The walnut tree is the reason the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo was built.
Every Roman citizen knew about the tree and the large number of black crows–an unnatural number–that clung to its branches every day. And it was common knowledge that the tree had everything to do with the Emperor Nero.
In the Renaissance, people wondered why the crows always flocked to that particular tree. It was unnerving, especially to the merchants and officials who used the Flaminia roadway which led north out of Rome. They had to pass right by the tree because the city’s walled gate was next to it.
They were convinced that the shiny, black, rustling tree caused bad luck. Mishaps on their various journeys only confirmed this. They became so fearful of the evil that inhabited the area that they finally demanded the Church fathers do something about it.
Every Roman citizen knew about the tree and the large number of black crows–an unnatural number–that clung to its branches every day. And it was common knowledge that the tree had everything to do with the Emperor Nero.
In the Renaissance, people wondered why the crows always flocked to that particular tree. It was unnerving, especially to the merchants and officials who used the Flaminia roadway which led north out of Rome. They had to pass right by the tree because the city’s walled gate was next to it. They were convinced that the shiny, black, rustling tree caused bad luck. Mishaps on their various journeys only confirmed this. They became so fearful of the evil that inhabited the area that they finally demanded the Church fathers do something about it.
Origins of Santa Maria del Popolo
There are many reasons why the churches in Rome were built and many reasons for their chosen locations. The church of Santa Maria del Popolo is located on the site of the walnut tree that grew over the very spot where the despised Nero’s body had been unceremoniously buried some 1500 years earlier. Nero obviously now haunted the place; people had seen him there. Only a church built on that spot would calm the populace. And it needed to be made important. If the Pope recognized the church, it would become a Basilica.
The order eventually came down from Pope Paschal II. The situation had become a social scandal, and this was his official solution. Important artists must be commissioned to decorate its side chapels and ceiling. The artistic works created for it would need to spring from such important themes that even God would notice it.
For the project, the Church recruited renowned artists Caravaggio, Raphael, and Bernini, who all enjoyed fame during their lifetimes. (Well, Caravaggio was definitely known, but not necessarily for his art.) If you’re unfamiliar with these gentlemen artists of the 16th century, I must tell you that they are very famous in the art world. Legendary, even.
What’s Special about Santa Maria del Popolo
In situ is Latin for “in place” and is the term given for paintings, mosaics, frescoes, and sculptures that are still in the exact spot for which they were commissioned, for where they were designed to be. It is always special when one views something in situ, especially a major work.
And that is why I love Santa Maria del Popolo. It lays claim to two Caravaggio paintings, sculptures by Bernini, and a mosaic ceiling designed by Raphael. These creations have remained undisturbed in their precise positions. They could have easily been moved to some world-class museum or other, to bolster their daily visitation numbers and be celebrated at members-only cocktail events that the press would cover with uneducated glee. But something even more amazing happened: the works stayed where they were and as a result are almost unknown.
Location of Santa Maria del Popolo on the Piazza del Popolo
Located a bit out of the way at the north end of Piazza del Popolo, Santa Maria del Popolo sits quietly, without banners or signs. One would never know that it displays mind-boggling, priceless art. The masterpieces are not featured in any special way. You must actually go looking for them.
In the Chigi Chapel, you’ll find products of the genius of both Raphael and Bernini. Raphael obviously based his mosaic ceiling on the most important theme he could think of, The Creation of the World. It is so incredible that even as you are staring at it, your eyes tell you that it’s a painting, not a mosaic.
Raphael, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Statues by Bernini
All the amazing statues in this chapel are by Bernini. If you’re not familiar with Bernini, you’ll want to check out more of his beautiful statues, mostly notably those in the Borghese Gallery in the lovely Borghese Gardens in Rome.
In the Cherasi chapel, you’ll find the two astounding canvas paintings by Caravaggio positioned directly opposite one another—the sensual Conversion on the Way to Damascus and the gut-wrenching Crucifixion of Saint Peter.
Conversion on the Way to Damascus, Caravaggio, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The theme of Peter (as in the apostle Peter of Vatican fame) being crucified upside down in Rome as the Bible describes is not a theme that many artists favor. Perhaps that’s because it is simply too horrific. Caravaggio was not afraid of much, it appears, and clearly threw caution to the wind.
Crucifixion of Saint Peter, Caravaggio, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Visiting Santa Maria del Popolo
You’ll be surprised at the lack of visitors inside the Basilica; you may well be the only one. The reason is simply that most people don’t know about the place or what makes it special, even after being featured in Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons.
The Church of Santa Maria del Popolo is located at 12 Piazza del Popolo, next to the north stone gate and is free to enter. It’s open daily with sporadic hours; check their website for the days of your visit: rome.net/santa-maria-del-popolo. Avoid visiting on a Sunday during Holy Mass because you won’t be allowed to freely wander. Phone: Intl. calling: (011) 39-06-631-0836 / Local calling: 06-631-0836
Happy travels,
Andie Easton
Read about Andie Easton and her wonderful series of books!
Known as the City of Towers, the medieval town of San Gimignano in Tuscany is an entrancing place that I never tire of exploring.
Yes, plenty of crowds surge through San Gimignano, especially on hot summer days. You’ll also find loads of tourist dreck in the shops.
But unlike some of Italy’s most visited cities (think Florence!), San Gimignano manages to retain its medieval charm.
I’ve visited San Gimignano numerous times and even set my first novel there (The Towers of Tuscany).
I’ve nowhere near stopped loving it!
San Gimignano at a Glance
Visit San Gimignano 1300 and find out what the town looked like in the 14th Century
View the marvelous frescoes in the Museo Civico and the Duomo
Climb the Torre Grossa to see stunning views of the Tuscan countryside
Spend an evening in the town at one of the many gourmet restaurants
Stay in a place outside the city with the view of the towers: the Hotel Pescille is a good bet
San Gimignano Snapshot
Even if you visit San Gimignano on the most tourist-heavy days, you need only walk a few paces away from the main thoroughfare (Via San Giovanni) to find yourself virtually alone in a quiet back street.
Hear birds twittering and watch an old guy sweeping his front stoop.
The small side streets in San Gimignano are quiet and crowd-free.
The heaving, sweating, shopping masses of humanity packing the piazzas and dripping gelato on the cobblestones are a distant memory.
Map of San Gimignano
Here’s a map of San Gimignano. It’s a very small and walkable city. You can cross it from gate to gate in about fifteen minutes. Also included are my three recommended hotels.
You’re in the 14th century! Your long gown swishes around your legs, you listen for the bells that divide your days and regulate your life.
If you’re a woman, you might be on your way to the baker for a loaf of fresh bread or to the church to make confession. If you’re a man, you could be meeting a kinsman to settle a festering vendetta or to chat with a fellow guild member about the crocus trade.
In the Middle Ages, much of San Gimignano’s wealth came from the cultivation of saffron from the stamens of crocuses. Also lucrative was textile manufacturing and the production of Vernaccia, a lovely white wine still produced today (it’s very good!).
Walk up to the ruined fortezza. There, you’ll not only rarely find many tourists, you’ll enjoy this stunning view of the towers of San Gimignano.
View of the city of San Gimignano, Italy
When you walk the back streets of San Gimignano in the 21st century, you’re only an ounce of imagination away from the Middle Ages.
The Towers of San Gimignano
San Gimignano is famous for its towers. In fact, the town is often referred to as the Tuscan city of towers because 14 medieval towers are still standing. In its heyday in the 14th century, over 72 towers dominated San Gimignano’s skyline.
But even with only 14 towers, the town of San Gimignano is one of the most beautiful medieval towns in all of Italy.
Why So Many Towers?
Every medieval city had towers back in the day, but San Gimignano is unique because so many of its towers remain.
Why so many towers? We can safely assume that the medieval merchants didn’t build them to give 21st-century tourists something to point their iPhones at.
Wealthy citizens frequently competed with each other to build the tallest towers above their homes. In fact, the Podesta passed a law prohibiting any private citizen from building a tower higher than the Torre Grossa, the municipal hall which survives to this day.
The citizens of San Gimignano were a bellicose lot who sometimes attacked and destroyed towers belonging to their rivals.
The family feuds that form the basis of the Romeo and Juliet story were definitely not fiction. Vendetta and its accompanying violence were the all-too-common ways to resolve differences.
History of San Gimignano
The Etruscans first settled San Gimignano in the 4th century BC, but significant growth did not occur until 1000 to 1200. Thanks to its proximity to the Via Francigena, a major route across Italy, San Gimignano was an important stopover for travelers, pilgrims, and merchants.
The town became steadily more prosperous until it declared itself a free Commune in 1199.
In 1300, Dante Alighieri came to San Gimignano, and in 1317 the famous painter Lippo Memmi opened a workshop. With his father, Lippo Memmi painted a fresco cycle in the town hall that you can see today.
San Gimignano prospered until the mid-14th century when in 1348 it was devastated by the plague, also known as the Black Death. More than half of the population died in a six-month period.
Following the pestilence that also ravaged most of western Europe, San Gimignano never recovered its former glory and at the end of the 14th century was finally obliged to submit to Florentine rule.
The town’s website provides an excellent overview of San Gimignano’s rise and fall over the centuries. The town is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
How to Get to San Gimignano
San Gimignano is about a 45 minute drive or a two-hour bus ride from Florence. Touring Tuscany by car is probably the best way to see the countryside.
When you arrive, park in one of the parking lots at the base of the town. As you enter San Gimignano, you’ll see electronic signs telling you which parking lots have space. The town is well prepared for the daily onslaught of visitors.
From the parking lots, take the elevator up as far as it goes (not far) and then take the short walk into the historic centre of San Gimignano.
What To See in San Gimignano
San Gimignano’s main attraction is the town itself–the cobbled streets, the towers, the Tuscan ambience.
But you’ll also find several worthwhile attractions to explore, including my favorite, San Gimignano 1300.
San Gimignano 1300
The San Gimignano 1300 (#1) museum contains an amazing scale model of San Gimignano as it appeared in the year 1300 with its 72 towers intact.
Not long after I started my novel, The Towers of Tuscany, about a woman painter in the 14th century, I came across the website for San Gimignano 1300.
I could not believe my luck! Someone had very thoughtfully recreated the entire city in which much of the novel’s action takes place.
I had to see it! A few months after I found San Gimignano 1300 on the web, I was there in person. Few things get in the way of an historical novelist on a research warpath!
A portion of the scale model of San Gimignano at San Gimignano 1300
San Gimignano 1300 moved to a smaller venue a few years after I first saw it. The model is now divided into two sections, but you still get a good sense of how the city must have looked in 1300.
The staff at San Gimignano 1300 are lovely. I’ve returned several times in the last few years to replenish their supply of The Towers of Tuscany.
With the manager of San Gimignano 1300 where The Towers of Tuscany is available
Frescoes, Frescoes, and More Frescoes
Unlike many Italian towns, San Gimignano is stuck in a medieval time warp. Most of the best art was created during the Middle Ages rather than the Renaissance.
I’m a medieval girl at heart and prefer the flatter, more stylized work of the medieval painters to the florid, somewhat over-produced paintings of the Renaissance.
Museo Civico
The first stop for art lovers should be the frescoes in the Museo Civico. Painted by Memmo de Filippuccio and his son Lippo Memmi in 1317, the frescoes portray scenes of everyday life.
Such scenes were a rarity at a time when the vast majority of frescoes and paintings depicted religious subjects.
I like best the two scenes showing a newly married couple first enjoying a communal bath together (ooh la la) and then climbing into bed.
Detail from a fresco by Memmo de Filippuccio & Lippo Memmi in the Museo Civico in San Gimignano
The scene depicting the couple getting into bed shows them as naked. While researching The Towers of Tuscany, I learned that people often slept naked to get a break from the wee beasties that infested their heavy gowns. Also, I imagine that summers in San Gimignano were as hot in the 14th century as they are today.
Another fabulous fresco in the Museo Civico is The Maestà by Lippo Memmi. Commissioned in 1317, the fresco is said to have been inspired by Simone Martini’s Maestà from the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena.
The fresco shows Mary seated on a throne surrounded by adoring saints and angels.
Frescoes in the Cathedral of San Gimignano
Other frescoes worth seeing in San Gimignano cover the walls of the cathedral (the Duomo – #2) in the Piazza Duomo in the town center.
One set, painted by Bartolo di Fredi in 1356, depicts scenes from the Old Testament. I particularly like the figure of Noah lying drunk on the ground, his gown open to reveal that he is definitely not wearing his boxer shorts. There’s nothing new under the sun!
Another set of frescoes depicting Hell was painted by Benozzo Gozzoli in 1465. The frescoes are terrifyingly realistic. You might want to avoid them if you’re traveling with children.
Torre Grossa
The tallest tower in San Gimignano, at 54 meters (178 feet), is the Torre Grossa (#3), part of the Palazzo Comunale where the Museo Civico is housed.
It’s worth the effort to climb to the top and see the stunning view. If it’s a fine day, go early or late to avoid the crowds.
Torre Grossa in San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy
Here’s an option for tickets to the Torre Grossa and the Duomo:
Ahhhh….! The tour buses have puffed their way down the hill, the shops are shuttered, and peace descends.
Thanks to floodlit towers, the darkness never gets close to the black intensity of the olden days, but your imagination can still get a workout.
You’ll find plenty of good places to eat in San Gimignano. In recent years, the town has become something of a mecca for gourmets. But wherever you decide to eat, make sure you order a glass or two of the delightfully white vernaccia di San Gimignano wine.
Afterwards, walk off the dinner and wine with a stroll through the fast emptying piazzas. The later it gets, the quieter the streets become.
And, unlike in the 14th century, walking the streets of San Gimignano after dark is not dangerous. No assassins are intent on revenging a vendetta; no watchmen are standing by to clamp into irons people ignoring curfews.
When to Visit
The best times for a visit to San Gimignano are late spring when the surrounding countryside is drenched in the freshest greens imaginable and in September/October when golden light and crisp days make sightseeing a pleasure.
Just remember to take along a rain jacket and a sweater.
Where to Stay in San Gimignano
In your Tuscany itinerary, allocate at least one night and preferably two nights to staying near San Gimignano. Most bus tours pop in and out for a few hours, staying just long enough for people to sip a cappuccino, climb a tower, and go shopping.
If you really want to experience this lovely town, stay a while, preferably at one of the lovely hotels in the gorgeous countryside Here are three options, all of which I’ve stayed in and can heartily recommend.
Cappuccina Country Resort is situated north of San Gimignano and commands a wonderful view of the towers from its swimming pool
Also north of San Gimignano is the lovely Villa Ducci with friendly staff and rooms overlooking the towers.
Hotel Pescille is on the opposite side of San Gimignano. Ask for a room that overlooks the valley with the towers of San Gimignano beyond.
Tours to San Gimignano
One way to see San Gimignano if you don’t have a car is on a day trip from Florence. If you’re short on time, then taking a tour that drops you at the gates of this enchanting city is certainly better than not visiting at all! Here’s an option with GetYourGuide that includes Siena and a wine tour.
I’ve had great luck finding marvelous places to stay in Italy.
Hotel proprietors are friendly, and these days almost all of them speak English.
In this post, I provide general tips about accommodations in Italy and list hotels I recommend.
Choosing a Room
To Book or Not to Book?
I book almost all the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home so I know I’ll have places to stay in every location. While traveling, I sometimes change bookings to follow a new route or in response to hearing about a cool location I hadn’t known about.
TIP: Stay flexible when you travel. You never know when you might meet someone who recommends a festival or event or exhibition. More than once, I’ve altered an itinerary to attend a special exhibition or visit a new attraction.
Choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book and then cancel hotel reservations as your itinerary changes. Most sites offer you a no-cancellation option at a lower price. I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel. For example, I’ll select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from because I know those locations won’t change.
But overall, stay flexible. I’ve learned from experience that sticking to a rigid itinerary with no-cancellation accommodations can end up costing you more money than you save.
Breakfasts – Prima Colazione
Breakfasts in Italy usually consist of scrumptious pastries, fresh fruit, dry cereal, cold meats and cheeses, and coffee. I only eat the hotel breakfast if it’s included in the room rate or if I didn’t get a chance to buy food before checking in.
Buffet breakfast at an Italian hotel
If hotel breakfasts cost extra (and the cost can be exorbitant), I buy yogurt and fruit at a local grocery store and then go to a bar or café for my morning cappuccino.
Location
In Italy in particular, I only stay in the center of a town or city if I’m not driving. As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, driving into medieval hill towns can be a nightmare, and driving into cities like Rome is definitely not recommended!
A great advantage of traveling in Italy by public transit is that you can choose to stay in picturesque and historic town centers (centros). Grab a taxi from the train station and let your driver negotiate the tiny cobbled alleyways while you enjoy watching the passing throngs and imagining yourself back in the Middle Ages.
Tips for Drivers in Italy
When driving in Italy, I book places on the outskirts of the town or city and then take trams or taxis into the centro for sightseeing. In rural areas, like Tuscany and Umbria, I always book places located in the gorgeous countryside so I can take walks and, if it’s hot, enjoy a dip in the pool.
When selecting a hotel outside a city, I usually opt for a modern business hotel that includes free parking. Chains such as NH, Blu, and Best Western are generally reliable.
TIP: For a taste of la dolce vita, consider booking an agriturismo property for a week or more in a rural area. Attached to a working farm or vineyard, these properties provide you with opportunities to meet local families and to sample local food.
Star Rating
Over the years, I’ve stayed in many clean and well-run budget hotels in Italy, but these days I favor three- or four-star properties because I appreciate amenities such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, and in-room WIFI.
I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters will be small, with a child-size shower stall and barely enough room to wedge your suitcase against the wall.
Reviews – Should You Care?
Yes, I pay attention to reviews. If a property’s aggregate review is under 8.0 out of a possible 10, I usually pass. Sometimes the difference between a property with a 9.6 review and one with an 8.2 review is only a few euros, and yet the quality of the higher-rated property makes the extra money worth spending.
You have to take reviews with a grain of salt, however. Just because a property has a score of 9.8 doesn’t meant it’s five-star luxury. Check the star rating, remember that a 9.8 score for a two-star hotel is not the same as a 9.8 for a four-star, and proceed accordingly.
TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in Italy and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.
Accommodation Options by Region
To help you plan your Italy getaway, here are my recommendations. For each destination, I describe properties I’ve stayed in along and suggest alternate properties that look good.
You can click the link to the hotel to make a reservation with booking.com.
Northern Italy
Turin
The Parco Hotel Sassi, located 4 kilometers from Turin, worked well for us when we were driving from France to Italy. We checked the pictures of the hotel and noted it was surrounded by the greenery of the Po Natural Park. When booking hotels on the outskirts of a town, make sure you don’t end up in a dreary suburb. Parco Hotel Sassi is situated in an attractive area outside of Turin.
We appreciated the large rooms, beautiful grounds, and proximity to a family restaurant that served one of the best meals we’ve had in Italy. We left the car in the free car park and hopped the tram to get into Turin.
On another trip to Turin, we stayed in an apartment in the heart of the city. This was a great choice because we were staying in Turin for ten days and wanted to be able to walk everywhere. We parked our car in an underground lot nearby.
Called the Casa Vittoria, the two-0bedroom, well-appointed apartment was great value and in an excellent location for exploring lovely Turin.
Milan
I can’t recommend the nondescript 3-star hotel we stayed in while visiting Milan a few years ago. It was located near the train station and was a bit on the dark and small side. I don’t recommend getting places too close to the train station in big cities. In my experience, such hotels tend to be rather soul-less!
I’ve provided two options located in the lively center of Milan for travelers who are not traveling by car (take a taxi from the train station). If you are traveling by car, check the maps and select a hotel located near the main highway of your route into the city. Note that Milan is not as crazy to drive in as, say, Rome. However, it is a big city, and, as a rule, steering clear of big cities is the less stressful option. After all, you’re on vacation!
I once stayed in a teeny tiny room in a business hotel near Malpensa airport, but I can’t recommend it unless you have an early flight to catch.
In central Milan, Antica Locanda Dei Mercanti looks like an excellent, relatively high-end choice located close to the Sforza Castle and featuring terraces and views. The reviews are excellent, and the rooms appear quite spacious. The hotel includes an airport shuttle, but parking is €38 a day so probably not the best choice for drivers.
Also in central Milan, Hotel Gran Duca Di York is a three-star hotel in an excellent location near the Duomo. Ratings are good, although room sizes are not specified for all room types, and some look small. However, the price is reasonable, considering it’s Milan..
Have a look at the map below for additional accommodation options in Milan.
The Hotel Magdalener-Hof, high on a hill above Bolzano, was a perfect stop for us when we were en route to Venice after crossing into Italy through the Brenner Pass from Austria. We had a dip in the pool overlooking the view and then caught the local bus into Bolzano to wander its colorful streets before enjoying dinner at a restaurant on the town square. At the end of the evening, we grabbed a taxi back to the hotel for about €5–much easier and less stressful than driving into town and looking for parking.
Dolomites
We drove up into the Dolomites to the picturesque Alpine village of Seis and stayed in the Parc Hotel Florian. The view from our balcony of needle-sharp Mount Schlern looming above the village was fabulous–exactly the view of the Dolomites I’d hoped for. The hotel included a hearty dinner, which was great because restaurant options in the area were limited. The hotel makes a good home base if you plan to spend a few days in the area and take lifts up to the Alpe di Siusi to go hiking.
Venice and Ravenna
Venice
If you have the time, rent an apartment in Venice and stay for a week. Live like a local, not that you’ll see many locals these days. Venetians are moving out of the city at an alarming rate. But at least you’ll experience shopping in tiny local grocery stores and get to know your way around a neighborhood.
If you’re staying in Venice for two or three days, consider the Dorsoduro district across the Grand Canal from the Piazza San Marco. I recommend you avoid the area immediately adjacent to Piazza San Marco. Hotels there can be expensive, and the tiny streets in the area are wall-to-wall tourists during the day.
Here are suggestions for hotels that we have stayed in–one in the Dorsoduro and one near the Rialto Bridge.
Hotel Canaletto: We stayed there a few years ago and loved it. The rooms were small, but that’s par for the course in Venice. The location, just 200 meters from Rialto Bridge, was fantastic as was its situation on a charming side canal.
Hotel Messner is a more modest option, located in the Dorsoduro neighborhood close to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. It was quiet, and the area was peaceful and uncrowded, particularly at night.
For other options in Venice, check the map below. Resist the temptation to stay on the mainland. The savings will be minimal once you take into account train fares and your time. Stay in the middle of Venice and enjoy this unique city.
We were driving when we visited Ravenna, so we stayed at the Grand Hotel Mattei, about a ten-minute taxi ride from the center of Ravenna. The hotel was large and modern and included free parking–a perfect choice! When we’re driving in Italy, convenience usually wins out over charm.
The map below shows more options in and around Ravenna.
We’ve stayed in marvelous hotels and bed-and-breakfasts in Tuscany–some in the countryside and some in the towns. You’ll find amazing villa properties in Tuscany and pay equally amazing prices. Most of my suggestions are in the modest €80-150 per night range.
Florence
One of the best weeks I spent in Florence was at a rented house high above the city, near Fiesole. While swimming in the pool, we could see the Duomo shimmering in the distance. If you have the time and a car, consider renting a house a few kilometers outside Florence. You can then drive to one of the parking lots on the perimeter of the city and catch a bus into the centro.
Here are two suggestions for hotels I’ve stayed at in central Florence.
Hotel Pitti Palace at Ponte Vecchio is a great choice because it’s across the Ponte Vecchio in the atmospheric and marginally less crowded San Giovanni district. I stayed there on a solo trip to Florence and was especially taken by the views from the rooftop bar. Highly recommended.
View from the rooftop bar at the Hotel Pitti Palace in Florence
The Hotel Alba Palace is an elegant property in a good location near Santa Maria Novella Basilica.
If you’re driving, you do not want to drive into central Florence. Instead, find a place on the outskirts and take a bus. Here are two places we’ve stayed in that I recommend.
The Hotel Ungherese is a two-star, budget option that includes a statue-filled garden, views over Florence, spacious rooms, and easy parking. It’s a good bargain and not far from Florence on the local bus. The Hilton Garden Hotel Florence Novoli is a four-star, reasonably-priced property a 15-minute bus ride from the center of Florence. The hotel is slick and modern and lacking in charm. However, it’s easy to find, and parking is underground and secure.
For other accommodation options in Florence, check the map below.
I heartily recommend three places outside the walls of San Gimignano that I’ve stayed in over the years. My favorite is the Hotel Pescille which I’ve stayed in at least four times since we discovered it back in 1999!
Hotel Pescille: This three-star establishment has a killer view over the valley to the towers of San Gimignano. I keep returning to the Hotel Pescille for its simple but comfortable rooms, its fabulous location in the Tuscan countryside, and the rustic furnishings. The walls in the common areas are decorated with farm implements, and ceramic pumpkins adorn niches and stairwells. The Hotel Pescille is located about a five-minute drive south of San Gimignano.
On our most recent trip, we took several walks near the hotel to admire the view. Here’s a shot of San Gimignano from a vantage point close to the Hotel Pescille. Look at those clouds!
I give you San Gimignano!
Relais Cappuccina: On the north side of San Gimignano, the Relais Cappuccina affords a different–and equally stunning–panoramic view of San Gimignano than that of the Hotel Pescille. The pool at this hotel is lovely, thanks to its situation overlooking San Gimignano. Our room was spacious and bright and included a terrace.
The swimming pool at the Relais Cappuccina with San Gimignano in the distance
Villa Ducci: I stayed here on my own while researching my novel, The Towers of Tuscany, and loved it. The staff were friendly and helpful. They even allowed me to view the cellar with its 14th-century foundations that later played a role in the novel. The Villa Ducci, like the Relais Cappuccina, is located on the north side of San Gimignano. Here’s a sunrise view of the town I snapped one morning.
The map below shows more options for staying in or near San Gimignano. If you’re traveling without a car, consider one of the hotels in the center of the town so you can enjoy moonlit strolls around the medieval streets before turning in.
Palazzo Masi: This small bed-and-breakfast in the center of Siena is steps from the Campo and located in a building that dates from the 14th century. I stayed here while researching The Towers of Tuscany. It’s a great choice if you’re not driving in Siena.
Athena Hotel: This is a wonderful choice if you’re driving because it’s located just inside the city walls and easily accessible. The rooms are large and the views over the countryside spectacular. We’ll stay there again, for sure.
Check the map for more accommodation options in Siena. If you’re driving, choose properties at or near the city walls rather than in the center of the city where access is tight and parking at a premium.
Casale Dinelli: This is a lovely agriturismo property near Tarquinia, consisting of two small guest cottages set in beautiful grounds that included vegetable gardens we were welcome to raid.
Charming cottage accommodations at the Casale Dinelli
Breakfast food supplied; strawberries fresh from the garden
Umbria
We stayed for ten days in Umbria in an amazing apartment attached to the gallery where Gregg had an exhibition. Located outside the lovely little town of Gualdo Tadino, the place made a wonderful home base for exploring the principal towns of Umbria.
Because we chose a homestay for our Umbria visit in 2018, most of my recommendations for these towns are based on user reviews rather than personal experience. We did, however, stay in the Hotel Valentino in Orvieto the first time we visited Umbria.
Assisi
The Vico del Poeta looks like an excellent, medieval bed-and- breakfast in Assisi. Reviews are good, and free parking is included (always a bonus!).
Grand Hotel Assisi: I like the look of this place–panoramic views, a swimming pool, and a reasonable price.
Orvieto
Hotel Valentino is situated in the centro storico (the historical center) of Orvieto but is accessible by car. We loved being in the middle of the medieval action here–able to stroll the cobbled streets after all the crowds were gone. The hotel itself is old and rather dark but comfortable and clean. A solid choice.
Agriturismo Podere Pescara is located in the countryside near Orvieto. The surroundings look amazing! Very Tuscan.
Perugia
Sangallo Palace includes balconies, views, and what looks to be a lovely ambiance near Perugia.
Marche
I have to put in a plug for the Hotel Emilia, high on a cliff overlooking the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy. If you drive east through Umbria, you’ll likely end up in the Marche, the biggest city being Ancona on the coast. Once a bit off the tourist track, the region is getting more popular and for good reason.
The Hotel Emilia is wonderful; stunning views and fabulous modern sculptures and paintings decorate the grounds and public rooms. We stayed for two nights, relaxing in the gardens overlooking the misty view of the legend-shrouded Adriatic, taking long walks along the cliff top, and enjoying a beachside dinner in the village of Portonovo a few minutes’ drive down the hill. We were there in May, which is still the off-season. I gather that in the summer, the beach is mobbed!
View over Portonovo from the Hotel Emilia
Rome
We tend to favor apartments when staying in Rome. Our favorite location is in the tiny streets leading into the Piazza Navona. One year we had an apartment that included a rooftop terrace! Hotels are plentiful but not budget-friendly in Rome. Here are two hotels and one apartment I’ve stayed in that I recommend.
Deko Rome is a small bed-and-breakfast located close to the Borghese Gardens in a lovely residential area of Rome. I stayed there when I traveled to Rome on my own and found it comfortable and budget-friendly.
Hotel Paba is a small, two-star hotel that occupies the second floor of a residential building conveniently located on the Via Cavour, not far from the Colosseum. In fact, you can see the Colosseum from the street. The decor is old-fashioned and cosy and the price reasonable, considering the central location.
Viam 16B Suites is probably my very favorite suite hotel I’ve stayed in anywhere in Europe. It’s stylish, includes a private terrace, and is located in a great area of Rome – close to the Piazza Popolo and the Spanish Steps.
Check the map for more accommodation options in Rome. I suggest the area around the Piazza Navona or the less touristy Trastevere.
We stayed in the Hotel Paradiso. Located on Posillipo Hill, the hotel has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.
Sorrento
The Hotel Eden has a central location in Sorrento, with rooms on the upper floors overlooking the stunning view of the Bay of Naples. Lush gardens and a pool provide a welcome oasis. This is a good choice for Sorrento, although not budget-friendly.
Positano
We didn’t stay in Positano, so my recommendations are based on what I think looks good. Prices are high in this holiday mecca, so if Positano is above your price range, consider staying longer in Sorrento and taking a day tour down the Amalfi coast.
In Positano, the über posh Sirenuse Hotel is über expensive, but if you’re budget runs to it – wowee! Scenes from Only You were filmed there.
A more budget-friendly option is the Villa Antonietta that still has sea views but is much more modestly appointed.
Paestum
The Hotel Savoy, steps from the beach near Paestum is an awesome place to stay. It’s super luxurious and yet surprisingly affordable.
Tours & Tickets in Italy
Here are some options to explore through GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com, both companies I’ve booked with several times, and had good experiences.
Do you have accommodation recommendations to share? Please let me know in the Comments section. I’m always on the lookout for new places to stay in Italy. I’m always on the lookout for new places to stay in Italy.
Here are some more posts to enjoy while you’re planning your trip to Italy:
You could easily spend several days just focusing your sightseeing energies on ancient Roman sites. They’re everywhere! But top of the list are the Colosseum and the Forum, the Domus Aurea (if you’re in Rome on a Saturday or Sunday), and the Pantheon.
Colosseum and Forum
Start your day with an early visit to the Colosseum followed by a wander through the Forum. Of the two Roman sites, the Colosseum gets the most crowded, so be sure to see it first. Alternatively, tour the Colosseum and Forum later in the day when the crowds may be less.
Also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, the iconic Colosseum has become the symbol of Rome. Construction of the Colosseum began in AD 72 by order of the Emperor Vespasian and was completed in AD 80. It was the largest colosseum in the world with a capacity of 50,000 spectators.
Seeing it now, you’ll be hard-pressed to believe that it held that many people.
I was a bit underwhelmed the first time I saw the interior of the Colosseum. My imagination couldn’t quite conjure the scenes of wild animals tormenting terrified Christians, which is probably just as well.
That said, put the Colosseum at the top of your Rome sightseeing list. Just make sure to buy your tickets in advance for both the Colosseum and the Forum.
Another option is to book a nighttime tour of the Colosseum that takes you to the Colosseum’s underground corridors, the arena, and the first ring of the seating area. I haven’t taken this tour, but it sounds intriguing and crowd-free (always a selling point for me).
Purchase tickets here for the Colosseum Nighttime tour.
Domus Aurea
The Domus Aurea is in the vicinity of the Forum and Colosseum. We visited the Domus Aurea in 2001, not long after it opened in 1999 when we were able to wander freely around the massive excavated rooms. The site was closed in 2005 and reopened in 2007, with more galleries added in 2015. The number of visitors is now restricted, with everyone required to wear a helmet.
Built by the Emperor Nero in 64 AD, the Domus Aurea had 300 rooms and occupied about 50 hectares–and was used exclusively for parties. That Nero was some kind of party animal.
Visit the Domus Aurea by guided tour and only on Saturdays and Sundays. If you can get tickets, go. The guided tour consists of a twelve-stage itinerary that includes a virtual reality installation in the Sala della Volta Dorata. Visitors are purportedly transported to an ancient, rich, and magical world.
The area around the Pantheon in central Rome is always hopping. Visit later in the day when the crowds are thinning.
The Pantheon is remarkable for its dome–still the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome, which is amazing, considering the Pantheon was built 2,000 years ago. Thanks to continuous use for two millennia, the Pantheon is one of the best-preserved buildings from ancient Rome. Originally a temple, the Pantheon is now a church.
See the Pantheon on your own or, for a few euros more, take a guided tour.
After touring the Pantheon, treat yourself to a gelato and watch the world go by from one of the cafés bordering the piazza in front of the Pantheon. I still remember fondly the fig gelato I sampled while visiting the area.
Spend the evening getting lost in the maze of streets leading from the Pantheon to the Piazza Navona and then find a place for dinner. Choose small restaurants on side streets that are filled with locals.
The area around the Piazza Navona is my favorite part of Rome.
Day 2: Catholic Rome
Rome bristles with churches, some dating back to Roman times and most containing priceless works of art, particularly from the Renaissance and Baroque eras. You can’t see all the churches in one day, nor should you try!
Focus first on St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum and then go back across the Tiber to visit San Pietro di Vincoli and the Basilica of San Clemente.
St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum
A visit to St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum requires stamina. Line-ups are inevitable even with advance tickets. You can’t avoid the long, sweaty trek through room after room of the Vatican Museum before finally arriving in the Sistine Chapel.
But the trek is worth it. Just make sure you buy your tickets for the Vatican Museum well in advance.
Sistine Chapel
The Sistine Chapel heaves with tourists. There’s no escaping them (and you are one of them!) so just tilt your head back and admire Michelangelo’s ceiling. My favorite memory of the Sistine Chapel is when, on my first visit at the age of 18, I heard a woman behind me say to her companion, “Do y’all think it was done by hand?” I resisted the temptation to turn around and tell her it was paint by numbers.
Buy your tickets in advance to visit the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museum.
The Sistine Chapel was restored by Pope Sixtus IV, famous for his patronage of the arts. He also makes an appearance in the TV series Medici, which I write about in a post over on my sister website, Art In Fiction. Pope Julius II is responsible for commissioning Michelangelo to cover the ceiling with his magnificent frescoes between 1508 and 1512.
St. Peter’s Basilica is a must-see because it is humongous. My favorite part is viewing the size of various world cathedrals marked in the nave. Washington’s National Cathedral is marked at 139 meters, which is about half the length of St. Peter’s nave.
The last time I visited St. Peter’s, the organ was at full volume and wow! Transfixing, for sure.
I love the exterior of St. Peter’s. A gorgeous double sweep of Bernini columns embraces two sides of the square.
A section of the Bernini columns at St. Peter’s Basilica
Castel Sant-Angelo
On your way back over the Tiber to central Rome, you’ll pass by the Castel Sant’Angelo. Also known as the Mausoleum of Hadrian, the site technically belongs with the ancient Rome Day 1 itinerary. However, its location near St. Peter’s and the Vatican makes it a good stop on Day 2.
Originally built to be the mausoleum for the Roman Emperor Hadrian and his family, the structure was later used by the popes as a fortress and castle and is now the Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo.
Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome
The museum is a worthwhile stop, primarily because of the view of Rome seen from the top. Go at sunset for some great photo ops. The area around Castel Sant’Angelo teems with tourists, so a view like the one below is virtually impossible!
Cross the bridge from the Castel Sant’Angelo and plunge back into medieval Rome. Stay around the Piazza Navona for the rest of the day, enjoying gelatos and people-watching, or continue your Catholic Rome wanderings by visiting two more churches.
Take a bus or a taxi back towards the Colosseum area to find San Pietro in Vincoli.
TIP: To get around Rome, consider taking taxis and busses. Taxi drivers skillfully weave through the dense traffic–better them than me! Prices are reasonable and worth it to save your feet. Busses in Rome are also a good bet. Use your phone to familiarize yourself with the bus routes. I prefer riding the bus to riding the metro (which has limited routes) because then I can watch Rome go by.
San Pietro in Vincoli
Not far from the Colosseum are a few churches worth visiting, particularly San Pietro in Vincoli (Saint Peter in Chains) where Michelangelo’s statue of Moses dominates the side altar.
Whenever I’ve visited this church, it’s been quiet and uncrowded. I love standing in front of the Moses statue and admiring the way Michelangelo sculpted Moses’s hands. Truly remarkable.
Marble statue of Moses sculpted by Michelangelo in the San Pietro in Vincoli church in Rome
Basilica of San Clemente
Located not far from the Colosseum, the Basilica of San Clemente appeals to me because it was built on the site of a house containing a shrine of the Roman god Mithras. An underground passage leads to the excavated foundations of the 2nd-century Roman house. A relief on the altar shows the Persian sun god, Mithras, killing a bull.
The underground area is super dark and creepy, providing great scope for the imagination.
Day 3: Pastoral Rome
Rome is not all churches and ruins. It also has the marvelous Borghese Gardens, the atmospheric Trastevere region, and the achingly pastoral Appian Way, several metro stops from the center of the city.
See the Galleria Borghese and the Borghese Gardens in the morning, zip out to the Appian Way for lunch and a lovely afternoon stroll, then end your day with dinner in the Trastevere neighborhood across the Tiber from central Rome.
Borghese Gardens and the Galleria Borghese
Head to the Borghese Gardens and tour the Galleria Borghese. You must get tickets ahead of time. This stunning gallery reopened recently after being renovated. You’ll see some of the masterpieces of the Baroque age, including works by Caravaggio and the famous sculpture of Apollo and Daphne and The Rape of Proserpina by Bernini.
I first saw Bernini’s sculptures when I visited Rome in 1974. Works of that quality were thin on the ground in the Vancouver suburb where I’d grown up, so I was understandably impressed. Check out the way Pluto’s fingers press into Proserpina’s flesh and then remember that you’re looking at marble.
The Rape of Proserpina by Bernini in the Galleria Borghese: Buy tickets in advance
Amazing!
After partaking of the Baroque delights at the Galleria Borghese, spare an hour or so to wander around the gardens of the Villa Borghese. On a solo trip to Rome a few years ago, I stayed in a bed-and-breakfast about a block from the park and enjoyed early-morning strolls alongside Roman joggers.
Appian Way
In the afternoon, depending on the weather and your energy level, consider taking the metro out to the Appian Way (Via Appia Antica).
You’re transported from noisy modern Rome to an Arcadian landscape of plane trees and cypresses lining the original Roman road. Rent a bike or just stroll along the stone roadbed, imagining Roman chariots rumbling past.
Gregg and I spent a magical afternoon there, communing with the ghosts of the Roman rich people whose tombs line the road. The peace and quiet soothed nerves that can get a bit overstimulated by the hustle and traffic of downtown Rome.
The beautifully pastoral and peaceful Appian Way outside Rome
Trastevere
Spend an evening strolling the quiet streets of the Trastevere neighborhood. The working-class area still feels authentic and Roman. Find a small restaurant overlooking one of the piazzas and settle in for dinner.
Trastevere is located on the same side of the Tiber as St. Peter’s Basilica, about a ten-minute bus ride alongside the river.
Cobbled street in the charming Trastevere area of Rome
Here’s a good article about what to do and see in Trastevere.
Tours in Rome
Here are some tours offered by Tiqets.com:
And here are some tours offered through GetYourGuide:
Fancy a walking tour? The tours offered through GuruWalks are a good bet. Here are their tours in Rome.
Where to Stay in Rome
If you’re staying in Rome for more than two or three nights, consider renting an apartment. I’ve had good luck with VRBO and booking.com. When you stay in an apartment, you live like a temporary local, buying food from the local markets, and getting to know neighborhood restaurants and cafés.
Here are some good options:
The Sant’Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome, very close to a lot of Roman ruins in addition to the Capitoline Museum and the Piazza Venezia, site of the Victor Emmanuel monument. The apartment was quite spacious and the location can’t be beat for exploring ancient Rome.
I also recommend Viam 6B located between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Popolo–a very upscale and chi-chi part of Rome with lots of designer stores. The apartment was very modern and comfortable and included a beautiful outdoor terrace.
This one-week itinerary for touring Nothern Italy provides a taste of stately Turin and sophisticated Milan, along with the deliciously jagged Dolomite mountains and the Italian Lakes.
Although my itinerary covers the high points, consider spending more time at the lakes (Maggiore, Orta, Como, Iseo, and Garda) or hiking in the Dolomites. The views are stunning and the livin’ easy.
Why Tour Northern Italy?
This area of Italy is sometimes skipped in favor of Tuscany, Umbria, Rome and beyond to the Campania and Sicily. But I loved touring Northern Italy because it’s like a different country compared to other regions of Italy.
It’s still Italian with great food and plenty of amazing cultural sights, but it also feels much more Germanic as a result of its proximity to Austria, Switzerland, and Germany. I found the people more reserved than their southern neighbors, albeit still helpful and friendly.
Interesting Cities
The two main cities in Northern Italy are Turin and Milan. There are also some wonderful places to explore in the Veneto, such as Padua and Vicenza, but in this post, I’m focusing only on the area from Turin in the far west near the border with France to Bolzano near the border with Austria in the north.
Turin and Milan are both worth a few days of your time.
Milan Cathedral–a must-see in Northern Italy
Stunning Landscapes
The other reason for spending time in Northern Italy is to explore the spectacular landscapes of the Italian Lakes and the Dolomites.
Getting Around Northern Italy
Taking Trains and Tours
You can travel easily by train between Turin and Milan and then take day tours to explore the Italian lakes and some nearby cities. See the section on the Italian Lakes below for suggested day tours of the lakes that depart from Milan.
Driving in Northern Italy
If you’re driving, you’ll be able to explore more of the Dolomites and take side trips to cities like Verona. We found driving in Northern Italy to be quite easy, although the traffic around Milan can be horrendous. There are a lot of roads and a lot of people.
Turn on your GPS and focus. More than a few times, we’ve missed turn-offs and ended up navigating spaghetti-like mazes of roads before finding our way to where we needed to be.
Drivers can travel right up into the Dolomites along twisty mountain roads and check out charming towns like Bolzano. On the other hand, you don’t need a car in Turin and Milan. We book hotels on the outskirts that have free parking and then take a tram or bus into the city center.
Overview of A One-Week Itinerary in Northern Italy
Here’s my suggested one-week itinerary in Northern Italy:
One night in Turin
Four nights in Milan with a day trip to the Lakes OR two nights in Milan and two nights at Lake Como
Two nights in the Dolomites
Highlights of your one-week itinerary include visiting the Museo Egizio in Milan, taking a boat trip on one of the lakes, touring Milan Catheral, and hiking in the Dolomites.
Turin
Located in the northwest corner of Northern Italy near the French border, Turin (Torino in Italian) is an unpretentious city with a lovely central core and the not-to-be-missed Museo Egizio–one of the largest museums in the world solely dedicated to ancient Egypt.
I recommend you stay at least one night in Turin and spend a half-day exploring the Museo Egizio.
Museo Egizio
The Museo Egizio is enormous and can be very crowded.
Buy your tickets in advance and go early. The three floors are packed with beautifully curated exhibits. If you’re an ancient Egypt fan, you’ll be in heaven. And even if ancient Egypt isn’t your thing, you’ll find plenty to entertain you.
Here are some options for touring the Museo Egizio and Turin:
Staying in Turin
We were driving when we visited Turin, so we chose a hotel that was a little ways from the centro. The restful Parco Hotel Sassi fit the bill. We parked the car for free, relaxed for a while on our terrace overlooking beautiful grounds, and then took a short tram ride into Turin. Highly recommended.
Torino’s Piazza Castello with tramway
After our afternoon in Turin touring the Museo Egizio and walking around the large central piazza, we took the tram back to the hotel and walked to a local restaurant for dinner. The place was empty when we arrived and packed with locals by the time we left.
That meal ranks as one of our most memorable, both for the food and for the friendliness of the servers. We were the only tourists in the place.
TIP: Seek out restaurants recommended by your hotel and that are frequented by locals. If you go when the restaurant opens (usually around 7 pm), you’ll have the place to yourself. If you prefer conviviality and noise with your pasta and pizza, wait a few hours to join the crowds of Italian families that start pouring in around 9 pm.
The area around Turin is called the Piedmont and was the location of many of the sports venues used for the 2006 Olympics. If you have extra time, spend a day or two driving around this scenic area.
Milan
On both of my visits to Milan, I was struck by how stately and calm this Northern Italian city is, particularly compared to Rome and Naples.
I remember riding in a taxi on my first trip to Milan. We’d just taken the train from wonderful, frenetic Naples where a taxi ride was an adventure and stop signs merely suggestions, and spent several days in Rome. In Milan, the driver swung us into lanes of slow-moving, very well-behaved traffic and steered us sedately down wide avenues. I felt like I was on a main road through a particularly safe and dull Canadian suburb.
I commented to the driver that Milan seemed very different from Rome. She harrumphed and said, “This is Milan. We are not like Roma.” I got the impression she considered that a selling point.
I’m always fascinated by regional differences within a country. Certainly the differences betwen the north and the south in Italy are particularly noticeable!
Milan is Different
The taxi driver was right. Milan is not like its more rambunctious southern neighbors. The streets are wide and the city quite spread out. Traffic is dense. However, people actually drive in the correct lanes and avoid piling into intersections and honking.
Although Rome is notorious for its pickpockets, the only time we encountered petty theft in Italy was in Milan. At our hotel near the train station, Gregg witnessed the theft of the hotel manager’s wallet from the front desk when the manager’s back was turned. The manager gave chase but to no avail. So, the moral of that story is to never leave your valuables unattended.
On the other hand, I once left my purse containing our passports and my wallet on the counter at a very seedy hotel in Nice, only for it to still be there when, in a panic, I returned thirty minutes later.
You never know, but always err on the side of caution.
Top Sights in Milan
On a one-week itinerary touring Northern Italy, Milan is worth at least two days of your time or one very full day. I suggest you spend four days in Milan and spend one or two of them taking day tours to the Italian Lakes or spending two nights in Milan and driving to the lakes for another two nights.
If you enjoy shopping, set aside an afternoon to check out what’s on offer in Italy’s most sophisticated fashion city.
Here are the big draws in Milan.
The Duomo of Milan
The Milan Duomo is one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in Christendom, with a roof bristling with a forest of spires topped with sculptures. Make sure to buy your tickets in advance to avoid the long lines (see tour suggestions below).
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
After visiting the Duomo, head across the piazza to enter the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Billed as an aesthetically pleasing shopping arcade, the Galleria is worth escaping into from the sun or rain to browse designer shops, such as Louis Vuitton and Prada if your budget stretches that far, or to enjoy a coffee and pastry if it doesn’t.
The 19th-century glass ceiling is magnificent.
La Scala Opera House
La Scala is located at the far end of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. You’ll reach it after walking through the galleria from the Duomo. As one of the world’s most famous opera houses, it’s a must-see for music fans. Book a guided tour of the auditorium and the attached museum.
Sforza Castle
Wander through the hip Brera district, with its funky boutiques and trendy bars, to get to the imposing Sforza Castle (Castello Sforzesco).
If you’re a fan of the Medici series on Netflix (I’ve written a post about it over on Art In Fiction), you’ll remember Galeazzo Maria Sforza, one of the Sforza family’s most famous dukes. He was renowned both for his cruelty and for his patronage of music. Spoiler alert: he meets a bad end in Season 2 and in real life.
The Castello Sforzesco contains several worthwhile museums as well as Michelangelo’s unfinished Pieta. Also view the sala delle asse, a room with walls and ceiling painted by da Vinci and depicting intertwining trunks with leaves and fruit.
Castello Sforzesco in Milan
Purchase your tickets to Castello Sforzesco in advance and go early to beat the crowds (as usual!). Here’s a link to the Castello Sforzesco website.
Da Vinci’s Last Supper
Leonardo da Vinci, of Mona Lisa fame (among many other things), is also renowned as the painter of The Last Supper. Located in the refectory at the monastery of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the iconic fresco tops the list of must-see places in Milan.
But make sure to pre-book! I went there without a reservation in the vain hope I’d get in, although I should have known better. Alas, ’twas not to be. The person at the ticket counter actually laughed at me when I said I wanted a ticket for that day.
Don’t make the same mistake. The Last Supper is a major tourist attraction in Milan and rightly so. If you want to see it, buy your tickets online as far in advance as possible.
As soon as you know your travel dates in Milan, buy your tickets. Don’t wait until you get to Milan. Trust me on this!
Once you do get inside to view da Vinci’s masterpiece, you can stay for only 15 minutes.
Sightseeing Options in Milan
Here’s a selection of artsy sightseeing options for touring Milan. Other sites include Leonardo – The World of Leonardo and the art gallery: Pinacoteca di Brera
This region is simply gorgeous. In fact, you’ll quickly run out of adjectives to describe the unique combo of mountain vistas and shining lake views. No wonder so many ultra-rich people have villas in the region.
My one-week itinerary of Northern Italy covers the high points of the area, but if you have more time, spend it at the lakes Maggiore, Orta, Como, Iseo, and Garda; each has its own character and charm. Your best bet for a quick visit is to take a small group tour that includes two or three of the lakes, or a boat trip.
Although a round trip of the lakes covers only about 100 miles, you’re best to find one or two spots to stay in and enjoy rather than try to see everything.
Highlights include:
Bellagio on Lake Como from where you can take ferries and water taxies to other towns on the lake. You could spend all day cruising up and down the lake, enjoying the breezes and the stunning views, and looking out for celebrities sunning themselves on the terraces of their lakeside villas.
Lake Garda is the largest of the lakes, with the northern half surrounded by mountains and the southern half flat. North is better!
Sirmione on Lake Garda is known for its thermal baths and the Rocca Scaligera, a medieval castle that overlooks the lake.
Lake Maggiore and the Barromean Islands with their ornate gardens.
Rocca Scaligera in Sirmione on Lake GardaBellagio on beautiful Lake Como in the Italian Lakes
Tours of the Italian Lakes
The Dolomites
The super-jagged, needle-like peaks of the Dolomites mountain range (the Dolomiti) have long fascinated me. They don’t look real, and yet they are. We’ve driven a few times in the area, and I’d like to return to do some hiking.
Allocate at least two days to this region during a one-week tour around Northern Italy.
Bolzano
Bolzano is a pleasant town considered the gateway to the Dolomites. We were impressed by the distinctive architecture of many of the buildings, some painted in pastel colors.
View of the city of Bolzano, Italy
A big draw in Bolzano is the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology. Visit “Ötzi”, a well-preserved mummy of a man from about 3300 BC and the world’s oldest natural human mummy.
If you’re driving, head a little farther into the mountains and base yourself in Castelrotto. From there, go hiking in the Alpe di Siusi, a large Alpine meadow. Cable cars whisk you from stations near your hotel up to the meadow.
View of peaks in the Dolomites from Alpe di Siusi
Another gorgeous location in both winter and summer is Alta Badia. Check the town’s excellent website for more information.
Carrying on South Into More Italy
If you’re driving into Italy through Bolzano, your next stop will probably be Venice. Read my recommendations for Venice and Ravenna.
If you’re driving into Italy through Turin, you’ll likely head south into Tuscany and Umbria, perhaps stopping on the way to check out the Cinque Terre.
You can also catch the high-speed train from Milan south to Florence and Rome.
Conclusion
Have you toured Northern Italy? What did you think? Do you have suggestions for must-sees (especially artsy-oriented must-sees) to share with other travelers? Add them to the comments below.
Here are more posts to help you plan your Italian travels:
If you love incredible art, gorgeous landscapes, fabulous food, and world-class wines, then consider dedicating at least a week (preferably two) to exploring Tuscany and Umbria.
Along the way, you’re sure to experience la dolce vita–the sweet life.
I’ve put together some suggested itineraries for exploring this gorgeous region of Italy. No matter how many times I return, I always find new things to see.
And I never get tired to returning to some of my old favorites like Siena and San Gimignano.
The map of Tuscany and Umbria includes all the destinations mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.
Trip map created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android
Suggested Itineraries for Exploring Tuscany & Umbria
Explore both Tuscany and Umbria by car or home-base in one or more of the towns and take day tours to others.
For Tuscany, one strategy is to spend a three nights in Florence (see my suggestions below for enjoying this most Renaissance of cities), three nights in Siena, and one or two nights in San Gimignano. During those five days in the Tuscan countryside, be sure to take a wine tour.
For Umbria, divide your time between the three main towns: Orvieto, Perugia, and Assisi, and reserve time for enjoying the rugged countryside.
If you want to explore Tuscany and Umbria by car, pick up your rental car at the Florence airport. Avoid picking your car up at the train station or some other area in central Florence. You don’t need the headache of navigating your way out of the city.
After picking up your car at the Florence airport, you’ll be out on the highway within minutes.
TIP: Bear in mind that driving in Tuscany and Umbria can be slow going. If you home-base in a specific area or town, reserve a few days for just staying put and enjoying la dolce vita. Spending every day driving the twisting, narrow roads can get tiring.
After a week (or maybe two!) in Tuscany, spend another week in Umbria if time allows. Perugia or Assisi are good choices.
Here are my recommendations for top towns to visit in Tuscany and Umbria.
Tuscany
If you have only a week to see Tuscany, I suggest you make time for Florence and two of the other towns, such as Siena (my favorite) and San Gimignano, with perhaps a day trip to one other town, such as Montalcino or Volterra.
You kinda have to visit Florence (#1 on the map) because it’s, well, Florence. A sizable percentage of Italy’s finest art is found in Florence, and you owe it to yourself to see it. Unfortunately, half of the known universe descends on Florence every day (or at least that’s how it feels). I remember wondering if the medieval Ponte Vecchio was strong enough to bear the throngs streaming across it.
Ponte Vecchio in Florence
TIP: Combat the crowds by visiting the hot spots, such as the Uffizi, the Duomo, and the Piazza della Signoria in front of the Palazzo Vecchio, early in the morning or late in the day.
During the middle of the day, opt for lesser known but still amazing sites, such as the Masaccio frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel across the river from central Florence and the Museo Nazionale di San Marco which houses the frescoes by Fra Angelico.
Here are sightseeing suggestions for Florence. Make sure you purchase tickets ahead of time for the Uffizi and the Accademia.
Siena
Spend at least two nights, preferably more, in Siena (#2). Siena is my favorite city in Tuscany, with enough great artsy sightseeing to keep you as busy as you want to be. You’ll also have time to just hang out in Siena–walk the narrow cobbled streets, relax in the Campo, and eat a great meal or two complemented by good Tuscan wine.
TIP: When you arrive in Siena, head first to the Campo. If the weather is dry, plop down on the 700-year-old bricks and soak up the history.
Piazza del Campo in Siena, Italy at twilight
The Campo can get very crowded during the day. Arrive later in the afternoon, enjoy a glass of wine at one of the cafés bordering the piazza, and watch the crowds disperse as the sun turns the Torre Mangia golden. Your glass of wine will be overpriced, but who cares? You have a ringside seat to one of Europe’s most beautiful public piazzas.
Wine Tour
Allocate one of your days in Tuscany to taking a wine tour of the region. Choose a tour that includes Montalcino, home of the scrumptious (and potent) Brunello di Montalcino. The tour I took included a marvelous three-course lunch and visits to three wineries that also included tastings. Let your guide do the driving! Here’s a good option from GetYourGuide:
Yes, it’s crowded during the day with tour busses, but once they leave, you’ll have beautiful San Gimignano (#3), medieval city of towers, all to yourself. Enjoy top-class restaurants and stroll flood-lit streets that, apart from the souvenir shops, have barely changed in 700 years.
And if you’re looking for something to read while staying in San Gimignano, consider downloading The Towers of Tuscany, my award-winning novel about a female artist in San Gimignano and Siena in the 1300s.
Stay overnight in San Gimignano so you can enjoy this magical city without the crowds. Good options are the Hotel Pescille and the Cappuccina Country Resort, both outside the city so you’ll need a car.
Volterra
Fans of the Medici series on Netflix will recognize the town hall in Volterra (#4) as the stand-in for Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio. Volterra–known as the City of Alabaster–is considerably less crowded than its neighbor, San Gimignano, and has just as much (maybe more) to offer the artsy traveler.
Scenic Volterra in Tuscany
Noteworthy sites include the medieval frescoes in the Palazzo dei Priori, the remains of the Etruscan Acropolis (the Etruscans were big in these parts), the wonderful Guarnacci Etruscan Museum (more Etruscans), and the Roman Theater complex that includes the ruins of 3rd-century baths.
Read more about the Etruscans in the Artsy Sightseeing section of the Italy Destinations page.
Lucca
The walled city of Lucca (#5) is a charming place to spend half a day. Walk along the top of the walls, visit Lucca Cathedral (Lucca is known as the city of a hundred churches so there’s more to choose from), and breathe in the medieval atmosphere.
When we visited, a group of young people dressed in medieval garb were presenting a flag-waving demonstration to the accompaniment of some serious medieval drumming. We were entranced.
Medieval flag-waving in Lucca
Pisa
I’ve visited Pisa (#6) once, and that’s enough for me, although perhaps I’m being unfair. The area around the famous Leaning Tower teems with tacky souvenir stalls. I like a good tacky souvenir as much as the next gal, but even I reached my limit in Pisa.
The Leaning Tower of Pisa and the Duomo
The cathedral is worth visiting, and you must get someone to take the obligatory shot of you holding up the tower. Drop in to Pisa if you’re driving and you have time; otherwise, don’t sweat it. Tuscany has many more treasures to offer.
Other Towns in Tuscany
Tuscany is one of the largest provinces in Italy, with many worthwhile hill towns to visit, including Montalcino, Montepulciano, Monteriggioni, Cortono, and Pienza.
These are all best visited by car. I’ve also traveled in Tuscany by bus, which works fine if you really don’t like driving.
Driving in Tuscany is relatively easy but not speedy. The roads are narrow and twisting. Slow down, relax, and enjoy the journey. Oh – and make way for locals who don’t ‘do’ slow.
TIP: Never (and I mean never!) attempt to drive into a Tuscan hill town. First, you risk getting a stiff fine (being a tourist is no excuse), second, you risk ripping one or both of your side mirrors off your rental car, and third, you risk never again speaking to your partner.
Find the parking lot outside the city walls and walk into the town. Yes, you’ll likely be walking uphill (that’s why they are called hill towns), but some towns such as San Gimignano thoughtfully provide an elevator to take you from the car park to the town. Others don’t, but if you’re going to travel in Tuscany, you need to be up for some good, stiff walking.
Umbria
Umbria (#7) has much to offer the artsy traveler. The landscape is just as stunning as the landscape in Tuscany, with even more rugged mountains, and hill towns as interesting and historic. Highlights include Perugia, Assisi, Gubbio, and Orvieto.
Perugia
Perugia (#8) is the capital of Umbria and one of its largest towns. We enjoyed strolling around the central piazza and ducking into the cathedral. Perugia is laid-back and not overly crowded.
View of the scenic Piazza IV Novembre, main square and masterpiece of medieval architecture in Perugia, Italy
The highlight of our visit to Perugia was discovering the Civic Museum at the Palazzo della Penna. There, we viewed the work of Gerardo Dottori, the leader of the Umbrian Futurists and one of the founders of Aeropainting.
The Palazzo della Penna is one of Perugia’s little-known museums that’s worth seeking out. It’s constructed on the ruins of a Roman amphitheater and an ancient Roman road.
One of the highlights of artsy traveling is looking for these lesser-known but amazing small museums (of which Italy has many). They are almost always deserted, and most contain marvelous collections.
Assisi
One of the hippest things I saw during our visit to Assisi (#9) wasn’t even on the tourist radar. I spied a small sign in a side street advertising a special exhibition of medieval costumes. As an historical novelist with a yen for all things medieval and Italian, I’d found my bliss. Here’s a few of the costumes included in the exhibition.
When traveling to small towns in Tuscany and Umbria, check at the tourist office for local exhibitions and events and keep an eye out for posters. You never know what gems you’ll find.
Also taking place while we were in Assisi was an annual festival where all the locals dressed in medieval garb and paraded through the streets. Many other events were included in the festival, but we had neglected to get tickets.
More reason to do your research before you go!
The big draw to Assisi is, of course, the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi, with its marvelous frescoes by Giotto. Start your visit to Assisi here, then walk up into the medieval town, and from there continue up to the fortezza for some stunning views.
Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi
Gubbio
What a delightful town! Nicknamed the City of Fools, Gubbio (#10) is unpretentious and relaxed. We spent a pleasant day wandering its cobbled streets, enjoying lunch in the panoramic Piazza Grande, and visiting the municipal museum.
One of the fun attractions of Gubbio is the Big Barrel, otherwise known as La Botte dei Canonici. The barrel is reputed to be the world’s largest and oldest. It’s worth a photo op, and there’s a gift shop. Entrance is free, so if you pass it during your wanderings around Gubbio, pop in and find out more.
We also checked out the Roman Theatre outside the walls of Gubbio near where we parked.
The Roman Theatre outside the walls of Gubbio
Remember–always park outside the city walls!
Orvieto
The stunning cathedral is the draw to Orvieto (#11), a beautiful Umbrian town perched atop a volcanic plug and worth an overnight stay. Unlike its better known Tuscan counterparts, Orvieto is relaxed and approachable. Park in the large lot at the bottom of the hill and take the elevator or escalator to the medieval upper town.
The facade of the cathedral is unusual in its inclusion of golden mosaics, sculpture, and stained glass.
The stunning facade of the Cathedral at Orvieto
For more information about what to see in Orvieto, check out this article by Rick Steves, my fave travel writer.
Have you visited Tuscany and Umbria? Share your recommendations in the comments below. And to further excite your about this amazing region, here are some more posts about what to see as an Artsy Traveler in Italy:
