Favorite Regions in Italy for the Artsy Traveler

My favorite regions in Italy range from Milan and the Dolomites in the north to Naples in the south. Unless you have several months to spare, you can’t really “do” all of Italy in one trip.

You’ll spend far too much time traveling and far too little time enjoying. Pick one or two regions and spent a week or two in each.

As Rick Steves says, “travel like you plan to return.”

Map of Favorite Regions in Italy

The map below shows approximate locations of the main regions in Italy that I recommend you explore. I’ve visited all of them except for Sicily (coming soon!).

Map of Italy showing major tourist areas including Rome, Tuscany, and Venice

I’m going to start in the north and move south because we often drive to Italy, so that’s the direction we enter the country from.

Here are the five regions of Italy I suggest you explore:

  • Northern Italy: Turin, Lake Como, Milan, Dolomites
  • Venice and Ravenna
  • Tuscany and Umbria
  • Rome
  • Compania: Naples, Pompeii, Amalfi Coast

In this post, I give a brief overview of these areas and provide links to more in-depth posts.

Northern Italy

You could spend at least a week traveling through the regions of northern Italy.

Milan Cathedral at sunset
Milan Cathedral

From east to west, I recommend Turin, Lake Como, Milan, and the Dolomites. Spend at least a week in the north (not counting Venice which deserves at least three days on its own). You won’t run out of things to do!

Highlights of Northern Italy

Here are some of my favorite artsy highlights (a by no means an exhaustive list) in northern Italy:

  • Turin: The Egyptian Museum – Museo Egizio is first-rate. It houses one of the oldest collections of Ancient Egyptian artifacts in the world. Even if you’re only moderately interested in ancient Egypt, put it on your list.
  • Milan: The Duomo, Da Vinci’s Last Supper, and La Scala just for starters. There’s lots to see in Milan and it has a very different vibe (calmer in my opinion) than Rome.
  • Italian Lake District: Spend several days exploring the many small towns and the various lakes; gorgeous views, great food, lots of history.
  • The Dolomites: Drive as far up as you can and then take a chairlift or gondola even higher. The alpine culture is very different from the rest of Italy.
  • Bolzano: The South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology

For more details about these and other artsy sightseeing in northern Italy, check out Recommended Places to Travel in Northern Italy.

Venice

Don’t stint on the time you allocate to visiting Venice. The city is worth at least three days (preferably longer). You could choose to spend a week in the area–three or four nights in Venice, a night in the Veneto to visit Vicenza and Padua, and then head south to spend two nights in glorious Ravenna (more on Ravenna in a minute).

Rialto Bridge
Rialto bridge in stunning Venice

You don’t need a car in Venice and you can reach the other towns in the area by train.

Highlights of Venice

  • Peggy Guggenheim Museum – one of my very favorite small modern art museums in Europe (read more in Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe.
  • Piazza San Marco late at night when the crowds have thinned
  • Accademia Gallery – great selection of Renaissance and Baroque artists in a lovely, old building
  • Island of Murano to watch glass-blowing and buy glass souvenirs
  • Duomo and Doge’s Palace: must-see attractions, but go early or late and get reservations to avoid crowds
  • Enjoying a Vivaldi concert and getting lost in the dark on the way back to your hotel

For more details about these and other sightseeing options and to plan your trip to Venice, read Venice in Three Days for the Artsy Traveler.

Ravenna

Ravenna is a delightful small city south of Venice, most famous for the mosaics in the eight Christian monuments on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

While many of these sites, particularly the most famous mosaics in the Church of San Vitale, attract the tour busses, the rest of Ravenna is wonderfully non-touristy. Relax in the main square and watch the world go by. Ravenna has a subtle charm that made me want to write a novel set there just so I could go and stay for a good long while.

Piazza del Popolo in the evening, Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Piazza del Popolo in the evening, Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

While we were in Ravenna, we watched a bride and groom emerge from a church and get into a red Ferrari, stopped into an art opening and drank white wine with the two Italian artists who were exhibiting their paintings, and enjoyed one of the best meals we’ve ever had in Italy at Ristorante Alexander. Check out the website and make a reservation! The food was to die for and the prices very reasonable.

TIP: When dining in Italy, make use of review apps and websites to find good restaurants. Every time we’ve taken the time to search out well-rated restaurants and to make reservations, we’ve been amply rewarded by fabulous meals.

Highlights of Ravenna: Touring the UNESCO World Heritage Sites

The mosaics in the early Christian monuments are the big draw in Ravenna, as noted earlier.

TIP: Buy your combination ticket for the six UNESCO sites in central Ravenna at any of these locations: the Basilica San Vitale, Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, Neonian Baptistery, and the Archbishop’s Chapel.

The sixth site–the Arian Baptistery–is free and worth a visit to view the well-preserved domed mosaic, dating from the early 6th century AD, that shows Christ being baptized by John the Baptist.

At just €9.50 for entrance to all these sites, the Ravenna Mosaics combo ticket has to be one of Europe’s best artsy bargains. In addition to the six sites in central Ravenna, don’t miss the remaining two UNESCO sites. The mausoleum of Theodoric is a short walk from the town center, and the Church of Sant’Apollinare in Classe is an 8-kilometer drive towards the Adriatic coast.

Mosaic in Ravenna featuring the Empress Theodora
Mosaic in Ravenna featuring the Empress Theodora

Staying in Ravenna

We were driving when we visited Ravenna, and so, as usual, we stayed in a hotel on the outskirts. We then took taxis into the city and from there walked to seven of the eight UNESCO sites in the center of Ravenna. On our last morning in Ravenna, we drove to the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe.

For my hotel recommendations in Ravenna, read Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Tuscany and Umbria

Toscana! The very name evokes warmth and good living and beauty while at the same time associated with a deliciously turbulent history.

All those towers and walls and fortifications in towns such as San Gimignano and Siena and Lucca were not built back in the Middle Ages because life was easy. The architecture of Tuscan hill towns screams strife.

Fortress of Montalcino in Tuscany
The Fortress of Montalcino, a hill town in Tuscany

At the same time, the museums and churches of Tuscany burst at the seams with art–much of it created between 1300 and 1600, from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance.

We’ve been visiting Tuscany for years and plan to return. We’ve only recently “discovered” Umbria and were taken with its less touristy, more authentic atmosphere. While I love Tuscany, it can get overrun with visitors, particularly in Florence.

TIP: I recommend allocating at least a week to exploring Tuscany and another week for Umbria. Spend a few days in Florence to see the highlights and then if you have a car, find a house or an agriturismo property to rent for several days or a week in or near one of the medieval towns in Tuscany. Take day trips to other towns, bearing in mind that driving in Tuscany can be slow going on the twisty, narrow roads.

In a typical week, reserve a few days for just staying put and enjoying bella Toscana.

If you don’t have a car, you can still stay in the country, but choose a place that provides some assistance with transportation. You can join local tours such as wine tours (highly recommended!). Some properties offer cooking classes and painting classes.

After your week in Tuscany, spend a week in Umbria. The areas around Perugia or Assisi are good choices.

You won’t run out of things to see. I guarantee it!

For plenty of recommendations and suggestions, read Exploring Tuscany, Umbria and La Dolce Vita and Exploring San Gimignano in Tuscany. Also check out Art Masterpieces in Tuscany Who Don’t Want to Miss.

Rome

The Eternal City takes hold of your psyche with the weight of its 2,000-plus-year history and the central role it has played in the development of western culture.

Rome will not be denied.

Piazza Navona in Rome
Piazza Navona in Rome in the morning

I’ve visited Rome several times since my first trip there with my parents in 1974. During our most recent trip, Gregg and I spent ten days enjoying the city during Gregg’s exhibition of his paintings at a gallery near the Vatican. We lived like locals in an apartment in the same area and set aside time every day to explore new areas of Rome.

Read my Rome recommendations and a suggested itinerary for a three-day visit in The Best of Rome in Three Days.

Here are additional suggestions for what to see in Rome, including tours.

Naples and the Compania

Naples is kind of crazy–or at least it was when I visited a few years ago. We keep meaning to get down there again to see how or if it’s changed. I rather hoped it hasn’t.

I have a vivid memory of being driven in a taxi through downtown Naples and noticing how the driver barely slowed down at stop signs caked with dirt. Apparently, obeying them was optional. The driver pulled up in front of the National Archeological Museum in Naples, reputed to be one of the best museums in Italy for Roman antiquities. He then turned around and announced chiuso. Closed.

Oh. Those were the days before the Internet took the guesswork out of travel planning. Our only day in Naples was also the only day of the week when the museum was always closed.

That mistake wouldn’t happen nowadays which is a good thing although sometimes I miss the serendipity of the “olden” days when plans could so easily be derailed.

View of the Bay of Naples, the city of Naples, and Vesuvius in the distance
View of the Bay of Naples, the city of Naples, and Vesuvius in the distance

Read my recommendations and a suggested itinerary for a Week in the Campania.

Conclusion

I have a lot of posts on Italy for you to explore. Here again are some of the ones I’ve already mentioned along with a few more.

Dolomites in northern Italy

One Week in Northern Italy: Recommendations for an Artsy Trip

This one-week itinerary for touring Nothern Italy provides a taste of stately Turin and sophisticated Milan, along with the deliciously jagged Dolomite mountains and the Italian Lakes.

Although my itinerary covers the high points, consider spending more time at the lakes (Maggiore, Orta, Como, Iseo, and Garda) or hiking in the Dolomites. The views are stunning and the livin’ easy.

View of Lake Como, a suggested destination on my recommended one-week itinerary in northern Italy
Lake Como in northern Italy

Why Tour Northern Italy?

This area of Italy is sometimes skipped in favor of Tuscany, Umbria, Rome and beyond to the Campania and Sicily. But I loved touring Northern Italy because it’s like a different country compared to other regions of Italy.

It’s still Italian with great food and plenty of amazing cultural sights, but it also feels much more Germanic as a result of its proximity to Austria, Switzerland, and Germany. I found the people more reserved than their southern neighbors, albeit still helpful and friendly.

Interesting Cities

The two main cities in Northern Italy are Turin and Milan. There are also some wonderful places to explore in the Veneto, such as Padua and Vicenza, but in this post, I’m focusing only on the area from Turin in the far west near the border with France to Bolzano near the border with Austria in the north.

Turin and Milan are both worth a few days of your time.

View of Milan Cathedral at sunset; the cathedral is a must-see on a one-week itinerary in northern Italy
Milan Cathedral–a must-see in Northern Italy

Stunning Landscapes

The other reason for spending time in Northern Italy is to explore the spectacular landscapes of the Italian Lakes and the Dolomites.

Getting Around Northern Italy

Taking Trains and Tours

You can travel easily by train between Turin and Milan and then take day tours to explore the Italian lakes and some nearby cities. See the section on the Italian Lakes below for suggested day tours of the lakes that depart from Milan.

Driving in Northern Italy

If you’re driving, you’ll be able to explore more of the Dolomites and take side trips to cities like Verona. We found driving in Northern Italy to be quite easy, although the traffic around Milan can be horrendous. There are a lot of roads and a lot of people.

Turn on your GPS and focus. More than a few times, we’ve missed turn-offs and ended up navigating spaghetti-like mazes of roads before finding our way to where we needed to be.

Drivers can travel right up into the Dolomites along twisty mountain roads and check out charming towns like Bolzano. On the other hand, you don’t need a car in Turin and Milan. We book hotels on the outskirts that have free parking and then take a tram or bus into the city center.

Overview of A One-Week Itinerary in Northern Italy

Here’s my suggested one-week itinerary in Northern Italy:

  • One night in Turin
  • Four nights in Milan with a day trip to the Lakes OR two nights in Milan and two nights at Lake Como
  • Two nights in the Dolomites

Highlights of your one-week itinerary include visiting the Museo Egizio in Milan, taking a boat trip on one of the lakes, touring Milan Catheral, and hiking in the Dolomites.

Turin

Located in the northwest corner of Northern Italy near the French border, Turin (Torino in Italian) is an unpretentious city with a lovely central core and the not-to-be-missed Museo Egizio–one of the largest museums in the world solely dedicated to ancient Egypt.

I recommend you stay at least one night in Turin and spend a half-day exploring the Museo Egizio.

Museo Egizio

The Museo Egizio is enormous and can be very crowded.

Buy your tickets in advance and go early. The three floors are packed with beautifully curated exhibits. If you’re an ancient Egypt fan, you’ll be in heaven. And even if ancient Egypt isn’t your thing, you’ll find plenty to entertain you.

Here are some options for touring the Museo Egizio and Turin:

Staying in Turin

We were driving when we visited Turin, so we chose a hotel that was a little ways from the centro. The restful Parco Hotel Sassi fit the bill. We parked the car for free, relaxed for a while on our terrace overlooking beautiful grounds, and then took a short tram ride into Turin. Highly recommended.

Torino's Piazza Castello with tramway
Torino’s Piazza Castello with tramway

After our afternoon in Turin touring the Museo Egizio and walking around the large central piazza, we took the tram back to the hotel and walked to a local restaurant for dinner. The place was empty when we arrived and packed with locals by the time we left.

That meal ranks as one of our most memorable, both for the food and for the friendliness of the servers. We were the only tourists in the place.

TIP: Seek out restaurants recommended by your hotel and that are frequented by locals. If you go when the restaurant opens (usually around 7 pm), you’ll have the place to yourself. If you prefer conviviality and noise with your pasta and pizza, wait a few hours to join the crowds of Italian families that start pouring in around 9 pm.

The area around Turin is called the Piedmont and was the location of many of the sports venues used for the 2006 Olympics. If you have extra time, spend a day or two driving around this scenic area.

Milan

On both of my visits to Milan, I was struck by how stately and calm this Northern Italian city is, particularly compared to Rome and Naples.

I remember riding in a taxi on my first trip to Milan. We’d just taken the train from wonderful, frenetic Naples where a taxi ride was an adventure and stop signs merely suggestions, and spent several days in Rome. In Milan, the driver swung us into lanes of slow-moving, very well-behaved traffic and steered us sedately down wide avenues. I felt like I was on a main road through a particularly safe and dull Canadian suburb.

I commented to the driver that Milan seemed very different from Rome. She harrumphed and said, “This is Milan. We are not like Roma.” I got the impression she considered that a selling point.

I’m always fascinated by regional differences within a country. Certainly the differences betwen the north and the south in Italy are particularly noticeable!

Milan is Different

The taxi driver was right. Milan is not like its more rambunctious southern neighbors. The streets are wide and the city quite spread out. Traffic is dense. However, people actually drive in the correct lanes and avoid piling into intersections and honking.

Although Rome is notorious for its pickpockets, the only time we encountered petty theft in Italy was in Milan. At our hotel near the train station, Gregg witnessed the theft of the hotel manager’s wallet from the front desk when the manager’s back was turned. The manager gave chase but to no avail. So, the moral of that story is to never leave your valuables unattended.

On the other hand, I once left my purse containing our passports and my wallet on the counter at a very seedy hotel in Nice, only for it to still be there when, in a panic, I returned thirty minutes later.

You never know, but always err on the side of caution.

Top Sights in Milan

On a one-week itinerary touring Northern Italy, Milan is worth at least two days of your time or one very full day. I suggest you spend four days in Milan and spend one or two of them taking day tours to the Italian Lakes or spending two nights in Milan and driving to the lakes for another two nights.

If you enjoy shopping, set aside an afternoon to check out what’s on offer in Italy’s most sophisticated fashion city.

Here are the big draws in Milan.

The Duomo of Milan

The Milan Duomo is one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in Christendom, with a roof bristling with a forest of spires topped with sculptures. Make sure to buy your tickets in advance to avoid the long lines (see tour suggestions below).

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

After visiting the Duomo, head across the piazza to enter the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Billed as an aesthetically pleasing shopping arcade, the Galleria is worth escaping into from the sun or rain to browse designer shops, such as Louis Vuitton and Prada if your budget stretches that far, or to enjoy a coffee and pastry if it doesn’t.

The 19th-century glass ceiling is magnificent.

La Scala Opera House

La Scala is located at the far end of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. You’ll reach it after walking through the galleria from the Duomo. As one of the world’s most famous opera houses, it’s a must-see for music fans. Book a guided tour of the auditorium and the attached museum.

Sforza Castle

Wander through the hip Brera district, with its funky boutiques and trendy bars, to get to the imposing Sforza Castle (Castello Sforzesco).

If you’re a fan of the Medici series on Netflix (I’ve written a post about it over on Art In Fiction), you’ll remember Galeazzo Maria Sforza, one of the Sforza family’s most famous dukes. He was renowned both for his cruelty and for his patronage of music. Spoiler alert: he meets a bad end in Season 2 and in real life.

The Castello Sforzesco contains several worthwhile museums as well as Michelangelo’s unfinished Pieta. Also view the sala delle asse, a room with walls and ceiling painted by da Vinci and depicting intertwining trunks with leaves and fruit.

Castello Sforzesco in Milan
Castello Sforzesco in Milan

Purchase your tickets to Castello Sforzesco in advance and go early to beat the crowds (as usual!). Here’s a link to the Castello Sforzesco website.

Da Vinci’s Last Supper

Leonardo da Vinci, of Mona Lisa fame (among many other things), is also renowned as the painter of The Last Supper. Located in the refectory at the monastery of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the iconic fresco tops the list of must-see places in Milan.

But make sure to pre-book! I went there without a reservation in the vain hope I’d get in, although I should have known better. Alas, ’twas not to be. The person at the ticket counter actually laughed at me when I said I wanted a ticket for that day.

Don’t make the same mistake. The Last Supper is a major tourist attraction in Milan and rightly so. If you want to see it, buy your tickets online as far in advance as possible.

THe Last Supper Fresco by Leonardo da Vinci
The Last Supper – Paris Orlando [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

As soon as you know your travel dates in Milan, buy your tickets. Don’t wait until you get to Milan. Trust me on this!

Once you do get inside to view da Vinci’s masterpiece, you can stay for only 15 minutes.

Sightseeing Options in Milan

Here’s a selection of artsy sightseeing options for touring Milan. Other sites include Leonardo – The World of Leonardo and the art gallery: Pinacoteca di Brera

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The Italian Lakes

This region is simply gorgeous. In fact, you’ll quickly run out of adjectives to describe the unique combo of mountain vistas and shining lake views. No wonder so many ultra-rich people have villas in the region.

My one-week itinerary of Northern Italy covers the high points of the area, but if you have more time, spend it at the lakes Maggiore, Orta, Como, Iseo, and Garda; each has its own character and charm. Your best bet for a quick visit is to take a small group tour that includes two or three of the lakes, or a boat trip.

Although a round trip of the lakes covers only about 100 miles, you’re best to find one or two spots to stay in and enjoy rather than try to see everything.

Highlights include:

  • Bellagio on Lake Como from where you can take ferries and water taxies to other towns on the lake. You could spend all day cruising up and down the lake, enjoying the breezes and the stunning views, and looking out for celebrities sunning themselves on the terraces of their lakeside villas.
  • Lake Garda is the largest of the lakes, with the northern half surrounded by mountains and the southern half flat. North is better!
  • Sirmione on Lake Garda is known for its thermal baths and the Rocca Scaligera, a medieval castle that overlooks the lake.
  • Lake Maggiore and the Barromean Islands with their ornate gardens.
Rocca Scaligera in Sirmione on Lake Garda
Bellagio on beautiful Lake Como in the Italian Lakes, a highlight of a one-week itinerary touring Northern Italy
Bellagio on beautiful Lake Como in the Italian Lakes

Tours of the Italian Lakes

The Dolomites

The super-jagged, needle-like peaks of the Dolomites mountain range (the Dolomiti) have long fascinated me. They don’t look real, and yet they are. We’ve driven a few times in the area, and I’d like to return to do some hiking.

Allocate at least two days to this region during a one-week tour around Northern Italy.

Bolzano

Bolzano is a pleasant town considered the gateway to the Dolomites. We were impressed by the distinctive architecture of many of the buildings, some painted in pastel colors.

View of the city of Bolzano, Italy
View of the city of Bolzano, Italy

A big draw in Bolzano is the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology. Visit “Ötzi”, a well-preserved mummy of a man from about 3300 BC and the world’s oldest natural human mummy.

For more information, check the museum website.

Alpine Options

If you’re driving, head a little farther into the mountains and base yourself in Castelrotto. From there, go hiking in the Alpe di Siusi, a large Alpine meadow. Cable cars whisk you from stations near your hotel up to the meadow.

View of peaks in the Dolomites from Alpe di Siusi
View of peaks in the Dolomites from Alpe di Siusi

Another gorgeous location in both winter and summer is Alta Badia. Check the town’s excellent website for more information.

Carrying on South Into More Italy

If you’re driving into Italy through Bolzano, your next stop will probably be Venice. Read my recommendations for Venice and Ravenna.

If you’re driving into Italy through Turin, you’ll likely head south into Tuscany and Umbria, perhaps stopping on the way to check out the Cinque Terre.

You can also catch the high-speed train from Milan south to Florence and Rome.

Conclusion

Have you toured Northern Italy? What did you think? Do you have suggestions for must-sees (especially artsy-oriented must-sees) to share with other travelers? Add them to the comments below.

Here are more posts to help you plan your Italian travels: