Top Ten Artsy Novels to Read in Europe

Do you enjoy reading novels set in the places you are traveling to? I know I do. I love curling up at the end of a long day of sightseeing and reading a novel that helps me revisit the places I’ve seen. My preference is historical novels because I love history, which is one of the many reasons that I’m drawn to traveling in Europe. I enjoy wandering cobbled back alleys and imagining myself swishing my long skirts through the dust. No doubt the reality was a lot less romantic and much smellier, but imagination can be a wonderful thing!

I’ve chosen my top ten novels based on two criteria. First, the novel needs to evoke a sense of the place in which it was set, and second, it needs to relate in some way to the arts. You’re sure to find some new-to-you reads to take along on your next trip, or even to stay at home with.

England

Entertaining Mr Pepys by Deborah Swift

Entertaining Mr Pepys is the third novel in Deborah Swift’s “Women of Pepys’ Diary” series. All three novels are worth taking along if you are spending time in London and want a fascinating glimpse of what life was like in the 1660s. Famed diarist Samuel Pepys is at the center of this and the first two novels (Pleasing Mr Pepys and A Plague on Mr Pepys), each following a different woman who knew Samuel and was mentioned in his diary. In Entertaining Mr Pepys, the actress Elizabeth (Bird) Carpenter takes center stage as she navigates the world of the theater when women were finally allowed on stage as actresses. If you enjoy impeccably researched historical novels with plenty of intrigue, then the “Women of Pepys’ Diary” series is for you.

The Lost Book of the Grail by Charlie Lovett

While traveling in England, plan on touring some of its awesome cathedrals (don’t miss York Minster, Salisbury Cathedral, and Durham Cathedral to name just three of my faves!) and then settle down with The Lost Book of the Grail. The setting is an ancient cathedral in the fictional town of Barchester. Flashback chapters open with succinct descriptions of cathedral areas such as cloisters, the nave, chapels, and more that I found fascinating. Through a series of clever flashbacks, you navigate the history of the cathedral from its founding by a martyred saint through the Norman invasion, Reformation, Civil War, Victorian era, World War II, and modern times. The plot’s twists and turns provide enough mystery to make the denouement both surprising and satisfying.

France

Drawing Lessons by Patricia Sands

Are you taking a trip to Provence? Then pack or download a copy of Drawing Lessons, a delicious novel set in Arles that follows a woman’s quest to redefine herself after the death of her husband. Patricia Sands evokes the sensuous delights of Provence so beautifully that you’ll feel like you are there. And if, indeed, you are there, you’ll have the sights and smells that surround you confirmed in the story.

The Paris Hours by Alex George

This is the novel to read when you’re spending time in Paris. The Paris Hours tells the stories of four “ordinary” people during one day in Paris in 1927. Along the way, they encounter an extraordinary panoply of luminaries including Hemingway, Proust, Picasso, Gertrude Stein, Ravel, Josephine Baker, and even Sylvia Beach, the proprietor of Paris’s most famous English bookstore, Shakespeare & Company. Alex George brings the ambience, and the people, of Paris to life as he takes readers through streets and parks they can still walk through today. Surprises and twists abound in one of the most cleverly plotted and exquisitely written novels I’ve read in a long while.

Germany

And After the Fire by Lauren Belfer

I am a huge fan of the music of Johann Sebastian Bach (check out my visit to the Bach Museum in Leipzig) and so And After the Fire was the novel for me. It tells the fascinating story of a lost Bach manuscript with a disturbing message. The story spans over two hundred years, from Berlin in the 18th century through the Holocaust to New York in contemporary times. Inspired by historical events, the compelling narrative of this deeply researched and evocative novel resonates with emotion and immediacy.

Chasing the Wind by C. C. Humphreys

Heading for Berlin? Take along Chasing the Wind, a rollicking good adventure that mixes a Bruegel masterpiece, a female aviator, espionage, and the 1936 Berlin Olympics. It’s a page-turner, so make sure you’ve finished your sightseeing for the day before reading it, else you may decide to stay in your hotel room and read rather than go out to sample Berlin’s many museums (check out Booming Berlin: Your Artsy Guide for suggestions about what to do during a three-day visit to Berlin).

Italy

Raphael, Painter in Rome by Stephanie Storey

No trip to Rome is complete without experiencing the art of Raphael, Michelangelo and da Vinci. And the perfect novel to accompany you is Raphael, Painter in Rome  by Stephanie Storey, and her other novel Oil and Marble. Both chronicle the lives of three of the most renowned artists in western Europe: Raphael in Raphael, Painter in Rome and Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci in Oil and Marble. Even in the 21st century, there are parts of old Rome in which only a small leap of the imagination is needed to be transported back to the Renaissance when intrigue lurked around every corner and the smell of oil paint was heavy in the air. Raphael. Painter in Rome takes you deep into the heart of a Rome that may be long gone but still lingers in the imagination after dark.

Netherlands

Girl with a Pearl Earring by Tracy Chevalier

One of the things I love about touring the Netherlands is how the light often reminds me of an Old Master painting. One of the most famous is Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring. So, the perfect read for fans of his work is the novel of the same name by Tracy Chevalier. Set in 17th-century Delft, Girl with a Pearl Earring is a richly-imagined portrait of the young woman who inspired the painting. I love how Chevalier seamlessly merges history and fiction in this and many of her other novels set in Europe, including The Lady and the Unicorn (14th-century France), Burning Bright (late 18th-century London), Falling Angels (early 20th-century London), A Single Thread (1930s England), and Remarkable Creatures (early 19th-century England).

Spain

The Return by Victoria Hislop

I picked up a copy of The Return in a second-hand bookstore while wandering the back streets of Antibes seeking shade at the height of the 2019 heat wave (la canicule, as the French called it). It was the perfect novel to read while traveling west into Spain. It takes place both in the present and during the Spanish Civil War, a time in history about which I knew very little.  The story of a flamenco guitar player (a tocadores) and a flamenco dancer (a bailaora) who fall in love in 1930s Granada and are separated during the terrible excesses of the Spanish Civil War will stay with you long after you leave Spain.  

The Miramonde Trilogy by Amy Maroney

For a book lover, few things are more enchanting than enjoying a novel and then discovering that it’s the first in a trilogy. I had that experience after reading The Girl from Oto, the first offering in Amy Maroney’s trilogy about a female artist in Renaissance Spain, the other two novels being Mira’s Way and A Place in the World. I read all three not long after I traveled through the Pyrenees where much of the story takes place. Amy Maroney brings the region to life wonderfully—its wildlife and independent mountain people, the sweeping landscapes and harsh weather, and the turbulent history during the time when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella were on the throne.

What’s your favorite artsy novel set in Europe? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Courtyard in the Alhambra in Spain

Amazing Artsy Sightseeing Choices in Spain for the Independent Traveler

When it comes to artsy favorites, Spain has more than its fair share of wonderful sights and experiences. From amazing flamenco to mind-bending modern art to soul-expanding palaces and cathedrals, Spain is a treasure that keeps on giving.

Every time I travel to Spain, I discover new layers of a culture that stretch back millennia.

In this post, I share some of my favorite artsy experiences in Spain.

Map of Spain: Suggested Artsy Favorites

The map below shows the locations of the artsy sightseeing favorites mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.

Flamenco–a Definite Artsy Favorite!

My husband Gregg and I are crazy for flamenco and see it every chance we get when we travel in Spain. In fact, Gregg loves it so much that he created a whole series of pastel drawings based on his experiences seeing flamenco in Spain.

Abstract pastel drawing in pink and blue tones showing a flamenco dancer with swirling skirts
Flamenco Abstraction 7 by Gregg Simpson
Abstract pastel drawing in blue and green tones showing a flamenco dancer with swirling skirts
Flamenco Abstraction 6 by Gregg Simpson

We’ve experienced flamenco in Seville, Cordoba, and Barcelona.

Flamenco in Seville

Seville is the place to go to see a wide variety of flamenco shows, although we’ve also seen good shows in both Barcelona (even though it’s not flamenco country) and Cordoba.

When you’re in Seville (#1 on the map), start with the Flamenco Dance Museum. Purchase the combo ticket that includes the museum and a late afternoon flamenco show. On your second night in Seville (and seriously, spend at least two nights and preferably three in this most Spanish of cities), attend a flamenco show at Los Gallos.

Two female flamenco dances dancing outside against a backdrop of rounded columns in Seville.
Flamenco dancers in Seville

The Flamenco Dance Museum exhibits a marvelous collection of flamenco-related objects, films, and paintings and explains the history of flamenco and the meaning of the various terms. Baile is dance, Bailaor is dancer, cantaor is singer, palmas is the rhythmic hand-clapping that accompanies flamenco song and dance, and duende is the soul force that inspires the art of flamenco.

The flamenco dancers and musicians at the Flamenco Museum put on a heart-stomping hour-long concert. Get your tickets in advance. The room was packed!

Options for Seeing Flamenco in Seville

The show at Los Gallos is intimate and incredible. We’ve seen it twice and both times we were completely blown away.

Seeing Flamenco in Barcelona

Catalan Barcelona (#2) is not a center for flamenco. However, we saw our first performance of flamenco there at the Palau de la Música. Called Opera y Flamenco, we enjoyed an utterly spellbinding evening of opera arias by a tenor and a soprano, flamenco dancing by a man and woman, and traditional flamenco singing by a woman. A band of about eight that included guitars, piano, cello, violins, and drums blew the roof off.

I was having heart palpitations by the end. Rarely, if ever, have we experienced such an awe-inspiring evening of music. The flamenco dancing was enough to turn even the most hardened non-romantic into a giant goose bump.

The concert we saw may not be playing when you’re in Barcelona but definitely make room in your itinerary to tour the Palau de la Música or take in a concert. The stunningly ornate modernista building will take your breath away. I write more about it in Favorite Concerts & Performances in Europe.

Seeing the Palau de la Música in Barcelona

Historical Art–a Must See for the Artsy Traveler

Historical art in Spain takes in a lot of centuries, going as far back as 30,000 years ago and beyond. Spain has several cave art sites and is world-renowned for its master artists, including Velasquez, El Greco, and Goya, among others.

Cave Art

So far, we’ve visited only one cave art site in Spain—La Pileta (#3) near Ronda in southern Spain. The hour-long tour in the dimly lit cave took us past paintings that are at least 30,000 years old. Reservations are required; check the website to book your tour time. The drive up a steep and winding road to the entrance of the cave is half the fun of a visit here.

We learned about the Caves of Pileta (Cueva de la Pileta) from the owner of the beautiful little hotel we stayed at out in the countryside near Ronda (see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks).

We’re big cave art fans and plan to visit the ‘queen’ of the cave art sites –the Cave of Altamira (Cueva de Altamira) in northern Spain near the charming town of Santillana del Mar. Featured are charcoal drawings and polychrome paintings of animals and human hands.

Detail of the replica of paintings of the Cave of Altamira

The Cave at Altamira is the premier site for exploring prehistoric art in Spain. Buy tickets in advance from the website.

The Prado

The Prado in Madrid (#4) is one of the world’s major art galleries, on a par with the Louvre and the Rijksmuseum. We enjoyed touring the Prado which exhibits many of the biggies, including Bosch’s The Garden of Earthly Delights, Velasquez’s Las Meninas, Goya’s 6th of May, and a whack of Raphaels, Rubenses, Durers, El Grecos, et al.

The Garden of Earthly Delights by Bosch High Resolution 2

Shown above is the Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch, surely one of the coolest paintings ever!

Although large, the Prado not as daunting as the Louvre and certainly not as crowded. You can get fairly close to masterpieces that you’ve seen in art books for years. There’s no doubt that the real thing is, well, the real thing! There’s no comparison to a reproduction.

Put the Prado at the top of your artsy must-see list when you visit Madrid.

Options for Touring Art Museums in Madrid

Modern Art for the Artsy Traveler

Spain is home to several modern art museums, the most famous being the Reina Sofia and the Guggenheim Bilbao. Don’t miss either one if you’re a modern art fan.

Reina Sofia

The Reina Sofia (#5) is the major modern art museum in Madrid and houses Picasso’s Guernica along with assorted works by Miró, Dalí, etc. Guernica did not come to Spain until the 1980s after the death of Franco. Now it has pride of place in a room of its own.

The painting is massive and far more powerful in real life than in reproduction. You’ll sense how enraged Picasso felt as he painted it.

The Reina Sofia is a well-designed gallery that combines a modern area with the arched hallways and barred windows of an old hospital. In many of the rooms, a film representative of the period is playing. Most were from the silent era which made following them a lot easier.

The Reina Sofia is included in my post showcasing Awesome Modern Art Museums in Europe: Best Bets for the Artsy Traveler.

Guggenheim Bilbao

The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao (#6) is hands down one of my very favorite modern art museums in Europe. The building itself is fabulous as are the many sculptures surrounding it, including the beloved Puppy. He’s the massive Highland Terrier created by Jeff Koons and made from living flowers that guards the entrance to the museum.

Puppy stands guard outside the Guggenheim Bilbao

The Guggenheim Bilbao is included in my post showcasing the Awesome Modern Art Museums in Europe: Best Bets for the Artsy Traveler.

Options for Touring the Guggenheim Bilbao

Museums Dedicated to Individual Artists

Several of the most famous artists of the 20th century were born in Spain including Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, and Salvador Dalí. Each has museums dedicated to their art along with pieces in most major collections.

Picasso Museum

For more Picasso, visit the exquisite Picasso Museum (Museu Picasso) (#7) in the Barri Gòtic, the medieval center of Barcelona. Picasso truly was a master of it all—a painter, printmaker, ceramicist, sculptor, stage designer, and even a poet and playwright. The Museu Picasso includes over 4,000 works artfully displayed.

Miró Foundation

A visit to the Miró Foundation (Fundació Joan Miró (#8)) in Barcelona is just plain fun. Located in the Parc de Montjuïc, it’s a subway or bus ride from the Plaça de Catalunya and well worth an afternoon of your time. I write more about it in my post Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Trendy Barcelona.

Dalí Museum

If you’re driving from southwest France into Spain, consider stopping in Figueres to visit the majorly quirky Dalí Theatre-Museum (#9). If you are a Dalí fan (I confess I am not), the museum is a worthwhile stop. The area also has other Dalí sites including the Salvador Dalí House in Portlligat near the charming little town of Cadaques.

Cathedrals to Awe the Artsy Traveler

In this very Catholic country, you’ll find lots of churches and cathedrals, many dripping with gold brought back from the New World by the conquistadors.

Learn more about them in these posts.

Options for Touring Cathedrals in Spain

My favorite cathedral, hands down, is the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. Still unfinished after decades of building, the Sagrada Familia is so incredibly quirky at the same time as being heart-stoppingly stunning. The stained glass floods your senses, blocking out the sounds of fellow travelers. Stop, sit, and let your soul be stirred.

Stained glass windows in the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona - an artsy favorite
Interior of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona

Palaces–Artsy Favorites

The must-see palace in Spain is, of course, the Alhambra (#16) in Granada, the center of Moorish Spain back in the day. I write about my suggestions for visiting Granada and touring the Alhambra in A Culture Steeped Itinerary to Tour Andalusia Comfortably in 10 Days.

Allocate at least two nights in Granada so that you can spend the entire day touring the Alhambra and the Nasrid Palace. The complex is massive and requires stamina to enjoy. Pace yourself and make sure you get reservations well in advance of your visit.

View of the Alhambra in Granada, Spain--a must-see for the artsy traveler
The fabled Alhambra in Granada

In Madrid, the Royal Palace is also definitely worth a visit.

Conclusion

One of the many things I love about traveling in Spain is the variety of interesting sights and regions. At least two weeks is needed to even scratch the surface of Spain. It’s a huge country!

Must-see regions are Catalonia to visit Barcelona, Andalusia to visit Seville, Cordoba, and Granada, Madrid and Toledo in the center, and northern Spain from Santiago de Compostela in the far northwest to Bilbao and Basque country and the Pyrenees in the far west.

Artsy travel experiences abound. Here are more posts to explore:

Whitewashed house in Sparin

Best Itineraries to Tour Favorite Regions in Spain

My two Spain itineraries last for three weeks each because, frankly, you can’t “do” Spain in one trip. But in a three-week period, you can see a fair bit of it by focusing on either the south or the north.

This post presents two itineraries that both include Madrid.

Itinerary 1 starts in Barcelona, goes down the coast to Andalusia, swings by Madrid, visits charming Zaragoza and ends in Barcelona.

Itinerary 2 starts in Madrid and explores Salamanca and northern Spain, before swinging south to take in Burgos and ending back in Madrid.

Sample Itinerary 1: Barcelona and the South

The map below shows the route for a three-week trip to Spain starting and ending in Barcelona.

Day 1: Arrive in Barcelona

Go into Barcelona and get settled. You’ll spend three nights here so you have plenty of time to explore one of Europe’s most visited destinations.

Days 2 to 3: Barcelona

Spend three nights and two full days exploring Barcelona. Highlights include the Sagrada Familia, the Gaudi architecture, the Picasso Museum, the Palau de la Musica, and the Miro Foundation. Read more in How to Spend Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Beautiful Barcelona.

Many Catalan people would prefer Catalonia not be a part of Spain. The last time I was in Catalonia staying for a week in Girona, a Catalan stronghold, Catalan flags bloomed from the windows of many buildings and people spoke Catalan more readily than Spanish.

But don’t worry, most people in the service industries will likely speak English to you or at least respond to your attempts at Spanish.

Memories of Barcelona

One of my most vivid memories of Catalonia was during a visit to Barcelona when I was 21. I had traveled for two weeks with friends along the Costa Brava and then returned to Barcelona to spend a day sightseeing before flying back to England where I was studying. This was in the mid-1970s when Franco was in power and Spain was not the hip, happenin’ and awesome place to travel that it is now.

I walked into the Plaça de Catalunya and sat on the edge of one of the fountains to watch the world go by. The sun shone, people strolled, all seemed peaceful.

Suddenly, a handful of young men entered the plaza from a side street. They carried two or three placards and were chanting. I stood up for a better look, fascinated by this evidence of Spanish protest in the midst of fascism. I started walking toward the protestors.

Bad move.

A phalanx of armed soldiers started marching directly towards me, sub-machine guns cocked and ready. I looked around. The people who had filled the plaza with noise and laughter moments before were gone. I was completely alone—just me and my orange backpack with its grubby Canadian flag.

I picked up my pack and retreated as smartly as I could. The soldiers veered away, presumably to arrest the protestors, and I boarded the first bus I found to take me to the airport—seven hours before my flight was scheduled to take off.

Barcelona Today

I returned to Barcelona in 2010 and again in 2015. What a difference!

Barcelona is fun to visit, although in recent years it’s become extremely crowded. Avoid it at the height of summer and plan your time to avoid the worst of the crowds.

Read my suggestions for enjoying a two-day visit to Barcelona in Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Trendy Barcelona.

Day 5: Valencia

Pick up a car at Barcelona airport and start driving south. Spain is BIG! You can’t easily drive from Barcelona to Andalusia in one day so I suggest breaking your trip in Valencia. It’s a pleasant city and the City of Arts and Sciences (La Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias) is a spectacular and imposing space well worth a few hours of your time.

Days 6 to 11: Andalusia

You should really spend at least a week in this iconic area of Spain, but if you only have fivedays, then focus on Granada and Seville. Both are Spain must-sees. If you have time for only one of the two cities, then my vote is Seville. I never get tired of visiting this beautiful city with its wonderful food, fiery flamenco and great atmosphere.

You could easily spend a week in this region of Spain enjoying the historic Seville and Granada, before exploring the stunning White Towns – Los Pueblos Blancos—and Ronda with its gorgeous gorge.

Read more about Andalusia in A Culture-Steeped Itinerary to Tour Andalusia Comfortably in 10 Days.

Here are some GetYourGuide tour options in Andalusia:

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Day 12: Cordoba

On your way north to Madrid, stay a night in Cordoba, one of Spain’s most magical cities (and that’s saying something). Explore La Mezquita, the immense mosque dating from 784 A.D, that features a magnificent columned prayer hall and Byzantine mosaics. In the evening, wander the tiny streets of this lovely city and take in a flamenco performance. I don’t think an artsy traveler can ever see too much flamenco..

Day 13: Toledo

Toledo makes a good stop for a peaceful night before driving into Madrid. It’s a lovely little town with plenty to see. At nights, it’s particularly stunning when the crowds have dissipated and you have the floodlit cathedral to yourself.

Days 14 to 18: Madrid

Drive north to Madrid, leave your car in a parking lot outside the city, or better yet stay at my favorite Madrid hotel: Sabataini drop your car off at the airport, and then spend your last day exploring Spain’s capital. You could easily spend a week in Madrid, but if you only have time for one day, check out my post How to Enjoy a Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Madrid.

Day 19: Zaragoza

Although on the tourist trail, Zaragoza is a wonderful place to spend the night. We toured the magnificent baroque Nuestra Señora del Pilar basilica, checked out the Aljafería, an 11th-century Moorish palace, and enjoyed some of the best tapas of all our trips to Spain. Zaragoza makes a good place to break the trip from Madrid to Barcelona.

Day 20-21: Barcelona

Drop your car at the airport and spend another night in Barcelona. You could spend your final day taking a tour to stunning Montserrat.

Sample Itinerary 2: Madrid and the North

The map below shows the route for a three-week trip to Spain starting and ending in Madrid that skips Barcelona and southern Spain but does include western and northern Spain.

Day 1: Arrive in Madrid

Go into Madrid and get settled. You’ll spend three nights here so you have plenty of time to explore one of my favorite European cities.

Days 2 to 4: Madrid

Visit Madrid for its fabulous art museums—the Prado and the Reina Sofia. Also, stroll through Retiro Park (El Parque del Buen Retiro or just El Retiro), then join the locals for a late dinner.

Madrid is definitely worth at least three nights so you can thoroughly enjoy seeing some of Europe’s greatest art “in the flesh” and be a part of the lively evening scene.

Read more about my Madrid recommendations in Exploring Fascinating Madrid–Europe’s: Best-Kept Secret for the Artsy Traveler

Day 5: Toledo

Pick up a car at Madrid airport and drive to Toledo, a truly delightful place to visit. Perched high on a hill famously depicted in the painting View over Toledo by El Greco, Toledo pulses with history.

Walk the narrow streets, buy some objects made from the world-famous Toledo steel and check out the stunning cathedral.

Panorama of Toledo with the Alcantara Bridge – Spain

Day 6: Salamanca

We visited Salamanca on a driving trip that took us diagonally across northwest Spain from San Sebastian in the northeast to Salamanca in the west, near the Portuguese border and on the same latitude as Porto in northern Portugal.

I highly recommend adding Salamanca to your itinerary. It’s a laid-back, inviting, and friendly Spanish city with a fabulous art nouveau museum.

Enjoy a glass of wine in the massive Plaza Mayor, one of Europe’s most spectacular living rooms, and listen to roving bands of guitarists dressed in medieval garb play vaguely Mexican-sounding music.

Apparently, many people who emigrated to Mexico came from Salamanca and some of the wealthier ones have returned to make Salamanca prosperous. It certainly is a beautifully maintained city.

Days 7 to 10: Santiago de Compostela

Take your time driving from Salamanca to Santiago de Compostela, perhaps stopping enroute in Vigo before heading north. Santiago de Compostela can be crowded, but it’s a fascinating city to explore with an amazing food culture. Definitely check out some of its wonderful restaurants.

Days 11 to 16: Northern Spain

The landscape in the north is mountainous and lusciously green—not the seared brown plain you expect to see in Spain. You could easily spend a week traveling from west to east (or the reverse). I provide a suggested itinerary in my post Exploring Northern Spain & Basque Country.

Fuente Dé mountains in the Picos de Europa, Camaleño, Cantabria, Spain

You can also walk the width of northern Spain on the Camino. I haven’t, but I know many people who have, including guest poster Elizabeth Petrie. Read her two posts about her trip:

Days 17 to 18: Bilbao and San Sebastian

The big attraction in Bilbao is the Guggenheim, which you can see in a few hours, and then choose to move on to San Sebastian where sampling pinxhos makes for a fabulous evening out.

Day 19: Burgos

Break your journey between Bilbao and Madrid in historic Burgos. You’ll find lots there to keep you busy, including a visit to the terrific Museo de Evolución Humana (Museum of Human Evolution).

Days 20/21: Madrid

Drop your car at the airport, spend another night in Madrid (take in a flamenco show!), and start planning your next trip to Spain.

Tours in Spain

Here are some tours available through GetYourGuide:

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What Regions of Spain are Your Favorites?

Do you have a favorite region of Spain that I’ve left out? Please share your recommends in the Comments below.

Here are links to more of my posts about fantastic Spain:

Exploring Burgos and León along the Camino of Santiago

Burgos and León are both fascinating cities located along the Camino of Santiago in northern Spain.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie spent time in Burgos and León during her journey along the Camino of Santiago.

In this post, Elizabeth shares what to see and do in two of northern Spain’s most beautiful—and often under-visited—cities.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago

Orientation to Burgos & Leon

The map below includes the places mentioned in this post. Click a number to find out more information.

Exploring Burgos

Burgos is the provincial capital of Castilla y León in northern Spain. Its location on the Camino de Santiago route makes it a natural stopping point for pilgrims traveling the Way. This gorgeous medieval city is well worth a day or two of any traveler’s time.

If you’re traveling in northern Spain, put Burgos on your itinerary. Major sights include:

  • One of Spain’s most magnificent cathedrals
  • A castle
  • An atmospheric old city
  • Excellent museums, including the world-class Museo de Evolución Humana
  • The wonderfully photogenic Arco de Santa Maria
  • Wonderful food.

Museo de Evolución Humana

The Museo de Evolución Humana (#1) (Museum of Human Evolution) is simply terrific and a highlight of our travels in northern Spain. The modern glass construction with high open spaces houses three floors of authentic and reproduction artifacts, including bones, skulls, animal jaws, tools, and portable art.

Adults and kids alike enjoy the interactive displays and quizzes, the videoclips of recent discoveries, the various re-enactments and interpretations of early humans’ social behaviours, and marvellous representations of various members of Australopithecus and Homo.

The museum also includes exhibits on Atapuerca, the archaeological site north of Burgos. Here, Europe’s oldest human fossil remains were discovered in 2007. We walked past Atapuerca on our way into Burgos.

Menhirs in a field near Atapeurca in northern Spain
Standing stones near Atapuerca in the Province of Burgos and near the Way

Lucky for us, the museum was almost empty. We were able to spend as much time as we liked in front of the various displays and interactive activities.

Statue of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar

On your way from the museum back to the central plaza in Burgos, you pass a statue of hometown boy Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, better known as El Cid, who was born in Burgos in 1043 and died in 1099.

Statue of El Cid mounted on horseback with sword in Burgos

El Cid was a Castilian knight and warlord who became a Spanish folk hero and national icon as a result of his service in the armies of both Christian and Muslim rulers, and his temporary conquest of Valencia. El Cid is the protagonist in the most significant medieval Spanish epic poem, El Cantar de Mio Cid.

The Cathedral of Burgos

The 13th-century Cathedral of Burgos (#2)—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—is massive, incorporating the church itself, the cloisters, the Bishop’s Palace, and part of the original city walls. The interior has three naves separated by rows of huge columns and flanked by fifteen side chapels containing altars, tombs, relics, and precious artifacts. 

View of Burgos Cathedral in Burgos, Spain
Burgos Cathedral is one of the most important cathedrals in Spain.

Everywhere you look, whether on the facades or inside the cathedral, you’ll see decoration or carving. The term “el horror del vacío” (“the horror of empty space”) was never so applicable as in the interior of Burgos Cathedral.

The magnificent star-vaulted dome and the spectacular rose windows are awe-inspiring. Also amazing are the gold plating and ornate carvings on the retablo of the high altar that depicts the life of the Virgin Mary.

Altar in the Cathedral of Burgos
Altar in the Cathedral of Burgos

Saints, angels, the nobility, important clergy, and the monarchs appear below the deities—a reminder of God’s absolute power.

One of the highlights in the cathedral is a portrait of Mary Magdalene by Leonardo da Vinci (~1515 ). We also saw one of El Cid’s trunks and a small wooden door with a carved face into whose mouth pilgrims inserted small coins.

If you go, rent the audio guide to learn about the art and architecture. The Cathedral of Burgos ranks alongside the likes of Westminster Abbey, Notre Dame in Paris, and Milan Cathedral—but without the crowds.

Burgos Castle

Include a visit to Burgos Castle (#3), with its original structure and fortifications dating to the 9th century. The small museum is interesting, but the real attraction is the spectacular view over the city of Burgos.

Arco de Santa Maria

The Arco de Santa Maria (#4) is one of the twelve medieval doors that led into the medieval city of Burgos. Rebuilt by Charles V in the 16th century, the structure is worth a stop to admire the carvings on the facade. You can go inside to view special exhibitions and a small museum. At night, the Arco de Santa Maria is beautifully illuminated.

View of the Arco de Santa Maria, an ornately carved wall in Burgos, Spain
Arco de Santa Maria in Burgos

Tours in Burgos

Here are some options for tours in Burgos through GetYourGuide:

Powered by GetYourGuide

León

León is a delightful small city that is a bit off the beaten path but worth a visit for its magnificent cathedral, beautiful old town, and the chance to stay in Parador de León, Hostal de San Marcos, Spain’s top parador (see description below).

We stayed two nights in León which, like Burgos, is situated on the Camino. In fact, the Camino crosses the large plaza in front of the parador. The distinctive concha design symbolizing the Camino is everywhere in León, including on the facades of the buildings.

Historic Center of León

The historic centre of León is utterly charming, with narrow streets and very old and historic buildings. Some of the architecture incorporates the city walls of Roman times. You’ll find plenty of small and large plazas lined with outdoor cafés and interesting shops.

Take time to wander around the town, even occasionally getting lost while appreciating the beauty of this wonderfully walkable city.

León Cathedral

Often dubbed La Casa de la Luz (House of Light), the 13th-century Catedral Santa María de León (#5) is magnificent. Soaring sandstone towers glow in the evening light, and the interior is breathtaking, with three rose windows instead of the usual one.

View of the Cathedral of Leon in Spain
Cathedral of León in Spain

The cathedral was built on the site of the 2nd-century Roman baths, which were converted to a royal palace around the year 1000. A masterpiece of Gothic architecture, the cathedral consists of two towers with a large portal between them, and flying buttresses crusted with gargoyles on the exterior walls.

León is often referred to as the city of stained glass, and no wonder. Windows dating from the 13th to the 15th century contain over 1,800 square meters of stained glass. Also inside the cathedral are hundreds of pieces of sacred art, including examples from Romanesque to Neoclassical times.

León’s cathedral is one of the most important along the Way.

Basilica of San Isidro

Don’t miss the smaller but equally enchanting Basilica of San Isidro (#6). Located on the site of an ancient Roman temple, the church’s Christian roots extend to the early 10th century when a monastery for Saint John the Baptist was erected on the grounds.

Basilica of San Isidro, León - Spain
Basilica of San Isidro, León – Spain

Built in the Romanesque style, the basilica also has elements of both Gothic and Islamic architecture. Check out the 12th-century painted murals in the funeral chapel of the kings of León. The exceptionally well-preserved murals present New Testament subjects as well as scenes of contemporary rural life.

Stay at the Parador de León

The Parador de León (#7) is one of the most luxurious places I’ve ever stayed. Sponsored by the Spanish government, the parador system of lodgings includes refurbished historic buildings, such as castles, monasteries, and royal residences. The system also includes some purpose-built, modern hotels.

Parador San Marcos in  León
Parador San Marcos in León

For five-star luxury, we paid about €170 each for two nights—a serious bargain, considering the service and surroundings.

King Ferdinand founded the Parador de León, Hostal de San Marcos in the early 16th century as a church and hospital for knights of the Order of Saint James. Some of the original staircase has been preserved, as have the curved ceilings, chandeliers, and cloister windows. Fabulous portraits and Renaissance artifacts and armour adorn the lobby and corridors.

Our room—which we accessed with a large skeleton key—was located in one of the converted monks’ cells in the cloister. The room was beautifully appointed with 1000-count monogrammed sheets, slippers, and luxury toiletries.

Museum at the Parador

Visit the church and museum attached to the parador. The original buildings were erected on the remains of a Roman fortress, and the church dates from the mid-12th century. Many sarcophagi and Roman stelae from ancient times dot the lovely cloister gardens. Sadly, parts of the church grounds have a darker past when they served as a prison for suspected or accused fighters in the Spanish Civil War.  

Tours in León

Here are some options for tours in León through Tiqets.com:

Conclusion

Even if you’re not walking the Camino, put Burgos and León on your itinerary in northern Spain. For more information about places to visit in northern Spain, including both Santiago de Compostela and Bilbao, see Exploring Northern Spain and Basque Country.

For more about Elizabeth’s journey along the Camino read her Top Tips for Walking the Camino of Santiago and excerpts from her journal in A Camino Journal: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela.

Best Tips for Walking the Camino of Santiago

Everyone I know who has walked the Camino of Santiago (the Way) to Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain raves about the experience.

My friend and guest poster Elizabeth Petrie is no exception. She and her friend, Cheri, walked the Camino from Pamplona to Burgos and from Sarria to Santiago, with train travel between Burgos, León, and Sarria.

Elizabeth shares her experiences and recommendations in three posts on Artsy Traveler. In this post, learn her top tips for enjoying the Camino of Santiago. To find out how Elizabeth and Cheri organized their walk, read A Camino Journal: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela. Elizabeth’s recommendations for Burgos and León are included in Exploring Burgos and León.

Guest Poster Elizabeth Petrie

Retirement brings new opportunities, and one of my most cherished is having the chance to travel. New places, unique experiences, wonderful memories—what could be more enticing? 

For a long time, walking across northern Spain on the Camino has topped my “bucket list.” My friend, Cheri, shared the same interest, so we decided to make plans to walk the Camino together.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago

Here are tips for helping you plan an awesome experience on the Camino of Santiago.

Prepare for the Camino of Santiago

Distance walking was new to me, so I started training about a year before leaving for Spain. Cheri and I began with modest treks of six to eight kilometers twice a week and worked up to walks of ten to twelve kilometers. By the time we left for Spain, we could comfortably walk about fourteen kilometers with our backpacks partially full.

Plan Your Itinerary

The Camino of Santiago extends across several countries and hundreds of kilometers. Start in France on the Camino Francés or complete all or a portion of the Camino del Norte like we did.

We put together an itinerary that included stays in four-star hotels in the cities we’d pass through: Pamplona, Burgos, León, and our final destination, Santiago de Compostela. We knew we’d appreciate a bit of luxury after days of slogging along and nights spent in the dormitory-like albergues.

An albergue is a hostel that provides accommodation only for pilgrims walking the Camino of Santiago. To stay in an albergue, you need to have a Pilgrims Passport.

Obtain a Pilgrims Passport

The Pilgrims Passport contains spaces for the sellos (stamps) that prove you’ve walked that day and are entitled to stay in one of the state-run albergues.

If you start the Camino from St. Jean in France or from Pamplona, like we did, you need to get one stamp per day. If you walk only the last 100 kilometers from Sarria, you need to get two stamps each day.

So long as you have sufficient stamps and you state at the Pilgrims Office in Santiago de Compostela that you’ve completed the Camino for religious or spiritual reasons, you’ll receive the Compostela at the end of the journey in Santiago.

If you state other reasons for completing the Camino, you receive a different certificate to commemorate your journey.

You can also get a passport at some albergues and pilgrims’ offices along the Way.

However, to save time, I recommend you obtain your Pilgrims Passport before you leave. To do so, connect with the Pilgrims’ Association in your home country.

Camino Websites for the UK and the United States

For other organizations, search online for Pilgrims’ Association and the name of your country.

Choose When to Go

Consider walking the Camino in May or September. The weather from June to August is too hot, the hotel prices are higher, and the Way is much more crowded.

We found that May was perfect with regard to both the weather and the crowds (or lack of!). While you definitely won’t run into crowds in the winter months, be aware that many of the smaller albergues are closed from mid-October to mid-April.

Purchase a Guidebook

I recommend A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago (Camino Francés): St. Jean – Roncesvalles – Santiago by John Brierley. The book includes all the information you’ll need: route and town maps, and the location of coffee shops, restaurants, and albergues. The book also lists telephone numbers of the albergues so that you can book ahead.

Plan Your Daily Walk Duration

Plan to walk no more than 15 to 18 kilometers in a day (about five hours), depending on the terrain.

This distance is long enough to give you a reasonable goal, time to stop for sightseeing and meals, and the best chance of finding accommodations. Also, we found that blisters started forming if we attempted to walk more than 22 kilometers in one day.

On most days, we left the albergue around 8 am and arrived at our next albergue in the mid-afternoon. The earlier you get to the albergue you plan to stay in, the better your chances of finding accommodations. Many albergues do not take reservations, although sometimes you can speak with the hospitalero and ask them to call ahead for you.

Book Accommodations for the Final 100 Kilometers

While you do not need to book accommodations along the early stretches of the Way (and often you cannot), you should book places to stay along the last 100 kilometers.

The Way becomes increasingly crowded the closer you get to Santiago. We used booking.com to book small hotels along the last stretch of the Way and were glad we did. Each place we booked was clean and conveniently located.



Booking.com

Walk the Camino of Santiago

Here are some tips for helping you enjoy your time on the Camino.

Use the Send-Ahead Pack Service

Send your main pack ahead and hike with just a day pack. The send-ahead service was well worth the few extra euros (usually €3 to €5 per pack). You can send your pack from any Camino albergue in the morning to the albergue at your next stopping point. Call ahead to make sure the albergue you plan on staying at has available beds and will be open when the van arrives with your pack.

Take a Day Pack

Pack the following items in your day pack:

  • A full first-aid pack, complete with Compeed*and blister treatment, a needle and cotton thread, antibiotic ointment, Band-Aids, antiseptic spray, antihistamines, Afterbite, an elastic bandage, and sunscreen. You’ll find plenty of pharmacies along the Way in case you run out of anything.
  • A liter of water. If you sweat a lot, you will occasionally need to supplement your water with a local version of Gatorade.
  • A change of socks. Sweaty socks can bring on blisters. 
  • A change of shirt and rain gear if rain threatens.
  • Fresh or dried fruit, nuts, protein, etc. Depending on your route for the day, you’ll usually find small coffee bars and restaurants along the Way where you can purchase lunch.
  • Your passport, credit cards, and other essential documents. Also, carry a day’s worth of currency and never flash around large amounts of cash.

*Compeed is a miracle blister treatment available in Spanish farmacias.

I suggest stocking up on Compeed before you leave by buying it online. As soon as you feel a friction blister coming on, put the clear plastic Compeed over it and leave it on. You’ll never have another blister!

Limit Technology

On the Way, consider forgoing technology as much as possible. If you take a SmartPhone to check weather reports and make hotel bookings, particularly in the last 100 kilometers, purchase a cell phone package for Europe from your service provider or pick up a SIM card at a local provider such as Vodafone or Orange.

Use your phone to take pictures instead of carrying a heavy, expensive camera. Also, I suggest not wearing earbuds while you’re walking or you’ll miss the bird song and conversation.

One of my lasting memories on the Way is the sound of an amazing variety of bird songs.

Enjoy the Pilgrim’s Dinner

Have the pilgrim’s dinner when it’s offered at the albergues. You’ll get a cheap and tasty meal that includes soup or salad, a fish or pork entrée, dessert, and a glass of local wine. The local soups are delicious and filling.

Use Other Transportation as Needed

Consider occasionally taking a taxi or public transit when you get tired rather than risking injury. Walking the Camino in short stages will help conserve your energy.

Take Good Footwear

Wear hiking boots that are well broken in. Also, pack a pair of lighter shoes, such as Teva sandals, to occasionally give your feet a rest. Wear flip flops in the shower and around the albergue at the end of the day.

Marker along the Camino of Santiago with a running shoe
Some markers are decorated imaginatively.

Enjoy Meeting New People on the Camino

A highlight of walking the Way is meeting many wonderful and interesting people. People in the albergues and elsewhere along the Camino could not do enough for us. We always left our packs closed, and they were never disturbed, even when we left them in dormitories to go sightseeing. 

Slow Down

My best advice for walking the Camino is to slow down and savor the experience. In other words, stop and smell the roses!

Check out as many churches, shrines, historical sites, and civic plazas as you can. You’ll be amazed at the unexpected beauty and fascinating art and architecture.

Sign on the Santiago of Compostela
Sign on the Camino de Santiago

Northern Spain has been home to human beings for tens of thousands of years, from Neanderthal times to the present. You can hardly take a step without passing a fascinating site of historical significance.

For example, on some sections of the Way, you’ll be following, if not actually walking on, the original Roman roads. And in some of the smaller villages where the Spanish Civil War was fought in the 1930s, you’ll still see bullet holes in the walls of old barns and houses.

Suggested Itinerary

For a detailed breakdown of our itinerary that started in Pamplona, Spain and included stops in Burgos and León,along with a few train journeys, see the post A Camino Journey: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela.

I can’t imagine how our trip could have been any better. We enjoyed pretty much perfect weather, and we both kept well and healthy. In addition, we met interesting people, enjoyed delicious and reasonably-priced meals, and soaked up some of the rich history and culture of Navarra, La Rioja, and Galicia.

We also appreciated the spiritual nature of our journey to Santiago, taking time every day to reflect with humble gratitude upon our many blessings. Our trip was a pilgrimage in many senses of the word.

Do I recommend walking the Camino? Absolutely!

¡Vaya con Dios!

Traveling in Central Spain: Best Destinations for the Artsy Traveler

Traveling in central Spain is a commitment! Distances are vast and destinations spread out. You will drive and drive and drive–and not see a whole heck of a lot. The journey by car from Zaragoza in the east to Toledo just south of Madrid took us about six hours.

Fortunately, the long drives are rewarded with lots of see in the four cities described in this post: Madrid, Toledo, Zaragoza, and Salamanca.

Here are the four places on a map.

Map created with Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

You’re most likely to visit Zaragoza and Salamanca if you’re driving into or out of Spain from France (Zaragoza) or Portugal (Salamanca).

The fastest way to reach Madrid is to either fly or to take a high-speed train from Barcelona. Once in Madrid, visit Toledo on a day trip with either a tour or on public transit, or stop in on your way south if you’re driving.

Auto Europe Car Rental

I suggest allocating at least three nights for Madrid and one night for each of the other three cities en route to other parts of Spain.

Traveling in Spain: Madrid is the Heart

Madrid is monumental. Large avenues lined with massive buildings give the city a solid but not terribly intimate feel.

Panoramic aerial view over Madrid, Spain
Panoramic aerial view over Madrid, Spain.

On one trip we happened to visit on September 29, the national day of protest against proposed government cuts. Thousands of demonstrators in the central Puerta del Sol wore red and chanted “No!”.

We’d heard that the whole city was shut down, but, as tourists, we didn’t experience any inconvenience beyond the taxis taking longer routes to get to the museums and tacking on a €2 surcharge. Considering the fares were around €5, we weren’t bothered!

On another trip, we stayed for two weeks and loved having the time to thoroughly explore Madrid. Check out my post: Exploring Fascinating Madrid–Europe’s: Best-Kept Secret for the Artsy Traveler for more in depth information about exploring Madrid.

Map of Madrid

The map shows the location of the six major sites described in this post.

This map was created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Art Museums in Madrid

If you’re an art lover, you’re likely visiting Madrid to tour the Prado, the Reina Sofia, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum of Art—all located in Madrid’s “Golden Triangle of Art.”

The Prado

The Prado is simply wonderful. With over 7,000 paintings in its collection and around 1,500 on display, your artsy heart will be beating wildly. My favorite piece in the Prado is The Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch. It’s even more creepy and surreal in real life than in reproductions.

 The Garden of Earthly Delights in the Museo del Prado in Madrid,  
by Hieronymus Bosch ,  c. 1495–1505.
The Garden of Earthly Delights in the Museo del Prado in Madrid,
by Hieronymus Bosch , c. 1495–1505.

Other notable works in the Prado include Velasquez’s Las Meninas and other fine works, particularly those of the Spanish royal family, and Goya’s 6th of May and Las pinturas negras (The Black Paintings). You’ll also find great works by El Greco, Rubens, Bruegel, Rembrandt, and van Dyck.

Spare some time for the art of Spanish masters, such as Bartolomé Esteban Murillo and José de Ribera, and the stark figures of Francisco de  Zurbarán. I’ve become partial to Zurbarán after seeing a major exhibition of his work in New York a few years ago. His figures are incredibly compelling.

Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

Visit the Thyssen-Bornemisza to see a huge range of art styles and artists spanning the centuries from the Middle Ages to the moderns.

It’s a veritable ‘who’s who’ of western art. Start on the second floor (the top floor) and work your way through the 13th and 14th centuries (my faves), check out the Portrait of King Henry VIII by Holbein the Younger, then stroll past Tintorettos, Titians, Caravaggios, et al.

The Thyssen-Bornemisza also includes masterpieces by van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Goya, Gainsborough, and Gauguin, to name a few. And then there are the moderns—Kandinsky, Picasso, Braque, Dali, and Madrid’s own Juan Gris.

Take your time and soak it all in!

Reina Sofia

You’ll probably want to spread your museum-going over two days. Seeing all three museums in the Golden Triangle in one day would be artsy suicide. Pace yourself!

Visit the Reina Sofia to view Picasso’s powerful Guernica, which he painted to protest the bombing of the Basque town of Guernica during the Spanish Civil War. The painting is displayed in a room of its own. Arrive early or late to view it without the crowds.

The rest of the museum houses an excellent collection of contemporary art, including works by Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró.

Botanical Gardens & Parque del Buen Retiro

I love European gardens, and these two parks adjacent to each other in Madrid are among the best. We spent a lot of time strolling through the botanical gardens to see a glorious display of dahlias (it was September) along with an outdoor exhibition of photographs documenting seminal moments in Spanish history from 1896 to the present.

Some of the shots were just amazing—dead bodies in the streets during the civil war, Franco riding in a car with Nixon, the Beatles wearing matador hats, and on and on—100 photographs. I wish I could have read the commentaries, but my Spanish is just about nil.

 The Beatles visit Madrid in Spain
The Beatles visit Madrid!

From the botanical gardens, wander into the main gardens where you’ll come across an artificial lake, exhibition spaces, and monuments, including one to the 191 victims of the 11 March 2004 train bombings in Madrid. You’ll also find lots of trees and shady pathways. The park is a treat!

Plaza Mayor

The grand central square of Madrid is an attractive open space that features imposing architecture and Madrid’s central tourist office. I liked all the archways.

Old Madrid after Dark

Madrid after dark is cooking and intense. Grab a drink and some tapas in an outdoor café and watch the world go by, then wander farther to find another place for dinner. Be careful not to over-order in Madrid! Portions are massive, and much of the food is fried and wrapped in ham. It’s tasty but more than a bit on the stodgy side.

Madrid cuisine, appetizer - hearty food in Spain.
Madrid cuisine can be a bit heavy.

Gregg and I often order one dish to share. The servers don’t mind.

Tour the Royal Palace (Palacio Real)

The Royal Palace in Madrid is the largest palace in western Europe. With 2,800 rooms, it’s almost twice the size of Versailles.

You can tour of the palace to view the only surviving example of a Stradivarius quartet, a portion of the permanent art collection, and the Royal Kitchens (only open to the public since 2017).

Traveling in Spain: Don’t Miss Toledo

Take a day trip from Madrid to explore beautiful Toledo or drive there on your way south.

If you’re driving, head straight for the massive car park at the base of the city. You can’t miss it. Just be sure to note where you parked your car and where you exited. Take pictures of your stall, the floor number, and your exit.

We did not follow this advice and ended up walking miles out of our way late at night.

You can’t help but like Toledo. It’s charming with a capital C.

Perched on a hill, Toledo, the city on a hill, is a World Heritage Site famous for its monuments, its awesome cathedral, and for being the “City of the Three Cultures”, thanks to the cultural influences of Christians, Muslims, and Jews. The city was also the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom from 542 to 725 CE, which is kind of cool.

Here’s Gregg in front of the classic view of Toledo made famous in a painting by El Greco.

In front of the classic view of Toledo, Spain
Gregg Simpson in front of the classic view of Toledo, Spain

Toledo is a popular tour stop, so during the day, you’ll have to dodge busloads of tourists huffing and puffing through the narrow streets in the stifling heat. Scoot around them to get a look inside the stunning cathedral that lives up to the hype.

I was mesmerized by the choir stalls. The carving on each stall is different.

Toledo is the place to buy items made from the famous Toledo steel. Display windows bristle with swords and knives and other sharp things that would never make it through airport security in your carry-on bag. I bought several pairs of sewing scissors as gifts.

Store window display of swords in Toledo
Store window display in Toledo

In the evening, once the tour busses have left, the streets fill with locals. Weave through the streets of the old town in search of tapas and wine. You’ll find plenty!

Traveling in Spain: Visit Off the Beaten Track Zaragoza

You’ll likely visit Zaragoza en route to somewhere else. It makes a convenient stopping point for drivers coming from France through the Pyrenees. You can also break up the drive from Barcelona to Madrid in Zaragoza.

The city is the perfect one-night stop along a desolate stretch of a very large country. And you’ll have a chance to enjoy a virtually tourist-free Spanish city that has a great deal to offer the visitor.

Zaragoza Overview

As the capital of the province of Zaragoza and of the autonomous community of Aragon, Zaragoza is a good size, but the interesting part of the city is compact enough to stroll around with just one inexpensive taxi ride out to the Aljafería Palace.

Here’s a map of the city showing the sights mentioned in this post:

Places mapped by Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

The streets and shops are prosperous-looking, clean, and thronged with locals. You’re unlikely to see many tourists, although you’ll find an air-conditioned and well-staffed tourist office on the main plaza, so obviously tourists do go there.

A friendly young man at the tourist office told us where to go for cut-price tapas that evening. Apparently, there’s a street where all the tapas joints charge just €2 for a tapa and a glass of vino. Count me in!

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar

Zaragoza borders the Ebro River which you’ll probably drive across on your way into town and see again when you visit Zaragoza’s main sight—the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar (#1 on the map).

Cathedral and Ebro River in Zaragoza. Aragon, Spain
Cathedral and Ebro river in Zaragoza. Aragon, Spain

Built between 1681 and 1872, this massive Baroque cathedral with its fabulously tile-topped cupolas and turrets is worth a look. Wander around the vast aisles and check out the highlight—a roomful of paintings by Goya.

Zaragoza is Goya’s hometown, so across from the cathedral is a museum (#2) dedicated to his work. We didn’t visit it on this trip, instead opting to grab a cab to the Aljafería Palace which reportedly dates from Moorish times.

Aljafería Palace

We were virtually alone as we ambled through the various rooms to admire interesting exhibits and take photos of the attractive—and empty—courtyard complete with reflecting pond, palm trees, and arches. The Aljafería Palace (#3) is no Alhambra, but it’s worth a quick look.

Aljafería Palace in Zaragoza, Spain
Palace built in Zaragoza in the 11th century.

In the evening, stroll through streets comfortably filled with locals to find tapas. We arrived at the place of the €2 tapas at 8 pm, only to find it and most others still closed. This is Spain, where things typically don’t get going until well past 9 or 10.

But persevere and you’ll find that even regular-priced tapas are not expensive. Zaragoza is a bargain for food and drink.

We stayed in the Hotel NH Collection Gran Hotel de Zaragoza (#4) which was comfortable albeit a bit bland. But the location was good and we could walk everywhere.

Traveling in Spain: Don’t Miss Lovely Salamanca

Visit Salamanca on your way to or from Portugal. If your accommodation budget extends to a splurge, book into the Parador de Salamanca, located about a fifteen-minute walk from the town.

Cathedral of Salamanca next to the river in Salamanca, Spain
Cathedral of Salamanca next to the river

Paradors in Spain are special hotels usually located in historic buildings, such as convents and palaces. They have a certain level of luxury with prices to match, although bargains can be had. Check the booking sites!

The parador in Salamanca is one of the few modern paradors in Spain. Its main claim to fame is its location overlooking the skyline of old Salamanca.

Here’s the view from our room:

Parador of Salamanca

Salamanca is a great place to visit for its old town, fabulous central plaza, and Casa Lis, a marvelous art nouveau museum. Here’s a map of the highlights mentioned in this post.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

Casa Lis Art Nouveau and Art Deco Museum

If you love art deco, you’ll adore this museum. La Casa Lis itself is an extraordinary building in the art nouveau style with plenty of stained glass. Exhibits of over 2,500 pieces of art deco and art nouveau objets d’art include porcelain figures, gold and ivory statues, enamels, bronze items, toys, and even Fabergé eggs.

Casa Lis Art Nouveau and Art Deco Museum, in Salamanca, Spain
Casa Lis Art Nouveau and Art Deco Museum, in Salamanca, Spain

The display of Paris fashion dolls from the late 1800s was especially compelling. Spend a couple of hours strolling from room to room in the virtually empty museum.

Plaza Mayor

Wander uphill into Salamanca’s lovely old town. Very little car traffic is allowed, so the streets are clear and easy to walk in. As the sun begins to go down, people flood into the streets to enjoy the evening air.

We arrived in the Plaza Mayor to find it packed with thousands of people waving placards. Just as in Madrid, Spain’s austerity measures were not going over well with the citizens of Salamanca. However, the protest was one of the most good-humored I’ve seen. The crowd consisted mostly of families and middle-aged or older people smiling and laughing as they periodically brandished their signs. The gist of most signs was a large, red “NO”.

If you encounter a protest (unlikely!), wait until it moves off , then snag a table to gaze out over what must be one of the loveliest plazas in Spain.

Enjoying Plaza Mayor

The Plaza Mayor appears to be square, lined on all four sides by uniform facades that date from the 18th century. Bands of young men dressed in medieval garb played Mexican-sounding music. We wondered why the music sounded so Mexican and were told by our server that Salamanca has maintained ties with Mexico and Latin America. Apparently, many of the Spanish people who emigrated to Mexico came from Salamanca, and some of the wealthier ones have returned to make Salamanca so prosperous looking. It’s a beautifully maintained city.

Around 10:30, when the light still hadn’t faded much (it was early July), the lights were turned on, and everyone in the square gasped, much to the amusement of our server who just rolled his eyes. I guess he sees it every night.

Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, Spain
Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, Spain at night.

Traveling in Spain: Where to Stay in Central Spain

For accommodation suggestions in Madrid, Toledo, Zaragoza, and Salamanca, see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Conclusion

Have you visited the cities described in this post? Leave your comments below. Here are some more Artsy Traveler posts about Spain: