Artsy sightseeing in Germany means music, castles, and museums, particularly in Berlin. And concerts!
Every time I travel to Germany, I make time to go to a classical music concert. After all, Germany is the home of Beethoven, Bach, Brahms, and a whole lot of other luminaries.
It’s also home to some of the world’s greatest concert halls. A classical music concert in Germany is always an artsy traveler treat.
In this post, I share some of my favorite artsy experiences in Germany.
Map of Germany: Suggested Artsy Favorites
The map below shows the locations of the artsy sightseeing favorites mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.
As a life-long lover of classical music and a pianist, I enjoy visiting museums dedicated to some of my favorite composers. Germany is home to many great composers, including Bach and Beethoven, both of whom have museums dedicated to them.
Bach Museum in Leipzig
If you’re a Bach fan, head for Leipzig to enjoy one of the hippest music museums I’ve ever visited. I could have stayed there all day!
The Bach Museum (#1 on the map) is located next to the Thomaskirche, the church where Bach is buried. The museum is open 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday so make sure you don’t make Monday your Leipzig day.
Statue of Johann Sebastian Bach in Leipzig Germany
A highlight for me were the many interactive exhibits, including the Virtual Baroque Orchestra. The instruments are displayed on a wall with each instrument being played marked by a light signal. Press the button corresponding to the instrument and its sound will be amplified so you can hear it more distinctly. The orchestra plays three pieces and I listened to them all.
Another highlight, particularly if you’re a musician and have played Bach, is the Listening Studio. Sit on a comfy couch at a listening station, don the headphones provided and search a database containing every single one of Bach’s compositions (and trust me, he wrote a lot). I wanted to stay forever.
Here are some other sightseeing options in Leipzig.
Staying in Leipzig
I recommend the stylish Radisson Blu Hotel Leipzig, which is within walking distance of the concert hall and the Bach museum.
Beethoven House in Bonn
I first visited Beethoven’s birthplace in Bonn when I was 18. I’ll never forget going into the small house and hearing Beethoven being played on a piano located in the room where he was born.
The Beethoven-Haus (#2) museum has grown since then and is now considered one of the most visited music museums in the world. It’s also one of the 100 most popular sights in Germany.
The museum is open almost every day of the year from 10 am to 6 pm.
Statue of Beethoven in Bonn, Germany
Concerts in Germany
Go out of your way to attend concerts when you’re in Germany. Choose a major concert venue such as the Elbphilharmonie in Hamburg, a chamber concert, or even a folk performance.
Classical Concerts in Berlin
One of the highlights of our German travels was hearing Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring in the Philharmonie Hall (#3) in Berlin. Checking out this acoustically amazing and super-modern concert hall was almost as exciting as enjoying the performance.
The Berliner Philharmonie concert hall in Berlin, Germany
Classical Concerts in Leipzig
While seeing a symphony orchestra perform in a grand concert hall is a huge artsy traveler treat, also seek out smaller venues to see chamber music and solo performances. At the world famous Gewandhaus (#4) in Leipzig, we snagged last-minute tickets to see a pianist perform a stellar repertoire of Chopin. The cost was only about fifteen euros each–an amazing bargain considering the quality of the performance. At smaller venues, you may be the only tourist. Enjoy being a temporary local among fellow music lovers.
Classical Concerts in Cologne
In Cologne, catch a performance at the Kölner Philharmonie (#5). Located close to Cologne Cathedral, the modern concert hall is breathtaking, with excellent acoustics and comfy seats.
Classical Concerts in Hamburg
In Hamburg, see a performance at the ultra-modern Elbphilharmonie (#6)–one of the world’s most stunning concert halls.
Folk Music in Bacharach
On a folksier note, be on the lookout for concerts featuring medieval instruments. We attended one in Bacharach in the Rhine Valley. Costumed performers played wind instruments, drums, zithers, and other medieval instruments and explained in English and German what they were playing. At the end of the concert, most of the audience (me included) got up to dance.
Museums in Germany
Germany is awash with amazing museums, including some of the largest museums in the world in Munich and Berlin. Here are a few of my favorites.
Romano-Germanic Museum in Cologne
The Romano-Germanic Museum (#7) (Römisch-Germanisches Museum) is simply amazing and one of the best museums we’ve visited in Germany.
Beautifully curated displays present the archaeological heritage of Cologne from the Palaeolithic period to the early Middle Ages, including the centuries when Rome was in charge. You’ll see the world’s largest collections of Roman glass vessels, and gold work and goods showing the lives of Romani and Franks in early medieval Cologne.
Here are some other sightseeing options in Cologne.
Duetsches Museum in Munich
I first visited the Deutsches Museum (#8) back in the 1990s when my daughter was eight. This incredible museum presents twenty exhibitions exploring science and technology, from aviation and chemistry to robotics and health. It’s a great place to take a child thanks to plenty of hands-on exhibits with explanations in English and German. Allow plenty of time to enjoy this museum!
Miniatur Wunderland in Hamburg
Spare a few hours for Hamburg’s Miniatur Wunderland (#9), touted as the largest model railway in the world. It really is spectacular. No wonder it’s Hamburg’s number one tourist attraction with more than 16 million visitors from all over the world.
As the name suggests, Miniatur Wunderland showcases the world in miniature with over 265,000 figures, along with thousands of cars, ships, trains, and even planes taking off and landing. Everything is automated, providing constant jolts of fun as you stroll around the vast space (1,499 square meters). Kids will love it and adults will appreciate the incredible craftsmanship.
Art Museums in Germany
Here’s a list of some of my favorite art museums in Germany.
Berlin Art Galleries
Pergamon Museum in Berlin
As one of the most visited museums in Germany, the Pergamon Museum (#10) deserves a spot high on your list of Berlin sites. The big attraction is the incredible collection of massive archaeological structures from ancient Middle East, including the Pergamon Altar, the Market Gate of Miletus, the Ishtar Gate and Processional Way from Babylon, and the Mshatta Façade.
The Pergamon Museum is one of five world-class museums on Museum Island in Berlin. To read about all of them, see Booming Berlin.
Gemäldegalerie in Berlin
The modern building (#11) houses a first-rate collection of European painting from the 13th to 18th centuries including masterpieces by Jan van Eyck, Pieter Bruegel, Albrecht Dürer, Raphael, Titian, Caravaggio, Peter Paul Rubens, Rembrandt, and Jan Vermeer van Delft.
Here are more options in Berlin:
Munich Art Galleries
There are three “Pinakotheken” museums in the Art District or Kunstareal: the Alte Pinakothek (#12) is one of the oldest museums in the world and houses a fine collection of Old Masters.
Nearby is Pinakothek der Moderne (#13) which is four museums in one: art, prints and drawings, architecture, and design. When we visited, we saw a wonderful exhibition of paintings by Frank Stella.
The Neue Pinakothek is closed until 2025. Several works from the collection, including paintings by Goya, Manet, van Gogh, and Klimt, are currently on display on the ground floor of the Alte Pinakothek.
Max Ernst Museum Near Cologne
A highlight is a visit to the Max Ernst Museum (#14) in Brühl, an easy tram ride from Cologne or Bonn. The museum features a marvelous collection of work by one of the 20th century’s foremost surrealists. Max Ernst is one of Gregg’s favorite artists (Gregg Simpson is my husband and also an artist and my frequent travel companion!), so visiting the museum was a true pilgrimage for him.
If you’re a fan of the work of Max Ernst, be sure to put the museum on your list. The grounds surrounding the museum are beautiful.
Albrecht Dürer’s House in Nuremberg
This charming house (#15) where Dürer (1471-1528) lived and worked for over 20 years is one of the few surviving burgher houses in Nuremberg. It’s also the only surviving artist’s house from the period in northern Europe.
Albrecht Durer’s House, Nuremberg, Germany
Tour the various rooms to see how a wealthy person lived in
the 16th century. Head upstairs to the workshop to enjoy a
demonstration of the printmaking techniques Dürer used to produce his woodcuts,
including one of his most famous—the rhinoceros.
Conclusion
One of the many things I love about traveling in Germany is the variety of interesting sights and regions, and as mentioned earlier, the quality of the music performances. At least two weeks is needed to even scratch the surface of Germany. It’s a big country!
Must-see places are Berlin, the Rhine Valley, and Munich, and if you have time, check out Leipzig, Dresden, and Hamburg. Here are more posts about Germany to explore:
Are you a fan of modern art? If so, then you’ll find plenty of art thrills in Europe, where some of the best modern and contemporary art museums in the world are located.
In this post, I’ve chosen mostly large museums that feature a variety of artists.
My focus is on modern art so you won’t find museums like the Prado and the Louvre in this post. But you will find the Pompidou, the Guggenheim Bilbao and the Tate Modern!
As a life-long lover of modern art (check out my husband Gregg Simpson’s art and you’ll see why!), I’m a bit of a kid in a candy store when it comes to finding awesome modern art museums in Europe.
You’ll be spoiled for choice!
Highlights at a Glance
The iconic architecture of the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao in Spain’s evocative Basque Country
Picasso’s Guernica at the Reina Sofia in Madrid, Spain–so much more powerful in person than in reproductions
The stunning outdoor art installations at the Kröller-Müller Museum near Otterlo in the Netherlands
The collection of 20th century modern masters on the 4th floor of the Pompidou in Paris
The location and ambiance of the Fondation Maeght in the hills above the French Riviera near the delightful village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Check for Exhibitions
Before you set off for Europe, take some time to check for special exhibitions in the places you’re visiting. Many times, I’ve changed my itinerary on the fly to catch an exhibition before it closes or to take in one at its start.
One of the great pleasures of traveling is switching gears halfway through a trip—to zig when you planned to zag. Stay open to possibilities when you travel. Often, you’ll meet someone who’ll tell you about a must-see art museum that you’ve never heard of.
On a recent trip to Porto in Portugal, we were told about a special exhibition of the work of M. C. Escher. What a treat! We never would have known about it because of its location in an exhibition space rather than a museum.
Artist & usual travel companion Gregg Simpson at the M. C. Escher special exhibition in Porto
Chat with servers at dinner and strike up a conversation with other travelers you meet on the train or at your hotel. People love to share recommendations!
Modern Art Focus
As I mentioned earlier, this post focuses only on museums with significant and varied modern artcollections.
What do I mean by modern art? I’m a huge fan of 20th-century art from about the turn of the century to the 1960s. I also appreciate some (not all) of the contemporary art created post-1960.
Most of the art museums covered in this post primarily exhibit traditional modern art. That sounds like an oxymoron, but if you’re an art fan, you’ll know what I mean!
Modern art—as distinct from contemporary art—encompasses the work of a slew of big names. These include Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, Henri Matisse, Georgia O’Keeffe, Rene Magritte… the list goes on and on and on.
In this post, I list only museums that works by modern masters in their permanent collections
Map of Modern Art Museums in Europe
Here are the locations of all the modern art museums covered in the post–from Bilbao (#1) in Spain to the Tate St. Ives (#12) in Cornwall, England.
The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao (#1 on the map) is worth the hype and worth the trip. Located in the Basque region of northeast Spain, Bilbao isn’t on the beaten tourist path.
But please, if you’re in northern Spain and within striking distance of Bilbao, find the time to spend a night there.
The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao was built to revive the failing industrial city. How marvelous that the city bigwigs used art to pull their city out of the economic doldrums and place it firmly on the world cultural map.
The move was bold, even audacious, but it’s paid off spectacularly, thanks to Frank Gehry’s awesome structure.
Now the Guggenheim Bilbao shows up in just about every Top Ten list of modern art museums worldwide.
Exterior of the Guggenheim Bilbao
The exterior of the Guggenheim Bilbao plays a major role in its spectacular appeal to art lovers. Stroll around outside the building to see the many amazing sculptures.
Most notable are Tall Trees and The Eye by Anish Kapoor, the massive spider Maman by Louise Bourgeois, and the wildly popular Puppy by Jeff Koons.
I defy anyone to stand in front of Puppy and not smile. He is adorable. That is, if a 43-foot tall, flower-encrusted West Highland Terrier can be called adorable.
The museum’s interior is as compelling as its exterior.
On one of our visits, we were lucky to catch a major exhibition of recent landscapes by David Hockney. The massive galleries and thoughtful curatorial choices made the exhibition one of our favorites, which is saying something.
We were also taken with the massive installations by Frank Serra.
The whole complex with its gorgeous setting on the Nervion River really is miraculous. The museum attracts over 20 million visitors annually.
Now, that’s an art success story!
Exhibitions at the Guggenheim Bilbao change frequently so check what’s on and then plan your visit accordingly. You won’t regret devoting time to exploring the Basque region of Spain.
Practical Information for the Guggenheim Bilbao
Guggenheim Bilbao is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 7 pm. It’s closed on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. Museum admission currently costs €15 for adults, €7.5 for seniors (65+) and students. Youths under 18 and Museum members are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.
Tours of the Guggenheim Bilbao
A great way to see the Guggenheim Bilbao is on a private tour if you have the spare funds or a small group tour for the budget-conscious. Modern art is sometimes not so easy to understand, and having a guide can really help you make sense of what you’re looking at.
You’ll also learn a lot about the stunning architecture and permanent installations such as Puppy and Maman. Here’s a guided tour offered through GetYourGuide.
Where to Stay in Bilbao
On both my trips to Bilbao, I stayed in excellent four-star hotels. Both were within walking distance of the Guggenheim Bilbao.
Catalonia Gran Vía Bilbao: In downtown Bilbao, this place is truly lovely with a very friendly staff and a good location for exploring more of Bilbao beyond the Guggenheim.
Hotel Meliá Bilbao: Situated right on the river, the modern hotel has all the amenities and is fairly easy to drive to.
Bratislava, Slovakia: Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum
Situated on the Danube as the name suggests and about 20 kilometers from Bratislava in the Slovak Republic, the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum is billed as “one of the most romantic museums of modern art in Europe”.
The museum, opened in 2000, was founded by Gerard Meulensteen of Eindhoven, a Dutch collector and art patron, and Slovak gallerist Vincent Polakovič.
The collection includes works by artists from the experimental CoBrA group in the Netherlands, such as Karel Appel and Eugen Brands . Also included are works by Sam Francis, Christo, Corneille, Pierre Alechinsky, and others.
Plenty of quirky and colorful outdoor sculptures along with the dramatic setting on the Danube make this museum a must-see if you’re traveling to Bratislava.
Practical Information for the Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum
Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm. Museum admission currently costs €10 for adults, €5 for seniors (62+) and students. Children under 6, seniors (75+) and Museum members are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.
Where to Stay in Bratislava
The Danubiana Museum is a few kilometers up river from Bratislava itself where you’ll find these two hotels. Both are located in historic buildings and highly rated.
Marrol’s Boutique Hotel: Located in Bratislava city center, this hotel is rated 5-star, but the price is more like a 3-star. It looks amazing!
Arcadia Boutique Hotel: Centrally located in a 13th-century building in Bratislava’s Old Town. Rooms include antique furniture.
London, England: Tate Modern
I’ve visited the Tate Modern in London a few times and have mixed feelings about it, to be honest! It’s a monumental place and a huge accomplishment from an architectural perspective.
I mean, seriously—a power station?
It’s pretty darned amazing that Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron could convert the Bankside power station into an art gallery and still keep much of the building’s original character.
View of the Tate Modern from the Thames in London, England
I can’t say I loved—or even liked—all the art exhibited in the Tate Modern. Several exhibits comprise contemporary and installation art, most of which was kind of hit or miss, in my opinion.
However, the special exhibitions can be spectacular. I saw a wonderful retrospective of the work of American artist Georgia O’Keeffe on one visit, and an exhibition of international surrealism on another visit. My husband, Gregg Simpson, was honored to be included in the catalog for the latter exhibition.
Location of the Tate Modern
The location of the Tate Modern on the south side of the Thames, right across the new Millennium Bridge from St. Paul’s Cathedral, is a selling point. You can see the Tate Modern in the morning and then stroll across the bridge and visit St. Paul’s and the City in the afternoon.
You can also take in two Tates in a day. A good strategy is to start at the Tate Britain upriver. Check out the paintings by William Blake and some of the best works by the pre-Raphaelites. Then, hop on the Tate Boat at Millbank Pier and sail downriver to Bankside Pier to see the Tate Modern.
The Tate Boat runs every twenty to thirty minutes along the Thames.
And if you happen be down in St. Ives in Cornwall, don’t miss the Tate St. Ives.
Practical Information for the Tate Modern
Tate Modern is open daily from 10 am – 6 pm and the admission is free.
Tours of the Tate Modern
Why not take a tour of the Tate Modern with an expert guide? You’ll learn about the history and architecture of the gallery along with highlights of the collection. Here’s a link to the guided tour on GetYourGuide:
I always stay around the West End so I’m within walking distance of the theaters, Trafalgar Square and two of my favorite art museums–the National Gallery and the Courtauld. Here are three places I’ve stayed in that I recommend and that won’t break the bank (and are still four-star and comfy):
Wilde Aparthotel Covent Garden: Located steps from the Strand in the center of the action, the Wilde Aparthotel Covent Garden is an excellent choice. I even wrote a whole post about my stay there!
The Cavendish near Green Park is in a posh area and close to just about everything.
Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel is located right across the street from Victoria Station and is a remarkably good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.
Madrid, Spain: Reina Sofia
The Reina Sofia is home to one of the most famous paintings of the 20th century—Guernica by Pablo Picasso.
You’ve likely seen Guernica many times in reproduction. However, seeing the “real thing” is a different story.
The massive mural in the Reina Sofía has pride of place in a room of its own. You can sense how enraged Picasso must have felt as he painted it. Its graphic depiction of the bombing of the old Basque city of Gernika in April 1937 has become an iconic image of the brutality of war.
Outdoor reproduction of Guernica by Picasso / Image by Almudena Sanz from Pixabay
The Reina Sofia is a beautifully designed gallery that combines a modern area with the arched hallways and barred windows of an old hospital. In several rooms, films representing specific 20th-century periods are running. Most are silent-era films, which makes following them a lot easier if your Spanish is minimal.
Included in the Reina Sofia are masterpieces by Salvador Dalí, Joan Miró, and Juan Gris, as well as a collection of over 22,400 works divided into three sections titled: The Irruption of the 20th Century: Utopia and Conflict (1900-1945), Is the War Over? Art in a Divided World (1945-1968), and From Revolt to Postmodernity (1962-1982).
Visiting the Reina Sofía
The museum is located on the Art Walk (Paseo del Arte)—a one-kilometer stretch that also includes the must-see Prado Museum and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum.
Reina Sofia is open from daily except Tuesdays from 10 am to 9 pm (Sundays until 2:30 pm). Museum admission currently costs €12. The website has the latest rates.
Tours of the Reina Sofia
Explore the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, Spain’s national museum of 20th-century art, on a guided tour and learn about the diverse collection.
Stay as close to the centro as you can in Madrid. Largely traffic free, the centro is full of narrow streets and grand plazas, and not too far from Madrid’s three big museums, including the Reina Sofia.
ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini: I stayed here for two weeks and loved it! The location right across the street from the Royal Palace puts it about a ten minute walk from the centro, but still outside the traffic limited zone so you can drive there and park in the parking lot right next door. The staff are wonderful and the one-bedroom apartment spacious and comfortable.
nQn Aparts & Suites Madrid: This place is even closer to the city center within steps of the Plaza Mayor.
Munich, Germany: Pinakothek der Moderne
The Pinakothek der Modern in central Munich is one of three Pinakotheks in Munich’s Kunstareal (art district).
The museum features an excellent collection of the works of German Expressionist artists. In addition, you’ll find works by modern masters, including Picasso, Miró, Kandinsky, Klee, and Marc.
Other exhibits are related to form and function in a section that features modern industrial design and manufacture, furniture, and appliances.
On Sundays, the admission price is significantly discounted—at least it was when I visited. After strolling through the galleries, stop by the café.
Practical Information for the Pinakothek der Moderne
Pinakothek der Moderne is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (Thursdays to 8 pm). Museum admission currently costs €10 for adults, €7 for seniors (65+) and students. Youths under 18 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.
Interesting Art Tour in Munich
After touring the Pinakothek der Moderne, keep the art juices flowing by taking this intriguing-looking street art bike tour with GetYourGuide. There’s a lively street art scene in Munich, a city that pioneered the graffiti movement in Germany in the 1980s.
Boutique Hotel Splendid: Located in the center of Munich within easy walking distance of many attractions. Comfortable rooms.
Andaz Munich Schwabinger Tor, By Hyatt: This is a bit of a splurge, but its location next to the English Garden is great if you’re looking for a stroll in nature after touring Munich’s museums. The buffet breakfast here was the most opulent I’ve ever seen.
To say that the Kröller-Müller blew me away that first visit would be an understatement. Fresh off the plane from North America, I’d seen nothing like it in my North-American life.
The Kröller-Müller Museum is light, airy, and filled with famous works by van Gogh and a load of other great painters.
Even better, the museum is smack in the middle of the Dutch National Park. This amazing park teems with deer, rolling sand hills, intriguing forests, and miles of bike paths.
Visiting the Kröller-Müller Museum
When I revisited the museum with Gregg recently, I was thrilled to discover that the Kröller-Müller and the park are as awesome as I remembered.
Everything about the place is perfect!
The museum includes dozens of paintings by van Gogh, room after room of other greats from the 19th and early 20th centuries, a massive sculpture garden, and even a bustling outdoor café with excellent food.
The word that comes to mind when touring the sculpture garden is serendipity. The sculptures are modern and diverse and often positioned in unexpected places.
Every turn of a pathway through forests and across green clipped lawns reveals yet another vista and another sculpture—stone or wood or marble, some moving, some static, some aesthetically stunning, some quirky, a few ugly, and yet all perfect.
Floating sculpture on the grounds of the Kröller-Müller Museum in the Netherlands
Getting to the Kröller-Müller Museum
If you’re a fan of van Gogh and modern sculpture but haven’t visited the Kröller-Müller, then go.
Take a day tour from Amsterdam, or better, drive and stay a few days in the area. We combined our visit to the Kröller-Müller with a bike ride around a portion of the 55-square-kilometer national park.
Explore a remarkably varied landscape that includes stunningly beautiful forests, heathlands, and sand dunes. You’ll spot impressively antlered deer, wild boar, foxes, sheep, and more.
Red deer stag in the Dutch National Park at Hoge Veluwe
Practical Information for the Kröller-Müller Museum
Kröller-Müller Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm. Museum admission currently costs €13.50 for adults, €6.75 for youths (13 – 18). Children under 12 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates. Plaese note that the museum is located in the middle of De Hoge Veluwe National Park. Therefore, you also have to buy a ticket for the park that costs €13.40 for age 13 and older, and €6.70 for ages 6 -12.
Tour to the Kröller-Müller from Amsterdam
This full-day tour is a great option if you don’t have your own transport. The tour goes from Amsterdam and includes time to explore the awesome Hoge Veluwe National Park.
The Kröller-Müller Museum is in a lovely rural area of the Netherlands. You can choose to stay near the museum or in nearby Arnhem. Here’s the place I stayed in:
Fletcher Hotel-Restaurant De Buunderkamp: This place is nestled in the woods not far from the Kröller-Müller Museum. Rooms are spacious and there’s an indoor pool. You can even rent bikes to explore the area, which we did and it was gorgeous!
Paris, France: Centre Pompidou
My most recent experience with the Pompidou Center (one of my absolute favorite modern art museums in Europe) was fraught with pure terror.
Gregg and I were trying to find an art gallery on an obscure side street that even Google Maps couldn’t find. The gallery was hosting an exhibition of Gregg’s work, so finding it was a matter of some urgency.
I directed Gregg to turn down what I trusted was the right street. He drove a short block over cobblestones to emerge into a wide, pedestrian-only space that butted up against the back end of the massive Pompidou Center.
Mon Dieu!
I looked up at the crazy exoskeleton of pipes and glass that had horrified Parisians when it was first built and yelled a few choice curses into my phone. The Google Maps lady was not impressed. She continued to insist that we drive across the square.
Exterior of the Pompidou Center in Paris
Luckily, the space was relatively empty of people (a rare event) so Gregg was able to execute a hasty U-turn and head smartly down the correct street. The only problem was that the street was one-way, and we were barreling down it the wrong way.
Fortunately, we found the gallery without having a head-on collision. A few hours later, after unloading the paintings and hanging the show, we were swanning about the vernissage (the opening), champagne glasses in hand.
Phew!
Visiting the Centre Pompidou
Every time we visit Paris, we make a beeline for the Pompidou. Its special exhibitions are almost always excellent.
Check what’s on before coming to Paris and adjust your dates accordingly. One of our favorite special exhibitions featured the work of Gerhard Richter way back in 2012. I was impressed both by the range and styles of Richter’s work and the thoughtful way in which the exhibit was curated.
No matter when you go to the Pompidou, you’ll always have the legendary fourth floor to wander through. This floor features the museum’s permanent collection and is a veritable “who’s who” of early 20th-century modern art.
All the most famous names are represented. Enjoy strolling through the rooms picking out your favorites and reveling in the glorious mishmash of colors and forms that characterizes 20th-century modern art.
After sighing your way around the art, take the escalator to the rooftop to relish one of the best views of the Paris skyline.
Practical Information for the Pompidou Center
Centre Pompidou is open daily except Tuesdays from 11 am to 9 pm. Museum admission currently costs €18. The website has the latest rates.
Tour of the Pompidou Center
This 2-hour private tour of the Pompidou lets you skip the line and provides expert commentary on the world’s largest collection of contemporary art. It’s a bit pricey but you’ll learn a lot!
I favor staying on the Left Bank when I’m in Paris, preferably Saint Germain, although that area is getting pretty very expensive. In Paris, an apartment or aparthotel may be your best bet. Hotel rooms tend to be very small.
Here are three of my recommendations for places to stay in Paris on the Left Bank.
Hotel de L’Université: I love the location of this boutique hotel–close to Boulevard Saint Germain and the Seine but a bit removed from the busiest areas of Saint Germain. Rooms are quite spacious (for Paris) and the old beams in the ceiling are a nice touch.
Citadines Saint-Germain-des-Prés: This aparthotel is part of the Citadines chain and is good value considering the excellent location right on the Seine in the 6th arrondisement.
Le Clos Medicis: Located very close to the Jardin du Luxembourg, this charming boutique hotel has attractive rooms and a very comfy lobby.
Rome, Italy: National Gallery of Modern Art
Rome’s National Gallery of Modern Art (Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna) is conveniently located on the edge of the Borghese Gardens, surely one of Europe’s most beguiling parks.
View of the Temple of Asclepius at Villa Borghese Gardens in Rome
The gallery features an excellent collection of 20th-century Italian painters, including Giorgio de Chirico (a particular favorite), Amedeo Modigliani, Antonio Canova, Giacomo Balla, and Giorgio Morandi.
You’ll also find works by Rodin, Degas, van Gogh, Monet, Duchamp, Man Ray, and Pollock.
Unlike the Vatican and the other Renaissance and ancient Roman attractions of Rome, the National Gallery of Modern Art is sparsely attended and therefore extremely pleasant.
After your visit, stroll along the shaded pathways of the Borghese Gardens.
Practical Information for the National Gallery of Modern Art in Rome
National Gallery of Modern Art is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 7 pm. The admission currently costs €10. The website has the latest rates.
Tour of the Borghese Gallery
The very popular Borghese Gallery is close by. Here’s an option that inclues a guided tour with your tickets. The Borghese is well worth a visit, and houses one of my favorite Baroque sculptures by Bernini.
I favor staying in apartments when in Rome because I’m usually staying at least a week. Here are two of the apartments I’ve stayed in that provided excellent value in great locations:
Viam 16b Suites: I loved this place! It’s located on a tiny side street close to the Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps in an upscale area of Rome. Unlike many apartments in Rome, the Viam 16b Suites is staffed during the day. Our suite included an outdoor terrace.
Sant’Angelo Apartments: The location deep in the ancient Jewish Ghetto is a big selling point and the apartment itself is comfortable, albeit a bit dark. But walk out your front door and you’r’re steps from Roman ruins.
Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France: Fondation Maeght
The Fondation Maeght makes just about every list of must-see art museums in Europe. While not the largest modern art museum in Europe, the Maeght is one of the most respected and also the most beautifully situated.
On the grounds of the fabulous Fondation Maeght in the south of France
I can’t say that every exhibition we’ve seen at the Fondation Maeght has been great. However, you still ought to visit if you’re in the area. When the exhibitions are good, they are extremely good.
The Fondation Maeght is a private foundation that was conceived and funded by Aimé and Marguerite Maeght to exhibit modern art. The Maeghts had several artist friends, including Georges Braque, Alexander Calder, Marc Chagall, Alberto Giacometti, Fernand Léger, and Joan Miró, who from the get-go donated or sold their work to the Foundation.
As Miró emphasized, the Fondation Maeght “…must before all be a place for art that remains alive.”
Visiting the Fondation Maeght
We first visited the Fondation Maeght in the 1990s during our first family trip to Europe with our young daughter. It was love at first sight!
Highlights include the giant sculptures by so many of the great 20th-century modern artists, including Miró, Giacometti, Arp, and Calder; spectacular views across the hills of the Riviera to the turquoise Mediterranean; and an airy modernist gallery.
You can visit the Fondation Maeght on a tour, but you’d be best off spending at least a few nights exploring the area and visiting the Maeght for a few hours at the beginning or end of the day when the light is best for photography.
Practical Information for the Fondation Maeght
Fondation Maeght is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm (July and Augusut to 7pm). The admission currently costs €18 for adults, €14 for youths (16 – 18), students, press and unemployed visitors. Children under 16 and disabled visitors are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.
Tour of Medieval Villages
If you don’t have a car, this tour of medieval villages that goes from Nice stops in Saint-Paul-de Vence for 1.5 hours, which is enough time for a flying visit to the Fondation Maeght.
The village of Saint Paul-de-Vence has been well and truly discovered and accommodations there are not budget-friendly. Here are two options:
Le Hameau: Located in an 18th-century farmhouse with a view of the valley and the village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, this place is close to the Fondation and includes a gorgeous pool
Hotel Marc-Hely: Located a few kilometers away in La Colle-sur-Loup, this comfortable hotel room included a balcony and very friendly properietors.
Venice, Italy: Peggy Guggenheim Collection
If I were to pick a favorite modern art museum from this Must-See list, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice would rank in the top three.
Located right smack on the Grand Canal in the Dorsoduro district of magical Venice between Santa Maria della Salute and the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection just makes me smile. I can’t visit it often enough!
Carol next to a statue of a horse in front of the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice.
The museum houses Peggy Guggenheim’s personal collection of 20th-century art, including masterpieces of cubism, surrealism, and abstract expressionism.
Gregg is a huge fan of Max Ernst,to whom Peggy was married for a time. Several of Ernst’s marvelous paintings are featured in the collection. Other artists in the permanent collection include Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian.
It really is an embarrassment of 20th-century riches.
If you’re in Venice, take a break from the Renaissance and cross the canal to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Wander the cool halls of her renovated palazzo to view the paintings and sculptures, then descend the steps to the edge of the canal and watch the boats go by.
Venice panorama city skyline at Venice Grand Canal, Venice Italy
Practical Information for the Peggy Guggenheim Collection
Peggy Guggenheim Collection is open daily except Tuesdays from 10 am to 6 pm. The admission currently costs €16 for adults, €14 for seniors (70+), €9 for students under 26. Members and children under 10 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.
Art Tour in the Dorsoduro
This private art and culture tour includes both the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the wonderful collection of Venetian art at the Accademia.
Venice is expensive, but splurge and stay in a central area of this remarkable city rather than in nearby Mestre. Venice at night is the best. Streets that are thronged during the day become dark and empty and you’re bound to get lost on your back back to your accommodations. But you’re on an island and eventually you’ll find your way through alleyways that look like they haven’t changed in centuries, which is pretty much the case.
San Teodoro Palace: This one-bedroom apartment is huge by Venice standards and located steps from the Rialto Bridge in a very lively and touristy area.
Ca’ Mirò: Settle into this two-floor apartment in a quiet area of Venice not far from the train station and become a temporary Venetian. It’s gorgeous.
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art Near Copenhagen, Denmark
The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (#11 on the map at the top of this post) is about a 30-minute train ride north of Copenhagen. It’s world-renowned as one of Europe’s best modern art museums, and therefore a must-visit for the Artsy Traveler!
Check what exhibitions are on, but even if they don’t appeal, visit the museum anyway. It makes for a lovely morning out from Copenhagen. You reach it by train (covered by the Copenhagen Card) followed by a pleasant 20-minute stroll along a suburban road to the museum.
After visiting the exhibitions, head outside where the real stars of the museum are located.
Sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art near Copenhagen, Denmark
Practical Information for the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is open from 11 am to 10 pm on Tuesdays to Fridays and 11 am to 6 pm on Saturdays and Sundays. The admission currently costs DKK 145 for adults, DKK 125 for students. Louisiana members and youths under 18 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.
Day Tour from Copenhagen
Here’s a private day tour to Louisiana Museum of Modern Art from Copenhagen with Viator, or on another day, consider this day trip from Copenhagen with GetYourGuide to three interesting destinatoins outside Copenhagen: Kronborg, Frederiksborg Castle and Roskilde:
Here are two recommended places to stay in Copenhagen, both in the atmospheric Nyhavn area. See my post about both places for more details.
Sanders Haven: This huge apartment is one of the best places I’ve stayed anywhere in Europe (which is saying something). If it’s available, book it!
Phoenix Copenhagen: A stylishly upscale hotel in the Nyhavn area with friendly staff.
Tate St. Ives in Cornwall, England
The Tate St. Ives (#12) is a delightfully compact and easy-to-tour museum overlooking the sea in lovely little St. Ives. I visited on a recent trip to Cornwall, and was lucky to sit in on two curator talks about local artist Robert Lanyon. Here’s one of his pieces.
Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon
Practical Information for Tate St. Ives
Tate St. Ives is open daily from 10 am to 4:20 pm. The admission currently costs £13.50 and visitors aged under 18 is admitted free. The website has the latest rates.
Entry to the Barbara Hepworth Museum
A few minutes’ walk from the tate St. Ives is the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden. This place is well worth a visit if you’re a fan of world renowned sculptor Barbara Hepworth. Here’s a link to tickets to the site.
Tregenna Castle Resort: Why not stay in a castle! This place is about a kilometer from St. Ives and overlooks the Cornish coast. It even has a heated indoor swimming pool and an outdoor seasonal heated swimming pool.
Sightseeing Tips
I highly recommend purchasing tickets ahead of time when you’re traveling in Europe. Major art museums are increasingly crowded, with long lines that sap your sightseeing energy. Who can enjoy art after standing for an hour under the hot sun waiting to buy tickets?
Purchase your tickets well in advance of your visit or even the night before from your hotel room. Then enjoy a leisurely breakfast before strolling straight into the museum past the long lines of tourists who did not book ahead.
You’ll be sighing in front of some of the world’s great masterpieces in no time!
I prefer to use just a few websites to book all my tickets so I can easily keep track of which venue I’m seeing on which day. You can also book tickets directly with most of the venues.
Have you visited any of these modern art museums in Europe? What are your suggestions and recommendations for fellow artsy travelers? Please share them in the Comments below.
Looking for more great art? Here are posts on a few more of my favorite art museums in Europe:
