So you’ve decided to visit Austria. Great choice! What words does Austria conjure up for you. Waltzing? Mozart? The Sound of Music? Mountains?
If music was one of the things that came to mind, then put Austria–and Vienna in particular–on your must-visit list.
As a life-long devotee of classical music (I’ve played piano since I was five!), I always enjoy visiting both Vienna and Salzburg. I get a thoroughly classical music hit touring the houses of some of my fave composers, enjoying concerts, and checking out the wonderful House of Music in Vienna.
And if you are a museum-goer, you’ll swoon in Vienna, which has some of the largest and most varied museums in Europe. And then there are mountains! Travel west from Vienna to experience mountain vistas in Salzburg and Innsbruck.
Austria Highlights at a Glance
Explore the Tyrol and take a tour to Castle Neuschwanstein just over the border in Germany
Visit Salzburg and commune with Mozart and The Sound of Music
Practical Tips for Travel in Austria
In this post, I cover some of the basics of visiting Austria–when to visit, checking events, transportation, accommodations, and food.
But first, a bit of trivia! Did you know that Vienna has been named themost livable city in the world for the past three years in a row (and several more years before that)? The city earned a rating of 98.4 out of a possible 100. Wow!
Another one of my favorite cities in Europe also made the cut– Copenhagen is #2. My home town of Vancouver is #7 which isn’t too shabby!
A Map of Austria
The map below includes the four places mentioned in my posts about Austria: Vienna (#1), Salzburg (#2), Innsbruck (#3), and tiny little Pinswang (#4) where we stayed on a driving trip through Austria on our way to Italy. Click a number to view links to more posts.
Here’s where I cover some of the basics of visiting Austria–when to visit, checking events, transportation, accommodations, and food.
Decide When to Visit
First off, decide when you want to visit. If you are hoping to enjoy cultural delights such as opera, festivals, and music events including performances by the Vienna Boys Choir, then visit between September and May.
I’ve visited Austria in both May and September and the weather was perfect for touring apart from the occasional day of rain.
Check Events and Exhibitions
Before you visit Austria, check online for exhibitions and performances. Also be on the lookout for local festivals.
Austria is not a large country and it’s easy to travel around. The drive from Vienna to Salzburg takes about three hours, four if you include a few stops.
Trains are also fast and efficient. Consider taking trains between cities (Vienna to Salzburg to Innsbruck) and then either renting a car to tour the countryside or booking a small group guided tour.
A good strategy when visiting Austria is to fly to Vienna, see the city for a few days, and then pick up a car to explore the rest of the country. We did that on one trip and found driving out of Vienna relatively stress-free compared to some other European cities such as Paris and Rome.
Public Transit
As a relatively small country, Austria is easy to explore by train. You can zip from Vienna to Salzburg in about 2 and a half hours. If you don’t want to drive, use the trains to get between the major cities (Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck) and then take day tours.
Small Group Tours
I highly recommend small group tours run by locals as a stress-free way to explore the countryside. If you enjoy driving, then by all means rent a car. But if you’d rather relax and leave the driving to someone else, consider day tours. I’ve sometimes left my car at my hotel and taken a small group tour of a particular region that I’d rather not drive through (e.g., tortuous Alpine roads).
Driving Through Austria
Often, I’ve driven through western Austria when traveling from Germany to Italy, crossing at the Brenner Pass.
On a recent trip, I stopped for the night just across the border in Austria from the town of Fussen, Germany. The town is famous for being close to “Mad Ludwig’s” castle, otherwise known as Neuschwanstein.
I spent the night in the tiny and impossibly charming village of Pinswang nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains. Called the Gutshof zum Schluxen, the 3-star bed-and-breakfast was everything a place in the fabled Austrian Tyrol should be.
The proprietor wore lederhosen, the wine was local, the dinner hearty and very Austrian, and the room with a view over the valley was comfortable and quiet.
If you’re staying in Munich and don’t have a car, see the castles on a guided day trip.
Castle Neuschwanstein in Schwangau Germany just over the border from Austria
Safety in Austria
Austria is a safe country to travel in. I stayed on my own for several days in Vienna. Every evening, I walked around the city and took transit to my apartment and I never felt in danger.
But, as always, be aware of your surroundings and wear your money belt!
I found Austria, and Vienna in particular, expensive. Even the 3-star bed-and-breakfast we stayed at in the Tyrol, the Gutshof zum Schluxen mentioned earlier, cost about €140 for one night.
Expect to pay €250-400 or more for a centrally located, good-quality hotel room in Vienna. When you’re looking for accommodation in Vienna, choose places within the old city walls.
You could opt for a budget hotel on the outskirts but I don’t recommend doing so. You’ll waste too much time commuting through dreary suburbs into the wonderful city center. Spend the money and book a good hotel in the old city.
I made the mistake of being budget conscious to a fault on one trip to Vienna when I booked an apartment about a 40-minute tram ride from the city center. Sure, the place was inexpensive, but the hot water ran out on the second day and it was located in a nondescript neighborhood, kilometers from the action.
Apartments can be a good bet in Vienna, but again, book one in the center of the city. You’ll find excellent ones listed on HomeAway and on Booking.com. Click on the map below to find hotels in Vienna.
Two words describe food in Austria–hearty and filling. If you like wiener schnitzel, you’ll have no trouble getting well fed in Austria. Every menu includes it along with other staples such as tafelspitz, which is boiled beef with root vegetables. The broth is flavorful but when I tried it in Vienna, I can’t say I was impressed.
Homemade Breaded Wiener Schnitzel with Potatoes
For dessert, just try to resist Apple Strudel–layers and layers of flaky pastry, tender apples, powdered sugar–yeah, what’s not to like?
In Vienna, set aside an hour or two to drink coffee and eat a slice of sachertorte in one of the iconic coffee houses. Invented by Franz Sacher in 1832 for Prince Metternich in Vienna, a slice of sachertorte will slide down pretty darned smoothly–chocolate sponge cake, apricot, dark chocolate icing.
Sachertorte puts the ‘ee’ in sweet.
Sachertorte
Apparently, December 5 is National Sachertorte Day in the United States. Who knew?
Conclusion
Have you traveled to Austria? Share your experiences and recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Here are more posts to read next to help you plan your Austria trip:
England is so full of artsy sites and experiences that you’d need a lifetime to explore them all!
Visit the many sites dedicated to great writers such as Shakespeare, Jane Austen, and Wordsworth; tour fabulous stately homes steeped in history; visit some of the world’s loveliest gardens, and of course check out world-class theater in London.
And that’s just scratching the surface of all that England has to offer. This page provides a short introduction to one of my favorite countries.
See a performance at the Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC) in Stratford-upon-Avon
Visit Durham Cathedral in northern England, still my favorite cathedral ever
Stay in the heart of London and see a musical at a west end theater
My Relationship to England
England has played a major role in my life since I first visited in 1970 on my epic European trip with my mom.
Four years later, at the age of eighteen, I returned to England with two friends and circumnavigated it by train–traveling from London up the east coast to Scotland and down the west coast to Wales and all the way to Land’s End in Cornwall.
We stayed in youth hostels and cheap B&Bs and had a marvelous time!
On Dover Hill in the Cotswolds
My love affair with England was only beginning. I stayed in England for four years–earning my B.A. in English Literature from Reading University and then completing an education certification at Durham University. During those years and on subsequent trips, I saw a great deal of England.
In recent years, I’ve returned several times to England and always find new things to see and to write about.
Favorite Places in England
The map below pinpoints my top ten favorite places in England.
If you’re planning a trip to England, consider including these places in your itinerary. I suggest focusing on the south and southwest in Dorset, Devon, and Cornwall, then visiting Oxford, Stratford-upon-Avon and the Cotswolds before heading north to spend time in York, Durham, and the Lake District (Keswick makes a good home base).
This map was made with Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android
Practical Tips for Travel in England
Here’s where I cover some of the basics of visiting England–when to visit, checking events, transportation, accommodations, and food.
When to Visit England
English weather does not have a great reputation. For much of the year, it’s rainy, grey, and kind of chilly. But even on the wettest days, I’ve discovered that England’s weather can surprise and delight.
Many times I’ve set off in the rain in the morning and spent the afternoon in glorious sunshine (and vice versa). Take an umbrella and dress in layers and England’s weather shouldn’t slow you down.
That said, the best times to visit England are in the late spring, summer and early fall. Darkness falls quite early in the winter and often attractions are closed or have limited hours.
Lately, summers have been uncharacteristically hot which is a problem because most places in England are not air conditioned.
Check Events and Exhibitions
Before you visit England, check online for exhibitions and performances. Also be on the lookout for local festivals.
You’ll definitely want to check what’s playing in the West End while you’re in London. Find listings on websites such as London Theatre Direct and London Theatre, and then book directly with the theatre.
A revival of My Fair Lady in London was first-rate
I almost always get better seats at more reasonable prices when I book with the theatre than if I go through one of the big resellers. But checking the big websites is the best way to figure out what you want to see.
On one of my recent trips to England, I saw four performances in three days: My Fair Lady, Six: The Musical, and Jersey Boys in London, and Richard III performed by the Royal Shakespeare Company in Stratford-upon-Avon. Each performance was first-rate and worth every penny.
And speaking of money, theatre performances in London are remarkably reasonable compared to their counterparts in New York. I paid on average about £50 to £80 for excellent seats at each performance. If you want to be “up in the clouds,” you will pay a lot less.
And while you’re in London, visit Shakespeare’s Globe. If you can’t get tickets for a performance (recommended), at least take one of the guided tours of the theater. I’ve taken them twice and learned a lot!
England is not a large country and it’s easy to travel around by public transit, although not quite as easy as it was back in 1974! Many train routes have been closed over the years, particularly those in rural areas. But getting from city to city by train is still fast, efficient, and relatively inexpensive.
Take the Train!
If you’re 60 or older, consider purchasing a Senior Railcard. You get a considerable discount on train journeys; the cost of the railcard easily pays for itself with just a few trips. Check the UK Railcard website for information about the senior and other cards.
Driving in England? Maybe not.
When I lived in England back in the 1970s, I drove everywhere and was perfectly fine. However, first, I was young and intrepid, and second, the traffic was a LOT less insane back then.
I really don’t recommend driving in England. There are just too many cars on the road; the number and complexity of routes and roads are mind-boggling, and let’s face it, if you’re a North American, driving on the left is challenging, to say the least.
Now, if you’re visiting Scotland or Ireland, then I say go for it. Driving in those countries (with the exception of Dublin–don’t even think about it) is a pleasure.
A good strategy when visiting England is to fly to London, enjoy one of the world’s great cities for at least three days (and preferably more), and then take the train west to Oxford, Stratford-upon-Avon, and Bath, and north to York, Durham, and the Lake District.
Trains in the UK are generally efficient and relatively inexpensive
In London, take cabs, Ubers, the Underground, or busses!
Small Group Tours
Consider home basing in cities such as Bath and York, and then taking small group tours to explore the countryside.
I took a small group tour of the Cotswolds from Stratford-upon-Avon and had a lovely, relaxing day. If I’d tried to explore the area on my own by car, I don’t think I’d have seen half as much, and certainly my blood pressure would have suffered. Here’s Go Cotswolds tour to consider:
England is a safe country to travel in. I’ve traveled solo several times in England and never worried. Just use common sense, and if you feel worried, take an Uber. They are all over the UK!
Staying in England
England, and London in particular, is not an inexpensive place to travel. However, you do get good value for your money, in my experience.
Expect to pay £250-300 or more for a centrally located, good-quality hotel room in London. I suggest you resist the temptation to choose cheap accommodation outside the city center. You’ll waste time and money traveling into London, and probably see more of the Underground than is conducive to interesting travel.
London
Here are good bets in central London:
Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden could not be more central–five minutes from Trafalgar Square, five minutes from the theaters (and some were just across the street), five minutes from Covent Garden, and short bus rides from just about everything you’d want to see in London.
The Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel is well-located just across the street from Victoria Station and excellent deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.
The Cavendish near Green Park is in a posh area and close to just about everything.
The ParkCity in Kensington is convenient to London’s awesome museums.
Click on the map below to find more hotels in London.
In the rest of England, I tend to favor small hotels or B & B’s. Here are some places I’ve stayed in and recommend:
Pen and Parchment in Stratford-upon-Avon: Close to the RSC, comfortable rooms, great food in the pub
Malmaison in Reading: Stylish and very close to the station in the center of Reading
Cotswold Lodge Hotel in Oxford: Country hotel, fairly central, and with good dining rom
Jorvik House in York: on a quiet street in an interesting old building
The Lerryn in Falmouth in Cornwall: Room with a view and a wonderful breakfast
Eating in England
Two words describe food in England–surprisingly excellent.
How times have changed! For decades, England was maligned for its tasteless, overcooked food. Now, great restaurants are everywhere, featuring food from all over the world.
You won’t go hungry in England anymore.
One of my favorite meals was an upscale version of the old ploughman’s lunch that I used to love when I lived in England in the 1970s. The one I ordered in York was beyond amazing! A pork pie, thick slices of ham, apples, hard-boiled eggs, crusty white bread, salad, pickles galore, fresh Yorkshire butter (and lots of it) and two very hefty slabs of cheese. I was in heaven!
You can also choose from a wide range of world cuisines pretty much anywhere in England. When I was in York, I opted one evening for a curry. The highly-rated Taas restaurant close to the Botham Gate leading into the old city of York served up a delicious Nepalese meal. A good choice!
Charcuterie and local cheeses at a pub in Yorkshire
Conclusion
Have you traveled to England? Share your experiences and recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Here are three posts to read next to help you plan your England trip:
Great travel starts with great travel gear. As a dedicated traveler, I’m always looking for travel products that provide good value, are durable, and make my trip more comfortable.
For me, comfort is key!
In this post, I share my tips on choosing your travel bag, packing up and going, and staying safe and comfortable on the road.
Choosing Your Travel Bag
After years of trial and error, I’ve
finally settled on the perfect suitcase. When I was young, I hoisted a
backpack, but no more!
Nowadays, I recommend a 28″ midsize hard-shell expandable suitcase with spinner wheels.
Your perfect suitcase should also include a large zippered pocket for dirty laundry and should open flat with straps and/or a middle liner to keep all your stuff from spilling out.
Although I own a jaunty magenta carry-on roller bag, I rarely use it for more than a one- or two-night trip.
Midsize Suitcase Benefits
A midsize suitcase is small enough to hoist on and off trains and busses but large enough to fit packing and compression cubes (more on them later), a pair of sandals and a pair of nice shoes. You can wear your walking shoes on the plane.
In winter, I wear my boots on the plane, ditch the sandals, and pack my walking shoes.
Another good thing about a midsize is that you probably won’t be able to cram so much stuff into it that it becomes too heavy to lift. Do you really fancy wrenching your shoulder every time you need to stash your bag in the trunk of the car or pull it onto a train?
Me neither.
The Joys of Bag Checking
Are you TeamCarry-on or TeamCheck?
Another reason I suggest a midsize bag is because I’m a big fan of checking my bag rather than taking it onto the plane. Why bother trying to cram all your stuff into a carry-on? You may as well enjoy the extra room.
Increasingly, airlines are charging for checked baggage and that extra cost is a consideration. In my opinion, the little bit extra you pay is worth it for the ease and convenience of traveling with a bag that fits your stuff.
I’m a firm fan of checking my bag every time I travel
Why You Might Want to Skip Carry-On
First, you can breeze through airport security with just your purse or small bag and maybe a laptop case and then hang out in the departure lounge as unencumbered as possible.
Second, don’t you just loathe the stress of boarding the plane and scrambling for space in the overhead bins? I carry only a small purse (my travel Baggallini!) and a backpack for my laptop. Thus unencumbered, I arrive at my seat, whip out the laptop, throw the almost empty backpack into a corner of the overhead bin and start choosing movies for the flight while everyone else is elbowing each other for bin room.
And finally, nothing beats ending a flight knowing that you won’t have to lift your heavy carry-on down from the overhead bin, wrenching your shoulder (more wrenching) or worse, inadvertently bonking the head of the lady across the aisle.
By checking a midsize bag, yes, you’ll wait a few minutes at baggage claim in the Arrivals hall. But in my world, being comfortable and avoiding pain almost always wins out over saving time (a recurring theme on Artsy Traveler!).
The exception to my no carry-on policy is when I’m traveling for just a few days and have tight connections. I have had my bag get lost in transit and it’s no fun.
My Recommendations for Choosing Travel Bags
So, here are my recommendations for choosing a travel bag based on your travel style.
Carry-on
You have two outfits that you’re happy to wear on alternating days for the duration of your trip, a second pair of shoes, no books or jewelry, a tolerance for doing laundry every few days, and a horror of waiting for your bag in the Arrivals hall.
Midsize
You agree with all the reasons I gave
above (and maybe have a few more of your own). Enough said.
Large
You’re going on a cruise, so you won’t be packing and unpacking your bag every night or two. Also, you need extra room for all that cruise formal wear. I’ve been known to over-pack a large suitcase when going on a cruise. I’ve taken several and I do appreciate being able to unpack on day 1 and not pack again until the ship noses into port on the final day.
My husband and frequent travel partner Gregg always chooses Large because he’s catapulted the art of traveling heavy to new heights. Most of his suitcase is filled with a large portable fan, power tools for taking crates apart at art exhibitions , sundry bits of wood for frames, and art materials. A few of the corners are stuffed with clothes.
But Gregg is a special case and we
won’t dwell on him.
Some Good-Lookin’ Bags
When buying a bag, I check the brand, the weight, and lastly the color. Buying super cheap is not a great idea when it comes to luggage. I’ve had to get rid of more than a few suitcases over the years because I went for cheap instead of quality.
And buying a good-quality suitcase is more environmentally friendly than buying and then ditching a broken suitcase.
One expensive example of this folly occurred in Amsterdam. The handle of my cheap midsize broke the morning we were leaving to return home to Canada. What a kerfuffle! I had to find a luggage store in Schiphol Airport (fortunately there was one), pay a premium for a new suitcase that I hated, and beg the nice salesperson to dispose of my broken suitcase. I then had to pack the new suitcase on the floor of the store.
