Top Ten Ways to Joyously Experience Traveling in Europe

August 21, 2024October 11, 2024Destinations, Europe, Get Inspired, Travel Smart carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 11th, 2024 at 12:49 am

In the aftermath of the pandemic, everyone and their cousin who wants to travel and can travel is heading for Europe. Recently, Italy was named the number one tourist destination in the world, with France close behind. Many destinations are full to bursting with visitors, which means sold-out accommodations, packed beaches, and museums filled to the rafters.

Some communities, such as Barcelona and Malaga in Spain, and Santorini in Greece, have even launched campaigns to limit the number of tourists permitted to invade their hometowns at any one time.

Introduction

I’ve experienced my share of crowds all flocking to experience the same iconic sites—the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, the Uffizi in Florence, the Colosseum in Rome, the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Thousands surge into spaces meant for hundreds, each holding aloft a smartphone to capture the moment.

The joys of travel—discovering new places, meeting new people, learning new things, enjoying great art—quickly dwindle in the face of relentless crowds, inflated prices, and grumpy locals.

Interacting with Locals

When you travel to a new place, consider looking for opportunities to interact with locals instead of lining up for the big-ticket sites. Sample local food, check out off-the-beaten path museums and galleries, meet local artists and artisans, go to local concerts, ride public transit, and wander around back streets where local people live.

You can do all these things in even the most heavily-touristed destinations if you’re willing to zig away from the crowds rather than zag towards them. Doing so may require you to skip the most famous—and crowded—sites. But the rewards more than make up for any lingering feelings of FOMO (Fear of Missing Out).

Here are my top ten ways to joyously enjoy your European travels.

1. Check Restaurant Reviews

Chances are you’re traveling with a smartphone. Use it to find restaurants that fellow travelers and especially locals have rated highly. Ever since I started checking reviews and purposely choosing restaurants instead of wandering the streets in hopes of finding a place, I’ve enjoyed numerous awesome dining experiences.

In fact, I can safely say that almost every highly rated restaurant I’ve eaten at in Europe in the last few years was a winner.

A Parisian café is a great place to people watch while enjoying a trip to Europe

Search Criteria

I search for restaurants that have at least a 4.5-star average review and then read what people say about the quality of the food and the service. If most of the best reviews are in the local language, that’s a plus because it means the restaurant is well frequented by locals.

Make Reservations

Once I’ve made my choice, I visit the restaurant’s website and call to reserve a table or use the online booking system if it’s available. I’ve found in recent years that reservations are essential in many popular places. Without one, you may well be wandering for quite some time before finding a well-reviewed restaurant with available tables.

Note that during busy periods, you may have better luck choosing a reservation time when the restaurant opens (usually 7 or 8 pm, depending on the location). Europeans tend to eat dinner later than North Americans. If you make a reservation for 7 pm, you may well have the restaurant to yourself.

A good rule of thumb in any big European city is to steer clear of restaurants that are full of tour groups reading multi-lingual plasticated menus in high-rent locations such as the Piazza Navona in Rome.

Walk a few blocks away from the busy areas to quiet side streets and you’ll find favorite local restaurants with superb food.

Ask a Local for Recommendations

Another good strategy is to ask your hotel to recommend a local restaurant and then make a reservation for you. Every time we’ve gone to a restaurant recommended by our hotel, we’ve had a great meal.

For a giggle, check out what happened to me when I did not follow my own advice in Bella Roma Rip-off, one of the pieces in Pastel & Pen: Two Ways of Seeing, a collaboration of my writing with Gregg Simpson’s artwork. Gregg is an artist and my husband and usual travel companion.

2. Seek Out Lesser-Known Museums

Your sightseeing time is precious. Instead of spending it waiting in long lines, seek out museums and other sites that may be less well known but are just as interesting (sometimes more so) and considerably less crowded. These days, you’ll stand in line to tour the big sites even if you book ahead. On a recent trip to Pompeii, I lined up for forty minutes to get my skip-the-line ticket that I’d purchased online days earlier, and then lined up for another twenty minutes in the skip-the-line line to get into Pompeii.

Instead of sweating in the queue outside the Louvre in Paris, visit the lovely Rodin Museum.

In Amsterdam, skip the Van Gogh Museum (or go very early in the day) and visit the charming and informative Rembrandt Huis.

In Rome, forget the Vatican Museum and head instead to the marvelous Etruscan Museum that houses an incredible collection of treasures. Both times I’ve visited, the museum was virtually empty, which is in no way a reflection on the quality of the displays. The museum just happens to be so far off the beaten track of Rome’s iconic sites that few tourists find it.

The Etruscan Museum in Rome is almost never crowded, a great bet for travelers looking to avoid crowds — The Etruscan Museum is one of Rome’s most interesting museums

Lesser-Known Museums to Visit

Here are posts about some of my favorite lesser-known and fabulous museums:

3. Go to Art Openings

If you’ve checked out other posts on Artsy Traveler, you’ll know that a lot of my European travel centers around my husband’s art exhibitions. Most exhibitions include an opening (a vernissage in France; an inaugurazione in Italy). These events often include food and wine, and a short talk by the artist and the curator. They are also free to anyone who wants to drop in.

We’ve frequently met fellow travelers at Gregg’s openings, in addition to local art lovers, and have attended the openings of exhibitions by other artists—some we knew, some we didn’t. We always have a memorable time!

Art openings in Europe are usually free and open to everyone — Art openings at private galleries in Europe are usually free and open to everyone

Finding Art Openings

To find art openings, check online listings. Also, stroll areas that have a lot of art galleries, such as the Left Bank and Marais districts in Paris. You’ll have the most luck finding an opening in the early evening on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

If you pass an art gallery hosting an opening, don’t be shy! Walk in and say hello, check out some artwork, and maybe even have a glass of wine and an appetizer. You’re bound to meet a few locals who speak English, or you can practice your language skills.

4. Attend Local Concerts and Events

One of my favorite things to do when traveling in Europe is going to classical music concerts. Sometimes, I book tickets ahead of time to see a particular concert, but at other times, I look for posters and flyers.

On a recent trip to Siena, I picked up a flyer in our hotel advertising an intimate concert with a singer and pianist held in a local church. It was magical!

While in Rome, we saw a poster advertising concerts at the stylish Auditorium Parco della Musica well off the tourist beat north of the city. We bought tickets, and enjoyed two fantastic concerts with other music lovers, the vast majority of whom were locals.

Classical music concert venue in Europe — Classical music concerts are top quality and reasonably priced

Tourist Concerts

I find that attending concerts in Europe really enhances my appreciation of the local culture. Even if the concert is advertised for tourists—such as a flamenco performance in Seville—it’s going to be good.

Trust me on this. We’ve enjoyed fado in Lisbon, flamenco in Spain, medieval music in southern France, opera in Paris, folk music in Bacharach on the Rhine, Vivaldi in Venice, Stravinsky in Berlin, Chopin in Leipzig, Shostakovich in Hamburg…I could go on and on.

And best of all, prices for classical music concerts in some of the world’s best concert venues are shockingly reasonable compared to what we pay to attend a concert in Canada.

Fado performers in Porto, Portugal — Local performances are generally authentic and well worth the price

5. Ride Public Transit

Few travel experiences bring you closer to locals than riding busses, trains, and metros. These days, you can pay for most transit options with a tap of your credit card. I love hopping on a bus and following my progress on Google Maps, so I know exactly where to get off.

I also enjoy people-watching on public transit. On very crowded busses and metros, just be sure to keep a good grip on your valuables. While violent crime in Europe is rare, pickpockets do flourish in crowded cities.

A bus in Europe, a great way to travel local — Take a city bus in Europe and enjoy great people watching

A Cautionary Tale

A word of caution about bus travel. If you happen to have a paper ticket, ALWAYS remember to validate it when you get on the bus. I learned this lesson the hard way. On a recent stay in Turin, I got on the bus, paper ticket in hand, and noticed that no one else was validating their tickets at the machine. I wrongly presumed that validation wasn’t required. Maybe it was a special holiday?

Ten minutes later, an inspector got on the bus and started checking tickets. Everyone on the bus held up their smartphones. As tourists, we had only the paper tickets we’d purchased from the local tobacconist. When the inspector came to Gregg and me and tried to scan our tickets—nada. My protestations of being a dumb tourist fell on deaf ears. That mistake cost us 40 euros—each.

So, just because no one else is validating their ticket doesn’t mean you shouldn’t validate your ticket!

6. Shop for Food in Local Markets

Shopping for snacks, lunches and the occasional dinner in your hotel room or apartment not only lets you experience life as a temporary local, but it also saves you money. In general, food prices are lower in Europe (although starting to rise). The quality of the fresh produce is also far superior to what is found in the average North American grocery store.

I love prowling the aisles of a European supermarket and ordering pre-made food at the in-store delis. I’ve typically found the staff to be friendly and tolerant of my attempts to at least say hello, good-bye and thank you in their language.

Outdoor Markets

Be on the lookout for open-air markets where you’ll find a dizzying array of foods along with clothing and knick-knacks. Some cities also have large indoor markets, such as the Mercado de Triana in Seville.

An outdoor market in Europe is a great place to find good, fresh food while avoiding tourist crowds — Interact with locals while browsing outdoor markets in Europe

7. Take a Cooking Class

When you take a cooking class in Europe, you’ll meet travelers from around the world and learn from a local chef. I’m a firm fan of cooking classes and take one every chance I get.

On a recent trip to Rome, I learned how to make gelato and pizza with lovely Marco: Pizza, Gelato, Suppli–Oh My! A Fantastic Cooking Class in Rome

A cooking class in Europe is a great way to learn new skills and avoid crowds — Take a cooking class and learn new skills

In a tapas class I took in Madrid, I met fellow travelers from Australia, Holland, the UK, France, and Korea.

8. Go on a Walking Tour

I’ve also become a big fan of walking tours, particularly specialty tours that cater to a specific interest. In Rome, I went on a walking tour of the old Jewish ghetto. In London, I explored the back alleys and colorful history of the Covent Garden theater district. In Stratford-upon-Avon, I joined three other people for a small walking tour with a guide pretending to be William Shakespeare.

Walking tours usually take you behind the scenes and to places where regular bus tours can’t go. The guides are often locals who are very enthusiastic about their subject and love showing off hidden gems.

A great source for walking tours is GuruWalk. All the tours listed are pay-what-you-can and run by locals. Here are some of the free walks available from GuruWalk in Paris.

9. Skip the Iconic Sites

Yes, this recommendation is blasphemy but heeding it could make the difference between reveling in a relaxing and memorable European vacation and enduring one that leaves you hot, bothered, and blistered. When you’re planning what you want to see, consider not visiting super popular sites such as the Colosseum in Rome, the ruins in Pompeii, and the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Instead, choose smaller, lesser-known museums and sites, and leave more time for wandering.

By all means, stroll past the Colosseum and view the Eiffel Tower from one of the bridges. Snap some photos and drink in the view. Then, veer off into a shady side street and enjoy an hour or tour wandering around a quiet neighborhood, sitting in a park, and enjoying a drink at an outdoor café surrounded by locals.

Carol Cram in front of the Colosseum in Rome — See the Colosseum from the outside only

Travel isn’t all about ticking off the big sites. Instead, think of travel as your opportunity to surround yourself with a kaleidoscope of interesting sights, sounds, and smells.

Slow down and savor the displays in a small museum, make time for a concert or an art opening, be on the lookout for a local festival, and just be.

10. Walk Away from the Crowds

Even in Venice, one of Europe’s busiest tourist cities, you can find solitude. Leave the busy piazzas and thoroughfares and within seconds, you’ll be wandering down narrow alleyways and crossing tiny bridges spanning sleepy canals that look like they haven’t been disturbed for centuries.

Even in crowded Venice, you can easily find quiet corners

I skirt the main tourist drags in busy towns by going left or right down the first narrow street I see. I may get a bit lost, but I’ll also find glorious solitude and the chance to commune with the past.

Siena’s Campo bustles with tourists but walk a few meters down a side street and you’re alone and surrounded by buildings that haven’t changed much in 700 years. And at night, you’ll even have the Campo all to yourself.

Carol Cram in the Campo in Siena at night — Have the Campo in Siena to yourself at night

Such opportunities for quiet encounters with history make European travel endlessly appealing.

Some of My Favorite Uncrowded European Sites

Conclusion

What are your tips for avoiding crowds in Europe? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below.

When is the Best Time to Tour Europe?

August 18, 2024October 11, 2024Get Inspired, Travel Smart carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 11th, 2024 at 03:58 am

Are you trying to figure out the best time of year to tour Europe? You probably already know that summer may not be the best time to tour some European countries, but not necessarily all.

How do you plan your trip to get maximum bang for your euro while also avoiding crowds and enjoying decent weather?

Don’t worry! You’re not the first person to ask this question. I ponder it myself when planning my trips to Europe. And the answer depends on three factors:

Crowds
Activities
Weather

I do consider one other factor, and that is when my husband, artist Gregg Simpson, has an art exhibition scheduled. Even then, we do our best to schedule his exhibitions according to the three considerations listed above.

Introduction

I’ve visited Europe in all four seasons, and each has its pros and cons. Yes, even summer can be a great choice, depending on where you’re going!

Read on for my recommendations for when and where to tour Europe in each of the four seasons, starting with summer.

Touring Europe: Is Summer Best?

I think back to summer vacations when I was a child. My parents packed my big brother and me into a hot car and drove us to a National Park or a beach or to visit relatives. Summer vacations were a combination of fun and sunburn.

Now that I’m a grown-up, I think about summer a bit differently. I no longer have children in school and my work commitments are flexible. I can stay home in the summer and avoid excessive heat and crowds, or I can choose destinations that give me a comfortable summer holiday experience.

Aerial View of a beach in Portugal during the summer, a great time to travel to Europe. — Tour Europe in the summer to experience plenty of awesome beach time

Touring Europe in the Summer

Some European countries are best visited in the summer—and some are not! Here are my recommendations.

Countries to Avoid in Summer

If possible, avoid summer travel to destinations such as southern Portugal, southern Spain, southern Italy, and Greece. Thanks to climate change, summers are getting hotter and tourist spots are paying the price.

Attractions such as the Acropolis in Greece are often closed in the afternoons because of excessive heat, and trust me, you really don’t want to tour Rome when the temperatures soar above 38 C (100 F).

Countries to Consider in Summer

Southern France, northern Italy, northern Spain, and northern Portugal can all experience hot summer weather, but don’t rule them out as summertime destinations.

I visited southern France one June and was gasping for air during a canicule when temperatures hit 45 C. With air conditioning still not that common, I spent a lot of time floating in a pool when I wasn’t sitting indoors next to a tray of ice in front of a fan. But I’ve also stayed for several weeks in southern France during July and August and enjoyed beautiful weather. Yes, it was warm, but not excessively so, and finding reasonably priced accommodations with pools was pretty easy.

And of course, there are beaches.

So don’t rule out visiting the south of France in summer, although you will find it quite crowded, particularly in August.

Northern Italy is comfortable, and there are all those beautiful lakes and mountains to explore. I’ve also visited northern Spain and northern Portugal in summer and enjoyed both, even experiencing quite a bit of rain in green and pleasant Galicia in northwest Spain.

View of the Dolomites in northern Italy, a great destination for summer travel — Destinations such as the Dolomites in northern Italy are a summer travel choice.

Countries to Choose in Summer

You can’t go wrong visiting countries in northern Europe during the summer. Here are my recommendations.

France

Take a summer vacation in Brittany. You’ll find some crowds, but you’ll also enjoy beautiful weather and fabulous beaches along with local festivals.

Other great options in France for summer touring are Normandy and the Loire Valley.

White cliffs in Normandy, a great destination for summer travel in Europe — Normandy is beautiful in the summer with plenty to see and great beaches to enjoy.

For more recommendations for touring France, check out my France page.

Austria, Switzerland, Germany and the Low Countries

I love visiting these countries in the summer, particularly Austria and the Low Countries. Hiking in the Alps is best (and safest) during the summer months.

And as for the Netherlands, the gloomy skies you’ll find during most of the year tend to clear in summer. A visit to the spectacular Kröller-Müller Museum near Arnhem on a balmy summer afternoon is an Artsy Traveler must.

Sculpture at the Kröller-Müller museum in the Netherlands — Don’t miss the outdoor sculptures at the Kröller-Müller Museum near Arnhem if you visit the Netherlands in summer.

United Kingdom

Having traveled frequently in the UK, I can safely say that summer is the best time to visit England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales if you’re hoping for good weather. You may not actually get good weather, but your chances are higher during July, August and even early September than at any other time of year.

That said, I’ve toured southern Ireland in August and have needed to buy gloves and a hat.

Artsy Traveler Motto: Be Prepared!

I’ve also visited Scotland three times during the month of September and each time, the weather was spectacular. The only thing you can be certain about regarding summer travel in the UK is that if it’s raining in the morning, chances are the sun will come out in the afternoon.

View of English countryside — The English countryside in late summer rarely disappoints.

A Note About Garden Tours

One compelling reason to visit the United Kingdom during the summer months is to enjoy the profusion of flowers found both in private and public gardens. I have a soft spot for a good garden tour, and in the UK, you’re spoiled for choice.

Scandinavia

Traveling in the Scandinavian countries in summer is delightful thanks to long days and relatively balmy weather. I spent time in Copenhagen during early September and found the weather a shade cool but mostly dry and perfect for sightseeing.

If you choose to go to Iceland during the summer, you’ll find a lot of fellow travelers. It’s a trade-off.

Visit Iceland in winter and you’ll have many sites to yourself in the semi-darkness. Visit Iceland in midsummer and you’ll jostle for position in front of every waterfall, but on the plus side, you’ll see waterfalls for about 20 hours a day.

View of mountains in Iceland during the winter — Tour Iceland in the summer to experience a maximum number of daylight hours.

No matter when you travel to Iceland, you’ll experience ferocious weather. I visited in February, so I expected it to be cold, but I know people who visited in June and saw almost nothing of the spectacular scenery. How tragic is that?

Summer At a Glance

Crowds: Destinations can be extremely crowded, with many popular sites sold out if you don’t purchase tickets in advance.

Activities: Lots of festivals and markets, but fewer blockbuster art shows and concerts

Weather: Unbearably hot in the south; relatively comfortable in the north

Touring Europe: How About Fall?

I think that fall is the second-best season to tour Europe (or at least most of it). And if you’re wondering, I think spring is the best season (more on touring Europe in the spring below).

Here are the pros of touring Europe in the fall (or autumn for my British friends):

Major Exhibitions

I always check what art and museum exhibitions are going to be on in the destinations I’m planning to visit. While some exhibitions do run through the summer, many of the best ones start in September or October.

Concert Season

Whenever possible, I get tickets to as many classical music concerts as I can when I’m traveling in Europe. Some of the world’s best orchestras are located in cities such as Berlin, Paris, and London, with most concert seasons running from September to May.

Interior of the Elbphilharmonie concert hall in Hamburg, one of the world’s great concert halls.

Manageable Crowds

Well, more or less. Even on a cold November day, Venice was crowded, and a recent visit to the Louvre in Paris in October was a nightmare. But overall, the crowds are not nearly as large in the fall as they are in midsummer, or even spring.

Visit popular sites early in the morning and book ahead, and you should be fine.

Pleasant Weather

I’ve visited most countries in western Europe during the fall at least once and have almost always enjoyed great weather. The temperatures, particularly as you go farther south, are warm but not too hot, and rainfall is generally scarcer in fall than in spring.

Just make sure you’re equipped with a rain jacket and hat no matter where you plan to travel in the fall (or spring, for that matter).

And if you’re traveling in November, be prepared for chilly temperatures pretty much everywhere in Europe. I froze in Venice in late November, and I wouldn’t recommend venturing north of London after October. The days get very short by the time you make it to Scotland.

Fall At a Glance

Crowds: Popular destinations are generally less crowded than in summer, although purchasing advance tickets is always a good idea.

Activities: Major exhibitions and concert seasons start, along with some festivals.

Weather: Balmy and warm in the south growing increasingly chilly as you move north, with rain common everywhere, especially in November

Touring Europe: Winter Wonderland?

Winter is, surprisingly, not a terrible time to visit Europe, although it’s my fourth choice overall. In winter, you should focus your energies on touring cities such as London, Paris, Berlin, and Rome.

I once spent two weeks in Rome in December and loved it. The Vatican Museum was almost empty (that never happens at any other time of year) and the days were clear and crisp.

In winter, the concert season is in full swing, you’ll find plenty of exhibitions to tour, and prices for accommodations will be lower. In northern Europe, the days are shorter, but since you’ll mostly be visiting indoor sites, the lack of daylight isn’t a drawback.

I visited Iceland for ten days in February and enjoyed clear skies on every day but one. I also was able to commune with the major scenic sites in relative solitude and even saw the northern lights. Read more about my trip to Iceland.

Winter At a Glance

Crowds: Popular destinations will be much less crowded, and purchasing advance tickets typically not required except for the most popular sites such as da Vinci’s Last Supper in Milan.

Activities: Major exhibitions and concert seasons are ongoing; also, Christmas celebrations and decorations enliven December all over Europe.

Weather: Chilly in the south growing increasingly colder as you move north, with rain common and snow likely

Touring Europe: Spring is the Winner!

The spring months are the perfect time to tour Europe if you don’t have your heart set on enjoying beach time or lazy afternoons by the pool. Even in southern Italy, the beaches don’t open until the end of May, and the unheated pools in most resorts are frigid.

Empty beach in southern Italy — A breezy beach in southern Italy in early May is still not open for business.

In spring, the crowds are generally larger than in fall or winter (but not as large as in summer!). You won’t be enjoying your favorite sites alone (read about my ill-fated visit to the Colosseum in Rome in May!), but at least the weather won’t be as hot.

Standing in long lines when the temperature is 24 C is manageable. Doing the same thing when the temperature hits 40 C is not.

One caveat about traveling in spring—be prepared for rain. I almost always experience a lot more rain in Europe in the spring than in the fall. On a recent trip to Italy in May, I wore a dress and sandals only once. The rest of the time, I needed long pants and a warmish jacket.

And in April and May in Paris, expect rain and then sun and then rain on repeat.

Carol Cram in front of the Eiffel Tower on a rainy day in May

Carol Cram in Paris on a sunny day in May

As with fall and winter, a lot of major exhibitions at museums and galleries start in the spring. In addition, concert seasons are still in full swing.

You’re also more likely to stumble across pageants and processions in spring, particularly around Easter.

Parade of people dressed in medieval costumes — Medieval processions are popular in Tuscany in the spring

Tulips!

And if you can, make a point of visiting the Netherlands in the spring so you can tiptoe through the tulips in the fabulous Keukenhof Gardens. You’ll find plenty of crowds (go early to avoid the tour busses), but the chance to see so many tulips in one gloriously landscaped garden is not to be missed.

I’ve visited Keukenhof Gardens in April twice. It doesn’t get old.

View of tulips in the Keukenhof Gardens in the Netherlands

Spring At a Glance

Crowds: Popular destinations can be crowded with advance tickets advisable for most sites and required for very popular sites and museums such as the Uffizi and the Louvre

Activities: Major exhibitions and concert seasons are ongoing.

Weather: Moderate in the south and chilly in the north but generally good weather for sightseeing, although often rainier in the spring than in the summer and fall

A Note About Costs

Costs vary from place to place and season to season. You’ll pay more when you travel in high season, but high season is not always summer. At a ski resort in the Alps, for example, the high season is winter. I’ve generally found that prices are low-ish in winter, relatively affordable in spring and fall, and at their peak in summer, depending on the destination.

At popular times of the year, steer clear of resorts and tourist meccas such as Paris and Florence. Instead, seek out off-the-beaten path destinations. Regardless of the time of year, you’ll encounter fewer crowds, meet more locals, and get better value for the money you spend.

Top Tips for Touring Europe

Planning a trip to Europe is almost as fun as going on a trip to Europe. Keep in mind these three tips and you’re sure to make informed choices:

Tip #1: Choose countries based on the weather: go north in the warmer months and south in the cooler months.

Tip #2: Check when major exhibitions and concerts are scheduled and plan accordingly.

Tip #3: Avoid crowds by visiting popular tourist spots during less popular times such as in fall and winter, or first thing in the morning or late in the afternoon.

Ultimately, the best time to travel to Europe is whenever you have the time. You may have to go to Greece in August. If so, travel smart by avoiding strenuous activities during the heat of the day, scheduling visits to tourist hot spots such as the Acropolis in the early morning or evening (it stays open quite late), and opting for less sightseeing time and more pool/beach time.

Or you may only be able to visit England in December. No worries! Spend the mornings visiting scenic areas and quaint villages, and then visit museums later in the day when the sun starts to go down. And in London, spend an evening or two enjoying a West End show.

Conclusion

What advice do you have for someone planning a trip to Europe? In what seasons have you traveled? Which were great? Which are best avoided? Share your experiences in the comments below.

For more posts about traveling smart check out:

Two Highly Recommended Places to Stay in Copenhagen

January 24, 2023October 9, 2024Denmark, Destinations, Hotel Reviews, Travel Smart carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 9th, 2024 at 12:33 am

Finding accommodation in Copenhagen can be challenging if you’re on a budget. But if you have extra money to spare (and you’ll need it in Copenhagen), then you can easily rent a stylish apartment in an iconic location.

Copenhagen is a wonderful city to stay in for at least a week. Not only is there a lot to see and do, but there’s also great pleasure to be had just being in the city and becoming a temporary Dane. Rent a bike or take a cycling tour, wander up and down the many pedestrian streets, stop for coffee and watch the world go by, and stroll along the harbor.

On my visit to Copenhagen in September 2022, we stayed in two places–an apartment for a week and a hotel for one night. Both were great, with the edge going to the apartment, which was hands down one of the nicest and most comfy apartments we’ve ever stayed in during our many years of traveling in Europe.

The map below shows the location of the two places.

Map created using Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

Copenhagen Accommodation in Nyhavn

We chose to spend our week in Copenhagen in Nyhavn, the lively harbor area full of iconic, colorful houses and tons of outdoor cafes. I loved this location and never got tired of walking up and down the harbor taking pictures of the houses in every light.

Nyhavn in Copenhagen — Captivating Nyhavn in early evening

We booked an apartment through booking.com that exceeded our expectations. It was a two-bedroom apartment located in one of the colorful houses right on the harbor. To access it, we walked through two courtyards and then rode an elevator to the fifth (top) floor.

Passageway leading to the courtyard where are accommodation in Copenhagen was located — Passageway leading from the harbor to our courtyard

Building containing the 2-bedroom apartment we stayed in Copenhagen — Building in which our apartment was located

The apartment was very stylishly decorated and included a full kitchen and a very large dining area. We also had a lovely view over the rooftops of Copenhagen.

Stylish living room in an apartment in Copenhagen — Living area

Looking from the living area toward the large dining area in an apartment in Copenhagen — Looking from the living area toward the large dining area; kitchen is on the left

One of the two bedrooms in the apartment in Copenhagen — One of the two bedrooms in the apartment

Colorful rooftops of Copenhagen seen from the bedroom of the apartment in Copenhagen — Colorful rooftops of Copenhagen seen from the bedroom

The price was fairly reasonable considering the location. Copenhagen is not a cheap place to stay, so expect to pay in excess of $300 USD a night. I felt that the apartment was well worth the cost and can recommend it whole-heartedly if you’re planning to spend a week in Copenhagen.

Staying at Phoenix Copenhagen

We had an extra night to spend in Copenhagen as a result of a last-minute itinerary change. Our beloved apartment was no longer available, so we moved around the corner to the stylishly upscale Phoenix Copenhagen.

If you’re looking for a hotel in the Nyhavn area, the Phoenix is a fine choice. It’s pretty high end price-wise and the room was a trifle cramped, but the staff were friendly and as mentioned, the location on Bredgade can’t be beat. The marble lobby was gorgeous and the restaurant downstairs served hearty food, particularly welcome on the cold and rainy night we stayed.

We particularly liked Phoenix Copenhagen because it was across the street from the gallery in which Gregg was exhibiting the “Color of Dreams.” Here’s a look at the exhibition at Galleri Bredgade 22:

Facade of Galleri Bredgade 22 in Copenhagen

Exhibition of paintings by Gregg Simpson at Galleri Bredgade 22 in Copenhagen — “The Color of Dreams” Exhibition at Galleri Bredgade 22

Colorful paintings by Gregg Simpson at Galleri Bredgade 22 in Copenhagen — Paintings in the exhibition

Other Accommodation Options in Copenhagen

Here are other options for places to stay in Copenhagen. If possible, choose a location near the center of the city. The Nyhavn area is ideal because it is within walking distance of just about everything you’ll want to see in this lovely, compact city.

Booking.com

Copenhagen Tours & Tickets

Check Tiqets.com for tickets and tours to places in and around lovely Copenhagen.

Copenhagen Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Copenhagen!

Travel Photography As Art: Tips for Taking Great Shots by Guest Poster Julie H. Ferguson

December 19, 2022December 19, 2022Activities, Get Inspired, Travel Smart carolcram 1 Comment

For most travelers, taking photgraphs is an integral part of exploring new destinations. Some people snap quick photos with their SmartPhones while others travel with several cameras and apply their training and a good eye to taking memorable, even exhibition-worthy photographs. Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson falls into the latter category.

Julie describes how she discovered her love of photography and shares her travel photography tips to help the Artsy Traveler take great pictures.

The cover photo for this post, previously exhibited, shows an iceberg in Baffin Bay, where Julie sailed on an expedition ship in the summer of 2022.

How I Got Started with Travel Photography

I believe photography is an art form, while travel is an addiction. Together, they make a magical combination.

My father was an accomplished painter in oils and watercolors who took me to all the great museums and galleries in the UK and some in Europe. A serious amateur, he was good enough to exhibit in the Royal Academy. He also tried hard to get me drawing and painting from an early age. However, I didn’t have his talent and got frustrated when I couldn’t reproduce what I was seeing. And then, when I was ten, Dad had a brainwave and bought me a Kodak Brownie camera. Finally, I found a way to reproduce what I was seeing! Since then, I always have a camera in my hand.

Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson in Croker Bay on a cruise to Canada's Arctic in 2022 — Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson in Croker Bay on an expedition to Canada’s High Arctic (Nunavut) in 2022 (Courtesy: Susan Dixon)

My Photography Passion Expands

For years, I employed what my father taught me about composition, color, and light, especially after I acquired my first single lens reflex camera. I bought my first digital camera in 1999 and was hooked. I joined a camera club in 2005, practised a lot, and learned how to edit my images on a computer.

Now, I own four cameras — two Nikons and lenses, one small but mighty Lumix that fits in my pocket when I’m doing active things like riding camels, and an old GoPro. I have about 50,000 images in the Cloud and have not stopped practising.

Selection of cameras used by guest poster Julie H. Ferguson when taking travel photographs — Julie’s cameras go everywhere with her when she travels

Exhibiting My Travel Photography

Our visual, connected world has seen an explosion in photography recently but, oddly enough, not much of an increase in photography exhibitions. Go to any small or large gallery, and you will rarely see photographs on display. I try to find photography exhibitions wherever I am in the world and am not always successful, but at least I can enjoy the world’s best travel photographers’ work online. Here are two of my favorite websites:

The excellent art gallery near where I live in Penticton, BC, asked my camera club, the Penticton Photography Club, to mount a small exhibition in collaboration with fibre artists in 2021. This was the first photography exhibit the gallery had mounted in its ninety-nine-year existence. I sold my first image at this exhibition — a thrilling moment for me after over twelve years of exhibiting. It was validating, and I felt I had honored my father’s long ago training sessions.

Guest poster Julie h. Ferguson next to photographs she exhibited — Julie next to the first photograph (R) she sold at an exhibition of the Naramata Inn near Penticton, BC (Courtesy: Merle Kindred)

What Kind of Camera Should You Use?

The best camera you have is the one in your hand is an old saying but it’s spot on! Today, the newer phone cameras are exceptional, and I use mine when I’m stuck without one of my cameras. It takes very sharp images with true colors, and manages low light quite well. The video is good too, although I prefer taking stills because I enjoy the challenge.

My Travel Photography Tips

Do you, like me, view photography as more than a snapshot? Perhaps even art? If so, here are some simple travel photography tips to up your game for taking great travel shots.

Travel Photography Tip 1: Keep it straight

Here’s how to avoid shooting wonky horizons and leaning buildings

Line up the horizon to be parallel with the top or bottom of the screen; line up the side of buildings with the side of the screen.
Don’t tip your camera up or down—keep it parallel to the ground.

An iceberg near Baffin Island in Canada's Arctic--an example of good travel photography — Keeping the horizon line straight and focusing on the foreground

Travel Photography Tip 2: Avoid fuzzy images

Fuzzy images are generally caused by camera shake or poor focussing. Here’s how to fix:

Camera shake (everything is fuzzy): Never hold your camera or phone at arm’s length as it bounces when you click the shutter down. Wedge it against something or fix your elbows on a wall, your chest, or your knees before pressing the shutter.

Out of focus (the subject is fuzzy): Press the shutter halfway down and wait for the camera to focus on the subject. If using a phone, tap the screen over the subject. When shooting people or animals focus on the eye closest to you.

Travel Photography Tip 3: Find great light

Don’t shoot into the sun. The best light is during the golden hour after sunrise and before sunset.

Travel Photography Tip 4: Take great people shots

Light people effectively: Take portraits in the shade or on an overcast day to avoid ugly shadows on faces and squinty eyes in bright sunlight. Dark or silhouetted portraits are caused by bright light behind them from skies, sun, sea, or snow.

Close-up hotograph of a woman whosing how to take people photos without harsh shadows. — An example of a portrait that demonstrates harsh shadows under the nose, deep wrinkles, and squinty eyes in bright midday sun.

Put your focus point on the subject by holding down the shutter halfway while the camera focuses. If your camera has an interactive screen, tap over the subject, or tap the subject on your phone’s screen.

Photograph of two camel traders in Morocco as an example of Travel Photograph Tip 4: keeping the focus point on the subject. — In 2018 at the Pushkar Camel Fair, two chiefs haggle good-naturedly over the price of one camel.

If you’re shooting inside and using flash, move your subjects away from the walls by at least a metre to avoid unsightly shadows behind them.

Travel Photography Tip 5: Apply effective composition principles

Avoid placing your subject (focus point) in the middle of the frame. Use the “Rule of Thirds” and put your subject in the area of one of the red dots in the diagram — it’s more pleasing to the eye.

Diagram showing the Rule of Thirds - Travel Photograph Tip 5.

This photograph of an Inu elder in Canada's Arctic demonstrates the trave; photography tip related to the principle of thirds — This photograph of an Inuk elder in Canada’s Arctic demonstrates the Rule of Thirds and the need for space in front of her.

Travel Photograph Tip 6: Avoid shooting where you are standing

Walk around your subject if possible; move right and left, forward and back, and up and down to find the best angle for your shot.

Ziz Gorge in Morocco - an example of photograph tip 6: avoid shooting where you are standing. — Making this huge rock the focal point using the Rule of Thirds with leading lines in this shot of the Ziz Gorge in Morocco

Travel Photography Tip 7: Practise often!

It’s digital, so you can take as many photos as you like, and your “eye” will begin to improve, and the above tips will become more automatic.

Avoid taking a new camera on vacation without taking 2001+ photographs before you go!

Editing Your Photographs

I always endeavour to get the picture I want right in the camera, but I do appreciate the creativity that the digital darkroom affords. In fact, I love the editing as much as taking the photographs. This is where the magic happens for me.

Once you start getting comfortable with your camera, you might want to take the next step and get an editing app for your phone or computer. There’s plenty of suggestions online or from camera club members to get you started . For example, my favourites are Adobe Photoshop and the Nik Collection, the first of which has a steep learning curve (check out this guide to learning Photoshop). Other apps are effective and easy to use.

Conclusion

Upping your photography game when travelling takes some practice and thought. It’s well worth the effort both for personal satisfaction and as a means of preserving your memories.

Safe travels!

Read about Julie H. Ferguson on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page.

Stay at Sant’Antonio Country Resort near Spectacular Montepulciano in Tuscany

November 8, 2022October 15, 2024Destinations, Hotel Reviews, Italy, Travel Smart carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 15th, 2024 at 12:49 am

Every so often when traveling, serendipity rears its delightful head. The plans you’ve made go awry, but instead of facing disaster, you step into something even more wonderful.

That happened to us while traveling a few kilometers out of the fabled town of Montepulciano in Tuscany.

Read about our day leading up to finding Sant’Antonio Country Resort or cut to the chase and scroll down to my review!

Pin of Sant'Antonio Country Resort - Recommended place to stay

Lead-Up to Montepulciano

In Rome, we woke up to the first rainy day of our time in Italy (we’d been in the country two weeks). The clanging at the building site next door to our apartment was slightly muted, much to our relief. After nine nights, it was time to leave the Eternal City. We were all packed and waiting at the door for our 10:30 Uber. Horrendous Rome traffic delayed him over half an hour, but when he finally arrived, Roberto was cheerful and helpful.

Thirty minutes later, he dropped us at the garage where we found the same smiling attendant and our car already out of its slot and waiting for us to drive it away. What a wonderful service. Shout-out to Parclick!

Arrival in Montepulciano

We made it out of Rome without even one wrong turn—perhaps a record for us! Soon, we were back on the Autostrade speeding north to Tuscany. Ah, Tuscany! It’s one of my favorite places in Europe which is why I set my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, there. I’m working on two more novels set in Tuscany; perhaps on this trip I’d find more inspiration to finish them.

View of the Tuscan countryside — The beauty of the Tuscany landscape never gets old

After a smooth two-hour drive, we pulled up in front of our hotel for two nights—a lovely Albergo about five minutes outside Montepulciano. Neither of us had ever visited Montepulciano and so decided that on this trip we’d skip our usual visits to San Gimignano and Siena and see something new. Good call!

No Room at the Inn

Except we had a few more hoops to go through before the full Tuscan experience would wash over us.

The proprietor of the hotel looked puzzled when I give him my name. He searched his list, frowned, shook his head.

No, Signora.

Oh dear. I pulled out my phone and showed him my booking on booking.com and said in a somewhat aggrieved tone, We’ve definitely booked! See – October 13 to 15! A little shiver of doubt ran through me as I said this. Wasn’t today October 13?

He peered at my phone. Ah. That’s next year, Signora.

Oh.

And of course the place was full.

Plan B

We piled back into the car and started driving toward a place he suggested. Within three minutes–Google Maps notwithstanding–we were lost. We’ve found that Google Maps doesn’t always work well in the Italian countryside, or in the cities for that matter.

Gregg pulled over and I consulted my phone to see what booking.com had to offer. Fortunately, several options popped up around Montepulciano. We wanted something outside the town in a country setting. Over the years, we’ve had our share of disasters when we’ve booked places within the medieval walls of an ancient town. If you’ve ever done so, you’ll know what I mean. And if you haven’t, trust me.

If you’re driving, never book a place inside the walls of a medieval city. Ever.

Success

After a few searches, I selected Sant’Antonio Country Resort. It ticked all the boxes–countryside, looked pretty, nice big rooms, mid-range price, and best of all, available. I booked it, paid for it, and entered the address in Google Maps. The suggested route took us around Montepulciano where a band of red showed traffic congestion. Another route that was supposed to be slower but seemingly more direct took us across country in a straight line.

Throwing caution to the wind, I decided to ignore Google Maps and the nice GPS lady and directed Gregg along the other route.

On Our Way Again

Soon, we were bumping along dirt roads cleaving through vine-studded fields punctuated by deep green cypresses. In the distance, a row of pale blue Tuscan mountains floated in a smoky autumnal haze.

View of Tuscan countryside from Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano

It was the Tuscany of our dreams. And fortunately, the road, although unpaved, was not undrivable. So, at a leisurely and extremely scenic pace, we eventually arrived at a massive iron gate—the entrance to the grandly named Sant’Antonio Country Resort.

I wasn’t sure what to expect.

I pressed the intercom and a voice told us to drive in as the gates slowly opened. The owners were incredibly welcoming and friendly. They informed us that never in the history of their working with booking.com had anyone ever booked on the website on the same day they wanted to stay. Apparently, the system is designed to reject such bookings.

But for some unexplainable reason, a glitch in the system let us through. How fortuitous!

Heaven at Sant’Antonio Country Resort: My Review

Sant’Antonio Country Resort is everything we love about Tuscany. Here’s why:

Located out in the country but still within a short drive of an iconic hilltown, in this case, Montepulciano
Plenty of free parking and easy to drive to
Gorgeous self-contained units in a renovated medieval convent
Most units with terraces
A swimming pool and many outdoor areas on the grounds
Plenty of country walks and scenic drives nearby
Stunning vistas of olive trees and cypresses at every turn
Excellent reviews
Friendly and accommodating owners who speak English and genuinely love sharing their little piece of heaven with their guests

And at the Sant’Antonio Country Resort, there is even a friendly fox that likes to steal shoes. We were warned not to leave our shoes outside our door because the fox would take them. What the fox does with the shoes is a mystery, but we agreed not to find out.

Our Accommodation at Sant’Antonio Country Resort

The owners very kindly upgraded us to a two-bedroom apartment complete with very comfortable living room, a big dining room, a large bed in the master bedroom, a second smaller bedroom where we stashed the luggage, and two bathrooms.

Oh, and two terraces.

Here are a few photographs of the place.

Tuscan farmhouse accommodation at Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano — Our two-bedroom apartment is on the ground floor

Living room at Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano — Comfortable living room and dining area

Carol Cram walking in the countryside near Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano — On a walk on the grounds of the resort

Shaded walkway at a country resort in Tuscany — Beautiful spots for relaxing all over the property

Memorable Dinners in Montepulciano

After a few hours reveling in our good luck, we left around 5 pm for a drive up to Montepulciano which we discovered is a lovely, calm town, much less frenetic than other Tuscan towns such as San Gimignano.

The deal here is food and wine—lots of wine, particularly the vino nobile of Montepulciano. We stopped at a little bar and I sampled my first glass while Gregg had a cappuccino. With about an hour to kill before our dinner reservation (kindly made by our hosts at Sant’Antonio Country Resort), we climbed the cobbled streets to reach the piazza. It was nearly empty in the early evening. I imagine that during the day, the place is mobbed.

Carol in the main piazza in Montelpulciano in Tuscany — Carol in the Grande Piazza in Montepulciano

Looking over the Tuscan countryside from Montepulciano at sunset — Sunset over Tuscany from Montepulciano

Large medieval buidling with porticos against a darkening sky in Montepulciano, Tuscany — Darkness falls over Montepulciano

Dinner at Porta di Bacco was served in an ancient room replete with a column (is it Roman?) and brick arches. The wine and food were predictably excellent. I ordered gnocchi with a duck ragout—hearty and tasty. The food here is different from Rome – more country-style and a nice change from the usual fare offered in Roman trattorias, which can get a bit repetitive.

After a moonlit stroll back to the car, we faced the challenging drive in the dark back to Sant’Antonio Country Resort. A drive that in daylight is quick and easy took on a different tenor at night. We made a few wrong turns but eventually got back on track and were soon pulling into our temporary home.

The next night we dined at Ristorante La Grotta, outside the city walls. Located in a 16th-century building, the restaurant was directly opposite the Church of San Biagio, a noted example of Tuscan Renaissance architecture.

Carol Cram in the Ristorante La Grotta in Montelpulciano — Getting settled at the Ristorante La Grotta

Beautifully plated dessert at La Grotta Restaurant in Montepulciano — My dessert

Church of San Biagio with Montepulciano perched on the hill above

I highly recommend Ristorante La Grotta for a Tuscan splurge. The service was impeccable and the food excellent. It was the most expensive meal we had in nine weeks, but at 110 Euros for three gourmet courses and excellent wine, it was an amazing bargain!

Enjoying Sant’Antonio Country Resort

While at Sant’Antonio Country Resort, we met some fellow Canadians who shared that they’ve visited before, and love returning. I can’t say I blame them!

We spent our day “off” from traveling by taking walks around the property (it stretches for several hectares), enjoying a drive along small country roads in the area, and generally chilling out. We even saw the fox!

Gregg on the terrace at Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano — Gregg working on one of our two terraces

Swimming pool at Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano — Swimming pool (too cold in October!)

Beautiful walkway at Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano — Walkway to our suite

Outdoor dining area at Sant'Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano — An outdoor dining area for guests

Vista of Tuscany countryside — Beautiful vista of Tuscan countryside near Sant’Antonio Country Resort

Should You Visit Sant’Antonio Country Resort?

If you’re looking for a Tuscan retreat that is reasonably priced (albeit slightly on the high side, but worth it), set in a glorious landscape, and owned by very helpful and friendly hosts, then I can’t recommend Sant’Antonio Country Resort highly enough.

For other places in and around Montepulciano, click the map below.

Booking.com

Tours of the Tuscan Countryside

Many years ago, I took a wine tour of Tuscany that included a visit to a vineyard near Montepulciano. If you have a day to spare while visiting Tuscany, I highly recommend booking a wine tour. Here are a few suggestions.

The Joys of Exploring the World with Small Group Tours by Guest Poster Julie H. Ferguson

July 17, 2022October 26, 2022Get Inspired, Travel Smart carolcram 3 Comments

Last updated on October 26th, 2022 at 06:20 pm

Small group tours, whether for a half-day or several weeks, have myriad benefits. The most profound is access to local expert guides who are able to customize the tour according to the interests of the participants. These experts heighten focussed travel experiences and almost always deliver a memorable experience.

Guest Poster Julie H. Ferguson shares her take on why small groups tours are the way to go, particularly for solo and older travelers.

Graphic showing the name of the post: The Joys of Exploring the World with Small Group Tours

The cover photo for this post shows the participants of Julie’s small group tour of Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, with “favorite uncle” Thulani in front. Participants were from Australia, Switzerland, France, Holland, and Germany, with Julie being the sole Canadian (fourth from left).

Why I Recommend Small Group Tours

Many years ago, I went on a couple of regular sightseeing tours of local sites, which meant thirty-plus tourists. It was hopeless! Often, I couldn’t hear the guide or get close enough to the exhibits or even ask questions.

Small group tours are very different! I recommend them in these circumstances:

When you visit art museums and historic sites
When you have limited time in a location and want to see the highlights
When you travel in countries for an extended time where renting a car is unwise or destinations are unsafe to explore alone

Exploring Art Museums and Historic Sites

I learned the benefits of taking small group or private tours in art museums and historic sites the hard way. When my husband was alive, we toured Notre Dame in Paris in twenty minutes. This was not enough time for me, but he didn’t want to join any type of guided tour. As a result, we missed a lot!

Memorable Tours

A decade after that visit to Paris, I was eager to explore the Vatican Museums and told James how much we would gain from having a private guide. He finally agreed to try it mainly because we could jump the tedious entry lines. For five hours, our Italian guide from The Metropolitan Museum in New York thrilled us. James had to admit it was an incredible way to get the most out of the visit! After that, we often hired private guides and took many small-group day tours.

At the Prado in Madrid, we were two of five guests of a PhD in art history. At the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, one of only four mosques open to non-Muslims, a committee member who managed the building project showed my group around.

Hassan II Mosque built over the Atlantic in Casablanca, site of an excellent small group tour. — In Casablanca, Morocco, the Hassan II Mosque was built out over the Atlantic. The floor of the prayer hall is glass so the faithful can see the waves.

I also gained much from a hands-on photography workshop on the Isle of Arran with a professional. One of my favorite solo experiences was a one-on-one, day-long cooking school with an international chef in Fez, Morocco, that cost less than $80 CAD.

The author, Julie Ferguson, pictured in a kitchen in a private cooking class in Fez, Morrocco. — After shopping for ingredients in the food souk in the medina of Fez, I cooked a lunch with the chef’s help for four in a tiny kitchen in a riad or guest house.

For another perspective on taking cooking classes while traveling, check out Take a Cooking Class in Paris by Guest Poster Liz Reding and a post I wrote called Cooking Class in Rome with InRome Cooking.

Choosing Small Group and Private Day Tours

When I arrive with or without a car in a safe city for the first time, I often take a small group tour to get orientated.

On a free day in Windhoek, the capital of Namibia, I spent a morning with a local university student visiting health clinics and schools.

While on a recent trip to Portugal, I took a ten-hour private tour of the Douro Valley that included port tastings, a three-course lunch in a chateau, and a short boat cruise. My driver frequently stopped so I could take photos. He also passed me over to the experts at each location and told me about the region as he drove.

The terraced vineyards of the Duoro Valley in Portugal. — The Douro Valley in northern Portugal is where the port grapes grow on terraced mountainsides. The raw wine is taken down river in casks to Porto to be made into port, matured, and shipped around the world.

Where to Find Small Group Day Tours

I seek tours that focus on history, art, and photography run by reputable companies. Sometimes, I find tours by researching online or by asking the advice of hotel concierges. When I wanted to visit textile factories in Delhi, the concierge wove all three of my interests into one marvelous day.

Yes, I pay a premium to enjoy these private or small group tours, but the value they provide is enormously worth the cost. They quadruple my enjoyment of art museums, castles, cathedrals, and cuisine.

I see much more than I could alone, my understanding and appreciation of the location soars, and I support the local economy.

Taking Extended Small Group Tours

Although I was an experienced solo traveler, after James died, I wanted to dig deeper into my A-list which included remoter regions where solo travel was challenging or downright unsafe.

I suspected that extended small group tours with twelve or fewer tourists would work for me, but I had concerns. Would I like my travel companions? Would I be the oldest? Would I get enough vital alone-time?

My First Extended Small Group Tour

My first experience on an extended small group tour was on a Majestic Line cruise of the Scottish Inner Hebrides. A micro-cruise in a converted Irish trawler meant I was trapped with twelve passengers for a week. I needn’t have worried. Everyone was respectful of others’ time, the captain listened to our pleas for unscheduled adventures, and the gourmet food was divine. Small vessels can reach places that bigger ships cannot, which meant I enjoyed wonderful shore excursions accompanied by a local expert.

A boat called the Glen Tarsen, a converted Irish trawler used to take small group tours of the Hebrides in Scotland. — Cruising the Inner Hebrides of Scotland on the Glen Tarsen, visiting Mull, Iona, and Staffa and exploring castles, remote bays, sea lochs, and enjoying a wildlife safari on land.

Favorite Benefits of Small Group Tours

Who takes small group tours? What is the transportation? What about transfers and baggage? These are all good questions, and the answers provide more reasons why I prefer small group tours.

Small Group Tour Participants

I find people who travel with extended small-group tours are well-educated, gracious, helpful, and fun. Almost all are well traveled, with the majority being retirees, often from different countries. Sixty to eighty percent are solo and most are female. I’m still in contact with friends I’ve made from around the world.

Transportation on Small Group Tours

Every extended tour I’ve done has used modern Mercedes Sprinter vans with fourteen seats. These vehicles have good air-conditioning, coolers for water (and gin!), and USB ports for charging cameras and laptops. In Africa, the all-terrain Sprinters easily handle the bad roads and trails in game parks.

During my last three-week safari, our Sprinter had two flat tires and a fuel leak (not unusual) that were all repaired on site by our amazing tour leader who was also our guide, expert ranger, driver, navigator, picnic chef, and favorite uncle.

Mercedes Sprinter van used to transport small group tours on safari in Africa. — The Mercedes Sprinter in Namibia as we prepared our daily picnic lunch in a remote spot; the trailer carried all our baggage, picnic kit, a folding table and camp chairs.

Access to Help

A significant bonus of taking a small group tour is access to help and on-call problem solving whenever I need it. I also appreciate having my baggage transported, my airport transfers organized, and accommodation in clean, well-run hotels.

Recommended Small Group Tour Companies

My two recommended tour companies are Explore! in the UK and Bestway Tours in Canada, which have focussed inventories of worldwide trips, often categorized into activity levels. These tour companies choose locally owned and regularly assessed hotels. I have visited China, India, and sub-Saharan African countries, among others, with them on many long tours and safaris.

Conclusion

If you’re not sure you’ll enjoy small group tours, I suggest trying a couple of half-day or full-day tours to see if you gain pleasure from them. I’m certain you will. While you likely won’t experience in an hour or two the friendships that accrue from longer tours, you’ll get a good idea if small group tours are for you. Then, perhaps, you’ll decide to take some extended tours.

Safe travels!

Read about Julie H. Ferguson on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page.

I’m a big fan of small group tours and have enjoyed them in New Zealand, Australia, and Iceland. Here is a post about my small group tour around Iceland:

Iceland in February : An Eight-Day Ring Road Tour

Have you taken small group tours? What did you think? Share your stories about the joys (and otherwise) of small group sightseeing.

Smart Ways to Travel Green

May 5, 2022October 15, 2024Travel Smart carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 15th, 2024 at 03:30 am

Traveling green is a challenge in these days of high fuel costs and encroaching climate change. Can you enjoy traveling while still doing your part to reduce greenhouse gasses, help local economies, and lessen your impact on the planet?

Let’s face it. The greenest thing you can do for our precious planet is to stay home. On the other hand, traveling usually (not always) helps local economies and it also enriches your life. It’s a trade-off for sure.

I choose to continue traveling. But I also choose to seek out smart ways to travel as greenly as possible. I share my suggestions for green travel in this post.

Pin with the text "Smart Ways to Travel Green"

Traveling Green: Transportation

Carbon Offsets

Search online for companies that offer carbon offsetting programs. Visit a website such as Atmosfair and use the tools to calculate the greenhouse gas emissions generated from your trip. Then pay the offset company the amount required to reduce emissions elsewhere in the world by funding offset renewable energy projects worldwide.

On the Plane

I shudder at the amount of garbage produced on planes. The flight attendants patrol the aisles armed with massive plastic bags into which we chuck plastic glasses and the remains of meals consisting of more packaging than food. It’s discouraging in this day and age.

What to do?

Reduce some of the waste by taking your own water bottle onto the plane. Empty it before security and then fill it up before you board. You can then say no when the attendant offers you a plastic glass full of water and ice.
Instead of accepting the plastic tray laden with plastic-wrapped everything, purchase food in the airport that is minimally packaged.
Take your trash off the plane and dispose of it in the recycling bins usually provided in the airport. You might not want to take the remains of your dinner, but you could stash a few plastic cups in a bag to carry off. Every little bit helps.

Fortunately, some airlines are getting on board with green travel. Before you buy your plane ticket, research the greenest airlines.

On the Road

Following are some suggestions for how to reduce waste while you’re on the road.

Take along a collapsible insulated food bag. While traveling, fill it with food and drinks you’ve bought in local grocery stores. Instead of purchasing overpriced packaged foods at the rest stop cafés, you have the fixings for fresh sandwiches to enjoy at the nearby picnic tables.
Don’t leave home without your trusty Swiss Army knife to cut hunks of cheese from the unpackaged block you bought in the market, spread butter on your fresh baguette, and open your bottle of wine. Just make sure you pack the knife in your checked bag to avoid confiscation at security.

I still use—and treasure—the Swiss Army knife my dad bought me for my 18th birthday before I set off on my first solo trip to Europe.

On the Train

Travel green by taking the train as often as possible.

Also consider buying freshly made sandwiches with minimal packaging at delis in the train stations to take on board with you. Then you won’t need to buy the plastic-wrapped and painfully over-packaged food available in the dining cars and from the trolleys.

In the Car

Zipping around your chosen destination by car is not a green activity. We generally rent cars to transport paintings to exhibitions and because Gregg was a racing car driver in a past life (or at least he drives like one).

We enjoy the freedom, the independence, and the flexibility of car touring.

That said, we’re well aware of the environmental impact of car travel. Here are some suggestions to compensate.

Rent the smallest car that meets your needs. You’ll save gas and will find driving in small towns and villages easier.
Check out options for renting a hybrid car. Many providers, such as Hertz, rent hybrid cars.
When you’re driving, maintain a reasonable speed. On some freeways in the EU countries, particularly Germany, the speed limit is higher than you’re likely used to at home. But just because you can go fast doesn’t mean you should!

TIP: Always drive at or just below the speed limit. More times than I care to admit, we’ve received speeding tickets months after we arrived home. The fines are hefty. Also, never drive in the far left lane unless you are passing. Cars will come up behind you at dizzying speeds and flash their lights. Get out of the way!

Gregg Simpson standing in front of an orange rental car in Portugal. Driving is not green travel unfortunately. — Gregg with our rental car in Portugal

Staying Green: Accommodation

Travel green by staying in small, locally run hotels and bed-and-breakfasts that have the added bonus of directly helping the local economy.

Choosing Hotels

Consider hotels that advertise environmental policies and green initiatives. If two properties are comparable, choose the one that lists itself as a green hotel with initiatives such as recycling, rainwater harvesting, energy efficient lighting, and so on.

If possible, find hotels located in LEED Certified buildings and that are also certified green.

Housekeeping

These days, most hotels and guest houses ask that you hang up your towels if you don’t need them replaced. I don’t wash my towels every day at home, so why expect clean towels daily while on the road?

You’re also unlikely to have your sheets changed daily which is all to the good. If necessary, ask that your towels be changed every two or three days and your sheets weekly for long stays.

Here are other suggestions for traveling green:

In your room, reduce waste by avoiding the dreaded single-use coffee pods. Go to a café, order a real coffee that comes in a real coffee cup (not take-out!), and experience your destination like a local.
Leave the bottles of water for the next guest and avoid raiding the mini bar, with its tiny, eco-unfriendly bottles and cans. Keep a bottle of wine (screw top variety) or a few beers stashed in your food bag.
Bring your own shampoos and lotions in reusable bottles so you’re not tempted to use the single-use soaps and shampoos provided in some hotels. I like hotels that have large multi-use dispensers for shampoo and body wash. Unwrapping a soap to use once or twice knowing it will be chucked borders on criminal.
Pack a travel soap dish, preferably one made of recycled plastic, and put a big bar of soap in it. Chances are, the bar will last your entire trip. If you travel for 21 days, you save the landfill from 21 small bars of soap. That’s a lotta soap.

Back in the 1970s when I started traveling, I always packed my own soap dish because soap in hostels and even bed-and-breakfasts was unheard of. Time to go back to our former, eco-friendly ways!

Energy Use

In many hotels, the lights in hallways are turned off until you enter them. Back in the day, you had to grope for a light switch. Nowadays, most are equipped with motion sensors so the lights come on as soon as you walk into the hallway.

When you enter your room, you’ll generally find that the power is off. Put your room key card into the slot in the door to turn on the electricity. When you remove the card and leave the room, the power switches off again.

Just remember that if you want to charge your devices while you’re out, they won’t get, um, charged. I’ve been caught out on that more than once.

Also save energy by keeping the air conditioning at a reasonable level and taking short showers.

Home-Basing

Staying put is eco-friendly if you do actually stay put! However, home-basing can involve a considerable amount of driving if you decide to do all your local sightseeing by car.

When choosing a place to home-base, consider what sightseeing you’re planning on doing. If each day, you’ll be driving for hours, you may want to rethink the home-base idea. We choose to home-base when we know we’ll be staying put in the area for most of the time.

In general, you save both money and resources when you choose home-basing over point-to-point traveling. You also benefit the local economy by shopping in local markets and eating in local restaurants and cafés.

Recycling

Most hotel rooms provide recycling bins. Help out housekeeping by sorting your trash into the appropriate bins.

A big advantage of staying in apartments or houses when you travel is that some of your trash can be recycled. We’ve been surprised to discover that many European countries offer fewer recycling options than we have at home. You’ll always find places to recycle wine bottles, but sometimes that’s about it.

Row of brightly colored recyling containers; travel green by using them. — Consider yourself lucky if you find this many recycling options in the community you’re visiting

In an apartment or house, you’re able to focus on the reduce and reuse parts of the Reduce, Reuse, Recycle trifecta.

Exploring Green: Sightseeing

With a bit of planning, green sightseeing is not only possible but also pleasurable. Here are my suggestions.

Walking Tours

Instead of opting for the gas-guzzling Hop-On, Hop-Off bus tours (which do have their place), consider joining walking tours to explore new cities.

I’m a huge fan of walking tours! Your carbon footprint is almost nil, you learn lots of quirky and intriguing things, you see places you’d never see from a bus, and you’re likely to meet some interesting fellow travelers.

I enjoy walking tours geared to specific interests, such as theater or art or architecture. Search for walking tours online. Many are free, although you are expected to tip the guide.

Here are a few cool-looking artsy walking tours of Paris that you can book through GuruWalks, and they have plenty more in other cities worldwide. I’ve taken some of their tours and highly recommend them.

Bike Rentals

Cycling’s the way to sightsee in many places, particularly cycle-friendly cities like Amsterdam and Copenhagen. Take advantage of cycle stations to rent a bike for an hour or longer.

If you’re really ambitious, consider ditching cars and trains altogether in favor of a cycling or walking holiday. Many countries have vast networks of cycling trails to explore.

Bikes on a bridge, Amsterdam; cycling is green travel at its finest! — Bikes on a bridge, Amsterdam

Coming soon: Guest posts on cycling and walking holidays in Europe!

Public Transit

Green travel and public transit go hand in hand.

Instead of hailing a taxi, hop on a bus. If you’re not sure how to purchase tickets, ask at your hotel. Bus tickets are usually available at local convenience stores or at kiosks near the bus stops.

Subways are easier to use because you buy your tickets from kiosks in the subway and have access to large fixed maps—often color-coded and interactive—to figure out your route. Subways also get you from A to B quickly.

But let’s face it. You don’t travel to stare at other people’s armpits in hot, dark, sweaty subways. I used to favor subways because they were easier to figure out, but lately, I’ve made the effort to understand and use the local bus system, especially in big cities like Paris and London.

You get to relax and watch the world go by. If you’re in London, rattle along on the top level where you’ll enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the crowds surging below. Subways may be fast and efficient, but busses are fun.

Double-decker red bus in London; taking busses is green travel — Double decker bus in London

TIP: On most European busses, stamp your ticket in the machine when you board the bus and again when you get off. Watch the locals to see what they do and then do the same. Usually some kind soul will help you. You’ll quickly get the hang of bus travel, and then you’re set for some awesome sightseeing—and helping other newbies!

Taxis and Ubers

I’m not saying never take taxis or ubers. I usually take a taxi from the train station to my hotel unless the hotel is super close. I’m not keen on wrangling my suitcase—mid-size though it is—on and off a local bus when I’ve just arrived in a place and don’t yet know the lay of the land.

And definitely take taxis or ubers when your safety or health may be compromised by walking or taking public transit.

On a recent trip to Amsterdam, we emerged from a fabulous lunchtime concert at the Concertgebouw (great artsy sightseeing thing to do – see the Netherlands page) and into a streaming rain. At first, we thought we’d save money and brave the rain for the entire 20-minute walk back to our bed-and-breakfast (a fabulous place on the Herengracht).

After two minutes of walking, I was struck by a Sensible Thought. Walking home might save the planet and our money, but at what cost? It was the second day of a six-week trip to Europe. Both of us are, um, not young.

If one or both of us came down with a cold, we’d be doomed to days of misery.

I weighed that sobering possibility against the cost of a taxi (about 15 euros, as it turned out), and stuck out my arm to flag down a fortuitously passing cab.

Comfort over budget!

Note that Uber is not active in all European cities, but you will find taxi apps most places. In Athens, for example, Uber went directly to a taxi service. The benefit of using an uber over a taxi is that you know in advance the cost of the trip.

Museums and Concerts

Unless you can read the language, refuse the programs offered at concerts. Why waste paper when all you’ll do is look at the pictures?

In museums, leave the paper maps at the information desk and download the museum’s app. Small museums may not have apps, but large museums, such as the Louvre, National Gallery, and Rijksmuseum, do.

I’m really into using these apps when I tour a museum. I can usually find a particular painting more quickly via the app than by staring at maps that are often confusing.

Picture of a QR code in a museum; using apps in museums is good green travel. — Check to see if a museum has an app to use instead of a paper guide

Guidebooks

Load guidebooks onto your e-reader, Smartphone, or tablet. Some guidebooks, such as those by Rick Steves, also include helpful audio apps for visiting specific sites.

I enjoyed listening to Rick Steves explain the Sistine Chapel to me on a recent visit, although I did get a crick in my neck.

Another useful app for finding your way around is Google Maps. Use this app to find local restaurants and check reviews. No more carrying around a paper guidebook!

And if you do take a guidebook, take only the portions you need for your trip.

Before every trip to Europe, I buy one or more guidebooks (usually Rick Steves – I’m a big fan as you’ve probably guessed) and cut out the sections I want. I reduce my luggage weight (okay, not by much but every little bit counts), and I don’t have to carry a whole book with me on my daily meanderings.

Tour Operators

Pay attention to information on the tour operator’s website about sustainable travel initiatives and other environmental activities.

Also, seek out independent local guides. You’ll gain plenty of personal insights about the destination while also supporting the local economy.

Buying Green: Shopping

Say No to Receipts

Unless you’re traveling for business and your accountant wants you to keep paper receipts, either say no to receipts or have them emailed if the option is offered. All those bitty bits of paper add up, only to eventually be thrown away.

An exception is when you need a receipt to claim the V.A.T. refund at the airport before you leave for home. Learn more about tax-free savings and getting V.A.T. refunds on sales taxes in this articl e.

Shop Local

One of my favorite things about traveling is shopping at local markets for fresh food. The packaging is usually less than in supermarkets, and the quality is often higher. You also get to interact with local people and even try out a few words of the local language—at least please and thank you and a few numbers!

Deux tomates, s’il vous plaît!

Shopping Bags

Gregg and I have a thing about shopping bags. At the beginning of every trip, we buy a cloth bag or two in the local supermarket, use them throughout our trip, and then bring them home.

Every time we go shopping at home, we pull out one of the bags we bought while traveling and enjoy memories of our trip. One of the bags we bought is stamped with photographs of Fayence in the south of France which always make me smile. It’s the small things that make life worth living!

Souvenirs

Avoid buying the cheap plastic souvenirs that clutter up most gift shops. The majority are not made locally and just add to clutter. Instead, focus on purchasing a few locally made, useful souvenirs.

In Portugal, for example, buy a high-quality purse made from cork (I love cork) instead of a plastic rooster statue. Roosters are a thing in Portugal.

Selection of cork products; buying locally-made products is a green travel thing to do. — Selection of cork products in Portugal –a practical souvenir

I get more pleasure out of products that I can use when I get home compared to figurines and knick-knacks that just sit on a shelf, crying out for a dusting that never comes.

When you buy locally made crafts and artwork, you also support local artisans and artists—a very Artsy Traveler (and green!) thing to do.

Another green travel option is to take a picture of a souvenir. You keep the memory and you help save the planet at the same time. Win win!

But I do have one caveat and that is fridge magnets! Yes, they are tacky, probably not made locally, and ubiquitous. I use to turn up my nose at them. But lately, I’ve taken to picking up a fridge magnet to remind me of a cool destination or, even better, a favorite work of art. A fridge magnet is cheap, easy to carry, and colorful. Every time I open my fridge, I get to admire my growing collection of fridge magnets that remind me of our trips.

So yeah, I make an exception for fridge magnets!

Being Green: Personal Products

Skin Care

Purchase eco-friendly sunscreens and insect repellants, particularly when you’ll be swimming in protected waters or eco-sensitive environments.

Packing

Consider packing light. I favor a mid-size suitcase, but I acknowledge the benefits of traveling with a carry-on size bag. With a small bag, you’ll likely take fewer taxis and walk more. Check out my packing suggestions here.

Gadgets

Whenever possible, purchase rechargeable batteries for battery-operated gadgets, such as your camera.

Eating Green: Food

Restaurants

Many countries are getting on board with plant-based cuisines. Back in the day, when it came to meal time, traveling in many parts of the world could be tough for vegetarians and almost impossible for vegans. Fortunately, this situation is rapidly changing. In cities, you’ll almost always find restaurants with excellent vegetarian and vegan options.

Select dishes that are locally sourced whenever possible. Ask your server for suggestions. Choosing small, “mom-and-pop” restaurants instead of large chains full of tour groups is generally a good and green thing to do and far more interesting!

Straws

Tuck one of those fancy new reusable stainless-steel straws in your purse or backpack and forgo disposable plastic straws.

Coffee

Avoid buying take-out coffee. You’re on vacation! Get your coffee in a proper cup, pull up a chair in a sidewalk café, and watch the world go by.

Conclusion

Make finding new ways to travel green a fun part of your trip.

Every time you use your own soap and leave the packaged soap unopened, or buy a slab of cheese wrapped in paper from a market, or take a walking tour, or choose a small hybrid car over a gas-guzzling SUV, you’re doing your part to help keep our beautiful planet healthy and safe for future generations.

Happy traveling!

Do you have suggestions for traveling green? Please share them in the comments.

For more Travel Smart tips, check these posts:

Testing Travel to Europe as COVID Restrictions Ease by Guest Poster Julie H. Ferguson

May 3, 2022October 15, 2024Travel Smart carolcram 1 Comment

Last updated on October 15th, 2024 at 12:21 am

With COVID restrictions starting to ease around the world, intrepid travel writer and photographer–and new Artsy Traveler guest poster–Julie H. Ferguson decided to take the plunge and fly to Europe after two years of staying home. What were the COVID restrictions? How did she adapt? What was it like to fly again? Read Julie’s answers to these questions and more!

Written by Julie H. Ferguson for Artsy Traveler

On March 13, 2022, clutching a supply of high-quality masks, tamping down some anxiety, and grinning broadly, I boarded the first of four flights to begin my trial.

I couldn’t help wondering how safe international travel would be for a seventy-six-year-old after the two-year COVID hiatus. Was Portugal the safest country to visit? What if I caught COVID while I was away?

For months, I’d followed the COVID stats and studies, as well as the opinions of infectious disease specialists so I could analyze my risk when countries began to ease travel restrictions. Perhaps Spring 2022 was the moment before the world began to travel like crazy.

Could I beat the rush?

Why I Chose Portugal to Test Travel

For me, traveling to Europe at this time was a more sensible option than traveling to remote destinations such as the Sahara or Zimbabwe that I usually favor. In February, I selected Portugal. It has one of the highest vaccination rates in the world and at the time of my visit still maintained a mask mandate for indoor public spaces. The latter has since been lifted.

I was triple vaxxed and healthy. I also knew that Portugal had a good health care system, so I booked flights and accommodations a month before flying to Lisbon for my five-week trip.

Monument to the Discoveries in Lisbon, Portugal; outdoor sightseeing is safe and fun as COVID restrictions start to ease. — Monument to the Discoveries in Lisbon, Portugal © Photos by Pharos (Julie H. Ferguson)

Easing COVID Restrictions in Portugal

Portugal proved a delight. Instead of using crowded trains and buses to tour the country, I decided that a rental car would reduce my risk. I also opted for two timeshares and chain hotels rather than Airbnbs, which I usually prefer.

The Portuguese were cheerfully masked inside, everywhere was clean, and my accommodations were spotless. Taxis (which I used in Lisbon and Porto) had a partition between the driver and passenger.

Prices were lower than in other European cities, particularly for food, wine, and taxis. And although the weather was unseasonably cool, I spent most days outside even when eating so I felt safer.

Outdoor table with food - french fries, whole fish, mussels, bottle of beer. Traveling to Europe in the age of COVID means lots of outdoor meals. — Al fresco seafood lunch in Portugal © Photos by Pharos (Julie H. Ferguson)

Flying in Spring 2022 as COVID Restrictions Ease

Air travel was good despite full planes. The timing of my trip meant that the requirement to be tested outbound had ended for Portugal, although all the airlines I used required me to show the Canadian vaccination certificate for three shots and to wear a mask on board.

I was not particularly worried about the risk in planes because ventilation and the HEPA filters are excellent.

I did find the big airports in Toronto, Frankfurt, and Lisbon a mite stressful despite their mask mandates. Each one was as busy as they were before the pandemic, but I still didn’t need the recommended three hours before international flights to negotiate check-in and security.

Social distancing was often impossible while standing in immigration and security lines, and waiting in departure lounges and baggage claim areas. Calgary airport, by contrast, was quiet and fast both leaving and returning.

Coming Home Safely to Canada

While I was away, Canada ended its COVID testing requirement for re-entry for vaccinated citizens. As a result, getting home was easy with just the ARRIVECan app to complete before departure.

Once home, I isolated for five days so I wouldn’t infect anyone here if I had caught COVID en route. I can report that I had not.

I continue to keep current with the COVID situation overseas because it makes sense to know what I may be getting into when I travel next.

Where to Next?

I’m booked to go on an Arctic expedition in August that has been cancelled twice. I’m so excited! After this test trip to Europe, I feel confident in my ability to avoid COVID while traveling by air and sea.

Read about Julie H. Ferguson on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page. Here are some other contributions from guest posters to help you with your travel planning:

Hidden Gem: Santa Maria del Popolo in Rome by Andie Easton
Camino Journal: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela by Elizabeeth Petrie
Discover Lyon–Friendly, Vibrant & Very French by Liz Reding

Have you traveled to Europe in 2022? Share your stories about coping with COVID restrictions in the comments below.

Ten Charming Hotels in Europe I Recommend

February 16, 2022May 6, 2022Travel Smart carolcram 1 Comment

Last updated on May 6th, 2022 at 04:08 am

Over the years, I’ve stayed in many charming, family-run hotels in Europe. Most are small, boutique-style places, and none are particularly expensive.

I’ve chosen family-run (or at least small) hotels in Austria, France, Italy, the Netherlands, Portugal, and Spain. Limiting this list to ten was challenging, because, over the years, we’ve stayed in some pretty charming family-run, boutique-style places.

Pin with the text 10 Charming Boutique Hotels in Europe

You’ll quickly find that Europe has more than its fair share of cool accommodation options!

For advice on choosing memorable hotels, see my post on 6 Steps to Finding Awesome Accommodation in Europe.

I start in Austria and proceed through France, Italy, Portugal, and Spain. If you wish to book accommodation at any of the places described, click the link to go directly to the hotel’s page on booking.com. I earn a small commission if you make a booking.

Austria

Gutshof zum Schluxen – a Boutique Hotel in the Tyrol

The charming Gutshof zum Schluxen is located just over the border from Füssen in Germany and not far from the famous “Mad Ludwig” castle, otherwise known as Neuschwanstein Castle. To find the place, you’ll need your GPS to guide you along country roads to the hamlet of Unterpinswang which is just beyond Pinswang and nestled in a valley ringed by the Tyrolean alps.

Pull into the spacious parking lot surrounded by horse-dotted fields. Minutes later, you’re greeted by the friendly, lederhosen-clad owner.

Gutshof zum Schluxen is a family-run, boutique-style hotel in Austria. This image shows the exterior of the hotel. — Exterior of Gutshof zum Schluxen

The author Carol Cram sitting on the terrace at the Gutshof zum Schluxen in Austria — On the sunny terrace at the hotel

Interior of a double room at the Gutshof zum Schluxen in Austria — Our room

This small, family-run hotel, built in 1853 and renovated in 2014, is exactly what you imagine a Tyrolean inn would be, complete with wooden furniture, mountain views, hearty food, and beer served on an outdoor terrace.

We stayed only one night while en route to Italy, but I’d love to go back and settle in for longer. Many of the people staying at the Gutshof zum Schluxen were exploring the hiking trails in the area.

The inn offers a nightly dinner of good, filling Tyrolean food. I chose spaetzle and a delicious beer. After dinner, with the valley still bathed in golden light, we walked along the trail that leads to Neuschwanstein Castle.

You can hike to the Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau Castles in about an hour or cycle there in 30 minutes. To drive takes just 15 minutes. Linderhof Castle is a 45-minute drive away.

We slept well on comfy beds after our dinner and walk. Check out options for staying at the Gutshof zum Schluxen.

Charming Hotels in France

Small, family-run, boutique-style hotels surrounded by gorgeous scenery are thick on the ground in France.

I chose two of the many dozens we’ve stayed at to feature here: Les Sables d’Ocre outside of Roussillon in Provence, and the Château de la Vénerie, an honest-to-goodness château in the Champagne region about 40 kilometers north of Lyon.

Les Sables d’Ocre–A Family Favorite Hotel Near Roussillon

We discovered this place in the heart of the Luberon Natural Park in 1999 and have returned a few times. It’s a family favorite and the subject of one of the pieces (Monsieurs) in Pastel & Pen, a non-collaborative collaboration of Gregg’s drawings and my writing.

Les Sables d’Ocre sets the bar for what a country-style, family-run, low-key, easy-on-the-budget place should be.

With its Provençal decor and airy rooms, many with private terraces, Les Sables d’Ocre is a marvelous place to relax. Stretch out on loungers by the pool on the one-hectare grounds overlooking a typical Provence landscape.

Another thing I like about this hotel is its proximity to the village of Roussillon. You can walk there in about 15 minutes.

Roussillon

If you haven’t been to Roussillon in the Luberon region of Provence, put it on your list.

Of all the charming villages in the Luberon, including Gordes, Bonnieux, Menerbes, and Apt, I like Roussillon best.

Perched atop a hill with a commanding view of the Luberon, the village includes plenty of small shops selling authentic souvenirs, such as local ceramics and scented soaps. You can never have too many bars of lavender soap, in my opinion!

Village of Roussillon, near Les Sables d'Ocre — Roussillon village sunset view, Provence, France

But what sets Roussillon apart from its sister villages in the Luberon are the stunning ochre cliffs. Go in the late afternoon when the light is perfect for photography.

You can walk to the cliffs from Les Sables d’Ocre.

Ochre hill in Roussillon, France — Ochre hill in Roussillon

Ochre landscape at Roussillon in Provence, France

If you decide to stay at the Les Sables d’Ocre, spring for the Privilege Room with Terrace. You’ll have your own private outdoor space and be steps from the pool.

The Luberon is also lavender central. If you travel to the Luberon from the end of June to the beginning of August, drive into the hills to view vast fields of purple lavender.

Lavender field in the Luberon region of southern France

Château de la Vénerie, Denicé

On our way north from Provence to Paris, we broke our trip about 40 kilometers north of Lyon at the spectacular Château de la Vénerie.

I’d always wanted to stay in a château but had mistakenly thought such luxury was out of my price range. Thankfully, I was wrong.

For the same price we’d pay for a run-of-the-mill three-star hotel, we enjoyed a massive room at the Château de la Vénerie where we were the only guests.

Below is our bedroom. The bathroom was almost as large!

Bedroom at the Château de la Vénerie, France — Our bedroom at the Château de la Vénerie

The château has been owned by the same family for generations which, as a history buff, I was fascinated to learn. The proprietor’s English was on par with my French, but we managed to have a reasonably coherent bilingual chat over breakfast about the château and its history.

Château de la Vénerie, France — Château de la Vénerie

Visit the Château de la Vénerie for a relaxing, history-steeped experience.

Charming Hotels in Italy

Hotel Pescille

Located a few kilometers south of San Gimignano with a killer view over the valley, the Hotel Pescille is in the running for my fave hotel in all of Europe (or at least the parts I’ve visited).

I keep returning to the three-star, reasonably-priced Hotel Pescille for its simple but comfortable rooms, its fabulous location in the Tuscan countryside, and its rustic indoor and outdoor public spaces.

The walls in the common areas are decorated with farm implements, and ceramic pumpkins adorn niches and stairwells.

On our most recent trip, we took several walks near the hotel to admire the view.

Author Carol Cram in the Tuscan countryside with the town of San Gimignano in the background — San GImignano!

If you’re visiting San Gimignano and you’re traveling by car, consider staying at the Hotel Pescille. I recommend spending a little extra (it’s really not much extra) to get a room overlooking the stunning town of San Gimignano. The last time we stayed, our room included a small balcony.

Hotel Emilia

High on a hill overlooking the fabled Adriatic Sea, the Hotel Emilia is a spectacular choice if you’re exploring the Marches region along the east coast of Italy.

Located in the countryside about 11 kilometers south of Ancona, the family-run, 4-star Hotel Emilia is close to the Conero National Park and overlooks the tiny beach town of Portonovo. In the summer months, a shuttle takes you from the hotel to the beach where you can dip your toes into the Adriatic.

We visited in May and were able to swim in the pool, but the beach action wasn’t happening yet. We did have an amazing meal at a restaurant right on the beach in Portonovo.

A lovely feature of the Hotel Emilia are the modern sculptures dotted around the extensive grounds and the large library of art books in the common area.

Panoramic view of the Adriatic from the Hotel Emilia, one of the charming hotels we stayed in — View from the Hotel Emilia

Breakfasts were fabulous, the rooms with private terraces overlooking the view comfortable, and the staff friendly.

Book a room at the Hotel Emilia.

Hotel Athena, Siena

This is a wonderful choice located just inside the city walls of Siena. Drive up the hill to the Porta Laterina, then nip through the arched gateway and hang a sharp right to arrive at the Athena Hotel.

When you’re visiting Siena, you do not want to drive more than a few feet past one of the city gates. Not only might you get a stiff fine, but also you’ll likely get hopelessly lost and scrape the paint job on your car in the narrow streets.

The rooms at the Athena Hotel are large and the views over the countryside spectacular. The hotel offers free parking (always a bonus!), an elegant Italian restaurant, and a furnished terrace with views of the town and the surrounding valley.

From the hotel, we walked just ten minutes to reach the Campo and the center of Siena.

Spend a little extra to get a room at the Hotel Athena with a view like the one below. I took this picture from the parking lot just below the hotel. Pretty nice!

Netherlands

Mokum Suites, Amsterdam

Amsterdam is not a budget city. You’ll pay a lot for a mediocre hotel room in a nondescript area and even more if the hotel is in the Canal Ring, also known as the Centrum.

I suggest you increase your budget and book a well-reviewed, small hotel on one of the long, leafy canals, such as Prinsengracht, Keizersgracht, Herengracht, or Singel. Staying on the outskirts is less expensive, but you’re doomed to long tram rides, and you won’t be able to stroll along moonlit canals right outside your front door.

By far, our favorite place in Amsterdam is Mokum Suites overlooking the Herengracht canal and near the Rembrandtplein. From your suite, watch the canal boats slide past.

View of Tuscan countryside from the window of our room at the Hotel Athena in Siena, one of Europe's charming hotels — View from the Hotel Athena in Siena

Although expensive (we paid €350 a night in May), accommodation at the Mokum Suites costs considerably less than a regular hotel. The house contains two suites in addition to a common area on the ground floor that includes a fridge and cooking facilities.

Your room rate also includes breakfast at a local café.

I highly recommend Mokum Suites both for its location and for the quality of the accommodations. We’ll stay there again.

The architecture of Amsterdam and its iconic canals near Mokum Suites

Portugal

Monte da Fornalha, Estremoz

One of our favorite country hotels on all our travels is the Monte da Fornalha, a few kilometers outside Estremoz–a white-washed hill town in the historic and scenic Alentejo region. This region is sometimes referred to as the Tuscany of Portugal.

Cityscape of Estremoz, the White City in Alentejo region, Portugal. Vines in the foregrund.

Surrounded by cork trees and cows, the rural property has simple rooms, fabulous breakfasts, and a tiled pool that even on the hottest days in July was refreshing enough to raise goosebumps.

If you’re in the Estremoz area, consider staying at the Monte da Fornalha for a few days to totally relax and soak up the Alentejo beauty.

Entrance to the Monte da Fornalha, a charming hotel in Europe — Entrance to the Monte da Fornalh

Cork tree forests in the Alentejo — Cork trees with freshly crumbled bark in Portugal

Spain

Hotel Cortijo-las-Piletas

On our trip to Europe in 2019, we opted to stay in the countryside about a 15-minute drive from Ronda, and we’re glad we did.

The weather was hot, and we needed a place to chill out. The Hotel Cortijo-las-Piletas fit the bill perfectly. The hotel even provided an excellent dinner served in the courtyard on one of the evenings we were there.

Courtyard at the HJotel Cortijo-las-Piletas, a charming hotel in Spain — Courtyard at the HJotel Cortijo-las-Piletas

The proprietor of this family-run hotel was exceedingly friendly and accommodating. She handles the guests, and her husband cooks the dinners. I can’t recommend this place highly enough.

Book a room at Hotel Cortijo-las-Piletas.

Barceló Monasterio de Boltaña Spa

We were very happy to pull into this amazing place in the charming town of Boltaña after a harrowing drive in a torrential rainstorm across the Pyrenees from France.

If you’re in the vicinity of the Pyrenees, find and stay at the Barceló Monasterio de Boltaña Spa. It’s a five-star establishment with three-star prices and serious luxury. I wish we could have stayed for a week.

In my travels, I’ve never seen a bigger bed than the Emperor-sized one placed regally in the middle of our cavernous room. At least six monks could have slept there comfortably, maybe seven if they were malnourished.

As the name suggests, the Barceló Monasterio de Boltaña Spa includes a remarkable spa, a large and deliciously refreshing outdoor pool, and a gourmet restaurant. And did I mention the price? While not hostel-level, at just over €100 for our gorgeous double room, the prices are reasonable, considering the level of service and the beauty of the surroundings.

We’ve been known to pay a lot more for a lot less.

Carol Cram sitting in a comfortable chair in the courtyard of a charming hotel in Spain — Ready for dinner at the Barceló Monasterio de Boltaña Spa

I treated myself to a morning in the spa and, OMG! I’ve experienced a few spas in my time but never one as fancy and as varied as the spa at the Barceló Monasterio de Boltaña Spa. The spa features:

“Aguas del Ara” Spa Circuit
Large hydrotherapy pool with hot springs
Counter-current swimming unit
Oxygenating bubble beds
Three different-temperature cloverleaf-shaped hot tubs
Turkish bath
Roman bath
Ordesa rain shower room
Sensory showers with aromatherapy

I spent an hour completely alone in the spa–just me and a lot of bubbling, pummeling water. Heaven!

Go to the Pyrenees and consider staying at the Barceló Monasterio de Boltaña Spa.

Conclusion

To find more of my recommended accommodations in Europe, take a look at posts for individual countries including:

Have you stayed in a place that you’d recommend to other artsy travelers? Please share your experiences in the Comments section below.

How to Travel and Stay Healthy in Europe

March 4, 2020October 23, 2024Travel Smart carolcram 1 Comment

Last updated on October 23rd, 2024 at 04:25 am

Staying healthy while traveling in Europe requires more vigilance than you exercise at home. You’ll come into contact with thousands of people, often in close quarters, and be exposed to millions of germs.

And if you work from home like I do, you’re at even greater risk of getting sick while traveling. Your system is likely not exposed to the variety of germs you’ll encounter when you travel to Europe.

This post presents some common sense guidelines for how to stay healthy while traveling in Europe–and what to do if you need a doctor. Spoiler alert: Seeing a doctor in Europe is surprisingly easy, at least in my experience.

Good Hygiene for Staying Healthy in Europe

Be Vigilant About Hand-Washing

I know—what else is new? But when you’re traveling, hand-washing is even more important than it is when you’re at home. Not touching your face and keeping your hands clean can help prevent the spread of germs and infectious diseases. The current guideline is to wash your hands for 20 seconds with soap and water.

Wet your hands, leave the water running, soap up and then wash your hands while singing Happy Birthday twice. Rinse your hands, then dry them with a paper towel. Use the paper towel to turn off the water and to open the bathroom door.

Close up of hands being washed -- clean hands contribute to healthy travel in Europe — Frequent hand washing helps prevent getting sick.

In a public washroom, you may want to sing under your breath. Or take a stab at singing it in the local language and maybe make some new friends or at least attract some smiles.

Finding Washrooms in Europe

As soon as you get to a restaurant and before you reach for the bread sticks, find the washroom and wash your hands. Take time to learn how to ask, “Where is the toilet?” in the language of the country you’re traveling in.

Or just raise your eyebrow at the server, smile ruefully and cock your head politely toward the back of the restaurant. The server will know what you want and steer you in the right direction.

That said, avoid public washrooms as much as possible, particularly the coin-operated, telephone-booth type WC on street corners. In a pinch, you may have no choice, but if you can, wait until you get back to your hotel room.

Self-cleaning public toilet cabin — Public toilets – useful in a pinch!

For an entertaining and detailed look at toilets in Europe, check out this article by Rick Steves.

Take Alcohol Wipes or Hand Sanitizer

Stash several packets of alcohol wipes in your day pack or handbag. When you get to Europe, look for the European versions in pharmacies and large supermarkets.

Purchasing these kinds of products in Europe is always interesting because you often end up with products that are different from what you’re used to and are work just as well or better.

Keep Safe on the Plane

I’ve taken to wiping down my tray table on the plane in recent years. I never used to, which is probably why I usually caught a cold within the first few days of arriving in Europe.

I also recently read that the seat pocket in front of you is NEVER cleaned which means it’s probably a ninth-grade science experiment. You don’t want to think about it.

Resist the temptation to stash your book or laptop in the seat pocket. Keep a small bag with you at your seat for storing the stuff you need during the flight.

You should also wipe down the seat belt and buckle, the remote control, the TV screen, and the headrest.

Accommodation Tips for Staying Healthy in Europe

Inspect Hotel Rooms Carefully

Unfortunately, hotel rooms can be notoriously filthy even if they look clean. Although I don’t think it helps to get too paranoid in our post-COVID world, check for obvious signs of dirt such as poorly cleaned bathroom fixtures, stained carpets, and musty bedding. If the place is really awful, leave.

A pervading smell of bug spray is another clue that you might want to find a different place.

Also, even in “good” hotels, bedspreads and decorative pillows are rarely washed. Be sure to remove the bedspread before sitting on the bed and don’t cuddle up to the pillows.

Another germ-laced object in hotel rooms is the TV universal remote control. Before using it, give it a good swab with an alcohol wipe.

Medications and First Aid to Keep You Healthy in Europe

Take Extra Medications

If you take prescription medications, bring along more than you think you’ll need for the duration of your trip. If you’re quarantined or otherwise delayed, you want to be sure to have enough medication.

Consider taking enough to last for at least four to six weeks beyond the duration of your trip.

Take a First Aid Kit

In addition to the usual first aid kit supplies (Band-Aids, tweezers, aspirins, etc.), take along a small bottle of Oil of Oregano or the cold remedy of your choice. At the first sign of a scratchy throat, take a dose or two.

First aid kit containing pills, thermometers, bandages - essential for healthy travel in Europe — Take along a good first aid kit

And then get thee to a European pharmacy pronto.

Staying Healthy Using European Pharmacies

Look for the illuminated green cross. In many European cities, you’ll find a pharmacy on every other block.

One of the great joys of traveling in Europe is discovering the quality of the pharmacies. Most are staffed with English-speaking health care professionals.

Buy Suggested Remedies at Pharmacies

Explain what’s wrong to the pharmacist. He or she will probably ask several detailed questions about your symptoms and health history. The remedies they recommend can be pricey, but in my experience they work well. Don’t stint!

Getting Medical Attention on the Road

Connect with a Local Doctor

Thanks to the Internet, it’s increasingly easy to find a doctor while traveling in Europe. I’ve consulted with doctors in Spain, Italy, and France, and all have been English-speaking and very helpful. Ask for a list of doctors at the local pharmacy or search online for “English-speaking doctors in [city]”.

In Madrid, I searched for “English-speaking doctors for travelers” and came up with several websites that catered to tourists in need of medical attention. I called one of them and literally within an hour, a doctor arrived at my hotel room. She examined me, gave me a shot, prescribed medications, and then whipped out her Visa machine. The cost was 150 Euros. I could have claimed it on my medical insurance, but with a deductible of $500, it wasn’t worth it. The doctor told me that a lot of her calls are to tend to tourists who are hungover after too much Madrid partying!

I paid for each visit I made to a doctor in Europe, but the cost was extremely reasonable (the 150 Euros in Madrid was the most expensive) and the care first rate. When you’re in need of a doctor in Europe, don’t wait! Go online, find a doctor or a service that caters to tourists and either call or book online.

Go to the Hospital if Needed

In a medical emergency, go directly to the hospital. I’ve heard from many travelers that the level of care is excellent. If whatever ails you can’t be fixed by a trip to the pharmacy or a visit to a local doctor, go to a hospital and ask for help.

Staying Healthy on the Road

Avoid Large Crowds at Attractions

When possible, avoid visiting attractions at peak times when crowds are at their thickest. Your best bet is to go first thing in the morning.

When you get to the Louvre as soon as it opens, you’ll not only avoid crowds and germs, you’ll also have the place to yourself. Imagine being the day’s first person who gets to see the Mona Lisa!

If you have a cold or are immune compromised, wearing a mask when out in crowds makes good sense.

Rent a Car

I know — it’s not the green thing to do, but driving in your own car could help keep you healthy. If you do travel by train, get out those alcohol wipes and ramp up your hand-washing routine.

Travel Healthy: Walk More & Use Transit Less

Being jammed next to someone who is coughing and sneezing when you have no room to get away is a recipe for disaster. Be conscious of crowds on public transit and whenever possible, walk or wait for the next bus or train that may be less crowded.

Older couple walking in a European city - Vienna — Enjoy walking in European cities.

You can mitigate some of the risk by avoiding traveling by public transit during rush hour times.

Take Lots of Reading Material

What if you get delayed because of a health scare or, heaven forbid, you get sick yourself? Take along an e-Reader loaded with several novels. For inspiration, check out some of the novels listed in these posts on Artsy Traveler:

If you’re not able to enjoy your destination in person, you can at least read about it.

Conclusion

Staying healthy while traveling in Europe is possible. Just like at home, you can avoid germs by taking sensible precautions. The good news is that health care in Europe is first rate.

Buy good travel insurance that includes health coverage and then relax. If you do get sick, you will be well taken care of.

Introduction

Interacting with Locals

1. Check Restaurant Reviews

Search Criteria

Make Reservations

Ask a Local for Recommendations

2. Seek Out Lesser-Known Museums

Lesser-Known Museums to Visit

3. Go to Art Openings

Finding Art Openings

4. Attend Local Concerts and Events

Tourist Concerts

5. Ride Public Transit

A Cautionary Tale

6. Shop for Food in Local Markets

Outdoor Markets

7. Take a Cooking Class

8. Go on a Walking Tour

9. Skip the Iconic Sites

10. Walk Away from the Crowds

Some of My Favorite Uncrowded European Sites

Conclusion

Introduction

Touring Europe: Is Summer Best?

Touring Europe in the Summer

Countries to Avoid in Summer

Countries to Consider in Summer

Countries to Choose in Summer

France

Austria, Switzerland, Germany and the Low Countries

United Kingdom

A Note About Garden Tours

Scandinavia

Summer At a Glance

Touring Europe: How About Fall?

Major Exhibitions

Concert Season

Manageable Crowds

Pleasant Weather

Fall At a Glance

Touring Europe: Winter Wonderland?

Winter At a Glance

Touring Europe: Spring is the Winner!

Tulips!

Spring At a Glance

A Note About Costs

Top Tips for Touring Europe

Conclusion

Copenhagen Accommodation in Nyhavn

Staying at Phoenix Copenhagen

Other Accommodation Options in Copenhagen

Copenhagen Tours & Tickets

Copenhagen Walking Tours

Other Posts about Copenhagen

How I Got Started with Travel Photography

My Photography Passion Expands

Exhibiting My Travel Photography

What Kind of Camera Should You Use?

My Travel Photography Tips

Travel Photography Tip 1: Keep it straight

Travel Photography Tip 2: Avoid fuzzy images

Travel Photography Tip 3: Find great light

Travel Photography Tip 4: Take great people shots

Travel Photography Tip 5: Apply effective composition principles

Travel Photograph Tip 6: Avoid shooting where you are standing

Travel Photography Tip 7: Practise often!

Editing Your Photographs

Lead-Up to Montepulciano

Arrival in Montepulciano

No Room at the Inn

Plan B

Success

On Our Way Again

Heaven at Sant’Antonio Country Resort: My Review

Our Accommodation at Sant’Antonio Country Resort

Memorable Dinners in Montepulciano

Enjoying Sant’Antonio Country Resort

Should You Visit Sant’Antonio Country Resort?

Tours of the Tuscan Countryside

Other Posts about Tuscany