England is so full of artsy sites and experiences that you’d need a lifetime to explore them all!
Visit the many sites dedicated to great writers such as Shakespeare, Jane Austen, and Wordsworth; tour fabulous stately homes steeped in history; visit some of the world’s loveliest gardens, and of course check out world-class theater in London.
And that’s just scratching the surface of all that England has to offer. This page provides a short introduction to one of my favorite countries.
See a performance at the Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC) in Stratford-upon-Avon
Visit Durham Cathedral in northern England, still my favorite cathedral ever
Stay in the heart of London and see a musical at a west end theater
My Relationship to England
England has played a major role in my life since I first visited in 1970 on my epic European trip with my mom.
Four years later, at the age of eighteen, I returned to England with two friends and circumnavigated it by train–traveling from London up the east coast to Scotland and down the west coast to Wales and all the way to Land’s End in Cornwall.
We stayed in youth hostels and cheap B&Bs and had a marvelous time!
On Dover Hill in the Cotswolds
My love affair with England was only beginning. I stayed in England for four years–earning my B.A. in English Literature from Reading University and then completing an education certification at Durham University. During those years and on subsequent trips, I saw a great deal of England.
In recent years, I’ve returned several times to England and always find new things to see and to write about.
Favorite Places in England
The map below pinpoints my top ten favorite places in England.
If you’re planning a trip to England, consider including these places in your itinerary. I suggest focusing on the south and southwest in Dorset, Devon, and Cornwall, then visiting Oxford, Stratford-upon-Avon and the Cotswolds before heading north to spend time in York, Durham, and the Lake District (Keswick makes a good home base).
This map was made with Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android
Practical Tips for Travel in England
Here’s where I cover some of the basics of visiting England–when to visit, checking events, transportation, accommodations, and food.
When to Visit England
English weather does not have a great reputation. For much of the year, it’s rainy, grey, and kind of chilly. But even on the wettest days, I’ve discovered that England’s weather can surprise and delight.
Many times I’ve set off in the rain in the morning and spent the afternoon in glorious sunshine (and vice versa). Take an umbrella and dress in layers and England’s weather shouldn’t slow you down.
That said, the best times to visit England are in the late spring, summer and early fall. Darkness falls quite early in the winter and often attractions are closed or have limited hours.
Lately, summers have been uncharacteristically hot which is a problem because most places in England are not air conditioned.
Check Events and Exhibitions
Before you visit England, check online for exhibitions and performances. Also be on the lookout for local festivals.
You’ll definitely want to check what’s playing in the West End while you’re in London. Find listings on websites such as London Theatre Direct and London Theatre, and then book directly with the theatre.
A revival of My Fair Lady in London was first-rate
I almost always get better seats at more reasonable prices when I book with the theatre than if I go through one of the big resellers. But checking the big websites is the best way to figure out what you want to see.
On one of my recent trips to England, I saw four performances in three days: My Fair Lady, Six: The Musical, and Jersey Boys in London, and Richard III performed by the Royal Shakespeare Company in Stratford-upon-Avon. Each performance was first-rate and worth every penny.
And speaking of money, theatre performances in London are remarkably reasonable compared to their counterparts in New York. I paid on average about £50 to £80 for excellent seats at each performance. If you want to be “up in the clouds,” you will pay a lot less.
And while you’re in London, visit Shakespeare’s Globe. If you can’t get tickets for a performance (recommended), at least take one of the guided tours of the theater. I’ve taken them twice and learned a lot!
England is not a large country and it’s easy to travel around by public transit, although not quite as easy as it was back in 1974! Many train routes have been closed over the years, particularly those in rural areas. But getting from city to city by train is still fast, efficient, and relatively inexpensive.
Take the Train!
If you’re 60 or older, consider purchasing a Senior Railcard. You get a considerable discount on train journeys; the cost of the railcard easily pays for itself with just a few trips. Check the UK Railcard website for information about the senior and other cards.
Driving in England? Maybe not.
When I lived in England back in the 1970s, I drove everywhere and was perfectly fine. However, first, I was young and intrepid, and second, the traffic was a LOT less insane back then.
I really don’t recommend driving in England. There are just too many cars on the road; the number and complexity of routes and roads are mind-boggling, and let’s face it, if you’re a North American, driving on the left is challenging, to say the least.
Now, if you’re visiting Scotland or Ireland, then I say go for it. Driving in those countries (with the exception of Dublin–don’t even think about it) is a pleasure.
A good strategy when visiting England is to fly to London, enjoy one of the world’s great cities for at least three days (and preferably more), and then take the train west to Oxford, Stratford-upon-Avon, and Bath, and north to York, Durham, and the Lake District.
Trains in the UK are generally efficient and relatively inexpensive
In London, take cabs, Ubers, the Underground, or busses!
Small Group Tours
Consider home basing in cities such as Bath and York, and then taking small group tours to explore the countryside.
I took a small group tour of the Cotswolds from Stratford-upon-Avon and had a lovely, relaxing day. If I’d tried to explore the area on my own by car, I don’t think I’d have seen half as much, and certainly my blood pressure would have suffered. Here’s Go Cotswolds tour to consider:
England is a safe country to travel in. I’ve traveled solo several times in England and never worried. Just use common sense, and if you feel worried, take an Uber. They are all over the UK!
Staying in England
England, and London in particular, is not an inexpensive place to travel. However, you do get good value for your money, in my experience.
Expect to pay £250-300 or more for a centrally located, good-quality hotel room in London. I suggest you resist the temptation to choose cheap accommodation outside the city center. You’ll waste time and money traveling into London, and probably see more of the Underground than is conducive to interesting travel.
London
Here are good bets in central London:
Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden could not be more central–five minutes from Trafalgar Square, five minutes from the theaters (and some were just across the street), five minutes from Covent Garden, and short bus rides from just about everything you’d want to see in London.
The Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel is well-located just across the street from Victoria Station and excellent deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.
The Cavendish near Green Park is in a posh area and close to just about everything.
The ParkCity in Kensington is convenient to London’s awesome museums.
Click on the map below to find more hotels in London.
In the rest of England, I tend to favor small hotels or B & B’s. Here are some places I’ve stayed in and recommend:
Pen and Parchment in Stratford-upon-Avon: Close to the RSC, comfortable rooms, great food in the pub
Malmaison in Reading: Stylish and very close to the station in the center of Reading
Cotswold Lodge Hotel in Oxford: Country hotel, fairly central, and with good dining rom
Jorvik House in York: on a quiet street in an interesting old building
The Lerryn in Falmouth in Cornwall: Room with a view and a wonderful breakfast
Eating in England
Two words describe food in England–surprisingly excellent.
How times have changed! For decades, England was maligned for its tasteless, overcooked food. Now, great restaurants are everywhere, featuring food from all over the world.
You won’t go hungry in England anymore.
One of my favorite meals was an upscale version of the old ploughman’s lunch that I used to love when I lived in England in the 1970s. The one I ordered in York was beyond amazing! A pork pie, thick slices of ham, apples, hard-boiled eggs, crusty white bread, salad, pickles galore, fresh Yorkshire butter (and lots of it) and two very hefty slabs of cheese. I was in heaven!
You can also choose from a wide range of world cuisines pretty much anywhere in England. When I was in York, I opted one evening for a curry. The highly-rated Taas restaurant close to the Botham Gate leading into the old city of York served up a delicious Nepalese meal. A good choice!
Charcuterie and local cheeses at a pub in Yorkshire
Conclusion
Have you traveled to England? Share your experiences and recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Here are three posts to read next to help you plan your England trip:
Take a private guided tour to Mycenae, Corinth and Epidaurus
Stay at 99 Dream Vacations, a reasonably-priced apartment in the center of old Nafplio
Overview of Nafplio
Compared to Santorini, Nafplio feels deserted. One reason is that the large cruise ships don’t come here. As a result, most visitors either pop in for a quick visit on a tour from Athens, or stay a night or two. Many use the town as a home base to explore nearby ancient sites.
In this post, I share my suggestions for things to do in Nafplio and how to allocate your time. I suggest spending three nights and two days, with one day devoted to a tour of Mycenae, Corinth, and Epidaurus.
History of Napflio
Nafplio, also known as Nafplion and Nafplia, was the first capital of Greece from 1828 to 1834 following the Greek War of Independence.
The history of Nafplio is fascinating. Back in the 15th century, Venice conquered the region and left behind three formidable fortresses—one high atop an imposing cliff that looms over the town, one on a peninsula not visible from the town, and one out in the harbor.
Floodlit at night, the two fortresses visible from the seafront add a romantic touch to this elegant little town.
Getting to Nafplio
After a three-hour ferry ride from Naxos to Piraeus (check out my post about our three nights on beautiful Naxos), we take a private transfer to the charming city of Nafplio, a two-hour drive on a mostly empty highway.
The cost of the private transfer is about $250 and while not inexpensive, it was a much more convenient way to get to Nafplio from Piraeus. The alternative would taking a taxi into Athens and then catching a bus to Nafplio or renting a car.
When you are on a fairly tight itinerary, spending extra to save time makes good sense.
You could visit Nafplio on a day trip from Athens, but don’t! As mentioned above, Nafplio is worth at least two nights and preferably three or four.
Arrival in Nafplio
The driver drops us off in the little square in the middle of Nafplio old town a few meters above our place and points down a narrow alleyway.
Your apartment is down there.
Okay…
We trundle down the narrow street to another narrow street flanked with souvenir stores and look around hopefully. Julia spies the name of the apartment high up on a wall: 99 Dream Vacations. Now all we need to do is get in.
Staying in Nafplio
I text our host and, to my relief, she rounds the corner into our street minutes later and lets us into a beautiful apartment complete with high wood-beamed ceilings, a comfortable living room and two bedrooms.
The kitchen is stocked with provisions for breakfast—tubs of creamy Greek yogurt, along with eggs, fruit, bread, and enough coffee pods to keep me well caffeinated for the entire stay.
I highly recommend 99 Dream Vacations if you’re looking for a centrally located and reasonably-priced apartment. Here are photos of the living room and adjacent dining room.
Getting to Know Nafplio
On our first evening, we stroll around the cute streets of the old town of Nafplio, all brightly lit until late in the evening, and share a very tasty pizza at a café overlooking the Bourtzi fortress in the harbor. The fortress is one of three built by the Venetians.
As usual, the service is efficient and friendly. During our entire 16-day trip in Greece, we never once experienced poor service.
After dinner, we treat ourselves to an Italian gelato at a gelateria reputed to serve the best gelato in Greece. The server greets us in Italian, and the gelato is indeed excellent. Several hundred years of Venetian occupation have left their mark on Nafplio.
Day 1 in Nafplio – Exploring the Town
Our first full day is a semi-down day with very little planned beyond taking a cooking class at 5 pm. Nafplio is a charming and walkable town, but it’s fairly low on sights.
I recommend checking out the Archeological Museum and the Venetian Fortress of Palamidi (also known as Palamidi Castle) perched high above the town, and then spending the rest of the day relaxing, shopping, eating, and strolling (not necessarily in that order).
Archeological Museum of Nafplio
After breakfast at an outdoor cafe in Nafplio’s old town, we head to the Archeological Museum to learn all about the early inhabitants of the area—some dating back 30,000 years. This is a very old part of the world!
The Archeological Museum in Nafplio is well organized and compact and definitely worth a visit if you are interested in ancient history (and hey, you’re in Greece!).
The permanent collection includes artifacts dating from the Paleolithic period to Roman times. The most important exhibits are associated with the Mycenaean centers of the region.
All the exhibits include informative English captions. I particularly like the collections of pots, including a well-preserved Octopus pot.
A highlight of the museum is a suit of bronze armor that was found in a chamber tomb dating fthe 15th century BC. Check out the boar tooth helmet. Imagine how many boars gave their lives to make that helmet.
I also snap a picture of three reconstructed theatrical masks. As a former theater major (back in the day, I got my Master’s in theatre from the University of Toronto), I have a soft spot for Greek theater and am looking forward to our visit to the ancient Greek theater at Epidaurus.
Tourist Train in Nafplio
With the clouds threatening rain, we set off after our visit to the museum to find the hop- on-hop-off tour bus that will, according to the guidebook, take us up to the fort.
We could climb the 999 steps from the town to the top, but we won’t.
Fortress of Palamidi seen from Nafplion
At the bus stop, we discover a little tourist train next to a sign advertising a 20-minute meander around the town. With 30 minutes to spare before the hop-on-hop-off bus arrives, we decide to give the tourist train a whirl.
Feeling like toddlers on a day trip, we clamber into the train which sets off at a painfully sedate pace. My great-grandma could walk faster.
The English commentary is not particularly compelling and the only charming streets we putter down are ones we’ve already walked along.
Tourist train in Nafplion
At one point, we squeeze past the café where we had breakfast. We want to sink through the floor as the server catches our eye and kind of smirks as if to say, Really? You fell for the tourist train tour? Don’t you know it sucks?
She is right. For the next twenty minutes, we chug along, often stuck for several minutes in traffic with nothing to see either side but graffiti-scrawled walls and kids playing volleyball at the local high school.
The train circles through the modern part of the town which doesn’t have much to recommend it, with some vistas appallingly ugly.
Not all of Nafplio is charming
Finally, excruciatingly, we arrive back at the parking area only to discover that the bus has already left. So much for that plan! But no matter; the skies have been steadily darkening and we feel a few raindrops.
Rather than go up to the fort where the main attraction is views of the sea, we decide to head back to our lovely two-bedroom apartment for some R & R.
I write for a while, nap for a while, and around three o’clock, the skies clear and we venture out again.
Fortress of Palamidi
We have two hours before we need to be at our cooking class, so we catch a taxi up to the fort. The driver says he’ll return for us in one hour and that we can pay him then.
I’d read that the taxi ride from the town to the fortress should cost about 10 euros so I figure that I may as well give him my 20 euros for a round trip rather than take my chances that a taxi will be available when we emerge from the fort.
We wave a cheery good-bye to the driver and set off to explore the Venetian fort. There’s not much left of the fort itself, but the views are jaw-droppingly stunning.
We clamber and climb over the remains of the ancient fortifications, snapping picture after picture of views Nafplio that go on forever. It’s a wonderful place to visit—a Nafplio must-see for sure.
After much climbing and snapping photos of views of Nafplio, we enjoy a drink at the tiny concession inside the Palamidi Fortress.
We exit the fort precisely one hour after we arrived and find our driver waiting.
After a few wrong turns, he drops us off at Savor Nafplio Cooking School a few minutes before 5 pm. He also charges us 40 euros for a round trip that should have cost 20 euros. But what to do? I hand over the cash and chalk it up to one of the few times we are ripped off in Greece.
The cooking class is a must-do! See my post all about it.
Day 2 in Nafplio – Tour of Ancient Sites
We’re up early on our second full day in Nafplio to take a guided tour of the major archeological sites in the area: Mycenae, Corinth and Epidaurus.
I’ve read about these places for decades and seen pictures, so I’m beyond excited to finally see them in real life, especially the ancient theater of Epidaurus.
If you have a car, you can take day trips from Nafplio to visit the ancient sites. We did all three in one day, which felt very doable.
A few minutes before 9 am, we walk into the small square near our apartment and meet our driver, George. To our delight, we’re in a small van rather than a bus and traveling with just two other people—a honeymooning couple from New York.
George inches the van down a very narrow street lined with stone houses on one side and restaurant tables and chairs on the other. He makes it to the end of the road unscathed and then negotiates several tiny maneuvers to coax the van around a very tight corner hemmed in on two sides by parked cars that he passes with centimeters to spare.
It’s an impressive display of driving skill, and I feel we are in good hands.
George sets off towards the ancient city of Mycenae. He is very enthusiastic about the Mycenaeans, a still-mysterious culture that thrived around 3000 to 1700 BC, after the Minoans, but well before the Athenians (500 to 300 BC).
Mycenae
Around 1600 to 1200 BC, the city of Mycenae ruled its mighty empire from atop a hill now littered with evocative ruins and some truly marvelous tombs. Historians don’t know all that much about the Mycenaeans—who they were, where they came from, and what happened to them.
We do know that around 1200 BC, the Mycenaeans defeated Troy and became the rulers of the Aegean before mysteriously disappearing from the ancient map.
Tomb of Agamemnon
Our first stop is known colloquially as the Tomb of Agamemnon. It is very likely not Agamemnon’s tomb, but calling it the Tomb of Agamemnon is better than calling it the Tomb of Some Bronze Age Dude We Don’t Know.
Its other name is the Treasury of Atreus, which isn’t nearly as romantic nor as descriptive since the site is, definitely, a tomb. Or was.
We are the only people at the site until the honeymooners catch up with us, and I am thoroughly verklempt. Here’s the entrance to what is called a beehive tomb.
The interior of the tomb is massive, its high stone ceiling a testament to Bronze Age architectural know-how. The walls of horizontal stone blocks rise up and up to a height of more than 13 meters, decreasing in diameter the higher they go until the dome is closed.
I breathe in the smell of ancient stone and let my imagination soar to the height of the tomb. This place is almost 4000 years old. It was already ancient history when Plato walked the earth.
Try to arrive as early as possible, preferably just after the site opens to avoid the crowds. I am so grateful I was able to see the tomb on my own rather than with five dozen people all crammed together and simultaneously snapping photos. Talk about an imagination killer.
The honeymooning couple take our picture all alone in front of the tomb. Very soon, taking this same shot with no one else in it would be impossible.
In the five minutes it takes for George to drive from this site to the main site of the Mycenae Acropolis, five tour buses have pulled in. The early visitor definitely gets the best shots.
Palace of Mycenae
The sparse ruins of the palace high on a hill overlooking a spectacular view are pretty much all that’s left of a great and powerful empire. But one element is a show-stopper—and that’s the famous Lion’s Gate that dates from around 1300 BC.
I remember seeing pictures of it back when I first studied art history. It was touted as an incredible engineering achievement, considering its age. In fact, the relief of the lions is the oldest monumental relief in Europe.
The stone lintel upon which the carving of two headless lions sits weighs over 18 tons.
The Lion’s Gate at Mycenae
Awestruck, I pass through the gate and then start the climb to the top of the site. Those ancient Mycenaeans must have been in great shape. The climb is steep but worth the effort.
At the top, I take this panoramic video that shows the beauty of the surrounding countryside.
I’m captivated by an area of the ruined palace called the Artisan Quarter. This was once an extensive building complex that consisted of two stories (although only the foundations survive). Based on finds such as ivory objects, gold leaf, and remnants of semi-precious stones, archaeologists believe the buildings must have contained artists’ workshops.
Hmm, a novel about a Mycenaean jewelry maker? Maybe he’s kidnapped by the Sea People (Sardinian pirates, some think) who allegedly are responsible for conquering and destroying Mycenae? Maybe he’d taken on board a ship and rowed to Sardinia?
Contemplating the glimmerings of a plot keep me entertained when we’re back on the road driving to our next stop.
Archeological Museum at Mycenae
As with every ancient site I visited in Greece, Mycenae includes a small archaeological museum. I am particularly taken by the extensive collection of carved figurines and an intriguing ceramic snake.
Ancient Corinth
Our next step is the ancient city of Corinth. In around 400 BC during Greece’s Golden Age, the city was one of the country’s largest and most important cities, with a population of 90,000. And then the Romans swept in during 146 BC, demolished the city as they were often wont to do, and built a new city in its place in 44 BC.
As a result, most of the ruins and the artifacts in the museum are Roman, not Greek.
Nevertheless, the site is pretty darned evocative. With the sky studded with interesting clouds, I snap some good photos of the remains of a Doric temple.
Corinth is famous with Christians because of the two letters that Paul wrote in the New Testament. Several tours led by Christian clerics were prowling the site while we were there, some even gathered in circles and singing and/or praying.
The ruins are quite extensive and worth visiting. The museum also merits a look. It contains a courtyard full of Roman statues along with other artifacts, including this well-preserved mosaic.
After wandering around the ruins for a while and visiting the museum, we enjoyed a tasty and reasonably-priced traditional Greek lunch at a small nearby piazza ringed with restaurants and souvenir shops.
Corinth Canal
Nowadays, most cruise ships and freighters can’t squeeze through the Corinth Canal, but it’s still a marvel of engineering. From a vantage point on a bridge high above the canal, it’s hard to believe the canal is 24.6 meters wide and 6.4 kilometers long. From the bridge, the canal looks a lot narrower and shorter.
As far back as the 7th century BC, engineers dreamed of building a canal to connect the Gulf of Corinth in the Ionian Sea with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea. Even Nero had a go. He actually broke the ground with a pickaxe and removed the first basket load of soil in 67 AD.
But then he died and the project was abandoned. It wasn’t until 1893 that the canal was finally built.
The Theater at Epidaurus
For me, the ancient theater at Epidaurus (a UNESCO World Heritage site and rightly so) is the highlight of the day. I’ve read about it and seen pictures, but nothing prepared me for its sheer size and grandeur.
Regarded as the best-preserved ancient theater in Greece, the theater was constructed in the late 4th century BC and is still used for performances.
Our guide, George, tells us that he saw a performance of Oedipus Rex in the theater when he was five and cried loudly when Oedipus died, thinking it was all real. He still comes to performances and brings his own children, assuring them it’s all make-believe.
Arrival at the Theater
The pathway from the entrance to the theater ends at the stage with the rows and rows of seats fanning upwards in a half-shell.
From the stage, the theater doesn’t look that big and I’m just a tad disappointed.
Climbing up the Theater
But then I start to climb—up, up, up with my heart pumping and my sore knees screaming. I count each step, pausing occasionally to catch my breath and note how much farther I have to go (far!).
Finally, I make it to the top and look down. A wave of vertigo makes me clutch the nearest railing. Yikes, I’m high.
The magnificent theater spreads out before me, perfectly engineered and harmoniously constructed. It’s like a poem in stone.
Waaaaay down on the stage, I hear people testing the famous acoustics that allegedly allow all 15,000 spectators to hear a pin drop.
I recommend you make the trek up the stairs to the top of theater if at all possible. You really can’t appreciate the breadth of this marvel until you see the whole theater spread before you with the hills and sky beyond.
Around the Theater
The theater is situated near the ancient sanctuary of Asklepios, which was a celebrated healing center in ancient times and dedicated to Asklepios, the god of healing.
After visiting the theater, we wander through the extensive archaeological site dotted with columns and various and sundry ruins.
It’s an extremely pleasant place in which to imagine ancient people streaming along the walkways to see a performance by that new guy, Euripedes.
Back to Nafplio
It’s been a good, long day of sightseeing. Just as we pull away from the site, the heavens open. George slogs valiantly through a violent rainstorm, but fortunately, before we have time to worry about flooding, the sun bursts out and all is well with the world for the rest of the trip back.
We spend our last evening cruising around the picturesque streets, enjoying yet another tasty Greek meal (they’re all tasty), soaking up the atmosphere in lovely Syntagma Square, and picking up a few souvenirs.
Here’s the main plaza at night.
Tours Around Nafplio
GetYourGuide offers tours of the ancient sites on the Peloponnese Peninsular that are easily accessible from Nafplio. Many more tours depart from Athens, but then you’re faced with a much longer drive each way and may not find as many small group tours.
Here’s an option for a private guided tour to the archaeological sites:
If possible, see the ancient wonders of Mycenae, Corinth and Epidaurus from your home base of Nafplio. You’ll have more time to tour the archaeological sites as well as spend some quality time in Nafplio.
Win-win.
Conclusion
Have you visited Nafplio? Share your suggestions for artsy travelers in the Comments below.
Author Zoe Disigny (The Art of Traveling Strangers) has made her dream of owning a house in France come true! Read about her experience in this guest post for Artsy Traveler.
Vive la Différence
We bought a house in France! I know, I can’t believe it either!
I’ve fantasized about living in France since my first high school French class, and now, over fifty years later, that dream has come true four months out of the year. And although I’m new to this, I’d like to share some preliminary observations about living in rural Southern France versus urban Southern California.
A road outside my home in Southern California vs a road outside my home in Southern France
History is Everywhere
The first thing I always notice about France is the palpable presence of history, and my little village is no different. I’m drawn to the textures of the old buildings, with their peeling layers of plaster, red tile roofs, and decorative eaves looking like the pinched edges of pie crusts.
And I love how the village houses still cluster around medieval churches. In Southern California, the buildings would be sleek condos surrounding a shopping center.
Views of our village in the south of France
For Whom the Bell Tolls
A sturdy bell tower crowns the 12th-century church in the center of our village. Its ancient bell tolls daily at seven in the morning, noon, and seven at night, calling the faithful to pray the Angelus—a prayer dating back to the 11th century. The clanging bell is far from melodious, but it fills me with inexplicable joy.
Nothing in Southern California compares.
Beautiful Details
It’s not just the weathered façades of old French homes that reel me in but also their traditional wooden shutters with black iron hardware. The iron fasteners that hold our window shutters open take the shape of tiny female busts and are called arrêts bergère (shepherdess stops). I love their hats and how proper these ladies look. They clearly take their job seriously!
Against the stone façade of our house, our door shutters with their multiple iron bars remind me of a medieval fortress. And the six-step process to close and latch them each night feels just as archaic—an inefficiency that would not go over well in the U.S. but appeals to my romantic soul.
I’m also charmed by the delicate lace curtains placed flat against the inside of the windows. They soften the darkness of the closed shutters and filter the light when the shutters are open—an old-fashioned window treatment that would look entirely out of place in my home in California.
Navigating French Bureaucracy
The English word bureaucracy comes from the French word bureaucratie coined in the 18th century to describe a cumbersome government of multiple bureaus or offices. It’s fitting that the French invented this word because France is notorious for it.
Case in point: Our cash offer for our French house was accepted on May 16, 2022. Even though there were no contingencies, the sale was not approved until Aug. 30—three and a half months later!
In California, if all goes well, cash buyers can close a sale in as little as seven days.
Getting from Here to There
Driving in France (not Paris) is a pleasure, as long as you’re good at navigating endless rond points (roundabouts) and realize you won’t get stopped for speeding. Instead, if you’re caught on a speed camera, you’ll get a ticket in the mail. Surprise!
Of course, there’s often no need to drive because the trains go everywhere and are comfortable, clean, and inexpensive for short hops. It only takes twelve minutes and costs three euros for us to train to Narbonne (fourteen miles away on the Mediterranean).
And one of the best things about traveling around France . . . no billboards!
A highway in France
The Pause that Refreshes
In my part of France, most stores (except grocery stores) close from noon to 2 (unless it’s Sunday when nothing is open—again, except grocery stores, but they’re only available until noon). Got it?
Our home improvement store, Bricomarche, is very strict about its midday closure. As the noon witching hour approaches, staff members circulate the store, barring customers from selecting more items and shooing us toward the checkout counter.
Stop a client from buying? That would never happen in the U.S.
As the stores shut down for lunch, the restaurants open—but only from noon to 2 (or sometimes 1:30). If you miss that window, they don’t open again until 5 (at the earliest).
Dining in France
The tradeoff for this narrow timeframe is the delicious, artfully presented food! Other compensations include no loud music or distracting TVs (making mealtime more favorable for conversation, savoring, and digestion).
Tipping is strictly voluntary. With a government-required service charge added to the bill, a 5-10% tip is generous.
Artfully presented and delicious food in France
Another dining difference in France—the pace of the meal. Not only does it usually take a little longer to get your food, but it takes a lot longer to get your bill. This is not great if you’re in a hurry, but at least they won’t whisk your plate away while you’re still chewing your last bite!
And take heed, no “doggie bags.” I mean, you could ask for one, but it’s not normally done. So eat up!
Bonjour, Madame
Perhaps it’s just my little village and the towns near mine, but everyone passing by says “bonjour.” The delivery man, dog walker, shoppers, children. No one passes anyone without a friendly “bonjour.” And most of the time, the greeting is even more polite. “Bonjour, Madame,” “Bonjour Monsieur.” Or if you’re in mixed company, “Bonjour messieurs-dames.” It’s just so respectful and, well . . . French!
So, there you have it, a few of my early impressions on the differences between living in the U.S. and France.
Vive la différence!
Read about Zoe Disigny on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page.
