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View of Athens and the Acropolis of Athens: A panoramic view showcasing the city of Athens with the Acropolis prominently perched on a hilltop, highlighting its significance as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Should You Make the Climb to the Acropolis of Athens?

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Last updated on December 17th, 2024 at 07:57 pm

Ah, the Acropolis of Athens! It is the pinnacle of Greek culture and a mecca for cultural travel. It’s both a graceful monument to the old gods and a tourist attraction famed for the number of visitors willing to risk heatstroke to see it in all its rubble-strewn glory.

Of all the many archaeological site scattered across Greece, the most famous by far are the imposing collection of temples perched atop the hill in the middle of the busy city of Athens.

The hill is called the Acropolis and the big temple in the middle is called the Parthenon, but people often use the two terms interchangeably.

A Pinterest graphic with the words "Acropolis in Athens" above a picture of the facade of the Parthenon showing the Doric columns.

Overview of the Acropolis of Athens

A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Acropolis inspires millions of visitors every year to make the long trek from the ticket office to the temples, puffing up stone steps that go on forever (or at least feel like they do). There is no shade; for several months of the year, the sun can be life threatening; and you make the trek with thousands of fellow visitors.

Unless you’re visiting in the depths of winter, forget romantic thoughts of strolling up the steps in solitary communion with the ancient Greeks.

I’m actually surprised so many people visit the Acropolis. And yet they do. Thousands upon thousands of them visit every day—young and not so young, fit and definitely not fit, and from all over the world. The Acropolis is the must-see hit of Athens.

You can’t go to Athens and not climb to the Acropolis. Not to do so is probably illegal.

Read on for more about my experience and my recommendations for comfortably visiting the Acropolis and the must-see Acropolis Museum.

When It’s Too Hot to Visit the Acropolis

Officials sometimes close the Acropolis on summer afternoons when temperatures soar to the high forties Celsius. I can’t even imagine how hot that must feel. With no shade on the way up, such high temperatures plus bare rocks equal a searing experience.

If you’re visiting on a particularly hot and crowded day in the summer, I recommend just admiring the Acropolis from afar. Why risk heat stroke?

Instead, visit the wonderful (and air conditioned) Acropolis Museum and/or the National Archaeological Museum (check out my suggestions for touring!), enjoy a leisurely lunch, do some shopping, do some people-watching of the modern Athenians, and maybe take a peek at some of the lesser-known and much less crowded archaeological sites. You’ll still see the Acropolis from just about anywhere you walk in central Athens. Let that be enough.

Here are some tours from Tiqets.com that don’t include the Acropolis!

Visiting the Acropolis of Athens in the Late Afternoon

When the heat is manageable, consider visiting the Acropolis in the late afternoon. The crowds start to thin out, the temperature starts to cool, and sunset is imminent.

Here’s what I did during a visit with my daughter in mid-September.

My Visit to the Acropolis in September

We arrive at the ticket area near the main entrance to the Acropolis site at 4:30 pm to find that tickets for the 4:45 time slot are sold out, with the next available time slot being 5:45 pm.

If you go in the late afternoon, you may be lucky, like we are, and only wait an hour to get in. If, however, you are visiting at other times of the day or during the summer, buy your tickets online several days before your visit.

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To Combo or Not to Combo?

Your big decision when buying your ticket to the Acropolis is whether you should buy a single or a combo ticket. The single ticket costs €20 and the combo ticket costs €30.

The single ticket only gets you into the Acropolis & Slopes within a 30-minute time frame from 15 minutes before to 15 minutes after your selected time slot.

The combo ticket gets you into the Acropolis & Slopes at your appointed time and into the Ancient Agora, Hadrian’s Library, Kerameikos, Aristotle’s School [Lyceum], Olympieion, and the Roman Agora anytime within five days of the ticket date. That’s a lotta ruins!

With only a day and a half in Athens, we decide to throw caution to the wind and buy the combo tickets. I figure that for the extra €10, we’re bound to visit at least one of the other sites. Most of them cost around €10, so we only have to visit one additional site to get our money’s worth.

We visit the Ancient Agora the day after our visit to the Acropolis, so for us, the combo ticket paid for itself, just. Here’s some advice on How to Spend a Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Athens that includes a visit to the Ancient Agora.

Here’s the fabulous Temple of Hephaestus in the Agora.

Side view of the stunning Greek Temple of Hephaestus in Athens, which is part of the Agora of Athens and accessible with a Combo ticket to the archaeological sites in Athens
Front view of the columns in the stunning Greek Temple of Hephaestus in Athens, which is part of the Agora of Athens and accessible with a Combo ticket to the archaeological sites in Athens
Full view of the very beautiful columns and pediment of the ancient Greek Temple of Hephaestus in Athens, which is part of the Agora of Athens and accessible with a Combo ticket to the archaeological sites in Athens

I recommend you buy the combo ticket if you think you’ll have time to explore other sites. The Ancient Agora is definitely worth a visit.

Check the official ticket site.

Waiting to Enter the Acropolis

After buying combo tickets, we go in search of a café to have a drink while we wait. My daughter, Julia, chooses a donut that looks like it will be a tasty, if indulgent, treat.

Unfortunately, it’s drier than a vat of pixie dust. We should complain and get our €3.50 back. But I don’t have the heart since the server was so cheery when she seated us. We leave the donut virtually untouched and return to the ticket office.

Picture of a very large and dry donut with caramel icing flaking off as an example of what not to order at the touristy cafes near the Acropolis in Athens.

NOTE: Avoid the string of cafés a few steps from the entrance to the Acropolis. There are many better places to eat in the nearby Plaka district.

Joining the Line to the Acropolis of Athens

We arrive back at the line at 5:30 and join the queue. There are quite a few people, but not so many that we feel overwhelmed. Precisely at 5:45, the turnstiles open and the line moves with surprising briskness.

Soon we’re through and ready to begin the long climb up to one of the world’s most iconic sites.

OMG! I’m at the Acropolis! Socrates walked here. Plato pontificated here. Thousands of believers made their way across these very slick stones to climb to the temples and worship the gods.

It’s one of those “pinch me” moments that make travel worthwhile.

Have you been to the Acropolis in Athens?

Oh yes. It was marvelous.

Fortunately, most people move quite slowly, what with stopping every two meters to snap pictures, so the climb feels less strenuous than it would be if the place were empty. Every few steps, we get to pause, admire the view, and catch our breath.

I listen to a Rick Steves audio commentary as I climb and learn all sorts of interesting things about what I’m seeing. I recommend Rick’s commentaries—they’re fun, informative, and not boring.

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus

On the way up to the Acropolis, we pass the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. It’s a superb open-air theater with seating for 5,000 spectators that is still used for performances. Built in 161 AD, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus has hosted stars such as Elton John, Pavarotti, Frank Sinatra, and Sting.

Panoramic view over the Odeon of Herodes Atticus on the Acropolis Slopes showing the sweep of seats and the backdrop of Roman-style ruins with the skyline of Athens beyond.
Caption: Odeon of Herodes Atticus on the Acropolis Slopes

Slowly, slowly we climb up and up Acropolis hill until we face the monumental entrance to the Acropolis—enormous pillars soaring into the cloud-studded Athenian sky. I am suitably awed and snap away happily along with a few hundred of my fellow climbers.

Massive columns at the entrance to the Acropolis in Athens visible as you climb up to the Acropolis. the backs of a large crowd of people climbing to the top is in the foreground.
Approaching the entrance to the Acropolis in Athens

What’s Up Top at the Acropolis of Athens?

When, finally, we make it to the top, all of Athens is laid at our feet which is pretty danged spectacular. We’re also standing in the shadow of the mighty Parthenon which, despite the scaffolding and the missing columns, is magnificent.

It’s the very definition of iconic.

People are everywhere, but it’s not difficult to crop them out of pictures, and everyone is in good spirits. After all, they’re in the midst of crossing a major experience off their bucket lists. Also, the temperature at around 28 C degrees with a nice breeze and the sun fast setting is just about perfect.

Front view of the Parthenon in Athens which is covered in scaffolding. The columns along the left side do not have scaffolding and are Doric columns and very beautiful.
The front façade of the Acropolis

Warning: No Disrespecting Allowed

Resist the temptation to engage in any shenanigans while snapping pictures of the monuments of the Acropolis. Guards patrol the perimeter on the lookout for anyone daring to make light of Greece’s national treasures. They frown on people mugging for the camera with excessively silly poses or acting in any way disrespectfully.

Temple of Erechtheion at the Acropolis of Athens

The beautiful temple of Erechtheion with its columns made from the figures of women is a highlight of the Acropolis. The original statues are in the Acropolis Museum, which I talk about later in this post. The statues you’ve climbed up to see are reproductions.

But the temple is still wonderful! Who cares that most of it was rebuilt in modern times?

The Temple of Erechtheion  on the Acropolis with a view of the Athens skyline beyond. This temple is a highlight of the Acropolis because the columns are actually statues of women in Greek robes.
The Temple of Erechtheion  on the Acropolis

The Parthenon

The main activity at the top of the Acropolis is walking around the Parthenon and snapping pictures of the Parthenon along with the other temples and the view of Athens from every angle.

You can eavesdrop on tour groups or listen to an audio guide to learn more about the site, or you can just look and enjoy.

The attraction of the place is its hold over our collective imaginations. The Acropolis of Athens symbolizes much of what is good in western culture as defined by the ancient Greeks. Their contributions to medicine, theater, literature, language, architecture, sculpture, and a whole lot of other useful pursuits have lasted millennia.

The world owes a lot to the Greeks, and the Acropolis of Athens stands proud witness to that debt.

We circle the Parthenon, admiring its perfect dimensions and lamenting its sorry state of disrepair. Over the millennia, it was bombed by the Venetians, had a mosque built inside of it by the Ottomans, and had bits of it removed by a certain British lord whose name begins with E.

Many Greeks are not happy that their “Elgin” marbles were removed from the Acropolis back in the day and are still in the British Museum. I hope they get them back so they can be installed in the gorgeous new Acropolis Museum that we visit next.

Side view of the Parthenon on the Acropolis taken from the top of the Acropolis in Athens. Some scaffolding is visible, but most of hte columns are free of scaffolding and very impressive.

Temple of Athena Nike

Athena, goddess of wisdom, crafting, and victory, is one of my favorite goddesses. Perched at the edge of a cliff, the temple dedicated to the goddess Athena is the smallest temple at the Acropolis. It was built in the Iconic order (my favorite of the three orders) in 420 BC. 

Sunset Over Athens

The sun is starting to sink over Athens and the guards start ushering people towards the exit. Although the Acropolis is supposed to stay open until 8 PM, that’s not exactly the case. I suppose they want everyone off before darkness falls which, considering the roughness of some of the steps, is a good idea.

Spectacular view over the large city of Athens facing west to a beautiful sunset. The view is taken from the top of the Acropolis and is well worth the climb to see in the early evening.

The journey back down the slopes of the Acropolis is much easier than the journey up. Before long, we’re back in front of the Acropolis Museum.

Because it’s a Friday, the museum is open until 10 PM. Visiting it after an early evening climb to the Acropolis makes a perfect ending to an Acropolis outing.

Accessing the Acropolis via Elevator

If you are not able to climb the many, many steps to the Acropolis, you may be able to use the elevator. Thank you to a commenter on this post for reminding me that an elevator is available.

Note that access is strictly controlled. You need to prove you are disabled, and should call ahead to check availability. The number is  +30 210 3214172 or +30 210 9238470

The ride up takes just 32 seconds!

Visiting the Acropolis Museum

This museum is an Athens must-see. It’s brand new and gorgeous and is equally awesome whether visited before or after climbing to the Acropolis. And if the weather and crowds prevent you from making the climb, the Acropolis Museum is a fine consolation prize.

The stylish and modern entrance to the Acropolis Museum in Athens, a must-see museum to learn more about the temples and the history of the Acropolis.
Entrance to the Acropolis Museum in Athens

The three floors of the museum are large and airy with beautifully curated displays of artifacts from the Acropolis of Athens. In addition, informative videos, and lots of information in English, bring Greek history to life.

Allow at least two hours to tour the museum.

A highlight for me are the original statues from the Temple of Erechtheion. The details in the robes and hair of the women are astonishing.

Close up view of two of the female statues wearing Greek robes with pediments on top of their heads. These are two of the original columns used to hold up the Erechtheion Temple on the Acropolis, and are very classically Greek and beautiful.
View of one of the female statues wearing Greek robes with pediments on top of it head. This is one of the original columns used to hold up the Erechtheion Temple on the Acropolis, and is very classically Greek and beautiful. The column is displayed in the Acropolis Museum--a must-see museum in Athens.
Close-up of the back of one of the female statues wearing Greek robes with a pediment on top of her head. The view shows the statue's intricately braided hair. This is one of the original columns used to hold up the Erechtheion Temple on the Acropolis, and is very classically Greek and beautiful. The column is displayed in the Acropolis Museum--a must-see museum in Athens.

On the top floor, you can see great views of the Acropolis. Since we are visiting in the evening, the floodlit ruins appear to float in the night sky.

Floodlit view of the Acropolis as seen through a large window on the top flow of the Acropolis Museum.

Also on the top floor is the glass-encased “Parthenon Gallery” on which the relief sculptures of the Parthenon frieze are exhibited in continuous sequence around all four sides, mimicking the real Parthenon.

While most of the sculptures were long ago plundered by Lord Elgin, enough remain to give an idea of the splendor of the original building.

Portion of the frieze that once adorned the Parthenon at the Acropolis exhibited in the Acropolis Museum in Athens. This portion shows a marble statue of a man reclining next to another seated man without a head.
Portion of the frieze that once adorned the Parthenon at the Acropolis exhibited in the Acropolis Museum in Athens. This portion shows a carving of four men on horseback and is remarkably full of movement.
Reconstruction of a portion of the frieze that once adorned the Parthenon at the Acropolis exhibited in the Acropolis Museum in Athens. This portion shows marble statues of two Greek Gods and other figures and is very white and beautiful.

Plenty of information is provided to help visitors visualize the original friezes as well as understand the significance of the sculpted figures. It’s a pretty cool experience to walk around the four sides of the massive structure on the top floor, occasionally glancing out the window to see the real Parthenon rising into an indigo sky from the moonlit Acropolis.

On the ground floor, wide expanses of glass that you can walk over allow you to view the active archaeological dig below ground.

View of archaeological ruins below street level at the Acropolis Museum in Athens visible as you walk in the entrance. This museum is one of Athens's must-see archaeological museums.

When to Visit the Acropolis Museum in Athens

I highly recommend visiting the Acropolis Museum in the evening, if possible. We pretty much had the place to ourselves for the entire visit. Earlier in the day, the museum can get very crowded because people often go to the Acropolis first and then visit the museum.

Here are some options for purchasing tickets to the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum.

Where to Stay in Athens

On my recent trip to Athens, I stayed in two places–a holiday apartment for two nights and a hotel for one night. I can highly recommend both places.

Karma Athens: Located on a quiet street just around the corner from the lively Plaka district, Karma Apartments was the perfect place to stay in Athens. Our one-bedroom apartment included a private terrace that featured a peek-a-boo view of the Acropolis.

The building contains only holiday lets so it’s more like a hotel, but without a reception. However, there was an attendant there when we arrived early who kindly stored our luggage until the apartment was ready and then carried it up to our apartment on the top floor. The stairs were steep but the climb was worth it.

Hotel Lozenge: This business hotel located in the high-end Kolonaki area of Athens, and within easy walking distance of most of what you’d want to see in Athens, is clean and modern with a friendly staff and an attached bar-restaurant.

We stayed one night before flying home the next morning, and it was an excellent end-of-trip choice.

Conclusion

The Acropolis of Athens is a definite must-see if you can avoid risking heatstroke or standing in long lines for hours on end. Go late in the afternoon, if possible, scheduling your visit to the Acropolis Museum for when the museum is open late, and take your time.

It’s likely you’ll only make the climb up to the Acropolis once or twice in your life. Make sure the experience is one you look back on with fondness, remembering the thrill of treading in the footsteps of the ancients rather than the tedium of inching painfully across sun-baked stones.

Have you visited the Acropolis in Athens? Share your experience and recommendations in the Comments below.

Other posts about Greece:

How To Spend Two Wonderful Days in Charming Nafplio in Greece

Destinations, Greece, Other Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on How To Spend Two Wonderful Days in Charming Nafplio in Greece

Last updated on December 21st, 2024 at 06:00 am

Thinking of visiting Nafplio?

I highly recommend including at least two or three nights in Nafplio in your Greek itinerary.

It’s well worth a visit, with its narrow streets in the old town, great views of the sea, and relatively few crowds.

During a 16-day trip around Greece, I stayed three nights in Nafplio and could easily have stayed longer.

A scenic nighttime view of a lit fortress island surrounded by calm blue waters, with the text "Two Wonderful Days in Charming Nafplio" and "artsytraveler.com" overlaying the image.

Compared to Santorini, Nafplio feels deserted. One reason is that the large cruise ships don’t come here. As a result, most visitors either pop in for a quick visit on a tour from Athens, or stay a night or two. Many use the town as a home base to explore nearby ancient sites.

In this post, I share my suggestions for things to do in Nafplio and how to allocate your time.

I suggest spending three nights and two days, with one day devoted to a tour of Mycenae, Corinth, and Epidaurus.

Overview of Nafplio

Nafplio, also known as Nafplion and Nafplia, was the first capital of Greece from 1828 to 1834 following the Greek War of Independence.

The history of Nafplio is fascinating. Back in the 15th century, Venice conquered the region and left behind three formidable fortresses—one high atop an imposing cliff that looms over the town, one on a peninsula not visible from the town, and one out in the harbor.

Floodlit at night, the two fortresses visible from the seafront add a romantic touch to this elegant little town.

Getting to Nafplio

After a three-hour ferry ride from Naxos to Piraeus (check out my post about our three nights on beautiful Naxos), we take a private transfer to the charming city of Nafplio, a two-hour drive on a mostly empty highway.

The cost of the private transfer is about $250 and while not inexpensive, it was a much more convenient way to get to Nafplio from Piraeus. The alternative would taking a taxi into Athens and then catching a bus to Nafplio or renting a car.

When you are on a fairly tight itinerary, spending extra to save time makes good sense.

You could visit Nafplio on a day trip from Athens, but don’t! As mentioned above, Nafplio is worth at least two nights and preferably three or four.

Arrival in Nafplio

The driver drops us off in the little square in the middle of Nafplio old town a few meters above our place and points down a narrow alleyway.

Your apartment is down there.

Okay…

We trundle down the narrow street to another narrow street flanked with souvenir stores and look around hopefully. Julia spies the name of the apartment high up on a wall: 99 Dream Vacations. Now all we need to do is get in.

Staying in Nafplio

I text our host and, to my relief, she rounds the corner into our street minutes later and lets us into a beautiful apartment complete with high wood-beamed ceilings, a comfortable living room and two bedrooms.

The kitchen is stocked with provisions for breakfast—tubs of creamy Greek yogurt, along with eggs, fruit, bread, and enough coffee pods to keep me well caffeinated for the entire stay.

I highly recommend 99 Dream Vacations if you’re looking for a centrally located and reasonably-priced apartment. Here are photos of the living room and adjacent dining room.

A cozy living room with wooden beams on the ceiling, a fireplace with a mirror above it, comfortable seating, and a flat-screen TV. Natural light streams through lace curtains.

Getting to Know Nafplio

On our first evening, we stroll around the cute streets of the old town of Nafplio, all brightly lit until late in the evening, and share a very tasty pizza at a café overlooking the Bourtzi fortress in the harbor. The fortress is one of three built by the Venetians. 

As usual, the service is efficient and friendly. During our entire 16-day trip in Greece, we never once experienced poor service.

After dinner, we treat ourselves to an Italian gelato at a gelateria reputed to serve the best gelato in Greece. The server greets us in Italian, and the gelato is indeed excellent. Several hundred years of Venetian occupation have left their mark on Nafplio.

Day 1 in Nafplio – Exploring the Town

Our first full day is a semi-down day with very little planned beyond taking a cooking class at 5 pm. Nafplio is a charming and walkable town, but it’s fairly low on sights.

I recommend checking out the Archeological Museum and the Venetian Fortress of Palamidi (also known as Palamidi Castle) perched high above the town, and then spending the rest of the day relaxing, shopping, eating, and strolling (not necessarily in that order).

Archeological Museum of Nafplio

After breakfast at an outdoor cafe in Nafplio’s old town, we head to the Archeological Museum to learn all about the early inhabitants of the area—some dating back 30,000 years. This is a very old part of the world!

The Archeological Museum in Nafplio is well organized and compact and definitely worth a visit if you are interested in ancient history (and hey, you’re in Greece!).

The permanent collection includes artifacts dating from the Paleolithic period to Roman times. The most important exhibits are associated with the Mycenaean centers of the region.

All the exhibits include informative English captions. I particularly like the collections of pots, including a well-preserved Octopus pot.

A display of ancient glass and ceramic vessels in various shapes, sizes, and colors, including delicate amphorae with ornate patterns, inside a museum exhibit.

A highlight of the museum is a suit of bronze armor that was found in a chamber tomb dating fthe 15th century BC. Check out the boar tooth helmet. Imagine how many boars gave their lives to make that helmet.

I also snap a picture of three reconstructed theatrical masks. As a former theater major (back in the day, I got my Master’s in theatre from the University of Toronto), I have a soft spot for Greek theater and am looking forward to our visit to the ancient Greek theater at Epidaurus.

Three ancient stone masks displayed against a deep red background, each with exaggerated facial features and hollow eyes.

Tourist Train in Nafplio

With the clouds threatening rain, we set off after our visit to the museum to find the hop- on-hop-off tour bus that will, according to the guidebook, take us up to the fort.

We could climb the 999 steps from the town to the top, but we won’t.

Another view of the rocky fortress on a hill, with palm trees, a red-tiled roof building, and a tourist train parked in front of it, under a gray sky.
Fortress of Palamidi seen from Nafplion

At the bus stop, we discover a little tourist train next to a sign advertising a 20-minute meander around the town. With 30 minutes to spare before the hop-on-hop-off bus arrives, we decide to give the tourist train a whirl.

Feeling like toddlers on a day trip, we clamber into the train which sets off at a painfully sedate pace. My great-grandma could walk faster.

The English commentary is not particularly compelling and the only charming streets we putter down are ones we’ve already walked along.

A small white and red tourist train with open carriages parked along a street lined with palm trees, with a large rocky fortress perched on a hill in the background.
Tourist train in Nafplion

At one point, we squeeze past the café where we had breakfast. We want to sink through the floor as the server catches our eye and kind of smirks as if to say, Really? You fell for the tourist train tour? Don’t you know it sucks?

She is right. For the next twenty minutes, we chug along, often stuck for several minutes in traffic with nothing to see either side but graffiti-scrawled walls and kids playing volleyball at the local high school.

The train circles through the modern part of the town which doesn’t have much to recommend it, with some vistas appallingly ugly.

A graffiti-covered wall in an urban setting, with colorful, bold tags like "PUNK" and "DIRTY" in the foreground, and residential buildings in the background under a cloudy sky.
Not all of Nafplio is charming

Finally, excruciatingly, we arrive back at the parking area only to discover that the bus has already left. So much for that plan! But no matter; the skies have been steadily darkening and we feel a few raindrops.

Rather than go up to the fort where the main attraction is views of the sea, we decide to head back to our lovely two-bedroom apartment for some R & R.

I write for a while, nap for a while, and around three o’clock, the skies clear and we venture out again.

Fortress of Palamidi

We have two hours before we need to be at our cooking class, so we catch a taxi up to the fort. The driver says he’ll return for us in one hour and that we can pay him then.

I’d read that the taxi ride from the town to the fortress should cost about 10 euros so I figure that I may as well give him my 20 euros for a round trip rather than take my chances that a taxi will be available when we emerge from the fort.

We wave a cheery good-bye to the driver and set off to explore the Venetian fort. There’s not much left of the fort itself, but the views are jaw-droppingly stunning.

We clamber and climb over the remains of the ancient fortifications, snapping picture after picture of views Nafplio that go on forever. It’s a wonderful place to visit—a Nafplio must-see for sure.

A stone archway with a hanging bell, framing a panoramic view of the sea, distant mountains, and a coastal city below. The sky is blue with scattered clouds.

After much climbing and snapping photos of views of Nafplio, we enjoy a drink at the tiny concession inside the Palamidi Fortress.

We exit the fort precisely one hour after we arrived and find our driver waiting.

After a few wrong turns, he drops us off at Savor Nafplio Cooking School a few minutes before 5 pm. He also charges us 40 euros for a round trip that should have cost 20 euros. But what to do? I hand over the cash and chalk it up to one of the few times we are ripped off in Greece.

The cooking class is a must-do! See my post all about it.

Day 2 in Nafplio – Tour of Ancient Sites

We’re up early on our second full day in Nafplio to take a guided tour of the major archeological sites in the area: Mycenae, Corinth and Epidaurus.

I’ve read about these places for decades and seen pictures, so I’m beyond excited to finally see them in real life, especially the ancient theater of Epidaurus.

If you have a car, you can take day trips from Nafplio to visit the ancient sites. We did all three in one day, which felt very doable.

A few minutes before 9 am, we walk into the small square near our apartment and meet our driver, George. To our delight, we’re in a small van rather than a bus and traveling with just two other people—a honeymooning couple from New York.

George inches the van down a very narrow street lined with stone houses on one side and restaurant tables and chairs on the other. He makes it to the end of the road unscathed and then negotiates several tiny maneuvers to coax the van around a very tight corner hemmed in on two sides by parked cars that he passes with centimeters to spare.

It’s an impressive display of driving skill, and I feel we are in good hands.

George sets off towards the ancient city of Mycenae. He is very enthusiastic about the Mycenaeans, a still-mysterious culture that thrived around 3000 to 1700 BC, after the Minoans, but well before the Athenians (500 to 300 BC).

Mycenae

Around 1600 to 1200 BC, the city of Mycenae ruled its mighty empire from atop a hill now littered with evocative ruins and some truly marvelous tombs. Historians don’t know all that much about the Mycenaeans—who they were, where they came from, and what happened to them.

We do know that around 1200 BC, the Mycenaeans defeated Troy and became the rulers of the Aegean before mysteriously disappearing from the ancient map.

Tomb of Agamemnon

Our first stop is known colloquially as the Tomb of Agamemnon. It is very likely not Agamemnon’s tomb, but calling it the Tomb of Agamemnon is better than calling it the Tomb of Some Bronze Age Dude We Don’t Know. 

Its other name is the Treasury of Atreus, which isn’t nearly as romantic nor as descriptive since the site is, definitely, a tomb. Or was.

We are the only people at the site until the honeymooners catch up with us, and I am thoroughly verklempt. Here’s the entrance to what is called a beehive tomb.

A stone entrance leading to an ancient tomb or structure, with massive stone walls forming a pathway under a clear blue sky, surrounded by trees and dry grass.

The interior of the tomb is massive, its high stone ceiling a testament to Bronze Age architectural know-how. The walls of horizontal stone blocks rise up and up to a height of more than 13 meters, decreasing in diameter the higher they go until the dome is closed.

I breathe in the smell of ancient stone and let my imagination soar to the height of the tomb. This place is almost 4000 years old. It was already ancient history when Plato walked the earth.

A woman standing inside a large ancient stone structure with a domed ceiling made of intricately layered stones. The space is dimly lit, highlighting the geometric patterns of the stones.
The interior of a beehive-shaped ancient tomb with a stone ceiling formed by concentric rings. Light filters through the doorway, casting a glow on the stone floor.

Try to arrive as early as possible, preferably just after the site opens to avoid the crowds. I am so grateful I was able to see the tomb on my own rather than with five dozen people all crammed together and simultaneously snapping photos. Talk about an imagination killer.

The honeymooning couple take our picture all alone in front of the tomb. Very soon, taking this same shot with no one else in it would be impossible.

In the five minutes it takes for George to drive from this site to the main site of the Mycenae Acropolis, five tour buses have pulled in. The early visitor definitely gets the best shots.

Palace of Mycenae

The sparse ruins of the palace high on a hill overlooking a spectacular view are pretty much all that’s left of a great and powerful empire. But one element is a show-stopper—and that’s the famous Lion’s Gate that dates from around 1300 BC.

I remember seeing pictures of it back when I first studied art history. It was touted as an incredible engineering achievement, considering its age. In fact, the relief of the lions is the oldest monumental relief in Europe.

The stone lintel upon which the carving of two headless lions sits weighs over 18 tons.

A close-up of the famous Lion Gate, an ancient stone structure featuring two lion figures carved above a column, surrounded by massive stone blocks.
The Lion’s Gate at Mycenae

Awestruck, I pass through the gate and then start the climb to the top of the site. Those ancient Mycenaeans must have been in great shape. The climb is steep but worth the effort.

At the top, I take this panoramic video that shows the beauty of the surrounding countryside.

I’m captivated by an area of the ruined palace called the Artisan Quarter. This was once an extensive building complex that consisted of two stories (although only the foundations survive). Based on finds such as ivory objects, gold leaf, and remnants of semi-precious stones, archaeologists believe the buildings must have contained artists’ workshops.

Hmm, a novel about a Mycenaean jewelry maker? Maybe he’s kidnapped by the Sea People (Sardinian pirates, some think) who allegedly are responsible for conquering and destroying Mycenae? Maybe he’d taken on board a ship and rowed to Sardinia?

Contemplating the glimmerings of a plot keep me entertained when we’re back on the road driving to our next stop.

Stone ruins of an ancient settlement in Mycenae, Greece, with a view of the distant mountains and green valleys under a clear sky.

Archeological Museum at Mycenae

As with every ancient site I visited in Greece, Mycenae includes a small archaeological museum. I am particularly taken by the extensive collection of carved figurines and an intriguing ceramic snake.

Three ancient clay figurines from the Mycenean culture displayed in a museum. The figurines vary in color and shape, with detailed facial features and patterns on the surface.
A terracotta artifact from the Mycenae era is shaped like a coiled snake with a raised head, displayed on a museum shelf with the number "20" beside it.

Ancient Corinth

Our next step is the ancient city of Corinth. In around 400 BC during Greece’s Golden Age, the city was one of the country’s largest and most important cities, with a population of 90,000. And then the Romans swept in during 146 BC, demolished the city as they were often wont to do, and built a new city in its place in 44 BC.

As a result, most of the ruins and the artifacts in the museum are Roman, not Greek.

Nevertheless, the site is pretty darned evocative. With the sky studded with interesting clouds, I snap some good photos of the remains of a Doric temple.

Ruins of an ancient Greek temple with several tall, weathered columns standing against a bright blue sky. Scattered stones and fragments of the structure are on the ground.

Corinth is famous with Christians because of the two letters that Paul wrote in the New Testament. Several tours led by Christian clerics were prowling the site while we were there, some even gathered in circles and singing and/or praying.

The ruins are quite extensive and worth visiting. The museum also merits a look. It contains a courtyard full of Roman statues along with other artifacts, including this well-preserved mosaic.

An ancient Roman mosaic featuring a figure playing a flute while standing beneath a tree, surrounded by cattle. The mosaic is framed with an intricate geometric border pattern.

After wandering around the ruins for a while and visiting the museum, we enjoyed a tasty and reasonably-priced traditional Greek lunch at a small nearby piazza ringed with restaurants and souvenir shops.

Corinth Canal

Nowadays, most cruise ships and freighters can’t squeeze through the Corinth Canal, but it’s still a marvel of engineering. From a vantage point on a bridge high above the canal, it’s hard to believe the canal is 24.6 meters wide and 6.4 kilometers long.  From the bridge, the canal looks a lot narrower and shorter.

As far back as the 7th century BC, engineers dreamed of building a canal to connect the Gulf of Corinth in the Ionian Sea with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea. Even Nero had a go. He actually broke the ground with a pickaxe and removed the first basket load of soil in 67 AD.

But then he died and the project was abandoned. It wasn’t until 1893 that the canal was finally built.

A boat travels through a deep, narrow canal -- the Corinth Canal. There are steep cliffs on either side. The water is a vibrant blue, and there is a bridge above the canal with greenery and a clear sky beyond.

The Theater at Epidaurus

For me, the ancient theater at Epidaurus (a UNESCO World Heritage site and rightly so) is the highlight of the day. I’ve read about it and seen pictures, but nothing prepared me for its sheer size and grandeur.

Regarded as the best-preserved ancient theater in Greece, the theater was constructed in the late 4th century BC and is still used for performances.

Our guide, George, tells us that he saw a performance of Oedipus Rex in the theater when he was five and cried loudly when Oedipus died, thinking it was all real. He still comes to performances and brings his own children, assuring them it’s all make-believe.

Arrival at the Theater

The pathway from the entrance to the theater ends at the stage with the rows and rows of seats fanning upwards in a half-shell.

From the stage, the theater doesn’t look that big and I’m just a tad disappointed.

A smiling woman wearing sunglasses and a sleeveless top stands in front of the stone seating of an ancient amphitheater. Several tourists are climbing the stone steps in the background.

Climbing up the Theater

But then I start to climb—up, up, up with my heart pumping and my sore knees screaming. I count each step, pausing occasionally to catch my breath and note how much farther I have to go (far!).

Finally, I make it to the top and look down. A wave of vertigo makes me clutch the nearest railing. Yikes, I’m high.

The magnificent theater spreads out before me, perfectly engineered and harmoniously constructed. It’s like a poem in stone.

Waaaaay down on the stage, I hear people testing the famous acoustics that allegedly allow all 15,000 spectators to hear a pin drop.

I recommend you make the trek up the stairs to the top of theater if at all possible. You really can’t appreciate the breadth of this marvel until you see the whole theater spread before you with the hills and sky beyond.

A large, ancient stone amphitheater surrounded by green trees and hills, with tourists scattered throughout the rows of stone seats. The expansive stage area is visible in the center, with a few ruins nearby.

Around the Theater

The theater is situated near the ancient sanctuary of Asklepios, which was a celebrated healing center in ancient times and dedicated to Asklepios, the god of healing.

After visiting the theater, we wander through the extensive archaeological site dotted with columns and various and sundry ruins.

It’s an extremely pleasant place in which to imagine ancient people streaming along the walkways to see a performance by that new guy, Euripedes.

Back to Nafplio

It’s been a good, long day of sightseeing. Just as we pull away from the site, the heavens open. George slogs valiantly through a violent rainstorm, but fortunately, before we have time to worry about flooding, the sun bursts out and all is well with the world for the rest of the trip back.

We spend our last evening cruising around the picturesque streets, enjoying yet another tasty Greek meal (they’re all tasty), soaking up the atmosphere in lovely Syntagma Square, and picking up a few souvenirs.

Here’s the main plaza at night.

A lively square in Nafplio, Greece, illuminated at night with street lamps casting a glow on cobblestone pavement. Outdoor seating with large umbrellas and people strolling around are visible, with classic neoclassical buildings and a large tree in the background under a deep blue sky.

Tours Around Nafplio

GetYourGuide offers tours of the ancient sites on the Peloponnese Peninsular that are easily accessible from Nafplio. Many more tours depart from Athens, but then you’re faced with a much longer drive each way and may not find as many small group tours.

Here are some tours from GetYourGuide

Powered by GetYourGuide

If possible, see the ancient wonders of Mycenae, Corinth and Epidaurus from your home base of Nafplio. You’ll have more time to tour the archaeological sites as well as spend some quality time in Nafplio.

Win-win.

Conclusion

Have you visited Nafplio? Share your suggestions for artsy travelers in the Comments below.

Here are links to more posts about Greece:

Carol Cram in Naxos

How to Spend Two Laid-Back, Glorious Days on the Greek Island of Naxos

Destinations, Europe, Greece Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on How to Spend Two Laid-Back, Glorious Days on the Greek Island of Naxos

Last updated on December 21st, 2024 at 05:32 am

Are you planning a trip to Naxos and you’re not sure what to do?

Spending two or three days on the beautiful Greek island of Naxos gives you a taste of this lovely island and definitely leaves you wanting more! 

I visited Naxos after spending four days on uber-touristy Santorini, and it was a relaxing revelation. Naxos feels like a Greek island where Greek people actually live. !

Promo image showing a mountain landscape and a charming whitewashed street with shops, titled 'Greek Island of Naxos' from ArtsyTraveler.com.

Plenty of visitors bask on the beaches and eat in the many harborside restaurants, but the place doesn’t feel inundated. Part of the appeal of Naxos is that cruise ships do not come here. Let’s hope that doesn’t change!

During the evening, stroll along the waterfront and through the labyrinthine lanes of the old town (called, fittingly, the labyrinth), mingle with the locals, and watch the children play in the largely car-free streets. Everyone seems to be in a good mood.

And why not? The air on a September evening is warm but not stifling, the sunset over the Aegean is magnificent, the food well prepared (and cheaper than Santorini), and the general atmosphere easy going.

In this 3-night and 2 full-day Naxos itinerary, I cover what you need to know about planning a short trip to Naxos: including where to stay, how to get around, and what to do.

I suggest you spent one day relaxing on one of the many gorgeous beaches in Naxos and one day touring the island, either on an organized tour or on your own in a rental car.

Map of Naxos: Locations Visited

Naxos is the largest island in the Cyclades and a popular destination. The map of Naxos below shows the locations I visited.

I stayed at Giorgios Beach (#1), a short walk from the main town of Chora (#2) and the ferry dock. Click a number to read more about each location.

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

How to Get to Naxos

Since Naxos is an island, you have only two choices for how you get there (unless you have your own boat or are a very strong swimmer).

While most people take the ferry from Athens or another island, you can also fly to Naxos.

If you’re island hopping, you’ll probably take the ferry. On my trip to the Greek islands, I flew from London to Santorini and then took the ferry from there to Naxos and then from Naxos to Athens.

Following is my experience of the ferry trip to Naxos.

My Experience: Leaving Santorini

We bid farewell to Aethrio Sunset Village and take a taxi to the ferry port. Unlike the old port that services the cruise ships, the ferry port is accessible by car and bus down a very steep series of switchbacks.

When our ferry arrives, we join the throngs of suitcase-toting visitors for the mad dash up the gangplank and into the cavernous hold.

Crowd of people boarding a large blue and white ferry at a port in Greece, with cliffs in the background.

The loading and unloading of a Greek ferry is the very definition of organized chaos.

The ferry workers blow whistles and gesture for us to form two orderly lines (fat chance). It doesn’t seem possible that all the people waiting with us on the dock will fit on the boat. But within a surprisingly short time, we’re all aboard.

Before we’ve even found the place to stash our luggage, the gangplank comes up and the voyage is underway.

It’s a windy day and the ferry is rocking, but we manage to locate the luggage area marked “Naxos” and leave our luggage before mounting the stairs to the passenger lounge.

We used Ferry Hopper to book our two ferry trips in the Greek Islands—Santorini to Naxos and Naxos to Athens. The online ticketing went smoothly, and the app was easy to use. When we boarded the ferry, we showed the tickets on the app to the attendant who scanned them and waved us through.

Traveling to Naxos

To get to Naxos from Santorini takes about 90 minutes. My daughter Julia knocks herself out with a piece of Gravol gum and I settle in to write while occasionally glancing out at the white-capped sea.

The ferry docks briefly at the island of Ios and then Naxos is next. As soon as we hear the island announced, we leap out of our seats and clatter down the stairs to the hold.

At Ios, I saw how little time is allowed for loading and unloading and I’m terrified of being left behind!

Arrival on Naxos – Stay at Kalergis Studios

We are among the first visitors off the ferry, where we find the taxi rank and are soon on our way to Kalergis Studios on Plaka Giorgios.

For our three night stay in Naxos, the small studio is perfect. It contains two beds, a tiny kitchen, a bathroom, and a balcony overlooking one of the most famous beaches in Naxos.

The reasonably-priced place (three nights cost the same as one night in Oia!) is located right on the beach and just a ten-minute stroll to Chora.

A beach lined with white umbrellas and lounge chairs, overlooking the blue Aegean Sea, framed by palm trees.
View from our suite in Kalergis Studios

Our first order of business is to enjoy a late lunch at Yannis, the beachside café adjacent to Kalergis Studios that also manages a fleet of sunbeds. The portions are enormous!

Here is the most massive hamburger Julia has ever eaten and my traditional Greek Dakos salad., a delectable combination of super fresh tomatoes, olives, onions, feta cheese and crunchy dried bread. It’s also so large that I enjoy the rest of it for lunch the next day.

A plate with a bacon cheeseburger, crispy fries, and a Coca-Cola can beside a person wearing a colorful floral dress.
A Greek salad of diced tomatoes, crumbled feta, capers, and olive tapenade on a decorative blue and white plate

Although groaningly full after our lunches, we have to jump into the Aegean Sea. Apart from our bobbing swim in the hot springs cove on the boat trip on Santorini, we’ve not yet swum from a proper Greek beach.

Agios Georgios Beach (#1 on the map above) is sandy, and the water is just the right temperature to be refreshing. It’s also very shallow, requiring a long wade out before the water’s deep enough to dive into.

We bob happily for a while before returning to our room and getting ready to check out the Naxos sunset.

Sunset on Naxos

Sunsets really are a thing in Greece! On Naxos, the most popular place from which to watch the sunset is the Portera (#2) near the old town.

Also known as the Temple of Apollo, the Portera is a huge marble gate and all that remains of the temple of Apollo that was built, but never finished, in 530 BC.

We stroll toward the Portera, but my knee is aching, so I opt to sit on a bench overlooking the boats bobbing in the harbor while Julia runs on ahead to catch the sunset from the Portera.

Here are two of her amazing shots.

The Portara, an ancient stone structure, standing on a hill with Naxos Town and white buildings in the background.
Ancient stone doorway known as the Portara silhouetted against a colorful sunset sky in Naxos

The Naxos sunset just keeps on giving. Long after the sun sets, the sky continues to change in one of the most dramatic displays I’ve seen in a while.

Sunset over the Aegean Sea with soft golden clouds and a lone sailboat on the water near Naxos.
Evening sky with pastel hues of pink, orange, and purple over silhouetted trees and vintage-style street lamps in Naxos.
A vibrant sunset with swirling orange and pink clouds over lamppost silhouettes in Naxos, Greece.

After finally tearing our eyes from the sky, we settle on dinner at one of the many places lining the harbor in Chora, the main town on the island.

The Greek food is hearty and tasty, and the ambiance can’t be beat.

Day 1 on Naxos – Relax!

On our first of two full days in Naxos, we decide to enjoy a beach day—our only one of the entire 16-day visit to Greece.

If you have the time and you love beaches, stay longer in Naxos and explore some of its many gorgeous beaches. See the map at the end of this post with suggested options.

After breakfast, we walk only about ten feet from the café below our window to our sun loungers for the day. At a cost of 25 euros, the loungers are a bargain compared to what I’ve paid in France.

And with a breakfast like this to start the day, how can we go wrong?

A breakfast bowl filled with vibrant purple smoothie, topped with granola, chia seeds, sliced strawberries, and banana.

We seriously do nothing for the entire day. The air is breezy and warm, the sun hot but not unbearable, the view of the sparkling blue Aegean sea restful, and the occasional swim restorative.

It’s the perfect way to relax!

And then before we know it, the sun is starting to set again and it’s time to think about an evening walk and dinner.

Schedule at least one down day during your trip. Even the most avid sightseer needs time to recharge and restore. And what better place to do it than on a balmy beach in Naxos!

Exploring Chora

Thoroughly sun-warmed and relaxed, we follow the sunset back to Chora and stroll up to the top of the town to see the view.

The town’s narrow lanes, colorful door frames and prowling cats charm at every turn. We are virtually alone as we wander around, occasionally checking out a souvenir store or snapping a picture of one of the cats.

Cycladic Village Architecture

We learn later when we go to Athens that the tight architecture of the villages in the Cyclades Islands owes a lot to pirates. Over the millennia, pirates (the so-called Sea People) have been a constant thorn in the side of peaceful occupants of islands such as Naxos.

To protect themselves, people built their villages with houses very close together and clustered around narrow, serpentine lanes that wind around and through the villages with seemingly no logic. If a pirate manages to get to such a village, they can be more easily repelled.

At least that’s what our tour guide in Athens tells us a few days later and who am I to contradict?

The result of all this pirate repelling are villages that to our modern eyes are irresistibly charming and achingly picturesque. Every turn brings into focus another angle for another photo.

Cobbled lanes and slippery steps lead up, up, up to the Venetian castle of Naxos between houses so close they can be touched with outstretched hands.

A charming cobblestone path with colorful clothing displays under large white umbrellas, leading to whitewashed buildings.
A narrow alleyway lined with whitewashed walls, displaying clothing racks with garments in a small Greek marketplace.
A traveler walking up stone steps through a whitewashed archway with vibrant pink bougainvillea in a Greek village.

Cats in Chora

And everywhere there are cats—lounging across the tops of thick walls, tails swishing lazily in the heat, stalking around corners, skittering across the cobblestones. At one corner in Naxos’s old town of Chora, we count eleven cats in various attitudes of total relaxation.

Cats are a thing in Greece, we are discovering. They are everywhere! Most look sleek and well fed, although I think they are feral.

Their presence is a constant source of pleasure for photo-snapping tourists, us included.

A smiling woman seated at a table in a lively outdoor restaurant in Greece, with other diners in the background.

Dinner in Chora

After our wandering and picture-snapping, we go in search of a well-reviewed restaurant in the labyrinth.

Google’s restaurant reviews have not failed us yet. With its 4.8 rating, Restaurant Doukato looks like a good bet—and it is.

After being seated under a huge tree in an airy courtyard, we order chicken souvlaki for two. While we wait, we watch in awe as the black-clad waiters literally run from table to table.

Julia Simpson at dinner in Naxos
Julia at Restaurant Doukato

I’ve never seen servers work so hard! One young man actually sprints, while holding aloft plates of food. When our souvlaki comes, he plunks it down and rushes off, only to return seconds later to offer to help us de-skewer the chicken.

Chicken souvlaki for two served on a vertical stand with potato chips, salad, and dipping sauces at a Greek restaurant.
A lot of chicken souvlaki at Restaurant Doukato

The meal is plentiful and tasty. We take home what we can’t eat (the portions are HUGE in Greece) and enjoy it for dinner the next night after our tour of Naxos.

Day 2 on Naxos – Tour the Island

On our second of two full days on Naxos, we’ve booked an all-day tour that will take us inland to exlore some of the villages of Naxos.

If you don’t have a rental car, then I highly recommend taking a tour, preferably a small group one or even a private tour. But if your budget is limited or you can’t find a suitable tour, taking a big bus tour at least gives you a taste of this spectacular island.

We end up on a big bus tour, which is not our preference, but we couldn’t find a small group tour on the day we are in Naxos.

The plus is that the price is startlingly reasonable—just 30 Euros each for an eight-hour guided tour that takes us all over this big island. Here are a few tours to consider.

Starting on the Tour

As two of the last people to be picked up, we settle into our seats in the second to last row and prepare to enjoy ourselves. Unfortunately, my ability to hear the guide’s commentary (and I do love a good commentary) is marred by the incessant chattering of the two women behind me.

I don’t want to be that person by asking them to be quiet, but all my attempts at subtle body language cues such as glancing back, cupping my hand around my ear, leaning forward and so on fail to produce the desired quietude.

And since they are speaking French, I can’t even eavesdrop.

Other than putting up with their rudeness (and to add insult to injury, they are fellow Canadians!), the tour is an admittedly efficient way to see the highlights of Naxos with minimal effort.

What to See on Naxos

On our 8-hour bus tour, we explore several villages on the island along with other must-see sites. If you have your own wheels, you can see these sites over more than one day and take your time.

But I found that a bus tour, while “touristy” was worthwhile, and gave me a good overview of the island’s fascinating history dating back millenia. Here are the places we visited, with details about each following:

  • Demeter’s Temple
  • Damalas
  • Chalki
  • Apiranthos
  • Apollonas
  • Colossus of Dionysius

Demeter’s Temple

We leave the town of Chora and head up into the hills. Right away, we see that Naxos is very different from Santorini.

As the largest of the Cyclades Islands, Naxos’s ecosystem is very different from desert-like Santorini. Although dry, the landscape is much more verdant with plenty of greenery and high mountains framing views of the ever-blue Aegean.

There is a great deal of agriculture here, including olive oil production, which explains the delectable freshness of the food. We’re told that Naxos grows most of the food consumed on the island.

It’s no wonder the tomatoes taste like they’ve just been twisted from the vine because they probably have.

Our first stop is the temple of Demeter (#3) which we’re told dates from 530 BC. Over the centuries, the temple suffered attacks and repurposing, including the building of a small Christian basilica in its center.

As is the case throughout Greece, the marble and other materials from ancient temples were frequently used to build Christian churches. I learn that the impressive looking ruins were rebuilt in 1977.

A woman standing in front of the ancient Temple of Demeter in Naxos, with white marble columns and ruins under a blue sky.
Temple of Demeter in Naxos

The Temple of Demeter doesn’t take long to explore and includes a small museum that we pop into.

If you go, try timing your visit for first thing in the morning or later in the afternoon when the tour buses are all gone. You’ll have the evocative ruins all to yourself.

Pottery Workshop in Damalas

We stop in the village of Damalas (#4) to watch a pottery demonstration. The potter throws a pot with impressive speed and accuracy.

I’ve dabbled in pottery a bit and recognize expertise when I see it. His pot comes out perfectly.

A potter in a workshop surrounded by clay, shaping pottery on a spinning wheel while wearing a black tank top.
Pottery demonstration in the village of Damalas on Naxos

The small store adjacent to the workshop sells an impressive array of plates, jugs, platters, and figurines. I purchase a bowl and resolve that it will be my one pottery purchase of the trip.

I have a soft spot for buying pottery while traveling, but I have only a carry-on this trip and must make hard choices.

Chalki

The tour progresses at a brisk rate with frequent stops, the next being the charming village of Chalki (#5) where we have forty minutes to wander the picturesque alleys and sample olive oil and citron liqueur.

I buy a can of olive oil and a small bottle of the liqueur because, well, why not?

The town also contains an ancient Byzantine church called Panagia Drosiani that dates from the 4th to 6th centuries AD. We tale a quick look inside; the frescoes are impressive.

Apiranthos

The village of Apiranthos (#6) is billed as the most famous village in Naxos because of its marble cobbled streets (slippery when wet), narrow lanes, and panoramic views.

It is definitely charming, and we enjoy a stroll around.

A strip of cafés cater to the tour bus people, but we do our best to escape and walk up into the village in the short time allocated.

A whitewashed stone passageway in a traditional Greek village, leading to stone steps and a wooden door with iron grates.
Alleyway in the village of Apiranthos

Apollonas

Between Apiranthos and the seaside village of Apollonas (#7) lies some seriously twisty-wisty mountain roads. Our driver takes us around sharp curves and up steep slopes that would be challenging to negotiate in a small car, never mind a bus the size of a whale on wheels.

I’m very, very glad I decided not to rent a car on Naxos. If you really don’t like tours, then a car is your only option, but make sure you have nerves of steel!

The views are stunning in this remote area of the island. Our guide tells us about some of the tiny villages we lumber through. Historically, life was very harsh and populations are decreasing.

Finally, we reach the seaside and our final major stop of the day.

It’s almost 3 pm and well past time for lunch. The village of Apollonas clusters alongside a white sand beach. Several inviting cafés await the influx of the tour buses.

We find a table right at the edge of the water and order the best lunch of our entire trip (which is saying something).  

A serene coastal scene in Apollonas, Greece, with small fishing boats anchored in crystal-clear water. White-washed buildings with blue accents line the beach, nestled between rugged hills under a bright sky with fluffy clouds.
View from our lunch spot in Apollonas

Tzatziki is one of our favorite Greek dips and we eat it several times, but nothing tops the flavor, texture, and garlic content of the tzatziki at the little café in Apollonas.

We devour it along with a massive Greek salad and an order of saganaki (Greek fried cheese).

Kourus Statue – AKA the Colossus of Dionysius

Our last short stop is to admire a prone, large, and unfinished marble statue that is over 10 meters in height, weighs 80 tonnes, and dates to the 8th century BC.

Because the statue wears a long cloak and has long hair and a beard, most researchers think it depicts Dionysius, but some disagree and favor Apollo. I don’t suppose they’ll ever know for sure.

Verdict on the Big Bus Tour

Taking the bus tour did at least allow us to see a lot of Naxos. If it’s your only option, then definitely take a big bus tour rather than miss out on seeing the stunning Naxos countryside.

But if possible, opt for a small group tour or a private tour. Yes, you’ll pay more, but you’ll also avoid long waits getting on and off the bus and chatty people who talk over the commentary.

You’ll also likely go on smaller roads that the big buses can’t access, and you won’t feel quite so much like a tourist!

Last Night in Chora

We arrive back in Chora (AKA Naxos town) around 5 pm and return to Kalergis Suites for one last swim in the Aegean before the sun sets.

For dinner, we eat leftovers from our souvlaki dinner the night before. It tastes even better the second night—and the price can’t be beat!

In the evening, we stroll the fifteen minutes back to Chora to poke through the many souvenir stores and enjoy the relaxed ambience, very different from bustling Santorini.

I will definitely return to Naxos for a longer stay.

Leaving Naxos

Bright and early, we bid farewell to Kalergis Suites and take a taxi back to the port. More or less on time, the ferry churns in.

Along with 500 of our new friends, we surge up the gangway and stash our luggage. Before we’re halfway up the stairs to the passenger lounge, the ferry is pulling away from the port and we’re off.

The Joys of Upgrading

We find and settle into two very tight seats with no view and no leg room in tourist class. The voyage takes almost four hours, and Julia decides to check on upgrading to business class.

Off she goes to inquire, returning ten minutes later with upgraded tickets (25 euros each). We mount the interior staircase to business class where we discover that the extra cost is well worth the increased comfort of much wider seats and a view of the passing sea.

I’m all for saving money, but more and more, I opt for comfort over budget whenever I can.

With more room, I’m able to work on my computer when I’m not enjoying the view.

Practical Information for Your Naxos Itinerary

First off, do I think 2 days on the island of Naxos is enough? No, I can’t say that I do, but if it’s all you have, you can still get a good feel for this lovely island.

I think a trip to Naxos–the biggest island in the Cyclades–belongs in any Greek island-hopping itinerary that includes the Cyclades.

To save time, you can fly to Naxos from Athens and then from there do some Greek island hopping, perhaps to nearby Paros which is much smaller and with fewer visitors. 

Paros is so close that you can home base on Naxos and do a quick day trip to Paros.

Should Your Rent a Car on Naxos?

You can rent a car on Naxos, but the roads in the interior are very narrow and steep. Unless you’re staying on the island for at least a week and need a car to get from your accommodation to stores and restaurants, I wouldn’t bother.

You can see the island on a day tour like we did, and then stay near Chora so you can easily walk to where the action is.

Best Beaches in Naxos

If you don’t have a car, the best beach for you is the one closest to your accommodation. We stayed on Agios Georgios Beach (#1), and I can recommend it for its sandy beach and warm water. The water is also very shallow and so a good choice for travelers with families.

Here are some other options, all located on the west coast of Naxos as shown on the map:

Map created with Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android

Agios Prokopios Beach (#2) is considered one of the most beautiful beaches on Naxos with its long stretch of golden sand. You’ll find lots of amenities including sun beds to rent and tavernas to drink in.

Plaka Beach (#3) is known as a windsurfer’s dream and is backed by beautiful cedar trees that provide welcome shade on super hot days.

Alyko Beach (#4) is very picturesque with its sand dunes and rocky cliffs, and is a bit more secluded.

Mikri Vigla Beach (#5) boasts dramatic rock formations and is very secluded; a good choice if you’re looking for a unique landscape.

Kastraki Beach (#6) is known for its calm water which makes it a good choice for families. You’ll find several beachside tavernas with stunning views.

Pyragki Beach (#7) is another secluded cove with dramatic rock formations and good snorkeling.

Tours on Naxos

Here are some GetYourGuide tours of Naxos.

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Conclusion

Our trip to Greece included only two islands—Santorini and Naxos. I wish we’d had time to visit more, but as first-time visitors, we chose the best-for-us Greek island combo.

Santorini has the stupendous views, and Naxos has the laid-back atmosphere and rugged interior.

We stayed four nights on Santorini and three nights on Naxos, which worked well. Although I prefer Naxos for its relaxed Greek vibe, I’d still recommend giving Santorini a bit more time because there is a great deal to see.

Also, the longer you have to enjoy the views of the caldera on Santorini at many different times of day, from sunset to sunrise, the better.

But on my next trip to Greece, I’ll stay a full week on Naxos or another less-visited island and skip Santorini.

Have you visited Naxos? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

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