Again, thank goodness for packing cubes and a nice luggage store salesperson. She was very understanding, probably because she’d seen it all before.
Packing and Going
What to Take AKA No More Packing Light
Are you a light packer? I get it, but I have to say that I’ve had my fill of packing light. On my first trip to Europe when I was 14, I wore the same hideous mauve Fortrel (and if you don’t remember Fortrel, consider yourself lucky) pantsuit for 30 days. My mom wore the same navy blue skirt and jacket. We dutifully washed out our smalls every few days and that was about it.
On a few subsequent trips, I continued to buy into the one-outfit-with-everything-matching rule and lived to regret it.
You don’t wear the same thing every day at home so why would you do so when you’re traveling? Okay, that’s not exactly true. As I emerge from two years of staying home during the pandemic, I pretty much do wear the same thing every day at home, but that’s beside the point!
When I travel, I like a bit of variety, which is why I almost always opt for a midsize bag!
Variety is the Spice of Travel
I know I’m going against the ‘packing light’ grain, but I suggest you take a variety of clothing that you’ll enjoy wearing over the course of your trip. Not everything has to match! I know, heresy! But seriously?
What I Take Seasonally Adjusted
Now that I’m traveling again, I’m going mostly on long trips that last at least two months. As a result, I need to be able to get everything into my trusty midsize suitcase and still feel like I have enough variety so as not to get bored.
Summer/Fall Traveling
Here’s what I take for trips in the Spring or Fall:
Three pairs of pants or capris in black or beige depending on the season; avoid white
Two or three skirts or light dresses (fewer if it’s a fall trip)
One nice dress or skirt/top combo for going out
Six tops of varying weights that go with the pants and most of the skirts
Two sweaters; one could be a fleece
Bathing suit, underwear, socks, etc.
A nice jacket (sometimes two)
Rain jacket
Hat and scarf for fall travel
Small stash of costume jewelry (and I purchase more as I travel)
After a day of sightseeing, you deserve to change into something a bit dressier to go out for dinner. Who wants to wear sightseeing gear to enjoy a 4-course splurge dinner?
Cold Weather Traveling
When I traveled to Iceland in February, I added winter boots, lots of hats and scarfs (you can never have too many!), gloves, thick socks, and long underwear. I made room for all this by not taking as many dresses or “nice” clothes since most of the time in Iceland, staying warm was by far a greater priority than looking good.
Warm Weather Traveling
On a recent trip to Kauai, I didn’t bother with a sweater, but I did throw in four bathing suits and a towel. Usually I’d only include one bathing suit and may not even bother taking a towel unless I knew I was doing some beach time. I also took only one pair of pants (which I only wore on the plane) and upped my stash of light summer dresses.
Since I was traveling alone, I wasn’t too fussed about my appearance. Most days I wore my bathing suit under a light summer dress, added a pair of sunglasses and sandals, and that was about it!
Packing Tips
Okay, I’ll admit it. I love packing! Few things are more satisfying than laying all my stuff out on the bed and then systematically rolling and packing each item so everything fits perfectly with space left over for the fruits of foreign shopping.
Four handy items have fostered my love of packing: Packing Cubes, Compression Cubes, Pouches and Purses.
Packing Cubes
Roll pants, jackets and sweaters into the extra-large packing cube, and shirts and tops into the large packing cube. Then use the medium cube for socks and the small cube for underwear.
When you arrive at your destination, simply remove a packing cube, extract the one item you want, and replace the cube in your bag. No more rifling through layers of folded items and ruining your careful packing system the moment you pull an item out.
I can’t begin to guess how much time I’ve saved over the years with packing cubes—time I’ve put to good use snapping photos, having a glass of wine on the terrace, and writing my blog posts.
Compression Cubes
A compression cube or sack is a zippered bag that includes a one-way valve for squeezing air out. Use it to squeeze bulky sweaters and jackets into flat, small, waterproof packages.
Use compression cubes to store soft, bulky items that you’ll be wearing only occasionally. Save your packing cubes for storing your everyday garments. Also note that you can’t store hard objects such as books in compression cubes.
Using a combination of compression cubes and packing cubes is the way to go, especially if you’re a serious over-packer!
Pouches
In these days of portable electronics, you need an easy way to store the various batteries, plugs, earbuds, and cords required to run all your gadgets. I store everything in one pencil-case sized pouch.
Buy ones for especially designed for traveling, or pick them up at an office supply store or dollar store.
In addition to pouches for electronic
ephemera, you’ll need a pouch or two for your toiletries.
TIP: Pack small-size toiletries so you can enjoy the fun of shopping for toothpaste and other necessities in foreign countries. Gregg enjoys finding exotic brands of aftershave lotions, especially in Italy and Spain where for some reason the scents are heavenly.
Handbags
Okay, just one handbag unless you also count a backpack or satchel. I carry my laptop in a backpack and Gregg carries his in a satchel. For everyday walking around and sightseeing, I carry a small travel handbag that includes a zippered compartment for my passport and space for my phone and a small wallet for cash, an ATM card, and two credit cards.
TIP: Make photocopies of your passport, credit and ATM cards, and any other important documents before you leave. Take one copy with you and leave another with someone at home.
My favored handbug for travel (a Baggallini) is much smaller than the bag I carry at home. It’s very light, washable, and worn bandolier style over my shoulder and across my body to thwart thieves. Gregg carries his daily walking-around stuff in the front pouch of his small camera bag.
A fanny pack (also known as a hip pack) is also a possibility although I have to say they are not the most flattering travel accessory! Still, they’re very convenient and are easy on the shoulders.
Keep it very simple and uncluttered.
Staying Safe and Comfortable on the Road
Food Bag
Pack a soft-sided, collapsible insulated bag. It’s invaluable for keeping food coolish during transit. We fill ours with individual yogurts, cheeses, vegetables, and fruits, and buy fresh buns at local bakeries to make picnics.
For more on eating on a budget in Europe (and the food bag plays a part!), see Dine Well on a Budget.
Power Adapters
When traveling in Europe, you need to have a good supply of adapter plugs—the two-prong 220 adapter for Europe and the three-prong adapter for the United Kingdom.
You must purchase these before you leave home. Finding them in Europe, even at large electronics stores, is a major headache and often impossible. Even at the massive FNAC in Paris (a major electronics chain), we couldn’t find 220 adapters.
Buy at least four more adapters than you think you‘ll need and store them in your electronics pouch or in a separate pouch.
On just about every trip, we lose a few of the plugs. I don’t know where they go. They’re kind of like socks in the dryer. If you have three devices that need plugging in at night, take eight adapters. Trust me on this.
Laptops and Tablets
A laptop or a tablet is a nice-to-have accessory when traveling in Europe. Most hotels have WIFI so you can connect your device to watch movies and other entertainment in the evenings. To be honest, English TV in most European hotels is either non-existent or limited to two or three news channels.
E-Readers
I always bring along my e-reader so I can download and read novels and guidebooks on the go. In addition, I often pick up paperbacks while traveling. Many hotels have a shelf of books left by travelers for you to take and read and then leave at another hotel.
Smartphones
These days a smartphone is a necessity. I remember with a mix of fondness and horror trekking to a train station to examine the paper schedules, trudging dark, rain-slicked streets to find a bed-and-breakfast, and running out of money only to find that all the banks within 50 miles were closed for days and that none of the local merchants accepted traveler’s cheques.
Ah, those were the days! Not.
Use your smartphone to look up train schedules and then buy the tickets online, book your accommodations while you’re on the train, check restaurant ratings (I do that a lot) when you get to your destination, and even find your way through the back alleys of Venice. Some of the serendipity of travel has disappeared with the arrival of smartphones, but we’re able to spend our travel time more wisely now as a result.
The ratio of sightseeing to survival is more like 80/20 these days whereas back in the day, the ratio was closer to 20/80. We often spent more time getting from A to B, looking for accommodation and then finding somewhere to eat when fast food and cheap restaurants were a novelty than we did enjoying the places we’d traveled so far to see.
These days, travel is just too darned expensive to waste time on taking care of food and shelter needs!
Security
Money Belts
Packing and compression cubes, pouches, and purses definitely help you stay organized while traveling. For peace of mind, also wear a money belt. I favor the style worn around my waist and under my clothes. Gregg likes the neck-pouch style for storing his passport when in transit.
At hotels, we use the safes provided to store valuables such as passports and any extra cash. These days, most safes lock and unlock with a four-digit combination that you choose. Use an easy one such as an important year in your life (not your birth year!) but not one as simple as 1-2-3-4.
Back in the day, hotel safes were accessed with keys. I still shudder when I remember losing the safe key while staying at a hotel in London. We were charged a very hefty fee to get access to our valuables because as we discovered the hard way, the hotel did not keep duplicate keys.
Locks
Purchase a small travel lock for
securing your luggage while on trains and in public areas. Some travel bags
feature built-in combination locks.
RFID Blocking
A good idea while on the road in Europe is to encase your smartphone in an anti-radiation pouch, also known as an RFID blocking sleeve. This handy accessory prevents identity theft and also blocks up to 100% of harmful Electromagnetic Radiation (EMF) from getting to and damaging your mobile devices.
Conclusion
Do you have tips on what to pack for Europe that you’d like to share with other Artsy Travelers? Please comment below!
Here are some more posts containing tips for smart travel:
Take a private guided tour to Mycenae, Corinth and Epidaurus
Stay at 99 Dream Vacations, a reasonably-priced apartment in the center of old Nafplio
Overview of Nafplio
Compared to Santorini, Nafplio feels deserted. One reason is that the large cruise ships don’t come here. As a result, most visitors either pop in for a quick visit on a tour from Athens, or stay a night or two. Many use the town as a home base to explore nearby ancient sites.
In this post, I share my suggestions for things to do in Nafplio and how to allocate your time. I suggest spending three nights and two days, with one day devoted to a tour of Mycenae, Corinth, and Epidaurus.
History of Napflio
Nafplio, also known as Nafplion and Nafplia, was the first capital of Greece from 1828 to 1834 following the Greek War of Independence.
The history of Nafplio is fascinating. Back in the 15th century, Venice conquered the region and left behind three formidable fortresses—one high atop an imposing cliff that looms over the town, one on a peninsula not visible from the town, and one out in the harbor.
Floodlit at night, the two fortresses visible from the seafront add a romantic touch to this elegant little town.
Getting to Nafplio
After a three-hour ferry ride from Naxos to Piraeus (check out my post about our three nights on beautiful Naxos), we take a private transfer to the charming city of Nafplio, a two-hour drive on a mostly empty highway.
The cost of the private transfer is about $250 and while not inexpensive, it was a much more convenient way to get to Nafplio from Piraeus. The alternative would taking a taxi into Athens and then catching a bus to Nafplio or renting a car.
When you are on a fairly tight itinerary, spending extra to save time makes good sense.
You could visit Nafplio on a day trip from Athens, but don’t! As mentioned above, Nafplio is worth at least two nights and preferably three or four.
Arrival in Nafplio
The driver drops us off in the little square in the middle of Nafplio old town a few meters above our place and points down a narrow alleyway.
Your apartment is down there.
Okay…
We trundle down the narrow street to another narrow street flanked with souvenir stores and look around hopefully. Julia spies the name of the apartment high up on a wall: 99 Dream Vacations. Now all we need to do is get in.
Staying in Nafplio
I text our host and, to my relief, she rounds the corner into our street minutes later and lets us into a beautiful apartment complete with high wood-beamed ceilings, a comfortable living room and two bedrooms.
The kitchen is stocked with provisions for breakfast—tubs of creamy Greek yogurt, along with eggs, fruit, bread, and enough coffee pods to keep me well caffeinated for the entire stay.
I highly recommend 99 Dream Vacations if you’re looking for a centrally located and reasonably-priced apartment. Here are photos of the living room and adjacent dining room.
Getting to Know Nafplio
On our first evening, we stroll around the cute streets of the old town of Nafplio, all brightly lit until late in the evening, and share a very tasty pizza at a café overlooking the Bourtzi fortress in the harbor. The fortress is one of three built by the Venetians.
As usual, the service is efficient and friendly. During our entire 16-day trip in Greece, we never once experienced poor service.
After dinner, we treat ourselves to an Italian gelato at a gelateria reputed to serve the best gelato in Greece. The server greets us in Italian, and the gelato is indeed excellent. Several hundred years of Venetian occupation have left their mark on Nafplio.
Day 1 in Nafplio – Exploring the Town
Our first full day is a semi-down day with very little planned beyond taking a cooking class at 5 pm. Nafplio is a charming and walkable town, but it’s fairly low on sights.
I recommend checking out the Archeological Museum and the Venetian Fortress of Palamidi (also known as Palamidi Castle) perched high above the town, and then spending the rest of the day relaxing, shopping, eating, and strolling (not necessarily in that order).
Archeological Museum of Nafplio
After breakfast at an outdoor cafe in Nafplio’s old town, we head to the Archeological Museum to learn all about the early inhabitants of the area—some dating back 30,000 years. This is a very old part of the world!
The Archeological Museum in Nafplio is well organized and compact and definitely worth a visit if you are interested in ancient history (and hey, you’re in Greece!).
The permanent collection includes artifacts dating from the Paleolithic period to Roman times. The most important exhibits are associated with the Mycenaean centers of the region.
All the exhibits include informative English captions. I particularly like the collections of pots, including a well-preserved Octopus pot.
A highlight of the museum is a suit of bronze armor that was found in a chamber tomb dating fthe 15th century BC. Check out the boar tooth helmet. Imagine how many boars gave their lives to make that helmet.
I also snap a picture of three reconstructed theatrical masks. As a former theater major (back in the day, I got my Master’s in theatre from the University of Toronto), I have a soft spot for Greek theater and am looking forward to our visit to the ancient Greek theater at Epidaurus.
Tourist Train in Nafplio
With the clouds threatening rain, we set off after our visit to the museum to find the hop- on-hop-off tour bus that will, according to the guidebook, take us up to the fort.
We could climb the 999 steps from the town to the top, but we won’t.
Fortress of Palamidi seen from Nafplion
At the bus stop, we discover a little tourist train next to a sign advertising a 20-minute meander around the town. With 30 minutes to spare before the hop-on-hop-off bus arrives, we decide to give the tourist train a whirl.
Feeling like toddlers on a day trip, we clamber into the train which sets off at a painfully sedate pace. My great-grandma could walk faster.
The English commentary is not particularly compelling and the only charming streets we putter down are ones we’ve already walked along.
Tourist train in Nafplion
At one point, we squeeze past the café where we had breakfast. We want to sink through the floor as the server catches our eye and kind of smirks as if to say, Really? You fell for the tourist train tour? Don’t you know it sucks?
She is right. For the next twenty minutes, we chug along, often stuck for several minutes in traffic with nothing to see either side but graffiti-scrawled walls and kids playing volleyball at the local high school.
The train circles through the modern part of the town which doesn’t have much to recommend it, with some vistas appallingly ugly.
Not all of Nafplio is charming
Finally, excruciatingly, we arrive back at the parking area only to discover that the bus has already left. So much for that plan! But no matter; the skies have been steadily darkening and we feel a few raindrops.
Rather than go up to the fort where the main attraction is views of the sea, we decide to head back to our lovely two-bedroom apartment for some R & R.
I write for a while, nap for a while, and around three o’clock, the skies clear and we venture out again.
Fortress of Palamidi
We have two hours before we need to be at our cooking class, so we catch a taxi up to the fort. The driver says he’ll return for us in one hour and that we can pay him then.
I’d read that the taxi ride from the town to the fortress should cost about 10 euros so I figure that I may as well give him my 20 euros for a round trip rather than take my chances that a taxi will be available when we emerge from the fort.
We wave a cheery good-bye to the driver and set off to explore the Venetian fort. There’s not much left of the fort itself, but the views are jaw-droppingly stunning.
We clamber and climb over the remains of the ancient fortifications, snapping picture after picture of views Nafplio that go on forever. It’s a wonderful place to visit—a Nafplio must-see for sure.
After much climbing and snapping photos of views of Nafplio, we enjoy a drink at the tiny concession inside the Palamidi Fortress.
We exit the fort precisely one hour after we arrived and find our driver waiting.
After a few wrong turns, he drops us off at Savor Nafplio Cooking School a few minutes before 5 pm. He also charges us 40 euros for a round trip that should have cost 20 euros. But what to do? I hand over the cash and chalk it up to one of the few times we are ripped off in Greece.
The cooking class is a must-do! See my post all about it.
Day 2 in Nafplio – Tour of Ancient Sites
We’re up early on our second full day in Nafplio to take a guided tour of the major archeological sites in the area: Mycenae, Corinth and Epidaurus.
I’ve read about these places for decades and seen pictures, so I’m beyond excited to finally see them in real life, especially the ancient theater of Epidaurus.
If you have a car, you can take day trips from Nafplio to visit the ancient sites. We did all three in one day, which felt very doable.
A few minutes before 9 am, we walk into the small square near our apartment and meet our driver, George. To our delight, we’re in a small van rather than a bus and traveling with just two other people—a honeymooning couple from New York.
George inches the van down a very narrow street lined with stone houses on one side and restaurant tables and chairs on the other. He makes it to the end of the road unscathed and then negotiates several tiny maneuvers to coax the van around a very tight corner hemmed in on two sides by parked cars that he passes with centimeters to spare.
It’s an impressive display of driving skill, and I feel we are in good hands.
George sets off towards the ancient city of Mycenae. He is very enthusiastic about the Mycenaeans, a still-mysterious culture that thrived around 3000 to 1700 BC, after the Minoans, but well before the Athenians (500 to 300 BC).
Mycenae
Around 1600 to 1200 BC, the city of Mycenae ruled its mighty empire from atop a hill now littered with evocative ruins and some truly marvelous tombs. Historians don’t know all that much about the Mycenaeans—who they were, where they came from, and what happened to them.
We do know that around 1200 BC, the Mycenaeans defeated Troy and became the rulers of the Aegean before mysteriously disappearing from the ancient map.
Tomb of Agamemnon
Our first stop is known colloquially as the Tomb of Agamemnon. It is very likely not Agamemnon’s tomb, but calling it the Tomb of Agamemnon is better than calling it the Tomb of Some Bronze Age Dude We Don’t Know.
Its other name is the Treasury of Atreus, which isn’t nearly as romantic nor as descriptive since the site is, definitely, a tomb. Or was.
We are the only people at the site until the honeymooners catch up with us, and I am thoroughly verklempt. Here’s the entrance to what is called a beehive tomb.
The interior of the tomb is massive, its high stone ceiling a testament to Bronze Age architectural know-how. The walls of horizontal stone blocks rise up and up to a height of more than 13 meters, decreasing in diameter the higher they go until the dome is closed.
I breathe in the smell of ancient stone and let my imagination soar to the height of the tomb. This place is almost 4000 years old. It was already ancient history when Plato walked the earth.
Try to arrive as early as possible, preferably just after the site opens to avoid the crowds. I am so grateful I was able to see the tomb on my own rather than with five dozen people all crammed together and simultaneously snapping photos. Talk about an imagination killer.
The honeymooning couple take our picture all alone in front of the tomb. Very soon, taking this same shot with no one else in it would be impossible.
In the five minutes it takes for George to drive from this site to the main site of the Mycenae Acropolis, five tour buses have pulled in. The early visitor definitely gets the best shots.
Palace of Mycenae
The sparse ruins of the palace high on a hill overlooking a spectacular view are pretty much all that’s left of a great and powerful empire. But one element is a show-stopper—and that’s the famous Lion’s Gate that dates from around 1300 BC.
I remember seeing pictures of it back when I first studied art history. It was touted as an incredible engineering achievement, considering its age. In fact, the relief of the lions is the oldest monumental relief in Europe.
The stone lintel upon which the carving of two headless lions sits weighs over 18 tons.
The Lion’s Gate at Mycenae
Awestruck, I pass through the gate and then start the climb to the top of the site. Those ancient Mycenaeans must have been in great shape. The climb is steep but worth the effort.
At the top, I take this panoramic video that shows the beauty of the surrounding countryside.
I’m captivated by an area of the ruined palace called the Artisan Quarter. This was once an extensive building complex that consisted of two stories (although only the foundations survive). Based on finds such as ivory objects, gold leaf, and remnants of semi-precious stones, archaeologists believe the buildings must have contained artists’ workshops.
Hmm, a novel about a Mycenaean jewelry maker? Maybe he’s kidnapped by the Sea People (Sardinian pirates, some think) who allegedly are responsible for conquering and destroying Mycenae? Maybe he’d taken on board a ship and rowed to Sardinia?
Contemplating the glimmerings of a plot keep me entertained when we’re back on the road driving to our next stop.
Archeological Museum at Mycenae
As with every ancient site I visited in Greece, Mycenae includes a small archaeological museum. I am particularly taken by the extensive collection of carved figurines and an intriguing ceramic snake.
Ancient Corinth
Our next step is the ancient city of Corinth. In around 400 BC during Greece’s Golden Age, the city was one of the country’s largest and most important cities, with a population of 90,000. And then the Romans swept in during 146 BC, demolished the city as they were often wont to do, and built a new city in its place in 44 BC.
As a result, most of the ruins and the artifacts in the museum are Roman, not Greek.
Nevertheless, the site is pretty darned evocative. With the sky studded with interesting clouds, I snap some good photos of the remains of a Doric temple.
Corinth is famous with Christians because of the two letters that Paul wrote in the New Testament. Several tours led by Christian clerics were prowling the site while we were there, some even gathered in circles and singing and/or praying.
The ruins are quite extensive and worth visiting. The museum also merits a look. It contains a courtyard full of Roman statues along with other artifacts, including this well-preserved mosaic.
After wandering around the ruins for a while and visiting the museum, we enjoyed a tasty and reasonably-priced traditional Greek lunch at a small nearby piazza ringed with restaurants and souvenir shops.
Corinth Canal
Nowadays, most cruise ships and freighters can’t squeeze through the Corinth Canal, but it’s still a marvel of engineering. From a vantage point on a bridge high above the canal, it’s hard to believe the canal is 24.6 meters wide and 6.4 kilometers long. From the bridge, the canal looks a lot narrower and shorter.
As far back as the 7th century BC, engineers dreamed of building a canal to connect the Gulf of Corinth in the Ionian Sea with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea. Even Nero had a go. He actually broke the ground with a pickaxe and removed the first basket load of soil in 67 AD.
But then he died and the project was abandoned. It wasn’t until 1893 that the canal was finally built.
The Theater at Epidaurus
For me, the ancient theater at Epidaurus (a UNESCO World Heritage site and rightly so) is the highlight of the day. I’ve read about it and seen pictures, but nothing prepared me for its sheer size and grandeur.
Regarded as the best-preserved ancient theater in Greece, the theater was constructed in the late 4th century BC and is still used for performances.
Our guide, George, tells us that he saw a performance of Oedipus Rex in the theater when he was five and cried loudly when Oedipus died, thinking it was all real. He still comes to performances and brings his own children, assuring them it’s all make-believe.
Arrival at the Theater
The pathway from the entrance to the theater ends at the stage with the rows and rows of seats fanning upwards in a half-shell.
From the stage, the theater doesn’t look that big and I’m just a tad disappointed.
Climbing up the Theater
But then I start to climb—up, up, up with my heart pumping and my sore knees screaming. I count each step, pausing occasionally to catch my breath and note how much farther I have to go (far!).
Finally, I make it to the top and look down. A wave of vertigo makes me clutch the nearest railing. Yikes, I’m high.
The magnificent theater spreads out before me, perfectly engineered and harmoniously constructed. It’s like a poem in stone.
Waaaaay down on the stage, I hear people testing the famous acoustics that allegedly allow all 15,000 spectators to hear a pin drop.
I recommend you make the trek up the stairs to the top of theater if at all possible. You really can’t appreciate the breadth of this marvel until you see the whole theater spread before you with the hills and sky beyond.
Around the Theater
The theater is situated near the ancient sanctuary of Asklepios, which was a celebrated healing center in ancient times and dedicated to Asklepios, the god of healing.
After visiting the theater, we wander through the extensive archaeological site dotted with columns and various and sundry ruins.
It’s an extremely pleasant place in which to imagine ancient people streaming along the walkways to see a performance by that new guy, Euripedes.
Back to Nafplio
It’s been a good, long day of sightseeing. Just as we pull away from the site, the heavens open. George slogs valiantly through a violent rainstorm, but fortunately, before we have time to worry about flooding, the sun bursts out and all is well with the world for the rest of the trip back.
We spend our last evening cruising around the picturesque streets, enjoying yet another tasty Greek meal (they’re all tasty), soaking up the atmosphere in lovely Syntagma Square, and picking up a few souvenirs.
Here’s the main plaza at night.
Tours Around Nafplio
GetYourGuide offers tours of the ancient sites on the Peloponnese Peninsular that are easily accessible from Nafplio. Many more tours depart from Athens, but then you’re faced with a much longer drive each way and may not find as many small group tours.
Here’s an option for a private guided tour to the archaeological sites:
If possible, see the ancient wonders of Mycenae, Corinth and Epidaurus from your home base of Nafplio. You’ll have more time to tour the archaeological sites as well as spend some quality time in Nafplio.
Win-win.
Conclusion
Have you visited Nafplio? Share your suggestions for artsy travelers in the Comments below.
Author Zoe Disigny (The Art of Traveling Strangers) has made her dream of owning a house in France come true! Read about her experience in this guest post for Artsy Traveler.
Vive la Différence
We bought a house in France! I know, I can’t believe it either!
I’ve fantasized about living in France since my first high school French class, and now, over fifty years later, that dream has come true four months out of the year. And although I’m new to this, I’d like to share some preliminary observations about living in rural Southern France versus urban Southern California.
A road outside my home in Southern California vs a road outside my home in Southern France
History is Everywhere
The first thing I always notice about France is the palpable presence of history, and my little village is no different. I’m drawn to the textures of the old buildings, with their peeling layers of plaster, red tile roofs, and decorative eaves looking like the pinched edges of pie crusts.
And I love how the village houses still cluster around medieval churches. In Southern California, the buildings would be sleek condos surrounding a shopping center.
Views of our village in the south of France
For Whom the Bell Tolls
A sturdy bell tower crowns the 12th-century church in the center of our village. Its ancient bell tolls daily at seven in the morning, noon, and seven at night, calling the faithful to pray the Angelus—a prayer dating back to the 11th century. The clanging bell is far from melodious, but it fills me with inexplicable joy.
Nothing in Southern California compares.
Beautiful Details
It’s not just the weathered façades of old French homes that reel me in but also their traditional wooden shutters with black iron hardware. The iron fasteners that hold our window shutters open take the shape of tiny female busts and are called arrêts bergère (shepherdess stops). I love their hats and how proper these ladies look. They clearly take their job seriously!
Against the stone façade of our house, our door shutters with their multiple iron bars remind me of a medieval fortress. And the six-step process to close and latch them each night feels just as archaic—an inefficiency that would not go over well in the U.S. but appeals to my romantic soul.
I’m also charmed by the delicate lace curtains placed flat against the inside of the windows. They soften the darkness of the closed shutters and filter the light when the shutters are open—an old-fashioned window treatment that would look entirely out of place in my home in California.
Navigating French Bureaucracy
The English word bureaucracy comes from the French word bureaucratie coined in the 18th century to describe a cumbersome government of multiple bureaus or offices. It’s fitting that the French invented this word because France is notorious for it.
Case in point: Our cash offer for our French house was accepted on May 16, 2022. Even though there were no contingencies, the sale was not approved until Aug. 30—three and a half months later!
In California, if all goes well, cash buyers can close a sale in as little as seven days.
Getting from Here to There
Driving in France (not Paris) is a pleasure, as long as you’re good at navigating endless rond points (roundabouts) and realize you won’t get stopped for speeding. Instead, if you’re caught on a speed camera, you’ll get a ticket in the mail. Surprise!
Of course, there’s often no need to drive because the trains go everywhere and are comfortable, clean, and inexpensive for short hops. It only takes twelve minutes and costs three euros for us to train to Narbonne (fourteen miles away on the Mediterranean).
And one of the best things about traveling around France . . . no billboards!
A highway in France
The Pause that Refreshes
In my part of France, most stores (except grocery stores) close from noon to 2 (unless it’s Sunday when nothing is open—again, except grocery stores, but they’re only available until noon). Got it?
Our home improvement store, Bricomarche, is very strict about its midday closure. As the noon witching hour approaches, staff members circulate the store, barring customers from selecting more items and shooing us toward the checkout counter.
Stop a client from buying? That would never happen in the U.S.
As the stores shut down for lunch, the restaurants open—but only from noon to 2 (or sometimes 1:30). If you miss that window, they don’t open again until 5 (at the earliest).
Dining in France
The tradeoff for this narrow timeframe is the delicious, artfully presented food! Other compensations include no loud music or distracting TVs (making mealtime more favorable for conversation, savoring, and digestion).
Tipping is strictly voluntary. With a government-required service charge added to the bill, a 5-10% tip is generous.
Artfully presented and delicious food in France
Another dining difference in France—the pace of the meal. Not only does it usually take a little longer to get your food, but it takes a lot longer to get your bill. This is not great if you’re in a hurry, but at least they won’t whisk your plate away while you’re still chewing your last bite!
And take heed, no “doggie bags.” I mean, you could ask for one, but it’s not normally done. So eat up!
Bonjour, Madame
Perhaps it’s just my little village and the towns near mine, but everyone passing by says “bonjour.” The delivery man, dog walker, shoppers, children. No one passes anyone without a friendly “bonjour.” And most of the time, the greeting is even more polite. “Bonjour, Madame,” “Bonjour Monsieur.” Or if you’re in mixed company, “Bonjour messieurs-dames.” It’s just so respectful and, well . . . French!
So, there you have it, a few of my early impressions on the differences between living in the U.S. and France.
Vive la différence!
Read about Zoe Disigny on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page.
