ability to create a yummy menu on the fly. 

If you have a food allergy or other dietary restrictions, let the chef know. He or she will either tell you how to modify the recipe or will provide an alternative.  

Recommendations in Paris & Lyon

I’ve taken four cooking classes in Paris (a baguette-making class and three market classes) as well as in Lyon, France, where I live. All the classes were conducted in English.

In the French baguette class, I learned an important lesson—read the reviews of the cooking class before you sign up! Two of the three ovens weren’t working which made the experience less enjoyable than it could have been.

Fresh baguettes made in the baguette class; Photo credit: Liz Reding

Nevertheless, I did learn how to make baguettes the old-fashioned way by smacking the dough against a granite surface. In my kitchen at home, I was able to adapt the baguette recipe and make it in my mixer with a dough hook. The results were fabulous!

Some of the cooking techniques I learned in cooking classes were fun but not useful. For example, I learned how to strain potatoes through a screen, but why would I want to? 

No matter what type of class you take or where you take it, you’ll always learn new techniques and new recipes. And at the end of the class, you can relax and enjoy the meal you helped make, often with people from around the world.

Paris Cooking Classes

Here are the three cooking schools I attended in Paris. Typically, a cooking class that includes a meal costs between €150 and €200 per person. Some cooking schools offer group rates. If you’re traveling with a group, you may be able to save money by booking a private class.

Cook’n with Class – Market class

La Cuisine – Baguette class

Le Foodist – Market class

Lyon Cooking Class

Plum Lyon – Market class

I highly recommend adding a cooking class to your itinerary.

If you’re really into cooking classes, consider going on a cooking retreat. Plenty of options are available in places such as Tuscany and Provence.

About Liz Reding

Liz Reding is a retired computer textbook author who lives in Lyon, France. Born in Manhattan and having lived in Boston and New Mexico (Santa Fe and Albuquerque), she and her husband are discovering the joys of traveling and exploring the world. She enjoys learning French, cycling, and cooking nutritious meals. 

Conclusion

Have you taken a cooking class while traveling? You can find them all over the world! I took a cooking class in Rome that I write about in Cooking in Roma with InRome Cooking.

Share your experiences in the comments below.

And here’s some more inspiration for cooking classes in Japan, Morocco, and Madrid.

Art Masterpieces in Tuscany You Don’t Want to Miss

Art masterpieces in Tuscany are as thick on the ground as grapes at harvest time. When you visit Tuscany, you’ll enjoy la dolce vita, for sure, but in between sips of some of the world’s best wine, prepare to have your breath taken away by some of the world’s most cherished art.

Let’s face it, Tuscany is the perfect storm for the cultural tourist—stunning scenery, amazing food, tons of history, and world-class art. 

In this post, I present a selection of the art masterpieces to consider including in your Tuscany travels—whether this is your first trip or your tenth (or somewhere in between).

Giant stone sculpture of a bearded man surrounded by trees, featured in an artsy traveler blog post titled “Art in Tuscany: Ten Masterpieces You Don’t Want to Miss.”

Art Masterpieces in Tuscany

You’ll recognize some of the art masterpieces included in this post, but others you may not be familiar with. I include both individual masterworks and art destinations in Tuscany.

A few of my suggested places are a fair way off the beaten path which means they won’t be crowded. 

Organization

I’ve grouped the art masterpieces by location, starting with Florence:

  • Florence
  • Villa Demidoff (Outside Florence)
  • San Gimignano
  • Siena
  • Il Giardino dei Tarocchi near Grosseto

The map of Tuscany below shows the general locations of the masterpieces covered in this post. See individual places for more detailed maps.

My list is in no way exhaustive. Tuscany is chock-a-block with art masterpieces, and to list all of them requires books, not blog posts.

This list is a starting point to help you create your own perfect Tuscany itinerary.

Art Masterpieces in Florence

For many travelers to Tuscany, Florence is their only destination, which is a shame. Florence is worth visiting, and you’ll find plenty to see, but it’s also extremely crowded and lacks the charm of other, smaller Tuscan towns, such as Siena and Lucca.

Florence Cathedral’s iconic dome and bell tower rising above a dense cluster of terracotta rooftops with mountains in the distance.
Duomo in Florence, Italy

That said, if you haven’t been to Florence, then you should include it on your itinerary. Stay at least two nights and preferably three or four.

You won’t run out of art masterpieces to enjoy.

Map of Florence

Florence is a very walkable and compact city. You can easily stroll between each of the Florence sites.

Trip map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

Uffizi

The Uffizi is art masterpiece-central in Tuscany and a must-see during your visit to Florence. But be warned! You really, really need to make reservations for the Uffizi.

Don’t just show up hoping to walk right in. That is, unless you enjoy standing in long lines that move an inch a minute while all the people with pre-purchased tickets whisk by. It’s disheartening.

Here are ticket options for the Uffizi.

I’m including my three favourite must-see masterpieces in the Uffizi, but you’ll find many more.

Take a virtual tour.

The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333)

That’s a mouthful. I just call it Martini’s Annunciation. The subject of the annunciation—when the angel Gabriel flutters to earth and informs Mary she is to be the mother of Christ—was popular in medieval and Renaissance art.

I love this version by Martini and Memmi because of the expression on Mary’s face. She’s like, what? Seriously?

Gothic triptych altarpiece showing the Annunciation, with an angel and Mary flanked by two saints in a gilded, ornate frame.
The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333) [Public domain]

I’m also taken with the gold background and the flatness of the figures.

Annunciation by da Vinci

In later centuries, Annunciations, such as the famous one by Leonardo da Vinci below, look more realistic, but I like the energy and composition of the Martini one the best.

The da Vinci Annunciation is also in the Uffizi. You’ll see it after you view the Martini and Memmi version.

Leonardo da Vinci’s “Annunciation” painting, showing the angel Gabriel greeting the Virgin Mary with a serene garden backdrop.
The Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci: Public Domain

You’ll come across the Martini masterpiece shortly after entering the Uffizi. A lot of people trudge right past it on a beeline for the more famous paintings by Botticelli, da Vinci, et al, but stop in the galleries of 14th-century paintings and spend some time.

You’ll be well rewarded and won’t be jostling for viewing room with thousands of selfie-stick wielders.

Birth of Venus by Botticelli (1485)

You’ve probably seen many reproductions of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. The goddess of beauty and love arrives on the island of Cyprus, born of the sea spray and blown by the winds Zephyr and Aura (seen in the top left corner).

Venus perches on the edge of a giant scallop shell as goddesses are wont to do. She’s just so danged perfect. I mean, look at that hair!

“Birth of Venus” depicting the goddess Venus emerging from a seashell on the sea, with figures blowing wind and a robed woman awaiting her arrival.
Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli: Public Domain

The room containing several paintings by Botticelli is generally crowded, so if possible, visit the Uffizi early or late in the day so you can sit and enjoy his work.

Other Works by Botticelli

In addition to Birth of Venus, you’ll also see Botticelli’s equally famous Primavera along with several more of his paintings exhibited in four consecutive rooms.

And once you’ve finished looking at the real things, you can buy them on just about every knick-knack known to humanity in the many gift shops of Florence. Primavera mouse pad? Sure. Birth of Venus apron? Definitely.

Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi

Hooray for Artemisia Gentileschi, one of the first recognized woman artists of the Baroque period. Several other women artists from the period (and earlier) have gained notice in recent years, but Artemisia is the one most people think of when asked to name a woman artist from back in the day.

She was also the first woman to be admitted to the Academy of Art and Design in Florence.

Artemisia’s painting of Judith beheading poor old Holofernes (hey, he deserved it) is an amazing work. Look at Judith’s muscles as she holds down Holofernes.

This subject was a favorite of the period, and male artists usually depicted Judith as a bit of an ethereal wimp. Not Artemisia. She doesn’t shy away from showing the sheer brute strength that Judith would need to saw the head off a man. She and her maid are working hard!

Dramatic Baroque painting by Artemisia Gentileschi, depicting Judith and her servant beheading Holofernes with expressions of intense determination.
Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi: Public Domain

Davids

That’s Davids plural because in Florence you must see the super-famous David by Michelangelo as well as the not-quite-so-famous-but still-awesome David by Donatello.

Both Davids are art masterpieces that represent the Renaissance in different ways.

Michelangelo’s David

Michelangelo’s David hangs out in the Academia, another place for which you must secure reservations or risk a long line-up.

David stands with magnificent insouciance at the end of a long hallway lined with other works by Michelangelo.

Some of these works are unfinished—human figures emerging half-formed from marble blocks. I like these works almost more than the finished sculptures because they show the process of turning blocks into humans.

Close-up of Michelangelo’s David statue, showing detailed facial features and the muscular hand gripping a stone sling.
Michelangelo’s David in the Academia Gallery in Florence

When you finally work your way up to the front of the line and stand in front of David in all his naked glory, you’ll know what all the fuss is about. He is magnificent.

Although sculpted from marble, the muscles and sinews appear to pulse with life. Every inch of him is perfection—a testament to the beauty and power of the human form.

I remember wandering around the back of him and staring up at a pair of buttocks that any gym rat would kill for. While thinking unholy thoughts, I was joined by a bevy of nuns. They weren’t speaking English, so I couldn’t understand what they were saying, but they were definitely smiling—and, truth be told, giggling.

Well, no wonder.

Donatello’s David

Donatello’s David at the marvelous Bargello Museum (reservations also recommended) might as well be a different species.

Where Michelangelo’s marble-carved David is tall, strong, and, let’s face it, hunky, Donatello’s bronze David is relaxed, laid-back, and kind of pretty.

He wears a hat festooned with flowers and leans on his sword, one hand on his hip. He’s like, come on Goliath, I dare ya to come at me.

Rear view of Donatello's bronze statue of David, showcasing intricate details of David standing over Goliath’s head in a Renaissance museum settin
David by Donatello at the Bargello Museum: Public Domain

Donatello’s David is famous for being the first free-standing bronze sculpture since antiquity.

The Bargello Museum—a former prison—includes many more masterpieces to enjoy, including sculptures by Benvenuto Cellini and works by Michelangelo, including his statue of Bacchus.

Fra Angelico at the Museo di San Marco

I visited the Museo di San Marco on my most recent trip to Florence and was very glad I did. It’s a little off the beaten path which means it’s not crowded—a relief in Florence.

The museum is housed in the former Dominican Monastery (called the Convento di San Marco) where Fra’ Angelico lived as a monk from 1436 to 1455 and painted his stunning frescoes.

Wander down the long corridor flanked on either side by the monk’s cells and stop at each cell to view Fra’ Angelico’s frescoes. I love the way he painted angel wings—very art deco-looking and colorful.

Fresco of the Annunciation by Fra Angelico, depicting the angel Gabriel delivering a message to a kneeling Virgin Mary inside a vaulted room.
Annunciation by Fra Angelico in Cell 3: Public Domain

The museum contains numerous masterpieces by Fra’ Angelico, including the magnificent fresco in the Chapter House and his famous version of the Annunciation located at the top of the stairs leading to the cells. As I mentioned, I’m partial to Annunciations, and Fra’ Angelico’s version is one of the best.

Savonarola: A Burning Tale

You can also peek into the cell once occupied by the infamous Savonarola, who preached vociferously against greed and luxury and denounced clerical corruption, despotic rule, and the exploitation of the poor.

Unfortunately for Savonarola, he went too far with his well-attended but over-the-top spectacles, including his Bonfires of the Vanities, and ended up hanged and burned in 1498.

Oops.

Brancacci Chapel

The attraction at the lovely Brancacci Chapel across the Arno in a quieter and less touristy area of Florence are the gorgeous frescoes by Masaccio and Masolino. The Chapel is located away from the tourist hordes and requires a pleasantly long walk through a Florentine neighborhood in which people actually live.

I stopped for lunch at a café with three tiny tables perched on the edge of the sidewalk and enjoyed being the only tourist in the vicinity.

I was entertained watching a group of well-heeled, impeccably dressed Florentine businessmen lunching nearby. Each man looked like he’d stepped straight out of one of the Renaissance frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel. Substitute business suits for tights and cloaks and not much has changed.

Fresco of biblical figures gathered in a public square, with medieval architecture in the background. The figures are interacting with a beggar on the left and people seated on the right.
The Healing of Tabitha by Masolino at the Brancacci Chapel in Florence: Public Domain

Admission to the Brancacci Chapel is limited so purchase your tickets in advance. Tickets from this site let you skip the line, and provide a video guide.

You’ll be struck by the vivid colors in the Masaccio and Masolino frescoes commissioned in 1424. The Expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise is especially evocative.

Other Suggestions for Florence

Palazzo Davanzati

Tour this medieval palazzo to discover what life was like for wealthy people in the early Renaissance. I had a great visit even though the guided tour was in Italian.

It didn’t matter; I could still get a good idea of how people lived. A highlight is the painted walls in many of the rooms. When I was writing my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, I often envisioned the layout of the rooms in the Palazzo Davanzati as I wrote.

Boboli Gardens

Treat yourself to a refreshing walk through these beautiful gardens with spectacular views over Florence and the Tuscan countryside.

A path in the Boboli Gardens of Florence, lined with lush green hedges and trees, leading up a hill with statues and classical structures dotting the landscape.
The beautifully green Boboli Gardens in Florence

When it’s hot (as it often is in Florence), do yourself a favor and escape the crush of tour groups in the center of the city and take a taxi across the Arno to the Boboli Gardens. Once again, you can skip the line by purchasing your ticket ahead (see options below).

Florence overflows with interesting museums and churches and artwork to keep you busy for days. And don’t forget shopping! Florence is the place in Tuscany to buy leather goods (although they can be cheaper in Siena but without as much choice).

Ticket Options for Florence

Here are ticket options for enjoying the many artsy sights in Florence. Purchase tickets in advance for the Uffizi and the Accademia and consider some of the tours.

Tours in Florence

Here are some Get Your Guide tour options in Florence.

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Villa Demidoff – Outside Florence

In the gardens of the Villa Demidoff in Pratolino, about ten kilometers north of Florence in the beautiful Tuscan countryside, you can visit the aptly named Colossus. A seated figure that appears to be half rock, half man broods on an outcropping above a pond.

I adore this statue! It’s just so darned unexpected. We visited a few years ago on a hot summer’s day and were captivated. The 35-foot tall Colossus is a colossal (ha!) statue created in the late 1500s by the Italian sculptor Giambologna.

The Appennine Colossus, a large stone sculpture of a mythical figure crouching with a flowing beard, surrounded by lush greenery in the gardens of Villa Demidoff in Tuscany.
Colossus at the Villa Demidoff near Florence

Despite his size, Colossus looks quite melancholy, as if he wished he could rise from the rocks keeping him captive and clomp off to a quiet grove where no one would take selfies with him. Inside Colossus are various chambers.

Other Sites in the Gardens

The gardens are home to several more interesting features, including the hexagonal Chapel of Buontalenti, a fantastic dragon sculpture behind Colossus, the Cupid’s grotto, and the fountain of Jupiter. The park is open every weekend from April to October, and admission is free. Before you go, check opening times on the park website.

For a good day out, rent a car and drive north to enjoy the park and the surrounding area, then have dinner in Fiesole while watching the sun set over Florence in the valley below.

You can also take a bus to Pratolino: catch the ATAF bus #25A from Piazza San Marco – the “A” is important. SITA also offers service to Pratolino from the main stop in SMN Piazza Stazione and CAP, with stops on Via Nazionale in Florence.

Art Masterpieces in Siena

Hands down, Siena is my favorite city in Tuscany. I never tire of wandering its narrow streets and then emerging, dazzled by the sun, into the Piazza del Campo—or Il Campo.

Called the most beautiful living room in Italy, Il Campo takes my breath away every time.

Campo in Siena at sunset
The breathtaking Campo in Siena

The first time I went to Siena by myself, I was so overcome with emotion by finally making it to the Campo, where several important scenes in my novel The Towers of Tuscany take place, that I dropped to my knees, lay down on my back, and took a selfie.

A woman lying on a patterned brick surface, smiling at the camera, with sunlight casting shadows on the historic herringbone-patterned pavement.
Relaxing on the 14th-century bricks of the Campo in Siena

Fortunately, no one batted an eye. Several people were doing the same, their backs warmed by bricks laid in the 1330s, not long before the Black Death carried away half of Siena’s population.

