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Exploring Spectacular Northern Spain & Basque Country: My Best Bets

January 21, 2020October 15, 2024Destinations, Spain carolcram 1 Comment

Last updated on October 15th, 2024 at 12:59 am

Northern Spain stretches from the Atlantic to the Pyrenees, a distance of almost 700 kilometers. This area of Spain boasts extraordinary scenery and something else you won’t see much of in the rest of Spain: rain.

Galicia in the northwest corner of Spain is green and gorgeous, with a culture that owes more to its Celtic neighbors in Brittany and Cornwall than to the rest of Iberia.

You’ll find a lot to enjoy in northern Spain—historic Santiago de Compostela, the Picos de Europa mountains, pinchos (pintxos) in San Sebastian, and the Guggenheim Bilbao, one of Europe’s top modern art museums.

Devote at least a week to this area of Spain. To help you plan your tour of northern Spain, I’ve compiled a ten-day itinerary that starts in Santiago de Compostela and ends in San Sebastian.

Orientation to Northern Spain

The map below includes the places mentioned in this post. Click a number to find out more information.

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

Getting Around

My itinerary presumes you’re driving. It’s possible to visit this area by train, but if you rent a car you can explore more of this fascinating and beautiful region, particularly the Picos de Europa.

Consider flying to Santiago de Compostela and touring the city for a few days before picking up your car and heading east. Drop it off in Bilbao and take a train to San Sebastian, or drive all the way to France and drop the car off there. Bordeaux is a convenient choice.

I suggest spending two days and three nights in Santiago de Compostela, one night on the north coast, three nights in or near Llanes to explore the Picos de Europa, one night in Santillana del Mar, one night in Bilbao, and one night in San Sebastian.

That’s a lot of one-night stands, so if you prefer and have the time, add more two-night stays. There’s a great deal to see in northern Spain!

Days 1 to 3: Santiago de Compostela

We spent a week in Santiago de Compostela a few years ago when Gregg had a major exhibition at the Granell Museum. The city of 100,000 people is a compact and lovely place with wonderful restaurants and parks and an atmospheric old town.

One of my favorite things to do was hanging out in the Praza do Obradoiro in front of the cathedral to watch Camino pilgrims enter the plaza. Santiago de Compostela, while not the actual end of the Camino de Santiago, is commonly the place most pilgrims stop.

The Cathedral at Santiago as seen from the Praza do Obradoiro

It was moving to see the pilgrims enter the plaza. Some were limping after weeks on the road, and most carried their pilgrim’s staff topped with a distinctive scallop shell similar to the shells that mark the Camino route. I saw a lot of tears and hugs and selfies.

Catedral de Santiago de Compostela

Pilgrims crowd into the cathedral (#1) where the remains of Saint James are allegedly buried. The cathedral is a jumble of architectural styles— Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque. A highlight inside the west entrance is the Pórtico de la Gloria, containing 200 Romanesque sculptures dating from the late 12^th century.

Truth be told, I found the cathedral dark and overcrowded, but there’s no denying the atmosphere of piety, particularly from the pilgrims who walked the Camino for religious reasons.

The Old Town

Wander the granite streets of the old town of Santiago, enjoying the arches, squares, and monuments that contributed to the city’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. You’ll find plenty of good shopping, particularly for jewelry. The atmosphere is laid-back and friendly, with throngs of students, pilgrims, tourists, and locals.

Parks and Museums

Alameda Park (#2) is a large green space, wonderful to chill out in away from the crowds in the Praza do Obradoiro. You also get a marvelous view of the cathedral from the park.

When Gregg was in Santiago on a solo trip, he came across a large group of people in traditional costumes playing instruments and dancing in San Domingos de Bonaval Park. Watch his video on YouTube. Notice how Celtic the music sounds with the drums and bagpipes—completely different from the flamenco rhythms in the south.

In Bonaval, you’ll also find the Galician Contemporary Art Centre and the Museum of the Galician People (Museo de Pobo Galego).

In Santiago de Compostela, you’ll notice that you’re in Galicia first, Spain second. Local people speak Galician and are proud of their heritage. You’ll be understood in Spanish, and likely in English, in restaurants and hotels.

On the Pazo de Bendaña, not far from the cathedral, is the Granell Museum, housed in a beautiful old Baroque building. If you’re a fan of Surrealism, check out this museum that includes an extensive collection of work by Eugenio Granell and other artists linked to Surrealism, including Marcel Duchamp, Max Ernst, Joan Miró, and Roberto Matta.

Dining in Santiago de Compostela

With so many students, tourists and pilgrims swelling its population every year, Santiago de Compostela has become known for its excellent restaurants. We enjoyed several memorable meals during our week-long visit. Check restaurant apps and reviews and make reservations.

Day 4: North Coast

Head north from Santiago de Compostela to the coast then meander eastwards into Asturias, stopping at one of the many beachside towns. Magnificent rock formations are a draw at Playa Las Catedrales (#3), located near Ribadeo on the north coast.

Playa Las Catedrales beach near Ribadeo, Galicia of Lugo, Spai

Slow down and get off the main roads. Oviedo, the capital of Asturias, is a possible stopping place for the night. The Fine Arts Museum of Asturias looks intriguing.

Days 4 to 5: Llanes and the Picos de Europa

You’ll encounter rugged mountain vistas as you continue east toward the Picos de Europa. The jagged peaks of Picos de Europa (#4) National Park, Spain’s first national park, are nicknamed “Spain’s Dolomites.”

The mountains straddle southeast Asturias, southwest Cantabria, and northern Castilla y León. If you’re a hiker, you’ll want to spend a few days here.

One option is to home-base in the charming coastal town of Llanes (pronounced YAH-ness).

We discovered Llanes (#5) by accident on our drive across northern Spain. For once, I hadn’t booked a hotel, deciding that we’d just stop driving when we got tired and hope for the best. I don’t recommend that approach, particularly in the busy summer months, but sometimes it’s fun to live dangerously!

I saw the sign for Llanes, figured it was as good a place as any, and directed Gregg to the old town.

What a fortuitous decision! The little seaside town of Llanes turned out to be delightful, with beautiful buildings covered in fine woodwork and small windows. An inland waterway lined on both sides with cafés runs through the town center. Pull up a chair in one of the cafés to enjoy some tapas and beer, and watch the boats go by.

Traditional houses in Llanes, Asturias, Spain.

Take a walk out to the breakwater. An artist has painted the huge concrete blocks that protect the town from high tides with all sorts of crazy patterns.

Painted cement blocks on the breakwater in Llanes, Spain — Painted cement blocks on a jetty in Llanes, Spain

Watch the sun set over the Atlantic and prepare to be enchanted.

Eat dinner at an outdoor café in the network of tiny lanes in the old town. Two three-course meals and several glasses of red wine cost us just €10. Now, that’s a bargain!

The waiter insisted on giving us several of his cards so we could tell everyone we met about his restaurant. We wandered back through picturesque squares to our hotel, situated in a renovated convent.

In the middle of the night, I woke up, terrified that something—someone—was in the room. Perhaps a nun, long dead, was not happy to find me sleeping in a room that had once been her cell. I was so frightened that I had to wake up Gregg!

Is it likely that thousands of years of history—much of it violent—has produced its share of discontented ghosts?

Maybe.

Day 6: Santillana del Mar

The Caves of Altamira are located close to Santillana del Mar (#6). Seventeen caves are decorated with art of the Paleolithic age dating from 35,000 to 11,000 BC. Because of their deep galleries, isolated from external climatic influences, these caves are particularly well preserved. You can visit the replica caves. Check out the official website.

Bilbao

The drive from Santillana del Mar along the coast to Bilbao (#7) is gorgeous. Get off the highway and explore some of the windswept, rock-choked coves. This part of northern Spain is spectacular.

Bilbao is a large port city with a tangle of highways leading to the Nervión River and the Guggenheim. Use your GPS to navigate into the city, and avoid hotels in the old town. We chose the Hotel Melià, a modern hotel on the river, which was easy to find and included a large parking garage.

The street signs written in the Euskara language are daunting and largely unpronounceable, at least for foreign tourists like us! Many of the streets have names consisting of 20 letters, most of which are X’s and Z’s. When you’re in Basque country, you may forget you’re still in Spain.

Fortunately, you’ll easily get by in Spanish and English.

The big attraction in Bilbao is the Guggenheim Museum (#8), one of the world’s top modern art museums. I love that the city of Bilbao decided to revitalize itself and attract tourist euros by building a world-class art museum. That choice showed vision along with a heartening belief in the importance of art and culture.

Exterior of Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, Basque, Spain

We chose one of the ultra-modern hotels in an ultra-modern area of Bilbao about a ten-minute stroll along the river from the Guggenheim. Read my suggestions for hotels in Bilbao in Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Likely your first view of the Guggenheim will be of Puppy, the colossal topiary of a West Highland White Terrier that stands guard in front of the museum. With its variegated coat of flowers that changes with the season, Puppy is remarkably photogenic.

Puppy at night in front of the Guggenheim Bilbao — *Puppy* at night in front of the Guggenheim Bilbao

After you’ve satiated your thirst for Puppy pics, walk around the building to admire the silvery-gold slabs of hammered, stamped steel of Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim and to view more of the modern sculptures.

You’ll see Anish Kapoor’s astonishing sculpture of huge silver orbs stacked almost as high as the roof of the museum and facing the river. The piece is perfectly situated to catch the sun, turning the entire column of orbs into one pulsing, glistening beacon. Another marvelous sculpture is Maman by Louise Bourgeois—a massive spider and not recommended for arachnophobes.

Once you’ve had your fill of the exterior, enter the Guggenheim and get your bearings. See what the special exhibition is, study the maps or download the app, and plan your route.

A highlight is the enormous sculpture by Richard Serra on the ground floor. The work consists of six steel slabs bent and curled in various ways that invite you into their depths to wander until you feel dizzy. We went into two of the sculptures, and that was enough! The effect is startling, and a little goes a long way.

When we visited, we saw a stylishly curated exhibition of new paintings and digital works by David Hockney.

Following your visit to the Guggenheim, stroll across the bridge to the old town to spend your evening enjoying tapas and drinks. On your way back, you’ll see the Guggenheim and Puppy evocatively floodlit.

San Sebastian

If you’re driving to San Sebastian—called Donostia (#9) by the Basques—your first view may be nondescript suburbs miles away from the famous sweep of beach. Persevere until you reach the water and the old town.

Our hotel was situated at the top of Mount Urgull, one of two mountains that flank San Sebastian. Here’s the stunning view of San Sebastian from near our hotel.

View over San Sebastian, Spain — Overview of the Bay of San Sebastian, Spain

Traffic in San Sebastian was remarkably sedate when we were there. Head for one of the big parking lots in the commercial center and then explore San Sebastian on foot.

San Sebastian consists of three main areas – the long sweep of beach bristling with frolicking holiday-makers, the modern town built on an easy-to-navigate grid system, and the old town with its narrow streets and intriguing aromas.

Spend your evening in San Sebastian bar-hopping in the old town to sample as many pinchos (pintxos) as possible.

Squeeze into a bar (they’re all crowded!), grab a plate, select a few cold pinchos from the platters lined up on the bar (so many varieties to choose from!), grab a glass of local wine, eat standing up amid the crowds, then saunter off to another place.

Platters of pinchos on a bar in San Sebastian — Spanish tapas called pintxos of the Basque country served on a bar counter in a restaurant in San Sebastian, Spain

Each pincho is a mini work of art. If you don’t see something you like on the cold platters, order hot pinchos listed on chalkboards behind the bar.

The incredibly efficient servers keep track of what you’ve eaten by the number of toothpicks left on your plate. You also crumple up your used napkins and throw them on the floor—a practice that takes some getting used to!

Go from bar to bar sampling two or three pinchos at each, along with a glass of wine. Prices are amazingly reasonable. Our evening of pincho-eating and wine-guzzling cost just €30, including two gelatos.

Everyone seemed in great humor. Families with little kids filled the streets late into the evening. The San Sebastian people know how to live!

Where to Stay in Northern Spain

For accommodation suggestions in Santiago de Compostela, Llanes, San Sebastian, and Bilbao, see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Other Tour Options in Northern Spain

Here are some more tour options in northern Spain offered through GetYourGuide:

Conclusion

Have you been to northern Spain? Please share your experiences and tips with other artsy travelers in the Comments section below.

Here are more posts about Spain on Artsy Traveler:

Awesome Modern Art Museums in Europe: Best Bets for the Artsy Traveler

February 12, 2019October 13, 2024Artsy Sightseeing, Destinations, Europe Overview, Get Inspired carolcram 5 Comments

Last updated on October 13th, 2024 at 04:42 pm

Some of the best modern art museums in the world are located in Europe.

In this post, I’ve chosen mostly large museums that feature a variety of artists. My focus is on modern art so you won’t find museums like the Prado and Louvre in this post.

Another option for getting your modern art fix in Europe is to seek out single-artist museums. I’ve compiled a list of seven of my favorites in Seven Super Single-Artist Museums in Europe You Should Visit.

As a life-long lover of modern art (check out my husband Gregg Simpson’s art and you’ll see why!), I’m a bit of a kid in a candy store when it comes to finding awesome modern art museums in Europe. You’ll be spoiled for choice!

Check for Exhibitions

Before you set off for Europe, take some time to check for special exhibitions in the places you’re visiting. Many times, I’ve changed my itinerary on the fly to catch an exhibition before it closes or to take in one at its start.

One of the great pleasures of traveling is switching gears halfway through a trip—to zig when you planned to zag. Stay open to possibilities when you travel. Often, you’ll meet someone who’ll tell you about a must-see art museum that you’ve never heard of.

On a recent trip to Porto, we were told about a special exhibition of the work of M. C. Escher. What a treat! We never would have known about it because of its location in an exhibition space rather than a museum.

Gregg Simpson in an otpical illusion room at the Escher exhibition in Porto

Chat with servers at dinner and strike up a conversation with other travelers you meet on the train or at your hotel. People love to share recommendations!

Modern Art Focus

As I mentioned earlier, in this post, I’m focusing only on museums with significant and varied modern art collections.

What do I mean by modern art? I’m a huge fan of 20^th-century art from about the turn of the century to the 1960s. I also appreciate some (not all) of the contemporary art created post-1960.

Most of the best modern art museums covered in this post primarily exhibit traditional modern art. That sounds like an oxymoron, but if you’re an art fan, you’ll know what I mean!

Peggy Guggenheim Venice Art Gallery Person Looking At Jackson Pollock Painting — Enjoying modern art at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice: Get Fast Track Tickets

Modern art—as distinct from contemporary art—encompasses the work of a slew of big names. These include Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, Henri Matisse, Georgia O’Keeffe, Rene Magritte… the list goes on and on and on.

What’s Included in This Post

Most of the modern art museums listed here include works by modern masters in their permanent collections or feature them in major exhibitions. I fondly remember seeing a major retrospective of the work of Salvador Dali at the Centre Pompidou in Paris. It was an amazing curatorial triumph, although, truth be told, I’m not a big Dali fan.

Shhh – don’t tell anyone!

I’ve also included a selection of novels inspired by modern art that are listed on my sister website, Art In Fiction. Quite a few of the big names in 20^th-century art have sparked the imaginations of authors.

So, without further preamble, let’s get to it. Drum roll, please!

Map of Modern Art Museums in Europe

Here are the locations of all the modern art museums covered in the post–from Bilbao (#1) in Spain to the Tate St. Ives (#12) in Cornwall, England.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

Bilbao, Spain: The Guggenheim Museum

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao (#1 on the map) is worth the hype and worth the trip. Located in the Basque region of northeast Spain, Bilbao isn’t on the beaten tourist path.

But please, if you’re in Spain and within striking distance of Bilbao, find the time to spend a night there.

Guggenheim Bilbao Art Museum Exterior — Guggenheim Bilbao: Skip the Line & Guided Tour

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao was built to revive the failing industrial city. How marvelous that the city bigwigs used art to pull their city out of the economic doldrums and place it firmly on the world cultural map.

The move was bold, even audacious, but it’s paid off spectacularly, thanks to Frank Gehry’s awesome structure. Now the Guggenheim Bilbao shows up in just about every Top Ten list of modern art museums worldwide.

Exterior of the Guggenheim Bilbao

The exterior of the Guggenheim Bilbao plays a major role in its spectacular appeal to art lovers. Stroll around outside the building to see the many amazing sculptures. Most notable are Tall Trees and The Eye by Anish Kapoor, the massive spider Maman by Louise Bourgeois, and the wildly popular Puppy by Jeff Koons.

I defy anyone to stand in front of Puppy and not smile. He is adorable, if a 43-foot tall, flower-encrusted West Highland Terrier can be called adorable.

Puppy by Jeff Koons outside the Guggenheim in Bilbao — Guggenheim Bilbao: Skip the Line & Guided Tour

Sculpture called Tall Tree and the Eye by Anish Kapoor Outside the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain — Sculpture by Anish Kapoor outside the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain

Sculpture called "Maman" by Louise Bourgeois in front of the Guggenheim, Bilbao — Sculpture called *Maman* by Louise Bourgeois in front of the Guggenheim, Bilbao

Inside the Guggenheim Bilbao

The museum’s interior is as compelling as its exterior.

On one of our visits, we were lucky to catch a major exhibition of recent landscapes by David Hockney. The massive galleries and thoughtful curatorial choices made the exhibition one of our favorites, which is saying something.

Inteior of the Guggenheim Art Museum in Bilbao, Spain — Guggenheim Bilbao: Skip the Line & Guided Tour

We were also taken with the massive installations by Frank Serra.

The whole Guggenheim complex with its gorgeous setting on the Nervion River really is miraculous. The museum attracts over 20 million visitors annually.

Now, that’s an art success story!

Exhibitions at the Guggenheim Bilbao change frequently so check what’s on and then plan your visit accordingly. You won’t regret devoting time to exploring the Basque region of Spain.

For more information about Bilbao and suggestions for accommodations, see these posts:

Bratislava, Slovakia: Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum

Situated on the Danube as the name suggests and about 20 kilometers from Bratislava in the Slovak Republic, the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum is billed as “one of the most romantic museums of modern art in Europe”.

The museum, opened in 2000, was founded by Gerard Meulensteen of Eindhoven, a Dutch collector and art patron, and Slovak gallerist Vincent Polakovič.

Exterior of the Danubiana Meluesteen Art Museum in Bratislava, Slovak Republic — Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum website. Used with permission

The collection includes works by artists from the experimental CoBrA group in the Netherlands, such as Karel Appel and Eugen Brands . Also included are works by Sam Francis, Christo, Corneille, Pierre Alechinsky, and others.

Plenty of quirky and colorful outdoor sculptures along with the dramatic setting on the Danube make this museum a must-see if you’re traveling to Bratislava.

Sculptures outside the Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum in Bratislava, Slovak Republic — Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum website. Used with permission.

London, England: Tate Modern

I’ve visited the Tate Modern a few times and have mixed feelings about it, to be honest! It’s a monumental place and a huge accomplishment from an architectural perspective.

I mean, seriously—a power station?

It’s pretty darned amazing that Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron could convert the Bankside power station into a gallery and still keep much of the building’s original character.

View of the Tate Modern from the Thames in London, England

I can’t say I loved—or even liked—all the art exhibited in the Tate Modern. Several exhibits comprise contemporary and installation art, most of which was kind of hit or miss, in my opinion.

However, the special exhibitions can be spectacular. I’ve seen a wonderful retrospective of the work of American artist Georgia O’Keeffe on one visit, and an exhibition of international surrealism on another visit. My husband, Gregg Simpson, was honored to be included in the catalog for the latter exhibition.

Location of the Tate Modern

The location of the Tate Modern on the south side of the Thames, right across the new Millennium Bridge from St. Paul’s Cathedral, is a selling point. You can see the Tate Modern in the morning and then stroll across the bridge and visit St. Paul’s and the City in the afternoon.

You can also take in two Tates in a day. A good strategy is to start at the Tate Britain upriver. Check out the paintings by William Blake and some of the best works by the pre-Raphaelites. Then, hop on the Tate Boat at Millbank Pier and sail downriver to Bankside Pier to see the Tate Modern.

The Tate Boat runs every twenty to thirty minutes along the Thames. For more about the Tate Modern and London in general, check out these posts:

And if you happen be down in St. Ives in Cornwall, don’t miss the Tate St. Ives. See the end of this post for more information.

Madrid, Spain: Reina Sofia

The Reina Sofia is home to one of the most famous paintings of the 20th century—Guernica by Pablo Picasso.

You’ve likely seen Guernica many times in reproduction. However, seeing the “real thing” is a different story.

The massive mural has pride of place in a room of its own. You can sense how enraged Picasso must have felt as he painted it. Its graphic depiction of the bombing of the old Basque city of Gernika in April 1937 has become an iconic image of the brutality of war.

Outdoor reproduction of Guernica by Picasso — Outdoor reproduction of *Guernica* by Picasso / Image by Almudena Sanz from Pixabay

The Reina Sofia is a beautifully designed gallery that combines a modern area with the arched hallways and barred windows of an old hospital. In several rooms, films representing specific 20^th-century periods are running. Most are silent-era films, which makes following them a lot easier if your Spanish is minimal.

Included in the Reina Sofia are masterpieces by Salvador Dali, Joan Miró, and Juan Gris, as well as a collection of over 22,400 works divided into three sections titled: The Irruption of the 20th Century: Utopia and Conflict (1900-1945), Is the War Over? Art in a Divided World (1945-1968), and From Revolt to Postmodernity (1962-1982).

Visiting the Reina Sofia

The museum is located on the Art Walk (Paseo del Arte)—a one-kilometer stretch that also includes the must-see Prado Museum and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum.

Sculpture by Miro outside the Reina Sofia in Madrid — Get Skip-the-line Tickets to the Reina Sofia and see this little guy by Miró.

For more information about Madrid and suggestions for accommodations, see these posts:

Munich, Germany: Pinakothek der Moderne

The Pinakothek der Modern in central Munich is one of three Pinakotheks in Munich’s Kunstareal (art district).

The museum features an excellent collection of the works of German Expressionist artists.

In addition, you’ll find works by modern masters, including Picasso, Miró, Kandinsky, Klee, and Marc.

Other exhibits are related to form and function in a section that features modern industrial design and manufacture, furniture, and appliances.

On Sundays, the admission price is significantly discounted—at least it was when I visited. After strolling through the galleries, stop by the café.

For more information about Munich and suggestions for accommodations, see these posts:

Otterlo, Netherlands: Kröller-Müller Museum

I was 18 years old and traveling on my own for the first time in Europe when I visited the Kröller-Müller Museum. Located in the fantastically unexpected Dutch National Park (Nationaal Park De Hoge Veluwe) outside Otterlo and not far from Arnhem, this museum is a must-see

To say that the Kröller-Müller blew me away that first visit would be an understatement. Fresh off the plane from North America, I’d seen nothing like it in my North-American life.

The Kröller-Müller Museum is light, airy, and filled with famous works by van Gogh and a load of other great painters.

Even better, the museum is smack in the middle of the Dutch National Park. This amazing park teems with deer, rolling sand hills, intriguing forests, and miles of bike paths.

Visiting the Kröller-Müller Museum

When I revisited the museum with Gregg recently, I was thrilled to discover that the Kröller-Müller and the park are as awesome as I remembered.

Everything about the place is perfect!

The museum includes dozens of paintings by van Gogh, room after room of other greats from the 19th and early 20th centuries, a massive sculpture garden, and even a bustling outdoor café with excellent food.

Sunflowers painting by Vincent Van Gogh at the Kroller-Mueller Museum in Netherlands — Purchase tickets to the Kröller-Müller Museum.

The word that comes to mind when touring the sculpture garden is serendipity. The sculptures are modern and diverse and often positioned in unexpected places.

Every turn of a pathway through forests and across green clipped lawns reveals yet another vista and another sculpture—stone or wood or marble, some moving, some static, some aesthetically stunning, some quirky, a few ugly, and yet all perfect.

Sculptures outside the Kroller-Mueller Art Museum in Netherlands — Tickets to the Kröller-Müller Museum include the spectacular sculpture garden.

Floating sculpture in the grounds of the Kröller-Müller Museum in the Netherlands — Floating sculpture on the grounds of the Kröller-Müller Museum in the Netherlands

Getting to the Kröller-Müller Museum

If you’re a fan of van Gogh and modern sculpture but haven’t visited the Kröller-Müller, then go.

Take a day tour from Amsterdam, or better, drive and stay a few days in the area. We combined our visit to the Kröller-Müller with a bike ride around a portion of the 55-square-kilometer national park.

Explore a remarkably varied landscape that includes stunningly beautiful forests, heathlands, and sand dunes. You’ll spot impressively antlered deer, wild boar, foxes, sheep, and more.

Red deer stag in the Dutch National Park the Veluwe — Red deer stag in the Dutch National Park at Hoge Veluwe

For more information about the Netherlands and suggestions for accommodations, see Visiting the Netherlands: My Top Tips for an Artsy Trip

Paris, France: Centre Pompidou

My most recent experience with the Pompidou Center (one of my absolute favorite modern art museums in Europe) was fraught with pure terror.

Gregg and I were trying to find an art gallery on an obscure side street that even Google Maps couldn’t find. The gallery was hosting an exhibition of Gregg’s work, so finding it was a matter of some urgency.

I directed Gregg to turn down what I trusted was the right street. He drove a short block over cobblestones to emerge into a wide, pedestrian-only space that butted up against the back end of the massive Pompidou Center.

Mon Dieu!

I looked up at the crazy exoskeleton of pipes and glass that had horrified Parisians when it was first built and yelled a few choice curses into my phone. The Google Maps lady was not impressed. She continued to insist that we drive across the square.

Exterior of the Pompidou Center in Paris, France — Exterior of the Pompidou Center in Paris

Luckily, the space was relatively empty of people (a rare event) so Gregg was able to execute a hasty U-turn and head smartly down the correct street. The only problem was that the street was one-way, and we were barreling down it the wrong way.

Fortunately, we found the gallery without having a head-on collision. A few hours later, after unloading the paintings and hanging the show, we were swanning about the vernissage (the opening), champagne glasses in hand.

Phew!

Visiting the Centre Pompidou

Every time we visit Paris, we make a beeline for the Pompidou. Its special exhibitions are almost always excellent.

Check what’s on before coming to Paris and adjust your dates accordingly. One of our favorite special exhibitions featured the work of Gerhard Richter way back in 2012. I was impressed both by the range and styles of Richter’s work and the thoughtful way in which the exhibit was curated.

No matter when you go to the Pompidou, you’ll always have the legendary fourth floor to wander through. This floor features the museum’s permanent collection and is a veritable “who’s who” of early 20^th-century modern art.

All the most famous names are represented. Enjoy strolling through the rooms picking out your favorites and reveling in the glorious mishmash of colors and forms that characterizes 20th-century modern art.

After sighing your way around the art, take the escalator to the rooftop to relish one of the best views of the Paris skyline.

For information about other art museums in Paris, check out Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris and Love Among the Recipes: Paris Sights & Bistro Dishes. For more about Paris and France in general, see Visiting France: My Best Tips for Enjoying an Artsy Trip.

Rome, Italy: National Gallery of Modern Art

Rome’s National Gallery of Modern Art (Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna) is conveniently located on the edge of the Borghese Gardens, surely one of Europe’s most beguiling parks.

View of the Temple of Asclepius at Villa Borghese Gardens in Rome

The gallery features an excellent collection of 20th-century Italian painters, including Giorgio de Chirico (a particular favorite), Amedeo Modigliani, Antonio Canova, Giacomo Balla, and Giorgio Morandi. You’ll also find works by Rodin, Degas, van Gogh, Monet, Duchamp, Man Ray, and Pollock.

Unlike the Vatican and the other Renaissance and ancient Roman attractions of Rome, the gallery is sparsely attended and therefore extremely pleasant.

After your visit, stroll along the shaded pathways of the Borghese Gardens.

For more information about Rome, Italy and where to stay, see these posts:

Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France: Fondation Maeght

The Fondation Maeght makes just about every list of must-see art museums in Europe. While not the largest modern art museum in Europe, the Maeght is one of the most respected and also the most beautifully situated.

The Maeght is near the charming village of Saint Paul-de-Vence, not far from Cannes and Nice in the south of France.

Carol Cram on the grounds of the fabulous Fondation Maeght in the south of France — On the grounds of the fabulous Fondation Maeght in the south of France

I can’t say that every exhibition we’ve seen at the Fondation Maeght has been great. However, you still ought to visit if you’re in the area. When the exhibitions are good, they are extremely good.

The Fondation Maeght is a private foundation that was conceived and funded by Aimé and Marguerite Maeght to exhibit modern art. The Maeghts had several artist friends, including Georges Braque, Alexander Calder, Marc Chagall, Alberto Giacometti, Fernand Léger, and Joan Miró, who from the get-go donated or sold their work to the Foundation.

As Miró emphasized, the Fondation Maeght “…must before all be a place for art that remains alive.”

Visiting the Fondation Maeght

We first visited the Fondation Maeght in the 1990s during our first family trip to Europe with our young daughter. It was love at first sight!

Highlights include the giant sculptures by so many of the great 20th-century modern artists, including Miró, Giacometti, Arp, and Calder; spectacular views across the hills of the Riviera to the turquoise Mediterranean; and an airy modernist gallery.

You can visit the Fondation Maeght on a tour, but you’d be best off spending at least a few nights exploring the area and visiting the Maeght for a few hours at the beginning or end of the day when the light is best for photography.

For more about traveling in France, check out 17 Must-See Places to Visit in France You Should Know About.

Venice, Italy: Peggy Guggenheim Collection

If I were to pick a favorite modern art museum from this Must-See list, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice would rank in the top three.

Located right smack on the Grand Canal in the Dorsoduro district of magical Venice between Santa Maria della Salute and the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection just makes me smile. I can’t visit it often enough!

Carol next to a statue of a horse in front of the Peggy
Guggenheim Museum in Venice.

The museum houses Peggy Guggenheim’s personal collection of 20^th-century art, including masterpieces of cubism, surrealism, and abstract expressionism.

Gregg is a huge fan of Max Ernst, to whom Peggy was married for a time. Several of Ernst’s marvelous paintings are featured in the collection. Other artists in the permanent collection include Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian. It really is an embarrassment of 20^th-century riches.

If you’re in Venice, take a break from the Renaissance and cross the canal to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Wander the cool halls of her renovated palazzo to view the paintings and sculptures, then descend the steps to the edge of the canal and watch the boats go by.

Venice panorama city skyline at Venice Grand Canal, Venice Italy

Find more information about Venice, Italy, and where to stay in these posts:

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art Near Copenhagen, Denmark

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (#11 on the map at the top of this post) is about a 30-minute train ride north of Copenhagen. It’s world-renowned as one of Europe’s best modern art museums, and therefore a must-visit for the Artsy Traveler!

Check what exhibitions are on, but even if they don’t appeal, visit the museum anyway. It makes for a lovely morning out from Copenhagen. You reach it by train (covered by the Copenhagen Card) followed by a pleasant 20-minute stroll along a suburban road to the museum.

After visiting the exhibitions, head outside where the real stars of the museum are located.

Sculpture by Miro at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art near Copenhagen — Sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art near Copenhagen, Denmark

For more information about the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, check out my post: A Trio of Must-See Museums in Copenhagen.

Tate St. Ives in Cornwall, England

The Tate St. Ives (#12) is a delightfully compact and easy-to-tour museum overlooking the sea in lovely little St. Ives. I visited on a recent trip to Cornwall, and was lucky to sit in on two curator talks about local artist Robert Lanyon. Here’s one of his pieces.

Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon at the Tate St. Ives — Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon

For more about my visit to the Tate St. Ives, check out Get the Best Out of Southwest England on a Rabbie’s Small Group Tour.

Novels Inspired by Modern Art on Art In Fiction

Modern art is still under-served by authors, at least compared to that of the Renaissance. Fortunately, my sister site, Art In Fiction, includes a selection of modern-art inspired novels.

Get your modern art hit with these novels.

Modern Art by Evelyn Toynton – The life of Jackson Pollock’s widow Lee Krasner provides the raw material for this strong, assured debut novel (Publisher’s Weekly).

The Season of Migration by Nellie Hermann – A profoundly imaginative, original, and heartbreaking vision of the early years of Vincent van Gogh, before he became the artist we know today.

Abstract Aliases by Ritter Ames – Book 3 in The Bodies of Art mystery series presents abstract clues that lead to new questions that turn to “dead” ends. It’s an action-packed romp that’s impossible to put down.

Costalegre by Courtney Maum – Set in 1937 in the haute-bohemian circles of Austria, Germany, and Paris, this novel is heavily inspired by the real-life relationship between the heiress Peggy Guggenheim and her daughter, Pegeen.

Cooking for Picasso by Camille Aubray: a touching story of the choices that men and women make as they seek a path toward love, success, and joie de vivre.

Sightseeing Tips

I’ve included links in this post to purchase fast track or skip-the-line tickets from Tiqets.com.

I highly recommend purchasing tickets ahead of time when you’re traveling in Europe. Major art museums are increasingly crowded, with long lines that sap your sightseeing energy. Who can enjoy art after standing for an hour under the hot sun waiting to buy tickets?

Purchase your tickets well in advance of your visit or even the night before from your hotel room. Then enjoy a leisurely breakfast before strolling straight into the museum past the long lines of tourists who did not book ahead. You’ll be sighing in front of some of the world’s great masterpieces in no time!

I prefer to use one website to book all my tickets so I can easily keep track of which venue I’m seeing on which day. You can also book directly with most of the venues; however, you sometimes need to print the tickets, which can be awkward when you’re traveling. I keep all my tickets easily available on my phone which is why I use Tiqets.com.

Have you been to any of the modern art museums covered in this post? What did you think? Share your impressions and recommendations with other artsy travelers in the Comments section below.