Woman sitting on a balcony overlooking an Italian city - example of hotel accommodations in Italy

Where to Stay in Italy: My Picks by Region

I'm Carol Cram, novelist, podcaster, and travel writer, and founder of Art In Fiction, a curated database of 2600+ novels inspired by the arts. Artsy Traveler contains affiliate links for products and services I personally use and recommend. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Please read the Disclosure for more information.

I’ve had great luck finding marvelous places to stay in Italy, from an agriturismo near Tarquinia where we were welcome to raid the vegetable garden, to a guesthouse in San Gimignano with a 14th-century cellar that later turned up in one of my novels.

Hotel proprietors are friendly, and these days almost all of them speak English.

Here’s where to stay in Italy based on hotels and apartments I’ve actually stayed in, region by region, plus a handful I haven’t tried myself but that look like solid bets.

My recommended hotels are comfortable, well-located, and usually family-run, perfect for art lovers, drivers, and travelers who value character over chain hotels.



Top Five Hotels at a Glance

Here are my five favorite recommended hotels in Italy:


Choosing a Room

To Book or Not to Book?

I book almost all the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home so I know I’ll have places to stay in every location. While traveling, I sometimes change bookings to follow a new route or in response to hearing about a cool location I hadn’t known about.

TIP: Stay flexible when you travel. You never know when you might meet someone who recommends a festival or event or exhibition. More than once, I’ve altered an itinerary to attend a special exhibition or visit a new attraction.

Choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book and then cancel hotel reservations as your itinerary changes.

Most sites offer you a no-cancellation option at a lower price. However, I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel. For example, I’ll select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from because I know those locations won’t change.

But overall, stay flexible. I’ve learned from experience that sticking to a rigid itinerary with no-cancellation accommodations can end up costing you more money than you save.

Breakfasts – Prima Colazione

Breakfasts in Italy usually consist of scrumptious pastries, fresh fruit, dry cereal, cold meats and cheeses, and coffee. I only eat the hotel breakfast if it’s included in the room rate or if I didn’t get a chance to buy food before checking in.

Buffet breakfast at an Italian hotel
Buffet breakfast at an Italian hotel

If hotel breakfasts cost extra (and the cost can be exorbitant), I buy yogurt and fruit at a local grocery store and then go to a bar or café for my morning cappuccino.

Location

In Italy in particular, I only stay in the center of a town or city if I’m not driving. As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, driving into medieval hill towns can be a nightmare, and driving into cities like Rome is definitely not recommended!

A great advantage of traveling in Italy by public transit is that you can choose to stay in picturesque and historic town centers (centros).

Grab a taxi from the train station and let your driver negotiate the tiny cobbled alleyways while you enjoy watching the passing throngs and imagining yourself back in the Middle Ages.

Tips for Drivers in Italy

When driving in Italy, I book places on the outskirts of the town or city and then take trams or taxis into the centro for sightseeing. In rural areas, like Tuscany and Umbria, I always book places located in the gorgeous countryside so I can take walks and, if it’s hot, enjoy a dip in the pool.

When selecting a hotel outside a city, I usually opt for a modern business hotel that includes free parking. Chains such as NH, Blu, and Best Western are generally reliable.

TIP: For a taste of la dolce vita, consider booking an agriturismo property for a week or more in a rural area. Attached to a working farm or vineyard, these properties provide you with opportunities to meet local families and to sample local food.

Star Rating

Over the years, I’ve stayed in many clean and well-run budget hotels in Italy, but these days I favor three- or four-star properties because I appreciate amenities such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, and in-room Wi-Fi.

I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters will be small, with a child-size shower stall and barely enough room to wedge your suitcase against the wall.

Reviews – Should You Care?

Yes, I pay attention to reviews. If a property’s aggregate review is under 8.0 out of a possible 10, I usually pass. Sometimes the difference between a property with a 9.6 review and one with an 8.2 review is only a few euros, and yet the quality of the higher-rated property is worth the extra money.

You have to take reviews with a grain of salt, however. Just because a property has a score of 9.8 doesn’t mean it’s five-star luxury. Check the star rating, and remember that a 9.8 score for a two-star hotel is not the same as a 9.8 for a four-star, and proceed accordingly.

TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in Italy and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.


Accommodation Options by Region

To help you plan your Italy getaway, here are my recommendations. For each destination, I describe properties I’ve stayed at and suggest alternate properties that look like good bets for artsy travelers. I’ve also provided a clickable map for each destination.

Northern Italy

In this post, I include recommendations for hotels in Turin, Milan, Bolzano, the Dolomites, Piacenza, Cremona, Parma, Mantua, Verona, and adorable Sirmione on Lake Garda.

Turin

The Parco Hotel Sassi, located 4 kilometers from Turin, worked well for us when we were driving from France to Italy. We checked the pictures of the hotel and noted it was surrounded by the greenery of the Po Natural Park.

When booking hotels on the outskirts of a town, make sure you don’t end up in a dreary suburb. Parco Hotel Sassi is situated in an attractive area outside of Turin.

We appreciated the large rooms, beautiful grounds, and proximity to a family restaurant that served one of the best meals we’ve had in Italy. We left the car in the free car park and hopped the tram to get into Turin.

On another trip to Turin, we stayed in an apartment in the heart of the city. This was a great choice because we were staying in Turin for ten days to attend an art exhibition featuring work by Gregg Simpson (artist and husband), and we wanted to be able to walk everywhere. We parked our car in an underground lot nearby.

Called the Casa Vittoria, the two-bedroom, well-appointed apartment was great value and in an excellent location for exploring lovely Turin.

Check the map below for additional accommodation options in Turin.

Milan

I’ve stayed in a few places in Milan over the years, including a nondescript 3-star hotel near the hotel. My favorite by far is Aparthotel Durini within walking distance of the Duomo. While not exactly spacious, it was bigger than a typical hotel room and the location was perfect.

When looking for hotels in Milan, stay in that area rather than near the train station.

I rarely recommend getting places too close to the train station in big cities. In my experience, such hotels tend to be rather soulless and sometimes downright dreary.

If you are traveling by car, check the maps and select a hotel located near the main highway of your route into the city. Note that Milan is not as crazy to drive in as, say, Rome. However, it is a big city, and, as a rule, steering clear of big cities is the less stressful option.

Here are two more recommendations:

In central Milan, Antica Locanda Dei Mercanti looks like an excellent, relatively high-end choice located close to the Sforza Castle and featuring terraces and views. The reviews are excellent, and the rooms appear quite spacious. The hotel includes an airport shuttle, but parking is pricey so it’s probably not the best choice for drivers.

Also in central Milan, Hotel Gran Duca Di York is a three-star hotel in an excellent location near the Duomo. Ratings are good, although room sizes are not specified for all room types, and some look small. However, the price is reasonable, considering it’s Milan.

Have a look at the map below for additional accommodation options in Milan.

Bolzano

The Hotel Magdalener-Hof, high on a hill above Bolzano, was a perfect stop for us when we were en route to Venice after crossing from Austria through the Brenner Pass into Italy.

We had a dip in the pool overlooking the view and then caught the local bus into Bolzano to wander its colorful streets before enjoying dinner at a restaurant on the town square.

At the end of the evening, we grabbed a taxi back to the hotel for about €5, which was much easier and less stressful than driving into town and looking for parking.

Here are some other options in Bolzano:

Dolomites

We drove up into the Dolomites to the picturesque Alpine village of Seis and stayed in the Parc Hotel Florian.

The view from our balcony of needle-sharp Mount Schlern looming above the village was fabulous, exactly the view of the Dolomites I’d hoped for.

The hotel included a hearty dinner, which was perfect because restaurant options in the area were limited. The hotel makes a good home base if you plan to spend a few days in the area and take lifts up to the Alpe di Siusi to go hiking.

Here are more options in the area:

Piacenza

While not generally high on many people’s to-visit lists for Northern Italy, I’d like to put in a plug for pretty little Piacenza.

If you’re looking for a few days to just chill in a typical northern Italian town where most of the time the only tourist you’ll see is the one in your bathroom mirror, then check out Piacenza.

We stayed in a fabulous apartment in the Palazzina Scotti. Housed in an old building behind one of Piacenza’s iconic metal gates, the place was super modern, comfortable, and in a great location just about ten minutes walk from Piacenza’s central piazza.

Check the map for other accommodation options in Piacenza:

Cremona

Cremona is worth a visit if you love classical music. Its incredible violin museum (formerly known as the Stradivari Museum) is world-class and will keep you absorbed for hours. There’s a lot to learn about violins.

We were driving and so stayed on the outskirts at Cremona Palace Hotel, which was a business hotel with large rooms in a country setting. It won’t win prizes for charm, but it’s a great choice for drivers who don’t want to worry about parking in central Cremona.

But if you’re coming by train, definitely stay in Cremona so you can stroll around this lovely town in the evening. Here are some options:

Parma

If you’re driving and want to visit pretty little Parma, I recommend staying on the outskirts at B&B Il Conte Giacomo. Run by a cheerful Brit, this place has been lovingly renovated while retaining its ancient charm. There are only a handful of rooms so you’ll likely get to meet some fellow travelers.

But if you’re coming by train, stay in Parma itself (and have some parmesan cheese and Parma ham). Here are some options:

Mantua

Mantua is an excellent destination for the artsy traveler. There’s a lot to see, including the magnificent Palazzo Te where there are often special exhibitions. We saw an amazing exhibition of works by Rubens.

It’s easy to park along the river and walk to the centro where I recommend staying in Gran Hotel Lorenzo. It’s a bit of a splurge, but the view over the rooftops of Mantua is worth it. You’ll feel like you stepped into a Renaissance painting.

Here are more options in Mantua:

Sirmione

If you’re going to Sirmione, stay the night! During the day, it’s mobbed with day trippers, but at night, the streets empty and it’s magical.

We stayed at the Hotel Flaminia, which has a gorgeous terrace jutting out over Lake Garda. In the summer, you can jump right into the lake.

The hotel provided a golf cart shuttle from a parking lot outside the town walls. You do not want to try driving into Sirmione if you value your sanity.

Here are more options in Sirmione. If you’re driving, make sure the hotel you’ve booked provides a shuttle to and from the parking lot.

Verona

Verona is definitely worth at least two nights of your time. There’s so much to see beyond Juliet’s iconic balcony (but check it out for a laugh). Its Roman arena is one of the best preserved in Europe, and there are plenty of Renaissance palazzos and art to keep you entranced

Stay at Hotel Torcolo, which is located a few steps from the arena in the heart of the old town. Here are some other otpions in Verona:


The Veneto: Venice, Padua, Ravenna

Venice

If you have the time, rent an apartment in Venice and stay for a week. Live like a local, not that you’ll see many locals these days. Venetians are moving out of the city at an alarming rate.

But at least you’ll experience shopping in tiny local grocery stores and get to know your way around a neighborhood.

If you’re staying in Venice for two or three days, consider the Dorsoduro district across the Grand Canal from the Piazza San Marco.

I recommend you avoid the area immediately adjacent to Piazza San Marco. Hotels there can be expensive, and the tiny streets in the area are overrun with tourists during the day.

Here are suggestions for hotels that we have stayed at, one in the Dorsoduro and two near the Rialto Bridge.

San Teodoro Palace – Luxury Apartments: The best of the three. This spacious apartment (huge by Venetian standards) is in the center of the action, steps from the Rialto Bridge. The streets around it can get busy, but the crowds thin in the evening, and few things are better in an artsy traveler’s life than a stroll through Venice after dark.

Hotel Canaletto: The rooms were small, but that’s par for the course in Venice. The location, just 200 meters from Rialto Bridge, was fantastic as was its situation on a charming side canal.

Hotel Messner is a more modest option, located in the Dorsoduro neighborhood close to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. It was quiet, and the area was peaceful and uncrowded, particularly at night.

For other options in Venice, check the map below. Resist the temptation to stay on the mainland. The savings will be minimal once you take into account train fares and your time.

Stay in the middle of Venice and enjoy this unique city.

Ravenna

We were driving when we visited Ravenna, so we stayed at the Grand Hotel Mattei, about a ten-minute taxi ride from the center of Ravenna.

The hotel was large and modern and included free parking—a perfect choice! When we’re driving in Italy, convenience usually wins out over charm.

The map below shows more options in and around Ravenna.

Padua

Padua is under-rated as a place deserving a few days of your time, which is a shame because there’s a lot to see in Padua and it’s relatively uncrowded. I spent a week there and found plenty to do.

We stayed in an apartment about a ten minute walk from the center of Padua. It was large and well-equipped with friendly managers who didn’t get angry when the shower door shattered after the merest of pushes.

Here are more options in Padua:


Tuscany

We’ve stayed in marvelous hotels and bed-and-breakfasts in Tuscany, some in the countryside and some in the towns. You’ll find fabulous villa properties in Tuscany and pay equally fabulous prices.

Most of my suggestions are in the modest €100-200 per night range.

Florence

One of the best weeks I spent in Florence was at a rented house high above the city, near Fiesole. While swimming in the pool, we could see the Duomo shimmering in the distance.

If you have the time and a car, consider renting a house a few kilometers outside Florence. You can then drive to one of the parking lots on the perimeter of the city and catch a bus into the centro.

Here are two suggestions for hotels I’ve stayed at in central Florence.

Hotel Pitti Palace at Ponte Vecchio is a great choice because it’s across the Ponte Vecchio in the atmospheric and marginally less crowded San Giovanni district.

I stayed there on a solo trip to Florence and was especially taken by the views from the rooftop bar. Highly recommended.

View from the rooftop bar at the Hotel Pitti Palace in Florence
View from the rooftop bar at the Hotel Pitti Palace in Florence

The Hotel Alba Palace is an elegant property in a good location near Santa Maria Novella Basilica.

If you’re driving, you do not want to drive into central Florence. Instead, find a place on the outskirts and take a bus. Here are two places we’ve stayed at that I recommend.

The Hotel Ungherese features a statue-filled garden, views over Florence, spacious rooms, and easy parking. It’s not far from Florence on the local bus.

The Hilton Garden Hotel Florence Novoli is a four-star, reasonably-priced property a 15-minute bus ride from the center of Florence. The hotel is slick and modern and lacking in charm. However, it’s easy to find, and parking is underground and secure.

For other accommodation options in Florence, check the map below.

San Gimignano

I heartily recommend three places outside the walls of San Gimignano that I’ve stayed at over the years. My favorite is the Hotel Pescille which I’ve stayed at at least four times since we discovered it back in 1999!

Hotel Pescille: This three-star establishment has a killer view over the valley to the towers of San Gimignano. I keep returning to the Hotel Pescille for its simple but comfortable rooms, its fabulous location in the Tuscan countryside, and the rustic furnishings.

The walls in the common areas are decorated with farm implements, and ceramic pumpkins adorn niches and stairwells. The Hotel Pescille is located about a five-minute drive south of San Gimignano.

On our most recent trip, we took several walks near the hotel to admire the view. Here’s a shot of San Gimignano from a vantage point close to the Hotel Pescille. Look at those clouds!

San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy
I give you San Gimignano!

Relais Cappuccina: On the north side of San Gimignano, the Relais Cappuccina affords a different and equally stunning panoramic view of San Gimignano than that of the Hotel Pescille. The pool at this hotel is lovely, thanks to its situation overlooking San Gimignano. Our room was spacious and bright and included a terrace.

Relais Cappuccina with San Gimignano in the distance
The swimming pool at the Relais Cappuccina with San Gimignano in the distance

Villa Ducci: I stayed here on my own while researching my novel, The Towers of Tuscany, and loved it. The staff were friendly and helpful. They even allowed me to view the cellar with its 14th-century foundations that later played a role in the novel. The Villa Ducci, like the Relais Cappuccina, is located on the north side of San Gimignano. Here’s a sunrise view of the town I snapped one morning.

Sunrise over San Gimignano seen from my balcony at the Villa Ducci

The map below shows more options for staying in or near San Gimignano. If you’re traveling without a car, consider one of the hotels in the center of the town so you can enjoy moonlit strolls around the medieval streets before turning in.

Montepulciano

If you’re driving, treat yourself to a stay at Sant’Antonio Country Resort. I loved it so much I wrote a dedicated post about the place. It really is the quintessential Tuscany stay.

Siena

If I had to choose a favorite city in Italy, it would be Siena. I never tire of wandering around its medieval streets, imagining my characters. I’ve set two of my novels in Siena.

Here are three places I recommend:

Merli di Ada: This place within the city walls is a keeper. If you’re driving, they give you precise instructions how to get there, unload your bags and hand the keys over to a valet who takes and parks your somewhere you’ll never see. The extra charge is well worth it for the chance to stay in the centro.

The entrance way is brick-arched and reeking with history. The tiny elevator that climbs very slowly from the lobby to the third floor is the only modern intrusion.

Palazzo Masi: This small bed-and-breakfast in the center of Siena is steps from the Campo and located in a building that dates from the 14th century. I stayed here while researching The Towers of Tuscany. It’s a great choice if you’re not driving in Siena.

Athena Hotel: This is a wonderful choice if you’re driving because it’s located just inside the city walls and is easily accessible. The rooms are large and the views over the countryside spectacular. We’ll stay there again, for sure.

Check the map for more accommodation options in Siena. If you’re driving, choose properties at or near the city walls rather than in the center of the city where access is tight and parking at a premium.

Tarquinia

Casale Dinelli: This is a lovely agriturismo property near Tarquinia, consisting of two small guest cottages set in beautiful grounds that included vegetable gardens we were welcome to raid.

Charming cottage accommodations at the Casale Dinelli
Charming cottage accommodations at the Casale Dinelli
Breakfast food supplied; strawberries fresh from the garden
Breakfast food supplied; strawberries fresh from the garden

Umbria

We stayed for ten days in Umbria in an amazing apartment attached to the gallery where Gregg had an exhibition. Located outside the lovely little town of Gualdo Tadino, the place made a wonderful home base for exploring the principal towns of Umbria.

Because we chose a homestay for our Umbria visit, most of my recommendations for these towns are based on user reviews rather than personal experience. We did, however, stay in the Hotel Valentino in Orvieto the first time we visited Umbria.

The map below shows places in Umbria.

Assisi

The Vico del Poeta looks like an excellent, medieval bed-and-breakfast in Assisi. Reviews are good, and free parking is included (always a bonus!).

Grand Hotel Assisi: I like the look of this place: panoramic views, a swimming pool, and a reasonable price.

Orvieto

Hotel Valentino is situated in the centro storico (the historical center) of Orvieto but is accessible by car. We loved being in the middle of the medieval action here and able to stroll the cobbled streets after all the crowds were gone. The hotel itself is old and rather dark but comfortable and clean. A solid choice.

Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini has great ratings and looks pretty posh but with a reasonable price.

Agriturismo Podere Pescara is located in the countryside near Orvieto. The surroundings look incredible.

Perugia

Sangallo Palace includes balconies, views, and what looks to be a lovely ambiance near Perugia.


Marche & Bologna

Ancona

I have to put in a plug for the Hotel Emilia, high on a cliff overlooking the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy not far from Ancona. If you drive east through Umbria, you’ll likely end up in the Marche, the biggest city being Ancona on the coast. Once a bit off the tourist track, the region is getting more popular and for good reason.

The Hotel Emilia is wonderful; stunning views and fabulous modern sculptures and paintings decorate the grounds and public rooms.

We stayed for two nights, relaxing in the gardens overlooking the misty view of the legend-shrouded Adriatic, taking long walks along the cliff top, and enjoying a beachside dinner in the village of Portonovo a few minutes’ drive down the hill.

We stayed there in May, which is still the off-season. I gather that in the summer, the beach is mobbed!

Bologna

Bologna is one of Italy’s most underrated cities and well worth a night or two, particularly if you’re driving between Florence and Venice or exploring Emilia-Romagna.

The historic center is compact and walkable, with beautiful medieval arcades, two leaning towers, and one of Europe’s great food markets. Bologna is also home to the world’s oldest university, founded in 1088, which gives the city an intellectual energy you don’t find in more purely tourist-focused destinations.

We stayed in Adriano Residence, an aparthotel about a ten minute walk from the center of Bologna. The location was great and the apartment was comfortable. I recommend it.

Here are more options in Bologna:


Rome

We tend to favor apartments when staying in Rome. Our favorite location is in the tiny streets leading into the Piazza Navona. One year we had an apartment that included a rooftop terrace! Hotels are plentiful but not budget-friendly in Rome. Here are two hotels and two apartments I’ve stayed at that I recommend.

Deko Rome is a small bed-and-breakfast located close to the Borghese Gardens in a lovely residential area of Rome. I stayed there when I traveled to Rome on my own and found it comfortable, budget-friendly, and safe.

Hotel Paba is a small, two-star hotel that occupies the second floor of a residential building conveniently located on the Via Cavour, not far from the Colosseum. In fact, you can see the Colosseum from the street. The decor is old-fashioned and cozy and the price reasonable, considering the central location.

Viam 16B Suites is probably my favorite suite hotel I’ve stayed at anywhere in Europe. It’s stylish, includes a private terrace, and is located in a great area of Rome, close to the Piazza Popolo and the Spanish Steps.

Torre Capranica is on a tiny side street steps from the Pantheon and close to Piazza Navona. It’s right smack in the middle of the action! The renovated 14th century tower is super modern inside and ancient outside; highly recommended.

Check the map for more accommodation options in Rome. I suggest the area around the Piazza Navona or the less touristy Trastevere.


Campania

Naples

Naples has to be experienced to be believed. It’s chaotic, the drivers are crazy, and the pizza is the best in the world.

The Palazzorefici is a stylish apartment deep in the heart of Naples on a tiny side street. It’s close to a main street where you can easily get taxis to wherever you want to go in Naples.

If you’re looking to be a bit away from the action with spectacular views over the Bay of Naples, choose Hotel Paradiso on Posillipo Hill.

Here are more options in Naples:

Sorrento

The Hotel Eden has a central location in Sorrento, with rooms on the upper floors overlooking the stunning view of the Bay of Naples. Lush gardens and a pool provide a welcome oasis. This is a good choice for Sorrento, although not budget-friendly.

Here are some more options in Sorrento:

Positano

We didn’t stay in Positano, so my recommendations are based on what I think looks good. Prices are high in this holiday mecca, so if Positano is above your price range, consider staying longer in Sorrento and taking a day tour down the Amalfi coast.

In Positano, the uber-posh Sirenuse Hotel is uber-expensive, but if your budget runs to it – wowee! Scenes from Only You were filmed there.

A more budget-friendly option is the Villa Antonietta that also has sea views but is much more modestly appointed.

Here are more options in Positano:

Paestum

The Hotel Savoy, steps from the beach near Paestum, is a real find: surprisingly luxurious and not nearly as expensive as you’d expect.


Tours & Tickets in Italy

Here are some options to explore through GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com. I’ve booked with both companies several times, and have had good experiences.

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Carol Cram
About Carol Cram

Carol M. Cram is the author of five award-winning novels inspired by art and the women who shaped it, the creator of Artsy Traveler, an arts-focused travel blog, the founder of Art In Fiction, a curated database of 2,600+ novels inspired by the arts, and the host of The Art In Fiction Podcast. She lives with her husband, artist Gregg Simpson, on beautiful Bowen Island near Vancouver, BC.

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