Siena is very compact, which is a good thing because the only way to get around is by walking. Fortunately, you can stroll between the two major sites–the cathedral and the palazzo publicco in just a few minutes. Use the map below to orient yourself.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

Piccolomini Library in the Cathedral of Siena

I single out the Piccolomini Library as one of two must-see masterpieces in Siena, but really, the entire cathedral (also known as the Duomo) is worth a half-day of your touring time.

You can skip the line by buying your tickets ahead. Your ticket is also good for the baptistery, crypt, and the Opera museum—all must-sees.

The exterior of the Siena Cathedral with its Gothic facade, intricate carvings, a large rose window, and the towering striped bell tower under a dramatic sky.
Cathedral Square and Duomo in Siena

Cathedral of Siena

A superb example of the Gothic Roman style in Italy, the Cathedral of Siena (the Duomo) is full of treasures. Marvel at the Duomo’s indoor and outdoor alternating stripes in white and greenish-black marble. Black and white are the symbolic colors of Siena.

Unlike the sparse interiors of some cathedrals in Italy, notably the Duomo in Florence, the interior of the Duomo of Siena is fantastically decorated.

A smiling woman standing in front of the Siena Cathedral with its black-and-white striped bell tower, dome, and cityscape of Siena visible in the background.
Overlooking the Duomo in Siena

Look for the statue of St. John the Baptist by Donatello to the right after the Piccolomini Library, the rose window by Duccio di Buoninsegna, and the marble pulpit by Nicola Pisano, along with many gorgeous frescoes.

One of the most beautiful parts of the cathedral is its floor. You can spend hours wandering around the huge mosaics to “read” the stories. The fifty-six etched and inlaid marble panels were designed between 1369 and 1547 by forty leading artists.

Piccolomini Library

And then there’s the Piccolomini Library itself. This place was a surprise to me. I hadn’t heard of it and so was in for a treat when I entered and had the breath knocked out of me (figuratively speaking).

The elaborately decorated ceiling of the Piccolomini Library in the Siena Cathedral, adorned with vibrant frescoes, geometric patterns, and intricate gold detailing.
Ceiling in the Piccolomini Library in the Siena Duomo

The library is dedicated to Enea Silvio Piccolomini, an immensely powerful man in the mid 1400s who was elected Pope Pius II in 1458. The big draw in the library are the frescoes by Pinturicchio.

Each of the ten scenes representing important stages in the life of Pope Pius II is exquisitely painted. The colors, perspective, figures, and backgrounds are incredibly detailed and evocative of their time. I was mesmerized.

Maestà Altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna

While you’re hanging around the Duomo, don’t miss the Opera museum (it’s part of your ticket) so you can admire the Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna that was commissioned by the cathedral in 1311.

I like the altarpiece because it’s gorgeous and because it makes a cameo appearance in my novel, The Towers of Tuscany.

A colorful religious painting depicting the Virgin Mary seated with baby Jesus, surrounded by saints and angels, all framed by intricate golden details and smaller portraits of religious figures.
Central panel of the Maestà, 1308–1311, by Duccio di Buoninsegna. Museo dell’Opera metropolitana del Duomo, Italy

Palazzo Pubblico in Siena

You can’t miss the Palazzo Pubblico in Il Campo. The much-photographed red brick palazzo that looks like a child’s drawing of a castle has become one of the most recognized views in Siena. I’ve taken my share of photos of it and the adjacent Torre Mangia.

The Palazzo Pubblico in Siena, Italy, with its tall Torre del Mangia against a clear blue sky, showcasing medieval architecture with its red brick facade and ornate clock tower.
Palazzo Pubblico in Siena

The Palazzo Pubblico dates from the early 14th century and played an important role in ensuring Siena enjoyed relative peace from the late 13th century to 1355.

While you tour the Museo Civico, read about the “Government of the Nine”, the system of government that consisted of nine representatives of the people elected from the middle class and not from the noble families. This relatively democratic form of government was responsible for commissioning many civic works of art in the first half of the 14th century.

Museo Civico – Torre Mangia

The Museo Civico is located on the first floor of the Palazzo Pubblico, which still functions as Siena’s city hall.

Enter the courtyard called the Cortile del Podestà to access the Museo Civico and, if you’re feeling energetic, climb the 400 steps to the top of the Torre Mangia.

The view is spectacular, but the narrow staircase is claustrophobic and, in the summer, very hot. I’ve climbed the Torre Mangia once and do not feel the need to do so again.

Frescoes in Sala del Mappamondo

There are plenty of interesting things to look at in the Museo Civico, but the big draw are the frescoes by Simone Martini and Ambrogio Lorenzetti.

The two large frescoes by Simone Martini are located in the massive hall called Sala del Mappamondo. You can’t miss it. To your left as you enter the hall is the Maestà by Simone Martini. The gorgeous fresco shows the Madonna seated on a throne with the Child and surrounded by angels and saints. Note all the haloes!

A large fresco painting featuring the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus, seated on a throne and surrounded by saints, angels, and other religious figures in a richly decorated frame.
Maestà by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain

Turn around and at the other end of the hall you’ll see the fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano, a general on his horse with the castles he just conquered in the distance. You’ll see reproductions of this piece throughout Siena.

I love how Guidoriccio and his horse are wearing the same ensemble. Very stylish.

 A medieval fresco showing a knight on horseback in elaborate armor, set against a backdrop of rolling hills, castles, and a fortified city.
Fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain

Frescoes in the Sala dei Nove

Now walk into the Sala dei Nove—the Hall of the Nine—to see Siena’s most famous masterpiece: the fresco cycle called Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti.

You’ll get a sore neck looking up at the three wall-size frescoes, famous because they’re interesting to look at and because they depict secular subjects instead of religious ones—a rarity at the time (1340s).

I love the girls dancing in the Good Government fresco (pictured below). Take a seat and enjoy gazing up at the frescoes. Whenever I’ve been to the Sala dei Novel, I’ve been pretty much alone.

Although famous, these frescoes aren’t that famous which means you’re likely able to enjoy them crowd-free.

A medieval fresco by Ambrogio Lorenzetti depicting a bustling city scene with buildings, people, horses, and vibrant daily life.
Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Pubblico, Siena: Public Domain

Other Suggestions for Siena

Siena is worth at least two days of your time, although people often squeeze it in as an afternoon trip from Florence. Please don’t do that!

Compared to overcrowded Florence, Siena is a medieval treat. Make room in your itinerary for a proper visit so you have ample time to get to know this delightful city. You won’t find many big-ticket sites, but that’s not the point of Siena.

Here are ticket options in Siena:

And when you’re not enjoying the art, spend time wandering the back streets. Enjoy a cappuccino in one of the cafés overlooking the Campo and buy yourself a leather purse or two. They are far more reasonably priced here than in Florence. My collection is growing!

A display of colorful leather purses hanging vertically, in red, pink, yellow, and brown, with detailed stitching and silver buckles.
Selection of leather purses in Siena
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Art Masterpieces in San Gimignano

San Gimignano is overrun with tourists and crammed with tacky tourist shops. And yet I love it!

Every time we visit Tuscany, we stay for a few days in the vicinity of San Gimignano. We usually spend the day either touring around the countryside or staying put in our hotel to write (me) and draw (Gregg).

The skyline of San Gimignano, with multiple medieval stone towers and bell towers rising above the terracotta rooftops, framed by trees and a clear blue sky.
San Gimignano

Then, towards the end of the afternoon when the parking lots surrounding Gimignano start to empty, we venture forth.

By 4 or 5 pm, the tour busses have lumbered off, the merchants are standing outside their shops taking a much-needed break, the hot streets are shaded by the towers, and the whole town seems to exhale with relief.

Stroll virtually deserted side streets in search of art and food (in that order). For a small hill town, San Gimignano punches above its weight in excellent restaurants.

You’ll see a lot of art in San Gimignano, but don’t miss these two sites which fortunately are close to each other:

Palazzo Comunale in the Civic Museum

Located next to the Duomo, the Civic Museum also includes the Torre Grossa—the tallest of San Gimignano’s seventeen towers and the only one you can climb.

I have climbed it, and it’s worth doing, but the real draw are the frescoes in the chamber of the Podestà in the Palazzo Comunale (which also has other good art to enjoy).

A panoramic view of San Gimignano’s historic skyline, with its famous stone towers rising above the red-tiled rooftops, surrounded by green countryside.
View from the top of the Torre Grossa in San Gimignano

Snares of Love

The series of frescoes is called the “snares of love”, painted by Memmo di Filippucio between 1303 to 1310.

Scenes show both profane love and scenes from marriage. I love the secular nature of these frescoes, especially the one where the young married couple share a bathtub.

A medieval fresco depicting two people sitting in a large wooden tub, one with a head covering, set against a background of rich red and gold fabric.
One of the frescoes in the Palazzo Comunale Civic Museum in San Gimignano

Frescoes in the Duomo of San Gimignano

The Duomo also contains an amazing number and variety of frescoes. Every wall on both sides of the nave is filled with frescoes, most dating from the 1300s.

The vivid colors are original; the frescoes have never required restoration.

A medieval fresco showing a lavish feast with two crowned figures at a banquet table, surrounded by servants, musicians, and a depiction of a heavenly figure above.
Fresco in the Duomo at San Gimignano by Bartolo di Fredi [CC BY-SA]

Get the audio guide and walk slowly around the frescoes, picking out scene after scene from the Old and New Testaments. Even if you’re not into Bible stories, you can’t help but be entranced by these frescoes. I enjoy studying the clothing and the facial expressions for inspiration.

Pick up a ticket to the Museum of Sacred Art in the Duomo that includes an audio guide from this link.

Other Suggestions for San Gimignano

Climb to the top of the ruined Fortezza (fortress) at the highest point in San Gimignano to enjoy spectacular views over the countryside.

Even when the main street is heaving with sweaty tourists, the Fortezza is usually virtually empty.

A woman in sunglasses smiles while standing atop a stone fortress, with the medieval towers of San Gimignano and lush rolling hills in the background.
Overlooking the towers of San Gimignano

San Gimignano 1300

One of my favorite museums in San Gimignano is San Gimignano 1300, located in a side street close to the Piazzale Comunale.

Here you’ll view a scale model of San Gimignano as it appeared in 1300.

A detailed miniature model showcasing the medieval town of San Gimignano, with tall stone towers and terracotta-roofed buildings closely packed together.

Grosseto – Il Giardino dei Tarocchi

I haven’t been to Grosseto, which I’m sure is a lovely town, but I list it as the closest place to The Tarot Garden (Il Giardino dei Tarocchi).

Here is where you’ll see a stunning collection of whimsical sculptures by modern artist Niki Saint Phalle. The sculptures are based on the Tarot cards and are a must-see if you’re looking for something far off the beaten path.

And the sculptures are a nice break from the medieval and Renaissance masterpieces that make up most of the art in Tuscany.

A colorful mosaic sculpture in The Tarot Garden featuring a large sun-faced figure with outstretched arms, adorned with bright patterns of blue, red, and yellow. The figure stands over a stairway, with green foliage and another whimsical sculpture in the background, all under a clear blue sky.
Sculpture in The Tarot Garden
Modern art sculpture in the Tarot Garden near Grossetto in Tuscany
Sculpture in the Tarot Garden

We spent a full hour wandering around the gardens on a hot afternoon in September. Although I took tons of photographs, they don’t do the sculptures justice. You have to visit the gardens and touch the sculptures, walk inside them, and sit on them to fully appreciate them.

When you go, check the website for the current opening hours. Usually, the gardens are open daily from April 1 to October 15 from 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm. In the winter, the gardens are open only on the first Saturday of the month from 9 am to 1 pm.

Summary

My list of must-see art masterpieces barely scratches the surface of all the wonderful art you can enjoy when you slow down and take time to get to know Tuscany in all its glory.

Plan to spend two weeks enjoying the many beautiful towns and villages: Montalcino, Montepulciano, Lucca, Pisa, Volterra…the list goes on. Take a walking holiday or book into an agritourism property and settle in for a week of great food and long, warm days.

For more information about traveling in Tuscany see Exploring Tuscany, Umbria and La Dolce Vita and Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Ciao!