Favorite Concerts & Performances in Europe

When it comes to concerts and performances, Europe is like a chocolate box brimming over with artsy flavors. Venues in every city and town showcase a wide range of musical styles, from classical to traditional to rock.

In addition to music concerts, you’ll find plenty of theater and dance performances, along with festivals and special events.

Gregg and I reminisce most often about the many wonderful performances we’ve enjoyed during our European travels. Some of our favorite memories are of performances we stumbled across, often as a result of chatting with locals and fellow travelers, noticing posters and flyers, and checking out “What’s On” pages on local websites.

Gregg and I reflected in the ultra-modern façade of the Paris Philharmonie

Overview

While I’m always open to serendipity when it comes to choosing performances and concerts, I also believe in planning ahead. I suggest that as soon as you know the dates of your trip, go online and search for concerts, performances, festivals and other live events that will be on while you’re traveling.

A search for “musicals in London”, “classical concerts in Paris”, or “dance performances, Seville” should yield good results. You can also use generic searches such as “what’s on in Berlin” or “concerts in Vienna” and then narrow down the choices to focus on the music genres that interest you.

In this post, I share some of the memorable concerts and performances we’ve enjoyed, listed by city.

Amsterdam

One of Europe’s most beautiful concert halls is Amsterdam’s Concertgebouw, located across from the Museumplein. Free lunchtime concerts are held on Wednesdays in the small concert hall adjacent to the main hall.

On a recent visit to Amsterdam, we enjoyed a lively performance by two vibraphonists. Check the website to find out what’s on when you’re in Amsterdam. You’ll join locals and very few other tourists for a marvelous (and free!) musical experience.

Exterior of the Concertgebouw in Amsterdam, a great place to see concerts and performances in Europe
The Concertgebouw in Amsterdam

Barcelona

The Ópera y Flamenco performance at the astonishingly exquisite Palau de la Música Catalana is not to be missed. Even if Ópera y Flamenco is not playing when you’re visiting Barcelona, check out the Palau de la Música Catalana website to see what’s on and, if possible, get tickets. A visit to the Palau de la Música will quite simply blow your mind!

The magnificent stained glass at the Palau de la Música Catalana

Built between 1905 and 1908 by the modernist architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, the Palau de la Música Catalana is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you can’t get tickets to a performance, you can still take a tour of the building.

Berlin

If you’re a classical music fan, check out what’s on at the impressive home of the Berlin Philharmonic (Berlin Philharmoniker). The building itself is fabulous with wonderful acoustics and worth touring even if you can’t see a concert there. We enjoyed an awe-inspiring performance of Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring performed by the Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin.

Exterior of the Berlin Philharmonic, a stunning venue for  concerts and performances in Europe
The Berlin Philharmoniker

Check out the concert calendar and buy tickets from the Berlin Philharmoniker website.

Cologne

While we usually book tickets well in advance, we’re always open to attending concerts on the spur of the moment. One such memorable concert was at the Kölner Philharmonie, a magnificent concert hall a stone’s throw from Cologne’s famous cathedral and in the same complex as the wonderful Ludwig Museum.

We had just finished visiting the Romano-Germanic-Museum (a must-see!) and were walking past the Kölner Philharmonie when we noticed a poster for the evening’s concert. The programme appealed to us and so we inquired at the box office about tickets. The very friendly, English-speaking attendant told us that tickets were available and at a price we considered incredibly reasonable, at least compared to what we were accustomed to paying in Vancouver.

Two hours later, we took our seats in one of the most dazzling modern concert halls I’d ever been in. Built in 1986, the Kölner Philharmonie is constructed like an amphitheatre and provides near-perfect acoustics. Even the size and padding of the seats have been selected to ensure constant acoustics regardless of whether the seat is occupied.

Check the Kölner Philharmonie website to see what’s on.

Leipzig

Marvelous Leipzig is a must-visit for classical music lovers, particularly if you adore (like I do!) the music of Johann Sebastian Bach. Read my post about our visit to the Bach Museum (I still swoon when I think of it!).

While in Leipzig, we attended a wonderful concert at the famed Gewandhaus where the young Clara Wieck (who became Clara Schumann and the inspiration for my second novel, A Woman of Note) debuted as a solo pianist in 1828. Many other famous musicians have played at Gewandhaus and for that reason I was curious to see a performance there.

Exterior of the Gewandhaus concert venue in Leipzig, Germany, a stunning venue for  concerts and performances in Europe
Gewandhaus concert hall in Leipzig, Germany

The ultra-modern Gewandhaus concert hall is nothing like the venue Clara played in, and is, in fact, the third concert hall to bear the name Gewandhaus, the first being built in 1781, the second in 1884 (designed by famed architect Martin Gropius), and the current hall in 1981.

We snagged tickets to a solo piano concert of music by Mozart and Chopin. What a treat, and, at less than $30CDN per ticket, probably the best value for a concert I’ve ever enjoyed. At the interval, we thought the concert was over. The pianist had played for so long that we couldn’t imagine he’d be able to perform any longer. As we prepared to leave, a local woman came up to us and told us in careful English that it was only the break and that we needed to stay for the second half. Gratefully, we returned to the concert hall to enjoy another ninety minutes of jaw-dropping music performed by the very hard-working pianist.

Check the Gewandhaus website to see what’s on.

Lisbon

When you’re visiting Lisbon, make time for a fado performance (or two). We favor the smaller clubs with intimate performances over the more touristy offerings.

A fado guitar; see fado performances while traveling in Portugal

Our favorite place for fado in Lisbon is Restaurante Canto do Camões on Travessa da Espera in the Bairro Alto. It’s low-key, with a friendly owner, good food, reasonable prices, and lots of fado. When we were there, singers dropped in, performed a few songs designed to rip our hearts out, collected a few euros from the proprietor, and then left, presumably to go sing in another place. Sadly, Restaurante Canto do Camões is now closed permanently; however, you’ll find other small restaurants that feature fado in the Bairro Alto and the Alfama.

You can also see fado performances in Porto and Coimbra. In Porto, we loved the performance at the Casa da Guitarra, which also included a glass of port. In Coimbra, fado is only sung by men. We saw a troupe of men who sing wearing traditional costumes at À Capella, a 14th-century chapel that includes a bar and tapas with the live fado serenades.

Skyline of Coimbra in Portugal, a great place to hear fado
Coimbra is a charming town and a great place to enjoy fado

London

The first thing I do after booking a trip to London is check out what’s playing in the West End and what’s on at the National Theater and the Globe. I’ve enjoyed so many memorable performances in London, starting in the 1970s when I was a student at Reading University, a 40-minute train ride from the bright lights of the West End. In those days, performances in London were so reasonably priced that even a student could afford them! Even now, I find that prices for musicals in the West End are far below what I’ve paid in New York.

View of a street in London's busy west end theater district; visit London to see plenty of awesome concerts and performances while traveling in Europe.
London’s busy West End has plenty of great theaters

Go to the London Theatre website, see what’s on and get tickets well in advance. You can also take your chances during your trip and purchase last-minute tickets, often at a reduced rate. However, I don’t recommend doing this for a performance that you really want to see.

But if you are flexible and open to seeing what’s playing, you could well get lucky. On a trip to London in 2018, I got a ticket for Mamma Mia on the day of the performance for just 40 GBP.

Before going to the theater, enjoy an early dinner at one of the many restaurants in the West End advertising pre-theatre menus.

And while planning your entertainment options in London, don’t forget to check out what’s on at venues such as the Albert Hall and the Barbican Centre. Another option is the lunchtime and evening concerts at the achingly lovely St Martin-in-the-Fields near Trafalgar Square.

Exterior of Saint Martins-in-the-Fields in London, a venue for classical music concerts
Saint Martins-in-the-Fields next to Trafalgar Square in London hosts classical music concerts

Paris

We love going to concerts in Paris. Spectacular venues such as the Opéra Bastille, the Paris Philharmonie and Sainte-Chapelle enhance the musical experiences, and the quality of the performances is always first-rate. Here are just a few of the venues to check out, particularly if you are a classical music lover.

Opéra Bastille

Seeing an opera in Paris is definitely a cool experience, and one that we hope to repeat as restrictions continue to lift. One of our most memorable opera experiences was seeing Götterdämmerung at the Opéra Bastille. Talk about mind-exploding!

Exterior of the Opera Bastille in Paris, a stunning venue for concerts and performances in Europe
Opéra Bastille in Paris

The Opéra national de Paris presents operas at two venues—the ultra chic and modern Opéra Bastille and the sumptuously decorated and historic Opéra Garnier. Check the website for the Opéra national de Paris.

Paris Philharmonie

The Philharmonie de Paris is just breathtaking! Located in Parc de la Villette in the northeast of Paris, the Philharmonie is a complex of buildings that also house exhibition spaces and rehearsal rooms. We attended a performance in the symphonic concert hall—a 2,400-seat über-modern venue designed by Jean Nouvel and opened in January 2015. It was a stunning experience.

Interior of the Paris Philharmonie

Check the website for upcoming performances and events.

Piano Concerts at Église Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre

Located just across the Seine from Notre-Dame Cathedral in the 5th arrondissement, the Église Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is one of the oldest churches in Paris. Concerts featuring either solo piano or duos (e.g., violin and piano or cello and piano) are frequently held there—and they are well worth attending. We’ve been to several. Tickets are reasonably priced, the venue is deliciously ancient and atmospheric, and the quality of the playing is first-rate.

Exterior of Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre in the 5th arrondisement in Paris, across the Seine from Notre-Dame Cathedral. The church is a lovely venue for concerts and performances in Europe.
Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is just across the Seine from Notre-Dame Cathedral

Check the website for upcoming concerts and keep an eye out for posters in the area (that’s how we discovered what was on).

Sainte-Chapelle Concerts

Fancy spending an hour or two staring up at sublimely beautiful stained glass supported by impossibly slender columns while listening to sublimely beautiful classical music? Then check out the website for Sainte-Chapelle’s concerts and purchase tickets for a performance. You won’t be disappointed!

Imagine listening to music surrounded by this view!

We’ve enjoyed several concerts at Sainte-Chapelle and have always been transported into ever higher planes of awesomeness. A favorite evening out is to enjoy the performance at 7 pm and then to wander starry-eyed through the cobbled streets of Île de la Cité to Île Saint-Louis and dine at one of the many small bistros in the area. Artsy traveling doesn’t get much better!

Seville

We’re firm fans of flamenco. See my post describing the flamenco performance we enjoyed on our first visit to Seville. In Seville, you can see flamenco at several venues. I recommend two.

A flamenco dancer dressed in red; a flamenco performance is not to be missed while traveling in Seville, Spain
A flamenco performance will captivate you!

Flamenco Museum

From the website, purchase the combo ticket that includes the museum and a late afternoon flamenco performance that will leave you breathless.

Los Gallos

Situated in a charming little courtyard in the heart of Seville, Los Gallos is an intimate venue with world-class talent. Sip the Sangria included in the ticket price and prepare to be blasted into the stratosphere.

Stratford-upon-Avon

Every time I visit England, I do my best to squeeze in a trip to Stratford-upon-Avon to see a performance by the Royal Shakespeare Company. I have been fortunate to see many wondrous performances there, including productions of Romeo and Juliet and Hamlet that both starred the incomparable David Tennant.

Exteior of the main theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon, one of the world's most famous venues for theater performances in Europe
Main theatre at Stratford-upon-Avon

When I was a student at Reading University, a two-hour drive southeast of Stratford-upon-Avon, I frequently made the trek to see a performance. I was studying for a degree in English Literature so taking in as many Shakespeare productions as possible was almost mandatory.

You can see Shakespeare productions at the Globe in London and the experience is highly recommended. However, I must admit that I prefer the productions at Stratford-upon-Avon. The seating is more comfortable, and the quality is top-notch. I liken seeing a production by the Royal Shakespeare Company as the auditory equivalent of looking at high-quality cut crystal. Every word and gesture is crisp and perfect.

When you go up to Stratford-upon-Avon to slake your Shakespeare yen, you also get the bonus of having time to wander the charming streets of Stratford. Sure, it’s a bit touristy, but so what? I love touring Shakespeare’s birthplace, paying my respects at his grave in the church, and watching the swans glide by on the River Avon.

Exterior of Shakespeare's home in Stratford-upon-Avon in England
Shakespeare’s birthplace in Stratford-upon-Avon

In August 2022, I’ll be visiting Stratford-upon-Avon again, this time to catch a performance of Richard III. Although admittedly not my favorite of Shakespeare’s History plays, I know I’ll see a production to remember.

Visit the RSC’s website for details about upcoming productions in Stratford-upon-Avon and London.

Venice

On one visit to Venice, we were strolling through the quiet streets after dark when we noticed a young man dressed in 18th-century garb and carrying a violin case hurry past. We caught up to him and asked if he was a musician. He told us he was on his way to play a concert of 17th- and 18th-century music in a church. Did we like music like that?

Is Vivaldi Venetian?

Yes!

We followed him to the church and half an hour later were sitting beneath a mural painted by Titian and listening to a selection of Venetian classical music favorites. Bliss! The orchestra was clad in 18th-century garb and the performance was obviously aimed at tourists, but that didn’t affect the quality of the musicianship or the depth of our enjoyment.

A mask and violin representing music in Venice, a place with many venues for concerts and performances
Hearing Baroque music in Venice just makes sense!

After the concert, we floated out into a warm evening to find ourselves moments later at the edge of the Grand Canal. A barge filled with another group of musicians in period dress slid past, the music wafting through the balmy air like the rustling of silk stockings.

Magical!

In Venice, several venues feature classical music concerts. Check out the Music in Venice website for programs and dates.

Verona

The Arena di Verona, the Roman amphitheatre in Verona, Italy, periodically presents operas to hundreds of fans who are mostly perched on the edge of very hard, very ancient Roman stone steps. We know because several years ago, we were such fans. To read about an evening that has become synonymous with disaster in our family, check out Meltdown in Verona.

Our experience aside, attending a performance at the Roman arena in Verona could be the magical experience we’d expected. The detailed RM Europa Tickets website contains information about all the opera festivals in Europe in 2022. You’ll find opera festivals in almost all European countries, along with a detailed list of venues and schedules, including the Arena di Verona.

The Arena di Verona, a venue for grand operas and other concerts and performances in Italy
Arena di Verona

Vienna

You can’t walk two feet in Vienna’s Stephansplatz without tripping over a bewigged young person trying to sell you tickets to a performance of Strauss, Mozart, or both. Vienna has several venues featuring tourist-oriented shows designed to showcase the oldie goldies of several of its most famous composers, particularly Johann Strauss.

The last time I visited Vienna, traveling solo, I attended a delightful string quartet concert at the gorgeous Sala Terrena, an intimate and heavily decorated venue in the center of the city. Mozart allegedly lived in the building in which the Sala Terrena is housed when he first came to Vienna as a young man. While you wait for the concert to begin, feast your eyes on the riotous Baroque frescoes and look out especially for the leopard! For more about my experience at the Sala Terrena concert, check out my post on Music in Vienna.

Interior of the Sala Terrena in Vienna, a charming venue for classical concerts and performances
Some of the frescoes at the Sala Terrena in Vienna

On the same trip to Vienna, I took the tram and then a bus out to Schloss Laudon (Water Palace) in the bucolic countryside surrounding Vienna to attend a concert that was part of the five-day Schloss Laudon festival. I discovered the festival while planning my trip to Vienna and was very glad I managed to snag a ticket for a performance that featured an early Beethoven piano trio in the style of Haydn and a marvelous rendition of Tchaikovsky’s piano trio.

Hamburg

In Hamburg, get tickets to see a performance at the ultra-modern Elbphilharmonie, one of the world’s most stunning concert halls.

Conclusion

Before you travel, check websites for venues and performance times and budget as much money as you can spare for live entertainment. You’ll be making memories that last a lifetime.

And keep a lookout for local folk performances that are often free, with some even encouraging participation. You’ll typically find these advertised in flyers and on posters. Watch a flag-waving demonstration by young people dressed in medieval garb in Siena, dance the Sardana in front of Barcelona Cathedral along with hundreds of locals and tourists, watch a concert featuring ancient instruments in a tiny chapel in Les Baux de Provence, and more!

Keep your eyes and ears open; you never know what’s around the next corner.

Statue featuring several figures dancing the Sardana, a traditional dance in Barcelona, Spain
Statue commemorating the Sardana in Barcelona

Have you attended concerts while traveling in Europe? Share your experiences and recommendations in the Comments below. Here are some more posts that feature information about concert-going in Europe:

Courtyard in the Alhambra in Spain

Amazing Artsy Sightseeing Choices in Spain for the Independent Traveler

When it comes to artsy favorites, Spain has more than its fair share of wonderful sights and experiences. From amazing flamenco to mind-bending modern art to soul-expanding palaces and cathedrals, Spain is a treasure that keeps on giving.

Every time I travel to Spain, I discover new layers of a culture that stretch back millennia.

In this post, I share some of my favorite artsy experiences in Spain.

Map of Spain: Suggested Artsy Favorites

The map below shows the locations of the artsy sightseeing favorites mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.

Flamenco–a Definite Artsy Favorite!

My husband Gregg and I are crazy for flamenco and see it every chance we get when we travel in Spain. In fact, Gregg loves it so much that he created a whole series of pastel drawings based on his experiences seeing flamenco in Spain.

Abstract pastel drawing in pink and blue tones showing a flamenco dancer with swirling skirts
Flamenco Abstraction 7 by Gregg Simpson
Abstract pastel drawing in blue and green tones showing a flamenco dancer with swirling skirts
Flamenco Abstraction 6 by Gregg Simpson

We’ve experienced flamenco in Seville, Cordoba, and Barcelona.

Flamenco in Seville

Seville is the place to go to see a wide variety of flamenco shows, although we’ve also seen good shows in both Barcelona (even though it’s not flamenco country) and Cordoba.

When you’re in Seville (#1 on the map), start with the Flamenco Dance Museum. Purchase the combo ticket that includes the museum and a late afternoon flamenco show. On your second night in Seville (and seriously, spend at least two nights and preferably three in this most Spanish of cities), attend a flamenco show at Los Gallos.

Two female flamenco dances dancing outside against a backdrop of rounded columns in Seville.
Flamenco dancers in Seville

The Flamenco Dance Museum exhibits a marvelous collection of flamenco-related objects, films, and paintings and explains the history of flamenco and the meaning of the various terms. Baile is dance, Bailaor is dancer, cantaor is singer, palmas is the rhythmic hand-clapping that accompanies flamenco song and dance, and duende is the soul force that inspires the art of flamenco.

The flamenco dancers and musicians at the Flamenco Museum put on a heart-stomping hour-long concert. Get your tickets in advance. The room was packed!

Options for Seeing Flamenco in Seville

The show at Los Gallos is intimate and incredible. We’ve seen it twice and both times we were completely blown away.

Seeing Flamenco in Barcelona

Catalan Barcelona (#2) is not a center for flamenco. However, we saw our first performance of flamenco there at the Palau de la Música. Called Opera y Flamenco, we enjoyed an utterly spellbinding evening of opera arias by a tenor and a soprano, flamenco dancing by a man and woman, and traditional flamenco singing by a woman. A band of about eight that included guitars, piano, cello, violins, and drums blew the roof off.

I was having heart palpitations by the end. Rarely, if ever, have we experienced such an awe-inspiring evening of music. The flamenco dancing was enough to turn even the most hardened non-romantic into a giant goose bump.

The concert we saw may not be playing when you’re in Barcelona but definitely make room in your itinerary to tour the Palau de la Música or take in a concert. The stunningly ornate modernista building will take your breath away. I write more about it in Favorite Concerts & Performances in Europe.

Seeing the Palau de la Música in Barcelona

Historical Art–a Must See for the Artsy Traveler

Historical art in Spain takes in a lot of centuries, going as far back as 30,000 years ago and beyond. Spain has several cave art sites and is world-renowned for its master artists, including Velasquez, El Greco, and Goya, among others.

Cave Art

So far, we’ve visited only one cave art site in Spain—La Pileta (#3) near Ronda in southern Spain. The hour-long tour in the dimly lit cave took us past paintings that are at least 30,000 years old. Reservations are required; check the website to book your tour time. The drive up a steep and winding road to the entrance of the cave is half the fun of a visit here.

We learned about the Caves of Pileta (Cueva de la Pileta) from the owner of the beautiful little hotel we stayed at out in the countryside near Ronda (see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks).

We’re big cave art fans and plan to visit the ‘queen’ of the cave art sites –the Cave of Altamira (Cueva de Altamira) in northern Spain near the charming town of Santillana del Mar. Featured are charcoal drawings and polychrome paintings of animals and human hands.

Detail of the replica of paintings of the Cave of Altamira

The Cave at Altamira is the premier site for exploring prehistoric art in Spain. Buy tickets in advance from the website.

The Prado

The Prado in Madrid (#4) is one of the world’s major art galleries, on a par with the Louvre and the Rijksmuseum. We enjoyed touring the Prado which exhibits many of the biggies, including Bosch’s The Garden of Earthly Delights, Velasquez’s Las Meninas, Goya’s 6th of May, and a whack of Raphaels, Rubenses, Durers, El Grecos, et al.

The Garden of Earthly Delights by Bosch High Resolution 2

Shown above is the Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch, surely one of the coolest paintings ever!

Although large, the Prado not as daunting as the Louvre and certainly not as crowded. You can get fairly close to masterpieces that you’ve seen in art books for years. There’s no doubt that the real thing is, well, the real thing! There’s no comparison to a reproduction.

Put the Prado at the top of your artsy must-see list when you visit Madrid.

Options for Touring Art Museums in Madrid

Modern Art for the Artsy Traveler

Spain is home to several modern art museums, the most famous being the Reina Sofia and the Guggenheim Bilbao. Don’t miss either one if you’re a modern art fan.

Reina Sofia

The Reina Sofia (#5) is the major modern art museum in Madrid and houses Picasso’s Guernica along with assorted works by Miró, Dalí, etc. Guernica did not come to Spain until the 1980s after the death of Franco. Now it has pride of place in a room of its own.

The painting is massive and far more powerful in real life than in reproduction. You’ll sense how enraged Picasso felt as he painted it.

