Discover the Best of the Musée d’Orsay in Paris

What is the “best of the Musée d’Orsay”? What I think are the best pieces, and what others think are the best is pretty subjective! But I think every artsy traveler can agree that the Musée d’Orsay never disappoints, no matter how many times you walk through the grand hall on the main floor and ride the escalators to view the outstanding collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist art on the 5th floor.

The Musée d’Orsay is more than a must-see for the artsy traveler. It’s akin to a pilgrimage! It certainly ranks as one of my all-time-favorite European museums. In this post, I share some of my favorite pieces in the Musée d’Orsay.

Location of the Musée d’Orsay

The map below shows the location of the Musée d’Orsay (#1) in Paris. Also shown is the location of the Louvre (#2), the Cluny (#3), the Pompidou (#4), and that of the huge apartment we stayed in on rue de Sevres on the Left Bank (#5) during our week in Paris in September 2023. Although pricey, the apartment is excellent value because of its size and central location. Compared to a typical hotel room in Paris, it’s almost a bargain (not that bargain is an appropriate word for any accommodations in the center of Paris).

This map was created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Touring the Best of the Musée d’Orsay

The Musée d’Orsay is a converted railway station and as such, part of its attraction is the massive atrium that stretches the length of the museum and is filled with light and sculptures. Long galleries run either side of the atrium and contain mostly academic paintings from the 19th century. Some of these rooms are skippable, unless you’re a fan of the overly florid, heroic style popular during the mid-19th century. However, make sure you pop into the galleries to the left that include several masterpieces by Courbet and Millais.

Most visitors head for the far end of the atrium and take a series of escalators to the fifth floor where they find room after room of works by all the late-19th century biggies–Manet, Monet, Renoir, van Gogh, Morisot, and more.

In the following round-up of some of my favorite works in the Musée d’Orsay, I present works according to artist rather than the order in which you’ll encounter them while walking through the museum. All of the works mentioned are in the collection on the fifth floor.

Edouard Manet

The Musée d’Orsay includes several iconic pieces by Edouard Manet in its collection. I zeroed in on two of them as representative of my favorite aspects of his work. I like the way he flattens the planes and uses a fairly neutral palette. Even bright colors such as red and blue have gray undertones. Manet’s work always seems much more understated than the work of some of his contemporaries like Monet and especially Renoir.

Sur la Plage by Manet

Manet’s wife and brother sit on the beach—she is reading and he is staring out at the boats sailing along the English Channel. By making the sky take up a very small percentage of the painting, the focus is on the beach itself and the figures. Manet’s sketchy, fluid brushstrokes makes the scene look like a snapshot in time, as though at any moment the figures will shift position.

Sur la Plage by Manet at the Musèe d’Orsay in Paris

Dejeuner sur l’herbe by Manet

I’m not alone in loving this piece, which has been reproduced countless times and analyzed within an inch of its life. Manet painted it in 1863 and included it in the Salon des Refusés along with other artists who were excluded from the Salon (the exhibition of all the accepted painters of the day). Manet’s large painting shocked critics and the public because it represented such a marked departure from the academic tradition of only depicting mythological figures as nudes. In this painting, there is a naked woman next to two men wearing modern dress. She looks brazenly out at the viewer as if to dare them to be shocked. The work was deemed to be obscene not only because of its subject matter but because of its loose brushstrokes, contempt for the rules of perspective, and violent contrasts. Nowadays, we consider it a masterpiece, and it is certainly arresting.

Dejeuner sur l'herbe by Manet at the Musèe d’Orsay in Paris

Paul Gauguin

Gauguin’s paintings always make me smile. He combines bright colors in sometimes startling ways and depicts his figures and his landscapes with a flattened perspective that gives them a pleasing immediacy, as though they could easily step out of the canvas. Gauguin’s work is exhibited alongside several other painters of the Pont-Aven School. On our 2023 trip to Europe, we headed to Pont-Aven after we left Paris, mostly because Gregg is fascinated by the work that was done there by painters such as Gauguin, Bernard, and Sérusier, and wanted to be inspired by the same landscape that inspired them.

Paysage de Bretagne by Gauguin

This beautiful landscape of a typical scene in Brittany practically glows. The red and orange bushes on the mid-section contrast intensely with the blue sky and bright green foreground.

Paysage de Bretange by Gauguin at the Musèe d’Orsay in Paris

La Belle Angèle by Gauguin

Gauguin completed this portrait of Marie-Angélique Satre in 1889. He depicts the woman in traditional dress in a composition reminiscent of both Japanese prints and medieval stained-glass windows. Perhaps as a nod to his Peruvian heritage (his mother was born in Peru), Gauguin includes a Peruvian-inspired piece of pottery next to his model.

La Belle Angele by Gauguin at the Musèe d’Orsay in Paris

Émile Bernard

Bernard was another painter in the Pont-Aven School. Called Les Bretonnes aux ombrelles, this striking depiction of Breton women wearing traditional dress shows how Bernard, as a post-impressionist, ignored perspective, instead filling both the foreground and the background with his figures, bringing them into prominence. I’m reminded of medieval paintings where the figures take precedence over perspective.

Bretonnes aux ombrelles by Emile Bernard from the Pont-Aven school at the Musèe d’Orsay in Paris

Paul Sérusier

Another member of the Pont-Aven School, Sérusier has become one of my faves from this period. His work almost borders on abstraction and I love how he uses color.

Le champ de blé d’or et de sarrasin by Sérusier

This golden field takes up almost the entire painting, with just a bit at the top for the sky. I feel like I could walk straight into it and be instantly enveloped in a riot of flowers.

Le champ de ble d’or et de sarrasin by Serusier at the Musèe d’Orsay in Paris

Tetrahedra by Sérusier

Painted around 1910, this piece showing floating objects in a formless space is part of a cycle of pictures by Sérusier that pushed the boundaries of Symbolism towards abstraction. Sérusier believed that geometric forms were sacred and in this painting he depicts his thinking on the origins of life and the universe. The chromatic range of colors progresses towards the light, passing from the coldest to the warmest shades. The painting is just a delight!

Tetrahedra by Serusier at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Vincent van Gogh

It’s never difficult to spot a painting by van Gogh in the Musée d’Orsay since there’s always a clutch of people holding cameras aloft in front it. There are several van Goghs—all fabulous—but I include here just two that I particularly love.

La Salle de danse à Arles by van Gogh

I was surprised to discover a painting by van Gogh that I’d never seen before. At first, I thought it was by Gauguin since the way the figures are depicted and the colors used remind me of his work. But nope – it’s van Gogh. What an energetic, lively piece this is! Van Gogh really captured the almost frenzied crush of people, the women wearing Arlesian headdresses, their expressions blank.

La Salle de danse à Arles by van Gogh at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

The Starry Night by van Gogh

Van Gogh painted a few versions of Arles on a starry night. This one is not quite as well known, but it’s still fabulous. Van Gogh worked by candlelight to complete a night view of Arles illuminated by gas lamps and the Great Bear constellation glittering in the sky.

Starry Night by van Gogh at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Henri Toulouse-Lautrec

Although Toulouse-Lautrec hailed from a wealthy family in Albi in the southwest of France, he became famous for his gritty depictions of real Parisians, many of whom were down on their luck, lonely, and marginalized. I’m particularly intrigued by two of his pieces depicting prostitutes.

Blonde prostitute, also known as Study for the Medical Inspection by Toulouse-Lautrec

The partially-clothed model is Gabrielle, a prostitute in a Parisian brothel. She’s getting ready to be inspected for venereal disease. Her expression could be interpreted as angry or stoic in the face of what must have been a very demeaning procedure.

Blonde prostitute, also known as Study for the Medical Inspection by Toulouse-Lautrec at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Woman Pulling Up Her Stocking by Toulouse-Lautrec

Toulouse-Lautrec was a frequent visitor to the brothels and was able to sketch the prostitutes in all manner of poses. This drawing shows an everyday act—pulling on stockings—under the watchful eye of the brothel’s Madame.

Woman Pulling Up her Stocking by Toulouse-Lautrec at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Maximilien Luce

This artist may not be as well known as many of the others in the collection, but this piece is a striking depiction of the violence that stalked Paris on and off throughout the 19th century. This particular scene shows the aftermath of Bloody Week (May 21 to 28, 1871) when the Paris Commune was brutally suppressed and hundreds of people were shot down in the streets.

Painting of dead bodies in the streets by Maximilien Luce at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Paul Signac

This gorgeous portrait of Signac’s wife uses very sharp contrasts between complementary colors: yellow with purple, and orange-red with green. It’s a very stylized composition that shares an affinity with Art Nouveau posters.

Portrait by Signac at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Berthe Morisot

I’ve long been a fan of Berthe Morisot and am delighted to discover several paintings that I hadn’t seen before on display at the Musée d’Orsay.

Les Deux Soeurs by Morisot

This painting depicts two dreamy-looking young girls  just emerging from adolescence. The blossoming hydrangea symbolizes their imminent emergence into womanhood. Morisot is considered by many (myself included) to be one of the most impressionist of the Impressionists. She uses very loose brushstrokes and almost abstract backgrounds to convey a real sense of immediacy. Her paintings look so fresh and alive. I like them so much more than works by painters such as Renoir that can look too over-worked and florid.

Les Deux Soeurs by Berthe Morisot at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Le Berceau by Morisot

This portrait of Morisot’s sister gazing at her newborn child is so tender and domestic. And the way Morisot conveys the sheerness of the fabric draped around the baby’s crib is incredible–again proving just how skilled (and under-appreciated) a painter she was.

Montagne Sainte-Victoire by Cezanne at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Paul Cézanne

Cézanne’s works are so redolent of the south of France that I can almost feel the heat coming off the canvases. His palette of warm greens and oranges perfectly captures the landscape around Aix-en-Provence.

Montagne Sainte-Victoire by Cézanne

Here’s one of many versions of Mont Sainte-Victoire near Aix-en-Provence. It’s such a bright, cheerful painting that perfectly captures the heat and space of one of France’s most beautiful landscapes.

Rochers près des grottes au-dessus du Château-Noir by Cézanne

In 2019, Gregg and I spent some time in the area around Aix-en-Provence where CUzanne painted this piece. It perfectly captures the profusion of rocks and dense foliage. No wonder painters who came after Cézanne credit him with being the father of Cubism.

Rochers près des grottes au-dessus du Château-Noir by Cezanne at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Claude Monet

One entire wall is taken up with five views of Rouen Cathedral that Monet painted at different times of day. Here are three of them.

Mary Cassatt

Cassatt joined the Impressionist group after moving to Paris from America in the 1870s. In this painting, she depicts the young girl, using very subtle white tones to stand out against the brightly colored background. While the clothing is almost sketched in, the face and hands are rendered with gorgeous precision.

Painting of a young girl by Mary Cassatt at the Musee d'Orsay in paris

Edgar Degas

Degas is most famous for his paintings of ballet dancers at the Paris Opera, and the Musée d’Orsay has several examples, including this one showing dancers practicing on stage. The figures are in various attitudes–some dancing, some stretching, one even scratching her back. Degas uses subtle tones and ethereal brushwork to convey filmy tutus and barely hinted-at expressions.

Dancers at the opera by Degas at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Auguste Renoir

I’m not a huge fan of most of Renoir’s work. He’s an important painter but I find his figures a little too florid. The exception is, for me, this piece called Dance at the Moulin de la Galette–perhaps his most famous work. It depicts the famous guinguette–an open-air drinking establishment with food and dancing–that was located at the foot of a former windmill on the Butte de Montmartre in Paris. The dance is attended by locals–workers, artists, regular folks. The play of light and shadow bring the painting to life, making the viewer feel like they could step in and take a turn around the dance floor.

 Dance at the Moulin de la Galette by August Renoir at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Gustave Caillebotte

I first saw and was entranced by this painting in the Musée d’Orsay several years ago. Its subject matter is so different from the other paintings in the collection. It’s not a portrait or a landscape, but instead a depiction of three working men (The Floor Scrapers) who are busily scraping a floor in a fine Haussmann-style apartment in Paris. Critics at the time condemned the painting’s subject matter as vulgar. Few would agree with that assessment nowadays! There is something so compelling about the concentration of the men and the way in which Caillebotte uses such a limited palette to convey so many tones of browns and grays. And check out how the light spills in from the window!

The Floor Scrapers by Gustave Caillebotte at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Love Among the Recipes at the Musée d’Orsay

After touring the Musée d’Orsay, I couldn’t resist taking a shot of Love Among the Recipes, my fourth novel (set in Paris), in front of the great clock. The Musée d’Orsay plays a role in the novel, with one of its most important scenes taking place on the 5th floor in front of a painting by Mary Cassatt!

Love Among the Recipes by Carol M. Cram in front of the clock at the Musees d'Orsay in Paris

Practical Information to Discover the Best of the Musée d’Orsay

The Musée d’Orsay can sell out so buy your tickets online at least a day or two before you plan to travel to Paris (possibly more during the busy summer months). Click one of the options below to purchase your ticket.

Tickets for Other Art Museums in Paris

Conclusion

If you’re an art lover, then I suggest making the Musée d’Orsay the first major art museum you visit in Paris, even more important then the Louvre. The Musée d’Orsay’s collection is smaller and much more accessible than the vast collection in the Louvre and the crowds are considerably smaller. A visit there is well worth several hours of your time on even the shortest visit to Paris.

Have you visited the Musée D’Orsay? What are some of your favorites? Share in the comments below.

Other Posts About Great Art Museums

Traveling in Central Spain: Best Destinations for the Artsy Traveler

Traveling in central Spain is a commitment! Distances are vast and destinations spread out. You will drive and drive and drive–and not see a whole heck of a lot. The journey by car from Zaragoza in the east to Toledo just south of Madrid took us about six hours.

Fortunately, the long drives are rewarded with lots of see in the four cities described in this post: Madrid, Toledo, Zaragoza, and Salamanca.

Here are the four places on a map.

Map created with Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

You’re most likely to visit Zaragoza and Salamanca if you’re driving into or out of Spain from France (Zaragoza) or Portugal (Salamanca).

The fastest way to reach Madrid is to either fly or to take a high-speed train from Barcelona. Once in Madrid, visit Toledo on a day trip with either a tour or on public transit, or stop in on your way south if you’re driving.

Auto Europe Car Rental

I suggest allocating at least three nights for Madrid and one night for each of the other three cities en route to other parts of Spain.

Traveling in Spain: Madrid is the Heart

Madrid is monumental. Large avenues lined with massive buildings give the city a solid but not terribly intimate feel.

Panoramic aerial view over Madrid, Spain
Panoramic aerial view over Madrid, Spain.

On one trip we happened to visit on September 29, the national day of protest against proposed government cuts. Thousands of demonstrators in the central Puerta del Sol wore red and chanted “No!”.

We’d heard that the whole city was shut down, but, as tourists, we didn’t experience any inconvenience beyond the taxis taking longer routes to get to the museums and tacking on a €2 surcharge. Considering the fares were around €5, we weren’t bothered!

On another trip, we stayed for two weeks and loved having the time to thoroughly explore Madrid. Check out my post: Exploring Fascinating Madrid–Europe’s: Best-Kept Secret for the Artsy Traveler for more in depth information about exploring Madrid.

Map of Madrid

The map shows the location of the six major sites described in this post.

This map was created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Art Museums in Madrid

If you’re an art lover, you’re likely visiting Madrid to tour the Prado, the Reina Sofia, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum of Art—all located in Madrid’s “Golden Triangle of Art.”

The Prado

The Prado is simply wonderful. With over 7,000 paintings in its collection and around 1,500 on display, your artsy heart will be beating wildly. My favorite piece in the Prado is The Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch. It’s even more creepy and surreal in real life than in reproductions.

 The Garden of Earthly Delights in the Museo del Prado in Madrid,  
by Hieronymus Bosch ,  c. 1495–1505.
The Garden of Earthly Delights in the Museo del Prado in Madrid,
by Hieronymus Bosch , c. 1495–1505.

Other notable works in the Prado include Velasquez’s Las Meninas and other fine works, particularly those of the Spanish royal family, and Goya’s 6th of May and Las pinturas negras (The Black Paintings). You’ll also find great works by El Greco, Rubens, Bruegel, Rembrandt, and van Dyck.

Spare some time for the art of Spanish masters, such as Bartolomé Esteban Murillo and José de Ribera, and the stark figures of Francisco de  Zurbarán. I’ve become partial to Zurbarán after seeing a major exhibition of his work in New York a few years ago. His figures are incredibly compelling.

Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

Visit the Thyssen-Bornemisza to see a huge range of art styles and artists spanning the centuries from the Middle Ages to the moderns.

It’s a veritable ‘who’s who’ of western art. Start on the second floor (the top floor) and work your way through the 13th and 14th centuries (my faves), check out the Portrait of King Henry VIII by Holbein the Younger, then stroll past Tintorettos, Titians, Caravaggios, et al.

The Thyssen-Bornemisza also includes masterpieces by van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Goya, Gainsborough, and Gauguin, to name a few. And then there are the moderns—Kandinsky, Picasso, Braque, Dali, and Madrid’s own Juan Gris.

Take your time and soak it all in!

Reina Sofia

You’ll probably want to spread your museum-going over two days. Seeing all three museums in the Golden Triangle in one day would be artsy suicide. Pace yourself!

Visit the Reina Sofia to view Picasso’s powerful Guernica, which he painted to protest the bombing of the Basque town of Guernica during the Spanish Civil War. The painting is displayed in a room of its own. Arrive early or late to view it without the crowds.

The rest of the museum houses an excellent collection of contemporary art, including works by Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró.

Botanical Gardens & Parque del Buen Retiro

I love European gardens, and these two parks adjacent to each other in Madrid are among the best. We spent a lot of time strolling through the botanical gardens to see a glorious display of dahlias (it was September) along with an outdoor exhibition of photographs documenting seminal moments in Spanish history from 1896 to the present.

Some of the shots were just amazing—dead bodies in the streets during the civil war, Franco riding in a car with Nixon, the Beatles wearing matador hats, and on and on—100 photographs. I wish I could have read the commentaries, but my Spanish is just about nil.

 The Beatles visit Madrid in Spain
The Beatles visit Madrid!

From the botanical gardens, wander into the main gardens where you’ll come across an artificial lake, exhibition spaces, and monuments, including one to the 191 victims of the 11 March 2004 train bombings in Madrid. You’ll also find lots of trees and shady pathways. The park is a treat!

Plaza Mayor

The grand central square of Madrid is an attractive open space that features imposing architecture and Madrid’s central tourist office. I liked all the archways.

Old Madrid after Dark

Madrid after dark is cooking and intense. Grab a drink and some tapas in an outdoor café and watch the world go by, then wander farther to find another place for dinner. Be careful not to over-order in Madrid! Portions are massive, and much of the food is fried and wrapped in ham. It’s tasty but more than a bit on the stodgy side.

Madrid cuisine, appetizer - hearty food in Spain.
Madrid cuisine can be a bit heavy.

Gregg and I often order one dish to share. The servers don’t mind.

Tour the Royal Palace (Palacio Real)

The Royal Palace in Madrid is the largest palace in western Europe. With 2,800 rooms, it’s almost twice the size of Versailles.

You can tour of the palace to view the only surviving example of a Stradivarius quartet, a portion of the permanent art collection, and the Royal Kitchens (only open to the public since 2017).

Traveling in Spain: Don’t Miss Toledo

Take a day trip from Madrid to explore beautiful Toledo or drive there on your way south.

If you’re driving, head straight for the massive car park at the base of the city. You can’t miss it. Just be sure to note where you parked your car and where you exited. Take pictures of your stall, the floor number, and your exit.

We did not follow this advice and ended up walking miles out of our way late at night.

You can’t help but like Toledo. It’s charming with a capital C.

Perched on a hill, Toledo, the city on a hill, is a World Heritage Site famous for its monuments, its awesome cathedral, and for being the “City of the Three Cultures”, thanks to the cultural influences of Christians, Muslims, and Jews. The city was also the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom from 542 to 725 CE, which is kind of cool.

Here’s Gregg in front of the classic view of Toledo made famous in a painting by El Greco.

In front of the classic view of Toledo, Spain
Gregg Simpson in front of the classic view of Toledo, Spain

Toledo is a popular tour stop, so during the day, you’ll have to dodge busloads of tourists huffing and puffing through the narrow streets in the stifling heat. Scoot around them to get a look inside the stunning cathedral that lives up to the hype.

I was mesmerized by the choir stalls. The carving on each stall is different.

Toledo is the place to buy items made from the famous Toledo steel. Display windows bristle with swords and knives and other sharp things that would never make it through airport security in your carry-on bag. I bought several pairs of sewing scissors as gifts.

Store window display of swords in Toledo
Store window display in Toledo

In the evening, once the tour busses have left, the streets fill with locals. Weave through the streets of the old town in search of tapas and wine. You’ll find plenty!

Traveling in Spain: Visit Off the Beaten Track Zaragoza

You’ll likely visit Zaragoza en route to somewhere else. It makes a convenient stopping point for drivers coming from France through the Pyrenees. You can also break up the drive from Barcelona to Madrid in Zaragoza.

The city is the perfect one-night stop along a desolate stretch of a very large country. And you’ll have a chance to enjoy a virtually tourist-free Spanish city that has a great deal to offer the visitor.

Zaragoza Overview

As the capital of the province of Zaragoza and of the autonomous community of Aragon, Zaragoza is a good size, but the interesting part of the city is compact enough to stroll around with just one inexpensive taxi ride out to the Aljafería Palace.

Here’s a map of the city showing the sights mentioned in this post:

Places mapped by Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

The streets and shops are prosperous-looking, clean, and thronged with locals. You’re unlikely to see many tourists, although you’ll find an air-conditioned and well-staffed tourist office on the main plaza, so obviously tourists do go there.

A friendly young man at the tourist office told us where to go for cut-price tapas that evening. Apparently, there’s a street where all the tapas joints charge just €2 for a tapa and a glass of vino. Count me in!

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar

Zaragoza borders the Ebro River which you’ll probably drive across on your way into town and see again when you visit Zaragoza’s main sight—the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar (#1 on the map).

Cathedral and Ebro River in Zaragoza. Aragon, Spain
Cathedral and Ebro river in Zaragoza. Aragon, Spain

Built between 1681 and 1872, this massive Baroque cathedral with its fabulously tile-topped cupolas and turrets is worth a look. Wander around the vast aisles and check out the highlight—a roomful of paintings by Goya.

Zaragoza is Goya’s hometown, so across from the cathedral is a museum (#2) dedicated to his work. We didn’t visit it on this trip, instead opting to grab a cab to the Aljafería Palace which reportedly dates from Moorish times.

Aljafería Palace

We were virtually alone as we ambled through the various rooms to admire interesting exhibits and take photos of the attractive—and empty—courtyard complete with reflecting pond, palm trees, and arches. The Aljafería Palace (#3) is no Alhambra, but it’s worth a quick look.

Aljafería Palace in Zaragoza, Spain
Palace built in Zaragoza in the 11th century.

In the evening, stroll through streets comfortably filled with locals to find tapas. We arrived at the place of the €2 tapas at 8 pm, only to find it and most others still closed. This is Spain, where things typically don’t get going until well past 9 or 10.

But persevere and you’ll find that even regular-priced tapas are not expensive. Zaragoza is a bargain for food and drink.

We stayed in the Hotel NH Collection Gran Hotel de Zaragoza (#4) which was comfortable albeit a bit bland. But the location was good and we could walk everywhere.

Traveling in Spain: Don’t Miss Lovely Salamanca

Visit Salamanca on your way to or from Portugal. If your accommodation budget extends to a splurge, book into the Parador de Salamanca, located about a fifteen-minute walk from the town.

Cathedral of Salamanca next to the river in Salamanca, Spain
Cathedral of Salamanca next to the river

Paradors in Spain are special hotels usually located in historic buildings, such as convents and palaces. They have a certain level of luxury with prices to match, although bargains can be had. Check the booking sites!

The parador in Salamanca is one of the few modern paradors in Spain. Its main claim to fame is its location overlooking the skyline of old Salamanca.

Here’s the view from our room:

Parador of Salamanca

Salamanca is a great place to visit for its old town, fabulous central plaza, and Casa Lis, a marvelous art nouveau museum. Here’s a map of the highlights mentioned in this post.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

Casa Lis Art Nouveau and Art Deco Museum

If you love art deco, you’ll adore this museum. La Casa Lis itself is an extraordinary building in the art nouveau style with plenty of stained glass. Exhibits of over 2,500 pieces of art deco and art nouveau objets d’art include porcelain figures, gold and ivory statues, enamels, bronze items, toys, and even Fabergé eggs.

Casa Lis Art Nouveau and Art Deco Museum, in Salamanca, Spain
Casa Lis Art Nouveau and Art Deco Museum, in Salamanca, Spain

The display of Paris fashion dolls from the late 1800s was especially compelling. Spend a couple of hours strolling from room to room in the virtually empty museum.

Plaza Mayor

Wander uphill into Salamanca’s lovely old town. Very little car traffic is allowed, so the streets are clear and easy to walk in. As the sun begins to go down, people flood into the streets to enjoy the evening air.

We arrived in the Plaza Mayor to find it packed with thousands of people waving placards. Just as in Madrid, Spain’s austerity measures were not going over well with the citizens of Salamanca. However, the protest was one of the most good-humored I’ve seen. The crowd consisted mostly of families and middle-aged or older people smiling and laughing as they periodically brandished their signs. The gist of most signs was a large, red “NO”.

If you encounter a protest (unlikely!), wait until it moves off , then snag a table to gaze out over what must be one of the loveliest plazas in Spain.

Enjoying Plaza Mayor

The Plaza Mayor appears to be square, lined on all four sides by uniform facades that date from the 18th century. Bands of young men dressed in medieval garb played Mexican-sounding music. We wondered why the music sounded so Mexican and were told by our server that Salamanca has maintained ties with Mexico and Latin America. Apparently, many of the Spanish people who emigrated to Mexico came from Salamanca, and some of the wealthier ones have returned to make Salamanca so prosperous looking. It’s a beautifully maintained city.

Around 10:30, when the light still hadn’t faded much (it was early July), the lights were turned on, and everyone in the square gasped, much to the amusement of our server who just rolled his eyes. I guess he sees it every night.

Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, Spain
Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, Spain at night.

Traveling in Spain: Where to Stay in Central Spain

For accommodation suggestions in Madrid, Toledo, Zaragoza, and Salamanca, see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Conclusion

Have you visited the cities described in this post? Leave your comments below. Here are some more Artsy Traveler posts about Spain: