Exploring Spectacular Northern Spain & Basque Country: My Best Bets

Northern Spain stretches from the Atlantic to the Pyrenees, a distance of almost 700 kilometers. This area of Spain boasts extraordinary scenery and something else you won’t see much of in the rest of Spain: rain.

Galicia in the northwest corner of Spain is green and gorgeous, with a culture that owes more to its Celtic neighbors in Brittany and Cornwall than to the rest of Iberia.

You’ll find a lot to enjoy in northern Spain—historic Santiago de Compostela, the Picos de Europa mountains, pinchos (pintxos) in San Sebastian, and the Guggenheim Bilbao, one of Europe’s top modern art museums.

Devote at least a week to this area of Spain. To help you plan your tour of northern Spain, I’ve compiled a ten-day itinerary that starts in Santiago de Compostela and ends in San Sebastian.

Orientation to Northern Spain

The map below includes the places mentioned in this post. Click a number to find out more information.

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

Getting Around

My itinerary presumes you’re driving. It’s possible to visit this area by train, but if you rent a car you can explore more of this fascinating and beautiful region, particularly the Picos de Europa.

A Single Stop for European Rail Travel

Consider flying to Santiago de Compostela and touring the city for a few days before picking up your car and heading east. Drop it off in Bilbao and take a train to San Sebastian, or drive all the way to France and drop the car off there. Bordeaux is a convenient choice.

I suggest spending two days and three nights in Santiago de Compostela, one night on the north coast, three nights in or near Llanes to explore the Picos de Europa, one night in Santillana del Mar, one night in Bilbao, and one night in San Sebastian.

That’s a lot of one-night stands, so if you prefer and have the time, add more two-night stays. There’s a great deal to see in northern Spain!

Days 1 to 3: Santiago de Compostela

We spent a week in Santiago de Compostela a few years ago when Gregg had a major exhibition at the Granell Museum. The city of 100,000 people is a compact and lovely place with wonderful restaurants and parks and an atmospheric old town.

One of my favorite things to do was hanging out in the Praza do Obradoiro in front of the cathedral to watch Camino pilgrims enter the plaza. Santiago de Compostela, while not the actual end of the Camino de Santiago, is commonly the place most pilgrims stop.

The Cathedral at Santiago as seen from the Praza do Obradoiro
The Cathedral at Santiago as seen from the Praza do Obradoiro

It was moving to see the pilgrims enter the plaza. Some were limping after weeks on the road, and most carried their pilgrim’s staff topped with a distinctive scallop shell similar to the shells that mark the Camino route. I saw a lot of tears and hugs and selfies.

Catedral de Santiago de Compostela

Pilgrims crowd into the cathedral (#1) where the remains of Saint James are allegedly buried. The cathedral is a jumble of architectural styles— Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque. A highlight inside the west entrance is the Pórtico de la Gloria, containing 200 Romanesque sculptures dating from the late 12th century.

Truth be told, I found the cathedral dark and overcrowded, but there’s no denying the atmosphere of piety, particularly from the pilgrims who walked the Camino for religious reasons.

The Old Town

Wander the granite streets of the old town of Santiago, enjoying the arches, squares, and monuments that contributed to the city’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. You’ll find plenty of good shopping, particularly for jewelry. The atmosphere is laid-back and friendly, with throngs of students, pilgrims, tourists, and locals.

A street in the Old Town in Santiago de Compostela
A street in the Old Town in Santiago de Compostela

Parks and Museums

Alameda Park (#2) is a large green space, wonderful to chill out in away from the crowds in the Praza do Obradoiro. You also get a marvelous view of the cathedral from the park.

When Gregg was in Santiago on a solo trip, he came across a large group of people in traditional costumes playing instruments and dancing in San Domingos de Bonaval Park. Watch his video on YouTube. Notice how Celtic the music sounds with the drums and bagpipes—completely different from the flamenco rhythms in the south.

In Bonaval, you’ll also find the Galician Contemporary Art Centre and the Museum of the Galician People (Museo de Pobo Galego).

In Santiago de Compostela, you’ll notice that you’re in Galicia first, Spain second. Local people speak Galician and are proud of their heritage. You’ll be understood in Spanish, and likely in English, in restaurants and hotels.

On the Pazo de Bendaña, not far from the cathedral, is the Granell Museum, housed in a beautiful old Baroque building. If you’re a fan of Surrealism, check out this museum that includes an extensive collection of work by Eugenio Granell and other artists linked to Surrealism, including Marcel Duchamp, Max Ernst, Joan Miró, and Roberto Matta.

Dining in Santiago de Compostela

With so many students, tourists and pilgrims swelling its population every year, Santiago de Compostela has become known for its excellent restaurants. We enjoyed several memorable meals during our week-long visit. Check restaurant apps and reviews and make reservations.

Day 4: North Coast

Head north from Santiago de Compostela to the coast then meander eastwards into Asturias, stopping at one of the many beachside towns. Magnificent rock formations are a draw at Playa Las Catedrales (#3), located near Ribadeo on the north coast.

Playa Las Catedrales beach near Ribadeo, Galicia of Lugo, Spai
Playa Las Catedrales beach near Ribadeo, Galicia of Lugo, Spai

Slow down and get off the main roads. Oviedo, the capital of Asturias, is a possible stopping place for the night. The Fine Arts Museum of Asturias looks intriguing.

Days 4 to 5: Llanes and the Picos de Europa

You’ll encounter rugged mountain vistas as you continue east toward the Picos de Europa. The jagged peaks of Picos de Europa (#4) National Park, Spain’s first national park, are nicknamed “Spain’s Dolomites.”

The mountains straddle southeast Asturias, southwest Cantabria, and northern Castilla y León. If you’re a hiker, you’ll want to spend a few days here.

One option is to home-base in the charming coastal town of Llanes (pronounced YAH-ness).

We discovered Llanes (#5) by accident on our drive across northern Spain. For once, I hadn’t booked a hotel, deciding that we’d just stop driving when we got tired and hope for the best. I don’t recommend that approach, particularly in the busy summer months, but sometimes it’s fun to live dangerously!

I saw the sign for Llanes, figured it was as good a place as any, and directed Gregg to the old town.

What a fortuitous decision! The little seaside town of Llanes turned out to be delightful, with beautiful buildings covered in fine woodwork and small windows. An inland waterway lined on both sides with cafés runs through the town center. Pull up a chair in one of the cafés to enjoy some tapas and beer, and watch the boats go by.

Traditional houses in Llanes, Asturias, Spain.
Traditional houses in Llanes, Asturias, Spain.

Take a walk out to the breakwater. An artist has painted the huge concrete blocks that protect the town from high tides with all sorts of crazy patterns.

Painted cement blocks on the breakwater in Llanes, Spain
Painted cement blocks on a jetty in Llanes, Spain

Watch the sun set over the Atlantic and prepare to be enchanted.

Eat dinner at an outdoor café in the network of tiny lanes in the old town. Two three-course meals and several glasses of red wine cost us just €10. Now, that’s a bargain!

The waiter insisted on giving us several of his cards so we could tell everyone we met about his restaurant. We wandered back through picturesque squares to our hotel, situated in a renovated convent.

In the middle of the night, I woke up, terrified that something—someone—was in the room. Perhaps a nun, long dead, was not happy to find me sleeping in a room that had once been her cell. I was so frightened that I had to wake up Gregg!

Is it likely that thousands of years of history—much of it violent—has produced its share of discontented ghosts?

Maybe.

Day 6: Santillana del Mar

The Caves of Altamira are located close to Santillana del Mar (#6). Seventeen caves are decorated with art of the Paleolithic age dating from 35,000 to 11,000 BC. Because of their deep galleries, isolated from external climatic influences, these caves are particularly well preserved. You can visit the replica caves. Check out the official website.

Bilbao

The drive from Santillana del Mar along the coast to Bilbao (#7) is gorgeous. Get off the highway and explore some of the windswept, rock-choked coves. This part of northern Spain is spectacular.

Bilbao is a large port city with a tangle of highways leading to the Nervión River and the Guggenheim. Use your GPS to navigate into the city, and avoid hotels in the old town. We chose the Hotel Melià, a modern hotel on the river, which was easy to find and included a large parking garage.

The street signs written in the Euskara language are daunting and largely unpronounceable, at least for foreign tourists like us! Many of the streets have names consisting of 20 letters, most of which are X’s and Z’s. When you’re in Basque country, you may forget you’re still in Spain.

Fortunately, you’ll easily get by in Spanish and English.

The big attraction in Bilbao is the Guggenheim Museum (#8), one of the world’s top modern art museums. I love that the city of Bilbao decided to revitalize itself and attract tourist euros by building a world-class art museum. That choice showed vision along with a heartening belief in the importance of art and culture.

Exterior of Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, Basque, Spain
Exterior of Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, Basque, Spain

We chose one of the ultra-modern hotels in an ultra-modern area of Bilbao about a ten-minute stroll along the river from the Guggenheim. Read my suggestions for hotels in Bilbao in Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Likely your first view of the Guggenheim will be of Puppy, the colossal topiary of a West Highland White Terrier that stands guard in front of the museum. With its variegated coat of flowers that changes with the season, Puppy is remarkably photogenic.

Puppy at night in front of the Guggenheim Bilbao
Puppy at night in front of the Guggenheim Bilbao

After you’ve satiated your thirst for Puppy pics, walk around the building to admire the silvery-gold slabs of hammered, stamped steel of Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim and to view more of the modern sculptures.

You’ll see Anish Kapoor’s astonishing sculpture of huge silver orbs stacked almost as high as the roof of the museum and facing the river. The piece is perfectly situated to catch the sun, turning the entire column of orbs into one pulsing, glistening beacon. Another marvelous sculpture is Maman by Louise Bourgeois—a massive spider and not recommended for arachnophobes.

Once you’ve had your fill of the exterior, enter the Guggenheim and get your bearings. See what the special exhibition is, study the maps or download the app, and plan your route.

A highlight is the enormous sculpture by Richard Serra on the ground floor. The work consists of six steel slabs bent and curled in various ways that invite you into their depths to wander until you feel dizzy. We went into two of the sculptures, and that was enough! The effect is startling, and a little goes a long way.

When we visited, we saw a stylishly curated exhibition of new paintings and digital works by David Hockney.

Following your visit to the Guggenheim, stroll across the bridge to the old town to spend your evening enjoying tapas and drinks. On your way back, you’ll see the Guggenheim and Puppy evocatively floodlit.

San Sebastian

If you’re driving to San Sebastian—called Donostia (#9) by the Basques—your first view may be nondescript suburbs miles away from the famous sweep of beach. Persevere until you reach the water and the old town.

Our hotel was situated at the top of Mount Urgull, one of two mountains that flank San Sebastian. Here’s the stunning view of San Sebastian from near our hotel.

View over San Sebastian, Spain
Overview of the Bay of San Sebastian, Spain

Traffic in San Sebastian was remarkably sedate when we were there. Head for one of the big parking lots in the commercial center and then explore San Sebastian on foot.

San Sebastian consists of three main areas – the long sweep of beach bristling with frolicking holiday-makers, the modern town built on an easy-to-navigate grid system, and the old town with its narrow streets and intriguing aromas.

Spend your evening in San Sebastian bar-hopping in the old town to sample as many pinchos (pintxos) as possible.

Squeeze into a bar (they’re all crowded!), grab a plate, select a few cold pinchos from the platters lined up on the bar (so many varieties to choose from!), grab a glass of local wine, eat standing up amid the crowds, then saunter off to another place.

Platters of pinchos on a bar in San Sebastian
Spanish tapas called pintxos of the Basque country served on a bar counter in a restaurant in San Sebastian, Spain

Each pincho is a mini work of art. If you don’t see something you like on the cold platters, order hot pinchos listed on chalkboards behind the bar.

The incredibly efficient servers keep track of what you’ve eaten by the number of toothpicks left on your plate. You also crumple up your used napkins and throw them on the floor—a practice that takes some getting used to!

Go from bar to bar sampling two or three pinchos at each, along with a glass of wine. Prices are amazingly reasonable. Our evening of pincho-eating and wine-guzzling cost just €30, including two gelatos.

Everyone seemed in great humor. Families with little kids filled the streets late into the evening. The San Sebastian people know how to live!

Where to Stay in Northern Spain

For accommodation suggestions in Santiago de Compostela, Llanes, San Sebastian, and Bilbao, see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Other Tour Options in Northern Spain

Here are some more tour options in northern Spain offered through GetYourGuide:

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Conclusion

Have you been to northern Spain? Please share your experiences and tips with other artsy travelers in the Comments section below.

Here are more posts about Spain on Artsy Traveler:


Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, Spain, one of the top ten modern art museums in Europe

12 of the Best Modern Art Museums in Europe

Are you a fan of modern art? If so, then you’ll find plenty of art thrills in Europe, where some of the best modern and contemporary art museums in the world are located.

In this post, I’ve chosen mostly large museums that feature a variety of artists.

My focus is on modern art so you won’t find museums like the Prado and the Louvre in this post. But you will find the Pompidou, the Guggenheim Bilbao and the Tate Modern!

A travel pin with the text “Best Modern Art Museums in Europe” overlaid on a metallic facade of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. The website "artsytraveler.com" is displayed at the bottom.

As a life-long lover of modern art (check out my husband Gregg Simpson’s art and you’ll see why!), I’m a bit of a kid in a candy store when it comes to finding awesome modern art museums in Europe.

You’ll be spoiled for choice!

Highlights at a Glance

  • The iconic architecture of the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao in Spain’s evocative Basque Country
  • Picasso’s Guernica at the Reina Sofia in Madrid, Spain–so much more powerful in person than in reproductions
  • The stunning outdoor art installations at the Kröller-Müller Museum near Otterlo in the Netherlands
  • The collection of 20th century modern masters on the 4th floor of the Pompidou in Paris
  • The location and ambiance of the Fondation Maeght in the hills above the French Riviera near the delightful village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Check for Exhibitions

Before you set off for Europe, take some time to check for special exhibitions in the places you’re visiting. Many times, I’ve changed my itinerary on the fly to catch an exhibition before it closes or to take in one at its start.

One of the great pleasures of traveling is switching gears halfway through a trip—to zig when you planned to zag. Stay open to possibilities when you travel. Often, you’ll meet someone who’ll tell you about a must-see art museum that you’ve never heard of.

On a recent trip to Porto in Portugal, we were told about a special exhibition of the work of M. C. Escher. What a treat! We never would have known about it because of its location in an exhibition space rather than a museum.

A man standing in an optical illusion room at the Escher exhibition in Porto. The black-and-white checkered floor enhances the distorted perception of space.
Artist & usual travel companion Gregg Simpson at the M. C. Escher special exhibition in Porto

Chat with servers at dinner and strike up a conversation with other travelers you meet on the train or at your hotel. People love to share recommendations!

Modern Art Focus

As I mentioned earlier, this post focuses only on museums with significant and varied modern art collections.

What do I mean by modern art? I’m a huge fan of 20th-century art from about the turn of the century to the 1960s. I also appreciate some (not all) of the contemporary art created post-1960.

Most of the art museums covered in this post primarily exhibit traditional modern art. That sounds like an oxymoron, but if you’re an art fan, you’ll know what I mean!

Modern art—as distinct from contemporary art—encompasses the work of a slew of big names. These include Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, Henri Matisse, Georgia O’Keeffe, Rene Magritte… the list goes on and on and on.

In this post, I list only museums that works by modern masters in their permanent collections

Map of Modern Art Museums in Europe

Here are the locations of all the modern art museums covered in the post–from Bilbao (#1) in Spain to the Tate St. Ives (#12) in Cornwall, England.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

Bilbao, Spain: The Guggenheim Museum

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao (#1 on the map) is worth the hype and worth the trip. Located in the Basque region of northeast Spain, Bilbao isn’t on the beaten tourist path.

But please, if you’re in northern Spain and within striking distance of Bilbao, find the time to spend a night there.

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao was built to revive the failing industrial city. How marvelous that the city bigwigs used art to pull their city out of the economic doldrums and place it firmly on the world cultural map.

The move was bold, even audacious, but it’s paid off spectacularly, thanks to Frank Gehry’s awesome structure.

Now the Guggenheim Bilbao shows up in just about every Top Ten list of modern art museums worldwide.

Exterior of the Guggenheim Bilbao

The exterior of the Guggenheim Bilbao plays a major role in its spectacular appeal to art lovers. Stroll around outside the building to see the many amazing sculptures.

Most notable are Tall Trees and The Eye by Anish Kapoor, the massive spider Maman by Louise Bourgeois, and the wildly popular Puppy by Jeff Koons.

I defy anyone to stand in front of Puppy and not smile. He is adorable. That is, if a 43-foot tall, flower-encrusted West Highland Terrier can be called adorable. 

Exterior of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao with the sculpture Tall Tree & The Eye by Anish Kapoor. The reflective silver spheres contrast with the modern metallic facade of the museum.
Sculpture by Anish Kapoor
A giant bronze spider sculpture titled Maman by Louise Bourgeois outside the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. Visitors walk beneath the towering sculpture, casting intricate shadows on the ground.
Sculpture called Maman by Louise Bourgeois

Inside the Guggenheim Bilbao

The museum’s interior is as compelling as its exterior.

On one of our visits, we were lucky to catch a major exhibition of recent landscapes by David Hockney. The massive galleries and thoughtful curatorial choices made the exhibition one of our favorites, which is saying something.

We were also taken with the massive installations by Frank Serra. 

The whole complex with its gorgeous setting on the Nervion River really is miraculous. The museum attracts over 20 million visitors annually.

Now, that’s an art success story!

Exhibitions at the Guggenheim Bilbao change frequently so check what’s on and then plan your visit accordingly. You won’t regret devoting time to exploring the Basque region of Spain. 

Practical Information for the Guggenheim Bilbao

Guggenheim Bilbao is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 7 pm. It’s closed on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. Museum admission currently costs €15 for adults, €7.5 for seniors (65+) and students. Youths under 18 and Museum members are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Tours of the Guggenheim Bilbao

A great way to see the Guggenheim Bilbao is on a private tour if you have the spare funds or a small group tour for the budget-conscious. Modern art is sometimes not so easy to understand, and having a guide can really help you make sense of what you’re looking at.

You’ll also learn a lot about the stunning architecture and permanent installations such as Puppy and Maman. Here’s a private tour offered through GetYour Guide:

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Where to Stay in Bilbao

On both my trips to Bilbao, I stayed in excellent four-star hotels. Both were within walking distance of the Guggenheim Bilbao.

Catalonia Gran Vía Bilbao: In downtown Bilbao, this place is truly lovely with a very friendly staff and a good location for exploring more of Bilbao beyond the Guggenheim.

Hotel Meliá Bilbao: Situated right on the river, the modern hotel has all the amenities and is fairly easy to drive to.


Bratislava, Slovakia: Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum

Situated on the Danube as the name suggests and about 20 kilometers from Bratislava in the Slovak Republic, the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum is billed as “one of the most romantic museums of modern art in Europe”.

The museum, opened in 2000, was founded by Gerard Meulensteen of Eindhoven, a Dutch collector and art patron, and Slovak gallerist Vincent Polakovič.

Night view of the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum in Bratislava, Slovakia. The building, illuminated by bright lights, reflects onto the still river water under a deep blue sky.
Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum website. Used with permission

The collection includes works by artists from the experimental CoBrA group in the Netherlands, such as Karel Appel and Eugen Brands . Also included are works by Sam Francis, Christo, Corneille, Pierre Alechinsky, and others. 

Plenty of quirky and colorful outdoor sculptures along with the dramatic setting on the Danube make this museum a must-see if you’re traveling to Bratislava.

Outdoor sculptures at the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum in Bratislava, Slovakia. Geometric metal figures and colorful abstract shapes stand on a manicured lawn beside the river, surrounded by trees and a walking path.
Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum website. Used with permission.

Practical Information for the Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum

Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm. Museum admission currently costs €10 for adults, €5 for seniors (62+) and students. Children under 6, seniors (75+) and Museum members are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Where to Stay in Bratislava

The Danubiana Museum is a few kilometers up river from Bratislava itself where you’ll find these two hotels. Both are located in historic buildings and highly rated.

Marrol’s Boutique Hotel: Located in Bratislava city center, this hotel is rated 5-star, but the price is more like a 3-star. It looks amazing!

Arcadia Boutique Hotel: Centrally located in a 13th-century building in Bratislava’s Old Town. Rooms include antique furniture.


London, England: Tate Modern

I’ve visited the Tate Modern in London a few times and have mixed feelings about it, to be honest! It’s a monumental place and a huge accomplishment from an architectural perspective.

I mean, seriously—a power station?

It’s pretty darned amazing that Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron could convert the Bankside power station into an art gallery and still keep much of the building’s original character.

The Tate Modern art museum in London, with its tall chimney and modern extension, viewed from across the River Thames on a clear day.
View of the Tate Modern from the Thames in London, England

I can’t say I loved—or even liked—all the art exhibited in the Tate Modern. Several exhibits comprise contemporary and installation art, most of which was kind of hit or miss, in my opinion.

However, the special exhibitions can be spectacular. I saw a wonderful retrospective of the work of American artist Georgia O’Keeffe on one visit, and an exhibition of international surrealism on another visit. My husband, Gregg Simpson, was honored to be included in the catalog for the latter exhibition.

Location of the Tate Modern

The location of the Tate Modern on the south side of the Thames, right across the new Millennium Bridge from St. Paul’s Cathedral, is a selling point. You can see the Tate Modern in the morning and then stroll across the bridge and visit St. Paul’s and the City in the afternoon.

You can also take in two Tates in a day. A good strategy is to start at the Tate Britain upriver. Check out the paintings by William Blake and some of the best works by the pre-Raphaelites. Then, hop on the Tate Boat at Millbank Pier and sail downriver to Bankside Pier to see the Tate Modern.

The Tate Boat runs every twenty to thirty minutes along the Thames.

And if you happen be down in St. Ives in Cornwall, don’t miss the Tate St. Ives.

Practical Information for the Tate Modern

Tate Modern is open daily from 10 am – 6 pm and the admission is free.

Tours of the Tate Modern

Why not take a tour of the Tate Modern with an expert guide? You’ll learn about the history and architecture of the gallery along with highlights of the collection. Here’s a link to the guided tour on GetYourGuide:

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Where to Stay in London

I always stay around the West End so I’m within walking distance of the theaters, Trafalgar Square and two of my favorite art museums–the National Gallery and the Courtauld. Here are three places I’ve stayed in that I recommend and that won’t break the bank (and are still four-star and comfy):

Wilde Aparthotel Covent Garden: Located steps from the Strand in the center of the action, the Wilde Aparthotel Covent Garden is an excellent choice. I even wrote a whole post about my stay there!

The Cavendish near Green Park is in a posh area and close to just about everything.

Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel is located right across the street from Victoria Station and is a remarkably good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.


Madrid, Spain: Reina Sofia

The Reina Sofia is home to one of the most famous paintings of the 20th century—Guernica by Pablo Picasso.

You’ve likely seen Guernica many times in reproduction. However, seeing the “real thing” is a different story.

The massive mural in the Reina Sofía has pride of place in a room of its own. You can sense how enraged Picasso must have felt as he painted it. Its graphic depiction of the bombing of the old Basque city of Gernika in April 1937 has become an iconic image of the brutality of war. 

A large outdoor mosaic version of Picasso's Guernica, depicting distorted figures and animals in shades of black, white, and gray, mounted on a stone wall with the inscription “Guernica Gernikara.”
Outdoor reproduction of Guernica by Picasso / Image by Almudena Sanz from Pixabay

The Reina Sofia is a beautifully designed gallery that combines a modern area with the arched hallways and barred windows of an old hospital. In several rooms, films representing specific 20th-century periods are running. Most are silent-era films, which makes following them a lot easier if your Spanish is minimal.

Included in the Reina Sofia are masterpieces by Salvador Dalí, Joan Miró, and Juan Gris, as well as a collection of over 22,400 works divided into three sections titled: The Irruption of the 20th Century: Utopia and Conflict (1900-1945)Is the War Over? Art in a Divided World (1945-1968), and From Revolt to Postmodernity (1962-1982).  

Visiting the Reina Sofía

The museum is located on the Art Walk (Paseo del Arte)—a one-kilometer stretch that also includes the must-see Prado Museum and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum.

Practical Information for the Reina Sofia

Reina Sofia is open from daily except Tuesdays from 10 am to 9 pm (Sundays until 2:30 pm). Museum admission currently costs €12. The website has the latest rates.

Tours of the Reina Sofia

Explore the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, Spain’s national museum of 20th-century art, on a guided tour and learn about the diverse collection.

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Where to Stay in Madrid

Stay as close to the centro as you can in Madrid. Largely traffic free, the centro is full of narrow streets and grand plazas, and not too far from Madrid’s three big museums, including the Reina Sofia.

ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini: I stayed here for two weeks and loved it! The location right across the street from the Royal Palace puts it about a ten minute walk from the centro, but still outside the traffic limited zone so you can drive there and park in the parking lot right next door. The staff are wonderful and the one-bedroom apartment spacious and comfortable.

nQn Aparts & Suites Madrid: This place is even closer to the city center within steps of the Plaza Mayor.


Munich, Germany: Pinakothek der Moderne

The Pinakothek der Modern in central Munich is one of three Pinakotheks in Munich’s Kunstareal (art district).

The museum features an excellent collection of the works of German Expressionist artists. In addition, you’ll find works by modern masters, including Picasso, Miró, Kandinsky, Klee, and Marc.

Other exhibits are related to form and function in a section that features modern industrial design and manufacture, furniture, and appliances.

On Sundays, the admission price is significantly discounted—at least it was when I visited. After strolling through the galleries, stop by the café.

Practical Information for the Pinakothek der Moderne

Pinakothek der Moderne is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (Thursdays to 8 pm). Museum admission currently costs €10 for adults, €7 for seniors (65+) and students. Youths under 18 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Interesting Art Tour in Munich

After touring the Pinakothek der Moderne, keep the art juices flowing by taking this intriguing-looking street art bike tour with GetYourGuide. There’s a lively street art scene in Munich, a city that pioneered the graffiti movement in Germany in the 1980s.

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Where to Stay in Munich

Boutique Hotel Splendid: Located in the center of Munich within easy walking distance of many attractions. Comfortable rooms.

Andaz Munich Schwabinger Tor, By Hyatt: This is a bit of a splurge, but its location next to the English Garden is great if you’re looking for a stroll in nature after touring Munich’s museums. The buffet breakfast here was the most opulent I’ve ever seen.


Otterlo, Netherlands: Kröller-Müller Museum

I was 18 years old and traveling on my own for the first time in Europe when I visited the Kröller-Müller Museum. Located in the fantastically unexpected Dutch National Park (Nationaal Park De Hoge Veluwe) outside Otterlo and not far from Arnhem, this museum is a must-see

To say that the Kröller-Müller blew me away that first visit would be an understatement. Fresh off the plane from North America, I’d seen nothing like it in my North-American life.

The Kröller-Müller Museum is light, airy, and filled with famous works by van Gogh and a load of other great painters.

Even better, the museum is smack in the middle of the Dutch National Park. This amazing park teems with deer, rolling sand hills, intriguing forests, and miles of bike paths.

Visiting the Kröller-Müller Museum

When I revisited the museum with Gregg recently, I was thrilled to discover that the Kröller-Müller and the park are as awesome as I remembered.

Everything about the place is perfect!

The museum includes dozens of paintings by van Gogh, room after room of other greats from the 19th and early 20th centuries, a massive sculpture garden, and even a bustling outdoor café with excellent food.

The word that comes to mind when touring the sculpture garden is serendipity. The sculptures are modern and diverse and often positioned in unexpected places.

Every turn of a pathway through forests and across green clipped lawns reveals yet another vista and another sculpture—stone or wood or marble, some moving, some static, some aesthetically stunning, some quirky, a few ugly, and yet all perfect. 

A smooth, white abstract sculpture reflects in a pond, surrounded by lush greenery at the Kröller-Müller Museum's sculpture garden in the Netherlands.
Floating sculpture on the grounds of the Kröller-Müller Museum in the Netherlands

Getting to the Kröller-Müller Museum

If you’re a fan of van Gogh and modern sculpture but haven’t visited the Kröller-Müller, then go.

Take a day tour from Amsterdam, or better, drive and stay a few days in the area. We combined our visit to the Kröller-Müller with a bike ride around a portion of the 55-square-kilometer national park.

Explore a remarkably varied landscape that includes stunningly beautiful forests, heathlands, and sand dunes. You’ll spot impressively antlered deer, wild boar, foxes, sheep, and more.

A majestic red deer stag walks across a field of purple heath, with a dense forest in the background at a Dutch national park.
Red deer stag in the Dutch National Park at Hoge Veluwe

Practical Information for the Kröller-Müller Museum

Kröller-Müller Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm. Museum admission currently costs €13.50 for adults, €6.75 for youths (13 – 18). Children under 12 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates. Plaese note that the museum is located in the middle of De Hoge Veluwe National Park. Therefore, you also have to buy a ticket for the park that costs €13.40 for age 13 and older, and €6.70 for ages 6 -12.

Tour to the Kröller-Müller from Amsterdam

This full-day tour is a great option if you don’t have your own transport. The tour goes from Amsterdam and includes time to explore the awesome Hoge Veluwe National Park.

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Where to Stay near the Kröller-Müller Museum

The Kröller-Müller Museum is in a lovely rural area of the Netherlands. You can choose to stay near the museum or in nearby Arnhem. Here’s the place I stayed in:

Fletcher Hotel-Restaurant De Buunderkamp: This place is nestled in the woods not far from the Kröller-Müller Museum. Rooms are spacious and there’s an indoor pool. You can even rent bikes to explore the area, which we did and it was gorgeous!


Paris, France: Centre Pompidou

My most recent experience with the Pompidou Center (one of my absolute favorite modern art museums in Europe) was fraught with pure terror.

Gregg and I were trying to find an art gallery on an obscure side street that even Google Maps couldn’t find. The gallery was hosting an exhibition of Gregg’s work, so finding it was a matter of some urgency.

I directed Gregg to turn down what I trusted was the right street. He drove a short block over cobblestones to emerge into a wide, pedestrian-only space that butted up against the back end of the massive Pompidou Center. 

Mon Dieu!

I looked up at the crazy exoskeleton of pipes and glass that had horrified Parisians when it was first built and yelled a few choice curses into my phone. The Google Maps lady was not impressed. She continued to insist that we drive across the square.

The exterior of the Centre Pompidou in Paris, with its exposed framework, red escalator tube, and banners promoting current exhibitions.
Exterior of the Pompidou Center in Paris

Luckily, the space was relatively empty of people (a rare event) so Gregg was able to execute a hasty U-turn and head smartly down the correct street. The only problem was that the street was one-way, and we were barreling down it the wrong way.

Fortunately, we found the gallery without having a head-on collision. A few hours later, after unloading the paintings and hanging the show, we were swanning about the vernissage (the opening), champagne glasses in hand.

Phew!

Visiting the Centre Pompidou

Every time we visit Paris, we make a beeline for the Pompidou. Its special exhibitions are almost always excellent.

Check what’s on before coming to Paris and adjust your dates accordingly. One of our favorite special exhibitions featured the work of Gerhard Richter way back in 2012. I was impressed both by the range and styles of Richter’s work and the thoughtful way in which the exhibit was curated. 

No matter when you go to the Pompidou, you’ll always have the legendary fourth floor to wander through. This floor features the museum’s permanent collection and is a veritable “who’s who” of early 20th-century modern art.

All the most famous names are represented. Enjoy strolling through the rooms picking out your favorites and reveling in the glorious mishmash of colors and forms that characterizes 20th-century modern art.

After sighing your way around the art, take the escalator to the rooftop to relish one of the best views of the Paris skyline.

Practical Information for the Pompidou Center

Centre Pompidou is open daily except Tuesdays from 11 am to 9 pm. Museum admission currently costs €18. The website has the latest rates.

Tour of the Pompidou Center

This 2-hour private tour of the Pompidou lets you skip the line and provides expert commentary on the world’s largest collection of contemporary art. It’s a bit pricey but you’ll learn a lot!

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Where to Stay in Paris

I favor staying on the Left Bank when I’m in Paris, preferably Saint Germain, although that area is getting pretty very expensive. In Paris, an apartment or aparthotel may be your best bet. Hotel rooms tend to be very small.

Here are three of my recommendations for places to stay in Paris on the Left Bank.

Hotel de L’Université: I love the location of this boutique hotel–close to Boulevard Saint Germain and the Seine but a bit removed from the busiest areas of Saint Germain. Rooms are quite spacious (for Paris) and the old beams in the ceiling are a nice touch.

Citadines Saint-Germain-des-Prés: This aparthotel is part of the Citadines chain and is good value considering the excellent location right on the Seine in the 6th arrondisement.

Le Clos Medicis: Located very close to the Jardin du Luxembourg, this charming boutique hotel has attractive rooms and a very comfy lobby.


Rome’s National Gallery of Modern Art (Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna) is conveniently located on the edge of the Borghese Gardens, surely one of Europe’s most beguiling parks. 

A serene view of the Temple of Asclepius in the Villa Borghese gardens, Rome, reflected in a calm lake, framed by trees with a clear blue sky overhead.
View of the Temple of Asclepius at Villa Borghese Gardens in Rome

The gallery features an excellent collection of 20th-century Italian painters, including Giorgio de Chirico (a particular favorite), Amedeo Modigliani, Antonio Canova, Giacomo Balla, and Giorgio Morandi.

You’ll also find works by Rodin, Degas, van Gogh, Monet, Duchamp, Man Ray, and Pollock.

Unlike the Vatican and the other Renaissance and ancient Roman attractions of Rome, the National Gallery of Modern Art is sparsely attended and therefore extremely pleasant.

After your visit, stroll along the shaded pathways of the Borghese Gardens. 

National Gallery of Modern Art is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 7 pm. The admission currently costs €10. The website has the latest rates.

The very popular Borghese Gallery is close by. Here’s an option that inclues a guided tour with your tickets. The Borghese is well worth a visit, and houses one of my favorite Baroque sculptures by Bernini.

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Where to Stay in Rome

I favor staying in apartments when in Rome because I’m usually staying at least a week. Here are two of the apartments I’ve stayed in that provided excellent value in great locations:

Viam 16b Suites: I loved this place! It’s located on a tiny side street close to the Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps in an upscale area of Rome. Unlike many apartments in Rome, the Viam 16b Suites is staffed during the day. Our suite included an outdoor terrace.

Sant’Angelo Apartments: The location deep in the ancient Jewish Ghetto is a big selling point and the apartment itself is comfortable, albeit a bit dark. But walk out your front door and you’r’re steps from Roman ruins.


Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France: Fondation Maeght

The Fondation Maeght makes just about every list of must-see art museums in Europe. While not the largest modern art museum in Europe, the Maeght is one of the most respected and also the most beautifully situated.

The Maeght is near the charming village of Saint Paul-de-Vence, not far from Cannes and Nice in the south of France

A smiling woman in a blue dress and sunglasses stands near a black sculpture resembling an eye with a trident, by Joan Miró, surrounded by lush greenery and trees at the Fondation Maeght.
On the grounds of the fabulous Fondation Maeght in the south of France

I can’t say that every exhibition we’ve seen at the Fondation Maeght has been great. However, you still ought to visit if you’re in the area. When the exhibitions are good, they are extremely good.

The Fondation Maeght is a private foundation that was conceived and funded by Aimé and Marguerite Maeght to exhibit modern art. The Maeghts had several artist friends, including Georges Braque, Alexander Calder, Marc Chagall, Alberto Giacometti, Fernand Léger, and Joan Miró, who from the get-go donated or sold their work to the Foundation.

As Miró emphasized, the Fondation Maeght “…must before all be a place for art that remains alive.”

Visiting the Fondation Maeght

We first visited the Fondation Maeght in the 1990s during our first family trip to Europe with our young daughter. It was love at first sight!

Highlights include the giant sculptures by so many of the great 20th-century modern artists, including Miró, Giacometti, Arp, and Calder; spectacular views across the hills of the Riviera to the turquoise Mediterranean; and an airy modernist gallery. 

You can visit the Fondation Maeght on a tour, but you’d be best off spending at least a few nights exploring the area and visiting the Maeght for a few hours at the beginning or end of the day when the light is best for photography.  

Practical Information for the Fondation Maeght

Fondation Maeght is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm (July and Augusut to 7pm). The admission currently costs €18 for adults, €14 for youths (16 – 18), students, press and unemployed visitors. Children under 16 and disabled visitors are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Tour of Medieval Villages

If you don’t have a car, this tour of medieval villages that goes from Nice stops in Saint-Paul-de Vence for 1.5 hours, which is enough time for a flying visit to the Fondation Maeght.

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Where to Stay in Saint Paul-de-Vence

The village of Saint Paul-de-Vence has been well and truly discovered and accommodations there are not budget-friendly. Here are two options:

Le Hameau: Located in an 18th-century farmhouse with a view of the valley and the village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, this place is close to the Fondation and includes a gorgeous pool

Hotel Marc-Hely: Located a few kilometers away in La Colle-sur-Loup, this comfortable hotel room included a balcony and very friendly properietors.


Venice, Italy: Peggy Guggenheim Collection

If I were to pick a favorite modern art museum from this Must-See list, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice would rank in the top three.

Located right smack on the Grand Canal in the Dorsoduro district of magical Venice between Santa Maria della Salute and the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection just makes me smile. I can’t visit it often enough!

A woman posing beside a bronze sculpture of a stylized figure riding an animal, located in front of the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, which features ornate iron window grilles and stone steps.
Carol next to a statue of a horse in front of the Peggy
Guggenheim Museum in Venice.

The museum houses Peggy Guggenheim’s personal collection of 20th-century art, including masterpieces of cubism, surrealism, and abstract expressionism.

Gregg is a huge fan of Max Ernst, to whom Peggy was married for a time. Several of Ernst’s marvelous paintings are featured in the collection. Other artists in the permanent collection include Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian.

It really is an embarrassment of 20th-century riches.

If you’re in Venice, take a break from the Renaissance and cross the canal to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Wander the cool halls of her renovated palazzo to view the paintings and sculptures, then descend the steps to the edge of the canal and watch the boats go by. 

A panoramic view of Venice's Grand Canal with historic buildings lining the waterway, boats navigating the canal, and the iconic dome of Santa Maria della Salute under a partly cloudy sky.
Venice panorama city skyline at Venice Grand Canal, Venice Italy

Practical Information for the Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Peggy Guggenheim Collection is open daily except Tuesdays from 10 am to 6 pm. The admission currently costs €16 for adults, €14 for seniors (70+), €9 for students under 26. Members and children under 10 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Art Tour in the Dorsoduro

This private art and culture tour includes both the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the wonderful collection of Venetian art at the Accademia.

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Where to Stay in Venice

Venice is expensive, but splurge and stay in a central area of this remarkable city rather than in nearby Mestre. Venice at night is the best. Streets that are thronged during the day become dark and empty and you’re bound to get lost on your back back to your accommodations. But you’re on an island and eventually you’ll find your way through alleyways that look like they haven’t changed in centuries, which is pretty much the case.

San Teodoro Palace: This one-bedroom apartment is huge by Venice standards and located steps from the Rialto Bridge in a very lively and touristy area.

Ca’ Mirò: Settle into this two-floor apartment in a quiet area of Venice not far from the train station and become a temporary Venetian. It’s gorgeous.


Louisiana Museum of Modern Art Near Copenhagen, Denmark

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (#11 on the map at the top of this post) is about a 30-minute train ride north of Copenhagen. It’s world-renowned as one of Europe’s best modern art museums, and therefore a must-visit for the Artsy Traveler!

Check what exhibitions are on, but even if they don’t appeal, visit the museum anyway. It makes for a lovely morning out from Copenhagen. You reach it by train (covered by the Copenhagen Card) followed by a pleasant 20-minute stroll along a suburban road to the museum.

After visiting the exhibitions, head outside where the real stars of the museum are located.

A whimsical bronze sculpture of a rounded humanoid figure with oversized eyes, standing outdoors surrounded by trees and greenery.
Sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art near Copenhagen, Denmark

Practical Information for the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is open from 11 am to 10 pm on Tuesdays to Fridays and 11 am to 6 pm on Saturdays and Sundays. The admission currently costs DKK 145 for adults, DKK 125 for students. Louisiana members and youths under 18 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Day Tour from Copenhagen

Here’s a private day tour to Louisiana Museum of Modern Art from Copenhagen with Viator, or on another day, consider this day trip from Copenhagen with GetYourGuide to three interesting destinatoins outside Copenhagen: Kronborg, Frederiksborg Castle and Roskilde:

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Where to Stay in Copenhagen

Here are two recommended places to stay in Copenhagen, both in the atmospheric Nyhavn area. See my post about both places for more details.

Sanders Haven: This huge apartment is one of the best places I’ve stayed anywhere in Europe (which is saying something). If it’s available, book it!

Phoenix Copenhagen: A stylishly upscale hotel in the Nyhavn area with friendly staff.


Tate St. Ives in Cornwall, England

The Tate St. Ives (#12) is a delightfully compact and easy-to-tour museum overlooking the sea in lovely little St. Ives. I visited on a recent trip to Cornwall, and was lucky to sit in on two curator talks about local artist Robert Lanyon. Here’s one of his pieces.

An abstract painting with swirling strokes of blue, red, white, and black hues, featuring bold, chaotic lines and textures in a wooden frame.
Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon

Practical Information for Tate St. Ives

Tate St. Ives is open daily from 10 am to 4:20 pm. The admission currently costs £13.50 and visitors aged under 18 is admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Entry to the Barbara Hepworth Museum

A few minutes’ walk from the tate St. Ives is the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden. This place is well worth a visit if you’re a fan of world renowned sculptor Barbara Hepworth. Here’s a link to tickets to the site.

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Where to Stay in St. Ives

St. Ives is a popular holiday area in Cornwall. Here are two options with sea views:

Harbour Hotel & Spa St. Ives: An upscale choice with views across St. Ives Bay with elegant rooms.

Tregenna Castle Resort: Why not stay in a castle! This place is about a kilometer from St. Ives and overlooks the Cornish coast. It even has a heated indoor swimming pool and an outdoor seasonal heated swimming pool.

Sightseeing Tips

I highly recommend purchasing tickets ahead of time when you’re traveling in Europe. Major art museums are increasingly crowded, with long lines that sap your sightseeing energy. Who can enjoy art after standing for an hour under the hot sun waiting to buy tickets?

Purchase your tickets well in advance of your visit or even the night before from your hotel room. Then enjoy a leisurely breakfast before strolling straight into the museum past the long lines of tourists who did not book ahead.

You’ll be sighing in front of some of the world’s great masterpieces in no time!

I prefer to use just a few websites to book all my tickets so I can easily keep track of which venue I’m seeing on which day. You can also book tickets directly with most of the venues.

I keep all my tickets easily available on my phone which is why I use Tiqets.com, GetYourGuide, and Viator.

Conclusion

Have you visited any of these modern art museums in Europe? What are your suggestions and recommendations for fellow artsy travelers? Please share them in the Comments below.

Looking for more great art? Here are posts on a few more of my favorite art museums in Europe: