Bar at the Folies Bergeres by Manet

Best of the Courtauld Gallery in London: A Treasure Trove for the Artsy Traveler

I recently visited the Courtauld Gallery within hours of landing at Heathrow after flying to London from Vancouver. After three years away from Europe, I was itching to see great art, and the Courtauld Gallery turned out to be the perfect place to ease my way back into artsy traveling.

It’s small, it’s centrally located, and its collection is exquisite.

The highlights of the Courtauld Gallery are the truly impressive Impressionist collection and the medieval collection.

The Courtauld Gallery is part of the renowned Courtauld Institute of Art. This research-led higher education institution is the University of London’s largest community of art historians, conservators and curators. The gallery recently reopened after being closed for three years. The new and improved version is little short of spectacular.

Like the vast majority of visitors, I headed first to the top floor to view the Impressionist collection and the special exhibition of paintings by Edvard Munch (see my review of this exhibition). The room containing the Impressionist collection attracts the most visitors and can get a bit crowded.

I walked into the large room containing a delicious collection of Impressionists and immediately had to sit down to prevent myself from falling down and embarrassing myself. What I really wanted to do is laugh out loud and twirl myself past masterpiece after masterpiece, giddy with the beauty surrounding me.

When, finally, I collected myself, I began pacing slowly and reverently past gorgeous painting after gorgeous painting by all the biggies—Monet, Cézanne, Gauguin, Renoir, and on and on.

Here are just a few of the highlights of the Impressionist collection.

Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan by Paul Cézanne

Image of the painting entitled "all Trees at the Jas de Bouffan" showing a row of trees in Provence by Paul Cezanne included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan” by Paul Cezanne

Cézanne painted many views of the countryside surrounding Jas de Bouffan, a rural estate outside Aix-en-Provence owned by Cézanne’s father. Having visited the area, I can attest that Cézanne captures the shimmering quality of the light and the particularly vivid shades of green unique to Provence. My favorite Cézannes are his paintings of the Provence landscapes and this one is a keeper for sure!

Young Woman Powdering Herself by Georges Seurat

Painting called "Young Woman Powdering Herself" by Goerges Seurat showing a woman wearing a red corset and holding a powder puff. The style is pointillist and the piece is included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Young Woman Powdering Herself” by Georges Seurat

I’ve long been a fan of Georges Seurat who created the “pointillist” style of painting. He followed newly formulated optical theories by placing colors from opposite sides of the color wheel–orange and blue; pink and green–next to each other to create contrast. Seurat died at age 31 but he left behind some stunning works, this one being his only major portrait.

Self Portrait with Bandaged Ear by Vincent van Gogh

"Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear" by Vincent van Gogh" included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear” by Vincent van Gogh

I couldn’t believe the Courtauld had this piece! It’s one of my favorite van Goghs. I love how he contrasts the various colors–blue hat, green coat, orange face–and also includes the image of one of the Japanese prints he collected. Van Gogh was heavily influenced by Japanese printmaking. He painted this piece in 1889, a week after leaving hospital following the famous incident when he cut off a portion of his left ear after a heated argument with Paul Gauguin. Even injured, van Gogh was determined to keep painting.

The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin

The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin

And speaking of Gauguin, I was thrilled to see this piece which he painted while he was living in Brittany. Gregg Simpson (husband and painter) is currently working on the Pont Aven Suite, a series inspired by Gauguin’s Brittany paintings, so Gauguin has been a regular topic of a conversation in our house. I love how Gauguin simplifies and flattens forms and colors. This piece has so much movement–the women raking hay above and the man driving the oxen below.

A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Edouard Manet

The Bar at the Folies Bergeres by Edoaurd Manet included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
A Bar at the Folies-Bergères by Edouard Manet

Fabulous as all the pieces in the Impressionist collection are, the best of all is my old friend A Bar at the Folies-Bergères by Manet. What a painting!

The young barmaid (the model’s name was Suzon) looks out at the viewer, her expression both bored and vulnerable at the same time. According to the descriptive text next to the piece, “Manet created a complex and absorbing compostion that is considered one of the iconic paintings of modern life.” That is certainly true!

Suzon is every person in the world working in a dead-end job they hate and yet obliged to pretend they enjoy for the sake of the customers.

After thoroughly exploring the top floor, I began my descent to the other two floors to explore the rest of the Courtauld Gallery’s collection. I was in for a treat as it turned out.

One of my favorite eras for painting is the middle ages, particularly the first half of the 14th century when artists were not worried about perspective and realism. I love the use of gold, the pastel shades of the egg tempera paint the artists used, and the lego-like way in which they depicted medieval buildings.

Well, the Courtauld delivered! To my delight, it houses a lovely medieval collection that includes such notables as Lorenzetti and Duccio—two hometown boys from Siena, my fave Italian city (and one of the settings for The Towers of Tuscany).

As is often the case in art museums, the medieval rooms were pretty much empty so I drifted from painting to painting and admired to my heart’s content.

A highlight is a series of small panels painted by Fra Angelico (1417-1455) that depicts six female saints. Each face is incredibly expressive and compelling. I wonder who Fra Angelico used as models.

Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in the black habit of a nun created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in a blue robe trimmed with gold and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in a red robe and with long hair, and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in a pink cloak and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint wearing a red gown trimmed with gold and a green cape, and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint wearing a simple blue gown and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.

After thoroughly exploring and enjoying the large collection of medieval art, I toured the rest of the collection. There’s a fair number of works from the 16th to the 19th centuries, including works by Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Reynolds, and Rubens.

A big selling point of the Courtauld is its compact size and that each piece in the colleciton is stellar. I don’t think I’ve ever visited an art museum where the quality of all the pieces is so uniformly high.

After my visit, I got chatting with the young man in the gift shop. He enthusiastically agreed that the Courtauld’s collection is first-rate and also kindly listened to me rattle on about how I first visited the Courtauld with my mom back in 1970 (likely a good forty years befor he was born!)

Here are two more of my favorites at the Courtauld Gallery.

Adam and Eve by Cranach the Elder included in the collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Adam and Eve” by Cranach the Elder
Landscape with the Flight into Egypt painting by Pieter Bruegel the Elder and ncluded in the collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Landscape with the Flight Into Egypt” by Pieter Bruegel the Elder

The Courtauld Gallery is open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Book your ticket in advance on the website to avoid line-ups and also to make sure you get in! Check the website also for special exhibitions. The Munch exhibition I saw was definitely worth the extra price.

London Tours & Tickets

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Conclusion

As my first visit to a world-class art museum in three years, the Courtauld was the perfect choice. It gently eased me back into artsy traveling, doling out artsy hits like small bites of gourmet chocolates—each one more flavorful than the last and yet all equally fabulous.

Have you visited the Courtauld? Which piece was your favorite? Share your experience in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts about favorite art museums in Europe:

Art Masterpieces in Tuscany You Don’t Want to Miss

Art masterpieces in Tuscany are as thick on the ground as grapes at harvest time. When you visit Tuscany, you’ll enjoy la dolce vita, for sure, but in between sips of some of the world’s best wine, prepare to have your breath taken away by some of the world’s most cherished art.

Let’s face it, Tuscany is the perfect storm for the cultural tourist—stunning scenery, amazing food, tons of history, and world-class art. 

In this post, I present a selection of the art masterpieces to consider including in your Tuscany travels—whether this is your first trip or your tenth (or somewhere in between).

Giant stone sculpture of a bearded man surrounded by trees, featured in an artsy traveler blog post titled “Art in Tuscany: Ten Masterpieces You Don’t Want to Miss.”

Art Masterpieces in Tuscany

You’ll recognize some of the art masterpieces included in this post, but others you may not be familiar with. I include both individual masterworks and art destinations in Tuscany.

A few of my suggested places are a fair way off the beaten path which means they won’t be crowded. 

Organization

I’ve grouped the art masterpieces by location, starting with Florence:

  • Florence
  • Villa Demidoff (Outside Florence)
  • San Gimignano
  • Siena
  • Il Giardino dei Tarocchi near Grosseto

The map of Tuscany below shows the general locations of the masterpieces covered in this post. See individual places for more detailed maps.

My list is in no way exhaustive. Tuscany is chock-a-block with art masterpieces, and to list all of them requires books, not blog posts.

This list is a starting point to help you create your own perfect Tuscany itinerary.

Art Masterpieces in Florence

For many travelers to Tuscany, Florence is their only destination, which is a shame. Florence is worth visiting, and you’ll find plenty to see, but it’s also extremely crowded and lacks the charm of other, smaller Tuscan towns, such as Siena and Lucca.

Florence Cathedral’s iconic dome and bell tower rising above a dense cluster of terracotta rooftops with mountains in the distance.
Duomo in Florence, Italy

That said, if you haven’t been to Florence, then you should include it on your itinerary. Stay at least two nights and preferably three or four.

You won’t run out of art masterpieces to enjoy.

Map of Florence

Florence is a very walkable and compact city. You can easily stroll between each of the Florence sites.

Trip map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

Uffizi

The Uffizi is art masterpiece-central in Tuscany and a must-see during your visit to Florence. But be warned! You really, really need to make reservations for the Uffizi.

Don’t just show up hoping to walk right in. That is, unless you enjoy standing in long lines that move an inch a minute while all the people with pre-purchased tickets whisk by. It’s disheartening.

Here are ticket options for the Uffizi.

I’m including my three favourite must-see masterpieces in the Uffizi, but you’ll find many more.

Take a virtual tour.

The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333)

That’s a mouthful. I just call it Martini’s Annunciation. The subject of the annunciation—when the angel Gabriel flutters to earth and informs Mary she is to be the mother of Christ—was popular in medieval and Renaissance art.

I love this version by Martini and Memmi because of the expression on Mary’s face. She’s like, what? Seriously?

Gothic triptych altarpiece showing the Annunciation, with an angel and Mary flanked by two saints in a gilded, ornate frame.
The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333) [Public domain]

I’m also taken with the gold background and the flatness of the figures.

Annunciation by da Vinci

In later centuries, Annunciations, such as the famous one by Leonardo da Vinci below, look more realistic, but I like the energy and composition of the Martini one the best.

The da Vinci Annunciation is also in the Uffizi. You’ll see it after you view the Martini and Memmi version.

Leonardo da Vinci’s “Annunciation” painting, showing the angel Gabriel greeting the Virgin Mary with a serene garden backdrop.
The Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci: Public Domain

You’ll come across the Martini masterpiece shortly after entering the Uffizi. A lot of people trudge right past it on a beeline for the more famous paintings by Botticelli, da Vinci, et al, but stop in the galleries of 14th-century paintings and spend some time.

You’ll be well rewarded and won’t be jostling for viewing room with thousands of selfie-stick wielders.

Birth of Venus by Botticelli (1485)

You’ve probably seen many reproductions of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. The goddess of beauty and love arrives on the island of Cyprus, born of the sea spray and blown by the winds Zephyr and Aura (seen in the top left corner).

Venus perches on the edge of a giant scallop shell as goddesses are wont to do. She’s just so danged perfect. I mean, look at that hair!

“Birth of Venus” depicting the goddess Venus emerging from a seashell on the sea, with figures blowing wind and a robed woman awaiting her arrival.
Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli: Public Domain

The room containing several paintings by Botticelli is generally crowded, so if possible, visit the Uffizi early or late in the day so you can sit and enjoy his work.

Other Works by Botticelli

In addition to Birth of Venus, you’ll also see Botticelli’s equally famous Primavera along with several more of his paintings exhibited in four consecutive rooms.

And once you’ve finished looking at the real things, you can buy them on just about every knick-knack known to humanity in the many gift shops of Florence. Primavera mouse pad? Sure. Birth of Venus apron? Definitely.

Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi

Hooray for Artemisia Gentileschi, one of the first recognized woman artists of the Baroque period. Several other women artists from the period (and earlier) have gained notice in recent years, but Artemisia is the one most people think of when asked to name a woman artist from back in the day.

She was also the first woman to be admitted to the Academy of Art and Design in Florence.

Artemisia’s painting of Judith beheading poor old Holofernes (hey, he deserved it) is an amazing work. Look at Judith’s muscles as she holds down Holofernes.

This subject was a favorite of the period, and male artists usually depicted Judith as a bit of an ethereal wimp. Not Artemisia. She doesn’t shy away from showing the sheer brute strength that Judith would need to saw the head off a man. She and her maid are working hard!

Dramatic Baroque painting by Artemisia Gentileschi, depicting Judith and her servant beheading Holofernes with expressions of intense determination.
Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi: Public Domain

Davids

That’s Davids plural because in Florence you must see the super-famous David by Michelangelo as well as the not-quite-so-famous-but still-awesome David by Donatello.

Both Davids are art masterpieces that represent the Renaissance in different ways.

Michelangelo’s David

Michelangelo’s David hangs out in the Academia, another place for which you must secure reservations or risk a long line-up.

David stands with magnificent insouciance at the end of a long hallway lined with other works by Michelangelo.

Some of these works are unfinished—human figures emerging half-formed from marble blocks. I like these works almost more than the finished sculptures because they show the process of turning blocks into humans.

Close-up of Michelangelo’s David statue, showing detailed facial features and the muscular hand gripping a stone sling.
Michelangelo’s David in the Academia Gallery in Florence

When you finally work your way up to the front of the line and stand in front of David in all his naked glory, you’ll know what all the fuss is about. He is magnificent.

Although sculpted from marble, the muscles and sinews appear to pulse with life. Every inch of him is perfection—a testament to the beauty and power of the human form.

I remember wandering around the back of him and staring up at a pair of buttocks that any gym rat would kill for. While thinking unholy thoughts, I was joined by a bevy of nuns. They weren’t speaking English, so I couldn’t understand what they were saying, but they were definitely smiling—and, truth be told, giggling.

Well, no wonder.

Donatello’s David

Donatello’s David at the marvelous Bargello Museum (reservations also recommended) might as well be a different species.

Where Michelangelo’s marble-carved David is tall, strong, and, let’s face it, hunky, Donatello’s bronze David is relaxed, laid-back, and kind of pretty.

He wears a hat festooned with flowers and leans on his sword, one hand on his hip. He’s like, come on Goliath, I dare ya to come at me.

Rear view of Donatello's bronze statue of David, showcasing intricate details of David standing over Goliath’s head in a Renaissance museum settin
David by Donatello at the Bargello Museum: Public Domain

Donatello’s David is famous for being the first free-standing bronze sculpture since antiquity.

The Bargello Museum—a former prison—includes many more masterpieces to enjoy, including sculptures by Benvenuto Cellini and works by Michelangelo, including his statue of Bacchus.

Fra Angelico at the Museo di San Marco

I visited the Museo di San Marco on my most recent trip to Florence and was very glad I did. It’s a little off the beaten path which means it’s not crowded—a relief in Florence.

The museum is housed in the former Dominican Monastery (called the Convento di San Marco) where Fra’ Angelico lived as a monk from 1436 to 1455 and painted his stunning frescoes.

Wander down the long corridor flanked on either side by the monk’s cells and stop at each cell to view Fra’ Angelico’s frescoes. I love the way he painted angel wings—very art deco-looking and colorful.

Fresco of the Annunciation by Fra Angelico, depicting the angel Gabriel delivering a message to a kneeling Virgin Mary inside a vaulted room.
Annunciation by Fra Angelico in Cell 3: Public Domain

The museum contains numerous masterpieces by Fra’ Angelico, including the magnificent fresco in the Chapter House and his famous version of the Annunciation located at the top of the stairs leading to the cells. As I mentioned, I’m partial to Annunciations, and Fra’ Angelico’s version is one of the best.

Savonarola: A Burning Tale

You can also peek into the cell once occupied by the infamous Savonarola, who preached vociferously against greed and luxury and denounced clerical corruption, despotic rule, and the exploitation of the poor.

Unfortunately for Savonarola, he went too far with his well-attended but over-the-top spectacles, including his Bonfires of the Vanities, and ended up hanged and burned in 1498.

Oops.

Brancacci Chapel

The attraction at the lovely Brancacci Chapel across the Arno in a quieter and less touristy area of Florence are the gorgeous frescoes by Masaccio and Masolino. The Chapel is located away from the tourist hordes and requires a pleasantly long walk through a Florentine neighborhood in which people actually live.

I stopped for lunch at a café with three tiny tables perched on the edge of the sidewalk and enjoyed being the only tourist in the vicinity.

I was entertained watching a group of well-heeled, impeccably dressed Florentine businessmen lunching nearby. Each man looked like he’d stepped straight out of one of the Renaissance frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel. Substitute business suits for tights and cloaks and not much has changed.

Fresco of biblical figures gathered in a public square, with medieval architecture in the background. The figures are interacting with a beggar on the left and people seated on the right.
The Healing of Tabitha by Masolino at the Brancacci Chapel in Florence: Public Domain

Admission to the Brancacci Chapel is limited so purchase your tickets in advance. Tickets from this site let you skip the line, and provide a video guide.

You’ll be struck by the vivid colors in the Masaccio and Masolino frescoes commissioned in 1424. The Expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise is especially evocative.

Other Suggestions for Florence

Palazzo Davanzati

Tour this medieval palazzo to discover what life was like for wealthy people in the early Renaissance. I had a great visit even though the guided tour was in Italian.

It didn’t matter; I could still get a good idea of how people lived. A highlight is the painted walls in many of the rooms. When I was writing my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, I often envisioned the layout of the rooms in the Palazzo Davanzati as I wrote.

Boboli Gardens

Treat yourself to a refreshing walk through these beautiful gardens with spectacular views over Florence and the Tuscan countryside.

A path in the Boboli Gardens of Florence, lined with lush green hedges and trees, leading up a hill with statues and classical structures dotting the landscape.
The beautifully green Boboli Gardens in Florence

When it’s hot (as it often is in Florence), do yourself a favor and escape the crush of tour groups in the center of the city and take a taxi across the Arno to the Boboli Gardens. Once again, you can skip the line by purchasing your ticket ahead (see options below).

Florence overflows with interesting museums and churches and artwork to keep you busy for days. And don’t forget shopping! Florence is the place in Tuscany to buy leather goods (although they can be cheaper in Siena but without as much choice).

Ticket Options for Florence

Here are ticket options for enjoying the many artsy sights in Florence. Purchase tickets in advance for the Uffizi and the Accademia and consider some of the tours.

Tours in Florence

Here are some Get Your Guide tour options in Florence.

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Villa Demidoff – Outside Florence

In the gardens of the Villa Demidoff in Pratolino, about ten kilometers north of Florence in the beautiful Tuscan countryside, you can visit the aptly named Colossus. A seated figure that appears to be half rock, half man broods on an outcropping above a pond.

I adore this statue! It’s just so darned unexpected. We visited a few years ago on a hot summer’s day and were captivated. The 35-foot tall Colossus is a colossal (ha!) statue created in the late 1500s by the Italian sculptor Giambologna.

The Appennine Colossus, a large stone sculpture of a mythical figure crouching with a flowing beard, surrounded by lush greenery in the gardens of Villa Demidoff in Tuscany.
Colossus at the Villa Demidoff near Florence

Despite his size, Colossus looks quite melancholy, as if he wished he could rise from the rocks keeping him captive and clomp off to a quiet grove where no one would take selfies with him. Inside Colossus are various chambers.

Other Sites in the Gardens

The gardens are home to several more interesting features, including the hexagonal Chapel of Buontalenti, a fantastic dragon sculpture behind Colossus, the Cupid’s grotto, and the fountain of Jupiter. The park is open every weekend from April to October, and admission is free. Before you go, check opening times on the park website.

For a good day out, rent a car and drive north to enjoy the park and the surrounding area, then have dinner in Fiesole while watching the sun set over Florence in the valley below.

You can also take a bus to Pratolino: catch the ATAF bus #25A from Piazza San Marco – the “A” is important. SITA also offers service to Pratolino from the main stop in SMN Piazza Stazione and CAP, with stops on Via Nazionale in Florence.

Art Masterpieces in Siena

Hands down, Siena is my favorite city in Tuscany. I never tire of wandering its narrow streets and then emerging, dazzled by the sun, into the Piazza del Campo—or Il Campo.

Called the most beautiful living room in Italy, Il Campo takes my breath away every time.

Campo in Siena at sunset
The breathtaking Campo in Siena

The first time I went to Siena by myself, I was so overcome with emotion by finally making it to the Campo, where several important scenes in my novel The Towers of Tuscany take place, that I dropped to my knees, lay down on my back, and took a selfie.

A woman lying on a patterned brick surface, smiling at the camera, with sunlight casting shadows on the historic herringbone-patterned pavement.
Relaxing on the 14th-century bricks of the Campo in Siena

Fortunately, no one batted an eye. Several people were doing the same, their backs warmed by bricks laid in the 1330s, not long before the Black Death carried away half of Siena’s population.

Siena is very compact, which is a good thing because the only way to get around is by walking. Fortunately, you can stroll between the two major sites–the cathedral and the palazzo publicco in just a few minutes. Use the map below to orient yourself.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

Piccolomini Library in the Cathedral of Siena

I single out the Piccolomini Library as one of two must-see masterpieces in Siena, but really, the entire cathedral (also known as the Duomo) is worth a half-day of your touring time.

You can skip the line by buying your tickets ahead. Your ticket is also good for the baptistery, crypt, and the Opera museum—all must-sees.

The exterior of the Siena Cathedral with its Gothic facade, intricate carvings, a large rose window, and the towering striped bell tower under a dramatic sky.
Cathedral Square and Duomo in Siena

Cathedral of Siena

A superb example of the Gothic Roman style in Italy, the Cathedral of Siena (the Duomo) is full of treasures. Marvel at the Duomo’s indoor and outdoor alternating stripes in white and greenish-black marble. Black and white are the symbolic colors of Siena.

Unlike the sparse interiors of some cathedrals in Italy, notably the Duomo in Florence, the interior of the Duomo of Siena is fantastically decorated.

A smiling woman standing in front of the Siena Cathedral with its black-and-white striped bell tower, dome, and cityscape of Siena visible in the background.
Overlooking the Duomo in Siena

Look for the statue of St. John the Baptist by Donatello to the right after the Piccolomini Library, the rose window by Duccio di Buoninsegna, and the marble pulpit by Nicola Pisano, along with many gorgeous frescoes.

One of the most beautiful parts of the cathedral is its floor. You can spend hours wandering around the huge mosaics to “read” the stories. The fifty-six etched and inlaid marble panels were designed between 1369 and 1547 by forty leading artists.

Piccolomini Library

And then there’s the Piccolomini Library itself. This place was a surprise to me. I hadn’t heard of it and so was in for a treat when I entered and had the breath knocked out of me (figuratively speaking).

The elaborately decorated ceiling of the Piccolomini Library in the Siena Cathedral, adorned with vibrant frescoes, geometric patterns, and intricate gold detailing.
Ceiling in the Piccolomini Library in the Siena Duomo

The library is dedicated to Enea Silvio Piccolomini, an immensely powerful man in the mid 1400s who was elected Pope Pius II in 1458. The big draw in the library are the frescoes by Pinturicchio.

Each of the ten scenes representing important stages in the life of Pope Pius II is exquisitely painted. The colors, perspective, figures, and backgrounds are incredibly detailed and evocative of their time. I was mesmerized.

Maestà Altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna

While you’re hanging around the Duomo, don’t miss the Opera museum (it’s part of your ticket) so you can admire the Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna that was commissioned by the cathedral in 1311.

I like the altarpiece because it’s gorgeous and because it makes a cameo appearance in my novel, The Towers of Tuscany.

A colorful religious painting depicting the Virgin Mary seated with baby Jesus, surrounded by saints and angels, all framed by intricate golden details and smaller portraits of religious figures.
Central panel of the Maestà, 1308–1311, by Duccio di Buoninsegna. Museo dell’Opera metropolitana del Duomo, Italy

Palazzo Pubblico in Siena

You can’t miss the Palazzo Pubblico in Il Campo. The much-photographed red brick palazzo that looks like a child’s drawing of a castle has become one of the most recognized views in Siena. I’ve taken my share of photos of it and the adjacent Torre Mangia.

The Palazzo Pubblico in Siena, Italy, with its tall Torre del Mangia against a clear blue sky, showcasing medieval architecture with its red brick facade and ornate clock tower.
Palazzo Pubblico in Siena

The Palazzo Pubblico dates from the early 14th century and played an important role in ensuring Siena enjoyed relative peace from the late 13th century to 1355.

While you tour the Museo Civico, read about the “Government of the Nine”, the system of government that consisted of nine representatives of the people elected from the middle class and not from the noble families. This relatively democratic form of government was responsible for commissioning many civic works of art in the first half of the 14th century.

Museo Civico – Torre Mangia

The Museo Civico is located on the first floor of the Palazzo Pubblico, which still functions as Siena’s city hall.

Enter the courtyard called the Cortile del Podestà to access the Museo Civico and, if you’re feeling energetic, climb the 400 steps to the top of the Torre Mangia.

The view is spectacular, but the narrow staircase is claustrophobic and, in the summer, very hot. I’ve climbed the Torre Mangia once and do not feel the need to do so again.

Frescoes in Sala del Mappamondo

There are plenty of interesting things to look at in the Museo Civico, but the big draw are the frescoes by Simone Martini and Ambrogio Lorenzetti.

The two large frescoes by Simone Martini are located in the massive hall called Sala del Mappamondo. You can’t miss it. To your left as you enter the hall is the Maestà by Simone Martini. The gorgeous fresco shows the Madonna seated on a throne with the Child and surrounded by angels and saints. Note all the haloes!

A large fresco painting featuring the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus, seated on a throne and surrounded by saints, angels, and other religious figures in a richly decorated frame.
Maestà by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain

Turn around and at the other end of the hall you’ll see the fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano, a general on his horse with the castles he just conquered in the distance. You’ll see reproductions of this piece throughout Siena.

I love how Guidoriccio and his horse are wearing the same ensemble. Very stylish.

 A medieval fresco showing a knight on horseback in elaborate armor, set against a backdrop of rolling hills, castles, and a fortified city.
Fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain

Frescoes in the Sala dei Nove

Now walk into the Sala dei Nove—the Hall of the Nine—to see Siena’s most famous masterpiece: the fresco cycle called Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti.

You’ll get a sore neck looking up at the three wall-size frescoes, famous because they’re interesting to look at and because they depict secular subjects instead of religious ones—a rarity at the time (1340s).

I love the girls dancing in the Good Government fresco (pictured below). Take a seat and enjoy gazing up at the frescoes. Whenever I’ve been to the Sala dei Novel, I’ve been pretty much alone.

Although famous, these frescoes aren’t that famous which means you’re likely able to enjoy them crowd-free.

A medieval fresco by Ambrogio Lorenzetti depicting a bustling city scene with buildings, people, horses, and vibrant daily life.
Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Pubblico, Siena: Public Domain

Other Suggestions for Siena

Siena is worth at least two days of your time, although people often squeeze it in as an afternoon trip from Florence. Please don’t do that!

Compared to overcrowded Florence, Siena is a medieval treat. Make room in your itinerary for a proper visit so you have ample time to get to know this delightful city. You won’t find many big-ticket sites, but that’s not the point of Siena.

Here are ticket options in Siena:

And when you’re not enjoying the art, spend time wandering the back streets. Enjoy a cappuccino in one of the cafés overlooking the Campo and buy yourself a leather purse or two. They are far more reasonably priced here than in Florence. My collection is growing!

A display of colorful leather purses hanging vertically, in red, pink, yellow, and brown, with detailed stitching and silver buckles.
Selection of leather purses in Siena
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Art Masterpieces in San Gimignano

San Gimignano is overrun with tourists and crammed with tacky tourist shops. And yet I love it!

Every time we visit Tuscany, we stay for a few days in the vicinity of San Gimignano. We usually spend the day either touring around the countryside or staying put in our hotel to write (me) and draw (Gregg).

The skyline of San Gimignano, with multiple medieval stone towers and bell towers rising above the terracotta rooftops, framed by trees and a clear blue sky.
San Gimignano

Then, towards the end of the afternoon when the parking lots surrounding Gimignano start to empty, we venture forth.

By 4 or 5 pm, the tour busses have lumbered off, the merchants are standing outside their shops taking a much-needed break, the hot streets are shaded by the towers, and the whole town seems to exhale with relief.

Stroll virtually deserted side streets in search of art and food (in that order). For a small hill town, San Gimignano punches above its weight in excellent restaurants.

You’ll see a lot of art in San Gimignano, but don’t miss these two sites which fortunately are close to each other:

Palazzo Comunale in the Civic Museum

Located next to the Duomo, the Civic Museum also includes the Torre Grossa—the tallest of San Gimignano’s seventeen towers and the only one you can climb.

I have climbed it, and it’s worth doing, but the real draw are the frescoes in the chamber of the Podestà in the Palazzo Comunale (which also has other good art to enjoy).

A panoramic view of San Gimignano’s historic skyline, with its famous stone towers rising above the red-tiled rooftops, surrounded by green countryside.
View from the top of the Torre Grossa in San Gimignano

Snares of Love

The series of frescoes is called the “snares of love”, painted by Memmo di Filippucio between 1303 to 1310.

Scenes show both profane love and scenes from marriage. I love the secular nature of these frescoes, especially the one where the young married couple share a bathtub.

A medieval fresco depicting two people sitting in a large wooden tub, one with a head covering, set against a background of rich red and gold fabric.
One of the frescoes in the Palazzo Comunale Civic Museum in San Gimignano

Frescoes in the Duomo of San Gimignano

The Duomo also contains an amazing number and variety of frescoes. Every wall on both sides of the nave is filled with frescoes, most dating from the 1300s.

The vivid colors are original; the frescoes have never required restoration.

A medieval fresco showing a lavish feast with two crowned figures at a banquet table, surrounded by servants, musicians, and a depiction of a heavenly figure above.
Fresco in the Duomo at San Gimignano by Bartolo di Fredi [CC BY-SA]

Get the audio guide and walk slowly around the frescoes, picking out scene after scene from the Old and New Testaments. Even if you’re not into Bible stories, you can’t help but be entranced by these frescoes. I enjoy studying the clothing and the facial expressions for inspiration.

Pick up a ticket to the Museum of Sacred Art in the Duomo that includes an audio guide from this link.

Other Suggestions for San Gimignano

Climb to the top of the ruined Fortezza (fortress) at the highest point in San Gimignano to enjoy spectacular views over the countryside.

Even when the main street is heaving with sweaty tourists, the Fortezza is usually virtually empty.

A woman in sunglasses smiles while standing atop a stone fortress, with the medieval towers of San Gimignano and lush rolling hills in the background.
Overlooking the towers of San Gimignano

San Gimignano 1300

One of my favorite museums in San Gimignano is San Gimignano 1300, located in a side street close to the Piazzale Comunale.

Here you’ll view a scale model of San Gimignano as it appeared in 1300.

A detailed miniature model showcasing the medieval town of San Gimignano, with tall stone towers and terracotta-roofed buildings closely packed together.

Grosseto – Il Giardino dei Tarocchi

I haven’t been to Grosseto, which I’m sure is a lovely town, but I list it as the closest place to The Tarot Garden (Il Giardino dei Tarocchi).

Here is where you’ll see a stunning collection of whimsical sculptures by modern artist Niki Saint Phalle. The sculptures are based on the Tarot cards and are a must-see if you’re looking for something far off the beaten path.

And the sculptures are a nice break from the medieval and Renaissance masterpieces that make up most of the art in Tuscany.

A colorful mosaic sculpture in The Tarot Garden featuring a large sun-faced figure with outstretched arms, adorned with bright patterns of blue, red, and yellow. The figure stands over a stairway, with green foliage and another whimsical sculpture in the background, all under a clear blue sky.
Sculpture in The Tarot Garden
Modern art sculpture in the Tarot Garden near Grossetto in Tuscany
Sculpture in the Tarot Garden

We spent a full hour wandering around the gardens on a hot afternoon in September. Although I took tons of photographs, they don’t do the sculptures justice. You have to visit the gardens and touch the sculptures, walk inside them, and sit on them to fully appreciate them.

When you go, check the website for the current opening hours. Usually, the gardens are open daily from April 1 to October 15 from 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm. In the winter, the gardens are open only on the first Saturday of the month from 9 am to 1 pm.

Summary

My list of must-see art masterpieces barely scratches the surface of all the wonderful art you can enjoy when you slow down and take time to get to know Tuscany in all its glory.

Plan to spend two weeks enjoying the many beautiful towns and villages: Montalcino, Montepulciano, Lucca, Pisa, Volterra…the list goes on. Take a walking holiday or book into an agritourism property and settle in for a week of great food and long, warm days.

For more information about traveling in Tuscany see Exploring Tuscany, Umbria and La Dolce Vita and Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Ciao!