The Reina Sofia is a well-designed gallery that combines a modern area with the arched hallways and barred windows of an old hospital. In many of the rooms, a film representative of the period is playing. Most were from the silent era which made following them a lot easier.

The Reina Sofia is included in my post showcasing Awesome Modern Art Museums in Europe: Best Bets for the Artsy Traveler.

Guggenheim Bilbao

The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao (#6) is hands down one of my very favorite modern art museums in Europe. The building itself is fabulous as are the many sculptures surrounding it, including the beloved Puppy. He’s the massive Highland Terrier created by Jeff Koons and made from living flowers that guards the entrance to the museum.

Puppy stands guard outside the Guggenheim Bilbao

The Guggenheim Bilbao is included in my post showcasing the Awesome Modern Art Museums in Europe: Best Bets for the Artsy Traveler.

Options for Touring the Guggenheim Bilbao

Museums Dedicated to Individual Artists

Several of the most famous artists of the 20th century were born in Spain including Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, and Salvador Dalí. Each has museums dedicated to their art along with pieces in most major collections.

Picasso Museum

For more Picasso, visit the exquisite Picasso Museum (Museu Picasso) (#7) in the Barri Gòtic, the medieval center of Barcelona. Picasso truly was a master of it all—a painter, printmaker, ceramicist, sculptor, stage designer, and even a poet and playwright. The Museu Picasso includes over 4,000 works artfully displayed.

Miró Foundation

A visit to the Miró Foundation (Fundació Joan Miró (#8)) in Barcelona is just plain fun. Located in the Parc de Montjuïc, it’s a subway or bus ride from the Plaça de Catalunya and well worth an afternoon of your time. I write more about it in my post Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Trendy Barcelona.

Dalí Museum

If you’re driving from southwest France into Spain, consider stopping in Figueres to visit the majorly quirky Dalí Theatre-Museum (#9). If you are a Dalí fan (I confess I am not), the museum is a worthwhile stop. The area also has other Dalí sites including the Salvador Dalí House in Portlligat near the charming little town of Cadaques.

Cathedrals to Awe the Artsy Traveler

In this very Catholic country, you’ll find lots of churches and cathedrals, many dripping with gold brought back from the New World by the conquistadors.

Learn more about them in these posts.

Options for Touring Cathedrals in Spain

My favorite cathedral, hands down, is the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. Still unfinished after decades of building, the Sagrada Familia is so incredibly quirky at the same time as being heart-stoppingly stunning. The stained glass floods your senses, blocking out the sounds of fellow travelers. Stop, sit, and let your soul be stirred.

Stained glass windows in the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona - an artsy favorite
Interior of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona

Palaces–Artsy Favorites

The must-see palace in Spain is, of course, the Alhambra (#16) in Granada, the center of Moorish Spain back in the day. I write about my suggestions for visiting Granada and touring the Alhambra in A Culture Steeped Itinerary to Tour Andalusia Comfortably in 10 Days.

Allocate at least two nights in Granada so that you can spend the entire day touring the Alhambra and the Nasrid Palace. The complex is massive and requires stamina to enjoy. Pace yourself and make sure you get reservations well in advance of your visit.

View of the Alhambra in Granada, Spain--a must-see for the artsy traveler
The fabled Alhambra in Granada

In Madrid, the Royal Palace is also definitely worth a visit.

Conclusion

One of the many things I love about traveling in Spain is the variety of interesting sights and regions. At least two weeks is needed to even scratch the surface of Spain. It’s a huge country!

Must-see regions are Catalonia to visit Barcelona, Andalusia to visit Seville, Cordoba, and Granada, Madrid and Toledo in the center, and northern Spain from Santiago de Compostela in the far northwest to Bilbao and Basque country and the Pyrenees in the far west.

Artsy travel experiences abound. Here are more posts to explore:

Whitewashed house in Sparin

Best Itineraries to Tour Favorite Regions in Spain

My two Spain itineraries last for three weeks each because, frankly, you can’t “do” Spain in one trip. But in a three-week period, you can see a fair bit of it by focusing on either the south or the north.

This post presents two itineraries that both include Madrid.

Itinerary 1 starts in Barcelona, goes down the coast to Andalusia, swings by Madrid, visits charming Zaragoza and ends in Barcelona.

Itinerary 2 starts in Madrid and explores Salamanca and northern Spain, before swinging south to take in Burgos and ending back in Madrid.

Sample Itinerary 1: Barcelona and the South

The map below shows the route for a three-week trip to Spain starting and ending in Barcelona.

Day 1: Arrive in Barcelona

Go into Barcelona and get settled. You’ll spend three nights here so you have plenty of time to explore one of Europe’s most visited destinations.

Days 2 to 3: Barcelona

Spend three nights and two full days exploring Barcelona. Highlights include the Sagrada Familia, the Gaudi architecture, the Picasso Museum, the Palau de la Musica, and the Miro Foundation. Read more in How to Spend Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Beautiful Barcelona.

Many Catalan people would prefer Catalonia not be a part of Spain. The last time I was in Catalonia staying for a week in Girona, a Catalan stronghold, Catalan flags bloomed from the windows of many buildings and people spoke Catalan more readily than Spanish.

But don’t worry, most people in the service industries will likely speak English to you or at least respond to your attempts at Spanish.

Memories of Barcelona

One of my most vivid memories of Catalonia was during a visit to Barcelona when I was 21. I had traveled for two weeks with friends along the Costa Brava and then returned to Barcelona to spend a day sightseeing before flying back to England where I was studying. This was in the mid-1970s when Franco was in power and Spain was not the hip, happenin’ and awesome place to travel that it is now.

I walked into the Plaça de Catalunya and sat on the edge of one of the fountains to watch the world go by. The sun shone, people strolled, all seemed peaceful.

Suddenly, a handful of young men entered the plaza from a side street. They carried two or three placards and were chanting. I stood up for a better look, fascinated by this evidence of Spanish protest in the midst of fascism. I started walking toward the protestors.

Bad move.

A phalanx of armed soldiers started marching directly towards me, sub-machine guns cocked and ready. I looked around. The people who had filled the plaza with noise and laughter moments before were gone. I was completely alone—just me and my orange backpack with its grubby Canadian flag.

I picked up my pack and retreated as smartly as I could. The soldiers veered away, presumably to arrest the protestors, and I boarded the first bus I found to take me to the airport—seven hours before my flight was scheduled to take off.

Barcelona Today

I returned to Barcelona in 2010 and again in 2015. What a difference!

Barcelona is fun to visit, although in recent years it’s become extremely crowded. Avoid it at the height of summer and plan your time to avoid the worst of the crowds.

Read my suggestions for enjoying a two-day visit to Barcelona in Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Trendy Barcelona.

Day 5: Valencia

Pick up a car at Barcelona airport and start driving south. Spain is BIG! You can’t easily drive from Barcelona to Andalusia in one day so I suggest breaking your trip in Valencia. It’s a pleasant city and the City of Arts and Sciences (La Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias) is a spectacular and imposing space well worth a few hours of your time.

Days 6 to 11: Andalusia

You should really spend at least a week in this iconic area of Spain, but if you only have fivedays, then focus on Granada and Seville. Both are Spain must-sees. If you have time for only one of the two cities, then my vote is Seville. I never get tired of visiting this beautiful city with its wonderful food, fiery flamenco and great atmosphere.

You could easily spend a week in this region of Spain enjoying the historic Seville and Granada, before exploring the stunning White Towns – Los Pueblos Blancos—and Ronda with its gorgeous gorge.

Read more about Andalusia in A Culture-Steeped Itinerary to Tour Andalusia Comfortably in 10 Days.

Here are some GetYourGuide tour options in Andalusia:

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Day 12: Cordoba

On your way north to Madrid, stay a night in Cordoba, one of Spain’s most magical cities (and that’s saying something). Explore La Mezquita, the immense mosque dating from 784 A.D, that features a magnificent columned prayer hall and Byzantine mosaics. In the evening, wander the tiny streets of this lovely city and take in a flamenco performance. I don’t think an artsy traveler can ever see too much flamenco..

Day 13: Toledo

Toledo makes a good stop for a peaceful night before driving into Madrid. It’s a lovely little town with plenty to see. At nights, it’s particularly stunning when the crowds have dissipated and you have the floodlit cathedral to yourself.

Days 14 to 18: Madrid

Drive north to Madrid, leave your car in a parking lot outside the city, or better yet stay at my favorite Madrid hotel: Sabataini drop your car off at the airport, and then spend your last day exploring Spain’s capital. You could easily spend a week in Madrid, but if you only have time for one day, check out my post How to Enjoy a Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Madrid.

Day 19: Zaragoza

Although on the tourist trail, Zaragoza is a wonderful place to spend the night. We toured the magnificent baroque Nuestra Señora del Pilar basilica, checked out the Aljafería, an 11th-century Moorish palace, and enjoyed some of the best tapas of all our trips to Spain. Zaragoza makes a good place to break the trip from Madrid to Barcelona.

Day 20-21: Barcelona

Drop your car at the airport and spend another night in Barcelona. You could spend your final day taking a tour to stunning Montserrat.

Sample Itinerary 2: Madrid and the North

The map below shows the route for a three-week trip to Spain starting and ending in Madrid that skips Barcelona and southern Spain but does include western and northern Spain.

Day 1: Arrive in Madrid

Go into Madrid and get settled. You’ll spend three nights here so you have plenty of time to explore one of my favorite European cities.

Days 2 to 4: Madrid

Visit Madrid for its fabulous art museums—the Prado and the Reina Sofia. Also, stroll through Retiro Park (El Parque del Buen Retiro or just El Retiro), then join the locals for a late dinner.

Madrid is definitely worth at least three nights so you can thoroughly enjoy seeing some of Europe’s greatest art “in the flesh” and be a part of the lively evening scene.

Read more about my Madrid recommendations in Exploring Fascinating Madrid–Europe’s: Best-Kept Secret for the Artsy Traveler

Day 5: Toledo

Pick up a car at Madrid airport and drive to Toledo, a truly delightful place to visit. Perched high on a hill famously depicted in the painting View over Toledo by El Greco, Toledo pulses with history.

Walk the narrow streets, buy some objects made from the world-famous Toledo steel and check out the stunning cathedral.

Panorama of Toledo with the Alcantara Bridge – Spain

Day 6: Salamanca

We visited Salamanca on a driving trip that took us diagonally across northwest Spain from San Sebastian in the northeast to Salamanca in the west, near the Portuguese border and on the same latitude as Porto in northern Portugal.

I highly recommend adding Salamanca to your itinerary. It’s a laid-back, inviting, and friendly Spanish city with a fabulous art nouveau museum.

Enjoy a glass of wine in the massive Plaza Mayor, one of Europe’s most spectacular living rooms, and listen to roving bands of guitarists dressed in medieval garb play vaguely Mexican-sounding music.

Apparently, many people who emigrated to Mexico came from Salamanca and some of the wealthier ones have returned to make Salamanca prosperous. It certainly is a beautifully maintained city.

Days 7 to 10: Santiago de Compostela

Take your time driving from Salamanca to Santiago de Compostela, perhaps stopping enroute in Vigo before heading north. Santiago de Compostela can be crowded, but it’s a fascinating city to explore with an amazing food culture. Definitely check out some of its wonderful restaurants.

Days 11 to 16: Northern Spain

The landscape in the north is mountainous and lusciously green—not the seared brown plain you expect to see in Spain. You could easily spend a week traveling from west to east (or the reverse). I provide a suggested itinerary in my post Exploring Northern Spain & Basque Country.

Fuente Dé mountains in the Picos de Europa, Camaleño, Cantabria, Spain

You can also walk the width of northern Spain on the Camino. I haven’t, but I know many people who have, including guest poster Elizabeth Petrie. Read her two posts about her trip:

Days 17 to 18: Bilbao and San Sebastian

The big attraction in Bilbao is the Guggenheim, which you can see in a few hours, and then choose to move on to San Sebastian where sampling pinxhos makes for a fabulous evening out.

Day 19: Burgos

Break your journey between Bilbao and Madrid in historic Burgos. You’ll find lots there to keep you busy, including a visit to the terrific Museo de Evolución Humana (Museum of Human Evolution).

Days 20/21: Madrid

Drop your car at the airport, spend another night in Madrid (take in a flamenco show!), and start planning your next trip to Spain.

Tours in Spain

Here are some tours available through GetYourGuide:

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What Regions of Spain are Your Favorites?

Do you have a favorite region of Spain that I’ve left out? Please share your recommends in the Comments below.

Here are links to more of my posts about fantastic Spain:

How to Spend Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Beautiful Barcelona

Barcelona has much to offer the artsy traveler. You won’t see all of it in two days, but you will see the highlights and still have time to stroll Las Ramblas and eat great food.

In this post, I share my suggestions for how to spend two full days and three nights in Barcelona.

Arrival Day

Presuming you arrive in Barcelona mid to late afternoon, give yourself time to get settled, then spend your evening exploring your neighborhood. I suggest staying in the Eixample area, where you’ll find good hotels, leafy treed streets, and lots of restaurants.

Eixample Disctrict, Barcelona
Aerial straight down on the Eixample Disctrict, Barcelona

On a solo trip to Barcelona a few years ago, I was amazed at the number of restaurants a short distance from the Cram Hotel in the Eixample district where I stayed. Yes, that’s my last name, and no, they didn’t give me a discount, but they did give me a free breakfast! Apparently, I was the first person named Cram to stay there.

Each restaurant I passed in a short walk around the ‘hood had similar high levels of décor, ambiance, and, presumably, food. I opted for steak at an Argentinian restaurant, where the efficient, friendly and English-speaking waiter served the various components of my meal—wine, bread, pepper dip, roasted vegetables, steak, and agua con gaz—with North-American velocity.

I could have lingered longer. A flute player and a guitarist played vaguely- South-American-sounding music in the background. The restaurant flickered with candles against a décor of deep reds and warm browns. It was a lovely restaurant–one of hundreds throughout the city.

It’s remarkable that so many restaurants can be sustained, but Barcelona is hopping.

After dinner, stroll to the Plaça de Catalunya, do some people-watching, then carry on down Los Ramblas, a 1.2-kilometer-long boulevard in the center of Barcelona. Join the throngs of locals and tourists in the pedestrian-only middle section, browse the souvenir stands and shops, get a drink, and watch a few street performers.

Safety in Barcelona

I’ve heard stories about pickpockets and other scams in Barcelona. If someone approaches you and is overly friendly, telling you that you have dirt on your back, or worse, walk smartly away. Forget being polite.

Wear your money belt and stay alert. Barcelona is a big city with a lot of tourists. Don’t be paranoid, but do be aware that thieves are on the lookout for easy marks. Don’t be one of them!

Suggested Itinerary for Barcelona

For your two full days in Barcelona, I suggest you devote Day 1 to Gaudí-related sites, attend a concert at the Palau de la Música in the evening of either Day 1 or Day 2, then spend Day 2 enjoying Barcelona’s art museums, particularly the Picasso Museum and the Miró Foundation.

Day 1: Gaudí Barcelona

Antoni Gaudí was a Catalan architect known for his highly individualized modernista style. You’ll find him everywhere in Barcelona—from the colorful Gaudí-styled mugs in the souvenir shops (and yes, I have one) to modernista apartment blocks to Parc Güell, one of Europe’s most appealing parks, to the soaringly magnificent Sagrada Familia.

The best way to visit the many Gaudí sites in Barcelona is to hop on one of the Hop-on, Hop-off bus tours that prowl the streets of the city.

We did just that at the Playa Catalunya, and although the price was steep, we appreciated being able to watch Barcelona go by from the top deck as we moved from site to site. The subway is another option, but taking either the tour bus or the regular bus is more fun.

Casa Milà

Start at Casa Milà, known locally as La Pedrera, Gaudí’s super-famous apartment block. Get your tickets ahead of time to avoid a long wait. The building is something to see, with its sweeping molded balconies that don’t look real and its ornate interiors. A highlight are the dozens of whimsical chimney pots on the roof, from which you get great views of the city.

Get tickets for Casa Milà in advance!

The 4,500-square-meter building spread over five floors includes a museum, the reproduction of an early-20th-century apartment, an exhibition of Gaudí’s work, and the rooftop terrace.

Touring Casa Milà will take at least an hour.

Other Gaudí Buildings

Depending on your stamina and your interest in Gaudí, you may want to visit other notable Gaudí buildings. Here are two more.

Casa Batlló

Check out the colorful mosaics made of broken ceramic tiles that decorate the facade. Located at Passeig de Gràcia, 43.

Casa Vicens

Close-up of a strange window of Casa Batllò, a masterpiece by famous architect Antoni Gaudì.

Casa Vicens is one of Gaudí’s first buildings and considered one of the first modernist buildings in the world. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the building is a museum showcasing Gaudí’s work and includes temporary exhibitions. It’s located at Carrer de les Carolines, 20-26.

After all that Gaudí, you’ll be ready for lunch. Find a café and rest your weary feet for a while. Afterward, jump back on the bus and head to the Sagrada Familia.

Sagrada Familia

You must get tickets for the Sagrada Familia well in advance. This ticket lets you skip the line and includes a guided tour and tower visit.

Choose the time you want to go—say, 11 or noon, if you start your day at the Casa Milà.

Arrive at least thirty minutes early. You’ll still queue but not for as long as the people who didn’t plan ahead. In fact, if you don’t get advance tickets, you may end up waiting three hours or longer. When I visited at 3 pm, people were being told that the next entrance time was 6 pm.

Sagrada Familia in Barcelona
Sagrada Familia Temple in Barcelona

I visited on a sweltering August day. While waiting for my appointed time, I jotted down a few notes:

Sticky hot, sweat pooling, most voices are Spanish. Hear the occasional Brit; a family of Italians at the bench across the way is having a spirited argument. Everyone’s face is red and slick. Flies land on scratched skin and settle in until flicked off.

Wearing black jeans with a polyester top in 35-degree heat and what feels like 80% humidity is a misguided fashion choice. The first taste of cold agua con gaz is raw and life-giving–a torrent of bubbles blazing down a desperate throat.

Inside the Sagrada Familia

At your scheduled time, if you’re not taking a tour, join the hordes trudging around the perimeter of the basilica to the entrance for ticket holders, and pick up an audio guide (included in the ticket price and very informative) as you enter.

Stop and gasp.

The interior of the Sagrada Familia, although heaving with tourists snapping photos, is breathtaking. I can’t think of a better word. I’ve visited my share of cathedrals and have a soft spot for stained glass, but I’ve never seen stained glass used with such joyous abandon.

Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, Spain

Marvel at the abstract patterns in blues and golds and greens and reds that diffuse the Barcelona sun into fractured splashes of color across faces, walls, t-shirts, and floors. High above, star-shaped openings punch the roof to let the sun stream in like bolts of pure light.

Sink into a pew and just stare. The bustle of people surging around the area cordoned off for sitting and contemplating fades into hushed murmurs. Regardless of your religious convictions, you can’t help but appreciate the magnificence of the architecture as a fitting celebration of spirit. You may never want to leave.

The Sagrada Familia was started in the 1880s and is not yet finished. Cranes arch across the towers, and you’ll hear hammers pounding. After visiting the interior, take a leisurely walk around the building to admire the intricate sculptures encrusting the walls like artsy barnacles. 

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Parc Güell

If you’re visiting Barcelona in the summer, consider returning to your hotel to cool off for a while before venturing out to the Parc Güell. The Cram Hotel featured a rooftop pool that I was grateful for after my Sagrada Familia visit.

In the late afternoon, emerge refreshed and hop back on the bus. The Parc Güell features Gaudí’s fabulous mosaics and awesome views. When I visited with Gregg on a Sunday afternoon, we were convinced that half of Europe was in the park. We heard a lot of French, Italian, and Spanish but hardly any English.

Don’t miss the iconic Gaudí salamander, although you’ll be hard-pressed to get a people-free photo of it. Other attractions include the Hypostyle Room, Guard Museum, Gardens of Austria, and Nature Square.

The Dragon Salamander in the Parc Güell in Barcelona, Spain.
Parc Guell in Barcelona, Spain.

Get your tickets in advance to avoid line-ups and to guarantee entry.

Palau de la Música

Before you visit Barcelona, check the website to find out what’s on at the Palau de la Música. If tickets to a performance that interests you are available, get them. Sit up in the balcony to gape at the fabulous ceiling.

Interior of the Palau de la Musica in Barcelona
Interior of the Palau de la Música – take a guided tour

Another option is to visit the Palau de la Música on a guided tour. Whatever way you see this fabulous modernista building, make room for it in your Barcelona itinerary.

Day 2: Artsy Barcelona

Head first to the Barrí Gothic (Gothic Quarter) and get lost in its medieval streets. I love this part of Barcelona in the morning, when crowds are thin and the air is moderately cool.

Picasso Museum

After poking around the area, navigate to the Picasso Museum (Museu Picasso). Skip the line with a ticket you pre-purchased online and enjoy this homage to Picasso. You’ll see lots of work from his early years and get an excellent sense of his progression, from realism to abstraction and just about every 20th century art style in between, over the course of a very long life.

The museum also features special exhibitions that highlight aspects of Picasso’s work and relationships with other artists.

Consider a Picasso Walking Tour and Skip-the-Line ticket.

Barcelona Cathedral

Before you leave the Barrí Gothic, visit the Gothic-style cathedral, also known as La Seu. Notable is its 14th-century cloister full of palm trees and a Gothic portico where, apparently, 13 white geese wander. I didn’t count them.

The History Museum of Barcelona also looks intriguing although I haven’t yet visited.

Miró Foundation

The Fundació Joan Miró is fun to visit, whether or not you’re a Miró fan. The airy, light-filled building is part of its attraction. Designed by architect and city planner Josep Lluís Sert, the building is a leading example of avant-garde school of architecture in Catalonia.

If you’re new to Miró’s work, get the audio guide and learn what he was all about. His work makes me smile!

Where to Stay in Barcelona

For accommodation suggestions in Barcelona, see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Barcelona Tour Options

Here are some other tour options in Barcelona with Tiqets.com:

Barcelona Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Barcelona!

Have you visited Barcelona? Share your recommendations in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts about destination in Spain: