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Best 10-Day Itinerary to Tour Andalusia in Southern Spain

Destinations, Spain Artsy Traveler 3 Comments

Last updated on January 18th, 2025 at 01:04 am

Heading to Andalusia in southern Spain? You’re in for a treat!

I recommend allocating ten days to tour Andalusia by car. This amount of time allows you to comfortably sample this incredible region.

My suggested itinerary in Andalusia starts in Cordoba and ends in Seville, and takes in Ronda, the White Towns, Cadiz, and Granada, along with lovely Cadiz facing the Atlantic Ocean.

As an artsy traveler, you’ll find more than enough cultural sites and experiences to delight you when touring Andalusia with my suggested itinerary.

Travel blog cover featuring the Cordoba Mosque-Cathedral and a flamenco dancer, with the title 'Visiting Andalusia: A 10-Day Itinerary' from ArtsyTraveler.com

Andalusia at a Glance

Visit Cordoba, tour the Mezquita, and stay at Balcón de Córdoba
Spend a day touring the Alhambra in Grenada and stay at Suites Gran Via 44
See a flamenco performance in Seville and stay at Hotel Amadeus Sevilla
To tour the White Towns, homebase in Ronda and stay out in the country at Hotel Cortijo Las Piletas
Take a beach day in Cadiz and stay at the Hotel Monte Puertatierra

Why Tour Andalusia?

To me, Andalusia is Spain on steroids. It’s the Spain of my imagination with bone-white villages perched on rocky crags, the skull-pounding rhythms and olés of flamenco, and tranquil Moorish courtyards with fountains splashing.

I just have to say Andalusia and I feel romantic.

Carol Cram in Grazalema in Andalusia, a stop on a culture-stepped itinerary to tour Andalusia — Me on the road leading to Grazalema, one of the *Pueblos Blancos* (white towns) in Andalusia

To get you in the mood for touring Andalusia, listen to this clip from Concerto for Aranjuez by Joaquín Rodrigo.

If your heart swells and your palms get a bit sweaty from an excess of romantic swooning, then you’ll know that touring Andalusia is for you!

Getting Around Andalusia

As one of the largest regions in Spain, Andalusia stretches from the Portuguese border in the west, south to the Mediterranean and the resorts on the Costa del Sol, and east almost as far as Cartagena.

Here’s a map of the area:

Trip map courtesy of Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

One way to tour Andalusia is to connect the three principal cities—Cordoba (#1), Granada (#2), and Seville (#5)—by train. The distances are short, and train service is efficient and fast.

On my first trip to the area, I took trains and found the experience easy and relaxing.

If you’re keen on a road trip, add in Cadiz (#4), the White Towns (Pueblos Blancos), and Ronda (#3) (highly recommended).

One option is to take the high-speed train from Madrid to Cordoba, enjoy the city for one night, then rent a car at the airport in Madrid and drive east to Granada for two nights.

Then, circle around to the west to visit the White Towns, Ronda, and Cadiz by way of Arcos de la Frontera.

Drop off your rental car at the airport in Seville, grab a shuttle or a taxi to an apartment in the old town (where I don’t advise driving), and enjoy the final days of your trip in Andalusia.

Suggested Itinerary

For a southern Spain itinerary that combines driving and trains, I suggest:

One night in Cordoba
Two nights in Granada
Three nights in the countryside near Ronda to explore it and the White Towns
One night in Cadiz
Three nights in Seville.

Highlights of your week include visits to the Alhambra in Granada and the Mosque-Cathedral in Cordoba, touring gorgeous Ronda and the White Towns, basking on the beach at Cadiz, and, of course, enjoying flamenco pretty much everywhere, but particularly in Seville.

Best Time to Visit Andalusia

Summers are HOT in southern Spain so you may want to plan your trip for April, May, September or October.

I’ve visited the area during both those times and found the weather just about perfect. I also visited Seville in July and found it a bit stifling. If you travel during the summer, make sure you rent an air conditioned place, take the afternoons off for siesta, and do your touring in the mornings and evenings.

Train to the South from Madrid

If you’re starting in Madrid, you may want to take the train to the south and then rent a car.

On one trip to the area, I took an early morning train from Madrid to Cordoba, and was glad I was on the train and not driving. The distance is quite vast and the landscape stark and beautiful, but not particularly varied. You’ll pass a lot of olive trees.

On another trip to Spain, I drove from Toledo (just south of Madrid) to Ronda (not far from Cordoba). As I discovered when watching the landscape from the train on my first trip, the vast distance doesn’t improve when seen from a car.

However, driving in Spain is not difficult. The roads are good and the traffic is generally light. But like anywhere in Europe, you want to avoid driving into medieval towns and villages. Park on the outskirts and walk or take a taxi.

Day 1: Cordoba

I arrived in Cordoba and moments later was careening through the historic Jewish Quarter in the back seat of a taxi driven by a guy who didn’t know where he was going.

As we had all morning, my husband and I continued to congratulate ourselves for not driving.

The author with a glass of sherry in the courtyard of a hotel in Cordoba

Finally, the driver found the lovely little hotel on a small square in the maze of tiny streets. I entered a cool courtyard where a fountain tinkled and the friendly proprietor offered me a cold glass of wine. Heaven after a long day of traveling!

Balcón de Córdoba is a good place to stay In Cordoba, or pretty much anywhere deep in the Old Town.

Exploring Cordoba

Refreshed from our drink and a rest, we ventured out into this lovely old city. One can’t help but love Cordoba.

The old town is compact, with plenty of twisting medieval streets, and the Mosque-Cathedral and the Roman Bridge are world-class sites.

Touring the Mosque-Cathedral (Mezquita)

Visit the Mosque-Cathedral (a UNESCO World Heritage site) in the late afternoon or early morning. With any luck, the tour groups will have dissipated, leaving you space to enjoy this incredible place in relative solitude.

Wander around to soak up the history and then, if you can, hover at the edges of a guided tour to pick up some information about the history and architecture.

Moorish architecture of the praying hall. The Mezquita is regarded as the most accomplished monument of the Umayyad Caliphate of Córdoba. After the Spanish Reconquista, it once again became a Roman Catholic church. — Moorish architecture of the praying hall in the Mosque-Cathedral

Around 900 AD, Cordoba under Moorish rule had 400,000 inhabitants and was one of the most sophisticated cities in Europe. In those days, the mosque was called the Mezquita and was a glorious forest of arches and columns.

In the 15th century, the King built a church in the center of the mosque – a terrible shame, from an architectural standpoint. However, be grateful that they didn’t pull down the mosque itself so we can still see what it looked like in its heyday. What’s left of the mosaics, and the lovely symmetry of the columns and arches, provides an interesting contrast to the overly ornate church bits.

Enjoying Flamenco in Cordoba

In the evening, enjoy tapas in the historic quarter and then catch a flamenco performance at the Tablao El Cardenal. We were entranced for over two hours.

Two guitar players, two male singers, five female dancers, and one male dancer made up the company. Unbelievable!

The male singers did things with their throats that I didn’t think humanly possible, and the flamenco guitarists were breathtaking. And then there were the dancers! Both soloists and ensembles performed what sometimes looked choreographed and at other times improvised, inspired by the singers and guitarists.

Strolling the Roman Bridge

After the show, wander out to view the Roman Bridge dating from the 1st century BC that spans the Guadalquivir River. Walk across and look back to see the floodlit Mosque-Cathedral.

Cordoba's Roman Bridge illuminated at night, leading to the iconic Mosque-Cathedral, a breathtaking stop on an Andalusia itinerary — Roman Bridge on Guadalquivir River and Mosque-Cathedral (La Mezquita) illuminated at dusk in the city of Cordoba, Andalusia, Spain.

Cordoba Tours

Here’s an option that includes the highlights of Cordoba:

Days 2 & 3: Granada

Drive about two hours or catch a train to Granada. If you’re driving, take a detour to the las Sierras Subbéticas National Park to enjoy amazing views.

Granada is a thriving town with more going for it than just the Alhambra. Spend your first afternoon and evening walking around the backstreets and barrios of this lovely city. Stop by one of the lively plazas for a drink and tapas and watch the world go by. You might hear a band playing in a nearby park.

Also, stroll up to Sacromonte, the atmospheric gypsy quarter. Peer into cave houses and later in the evening enjoy more flamenco.

Visiting the Alhambra

Buy your tickets for the Alhambra within three months of your visit to Granada. Your ticket is valid all day. However, you need a special time-slot admission ticket to visit the Nasrid Palaces (Palacios Nazaries) at the heart of the Alhambra. If possible, choose a time early in the day to have a fighting chance of beating the crowds.

Panoramic view of the Alhambra in Granada with the Sierra Nevada mountains in the background, a top destination on an Andalusia itinerary — A beautiful view of Alhambra, Granada, Andalusia, Spain

Take a taxi up to the Alhambra (taxis are not expensive).

The Alhambra complex is huge. You’ll walk a lot, but every few steps you’ll see another new and glorious vista or intriguing detail to admire.

One of the huge towers of the Alcazaba fortress inside the Alhambra, a place to see while visiting Andalusia — One of the huge towers of the Alcazaba fortress inside the Alhambra

Touring the Nasrid Palaces

About thirty minutes before the time noted on your ticket for the Nasrid Palaces (Palacios Nazaries), line up at the entrance. The signs and the line-up are hard to miss!

Even in the morning, the crowds will be large, making the visit through the rooms of the palace a claustrophobic squeeze. Check out the drippy stonework on the ceilings, the incredible tilework, and the serene courtyards.

Detailed Moorish arches and carvings inside the Alhambra in Granada, a highlight of an Andalusia itinerary filled with historical and cultural wonders. — Ornate stonework in the Nasrid Palace

After visiting the palace, wander over to the Generalife Gardens which are usually not so crowded as the Alhambra and contain many more fountains. Apparently, the fountains are a 19th-century addition, since the Moors preferred standing water to fountains.

Water games and beautiful vegetation in the gardens of the Generalife on the hill of the Alhambra

Spend the rest of the day relaxing after the exertions of the Alhambra, do some shopping, eat more tapas, and chill. End the day with more flamenco!

Options for Touring the Alhambra

Here are some options for ways to tour the Alhambra:

In Granada, consider staying at the Suites Gran Via 44. You’re within walking distance of the old town and the rooms are large and comfortable and include a small kitchen.

Days 4 to 6: Ronda & the White Towns

Take your time enjoying this lovely and rugged region of Spain. The White Towns (Pueblos Blancos) get their name from the white-washing on the walls of most of the houses. Set amidst rocky gorges and jagged cliffs, they gleam in the heat under harsh blue skies.

Many of the towns are located within the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park.

I suggest home-basing at a rural property outside of Ronda. We stayed at the Hotel Cortijo Las Piletas, a wonderful family-run hotel about a twenty-minute drive from Ronda on the road leading to the Caves of Pileta. For more about the Caves, check out Prehistory Sites in Europe: 7 Spine-Tingling Ancient Places.

Relax during the heat of the day, and then tour the towns in the early morning or late afternoon.

Ronda is worth a day of your time. The famous gorge is, well, gorgeous, particularly at sunset. We enjoyed a dinner overlooking the gorge and the bridge spanning it, and then stood at the edge of the bridge to watch the sun set over Andalusia.

Golden hour view of whitewashed houses perched on dramatic cliffs in Ronda, a picturesque stop on any Andalusia itinerary. — View over Ronda at sunset

Breathtaking! And so romantic!

Carol Cram on the bridge at Ronda, a highlight of touring Andalusia — Enjoying a sun-drenched view on the bridge at Ronda

Walk out onto the bridge and look down. It’s a long, long way down to the gorge.

View looking down from the bridge at Ronda. — Looking straight down from the bridge in Ronda

The tiny roads linking some of the White Towns, such as Zahara de la Sierra and Grazalema, are extremely twisty. Slow down and take your time navigating the hairpin turns while gasping at the spectacular vistas.

Here’s a tour that goes from Seville and visits Ronda and some of the White Towns of Andalusia:

Day 7: Cadiz

I craved a bit of beach time but wasn’t keen on making the scene in the coastal resorts of the Costa del Sol near Malaga.

So, I headed to Cadiz by way of Arcos de la Frontera—one of the larger but picturesque White Towns.

Instead of trying to navigate the narrow streets of old Cadiz, stay at a hotel along the main drag leading to the city and walk a block to the ocean. We stayed at the Hotel Monte Puertatierra.

The beach stretches for miles, and the swimming is fabulous. Just about everyone on the beach was a local. Cadiz isn’t on the tourist beat.

View of the beach at Cadiz, a great place to chill while touring Andalusia — Enjoy the beach at Cadiz

Again, slow down and enjoy. In the evening, find a place alongside the sea front for a leisurely dinner and watch the sun sink below the horizon.

Days 8 to 10: Seville

And finally, to Seville—the jewel of Andalusia (in my opinion!). I adore Seville and after two visits, I am nowhere near done with it.

Although a substantial city, the core of Seville is easily walkable and oh-so-picturesque. Yes, it can get crowded, particularly around the massive Seville Cathedral, but walk a few blocks and you’ll have the streets to yourself.

The two major attractions are the Seville Cathedral and the Real Alcázar—the Alcázar Palace.

Visiting Seville Cathedral

The cathedral is decorated with much of the gold brought back by the Conquistadors and, although beautiful, is a little over-the-top. But do pop in for a look. A guided tour is a good idea.

Illuminated Seville Cathedral and La Giralda tower at night, a must-see landmark on an Andalusia itinerary, showcasing stunning Gothic and Moorish architecture. — Seville Cathedral, Spain.

Touring Real Alcázar

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Real Alcázar is worth a visit. It’s a palace, still in use by the royal family, that was built by Christians on the site of a Moorish fortress. The Alcázar is considered a preeminent example of the Mudéjar style of architecture characterized by decorative motifs first developed by the Moors.

Line-ups are long, so make sure you get tickets in advance and wear good walking shoes. There’s a lot to see here!

Enjoying More Flamenco

Visit the Flamenco Museum and enjoy a show (or two) of flamenco in one of the many venues. We favor Los Gallos for its intimate setting. Get tickets in advance. Read Flamenco for my take on the flamenco experience in Seville.

Here’s an option for tickets through GetYourGuide:

Hanging Out in Seville

The real charm of Seville is the city itself—the outdoor cafés, the views along the riverside, the palm-studded parks, the tiny streets often shaded by canopies to keep out the sweltering heat.

Yes, Seville is hot. On a trip there in July, the thermometer grazed 41 degrees C (over 100 degrees F). Make sure you book an apartment or a hotel room with air conditioning, even if the cost is higher.

Spend the mornings sightseeing, return to your cool apartment in the heat of the day for siesta (such a civilized custom!), then venture out around 7 to start your evening. In Seville, the action barely gets going until after 10 pm.

Options for Touring Seville

Exploring the Area

Here are some more GetYourGuide tours in Andalusia.

Conclusion

Have you visited Andalusia? If so, you’ll know that ten days isn’t long enough to see all there is to see. Culture, art, and landscape come together in Andalusia to deliver one of Europe’s best artsy travel experiences.

Here are more posts about Spain on Artsy Traveler:

How to Spend Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Beautiful Barcelona

Destinations, Spain Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on January 18th, 2025 at 01:01 am

Barcelona has much to offer the artsy traveler. You won’t see all of it in two days, but you will see the highlights and still have time to stroll Las Ramblas and eat great food.

In this post, I share my suggestions for how to spend two full days and three nights in Barcelona.

Highlights at a Glance

Marvel at the Sagrada Familia
Take in a concert at the Palau de la Música
Spend time in the Parc Guell
Visit the Picasso Museum
Stay at the Hotel Cram (really!)

Pinterest graphic with the text "Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Beautiful Barcelona" over a view of Barcelona that includes the Sagrada Familia.

Arrival Day

Presuming you arrive in Barcelona mid to late afternoon, give yourself time to get settled, then spend your evening exploring your neighborhood. I suggest staying in the Eixample area, where you’ll find good hotels, leafy treed streets, and lots of restaurants.

Aerial straight down on the Eixample Disctrict, Barcelona

On a solo trip to Barcelona a few years ago, I was amazed at the number of restaurants a short distance from the Cram Hotel in the Eixample district where I stayed. Yes, that’s my last name, and no, they didn’t give me a discount, but they did give me a free breakfast! Apparently, I was the first person named Cram to stay there.

Each restaurant I passed in a short walk around the ‘hood had similar high levels of décor, ambiance, and, presumably, food. I opted for steak at an Argentinian restaurant, where the efficient, friendly and English-speaking waiter served the various components of my meal—wine, bread, pepper dip, roasted vegetables, steak, and agua con gaz—with North-American velocity.

I could have lingered longer. A flute player and a guitarist played vaguely- South-American-sounding music in the background. The restaurant flickered with candles against a décor of deep reds and warm browns. It was a lovely restaurant–one of hundreds throughout the city.

It’s remarkable that so many restaurants can be sustained, but Barcelona is hopping.

After dinner, stroll to the Plaça de Catalunya, do some people-watching, then carry on down Los Ramblas, a 1.2-kilometer-long boulevard in the center of Barcelona. Join the throngs of locals and tourists in the pedestrian-only middle section, browse the souvenir stands and shops, get a drink, and watch a few street performers.

Safety in Barcelona

I’ve heard stories about pickpockets and other scams in Barcelona. If someone approaches you and is overly friendly, telling you that you have dirt on your back, or worse, walk smartly away. Forget being polite.

Wear your money belt and stay alert. Barcelona is a big city with a lot of tourists. Don’t be paranoid, but do be aware that thieves are on the lookout for easy marks. Don’t be one of them!

Suggested Itinerary for Barcelona

For your two full days in Barcelona, I suggest you devote Day 1 to Gaudí-related sites, attend a concert at the Palau de la Música in the evening of either Day 1 or Day 2, then spend Day 2 enjoying Barcelona’s art museums, particularly the Picasso Museum and the Miró Foundation.

Day 1: Gaudí Barcelona

Antoni Gaudí was a Catalan architect known for his highly individualized modernista style. You’ll find him everywhere in Barcelona—from the colorful Gaudí-styled mugs in the souvenir shops (and yes, I have one) to modernista apartment blocks to Parc Güell, one of Europe’s most appealing parks, to the soaringly magnificent Sagrada Familia.

The best way to visit the many Gaudí sites in Barcelona is to hop on one of the Hop-on, Hop-off bus tours that prowl the streets of the city.

We did just that at the Playa Catalunya, and although the price was steep, we appreciated being able to watch Barcelona go by from the top deck as we moved from site to site. The subway is another option, but taking either the tour bus or the regular bus is more fun.

Casa Milà

Start at Casa Milà, known locally as La Pedrera, Gaudí’s super-famous apartment block. Get your tickets ahead of time to avoid a long wait. The building is something to see, with its sweeping molded balconies that don’t look real and its ornate interiors. A highlight are the dozens of whimsical chimney pots on the roof, from which you get great views of the city.

The 4,500-square-meter building spread over five floors includes a museum, the reproduction of an early-20th-century apartment, an exhibition of Gaudí’s work, and the rooftop terrace.

Touring Casa Milà will take at least an hour.

Other Gaudí Buildings

Depending on your stamina and your interest in Gaudí, you may want to visit other notable Gaudí buildings. Here are two more.

Casa Batlló

Check out the colorful mosaics made of broken ceramic tiles that decorate the facade. Located at Passeig de Gràcia, 43.

Casa Vicens

Close-up of a strange window of Casa Batllò, a masterpiece by famous architect Antoni Gaudì.

Casa Vicens is one of Gaudí’s first buildings and considered one of the first modernist buildings in the world. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the building is a museum showcasing Gaudí’s work and includes temporary exhibitions. It’s located at Carrer de les Carolines, 20-26.

After all that Gaudí, you’ll be ready for lunch. Find a café and rest your weary feet for a while. Afterward, jump back on the bus and head to the Sagrada Familia.

Sagrada Familia

You must get tickets for the Sagrada Familia well in advance. This ticket lets you skip the line and includes a guided tour and tower visit.

Choose the time you want to go—say, 11 or noon, if you start your day at the Casa Milà.

Arrive at least thirty minutes early. You’ll still queue but not for as long as the people who didn’t plan ahead. In fact, if you don’t get advance tickets, you may end up waiting three hours or longer. When I visited at 3 pm, people were being told that the next entrance time was 6 pm.

Sagrada Familia in Barcelona — Sagrada Familia Temple in Barcelona

I visited on a sweltering August day. While waiting for my appointed time, I jotted down a few notes:

Sticky hot, sweat pooling, most voices are Spanish. Hear the occasional Brit; a family of Italians at the bench across the way is having a spirited argument. Everyone’s face is red and slick. Flies land on scratched skin and settle in until flicked off.

Wearing black jeans with a polyester top in 35-degree heat and what feels like 80% humidity is a misguided fashion choice. The first taste of cold agua con gaz is raw and life-giving–a torrent of bubbles blazing down a desperate throat.

Inside the Sagrada Familia

At your scheduled time, if you’re not taking a tour, join the hordes trudging around the perimeter of the basilica to the entrance for ticket holders, and pick up an audio guide (included in the ticket price and very informative) as you enter.

Stop and gasp.

The interior of the Sagrada Familia, although heaving with tourists snapping photos, is breathtaking. I can’t think of a better word. I’ve visited my share of cathedrals and have a soft spot for stained glass, but I’ve never seen stained glass used with such joyous abandon.

Marvel at the abstract patterns in blues and golds and greens and reds that diffuse the Barcelona sun into fractured splashes of color across faces, walls, t-shirts, and floors. High above, star-shaped openings punch the roof to let the sun stream in like bolts of pure light.

Sink into a pew and just stare. The bustle of people surging around the area cordoned off for sitting and contemplating fades into hushed murmurs. Regardless of your religious convictions, you can’t help but appreciate the magnificence of the architecture as a fitting celebration of spirit. You may never want to leave.

The Sagrada Familia was started in the 1880s and is not yet finished. Cranes arch across the towers, and you’ll hear hammers pounding. After visiting the interior, take a leisurely walk around the building to admire the intricate sculptures encrusting the walls like artsy barnacles.

Parc Güell

If you’re visiting Barcelona in the summer, consider returning to your hotel to cool off for a while before venturing out to the Parc Güell. The Cram Hotel featured a rooftop pool that I was grateful for after my Sagrada Familia visit.

In the late afternoon, emerge refreshed and hop back on the bus. The Parc Güell features Gaudí’s fabulous mosaics and awesome views. When I visited with Gregg on a Sunday afternoon, we were convinced that half of Europe was in the park. We heard a lot of French, Italian, and Spanish but hardly any English.

Don’t miss the iconic Gaudí salamander, although you’ll be hard-pressed to get a people-free photo of it. Other attractions include the Hypostyle Room, Guard Museum, Gardens of Austria, and Nature Square.

The Dragon Salamander in the Parc Güell in Barcelona, Spain. — Parc Güell in Barcelona, Spain.

Get your tickets in advance to avoid line-ups and to guarantee entry.

Palau de la Música

Before you visit Barcelona, check the website to find out what’s on at the Palau de la Música. If tickets to a performance that interests you are available, get them. Sit up in the balcony to gape at the fabulous ceiling.

Interior of the Palau de la Musica in Barcelona — Interior of the Palau de la Música – take a guided tour

Another option is to visit the Palau de la Música on a guided tour. Whatever way you see this fabulous modernista building, make room for it in your Barcelona itinerary. Here’s a great option through GetYourGuide:

Day 2: Artsy Barcelona

Head first to the Barrí Gothic (Gothic Quarter) and get lost in its medieval streets. I love this part of Barcelona in the morning, when crowds are thin and the air is moderately cool.

Picasso Museum

After poking around the area, navigate to the Picasso Museum (Museu Picasso). Skip the line with a ticket you pre-purchased online and enjoy this homage to Picasso. You’ll see lots of work from his early years and get an excellent sense of his progression, from realism to abstraction and just about every 20th century art style in between, over the course of a very long life.

The museum also features special exhibitions that highlight aspects of Picasso’s work and relationships with other artists.

Consider a Picasso Walking Tour and Skip-the-Line ticket.

Barcelona Cathedral

Before you leave the Barrí Gothic, visit the Gothic-style cathedral, also known as La Seu. Notable is its 14th-century cloister full of palm trees and a Gothic portico where, apparently, 13 white geese wander. I didn’t count them.

The History Museum of Barcelona also looks intriguing although I haven’t yet visited.

Miró Foundation

The Fundació Joan Miró is fun to visit, whether or not you’re a Miró fan. The airy, light-filled building is part of its attraction. Designed by architect and city planner Josep Lluís Sert, the building is a leading example of avant-garde school of architecture in Catalonia.

If you’re new to Miró’s work, get the audio guide and learn what he was all about. His work makes me smile!

Where to Stay in Barcelona

I loved staying at the Cram Hotel in the Eixample district for obvious reasons! I told the attendant that my last name was Cram, but unfortunately, I didn’t get a discount! Apparently the name “Cram” comes from spelling the name of the owner’s son (Marc) backwards. This is a truly lovely hotel with a rooftop pool.

The Hotel Emilia is a bit farther from the center of the action, and the rooms are spacious.

I also recommend the Casp 74 Apartments near the Eixample district. The apartment hotel includes kitchens and an underground parking garage.

Barcelona Tour Options

Here are some other tour options in Barcelona with Tiqets.com:

Barcelona Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Barcelona!

Have you visited Barcelona? Share your recommendations in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts about destinations in Spain:

Traveling in Central Spain: Best Destinations for the Artsy Traveler

Destinations, Spain Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on January 18th, 2025 at 01:03 am

Traveling in central Spain is a commitment! Distances are vast and destinations spread out. You will drive and drive and drive–and not see a whole heck of a lot. The journey by car from Zaragoza in the east to Toledo just south of Madrid took us about six hours.

Fortunately, the long drives are rewarded with lots of see in the four cities described in this post: Madrid, Toledo, Zaragoza, and Salamanca.

Pinterest graphic with the text eploring the heart of spain under a picture of Toledo in Spain.

Here are the four places on a map.

Map created with Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

You’re most likely to visit Zaragoza and Salamanca if you’re driving into or out of Spain from France (Zaragoza) or Portugal (Salamanca).

The fastest way to reach Madrid is to either fly or to take a high-speed train from Barcelona. Once in Madrid, visit Toledo on a day trip with either a tour or on public transit, or stop in on your way south if you’re driving.

I suggest allocating at least three nights for Madrid and one night for each of the other three cities en route to other parts of Spain.

Traveling in Spain: Madrid is the Heart

Madrid is monumental. Large avenues lined with massive buildings give the city a solid but not terribly intimate feel.

Panoramic aerial view over Madrid, Spain.

On one trip we happened to visit on September 29, the national day of protest against proposed government cuts. Thousands of demonstrators in the central Puerta del Sol wore red and chanted “No!”.

We’d heard that the whole city was shut down, but, as tourists, we didn’t experience any inconvenience beyond the taxis taking longer routes to get to the museums and tacking on a €2 surcharge. Considering the fares were around €5, we weren’t bothered!

On another trip, we stayed for two weeks and loved having the time to thoroughly explore Madrid. Check out my post: Exploring Fascinating Madrid–Europe’s: Best-Kept Secret for the Artsy Traveler for more in depth information about exploring Madrid.

Map of Madrid

The map shows the location of the six major sites described in this post.

This map was created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Art Museums in Madrid

If you’re an art lover, you’re likely visiting Madrid to tour the Prado, the Reina Sofia, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum of Art—all located in Madrid’s “Golden Triangle of Art.”

The Prado

The Prado is simply wonderful. With over 7,000 paintings in its collection and around 1,500 on display, your artsy heart will be beating wildly. My favorite piece in the Prado is The Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch. It’s even more creepy and surreal in real life than in reproductions.

The Garden of Earthly Delights in the Museo del Prado in Madrid,
by Hieronymus Bosch , c. 1495–1505. — *The Garden of Earthly Delights* in the Museo del Prado in Madrid,
by Hieronymus Bosch , c. 1495–1505.

Other notable works in the Prado include Velasquez’s Las Meninas and other fine works, particularly those of the Spanish royal family, and Goya’s 6th of May and Las pinturas negras (The Black Paintings). You’ll also find great works by El Greco, Rubens, Bruegel, Rembrandt, and van Dyck.

Spare some time for the art of Spanish masters, such as Bartolomé Esteban Murillo and José de Ribera, and the stark figures of Francisco de Zurbarán. I’ve become partial to Zurbarán after seeing a major exhibition of his work in New York a few years ago. His figures are incredibly compelling.

Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

Visit the Thyssen-Bornemisza to see a huge range of art styles and artists spanning the centuries from the Middle Ages to the moderns.

It’s a veritable ‘who’s who’ of western art. Start on the second floor (the top floor) and work your way through the 13th and 14th centuries (my faves), check out the Portrait of King Henry VIII by Holbein the Younger, then stroll past Tintorettos, Titians, Caravaggios, et al.

The Thyssen-Bornemisza also includes masterpieces by van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Goya, Gainsborough, and Gauguin, to name a few. And then there are the moderns—Kandinsky, Picasso, Braque, Dali, and Madrid’s own Juan Gris.

Take your time and soak it all in!

Reina Sofia

You’ll probably want to spread your museum-going over two days. Seeing all three museums in the Golden Triangle in one day would be artsy suicide. Pace yourself!

Visit the Reina Sofia to view Picasso’s powerful Guernica, which he painted to protest the bombing of the Basque town of Guernica during the Spanish Civil War. The painting is displayed in a room of its own. Arrive early or late to view it without the crowds.

The rest of the museum houses an excellent collection of contemporary art, including works by Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró.

Botanical Gardens & Parque del Buen Retiro

I love European gardens, and these two parks adjacent to each other in Madrid are among the best. We spent a lot of time strolling through the botanical gardens to see a glorious display of dahlias (it was September) along with an outdoor exhibition of photographs documenting seminal moments in Spanish history from 1896 to the present.

Some of the shots were just amazing—dead bodies in the streets during the civil war, Franco riding in a car with Nixon, the Beatles wearing matador hats, and on and on—100 photographs. I wish I could have read the commentaries, but my Spanish is just about nil.

The Beatles visit Madrid in Spain — The Beatles visit Madrid!

From the botanical gardens, wander into the main gardens where you’ll come across an artificial lake, exhibition spaces, and monuments, including one to the 191 victims of the 11 March 2004 train bombings in Madrid. You’ll also find lots of trees and shady pathways. The park is a treat!

Plaza Mayor

The grand central square of Madrid is an attractive open space that features imposing architecture and Madrid’s central tourist office. I liked all the archways.

Old Madrid after Dark

Madrid after dark is cooking and intense. Grab a drink and some tapas in an outdoor café and watch the world go by, then wander farther to find another place for dinner. Be careful not to over-order in Madrid! Portions are massive, and much of the food is fried and wrapped in ham. It’s tasty but more than a bit on the stodgy side.

Madrid cuisine, appetizer - hearty food in Spain. — Madrid cuisine can be a bit heavy.

Gregg and I often order one dish to share. The servers don’t mind.

Tour the Royal Palace (Palacio Real)

The Royal Palace in Madrid is the largest palace in western Europe. With 2,800 rooms, it’s almost twice the size of Versailles.

You can tour of the palace to view the only surviving example of a Stradivarius quartet, a portion of the permanent art collection, and the Royal Kitchens (only open to the public since 2017).

Traveling in Spain: Don’t Miss Toledo

Take a day trip from Madrid to explore beautiful Toledo or drive there on your way south.

If you’re driving, head straight for the massive car park at the base of the city. You can’t miss it. Just be sure to note where you parked your car and where you exited. Take pictures of your stall, the floor number, and your exit.

We did not follow this advice and ended up walking miles out of our way late at night.

You can’t help but like Toledo. It’s charming with a capital C.

Perched on a hill, Toledo, the city on a hill, is a World Heritage Site famous for its monuments, its awesome cathedral, and for being the “City of the Three Cultures”, thanks to the cultural influences of Christians, Muslims, and Jews. The city was also the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom from 542 to 725 CE, which is kind of cool.

Here’s Gregg in front of the classic view of Toledo made famous in a painting by El Greco.

In front of the classic view of Toledo, Spain — Gregg Simpson in front of the classic view of Toledo, Spain

Toledo is a popular tour stop, so during the day, you’ll have to dodge busloads of tourists huffing and puffing through the narrow streets in the stifling heat. Scoot around them to get a look inside the stunning cathedral that lives up to the hype.

I was mesmerized by the choir stalls. The carving on each stall is different.

Toledo is the place to buy items made from the famous Toledo steel. Display windows bristle with swords and knives and other sharp things that would never make it through airport security in your carry-on bag. I bought several pairs of sewing scissors as gifts.

Store window display of swords in Toledo — Store window display in Toledo

In the evening, once the tour busses have left, the streets fill with locals. Weave through the streets of the old town in search of tapas and wine. You’ll find plenty!

Traveling in Spain: Visit Off the Beaten Track Zaragoza

You’ll likely visit Zaragoza en route to somewhere else. It makes a convenient stopping point for drivers coming from France through the Pyrenees. You can also break up the drive from Barcelona to Madrid in Zaragoza.

The city is the perfect one-night stop along a desolate stretch of a very large country. And you’ll have a chance to enjoy a virtually tourist-free Spanish city that has a great deal to offer the visitor.

Zaragoza Overview

As the capital of the province of Zaragoza and of the autonomous community of Aragon, Zaragoza is a good size, but the interesting part of the city is compact enough to stroll around with just one inexpensive taxi ride out to the Aljafería Palace.

Here’s a map of the city showing the sights mentioned in this post:

Places mapped by Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

The streets and shops are prosperous-looking, clean, and thronged with locals. You’re unlikely to see many tourists, although you’ll find an air-conditioned and well-staffed tourist office on the main plaza, so obviously tourists do go there.

A friendly young man at the tourist office told us where to go for cut-price tapas that evening. Apparently, there’s a street where all the tapas joints charge just €2 for a tapa and a glass of vino. Count me in!

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar

Zaragoza borders the Ebro River which you’ll probably drive across on your way into town and see again when you visit Zaragoza’s main sight—the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar (#1 on the map).

Cathedral and Ebro River in Zaragoza. Aragon, Spain — Cathedral and Ebro river in Zaragoza. Aragon, Spain

Built between 1681 and 1872, this massive Baroque cathedral with its fabulously tile-topped cupolas and turrets is worth a look. Wander around the vast aisles and check out the highlight—a roomful of paintings by Goya.

Zaragoza is Goya’s hometown, so across from the cathedral is a museum (#2) dedicated to his work. We didn’t visit it on this trip, instead opting to grab a cab to the Aljafería Palace which reportedly dates from Moorish times.

Aljafería Palace

We were virtually alone as we ambled through the various rooms to admire interesting exhibits and take photos of the attractive—and empty—courtyard complete with reflecting pond, palm trees, and arches. The Aljafería Palace (#3) is no Alhambra, but it’s worth a quick look.

In the evening, stroll through streets comfortably filled with locals to find tapas. We arrived at the place of the €2 tapas at 8 pm, only to find it and most others still closed. This is Spain, where things typically don’t get going until well past 9 or 10.

But persevere and you’ll find that even regular-priced tapas are not expensive. Zaragoza is a bargain for food and drink.

We stayed in the Hotel NH Collection Gran Hotel de Zaragoza (#4) which was comfortable albeit a bit bland. But the location was good and we could walk everywhere.

Traveling in Spain: Don’t Miss Lovely Salamanca

Visit Salamanca on your way to or from Portugal. If your accommodation budget extends to a splurge, book into the Parador de Salamanca, located about a fifteen-minute walk from the town.

Cathedral of Salamanca next to the river in Salamanca, Spain — Cathedral of Salamanca next to the river

Paradors in Spain are special hotels usually located in historic buildings, such as convents and palaces. They have a certain level of luxury with prices to match, although bargains can be had. Check the booking sites!

The parador in Salamanca is one of the few modern paradors in Spain. Its main claim to fame is its location overlooking the skyline of old Salamanca.

Here’s the view from our room:

Salamanca is a great place to visit for its old town, fabulous central plaza, and Casa Lis, a marvelous art nouveau museum. Here’s a map of the highlights mentioned in this post.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

Casa Lis Art Nouveau and Art Deco Museum

If you love art deco, you’ll adore this museum. La Casa Lis itself is an extraordinary building in the art nouveau style with plenty of stained glass. Exhibits of over 2,500 pieces of art deco and art nouveau objets d’art include porcelain figures, gold and ivory statues, enamels, bronze items, toys, and even Fabergé eggs.

The display of Paris fashion dolls from the late 1800s was especially compelling. Spend a couple of hours strolling from room to room in the virtually empty museum.

Plaza Mayor

Wander uphill into Salamanca’s lovely old town. Very little car traffic is allowed, so the streets are clear and easy to walk in. As the sun begins to go down, people flood into the streets to enjoy the evening air.

We arrived in the Plaza Mayor to find it packed with thousands of people waving placards. Just as in Madrid, Spain’s austerity measures were not going over well with the citizens of Salamanca. However, the protest was one of the most good-humored I’ve seen. The crowd consisted mostly of families and middle-aged or older people smiling and laughing as they periodically brandished their signs. The gist of most signs was a large, red “NO”.

If you encounter a protest (unlikely!), wait until it moves off , then snag a table to gaze out over what must be one of the loveliest plazas in Spain.

Enjoying Plaza Mayor

The Plaza Mayor appears to be square, lined on all four sides by uniform facades that date from the 18th century. Bands of young men dressed in medieval garb played Mexican-sounding music. We wondered why the music sounded so Mexican and were told by our server that Salamanca has maintained ties with Mexico and Latin America. Apparently, many of the Spanish people who emigrated to Mexico came from Salamanca, and some of the wealthier ones have returned to make Salamanca so prosperous looking. It’s a beautifully maintained city.

Around 10:30, when the light still hadn’t faded much (it was early July), the lights were turned on, and everyone in the square gasped, much to the amusement of our server who just rolled his eyes. I guess he sees it every night.

Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, Spain at night.

Traveling in Spain: Where to Stay in Central Spain

For accommodation suggestions in Madrid, Toledo, Zaragoza, and Salamanca, see Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks.

Conclusion

Have you visited the cities described in this post? Leave your comments below. Here are some more Artsy Traveler posts about Spain:

Where to Stay in Spain: My Best Picks

Destinations, Hotel Reviews, Spain, Travel Smart Artsy Traveler 3 Comments

Last updated on January 18th, 2025 at 01:04 am

I’ve had great luck finding marvelous places to stay in Spain. Hotel proprietors are friendly, and almost all of them speak English.

In this post, I provide general tips about accommodations in Spain and then list hotels that I’ve stayed in and can recommend.

Pinterest graphic with the text where to stay in spain: my best picks below a picture of a fancy hotel iin Ronda, Spain with blue sky above.

Choosing a Room

To Book or Not to Book?

I book almost all the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home so I know I have somewhere to stay in every location. Then, while traveling, I sometimes change bookings to follow a new route or in response to hearing about a cool location I hadn’t known about.

TIP: Stay flexible when you travel. You never know when you might meet someone who recommends a festival or event or exhibition. More than once, I’ve altered an itinerary to attend a special exhibition or visit a new attraction.

Choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book, change, or cancel hotel reservations if your itinerary changes. Most sites offer a no-cancellation option at a lower price. I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel. For example, I will select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from, because I know those locations won’t change.

But overall, stay flexible. I’ve learned that sticking to a rigid itinerary with no-cancellation accommodations can end up costing more money than you save.

Breakfasts in Spain

Breakfasts in Spain generally consist of pastries, fresh fruit, dry cereal, cold meats (lots of ham and salamis), cheeses, and coffee. I only eat the hotel breakfast if it’s included in the room rate or if I didn’t get a chance to buy food before checking in.

If hotel breakfasts cost extra (and the cost can be exorbitant), I buy yogurt and fruit at a local grocery store and then go to a bar or café for my morning cappuccino.

Location

In Spain in particular, I stay in the center of a town or city only if I’m not driving. As I’ve mentioned frequently, driving into medieval towns can be a nightmare, and driving into cities like Barcelona is not recommended!

The advantage of traveling in Spain by public transit is that you can choose to stay in picturesque and historic town centers. Grab a taxi from the train station and let your driver negotiate the tiny alleyways. In Cordoba, even our taxi driver had a hard time finding our hotel deep in the Jewish quarter.

Tips for Drivers in Spain

When driving in Spain, I book places on the outskirts of the town or city and then take busses or taxis into the town for sightseeing. In rural areas, such as Andalusia and Asturias, I search out places located in the gorgeous countryside so I can take walks and, if it’s hot, enjoy a dip in the pool.

Paradors

Consider spending at least a few nights of your vacation at one of Spain’s gorgeous paradors (paradores). A parador is a government-run property selected for its historical and artistic merit or for its location in a beautiful landscape. Over 90 paradors are located throughout Spain.

Some of the paradors are converted palaces, medieval castles, or other historic buildings. The parador experience can be pricey, but it’s definitely worthwhile and interesting. Check the official website to view all the properties available. You can book paradors through the website or on booking.com

Parador of Cuenca - a converted monastery on a cliff east of Madrid — Parador de Cuenca in Cuenca, east of Madrid, is located in an ancient monastery.

Star Rating

I favor three- or four-star properties that offer amenities such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, and WIFI.

I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters will be small, with a child-sized shower stall and barely enough room to wedge your suitcase against the wall.

Reviews – Should You Care?

Yes, I pay attention to reviews. If a property’s aggregate review is under 8.0 out of a possible 10, I usually pass. Sometimes the difference between a property with a 9.6 review and one with an 8.2 review is only a few euros, and yet the quality of the higher-rated property makes the extra money worth spending.

You have to take reviews with a grain of salt, however. Just because a property has a score of 9.8 doesn’t meant it’s five-star luxury. Check the star rating, remember that a 9.8 score for a two-star hotel is not the same as a 9.8 for a four-star, and proceed accordingly.

TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in Spain and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.

For more tips on finding accommodations, read Six Steps to Making Awesome Accommodation Choices in Europe.

Accommodation Options by Region in Spain

To help you plan your Spain getaway, here are my recommendations. For each destination, I describe properties I’ve stayed in and offer suggestions for alternate properties that look good.

Click the link to the hotel to make a reservation with booking.com.

Barcelona

Barcelona is not a budget town by any stretch. Be prepared to spend more than you might like to; fortunately, in my experience, the quality of the accommodations is high.

I recommend two excellent hotels in Barcelona. Both are centrally located and comfortable. The Hotel Emilia is a bit farther from the center of the action, and the rooms are spacious.

The Cram Hotel in the Eixample district has earned a soft spot in my heart, for obvious reasons. It was a splurge, but the rooftop pool, views over Barcelona, and the convenient location made the extra cost well worth it, particularly because I was traveling solo.

Check the map below for other accommodation options in Barcelona. I favor the upscale Eixample district, but you’ll also find good choices in the Barri Gòtic and other areas.

Booking.com

Northern Spain

Santiago de Compostela

The Hotel Virxe da Cerca by Pousadas de Compostela was a marvelous find in Santiago de Compostela. We stayed almost a week when Gregg has his exhibition at the Granell Museum. The hotel is next to the Plaza de Abastos market and an easy walk to the cathedral in the old town. I loved hanging out on the terrace, sipping wine and enjoying the view. The rooms were traditional, with heavy furniture and lots of space. Highly recommended!

Santiago de Compostela attracts thousands of visitors every year, so you’ll find plenty of accommodation options. Santiago de Compostela also has a parador that looks amazing if you’re in the mood for a splurge.

Have a look at the map below for additional accommodation suggestions.

Booking.com

Llanes

We stayed at the Don Paco Hotel, a three-star property set in a restored convent dating from the 17th century. The high-ceilinged dining room that had once been the convent chapel is magnificent! The hotel is within walking distance of central Llanes and includes free parking (always a bonus!).

Bilbao

We enjoyed staying for one night at the Hotel Meliá, a posh splurge but perfectly located for walking along the river to the Guggenheim Bilbao and easy to get to from the highway. The hotel includes an underground parking lot, stylish rooms with a great view over Bilbao, a soaring lobby, and a riverside terrace where we ate breakfast and lunch.

San Sebastian

The Hotel Mercure Monte Igueldo, high atop Mount Igueldo overlooking enchanting San Sebastian (Donostia), is well worth a few extra euros for the view alone. You’ll need a car to stay here and to go down into San Sebastian.

If you’re traveling without a car, here are other options:

Booking.com

Andalusia

Cordoba

Book a place in the Old Town, even if it means leaving your car in a carpark and walking. You’ll be steps from the Cathedral-Mosque and in the thick of history. We stayed in a boutique hotel with a tranquil inner courtyard.

Check the map below to find properties in the center of Cordoba.

Booking.com

Granada

I heartily recommend Suites Gran Via in Granada. The location is convenient to the center of Granada, and the rooms are large and comfortable. A small kitchen is included, which is handy for making breakfast.

The map below shows more options in and around Granada.

Booking.com

Seville

We’ve had great luck in Seville–once staying at a hotel in the old town and most recently staying in an apartment overlooking the river. I recommend you stay in the old town if you’re not driving. The Hotel Amadeus & La Musica is a wonderful choice right in the heart of Old Seville. There’s a rooftop terrace with a stunning view of Seville Cathedral. Gregg spent quite a bit of time up there drawing.

On our 2019 trip, we were driving, so we booked a hotel across the river from downtown Seville. What a great choice! We parked in a public parking lot about half a block from the apartment and enjoyed a spectacular view of the river and Seville Cathedral in the distance. Check out Betis 7 Luxury Apartments. The cost was surprisingly reasonable for an apartment that included a bedroom, kitchen and living room, a jacuzzi bath, and glorious air conditioning (a necessity in July).

Here are other options in Seville.

Booking.com

Ronda

One of the hippest places to stay in Ronda is the Parador de Ronda, pictured at the top of this page. Its spectacular location at the edge of the Ronda gorge comes at a price–but what a splurge!

On our recent trip in 2019, we opted to stay in the countryside about a 15-minute drive from Ronda, and we’re glad we did. The weather was hot, and we needed a place to chill in. The Hotel Cortijo-las-Piletas perfectly fit the bill. They even provided an excellent dinner served in the courtyard on one of the evenings we were there. The proprietor was exceedingly friendly and accommodating. I can’t recommend this place highly enough.

Here are more options in Ronda.

Booking.com

Central Spain

Following are suggestions for hotels in Madrid, Toledo, Zaragoza, and Salamanca.

Madrid

The Suites Viena are spacious and well located near the Plaza España that featured lots of cool booths filled with jewelry and other gift items.

I also highly recommend the ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini located just to the west of the center of Madrid and across the street from the Royal Palace.. It’s located just outside the Limited Access zone on a main road easily accessed from the motorway, and a short walk from the historical center of Madrid.

Here are other options in Madrid:

Booking.com

Toledo

The Abad Toledo at the base of the hill and very convenient to a massive multi-level car park is a great choice for drivers. If you arrive by train, choose a place in the Old Town that you can get to by taxi.

On the map below, choose places on the city side of the river.

Booking.com

Zaragoza

The NH Collection Gran Hotel Zaragoza is a comfortable business hotel in Sangallo Palace that includes balconies, views, and what looks like a lovely ambiance near Perugia.

Salamanca

Treat yourself to the Parador in Salamanca. The rooms are large, the pool inviting, and views over Salamanca breathtaking. The Parador is a great choice for drivers because it’s on the outskirts of the city. You can walk into Salamanca or take a bus or taxi.

Tours & Tickets in Spain

Here are some options to explore through GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com, both companies I’ve booked with several times, and had good experiences.

Do you have accommodation recommendations to share? Please let me know in the Comments section. I’m always on the lookout for new places to stay in Spain.

Here are some more posts about Spain:

Exploring the Best of San Gimignano in Tuscany

Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler 4 Comments

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:28 pm

Known as the City of Towers, the medieval town of San Gimignano in Tuscany is an entrancing place that I never tire of exploring.

Yes, plenty of crowds surge through San Gimignano, especially on hot summer days. You’ll also find loads of tourist dreck in the shops.

But unlike some of Italy’s most visited cities (think Florence!), San Gimignano manages to retain its medieval charm.

I’ve visited San Gimignano numerous times and even set my first novel there (The Towers of Tuscany).

I’ve nowhere near stopped loving it!

Pinterest graphic with the text "Exploring San Gimignano in Tuscany" over a picture of the towers of San Gimignano in Tuscany, Italy.

San Gimignano at a Glance

Visit San Gimignano 1300 and find out what the town looked like in the 14th Century
View the marvelous frescoes in the Museo Civico and the Duomo
Climb the Torre Grossa to see stunning views of the Tuscan countryside
Spend an evening in the town at one of the many gourmet restaurants
Stay in a place outside the city with the view of the towers: the Hotel Pescille is a good bet

San Gimignano Snapshot

Even if you visit San Gimignano on the most tourist-heavy days, you need only walk a few paces away from the main thoroughfare (Via San Giovanni) to find yourself virtually alone in a quiet back street.

Hear birds twittering and watch an old guy sweeping his front stoop.

The small side streets in San Gimignano are quiet and crowd-free.

The heaving, sweating, shopping masses of humanity packing the piazzas and dripping gelato on the cobblestones are a distant memory.

Map of San Gimignano

Here’s a map of San Gimignano. It’s a very small and walkable city. You can cross it from gate to gate in about fifteen minutes. Also included are my three recommended hotels.

Trip map created using Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android

Welcome to the 14th Century

You’re in the 14th century! Your long gown swishes around your legs, you listen for the bells that divide your days and regulate your life.

If you’re a woman, you might be on your way to the baker for a loaf of fresh bread or to the church to make confession. If you’re a man, you could be meeting a kinsman to settle a festering vendetta or to chat with a fellow guild member about the crocus trade.

In the Middle Ages, much of San Gimignano’s wealth came from the cultivation of saffron from the stamens of crocuses. Also lucrative was textile manufacturing and the production of Vernaccia, a lovely white wine still produced today (it’s very good!).

Walk up to the ruined fortezza. There, you’ll not only rarely find many tourists, you’ll enjoy this stunning view of the towers of San Gimignano.

View of the city of San Gimignano, Italy

When you walk the back streets of San Gimignano in the 21st century, you’re only an ounce of imagination away from the Middle Ages.

The Towers of San Gimignano

San Gimignano is famous for its towers. In fact, the town is often referred to as the Tuscan city of towers because 14 medieval towers are still standing. In its heyday in the 14th century, over 72 towers dominated San Gimignano’s skyline.

But even with only 14 towers, the town of San Gimignano is one of the most beautiful medieval towns in all of Italy.

Why So Many Towers?

Every medieval city had towers back in the day, but San Gimignano is unique because so many of its towers remain.

Why so many towers? We can safely assume that the medieval merchants didn’t build them to give 21st-century tourists something to point their iPhones at.

Wealthy citizens frequently competed with each other to build the tallest towers above their homes. In fact, the Podesta passed a law prohibiting any private citizen from building a tower higher than the Torre Grossa, the municipal hall which survives to this day.

The citizens of San Gimignano were a bellicose lot who sometimes attacked and destroyed towers belonging to their rivals.

The family feuds that form the basis of the Romeo and Juliet story were definitely not fiction. Vendetta and its accompanying violence were the all-too-common ways to resolve differences.

History of San Gimignano

The Etruscans first settled San Gimignano in the 4th century BC, but significant growth did not occur until 1000 to 1200. Thanks to its proximity to the Via Francigena, a major route across Italy, San Gimignano was an important stopover for travelers, pilgrims, and merchants.

The town became steadily more prosperous until it declared itself a free Commune in 1199.

In 1300, Dante Alighieri came to San Gimignano, and in 1317 the famous painter Lippo Memmi opened a workshop. With his father, Lippo Memmi painted a fresco cycle in the town hall that you can see today.

I include the frescoes in my post on Art Masterpieces in Tuscany You Don’t Want to Miss and below – see Frescoes, Frescoes, and More Frescoes.

San Gimignano prospered until the mid-14th century when in 1348 it was devastated by the plague, also known as the Black Death. More than half of the population died in a six-month period.

Following the pestilence that also ravaged most of western Europe, San Gimignano never recovered its former glory and at the end of the 14th century was finally obliged to submit to Florentine rule.

The town’s website provides an excellent overview of San Gimignano’s rise and fall over the centuries. The town is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

How to Get to San Gimignano

San Gimignano is about a 45 minute drive or a two-hour bus ride from Florence. Touring Tuscany by car is probably the best way to see the countryside.

When you arrive, park in one of the parking lots at the base of the town. As you enter San Gimignano, you’ll see electronic signs telling you which parking lots have space. The town is well prepared for the daily onslaught of visitors.

From the parking lots, take the elevator up as far as it goes (not far) and then take the short walk into the historic centre of San Gimignano.

What To See in San Gimignano

San Gimignano’s main attraction is the town itself–the cobbled streets, the towers, the Tuscan ambience.

But you’ll also find several worthwhile attractions to explore, including my favorite, San Gimignano 1300.

San Gimignano 1300

The San Gimignano 1300 (#1) museum contains an amazing scale model of San Gimignano as it appeared in the year 1300 with its 72 towers intact.

Not long after I started my novel, The Towers of Tuscany, about a woman painter in the 14th century, I came across the website for San Gimignano 1300.

I could not believe my luck! Someone had very thoughtfully recreated the entire city in which much of the novel’s action takes place.

I had to see it! A few months after I found San Gimignano 1300 on the web, I was there in person. Few things get in the way of an historical novelist on a research warpath!

A portion of the scale model of San Gimignano at San Gimignano 1300

San Gimignano 1300 moved to a smaller venue a few years after I first saw it. The model is now divided into two sections, but you still get a good sense of how the city must have looked in 1300.

The staff at San Gimignano 1300 are lovely. I’ve returned several times in the last few years to replenish their supply of The Towers of Tuscany.

With the manager of San Gimignano 1300 where The Towers of Tuscany is available — With the manager of San Gimignano 1300 where *The Towers of Tuscany* is available

Frescoes, Frescoes, and More Frescoes

Unlike many Italian towns, San Gimignano is stuck in a medieval time warp. Most of the best art was created during the Middle Ages rather than the Renaissance.

I’m a medieval girl at heart and prefer the flatter, more stylized work of the medieval painters to the florid, somewhat over-produced paintings of the Renaissance.

Museo Civico

The first stop for art lovers should be the frescoes in the Museo Civico. Painted by Memmo de Filippuccio and his son Lippo Memmi in 1317, the frescoes portray scenes of everyday life.

Such scenes were a rarity at a time when the vast majority of frescoes and paintings depicted religious subjects.

I like best the two scenes showing a newly married couple first enjoying a communal bath together (ooh la la) and then climbing into bed.

Detail from a fresco by Memmo de Filippuccio & Lippo Memmi in the Museo Civico in San Gimignano

The scene depicting the couple getting into bed shows them as naked. While researching The Towers of Tuscany, I learned that people often slept naked to get a break from the wee beasties that infested their heavy gowns. Also, I imagine that summers in San Gimignano were as hot in the 14th century as they are today.

Another fabulous fresco in the Museo Civico is The Maestà by Lippo Memmi. Commissioned in 1317, the fresco is said to have been inspired by Simone Martini’s Maestà from the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena.

The fresco shows Mary seated on a throne surrounded by adoring saints and angels.

Frescoes in the Cathedral of San Gimignano

Other frescoes worth seeing in San Gimignano cover the walls of the cathedral (the Duomo – #2) in the Piazza Duomo in the town center.

One set, painted by Bartolo di Fredi in 1356, depicts scenes from the Old Testament. I particularly like the figure of Noah lying drunk on the ground, his gown open to reveal that he is definitely not wearing his boxer shorts. There’s nothing new under the sun!

Another set of frescoes depicting Hell was painted by Benozzo Gozzoli in 1465. The frescoes are terrifyingly realistic. You might want to avoid them if you’re traveling with children.

Torre Grossa

The tallest tower in San Gimignano, at 54 meters (178 feet), is the Torre Grossa (#3), part of the Palazzo Comunale where the Museo Civico is housed.

It’s worth the effort to climb to the top and see the stunning view. If it’s a fine day, go early or late to avoid the crowds.

Torre Grossa in San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy

Here’s an option for tickets to the Torre Grossa and the Duomo:

San Gimignano at Night

Ahhhh….! The tour buses have puffed their way down the hill, the shops are shuttered, and peace descends.

Thanks to floodlit towers, the darkness never gets close to the black intensity of the olden days, but your imagination can still get a workout.

You’ll find plenty of good places to eat in San Gimignano. In recent years, the town has become something of a mecca for gourmets. But wherever you decide to eat, make sure you order a glass or two of the delightfully white vernaccia di San Gimignano wine.

Afterwards, walk off the dinner and wine with a stroll through the fast emptying piazzas. The later it gets, the quieter the streets become.

And, unlike in the 14th century, walking the streets of San Gimignano after dark is not dangerous. No assassins are intent on revenging a vendetta; no watchmen are standing by to clamp into irons people ignoring curfews.

Piazza della Cisterna in San Gimignano at night

When to Visit

The best times for a visit to San Gimignano are late spring when the surrounding countryside is drenched in the freshest greens imaginable and in September/October when golden light and crisp days make sightseeing a pleasure.

Just remember to take along a rain jacket and a sweater.

Where to Stay in San Gimignano

In your Tuscany itinerary, allocate at least one night and preferably two nights to staying near San Gimignano. Most bus tours pop in and out for a few hours, staying just long enough for people to sip a cappuccino, climb a tower, and go shopping.

If you really want to experience this lovely town, stay a while, preferably at one of the lovely hotels in the gorgeous countryside Here are three options, all of which I’ve stayed in and can heartily recommend.

Cappuccina Country Resort is situated north of San Gimignano and commands a wonderful view of the towers from its swimming pool
Also north of San Gimignano is the lovely Villa Ducci with friendly staff and rooms overlooking the towers.
Hotel Pescille is on the opposite side of San Gimignano. Ask for a room that overlooks the valley with the towers of San Gimignano beyond.

Tours to San Gimignano

One way to see San Gimignano if you don’t have a car is on a day trip from Florence. If you’re short on time, then taking a tour that drops you at the gates of this enchanting city is certainly better than not visiting at all! Here’s an option with GetYourGuide that includes Siena and a wine tour.

Conclusion

Have you visited San Gimignano? Share your tips and suggestions for other artsy travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts about traveling in Tuscany:

Recommended Places to Stay in Italy That Will Make Great Memories

Destinations, Hotel Reviews, Italy, Travel Smart Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:37 pm

I’ve had great luck finding marvelous places to stay in Italy.

Hotel proprietors are friendly, and these days almost all of them speak English.

In this post, I provide general tips about accommodations in Italy and list hotels I recommend.

Pinterest graphic with the text Recommended Places to Stay in Italy That will make great memories over an old wall with a hotel sign.

Choosing a Room

To Book or Not to Book?

I book almost all the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home so I know I’ll have places to stay in every location. While traveling, I sometimes change bookings to follow a new route or in response to hearing about a cool location I hadn’t known about.

Choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book and then cancel hotel reservations as your itinerary changes. Most sites offer you a no-cancellation option at a lower price. I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel. For example, I’ll select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from because I know those locations won’t change.

But overall, stay flexible. I’ve learned from experience that sticking to a rigid itinerary with no-cancellation accommodations can end up costing you more money than you save.

Breakfasts – Prima Colazione

Breakfasts in Italy usually consist of scrumptious pastries, fresh fruit, dry cereal, cold meats and cheeses, and coffee. I only eat the hotel breakfast if it’s included in the room rate or if I didn’t get a chance to buy food before checking in.

If hotel breakfasts cost extra (and the cost can be exorbitant), I buy yogurt and fruit at a local grocery store and then go to a bar or café for my morning cappuccino.

Location

In Italy in particular, I only stay in the center of a town or city if I’m not driving. As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, driving into medieval hill towns can be a nightmare, and driving into cities like Rome is definitely not recommended!

A great advantage of traveling in Italy by public transit is that you can choose to stay in picturesque and historic town centers (centros). Grab a taxi from the train station and let your driver negotiate the tiny cobbled alleyways while you enjoy watching the passing throngs and imagining yourself back in the Middle Ages.

Tips for Drivers in Italy

When driving in Italy, I book places on the outskirts of the town or city and then take trams or taxis into the centro for sightseeing. In rural areas, like Tuscany and Umbria, I always book places located in the gorgeous countryside so I can take walks and, if it’s hot, enjoy a dip in the pool.

When selecting a hotel outside a city, I usually opt for a modern business hotel that includes free parking. Chains such as NH, Blu, and Best Western are generally reliable.

TIP: For a taste of la dolce vita, consider booking an agriturismo property for a week or more in a rural area. Attached to a working farm or vineyard, these properties provide you with opportunities to meet local families and to sample local food.

Star Rating

Over the years, I’ve stayed in many clean and well-run budget hotels in Italy, but these days I favor three- or four-star properties because I appreciate amenities such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, and in-room WIFI.

I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters will be small, with a child-size shower stall and barely enough room to wedge your suitcase against the wall.

Reviews – Should You Care?

TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in Italy and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.

Accommodation Options by Region

To help you plan your Italy getaway, here are my recommendations. For each destination, I describe properties I’ve stayed in along and suggest alternate properties that look good.

You can click the link to the hotel to make a reservation with booking.com.

Northern Italy

Turin

The Parco Hotel Sassi, located 4 kilometers from Turin, worked well for us when we were driving from France to Italy. We checked the pictures of the hotel and noted it was surrounded by the greenery of the Po Natural Park. When booking hotels on the outskirts of a town, make sure you don’t end up in a dreary suburb. Parco Hotel Sassi is situated in an attractive area outside of Turin.

We appreciated the large rooms, beautiful grounds, and proximity to a family restaurant that served one of the best meals we’ve had in Italy. We left the car in the free car park and hopped the tram to get into Turin.

On another trip to Turin, we stayed in an apartment in the heart of the city. This was a great choice because we were staying in Turin for ten days and wanted to be able to walk everywhere. We parked our car in an underground lot nearby.

Called the Casa Vittoria, the two-0bedroom, well-appointed apartment was great value and in an excellent location for exploring lovely Turin.

Milan

I can’t recommend the nondescript 3-star hotel we stayed in while visiting Milan a few years ago. It was located near the train station and was a bit on the dark and small side. I don’t recommend getting places too close to the train station in big cities. In my experience, such hotels tend to be rather soul-less!

I’ve provided two options located in the lively center of Milan for travelers who are not traveling by car (take a taxi from the train station). If you are traveling by car, check the maps and select a hotel located near the main highway of your route into the city. Note that Milan is not as crazy to drive in as, say, Rome. However, it is a big city, and, as a rule, steering clear of big cities is the less stressful option. After all, you’re on vacation!

I once stayed in a teeny tiny room in a business hotel near Malpensa airport, but I can’t recommend it unless you have an early flight to catch.

In central Milan, Antica Locanda Dei Mercanti looks like an excellent, relatively high-end choice located close to the Sforza Castle and featuring terraces and views. The reviews are excellent, and the rooms appear quite spacious. The hotel includes an airport shuttle, but parking is €38 a day so probably not the best choice for drivers.

Also in central Milan, Hotel Gran Duca Di York is a three-star hotel in an excellent location near the Duomo. Ratings are good, although room sizes are not specified for all room types, and some look small. However, the price is reasonable, considering it’s Milan..

Have a look at the map below for additional accommodation options in Milan.

Booking.com

Bolzano

The Hotel Magdalener-Hof, high on a hill above Bolzano, was a perfect stop for us when we were en route to Venice after crossing into Italy through the Brenner Pass from Austria. We had a dip in the pool overlooking the view and then caught the local bus into Bolzano to wander its colorful streets before enjoying dinner at a restaurant on the town square. At the end of the evening, we grabbed a taxi back to the hotel for about €5–much easier and less stressful than driving into town and looking for parking.

Dolomites

We drove up into the Dolomites to the picturesque Alpine village of Seis and stayed in the Parc Hotel Florian. The view from our balcony of needle-sharp Mount Schlern looming above the village was fabulous–exactly the view of the Dolomites I’d hoped for. The hotel included a hearty dinner, which was great because restaurant options in the area were limited. The hotel makes a good home base if you plan to spend a few days in the area and take lifts up to the Alpe di Siusi to go hiking.

Venice and Ravenna

Venice

If you have the time, rent an apartment in Venice and stay for a week. Live like a local, not that you’ll see many locals these days. Venetians are moving out of the city at an alarming rate. But at least you’ll experience shopping in tiny local grocery stores and get to know your way around a neighborhood.

If you’re staying in Venice for two or three days, consider the Dorsoduro district across the Grand Canal from the Piazza San Marco. I recommend you avoid the area immediately adjacent to Piazza San Marco. Hotels there can be expensive, and the tiny streets in the area are wall-to-wall tourists during the day.

Here are suggestions for hotels that we have stayed in–one in the Dorsoduro and one near the Rialto Bridge.

Hotel Canaletto: We stayed there a few years ago and loved it. The rooms were small, but that’s par for the course in Venice. The location, just 200 meters from Rialto Bridge, was fantastic as was its situation on a charming side canal.

Hotel Messner is a more modest option, located in the Dorsoduro neighborhood close to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. It was quiet, and the area was peaceful and uncrowded, particularly at night.

For other options in Venice, check the map below. Resist the temptation to stay on the mainland. The savings will be minimal once you take into account train fares and your time. Stay in the middle of Venice and enjoy this unique city.

Booking.com

Ravenna

We were driving when we visited Ravenna, so we stayed at the Grand Hotel Mattei, about a ten-minute taxi ride from the center of Ravenna. The hotel was large and modern and included free parking–a perfect choice! When we’re driving in Italy, convenience usually wins out over charm.

The map below shows more options in and around Ravenna.

Booking.com

Tuscany

We’ve stayed in marvelous hotels and bed-and-breakfasts in Tuscany–some in the countryside and some in the towns. You’ll find amazing villa properties in Tuscany and pay equally amazing prices. Most of my suggestions are in the modest €80-150 per night range.

Florence

One of the best weeks I spent in Florence was at a rented house high above the city, near Fiesole. While swimming in the pool, we could see the Duomo shimmering in the distance. If you have the time and a car, consider renting a house a few kilometers outside Florence. You can then drive to one of the parking lots on the perimeter of the city and catch a bus into the centro.

Here are two suggestions for hotels I’ve stayed at in central Florence.

Hotel Pitti Palace at Ponte Vecchio is a great choice because it’s across the Ponte Vecchio in the atmospheric and marginally less crowded San Giovanni district. I stayed there on a solo trip to Florence and was especially taken by the views from the rooftop bar. Highly recommended.

View from the rooftop bar at the Hotel Pitti Palace in Florence

The Hotel Alba Palace is an elegant property in a good location near Santa Maria Novella Basilica.

If you’re driving, you do not want to drive into central Florence. Instead, find a place on the outskirts and take a bus. Here are two places we’ve stayed in that I recommend.

The Hotel Ungherese is a two-star, budget option that includes a statue-filled garden, views over Florence, spacious rooms, and easy parking. It’s a good bargain and not far from Florence on the local bus. The Hilton Garden Hotel Florence Novoli is a four-star, reasonably-priced property a 15-minute bus ride from the center of Florence. The hotel is slick and modern and lacking in charm. However, it’s easy to find, and parking is underground and secure.

For other accommodation options in Florence, check the map below.

Booking.com

San Gimignano

I heartily recommend three places outside the walls of San Gimignano that I’ve stayed in over the years. My favorite is the Hotel Pescille which I’ve stayed in at least four times since we discovered it back in 1999!

Hotel Pescille: This three-star establishment has a killer view over the valley to the towers of San Gimignano. I keep returning to the Hotel Pescille for its simple but comfortable rooms, its fabulous location in the Tuscan countryside, and the rustic furnishings. The walls in the common areas are decorated with farm implements, and ceramic pumpkins adorn niches and stairwells. The Hotel Pescille is located about a five-minute drive south of San Gimignano.

On our most recent trip, we took several walks near the hotel to admire the view. Here’s a shot of San Gimignano from a vantage point close to the Hotel Pescille. Look at those clouds!

San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy — I give you San Gimignano!

Relais Cappuccina: On the north side of San Gimignano, the Relais Cappuccina affords a different–and equally stunning–panoramic view of San Gimignano than that of the Hotel Pescille. The pool at this hotel is lovely, thanks to its situation overlooking San Gimignano. Our room was spacious and bright and included a terrace.

The swimming pool at the Relais Cappuccina with San Gimignano in the distance

Villa Ducci: I stayed here on my own while researching my novel, The Towers of Tuscany, and loved it. The staff were friendly and helpful. They even allowed me to view the cellar with its 14th-century foundations that later played a role in the novel. The Villa Ducci, like the Relais Cappuccina, is located on the north side of San Gimignano. Here’s a sunrise view of the town I snapped one morning.

Sunrise over San Gimignano seen from my balcony at the Villa Ducci

The map below shows more options for staying in or near San Gimignano. If you’re traveling without a car, consider one of the hotels in the center of the town so you can enjoy moonlit strolls around the medieval streets before turning in.

Booking.com

Siena

Palazzo Masi: This small bed-and-breakfast in the center of Siena is steps from the Campo and located in a building that dates from the 14th century. I stayed here while researching The Towers of Tuscany. It’s a great choice if you’re not driving in Siena.

Athena Hotel: This is a wonderful choice if you’re driving because it’s located just inside the city walls and easily accessible. The rooms are large and the views over the countryside spectacular. We’ll stay there again, for sure.

Check the map for more accommodation options in Siena. If you’re driving, choose properties at or near the city walls rather than in the center of the city where access is tight and parking at a premium.

Booking.com

Tarquinia

Casale Dinelli: This is a lovely agriturismo property near Tarquinia, consisting of two small guest cottages set in beautiful grounds that included vegetable gardens we were welcome to raid.

Charming cottage accommodations at the Casale Dinelli

Breakfast food supplied; strawberries fresh from the garden

Umbria

We stayed for ten days in Umbria in an amazing apartment attached to the gallery where Gregg had an exhibition. Located outside the lovely little town of Gualdo Tadino, the place made a wonderful home base for exploring the principal towns of Umbria.

Because we chose a homestay for our Umbria visit in 2018, most of my recommendations for these towns are based on user reviews rather than personal experience. We did, however, stay in the Hotel Valentino in Orvieto the first time we visited Umbria.

Assisi

The Vico del Poeta looks like an excellent, medieval bed-and- breakfast in Assisi. Reviews are good, and free parking is included (always a bonus!).

Grand Hotel Assisi: I like the look of this place–panoramic views, a swimming pool, and a reasonable price.

Orvieto

Hotel Valentino is situated in the centro storico (the historical center) of Orvieto but is accessible by car. We loved being in the middle of the medieval action here–able to stroll the cobbled streets after all the crowds were gone. The hotel itself is old and rather dark but comfortable and clean. A solid choice.

Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini has great ratings and looks pretty posh but with a reasonable price.

Agriturismo Podere Pescara is located in the countryside near Orvieto. The surroundings look amazing! Very Tuscan.

Perugia

Sangallo Palace includes balconies, views, and what looks to be a lovely ambiance near Perugia.

Marche

I have to put in a plug for the Hotel Emilia, high on a cliff overlooking the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy. If you drive east through Umbria, you’ll likely end up in the Marche, the biggest city being Ancona on the coast. Once a bit off the tourist track, the region is getting more popular and for good reason.

The Hotel Emilia is wonderful; stunning views and fabulous modern sculptures and paintings decorate the grounds and public rooms. We stayed for two nights, relaxing in the gardens overlooking the misty view of the legend-shrouded Adriatic, taking long walks along the cliff top, and enjoying a beachside dinner in the village of Portonovo a few minutes’ drive down the hill. We were there in May, which is still the off-season. I gather that in the summer, the beach is mobbed!

View over Portonovo from the Hotel Emilia

Rome

We tend to favor apartments when staying in Rome. Our favorite location is in the tiny streets leading into the Piazza Navona. One year we had an apartment that included a rooftop terrace! Hotels are plentiful but not budget-friendly in Rome. Here are two hotels and one apartment I’ve stayed in that I recommend.

Deko Rome is a small bed-and-breakfast located close to the Borghese Gardens in a lovely residential area of Rome. I stayed there when I traveled to Rome on my own and found it comfortable and budget-friendly.

Hotel Paba is a small, two-star hotel that occupies the second floor of a residential building conveniently located on the Via Cavour, not far from the Colosseum. In fact, you can see the Colosseum from the street. The decor is old-fashioned and cosy and the price reasonable, considering the central location.

Viam 16B Suites is probably my very favorite suite hotel I’ve stayed in anywhere in Europe. It’s stylish, includes a private terrace, and is located in a great area of Rome – close to the Piazza Popolo and the Spanish Steps.

Check the map for more accommodation options in Rome. I suggest the area around the Piazza Navona or the less touristy Trastevere.

Booking.com

Campania

Naples

We stayed in the Hotel Paradiso. Located on Posillipo Hill, the hotel has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.

Sorrento

The Hotel Eden has a central location in Sorrento, with rooms on the upper floors overlooking the stunning view of the Bay of Naples. Lush gardens and a pool provide a welcome oasis. This is a good choice for Sorrento, although not budget-friendly.

Positano

We didn’t stay in Positano, so my recommendations are based on what I think looks good. Prices are high in this holiday mecca, so if Positano is above your price range, consider staying longer in Sorrento and taking a day tour down the Amalfi coast.

In Positano, the über posh Sirenuse Hotel is über expensive, but if you’re budget runs to it – wowee! Scenes from Only You were filmed there.

A more budget-friendly option is the Villa Antonietta that still has sea views but is much more modestly appointed.

Paestum

The Hotel Savoy, steps from the beach near Paestum is an awesome place to stay. It’s super luxurious and yet surprisingly affordable.

Tours & Tickets in Italy

Here are some options to explore through GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com, both companies I’ve booked with several times, and had good experiences.

Do you have accommodation recommendations to share? Please let me know in the Comments section. I’m always on the lookout for new places to stay in Italy. I’m always on the lookout for new places to stay in Italy.

Here are some more posts to enjoy while you’re planning your trip to Italy:

The Best of Rome in Three Days

Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:28 pm

Rome wasn’t built in a day so don’t try to see all of it in a day. You’ll exhaust yourself and come away feeling ripped off.

The Eternal City demands your time. Even three full days doesn’t come close to doing justice to Bella Roma, but it’s better than one.

This post presents my suggestions for how to spend three full days in the eternal city.

Pinterest graphic with the text Best of Rome in Three Days. The picture above the text is of the Roman Forum and the picture below the text is of a quaint street with flowers in Rome.

Best of Rome at a Glance

Staying in Sant Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto
Exploring the Trastavere
Checking out Domus Aurea
Visiting the Borghese Gardens
Getting out of town to explore the Appian Way

Day 1: Ancient Rome

You could easily spend several days just focusing your sightseeing energies on ancient Roman sites. They’re everywhere! But top of the list are the Colosseum and the Forum, the Domus Aurea (if you’re in Rome on a Saturday or Sunday), and the Pantheon.

Colosseum and Forum

Start your day with an early visit to the Colosseum followed by a wander through the Forum. Of the two Roman sites, the Colosseum gets the most crowded, so be sure to see it first. Alternatively, tour the Colosseum and Forum later in the day when the crowds may be less.

Also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, the iconic Colosseum has become the symbol of Rome. Construction of the Colosseum began in AD 72 by order of the Emperor Vespasian and was completed in AD 80. It was the largest colosseum in the world with a capacity of 50,000 spectators.

Seeing it now, you’ll be hard-pressed to believe that it held that many people.

I was a bit underwhelmed the first time I saw the interior of the Colosseum. My imagination couldn’t quite conjure the scenes of wild animals tormenting terrified Christians, which is probably just as well.

That said, put the Colosseum at the top of your Rome sightseeing list. Just make sure to buy your tickets in advance for both the Colosseum and the Forum.

Another option is to book a nighttime tour of the Colosseum that takes you to the Colosseum’s underground corridors, the arena, and the first ring of the seating area. I haven’t taken this tour, but it sounds intriguing and crowd-free (always a selling point for me).

Stone tunnels underneath the Colosseum in Rome. — Visit the Colosseum on a n ighttime tour!

Purchase tickets here for the Colosseum Nighttime tour.

Domus Aurea

The Domus Aurea is in the vicinity of the Forum and Colosseum. We visited the Domus Aurea in 2001, not long after it opened in 1999 when we were able to wander freely around the massive excavated rooms. The site was closed in 2005 and reopened in 2007, with more galleries added in 2015. The number of visitors is now restricted, with everyone required to wear a helmet.

Built by the Emperor Nero in 64 AD, the Domus Aurea had 300 rooms and occupied about 50 hectares–and was used exclusively for parties. That Nero was some kind of party animal.

Visit the Domus Aurea by guided tour and only on Saturdays and Sundays. If you can get tickets, go. The guided tour consists of a twelve-stage itinerary that includes a virtual reality installation in the Sala della Volta Dorata. Visitors are purportedly transported to an ancient, rich, and magical world.

A group of tourists wearing helmets and preparing to tour a vast vaulted corridor in the Domus Aurea in Rome. — Visit the Domus Aurea on a guided tour.

Pantheon

The area around the Pantheon in central Rome is always hopping. Visit later in the day when the crowds are thinning.

The Pantheon is remarkable for its dome–still the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome, which is amazing, considering the Pantheon was built 2,000 years ago. Thanks to continuous use for two millennia, the Pantheon is one of the best-preserved buildings from ancient Rome. Originally a temple, the Pantheon is now a church.

See the Pantheon on your own or, for a few euros more, take a guided tour.

The Pantheon in Rome and the piazza in front of it. — Consider a guided tour of the Pantheon

After touring the Pantheon, treat yourself to a gelato and watch the world go by from one of the cafés bordering the piazza in front of the Pantheon. I still remember fondly the fig gelato I sampled while visiting the area.

Spend the evening getting lost in the maze of streets leading from the Pantheon to the Piazza Navona and then find a place for dinner. Choose small restaurants on side streets that are filled with locals.

The area around the Piazza Navona is my favorite part of Rome.

Day 2: Catholic Rome

Rome bristles with churches, some dating back to Roman times and most containing priceless works of art, particularly from the Renaissance and Baroque eras. You can’t see all the churches in one day, nor should you try!

Focus first on St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum and then go back across the Tiber to visit San Pietro di Vincoli and the Basilica of San Clemente.

St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum

A visit to St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum requires stamina. Line-ups are inevitable even with advance tickets. You can’t avoid the long, sweaty trek through room after room of the Vatican Museum before finally arriving in the Sistine Chapel.

But the trek is worth it. Just make sure you buy your tickets for the Vatican Museum well in advance.

Sistine Chapel

The Sistine Chapel heaves with tourists. There’s no escaping them (and you are one of them!) so just tilt your head back and admire Michelangelo’s ceiling. My favorite memory of the Sistine Chapel is when, on my first visit at the age of 18, I heard a woman behind me say to her companion, “Do y’all think it was done by hand?” I resisted the temptation to turn around and tell her it was paint by numbers.

The Sistine Chapel was restored by Pope Sixtus IV, famous for his patronage of the arts. He also makes an appearance in the TV series Medici, which I write about in a post over on my sister website, Art In Fiction. Pope Julius II is responsible for commissioning Michelangelo to cover the ceiling with his magnificent frescoes between 1508 and 1512.

St. Peter’s Basilica is a must-see because it is humongous. My favorite part is viewing the size of various world cathedrals marked in the nave. Washington’s National Cathedral is marked at 139 meters, which is about half the length of St. Peter’s nave.

The last time I visited St. Peter’s, the organ was at full volume and wow! Transfixing, for sure.

I love the exterior of St. Peter’s. A gorgeous double sweep of Bernini columns embraces two sides of the square.

A section of the Bernini columns at St. Peter's Basilica — A section of the Bernini columns at St. Peter’s Basilica

Castel Sant-Angelo

On your way back over the Tiber to central Rome, you’ll pass by the Castel Sant’Angelo. Also known as the Mausoleum of Hadrian, the site technically belongs with the ancient Rome Day 1 itinerary. However, its location near St. Peter’s and the Vatican makes it a good stop on Day 2.

Originally built to be the mausoleum for the Roman Emperor Hadrian and his family, the structure was later used by the popes as a fortress and castle and is now the Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo.

Castel Sant'Angelo in Rome — Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome

The museum is a worthwhile stop, primarily because of the view of Rome seen from the top. Go at sunset for some great photo ops. The area around Castel Sant’Angelo teems with tourists, so a view like the one below is virtually impossible!

Cross the bridge from the Castel Sant’Angelo and plunge back into medieval Rome. Stay around the Piazza Navona for the rest of the day, enjoying gelatos and people-watching, or continue your Catholic Rome wanderings by visiting two more churches.

Take a bus or a taxi back towards the Colosseum area to find San Pietro in Vincoli.

TIP: To get around Rome, consider taking taxis and busses. Taxi drivers skillfully weave through the dense traffic–better them than me! Prices are reasonable and worth it to save your feet. Busses in Rome are also a good bet. Use your phone to familiarize yourself with the bus routes. I prefer riding the bus to riding the metro (which has limited routes) because then I can watch Rome go by.

San Pietro in Vincoli

Not far from the Colosseum are a few churches worth visiting, particularly San Pietro in Vincoli (Saint Peter in Chains) where Michelangelo’s statue of Moses dominates the side altar.

Whenever I’ve visited this church, it’s been quiet and uncrowded. I love standing in front of the Moses statue and admiring the way Michelangelo sculpted Moses’s hands. Truly remarkable.

Marble statue of Moses sculpted by Michelangelo in the San Pietro in Vincoli church in Rome

Basilica of San Clemente

Located not far from the Colosseum, the Basilica of San Clemente appeals to me because it was built on the site of a house containing a shrine of the Roman god Mithras. An underground passage leads to the excavated foundations of the 2nd-century Roman house. A relief on the altar shows the Persian sun god, Mithras, killing a bull.

The underground area is super dark and creepy, providing great scope for the imagination.

Day 3: Pastoral Rome

Rome is not all churches and ruins. It also has the marvelous Borghese Gardens, the atmospheric Trastevere region, and the achingly pastoral Appian Way, several metro stops from the center of the city.

See the Galleria Borghese and the Borghese Gardens in the morning, zip out to the Appian Way for lunch and a lovely afternoon stroll, then end your day with dinner in the Trastevere neighborhood across the Tiber from central Rome.

Borghese Gardens and the Galleria Borghese

Head to the Borghese Gardens and tour the Galleria Borghese. You must get tickets ahead of time. This stunning gallery reopened recently after being renovated. You’ll see some of the masterpieces of the Baroque age, including works by Caravaggio and the famous sculpture of Apollo and Daphne and The Rape of Proserpina by Bernini.

I first saw Bernini’s sculptures when I visited Rome in 1974. Works of that quality were thin on the ground in the Vancouver suburb where I’d grown up, so I was understandably impressed. Check out the way Pluto’s fingers press into Proserpina’s flesh and then remember that you’re looking at marble.

*The Rape of Proserpina* by Bernini in the Galleria Borghese: Buy tickets in advance

Amazing!

After partaking of the Baroque delights at the Galleria Borghese, spare an hour or so to wander around the gardens of the Villa Borghese. On a solo trip to Rome a few years ago, I stayed in a bed-and-breakfast about a block from the park and enjoyed early-morning strolls alongside Roman joggers.

Appian Way

In the afternoon, depending on the weather and your energy level, consider taking the metro out to the Appian Way (Via Appia Antica).

You’re transported from noisy modern Rome to an Arcadian landscape of plane trees and cypresses lining the original Roman road. Rent a bike or just stroll along the stone roadbed, imagining Roman chariots rumbling past.

Gregg and I spent a magical afternoon there, communing with the ghosts of the Roman rich people whose tombs line the road. The peace and quiet soothed nerves that can get a bit overstimulated by the hustle and traffic of downtown Rome.

The beautifully pastoral and peaceful Appian Way outside Rome

Trastevere

Spend an evening strolling the quiet streets of the Trastevere neighborhood. The working-class area still feels authentic and Roman. Find a small restaurant overlooking one of the piazzas and settle in for dinner.

Trastevere is located on the same side of the Tiber as St. Peter’s Basilica, about a ten-minute bus ride alongside the river.

Cobbled street in the charming Trastevere area of Rome

Here’s a good article about what to do and see in Trastevere.

Tours in Rome

Here are some tours offered by Tiqets.com:

And here are some tours offered through GetYourGuide:

Fancy a walking tour? The tours offered through GuruWalks are a good bet. Here are their tours in Rome.

Where to Stay in Rome

If you’re staying in Rome for more than two or three nights, consider renting an apartment. I’ve had good luck with VRBO and booking.com. When you stay in an apartment, you live like a temporary local, buying food from the local markets, and getting to know neighborhood restaurants and cafés.

Here are some good options:

The Sant’Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome, very close to a lot of Roman ruins in addition to the Capitoline Museum and the Piazza Venezia, site of the Victor Emmanuel monument. The apartment was quite spacious and the location can’t be beat for exploring ancient Rome.

I also recommend Viam 6B located between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Popolo–a very upscale and chi-chi part of Rome with lots of designer stores. The apartment was very modern and comfortable and included a beautiful outdoor terrace.

For more accommodation suggestions in Rome, see Recommended Plays to Stay in Italy That Will Make Great Memories.

Conclusion

Here are some more posts to give you a taste of Italy:

One Week in Northern Italy: Recommendations for an Artsy Trip

Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:33 pm

This one-week itinerary for touring Nothern Italy provides a taste of stately Turin and sophisticated Milan, along with the deliciously jagged Dolomite mountains and the Italian Lakes.

Although my itinerary covers the high points, consider spending more time at the lakes (Maggiore, Orta, Como, Iseo, and Garda) or hiking in the Dolomites. The views are stunning and the livin’ easy.

Pinterest graphic with the text One Week Itinerary Northern Italy over a pciture of the castle at Sirmione on Lake Garda above the text and a picture of Milan Cathedral below the text.

Why Tour Northern Italy?

This area of Italy is sometimes skipped in favor of Tuscany, Umbria, Rome and beyond to the Campania and Sicily. But I loved touring Northern Italy because it’s like a different country compared to other regions of Italy.

It’s still Italian with great food and plenty of amazing cultural sights, but it also feels much more Germanic as a result of its proximity to Austria, Switzerland, and Germany. I found the people more reserved than their southern neighbors, albeit still helpful and friendly.

Interesting Cities

The two main cities in Northern Italy are Turin and Milan. There are also some wonderful places to explore in the Veneto, such as Padua and Vicenza, but in this post, I’m focusing only on the area from Turin in the far west near the border with France to Bolzano near the border with Austria in the north.

Turin and Milan are both worth a few days of your time.

View of Milan Cathedral at sunset; the cathedral is a must-see on a one-week itinerary in northern Italy — Milan Cathedral–a must-see in Northern Italy

Stunning Landscapes

The other reason for spending time in Northern Italy is to explore the spectacular landscapes of the Italian Lakes and the Dolomites.

Getting Around Northern Italy

Taking Trains and Tours

You can travel easily by train between Turin and Milan and then take day tours to explore the Italian lakes and some nearby cities. See the section on the Italian Lakes below for suggested day tours of the lakes that depart from Milan.

Driving in Northern Italy

If you’re driving, you’ll be able to explore more of the Dolomites and take side trips to cities like Verona. We found driving in Northern Italy to be quite easy, although the traffic around Milan can be horrendous. There are a lot of roads and a lot of people.

Turn on your GPS and focus. More than a few times, we’ve missed turn-offs and ended up navigating spaghetti-like mazes of roads before finding our way to where we needed to be.

Drivers can travel right up into the Dolomites along twisty mountain roads and check out charming towns like Bolzano. On the other hand, you don’t need a car in Turin and Milan. We book hotels on the outskirts that have free parking and then take a tram or bus into the city center.

Overview of A One-Week Itinerary in Northern Italy

Here’s my suggested one-week itinerary in Northern Italy:

One night in Turin
Four nights in Milan with a day trip to the Lakes OR two nights in Milan and two nights at Lake Como
Two nights in the Dolomites

Highlights of your one-week itinerary include visiting the Museo Egizio in Milan, taking a boat trip on one of the lakes, touring Milan Catheral, and hiking in the Dolomites.

Turin

Located in the northwest corner of Northern Italy near the French border, Turin (Torino in Italian) is an unpretentious city with a lovely central core and the not-to-be-missed Museo Egizio–one of the largest museums in the world solely dedicated to ancient Egypt.

I recommend you stay at least one night in Turin and spend a half-day exploring the Museo Egizio.

Museo Egizio

The Museo Egizio is enormous and can be very crowded.

Buy your tickets in advance and go early. The three floors are packed with beautifully curated exhibits. If you’re an ancient Egypt fan, you’ll be in heaven. And even if ancient Egypt isn’t your thing, you’ll find plenty to entertain you.

Here are some options for touring the Museo Egizio and Turin:

Staying in Turin

We were driving when we visited Turin, so we chose a hotel that was a little ways from the centro. The restful Parco Hotel Sassi fit the bill. We parked the car for free, relaxed for a while on our terrace overlooking beautiful grounds, and then took a short tram ride into Turin. Highly recommended.

Torino's Piazza Castello with tramway — Torino’s Piazza Castello with tramway

After our afternoon in Turin touring the Museo Egizio and walking around the large central piazza, we took the tram back to the hotel and walked to a local restaurant for dinner. The place was empty when we arrived and packed with locals by the time we left.

That meal ranks as one of our most memorable, both for the food and for the friendliness of the servers. We were the only tourists in the place.

TIP: Seek out restaurants recommended by your hotel and that are frequented by locals. If you go when the restaurant opens (usually around 7 pm), you’ll have the place to yourself. If you prefer conviviality and noise with your pasta and pizza, wait a few hours to join the crowds of Italian families that start pouring in around 9 pm.

The area around Turin is called the Piedmont and was the location of many of the sports venues used for the 2006 Olympics. If you have extra time, spend a day or two driving around this scenic area.

Milan

On both of my visits to Milan, I was struck by how stately and calm this Northern Italian city is, particularly compared to Rome and Naples.

I remember riding in a taxi on my first trip to Milan. We’d just taken the train from wonderful, frenetic Naples where a taxi ride was an adventure and stop signs merely suggestions, and spent several days in Rome. In Milan, the driver swung us into lanes of slow-moving, very well-behaved traffic and steered us sedately down wide avenues. I felt like I was on a main road through a particularly safe and dull Canadian suburb.

I commented to the driver that Milan seemed very different from Rome. She harrumphed and said, “This is Milan. We are not like Roma.” I got the impression she considered that a selling point.

I’m always fascinated by regional differences within a country. Certainly the differences betwen the north and the south in Italy are particularly noticeable!

Milan is Different

The taxi driver was right. Milan is not like its more rambunctious southern neighbors. The streets are wide and the city quite spread out. Traffic is dense. However, people actually drive in the correct lanes and avoid piling into intersections and honking.

Although Rome is notorious for its pickpockets, the only time we encountered petty theft in Italy was in Milan. At our hotel near the train station, Gregg witnessed the theft of the hotel manager’s wallet from the front desk when the manager’s back was turned. The manager gave chase but to no avail. So, the moral of that story is to never leave your valuables unattended.

On the other hand, I once left my purse containing our passports and my wallet on the counter at a very seedy hotel in Nice, only for it to still be there when, in a panic, I returned thirty minutes later.

You never know, but always err on the side of caution.

Top Sights in Milan

On a one-week itinerary touring Northern Italy, Milan is worth at least two days of your time or one very full day. I suggest you spend four days in Milan and spend one or two of them taking day tours to the Italian Lakes or spending two nights in Milan and driving to the lakes for another two nights.

If you enjoy shopping, set aside an afternoon to check out what’s on offer in Italy’s most sophisticated fashion city.

Here are the big draws in Milan.

The Duomo of Milan

The Milan Duomo is one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in Christendom, with a roof bristling with a forest of spires topped with sculptures. Make sure to buy your tickets in advance to avoid the long lines (see tour suggestions below).

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

After visiting the Duomo, head across the piazza to enter the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Billed as an aesthetically pleasing shopping arcade, the Galleria is worth escaping into from the sun or rain to browse designer shops, such as Louis Vuitton and Prada if your budget stretches that far, or to enjoy a coffee and pastry if it doesn’t.

The 19th-century glass ceiling is magnificent.

La Scala Opera House

La Scala is located at the far end of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. You’ll reach it after walking through the galleria from the Duomo. As one of the world’s most famous opera houses, it’s a must-see for music fans. Book a guided tour of the auditorium and the attached museum.

Sforza Castle

Wander through the hip Brera district, with its funky boutiques and trendy bars, to get to the imposing Sforza Castle (Castello Sforzesco).

If you’re a fan of the Medici series on Netflix (I’ve written a post about it over on Art In Fiction), you’ll remember Galeazzo Maria Sforza, one of the Sforza family’s most famous dukes. He was renowned both for his cruelty and for his patronage of music. Spoiler alert: he meets a bad end in Season 2 and in real life.

The Castello Sforzesco contains several worthwhile museums as well as Michelangelo’s unfinished Pieta. Also view the sala delle asse, a room with walls and ceiling painted by da Vinci and depicting intertwining trunks with leaves and fruit.

Purchase your tickets to Castello Sforzesco in advance and go early to beat the crowds (as usual!). Here’s a link to the Castello Sforzesco website.

Da Vinci’s Last Supper

Leonardo da Vinci, of Mona Lisa fame (among many other things), is also renowned as the painter of The Last Supper. Located in the refectory at the monastery of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the iconic fresco tops the list of must-see places in Milan.

But make sure to pre-book! I went there without a reservation in the vain hope I’d get in, although I should have known better. Alas, ’twas not to be. The person at the ticket counter actually laughed at me when I said I wanted a ticket for that day.

Don’t make the same mistake. The Last Supper is a major tourist attraction in Milan and rightly so. If you want to see it, buy your tickets online as far in advance as possible.

THe Last Supper Fresco by Leonardo da Vinci — *The Last Supper* – Paris Orlando [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

As soon as you know your travel dates in Milan, buy your tickets. Don’t wait until you get to Milan. Trust me on this!

Once you do get inside to view da Vinci’s masterpiece, you can stay for only 15 minutes.

Sightseeing Options in Milan

Here’s a selection of artsy sightseeing options for touring Milan. Other sites include Leonardo – The World of Leonardo and the art gallery: Pinacoteca di Brera

The Italian Lakes

This region is simply gorgeous. In fact, you’ll quickly run out of adjectives to describe the unique combo of mountain vistas and shining lake views. No wonder so many ultra-rich people have villas in the region.

My one-week itinerary of Northern Italy covers the high points of the area, but if you have more time, spend it at the lakes Maggiore, Orta, Como, Iseo, and Garda; each has its own character and charm. Your best bet for a quick visit is to take a small group tour that includes two or three of the lakes, or a boat trip.

Although a round trip of the lakes covers only about 100 miles, you’re best to find one or two spots to stay in and enjoy rather than try to see everything.

Highlights include:

Bellagio on Lake Como from where you can take ferries and water taxies to other towns on the lake. You could spend all day cruising up and down the lake, enjoying the breezes and the stunning views, and looking out for celebrities sunning themselves on the terraces of their lakeside villas.
Lake Garda is the largest of the lakes, with the northern half surrounded by mountains and the southern half flat. North is better!
Sirmione on Lake Garda is known for its thermal baths and the Rocca Scaligera, a medieval castle that overlooks the lake.
Lake Maggiore and the Barromean Islands with their ornate gardens.

Rocca Scaligera in Sirmione on Lake Garda

Bellagio on beautiful Lake Como in the Italian Lakes, a highlight of a one-week itinerary touring Northern Italy — Bellagio on beautiful Lake Como in the Italian Lakes

Tours of the Italian Lakes

The Dolomites

The super-jagged, needle-like peaks of the Dolomites mountain range (the Dolomiti) have long fascinated me. They don’t look real, and yet they are. We’ve driven a few times in the area, and I’d like to return to do some hiking.

Allocate at least two days to this region during a one-week tour around Northern Italy.

Bolzano

Bolzano is a pleasant town considered the gateway to the Dolomites. We were impressed by the distinctive architecture of many of the buildings, some painted in pastel colors.

A big draw in Bolzano is the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology. Visit “Ötzi”, a well-preserved mummy of a man from about 3300 BC and the world’s oldest natural human mummy.

For more information, check the museum website.

Alpine Options

If you’re driving, head a little farther into the mountains and base yourself in Castelrotto. From there, go hiking in the Alpe di Siusi, a large Alpine meadow. Cable cars whisk you from stations near your hotel up to the meadow.

View of peaks in the Dolomites from Alpe di Siusi

Another gorgeous location in both winter and summer is Alta Badia. Check the town’s excellent website for more information.

Carrying on South Into More Italy

If you’re driving into Italy through Bolzano, your next stop will probably be Venice. Read my recommendations for Venice and Ravenna.

If you’re driving into Italy through Turin, you’ll likely head south into Tuscany and Umbria, perhaps stopping on the way to check out the Cinque Terre.

You can also catch the high-speed train from Milan south to Florence and Rome.

Conclusion

Have you toured Northern Italy? What did you think? Do you have suggestions for must-sees (especially artsy-oriented must-sees) to share with other travelers? Add them to the comments below.

Here are more posts to help you plan your Italian travels:

Best Itineraries for Exploring Tuscany, Umbria and La Dolce Vita

Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler 8 Comments

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:33 pm

If you love incredible art, gorgeous landscapes, fabulous food, and world-class wines, then consider dedicating at least a week (preferably two) to exploring Tuscany and Umbria.

Along the way, you’re sure to experience la dolce vita–the sweet life.

I’ve put together some suggested itineraries for exploring this gorgeous region of Italy. No matter how many times I return, I always find new things to see.

And I never get tired to returning to some of my old favorites like Siena and San Gimignano.

Itineraries at a Glance

Tuscany

3 nights in Florence – stay at S erristori Palace Re sidence
3 nights in Siena – stay at Hotel Athena
1 night in San Gimignano – stay at Hotel Pescille

Umbria

2 nights in Perugia – stay at Hotel Fortuna
2 nights in Assisi – stay at Tenuta San Masseo
2 nights in Orvieto – stay at Agriturismo Podere Pescara

Map of Tuscany & Umbria

The map of Tuscany and Umbria includes all the destinations mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

Suggested Itineraries for Exploring Tuscany & Umbria

Explore both Tuscany and Umbria by car or home-base in one or more of the towns and take day tours to others.

For Tuscany, one strategy is to spend a three nights in Florence (see my suggestions below for enjoying this most Renaissance of cities), three nights in Siena, and one or two nights in San Gimignano. During those five days in the Tuscan countryside, be sure to take a wine tour.

For Umbria, divide your time between the three main towns: Orvieto, Perugia, and Assisi, and reserve time for enjoying the rugged countryside.

If you want to explore Tuscany and Umbria by car, pick up your rental car at the Florence airport. Avoid picking your car up at the train station or some other area in central Florence. You don’t need the headache of navigating your way out of the city.

After picking up your car at the Florence airport, you’ll be out on the highway within minutes.

TIP: Bear in mind that driving in Tuscany and Umbria can be slow going. If you home-base in a specific area or town, reserve a few days for just staying put and enjoying la dolce vita. Spending every day driving the twisting, narrow roads can get tiring.

After a week (or maybe two!) in Tuscany, spend another week in Umbria if time allows. Perugia or Assisi are good choices.

Here are my recommendations for top towns to visit in Tuscany and Umbria.

Tuscany

If you have only a week to see Tuscany, I suggest you make time for Florence and two of the other towns, such as Siena (my favorite) and San Gimignano, with perhaps a day trip to one other town, such as Montalcino or Volterra.

For accommodation recommendations, see Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Florence

You kinda have to visit Florence (#1 on the map) because it’s, well, Florence. A sizable percentage of Italy’s finest art is found in Florence, and you owe it to yourself to see it. Unfortunately, half of the known universe descends on Florence every day (or at least that’s how it feels). I remember wondering if the medieval Ponte Vecchio was strong enough to bear the throngs streaming across it.

TIP: Combat the crowds by visiting the hot spots, such as the Uffizi, the Duomo, and the Piazza della Signoria in front of the Palazzo Vecchio, early in the morning or late in the day.

During the middle of the day, opt for lesser known but still amazing sites, such as the Masaccio frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel across the river from central Florence and the Museo Nazionale di San Marco which houses the frescoes by Fra Angelico.

Here are sightseeing suggestions for Florence. Make sure you purchase tickets ahead of time for the Uffizi and the Accademia.

Siena

Spend at least two nights, preferably more, in Siena (#2). Siena is my favorite city in Tuscany, with enough great artsy sightseeing to keep you as busy as you want to be. You’ll also have time to just hang out in Siena–walk the narrow cobbled streets, relax in the Campo, and eat a great meal or two complemented by good Tuscan wine.

TIP: When you arrive in Siena, head first to the Campo. If the weather is dry, plop down on the 700-year-old bricks and soak up the history.

Piazza del Campo in Siena, Italy at twilight

The Campo can get very crowded during the day. Arrive later in the afternoon, enjoy a glass of wine at one of the cafés bordering the piazza, and watch the crowds disperse as the sun turns the Torre Mangia golden. Your glass of wine will be overpriced, but who cares? You have a ringside seat to one of Europe’s most beautiful public piazzas.

Wine Tour

Allocate one of your days in Tuscany to taking a wine tour of the region. Choose a tour that includes Montalcino, home of the scrumptious (and potent) Brunello di Montalcino. The tour I took included a marvelous three-course lunch and visits to three wineries that also included tastings. Let your guide do the driving! Here’s a good option from GetYourGuide:

https://www.getyourguide.com/siena-l435/montalcino-tour-by-minivan-with-brunello-wine-tasting-t8411/?ranking_uuid=8850d226-a5a3-475e-8a24-10260de82bc1

Staying in Siena

You’ll find good accommodation options in Siena in the post Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Tours in Siena

Here are more sightseeing options in Siena.

San Gimignano

Yes, it’s crowded during the day with tour busses, but once they leave, you’ll have beautiful San Gimignano (#3), medieval city of towers, all to yourself. Enjoy top-class restaurants and stroll flood-lit streets that, apart from the souvenir shops, have barely changed in 700 years.

For an in-depth look at San Gimignano and why it deserves top billing in your itinerary, read Exploring San Gimignano in Tuscany.

And if you’re looking for something to read while staying in San Gimignano, consider downloading The Towers of Tuscany, my award-winning novel about a female artist in San Gimignano and Siena in the 1300s.

Stay overnight in San Gimignano so you can enjoy this magical city without the crowds. Good options are the Hotel Pescille and the Cappuccina Country Resort, both outside the city so you’ll need a car.

Volterra

Fans of the Medici series on Netflix will recognize the town hall in Volterra (#4) as the stand-in for Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio. Volterra–known as the City of Alabaster–is considerably less crowded than its neighbor, San Gimignano, and has just as much (maybe more) to offer the artsy traveler.

Noteworthy sites include the medieval frescoes in the Palazzo dei Priori, the remains of the Etruscan Acropolis (the Etruscans were big in these parts), the wonderful Guarnacci Etruscan Museum (more Etruscans), and the Roman Theater complex that includes the ruins of 3rd-century baths.

Read more about the Etruscans in the Artsy Sightseeing section of the Italy Destinations page.

Lucca

The walled city of Lucca (#5) is a charming place to spend half a day. Walk along the top of the walls, visit Lucca Cathedral (Lucca is known as the city of a hundred churches so there’s more to choose from), and breathe in the medieval atmosphere.

When we visited, a group of young people dressed in medieval garb were presenting a flag-waving demonstration to the accompaniment of some serious medieval drumming. We were entranced.

Pisa

I’ve visited Pisa (#6) once, and that’s enough for me, although perhaps I’m being unfair. The area around the famous Leaning Tower teems with tacky souvenir stalls. I like a good tacky souvenir as much as the next gal, but even I reached my limit in Pisa.

The cathedral is worth visiting, and you must get someone to take the obligatory shot of you holding up the tower. Drop in to Pisa if you’re driving and you have time; otherwise, don’t sweat it. Tuscany has many more treasures to offer.

Other Towns in Tuscany

Tuscany is one of the largest provinces in Italy, with many worthwhile hill towns to visit, including Montalcino, Montepulciano, Monteriggioni, Cortono, and Pienza.

These are all best visited by car. I’ve also traveled in Tuscany by bus, which works fine if you really don’t like driving.

Driving in Tuscany is relatively easy but not speedy. The roads are narrow and twisting. Slow down, relax, and enjoy the journey. Oh – and make way for locals who don’t ‘do’ slow.

TIP: Never (and I mean never!) attempt to drive into a Tuscan hill town. First, you risk getting a stiff fine (being a tourist is no excuse), second, you risk ripping one or both of your side mirrors off your rental car, and third, you risk never again speaking to your partner.

Find the parking lot outside the city walls and walk into the town. Yes, you’ll likely be walking uphill (that’s why they are called hill towns), but some towns such as San Gimignano thoughtfully provide an elevator to take you from the car park to the town. Others don’t, but if you’re going to travel in Tuscany, you need to be up for some good, stiff walking.

Umbria

Umbria (#7) has much to offer the artsy traveler. The landscape is just as stunning as the landscape in Tuscany, with even more rugged mountains, and hill towns as interesting and historic. Highlights include Perugia, Assisi, Gubbio, and Orvieto.

Perugia

Perugia (#8) is the capital of Umbria and one of its largest towns. We enjoyed strolling around the central piazza and ducking into the cathedral. Perugia is laid-back and not overly crowded.

The highlight of our visit to Perugia was discovering the Civic Museum at the Palazzo della Penna. There, we viewed the work of Gerardo Dottori, the leader of the Umbrian Futurists and one of the founders of Aeropainting.

The Palazzo della Penna is one of Perugia’s little-known museums that’s worth seeking out. It’s constructed on the ruins of a Roman amphitheater and an ancient Roman road.

One of the highlights of artsy traveling is looking for these lesser-known but amazing small museums (of which Italy has many). They are almost always deserted, and most contain marvelous collections.

Assisi

One of the hippest things I saw during our visit to Assisi (#9) wasn’t even on the tourist radar. I spied a small sign in a side street advertising a special exhibition of medieval costumes. As an historical novelist with a yen for all things medieval and Italian, I’d found my bliss. Here’s a few of the costumes included in the exhibition.

When traveling to small towns in Tuscany and Umbria, check at the tourist office for local exhibitions and events and keep an eye out for posters. You never know what gems you’ll find.

Also taking place while we were in Assisi was an annual festival where all the locals dressed in medieval garb and paraded through the streets. Many other events were included in the festival, but we had neglected to get tickets.

More reason to do your research before you go!

The big draw to Assisi is, of course, the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi, with its marvelous frescoes by Giotto. Start your visit to Assisi here, then walk up into the medieval town, and from there continue up to the fortezza for some stunning views.

Gubbio

What a delightful town! Nicknamed the City of Fools, Gubbio (#10) is unpretentious and relaxed. We spent a pleasant day wandering its cobbled streets, enjoying lunch in the panoramic Piazza Grande, and visiting the municipal museum.

One of the fun attractions of Gubbio is the Big Barrel, otherwise known as La Botte dei Canonici. The barrel is reputed to be the world’s largest and oldest. It’s worth a photo op, and there’s a gift shop. Entrance is free, so if you pass it during your wanderings around Gubbio, pop in and find out more.

We also checked out the Roman Theatre outside the walls of Gubbio near where we parked.

Remember–always park outside the city walls!

Orvieto

The stunning cathedral is the draw to Orvieto (#11), a beautiful Umbrian town perched atop a volcanic plug and worth an overnight stay. Unlike its better known Tuscan counterparts, Orvieto is relaxed and approachable. Park in the large lot at the bottom of the hill and take the elevator or escalator to the medieval upper town.

The facade of the cathedral is unusual in its inclusion of golden mosaics, sculpture, and stained glass.

The stunning facade of the Cathedral at Orvieto

For more information about what to see in Orvieto, check out this article by Rick Steves, my fave travel writer.

Where to Stay

For detailed information about where to stay in Tuscany and Umbria, have a look at my post on Recommended Places to Stay in Italy That Will Make Great Memories.

Enter your destination below to see a map of accommodation options in the region.

Tours in Tuscany and Umbria

Here are some GetYourGuide tour options in Tuscany.

And here are some tour options in Umbria.

Conclusion

Have you visited Tuscany and Umbria? Share your recommendations in the comments below. And to further excite your about this amazing region, here are some more posts about what to see as an Artsy Traveler in Italy:

Traveling to Vienna – The Waltz Begins

Austria, Destinations Artsy Traveler 2 Comments

Last updated on December 7th, 2024 at 02:20 am

Are you traveling to Vienna? I wrote this post during my solo trip to Vienna while researching A Woman of Note, my novel about a woman composer in 1830s Vienna. This post chronicles Day 1.

Getting To Vienna

Flying Austrian Airlines from Vancouver to Vienna

Viennese waltzes (what else?) play over the sound system as I board my Austrian Airlines flight from Vancouver to Vienna. Cheerful red pillows and black blankets edged in red and white gingham sit demurely on each seat. The attendants wear red literally from top to toe—red neckerchiefs, red dresses, red stockings, red shoes, red fingernails.

Most of the passengers speak German and look like extras from The Sound of Music. OK – cultural stereotyping, but seriously, I have the distinct feeling they are minutes away from breaking into the chorus of Edelweiss. I may join them, Edelweiss being one of my favorites.

A montage of Austrian fun plays on everyone’s screens. Skiers whizzing down snow-covered mountains under achingly blue skies morph into hundreds of dancing couples. Girls in white dresses (where have I heard that line before?) swoon in the arms of men in black tuxes who sturdily waltz them around an enormous Baroque ballroom.

Did you know that the waltz became popular during the 1830s, the time in which I set A Woman of Note? The Viennese bourgeois were hungry for innocent pleasures in a Vienna that was, essentially, a police state. In 1830, you kept your mouth shut, and you waltzed. I’m hopeful that things have changed a bit.

People waltzing in Vienna. When you are traveling to Vienna, you can enjoy wonderful music and a rich history. — You can get tickets to the Johann Strauss Ball if you like waltzing.

On the screens, blonde, bikini-clad girls play beach volleyball (really? in Austria?), the Danube sparkles in the sun, and more sunny-looking blonde people cavort in front of big white buildings, intercut with generic Austrian flora and fauna.

After two movies, a few TV shows, surprisingly good food, and a short nap, I begin my travels in Vienna.

Arriving in Vienna

Vienna’s sleek airport is small and efficiently laid out. I sail through passport control and board the City Airport Train (CAT) for the sixteen-minute trip into Vienna. If you’re traveling to Vienna, consider the CAT for getting into the city. It’s much faster and cheaper than a taxi.

The train rides smoothly. I can type on my laptop as easily as if I were working at my desk at home. We pass the usual hideous sprawl that infects the outskirts of every European city–huge cylinders, rust-streaked girders, junk yards, railway tracks, electrical pylons.

I hope to not see these suburbs again until I return to the airport. On my first trip to Vienna with the family, I booked a hotel on the outskirts, and things did not go well. You can read about that misadventure in Robbie Bubble, an extract from Pastel & Pen: Travels in Europe that I wrote and Gregg illustrated.

I leave the CAT at the central station and hop onto the U train – Vienna’s efficient subway system. I bought my combo CAT ticket and three-day transit pass online before leaving home, so I won’t need to buy transit tickets for the next three days.

All I have is a printout with the dates that the pass is valid, which doesn’t feel very official. However, the guy on the CAT train scans it with his phone, and all is well.

I emerge from the U station to find a wide and busy street surrounded by large, white buildings that I will see a lot of during the next forty minutes. Armed only with a printout of a Google map and a phone with a dead battery, I turn left. It’s as good a direction as any. After walking for 15 minutes, I turn back and walk the other way for another 15 minutes, only to conclude that no, I was right the first time.

Sighing, I spin my brand new, four-wheeled suitcase (it’s a keeper) full circle and trudge back the way I came, barely registering in my post-flight fog that I’m passing the imposing Kunsthistorisches museum squatting in 19^th-century splendor across from the equally imposing Natural History museum.

Finally, I ask a passing jogger for directions. She speaks English (score!) and tells me that my apartment is just across the street. Phew. I set off with renewed resolve and minutes later meet my HomeAway host.

Tip: When you travel, make sure your phone is always charged so you can use it to navigate. If you still get lost, grab a taxi. Spending the extra money is well worth it to avoid sore feet before you’ve even had a chance to enjoy yourself.

Settling into a Vienna Apartment

If you travel to Vienna and stay in a HomeAway place, you can pretend to be an honorary Viennese and live sort of like the locals do. My host leads me through several thick doors and up old, dark stairs, gives me a lesson in the complicated use of three different keys, then finally ushers me into an apartment that looks like, well, an apartment.

Instead of a tiny hotel room with mini bar and wrapped soaps, I have a kitchen, bathroom, living room, and bedroom that look like the kind of place I might actually want to live in. In other words, it’s pretty cool.

I’ve chosen this HomeAway home-away-from-home for my Vienna trip because it’s a 15-minute walk from the old town, the price is outstanding (about $113USD/night), and it has a piano.

I know! A piano! When does that happen? Minutes after arriving and saying goodbye to my host, I sit down to play.

Romantic swooning ensues, despite clunky action and doubtful tuning. I play the Schubert Impromptu mentioned in A Woman of Note and get a bit of a buzz imagining Schubert himself playing the piece only a few blocks and about 185 years away.

I am in Vienna, playing Schubert! Yes!

Exploring Vienna

The apartment overlooks a courtyard containing a little hole-in-the-wall café called the Kandinsky Café. I get a coffee and a bun from the friendly proprietor who knows all about Vancouver.

Ah! Mountains, very beautiful, the Olympics.

An injection of caffeine, a bout of Schubert, and an hour’s rest shake off the worst of the jet lag. I set off for the Wien Museum in the Karlsplatz—two subway stops away.

First Lunch in Vienna

My first requirement is lunch. I’d planned to eat at the museum café, but it’s closed—the café, not the museum. I hike another half mile back across the Ring Road.

Men smoking hookahs fill the first café, so I make a graceful exit and walk next door to join a jolly-looking crowd sitting at tables lining the street. Here’s a transcription of my notes:

I eat my first meal in Vienna outdoors. The choices are mostly hearty, but I resist the lure of wiener schnitzel and opt for a salad and beer. My first taste of Austrian blonde beer – oh yeah. It cuts the dust of the 10,000 mile trip. The salad arrives—it looks good with lots of chicken and avocado pieces. The chicken is flavorful and tender, but the salad dressing has soaked the greens to sogginess. I am defeated with still half a bowl left to eat. At least I’ve lost that awful achy, empty, lightheaded feeling that comes from almost no sleep and widely spaced meals.

After lunch, I finish my beer and again take up my pen to wax lyrical.

The first few hours of a European trip are a strange mix of sensory stimulation. The new noises and smells, the incessant traffic, and voices talking in German accentuate my aloneness. I don’t mind – I love the anonymity of solitary travel. I am here in Vienna to do a job. My hope is that something will jump out at me, will give me the key to A Woman of Note. So far, wide boulevards choked with 21^st-century traffic, prosperous people, and rides on the metro have yielded nothing. The Vienna of today is very far from the Vienna of 1827. I need to get into the old town where, hopefully, something will resonate.

Sidenote: My trip to Vienna did indeed inspire me to finish A Woman of Note, thereby proving, if I needed proof, the wisdom of traveling to the locations where I set my novels.

I pay for lunch and set off for the Wien Museum to view old maps and examples of furniture and paintings from the era of A Woman of Note.

After ten minutes of fast walking, I am again lost. I’m quickly discovering that navigating Vienna is not a waltz in the park. The streets angle all over the place, and a few steps along a street at the wrong angle take me many long blocks from where I thought I was just a few minutes earlier.

Pedestrian street in Vienna showing old buildings and lots of visitors. When traveling to Vienna, stay in the old town. — Vienna, Austria, 25th August 2016 – Stephansplatz plaza with old gothic buildings and tourists

Finally, after many long trudges and increasingly hot feet, I emerge into the square containing the museum.

Total fluke.

Wien Museum

The Wien Museum is not as exciting as I’d hoped, but I do enjoy a few scale models of how Vienna looked back in the day. The museum focuses on the “new Vienna” – the post-1850s version following the demolition of the medieval outer wall and the building of the famous Ringstrasse.

In 1827, when A Woman of Note opens, a wall still enclosed Vienna. A population of 290,000 people sounds like a lot, but I was surprised to discover that during the same period, Paris had 860,000 inhabitants and London 1,340,000. Vienna was not a big city, which works well with my plot since a central motivator of at least one character is to go to Paris.

After the museum, I head back over the Ringstrasse into the old town. By this time, I’m starting to get seriously tired! But as a seasoned traveler, I persevere – walking, walking, walking.

Tip: In Vienna, avoid the Ringstrasse (Ring Road) area with its big roads and heavy traffic and spend more time walking in the old town. It’s magical.

Strolling in the Old Town of Vienna

The old town teems with tourists and locals strolling along its many pedestrian streets. I walk to the Stephansplatz where the massive St. Stephen’s cathedral looms whitely. During my trip in 2000, the cathedral was black with soot, so I guess it’s had a bath.

St. Stephen's Cathedral is a landmark you can't miss when you travel to Vienna. — St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna

I find a music store (as in, sheet music). The obliging attendant unearths books of piano music by Clara Schumann, Fanny Mendelssohn, and Maria Theresia von Paradis, a contemporary of Mozart. I discuss both Clara and Fanny in my post Women in the Performing Arts in 19th-century Europe on my Art In Fiction website.

Living Local in Vienna

Buying Groceries

At a grocery store near my apartment, I load up on yogurt, crackers, cheese, and a nice bottle of Austrian rosé. I love European grocery stores. They are inevitably tiny because they’re usually shoehorned into an old building. In the mornings, older people with string bags crowd the aisles, and in the late afternoons, smartly dressed office workers stock up for their evening meals.

I enjoy the challenge of deciphering German labels and searching out things like crackers, which are hard to find in European stores and never the same as the crackers at home. I’m not sure why. The cheese cooler has no Canadian cheddar (funny that!) but instead brims with mild-looking white cheeses.

And the yogurt! The individual yogurts taste spectacular, with flavors like coconut, mango, and coffee. I have a sneaking suspicion they taste so good because they are full-fat. Fortunately, the ingredients are listed in German, so I can’t check.

I arrive back at the apartment and post on Facebook about my burning stump feet while rolling them over a tub of frozen yogurt. One needs to improvise while on vacation.

After a wee sleep and a nice interlude at the piano, I saunter into the balmy night air in search of dinner. I’m looking, of course, for a typical Austrian restaurant.

First Dinner in Vienna

Two of the restaurants I pass are empty (not a good sign), and two others serve Asian food which I can get at home.

The restaurant I finally choose is comfortably full and noisy and Italian, with wiener schnitzel nowhere to be found. Oh well. On many a European sojourn, from Stockholm to Milan, I’ve almost always eaten good meals at Italian restaurants.

I order my favorite, gnocchi in gorgonzola – another indulgence best kept to once every few years. Accompanied by an Austrian white wine, the gnocchi comfortably fills me up.

I also have a ringside seat to drama among the waitstaff. One of the waiters—the one who does not look Italian and I don’t think is—takes the wrong order to the table next to mine. Two other waiters, who both look very Italian and are probably related, chastise the poor fellow roundly and volubly.

For the rest of my meal, the poor guy is relegated to washing and drying wine glasses at the bar. The look of resentment on his face transcends language. Every so often one of the other waiters wanders by and says something to him, which only serves to deepen his scowl. The whole scenario looks like a good start for a Viennese murder mystery. Maybe I should consider switching genres.

By the time I make it back to the apartment via two heavy doors, a keyed elevator, and a staircase that looks like it dates from the 18^th century, I’m too tired to do anything but pass out.

But sleep comes surprisingly slowly, thanks to a noisy group of young people in the courtyard five floors below. Their conversation sounds like they’re in my bedroom. If only I understood German, I could be well entertained. As it is, I just want to know how to yell “shut up” in German. Fortunately, another tenant does, and finally the kids move on.

And so Day 1 of waltzing through Vienna ends.

Read my artsy sightseeing suggestions for Visiting Austria: My Best Tips for Enjoying an Artsy Trip.