Best Cathedrals in Europe to Delight the Artsy Traveler

Cathedrals are pretty thick on the ground in Europe compared to where I come from. In fact, massive stone edifices with slender columns soaring heavenward and sparkling stained glass are pretty must non-existent.

We have our fair share of churches but nothing like the ancient piles that rise from the piazzas and town squares of every major city in Europe—and plenty of not-so-major ones.

Map of the Best Cathedrals in Europe

The map below shows the locations of the Best Cathedrals in Europe mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

I visit cathedrals to revel in the history and the art and to imagine the incredible skill and dedication required to build them so long ago. When I study just how complex these ancient structures are, I marvel anew at the ingenuity of humanity.

For this post, I’ve chosen my 8 favorite cathedrals in Europe. To be clear, not all of them are actually cathedrals, which is a specific ecclesiastical term. I’ve thrown in a basilica, a couple of abbeys, and one plain old chapel (which is anything but plain!).

I’ve left out several of the biggies, like St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and Cologne Cathedral in Germany, that you might expect to see on a list of best cathedrals in Europe. But my aim here is to share the places that over the years have touched me the most and that I revisit every chance I get.

My choices are located in England, France, Spain, and Italy.

Durham Cathedral in Durham, England

I’ll start with my favorite cathedral in the world–the queen of all cathedrals, in my opinion. Durham Cathedral (#1) is a massive Norman pile situated on top of a bluff overlooking the River Wear.

Durham Cathedral and River Wear in Spring in Durham, United Kingdom
Durham Cathedral and River Wear in Durham, United Kingdom

Unlike most cathedrals in northern Europe built in the Gothic style, Durham Cathedral dates from Norman times. Instead of slender columns and vaulted ceilings, Durham Cathedral has massive round columns and solid round arches and is one of the world’s foremost examples of Norman architecture.

Why I Love Durham Cathedral

I adore Durham Cathedral!

In fact, I love it so much that back in the mists of my past, I chose to go to Durham University for a year simply because I wanted to live in the shadow of its cathedral. I have many fond memories of visiting the cathedral, sitting quietly in the nave, and sometimes hearing the organ soar.

Interior of Durham Cathedral
Interior of Durham Cathedral

Good times!

I’m not alone in considering Durham Cathedral a must-see. Bill Bryson, one of my favorite travel writers, also loves Durham Cathedral. For a time, he was even a Chancellor of Durham University.

Here’s what he wrote in his delightful book Notes From A Small Island:

“Why, it’s wonderful – a perfect little city – and I kept thinking: ‘Why did no-one tell me about this?’ I knew, of course, that it had a fine Norman cathedral but I had no idea that it was so splendid. I couldn’t believe that not once in twenty years had anyone said to me, ‘You’ve never been to Durham? Good God, man, you must go at once! Please – take my car’.”

Durham Cathedral Highlights

The Anglo-Saxon cathedral on the site dates from 995. However, construction of Durham Cathedral as we know it today began in 1093, making it one of England’s oldest cathedrals. Highlights of the cathedral include:

Norman Pillars

These massive carved pillars (6.6 meters round and 6.6 meters high) are one of my favorite things about Durham Cathedral. They hold up the gorgeous round arches that mark Durham Cathedral as a Norman cathedral rather than a Gothic cathedral like most of the other cathedrals in England, including York Minster and Westminster Abbey.

Shrine of St. Cuthbert

The best loved saint in the north of England is St. Cuthbert. He lived as a monk, a bishop, and finally a hermit on Lindisfarne and was proclaimed a saint in 698. His shrine is located within the cathedral.

Tomb of the Venerable Bede

The Venerable Bede was a monk who lived in the 7th and 8th centuries and is regarded as the greatest Anglo-Saxon scholar. He was declared “venerable” in 836 and canonized in 1899. His bones were brought to Durham in 1022 and eventually entombed in the Galilee Chapel in Durham Cathedral.

Open Treasure Exhibition

Various exhibitions showcasing medieval art and artifacts are featured. Check the website for up-to-date information.

Stained Glass

Enjoy the number and variety of stained-glass windows in Durham Cathedral–from medieval to modern, the most recent installed in 2010.

You’ll find plenty of things to enjoy at Durham Cathedral. After touring it, stroll down to the River Wear so you can admire the iconic view of the cathedral. When I was a student at Durham University, I spent many hours walking alongside the river and admiring views of the cathedral.

For more information about opening times, check the Durham Cathedral website.

Practical Information for Visiting Durham

Durham is located between York and Newcastle in the northeast of England. You can see it from the train. In fact, my first glimpse of Durham Cathedral was from the train when we passed it on my epic BritRail journey around Britain when I was eighteen. I knew then that I had to return!

I recommend staying a day or two in Durham to enjoy the cathedral and the lovely town of Durham and to explore the surrounding countryside. Click below for accommodation options in Durham.



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Salisbury Cathedral in Salisbury, England

The spire of Salisbury Cathedral (#2) rising above the bucolic Wiltshire countryside is the quintessential English view. Stay a night to also enjoy the charming town of Salisbury. It makes a great home base for exploring the area that includes Stonehenge just 9 miles to the north.

Salisbury Cathedral in the town of Salisbury in Wiltshire, England
Salisbury Cathedral in the town of Salisbury in Wiltshire, England

Salisbury Cathedral Highlights

The ornate 13th-century cathedral built in the Gothic style is not as old as Durham Cathedral and includes a graceful 123-meter spire and a 14th- century clock that still works. Apart from the beauty of the cathedral itself, the big draw for history buffs is the display of an original copy of the Magna Carta from 1215.

Celling inside the Salisbury Cathedral, England
Ceiling of Salisbury Cathedral

On the Salisbury Cathedral website, you can enjoy a “Spirit and Endeavour Virtual Art Tour“, an interactive virtual look inside the cathedral.

After touring the cathedral, linger in the 80-acre Cathedral Close–the largest in Britain. Notable highlights include:.

Arundells

The home of former Prime Minister Sir Edward Heath houses collections of his sailing and musical memorabilia in addition to oriental and European ceramics, paintings, political cartoons, and more.

Mompresson House

This National Trust property is an 18th-century townhouse in the heart of Cathedral Close. Check out the notable plaster work, an elegant carved oak staircase, period furniture, and even a collection of 18th-century drinking glasses.

Front facade of the historic Mompesson House in Salisbury, Wiltshire
Front facade of the historic Mompesson House in Salisbury, Wiltshire

The Salisbury Museum

This fine museum houses archeological collections from the region, including the Stonehenge Gallery and displays of pre-historic, Roman, Saxon, and medieval artifacts.

Practical Information for Visiting Salisbury

Salisbury is located in Wiltshire about 100 kilometers southwest of London. The train journey from Waterloo Station takes about 90 minutes.

I recommend staying at least one night in Salisbury so you can enjoy the town and explore nearby Stonehenge and Old Sarum to the north. The bus to Stonehenge takes 30 minutes from Salisbury, or you can take a tour from London. Here are options.

Click below for accommodation options in Salisbury. We stayed in a bed-and-breakfast within walking distance of the Cathedral–a good choice if you’re not traveling by car.



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Westminster Abbey in London, England

It’s crowded, you must buy the audio tour, and you can only go in one direction when you tour the abbey, but OMG, it’s worth it. I never tire of visiting Westminster Abbey (#3). The history of this place coupled with the always fascinating Poet’s Corner make it a must-see every time I visit London, which is as often as I can manage!

Westminster Abbey, London, England, UK
Westminster Abbey, London

The last time I visited Westminster Abbey, I was extremely fortunate to be taken into a chapel not accessible to the public to view the tombs of John Philip Kemble and Sarah Siddons. They were the two greatest actors of the early 19th century who also make an appearance in my 3rd novel, The Muse of Fire.

I asked an attendant where the tombs were when I couldn’t find them in Poet’s Corner. She directed me to one of the abbey’s clerics who took me to the side chapel where women were arranging flowers. I could look at the 2 tombs, both decorated with large marble sculptures of the famous actors. However, I wasn’t allowed to take pictures. Still, it was a thrill to pay my respects to 2 people with whom I’d spent a lot of time while writing The Muse of Fire.

One very good thing about having to tour Westminster Abbey with the audio guide clamped to your ear is that the noise level is very low. People are too busy listening to the audioguide to talk. As a result, even with the abbey heaving with people, you still feel something of the spiritual atmosphere of a church that has played an outsized role in British history since 1066.

Before you visit, take a virtual tour to get your bearings.

Westminster Abbey Highlights

The audio tour is extremely thorough so you’ll get a lot of information about what you’re seeing as you shuffle around the abbey.

Coronation Chair

View where the kings and queens of England have been crowned for over 700 years. Under the chair is the Stone of Scone brought by Kind Edward I from Scotland to Westminster Abbey in 1295. The stone was stolen on Christmas Day in 1950. For an entertaining movie about the theft, see The Stone of Destiny.

Pyx Chamber

One of the oldest surviving parts of Westminster Abbey, the Pyx Chamber is a low vaulted room off the East Cloister that was built about 1070. You really get a feel for the incredible antiquity of the abbey in this chamber.

Royal Tombs

Westminster Abbey contains the mortal remains of 30 kings and queens, starting with King Edward the Confessor. As you tour the abbey, you’ll pass the tombs of such major figures as Edward I, Richard II, Henry VII, Queen Elizabeth I, and Charles II. Walking around the tombs is like taking a trip through English history.

Cloisters

I always enjoy walking around cloisters at cathedrals. The ones at Westminster Abbey enclose a green space with a central fountain commemorating Capability Brown, the famous landscape gardener and architect from the 18th century.

Closisters at Westminster Abbey, London
Cloisters at Westminster Abbey, London

Poet’s Corner

This area is a must-visit for artsy travelers. I could spend all day here looking for the tombs of over 100 of England’s greatest writers and poets, including Jane Austen, Charles Dickens, Thomas Hardy, Geoffrey Chaucer, C. S. Lewis, and composers such as George Frederick Handel.

Other Tombs and Memorials

Over 3,300 tombs and memorials are scattered throughout Westminster Abbey. If you’re looking for a particular person and can’t find them on the regular tour (and you know a memorial to them exists in the abbey), ask an attendant. If the tomb is accessible, you may be allowed to view it even if it is not in an area open to the public.

Check out the Westminster Abbey website to buy tickets.

Practical Information for Visiting London

London is enormous, so allocate at least 5 days to visit it and preferably a week. You won’t run out of things to see and do in London.

Sunset over Big Ben, the Parliament buildings and the Thames River in London, England
Sunset over Big Ben, the Parliament buildings and the Thames River in London

Here are London-based tours to consider, particularly if you are short on time.

When I visit London, I choose the most central accommodation I can find. Yes, you can find cheaper (and drearier) accommodation farther from the center, but you’ll spend more time and money commuting.

The last time I was in London, I stayed at the Cavendish Hotel near Green Park and within walking distance of the theaters in London’s West End. The location was perfect. I very rarely needed to take a tube, mostly relying on either busses or walking.

Click below for accommodation options in central London.



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Sainte-Chapelle in Paris, France

If you have not yet visited Sainte-Chapelle (#4) in Paris, put it at the top of your list. It’s truly one of the city’s marvels–which is saying something in Paris. Every time I visit the City of Light, I make make time to pop into Sainte- Chapelle.

What’s So Special About Sainte-Chapelle?

Two words: stained glass. The walls enclosing the top floor of the 2-storey chapel are virtually all glass. Very slender columns separate the soaring stained glass windows.

Stained glass windows of Saint Chapelle in Paris, France
Stained glass windows of Sainte-Chapelle in Paris

Pictures can’t capture the incredible light and beauty of Sainte-Chapelle. Arranged across 15 windows, each 15 metres high, the stained-glass panes depict 1,113 scenes from the Old and New Testaments.

The chapel was built over a period of just 7 years–an incredibly fast pace for the time and why the chapel’s architecture is so harmonious.

For information about opening times, check the Sainte-Chapelle website.

Attend a Concert at Sainte-Chapelle

One of the best ways to enjoy Sainte-Chapelle is to attend a concert there. We’ve done so several times and have always been transported. It’s a wonderful artsy experience to listen to Bach, Vivaldi, and other 18th- century masters while bathed in the colored light filtering through the stained glass.

Lean your head back and look up at the star-spangled ceiling.

Ceiling of Sainte Chapelle in Paris, France
Ceiling of Sainte-Chapelle in Paris

Purchase tickets in advance for concerts at Sainte-Chapelle. The ClassicTic website is a reliable place to find tickets.

Practical Information for Visiting Sainte- Chapelle

Sainte-Chapelle is located on the Île de la Cité in the heart of Paris. Since the chapel is located within the precincts of the Palais de Justice, you need to go through a security screening before you can enter Sainte-Chapelle. Visit early in the day or wait until the evening and combine your visit with a concert.

While on the Île de la Cité, you’ll pass by Notre Dame Cathedral–a heartbreaking site as a result of the fire that devastated it in 2019. Repairs are underway, so hopefully one day you’ll be able to tour it again.

Here’s the Île de la Cité showing Notre Dame Cathedral before the fire. The spire in the center of the picture is Sainte-Chapelle.

Île de la Cité and the Pont des Arts at sunrise
Île de la Cité and the Pont des Arts at sunrise

Paris deserves at least 4 days to tour and preferably a week. I’ve stayed a month at a time and have never run out of things to see and do.

Here are Paris-based tours to consider, particularly if you are short on time.

Staying in Paris

When I visit Paris, I choose the most central accommodation I can find. Cheaper accommodation is available on the Périphérique, but the neighborhoods can be souless, and you’ll spend more time commuting to central Paris.

See my suggestions about where to stay in Paris or click below for other accommodation options in central Paris.



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Chartres Cathedral in Chartres, France

Chartres makes a great day trip from Paris or a stop on the way to tour the Loire Valley.

Considered one of the most beautiful in France, Chartres Cathedral (#5) is also one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture. The cathedral dominates the delightful small town of Chartres.

The south view of Cathedral of Our Lady of Chartres, France.
The south view of Cathedral of Our Lady of Chartres, France

Chartres Cathedral has it all: graceful spires, pointed arches, flying buttresses, and magnificent 12th- and 13th-century stained-glass windows. The intensity of your visit is heightened by the fact that no direct light enters the building. All light is filtered through the stained glass, so your enjoyment of the remarkable interior of the cathedral has an other-worldly feel.

Stained glass windows in Chartres Cathedral, France
Stained-glass windows in Chartres Cathedral, France

At the center of the cathedral is a maze of 290 meters that the faithful used to follow on their knees. Ouch.

Read more about the cathedral on the Chartres Cathedral website, including information about opening times and history.

Practical Information for Visiting Chartres

Chartres is located about an hour’s drive or train ride southwest of Paris. If you decide to make Chartres an overnight stop on the way farther west to visit the châteaux in the Loire Valley, here are accommodation options:



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Sagrada Familia in Barcelona

I confess that I did not visit the Sagrada Familia (#6) until my 3rd and most recent trip to Barcelona. The first time I was 21 and intimidated by seeing phalanxes of helmeted soldiers close in around me in the Plaza Catalunya. This was during the Franco years in the 1970s. On my second visit, I’d failed to get tickets ahead of time. The line of people who did not have the foresight to book ahead stretched around the building, and so I passed.

Finally, 3rd time lucky! I purchased my ticket to the Sagrada Familia online and well in advance of my visit and happily breezed past the long line-ups of very hot tourists on a day when the temperature hovered around a very humid 35 degrees.

Sagrada Familia Cathedral, Barcelona, Spain
Sagrada Familia Cathedral, Barcelona

Even with a ticket, make sure you arrive at least 30 minutes prior to your entry time. You’ll still queue but not for as long as will the poor souls who didn’t plan ahead. When I visited at 3 pm, people were being told that the next entrance time was at 6.

The Sagrada Familia was started in the 1880s and is not yet finished. Cranes arch across the towers, and you’ll hear hammers pounding. After visiting the interior, take a leisurely walk around the building to admire the intricate sculptures encrusting the walls like artsy barnacles. 

What’s Special About the Sagrada Familia?

At your scheduled time, if you’re not taking a tour, join the hordes trudging around the perimeter of the basilica to the entrance for ticket holders, and pick up an audio guide (included in the ticket price and very informative) as you enter.

Then prepare to be blown away!

The interior of the Sagrada Familia is like nowhere else on earth. Abstract patterns in blues, golds, greens, and reds bounce the Barcelona sun across faces, walls, t-shirts, and floors.

High above, star-shaped openings punch the roof to let the sun stream in like bolts of pure light.

Take your time exploring the Sagrada Familia. I suggest grabbing a pew and just sitting, listening to the audio guide and letting the beauty of the place soak in.

Regardless of your religious convictions, you can’t help but appreciate the magnificence of the architecture as a fitting celebration of spirit. You may never want to leave.

To book tickets, go directly to the Sagrada Familia website.

Practical Information for Visiting Barcelona

For more information about what to do and see in Barcelona, check out my post on Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Trendy Barcelona. In addition to my suggestions, here are tours to consider.

I recommend staying at least 2 days and 3 nights in Barcelona. Check out my suggestions for where to stay in Barcelona.

Basilica of San Vitale in Ravenna, Italy

I singled out the Basilica of San Vitale (#7) in Ravenna for this post, but when you go to Ravenna, you definitely want to visit all the churches and mausoleums containing the Byzantine mosaics dating from the 5th and 6th centuries.

Basilica di San Vitale, Ravenna, Italy
Basilica di San Vitale, Ravenna, Italy

Start at the Basilica of San Vitale, which contains the most famous mosaics, including those showing the Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora.

yzantine mosaic representing the Empress Theodora and her court in the Basilica San Vitale, Ravenna, Italy
Byzantine mosaic representing the Empress Theodora and her court in the Basilica San Vitale, Ravenna, Italy

When you arrive at the Basilica San Vitale, buy your combination ticket for all 6 UNESCO World Heritage sites in central Ravenna.

The combination ticket is also available at a few other locations, including the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, the Neonian Baptistry, and the Archbishop’s Chapel. Basically, buy your ticket at the first site you visit.

Or buy tickets online.

The sites are almost all within walking distance of each other and you’ll need a full day to see them all, with a long break to enjoy lunch in the lovely Piazza del Popolo in the center of Ravenna.

What’s Special about Basilica San Vitale

I’ve known about the Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna, particularly the ones in San Vitale, ever since I studied art history at university.

Seeing pictures of the mosaics in books was impressive enough, but the real mosaics take your breath away. You’ll also end up with a sore neck within a few minutes of entering San Vitale. Be warned and pace yourself. When you visit San Vitale, and indeed all the Byzantine sites in Ravenna, you spend a lot of time looking up.

But the pain is worth it. Built in 525, the Basilica San Vitale is by far the oldest of the cathedrals presented in this post and one of the oldest in Christendom. And yet its mosaics look like they were made yesterday. It’s almost impossible to believe they are getting on for 1,500 years old.

What also struck me was the modernity of many of the decorative elements surrounding the figurative mosaics. You’ll also see many details from the natural world, such as birds, flowers, and small animals.

Exquisite detail of the byzantine mosaic in the mausoleum of  Galla Placidia in Ravenna, Italy
Exquisite detail of the Byzantine mosaic in the mausoleum of Galla Placidia in Ravenna, Italy

Practical Information for Visiting Ravenna

Ravenna is located about 145 kilometers (a 2-hour drive) south of Venice and 85 kilometers due east of Bologna on the Adriatic Sea. The city makes a great stop either on your way to or from Venice.

I recommend staying at least a night in Ravenna so you have plenty of time to tour both the Basilica San Vitale and the other World Heritage sites containing Byzantine mosaics. Check out my suggestions for where to stay in Ravenna.

Siena Cathedral in Siena, Italy

Siena Cathedral (Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) (#8) has so much to offer that you’ll need the better part of a day to explore and appreciate it and the adjacent museum.

Chock full of fabulous art, much of it from the 14th century (my favorite century for art!), Siena Cathedral is my top pick for best medieval cathedral in Italy.

Carol Cram overlooking Siena Cathedral.
Overlooking Siena Cathedral after a bit of a stiff climb

To start with, the exterior of the cathedral is stunning, with its black and white striped tower and super ornate facade. Dating from the 12th century, the cathedral is a masterpiece of Romanesque and Gothic architecture.

Facade of Siena Cathedral
Siena Cathedral

Siena Cathedral Highlights

The interior of the cathedral is just as stunning (maybe even more so) than its exterior. Here are the highlights of Siena Cathedral and the adjoining museum.

Cathedral Floor

You’ll spend a lot of time looking down when you’re inside Siena Cathedral. In fact, its floor is the most interesting floor I’ve ever seen in a cathedral. Giorgio Vasari, who wrote the famous round-up of artists called Lives of the Most Excellent Painters, Sculptors, and Architects in the 16th century, considered the floor in Siena Cathedral the “most beautiful…, largest and most magnificent floor ever made.”

He got that right. The floor consists of 56 inlay panels created between the 14th and 19th centuries. All of the artists who worked on the floor were Sienese, except for Pinturicchio who was from Umbria. The panels represent the sibyls, scenes from the Old Testament, allegories, and virtues, and remarkably, most are still in their original state. 

A panel in Siena Cathedral's Floor showing the She-Wolf of Siena dating from 1373
A panel in Siena Cathedral’s floor showing the She-Wolf of Siena dating from 1373

Piccolomini Library

I confess that I had not heard of the Piccolomini Library, which is a sad admission for a lover of medieval and Renaisannce art. But there you go, and I’ve now discovered the error of my ways.

The library is to the left of the nave when you enter the cathedral. You might need to line up to get in.

Between 1503 and 1508, Pinturicchio covered the walls and ceiling of the library with scenes celebrating the life and work of Pope Pius II. You’ll be amazed by the atmospheric landscapes, the splendid costumes of the figures, and the rich, enamelled palette. The colors look like they were applied yesterday. The frescoes truly are a wonder.

Gate of Heaven

Recently, the cathedral began to allow people to tour a series of rooms at the top of the cathedral. You can walk above the nave to admire views both inside and outside the cathedral. It looks pretty cool (I haven’t done it yet!).

Museo dell’Opera

Not all museums attached to cathedrals are worth visiting, but the Museo dell’Opera is. The museum houses numerous masterpieces. My favorite (and the biggest draw) is the Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna (usually referred to as Duccio).

Duccio painted Mary and Jesus (Maestà means a madonna and child) in the early 14th century for the cathedral’s altarpiece. He is considered one of the greatest Italian painters of the late medieval period and is credited with created the paintings styles of the Sienese school.

The Duccio altarpiece is housed is quite a large room, suitably darkened and climate controlled and equipped with chairs so you can sit and contemplate this miraculous work for as long as you want.

Duccio's Maestà altarpiece in the Museo dell'Opera at Siena Cathedral
Source: Creative Commons
Duccio’s Maestà altarpiece in the Museo dell’Opera at Siena Cathedral
Source: Creative Commons

Duccio’s altarpiece is close to my heart because I feature it in my novel The Towers of Tuscany about a fictional woman painter in 14th century Italy who spent some time in Siena.

The museum also includes sculptures by Donatello, Pisano, and Jacopo della Quercia, a treasury that exhibits fabulous works by goldsmiths and jewelers, and a very rare collection of illuminated manuscripts.

I was in 7th heaven in this museum.

Practical Information for Visiting Siena

Siena is located about an hour south of Florence and 2 hours north of Rome in beautiful Tuscany. To read more about Tuscany (one of my all-time favorite places to visit in Italy), see my post on Tuscany and Umbria.

Here are other tour options in Siena and the surrounding countryside.

I recommend staying at least 2 nights in Siena to give you ample time to explore this wonderful city and to just relax in the Campo. Check out my suggestions for where to stay in Siena.

Summary

You can’t go far in Europe without coming across cathedrals and churches with historical significance. Every village has a stone church, its steeple rising above the surrounding countryside, the style changing from region to region.

If you enjoy learning about the building of the great Gothic cathedrals in Europe, then pick up copies of Ken Follett’s Kingsbridge Series. The three extraordinary novels chart the course of the fictional Kingsbridge Cathedral through four centuries. A prequel to The Pillars of the Earth is coming in September, 2020.

Do you have a favorite European cathedral or church you’d like to share with other Artsy Travelers?

Exploring Burgos and León along the Camino of Santiago

Burgos and León are both fascinating cities located along the Camino of Santiago in northern Spain.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie spent time in Burgos and León during her journey along the Camino of Santiago.

In this post, Elizabeth shares what to see and do in two of northern Spain’s most beautiful—and often under-visited—cities.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago

Orientation to Burgos & Leon

The map below includes the places mentioned in this post. Click a number to find out more information.

Exploring Burgos

Burgos is the provincial capital of Castilla y León in northern Spain. Its location on the Camino de Santiago route makes it a natural stopping point for pilgrims traveling the Way. This gorgeous medieval city is well worth a day or two of any traveler’s time.

If you’re traveling in northern Spain, put Burgos on your itinerary. Major sights include:

  • One of Spain’s most magnificent cathedrals
  • A castle
  • An atmospheric old city
  • Excellent museums, including the world-class Museo de Evolución Humana
  • The wonderfully photogenic Arco de Santa Maria
  • Wonderful food.

Museo de Evolución Humana

The Museo de Evolución Humana (#1) (Museum of Human Evolution) is simply terrific and a highlight of our travels in northern Spain. The modern glass construction with high open spaces houses three floors of authentic and reproduction artifacts, including bones, skulls, animal jaws, tools, and portable art.

Adults and kids alike enjoy the interactive displays and quizzes, the videoclips of recent discoveries, the various re-enactments and interpretations of early humans’ social behaviours, and marvellous representations of various members of Australopithecus and Homo.

The museum also includes exhibits on Atapuerca, the archaeological site north of Burgos. Here, Europe’s oldest human fossil remains were discovered in 2007. We walked past Atapuerca on our way into Burgos.

Menhirs in a field near Atapeurca in northern Spain
Standing stones near Atapuerca in the Province of Burgos and near the Way

Lucky for us, the museum was almost empty. We were able to spend as much time as we liked in front of the various displays and interactive activities.

Statue of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar

On your way from the museum back to the central plaza in Burgos, you pass a statue of hometown boy Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, better known as El Cid, who was born in Burgos in 1043 and died in 1099.

Statue of El Cid mounted on horseback with sword in Burgos

El Cid was a Castilian knight and warlord who became a Spanish folk hero and national icon as a result of his service in the armies of both Christian and Muslim rulers, and his temporary conquest of Valencia. El Cid is the protagonist in the most significant medieval Spanish epic poem, El Cantar de Mio Cid.

The Cathedral of Burgos

The 13th-century Cathedral of Burgos (#2)—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—is massive, incorporating the church itself, the cloisters, the Bishop’s Palace, and part of the original city walls. The interior has three naves separated by rows of huge columns and flanked by fifteen side chapels containing altars, tombs, relics, and precious artifacts. 

View of Burgos Cathedral in Burgos, Spain
Burgos Cathedral is one of the most important cathedrals in Spain.

Everywhere you look, whether on the facades or inside the cathedral, you’ll see decoration or carving. The term “el horror del vacío” (“the horror of empty space”) was never so applicable as in the interior of Burgos Cathedral.

The magnificent star-vaulted dome and the spectacular rose windows are awe-inspiring. Also amazing are the gold plating and ornate carvings on the retablo of the high altar that depicts the life of the Virgin Mary.

Altar in the Cathedral of Burgos
Altar in the Cathedral of Burgos

Saints, angels, the nobility, important clergy, and the monarchs appear below the deities—a reminder of God’s absolute power.

One of the highlights in the cathedral is a portrait of Mary Magdalene by Leonardo da Vinci (~1515 ). We also saw one of El Cid’s trunks and a small wooden door with a carved face into whose mouth pilgrims inserted small coins.

If you go, rent the audio guide to learn about the art and architecture. The Cathedral of Burgos ranks alongside the likes of Westminster Abbey, Notre Dame in Paris, and Milan Cathedral—but without the crowds.

Burgos Castle

Include a visit to Burgos Castle (#3), with its original structure and fortifications dating to the 9th century. The small museum is interesting, but the real attraction is the spectacular view over the city of Burgos.

Arco de Santa Maria

The Arco de Santa Maria (#4) is one of the twelve medieval doors that led into the medieval city of Burgos. Rebuilt by Charles V in the 16th century, the structure is worth a stop to admire the carvings on the facade. You can go inside to view special exhibitions and a small museum. At night, the Arco de Santa Maria is beautifully illuminated.

View of the Arco de Santa Maria, an ornately carved wall in Burgos, Spain
Arco de Santa Maria in Burgos

Tours in Burgos

Here are some options for tours in Burgos through GetYourGuide:

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León

León is a delightful small city that is a bit off the beaten path but worth a visit for its magnificent cathedral, beautiful old town, and the chance to stay in Parador de León, Hostal de San Marcos, Spain’s top parador (see description below).

We stayed two nights in León which, like Burgos, is situated on the Camino. In fact, the Camino crosses the large plaza in front of the parador. The distinctive concha design symbolizing the Camino is everywhere in León, including on the facades of the buildings.

Historic Center of León

The historic centre of León is utterly charming, with narrow streets and very old and historic buildings. Some of the architecture incorporates the city walls of Roman times. You’ll find plenty of small and large plazas lined with outdoor cafés and interesting shops.

Take time to wander around the town, even occasionally getting lost while appreciating the beauty of this wonderfully walkable city.

León Cathedral

Often dubbed La Casa de la Luz (House of Light), the 13th-century Catedral Santa María de León (#5) is magnificent. Soaring sandstone towers glow in the evening light, and the interior is breathtaking, with three rose windows instead of the usual one.

View of the Cathedral of Leon in Spain
Cathedral of León in Spain

The cathedral was built on the site of the 2nd-century Roman baths, which were converted to a royal palace around the year 1000. A masterpiece of Gothic architecture, the cathedral consists of two towers with a large portal between them, and flying buttresses crusted with gargoyles on the exterior walls.

León is often referred to as the city of stained glass, and no wonder. Windows dating from the 13th to the 15th century contain over 1,800 square meters of stained glass. Also inside the cathedral are hundreds of pieces of sacred art, including examples from Romanesque to Neoclassical times.

León’s cathedral is one of the most important along the Way.

Basilica of San Isidro

Don’t miss the smaller but equally enchanting Basilica of San Isidro (#6). Located on the site of an ancient Roman temple, the church’s Christian roots extend to the early 10th century when a monastery for Saint John the Baptist was erected on the grounds.

Basilica of San Isidro, León - Spain
Basilica of San Isidro, León – Spain

Built in the Romanesque style, the basilica also has elements of both Gothic and Islamic architecture. Check out the 12th-century painted murals in the funeral chapel of the kings of León. The exceptionally well-preserved murals present New Testament subjects as well as scenes of contemporary rural life.

Stay at the Parador de León

The Parador de León (#7) is one of the most luxurious places I’ve ever stayed. Sponsored by the Spanish government, the parador system of lodgings includes refurbished historic buildings, such as castles, monasteries, and royal residences. The system also includes some purpose-built, modern hotels.

Parador San Marcos in  León
Parador San Marcos in León

For five-star luxury, we paid about €170 each for two nights—a serious bargain, considering the service and surroundings.

King Ferdinand founded the Parador de León, Hostal de San Marcos in the early 16th century as a church and hospital for knights of the Order of Saint James. Some of the original staircase has been preserved, as have the curved ceilings, chandeliers, and cloister windows. Fabulous portraits and Renaissance artifacts and armour adorn the lobby and corridors.

Our room—which we accessed with a large skeleton key—was located in one of the converted monks’ cells in the cloister. The room was beautifully appointed with 1000-count monogrammed sheets, slippers, and luxury toiletries.

Museum at the Parador

Visit the church and museum attached to the parador. The original buildings were erected on the remains of a Roman fortress, and the church dates from the mid-12th century. Many sarcophagi and Roman stelae from ancient times dot the lovely cloister gardens. Sadly, parts of the church grounds have a darker past when they served as a prison for suspected or accused fighters in the Spanish Civil War.  

Tours in León

Here are some options for tours in León through Tiqets.com:

Conclusion

Even if you’re not walking the Camino, put Burgos and León on your itinerary in northern Spain. For more information about places to visit in northern Spain, including both Santiago de Compostela and Bilbao, see Exploring Northern Spain and Basque Country.

For more about Elizabeth’s journey along the Camino read her Top Tips for Walking the Camino of Santiago and excerpts from her journal in A Camino Journal: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela.