Everyone I know who has walked the Camino of Santiago (the Way) to Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain raves about the experience.
My friend and guest poster Elizabeth Petrie is no exception. She and her friend, Cheri, walked the Camino from Pamplona to Burgos and from Sarria to Santiago, with train travel between Burgos, León, and Sarria.
Elizabeth shares her experiences and recommendations in three posts on Artsy Traveler. In this post, learn her top tips for enjoying the Camino of Santiago. To find out how Elizabeth and Cheri organized their walk, read A Camino Journal: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela. Elizabeth’s recommendations for Burgos and León are included in Exploring Burgos and León.
Guest Poster Elizabeth Petrie
Retirement brings new opportunities, and one of my most cherished is having the chance to travel. New places, unique experiences, wonderful memories—what could be more enticing?
For a long time, walking across northern Spain on the Camino has topped my “bucket list.” My friend, Cheri, shared the same interest, so we decided to make plans to walk the Camino together.
Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago
Here are tips for helping you plan an awesome experience on the Camino of Santiago.
Prepare for the Camino of Santiago
Distance walking was new to me, so I started training about a year before leaving for Spain. Cheri and I began with modest treks of six to eight kilometers twice a week and worked up to walks of ten to twelve kilometers. By the time we left for Spain, we could comfortably walk about fourteen kilometers with our backpacks partially full.
Plan Your Itinerary
The Camino of Santiago extends across several countries and hundreds of kilometers. Start in France on the Camino Francés or complete all or a portion of the Camino del Norte like we did.
We put together an itinerary that included stays in four-star hotels in the cities we’d pass through: Pamplona, Burgos, León, and our final destination, Santiago de Compostela. We knew we’d appreciate a bit of luxury after days of slogging along and nights spent in the dormitory-like albergues.
An albergue is a hostel that provides accommodation only for pilgrims walking the Camino of Santiago. To stay in an albergue, you need to have a Pilgrims Passport.
Obtain a Pilgrims Passport
The Pilgrims Passport contains spaces for the sellos (stamps) that prove you’ve walked that day and are entitled to stay in one of the state-run albergues.
If you start the Camino from St. Jean in France or from Pamplona, like we did, you need to get one stamp per day. If you walk only the last 100 kilometers from Sarria, you need to get two stamps each day.
So long as you have sufficient stamps and you state at the Pilgrims Office in Santiago de Compostela that you’ve completed the Camino for religious or spiritual reasons, you’ll receive the Compostela at the end of the journey in Santiago.
If you state other reasons for completing the Camino, you receive a different certificate to commemorate your journey.
You can also get a passport at some albergues and pilgrims’ offices along the Way.
However, to save time, I recommend you obtain your Pilgrims Passport before you leave. To do so, connect with the Pilgrims’ Association in your home country.
For other organizations, search online for Pilgrims’ Association and the name of your country.
Choose When to Go
Consider walking the Camino in May or September. The weather from June to August is too hot, the hotel prices are higher, and the Way is much more crowded.
We found that May was perfect with regard to both the weather and the crowds (or lack of!). While you definitely won’t run into crowds in the winter months, be aware that many of the smaller albergues are closed from mid-October to mid-April.
Purchase a Guidebook
I recommend A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago (Camino Francés): St. Jean – Roncesvalles – Santiago by John Brierley. The book includes all the information you’ll need: route and town maps, and the location of coffee shops, restaurants, and albergues. The book also lists telephone numbers of the albergues so that you can book ahead.
Plan Your Daily Walk Duration
Plan to walk no more than 15 to 18 kilometers in a day (about five hours), depending on the terrain.
This distance is long enough to give you a reasonable goal, time to stop for sightseeing and meals, and the best chance of finding accommodations. Also, we found that blisters started forming if we attempted to walk more than 22 kilometers in one day.
On most days, we left the albergue around 8 am and arrived at our next albergue in the mid-afternoon. The earlier you get to the albergue you plan to stay in, the better your chances of finding accommodations. Many albergues do not take reservations, although sometimes you can speak with the hospitalero and ask them to call ahead for you.
Book Accommodations for the Final 100 Kilometers
While you do not need to book accommodations along the early stretches of the Way (and often you cannot), you should book places to stay along the last 100 kilometers.
The Way becomes increasingly crowded the closer you get to Santiago. We used booking.com to book small hotels along the last stretch of the Way and were glad we did. Each place we booked was clean and conveniently located.
Here are some tips for helping you enjoy your time on the Camino.
Use the Send-Ahead Pack Service
Send your main pack ahead and hike with just a day pack. The send-ahead service was well worth the few extra euros (usually €3 to €5 per pack). You can send your pack from any Camino albergue in the morning to the albergue at your next stopping point. Call ahead to make sure the albergue you plan on staying at has available beds and will be open when the van arrives with your pack.
Take a Day Pack
Pack the following items in your day pack:
A full first-aid pack, complete with Compeed*and blister treatment, a needle and cotton thread, antibiotic ointment, Band-Aids, antiseptic spray, antihistamines, Afterbite, an elastic bandage, and sunscreen. You’ll find plenty of pharmacies along the Way in case you run out of anything.
A liter of water. If you sweat a lot, you will occasionally need to supplement your water with a local version of Gatorade.
A change of socks. Sweaty socks can bring on blisters.
A change of shirt and rain gear if rain threatens.
Fresh or dried fruit, nuts, protein, etc. Depending on your route for the day, you’ll usually find small coffee bars and restaurants along the Way where you can purchase lunch.
Your passport, credit cards, and other essential documents. Also, carry a day’s worth of currency and never flash around large amounts of cash.
*Compeed is a miracle blister treatment available in Spanish farmacias.
I suggest stocking up on Compeed before you leave by buying it online. As soon as you feel a friction blister coming on, put the clear plastic Compeed over it and leave it on. You’ll never have another blister!
Limit Technology
On the Way, consider forgoing technology as much as possible. If you take a SmartPhone to check weather reports and make hotel bookings, particularly in the last 100 kilometers, purchase a cell phone package for Europe from your service provider or pick up a SIM card at a local provider such as Vodafone or Orange.
Use your phone to take pictures instead of carrying a heavy, expensive camera. Also, I suggest not wearing earbuds while you’re walking or you’ll miss the bird song and conversation.
One of my lasting memories on the Way is the sound of an amazing variety of bird songs.
Enjoy the Pilgrim’s Dinner
Have the pilgrim’s dinner when it’s offered at the albergues. You’ll get a cheap and tasty meal that includes soup or salad, a fish or pork entrée, dessert, and a glass of local wine. The local soups are delicious and filling.
Use Other Transportation as Needed
Consider occasionally taking a taxi or public transit when you get tired rather than risking injury. Walking the Camino in short stages will help conserve your energy.
Take Good Footwear
Wear hiking boots that are well broken in. Also, pack a pair of lighter shoes, such as Teva sandals, to occasionally give your feet a rest. Wear flip flops in the shower and around the albergue at the end of the day.
Some markers are decorated imaginatively.
Enjoy Meeting New People on the Camino
A highlight of walking the Way is meeting many wonderful and interesting people. People in the albergues and elsewhere along the Camino could not do enough for us. We always left our packs closed, and they were never disturbed, even when we left them in dormitories to go sightseeing.
Slow Down
My best advice for walking the Camino is to slow down and savor the experience. In other words, stop and smell the roses!
Check out as many churches, shrines, historical sites, and civic plazas as you can. You’ll be amazed at the unexpected beauty and fascinating art and architecture.
Sign on the Camino de Santiago
Northern Spain has been home to human beings for tens of thousands of years, from Neanderthal times to the present. You can hardly take a step without passing a fascinating site of historical significance.
For example, on some sections of the Way, you’ll be following, if not actually walking on, the original Roman roads. And in some of the smaller villages where the Spanish Civil War was fought in the 1930s, you’ll still see bullet holes in the walls of old barns and houses.
Suggested Itinerary
For a detailed breakdown of our itinerary that started in Pamplona, Spain and included stops in Burgos and León,along with a few train journeys, see the post A Camino Journey: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela.
I can’t imagine how our trip could have been any better. We enjoyed pretty much perfect weather, and we both kept well and healthy. In addition, we met interesting people, enjoyed delicious and reasonably-priced meals, and soaked up some of the rich history and culture of Navarra, La Rioja, and Galicia.
We also appreciated the spiritual nature of our journey to Santiago, taking time every day to reflect with humble gratitude upon our many blessings. Our trip was a pilgrimage in many senses of the word.
Is walking the Camino (walking the way) across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela on your travel wish list? Artsy Travelers who Walk the Way will view countless treasures, including the portrait of Mary Magdalene by Leonardo da Vinci in Burgos, tiny medieval churches steeped in history, and soaring architectural wonders, such as the cathedral at León.
I haven’t walked the Way, but I’m considering it! Fortunately, Elizabeth Petrie, my friend and an Artsy Traveler guest poster, walked the Camino with her friend, Cheri, and shares her experiences and insights.
Overview of Walking the Way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela Camino Route
Elizabeth and Cheri walked first from Pamplona to Burgos. After a few days sightseeing in Burgos, they took the train to León and then to Lugos. From Lugos, they rejoined the Way at Sarria and walked the last 120 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela.
Elizabeth shares her experiences and recommendations in three posts on Artsy Traveler.
Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago
Elizabeth’s lively description of her journey is excerpted from the journal she kept while walking the Way between May 3 and June 1, 2017.
Part 1: Walking the Camino from Pamplona to Burgos
Welcome to Pamplona
The capital of Navarra, Pamplona charms us with its pretty streets, attractive green spaces, and many historical buildings. From our window at the NH Pamplona Hotel, we enjoy a southeast view of a nearby quarry that glows in the evening sun.
A short stroll along the main boulevard brings us to La Cittadella, an old, star-shaped fortress with huge, thick walls. The fortress is situated in a large park through which the Camino passes.
On the day we start our Camino journey, we’ll only need to walk a short distance from our hotel to pick up the trail.
What to See in Pamplona
The central Plaza del Castillo is an attractive public square surrounded by beautiful old buildings. Pamplona is full of monuments, typical in a country with thousands of years of history. All the statues and monuments are well signed and beautifully maintained.
Especially interesting is the large bronze statue depicting the famous “running of the bulls” (elencierro de toros). The portrayal of some unfortunates being trampled or gored by the bulls looks very realistic. There’s not enough money in the world to convince me to do it, which is just as well since women typically don’t participate.
Running of the Bulls Monument in Pamplona, Spain
Walking Tour of Pamplona
Consider taking a free walking tour with Free Walking Tour Pamplona. You’ll explore the old town and visit the Gothic Cathedral of Santa Maria, the Plaza del Castillo, and the impressive fortifications that once protected the city. There’s a lot to see in Pamplona!
We’re On Our Way!
At the pilgrims’ albergue in front of the Gothic cathedral, we get our first stamp (estampilla) in our pilgrims’ passports (pasaportes de peregrinos).
We have officially begun walking the way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela!
Day 1: Walking the Way from Pamplona to Puente la Reina: 27 kilometers
After three nights in lovely Pamplona, we’re feeling well rested and ready to begin walking the way on our first stretch of the Camino.
Starting Out
As the sun rises in a clear blue sky, we walk through the beautiful grounds of the Universidad de Navarra and out into lovely rolling countryside. Wild poppies are scattered among fields of newly planted crops. We hear birds singing in the fields and hedgerows.
Setting off on the Way, west of Pamplona
We stop to get a stamp at a private albergue next to the 12th-century Iglesia de San Miguel. The fortified tower of the church was part of the Monasterio de los Hospitalarios de San Juan de Jerusalén.
The knights of the Hospitallers eventually became the Knights of St. John of Malta from which we get the St. John Ambulance service today.
Our First Steep Section
The Alto del Perdón—the first steep section we encounter on the trail—is described in our guidebook as “not as difficult as you will have heard” and is estimated to take “only a half-hour”.
Wrong on both counts!
The trail climbs pretty much straight up—the hardest ascent along the whole Camino. Whenever we start feeling weary, we chant “Alto del Perdón, Alto del Perdón! Nothing is as hard as Alto del Perdón” in rhythm with our steps.
Eventually, we make it to the top where the views are spectacular. Both nearby and in the distance we see one of the many wind farms that take advantage of the strong breezes coming from the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Biscay.
Modern metal cut-outs describe the various methods that pilgrims used over the centuries to travel the Camino. One of the inscriptions reads, “where the road of the winds crosses the road of the stars.”
Cut-outs and view at the summit of the Alto del Perdón
Albergue de Santiago Apóstel in Puente la Reina
At our first albergue, we’re assigned two upper bunks (no ladders!) in a four-bunk room. After a hot shower, we enjoy a pilgrim’s dinner of salad, fish, water, and yogurt, all for just €20, including accommodation.
We’re gratified to have virtually no injuries or aches other than a couple of small blisters. I decide to alternate boots with shoes to avoid putting too much pressure on any one spot on my feet.
Bridge leading into Puente la Reina
Day 2: Puente la Reina to Ayeguí: 20 kilometers
The next morning, the owner kindly calls ahead to book beds at the albergue in Ayeguí. He also confirms transportation of our packs for only €5 each. Normally, albergues do not take advance reservations. I wonder whether the fact that I speak Spanish helped!
The second day of walking the way is much easier than the first, even with a few strenuous uphill stretches. (Altos del Perdón, Altos del Perdón…). The countryside continues to amaze us with its many crops, flowers, and birdsong. Small lizards sun themselves on the stone walls that mark the route.
Lorca
We stop for coffee in Lorca, a medieval hill town with a wonderful view of the surrounding valley. The route out of Lorca drops very steeply down what is little more than a slippery, rocky gully. After a few more hours of walking, I feel a blister starting on my heel. We decide to take a taxi the rest of the way to Ayeguí.
I recommend making occasional use of taxis and public transport to save your feet. A small blister can become a large one very quickly and make walking agony.
Day 3: Ayeguí to Torres del Río: 27 kilometers
Our third day walking the way is a long one! We take a break in Irache, where a fountain with a dual spigot offers both water and wine. We fill our water bottles from one and take a sip from the other.
The sign on the fountain reads Pilgrim! If you wish to arrive in Santiago full of strength and vigour, just take a drop of this great wine and jump for joy. Another sign notes We invite you to enjoy in moderation; if you wish to take some wine along, you will have to buy it!
The Camino winds past numerous churches and historical buildings—too many to count and, unfortunately, too many to visit. Many are Romanesque in style, reminding us again of the extent of the Roman Empire at its height.
Sometimes, we walk at the side of the local highway and at other times on gravel paths dating from ancient times. The Way between Villamayor de Monjardín and Los Arcos typifies the Camino. It’s a long, narrow road stretching into the distance between open fields, with very little shade and no place to fill our water bottles.
Los Arcos
Arriving in Los Arcos is a relief for our feet and our thirsty throats. It’s a beautiful old town that has been inhabited since Roman times. The Iglesia de Santa María has a mixture of architectural styles (Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque), and the series of arches along the walls of the original cloisters gives the town its name.
Los Arcos is a popular stopping point, but we decide to continue another six kilometers to Torres del Río. Hmm…perhaps not the best idea, as it turns out! The weather has warmed considerably, and there’s not a breath of wind. We sing, make lists of places we’d like to go someday, and generally distract ourselves from the trudge.
Some of the markers along the Way have been decorated by passing pilgrims
Finally, we arrive at the delightful little town of Sansol and take a taxi to Albergue La Pata de Oca at Torres del Río. What a treat! The main building is hundreds of years old, with thick stone walls and solid beams in the ceilings, all covered with plaster.
Our private room is upstairs under the rafters. The ceiling slopes so much that we have to stoop to open the window. The patio is lovely, with lots of flower pots filled with bright red geraniums.
We enjoy a delicious dinner of bean and chorizo soup, chicken, flan, and wine. After a long, hot day, we collapse into bed about 9:15.
Day 4: Torres del Río to Ventosa: 4 kilometers
We decide to take it easy after yesterday’s long walk and opt for a later start and a shorter walk with a taxi ride in between.
While relaxing over breakfast on the terrace, we meet Ian from Ireland. He tells us that he’s a former addict who has been clean for 26 years and has adopted his nephews (one of whom is on the autism spectrum) after the death of their parents.
Encounters with people like Ian and others from all over the world and with a variety of backgrounds is one of the most enjoyable aspects of our journey.
Before starting our walk, we visit the Romanesque Church of the Holy Sepulchre across the street from the albergue. Dating from the 12th century, the small, octagon-shaped church was founded by the Knights Templar during the time of the Crusades.
The dome’s ribbing forms the outline of an eight-sided star, typical of Moorish Spain. The 13th-century crucifix depicts Christ’s feet separately rather than crossed one over the other as is typical.
Day 5: Logroño to Ventosa: 21 kilometers
We stop for lunch in Navarrete, an attractive hill town with narrow cobblestoned streets leading to the town plaza. A small church–La Iglesia de la Asunción–doesn’t look particularly special from the outside. We almost don’t go in. Luckily, we did and found one of the most amazing Baroque retablos (altarpieces) in all of Spain.
Our albergue in the tiny village of Ventosa has a typical set-up, with ten bunks to the room, plenty of hot water and many modern conveniences. Again, our pilgrims’ meal is delicious and very reasonably priced. For €10, we dine on paella with chorizo along with salad and a beer.
Day 6: Ventosa to Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada: 5 kilometers
Cheri’s blister and ankle are acting up, so we take a taxi and then a local bus to Santo Domingo where we stop for the night.
A rooster motif is everywhere in Santo Domingo, reflecting the legend of how a young man had been wrongly accused and executed for theft.
One version recounts that his parents had seen a vision of St. Dominic holding their son up alive. When they rushed to the magistrate to report this miracle, the judge laughed and said that the boy was as dead as the rooster and chicken on his plate. At that, the birds came alive and fluttered about the room, thereby “proving” that the young man was innocent.
To this day, a pen inside the cathedral holds a rooster and a hen (different ones every two weeks). It’s a sign of good luck if you hear the rooster crow.
Day 7: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado: 21 kilometers
On a day of mixed sun and cloud, we pass through the town of Viloria de Rioja, the birthplace of St. Dominic and from there into the province of Castilla y León.
At the albergue in the evening, we enjoy our €10 pilgrims’ dinner of two courses and wine and chat with Marcelo from Argentina and David from San Sebastián. Our pleasant conversation covers everything from politics, to films, to the various people we’ve met on the Way, to our common love of travel and adventure.
Day 8: Belorado to Cardeñuelo Río Pico: 9 kilometers
We carry our big packs today and find that after more than a week of walking the way on the Camino, we’re getting stronger.
The Albergue Santa Fe in Cardiñuela where we stop for the night has just one double room left, complete with a private bath, towels, soap and shower gel, and a television. With the pilgrims’ dinner included, the cost is about €55 each—another example of the excellent travel bargains to be found on the Camino.
Day 9: Cardeñuela Río Pico to Burgos: 17 kilometers
A strong, cool breeze in the morning makes for good walking weather. As we approach Burgos, we pass through several prosperous-looking neighbourhoods which likely are bedroom communities of the city itself.
The Camino enters Burgos via a pretty walk along the river. When we finally reach the center of town, we take a taxi to the AC Hotel which is perfectly situated about two blocks from the central plaza and the cathedral.
We enjoy tapas at one of the outdoor cafés in the colonnaded central plaza.
Part Two: Walking the Way from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela
Days 10 to 14: For the next several days, Elizabeth and Cheri tour Burgos and then León. Read Elizabeth’s suggestions about what to see there in the post Exploring Burgos and León.
Day 15: Samos to Sarria: 21 kilometers
After several days exploring Burgos, León , and Lugos (see Exploring Burgos and León ), we take the train to Sarria, drop off our packs at the albergue La Casona de Sarria and then take a taxi to Samos to explore the Benedictine Monastery.
Wow! The Benedictine monastery at Samos is stunning, with some sections dating back to the 6th century. Currently, only eight monks and two novices are in residence, with some of the original monks’ cells now serving as simple accommodations for people participating in organized religious retreats.
Benedictine monastery of San Julian de Samos located in Samos, Lugo, Galicia
The interior cloister at the monastery is the largest in Spain, and some of the walls display original frescoes.
Back on the Camino: Samos to Sarria
After a quick lunch, we resume walking after our days off for sightseeing in Burgos, León , and Lugo. We set off back to Sarria, a walk of about twelve kilometers and one of the most beautiful stages of our journey.
The route starts behind the monastery, winds past the kitchen gardens and along cool shaded paths alongside a small river, with some ascents and some descents but few signs of modern habitation. We pass a couple of 12th-century wayside chapels, small abandoned houses, wooden bridges, and old slate drystone walls.
You can almost imagine yourself a thousand miles from any center of population and thousands of years back in time. One farmer is repairing his drystone slate wall and lets us fill our water bottles from his well. We stop a bit farther on for a cold drink in a typical taberna do Camino.
Day 16: Sarria to Portomarín: 24 kilometers
We start our day by crossing the old Roman bridge just down from the albergue. The stela marker informs us that we are 113 kilometers from Santiago.
At this point of our walk, we’re encountering many more people on the Camino, particularly Europeans taking a week to do the minimum journey (100 kilometers). To receive the completion compostela in Santiago, pilgrims must present their passports bearing at least two stamps per day for the final 100 kilometers.
As we’ve come to expect, the countryside is absolutely beautiful, with rolling hills, manageable ascents, and plenty of lush vegetation providing shade in the increasingly hot weather. This region is quite well watered by rain, and there are lots more dairy cattle and other livestock grazing in green pastures.
Countryside along the Way in Galicia
At one short rest stop, we listen to a piper in Galician dress—a reminder of the strong Celtic influence in this part of Spain. Much of the day’s route follows the old Roman road, with some of the original Roman stone walls still marking out different pastures.
A very old church marks the beginning of the final 100 kilometers to Santiago.
Day 17: Portomarín to Palas de Rei: 26 kilometers
Today’s route includes ups and downs through rolling and beautiful countryside. We’re starting to become blasé about the medieval churches. Ho hum, 14th century.
We find a fair bit of traffic along the Camino and several small tour groups.
Part of the Camino passes through thick stands of eucalyptus trees, originally imported from Australia. The scent of the leaves that have fallen to the ground and crushed by passing feet is delightful.
Day 18: Palas de Rei to Melide to Arzúa: 17 kilometers
Despite the heat, we enjoy a good night’s sleep followed by an excellent breakfast.
In a small chapel along the route, I’m fascinated by a poster of a stunning Madonna and Child (Mater Divinae Providentiae) painted by Scipione Pulzone da Gaeta in the mid-16th century.
I’ve never seen a Madonna which so tenderly expresses the love of mother for child. How different from the usual dreamy, remote images of Mary and the baby Jesus. This one is all about maternal love and one of the loveliest I’ve ever seen. I’ve never heard of this artist, and I plan to learn more about him.
The Camino from Melide to Arzúa is not a difficult stage, but it does have ascents and descents virtually the entire way. Fortunately, the many groves of fragrant conifers and eucalyptus trees along the path are very pleasant and make the steeper inclines much more manageable. The official markers remind us that we’re getting closer to our final destination.
Later this afternoon, I suffer the only mishap of the entire trip when I stumble into a patch of nettles. Ouch! But Cheri quickly pulls out the antihistamine tablets and After Bite lotion, and, almost immediately, the rash subsides and the itch disappears.
Day 19: Arzúa to Pedrouzo: 22 kilometers
Our water and energy drinks at the ready, we set off early before the heat sets in and make pretty good time, even on the up and down stretches. The crowds are certainly growing.
At one stop, we purchase coffee, bananas, and small concha patches sold on the honor system/por donativo. Next to the building is a “wall of wisdom” (muro de la sabiduría) containing interesting quotes and reflections on travel. I’m sure the quotes keep conversation going among the pilgrims as they near the end of a long journey.
An interesting feature of the places we pass are the corn cribs—large covered storage areas on stilts. The walls are perforated to allow air circulation but not rodents, and their height prevents livestock from investigating too closely and knocking them over.
Day 20: Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela: 22 kilometers
Our last day of walking the Camino!
We’re up and away before sunrise on what promises to be another warm day. The crowds have become thick, and we sometimes have to jostle for room to manoeuvre around groups.
Approaching Santiago de Compostela, the Camino skirts the northern end of the airport, which is clean and modern. We encounter a couple more steep spots, and then, suddenly, we’ve reached the official city limits of Santiago.
To enter the city proper, we cross a rickety plank footbridge into a semi-residential area and up into the original medieval town. We descend a flight of stairs, walk through a large portal set into very thick stone walls, and enter the central plaza of Santiago de Compostela.
The scaffold-covered cathedral looms into the rapidly clouding sky. We’ve made it!
We head to the new tourist center to get our official completion credential. There’s a long queue, and for a while we wait outside in the patio area. Almost immediately after we enter the building, a big thunderstorm breaks, rain teeming down on the poor folks still out walking on the Camino or waiting outside to get their final stamp.
Arrival in Santiago de Compostela
We celebrate our achievement with an empanada and beer in the restaurant of the Santiago Parador—a former hospital founded by Ferdinand and Isabella in the 1490s.
We enjoy a deep, restful sleep, despite the thunderstorms. By mid-morning, the weather has cleared, and we return to the cathedral and tour the adjacent museum, timing it so that we can enter the cathedral itself from the cloister.
Visit to the Cathedral of Santiago
The entrance to the cathedral closes at 11:45 in preparation for the Pilgrims’ Mass, and by 11:15, it’s already filling up. We snag a spot on a small ledge at the base of one of the huge pillars near the back and have a reasonably good view.
The Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela
The service starts, and the nun leading the chants and responses has the most glorious voice. We recognize many of the service prayers, even though they are in Spanish: the collect, the Lord’s Prayer, the reading from the Old and New Testaments (Corinthians and John), the general confession, and so on.
The highlight of the service, and the reason that many people are there, is the swinging of the enormous censer across the transept. At least five or six deacons or lay brothers manoeuvre it into place and set it swinging, and the sweep of its pendulum action gets higher and higher. Ropes and pulleys are affixed to the ceiling, and the angle of the swing is maybe 120° or more.
After the service, people line up behind the main altar to hug a plaster statue of St. James. Meanwhile, there are practically no people lined up to descend to the crypt to see St. James’ ossuary, an amazing chest of embossed silver. If the bones of the saint are really contained within, it’s interesting to think that here was someone who actually knew Christ.
Back at the hotel after a bit of shopping, we calculate the distance we’ve walked. From our first day of walking on May 6 to our final day in Santiago de Compostela on May 26, we logged 338 kilometers!
Conclusion
Would I do the Camino again? Absolutely! Do I recommend it to anyone who is reasonably fit and looking for an adventure? Of course!
Something magical happens when you slow down to tread in the footsteps of the thousands of pilgrims who have walked the Way.
You hear birdsong, feel the sun warm your face, view stunning landscapes steeped in history, enjoy wonderful food, and meet people from all over the world.
Northern Spain stretches from the Atlantic to the Pyrenees, a distance of almost 700 kilometers. This area of Spain boasts extraordinary scenery and something else you won’t see much of in the rest of Spain: rain.
Galicia in the northwest corner of Spain is green and gorgeous, with a culture that owes more to its Celtic neighbors in Brittany and Cornwall than to the rest of Iberia.
You’ll find a lot to enjoy in northern Spain—historic Santiago de Compostela, the Picos de Europa mountains, pinchos (pintxos) in San Sebastian, and the Guggenheim Bilbao, one of Europe’s top modern art museums.
Devote at least a week to this area of Spain. To help you plan your tour of northern Spain, I’ve compiled a ten-day itinerary that starts in Santiago de Compostela and ends in San Sebastian.
Orientation to Northern Spain
The map below includes the places mentioned in this post. Click a number to find out more information.
My itinerary presumes you’re driving. It’s possible to visit this area by train, but if you rent a car you can explore more of this fascinating and beautiful region, particularly the Picos de Europa.
Consider flying to Santiago de Compostela and touring the city for a few days before picking up your car and heading east. Drop it off in Bilbao and take a train to San Sebastian, or drive all the way to France and drop the car off there. Bordeaux is a convenient choice.
I suggest spending two days and three nights in Santiago de Compostela, one night on the north coast, three nights in or near Llanes to explore the Picos de Europa, one night in Santillana del Mar, one night in Bilbao, and one night in San Sebastian.
That’s a lot of one-night stands, so if you prefer and have the time, add more two-night stays. There’s a great deal to see in northern Spain!
Days 1 to 3: Santiago de Compostela
We spent a week in Santiago de Compostela a few years ago when Gregg had a major exhibition at the Granell Museum. The city of 100,000 people is a compact and lovely place with wonderful restaurants and parks and an atmospheric old town.
One of my favorite things to do was hanging out in the Praza do Obradoiro in front of the cathedral to watch Camino pilgrims enter the plaza. Santiago de Compostela, while not the actual end of the Camino de Santiago, is commonly the place most pilgrims stop.
The Cathedral at Santiago as seen from the Praza do Obradoiro
It was moving to see the pilgrims enter the plaza. Some were limping after weeks on the road, and most carried their pilgrim’s staff topped with a distinctive scallop shell similar to the shells that mark the Camino route. I saw a lot of tears and hugs and selfies.
Catedral de Santiago de Compostela
Pilgrims crowd into the cathedral (#1) where the remains of Saint James are allegedly buried. The cathedral is a jumble of architectural styles— Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque. A highlight inside the west entrance is the Pórtico de la Gloria, containing 200 Romanesque sculptures dating from the late 12th century.
Truth be told, I found the cathedral dark and overcrowded, but there’s no denying the atmosphere of piety, particularly from the pilgrims who walked the Camino for religious reasons.
The Old Town
Wander the granite streets of the old town of Santiago, enjoying the arches, squares, and monuments that contributed to the city’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. You’ll find plenty of good shopping, particularly for jewelry. The atmosphere is laid-back and friendly, with throngs of students, pilgrims, tourists, and locals.
A street in the Old Town in Santiago de Compostela
Parks and Museums
Alameda Park (#2) is a large green space, wonderful to chill out in away from the crowds in the Praza do Obradoiro. You also get a marvelous view of the cathedral from the park.
When Gregg was in Santiago on a solo trip, he came across a large group of people in traditional costumes playing instruments and dancing in San Domingos de Bonaval Park. Watch his video on YouTube. Notice how Celtic the music sounds with the drums and bagpipes—completely different from the flamenco rhythms in the south.
In Bonaval, you’ll also find the Galician Contemporary Art Centre and the Museum of the Galician People (Museo de Pobo Galego).
In Santiago de Compostela, you’ll notice that you’re in Galicia first, Spain second. Local people speak Galician and are proud of their heritage. You’ll be understood in Spanish, and likely in English, in restaurants and hotels.
On the Pazo de Bendaña, not far from the cathedral, is the Granell Museum, housed in a beautiful old Baroque building. If you’re a fan of Surrealism, check out this museum that includes an extensive collection of work by Eugenio Granell and other artists linked to Surrealism, including Marcel Duchamp, Max Ernst, Joan Miró, and Roberto Matta.
Dining in Santiago de Compostela
With so many students, tourists and pilgrims swelling its population
every year, Santiago de Compostela has become known for its excellent
restaurants. We enjoyed several memorable meals during our week-long visit.
Check restaurant apps and reviews and make reservations.
Day 4: North Coast
Head north from Santiago de Compostela to the coast then meander eastwards into Asturias, stopping at one of the many beachside towns. Magnificent rock formations are a draw at Playa Las Catedrales (#3), located near Ribadeo on the north coast.
Playa Las Catedrales beach near Ribadeo, Galicia of Lugo, Spai
Slow down and get off the main roads. Oviedo, the capital of Asturias, is a possible stopping place for the night. The Fine Arts Museum of Asturias looks intriguing.
Days 4 to 5: Llanes and the Picos de Europa
You’ll encounter rugged mountain vistas as you continue east toward the Picos de Europa. The jagged peaks of Picos de Europa (#4) National Park, Spain’s first national park, are nicknamed “Spain’s Dolomites.”
The mountains straddle southeast Asturias, southwest Cantabria, and northern Castilla y León. If you’re a hiker, you’ll want to spend a few days here.
One option is to home-base in the charming coastal town of Llanes (pronounced YAH-ness).
We discovered Llanes (#5) by accident on our drive across northern Spain. For once, I hadn’t booked a hotel, deciding that we’d just stop driving when we got tired and hope for the best. I don’t recommend that approach, particularly in the busy summer months, but sometimes it’s fun to live dangerously!
I saw the sign for Llanes, figured it was as good a place as any, and directed Gregg to the old town.
What a fortuitous decision! The little seaside town of Llanes turned out to be delightful, with beautiful buildings covered in fine woodwork and small windows. An inland waterway lined on both sides with cafés runs through the town center. Pull up a chair in one of the cafés to enjoy some tapas and beer, and watch the boats go by.
Traditional houses in Llanes, Asturias, Spain.
Take a walk out to the breakwater. An artist has painted the huge concrete blocks that protect the town from high tides with all sorts of crazy patterns.
Painted cement blocks on a jetty in Llanes, Spain
Watch the sun set over the Atlantic and prepare to be enchanted.
Eat dinner at an outdoor café in the network of tiny lanes in the old town. Two three-course meals and several glasses of red wine cost us just €10. Now, that’s a bargain!
The waiter insisted on giving us several of his cards so we could tell everyone we met about his restaurant. We wandered back through picturesque squares to our hotel, situated in a renovated convent.
In the middle of the night, I woke up, terrified that something—someone—was in the room. Perhaps a nun, long dead, was not happy to find me sleeping in a room that had once been her cell. I was so frightened that I had to wake up Gregg!
Is it likely that thousands of years of history—much of it violent—has produced its share of discontented ghosts?
Maybe.
Day 6: Santillana del
Mar
The Caves of Altamira are located close to Santillana del Mar (#6). Seventeen caves are decorated with art of the Paleolithic age dating from 35,000 to 11,000 BC. Because of their deep galleries, isolated from external climatic influences, these caves are particularly well preserved. You can visit the replica caves. Check out the official website.
Bilbao
The drive from Santillana del Mar along the coast to Bilbao (#7) is gorgeous. Get off the highway and explore some of the windswept, rock-choked coves. This part of northern Spain is spectacular.
Bilbao is a large port city with a tangle of highways leading to the Nervión River and the Guggenheim. Use your GPS to navigate into the city, and avoid hotels in the old town. We chose the Hotel Melià, a modern hotel on the river, which was easy to find and included a large parking garage.
The street signs written in the Euskara language are daunting and largely unpronounceable, at least for foreign tourists like us! Many of the streets have names consisting of 20 letters, most of which are X’s and Z’s. When you’re in Basque country, you may forget you’re still in Spain.
Fortunately, you’ll easily get by in Spanish and English.
The big attraction in Bilbao is the Guggenheim Museum (#8), one of the world’s top modern art museums. I love that the city of Bilbao decided to revitalize itself and attract tourist euros by building a world-class art museum. That choice showed vision along with a heartening belief in the importance of art and culture.
Exterior of Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, Basque, Spain
We chose one of the ultra-modern hotels in an ultra-modern area of Bilbao about a ten-minute stroll along the river from the Guggenheim. Read my suggestions for hotels in Bilbao in Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.
Likely your first view of the
Guggenheim will be of Puppy, the colossal topiary of a West Highland
White Terrier that stands guard in front of the museum. With its variegated
coat of flowers that changes with the season, Puppy is remarkably
photogenic.
Puppy at night in front of the Guggenheim Bilbao
After you’ve satiated your thirst for Puppy pics, walk around the building to admire the silvery-gold slabs of hammered, stamped steel of Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim and to view more of the modern sculptures.
You’ll see Anish Kapoor’s astonishing sculpture of huge silver orbs stacked almost as high as the roof of the museum and facing the river. The piece is perfectly situated to catch the sun, turning the entire column of orbs into one pulsing, glistening beacon. Another marvelous sculpture is Maman by Louise Bourgeois—a massive spider and not recommended for arachnophobes.
Once you’ve had your fill of the
exterior, enter the Guggenheim and get your bearings. See what the special
exhibition is, study the maps or download the app, and plan your route.
A highlight is the enormous sculpture by Richard Serra on the ground floor. The work consists of six steel slabs bent and curled in various ways that invite you into their depths to wander until you feel dizzy. We went into two of the sculptures, and that was enough! The effect is startling, and a little goes a long way.
When we visited, we saw a stylishly
curated exhibition of new paintings and digital works by David Hockney.
Following your visit to the Guggenheim, stroll across the bridge to the old town to spend your evening enjoying tapas and drinks. On your way back, you’ll see the Guggenheim and Puppy evocatively floodlit.
San Sebastian
If you’re driving to San Sebastian—called Donostia (#9) by the Basques—your first view may be nondescript suburbs miles away from the famous sweep of beach. Persevere until you reach the water and the old town.
Our hotel was situated at the top of Mount Urgull, one of two mountains that flank San Sebastian. Here’s the stunning view of San Sebastian from near our hotel.
Overview of the Bay of San Sebastian, Spain
Traffic in
San Sebastian was remarkably sedate when we were there. Head for one of the big
parking lots in the commercial center and then explore San Sebastian on foot.
San Sebastian consists of three main areas – the long sweep of beach bristling with frolicking holiday-makers, the modern town built on an easy-to-navigate grid system, and the old town with its narrow streets and intriguing aromas.
Spend your evening in San Sebastian bar-hopping in the old town to sample as many pinchos (pintxos) as possible.
Squeeze
into a bar (they’re all crowded!), grab a plate, select a few cold pinchos from
the platters lined up on the bar (so many varieties to choose from!), grab a
glass of local wine, eat standing up amid the crowds, then saunter off to
another place.
Spanish tapas called pintxos of the Basque country served on a bar counter in a restaurant in San Sebastian, Spain
Each
pincho is a mini work of art. If you don’t see something you like on the cold
platters, order hot pinchos listed on chalkboards behind the bar.
The
incredibly efficient servers keep track of what you’ve eaten by the number of
toothpicks left on your plate. You also crumple up your used napkins and throw
them on the floor—a practice that takes some getting used to!
Go from bar to bar sampling two or three pinchos at each, along with a glass of wine. Prices are amazingly reasonable. Our evening of pincho-eating and wine-guzzling cost just €30, including two gelatos.
Everyone
seemed in great humor. Families with little kids filled the streets late into
the evening. The San Sebastian people know how to live!
